T E X T U R E D W H I T E
GEMMA MCMULAN
00013753 CAPSUAL COLLECTION 1+2 E19CA+E19CB
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION LINE UP OUTFIT ONE OUTFIT TWO OUTFIT THREE FINAL GARMENTS COSTING
I n t r o d u c t i o n whitie texture
my collections was based on a spring/summer trend called subliminal nature which focuses on very fluid natural forms i have kept this trend very focal as i developed my ideas . i looked into natural occurring textures and shapes like the crisp dry effect in desert soil, the shine from Stillwater and the natural flowing shape of organic flowers and trees, from these inspirations i came up with 7 Garments. The fabric i picked are a mix of sheer whites and mattes all of them have a form of handmade fabric manipulation incorporated in them from quilting, embellishing and smocking. A lot of time was spent manipulating the fabrics but i feel the end result achieved was better than i could have hoped. As for shape i wanted my garments to be very blocky and oversized but then mixed with some very fluid or shaped pieces all of which related back to my chosen trend.
line up This is my final line up it has been developed through the design and manufacture processes, originally there was both a pleated skirt and top in my collection but during the twalling process it was decided that the garment were too expensive to manufacture and could be subsidised for another garment more fitted to my theme and less costly.
Outfit one
outfit one : top During the pattern proccess i used a basic blouse block this was used because i t had an already boxy appearince so was able to go over a the models head without the use of a zip or opening . from this basic block i then shortened the length to make it a crop top. for the back i created a seam up the middle i learned during the twalling proccess that the use of this seam made the triangle shape alot more exact. after deciding to bind all the raw edges it was alot more practical to have this seam. to give the top a slight shape darts were added to the back at the shoulders and the heme. i kept the neckline of the garment very high as i wanted the smocking to cover the entire front. To keep the neckling in place i have made a collar with the binding that fasten at the back of the neck with buttons. because of the smocking on the front of the top i have had to line the front inside so that the delicate smocking wont catch on the body and also i makes the garment more comfortabel to wear.
canadian smocking this is the canadian smocking in which i did on the front of the top for this techniche i creating a grid like showen in the diagram In pattern two dots are connected with pulled stitches which are knotted and separated by a slack knotted stitch. Mark squares of 2 .5 cm x 2.5 cm on the wrong side of the fabric. Mark the red diagonal lines that represents pulled stitch. Mark the numbers 1,2,3,4,....while learning, as it will be easier to follow the diagram. Then Stitch with 3 strands of Anchor thread of the colour that matches the fabric. the Folds look good in satin material i which used and once all the rows are stitched the look will be acheive
pattern
front
back i cut my own byas binging for this garment and stitched it in non stretch machine.
outfit one : trousers it was decided that after twalling procces of a skirt that the outfit out be suited better to trousers instead . so this was the design in which i came up with. because the outfit is very busy with a smocked top and then a statement jacket i decided to keep thes trousers very simple using a white poliester and some sheer binding wihich i used around the pockets and around the hem. the block i used was a size ten ladies block i used this as it was a relitivly high waist line wich for my target market 16-60 would be benifishal as it flattering with the crop top but also able to contour and hold in shape for the older market,
pattern
this is the pattn used for the trousers consisting of front and back , sip blinds pocket bag and blind and waist band. while drawing the pattens i shaped the legs to make them more of a slim fit to add a bit of a feature i added bingind rounf the pockets and around the hem of the trousers and as a last finishing touch i assed a decretive dimonte button
outfit one : jacket This jacket was one of my main statement piece i wanted the backed to be very oversized with a dropped shoulder to create a laidback feel to the garment. during the twalling process i used a men jacket block as the shape was more boxy and had more the shape that i wanted i dropped the hem line and added two darts in the back this was to create a curved in shape with was achieved brilliantly after the twalling proccess i decided the not fasten the front of the garment, due the the over sized look to it and with the choice in the final fabric it acheived a better look if left open at the front on the inside of the jacket it inserted a double jetted pocket for practicality as the outside was left plain as the fabric used was very eccentric over all i am really happy with the way this jacket turned out.
pattern
during the pattern making process for my jacket this was the guide in which i used to drop my shoulder which i a key feature in the shape of the jacket.
details
double jetted pocket added for functional use, when doing pocket the facing have to be fused and then sewn with lock stitch 1cm away from cut line. then folded back over 1cm and sewn along the same line again. the pocket opening is then cut open making sure to leave two triangles at each end so that a neat end can be achieved. the facing is then folded into its self to which the pocket bag sew on and attached to the facing and triangle edges for an added design feature in the lining i have made a half circle lining facing to give a luxurious feel to it
linging for my jacket linging i had to make it slighty larger than the shell of my garment so there was enought ease for the model to move in so these are the measurment in which i when by:
back
added pleat allowance in the centre back approximately 2cm added 0.5cm at the shoulder end in height and width and taper to 0cm at the neck point and the back pitch.
front
i have added 0.5cmat the shoulder end in height and the front pitch. added 0.5 cm at the underarm position and taper to 0cm at the hemline i removed the facing and added 2x the seam allowance from the cutting edge of the facing towards the front.
sleeve
i have added 2x seam allowance at the underarm of the sleeve added 2x the seam allowance at the hind and forearm seams of the top sleeve, it is then pivoted from 0cm at the crown onto the new levels, which gave me the additional width to the sleeve lining.
