Process Analyisis Document
K.A.L.E.I.D
Capsule Collection Year Three Gemma Wickham 1
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Contents Brief Concept Olafur Eliasson (Artist) Holland and Sherry Visit S/S 17 Trends Urban Luxe/Urban Designers Development of Ideas Colour Palette Fabric Research Target Market Fabric Manipulation Line Up Toille Development Final Designs Evaluation Bibliography and references
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BRIEF
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In this particular project the inspiration was rooted from many different sources bringing a lot of different elements to the design. Initially the inspiration was taken from particular exhibitions in Edinburgh including “Another Minimalism” at the Fruitmarket Gallery as well as other galleries including the National Gallery and “The Open Exhibition”. It was through these sources that an initial concept was formed to create the main concept of our research stage. The Designer drew the most poignant inspiration from the “Another Minimalism” exhibition and was inspired to form a concept through a Kaleidoscope idea. This Kaleidoscopic idea was mainly inspired by Olafur Eliasson’s work where he projected images on to walls to create changing patterns. This idea was then further developed through analysis and drawing as well as looking at other examples of Olafur Eliassons sculptural work giving more depth to the research along with this stained glass windows and the projecton of light through coloured glass was also taken from this source. As well as this the designer incorporated the idea of geometric lines, not only through the kaleidoscopic idea but also from William Gears work at his exhibition in Edinburgh. The other source to go hand in hand with the initial concept are the “Urban Luxe” style. The designer wanted to create something that will be very accessible to the urban style follower as well as being fashion forward at the same time. The designer would create a collection that is urban but with a feminine edge taking inspiration from designers such as Greg Lauren and Vetements. Through looking at the designers the designs for this collection will be very current and cutting edge and also be functional to wear and incorporate in to an everyday wardrobe. The designer will also design with a customer ambassador in mind helping inspire the design process more and giving the collection a very specific target market. Holland and Sherry is also a vital element to the design inspiration and at least one garment for each outfit has to be inspired by a Holland and Sherry fabric. For this project the designer looked at the traditional fabric of Herringbone and developed print ideas based on this. Using CAD the designer looked in to extracting the different textures of the Herringbone pattern and layering this in to make another pattern to then be translated in to a kaleidoscopic pattern to go with the initial concept. The S/S 17 trends would inspire the silhouette for this collection featuring cropped styles as well as sheer fabrics and bold neon colours. The bomber jacket is also an emerging style that is coming through
again and will be incorporated in to the collection. The colour palette for the collection roots from many sources including the trends. The colours are also drawn from the sculptural pieces of Olafur Eliasson again and this is translated in to and icey toned palette including purples, pale blues, pale pinks and a hint of neon pink inspired by the Digital trend. 5
Concept
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K.A.L.E.I.D was an initial concept drawn from the idea that you are taken in to another world whilst looking through a kaleidoscope. The inspiration was taken from the very beautiful and elaborate nature which the objects in the kaleidoscope create, it is always intriguing to see how the different colours and shapes collide with each other. The other worldly feel you get when looking in to these objects, I thought created an almost dream like state. I was further inspired to develop this particular concept through an inspiring song I came across including the lyrics “ But that night, we stared in wonder Wide-eyed but scared to wonder....... You didn’t wake me from my kaleidoscope dream. These lyrics triggered something in my mind when I started designing as music has always remained one of my main sources of inspiration. Stained glass was also something I found very similar to kaleidoscopic patterns. I found the way in which the light projected through the coloured glass to create beautiful reflections intriguing. The collection aims to bring together both aspects of the inspiration/ideas behind my concept and make them form in to interesting design idea that presents the energy and dream like state of looking through a kaleidoscope. This is achieved mainly through my colour palette as i feel the muted pastel like/icey tones create a modern look combined with geometric shapes and lines. Through this unique concept I aimed to combine this with “urban Luxe” and create new and fresh designs suitable to this style designing relaxed silhouettes combined with geometric lines. these elements would then be complemented with elaborate print.
