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Dyeing with Wild Plants

Adapted from Foxfire, Summer-Fall 1972

Original article by Karen Cox

Before clothing was readily available in vibrant colors at the local boutique or even Walmart, folks in the mountains—and many rural areas—had to depend on local plants to color their handmade cloth. Certain plants contain chemicals that act as dyes when they react to heat and other matter. To dye wool, people would prepare the fibers by setting them with a mordant such as vinegar and salt or alum. This helps “fix” the dye and keep it from fading. Once the wool was prepared, it was then set in hot water baths in which plant matter had already been steeped. The following information, collected from a series of eleven interviews by Foxfire students in the late 1960s and early 1970s, provide some of the local materials used to dye fibers:

Black walnut hulls, root, and bark were commonly used as a natural dye to produce shades of brown and black. Anyone who has picked up a fallen black walnut and used their bare hands to extract the nutshell knows just how potent the dye from the hull can be!

Edith Darnell told students that when the hulls are added to the boiling water, “they’re damp and when they get wet, that makes the prettiest brown. Now they might put the hulls in some kind of a bag in the bottom while it boiled. ‘Cause I know Mommy used to dye

A dye pot with cosmos flowers steeping in hot water.

quilt linings and all with it. I don’t guess it’d take too long. I guess she’d boil ‘em ‘til the dyes got in ‘em.”

Yellows come from many different materials, from onion skins to moss. Margaret Norton told students about the coreopsis flower, which she often used to make yellow dye, but also about extracting yellow dye from bark: “The outside of black hickory bark was made for yellows. Just go out and beat it off the trees. Boil it up and it makes beautiful yellows. We put the bark in flour bags. They hold quite a bit. There’s no way of measuring your time. The bark has to be boiled until you get the desired color. People used to do a lot of things by the moon. They thought by getting it on a certain time of the moon, they made more coloring or juice.”

Margaret Norton also shared with Foxfire students how to use indigo to color things blue: “I know that when my grandmother was making her indigo, she had what they called a ‘dye pot.’ They had to let this indigo set so long. I used a kind of lye to make my indigo. They used some kind of a brand and mixed it up and let it ferment several days before they used it. I understood that they had to put it in barrels of water and let it sit so long and ferment. The settling to the bottom of the barrel was what they used for the dye. Now I bought it in the powdered form. I had a chemical to go Mordant-soaked skeins of wool yarn ready for the dye pot.

with a powder. You don’t boil it; you just dip it in the hot dye until you get the indigo.”

What Margaret doesn’t mention is the magic of indigo—while in the dye pot, it is a deep green, but as soon as the dye hits the air, oxygen causes it to turn dark blue.

Straining the cosmos flowers before adding yarn.

Come experience the chemistry and art of dyeing yourself this spring and summer at the Foxfire Museum! On Saturday, April

23rd, May 21st, and June 25th, Foxfire will host Community Dye Days, included with general admission to the museum. Bring a plain white article that is 100% cotton such as a t-shirt, bandana, or tote bag. Drop it off in an indigo pot at the beginning of your self-guided tour. When you are done walking through the museum, you’ll be able to pick up your dyed piece! Make sure to bring a bag to take it home in—it will still be damp! Yarn dyed with cosmos hanging up to dry.

Looking for more hands-on opportunities to learn mountain crafts? This year, Foxfire will be offering classes in needle felting, wood stove cooking, wood working, flintknapping, and more. Check out our full event calendar at www.foxfire.org/events/

Foxfire is a not-for-profit, educational and literary organization based in Rabun County, Georgia. Founded in 1966, Foxfire’s learner-centered, community-based educational approach is advocated through both a regional demonstration site (The Foxfire Museum and Heritage Center) grounded in the Southern Appalachian culture that gave rise to Foxfire, and a national program of teacher training and support (The Foxfire Approach to Teaching and Learning) that promotes a sense of place and appreciation of local people, community, and culture as essential educational tools. For information about Foxfire, foxfire.org, or call 706-746-5828.

