Novi Sad helps host the biggest event in European handball N째4 www.inyourpocket.com
Experience the authentic Serbian countryside at these unique tourist farms
Culture & events
Join over one million partygoers for five days of beer, music and fun
The Belgrade Internation al Theatre Festival is th gest event of its kind in the region
N°14
www.inyourpocket.com
In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in more than 50 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com.
In Your Pocket Europe’s City Guide inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
3
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents Arriving in Novi Sad
6
In praise of laid-back life
The Basics
7
History
9
Culture & Events
11
Where to stay
21
Sweet Dreams
Restaurants
25
Slow food movement
Cafés
32
Enjoy Novi Sad’s favourite pastime
Novi Sad’s parks take a whole new look duting the winter
Nightlife
33
Tamburitsa, Wine & Clubbing
What to see
35
Petrovaradin Fortress
Mail & Phones
41
Getting around
42
Heaven on Earth for cyclists
Belgrade
44
Lifestyle Directory
46
Gifts & Souvenirs
Maps&Index City centre map Country map Index & Street register
48 50 51
Even statues are enchanted by Petrovaradin Fortress
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
January - June 2012
4
Foreword To most foreigners, Serbia’s second city of Novi Sad is synonymous with one thing and one thing only, the annual Exit Festival. While Exit is undoubtedly one of Europe’s foremost music events - both in terms of the level and diversity of the artists it attracts, as well as its truly unique venue at Petrovaradin Fortress - the city and surrounding area have more to offer than arguably anywhere else in Serbia or even the wider region. Novi Sad’s position at one of the continent’s true crossroads and history as a multinational commercial and transit centre has left it endowed with historical and cultural sights that even much larger cities have difficulty matching. From the imposing fortress on the opposite bank to the churches representing numerous denominations throughout the old town’s exceedingly pleasant pedestrian zone to several unheralded but noteworthy museums and art galleries, Novi Sad has much to boast about. And within easy driving, or cycling, distance there the monasteries of Fruška Gora and the inviting Salaši tourist farms. In January of the city will also be jointly host one the most important sporting events that Serbia has ever seen: the 2012 EHF Euro Handball Championship - see the Culture and Events section for more details about the event and a full schedule of the matches. As always we welcome any and all feedback from our readers, be it on Facebook, Twitter or even old-fashioned email.
Cover story Although it is only an hour’s drive north of the capital of B el gra d e, N ovi Sa d benefits from much milder weather than its southern neighbour, as evidenced by the abundance of flowers around the city come early springtime.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Novi Sad In Your Pocket Matice srpske 3a, Beograd tel. +381 11 4140 965, +381 11 4140 970 Fax. +381 11 3423 498 office@bginfobox.rs www.inyourpocket.com ©Bg Info Box CIP - Katalogizacija u publikaciji Narodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd ISSN 1820 - 8711 COBISS.SR-ID 149764876
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Europe In Your Pocket
In Your Pocket is Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced travel guides, producing almost four million guides per year. With print guides to more than 50 cities across the continent, travellers ask for In Your Pocket guides by name: they trust our content and our flawless levels of accuracy. In Your Pocket remains committed to its founding aim of covering the world with well researched and well written city guides. This year we have already launched a new guide to Odesa, and will be launching new guides in Glasgow, Sarajevo and Vienna. If you think that you can contribute, and think you have what it takes to publish your own In Your Pocket guide, get in touch with us at pocketmycity@inyourpocket.com.
Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Editorial Contributors Layout Research Photos BG Info Box, TONS Gallery, Exit Maps Intersistem kartografija, BG
Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Novi Sad In Your Pocket. Maps copyright Bg Info Box. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editor’s note Sales & Circulation General Manager Sales & Circulation BG Info Box Cover photo TONS Gallery Printed by Politika a.d. Published 2 times per year 10,000 copies
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
foreword Free Downloads
Editorial disclaimer
There’s far more to In Your Pocket than this print version of our latest guide. We print guides in more than 70 cities across Europe, and In Your Pocket offers the vast majority of them for free download, in PDF, at our website. A number of guides are now also available as post-PDF, iPaper documents. Just visit our website at inyourpocket.com for all our available downloads.
Please note that all decisions regarding the selection and categorisation of hotels, restaurants, bars and other venues contained herein is the sole responsibility of the editor, and in no way reflects the opinion of other contributors, researchers or organisations.
Press Box “Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.” The Guardian “You do not even need to pack a guidebook: just pick up an In Your Pocket when you arrive.” Simon Calder The Independent & LBC Radio “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times
In Your Pocket Video Guides In Your Pocket goes into the movie business... Kind of... Over the past few months we have gradually been putting together some extensive video guides to various In Your Pocket cities, using our own editors, writers and local researchers as presenters. You can see much of our video content embedded on our website at inyourpocket.com, or view all our videos in one place on our YouTube channel: youtube.com/inyourpocket.
“Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on both well-known and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.” The Independent “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.” The Irish Times
inyourpocket.com twitter.com/inyourpocket facebook.com/inyourpocket youtube.com/inyourpocket novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
“With so many European cities now within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks.” The Times “The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have become a European publishing phenomenon.” International Herald Tribune
January - June 2012
5
6
arrivinG in novi saD By plane
The nearest airport is in Belgrade - Nikola Tesla Airport, about 70km away from Novi Sad. The arrivals hall houses car rentals, an exchange office open 24hrs, several ATMs, and there is a currency exchange machine available in Terminal 1. There is no difference in currency exchange rates at the airport and in the city. Jat Airways lost luggage is handled by Su-Port service, tel. 267 63 74, and the lost luggage of other air carriers by Lost & Found airport service, tel. 209 48 54, which will deliver the found luggage to any address in the city. You can call home from a Halo telephone booth, using Halo magnetic cards, available at news stands at the airport. Terminal 2 departure hall features a post office and an internet café, open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. From the airport, you can reach Novi Sad in two ways: getting to Belgrade first and then getting a coach to Novi Sad, (time consuming) or hiring one of Novi Sad taxi operators, whose services you must book beforehand (quick and simple). To get to Belgrade, you can take a Jat Airways shuttle, whose departures coincide with arrivals of that airline, or a public transport bus or you can take a taxi. Ignore the pushy taxi drivers accosting travellers at arrivals hall, because they will rip you off. The best advice would be to call a taxi (ask someone to do it for you) and your taxi will arrive in front of the terminal building in a few minutes. The ride to the Old Town takes about 20 min, and the price should not exceed 15 EUR (except on weekends and public holidays). The number of passengers or luggage should not affect the price of the ride. Some of taxi companies: Lux taxi, tel. (+38111) 303 31 23, Beotaxi, tel. (+38111) 970, Beogradski taxi, tel. (+38111) 9801. Taxi transfer from Nikola Tesla Airport to Novi Sad: Genelex, tel. (+38121)472 24 92. Van service. Seats 8. Advance booking. Price 75€/per van, regardless of number of passengers. Heligon, tel. (+38164)232 08 16, (+38121)633 97 71. Car service. Ride takes one hour. Advance booking. Price 35€/per car, regardless of number of passengers. Pan taxi, tel. (+38163)55 55 30, (+38164)215 55 55. Car service. Ride takes one hour. Advance booking. Price 45€/per car, regardless of number of passengers. If you use low-budget air carriers (such as Easy Jet, Wiz Air, Air Berlin, Sky Europe…) you can fly in to Budapest (capital of neighbouring Hungary, 380km away), and take a taxi, train or coach to Novi Sad. Taxi transfer from Budapest to Novi Sad: Genelex, tel. (+38121)472 24 92. Van service. Seats 8. Advance booking. Price 280€/per van, regardless of number of passengers. Heligon taxi, tel. (+38164)232 08 16, (+38121)633 97 71. Car service. Advance booking. Price 110€/per car, regardless of number of passengers. Pan taxi, tel. (+38163)55 55 30, (+38165)215 55 55. Car service. Advance booking. Price 150€/per car, regardless of number of passengers.
By car
E-75 motorway runs close to Novi Sad, and E-70 motorway is 70km further down towards Belgrade. Foreign drivers in Serbia need international driving license, vehicle registration certificate, and insurance policy. The valid insurance policies are issued by countries signatories to ‘Vehicle Insurance Convention’, and citizens of other countries are required on entering Serbia to buy an insurance policy. Speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Permitted Blood Alcohol Level is 0.5 g/l.
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Street smarts highway - autoput road - put quay - kej bridge - most
street - ulica alley - sokak square - trg boulevard - bulevar
Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987
By train
Novi Sad is one of the stops on international Vienna-BudapestBelgrade-Istanbul route. The Budapest-Novi Sad leg is about 5 hours long. The Railway Station, located not very far from the town centre, offers exchange offices, ATMs, telephone booths. Avoid the taxi sharks waiting on the semicircular driveway in front of the station building and if you want a taxi hail one a little down the street, or go to the taxi rank located on the parking to the left of the driveway. In front of the station building, you will easily find bus stops. Bus line Nº4 will take you to the centre of the town. The Railway Station is located at the beginning of Bulevar B-2, traversing the entire town, so it should be fairly easy to get around with a little help of the map..
By bus
Novi Sad has two bus stations for international travel: the old one – the Central Bus Station located right next to the Railway Nº4 to get to the centre of the town) and the new one - ATP Vojvodina Bus Station at the corner of Sentandrejski put and Put novosadskog partizanskog odreda Streets (a little further away, bus Nº1 runs to the centre of the town). Where you will end up depends on your bus operator. Novi Sad is well served by a nationwide network of bus routes, and there are bus departures to Belgrade every half hour or less until midnight (tickets from 435 till 700 dinars), so you can use all the international routes linking Belgrade to major cities in Europe.
By boat
Sailing the Danube is the most scenic route to Novi Sad. Commercial boats dock at the pier near Varadinski Bridge near the centre of the town. Piers for private yachts and boats: 1,255km - Harbour Captain’s office, tel. (+381) 21 52 66 84, 52 84 57 1,263.5km - Market Tours Information Centre for Nautical Tourism, Kamenjar, tel. (+381) 21 46 84 09 1,257.8km - Liman Marina C-3 (+381) 65 29 27 789
Tourist information Tourist Oraganisation of Novi Sad Ulica Modene 1 C-2, tel. (+381) 21 66 17 343. e-mail: tons@turizamns.rs.com Open 07:30-20:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, Closed Sun. Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 9 C-2, tel. (+381) 21 421 811. e-mail: tons@turizamns.rs.com Open 07:30-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Basics BasiCs Population
Serbia (2011, without Kosovo and Metohija province) 7,120,666, Novi Sad (2011) 335,701. Ethnic composition (2002, without Kosovo and Metohija province): Serbs 82,86%, Hungarians 3,91%, Bosniacks 1,82%, Roma 1,44%, others 9,97%. The official language is Serbian, with Cyrillic being the official script, but the Latin script is equally used. Hungarian, Slovakian and Ruthenian languages and their scripts are also in official use in Novi Sad.
National holidays 1-2 January - New Year’s Days 7 January - Christmas (Orthodox) 15-16 February - Statehood Day in Serbia 22-25 April - Easter (Orthodox, from Good Friday to second day of Easter) 1-2 May - Labour Day 9 May - Victory Day (Commemorative Day) 11 November - Armistice Day
Local time
Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving. When it is noon in Novi Sad it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00 in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow.
Money
The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a ‘Serbian dinar’ dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into 100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are rounded off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1.000, 2.000 and 5.000 dinars. National currency is pegged to Euro. You can change money in a bank or any of the exchange offices dotting the town (they are marked with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Novi Sad will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. You can buy almost all goods and services with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets, kiosks, and paying the parking. Throughout the town, there is a large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h. Cards widely acceptable in Novi Sad are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced to Serbian market, and a rather limited number of shops and ATMs will accept it. lends his name to Novi Sad’s pedestrian street
Smoking
Orthodox Christianity is the major religion. Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important religious communities are Muslim, Catholic and Jewish, and Methodist Evangelical and Reformed communities also have a fair number of followers.
Most people in Novi Sad consider coffee and cigarettes a perfect way to start the day, so non-smokers may be in for something of a shock. While in theory the city has recently begun enforcing a smoking ban similar to those in many EU countries, in practice it will likely be sometime before a majority of restaurants, bars and clubs are actually smokefree. However, the smoking ban is more or less respected in public premises (ie banks, post offices, hospitals, etc).
Geography
Health
Religion
Serbia covers an area of 88,361km2. It has land borders with Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The planina). The Danube flows 588km through Serbia, the Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian river is Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence of Western Morava (308km) and Southern Morava (295km). Novi Sad lies on the Danube River
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals are professional and reliable, and you need not worry about their skills if you should get ill. The worrisome part are poor maintenance of state run hospitals, which is a consequence of insufficient funds, and the red tape involved in hospital admission. If you have a minor health problem, you are well advised to visit a private practice so as to avoid an agonizing wait.
Local laws & Police
You will be required to declare money (including travellers’ cheques) in excess of €10,000 (or equivalent in other currencies) that you bring into Serbia. Prostitution and use of
January - June 2012
7
BasiCs
8
drugs are illegal, so try and stay out of trouble, and anyway, being a foreigner, you may not be able to spot out plainclothes police officers. Police in full riot gear are a regular sight at football matches, and that should not alarm you.
Market values
Homosexuality
McDonald’s Big Mac 1kg of beef 10 eggs Loaf of white bread Snickers bar Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket
A public display of homosexual affection is unacceptable in Serbia. Declared homosexuals are tolerated as long as they don’t show their affections in the street, which could provoke an aggressive reaction from an onlooker. There are no gay clubs in Novi Sad, so they go to ‘straight’ clubs. There are gay/lesbian associations, for more info visit www. gay-serbia.com
Exchange rates (on Jan 8, 2012.): US$1 = 82.46, €1 = 105.62, UK£1 = 127.34 220din. 530din. 120din. 50din. 55din. 50din. 170din. 50din.
€2.20 €5.32 €1.21 €0.50 €0.55 €0.50 €1.71 €0.50
Visas
If you are a citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA, Israel, Japan, Russia, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Republic of Korea, you can enter Serbia without a visa and may stay in the country for 90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they will automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of
Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs in Belgrade, Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. 306 82 68 or Novi Sad Town Police (Department for Foreigners) BBB, Bulevar kralja Petra I 11, tel. 488 40 00.
Toilets
Public toilets in Novi Sad are hard to find. The existing ones are fairly decent and can be found next to the Town Hall on Kralja Aleksandra Street, in Dunavski Park, at Sports and Business Centre Vojvodina on Sutjeska Street C-2 and at bus and train stations, open 06:00-20:00. If the need to go comes on whilst you are strolling round the town, you can use the toilet in the nearby café or restaurant.
Safety
Novi Sad is a fairly safe place. There is not a single part of the town where a girl should not walk on her own in the middle of the night. You may come across stray dogs, but they are generally minding their own business and not giving anyone a trouble.
Disabled travellers
Most hotels, restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to disabled patrons and hardly any offers toilet facilities for the disabled.
