Yummy 54: The Melting Pot

yummy

Issue 5.7 July / August

Y UCOPY MMY FREE

FOOD. DRINK. LIFE

THE MELTING POT LOOKING BACK Recipes across the ages with Kook Food

EVERYTHING PUMPKIN For the love of this misunderstood fruit

THE PICKLE OFF Well kept family pickle recipes into the Yummy.come Food. Drink.

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VOL 5.7 JULY/ AUGUST

CONTENTS IN THIS ISSUE

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33 FINGER ON THE PULSE 12 16 14 19

News and Events: News Feed New Restaurants: New on the block Dinner with: Endo Squared Dormans Corner: Take a break

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30 FEATURES 33 11 40 20

The Art of:Traditional Food K1 feature: History of K1 Yummy focus: Everything Pumpkin Home Grown: Pasta making

42 AND MORE..

25 29 22 44

On the Menu: One for the ages Roots special: Old habits Roots special: Pickle Off Nightlife: Throwback

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WELCOME NOTE

LOOKING INWARD When we decided to have a roots and culture edition of Yummy, we weren’t sure about how it was going to go. There’s just so much to talk about! Different cultures, stories and people who all have something to say. Honestly, there’s too much that just cannot fit into one magazine, but we’ve done our best. When you’re working with food, it’s more like you’re working with people. Everything that is served on a plate, in a glass or even when you’re walking into someones home, is an extension of someone and has to be taken more seriously than we usually do. For us, July was a month of questions. Who made the dish? Where is the root of it? What does it all mean? Frankly, it felt like we were making a documentary. Every little tidbit in this issue has come with an immense load of heart into it, starting from age-old questions that haunt me ever since I turned 25. Growing up, culture didn’t mean much to me and when my parents would encourage me to learn our mother tongue or take pride in the meals we carried to school, I turned away like a little brat and yearned for the classic lunches I saw on TV like those oh-so-delicious looking peanut butter and jelly sandwiches (Spoiler alert for young Sanaa: Those sandwiches do not taste good).

It might be a norm for children to spur their culture and backgrounds, but it’s not something I am proud of. As I got older, I leaned more into what my mother used to tell me and the craving for home-cooked food and our heritage stories grew. I am proud to say that I am now doing better with being proud of the culture and I hope you’ll see a little of that when you explore my New On The Block column as well as our Pickle Off feature.

In line with the theme of looking back, we also have a history of soy sauce and stories from the infamous Anselm of Kitengela Glass. For our recipe section, we go all out with Recipes Across The Ages with Kavita and traditional Congolese meals from Chef Beni in our Chef Confidential feature. Juliet Kennedy awes us (Again) with her pasta-making skills and Jmwai digs deep into the Kenyan culture scene for traditional desserts we all love!

This is only a little snippet of what you can expect in this edition and we hope you enjoy every minute of it! The conversation around the exploration of our roots and impact on our palate and personality will never end and we’re glad of it. If you have your stories to share, feel free to reach out to us and let us help you tell that story!

ON THE COVER - THE MELTING POT SHOT BY J.MWAI YUMMY VOL.5.7 PUBLISHED BY EATOUT, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED MANAGING DIRECTOR:

Mikul Shah GENERAL MANAGER YUMMY MEDIA

Joy Wairimu MANAGING EDITOR:

Sanaa Mughal STAFF WRITER:

Lucy Munene CONTRIBUTORS:

Juliet Kennedy, Kavita Khimji, Josiah Kahiu, Ekta Patel, J.Mwai, Sonali Sumaria, Beni Rumasha, Raechelle Rapozo, Anselm Croze, PHOTOGRAPHY:

Patrick Gitau, Kenyan library, Brian Siambi, Paul Otieno, Sabah Jabeen DESIGN:

John Njoroge, Brian Siambi DIGITAL TEAM:

Sanaa Mughal

Fred Mwithiga, Anthony Mbugua, Faith Kanja SALES, MARKETING & OPERATIONS:

Wambui Kogi, Daniel Muthiani, Jane Naitore, Angela Omondi, Vanessa Wanjiku, Meghna Patel, Wambui Maina, Ekta Patel, Nyambura Mbugua IT:

Erick Kiiya SALES INQUIRIES:

0711 22 22 22 @YummyAfrica

@YummyMagazineAfrica

/YummyMagazineAfrica

EMAIL:

Info@Yummy.co.ke PRINTED BY:

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YU S OM C IMA YL S C E N E

HENDRICK’S GIN WORLD CUCUMBER DAY For an entire week, Hendrick’s Gin partnered with select restaurants in Nairobi to appreciate one of the key ingredients that go into their world-class gin. All you needed was a cucumber and some friends to enjoy the cocktails with. The Most Unusual Gin found a way to add delightful peculiarities to universal things such as high tea, brunches and craft cocktails in an effort to inspire people to embrace and cultivate their unusual side.

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K 1 OKULTU & B YH A UB OM O UM U SE T Y

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CELEBRATING 21 YEARS OF FUN EVERY DAY! We may know the quirky decorations, happy hour deals and events that keep us going back but this month we took the time to get to know the story behind the iconic K1 Klub House.

magine having to pay a cover charge every time you went clubbing in Nairobi. Until K1 Klub House opened its doors in 1998, this was the norm! Waiving cover charge was the trick that made fun-lovers soon flock to K1. When they got in, they discovered the laid-back, quirky and creative vibe which makes the venue unique to this day. It was (and remains) the club with a hotel at the back and an aquarium at the bar. Driven by creativity and innovation, this fully Kenyanowned venue remains one of the city’s favourite fun hotspots twenty-one years on.