outfit two
outfit two : trousers For these trousers i wanted to create something that was very light and summery and very fluid looking but also had shape around the buttocks and waist line. to achieve this i increased the waist band and shaped it to make a high waist . for the flare i took measurement between the buttocks and the back of the knee from that point using a campus i created almost half circle shape by doing this i achieved a shape at the bottom of the hem that flowed really well when the model was walking but still keeping the fitted shape at the waist and bottom. i rolled the hem of the trousers and used a invisible zip at the side seem that way i was available to embroidery the full front and back. Because the chosen fabric was slightly see through i decided to partly line the trousers so that they were less revealing for the model. Overall I am happy with the finished look.
details
for my french knots i created a nice texture by wrapping wool round the bottom of my needle one to three times then pulling it back trought this is roughtly the method used. 1. useding a straw needle (shaft of the needle iss same circumference as the eye so it passes throught easy) 2 keep the tension on your working thread while i pulled the needle throught so that the coils stay in their propper place on your needle . 3 wrapp the thread forward and around the needle before pulling it back down into the fabric and then you have the knot. i then mixed these knots with a mixture of white and sheer sequins and sequins fabric o create a textured look all of which is hand done .
outfit two : top
after the twalling procces i which i made a pleated top it was decided that the outfit would be better suited to a more fitted top that incorpirated some of the same fabric in which the jacket was made from. from this i made a tight jersy top using a size ten block i then used the outer side of the jacket fabri to create the sleaves i then bounded all the edged using bias strech binging. i didnt alter the block much as i wanted the garment to be fairly simple as it will be combined with the very embellished trousers
outfit three
outfit three :skirt from the pattern process of this skirt i created a circle skirt but after the toiling process it was decided that draping the skirt would be easier as the top half is smocked just like the top in outfit one . so for this i draped the smocked fabric onto the dummy from then i inserted a invisible zip at a seam made at the back of the skirt. the skirt works because the fabric is smocked which almost shrinks the fabric by half so by doing this it allow the bottom half of the skirt to have enough ease to walk in. to give the skirt some shape i draped a two part waist band onto a dummy I did it this way as i wanted the band to be every fitted and my draping it gave a more exact shape. i then attached the shell to the lining waist band and sealed it by anchoring points in the smocked detail . for smocking detail see: OUTFIT ONE : TOP
outfit three : top this was one of my more simple designs i wanted to create something that was simple enough not to take attention off the skirt but also keeping the texture theme going. during the toiling process i used a size 12 bodice block as i wanted to have a garment that was more fitted in shaped. i originally wanted to have a seam up the back which merged into a triangle like outfit one top but then changed this as after toiling i thought they were to similar . instead I dropped the keck line and added sleeved to give a more sophisticated look to it . I then bound all the edged in bias binding like in outfit one using a not stretch binding machine. to add more detail to the top I embellished lace motif with sequence fabric and attached this to the neckline.
f i n a l Garments
outfit one :top
this was one of the most time consuming garment due to all the smocking it was also very difficult to cut the pattern pieces out of the smocked fabric but in the end i am very happy with the garment and i would value this garment at ÂŁ60
outfit one : trousers once again i am very happy with the outcome of these trousers the only thing i feel i could have look more into is the size as although they were a size ten block the end garment is roughly a 6 or an 8. i would value these trousers at ÂŁ20
outfit one: jacket
my favourite part of this garment has to be the inside lining and the overall shape . i feel that the shape and design of the garment is prefect for both ends of my market. i value this garment at ÂŁ70
outfit two: trousers these trousers have the most detail in then out of all my garment and there was a lot of time spend embroidering them so for that reason i value these trousers at ÂŁ65
outfit two: top
this was one of my more simple garments it didn’t take a lot of man hours to make but the end result is perfect as it subtle next to the trousers i value this garment at £20.
outfit three: skirt
this is one of my favourite pieces i love how it Reflects light and how angelic is looks there was a lot of time smocking the top half so for this i value this garment at ÂŁ64
outfit three: top
this my last and final garment i deliberately made the sleeves that bit longer to give a ruffle texture look to them i love the finished garment i feel that it is classy and well made. i value this garment at ÂŁ35
fabric and garment c o s t i n g
fabric costing fabric price per meter: cotton lining: £6 white lining:£1 viscose: £8 satin: £11 binding: £0.25 polyester: £3.50 quilted woven: £15 jersey: £3
outfit one:
top: 2.5m satin £22 0.5m cotton lining £3 buttons £0.05 total: £25.05 trousers: 2m polyester £7 1m binding £0.25 button £1 zip £0.50 total: £.7.75 jacket: 2m white lining £2 2.5m quilted woven £37.50 total: £39.50
outfit two
top: 1m jersey: £3 0.5m quilted woven: 7.50 totaly: £10.50 trousers: 4 m viscose: £32 1m cotton lining: £6 zip £0.50 embellishment: £5.00 totalt:£43.50
outfit three
top: 1.5m viscose: £12 embellishment: £7 total: £ 19 skirt: 3 m satin £11 0.5m cotton lining: £3 zip: £0.50 total: 36.50
Gemma McMullan Herriot Watt University textured white Subliminal nature Spring/summer 2014