Volume 01 Issue 03
November/ December 2015
WHISKEY 101
THE SKINNY ON ALL THINGS WHISKEY
XMAS
GIFTS
YOUR HUSBAND NEEDS.
TAILOR-MADE
SUITS
THE RULES TO BUYING A CUSTOM MADE SUIT.
THE
SOLUTION
WINE CHALLENGE
THE EDITOR The Generic ge•ner•ic/ Noun: (1) A self-proclaimed cornucopia of tall tales, long mustaches and short back-and-sides. (2) An educational salad, tossed with the finest in style, gentry and general bad assery; prison breaks, tiger killers & Theodor Roosevelt* are mandatory. (3) A collection of the finest puzzles known to man, harnessing the power of Tesla’s X-Ray gun & Thor’s Hammer. Example Sentence: Can’t tell your Blue label from your Red? Your Maduro from your Claro? Your French Fork from your Mutton Chops? You need The Generic. *Remember, it takes more than that to kill a bull moose!
THE CONTENTS
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THE SHOP
THE STYLE
THE ARTICLE
THE SOLUTION
Xmas Gifts Your
Tailor- m ade
Wh i s k e y Blog -
Wi ne Ch a lle nge
Hu sban d N eeds .
Suits : The Rules To
T h e Sk i nny O n
Buying A Custom
All T h i ngs
Made Suit.
Wh i s k e y
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THE SHOP
XMAS GIFTS YOUR HUSBAND NEEDS.
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THE STYLE
TAILOR-MADE SUITS
THE RULES TO BUYING
A CUSTOM MADE SUIT THE BASIC RULE S FO R S U IT I NG A ND B O O T ING FROM G ENER IC PU Z Z LES : So you need a suit. Whether it’s for your graduation (congrats!), a wedding (good luck) or attending your beloved half-aunt's funeral (our sincere condolences), you’re going to need to add to your repertoire of suits and find one that looks and fits great.
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Remember, a badly fitting suit can make you look less dressed up than no suit at all. Rule number 1. Fit is everything – even the world most expensive suit will look a potato sack if it isn’t tailored to the contours of your body. If you can’t afford a tailored made suit, then grab a great looking suit from the rack at a local department store and then spend a few extra bucks on custom tailoring. Even when buying a suit from the store a few extra dollars will got a long way to giving your suit the “wow” factor you desire. If you are going to buy a suit online to save a buck or two, you should really be going to your local department store and try it on pre-purchase. This guarantees that you will have at least something to work with, when it comes to fitting. When buying a suit off the rack, the most troublesome and important element to fit is the shoulders; shoulder are incredibly hard to fix, if they don’t fit initially. A well fitted shoulder lies flat, with the seam on top of the shoulder lying un-rumpled and should be the same length as the shoulder under it. The arms should have no divots or arm wrinkles – this is the sign of a bad fit. A great suit fit should give the full range of motion, both buttoned and unbuttoned – you should be able to rotate and stretch your arms without restriction. Suits are styled on clean lines, you should be able to fit one finger between the collar of your shit and your neck, but no more than that. Your shirt collar should also follow the lines of your suit’s lapel.
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P E R FE C T LY S U IT ED THE JACKET CLOSURE
JACKET COLLAR
As a rule of thumb: If you are standing and wearing a suit you should have the jacket buttoned, while sitting, it should be unbuttoned, unless you are wearing a double breasted suit. When testing your suit in the store you should test the closure on your jacket to see how it wraps.
It’s easy to tell a well fitted collar from a poorly fitted one. Tight fits are very bunched around your neck and loose fits will mean the suit pulls away. Remember contours, you need to make everything smooth and sleek. Your jacket collar should rest against your shirt collar which in turn lies on the back of your neck. These elements should only barely touch without any significant gaps between them. If the collar is too loose it’s a very easy spot – there will be a gap where it is flopping back off your neck.