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Olafur Eliasson
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Olafur Eliasson is a Danish/Icelandic artist known for his sculptures and large scale installations. he incorporates elemental materials such as light, water and air temperature to improve the viewers experience. I came across Eliasson's work at the Fruitmarket gallery in Edinburgh and was Inspired initially by the kaleidoscope idea through seeing his installation, "Alter Image". The projected star at first reminded me of a kaleidoscope idea through the way the star was transitioning in to different shapes and creating lines and patterns. The neon glow of the colours was also a factor of inspiration. It was through seeing this work that I decided to research more in to his other work and I found works that created even more of a creative response from me. To my surprise he had in fact already created other works inspired by the very source of my concept. His Kaleidoscopic sculptures completely fascinated me and incorporated both geometric shapes and beautiful colour using coloured glass as subject matter. I knew then that I wanted to create a collection embodying all of the aspects his work conveyed. The very sheer size and scale of his kaleidoscopic sculptures are big enough to work through giving the affect that you are actually walking in to a kaleidoscope. To begin to try and translate these ideas in to fashion I completed drawings of his work and represented it in the way I seen it myself using experimental drawing techniques which would later on develop in to print ideas. The sharp geometric shapes he uses in his sculptures provoked ideas from me that would influence my embellishment, silhouette and colour in my designs.
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Lamp for urban movement10
Cold Wind Sphere
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aurora borealis particle, 2012
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Over 170 years ago the company Holland and Sherry was established and still today they continue to supply prominent tailors and luxury brands with the world’s finest cloth. In 1982 the business moved to Savile Row which remains today as their main registered head office. The company is still involved in research for even finer more luxurious cloths. They source the finest natural fibres from cashmere to pure worsted Vicuna. The cloths are woven by generations of craftsmen for the very best quality and involving the strong heritage only Holland and Sherry provide. Through the visit to Holland & Sherry in the Peebles warehouse it was very interesting to get an insight in to the way things are made and how the day to day business is run. What immediately struck me when visiting was the pride, time and effort everyone involved puts in to their work. It was intriguing to see how all the cloths were woven and produced on machines, looking up close as to all of these things working just showed how much time was taken to ensure the best quality product was made. I found it amazing how global the company was and that they were also involved in providing cloths for the film industry, being involved with films such as Moulin Rouge. Proceeding to other areas of the warehouse we were shown some of the many cloths they had produced and were stored in the building. It was staggering how much fabric was stored in the building, each product with its unique design and fibres, it was very interesting to see the variety.
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Through looking at some of the cloths Holland and Sherry had made it was clear to see that heritage was a very important part of the design process. Fabric details such as the pinstripe typically used in suiting was eminent as well as the use of checks and the well used herringbone fabric. It was through seeing a lot of the Herringbone print that began to trigger a real inspiration in my mind for my own design process. Looking at the herringbone fabric up close gave me initial ideas for what could develop in to a print. The strong almost arrow like nature of the herringbone really struck an inspiration with me. I feel like the heritage and origins behind herringbone really represent Holland and Sherry well and it is a fabric you definitely associate with them. I have already began to think of possible ways I could incorporate the herringbone in to my designs through print and possibly the silhouette and construction of my garments. Through taking this inspiration I knew I would want to take an approach that would not be so literal, I wanted to combine my ideas with that of my own concept.
Another vital component of the company is the time and effort that they not only put in to the making of the cloth but also of the way things are presented and such as the bound books for the fabric samples. It was great seeing how much effort was put in to these factors through looking at these being made. Overall the visit was a great insight in to how such a global company creates such quality products.
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S/S 17 Trends
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Digital wave
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Through researching the s/s17 trends I was particularly drawn to the digital wave trend particularly the colour palette. The striking colours of neon pinks and purples were something I wanted to include in aspects of my design, but only subtle areas. I felt using these colours would bring a real focus on particular areas of my garment features. Overall I felt Digital wave was a good match for my Kaleidoscopic concept. Another area that this trend seems to focus on is print. geometric print is strong in this trend and bold blocks of colour mix well with my concept. I felt to go with this trend I would definitely have to develop my own print in order to create a unique collection. looking at silhouette, one of the stand out shapes of the season is the bomber jacket, in particular the cropped bomber. I was very attracted in this shape as I felt it fit in very well with my design aesthetic. I also appreciate the cropped style through its effect of elongating the body to make the wearer look taller. The Luxe jogger is also a key item/shape for the season I found could link very well with the Urban Luxe theme. I liked the idea of creating a lot of volume in the legs and gathering the fabric around at the ankle giving definition. Through taking inspiration from these trends my aim was to put my own twist on these and not follow them religiously.
