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yummy
FOOD DRINK LIFE
Volume 2
SEAFOOD ISSUE
FROM LAMU TO ZANZIBAR
FROM HEAD TO TENTACLE
FROM JOBURG TO NAIROBI
A guide to restaurants for seafood lovers along Kenya’s epic coastline
The story of the octopus and why it is a big hit with local gastronomes
How Ocean Basket will make us addicted to Champagne and shellfish
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EDITORIAL
WELCOME BACK, Right after our first issue on Coffee hit the streets last month, we started thinking up ways to keep you salivating, but also looked for a theme that would tell the story behind the restaurants that serve the food we feature. That’s how we came up with the idea for a Seafood Issue. As the global demand for fresh, healthy and nutritious seafood continues to grow it seems that the seafood craze has finally caught on here, as well. Open any menu, from low-end budget city centre fast food joint to expensive upscale Westlands restaurants and you will find a seafood menu fishy enough to whet your appetite. From Kilifi oysters to Diani or Mtwapa octopus and everything else in between, this manna from the Indian Ocean, the stuff Kenyan fishermen pull out of the deep blue sea, is either consumed directly at the coast or shipped, prepared, cooked and enjoyed here in the capital city. But there is more to that story—the one of the local fishermen for whom setting traps, casting a net, throwing a line is one of the few economic activities that fills their growing subsistence needs and the one of the tons of seafood that’s flown in, shipped in, trucked in our city from neighbouring or far away countries.
The questions we asked ourselves while preparing this issue is how, as the needs of our fishermen and our taste for nutritious and healthy seafood grows, will the issues of overfishing and protection of our natural resources be addressed? And how can we, as citizens of the world, justify eating food that’s coming in from the other side of the world. As a food magazine, we don’t pretend to be, nor intend to become political. However, out of respect for our well-informed and highly-critical readers, we thought we should ask these questions. For a big blue experience where we review seafood in all its forms -- alive, dead, beaten to death, cooked, and paired -- forward to our Seafood guide where we begin our seafaring adventure with the journey of an octopus from the coastal town of Diani to the tables of one of Nairobi’s gourmet restaurants. We then move on to whet your appetite with fishy recipes and unveil the
new red-wine-paired-with-seafood phenomenon. We travel the coastal length from Lamu all the way to Zanzibar to bring you a list of coastal restaurants where your taste buds can get hooked on the best catch of the day the coast has to offer. Our foodie-in-residence Susan Wong stops in and reviews a few dishes at the newly opened Ocean Basket and declares it officially ‘off the hook’. We start a conversation with home-grown Chef Joseph Gacheru where he speaks for the local ingredients. Man About Town, Jackson Biko, people watches as he sips pricey whisky at The Explorer Tavern and Charity Keita recounts how she successfully threw a dinner party she wishes she hadn’t. Anies Peillet reveals how wine can turn perfectly down-to-earth women into hysterical broom riding witches.
That’s it for now. The team and I have gone fishing. Until next month!
Hiyabel Tewoldemedhin General Manager EatOut Africa
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CONTENT 8
NEWS AND EVENTS Yummy takes you through a month of food and drinks on the town
14 NEW RESTAURANTS Get the scoop on all the latest openings and foodie happenings
18 MY LIFE AS A FOODIE Charity Keita creates a new dish under the pressure of a dinner party she did not plan.
22 CHEF INTERVIEW Joseph Gacheru could be one of the best chefs cooking in Nairobi right now. Learn how he keeps it local.
20 REVIEW: OCEAN BASKET Susan Wong declares the latest arrival to the local restaurant scene, ’off the hook’
24 FOODIE REVIEWS Yummy contributors give you the latest dish on area restaurants
28 COFFEE From Ethiopian coffee traditions to coffee jam recipes, Kahawa Diaries keeps you caffinated
37 WELLNESS Over indulging in Omega-3s is bad advice. Find out why
38 RECIPES From traditional fish & chips to lobster thermidor we have four classic seafood recipes to impress your dinner guests
40 MAN ON THE TOWN Jackson Biko continues his quest for enlightenment through whisky at Explorer Tavern
41 MIXOLOGY
30 FEATURE: LAMU TO ZANZIBAR We take you 536 kms along the Kenya Coast in search of the best restaurants serving seafood
What drinks go best with seafood? It dosen’t matter. Try these classic recipes at home, food or no food
42 WINE
Our local Wine Chick has a boozey formula for revenge and a lesson on seafood pairing
46 DESSERT Is sorbet the new ice cream? Probably not, but it’s better for you, anyway
YUMMY No. 01 · November 2014 · Published by EatOut and UP Magazine, all rights reserved. FOR EATOUT: MANAGING DIRECTOR Mikul Shah GM Hiyabel Tewoldemedhin YUMMY TEAM Hinal Shah, Jean Wandimi, Kelvin Jayanoris, Liz Maelane, Mary Mahinda, Wahid Osman, Yoga David SALES & OPERATIONS Daniel Muthaini, Devna Vadgama, Yvonne Malebe FOR UP MAGAZINE: CREATIVE DIRECTOR Rand Pearson COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Sapna Chandaria MANAGING EDITOR Katy Fentress PROJECT EDITOR Anies Peillet GRAPHIC DESIGN Rachel Mwangi CONTRIBUTORS Susan Wong, Jackson Biko, Charity Keita, Amy Selbach SALES INQUIRIES Call Yummy, 0711 22 22 22 PUBLISHING INQUIRIES Call UP Magazine, 0733 42 27 26
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PLAY MY SONG Acoustic Sessions with Magnum Artcaffe, The Oval For a night of laughter, amazing cocktails and smooth live music, look no further than Artcaffe Acoustic Sessions at Artcaffe Oval. Sponsored by Magnum Cream Liqueur, the Wednesday evening sessions are a celebration of soft rock, funk, blues & RnB by the talented Jacob Asiyo Band and guest artists. Customers can also take advantage of the ongoing Happy Hour offer at the Oval, with half price cocktails from 4-7pm, every weekday.
PERFECT MATCH 5 Course Whisky Pairing at Que Pasa For the second time, Que Pasa’s talented Chef Anthony will orchestrate a mouthwatering 5-course Single Malt Whisky dinner. If the last menu, with items like orange cured smoked salmon and pan roasted duck wellington, is anything to go by, you’re in
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for a special treat. Diageo’s Brand Ambassador Douglas Duncanson will lead the pairing which will feature Lagavulin, Singleton, Glenkinchie and Dalwhinnie. Book now on EatOut’s website and take your love of whisky to the next level!
NEWS & EVENTS
THE ART OF ZEN Zen Garden launches recipe cookbook Zen Garden is coming to your kitchen! The first ever Restaurant Cookbook in Kenya will enable you to create the Zen experience at home. The Bamboo Edition features some of their most loved
dishes, including spring rolls, Asian salads, Thai curries, colourful sushi rolls and more. This exciting book of tasty secrets will be available at Zen Garden from December 2014.
ARABIC DELIGHTS The Middle East Gastronomic Food Fair at The Intercontinental Nairobi
JINGLE BELLS Nairobi Christmas Fair 2014 Ngong Racecourse It’s that time of year again! On 6th and 7th December, Ngong Racecourse will play host to the vibrant and much-loved Nairobi Christmas Fair. Featuring food, jewelry, fashion and arts & crafts, the purpose of the Fair is to raise funds for charity. Come browse and get your Christmas shopping done! It’s all for a good cause!
For a one-of-a-kind Middle Eastern Gastronomic Food Fair stop by the Inter-continental and sample one of the many flavourful dishes like the Tabbouleh, Lebanese Cheese Sambusek, Hummus, toasty Pitta Bread, Kibbeh and mouthwatering
Shawarmas. For a taste of this unique cuisine which rarely makes it to local restaurants, pay a visit to the Intercontinental. Running from Monday 17 November to 29 November.