From The Rabun County Historical Society Gold Fever in Rabun County and Northeast Georgia

Muddy Creeks, 18 Pennyweights and Meager (or no) Profits

By Dick Cinquina

At one time, Rabun County was dotted with nearly 30 gold mines as prospectors hoped to strike it rich with the yellow metal. Unfortunately for the Rabun miners with dollar signs dancing in their heads, more money was put into the ground than ever taken out. However, that was not the case elsewhere in north Georgia. The largest quantity of gold in the eastern U.S. was found in the Southeastern Gold Belt, stretching along the Appalachians from Virginia to eastern Alabama. The belt widens in the Georgia mountains, which proved to hold the most gold. The richest deposits were discovered in Lumpkin, White, and Cherokee counties. Regardless of where it was mined, most Georgia gold was nearly 100 percent pure at close to 24 carats. As early as the mid-1500s, French explorers observed the Indians of Appalachia panning for gold in rivers and streams. Evidence exists that the Cherokee panned for gold along the Tallulah River in Rabun County. However, the indigenous population did not lavish the metal with the same fervor as their European trading partners and, years later, white settlers.

Gold Discovered in 1829 Legend has it that Benjamin Parks tripped over a small rock while deer hunting in 1829 and compared its color to that of an egg yolk. It was a gold nugget. More were unearthed on this piece of land, which was near present-day Dahlonega. Word spread like wildfire about Parks’ find, unleashing the nation’s first gold rush, the Georgia Gold Rush of 1829. “They came afoot, on horseback and in wagons, acting more like crazy men than anything else,” Parks later recalled. Within

Top left: Carl Smith, a goldminer on Dick’s Creek before Burton Dam

a few months of finding that first gold nugget, 10,000 to 15,000 miners, the so-called ’29ers, swarmed the area to stake claims. Auraria was established at the center of this manic activity, quickly becoming a gold rush boomtown. Derived from the Latin word for gold, Auraria also was known as Scuffle Town and Knucklesville, courtesy of its saloons, brothels and conflicting claims. Gold deposits soon were discovered several miles north of Auraria at a spot the Cherokee called Dalanigei, which roughly translates into gold. The Cherokee name soon was Anglicized to Dahlonega, which became the nation’s second roaring boomtown. Auraria, whose population and importance rapidly declined with the rise of Dahlonega, eventually disappeared into history as a ghost town.

U.S. Mint Opened Dahlonega Branch So much gold was mined in this region that the U.S. mint opened a branch in Dahlonega in 1838. More than $100,000 of gold coins was minted in the branch’s first year of operation. By the time the branch closed in 1861 with the outbreak of the Civil War, nearly 1.5 million gold coins valued at more than $6 million had been minted. There was a dark side to the Dahlonega gold rush. The Cherokee Nation owned much of the gold-bearing land in north Georgia. Gold whetted the appetite of white settlers for the remaining Cherokee land that had not been ceded to Georgia. Tensions between settlers and the Cherokee escalated, ultimately leading to the forced expulsion of the Cherokee from north Georgia during the winter of 1838-39 on the infamous Trail of Tears. If gold was a contributing factor to the Trail of Tears, that reason was short-lived. The get-rich-quick gold fever started cooling in 1849 when many of Dahlonega’s ‘29ers” became “49ers” in the California gold rush. Moreover, the Dahlonega gold deposits were gradually mined out.

Rabun County Gold Found in 1830s Gold fervor was not limited to the area around Dahlonega. It spread in a northeasterly direction to Rabun County, but a distance of only 40 miles made a world of difference. John Morris is believed to have made the first discovery of gold in Rabun County in the 1830s on a parcel of his land along Dick’s Creek, west of the town of Burton, which now is submerged under Lake Burton. Mining operations in this area ceased during the Civil War, but later resumed for another 25 years. The county’s other primary gold field was on land owned by James Stonecypher along Moccasin and Wildcat creeks, also on what is now the western shore of Lake Burton. Mining here, too, ended with the Civil War but continued sporadically for many years after the war. The mining operations in this area kept creek waters muddy due to the placer method of prospecting for gold. Unlike Above: Visitors observe gold mining by the placer method