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Urban Luxe
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Greg Lauren When I first started designing I wanted to take the "urban luxe" theme and make it my own my relating it to my own aesthetic. I did not want to keep the collection gender neutral or even male influenced, I wanted to keep the collection very much feminine whilst still retaining the urban/street look. I have incorporated the urban style in to my designs through the relaxed silhouette, shapes and the finishing and garment details. I wanted to create layering with geometric shapes as I thought this was a very street look. To make the collection the "luxe" side of urban I decided I would do this with the finishing, garment embellishment and the use of my own print. Through researching urban designers I was drawn to firstly, Greg Lauren and his use of layering and relaxed silhouette to create fresh and cutting edge garments. I admired his continuous use of the hood and how he incorporates this in to variously different silhouettes including sleeveless garments.
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Vetements 24
Another designer I found inspiring was the urban brand Vetements. Again, I really loved the use of layering and draping used in their clothing along with the longer shapes they put in their work. Not all shapes are short to be “young� they have played with the idea of creating long skirts and still making them suitable to the younger market through the design and styling as well as putting them together with the right garments. Their use of colour also inspired me as they used pale tones giving the urban clothing a more feminine edge.
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Design Development
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When developing my ideas I wanted to make sure it was a quick process of recording all of the ideas in my head. I wanted to initially create design ideas that involved geometric shapes and clean lines. I started with very simple ideas /shapes and developed them in to more elaborate pieces with layering involved.
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Through development I would include ideas from my research featuring the lines and shapes of stained glass and translating this in to panelling and lines. I came to the conclusion that to create lines I would use the embellishment of piping, I would then later on develop this so that it is able to go in to seamlines. Whilst designing I eventually began to develop long sleeved silhouettes and pointed geometric panels. I knew when I started developing my designs I wanted to develop the trouser more specifically by creating a variety of different shapes with different leg lengths. I also experimented with the idea of creating a longer top shape (almost like a dress), I felt that combining this long shape with a wider trouser would create an interesting silhouette.
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Colour Palette
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When deciding on the colour palette I took inspiration from a particular image through my research. This image was a picture of Olafur Eliasson’s work “aurora borealis particle� featured earlier on in this book. I was immediately drawn to the strong sharp lines of this sculpture and the colours included in it. This gave me the idea of using an icey colour palette including pale tones of blue, purple, pink and white. These cold colours would then give me a strong unique colour palette that I felt complemented my concept well.
Not only do the colours mix well with the kaleidoscope idea but they also retain the femininity I want to include in my urban collection. With regards to the embellishments I wanted to include darker purple colours to the details of the piping to bring definition, structure and geometric line to the garments. In addition, I also took very slight inspiration of colour through s/ s17 trends and took the bold neon colours found in digital wave and applied it to subtle areas of the garments including prints.
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Fabric Research
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I began sourcing my fabrics from local stores gathering what appealed to me. I then later began to research and order samples of fabrics online collecting different weights and colours. As my design development began to move forward as well as my colour story, i started to collect a lot more fabrics relating to my colour theme such as; pale pinks, peaches, blues, purples and lilacs. I had at that point decided I wanted to make all of my fabrics to include stretch in them. I felt this way as I felt the stretch properties really shape to the body tighter and smoother and the look would fit in well with an urban collection. I collected a lot of jerseys, I also looked in to collecting samples of scuba and mesh. To create the stained glass window idea I knew I wanted to include a sheer fabric possibly mixed with mesh whilst keeping the urban edge. I bought samples including white, peach and neon pink mesh, I immediately wanted to use the neon pink mesh to create the hint of neon I wanted for my collection, I thought it fitted in very well with the digital Wave trend also. 33
Target Market The target market for this specific collection would be a young woman 18-30 who is not afraid of making a statement with their clothing and is confident with their body shape due to the layering and shapes of the garments. As the collection is based on urban luxe the ideal consumer would either be interested in that style or be willing to experiment with their look. As the collection still retains a look that is feminine this may broaden the target market to people who are not usually urban wearers. When I designed this collection the customer ambassador I had in mind was the Australian born singer/rapper Iggy Azalea. As a follower of her music I knew immediately that the urban luxe style was a perfect description of her clothing choice she had embodied already. Also the colour palette is something that she is seen wearing a lot of as this complements her hair colour and skin tone well.
