Gemma Vanson BA Fashion Design and Development Fabric Sourcing
Fabrics; Moving forward from the concept development I have decided to concentrate on the active aspect of the Fabrics, Therefore I will no longer be including a Remade section in my Collection. The Heritage section comes in the form of technical fabrics, there will no longer be divided sections to the collection and it will work as one single coherent collection. That includes the functional and heritage fabric aspects in one.
Light Grey
Dark Grey
Black
Royal Blue
Lime Green
Original Colour Palette sent to suppliers;
Fabric Sourcing. Fabric Sourcing; To Begin sourcing fabrics and Trims I contacted Mills that I had been working with throughout my time at Christopher Raeburn. Some of the mills that were willing to work with me include: Schoeller, Frizza Spa, Riri and Baur Vliesstoffe. Schoeller is a highly Technical Fabric mill that provide fabrics for the sportswear and fashion industry. Their Fabrics are high tech and functional made with patented technologies that they are constantly working to improve. Schoellers Agent for the UK Peter Martin met with myself and a selection of my peers to talk about the mill and whet they could offer us. Frizza Spa are an Italian mill that specialise in amongst other things Lightweight and technical fabrics. Although they provide large runs of fabric from 500 mts upwards they were able to offer me stock fabrics that were left from past orders. So I sent over my colour palette and they provided me woth the stock fabrics free of charge. Riri are a European mill specialising in High quality trims, they are well known wihtin the industry to provide The highest quality available. I was able to place a small student order free of charge with the UK representatives Peter and Jayne as I had been working with them for the past 2 years. Baur Vliesstoffe are a mill that provide high quality insulation fabrics made from natural swiss Wool. I had met the representative at fabric fayres on numerous occasions and was able to approach him for some sample lengths of Lavalan sport (their sportswear article) Their Delegate Matthias Boehme offered me these free of charge.
Water resistant Cotton Lining - 100% Cotton - An all weather fabric, incredibly tough, water resistant and breathable.
Stotz ETA Proof - 100% Organic Cotton
In contact with water, cotton fibres swell approx. 10%. This volume increase closes all pores which results in a waterproofness, which withstands rainfalls and storms. The measured pore size is 2-3 Micrometres, small enough to prevent penetrating water and big enough to let pass body humidity. -
Weatherproof Windproof Breathable Sustainable; Made of renewable, organically produced cotton.
Lavalan Sport - 90% Virgin Wool / 10% Polyactid (Produced from the renewable sources of Corn) 150gsm
- Water Repellent - Flame Retardant - Machine washable at 30 degrees
4 way stretch for extra comfort, Breathable, heat retention, moisture control, water repellent, wind repellent, ecorepel, the ecological way to repel water and mud Isn't it fascinating how ducks can dive under water and re-emerge with their feathers still dry? Ducks and all water fowl produce an oily secretion that makes their plumage repel water. The textile finish ecorepel biomimics this natural impregnation water repellent function. Function ecorepel imitates this natural protection as a highly functional and odorless high-tech finish. It is based on long paraffin chains that wrap themselves spiral-like around individual fibers, filaments or yarns in a very fine film. This reduces surface tension so that water droplets and even mud with significantly higher surface tension run off simply. The breathability is not affected and the feel remains pleasantly soft. Benefits ecorepel offers modern and clean water repellence inspired by nature. This high-tech finishing is ecologically sound and free of fluorcarbons. Ecology is important to us. As ecorepel renounces to the use of fluorcarbons, it is easily biodegradable in accordance with OECD 302 B (80-100 %). Schoeller continues to support eco certifications such as bluesign or Oeko-tex, and ecorepel naturally complies with these guidelines.
Fabric Attributes.
Active Fabric - Composition 27% Polyester, 23% Merino Wool, 14% Polyurethane, 6% Elastane
Airtech Mesh - 100% Polyester, Lightweight and Breathable sportswear fabric.
Sportswear Fabric - Composition 96% Nylon 4% Elastane 145 gsm
Ultralight Soft Protection. abrasion resistant, breathable, Water repellent, Wind repellent Comparable comfort in combination with wind and rain repellency can otherwise only be achieved with significant additional weight. The USP by schoeller-fabrics create this effect with an ultra-light protective shield, which has very little impact on the materials weight.
Heavy weight Mesh - Composition 100% Nylon 360gsm
Abrasion resistant, Breathable, Fallproof, Water repellent.
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Water resistant Wind resistant Lightweight Functional
This Fabric is Perfect for my Consumer market in the fact it is easy use and clean. The fabric Retains its shape meaning it can be screwed up and thrown in a bag or pocket and will un crease quickly and easily when the user comes to wearing it again. Wash at 30 degree, Do not Iron, Do not Tumble dry, Do Not bleach
Fabric Attributes.
Lightweight Rubberised Fabric Composition 86% Nylon, 14% Polyester
Viscose Jersey - 95% Viscose 5% Elastane 290 gsm
Sweatshirt - 100% Cotton 350 gsm (Both - Wash as Delicates) Unlike conventional textile manufacturing, digital printing entails very little waste of fabric, ink, water or electricity. Printing onto natural fibre textiles. No additional chemicals are used in the printing or preparation process. Cotton Elastane 1 x 1 Trimming Rib - Composition 96% cotton/4% elastane
A smooth finish trimming rib, soft and stretchy medium weight for neckbands, cuffs and waistbands.Â
The function: corkshell is made of an FSC-certified cork granulate that is a by-product in the production of wine corks. This natural granulate is pulverized and combined with the fabric in a patented process from Schoeller. Two corkshell options are available. One is a 2-layer fabric construction with a cork coating on the inside of the fabric. The other is a 3-layer fabric construction in which the cork coating is between a stretchy, water and wind repelling surface fabric and a highly breathable lining that can be adapted to the requirements of weather conditions. Additionally, cork has natural stretch properties and therefore corkshell can be offered in both 2-way and 4-way stretch qualities. The effect: corkshell offers up to 50% higher thermal insulation when compared to traditional soft-shells and is highly breathable. corkshell fabrics are soft and very lightweight. In addition, they offer high wearer comfort and aid in moisture and odor management. The possibilities of use in apparel: corkshell is ideal where ever thermal insulation is needed. Therefore it is suited for all outdoor activities, especially cold weather conditions, but as well for spring and autumn.
Fabric Attributes.
Cork shell corkshell: naturally warm With corkshell from Schoeller, it is now possible to combine the outstanding natural features of cork with those of high-performance fabrics. corkshell offers much higher thermal insulation than functional fabrics while offering both high breathability and wearer comfort.
Thermal Fabric - Composition 76% Nylon, 18% Polyurethane, 6% Elastane 235 gsm