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NEW RESTAURANTS
A SPARKLING AFFAIR Sankara Champagne Pairing At 7:30pm on the 5th and 6th December, the Wine Company will be hosting a lovely evening of fine food and even finer bubbles from the Champagne house of Laurent Perrier. Founded in 1816, the prestigious champagne brand has come a long way in crafting the perfect range of bottles. Don’t miss the opportunity to taste a heavenly glass from the quaint Champagne village of Tours-sur-Marne. Coupled with an exquisite tasting menu, there is every reason to get booking soon. Tickets are at Kshs. 5, 500 per person, all inclusive.
ON THE GRILL Live Grilling at Karen Country Lodge All roads lead to Karen Country Lodge on Friday the 28th of November for their Live Grilling dinner event from 7pm till midnight. Enjoy a fully loaded tasty buffet menu at only Ksh. 1800 per person to the backdrop of awesome music by Sumo Sounds. If you are a lover of good food, good music and live barbecues then this is definitely where your want to be.
DOWN BY THE LAKE BBQ Live Festival at Lake Naivasha Resort
SHAKEN NOT STIRRED Love Whisky Festival 2014 Set up as an introduction to the world of whisky, the 2014 EABL Love Whisky Festival is a unique and lively festival where whiskey lovers discover their own personal relationship with the drink. The festival, which will be running until 12 December in restaurants, bars and nightclubs all around Nairobi will feature a wide variety of whiskey. For more details, keep an eye on the Yummy blog yummy.co.ke/features/lovewhisky
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Looking for a great way to spend your Jamhuri weekend? Try friends, music, sunshine, icy drinks and the lush green shores of lake naivasha and you have one of the hottest events just outside the city. Pitch a tent at Lake Naivasha Resort on the 13th and 14th December and enjoy activities such as cycling, boat rides and of course, barbecuing! If you’re up to it, take part in one of their grueling bbq challenges and win great prizes. Ticket prices are: early bird - Kshs. 1200, advance Kshs. 1500 and tickets at the door are Kshs. 2000. Visit the BBQ Live Facebook page for more information and to read about great packages for the weekend.
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Lavington Curve Mall 2nd Floor, Above Nakumatt James Gichuru Road
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Tel: 0723 111 999 Facebook.com/adegakenya www.adega.co.ke
PICTORIAL
Simphiwe Dana’s dreamy traditional sounds had everyone stomping and grooving late into the night.
LET’S KOROGA
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NEW RESTAURANTS
CENTRE STAGE
Artcaffe’s latest branch at Yaya Centre brings life to the ground floor atrium Start the day with a cup of freshly brewed coffee, pastries and fresh baked bread. Relax with a glass of sangria or wine in the afternoon, and end the day over a candlelit dinner and delectable desserts. Do all this and more at the newly opened Artcaffe Yaya Centre branch. Conveniently located in the mall’s atrium, Artcaffe offers a fresh, modern and cozy environment to take a break from shopping or the general bustle of the mall. Artcaffe’s Marketing Manager, Njeri Kariuki, had the following to say about the new branch: “Our main goal was to provide a modern space for clients to relax, have meetings or catch up with friends over a great meal and of course, our famous coffee, and our décor is a reflection of this with large printed screens providing some privacy and seclusion and a relaxed ambience. We are excited for the addition of our Yaya Centre branch to the Artcaffe family, to serve customers in the greater Kilimani and Hurlingham areas.”
HOLY MOLY Mr Donut debuts at TRM The ultimate doughnut shop has landed at Thika Road Mall. Within its first week of operation, this quality doughnut brand became very popular at the mall, perhaps because they are the only donut shop in Kenya that offers Cronuts. Yes, we said it, a cronut: a croissant and a doughnut combined to make one tear-inducing, sugary miracle of baking. Aside from this, their prices are pretty amazing too. One donut from Mr. Donut will set you back KShs. 120, however, you can take advantage of their value pack offers and get 4 donuts for KShs. 400, or a box of 8 for KSh. 720. They also offer free delivery for surrounding areas and charged delivery for other parts of Nairobi. Most Kenyans might think that donuts aren’t much more than glorified mandazis, but after sampling Mr. Donut, you quickly get an idea of why Homer Simpson loves them so much! With their sticky and crisp exteriors that softly crush into their fluffy centers with each bite - it’s a culinary encounter that can only truly be understood through experience. So pop over to Thika Road Mall and try them for yourself.
MEALS ON WHEELS Naked Pizza Food Truck Your favorite guilt-free pizza has some sweet new wheels! In many cities around the world, food trucks are becoming an overwhelmingly popular method of dining. This is mostly because they get to access different parts of the city each day, thus widening their customer reach
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without breaking the bank. Choose from any of their delicious glutenfree pizzas. Try the Mediterranean with sundried tomatoes, olives and feta or the Smokehouse, with bbq sauce, red onion and chicken! Keep up with the food truck’s movements on their Facebook page or Twitter.
KEMPINSKI VILLA ROSA PROUDLY PRESENTS 88.
Asian-inspired cuisine presented with a contemporary, delicate flair. Glamorous dining. Gastronomic artistry. Theatre kitchen. Charmed living.
OPENING 1 ST DECEMBER 2014
CONTACT US FOR MORE INFORMATION AND OPENING SPECIALS +254 703 049 000 | www.kempinski.com/nairobi
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NEW RESTAURANTS
YOU SCREAM Cold Stone Creamery gives Nairobi the ice cream it deserves! With peppy staff-members who break into song at any given moment, Cold Stone Creamery has found a new home in Nairobi. If you’ve ever been lucky enough to experience the genius that is Cold Stone, you can now get your favorite crazy treats at Fortis Tower in Westlands! For those who aren’t familiar with the tasty brand, Cold Stone has made a name for itself by offering a fun spin on the classic ice cream parlor. Go wild and create the ice cream of your dreams; you could
easily have French Vanilla with pie crust, caramel fudge sauce, brownie chunks, M&Ms and roasted almonds! Your ice cream flavor gets scooped up, laid flat on an icy marble surface, doused with all your favourite toppings and then mashed into one ball of delicious magical goodness that’ll make you forget all your problems. Seriously, it’s that good. They also offer signature smoothies, shakes and mouthwatering cakes. If this place doesn’t put a smile on your face, not much else will.
THE DOMINO’S EFFECT Domino’s Pizza now delivering to your neighbourhood! The world-famous Dominos brand has officially opened its doors to the public and is now serving at Fortis Towers in Westlands. Domino’s have been cooking with love for decades, with their first small pizza store having opened in 1960. Today there are over 11,000 stores, a handful of them now opening in the heart of East Africa! The hard-working Domino’s team ran us through the entire pizza creation process from “order” to “box”. At the restaurant, it should take approximately 10 minutes from the time the order
leaves your lips to the time a piping hot pizza slice should be in your mouth. Domino’s also offers a wide-reaching delivery service that strives to uphold the international standards of its brand. Choose from exciting flavours such as the meaty Extravaganza, the classic Regina, the Zesty Veggie and the Kenyaninfluenced, Swahili Chicken. With unbeatable prices, diverse toppings and sizes to suit every kind of appetite, it’s very hard to say no. But why would you?
SOMEONE SAY MASALA The world’s largest vegetarian restaurant chain now in Nairobi Located in Victoria Plaza on Parklands Road is a new branch of this globally popular Indian vegetarian restaurant chain. Saravanaa Bhavan’s aim is to showcase the diversity and creativity of regional Indian cooking. The warm ambience, and extensive menu is
proof of this. Crack open some crispy pani pori and drizzle with their mouthwatering homemade chutneys and relishes. Savor their amazing masala dosas or their spicy potato curries. Vegetarian or not, you’re sure to leave satisfied and wanting more.
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COLUMN TEXT CHARITY KEITA
Spaghetti Chinoise! … a game changer for me & I take full credit for inventing it.