Temperature (celsius) Rainfall (mm)
Climate 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
rain
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Jul
Avg
temperature
Sep
Okt
Nov
Dec
Trg Slobode is the place to be form many Novi Sad’s festivities
Guided tours Novi Sad Astra Tours
tel. (+381) 21 63 50 960, astratours@neobee.net, www.astratours.rs Bonvoyage Kralja Aleksandra 14, tel. (+381) 21 66 21 244, office@bonvoyage.co.rs, www.bonvoyage.co.rs D.R Tours Bulevar cara Lazara 79b, tel. (+381) 21 466 601, drtours@eunet.rs, www.drtours.co.rs Dunavski rafting Ribarsko ostrvo bb, tel. (+381) 21 62 96 10, office@dunavskirafting.com, www.dunavskirafting.com Go Travel tel. (+381) 21 66 17 050, info@gotravel.rs, www.gotravel.rs Karpati tel. (+381) 21 427 117, karpati@eunet.rs, www.karpati.co.rs Kompas Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 15, tel. (+381) 21 522 528, kompas@eunet.rs, www.kompasnovisad.com Market tours Bulevar Cara Lazara 55, tel. (+381) 21 636 76 12 Magelan corporation C-2, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 472 40 88, 662 48 23 Panacomp Bulevar Cara Lazara 96, tel. (+381) 21 466 075, info@panacomp.net, www.panacomp.net
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
history 4500 BC First settlement established in the area of the present Petrovaradin Fortress. 3000 BC First wooden fortifications erected around the settlement. 6th century Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans. Slavs embrace Christianity in 9th century. 1247 Hungary builds a fortress at the site of the present Petrovaradin Fortress. 1526 Fortress occupied by Ottoman Turkey. 1687 Fortress occupied by Austrians. 1692 Petrovaradin Fortress construction begins. On the opposite bank of the Danube river, at the location of the present Novi Sad, a settlement springs up, composed of Serbs, Jews, Greece and Germans, as non-Catholics were banned from residing within the limits of the Fortress’ Lower Town. The settlement was initially called Raitzenstadt (Serb Town) and Petrovaradinski šanac (Petrovaradin Ditch). 1703 The first Serbian National School opens in Novi Sad. 1748 Affluent Serbs start raising money and buy for Novi Sad the status of the free royal city from Maria Theresia, Queen of Hungary and other territories. Maria Theresia renames the town as Neoplanta (Latin), Uj-Videgh (Hungarian), Novi Sad (Serbian). 1820 Novi Sad has a population of 20,000. It is a cultural and political centre of Serbs, who do not have their own national state at the time. Poets hail it as the Athens of Serbia. Almost every Serbian novelist, poet, jurist and publicist of note at the end of 19th century and at the beginning of 20th century live or work in Novi Sad some time of their career. 1848 Hungarians demand national rights and autonomy within the Austrian Empire. Confronted with new Hungarian authorities and wishing to express their own national individuality, Serbs in their turn proclaim Serbian Vojvodina (Serbian Duchy). Hungarian government replies by use of force. In 1849, the Hungarian army located on the Petrovaradin fortress shells and ravages the town, killing many of its inhabitants. After the defeat of the revolution in 1849, the Austrian Emperor adopts a new constitution, guaranteeing Serbs broader rights and religious freedoms. 1861 Serbian National Theatre, the oldest professional theatre among the South Slavs, is founded in Novi Sad. 1864 Matica Srpska, the oldest cultural-scientific institution of Serbia, is moved from Budapest to Novi Sad. 1914 Outbreak of the First World War. Petrovaradin Fortress serves as prison for arrested Serbs and POWs. 1918 Following the defeat of Austria-Hungary, Army of the Kingdom of Serbia enters Novi Sad. Grand Assembly of Serbs, Bunjevci, and other nations of Vojvodina in Novi Sad proclaims the union of Vojvodina region with the Kingdom of Serbia. Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state - Yugoslavia. 1929 Novi Sad becomes the capital of the Danube Banovina, a province of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. 1934 King Aleksandar of Yugoslavia visits Marseille in a bid to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany and is assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. 1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis (Germany - Italy - Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-yer-old Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany attacks Yugoslavia on 6th April without declaration of war. The King and the government go into exile. Emergence of two Serbian partisans. Yugoslav territory is divided between Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and Independent State of Croatia. Novi Sad is occupied by Hungarian fascists. 1942 In the course of three days in January, Hungarian fascists conduct a raid in Novi Sad, force more then 1,300 Serbs and Jews out of their homes and kill them. Most of the bodies were thrown into the Danube. 1944 Red Army units and Yugoslav partisans liberate Novi Sad.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
1945 Toll of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among Serbs. Monarchy is abolished, Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed, and Josip Broz Tito is officially installed in power. Most of German population leaves Novi Sad. In the post-war period, Novi Sad becomes the capital of Vojvodina region, grows rapidly and develops into an important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II is born in Claridges Hotel in London. 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics and 2 from Serbian provinces). 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, civil war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Serbia for the first time in his life. 1992 European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia. Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. UN Security Council imposes economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its support to Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia who want to unify with federal Yugoslavia. 1993 The highest hyperin flation in the histor y - a 500,000,000,000 dinar note is printed in Serbia. 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced. 1995 In the aftermath of Croatian war, around 300,000 Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia. 1996 electoral fraud at local elections. 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and Albanians in Kosovo. The NATO forces bomb Serbia for three months, without endorsement of the UN Security Council. during the wars of Yugoslav succession. In June, following a piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find refuge in Serbia. During the 78 days of bombing, Novi Sad is left without all of its three Danube bridges, communications, water, and electricity. in Europe, the second in the world, takes direct hits on four different days, before it finally collapses into the water, hit again by six missiles. Residential areas are cluster bombed several times while its oil refinery is bombarded daily, causing severe pollution and widespread ecological damage. The bombing of the refinery causes fires which burn 50,000 tons of crude oil, enveloping Novi Sad in black smoke 20 0 0 demonstrations over electoral fraud. Relations with European countries and the US improve. 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by State Union is assassinated by a criminal clan. The clearance of the debris, the remains of the bridges destroyed during the NATO strikes, is completed and the Danube again becomes navigable. 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000 Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on remaining Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian churches and monasteries. 2006 State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist. Serbia is again an independent state. 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians about the status of Kosovo. Serbia is offering broad autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence. The international community is divided over this issue. 2008 With support of the USA and some of the EU countries, Albanians from Kosovo and Metohija province of Serbia declare independence from Serbia. The international community is still divided over this issue - some countries have recognised Kosovo independence, some are against
January - June 2012
9
10
history it. Serbian leadership does not want an armed conflict and is striving to prevent the secession of its province through diplomatic and political means. Massive protests are staged throughout Serbia. Around 500,000 people are gathered in Belgrade at peaceful demonstrations and prayer against Kosovo independence, while several hundreds of youngsters demolish and burn the emptied building of the US Embassy.
Political framework
Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament has 250 seats. The MPs are elected for a term of 4 years, the President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most recent parliamentary elections were held in January 2007 and the presidential elections in January 2008. The current G17 Plus and Socialist Party of Serbia (deceased Slobodan major opposition parties are the Serbian Radical Party (the single strongest party in Serbia), Democratic Party of Serbia and Liberal Democratic Party.
One of Serbia's most acclaimed scientific figures was born on 28 May 1879 in the small village of Dalj, which was then part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. He went on to a successful and prolific career in the field of civil engineering before turning his attention to geophysics and gaining international renown for this theories of long-term climate change and the Earth's orbital cycles. After graduating from the prestigious Vienna University of Technology with a degree in civil engineering in 1902, earned a position at the well-known (and tongue-twisting) engineering firm Adolf Baron Pittel Betonbau-Unternehmung in Vienna, where he specialised in the novel use of reinforced concrete and designed various dams, bridges, viaducts, aqueducts and other structures throughout the empire. In 1909, he was offered the chair of the applied mathematics faculty in Belgrade, and eagerly moved back to his ancestral homeland at the age of 30. Not long after he had settled in the Serbian capital, the region became engulfed in the Balkan Wars, followed by World War II, which led to the young scientist's internment by the Austro-Hungarian army in Budapest. Fortunately he was allowed to work in the library of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, where he began pursuing his interest in the study of solar climates and temperatures on first monograph published both in Serbia and Paris. The publication won him considerable recognition in the field and he went on to work with some of the world's most prominent meteorologists and climatologist and further develop his own theories in the 1920s. the Earth's glacial periods (or ice ages) - which are now known as Milankovitch cycles - and the effect of solar radiation as a result of the Earth's orbit. After his death in Belgrade in 1958, craters on both the moon and Mars were named after him, as well as a minor planet.
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
BGinfoBox Matice srpske 3a, Tel. +381 11 4140 965 www.bginfobox.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Culture & events EHF Euro 2012 Handball Championship
15 -29 January SPENS www.ehf-euro.com +381 11 262 14 50 S e r b i a i s h os ti n g t h e 2 01 2 E H F E u ro H a n d b a l l Championship from 15-29 January, with the Group C preliminary round matches taking place in Novi Sad’s SPENS centre. While Group B may not include the Serbian team (which is playing its Group A matches in Belgrade), it does feature the defending champions France, as well as the always competitive teams from Hungary, Spain and Russia, guaranteeing that there will be some exciting hard-fought matches early on. Always near the top of the world rankings, the Serbian team may not be the odds on favourites to win the event, perennial German powerhouse THW Kiel - says that anything short of a medal should be considered a failure for the home team, although he did realistically stop short of guaranteeing outright victory. Serbian accomplished player during his 10-year international the home crowd advantage will definitely help propel the team to a strong showing. If you have a chance to make it to Belgrade later in the month, the semifinals are scheduled for Friday, 27 January, while the finals will take place two days later on 29 January, both at Belgrade Arena. And as Europe is widely regarded as home to the best handball in the world, the tournament will likely provide a preview of the top competition at the 2012 Olympics in London later in the year - at much cheaper prices! Tickets for matches in Novi Sad begin at only 800 RSD (or a bit less than
€8) and range in price up to 6000 RSD for court-side seats, and up to 20,000 RSD for the full VIP treatment. Group A Belgrade 15 January 18:15 Poland vs Serbia 15 January 20:15 Denmark vs Slovakia 17 January 18:15 Slovakia vs Poland 17 January 20:15 Serbia vs Denmark 19 January 18:15 Poland vs Denmark 19 January 20:15 Serbia vs Slovakia Group B Niš 15 January 17:20 Germany vs Czech Republic 15 January 19:30 Sweden vs Fyr Macedonia 17 January 18:15 Fyr Macedonia vs Germany 17 January 20:15 Czech Republic vs Sweden 19 January 18:15 Germany vs Sweden 19 January 20:15 Czech Republic vs Fyr Macedonia Group C Novi Sad 16 January 18:15 France vs Spain 16 January 20:15 Hungary vs Russia 18 January 18:15 Russia vs France 18 January 20:15 Spain vs Hungary 20 January 18:15 Spain vs Russia 20 January 20:15 France vs Hungary Group D Vršac 16 January 18:10 Norway vs Slovenia 16 January 20:10 Croatia vs Iceland 18 January 18:10 Slovenia vs Croatia 18 January 20:10 Iceland vs Norway 20 January 18:10 Iceland vs Slovenia 20 January 20:10 Croatia vs Norway
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
January - June 2012
11
12
Culture & events In previous years, Novi Sad Spring has been a place where representatives of the public, business, local government and civil society (both domestic and international) meet to discuss environmental protection, nature conservation, horticulture and other related fields.
February
2 - 4 February 2012 Beekeeping Fair SPENS, www.pcelarins.org.rs Exhibition and sales of honey, beekeeping equipment and wine along with a cultural and artistic programme organized by the folklore association Veliko Kolo. On Saturday, lectures are held on various topics of interest in contemporary apiculture. 11 -12 February 2012 Klare Feješ Mire 39, Rumenka Held in the town of Rumenka, this two-day festival celebrates everyone’s favourite flakey Serbian pastry, the pita, and includes a competitive programme as well as exhibitions of folk handicrafts and antiques, and the sale of wine, brandy, sausages and other traditional food products. 21 February 2012 Old City Centre www.muzejvojvodine.org.rs Novi Sad’s official carnival celebrations are organised by the Museum of Vojvodina, and are centered around a parade of masked participants through the old town from Trg Slobode to the the museum, where awards are given for the best masks. Categories include kids, adults and most authentic masks. 24 February - 4 March 2012
25 March 2012 www.marathon.org.rs The NIS International Half Marathon is a traditional circular race course with a total length of 21.0975 kilometers. The route is traffic-free and passes through the urban part of town and along the banks of the Danube. The race starts from Trg Slobode, and several other events will be held at the same time, including the always entertaining baby crawl.
April
18 - 20 April 2012 Cultural Centre of Novi Sad, Kralja Petra I 26/I www. kcns.org.rs The International Festival of Prose was founded with the intention of taking literature back to its roots, namely, live and direct contact with the audience. During the festival, eminent local and foreign writers read their works in public spaces, and also go to high schools and colleges to create a dialogue with pupils and students on jointly selected topics.
Arena Cineplex, www.fest.rs Novi Sad’s International Film Festival (or just FEST) will take place this year on 40th time. The first FEST was held between 8-16 January 1971 under the slogan “Brave new world” and was opened by the film “Mesh” by Robert Altman. Since its inception, FEST has always had one major and several supporting programmes, which includes numerous publications, exhibitions, symposiums and other events that are held during the festival.
6 - 14 April 2012
March
14 - 21 April 2012
20 - 24 March SPENS; www.pokretgorana.org.rs Novi Sad Spring is a traditional event with nearly 200 exhibitors in the field of horticulture, beekeeping, organic agriculture and traditional crafts, which annually attracts some 70,000 visitors over five days. The event is of great ecological and educational significance, as it helps promote a more responsible attitude towards nature and the environment, and raise ecological awareness of citizens of all ages.
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Pozorišni Trg What better way to celebrate Easter than a full week of wine tasting? Visitors can try - and purchase at reasonable prices - wine directly from individual producers, most of whom have vineyards in the nearby hills of Fruška Gora. Stalls selling handicrafts and other souvenirs from the Vojvodina region will also be present.
centar.rs In recent years, this boys and girls 16-and-under tennis tournament has become one of the most competitive events in southeast Europe. It’s a great opportunity for visitors to catch the best up-and-coming players from Serbia and abroad before they become household names.
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Culture & events
23 - 30 April 2012
19 May 2012
www.muzickaomladina.org This international festival of classical music is held each year in the month of April, and is one of the most important events organised by the Jeunesses Musicales. The programme usually features quality interpretations of well-known pieces from both Serbia and abroad.
www.nocmuzeja.rs While Museum Nights are a common occurrence throughout the world, in Serbia they are taken to the extreme with museums opening their doors to the public from 18:00 - 02:00. First held in Belgrade in 2005, Novi Sad’s museums and galleries began participating two years later, and the event is now one of the most exciting on the annual cultural calendar. In addition to viewing permanent and temporary exhibitions, visitors are also treated to various other activities, such as concerts, performances, film screenings and workshops.
28 - 29 April 2012 www.psdzeleznicarns.org.rs This year’s race will be the 35th time that runners have taken to the forested hills of Fruška Gora for a two-day marathon event bringing together tens of thousands of participants. Official paths of different lengths (ranging from an ultramarathon to shorter fun runs) mean that runners of all levels can find a suitable run - with even children as young as pre-school age joining the fun.
25 May - 3 June 2012 Serbian National Theatre, www.pozorje.org.rs Established in 1956 as part of the celebrations marking and 150th anniversary of the birth and 100th anniversary of the death of Pozorje is a permanent festival of Serbian drama.
May
6 May 2012 www.mtbfanatic.org In 2012 the Fruška Gora cycling marathon will celebrate its 20th anniversary. Control points mark out the paths of three routes of different lengths through the forests, and also provide refreshments, water, fruit and chocolate to participants. 9 May 2012 Old City Centre, www.skcns.org Although Serbia is not yet an EU member state, that doesn’t stop Novi Sad from celebrating Europe Day on 9 May (which commemorates the signing of the Schuman Declaration in 1950 and the symbolic founding of the European community). This year’s event has an varied programme, which includes an openair exhibition of posters and photographs on the theme of Borders Within Us, some classical music and a large concert on Trg Slobode with bands from all over Europe. 18 - 20 May 2012 www.cycling.rs The race is listed in the calendar of the UCI World Cycling Union and is the only international junior cycling race in the territory of Serbia and the Balkans.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
25 - 26 May 2012 SKCNS Factory, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5 www.skcns. org. Launched by the Student Cultural Centre of Novi Sad back in 2008, To Be Punk has the distinction of being the first punk festival in Serbia. With an aim of redefining and enriching the music scene in the country, the festival will host some dozen bands from both Serbia and abroad over two days. Tickets can be purchased in advance at the Mongoose music shop.
January - June 2012
13
14
Culture & events
26 May 2012 Štrand, www.fasplet.com. The Novi Sad Folklore Festival (NFF) aims to bring together a number of ensembles from the country and folk music scene, in order to preserve, present and promote the region’s traditional folk traditions, music and games to a wider audience. Long known as the ‘Serbian Athens’ and cultural capital of the country, Novi Sad plays an important and unique role keeping alive such traditions.
June
1 - 3 June 2012 Pozorište Mladih, www.ccfns.org.rs. Sponsored by the French Cultural Institute, this French language theatre festival brings together some 300 children between the ages of 7 and 14 for three days of activities, workshops and performances. Beginning with a parade through the streets of Novi Sad, the first two days take place at the grand Youth Theatre, while the third and final days is held at the city beach Štrand. 1 - 10 June 2012 City Centre, www.zmajevedecjeigre.org.rs. The largest festival of creativity for children in southeast Europe and the oldest festival of its kind in all of Europe, the so-called Dragons Games include a multimedia programme for children and young people that promotes all aspects of artistic creativity. First half of June Vojvodina Brigade 57, Kovilj, www.kovilj.rs. This prestigious competition to choose the best traditional brandy - or rakija from the Vojvodina region has taken place annually in thevillage of Kovilj since 1996. Known for their especially strong aroma
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
and bold taste, the region is widely regarded as producing some of the best brandy in the country, with the most common flavours being mulberry, plum, apricot and quince. In addition to the brandy competition, the event also includes a diverse cultural and artistic programme that highlights attractions such as monasteries, hunting and fishing, as well as a separate competition for strudel and other traditional foods. 15 - 19 June 2012 Various Venues www.heartsinharmony.rs. Hearts in Harmony Novi Sad is innovative musical event consisting of workshops for people with disabilities who are able to participate with the assistance of partially automated musicians (ie robots built for just that purpose). Hearts in Harmony is new initiative of the European Choir Federation Europa Cantat, with whose participation the festival is organized in cooperation with the NGO Faith, love, hope. Serbian conductor Miodrag Blizanac will oversee participant from five countries (Hungary, Germany, Slovakia, Croatia and Spain), who will give a large number of public performances. 15 -17 June 2012 Štrand Beach, www.velikokolo.org. As the somewhat uninspiring name suggests, this is indeed yet another festival devoted to children’s games and activities - this time marking the official end of the school year and beginning of summer holidays. Children (and adults) from as far abroad as Germany, Italy and Greece participate in a full programme of events at the city beach.
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Culture & events Novi Sad Fair
Automation, Robotics and Mechatronics Fair 1 - 3 February 2012 A unique event in this part of Europe, this specialised fair (IFAM) of automation, robotics and mechatronics is mainly a business to business event, with a attracts product managers, developers, designers, production managers, technical directors, entrepreneurs and others. It is held concurrently with a trade fair for Industrial and Professional Electronics (INTRONIKA). Art Expo 1 - 6 March 2012 Growing each year, the Art Expo brings together artists and art galleries, art associations and art collectors, as well as dealers and collectors of antiques and the general public. In addition to exhibitions the events includes symposiums, presentations by cultural institutions and performances by artists. International Book Fair 1 - 6 March 2012 The Novi Sad Book Fair brings together participants from the fields of literature, publishing, education and media, and promotes among other things new fiction, professional and scientific literature, text books, foreign languages and children’s literature through a series of meetings, discussions and presentations. The most important part of the fair is the International Education Fair 1 - 3 March 2012 The International Education Fair in Novi Sad Fair is a place where individuals, institutions and organizations discuss innovations in education in Serbia. It provides the opportunity to showcase their programmes at state and private universities, public and private colleges, higher secondary and primary schools, academies, national universities, language schools, computer schools, open universities, scientific and professional institutions. Visitors can get acquainted with the activities of student associations, information centers, youth co-operatives, the agency for training and adult education, publishing houses and institutes.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
International Plastic and Industrial Rubber Fair 21 - 23 March 2012 A specialised fair of plastics and rubber, mainly attended by those interested in furthering business to business relations, namely manufacturers and suppliers of exposed and semifinished plastic and rubber products. Fair of Metallurgy 21 - 23 March 2012 A specialised fair of metallurgy, casting and tools. International Boat Show 26 - 29 April 2012 In addition to boat manufacturers and their representatives, presentations will be made of equipment for yachts, sailing boats, stable and outboard engines, equipment and marine vessels, diving and fishing, and clothing for sailors. Boat lovers will have the opportunity to meet with others interested in the development of nautical tourism, and it will greatly contribute to an attractive exhibition space. Moto Bike Expo 26 - 29 April 2012 The unveiling of new models, the exhibition of superior quality products,and a diverse programme dedicated to motorcycles, bicycles and related equipment has made the fair a musts-see event. Attendees have the opportunity to see models of motorcycles and bicycles of almost all types and classes, motorcycle equipment, spare parts and products supporting activities. International Agricultural Fair 12 - 18 May 2012 The annual agricultural fair is the largest fair event in all of Serbia and one of the largest of its kind in Europe (it’s also easily the second biggest event in Novi Sad after Exit, so booking accommodation well in advance is a must). It gathers the most important companies in the areas of agribusiness, agricultural production, mechanization and livestock. Another highlight is the forum for farmers and others in the agricultural business to present their products. The event has became a trademark of the Novi Sad Fair (the oldest fairgrounds in Serbia), as well as a prestigious place for the presentation and development of agribusiness.