A bad fit on jacket closure is easy to spot as you will get an 'X' across the fabric where it is pulled tightly across your chest, causing the suit to warp as it strains.
JACKET LENGTH TROUSERS
A half-inch of linen – just like grandma used to say. The time-honored tradition for the relationship between a suit jacket and the shirt – this is not some cryptic code. It refers to the amount of shirt you should be able to see underneath your suit sleeve. This is terminology could be slightly old hat by modern standards and does not need to be followed to the letter, more a general guideline, so put away the measuring tape.
The fit on the trousers is also important: and befall a handful of critical rules. One: trousers should fit only on your waist, never on your hips and one finger should fit into your waist band – no muffin tops. By pulling your trousers up just a bit you are going to look vastly more refined, It looks sleeker and slimmer you want to avoid tight or loose fabric. The back of your trousers should be a smooth drape over the shape of your rear – the fabric should not be baggy or taut.
For sure, the sleeve should never hide the shirt completely and a small band of cuff should always be visible. Once again, this is a very easy adjustment for the tailor to make – so focus on the shoulder primarily.
You can spot a bad suit in the seat of the pants, when there are wrinkles, or loose u-shaped sags across the thighs. If you just need marginal changes, this can be done my tailor.
A good suit or jacket should fall just past the waist and drape over the buttocks. An ideal fit will cover your rear and stop before the top of your leg. Your hands also give a good marker, with your hand relaxed the base of the jacket should come to around your knuckles – of course this is purely subjective as different men have different arm lengths, but once again a good outline.
TROUSER BREAK
JACKET SLEEVE LENGTH
The trouser break is the small wrinkle caused when the top of your shoes stops your trousers cuff from falling its full length. This usually, should be a small subtle feature – one horizontal dimple or crease is usually ideal. The cuff should rest on the top of your shoe – the back of the trouser can sit slightly lower than the from resting just above the heel is appropriate. This is one of the easiest adjustments to make.
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Ru l e nu mber 1 . F i t i s e ve ryt hing even t he wor ld mo s t expensive su it wi l l l o o k a po t a t o sa ck if it i s n ’t tailo red t o t he co nto urs o f yo u r bo d y.
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The rule of 3 “ sometimes, always, never’ rule applies to the top, middle and bottom buttons of your suit jacket. Never wear all three buttons.
QUICK RULES 1. The shirt cuffs should not slide up when you stretch your arms. 2. This is the failing of many a man: Don’t ruin your custom-made suit with 2 dollar shoes. Do. Not. Wear. Trainers. 3. Always unfasten your jacket buttons when you sit. Absolutely, no exceptions. Make sure your socks are long enough, so that no skin on your leg is shown when sitting down - also. 4. The finish is everything - don’t go all sloppy and have a white undershirt poke through above your dress shirt neck. This is especially true if you are prone to sweating a lot. If you must wear under shirt, generic recommends that you go with a deep neck or v-neck vest. 5. Suits are a game of inches: so here’s the numbers. When you are standing ensure that at least 1/4 inch of a shirt collar is exposed above the suit collar. When you sit, the suit jacket collar will ride up and drown your shirt collar. Measure the jacket sleeves so that 1/2 an inch is exposed.
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YOUR CHOICES
FABRIC
The rule of 3 “sometimes, always, never” rule applies to the top, middle and bottom buttons of your suit jacket. Never wear all three buttons.
When picking a suit the fabric choice is super important, there are only a handful of fabrics designed for suiting – which is good, but there are still a lot of factors to picking the perfect one.
Single breasted suit: The most common type, and a staple in the most wardrobes – if you don’t have one, get one. The single breasted suited can be dressed up with a peak lapel.
In summer you’re going to need a breathable fabric to war against the sweaty back – in winter you’re going to need a thicker jacket.
The double breasted suit:
Fabric softness is a second factor, who wants to be engaged by itchy suit pants? Or feel trapped tight and unable to move because of an over starched jacket.
