Season; SS14
05.04.2013 MP Style Description Mens Parka Date
Fully Lined and filled Garment.
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
Season; SS14
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
05.04.2013 MP Style Description Mens Parka Date
Fabric; Fabrics and trims are to be used as shown, face up.
2
1.Fern Organic cotton 1
2.Grey cotton lining
3. Dark grey Lightweight 3
3
B.O.M
1
3
3
Fabric / Trim
Amount / MTS
Organic Cotton 1 Cotton Lining 2 Lightweight Fabric 3 Lavalan sport Fill Snaps Fusing Back neck label Care label Size pip Riri Zip ME 6 O/E
3 1.5 0.2 3 8 0.50 1 1 1 1
Season; SS14
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
05.04.2013 MP Style Description Mens Parka Date
Bartack Placement.
Hood Style lines
Snap front attachment on storm flap all 1.5cm from edge of storm flap and 15cm apart Middle snaps 31cm apart. Storm Flap Concelaing 75cm Open end Metal size 6 zip, To be stitched 0.5cm from fabric edge.
31cm Double entrance pocket with pocket cover Topstitched over welt pockets. (See details page for further details.) 6cm Cuff hem finished with 0.5cm elastic double turned at 1cm hem.
Season; SS14
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
05.04.2013 MP Style Description Mens Parka Date
Brand Label stitched at C.B. 4cm From neckline.
Back neck Facing as it will look once Brand label, Size pip and Care label added.
Care label topstitched down at centre of facing.
M Care Label
Size pip stitched to Brand label Centrally.
Garment Costing
Fabric / Trim
Amount / MTS
Cost Per M / Unit Total Cost
Organic Cotton 1 Cotton Lining 2 Lightweight Fabric 3 Lavalan sport Fill Snaps Fusing Back neck label Care label Size pip Riri Zip ME 6 O/E
3 1.5 0.2 3 8 0.50 1 1 1 1
£20.00 £10.00 £01.50 £01.90 £00.10 £00.60 £00.10 £00.10 £00.01 £03.91
£60.00 £15.00 £00.30 £05.70 £00.80 £00.30 £00.10 £00.10 £00.01 £03.91
Total Fabric Cost Manufacture Cost
£86.22 £60.00
Total Plus 2.0 Mark up Wholesale price
£146.22 £292.44 £293.00
RRP (Wholesale plus 2.8 Mark up)
£820.00
The cost of this garment is considerably more than the other pieces as The brand would not expect to sell high quantities of this meaning that the fabric and manufacture prices will be high due to minimum order quantities with mills. However I would expect that the brand would Make higher margins on Other pieces that will sell higher quantities meaning the seasons average margin can be as high as 2.7
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
Season; SS14
05.04.2013 MP Style Description Mens Parka Date
Sample Size Spec K
L
F
I B
H M
J
G
A E
D
C
Position
Position Details
Size (CM)
A B C D E F G H I J K L M
Chest at Under arm Centre front Length (Not including Hood) Hem Circumference Sleeve Hem Circumference Sleeve Length From Shoulder Neck Circumference Cross Back (12cm from C.B. Neck) Centre Back Length (Not including Hood) Shoulder from Neck Edge To Sleeve Head Armhole Straight C.B. Hood Height (Neck to style line) C.F. Hood Height Pocket covering Length
54 81 118 32 64 55 45 85 12 26 26 21 47
Grade Rules (Plus minus from Medium size) Other areas please grade accordingly. Size Length Width Sleeve Length XS S M L XL
-6cm -3cm 85cm +3cm +6cm
-12cm -6cm 108cm +6cm +12cm
-2cm -1cm 64cm +1cm +2cm
Pocket Length -2cm -1cm 47cm +1cm +2cm
Season; SS14
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
05.04.2013 MP Style Description Mens Parka Date
Order Of Assembly (Seam Allowance is at 1cm unless stated otherwise.) 1. Lockstitch (L.S.) all Fill Pieces to all Outer pieces with 0.5cm Seam allowance 2. L.S. Welt into Left hand front piece as marked on Pattern 3. Attach Snaps onto welt pockets 4. Top stitch Pocket cover onto welts pocket 5. L.S. Centre back of garment 6. L.S. Side seams of garment 7. L.S. shoulder seams of garment 8. L.S. Storm cuffs into Sleeve hem 9. L.S. Sleeve into arm hole 10. L.S. Top hood to middle hood pieces 11. L.S. Middle hood to lower hood pieces 12. L.S. Hood into Neck hole of garment. Lining 13. L.S. 14. L.S. 15. L.S. 16. L.S. 17. L.S. 18. L.S. 19. L.S. 20. L.S.