W
hat was I thinking? With everything that I have on my plate at the moment I invited my boss to dinner? What on earth could have possessed me to do such a thing? And to make it worse his wife will be there too. Christelle is so infinitely stuck up, all she ever wants is to tell us how provincial our lives are compared to the glamorous life she left behind in Paris. I just wish she’d stay at home with her precious shitzu Mignon (dubbed Minion at the office) and do her nails, or sext her lover, or whatever it is that ex-pat trophy wives are expected to do these days. Well, it’s done now. No point in crying over spilled milk, or spilled wine as the case may be. If only I hadn’t knocked that glass of rose’ over Tim (the aforementioned boss) at last Friday’s office party, then I wouldn’t have found myself extolling
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MY LIFE AS A FOODIE Where food lover Charity Keita is faced with the daunting task of cooking up something delicious for a dinner she might not have planned could she have avoided it. the virtues of drinking rose’ on my porch when the sun is setting and the monkeys are hurling abuse from the trees at Tyrion, my adorable rotweiller. And maybe if I hadn’t had a couple of glasses of wine before said spillage, I wouldn’t have enthusiastically invited both boss and charming wife for dinner, so they too could enjoy the precious scene. I have precisely twenty minutes to get to the fishmonger before it closes. Luckily for me I stored the number of Aloha Foods, Nairobi’s best fishmonger, last time I dropped by. This means that I had the foresight yesterday to call in and place an order, which means that I won’t have to select some old glazey-eyed red snapper that no one else has wanted all day, but instead have four dozen Kilifi oysters (20 bob each, shucked. Who can complain?) and half a kilo of Malindi prawns waiting on ice. Back at home, I’m busy grating
copious amounts of ginger and garlic, the cornerstone of my famous dish: Spaghetti Chinoise! This dish has been a game changer for me and I take full credit for inventing it. The idea popped up one day when I was staying at North Coast with my fiancé (then boyfriend, but that’s another story for another time) Luan, who is Portuguese/Mozambican. The concept is incredibly simple: surf and turf with an oriental twist! The secret to Spaghetti Chinoise is to cook all the ingredients separately and then combine them at the end with a cubed ripe avocado (don’t mush it up too much, it messes with the consistency of the sauce). Basically what you do is first caramelise the garlic and ginger and set them aside. Next you take some pork or beef mince and fry it until it is almost crunchy (I add a bit of fish sauce and soy sauce for moisture at the beginning). Next take the shrimp and stir fry them on a high flame with
a bit of sesame oil. At this point your spaghetti should have been thrown in the large pot of boiling salted water. When the spaghetti is almost done, stick the reserved ingredients back into the pan, mix them up properly and then once the spaghetti has been drained, stick it all in a bi pot with the avocado thrown in last. Easy, no? In the end even Christelle couldn’t say no to a second helping of spaghetti. And that was after she’d wolfed down almost twenty oysters. Luan is launching into a conversation with Tim about why ISIL is in fact more fundamentalist than IS, which for me signals it’s time to clear up. I thought it was going to be a torture but in the end I even managed to squeeze a few words out of Christelle who, poor soul, isn’t that bad after all. Not bad for a dinner I whipped up in half an hour!
Buon appetito! La Dolce Vita Ristorante & Pizzeria Muthaiga Shopping Centre Limuru Road, Nairobi 0722 624100 / 020 4049945 / 020 4049447 19.
www.eatout.co.ke/ladolcevita
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Ocean Basket, The Oval
OFF THE HOOK I am a Canadian girl, born and raised. There are certain things I miss about living in Toronto – the vibrant colours of Autumn leaves, the smell of Maple and Pine trees in the air and the abundance of fresh seafood at the ready.
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Without an ample and diverse supply of high quality fresh seafood because of the high prices of flying it in, many chefs in Nairobi lack a repertoire of inspired seafood dishes. An occasional special on a menu or seafood brought in frozen is often the most common dining option. As seafood dishes pop-up every so often, I generally approach them with caution and unfortunately, hesitancy. So what happens when “South Africa’s most loved seafood restaurant” sets up shop in Kenya? A lot of pre-opening hype. Though, I’m happy to report, justified. Nairobi epicureans have been buzzing about the arrival of Ocean Basket – a seafood restaurant chain based in South Africa that’s rapidly expanding with branches in Nigeria, Mauritius, Cyprus and Dubai. Located on the ground floor of the The Oval in the heart of Nairobi’s Westlands neighbourhood, the 200-seater restaurant retains its signature casual seaside-chic from its South African counterparts. From the red and blue plaid tablecloths and wooden trivets which serve as placemats and are perfect for hot pans of seafood to the mixed-matched dining chairs which add
RESTAURANT REVIEW TEXT SUSAN WONG PHOTO LUCAS NDETO
Some of the thrills on the menu are subtle, others are scene-stealers
a touch of whimsical charm to the place, the decor at Ocean Basket is picture-perfect. On the other hand, the neon-lit signage which ensure that patrons won’t get lost in the restaurant, clearly guiding guests to areas such as the sushi bar and takeout counter, is a bit of an overkill. Though the décor carries a striking resemblance to Ocean Basket restaurants in South Africa, this one definitely feels more intimate and chic. Perhaps it’s the location – nestled in a relatively quiet commercial building instead of a busy massive mall (where South African Ocean Baskets usually are in) – or maybe it’s the soonto-be completed wine bar on the expansive patio, which undoubtedly adds a touch of sophistication that Nairobians can’t seem to ever get enough of. The wine bar also gives the restaurant a pulse that even in its current concrete state cannot be missed. Once the champagne and oyster Sunday specials begin in the coming weeks, heading to
Ocean Basket will probably become a weekly pilgrimage for shellfish and bubbly aficionados. The menu at Ocean Basket is not overcomplicated or fussy. No other restaurant in Nairobi makes the simple cooking of mussels and prawns seem so delicious with opportunities for excitement. My companions and I began with the Fresh Raw Oysters served on crushed ice and simply garnished with dill and lemon wedges. A large bottle of Tabasco followed. As I indulged in the subtle mineral taste of the divine sweetness of a creamy and plump oyster, a couple of my companions froze while they swallowed their first slimy mouthful of the ocean. Needless to say, they were dramatic raw oyster virgins. The selection of tapas, many vegetarian, matched well with their house bread. A mousse of roasted eggplant with rosemary and thyme was deliciously aromatic and packed a lot of flavour despite it being relatively light. The Roasted Mixed Pepper with Feta Cheese simply
dressed with garlic and olive oil arrived colourfully and with balanced caramelised sweetness. My favourite, the sautéed Mussels in Lemon Garlic Sauce, neatly arriving in a pan, were fragrant and plump. The buttery sauce pooled in the shells just enough to complement the juicy flesh and succulent taste of the light mussels. The signature Prince Prawns arrived on a large platter: twelve perfectly cooked prawns in lemon garlic butter with a healthy serving of spiced rice. Far from being rubbery, the meat of the prawns were firm, juicy and tasted of the sweetness of the ocean. Then there were the King Prawns that arrived with a velvety butternut squash mash and rich creamed spinach – the crowning moment of the evening. The big question is will people in Nairobi get tired of a seafood restaurant? Well if you’re asking this question, then clearly you’ve never eaten at Ocean Basket. Some of the thrills on the menu are subtle, like the diverse vegetarian options
that include fried goat cheese and a grilled Haloumi salad with Portobello mushrooms. Others are scene-stealers, like the mussels and prawns. A few are flat-out luxurious such as the raw oysters, served only a few hours since being harvested off of the Namibian coast. To be honest, I was quite nervous ahead of dining at Kenya’s first Ocean Basket. I’ve eaten at Ocean Basket in South Africa countless times. The restaurant chain has enjoyed enduring success and has a proven winning formula that keeps diners loyal. But would the consistency, quality of the seafood, and value for money – pillars of the Ocean Basket brand – also translate to its Kenyan location? I’m glad it has. From the décor to the pleasant service to the execution of the menu, I no longer need to be in South Africa to get my Ocean Basket-fix. Most importantly, I won’t be missing the abundance of seafood in Canada. This Canadian has found a substitute in Nairobi.