Below: Thomas Nichols laid out a shaft to dig a gold mine, circa 1910

Our History Rabun County Historical Society - Gold Fever

the Dahlonega area, Rabun County did not offer miners rich veins of gold. Rather particles of gold were embedded in quartz rock formations. Once the gold-bearing quartz was mined, stamping machinery crushed the rocks. The resulting gravel was dumped into wooden troughs called sluice boxes through which creek water flowed. The sluice box contained a series of wooden strips. The gold dust, which could be as fine as flour, dropped out of the water and accumulated against these strips, since gold is heavier than sand and gravel. In this way, gold was captured while the waste material spilled out of the end of the sluice box into the creek, causing the muddy creek water downstream.

18 Pennyweights Per Ounce of Gold The meager profitability of Rabun County gold mining is evident by the fact that gold valued at only about $150,000 to $250,000 was mined from all of the operations along Dick’s, Moccasin and Wildcat creeks. The same was true of a few other mines in other parts of the county. An 1897 edition of the Tallulah Falls Spray newspaper reported, “In the Persimmon district is the Moore mine that has been worked at for years and has always paid expenses and a small margin over.” In other words, minimal profitability was a hallmark of the Moore mine. The Spray went on to report that an average of 18 pennyweights, or less than one ounce of gold, was being extracted per ton of quartz from the Moore mining operation. By current standards, that level of output is not considered economically feasible. Neither was it then. These paltry profits and amounts of gold did not dampen the Clayton Tribune’s enthusiasm for mining. A 1920 newspaper article exclaimed, “The Rabun Mineral and Development Co. is moving right along…The yellow metal is showing grand promise upon approach of the famous McClain vein (on the western side of Lake Burton) which has produced millions in years gone by…We think we are on the inside of information concerning this mine (and) before many moons, we can give something exciting to the lovers of gold and that means all of us, of course.” This was sheer fantasy, based upon wishful thinking not hard facts. Ohio Mining Company Finds Little Gold Mining companies located outside Rabun County also got into the act. An 1899 article in the Clayton Tribune reported, “Mr. Chas. F. Renner of the Eureka Mining Co., Canton, Ohio, has returned to the Moore mine…Mr. Renner will have the tunnel cut further in the hill (to mine quartz ore)…and it is thought the real vein will be reached soon. They anticipate putting up an expensive (rock crushing) plant somewhere near here, if they find indications (of significant gold).” Eureka never found any rich gold deposits. Gold mining all but ceased in Rabun County by the 1930s as prospectors finally realized the amount of gold in this area did not justify the expense and backbreaking labor to mine it. Gold was not the only mineral that has attracted attention of Rabun miners. Rubies, citrines, opals and amethysts have been found. As late as 1963, Harley Ledbetter was mining amethysts near Mountain City. He claimed his amethyst mine was the largest in the nation. A 75-carat amethyst discovered near Tate City in neighboring Towns County is displayed in the museum of Georgia’s state capitol. However, gem mining, like that for gold, failed to make prospectors wealthy. Gold fever burned brightly in the minds of generations of Rabun County prospectors. But the hope never matched the reality; there simply was not that much gold in them thar hills. Gold fever that started with a bang ended with a whimper.

Learn more about our history by becoming a member of the Rabun County Historical Society. Membership and complete information about the Society’s museum are available at www. rabunhistory.org. The newly renovated museum at 81 N. Church St. in downtown Clayton, which houses the Southeast’s largest collection of Tallulah Falls Railroad artifacts, is open ThursdaySaturday from 11 to 3. The Society is a not-for-profit organization under Section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code, making membership dues and donations tax deductible. Visit us on Facebook

Dick Cinquina holds graduate degrees in history and journalism, making his work for the Rabun County Historical Society a natural fit for his interests. He is the retired president of Equity Market Partners, a national financial consulting firm he founded in 1981. In addition to writing monthly articles for the Georgia Mountain Laurel, Dick helped produce the Society’s new web site and is involved with the renovation of the group’s museum. After vacationing in this area for many years, he and his wife Anne moved to Rabun County in 2018 form Amelia Island, Florida.

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