January - June 2012
15
16
Culture & events
16 - 23 June 2012
25 June - 3 July 2012
Various Venues, www.cinemacity.org . Each year Cinema City hosts an ambitious film, music and media programme in Novi Sad. During the festival over 150 films will be shown, including more than 100 premiers, some of which will be competing for awards in 20 different categories. In addition to the general public, the festival is attended by some 500 accredited guests and an additional 300 or so young film makers.
www.kcns.org.rs. The International Festival of Alternative and New Theatre (or INFANT as it is known) has become an important meeting point for the creators of theatrical arts to watch, share and discuss newest happenings in the field of theatre. This is the only festival of its type in the country, and is authentic and highly respected in other European countries among artists and critics who follow the latest trends in the field of theatrical creativity.
20 June - 20 September 2012 Petrovaradin Fortress, www.babyexit.org, www. festivaloptimizma.net. Organised by Interart - which promotes the development of contemporary art in Serbia - Active Summer is a three-month long series of creative workshops and arts colonies based on the subject of the fortress on the Danube. The programme includes many activities for children and young people in a wide variety of artistic fields.
29 June 2012 Various Venues. Danube Day is an integral part of the cooperation of the Danube countries, and is celebrated in all thirteen states party to the International Convention for the Protection of the Danube in order to raise awareness about the need to preserve the river for as many citizens as well asto be appealed to the rational use of water resources. Celebration of Danube Day combines 80 million inhabitants of the Danube basin countries, different cultures, lifestyles and understanding of the river.
There’s no better place to celebrate International Day of the Danube than in Novi Sad!
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Culture & events
Originally founded in 1861, The Serbian National Theatre was rebuilt in 1981
Theatres SNP - Serbian National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet)
C-2, Pozorišni trg 1, tel. (+381) 21 662 14 11, www. snp.org.rs
Ujvideki Szinhaz
tel. (+381) 21 52 53 88, www.uvszinhaz.co.rs Brod teatar Novosadskog Sajma 48, Novi Sad tel. (+381) 63 865 5083, info@brodteatar.rs, www. brodteatar.rs Teatar 34 Ignjata Pavlasa 8, Novi Sad, tel. (+381) 21 521 884, 520 534, pmladih@sbb.rs, www. pozoristemladih.co.rs Youth Theatre (children’s theatre and evening stage) C-2, Ignjata Pavlasa 8, tel. (+381) 21 52 58 84, www.pozoristemladih.rs
09:00 - 17:00, 09:00 - 14:30
Association of Artists of Vojvodina C-2, Mihajla Pupina 9, tel. (+381) 21 52 49 91, Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00
Forma
44 81. Open 09:00 - 17:00
Zlatno oko
90 75. Open 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sat, Sun
G a l l e r y o f P h o to C - 2 , C i n e m a a n d V i d e o
Jadran C-2, Poštanska 5, tel. (+381) 21 528 830 KCNS,
(+381) 21 528 780, fkvsv@nadlanu.com, Open 10.00 – 20.00, Sat 11.00 – 14, Closed Sun Gallery of the Army Club C-2, Beogradski kej 9, tel. (+381) 21 52 78 92. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00 Little Art Parlour of the Cultural Centre C-2, Mihajla Pupina 11, tel. (+381) 21 52 51 20. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Renata C-2, Trg Mladenaca 8, tel. (+381) 21 662 15 00. Open 10:00 - 13:00 and 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun City`s Sales Gallery C-2, Zmaj Jovina 22, tel. (+381) 21 42 16 51. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00
Art galleries
Museums
(+381) 21 489 90 00. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 20:00, Closed Mon, Sun Commemorative Collection of Pavle Beljanski C-2, Trg Galerija 2, tel. (+381) 21 472 99 66, kontakt@pavlebeljanski.museum, www. pavle-beljanski.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Tue C-2, Vase Stajica 1, tel. (+381) 21 52 04 67. Open 09:00 - 17:00 SANU - Platoneum Gallery , tel. (+381) 21 42 02 10. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat. 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Prometej Gallery, Trg Marije Trandafil 11, tel. (+381) 21 422 245, Open 07:00 - 15:00 D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress - Studio 61, tel. (+381) 21 43 35 88. Open
tel. (+381) 21 64 32 055, 64 33 613, 64 33 145, muzgns@eunet.rs, www.museumns.rs Museum of Vojvodina Dunavska 35-37, tel. (+381) 21 420-566, 526-555 Museum of Agriculture in Kulpinu tel. (+381) 21 786 -266, muzejvojvodine1@nscable.net, www. muzejvojvodine.org.rs Theatre Museum of Vojvodina Kralja Aleksandra 5, tel. (+381) 21 6613 322, 6614 720, info@pmv.org. rs, www.pmv.org.rs
Cinemas
Arena Cineplex C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 3, tel. (+381) 21 447 690, www.arenacineplex.com
Gallery of Matica Srpska C-2, Trg Galerija 1, tel.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
City Museum of Novi Sad
Museum of contemporary art of Vojvodina
Dunavska 37, tel. (+381) 21 66 13 526, 66 13 897, www.msuv.org NIS Petrol Museum Narodnog fronta 12, tel. (+381) 21 481 1111, www.nis.rs
January - June 2012
17
18
Culture & events Nikola Tesla
Why EXIT
Born in the small Serbian village of Smiljan in what was then the Austrian Empire, Nikola Tesla (1856 - 1943) went on to become one of the most prolific inventors of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and revolutionise the field of electromagnetism. After originally studying electrical engineering at the Austrian Polytechnic in Graz in 1875, Tesla held a variety of positions in the cities of Maribor, Prague and Budapest, and was briefly the chief electrician of Hungary's first telephone system before moving to France to work for the Continental Edison Company in 1882. Tesla moved to the US in 1884, and was charged with completely redesigning Edison's inefficient direct current generators, but left the company after less than two years over a disagreement about pay. This led to a lifelong feud between the two inventors and the so-called War of Currents, which was won by Tesla's system of alternating current in the following decade. In 1891, Tesla established his own laboratory in New York, and went on to not only pioneer modern day electrical engineering, but also contributed greatly to the fields of wireless technology, robotics, computer science and theoretical physics. Despite his unparalleled scientific contributions, during his lifetime Tesla's genius was often overshadowed by his somewhat eccentric personality and penchant for seemingly outrageous (although sometimes entirely true) claims about future scientific and technological advancements. In particular, his later attempts to develop a directed-energy weapon, referred to in the press as a 'death ray', contributed greatly to his image as the proto-typical mad scientist. After his death in 1943, Tesla's ashes were taken to Belgrade, and have resided in a gold-plated spherical urn at the Nikola Tesla Museum (p.49) since 1957.
“One of the best festival gigs that I have ever done. Amazing venue, thumping sound system and great crowd” John Digweed “I’ve never even dreamed that the hospitality and casualness of these people would make me stay in Novi Sad for much longer then I’d planned. I’ve never stayed anywhere after the gig, by the way.” Dave de Rose, Moloko “It’s the best place I’ve ever performed at!” Lottie “Serbia was fantastic we all really enjoyed it - the audience was amazing and it was the best show on the tour so far.” Billy Idol “Exit Festival was great, amazing night, played from 3am till 6.30 when the sun came up and to see so many people in a moat was something else.” Carl Cox “Exit festival was excellent... I had a really good time playing. The site, the crowd, everything was really good. Look forward to go back next year”. Hernan Cattaneo “It was the best festival we played this year” Liam Howlett, The Prodigy “We didn’t have a clue about what to expect... and it was incredible...” Nick Halam, Stereo MC’s “The only thing I can say about EXIT 06, it was PERFECT! Very professional, amazing sound system .......and....... need I say more? Junior Jack “wow - exit - what a festival! great energy, great understanding of the music and a great place. very impressed.” Giles Peterson / Radio 1 www.exitfest.org
Venues Ticket agents GIGSTIX Kralja Aleksandra 12, Pariski magazin,
tix@gigstix.com, www.gigstix.com, tel. (+381) 21 482 48 16. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10.00 15.00, Closed Sun. Biletservis C-2, IPS Bazar Store, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. (+381) 21 423-810. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 488 22 22, www.spens.rs
Synagogue B-2, Jevrejska 11 The Name of Mary Parish Church (The Cathedral) C-2, Trg slobode
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
EXIT FESTIVAL 2012eXit Festival 2012
46
EXIT 2012
Even in Europe's increasingly crowded summer festival circuit, Exit is one of the few names that manages to stand out from the pack - and for good reason. Held every July since 2000, the festival calls Novi Sad's magnificent Petrovaradin Fortress home. Perched high above the Danube, the 300 year-old fortress is a protected heritage site and provides a setting unlike any other for the some 200,000 festival-goers who flock to northern Serbia for four days each summer. Exit also has the added benefit of taking place in a major urban area - Novi Sad is second largest city after Belgrade, with nearly 400,000 inhabitants - meaning that if camping out isn't your thing, you can book a proper hotel room just across the river and take advantage of everything else the city has to offer. Of course at the centre of it all is the music, and Exit's line up is second to none. An eclectic mix of performers from nearly every genre imaginable will be competing for the attention of audiences at seven main stages and almost two dozen smaller ones. Last year's headlining acts included Arcade Fire, Pulp, Jamiroquai, Portishead, Grinderman, MIA, Underworld, Bad Religion, Santagold and Beirut among many many others. We've done our best to include all of the essential info here, but for a complete run-down of everything happening and everyone performing check out the official festival website at exitfest.org, and for more info on where to sleep and eat and what to do in Novi Sad see our own guide at novi_sad.inyourpocket.com.
Info
Every bit of information that you could possibly want to know about Exit can be found on the multi-lingual, user-friendly and highly interactive official site: exitfest.org. Including the full line ups of artists, ticket sales, photos and video from previous festivals, travel info, site and city maps, and tons more. Tickets: 4-day tickets are £91 + a £6 booking fee. VIP passes, which give you access to several VIP-only are also available. All tickets can be bought online with a credit card or PayPal and are issued as eTickets so there's no need to wait for them to arrive in the post. If previous years are any indication, the standard 4-day passes will sell out at least a couple weeks prior to the festival, so waiting till the last minute is not the best idea. Also, this year the organisers have decided to all festival goers with special wristbands upon their arrival, so there's no need to worry about losing any tickets. Camping: For many people, Exit Village, the official onsite festival camp ground, is just as much or even more of the reason of attending than the music itself. The area also includes access
Niš In Your Pocket novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
to various workshops, courses and other entertainment. Last year entrance was £25 per person for the duration of the event. Arriving: Novi Sad is located a short one hour drive north of Belgrade, and easily reached from the capital by frequent bus and train connections. With a noticeable lack of budget airlines compared with other major European capitals, Belgrade is not the cheapest city to fly into, however, Exit's organisers have partnered with JAT Airways, Serbia's flagship carrier, to offer special discounted return tickets from over 30 cities across the continent from Moscow to London to Malta. See www.fly2exit. org for more details and availability.
Stages
Main Stage: This is the largest festival stage with a capacity of 35,000 people - it's the heart of Exit. Dance Arena: The second largest festival stage which as on numerous occasions been proclaimed as the best dance arena in the whole of Europe. It is the Mecca for all true clubbers and it has a capacity of 25,000 people. Fusion Stage: The second largest concert stage with a capacity of 10,000 visitors the Converse Fusion Stage is reserved for not only the best performers from the region, but from the world as well. Suba Stage: Right above the river, Suba Stage has always been a safe haven of good fun and new experiences. Named for one of Novi Sad's most renowned musicians, Mitar Subotic Suba, the stage is dedicated to all those who expand musical horizons, opening new frontiers and connecting different worlds. Explosive Stage: The most extreme of all the stages in the festival, this year Explosive Stage is presenting bands from all over the world. It's the place where a hard sound is bred. Metal, HC, Punk. If you like guitars and an uncompromising sound find your place among the 5000 Explosive fans. East Point Roots & Flower Stage: An alternative to the general noise and madness of the rest of the festival, this stage offers a more relaxed natural atmosphere. Positive Vibration Reggae Stage: The most laid back of all the stages, this is the place to come for some seriously good vibrations. HappyNoviSad Stage: As in previous years, this stage showcases some of the best cutting edge and up and coming performers in the world of electronica. Elektrana: The place for people with sophisticated taste in music, ready to experiment, explore and search for new musical treasures. For four nights electric waves will emanate from synths, rhythm machines, vocoders, vinyls and laptops.
nis.inyourpocket.com January - June 2012
19
20
The true hedonistic experience of Vojvodina
Salaš 137 Information and reservations: +381 21 71 45 01 or +381 21 71 45 05 www.salas137.rs January - June 2012
Where to stay Upmarket
Symbol key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
6 Animal friendly
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
The range of accommodation on offer in Novi Sad is fairly broad and will fit every budget. Most rooms are good value for the money, but note that most hotels will double their rates during the International Agricultural Fair in May and the famed EXIT Festival. Serbia is still a heaven for smokers and non-smokers will be hard pressed to find non-smoking rooms.
Cream of the crop
Leopold I (+381) 21 488 78 78, fax 488 78 77, office@leopoldns. com, www.leopoldns.com. A luxury hotel with the most exquisite of locations - on top of Petrovaradin Fortress, with a magnificent view of Novi Sad. The rooms and suites on the ground and first floor are decorated in the baroque style, those on the second floor have modern furniture. Rooms for daytime use only are also available at half price. The hotel also features a Havana Club and restaurants with Italian, Asian and Vojvodina style cuisine, whose open terraces overlooking the Danube and the city. 45 rooms and 13 suites (singles €65-75, doubles €7585, suites €110-250). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHDFUCORKGL Park B-2, Novosadskog sajma 35, tel. (+381) 21 488 88 88, w w w.hotelparkns.com, info@hotelparkns. rs. The largest hotel in town, situated near the Novi Sad Fair, surrounded by a large park. The rooms are fitted with modern furniture or with replica period pieces. Most rooms are equipped with hydro massage bath tubs. The hotel offers good service, various facilities, including a wellness centre and the hugely popular night club. Ideal for business travellers. 98 rooms and 58 suites (singles €63-69, doubles €82, suites €89-396). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHDTFCOR6KGL Best Western Prezident B-2, Futoški put 109, tel.