Centre back of garment Side seams of garment shoulder seams of garment Facing to Lining Body Sleeve into arm hole Top hood to middle hood pieces Middle hood to lower hood pieces Hood into Neck hole of garment.
21. Attach Zip into C.F. Of garment 22. Attach Outer to lining leaving Opening in Sleeve lining. 23. Top stitch Sleeve lining into sleeve with storm cuff 24. Double turn Hem of storm cuff and insert elastic and Finish with topstitching. 25. Add C.F. Snaps
Season; SS14
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
05.04.2013 MP Style Description Mens Parka Date
Details
Cuff detail is elasticated at bottom with 5mm wide elastic in 1cm double turned cuff hem. Storm cuff secured at 6cm from sleeve hem edge.
Snap Placement 1.5cm from edg- Lining at Hem edge. es.
Back neck Facing. C.B. pleat Marked on pattern.
Double entry Pocket detail, 3x welt pockets. Top 2 pockets facing towards arm hole, Bottom pocket facing C.F. 47cm Pocket covering stitched around welt openings to allow access.
Season; SS14
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
05.04.2013 MP Style Mens Parka Description Garment Details Date
Garment Colour
Outer Thread Colour
Lining thread colour
Cuff thread colour
Fern
M103
M245
M103
Machine
Thread
Stitch density / Needle size
Straight stitch Bartack
Moon 120 Moon 120
8 - 10 Per Inch 1cm
Care Label Both colourways
Outer and Lining ; 100% Cotton Contrast; ;86% PA 14%PU Exclusive of Trims Wash as Delicates 30c MADE IN ENGLAND www.RAE.co.uk Quality Control Inspection Notes
Check Stitch Length (8 - 10 stitches per inch) Check for any skipped stitches Check all stitches are straight Check that the threads are the correct colour to match self and lining as spec sheet Check that the Rae labels are sewn in correctly in two sides only and that the size pip has been sewn on level Make sure that all top stitching is correct and match the spec sheets and samples Check for any holes in the fabric
Season; SS14
XS, S, M, L, XL Materials Organic cotton Colourways 1. Fern Green Size Range
05.04.2013 MP Style Description Mens Parka Date
Project Management
M.P. The manufacture of this garment was done by myself, The seamstresses were used on occasion to help with difficult details of the garment both using the equipment at Curtain Road. The garment is fully lined and filled, The filling meant having to stitch each Piece of Fill to its corresponding outer fabric, This is not a difficult process but would add to the manufacture time as it means stitching around each piece separately. This is something that would be reviewed with the manufacturer for production when costing. I put the outer together and the lining together so as to have two pieces. But, When Putting in the zip and Pockets of this garment I found this quite tricky and asked that the technicians help me to do this to avoid having to unpick the fabric. The technician was able to put in the C.f zip and to stitch the welt pockets in for me neatly and I finished the garment off with the topstitching. On reflection I felt that the C.F. Zip had been put into the jacket too close to the fabric edge (0.3mm). Due to the bulk of the fabric for production I will increase this to 0.5mm as is now on the spec sheet. I affixed the Snaps myself with the correct tool having sprayed them before attaching to the garment. Although I had sprayed the snaps before putting them into the garment they were easily scratched during application and so I had to re spray them whilst they were in the garnment which was not ideal as it meant covering the coat around the snaps with paper before spraying. The Quality of finish on this garment overall Is of a good quality to convey the design idea intended. The make was considerably less time consuming than previous pieces as I had the help of the technicians to finish difficult details and the Cotton fabric is a lot easier to handle than the Lightweight Pieces I was working on previously. I am happy with the Garment and would be happy to send this on to a manufacturer with the small changes mentioned for production.