The double breasted suits is a statement piece, if you are vertically challenged or skinny, double breasted suits are probably not for you. Everyone should stay away from loud patterns and think pinstripes – always keeping your jacket buttoned – even when sitting.
Wool is probably the most popular fabric choice for men due to its versatility and refined look. Wool is a fully organic material which means that it breathers well and can be worn in summer and winter – in day or night. It is super soft wrinkle free but can be seen a clumpy, and unflattering.
Slim fit: Does exactly what it says on the tin, it means that it is closer to the body without excess fabric – this doesn’t mean you have to be tailored with an inch of your life, slim fit can be worn by a lot of different body types.
Cotton
is the second most popular fabric for suits and is derived from plant fibers. Cotton suits move and breathe well but are easily creased which make the suit look sloppy. They are satisfactory when it comes to softness but lag behind in the luxury department when compared to wool fabrics.
Classic fit: is comfortable and easy to wear, it is generously cut around the chest and waist which means less constriction but it still maintains a clean body shape.
Modern fit:
This style falls between both the slim and the classic – this is designed for the guy who don’t want the boxy classic fit but don’t think they can pull off a slim fit suit.
Linen suits are super lightweight and maintain their coolness in soaring temperatures. However, linen wrinkles easily and stains even easier, meaning it requires regular dry cleaning to maintain a fresh, crisp look.
Lapels: lapels are the tell-tale sign of a dated suit. A good rule of thumb is that your lapels should be about the width of your site. For the moment skinny ties are in, as are skinny lapels or more accurately fat ties.
Cashmere, on its own or as a blend, is rather luxurious but can give an unwanted shine to a suit. Depending on whether you want something fancily European or not, cashmere may not be suitable for work. But for pleasure? Always.
Notch Lapel - The Notch Lapel looks good at work, in meetings and for job interview, but is not too stuffy for date night or social event, a very balanced suit.
FABRICS
Peak Lapel – a Peak Lapel is used primarily for double breasted suits, however now the peak lapel is featured on a single breasted suit is now considered a sharp accent. Shawl Lapel – The Shawl Lapel is almost exclusively is almost exclusively seen on tuxedos and dinner jackets at weddings and black tie events. A Shawl Lapel on jacket adds graceful lines.
PATTERNS
Buttons:
The most common style today is a two-button suit. If you only have a three-button suit it’s time to go shopping.
Vents: The darts and pinches at the back of the suit jacket can dramatically change the fit of a suit and how it falls on your body. Center Vent:
As the name implies, the cut goes up the middle of the jacket. A Center Vent should lie closed when you are wearing your jacket or the jacket fit is not right.
Side Vent: Side Vents let you put your hands in your pants pockets without the jacket bunching up and allow the jacket to lie smoothly in the back when seated. Side Vents can also make a jacket appear slimmer.
7oz – 9oz: Lightweight. Ideal for the peak of summer here. Think African plains hot. 9.5oz – 11oz: Light to mid weight. Perfect for moving from spring to summer and late summer to autumn. Cause we all love awkward transitions. 11oz – 12oz: Mid weight. Perfect as the go-to fabric weight for most days. Choose this for your first suit purchase. 12oz – 13oz: Heavier mid weight. A satisfactory choice for daily wear, though maybe a little too hot to handle in the peak of summer. 14oz – 19oz: Heavy. Great on a cold autumn or winter’s day. Warmth made easy.
Accessories:
like pocket squares can add another level of sophistication to your suiting. If you are wearing a light suit a dark pocket square can provide a visual anchor. As a rule you should never match the color or fabric of your tie or suit to that of your pocket square. Never wear a sports watch with a suit, if this an “a-ha moment” for you then its time to get yourself a proper watch. For accessories, less is more - you shouldn’t be seen with a pocket square, a tie bar and a lapel all at once.