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Fabric Manipulation I knew when I decided on my concept I definitely wanted to create my own print from scratch as it was something I had never done before and it fit in really well with my concept. The prints initially developed from drawings I had created from stained glass in my sketchbook. I then scanned these in to photoshop and enlarged, manipulated/mirror imaged them to create the kaleidoscopic patterns. this took a lot of time however I was happy with the results . I completed this same process with drawings inspired by Olafur Eliasson and created what would be my final print I would include in my collection. The image reflects the icey colour palette and works well with the other fabrics for the collection. I proceeded to get my print printed digitally at the university on a stretch fabric to make it compatible with the other garments.
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Holland & Sherry Print
For this collection, Holland and Sherry inspired me through their use of the traditional fabric herringbone. I immediately knew I wanted to use this as a source of inspiration as it was frequently used by them and i could see it as having links with my concept. The almost arrow like shapes the pattern creates linked back to the geometric lines I already used to design and I knew I wanted to combine this in a kaleidoscope print.
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To create the print I took a picture and drawing of herringbone fabric and extracted the textures on photoshop. I then combined these and changed the colours to fit in with my project. I then created this in to a Kaleidoscope pattern using the method I had used previously. I was very happy with the results of the print.
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Final Line up
This is the final line up of the K.A.L.E.I.D collection. The collection combines tight fitting silhouettes with long loose shapes and layering. I wanted to include as many garments in one outfit in order to maximize the full potential of the design. The colour palette is very prominent and is what makes my collection stand out. I aimed to stay away from the muted tones of black and white and really create a strong feminine and eye catching colour palette. The Detailing of the piping I think strongly emphasises the shapes and panelling that the garments include. I also wanted to include functionality in my designs through the use of pockets in the sleeves and at the front of the jackets. Overall I fell like the collection includes a lot of variation of shapes and silhouettes and is a true reflection of my design process.
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Toille Development
Through my toilling process I encountered a few issues that would lead me to reconsider how hard it was going to be to achieve all of these garments to the best of my abilities. With all of my toilles I had to adapt the patterns numerous time to get the fit just right for myself as I am very petite. Even though I spent a lot of time on this I felt this was in good practice for me in the future to achieve perfect fit. This top for this outfit was harder to achieve than I Thought. the corner seams were something I had to practice, However I was happy in the end. The skirt was originally two skirts put together however, I decided to take away unnecessary fabric through toilling. The jacket also took a lot of time to get right as I aimed to get a cropped shape however I didn't take in to account the ribbed that needed to be added on so I continually had to make the pattern shorter to suit. 42
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In this second outfit the top worked out pretty well through the panelling and placement of layers. the Joggers also turned out well as I had previously took them in on the pattern before I toilled them. The Jacket also worked well however it did take me a while to correctly draft a hood.
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Final designs
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Evaluation
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Overall I have enjoyed the challenge of working on this collection even though I had some trying times. I feel like I have worked harder this semester and I am improving through my work. I did encounter a few issues however I have gained more confidence as I have conquered these issues and I know I can do it. I feel than to move forward, in future I would believe in myself more and be more free and creative with design. Overall I am proud of the outfits I have created and I am proud of what I am capable of. It is important to take in to account that most of the skills I had learned were self taught and that is something in itself. Through doing this collection I have learned you always need to believe in yourself and don’t give up if you think you can’t do it. I feel like I have tried my best to fulfil all aspects of the brief and my collection shows this.