(+381) 21 487 74 44, reservations@prezidenthotel. com, www.prezidenthotel.com. Novi Sad’s only 5-star hotel is a cut above the competition. Opened in 2010, the modern glass façade may look slightly out of place in a largely residential part of the city, but the beautifully designed and furnished interior will dispel any doubts of its fine pedigree. The standard rooms are spacious, while the deluxe rooms could almost be considered suites, and the suites are simply magnificent. The premises include both indoor and outdoor pools, a full fitness centre, several saunas, massage and hair dresser services, and ample parking. The centre is only a short drive or taxi ride away, and the Novi Sad Fairgrounds are conveniently right around the corner. AHDPUR KLFC (G)
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Boutique Hotel Arta Heroja Pinkija 12, (+381) 21 6804 500, office@boutiquehotelarta.rs, www.boutiquehotelarta.rs. Located in a residential neighbourhood to the southwest of the city centre, this small well-run hotel offers a handful of individually designed rooms and comes highly recommended by locals in the know. The personalised attentive service sets it apart from much of the competition, and the onsite bar is cosy place to unwind after a busy day or grab a drink before a night out. Most rooms have twin beds, so couples sure to request one of the doubles when booking. 9 rooms, 2 suites (singles 4985-6025 RSD, doubles 6230-7530 RSD, suites 6025-11,130 RSD). (G) Centar Uspenska 1, (+381) 21 477 6333, office@hotel-centar.rs, www.hotel-centar.rs. Opposite the National Theatre, the unmissable appearance of this ultra-modern building may initially be off-putting to some - personally we quite like it - but don’t let the façade dissuade you. The rooms themselves are actually quite elegant and understated, and range in size between 28 and 35m², dwarfing the suites at some other hotels. Both smoking and non-smoking rooms are available, and there’s even a specially designed room for people with disabilities - a rarity in Serbia. In short, this is the kind of place that sometimes has us wishing we didn’t live in Novi Sad, so we could have an excuse to stay here. 49 rooms, 2 suites (singles €60, doubles €80, suites €80-100). (G) Master 4878 700, office@ahotel-master.com, www.a-hotel-master.com. Located practically inside the fairgrounds, you can’t beat this first rate business hotel if you’re in town for one of the many conferences, fairs or trade shows held next door. The standard rooms have more room than you’ll know what to do with, and extra high ceilings make them seem even larger than they already. The service here is also about as personal, courtesy and professional as you’re likely to find anywhere in Serbia, and the both the madeto-order breakfasts and short but varied room service menu deserve special mention. Prices are lower at the weekends. 54 rooms (singles €46-52, doubles €55-64, suites €62-85, superior rooms €69-93, superior suite €95-110). (G) Panorama B-2, Futoška 1a, tel. (+381) 21 480 18 00, www.hotelpanorama.co.rs, panorama@neobee.net. A small hotel opened in 2006 on the 6th floor of a commercial building, not far from the town centre. Different rooms have different furnishings, but they are all comfortable and wellequipped (each has a DVD home cinema system and a hydro massage shower) and have a nice view of the town. The staff is very friendly and efficient. Apart from breakfast, the hotel does not offer any other services. 8 rooms and 4 suites (singles €45, doubles €55, suites €55-70). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRKLG (G)
Mid-range Elite
488 58 88, office@elitecentar.rs, www.elitecentar.rs. In recent years Serbia has become nearly synonymous with tennis, making a stay at this fine three-star hotel - which is attached to one of the country’s first tennis academies - an attractive option for fans of the sport. Its modern, playfully coloured rooms come in several different classes, and have been built with sportsmen in mind. Weekend packages that include unlimited use of the tennis courts and a post-match massage, as well as the possibility of inexpensively hiring a coach or playing partner, are available at reasonably prices. 45 rooms (singles 4000-6000 RSD, doubles 5000-7000 RSD, apartments 6000-7000 RSD). AHPURKGL
January - June 2012
21
22
Where to stay
In the old town centre, you’ll find that many of the signs are helpfully in both Serbian and English
Gymnas
46 77 10, fax 474 07 04, www.gymnas.rs, gymnas@ neobee.net. Among the best hotels in Novi Sad. Its greatest shortcoming is that the town centre is not exactly at a walking distance from the hotel, but taxi is cheap and this should not be too daunting. The rooms are elegantly furnished and no two rooms are alike. Hotel guests have free access to a fully equipped fitness centre and a sauna. Only breakfast is served, no other meals. 19 rooms and 8 suites (singles €55, doubles €75, triples €95, suites €90-110). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AP HUD FRKGL (G)
Norcev Put Partizanskog Odreda bb, tel. (+381) 21 4800 222, norcev@oiu.co.rs, www.norcev.rs. If a visit to the famed monasteries of Fruška Gora is your primary reason for visiting Novi Sad or if you’re just a fan of beautiful natural settings, then there is no better place to stay than the Norcev hotel and recreational complex located smack in the middle of the mountains. In addition to arranging walking tours of the surrounding countryside, bird watching excursions and trips to the numerous monasteries, the facilities also include a full range of sports activities from an indoor swimming pool and fitness centre to table tennis and chess room. A great choice for active families. 39 rooms and 5 apartments. APURKLFC Novi Sad B-2., tel. (+381) 21 442 511, Bul. Jaše
Situated right across the Central Bus and Railway Stations and well connected to the other parts of the town via public buses network. Standard rooms are nice and clean, not overtly stylish, but quite acceptable for a short stay. Your night’s sleep will be a lot more restful if you request a room not overlooking the street. 103 rooms and 9 suites (singles €57, doubles €68, triples €72,5, suites €85-87). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APDOKL
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Putnik 66 15 555, recepcija@hotelputnik.rs, www.hotelputnik.rs. Another of Novi Sad’s excellent business hotels, Putnik recently underwent major renovations and is now one of the better value accommodation options in the city, especially considering its central location just around the corner from Trg Slobode. In the rooms the furnishings tend to be somewhat uninspired but comfortable enough, and the bathrooms are absolutely enormous. If you’re in town for the weekend, consider booking their special package for two, which includes two nights and re the same owner) for only €90. 77 rooms and 6 apartments (singles €39, doubles €54, apartments €63-72). Sajam B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. (+381) 21 42 02 66, htpsajam@eunet.rs, www.hotelsajam.co.rs. A very decent hotel, situated 2km from the town centre. Its proximity to Novi Sad Fair and peaceful surroundings make it especially suitable for business people. Renovated in 2007, the rooms are light and airy. One of very few hotels in Novi Sad offering non-smoking rooms. 65 rooms and 6 suites (singles €35, doubles €45, suites €4055). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APKGL Vigor (+381) 21 689 44 44, fax 46 81 60, www.hotelvigor.com, office@hotelvigor.com. A new hotel with a modern design, slightly remote from the centre of the town, situated not far from Ribarsko ostrvo. Its well-appointed rooms are bright and cosy, with stylish details, and very nice bathrooms. You may find the LCD TV set a little to high for comfort. Hotel services include laundry, sightseeing-tours upon request and breakfast specially prepared to meet any special health, dietary or religious requirements. 22 rooms and 1 suites (singles €43, doubles €57, triples €70, suites €86). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHRKGL (G) novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Where to stay Hostels
Bela
661 65 94, www.belaladja.com. A popular traditional restaurant, opened in 1852, with rooms for rent. Centrally located, it offers a hostel service, 9 rooms and two shared bathrooms. There are decked out in wood panelling, equipped with cable TV and triples: €14-17). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. Simboli: CC, klima, restoran, pušenje, P. Zlatna greda 15: 14 rooms (doubles, triples, 4-bed dorm, 5-bed dorm: €17). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. APRGL
Epicentar
(+381) 21 674 82 81, hotelbracadrinic@beone.net, www.hotelbracadrinic.com. At a 10 minutes ride from the town centre. The rooms offer the comfort of a goodquality hostel and feature nice bathrooms. The overall impression is that the owners do not have much experience with running a hotel, but are keen to make a mark. It is not ideal for family visits because of the café on the ground floor equipped with slot machines. 20 rooms and 2 suites (singles €41, doubles €49, triples €58, suites €71-89). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRHL
Downtown C-2, Njegoševa 2, tel. (+381) 69 139 77
08, www.hostelnovisad.com. The first hostel in Novi Sad, with downtown location, at the main town square. It offers fine accommodation, great atmosphere, walls boldly painted in bright colours, the occasional queues in front of the bathroom being the only downside. The hostel features a kitchen, free internet access, car/bike parking. 5 rooms (singles €25, doubles €30, 6-bed dorm €11, 8-bed dorm: €10). Prices include VAT. 6RG
Lazin hostel
63 44 37 03, www.lazinhostel.org. Situated in a small downtown street lined with cafés and restaurants. Its fine rooms are arranged in two levels, each with a shared bathroom, kitchen and a common room. The hostel features a bike parking room, free internet and cable TV. 6 rooms and 2 suites (singles €20, doubles €15, 4-bed dorm €13, 6-bed dorm €11, suites €30 ). VAT included. PRL
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Podbara 551 991, hostel.podbara@gmail.com, www.hostel-novisad.com. With three private rooms and one five-bed dorm, Podbara is more like a guest house than a hostel, and all the better for it. Located in a newly built house a 15-minute or so walk north of the old town, the rooms and common areas are quite spacious, and the bright fully-furnished kitchen is a pleasure to cook in. Although it’s one of Novi Sad’s newest hostels, it already gets high marks from guests. 4 rooms (5-bed dorms €10, private doubles €40). Smile
633 70 85, hostel.smile@gmail.com, www.hostelsmile.com. Located in a large block of flats and offices on Novi Sad’s main thoroughfare, Smile is roughly halfway between the bus and train stations and the old town. Formerly a small family apartment, it can either be described as cosy or cramped depending on ones point of view. English may or may not be spoken. 3 rooms (6-bed dorm €10, 4-bed dorm €13, double room €20), all prices are per person.
Sova 52 75 56, kontakt@hostelsova.com, www.hostelsova.com. Easily one of our favourite hostels, not just in Novi Sad or Serbia, but anywhere. The hospitality of the couple that runs the place, Miki and Sanja, is legendary amongst backpackers and budget travellers, and the whole place just has a great vibe to it. As far as facilities are concerned it has everything you could want, including comfy beds, lockers, a large common room and free rakija upon arrival, and they arrange cheap daily tours to the main sights in and around the city. Private accommodation is also available in apartments upstairs and nearby buildings. Dorms €10, doubles, quads and private apartments €15 per person. Zeleno zvono Ilirona Ruvarca 26, tel. (+381) 21 64 02 949, (+381) 60 070 29 63 galfi1@open.telekom.rs Mali Rooms
(+381) 63 1836 773, www.hostelmali.com hostelmali@hotmail.co.uk
City Hostel 644 72 08, www.city hostel.rs, nscityhostel@gmail.com January - June 2012
23
24
Where to stay Vojvodina C-2, Trg Slobode 2, tel. (+381) 21 662 21 22, www. hotelvojvodina.rs, recepcija@hotelvojvodina.rs. The oldest hotel in town, opened in 1854. It is in the centre of the town on Trg slobode, so it is ideal for those who prefer being right in the centre of the action to peace and quiet. The atmosphere in the hotel befits its age and the staff are sometimes sluggish and disinterested. 59 rooms and 2 suites (singles €35, doubles €50, triples €60, suites €60). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AK
Budget
Aurora Beogradski Kej 49b, tel. (+381) 21 4871-400, office@hotelaurora.rs, www.hotelaurora.rs. Built in 2009, the Aurora is an excellent value business class hotel located on the banks of the Danube to the northeast of the city centre. While the surroundings are not the most picturesque in town (unless of course you find industrial zones appealing), the centre is only a short drive or medium-length walk away, and many of the rooms offer views of the river and Petrovaradin fortress on the opposite bank. The rooms are also generously large (25m2 for singles/doubles and a whopping 50m2 suites), and service generally excellent. 42 rooms (singles 3450-3950 RSD, doubles 4450 RSD, suites 5300-7800 RSD). Duga (+381) 21 46 70 00, fax 46 97 54, www.duga-radisic.co.rs, hotelduga@open. telekom.rs. A hotel with ungainly exterior on the outskirts of Novi Sad. The rooms are clean and basic, ideal for large groups of young guests who do not care too much about the interior design. The hotel features a tourist agency organising tours round Novi Sad and its neighbourhood, a basketball court, a shop, a beauty parlour, a large hall for various festive events and a restaurant where you can always buy freshly roasted meat. 53 rooms and 8 suites (singles €33-40, doubles €42-48, triples €51-57, suites €75-92). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APTKL Rimski
(+381) 21 44 32 37, fax 44 47 65, www.rimski.co.rs, rimski@seyampro.rs. A short stroll away from the centre of the town. The rooms are clean but a little cramped and the suits are a far better option. The restaurant on the top floor feels a little claustrophobic due to the sloping ceiling, but it has truly separate rooms for smokers and non-smokers. Although the hotel is quite small, the helpful staff will make a genuine effort to meet your requests - whether it is baby sitting or fax machine or conference room. 22 rooms and 5 suites (singles €30-50, doubles €40-60, suites €100-105). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHURKGL (G)
Guest houses
Planeta Inn B-2, corner of Jevrejska and Gajeva , tel.
(+381) 21 661 58 09, planetainnhotel@gmail.com, www.planetainn.com. The newest hotel (opened on June 1) in the city centre, just above and connected to “Planeta 021” shopping centre. Exterior with air conditioners everywhere isn’t promising, but don’t be discouraged. Pleasant rooms with everything a modern person needs are on the top floor. Double rooms are very spacious, made for enjoyment. For food, you can choose between the hotel restaurant and ordering from any restaurant in the city. 16 rooms (2 singles € 49, 14 doubles € 50). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APR6KGL
Car Royal Apartments B-3, Cara Dušana 71, tel. (+381) 21 636 22 00, www.hotel-car.net, car.ap@sbb. rs. A new hotel, 3km from the town centre, aiming at the business traveller. The rooms are no-nonsense, modern and comfortable, each equipped with a hydro massage bath
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
tub. Some of the rooms are in the attic, with a sloping roof. The hotel offers non-smoking rooms and room service. 11 rooms and 2 suites (singles €45, doubles €55, triples €75, suites €100). VAT not included. APHGL
Filip
(+381) 21 631 08 76, apartmanfilip@gmail.com. A new, decent-looking studio for two on the fifth floor of a building 3km away from the centre of the town and 1km from the Railway Station. It comes with a well-appointed kitchen, A/C, cable TV, telephone limited to local calls, towels and bed linen. Grocery store, bakeries, bank, and bus stop are at stone’s throw. 1 suite (€30). VAT not included. PR
Fontana (+381) 21 662 17 89, www.restoranfontana.com. A popular restaurant in Novi Sad, famed for its traditional meat dishes, offering rooms for rent. Situated close to the town centre. The rooms are spacious, parquet-floored and well-appointed, but the décor is distastefully kitschy. Bear in mind that rooms are atop the restaurant which is often used as the banquet or wedding hall, with live music keeping the patrons enthralled well into the night. The restaurant has a very pretty terrace with a fountain. 14 rooms (singles €35,5, doubles €42, triples €51 ). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APK Mediteraneo
42 71 35, www.hotelmediteraneo.rs, mediteraneo@sbb. rs. A cute little hotel in the very centre of the town, in a quiet street near Dunavski Park. It is quite new and the rooms are very pretty, furnished with funky and colourful items. Breakfast is served in your room or in Mediteraneo Restaurants a few steps away from the hotel. On request, the friendly staff will arrange for you the pick-up, day trips, visits to theatre and museums. 11 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, triples €85). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRL
Villa Una
. In a quiet part of the town, 4km from the centre. Apartments are furnished with cable TV and well-appointed kitchen. Villa Una has a lovely garden, surrounded with family houses. 6 suites (€40 per person). Prices include VAT and breakfast.
Voyager
(+381) 21 45 37 11, www.voyagerns.co.rs. Well-furnished apartments (26-67m2) housed in a modern residential building, situated not far from the town centre. Most apartments have PCs with internet connection and some are fitted with extra long beds to accommodate tall guests. 20 suites (€50-105). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRHL
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
RestauRants
Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circumstances this country has been exposed to throughout the centuries - a combination of various culinary influences prepared in an entirely unique and original way. The food served in restaurants is healthy and completely organic - with no genetically modified products or artificial flavourings, and the portions tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a considerable amount of meat, and served with a variety of vegetables. ‘Home-cooked’ meals tend to be more spicy.
Symbol key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
B Terrace
R Internet
6 Animal friendly
Asian
B-3, Cara Lazara 7a, tel. (+381) 21 45 95 24, www.2stapica.com. A small and simply decorated restaurant featuring Chinese fast food. Although not exactly suited for romantic dinners, it is a great place to grab something to eat after a long walk or a shopping spree. It is interesting because it offers some dishes that are not usually found on the menus of Chinese restaurants in Europe and because you can watch Chinese cooks preparing your meal. Good and fast service. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. ABPGS
C-2, Dunavska 16, tel. (+381) 21 52 96 93. The first ever Chinese restaurant in town with an unbroken tradition of quality. As implied by its name, it specialises in the Szechwan cuisine. The waiters are well-trained and attentive and the interior is typically Chinese, accented with many red details. Be sure to try rice cookies topped with dark chocolate. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. A BPS
Kineski zmaj C-3, Fruškogorska 18, tel. (+381) 21 635 10 30, 635 10 31, office@kineskizmaj.rs. The elegant interior of this restaurant located very close to Štrand beach, is an introduction for gastronomic pleasures in a leyd back atmosphere Food is based on traditional chinese cuisine from all parts of Chine with original chinese spices. Durign hot summer days, summer garden is an easy way to cool down after spicy food. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. S: ABP
00, www.surabaya.rs. The only Indonesian restaurant in Serbia. The interior is decorated in the Indonesian style, with a smart summer terrace (Novi Sad style). The menu offers Indonesian as well as Chinese dishes, the specialty of the house being the algae salad. The restaurant was established 17 years ago, and its popularity has never waned. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€€. A BPGSU6L
Surabaya, Primorska 26, tel. (+381) 21 641 34
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
January - June 2012
25
26
RestauRants Fast Food
Bistrot de Paris Dunavska 8, tel. (+381) 63 759
55 81. Hidden down one of the many narrow alleyways off Dunavska Street, despite the name there is nothing remotely French about the place. Instead you will find what is perhaps the world’s smallest cantina serving a dozen or so Serbian dishes (mainly soups and hearty stews) to an endless stream of satisfied customers - many of whom opt to take their meal back to the office or the nearby park. Bright, modern, fresh, fast, cheap and tasty are all adjectives that come to mind, which add up to a resounding recommendation from us. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Closed Sun. € APS
Foody! Modene 1-3, tel. (+381) 21 533 433, resto-
ran@foody.rs, www.foody.rs. If Yahoo! saw this place’s logo their lawyers might have something to say about it, although they probably have bigger problems these days. Not to be confused with the once mighty internet portal, Foody! is a big, bright buffet restaurant just off the main square. The food itself has never impressed us and gets mixed reviews from locals, but the place is usually packed and the point-and-choose method of service is a definite plus for visitors whose Serbian culinary vocabulary is lacking. € A PSTL.
Index House Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1. This small
stand just east of the Bazar shopping centre, is the answer to the question: Where can you find the best sandwiches in Novi Sad? With more topping combinations available than you will know what to do with, you can either opt for something off the menu or build your own. Unless you’re starving the normal sized sandwiches should be more than filling, and if you don’t know what to choose, try the Index - a Novi Sad classic that has a bit of everything.
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
KFC Novosadskog Sajma 2, tel. (+381) 21 420
405, www.kfc.rs. At the beginning of 2011, Novi Sad’s first (and Serbia’s fourth after three in Belgrade) Kentucky Fried Chicken opened on the ground floor of new glistening glass building on the corner of Bulevar Oslobodenja and Novosadskog Sajma. It might not be the healthiest meal you’ve ever eaten, but resisting the temptation of that deep fried chicken smell can be nearly impossible for some. You can also expect a blast of ice cold AC during the summer, and free wireless internet. Open 09:00-23:00 A PSTUL €
McDonald’s Trg Slobode 3, tel. (+381) 21 423
938, www.mcdonalds.rs. For better or worse, you know exactly what to expect from the world’s most famous fast food chain. Its sole Novi Sad location is in a beautifully renovated building in the southwest corner of Trg Slobode, whose façade alone gives the whole operation a extra shot of much needed class and sophistication. The standard menu meals will run you at least 355 dinar, while a Happy Meal™ will set you back 285, and there’s a children’s play area where the little ones can burn off some of the calories after lunch. Open 07:00-24:00, Sun 08:00-24:00 A PBSTUL
Stomi Gyros (+381) 64 64 16 459. Hands down the best gyros in town, at least as far as we’re concerned. The fact that they weigh out the the amount of meat you get on a small electronic scale may seem a bit stingy, but judging from our experience it’s only to make sure that they don’t give you too little - ie, the gyros are huge! Ordering your choice of meat, vegetable and sauce in a tortilla, rather than on bread, makes it easier to keep your shirt clean, especially at 4am. Two locations, one at the stadium and the other near the fair, are both open around the clock. Open 00:00-24:00 €.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
RestauRants www.inyourpocket.com International Atelje C-2,
(+381) 21 457 929, outline@neobee.net. Set on the Danube directly opposite the fortress, there are no better views of Petrovaradin than from the windows of Atelje. Said to be one of the more exclusive dining experiences in the city, the staff is both professional and friendly, and international cuisine generally exquisite if perhaps a bit unkind to the wallet. The wine lists is also one of Novi Sad’s most impressive. Window tables should be reserved in advance. Open 08:00-23:00 Fr 08:00-01:00, Sat 08:00-01:00, €€€.