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TEXT YUMMY STAFF PHOTO LUCAS NDETO
Using local indigenous ingredients and creating a sort of fusion is what drives me
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CHEF PROFILE TEXT YUMMY STAFF PHOTO
HOME GROWN
In Kenya’s burgeoning and successful restaurant industry, it’s pretty hard to come by homegrown talent especially when it comes to top tier chefs. Yummy seized the opportunity to speak to the charismatic, passionate and talented, Joseph Gacheru. How long have you been in the restaurant industry?
seasoned before it’s plated. What inspires your cooking?
24 years, which is over half my life (Laughs).
French cuisine is considered as the ‘mother’ of continental cuisine but I am certainly moving towards simple cooking. Sourcing and using local indigenous ingredients and creating a sort of fusion – it’s something that I am exploring. For example, lacing sauces or consommés with lavender or aloe vera. The new Tamarind menu features a prawn and amaranth (terere seed) soup.
When did your relationship with food begin? I grew up in a typical Kenyan family where the perception was that cooking was only for women. One of my sisters was and still is a great cook. My grandfather was very particular about his food and how it was prepared… So I learnt from an early age that there is a difference in food and in allowing oneself to be spoilt by GOOD food. The method for preparation, consideration and respect for food is very important to the final outcome. If you were to create an equation for good food what would it be? Care in preparation (impacts textures and flavours) + the freshest ingredients + most of all passion (a love for what you do and create is vital). I would rather starve than have something that was substandard and I expect that patrons of our establishments would have the same ethos. In fact, the world famous Chaine des Rotisseurs organisation insists that its members never have any salt or pepper on the table, which really challenges the chef. Everything must be perfectly
Get hooked to the best seafood. Enjoy the best of what the sea has to offer with our famous Tamarind sea food platter of fresh giant prawns, sweet young crabs and juicy lobsters among other sea delicacies.
Mobile: 0719346349 / 0733603065 / 0719865481 E-mail: reservations.nairobi@tamarind.co.ke
Tel: 041 4474600 Mobile: 0733 623 583 / 0722 205 160 E-mail: reservations.dhow@tamarind.co.ke
Tel: 041 4474600 Wireless: 020 2435446/7/9 Mobile: 0733 623 583 / 0722 205 160 E-mail: reservations.mombasa@tamarind.co.ke Website: www.tamarind.co.ke
So what can we look forward to in the future when it comes to Tamarind and Joseph Gacheru? One of my key passions is training youth. At Tamarind Group, we have a rigorous apprentice programme which runs for 18 months. We take in approximately 16 out of hundreds of applicants [Gacheru mentions that they will only see applicants who have gone to college, which is a sign of their commitment]. There is a high turnover no doubt but we are left with a handful of trainees that are prepared mentally and emotionally to commit themselves to this career. Tamarind has become a training ground for the industry but at the end of the day, it is for the greater good. That is something that I feel very passionate about.
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WRITE FOR A BITE!
We know that living in a city far from the ocean can sometimes be a downer. Thankfully though, Nairobi has a diverse array of restaurants that serve up some the most delicious seafood around. Whether it’s grilled octopus, baked fish, prawn tempura or more, these yummy eateries are cooking all the good stuff that’ll wash your blues away.
FURUSATO, WESTLANDS
ADEGA , LAVINGTON
Wahid Hajee I tried out the buffet and fell in love with everything about the restaurant. The ambiance, the food, the staff and location are brilliant. The balcony gives a very international yet cozy feel. Loved the fact that they have heaters for every table. 100 points for being 100% halal!
LA DOLCE VITA, MUTHAIGA
MEDITERRANEO, 9 WEST
Thembi Khumalo My husband and I went on a lazy afternoon. The chef’s special Clams Tagliatelle paired immaculately with their house Pinot Gris, and really made our anniversary that much more special. My advice: always order something off the Chef’s Specials and ask the manager to advise you on a good wine.
PHOENICIAN, JUNCTION
Nabil Janmohamed The food at Mediterraneo is mouth-watering. The chef knows what a medium rare steak should look like, the entrees were delightful and the ambiance was elegant. The smooth jazz music makes it the best place for you to be on a date.
SEVEN , VILLAGE MARKET
Lee Sayer This is a good choice for anyone wanting a variety of styles and dishes. The sushi and sashimi have never disappointed and although the edamame portions are small, there are few restaurants in Kenya that serve this Japanese snack.
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Valerie Lwile I went there for the first time on a Saturday and I was really impressed. I was not too sure what to order, so I played it safe and went for the prawn tempura rolls, which were really good. Will definitely go back and try sushi this time around.
Kui Karinghithi I love their menu, as it’s very expensive. For seafood lovers their food is fresh and the ambiance makes the dining experience very delightful. Food can at times take a while to come and this was the only down side for me.
Enjoy special offers and discounts at the coolest restaurants in Nairobi!
Don’t forget our awesome Yummy Tuesdays promotion, where couples or pairs can get 50% off the food bill at participating outlets. All you need to do is call our reservations team on 0711 222 222 or book online at eatout.co.ke/yummytuesdays.
SOI, RIVERSIDE DRIVE
Mercy Wandimi Soi is as beautiful as everyone says and has an exciting menu to match. I don’t eat chicken or red meat so I was pleased to see a variety of seafood. My favourite dish was the Deep Fried Fish in a sticky tamarind sauce – chilli and delicious!
TAMARIND, KAREN
Tina Omuombo Another restaurant booked via Eat Out! You can never go wrong with the Swahili Seafood dish at the Tamarind—absolutely divine. To top it all off, the playful designs/writings on the desert is such a highlight! Loved the ambiance and the waitstaff are a good crop of well-trained staff!
ZEN GARDEN, HILLVIEW
Harivinder Singh Went there with my family. Great vegetarian options and great ambience. My young son couldn’t stop playing with the piano, he was having so much fun. Our food was fresh and flavorful. Sushi was very good too.
TALISMAN, KAREN
Laetia Mbaya I loved the experience at Talisman, it was EXCELLENT, the food was superb, the ambiance was great, the service was awesome, thanks to a waiter called Nicholas. The Chef took time to take us through the menu and the specials for the day. It was just a great experience.
TOKYO, LAVINGTON
Anna Mahinda An enjoyable evening spent eating what could be one of the most well presented fresh sushi in Nairobi. It wasn’t too full, service was quick and attention to detail was magic! Ask for the special desert made and prepared by the owners wife- a Korean cultural dessert not to be missed...delicious!
88, VILLA ROSA KEMPINSKI
Cynthia Nyabola An amazing place with a cool feng shui vibe to it! I didn’t really understand the negative reviews about the place, perhaps it was because the restaurant was still new when people wrote reviews. They’ve improved since then. The menu
is great!
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COFFEE
KAHAWA DIARIES THE ETHIOPIAN BREW
Coffee-flavoured Onion Jam Ingredients: 4 cloves of garlic diced or 2 tsp crushed garlic 1 tsp cumin ¾ cup apple cider vinegar 4 medium-sized onions 3 tbsp brown sugar (you can also use 3 tbsp honey) 2 heaped teaspoons of Dormans Suprema Finely Ground Coffee Cooking Instructions: 1. Chop onions into chunks. Transfer them to a frying pan and fry until brown. Turn down the heat down and simmer for about10 minutes, or until the onions are soft. 2. Turn up the heat back on, add the garlic, cumin and coffee. Fry for 2-3 minutes. 3. Turn the heat back down , add brown sugar and stir until consistency is thick and sticky then add apple cider vinegar to a boil. 4. Turn down heat and leave to simmer for another 45 – 50 minutes (or until liquid has been absorbed by onions and is thick and sticky) Check and stir every 15 minutes. When ready, let it cool and enjoy as desired!