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Bibliography
Text Eliasson, O. (2016) Studio Olafur Eliasson. Available at: http://olafureliasson.net/biography (Accessed: 20 March 2016). Pictures Andy Gilmore (4/5/12) Modern Art by Andy Gilmore, Available at:http://www.colourlovers.com/print/ blog/2012/05/04/colorful-modern-art-by-andy-gilmore (Accessed: 20/2/16). Beau Travail aime (2014) Beau Travail aime, Available at:http://beautravailaime.tumblr.com/ post/7460970042/yinyang-source (Accessed: 20/2/16). Eliasson,O (2016) Aurora Borealis Particle, Available at:http://olafureliasson.net/archive/exhibition (Accessed: 20/2/16). Eliasson,O (2016) Cold Wind Sphere, Available at:http://olafureliasson.net/archive/exhibition (Accessed: 20/2/16). Eliasson,O (2016) Lamp for Urban movement , Available at:http://olafureliasson.net/archive/exhibition (Accessed: 20/2/16). Eliasson,O (2016) One-way colour tunnel, by Olafur Eliasson San Francisco Museum of Modern Art,, Available at:http://www.olafureliasson.net/ (Accessed: 20/2/16). Fashion Gone Rogue (2014) Iggy Azalea Serves Up 90s Chic for REVOLVE Clothing Summer Campaign Read more: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/iggy-azalea-90s-revolve-clothing-summer-2014-campaign/#ixzz46PRXxyTU, Available at:http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/iggy-azalea-90s-revolve-clothingsummer-2014-campaign/ (Accessed: 20/2/16). Grave Ravens (2015) Vetements Ready To Wear S/S 2016 PFW,Available at: http://graveravens. com/2015/10/02/vetements-ready-to-wear-ss-2016-pfw/ (Accessed: 20/2/16). Jane Boddy, the WGSN Colour team (06.22.15) Colour Direction Women S/S 17 – Digital Wave, Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy1.hw.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/59179/page/3(Accessed: 20/2/16). Jane Boddy, the WGSN Colour team (06.22.15) Colour Direction Women S/S 17 – Digital Wave, Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy1.hw.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/59179/page/6(Accessed: 20/2/16). Lovers in vain (2016) Lovers in Vain, Available at:http://loversinvain.tumblr.com/page/18#21 (Accessed: 20/2/12). Mood Fabrics (2016) Hot Pink Polyester Wonder Mesh, Available at: http://www.moodfabrics.com/ hot-pink-polyester-wonder-mesh-307454.html (Accessed: 20/2/16). Oculto (2014) Oculto, Available at: http://o-c-u-l-t-o.com/post/81666879521 (Accessed: 20/2/16). Pinterest (2013) Iggy Azalea, Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/d7/3f/0f/d73f0f8d2a8d6be00dfc2fd96d265286.jpg(Accessed: 20/2/16). Pinterest (2013) Iggy Azalea, Available at:https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/425942077238449019/ (Accessed: 20/2/16). Pinterest (2014) Iggy Azalea, Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/d7/3f/0f/d73f0f8d2a8d6be00dfc2fd96d265286.jpg(Accessed: 20/2/16). Racatumba, A (2010) Icicle, Available at:https://www.flickr.com/photos/racatumba/5329839334/in/photostream(Accessed: 20/2/16). Sinclair,R (10.06.15) Design Development S/S 17 – Jackets & Outerwear, Available at: https://www-wgsncom.ezproxy1.hw.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/62095/page/1(Accessed: 20/2/16). Sinclair,R (10.27.15) Design Development S/S 17 – Trousers & Shorts, Available at: https://www-wgsn-com. ezproxy1.hw.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/62493/page/7(Accessed: 20/2/16). Stylish Fabric (2012) Light Pink Poly Rayon Spandex Stretch Jersey Knit Fabric, Available at: http://stylishfabric.com/light-pink-poly-rayon-spandex-fabric.html (Accessed: 20/2/16). Vogue.co.uk (16/11/15) Greg Lauren Spring/Summer 2016 RTW,Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/ready-to-wear/greg-lauren (Accessed: 20/2/16). 55
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