Symbol key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
B Terrace
R Internet
6 Animal friendly
any awards for either its cuisine or décor, it definitely offers an atmosphere you won’t find elsewhere, and the prices are reasonable, especially considering the old-fashioned service from waiters in black and white uniforms. €€.
Zak Šafarikova 6, tel. (+381) 21 44 75 65. Set in an
old house on a quite side street opposite the synagogue, Zak offers modern dining in Novi Sad at its finest. Although it’s a bit upmarket, in both appearance and prices, for those who appreciate true culinary expertise it’s more than worth the slight premium. The head chef spent some 20 years working at some of the finer restaurants in Moscow, and has brought that standards and quality he acquired there back to Novi Sad. As in most higher end restaurants, the menu is not extensive, but the combination of tastes and preparation of each dish is not only exemplary, it is an art form. Open 08:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-01:00, Sun 11:00-23:00. €€€. A PBL
Arhiv (+381) 21 472 21 76. One of the best restaurants in town, housed in the basement of a downtown building. A combination of wood and brick punctuated with wrought-iron details provides for understated elegance of the interior. It consists of three rooms which differ in size, making it an ideal setting for business lunches and intimate dinners alike. The menu may not be copious, but is guaranteed to lure you back. Even the food arrangement is a cut above the standard offer: the leek and mushroom soup is served in a scooped-out loaf of bread, and succulent char-grilled chicken breast wrapped in bacon and stuffed with prunes comes with peach sauce. There are dishes, specialties of the house, which must be ordered three hours ahead of coming to the restaurant. The only down side to the restaurant we can think of is that the over-zealous waiters would sometimes bring the main course before you have had the time to fully savour the hors d’oeuvre. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€€. ABPSE Dva
(+381) 63 113 45 67. Good vibes and good food: meat dishes, pastas and pizzas, risottos, delicious desserts. Bread and pizzas are baked in a wood-fired oven. One serious shortcoming is that you cannot quite relax on the hard wooden backless chairs, which also give the place an ambiance rather reminiscent of a primary school canteen. A part of the ceiling is made of glass, so you can watch the rain fall, and the roof terrace would be fantastic were it not for the chairs. Open 09:00 02:00 €€. A BPSR
Vojvodina Trg Slobode 2, tel. (+381) 21 6622-122, office@hotelvojvodina.rs, www.hotelvojvodina.rs. If you do a Google image search for ‘faded elegance’ you’ll find several photos of this cavernous restaurant on the ground floor of the venerable Vojvodina hotel on Novi Sad’s main square - actually you’ll find an antique shop outside of Seattle, but you get the point. While the place likely won’t be winning
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Italian
Gondola Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 18, tel. (+381)
21 45 65 63. Serving some of the most popular pizza in town, Gondola also has a lengthy menu of standard Italian favourites, and for reasons that are unknown to us it tends to attract a fancier moneyed crowd, especially at the weekends. Open till midnight every day of the week, it also frequently serves as a meeting place for those wanting to grab an early drink or two before moving on to bars or clubs. Open 08:00-24:00 €€. A PBR
Mediteraneo
(+381) 21 52 63 22, mediteraneo@sbb.co.rs. A very stylish Italian Trattoria only a few steps from the pedestrian zone. Colourful walls and wrought-iron ornaments give this ambiance a cosy feel. The menu features a fairly large selection of Italian dishes, some of which are cooked to perfection and some would not exactly pass muster in Italy (which does not mean they are bad). You may not always depend on the friendly staff for recommendation as most people in Serbia are easily swayed by the generosity of the portions. Open 07:00 - 23:00. €€. ABP
Pasha C-2, Pionirska 1, tel. (+381) 21 661 61 89,
www.pasharestoran.com. The restaurant offers Italian and international dishes. The gnocchi and pastas are all made in-house, and pizza is baked in a wood-fired oven. Fast and discreet service, modern décor, a good selection of wine and rich menu attract many business people. If you get hungry whilst walking round the Danube Park, this place should be your first choice, and if you want to have dinner, you should book ahead. Open 9:00 - 24:00. €€. APS
www.inyourpocket.com January - June 2012
27
28
RestauRants No trip to Novi Sad is complete without eating at one the banks of the Danube. The only one within walking distance of the city centre is Aqua Doria next to the bridge below Petrovaradin Fortress, while Kamenjar is perhaps the best known of them all and provides an overall experience that can’t be found elsewhere. We’ve include both options here.
Aqua Doria
31 11. Excellent location (against the backdrop of Petrovaradin Fortress, next to the bridge) and good food have made this floating restaurant very popular. The specialty of the house is fish stew, and the offer includes freshwater fish prepared in a variety of ways, grilled meat, and some interesting local specialties such as svadbarski kupus (cabbage slow-cooked with meat and bones of all kinds). The interior is decorated in simple and rustic, real country style, and there is an inviting summer terrace with a protective roof on the shore. People come here to while away long nights with music and wine and to savour their food at leisure. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. ABPRSE6L
Terasa (+381) 21 44 77 88, www.mmmgroup.rs. Run by the same company that owns several other slightly upmarket Italian restaurants in Novi Sad, everything here is done well, including ambience, service and of course the food. While the arched ceilings and well-lit interior is incredibly inviting, coming all the up here and not sitting outside on the terrace almost defeats the purpose. Prices are a bit more than you can expect to pay in the city centre, but the views are more than worth the extra expense. Open 08:00-24:00 €€.
Pizzerias
mala (+381) 21 42 27 28. Offers more than 40 different kinds of pizza made to chef’s original recipes, featuring uncommon ingredients and lots of fresh vegetables. An idyllic atmosphere, just like in a movie - nice and smiling guests, nice and smiling staff, nice music… Authentic décor of a typical house in the 19th century Vojvodina. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. A BPSR
C-2, Beogradska 19, tel. (+381) 21 643 32 00. Located across the Danube in a beautiful setting of an old building with Petrovaradin Fortress as a backdrop. Most diners come here for pizzas, although the restaurant offers quite a selection of various Italian dishes, including light salads suitable for vegetarians. The attentive staff will suggest a local wine to accompany the meal. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PS
Serbian
Astal šaren (+381) 21 52 80 04. A tiny restaurant with authentic Serbian cuisine and ambiance, its tables covered with check tablecloths. The short menu caters for meat fans, offering various grilled dishes and fresh vegetable salads. The only home-made dish is a veal soup which is a must order. The place is easy on the pocket and the dishes are quickly served, so it is far better to come here than waste your money away on fast food. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €. BPS Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Kamenjar Stari Kamenjar 83, 468 409, market-
tours@nscable.net, markettours.wsc.rs. Located just outside Novi Sad in the village of the same name, Kamenjar is not the easiest place to find, so taking a taxi from the centre is recommended even if you have your own transport, which will also give you an excuse to have an extra glass or two of rakija. The somewhat run down and battered looking restaurant is a true Serbian institution though, and more than worth the effort of getting there. It’s long been popular with various artist, politicians, celebrities and foreign journalists (especially during Exit Festival), so you’re likely to be in good company, but reservations are a must at the weekends. The traditionally prepared fish dishes are roundly excellent, as is the local wine to wash the food down with, and every meal should include a least a few courses. During the summer months there are weekly fish soup cooking competitions, and every Autumn the premises are home to an artist’s colony, whose work adorns most of the walls inside. With advanced notice and weather permitting, boat rides can be arranged to a protected island on the opposite bank of the Danube, and there’s even talk of one day building an eco camp there.
Bela
(+381) 21 661 65 94. One of the oldest restaurants in town, delivering genuine Serbian hospitality. It serves large portions of local and international dishes, and the offer includes kid, veal and lamb roast. This place is known for a collection of 2000 bottles of wines from all over the world stacked on shelves 5m high, which line two of the restaurant walls. You can select your wine from the upper shelves and the attentive waiters will get it for you using the ladders conveniently supplied for that purpose. The restaurant offers rooms for rent, so if you have gorged yourself on all that great food and wine and feel somnolent, here is a place to take a nap. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€. A PREL
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
RestauRants
29
Local Specialties
Gusan (The Gander) C-2, Zmaj Jovina 4, tel.
(+381) 21 42 55 70. Housed in the basement of a 19th century building (one of the first 4 buildings in town on two floors), this place is something between a restaurant and a pub. It boasts a lovely shady terrace fenced off in the manner of traditional Serbian villages and offers a selection of beers and local dishes at more than reasonable prices. In the evening, it often hosts gigs and DJ performances and draws sizeable crowds. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €. E
For the main course, most restaurants in Novi Sad will offer roštilj - different types of barbecued meat cuts served with finely chopped onion. Although many world nations prepare their meat in a similar style, Serbs have managed to elevate barbecued meat to an art form, and nowhere else will you have the opportunity to try such specialties. The meat needs to be primed in a particular way before it can be tossed on the grill, typically heated with beech charcoal. Barbecue chefs are a class of their own, and the best of the bunch come from the south-Serbian town of Leskovac. Types of barbecued pljeskavice (similar to a hamburger), kobasice (a special, of meat on a skewer), vešalice (boneless pork loin, cut lengthwise), chicken liver rolled in strips of bacon, etc. If you order the Mixed meat, you will get a little of all the voz (Leskovac Train), you will get the same combination, but on separate plates that will arrive one by one, so that the various types of meat stay warm.
Kafanica C-2,
(+381) 21 6611 783, info@kafanica.rs, www.kafanica. rs. One of Novi Sad’s least well-kept secrets, the everpopular Kafanica specialises in traditional Vojvodina cuisine served in a cosy setting on a small back street in the city centre. The interior is decorated in stereotypical country style (picture checkered table clothes and lots of knick knacks on the walls), and generally gives the impression of dining at your grandmother’s house. The menu changes daily and always includes a few dishes you won’t find elsewhere, so repeated trips are encouraged - even if you’re only in town for a short stay. Highly recommended! Open 12:00-24:00, Closed Sun €.
na Lakat C-2, (+381) 60 030 19 01, www.kucerdanalakat.com. There’s no place in Novi Sad (or elsewhere for that matter) as if it were someone’s private residence - regular dining chairs and tables share the space with the type of couches, cushy chairs and coffee tables that you would find in more elegant cafés - you can’t help but feel at home. The cuisine consists mainly of standard no-frills Serbian, but the ambiance makes it place to be experienced rather than just visited. There’s also live traditional music every night from 22:00 until closing.
Lipa (+381) 21 661 52 59. One of the oldest restaurants in town, which serves authentic regional dishes, particularly those typical of Vojvodina, at budget prices. The interior has not been intentionally designed to look retro, it looks exactly as it did 50 years ago, only shabbier. The staff is polite, if a little slow, providing a fitting complement to the ambiance. The menu is based on meat dishes, but vegetarians could manage by ordering vegetable soup, some of the side dishes or grilled mushrooms, as well as a fresh vegetable salad. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. €. ABS Ognjište
(+381) 21 45 05 94. Savoury local specialties, some of which cannot be found anywhere else. The interior, with its stone walls and massive wooden tables is reminiscent of a dim lit mountain lodge. The rustic décor is punctu-
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
ated by numerous old items from country houses. The portions may be surprisingly large so you should check with the waiters (dressed in folk costumes) what you are getting, because if you go as a couple and you are not ravenously hungry, you may share the main course to make room for the soup and the dessert. roasted under an iron bell on coal and ashes. 09:00 - 24:00. €€. AP
Open
Osam tamburaša D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. (+381) 21 42 11 44, osamtamburasa@open. telekom.rs. One of the three restaurants on the terrace of Petrovaradin Fortress with magnificent view over the town. It offers a standard selection of local specialties, most of which are delicious, with occasional flops, usually with predictable menu fillers. You should not miss which is merely adequate. Waiters could use some professional training. The toilet is not up to the standard the restaurant aspires to reach. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€. ABPGSREL
January - June 2012
30
RestauRants Additional restaurants
Price Guide
Italian
(Based on a good meal without wine) Expensive €€€ (More than €12 per person) Mid-range €€ (€7-12 per person) Cheap € (Less than €7 per person)
Taverna sat
21 557 800, tavernasat@gmail.com. Open 08:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. €€ Alla Lanterna C-2, Dunavska 27, tel. (+381) 21 662 20 02, Open 08:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:30. €€ Piazza C-3, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 661 38 32, Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 00:00. €€ Pizzeria Adrijana C-2, Zmaj Jovina 1, tel. (+381) 21 424 520, 424 519. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00.€€ Caribic lice 4, www.mmmgroup.rs, tel. (+381) 21 661 18 00, 505 337. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. €
Ciao
661 59 10, ciaopicerija@sbb.rs. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. €
La Forza
500. Open 08:00 - 23:00. €€
Sicilia C-2, Zmaj Jovina 5, tel (+381) 21 662 16 21. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. €€
Bata
, Kamenjar V br.21, tel. (+381) 21 40 21 10, 30 19 99. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 00:00. €€ Plavi Dunav - Futog, Ribarska bb, tel. (+381) 21 897 497, (+381) 63 863 78 89. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 00:00.€€ Dunavac, Dunavska 000, Futog, tel. (+381) 21 89 54 06, kontakt@splavdunavac.com. Open 10:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€ Na kraj sveta, Kovilj, Arkanj bb, nakrajsveta@ eunet.rs, tel. (+381) 21 413 249, (+381) 64 126 82 80. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon. €€
Cesla
(+381) 21 458 972. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€
Sea food Ribarska
, Podunavska 2, Kamenjar, brankastojanovic@yahoo.com, tel. (+381) 21 63 64 664. Open 12:00 - 00:00. €€ Jastog, Gavrila Principa 9, restoran.jastog@gmail. com, tel. (+381) 21 63 64 664. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€
Plava frajla C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 661 36
75. A very popular restaurant, famous for its delicious dishes. Finding a table at lunch-time on Sundays is a mission impossible. The quirky interior decorated in Vojvodina style features chairs hanging from the ceiling (avoid only if you have a phobia of chairs falling on your head). A great place to try authentic local dishes. You will be served in-house made hot pita bread with every dish. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 10:00. €€. ABPESUL
Seafood
Alaska Barka Ribarko Ostrvo 4, tel. (+381) 64 647 04 28, ww.ribarskoostrvo.rs. Located along the banks of the Danube on a place literally called ‘fish island’ and Novi Sad In Your Pocket
housed in a building designed to resemble a ship, there are no prizes for guessing what the speciality of this newly opened restaurant is. However, if for some reason the extensive selection of fish dishes (there are about two dozen fresh water and sea fish to chose from in all) don’t strike your fancy, there are more than enough Serbian and international options to make a trip here worthwhile - as does the excellent service and live traditional music. Open 11:30-24:00 €€€.
Fish&zeleniš (+381) 21 45 20 00. A miniature restaurant offering fish&chips, mussels, zucchini, polenta... something to please everyone’s palate. It is best to book in ahead because it is very popular and always packed (there is no need to book several weeks ahead, a call earlier in the day would do). Great service and scents of potted herbs used to prepare the dishes give it an intimate, relaxed feel. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€. ABPGSE kod B-3, Ribarsko ostrvo bb, tel. (+381) 21 50 05 20. Situated on the Fishing Island, boasting a fine open terrace with a protective roof and a splendid view over the Danube. Its interior is also quite nice. The menu predominantly features freshwater fish specialties, and there are several meat dishes and a kids menu. You shouldn’t worry about bones in the fish chowder - they have been removed. Incidentally, this is the only place in town where you can order escargot. A band of tambura (long necked lute instruments) players performs on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €. AB PGSE6L Ski Bar Ribarsko Ostrvo bb, tel. (+381) 21 225 22
51. A floating restaurant with a large open terrace where you can rest your eyes on the Danube and the drifting boats, reclining on deck-chairs, drink in your hand. A favourite with young people. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a tropical bar on a beach, but be ware of relentless aerial assaults of blood-thirsty mosquitoes in summer. The specialty is the smoked carp (great taste, but slightly on the salty side, calling for generous helpings of wine). The best way to get there is by taxi. Open 09:00 - 01:00 €€. ABPSE
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
cafÉs Symbol key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
B Terrace
R Internet
6 Animal friendly
Absolut C-2, Zmaj Jovina 12, tel.(+381) 21 42 24 26. Situated on the first floor of an old downtown building. Its original interior has an intimate feel, as if you were in someone’s apartment packed with sofas and coffee tables. The music is subtle enough for conversation and there is a good choice of quality wines, cocktails and teas. Popular with patrons of different ages. Open 09:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. ABGE6L
Bookstore-café Nublu
tel. (+381) 21 52 53 65. A café, gallery and bookstore, all in one. Very interesting ambiance complemented by subtle lighting and airy music, where you can leaf through various books over a cup of coffee or buy a painting of an up-and-coming artist as a souvenir from Novi Sad (they have really good paintings). Open 09:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. BG6E
Cuba-Libre (+381) 65 270 76 86. Café & Gallery drawing happy and smiling people who love Cuban, Brazilian and Reggae music. If you are down, this is the place to cheer you up. The bar with an excellent selection of rum and exotic cocktails is on the lower level, where the partying goes on. The gallery upstairs, furnished with plush chairs, is a perfect spot to wind down and have a chat. Occasional live percussion performances bring the house down. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. BE C-2, Zmaj Jovina 22, tel. (+381) 21 661 50 88. A tiny (literally) small café in a passage-way, hugely popular on account of its lovely summer terrace. A perfect spot for a lazy afternoon coffee after a tour of the town. They also serve draft beer and fruit cocktails. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. BP6UE
Frida Dunavska 10/I, tel. (+381) 64 996 97 90. A café on the first floor of a building in a passage-way, consisting of four rooms painted in bright colours, and doubling as a gallery. Features occasional poetry evenings, art performances and various promotional events. Frida attracts quirky people, artists, and those who like to hang out with such crowd. Good music and casual atmosphere. Happy hour each day from 13:00 to 17:00. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00 AP6L Greenet C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. (+381)
21 42 35 57. A branch of a Belgrade café chain, located on the first floor of Bazar shopping mall. Popular with Novi Sad chic girls taking a break from arduous shopping. The specialty of the house is the mocha. Take-away coffee is also served in heat-conserving cups, and you can also purchase various blends of ground coffee to prepare at home. You may skip the dessert. Open 09:00 - 21:00. AP
www.inyourpocket.com novisad.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Cosy cafes are one thisng Novi Sad is definitely not lacking
Hedonist C-2, Zmaj Jovina 26/I, tel. (+381) 21 52 94 38. This is a sophisticated spot - you wouldn’t want to go there wearing shorts and sneakers. The interior features crimson walls, stylish furniture and parquet floor. There are occasional live music performances adding to the rarefied atmosphere, so don’t expect wild parties. It is a perfect place to wind down with a Cuban cigar and a glass of cognac or pleasantly surprise the significant other who likes secret hideaways known only to insiders. Open 09:00 - 23:00. APE C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 14, tel. (+381) 064 112 45 88. A café that will certainly draw your attention as it is housed in an old tram carriage which once upon a time, in early 20th century, took bathers to the Štrand beach on the Danube. Its authentic interior and the strategic position at the very beginning of the pedestrian zone is very appealing to those who like to sip their drink whilst leisurely observing whatever is going on in the street and passing comments. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. B6
Vremeplov (Time Machine) B-2, Bulevar oslobo-
A large selection of cakes, desserts, coffee varieties and drinks. Non-smokers are not advised to order a ‘Humphrey Bogart’ featuring a short espresso, a Camel (the regular, unfiltered variety) and a match. Although housed in a rather new building, it is furnished in the early 20th century style, its décor punctuated by authentic items from that period. You can also enjoy your dessert in the lovely greenhouse. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat,
January - June 2012
31
32
CAFÉS Symbol key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
B Terrace
R Internet
6 Animal friendly
Republic: low arched ceilings, lots of brick and some 30 types of beer to choose from, although the latter comes in bottles rather than draught. On Wednesday and Thursday nights there are live rock shows, while the weekends are usually dedicated to disco. Open 08:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-01:00.