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THE ARTICLE
WHISKEY BLOG
THE SKINNY ON ALL THINGS
WHISKEY
WHISKEY 101 FR O M G E NE R I C PU Z Z LE S Beyond the fact whiskey is Golden brown and burns when you drink it – how much do you really know about this popular liquor? Can you maneuver your way round the various differences, what makes a scotch? How does this differ from an American blend? Do you like rye? Do you like bourbon? Are you angling for a neat pour? If you’re unsure about any of the above, we’re here to help.
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from the maturing of the whiskey - then there is a very flavorsome woodiness. If you were to do a similar test with Scotch there is more of a dominant smokiness – a Johnny walker blend for example will consist of a variety of fruit and you wouldn’t get a smoky flavor instead of a woody one.
WHA T I S W H IS KEY ? Whiskey is a spirit made from grain – usually with a wheat, rye or corn base. For the most part whiskey is aged in a barrel, but not always leading to a whole spectrum of whiskeys running from brown (with casks) to clear (without casks). On a basic level whiskey is for all intents a distilled beer – to turn beer to whiskey you must concentrate the beers volatile elements and age it in oak barrels until it matures – sometimes this can take several years.
HO W D O Y O U T E S T FO R FL AV O RS ? Take a small drop of whiskey in the palm of your hands and then rub them until the liquid evaporates – the scents that are left behind will give you an idea of the flavors’ and ingredients that were used in making them.
WHE R E D O Y OU S T A R T ? Admittedly, whiskey isn’t the easiest drink to embrace – it has an alcohol level that far exceeds that of wine or beer – leaving it out of the mainstream as well as being a traditional “man drink”. If you’re new to the whiskey game we recommend that you start at a lighter whiskey with a lower proof.
WHAT I S A BL E ND ? Blended whiskey means exactly what it says – it is a blended whiskey from multiple distilleries, different barrels and a variety of grains. Good blended whiskeys taste – like a good single malt – and are known for their reliability, as distillers can combine multiple barrels consistently across bottles. Most of the top brands are famous for their blends; Johnnie Walker, Dewar’s, Jameson and so on.
We recommend that you stick to a local brand: it’s always good to support your local distillery, also you are likely to get a better value whiskey on a budget. Don’t go straight for the top shelf stuff – the top level stuff is expensive, higher in alcohol with stronger flavor – and like most great things, one must develop a palette.
Single Malt:
a scotch whisky refers to whisky that is made solely from malted barley and is produced at a single distillery.
TH E M A JO R DIF F ER EN C E BE T W E E N A B OU R B ON , RY E A N D S C OT C H ?
Blended Malt:
Blended malt whisky is a blend of two or more single malt Scotch whiskies from different distilleries.
Blended Grain:
A blend of two or more single whiskies from, differing distilleries.
The key difference between these two styles of whiskey is dependent on the kind of wood the cask is made from and the whiskey was matured in. Bourbon whiskey traditionally has an American oak blend – this will lead to the whiskey having a wide assortment of flavors.
Blended Scotch: A blend of one or more single malts with one or more single grains.
Rye whiskey tends to be lighter and doesn’t need to be matured in new casks – meaning it has less woodiness. When you get into scotch whiskey the flavors that are evoked tend to be quiet pronounced – there is less flavor coming from the wood when compared to the bourbon.
HO W T O D R I NK I T ? Flavors are best revealed when there’s water present. You can either add water or of course add a bit of ice termed “on the rocks”. If you are a drinker of neat whiskey, have a glass of water on the side and on your palate will help release the flavors as you sip.
Bourbon:
according to U.S federal regulations bourbon must be made from 51% corn, aged in new charred, white oak barrel and bottled at 40% alcohol. Bourbon is distinguished by its sweet caramel and vanilla flavoring as well as its reddish tone.
Whiskey, ideally should only be served at room temperature in a tulip-shaped glass, which allows the whiskey to be swirled without spilling.