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In Ethiopia, the preparation and serving of coffee is so much more than just popping instant coffee in a machine, throwing in some milk, and guzzling it down. Instead, it is a loving gesture of hospitality shown to family, friends and visitors. Coffee can be served up to three times a day and on special occasions. The ritual involves a woman/hostess with a set-up comprising of: a mini coffee cabinet, a mat underneath a stool, incense for burning throughout the process and a jiko, or mini gas burner. Roasting The hostess will begin the process by putting raw coffee beans into a metal griddle or a menkeshkesha
over the fire, and will shake it, regularly, so that the beans roast evenly. Once ready, she will walk around the room so that each person can wave and pull the smoke toward them, in order to inhale the beautiful aroma.
back into the pot. She will repeat this process until she deems the coffee ready. During the wait, a starch—such as popcorn—is normally served.
Serving To each tiny cup, or sini, she will Grinding and Brewing add sugar or milk—according to The next process is grinding, requests—before she adds the which—traditionally—is done coffee. A straw mesh is placed into using a pestle and mortar. the spout to act as a filter, and the Nowadays though the hostess uses coffee is then poured into each an electric grinder. The ground cup. Remember that it is important coffee is then funneled into a to compliment the hostess on her jebena or coffee pot, water is delicious coffee. It is said that added and then set on the jiko to some women see the lack of praise boil. The liquid will normally flow as negative criticism, and will pour out of the spout during boiling, at it all out and start over! which point the hostess will catch the overflow in a cup and pour it
TEXT MARYANNE NJOROGE
SPILLING THE BEANS
“I have measured out my life with coffee spoons.” -T. S. Eliot, American playwright and poet
Two hours have evaporated by, I’m on to my fourth espresso and my Word document is as blank as the over-caffeinated face that’s staring into it. I hear humming car engines in the Village Market parking lot outside, yet with the slight breeze coming in through the window, I find it soothing. It’s the domestic witching hour: when moms, muddied sons and grey-suited men come flushing in and out of Nakumatt, each carrying their respective wares: kitchen towel, half-eaten chocolate bars and 3 bottles of dry red wine. I’m procrastinating… God bless the person who invented a space where aimless souls can sit for hours playing Candy Crush and still look like they’re doing meaningful work. This particular coffee shelter has a cozy lounge-like area: cushiony couches huddled around low tables, with a mounted set of shelves taking the place of a could-have-also-been large painting on a wall. On these shelves are rows and rows of books—many dog-eared and weathered, some fresh—that lean on each other like friends posing for an Instagram selfie. I get up and finger through this mound of literature: ‘Gardening 101’, ‘A Critical Analysis of Shakespearean Poetry’, ‘Be The BEST You’, and… OUCH!! I’ve nudged an enormous publication off its edge and watched, helplessly, as it planted its gargantuan self onto my left pinky toe. What is this damn thing anyway? I peel it away from my throbbing digit, and limp back over to my table. I flip the book on either side a few times and scan its large spine, trying to understand why there is no title. Strange… Paging through it quickly, my nostrils are filled with dust. I’m sneezing uncontrollably but I’m hardly bothered, something much bigger is gripping my attention in these pages. I lift my face up from the book and hastily look around the room seeking reassurance for what I’ve just read. But in the friendly catch-up chatter, quiet magazine-reading faces, and asynchronous keyboard tapping, I find none. So I reach for my neglected coffee and take a fierce gulp as if hoping the drink will agree that I’m not crazy. But even before I finish swallowing, I’m already back reading. I can’t help it. What I’ve just found is both intriguing and completely unbelievable… To be continued…
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text ANIES PEILLET photo courtesy
SEAFOOD PARADISE Lamu to Zanzibar A food lover’s guide! 30.
MAIN FEATURE
With its 536 kms of coastline stretching from Lamu in the North to Lunga Lunga in the South, Kenya has a long and straight forward fishing tradition. From the Swahili people who began fishing the shallow blue reefs with dhows, traditional sailing vessels with long thin hulls made of wood and coconut fibre rope in the 13th century, to the modern artisanal wavuvi, or fishermen in Kiswahili, who can still be seen sailing up and down the coast, fishing in Kenya is still mostly done from small fishing boats that
the locals still refer to as dhows. Shallow-water fish from Snapper, Parrot Fish and Surgeon Fish, as well as deep-water fish like Mackerels, Barracudas, and Crustaceans such as Lobsters, Prawns and Crabs make most of the local fishermens’s catch. Protected by coral reef, the Kenyan coast’s lavish sea fauna is a snorkeler’s, sports fisherman enthusiast and seafood gastronome’s paradise. Any attempt to catalogue the plethora of marine life is best left to a chapter in Jules Vernes’s “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.”
THE ROCK RESTAURANT
The food, the light, colours and the staff’s passion for cooking all conspire to create a one-of-a-kind magic. Breathtaking!
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MAIN FEATURE
Lamu Karkadeh Restaurant Subira House At Karkadeh, slow food is the key word. Located in Old Town Lamu, Subira House is an eco-friendly hotel hidden behind the walls of a Swahili house. Recently opened, Karkadeh offers a 3-course dinner using locally caught seafood and locally grown vegetables. Guests can elect to hook their own dinner during a sailing trip and enjoy in the courtyard, sitting legs crossed on a carpet on the ground under the stars.
Malindi Victoria Ocean Beach Resort & Spa The chefs’s inspired fusion menu marries the intoxicating flavours of Kenya, Italy, France and various angles of the culinary world in the hotel’s casual restaurants. Seasonal cuisine and daily menus are created by the celebrated chefs. La Grigilia Casino The epitome of a true Italian restaurant, rustic and authentic! The menu includes everything from exquisite seafood dishes, freshly caught to the perfectly seared steaks. And of course pasta!
Watamu Amandina Medina Palms Inspired by the proximity of the ruins of the ancient city of Gede, the food at Amandina is Mediterranean, Moroccan and North African. The slow-cooked, earthy stews incorporate delicate flavourings using the finest fresh local seafood and vegetables. Warm spices and tasty sauces accompany the dishes. After dinner, guests can delight in alfresco evenings on the terrace, try the shisha in the star lounge or enjoy creative cocktails under the equatorial sky.
Kikambala Porini Boko Boko Boko Boko Porini is known for its delicious menu that combines
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traditional Seychellois cuisine with local delicacies. Try their creole fish soup or prawns, and don’t miss out on their succulent char-grilled steaks. Your meal coupled with the lush garden setting and smiling faces will surely make for a memorable experience.
Mtwapa La Marina Restaurant Famous for its fresh Seafood and Barbeque, the menu at La Marina is designed to satisfy all tastes: Seafood, Oriental, Grilled dishes, Italian dishes, Pizza and more. Ideally located on the North Mombasa Coast and blessed with a picturesque tranquil setting, right on the edge of Mtwapa Creek, La Marina Restaurant has all the right ingredients to become a favourite with discerning diners. Excellent location, outstanding cuisine and attentive service. The Moorings Located on the scenic Mtwapa creek on the North coast of Mombasa, The Moorings is one of the few floating restaurants in East Africa. The extensive seafood menu includes a mouth-watering variety of fresh lobster, crab, prawns, calamari and fish.
Mombasa Tamarind Perched on a cliff overlooking the picturesque Old Harbour of Mombasa Tamarind Mombasa’s menu is a blend of the best of French, Asian and African cuisines. The Prawns Piri Piri, Chilli Crab and Lobster have earned the Tamarind restaurant worldwide fame and rave reviews from Gourmet, the London Times and the Herald Tribune. Built in Arab style with high arches and a crenellated roof, the elegant building is the perfect setting for a romantic, starlit dinner. Look for their amazing lime sorbet!