Havana C-2,
883. Not the largest bar in the city, but you an expect to find a crowd packed in here at the weekends (and spilling outside in the street during the warmer months - some nights they even find room to invite a live brass band, much to the raucous patrons’ delight. Located on a small side 09:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-01:00.
Lazino Tele
56, www.lazinotele.com. Arguably the most popular bar
The literal and figurative heart of the city, Trg Slobode is a favourite meeting place on a night out
large drink selection and varied entertainment offering the eponymous Lazino Tele has a bit of something for most everyone. You can expect live music performances at least a few nights per week, and DJs are a mainstay at the weekends. Drop in during the day or evening and you can also catch sports on the one of several TVs.
Almost everyone who visits Novi Sad is taken by its laidback vibe. People are easy-going and known throughout Serbia for their philosophy of eating, drinking and living in the slow lane. No wonder, then, that its night scene lacks the hectic buzz of Belgrade nightlife. But fear not, you will find plenty to enjoy. Those who like clubbing will have terrific time on Petrovaradin Fortress and you
London pub
in the downtown pedestrian zone, packed with cafés, restaurants and clubs.
Red Cow Irish Pub Zmaj Jovina 28, tel. (+381) 21 427 136. Somewhat hidden down a small alleyway and up a flight of stairs at the north end of Zmaj Jovina Street, being located in one of the oldest buildings in all of Novi Sad definitely lends it a touch of authentic Irish charm. Best of all they actually have Guinness on tap, as well as the Serbian standard Jelen and usually several others. Throw in another 40 types of bottled beer, frequent live concerts and generally cool crowd, and it’s safe to say that it’s one of our favourite watering holes in town.
Bars and Pubs Berliner Pub
519, berlinerpubnovisad@gmail.com. Located in the narrow alleyway to the north of the Cathedral, this pub earns its name with a fine selection of beers on tap, including several varieties of the house speciality Scheider Weisse (which is one of Bavaria’s finest). The place isn’t huge, but the friendly staff, decent music and of course the beer, make it a mandatory stop on any old town pub crawl. Open 08:00-23:00, Sat,Sun 08:00-01:00.
City Pub C-2, Njegoševa 2, tel. (+381) 66 934 62
87, city.pub.ns@gmail.com. This subterranean pub is near the Cathedral will look familiar to anyone who has spent any significant amount of time (drinking) in the Czech
42 18 81. Brick walls and floors, wooden tables and the Union Jack. A large selection of draft beer (including Guinness) and spirits. You get to hear the 80s and 90s chart hits and rock gigs are hosted regularly. It is not uncommon for girls to end up dancing on the bar. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. BURE6
Ze Bar
ze.bar@lazeteleckog.rs, www.zebar.lazeteleckog. rs. street, it’s a popular place to grab a beer and meet up with friends before heading out to another bar or a club. Keep an eye out for the zebra logo (yes the name is a play on the Serbian spelling of zebra) and you can’t miss the place. Open 08:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-01:00
www.inyourpocket.com Novi Sad In Your Pocket
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife Clubs Club Capone Novosadskog Sajma 35 (Park Hotel),
tel. (+381) 64 927 77 77. Formerly known as Baltazar, this is probably the best place in town for house music lovers. Its minimalist interior design is nicely complemented by a huge bar, almost 15m long, staffed with great bartenders. Club queues are a frequent sight, and members and regular patrons are given precedence. Don’t even think of trying to get in with sneakers or a sweatshirt. Although it is an exclusive spot in every respect, its prices are moderate, you can get a glass of whiskey for €2. Open 23:00 - 04:00 BGPER
Foxtrot B-2, Futoška 23, tel. (+381) 21 662 29 04.
This wood panelled café is firm favourite with jazz, rock and blues lovers. Over the day it is a pleasant spot for a sip of drink whilst reading newspapers, and in the evening the place gets swinging, its air thick with smoke. Gigs on weekends. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. BP 6RE
Giardino C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. (+381) 21 489 87 40. A large club with modern décor on the roof-top of the Bazar shopping mall. Its two stylish open terraces enjoy stunning views over the town. It is a perfect place for a relaxed coffee to mark the end of a shopping spree or to start off a night of club hopping. If you’re not into club hopping, this is one place where you’ll want to stay put, particularly on evenings with live music. And if you get hungry, you can order a variety of light Italian dishes or some dessert. Open 09:00 - 01:00. ABPURE Martha’s Pub
61 10 38. You will recognise it by the quirky sign above the entrance saying ‘God save the pumpkins’. Contagious positive vibes and relaxed atmosphere. One of the best spots to go out for a drink even if you are on your own, because you will soon get the feeling that all guests are part of one large happy
stage are on the lower level, and there are comfy chairs on the upper level to provide a quieter place to chill. While there are no wild parties, there is plenty of good laid-back fun. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PER
brandy.
boat moored by the Fishing Island (don’t try to get there on foot, take a taxi). As you dance to electronic music on its glass-walled upper deck, you will enjoy a great view of the Danube and the Freedom Bridge. The dance floor is surrounded with high tables and bar stools. The best parties are on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Open 23:00 - 03:00. PE
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. B
Muzej Petrovaradin Fortress, tel.(+381) 21 64 640
79 76. Located in the lower part of the town Museum. Its wooden flooring, stone bar and semi-circular arches lit by disco lights make it the most elegant disco in Novi Sad. Each night will feature a different theme, including gigs, DJ’s events and retro music. The best time to visit on a weekend is around 01:00. The prices are a little higher than most other places in town. Open 21:00 - 04:00 BPER
New Yard Night Bar Uspenska 18, tel. (+381) 21 52
65 86. This bar, proud to have 23 years of uninterrupted work on the third shift, is a hard rock and heavy metal hangout. Beer is the beverage of choice and gigs are fairly frequent. You need not have any security concerns, the guests are very friendly and there are no incidents. Open 22:00 - 03:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. BEL
Route 66 B-3, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5, tel. (+381)
21 635 07 90. A popular club, operating as a café by day, housed in an airy, warehouse-feeling venue spread over two levels. It is spacious enough to support sizeable crowds drawn by pop, rock, jazz and blues gigs (something to suit everyone’s taste) which start around 23:00. The club sometimes features DJ events. Open 08:00 - 01:00. BRPEL
RST Club B -3, Bulevar despota Stefana 5, tel: (+381) 21 46 89 76. A nice and unpretentious spot known for live events almost every night, featuring local pop and rock or global mainstream hits. The bar and the novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Skipper, Ribarsko ostrvo bb. The club is located on a
Sterija C-2, Pozorišni trg 1. One of the more popular clubs
in town. Located in the building of the Serbian National Theatre, it is favourite with the actors. In daytime, you can chill out in the large terrace, but in the evening, the main events take place inside. There are live performances by local pop and rock bands almost every night. It does not seem that too much care has been given to the interior design and the impression is further marred by a plasma TV hanging on a wall and featuring a local TV station. It is a universal truth that TV sets in cafés have an uncanny way of absorbing attention and killing the conversation. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 03:00. BPE
Studio B-2, C-2, Vuka Karadzica 5, tel. (+381) 66
600 1600. One of the most popular club located in the city centre (with some 22,000 fans and counting on Facebook as some social media proof), if you manage to squeeze inside at the weekend you’re more or less guaranteed to find the place packed with twenty-something Serbians dancing (and drinking) the night away. However, if you’re claustrophobic be aware that it’s not the biggest space and the ceilings are downright low. If you want a table reservations well in advance are a must. Open Thur-Sat 22:00-03:00. Closed Sun-Wed.
January - June 2012
33
34
Nightlife
Enquire at the tourist office on Trg Slobode to see if there are any live concerts scheduled while you’re in town - chances are there will be!
Vinyl Club
(+381) 21 69 799 766, vinylclubnbar@gmail.com. Although there is in fact a vinyl motif (including a giant-sized turntable that serves as a stage/DJ booth), the place is a bit more upscale than the name would otherwise suggest, with a modern design, uniformed staff and well-dressed clientele. Set across three levels, which are roughly divided between a daytime café on the ground floor, a bar and pub in the middle, and a restaurant occupying an open loft-like space at the top - the latter offers some excellent, and reasonably priced food, if you find yourself craving a snack but don’t want to leave. Open 08:00-03:00
Wheels
52 25 57. The only all jazz club in town. Like any other jazz club, it draws people who come to listen to good music and weigh up the performers, and who could not care less about the décor of the club or the outfit of its patrons. Apart from the mainstream jazz, on certain nights the club features French gitan jazz, electro jazz, and even fado and flamenco performances. Open 19:00 - 01:00. PE
Skochko’s bar C-2, Zmaj Jovina 21/1, tel. (+381) 63 45 82 83. A bar with a range of both alchohol and non alchocol coctails based on coffee. Walls are covered with paintings of artists from Novi Sad, and spave is filled with nice smell of cuban cigars. This meeting point is the right choice if you wish to have a pleasan conversation with frineds. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Fri-Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Additional cafés and clubs Indexova tribina 3bina@neobee.net, tel. (+381) 21 544 220. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. Macchiato Liman B-3, Narodnog fronta 21c, tel. (+381) 21 24 4 54 08, Open 07:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. Vanila Club C-2, Ulica Modene, tel. (+381) 65 544 20 00, vanilans7@gmail.com. Open 22:00 - 03:00 Verige
00 605, verigeclub@neobee.com. Open 22:00 - 03:00
Symbol key P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
B Terrace
R Internet
6 Animal friendly
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
What to see Essentials
Downtown - pedestrian zone C-2. The heart of the old town features almost all must-see attractions in Novi Sad.
Square (Trg slobode) has been the stage for most significant events, whether cultural or political. It is also the usual rendezvous point and the man place for feeding fat pigeons.
can see one of the pockmarks on the town face - the cannon ball which remained buried in the building exterior walls (where it landed during the 1849 shelling of the town). A characteristic feature of these old streets are numerous passageways and courtyards concealing many restaurants, cafés and boutiques, so plunge in and enjoy. The latest town attraction is the small street of Laze
The green symbol of the town C-2 The living, green symbol of Novi Sad is the Hackberry (Celtis Australis) tree located in the promenade zone in Modene street. This 18 m tall giant has a treetop 22 m in diameter and the perimeter of the trunk is around 3,5 m. It was protected as a Natural monument in 1978 due to its biological and outstanding ambient value. Štrand C-3, on the Danube bank at the far end of
The square is dominated by two buildings facing one another: City Hall built in 1895 (an exact copy of the City Hall in Graz) and the Name of Mary Roman Catholic Church known as the Cathedral, built in 1895 in the neogothic style. The square is encircled by the ‘lead soldier’ building from 1909 (dubbed so after the sculpture of an armoured soldier carrying a halberd, perched on the top of the building), Bank of Vojvodina building (erstwhile Grand Hotel Mayer) and the long two-floor building of Vojvodina Hotel from 1746 (the oldest hotel in town). A monument political rights of the Serbs in the 19th century occupies the centre of the square. From there, the pedestrian zone further stretches to Zmaj Jovina Street, the main promenade and the commercial centre of the town. The street is lined with numerous openterrace cafés and pastry shops, favourite with those who love to sit back and idly watch the world go by. A monument Zmaj - Dragon), Serbian doctor and poet, loved for his nursery rhymes, is at the far end of the street. He is also known as the author of the first postcard in the world (sent from Vienna in 1870, featuring a dragon, what else). The street ends with the building of the Bishop’s Palace, Orthodox Church (built in 1901), with the Cathedral Church (Saborna) right behind. The corner of Zmaj Jovina and Dunavska streets is the location of the oldest preserved house in Novi Sad (1720) known as ‘At the White Lion’s’, which nowadays houses the Irish Pub. Dunavska street, also packed with shops and cafés, leads towards the Danube Park and the Danube river. At the beginning of the street, you
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Štrand, a lido on the Danube is the focal point of entertainment for all ages during the hot summer days. As many as 15,000 people come daily to the lido: old men playing chess, families enjoying a picnic, men and women indulging in a bit of dalliance, beach babes and posers who come to see and be seen, and anyone looking for good fun in the sun. Set against the background of a large park with deep shade, this 700m long lido has regular beach facilities, including toilets, showers, 700 changing booths rented out for the entire season, security and lifeguard services, emergency paramedics, several cafés and restaurants. In summer, Štrand hosts numerous events and sports competitions. You need to be careful when you swim in the Danube because of its strong currents that may quickly overtake you if you are not a good swimmer. The water purity is checked and while it is safe for swimming, it is not safe to drink, so keep your mouth closed as you swim. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. Admission 40 dinars, free after 22:00.
Petrovaradin Fortress D -2. One o f the largest
fortresses in Europe. It was built and rebuilt between 1692 and 1780, its design based on the system of fortification developed by French Marquis de Vauban. The fortress covers an area of 112 hectares, and has 13 gates and 16km of underground passages spread over 4 levels. Owing to its size, thick walls and 400 cannons, it was considered unconquerable and earned the name of the ‘Gibraltar on the Danube’. The erstwhile barracks and underground passages are nowadays converted into the
January - June 2012
35
36
What to see premises of the Museum of the City and numerous art ateliers, galleries, and artisan workshops. The terrace of the fortress, by the Clock Tower, boasts splendid views of the town. The clock on the Tower is unique in that the big hand tells hours and the small one minutes. This was allegedly done so that the boatmen travelling on the Danube could see the time from a long distance. The clock is slow when it is cold and fast when it is hot, so people have dubbed it a ‘drunken clock’. The fortress features several restaurants and night clubs and it is famous for EXIT - the best music festival in Europe 2007. Were it not for the scarcity of garbage bins and rather random park cleaning service, it would have been perfect. You may get to the top plateau of the fortress by car, just follow the signs for Leopold Hotel. If on your way up you should see a lonely vehicle and some commotion inside, don’t worry, with the crime rate so small as in Novi Sad, that must be an amorous couple, but give it a wide berth anyway. The long arched passage is too narrow for two-way traffic, so do follow the instructions by the officers placed at its ends, who communicate the arrival of vehicles to one another over the radio set. You can get to the fortress by bus Nº3, taxi, or take a leisurely walk, because it is not too far.
The bridges The first temporary pontoon bridge was
erected in 16 century by Turkish army, before that inhabitants and soldiers had used ferry boat to cross the river Danube. First permanent, iron bridge named Franz Joseph, designed by Karl Baumann, was built in 1883. The remains of this bridge can still be seen. Novi Sad bridges were demolished and rebuilt couple of times during city’s history. There are three bridges that connect the Danube banks today: Varadin bridge, Raillway and Liberty bridge.
Jewish Novi Sad Jewish community Novi Sad B-2, Jevrejska 11,
tel. 42 38 82. The Jewish community of Novi Sad was allowed to build its first synagogue in the early 18th century. The local Jewish community belonged culturally to the Hungarian Jewry. Only about a quarter of the more than 4,000 Jews of Novi Sad survived the Holocaust that followed the German invasion of Yugoslavia in 1941 and the annexation of Novi Sad to Hungary. Over 800 Jews of Novi Sad - men, women and children of all ages - were murdered during massacres conducted by the Hungarian police against Jews and Serbs in January 1942. In May 1944, the synagogue of Novi Sad served as an arrest house for the Jews of Novi Sad and it was from there that they were deported to the Nazi extermination camps. The synagogue was consecrated again in 1945 when it became the focal point of the revived Jewish life in the city. The Jewish population of Novi Sad dwindled further as many members of the local community chose to immigrate to Israel and other countries in the 1950’s. There were an estimated 400 Jews in Novi Sad in the early years of the 21st century. Synagogue B-2, Jevrejska 11. One of Novi Sad landmarks This impressive building in the style of Hungarian secession was completed in 1909. As the Jewish community no longer could support the costs of maintenance, in 1991 it was leased to the city for a period of twenty five years. Taking advantage of the fine acoustics of the synagogue building, the city, having restored the interior, decided to use it as a concert hall for classic and other music events. The Jewish community, nevertheless, is able use the synagogue whenever it wishes, as they do each year, for celebrating major Jewish holidays.