Rye:
this must be made with at least 51% rye mash and also aged in new charred oak barrels. Straight ryes are aged for at least two years – the rye grains typically spicier, fruity note.
Scotch Whiskey:
HO W CAN Y O U T E L L WHAT I S T HE GRE AT ST U FF?
This once again realies to the cask – with a bourbon you he first instances will be off fruity flavored notes – which come
What defines a great whiskey is pretty much down to personal taste. If you are unsure we recommend you stick with a premium label – Johnnie Walker for example has 200 years of heritage, with a thorough understanding of how to produce and make great whiskey. All this experience goes into every bottle they make.
Scotches are made in Scotland, most of all from malted barley and must be aged for a minimum of at least three years. Single malt scotches are made from only barley and water, and must be distilled in pots at a single distillery.
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SCOTCH
BOURBON
IRISH RISH WHISKEY JAPANESE WHISKEY
WHAT CAN I EXPECT - WHISKEYS BY REGION: Scotch
Japanese Whiskey
The Ron Burgundy favorite. Of course, located in Scotland with a generally spicy, smoky and peaty flavor. The recipe is predominantly malted barley, fused with corn and wheat. Scotland produces an abundance of rain slicked peat land leading to 5 regions producing different flavors and notes: Highlands (dry, heavy), Lowlands (grassy), Speyside (light, fruity), Islay (smoky) and Campbeltown (salty).
Japan actually distils, what is widely regarded as the finest whiskey in the world: the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013. Japan has a huge advantage in the whiskey distilling as they have more flavors to combine at their disposal. Japanese whiskey is noted for its fruity, floral and honeyed flavoring. The recipe consists of a malted barley mash (a combo of milled grains and water). Japanese whiskey follows the Scotch method—the mash is dried in kilns fired with peat (though using less peat smoke) and double-distilled in large copper pots. Japan’s whiskey distilleries are scattered throughout the islands of Honshu and Hokkaido, many situated in the mountain regions where there’s a good water supply.
Scotch requires to be matured for a minimum of 3 years, although is usually settled for 6-8 years inside white oak casks. The barrels are generally former sherry or bourbon vessels, though some innovators are using port, cognac and even beer varieties.
Irish Whiskey Home of whisky – the world itself come from the Gaelic “uisce” – meaning the water of life. Irish whiskey is known for its Light, smooth flavor and barley hues. A unique recipe of malted and raw barley triple-distilled in pot stills for purity and extra alcohol content. Now get this, Irish malt is a real artisanal whiskey as it is kilned (dried in a brick-lined oven) over coal, and is matured for a minimum of 3 years in recycled oak casks. Only three Irish distilleries bottle a range of brands: Old Bushmills in the North, Cooley in County Louth and Cork’s Midleton – famous for Jameson.
Bourbon American twist on classic whiskey recipes bourbon is traditionally sweet, smoky, rich usually with hints of vanilla or caramel. Federal law requires that at least 51 percent corn (most are 60 to 80 percent), as well as wheat, rye and barley. No additive coloring, flavoring or spirits. Other whiskeys mentioned are aged in old or recycled barrels, however by law – bourbon needs brand new barrels in white American oak – where it must mature for 2 years —the charred wood infuses the spirit with caramelized sugars, giving it that signature sweetness. Bourbons are usually from farm regions and corn-heavy states like Kentucky – often cited as the birthplace of the spirit, although they can be made anywhere in the U.S., Jack Daniels is technically Bourbon, however it is not processed in the same charcoal filter but is distilled in Tennessee.
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THE SOLUTION
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WINE CHALLENGE This clever wooden wine puzzle is certain to be a great gift for your friends when given with any bottle of wine! Watch your friends deliberate and attempt to unlock the wine bottle from the grips of this innovative puzzle. The solution to solving the puzzle requires creative and imaginative thinking. The reward is a liberated bottle of
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NEXT ISSUE January-February 2015
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