Diani Ali Barbour’s Cave Believed to be between 120,000 and 180,000 years old, Ali Barbour’s Cave is as unique as its setting. Made
from the finest, freshest seasonal ingredients, cooked to perfection, well presented, and tasting just out of this world the seafood menu includes Ali Drunken prawns, Fresh Kilifi Oysters, a seafood platter complete with fresh Calamari, Crab of the mangrove, Lobster, King prawns, Red Snapper and Oysters. Situated about 30km south of Mombasa, it offers a unique dining experience. Sails Beach Bar & Restaurant At Sails, each top class dish that leaves the kitchen window does so under the watchful eye of Luke Doig – Almanara’s General Manager & Executive Chef at Sails. A third generation Kenyan, Luke’s extensive experience has propelled Sails to the top of the exclusive restaurants’ list in Kenya. Sails’ sweeping sails and curving beams offer a stunning and unique piece of architecture on the beach front within Almanara. The Maji Beach Boutique Hotel A wide selection of à la carte gourmet menus featuring Swahili, Indian, Mediterranean and other Ethnic specialties awaits you at The Maji. The emphasis is on fish and seafood brought daily from the ocean.
Dar Es Salaam Cape Town Fish Market Cape Town Fish Market, South Africa’s premier seafood restaurant, brings a fresh taste of South Africa to Tanzania. The menu offers a wonderful combination of both South African and Japanese dishes including fish and chips, grilled prawns, salmon teriyaki and a wide variety of sushi. It’s an ultimate feast of flavors.
Zanzibar The Rock As its name implies, The Rock restaurant sits on a rock close to the shore of the beautiful Michanwi Pingwe beach. Crab, calamari, prawns, lobster and octopus are all prominently featured on the menu. At The rock, the food, the light, colours, and the staff’s passion for cooking all conspire to create a one-of-a-kind magic. Breathtaking!
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TENTACLED TALES E
very morning fishermen head off to collect the traps they set out the night before, or use spearguns to pierce octopods as they nestle in the coral reef. They then sell their catch to women, who proceed to beat it viciously on the rocks in
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order to tenderise the creature’s flesh. Nairobians, it would seem, are beginning to catch on. It’s lunchtime at Seven in ABC plaza and Amal Mohamed, a legal consultant, is tucking into a large plate of smoky octopus as she comments on the
More alien than fish, the octopus is becoming increasingly popular on the menus of our foodie city. Katy Fentress sets out to find out why. seafood craze which she says is taking hold of the city. “I love the excitement there is around seafood in Nairobi these days,” enthuses Amal. “Take me for example: I’m having lunch here now and this evening, I’m headed to Ocean Basket with some friends.”
FEATURE TEXT KATY FENTRESS PHOTOS LORENZO MELISSARI
At the coast, women beating octopus on the rocks to tenderise the meat is a familiar sight
Seafood is fast catching the imagination of the Nairobi foodie generation and new and exciting establishments are sprouting up to meet the growing demand. “I really hated octopus the first time I tried it,” confides Amal. “It was super rubbery and I just didn’t get it! Then one day a friend convinced me to try some at a stall near the Likoni ferry in Mombasa and I got hooked!” Where once octopus was viewed with suspicion by Nairobians, who preferred the familiarity of a white fish fillet, these cephalopod creatures are slowly making their way onto the menus of the capital’s restaurants. “Red snapper is an obvious favourite,” says Dario Aloisio, group executive chef at the Mediterraneo chain of restaurants. “However, the Indian Ocean is full of octopus and with so many foodies crazy about it,
people are beginning to catch on.” Unless you got particularly excited when watching the Korean film Oldboy - in which the protagonist, Oh Dae-su (Choi min-sik) orders a live octopus at a sushi restaurant and proceeds to tear it apart with his teeth, you would be forgiven for thinking octopus is the stuff of nightmares. Whereas a fish fillet can be viewed as a white steak, the octopus’s tentacles and beak give the creature a positively alien look. When cooked properly, the taste of octopus is far similar to that of land creatures than other seafood. While oysters taste like the ocean and red snapper is soft and flaky, octopus tastes pretty much like white meat. Which might be the secret behind its gradual rise in popularity. The main challenge when preparing octopus is to prevent it from becoming hard and rubbery. In
North Coast, women beating octopus on the rocks to tenderise the meat is a familiar sight. Some times though, a thorough beating just isn’t enough. Here in Nairobi, chef’s opinions as to how to cook the beast to tender perfection vary. While the Executive Chef at Seven restaurant Kiran Jethwa strongly believes that the secret is to boil it in a solution of water, red wine, vinegar and lemon juice, Chef Dario swears that the best way is to blanch it in boiling water for about fifteen minutes and then let it cool in the pot for two hours. Kenyan octopus fishing methods are fairly sustainable as there is a limit to how many octopods one lone fisherman can collect. However, while the amount of octopus consumed here in Kenya doesn’t impact on the local stocks, the risk for depletion is nonetheless very real. “Large suppliers are buying up as
much as they can for export to Asia and Europe and eventually there will be none left for us,” Chef Kiran says. Chef Dario agrees: “With regards to octopus, squid and red snapper, we are still pretty safe here in Kenya. There are a lot of big companies however that are buying up all the fish at the coast for international export and this might prove problematic down the line.” When she goes out for dinner tonight, Amal might order red snapper or if she dares, octopus again, but certainly no tuna or marlin. Like the local chefs, she knows that the new seafood craze happening here and all around the world is not sustainable.That said, the rise in appetite for seafood shows that from the healthy to the adventurous, Nairobians have been stung by a foodie bug, the effects of which show no signs of abating.
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WELLNESS TEXT
AMY SELBACH
MIRACLE CURE Recently there has been an onslaught of media hype around Omega-3 fatty acids. Open any health magazine or blog, or visit any nutritionist or health coach and they will tout omega-3s as a must have. However, we have heard this all before. Remember when we were being told to eat margarine and artificial sweeteners and to avoid eggs and avocados? That was bad advice. So is this too? Over the last 5 years omega-3s have become a household name, yet very few people actually know what they are or why to eat them. Many have a jar in their cabinet going rancid as we speak. Well, before you let another jar of omega-3s go to waste, let me tell you what they actually do and what current scientific evidence shows. Perhaps you will find yourself more motivated to incorporate them into your daily routine. Omega-3 fatty acids are a collection of polyunsaturated fatty acids including EPA and DHA that the body does not produce on its own. We need to get these from food sources or supplements. One major source of these acids is fish. High doses are found in salmon, sardines, tuna and cod liver. Other major sources are walnuts, canola oil and flax seeds.
Brain Health: Studies have shown that Omega-3 fatty acids have improved memory and learning. Certain studies have shown that children taking omega-3 have scored higher on test and memorization activities and had fewer behavioral problems and mood swings. Other studies have shown Omega-3s help fight age-related cognitive decline. They have also been shown to aid in depression, dementia and even schizophrenia.
for a variety of diseases such as heart disease, allergies, autoimmune disease, cancer and more. Omega-3s are a key component in quelling inflammation.
Reduce Inflammatory Conditions: Omega-3 helps fight inflammation in the body. This is a huge topic, but to put it simply inflammation is caused by our body fighting something, be it disease, infection, injury or fighting for balance. While inflammation is an appropriate and necessary response to the aforementioned list, chronic inflammation is bad and is the basis
Great Skin: That healthy glow you see has been linked to having fatty acids—like Omega-3—in your diet. The skin can also become inflamed due to poor diet and skin conditions such as eczema and acne. These ailments are often thought to be a result of chronic inflammation.
Help with Heart Disease: Omega-3 fats also lower blood pressure and heart rate, improve blood vessel function, and—at higher doses— lower triglycerides. They also combat the development of atherosclerosis by once again reducing inflammation.
Here are a few ways to get Omega3s into your diet: 1. Smoothies: a tablespoon of flax oil or fish oil can be added to a smoothie. Before you’re put off, there are fish oil blends that don’t taste fishy at all! 2. Salmon: You can put it on top of salads, or make a salmon burger, or even a gourmet fish cake! Smoked salmon is also a great thing to eat on the go in a variety of ways. 3. Take a tablespoon of raw cod liver oil or an omega supplement from a reputable company. Not all fish oils are created equally, so do your research. 4. Flax and Walnuts: Sprinkle on salads, over yoghurt, roasted veggies or blend in smoothies.