Novi Sad’s beach on the Danube is the place to be during the warmer months of the year
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
What to see Historic Churches When you visit churches and other religious buildings, you are expected to behave respectfully and speak quietly. Churches are open throughout the day and you can enter even during a service, but try not to interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. You are not allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt, with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos with permission only.
St. Nicholas Church C-2, Nikolajevska porta. Built
in the baroque style in 1730, it is the oldest Orthodox church in Novi Sad. The original decorations were destroyed in the 1849 shelling of Novi Sad. The sons of Mileva and Albert Einstein were baptised in this church.
The Cathedral Orthodox Church of Saint George (Saborna) The Saborna Church was built
in the baroque style in 1734. Heavily damaged in the 1849 shelling, it was renovated in 1880. The beautiful iconostasis in the churchyard is the oldest preserved monument in Novi Sad, dating from the 18th century.
Th e N a m e o f M a r y Pa r i s h C h u r c h - Th e Cathedral C-2, Trg slobode. A Roman Catholic church, built in 1895 in the neo-gothic style on the foundation of an old Roman Catholic church. It has stained-glass windows and the altar made of carved wood from Tyrol. The church sometimes schedules concerts on the organs.
The Cathedral is the city’s second most-recognizable sight
The City Museum of Novi Sad is located in Petrovaradin Fortress, and is a must-see for those interested in the history of the city and the region
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
January - June 2012
37
38
What to see Parks & Gardens
City Museum of Novi Sad - Underground Military
Galleries D -2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel.(+381) 21 43 31 45. Don’t miss out on one of the largest networks of underground passages in Europe. The system of underground passages (galleries) has 16km of tunnels spread over four levels, with as many as 12,000 loopholes. Visitors are permitted to view only a part of the passageways, 1km long. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Organized tours only.
C i t y M u s e u m o f N ov i S a d - F o r e i g n A r t Collection C-2, Dunavska 29, tel. 55 12 39. A of the Western European schools from the Renaissance to the 20th century, as well as applied arts items. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars.
Museum Fantasy C-2, Kosovska 18a, 426 778, www.muzejfantasy.com. First Serbian toy and wax museum exhibits more that 5000 objects from the period1880 – 2006. Chess boards (Mokarex), lead soldiers, papier-mâché objects and toy trains show the historic importance of games and toys throughout the world. Admission: 200 dinars, children 150 dinars.
The Cathedral is the city’s second most-recognizable sight
Museum zbirka),
96 345,
Open 08:00 - 16:00.
The Danube Park C-2. The main town park and the loveliest. Once there was a fen overgrown with reeds on its site, which was developed into a park in 1895. Today there is a smallish lake in the heart of the park, which has a tiny island in its middle and ducks and swans are gliding in the lake. The park boasts over 250 species of plants, numerous sculptures, and part of it is turned into a kids playground.
Museums
Mu seum of Vojvodina C-2, Dunavska 35 -37, tel. (+381) 21 42 05 66, www.muzejvojvodine.org. rs. A permanent display of archaeological, historical and ethnographic artefacts relevant to Vojvodina, dating from the Palaeolithic to the middle of the 20th century. Three helmets from late Antique, that is Roman period, only one being displayed, and two under restoration, are very impressive. These priceless helmets are considered to be made in IV century. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children and students 50 dinars. City Museum of Novi Sad D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, upper plateau, tel. (+381) 21 43 31 45. A permanent exhibition of fine and applied arts from 1748 to the middle of the 20th century. It also features an archaeological collection of artefacts from the prehistoric era, Roman period and the Middle Ages. Open 09:00 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 200 dinars, children 100 dinars. City Museum of Novi Sad - Gunboat Exhibition
D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. (+381) 21 43 31 45. An exhibition put on by the department for cultural history, featuring a selection from the collections of fine and applied arts assembled over the past five decades. All the artefacts on display are related to the people and events from the history of Novi Sad from 1748 to the middle of the 20th century. This collection will show you how people used to live in Novi Sad. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars.
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Gallery
The Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection C-2,
Trg Galerija 2, tel. 472 99 66. The legacy of Pavle Beljanski, a diplomat and art collector. The collection features paintings by finest Serbian artists of the first drawings and tapestries.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
What to see 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars.
Around Novi Sad
Fruška Gora Mountain. Fruška Gora mountain stretches over the southern border of the Panonia plain except a small western section which lies Croatia. Its habitat of rare animals and herbs, a large part of it was declared National park in 1960. During the Roman time, Emperor Probus brought the wine grapes to the Fruška Gora. Since than, the Fruška Gora slopes have well suited for grapes and there are many wine makers. The best sorts of wines are Riesling, Traminer and Bermet . Fruška Gora is close to Novi Sad (20 minutes drive), but far enough so visitors can enjoy and rest in the beautiful surroundings. This „small mountain“ also offers artificial lakes, mountain paths (800 km marked trails), two health paths (Popovica 3,5 km & The hospitable environment of Fruška Gora made possible 35 Serbian Orthodox monasteries to be built. Unfortunately, only 16 monasteries are still active. Tourist information centre of the Fruška Gora National park is located at Iriški venac, right next to monument, providing info, guide services and gift shop. Work days: every day, except Monday.
Fr u š k a G o r a m o n a s te r i e s M a n y l e ge n d s
are associated with foundation of monasteries. Ac c o rd i n g to t h e fi r s t wri t te n d o c u m e n t t h ey were founded from the15 to the 18 centur y as an endowment of Serbian despots. They are the Keepers of the identity of Serbian people. The tample, small church (some of them), bell tower, sleeping quarters, farm buildings and cultivable soil are a part of a monastery complex. Monasteries are: Krušedol, Grgeteg, Velika Remeta, Novo Hopovo, Staro Hopovo, Ravanica, Jazak, Mala Remeta, Divša, Privina Glava, Bešenovo. Notable persons from Serbian history lie buried
were ravaged and looted during the 2nd World War and they enjoy UNESCO protection (wich did not stop Nato forces from damaging six monasteries in the 1999 air campaign against Serbia).
Sremski Karlovci. A small town on the Danube bank, some 6km away from Novi Sad. It is rightly call ed a town -museum, du e to i ts remarkabl y preserved town nucleus in the baroque style, dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. You can make a tour of all the attractions on foot. The first mention of this settlement dates back from 1308. In 1713, when the see of the Orthodox Metropolitan Bishop moved to Karlovci, it became the spiritual and cultural centre of Serbs in the 18th and 19th centuries. The first Serbian grammar school opened in Karlovci in 1791 and still is functional. You can also see the Patriarchal Palace (displaying artefacts from the treasury of the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church) orthodox churches (Cathedral, Lower and Upper Churches), a Roman Catholic church, Museum
Practically within walking distance of Novi Sad, the village of Sremski Karlovci is packed with sights of the City, City Hall (Magistrat) from whose balcony Serbian Vojvodina was declared in 1848, a pharmacy in Straser house (from early 19th centur y, still functioning), ‘Four Lions’ fountain (the legend says that whoever drinks from the fountain will come back to Sremski Karlovci some day). By all means visit the museum of honey and sample wines in wine cellars. Sremski Karlovci is famous for its authentic liqueur wine, Bermet, rumoured to have been enjoyed by those on the Titanic. I f you get hungr y, pick one o f th e restaurants featuring Serbian cuisine: A Small House in Srem restaurant. Sremski Karlovic hosts various events throughout the year - ‘Brankovo kolo’ (festival of poetry), grape harvest celebration, art colonies...
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
January - June 2012
39
40
What to see Salaši Originating from the Hungarian word Szallas, which translates most directly to ‘accommodation’ in English, the Salaši found in the countryside around Novi Sad are akin to ranches, farmsteads or tourist farms in there are currently over a dozen or so of these unique attractions, with more expected to gradually open their doors over the coming years. Each of the estates offers a slightly different take on a similar theme, ranging from horse clubs and wedding venues to hands-on farm work and panoramic flight. One thing they all have in common is traditionally prepared cuisine, and most also offer some type of accommodation. in general it always best to call ahead and make reservations, or engage a local travel agent to do so.
Brkin Salaš
64 837 70 18. Also located on the main road through dating back to the early 20th century and is one of the only still fully functioning family farms in the area. It’s name, which comes from Brka or moustache in Serbian, is an homage to the original owner, Arsen who sold the farm to the family that currently operates it in 2005, under the condition that they maintain the rural farming traditions and ‘never let the farmstead’s chimneys be extinguished’. True to their word, the Matic family - Nataša, Goran and their three children - have developed the salaš into the perfect place for visitors to experience so-called ethno and eco tourism in its most ideal form. In addition to a good sized indoor dining area and terrace that can accommodate some 50 people for lunch or dinner, there are a couple of traditionally furnished rooms available for overnight stays in part of the family’s own home, and they’ve recently added a couple more basic rooms with a shared bathroom in a separate building. Reservations in advanced are required, and Goran speaks English more or less fluently.
Naš Salaš
21 714 704. We can say with a certain amount of confidence that this is the only Salaš (or tourist farm, traditional restaurant or ranch of any kind in the world) that also custom builds airworthy replicas of Luftwaffe reconnaissance planes. The model in question is the Storch, which can take up to a couple months to build and sells for the equivalent of a decent annual salary in western Europe. The plane’s unique design allows it to take off at a speed of only 35 km/hr, which it needs only 20m of runway to reach. The salaš itself is quite new, and the high steeply sloping roof of the main dining area and all wood interior gives it almost an alpine appearance - it also helps that the entire property is covered in tall evergreen trees. The meals are as hearty and delicious as one would expect, and the flow of rakija and local wines continues to the early morning at the weekends. There are also two newly built bungalows for overnight stays, which are almost scale models of the main building and can sleep up to four people. Panoramic flights of the entire region can also be arranged at the nearby airfield, although the planes used are larger and more comfortable Censnas rather than the WWII-era spy planes built out back.4Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-01:00.
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Salaš 137
714 497. Situated on an almost regal estate at the end of a treelined drive, Salaš 137 is by far the best organised and most professionally run of all the tourist farms in the countryside surrounding Novi Sad, and also offers the most to see an do. Other than the gorgeously kept estate itself, the main attraction here, or at least the one most frequented by locals and tourists alike, is the traditional Serbian restaurant, which serves many dishes that cannot be found elsewhere (at least not prepared this well). The dining areas are could also well be considered as mini ethnological museums, as the walls, shelves and cupboards are packed with various rural bric-a-brac. In a separate building there are 13 spacious rooms for hire, all individually designed in an old German style, but equipped with modern bathrooms and extras such as TVs and stereos, and there’s even an onsite sauna. For horse lovers, there is also a stable with some two dozen of the majestic creatures, and the numerous other activities available to guests include wine tastings, hunting trips, golf lessons, archery, volleyball, horse-drawn carriage rides and much more.4Reservations required. Restaurant closed on Mondays.
Cvejin Salaš Nikole Tesle 2, tel. (+381) 21 898 045. If you aren’t fortunate enough to have your own Serbian grandparents, perhaps the closest you will ever get is a visit to the farmhouse of Zvonimirka and
to the west of Novi Sad. The incredibly cute pair are actually brother and sister, and their Salaš is one of the quaintest and friendliest we’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. Although awarding any individual in Serbia the title of Best Cook is a fool’s errand, the dishes that come out of Zvonimirka’s kitchen are about as highly regarded as they come, and tucking into one of her meals should be a priority for anyone who has an appreciation for perfectly prepared food. While his sister is in the kitchen, Aleksandar can likely be found puttering around the property: mowing the lawn, trimming the lavander bushes or feeding some of the many domestic animals. The farm is quite popular with visitors from all over Europe and it’s not uncommon for large groups of cyclists, hunters or festival goers to hire the the whole place for several days at a time, staying in one of the well-worn but comfortable rooms or pitching a tent outside.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Mail & Phones Posting a letter
The postal code for Novi Sad is 21000. If you have stamps, you can pop your letters and postcards into a post box (post boxes come in different sizes and colours, but are all marked with logo Pošta) or leave them at the post office. The price of a standard letter for delivery in Serbia is 20 dinars, and for delivery worldwide 46 dinars (regardless of the destination). International mail (other than standard letters) is delivered to the post office unsealed, to allow for customs inspection if necessary.
Post
Post office C-2, Narodnih Heroja 2, tel. 61 47 08, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00
Post office
Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Post office C-2, Trg Marije Trandafil 10, tel. 42 30 85, Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun.
Express Mail
DHL C-2, Apolo Centre, Trg Slobode 3, tel. 661 48 92. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun.
Post Express, tel. (011)360 76 07. Operating in the territory of Srbija. Closed Sun.
Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00,
Making a phonecall
To call a local number within Novi Sad, dial the number directly, and to make a call to another area, dial the relevant area code first. To call abroad, dial the international access code (99), followed by the country code, the area code and the phone number. When you are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix of the mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you need to dial the area code before the phone number (the area code for Novi Sad is 021).
Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 Phone numbers information: 988 You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone booths. You will need a Halo telephone card (for local and international calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for international calls only) available at kiosks and post offices for 300 and 600 dinars respectively. A call to the UK or the USA with one Halo card will last about 8.5 and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus card allows longer calls: 40 minuta with the UK or 30 minutes with the USA. When buying Halo Plus card you must choose between three types of the card: for overseas calls, for calls to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the former Yugoslavia.
Mobile phones
There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064, 065), Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061). Pre-paid packages and recharge cards for all three networks are available at their retail shops, kiosks and supermarkets, and in case of MTS network in post offices as well.
MTS C-2, Modene 3, tel. 42 11 03, www.mts.telekom. rs.
Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Closed Sun. Vip mobile C-2, Zmaj Jovina 16, www.vipmobile.rs. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun.
Telenor C-2, Modena 1-3, www.telenor.rs.
Located at the edge of the city centre, Danube Park is full of sights
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
January - June 2012
41
42
GettinG around Taxis
Train Schedule
Avoid taxi drivers that do not belong to any taxi company (their taxi roof signs display only ‘taxi’ without stating a company name), who usually hang around the Railway station and accost travellers. They will overcharge you either by negotiating an exorbitant fare or using a fast meter. Inside the taxi, the price list and ID card of the driver must be in clear view. Your fare is shown on the meter. Taxi fare in Novi Sad is quite easy on the pocket: there is a start-up fee of 25-35 dinars and the rate per kilometre is 40 dinars. There is a luggage charge of 10 dinars per piece. You can ask the taxi driver about the hotels, restaurants, or indeed anything you would like to know about the city or local politics. Most taxi drivers are smokers, but you can request a non-smoking vehicle or simply ask the driver to extinguish the cigarette.
From Novi Sad Dep. Arr. 09:04 09:52+2 09:04 22:30 22:52 09:00
Trusted taxi companies Lux taxi, tel. 30 00 00 Novus taxi, tel. 50 07 00 Pan taxi, tel 45 55 55
Car parks
The central part of the town is divided into two parking zones: red and blue. You can pay for parking either by filling out a parking coupon or sending an SMS message. The parking is limited to two hours in the red zone (that means that you first pay for the initial hour and on its expiry, pay again), whilst in the blue zone there are no parking limits (you extend the parking on the hour). If you use the parking coupon, you should scratch the relevant fields for the year, month, day, hour and minute of the beginning of parking session and display the coupon on the inside of the windscreen. For SMS: send an SMS message with the number of the licence plates (no space, capital letters) to 8211 for the red zone and 8212 for the blue zone. The price of one hour of parking is 20 dinars. Parking at the Štrand beach can also be paid by SMS sent to number 8213.
City MOSCOW PRAGUE VIENNA
To Novi Sad Dep. Arr. 21:31 19:00+2 21:31 19:00 18:50 04:40
Schedule is subject to change. Novi Sad In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here. can buy on board, from the driver, on entering the bus. The price of the fare is 40 dinars.
Trains
Railway Station
31 99. Serbian railways are in poor repair, as a result of a long-lasting economic crisis. Railway carriages are very old and the train speed does not exceed 80km/h. Delays and inexplicable stoppage occur with maddening regularity, so if you want to travel round the country in relative speed and comfort, go for long distance buses. Those who love trains should not miss a ride on Šargan Eight (a narrow gauge heritage railway offering one of the most picturesque routes in the world). Tickets for regular local and international lines are available at Railway Station.
Buses
Bus services account for the bulk of domestic passenger traffic in Serbia. There are buses for big towns running at frequent intervals throughout the day. Novi Sad has two bus stations for international travel. Where you will end up depends on your bus operator. The Central Bus Station Sad is well linked to all parts of the town through the public transport network.
Central Bus Station
44 40 21, 44 40 22, 44 40 23
ATP Vojvodina Bus Station A-1, Novosadskog partizanskog odreda 1a, tel. 488 97 77.
Car rental
Autotehna B-3, Balzakova 29, tel. 47 45 16, www.
Public transport
Public transport in Novi Sad is fairly quick and reliable. It is comprised only of buses, whose schedule depends on the line, but most buses run at 10 to 15 minute intervals from 04:30 do 24:00. There are only single-ride tickets, which you
autotehna.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Hertz B-2, Jevrejska 23 (passage), tel. 52 97 19, www. hertz.co.yu. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00
International Bus Schedule From Novi Sad Days Dep. --3--612:00 --3---12:30 ------7 14:30 -----67 12:30 1234567 12:30 1234567 12:30 1---5-7 09:30 13:00 1234567 12:30 ------7 09:15 --3---13:15 1234567 12:15 1234567 12:30 1234567 09:30 1234567 11:00 -2---619:15
Arr. 18:55 13:00 15:30 13:00 16:00 10:15 22:15 15:00 04:00 01:30 05:30 20:30 07:00 15:30 17:30 15:50
Destination AMSTERDAM BERLIN BERLIN BERLIN DORTMUND FRANKFURT GÖTEBORG GÖTEBORG MUNCHEN PRAGUE PRAGUE SARAJEVO STUTGART ZAGREB ZAGREB ZURICH
To Novi Sad Days --3--6-2--------5-------61234567 1234567 ----5-7 ----5-1234567 1---------5-1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -2---5-
Dep. 07:00 10:00 10:00 10:00 06:00 12:45 00:00 22:00 19:30 18:00 18:00 13:30 16:00 08:00 09:00 16:00
Arr. 13:55 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 12:40 22:00 10:30 09:45 09:45 21:30 10:30 14:00 15:20 14:15
Schedule is subject to change. Novi Sad In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here.
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
novisad.inyourpocket.com
January - June 2012
44
BelGraDe National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet), Trg Republ ike 1, tel . (+381) 11 26 20 946, www.narodnopozoriste.co.rs. Beograd Gallery 30 33 923, www.galerijabeograd.org. 4Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
Sightseeing
Arriving… By car
Belgrade lies at the intersection of the E-70 and E-75 motorways. You cannot miss the city, since the motorway runs close to the centre, a ring-road still being under construction. The speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs.
By train
The Central Railway Station is located near the Old Town. Beside the Central Bus Station, this is probably the only place in town where you should beware of pickpockets. The station offers exchange offices, ATMs, left luggage office, and a tourist info centre. When you exit the station, ignore the taxi sharks and hail one a little down the street, if you should so wish. There is a tram stop outside the station building, and line N°2, which circles around Old Town, may be the most convenient. Purchase your fare at a kiosk or on board (29 or 40 dinars respectively). If the prospect of a steep 300m climb does not seem too daunting, you can walk up Balkanska Street and reach the heart of the city - Terazije.
By bus
The Central Bus Station sits next to the Central Railway Station, so the same warnings about pickpockets and taxi crooks apply here. The same goes for the info on how to get to the city centre. The station features exchange offices, ATMs and left luggage office. You can find a tourist info centre at the neighbouring railway station.
Culture
Belgrade Arena
(+381) 11 220 22 22, www.arenabeograd.com Dom omladine (Belgrade Youth Center) C-2, Makedonska 22, tel. (+381) 11 324 82 02, www. domomladine.org
Dom sindikata
32 34 849.
Expo XXI Centre Španskih boraca 74A, tel. (+381) 11 328 40 74, www.expoxxi.rs
Guarnerius
52 37, www.guarneris.rs Kolarac (Ilija M. Kolarac Foundation) C-2, Studentski trg 5, tel. (+381) 11 263 05 50, www.kolarac.rs
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
Belgrade fortress Located on a hill overlooking the confluence of the Sava River and the Danube. The Romans were the first to build a fort (castrum) on this site and in the late 1st century AD, it became the HQ of the IV Flavian Legion. Over the centuries of sieges, battles and conquests, the fortress was repeatedly razed to the ground, rebuilt and restructured. It took on its present shape round the end of the 18th century, but again, the wars that followed destroyed nearly all the buildings. The Belgrade Fortress consists of Upper Town, Lower Town and Kalemegdan Park. Kalemegdan Park was created as late as the 19th century on a plateau in front of the fortress, which was cleared for centuries to allow for an unobstructed view of the advancing enemy. The park is popular because of its many shaded benches, random sculptures, an art pavilion, zoo, amusement park and souvenir vendors. It is a favourite haunt for chess players, squirrels and couples in love. Knez Mihailova Street The main promenade and shopping zone. A pedestrian area, it stretches between Terazije and Kalemegdan Park. It is named after Prince Serbia and the younger son of Prince Miloš. He came to the throne after his father’s death in 1860 and was assassinated during a stroll through Košutnjak Park in 1868. Buildings and mansions erected in the late 19th century adorn the street. Skadarlija Skadarska Street. A vintage street that dates from the late 19th century. This steep cobbled area is dotted with famous Belgrade taverns: Dva jelena (The Two Deers), Tri šešira (The Three Hats), Dva bela goluba (The Two White Pigeons), Zlatni bokal (The Golden Jug), Ima dana (There’s Time), Šešir moj (This Hat of Mine), galleries, antiques and souvenir shops. In the early 20th century, it became a hub for the arts and artists in Belgrade, a bohemian quarter drawing poets, journalists, painters, and actors. Today, its guests are mostly tourists whose presence accounts for the higher prices and removal of many authentic Serbian dishes from the menus. The evening is the best time for a visit, when live traditional Serbian music spills from all tavern doors. The great atmosphere will take your attention away from run of the mill food and indifferent waiters.
Tourist information Information Centres of the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade - T O B: Belgrade Port (from March 15 untill November 15) , tel. (+381) 11 32 88 246. Open 08:00 - 19:00 Nikola Tesla Airport tel. (+381) 11 20 97 828, infoaerodrom@serbia.travel. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Central Railway Station tel. (+381) 11 36 12 732, bginfo.stanica@tob.co.rs. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Knez Mihailova 6 tel. (+381) 11 32 81 859, bginfo. knezmihailova@ tob.co.rs Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
CaFÉs Every morning there’s a hearty breakfast on offer at 09:00, and from 13:00-17:00 on Sundays you can enjoy a special menu and live music during Jazz Brunch. Open 09:00-02:00 ABPESLR
Hotels
Park Njegoševa 2-4, (+381) 364 03 83. A hotel right smack in the centre of the city, this is well equiped place with all the amenities required for a pleasant stay. One key feature is the in-house gym which can be used free-ofcharge and massages and relaxation in the Jakuzzi can be enjoyed at discount rates.The restaurant serves domestic and international cuisine, and also lays on business lunches, cocktails, banquets, weddings receptions. 128 rooms (singles €40-65, doubles €70-90, triples €105-125, suites €90-100). Price include breakfast. ABPLR Continental
Restaurants
Francuska 7, (+381) 11 262 79 31. One of the oldest restaurants in the city centre, the building being old about 150 years. Guests like Alberto once made it a meeting point of writers and artists(you needed a membership card to enter!). Restaurant had been redecorated, but has retained the spirit of the old days. It also has a large summer garden. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00 ABPSR€€€
La Bodega Cara Uroša 18, (+381) 11 2030 456,
(+381) 64 899 35 44. Serving up a panoply of Latin inspired dishes from the likes of Spain, Portugal, Cuba, Mexico and Argentina in a colourful vibrant setting, the recently opened La Bodega has become one of favourite spots to grab a slightly exotic meal. Well-known Latin standards are supplemented with an ample selection of extras such as several games meats (including wild boar and deer), as well as a small selection of fish dishes. Visit on Friday or Saturday to dine with live music. ABPESLR€€.
04, www.continentalhotelbeograd.com. Situated in New Belgrade and attached to the Sava Congress Centre, this spacious hotel is only a five minute drive from the city centre. It belonged to the Intercontinental Hotel chain until recently. The hotel lobby is as big as a terminal in a small airport, with rooms that are large but decorated in a style that must have seemed the height of fashion in the 1980s. There is a banquet hall and a health club with a swimming pool, sauna and fitness area. The staff is very responsive to customers’ needs. 415 rooms and 15 suites (singles €140-160, doubles €150-170, suites €230-600). Prices include VAT and breakfast (buffet).
Moskva Balkanska 1, (+381) 11 268 62 55, info@ hotelmoskva.rs, www.hotelmoskva.rs. This elegant hotel on Terazije Square is one of the symbols of Belgrade. The Art Nouveau building was constructed in 1907 and is now a protected building. The rooms are furnished with authentic period furniture and an impressive collection of paintings. It is also the only hotel outside Russia which bears the name ‘Moscow’. For many Belgraders, the pastry shop on the ground level is a favourite venue for a meeting over coffee, and some of the famous cakes. 120 rooms and 6 suites (singles €90, doubles €129, suites €297). Prices include VAT and English breakfast. ABPLR
Little Bay Dositejeva 9a, (+381) 328 89 95, www.littlebay.co.uk. An unusual interior this, reminiscent of an opera setting with the waiters dressed in 18th century costumes. Although the menu is sparse, each carefully-designed dish is exquisitely prepared. The restaurant has both traditional tables and isolated booths named after the world’s greatest composers. During the day you can enjoy famous opera tunes, and in the evenings live performances of other popular classics. And the icing on the cake? The food in this restaurant is among the cheapest in town! Open 11:00 01:00 ABPESR€ Supermarket
office@supermarket.rs, supermarket.rs. Belgrade’s unique Supermarket concept store is home to one of the city’s trendiest restaurants. Featuring a varied international menu devised by Dutch head chef Sem Veldheer, a beautiful open kitchen and a bar running almost the entire length of the building, it’s worth visiting even if for those not in the mood to peruse the selection of goods in other parts of the store.
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
January - June 2012
45
46
LifestyLe directory Health
Raiffeisen Bank
Clinics & Hospitals Ambulace B-2. tel. 94
21 488 66 00
(+381) 21 488 01 44
Clinical Centre of Vojvodina BBB, Hajduk Veljka 1, tel. (+381) 21 484 34 84. Emergency Centre (on duty 24hrs). Private practices
(+381) 21 52 52 61. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun.
NS Lab
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun.
Dentists
Oral B
B-3, Narodnog fronta 20, tel. (+381) 21 46 70 06. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 13:00, Closed Sun. Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours)
Viva
662 23 34.
(+381) 21
Banks
Banca Intesa Erste Bank 201 201
Komercijalna Bank B-2, Kralja Petra I 11, tel. (+381) 21 52 12 86
Meridian Bank-Credit Agricole Group
Bank C-2, Trg slobode 5-7, tel. (+381)
Business connections
Privredna komora Vojvodine B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. (+381) 21 480 37 03 Poslovni centar NIS B-3, Narodnog fronta 12, tel. (+381) 21 481 20 33
Business facilities
Kongresni centar Master B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. (+381) 21 483 07 77, www.kongresnicentar. sajam.net Sportsko-poslovni centar Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 488 23 20, www.spens.rs
Lawyers (+381) 21 472 04 12, www.lawoffice.rs
Office furniture
Astra , tel. (+381) 21 641 15 14, www.astrans.net Ivex B-3, Cara Dušana 26, tel. (+381) 21 46 90 25, www.ivexns.co.rs
Ribnikar 4-6, tel. (+381) 21 487 68 76 Razvojna Banka Vojvodine C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 25, tel. (+381) 21 557347 NLB Bank C-2, Trg Mladenaca 1-3, tel. (+381) 21 661 55 00
Proverbum B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11/IV, tel. (+381) 21 472 52 27, www.proverbum.com.
21 68 93 756
Vojvodine C-3, Resavska 3, tel. (+381) 21 635 06 64
Piraeus Bank
Translators
Varadinski Most leads into central Novi Sad from Petrovaradin in the east, and is beautifully illuminated at night
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
liFestyledirectory DireCtory LifestyLe Shopping centres
www.inyourpocket.com
Apolo Centre C-2, Trg slobode 3, tel. (+381) 21 52 38 88.
Open 06:00-22:00, Closed Sun.
Bazar C-2, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 1, tel. (+381) 21 52 39 87.
Open 09:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-18:00.
Mercator
08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Open
Pariski magazin C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 12. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 488 22 22.
Open 06:30 - 22:00.
Spa & Beauty Salons
Dermomedica C-2, Dunavska 28, tel. (+381) 21 45 66 13. Fit-vibe, LPG, Hair & Skin IPL.
Regina B-2, Gogoljeva 13, tel. (+381) 21 54 25 92. Beauty parlour, solarium, body treatments.
Sports Archery NS 2002 D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, Hornwerk 22, tel. (+381) 21 26 60 02 Swiming Pools
SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina B-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 488 22 95.
Sports Centre Sajmište, tel. (+381) 21 661 58 16. Outdoor swiming pool. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 180 dinars, children 120 dinars. Tennis
SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina B-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. (+381) 21 52 13
32.
Open 07:00 - 22:00 1 hour 350-800 dinars.
Opticians
Look & Look B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 92, tel. (+381)
Fitness Clubs
Flex C-2, Sutjeska 2 (SPENS), tel. (+381) 21 488 22 43. Body building and Fitness Center.
Gymnas Hotel B-3, Teodora Pavlovica 28, tel. (+381)
21 54 46 44. Closed Sun
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00,
Photo service
21 46 92 85. Exercise Gym, Sauna, Massage Service. Mean Machine Fitness Center B-2, Omladinskog pokreta 7-9, tel. (+381) 21 50 41 84. Ladies only.
21 477 00 00
Key cuts
Shoe repair
late at night call tel. (+381) 63 68 05 65.
633 04 22. Closed Sun
Tresor A-3, Stevana hladnog bb. If you lock yourself out
Dry cleaners
Elegant B-3, Lasla Gala 9, tel. (+381) 21 661 51 15.
Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Pop’s B -2, Mercator Shopping Centre, Bulevar Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Launderettes Una
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun.
Libraries
City Library C-2, Dunavska 1, tel. (+381) 21 45 12 33.
Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun.
Matica Srpska Library C-2, Matice srpske 1, tel. (+381) 21 42 01 99. 13:30, Closed Sun.
Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 -
Money transfer
Western Union, tel. (+381) 011 330 03 00. Money transfers from abroad can be collected from most banks in Novi Sad, in EUR only.
www.inyourpocket.com novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Canon M
Krle B-2, Bulevar Kralja Petra I 26, tel. (+381) 21
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00,
Bookshops
Mamut Megastore C-2, Zmaj Jovina 15, tel. (+381) 21 661 41 31.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.
IPS Bazar Store C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. (+381) 21 423-810. 09:00 - 17:00.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
Gifts & Souvenirs City gallery
, tel. (+381) 21 421 651, 063 85 99 318, www.citygallery. co.rs, martas@neobee.net, Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00 Ister souvenir Dunavska 8, tel. (+381) 21 52 76 62, istersuvenir@yahoo.com Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00 Tradicija B-2, Jevrejska 23 (Passage Papilon), tel. (+381) 63 36 40 02. Orthodox Icons. Open 09:30 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun.
Markets
Futoška pijaca B-2, Jevrejska 42, tel. (+381) 21 661
67 42.
Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00.
49 27,
Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00.
Riblja pijaca C-2, Trg Republike 18, tel. (+381) 21 52
January - June 2012
47
1
2
3
Novi Sad
50
Index Serbia
Novi Sad In Your Pocket
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Index inDeX Absolut ACenter Birotel Adice Aleksandar Apolo Centre Aqua Doria Arena Arhiv Astal šaren ATP Vojvodina Bus Station Babareeba Baltazar Bazar
34 27 28 24 47 33 20 30 32 43 30 34 47
Beer bar Brod Bonaca Apartments Bookstore-caffe Nublu
35 28 34
Brankovo kolo Bunker Hill Car Royal Apartments The Cathedral Central Bus Station Chicken Tikka City Library City Museum of Novi Sad Clinical Centre of Vojvodina Club Soul Cuba-Libre
28 35 28 39 43 30 47 39 46 35 34
The Danube Park Downtown Duga
39 28 27
Elite
26
Filip Fish&zeleniš Fontana Foxtrot Francuz Fruška Gora mountain Futoška pijaca Garden Giardino Greenet Gusan Gymnas Hedonist Ile de France Jadran Jang Ce Jatak Jelisavetin bastion
28 33 28 35 31 40 47 31 35 34 32 27 34 27 20 30 30 35
Kazamat KCNS Kongresni centar Master
35 20 46
Lazin hostel Leopold I Lipa London club
28 26 32 35
Martha's Pub Mediteraneo Mercator Museum of Vojvodina Novi Sad Ognjište Orhideja Osam tamburaša Panorama Pariski magazin
35 27 47 39 26 32 30 33 26 47
novi_sad.inyourpocket.com
Park Parobrod Pasha Petrovaradin Fortress Planeta Inn Plava frajla Plaf Off Pomodoro rosso Poslovni centar NIS Privredna komora Vojvodine Prezident Railway Station Riblja pijaca Rimski Ritmo Latino Route 66 RST Club Saborna Church Sajam Salaš 137
26 33 31 37 26 33 33 32 46 46 26 43 47 27 36 36 36 39 26 24
Serbian National Theatre Skipper Skocko's bar
20 36 36
Sports Centre Sajmište Sportsko-poslovni centar Vojvodine Sterija St. Nicholas Church Surabaya Synagogue Štrand beach Tamara Tourist organisation of Novi Sad Travica
Dunavska Dunavske Divizije
C-2 D-2
Feješ Klare Fruškogorska Futoška Futoški put Gimnazijska Gornji put
A-3 C-3 B-2 A-3 C-2 C-3
Hajduk Veljkova Heroja Pinkija
B-2 A-3
Ignjata Pavlasa
C-2
Jevrejska
B-2
Kej Skojevaca
C-2
Kralja Aleksandra Krušedolska Lasla Gala
C-2 D-3 B-3
51
Njegoševa
C-2
Omladinskog pokreta
B-2
Partizanska
B-1
Petefi Šandora
A-3
Put Novosadskog partizanskog odreda Put Šajkaškog odreda Puškinova
A-1 C-1 B-3
Sentandrejski put Sime Matavulja
B-1 B-3
S. Mitrova Ljubiše Somborska Stanoja Glavaša
B-2 A-3 A-3
Sutjeska
C-2
Štrosmajerova Šumadijska Temerinska Tolstojeva Uspenska
C-2 C-2 C-1 B-3 C-2
Venizolosovska Vladana Desnice
C-1 D-2
Vukovarska Zmaj Jovina Zmaj Ognjena Vuka
D-3 C-2 B-2
47 49 36 39 30 38 37 28 6 33
Ujvideki Szinhaz
20
Vigor Vojvodina Voyager Vremeplov Wheels Youth Theatre Zenit
27 27 28 34 30 20 28
Maksima Gorkog
C-2
Marka Miljanova Matice Srpske
C-2 C-2
Narodnih heroja Narodnog fronta Nikole Tesle Novosadskog sajma
C-2 B-3 B-2 B-2
Street register Balkanska Beogradska Beogradski kej
C-1 C-2 C-2
Bulevar Cara Lazara Bulevar Despota Stefana Bulevar Kralja Petra I
B-3 B-3 B-2
Bulevar Mihajla Pupina
C-2
Bulevar Revolucije Bulevar Slobodana
B-2
Bulevar Vojvode Stepe Cara Dušana
A-2 B-3
Danila Kiša Donji put
B-3 C-3
January - June 2012