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RECIPES SHRIMP COCKTAIL Ingredients 400g cooked Atlantic shell-on prawns 4 lettuce leaves 5 tbsp mayonnaise 5 tbsp tomato chutney 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp creamed horseradish tiny splash Tabasco sauce squeeze lemon juice paprika, for dusting 4 tsp. snipped chives
GRILLED TUNA STEAKS Ingredients 4 fresh tuna steaks, 8 ounces each, 1-inch thick 1 lemon, zested 3 sprigs fresh rosemary, about 2 tablespoons leaves stripped from stem Handful flat leaf parsley 3 cloves garlic, crushed Coarse salt and black pepper or grill seasoning Extra-virgin olive oil, for cooking
Directions Peel all but 4 of the prawns (reserve these for the tops). Divide the leaves evenly between 4 glasses. Mix the mayonnaise, tomato chutney, Worcestershire sauce, horseradish and Tabasco together. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt and pepper. Spoon the Marie Rose sauce in the glasses. Divide the lettuce leaves among the glasses. Arrange the prawns over the rim of the glasses and season with black pepper. Dust with a little paprika and sprinkle with chives. Serve immediately.
Directions Rinse and pat tuna steaks dry. Place zest on top of cutting board. Pile rosemary and parsley leaves on top of zest. Pile garlic and some coarse salt and black pepper or grill seasoning on top of herbs. Finely chop the garlic, herbs, and spices. Drizzle the olive oil over the tuna steaks just enough to coat each side. Rub herb and garlic mixture into fish, coating pieces evenly on each side. Let stand 10 minutes. Grill tuna steaks 6 minutes on each side or 4 minutes on each side, if you prefer pink tuna at the center. Cook steaks over: high setting on indoor electric grill, medium high heat on outdoor gas grill or, 6 inches from hot, prepared charcoal.
CRAB CAKES Ingredients 1 pound crabmeat, picked free of shells 1/3 cup crushed crackers 3 green onions (green and white parts), finely chopped 1/2 cup finely chopped bell pepper 1/4-cup mayonnaise 1 egg 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1/2 lemon, juiced 1/4-teaspoon garlic powder 1-teaspoon salt Dash cayenne pepper Flour, for dusting 1/2-cup peanut oil Favorite dipping sauce, for serving Directions In a large bowl, mix together all ingredients, except for the flour and peanut oil. Shape into patties and dust with flour. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When oil is hot, carefully place crab cakes, in batches, in pan and fry until browned, about 4 to 5 minutes. Carefully flip crab cakes and fry on other side until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Serve warm with preferred sauce.
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FISH & CHIPS
TEXT ANIES PEILLET
Ingredients
Directions
For the chips 800g unpeeled, even-size potatoes 2 tbsp. olive oil
Pat the fillets dry with paper towels. Coat each fillet with flour, patting off the excess. Heat the oil in a frying pan to 200C (use a thermometer so you can check the oil stays at that temperature). Mix 50g flour, corn flour, a pinch of salt and some pepper. Whisk the egg white until frothy and bubbly, but not too stiff. Pour the water into the flour mix, gently and briefly whisking as you go. The batter shouldn’t be completely smooth. Add the egg white, then lightly whisk in just to mix.
For the fish 650g (approx.) skinless haddock, hake or cod fillet from a sustainable source, cut into 4 equal-size pieces 50g self-raising flour, plus 1 tbsp 50g corn flour 1 egg white 125ml ice-cold sparkling water 1 lemon, cut into wedges 600ml sunflower oil, for frying
Try and keep as many bubbles as you can so the batter stays light. Cooking two pieces of fish at a time, dip them in the batter to coat, let some of it drip off, then lower into the hot oil using a slotted spoon. Fry for 5-6 mins, making sure the oil stays at 200C and turning the fish over halfway through so it is golden all over. Lift out with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper. Check the oil is back up to 200C, then repeat with remaining fish. Serve with chips and lemon wedges.
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MAN ABOUT TOWN TEXT JACKSON BIKO ART MOVIN WERE
EXPLORER TAVERN
The cats who come here are mature, average age of 40 years, which means they wouldn’t use the word “cat.”
Jackson Biko, is a lover of whisky and people watching. He likes to walk the shadows of the city at dusk, picking conversations of a people spurred by the night and by their drink.
Y
ou have cats that fashion themselves as whisky connoisseurs. Friends of mine. Friends of friends. They wear bow ties and cufflinks that match their socks. They never sit anywhere but at the bar counter with one leg planted firmly on the ground. To anchor them. Whisky-heads. I’m seated with one of them now and he’s saying, “I don’t particularly fancy blends. [That’s blended whisky for all you poor wine-drinkers], because blends don’t have that distinct character that single-malts have.” You can tell he’s a phony because he has used the word “character” to describe a drink. Now he brings his glass to his nose before sipping his whisky. Shortly, he will launch into this long, drunken debate about whether because a whisky is single malt naturally; it has to taste better than a blend. “It’s like saying just because a woman is from Brazil she is
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automatically more gorgeous than a woman from Haiti! [No offence to the Haitians who might be reading this],” I hiss, as the Glenmorangie slides down my throat like mercury on a glass. We are at Explorer Tavern bar in Kilimani, not Lavington, as some people might think. It’s a whisky bar as you might have guessed by now… Stocks hundreds of different types of single-malts and blended whiskies. The cats who come here are mature, average age of 40 years, which means they wouldn’t use the word “cat.” There is a large garden at the back with umbrellas. There is seating behind the building and cosy whisky branded lounges where groups of whisky loving women in glitzy dresses often crowd in, blowing decent money on decent whisky. The beauty of Explorer is that they have made whisky affordable. Their pricing is extremely fair. Because they are always having a promotion,
you will always almost buy a tot of the single-malt of that week at something ridiculous like Sh400! At some point we will step outside on the verandah where Mr. BowTie-I-Don’t-Drink-Blended-Whisky will guillotine the head of a cigar and light it up. We will move to a different debate, maybe about cars, as we scan the parking lot for those massive guzzlers with grills that look angry. The sky is now greyblue. Folk will stumble in through the entrance stopping briefly at the noticeboard at the entrance to see which whisky is on offer. Some driver – I won’t say what sex – will be doing a 560-degree point turn to reverse parking. We will chuckle, with my boy absentmindedly passing the burning cigar to me and me ignoring him, but not the rancid smell of cigar entirely, which will curl at the back of my throat as if settling in for the night.
MIXOLOGY
DIY COCKTAILS Wanna be hype but not broke? Follow these four simple recipes to make these popular cocktails from the comfort of your own home. Or hit the town. For the best Mojito in town, stop at The Tribe bar in Gigiri. For the others, try your luck in the many highly reputed establishments of the city, and let us know how you did at home!
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MIXOLOGY WINE TEXT ANIES PEILLET PHOTOS COURTESY
While seafood has traditionally been paired with white wines, Julie Smith of Le De-canter in ABC in Westlands says the adage is undergoing a bit of a shakeup… The redwine-paired-withfish phenomemon that is! Here she reviews a few of the white French wines she recommends with seafood. For Yummy readers, she throws in a couple of more hype suggestions, from Champagne all the way to Rosé.
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SEAFOOD PAIRING Whites with Starters Prawn Cocktail, Octopus Salad and Crab Cakes Domaine Rieflé 2012 Sylvaner Displaying flavours of white flowers and hay, this white wine goes well with cold starters like prawn cocktails or octopus salad which go from sweet to salty. Domaine Rieflé 2012 Riesling Versatile and light with refreshing flavours of grapefruit and pineapple, the Domaine Rieflé 2012 Riesling can accommodate a wide variety of seafood, but crab cake and Riesling especially pair well together. The good balance of acidity and fruits in this delicate wine makes it an ideal match not to overpower the subtle flavours of the crab. Champagne Erad-Salmon Cuvée Prestige Apart from the undeniable good taste, we wondered why Champagne and oysters are recommended for pairing in just about every reputable foodie magazine or blog in the world. So we did our research. As you probably know, real Champagne is typically a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay with some Pinot Meunier thrown in. These grape varietals (both separately and when blended together) provide the lemony tartness and lightness that chases well with the slimy muscle we all come to love and why, for instance, a splash of lemon on an oyster is also highly recommend before sliding it down the hatch. But after all, it’s not just the taste that drives this ultimate pairing, it’s the sense of richness that goes with each bite and sip. What is more decadent, we ask? And if the price of real Champagne is reserved only for rare occasions, you can try your next batch of Kilifi Oysters with most any wine or sparkling wine of the above varieties. Just don’t tell that to the French.
Reds or Rose with Main Dishes Firm flesh fish like tuna and haddock that are big on flavours—and have a hearty texture—can accommodate red and rosé wines easily. Once you have tried fish with red and rosé, you will understand this new pairing trend completely. Pommard 2008 by Domaine Charles One hundred percent Pinot Noir, this red has character. It displays aromas of black currant, cherry, chocolate and black pepper and goes down wonderfully with grilled tuna steak. Rose St Victorin, Silver Label, Rose de Provence Beautiful pink with generous fruity flavor, its very light color echoes the delicate and tender evocations of red fruits with light grapefruit taste. This light, dry and fruity chilled French rosé works not just with traditional fish and chips, but all manner of seafood and fish.
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WINE TEXT ANIES PEILLET
WINE CHICK
CASILLERO DEL DIABLO CHARDONNAY
A refreshing Chilean premium from Casablanca and Limari valley in Chile, aged in French Oak barrels. Fresh and frutal. With notes of pineapple, citrus and peaches, soft notes of vanilla. A complex good balance and fresh acidity, a mid-bodied wine with a long, sweet finish. Great with fish, seafood and oysters.
Wine makes us believe our full potential is within our grasp and that we have a grasp on the world Thursday night is girls’ night out. It always starts in a very civilised, politically correct way. My friends and I get together to catch up on each other’s weeks and gossip over a bottle of wine. As grounded, mature women, we discuss and rationalise our husbands’ annoying habits and our friend’s latest break up with Prince Charming. At some point during the course of the evening though something shifts, something magical happens. Along the rocky road of self-actualisation, wine moves our woman’s brain in mysterious ways. It makes us believe our full potential is within our grasp and that we have a grasp on the world… Wine gives us clarity and creativity. It gives us confidence and mischievousness. So we redden our lips, Snow White style, to match our big mouths and fluff our hair, a la Amy Winehouse, slip on our stilettos, wriggle into our outdated 1990s Christian Audigier bomber jackets, get into a cab and hit the town. Last week the magic happened at Seven Restaurant & Bar in ABC, where we started the evening with a 2010 Veramonte Pinot Noir with liquorice flavours. It was under the influence of that red that I began to devise ways to beat my husband’s transgressions out of his system once and for all. Missing the laundry hamper again? I will move it to a different corner of the bathroom. Taking bites of hamburger big enough to dislocate his jaw? I shall serve them with a hard French baguette instead of soft buns. Reading on the toilet seat for an hour again? I shall…. Improvise! I was clearly having a good evening… In just a short while, I came up with ways to take a power nap at work unnoticed, to hack my neighbours’ Wifi, and to BYOB our wine to the next bar. Thank you, wine. As the witching hour was closing in on us, hell, and a heel, broke loose. The friend who had recently been dumped by Prince Charming had an epiphany: the guy was a toad. And as blonde as she is, she is no bimbo. “Hell Hath No Fury like a blonde scorned!” she yelled. Which, of course, led to massive group mischievousness… Scribbling Prince Charming’s phone number all over the bathroom walls of seedy Nairobi joints became our mission for the night. More friends joined in, so naturally we ordered a 2013 Argento Malbec. Deep and dark with blackberry and black currant flavours, it was the perfect potion for the witches that we had turned into. Our pseudo plans to remove whatever was standing between us and perfect happiness became more eccentric, the flaws in our coping strategies less and less obvious, the outcomes more and more attainable. What does wine do to a woman’s brain? It gives her the illusion, however fleeting, that she rules the world! And that my friends, is a hell of a lot more fun than sock knitting. P.S. If you come across a toad’s phone number next time you hit the bathroom, it wasn’t us. Nairobi is just full of toads and vindictive blondes.
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CHABLIS PREMIER CRU
This Lamblin & Fils 2000 Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy offers a fresh steely profile with an aromatic nose of ripe fruit. It is highly complex and therefore highly adaptable. Good matches will include cooked oysters and fish in sauce. The more mineral version of this wine can be served with fine poultry or veal in white sauce.
WINE PICKS
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ROBERT MONDAVI FUME BLANC
The Wine Shop Presents the Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Fume Blanc. A kaleidoscope of lively tangerine and lime zest, gooseberry, honeydew melon, jasmine, and orange blossom aromas swirl into a crisp sip of lemon-lime citrus, melon, and fresh meadow flavors with a touch of pea tendrils and newly-cut ginger root in a vibrantly refreshing wine that sends waves of flavor along its wonderfully long, lingering finish. It pairs beautifully with shellfish, lobsters, crab, and jumbo prawns.
MADFISH SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON
From Western Australia’s south-west, this has a fresh nose reminiscent of citrus and Asian fruits, and a dab of lanolin. It tastes clean and fine, with agreeable ripeness and mouth-watering balance. Good paired with Shellfish salad; fried prawns.
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BELOW & RIGHT Lime Mint Sorbet Recipe Serves 4
DESSERT TEXT ANIES PEILLET
THE NEW ICE CREAM Low fat, tasty with some practical application, Sorbet is a refreshing frozen dessert which has lost in popularity to the ubiquitous ice-cream. After shrinking back into the depths of dessert menus, it’s making a come back and for good reasons. It’s light, refreshing, tasty and low fat! What is sorbet? Not to be confused with ice cream or gelato, sorbet is made from fruit juice or fruit purée, sugar and water. Unlike ice cream, it contains no cream and no air. And unlike granita it is whipped so there is no ice crystals in it and it is smooth. How do you have it? Sorbet is usually enjoyed as the perfect ending to a light al fresco summer dinner. In France though, it is used as a palate cleanser or as a digestive in the middle of a multicourse meal in which case it contains alcohol. As a middle of the game option, sorbet removes lingering flavors, especially strong fish flavors allowing for a fresh perspective. As a digestive, sorbet is used to
Ingredients 4 yellow lemons cut in half and emptied 1 ½ cups water (divided) 1 cup sugar ¼ cup packed (½ ounce) fresh whole mint leaves 1 ½ teaspoons lime zest ¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice Instructions Bring sugar and 1 cup water to a boil in a saucepan. Remove from heat and stir in remaining ½ cup water. Chill until ready to use. In a large saucepan, bring 1 quart water to a boil. Add mint leaves and blanch, then plunge into ice water. Remove mint from ice water and squeeze. Put blanched mint and ¼ cup of the simple syrup into a blender and puree. Combine with lime zest, lime juice and 1 ¾ cups of remaining simple syrup. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker then arrange in the fresh lemon cups and freeze. Note: You will have ½ a cup of simple syrup left over. Keep extra refrigerated to use in other recipes.
avoid heart burn and stimulate the appetite. Sorbet is the French secret to eating... more without guilt! Origins The word sorbet is a French word. Where it comes from is debatable and rather boring. The Roman Emperor Nero has sometimes been credited for inventing this frozen dessert when he had runners carry buckets of snow from the Alps to his banquet halls in Rome where it was then mixed with honey and wine. How to make it? This frozen dessert is super easy to make at home. Sometimes served in a frozen lemon peel, in which case it is called a givré, it is both pleasant to the palate and pleasing to the eye.
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NON FOODIES
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