Far from being simply a club, it has become a cultural icon and hub that shapes the arts and entertainment scene in Kenya.

K1 was envisioned by its founders as a space offering a different entertainment experience from what the city was used to. Right at the entrance, this intention is visible from the signs that read party zone and fun starts here. From the first small acts of waiving the cover charge and hosting live bands, its game-changing moves have taken bolder strides which have shaped Nairobi’s cultural landscape in surprising ways. One Love Thursdays with Kris Darlin and the Dohty Family started 10 years ago.

At the time, reggae was popular but not mainstream. Having a reggae theme night was a risky move at the time but the concept grew into a landmark night out. Now, not only have reggae theme nights become standard in the club scene but big Thursday nights out have also become standard fare.

Sitting decisively in a corner of the K1 compound is Pitcher & Butch, a pub which is also a distinct part of Nairobi’s collective cultural story. It is the home of Jazz Nite Tuesdays. When the pub was constructed in 2000 it was the coolest watering hole in town for its modern vibe inspired by African aesthetic. Before Jazz Nite began, bars in Nairobi would close by 11pm because nobody went out on Tuesday night. Safe to say that these days, Tuesday nights are lively at K1! Have you ever wondered where the name Pitcher & Butch came from?

It was named after one of the earliest customers called Butch. He was such a regular member at the club that some people thought he owned the place. The word pitcher was combined with his name to make Pitcher & Butch.

If you are new to Nairobi and want to know the best place to catch a football match, it will be difficult to avoid hearing the name K1. This is because of Soccer City, the miniature stadium constructed in 2010 with a giant screen that became iconic. It has now been revamped and renamed the Round House, an inspiring space that not only caters to sports fans but also plays home to musicians, movie lovers, stand- up comedians and gamers who hone their craft and connect with their creative communities there every week. Since the K1 Sunday Flea Market opened in early 2017, it has become synonymous with Sunday socializing: brunch, shopping and evening parties. K1 is the place where entertainment is always evolving. A new monthly event that takes place is K1 Kocktails, a cocktail masterclass where people get to make their own cocktails, connect and share great food.

Most recently, a new menu was introduced that includes the old favourites like kuku and mbuzi with a twist. Build Your Own Board (BYOB) is a section of the menu that allows you to design a sharing board to your taste from a wide selection of bitings inspired by global cuisine, from Korean chicken to spicy ugali bites. There is also a coffee bar called Klub Koffee next to the Kar Wash. It might surprise you to learn that K1 never closes. It is open 24/7. Where else can you wait to get your car washed as you savour a meal at a bar by an aquarium?

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NEWS FEED

SARAFINA THE MUSICAL The sound of freedom!

It’s back! The powerful theatrical musical adapted from the eponymous South African movie and stage show will be showing again this month. Talented Kenyan actors and actresses such as Sheila Munyiva, Mkamzee Mwatela and Martin Githinji will be re-telling this classic story of patriotism and justice.

Catch it with friends and family (and bring your handkerchiefs, this one’s a tearjerker).

Kenya National Theatre 18th - 28th July

SAMANTHA’S BRIDAL EXPO We hear wedding bells!

Planning a wedding any time soon? Then you’re in luck! Here is your chance to meet over 125 wedding vendors who include designers, planners, caterers and coaches.

You will be spoilt for choice at this beauty and style affair which will culminate in a stunning catwalk.

Sarit Centre 20th July

NAIROBI & MOMBASA BURGER WEEK It’s burger time!

EatOut will be putting the ‘B’ in the burger.

You’ll get to devour the thick and juicy burgers Nairobi and Mombasa have to offer. From 2 for 1 burger deals as well as complimentary drinks, this is the kind of festival you don’t want to miss out on. You’re encouraged to bring with you nothing but your appetite and of course, friends and family.

5-15th August

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NEWS FEED

DIAGEO WORLD CLASS BARTENDER The Winning Drink Dusit D2’s mixologist, Angeliqua Rivera, will be representing Kenya in Glasgow, Scotland in September 2019. This comes after her win at the Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year Competition. Her winning cocktail dubbed ‘Fallen Heroes’ was made and named in honour of her colleagues who lost their lives in January this year.

KERICHO GOLD SUPERBRANDS STATUS The Tea is Excellent Kenya’s high-quality tea producer has received a stamp of approval for their efforts. They now have the Superbrands Seal for their quality of tea leaves. The seal is revered by East African brands as it signifies a brand’s capability to produce premium and quality products.

MORE NEWS

JASMINE MACHARIA RELEASES COOKBOOK

THE SHACK NAIROBI OPENS AN ARTSY FOOD TRUCK

ARTCAFFE TO OPEN NEW BRANCHES

Award-winning food blogger, author and Yummy magazine contributor, Jasmine Macharia, recently launched a cookbook titled ‘Joyful’ which has 70 recipes ranging from lunch, dinner, comfort food, salads, sweet treats, bitings and more.

The Shack Nairobi has opened a new outlet in Karen. The food truck is covered in magnificent artwork.They’re located at the One Stop Arcade mini shopping centre in Karen and their only request is to come hungry!

Look out CBD and Kitengela, Artcaffe is coming your way soon! Set to open along Kimathi Street and in Kitengela, Artcaffe is taking huge strides in an effort to expand.

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DINNER WITH

DINNER WITH ENDO SQUARED This month, Lucy Munene talks culture, stereotypes and tea with the stunning Endo sisters, owners of Endo Squared at the newly opened Blue Door Restaurant.

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hat comes to my mind when I hear the word melting pot is a literal pot, filled with all kinds of delicacies all heftily mixed together forming a medley of everything that’s good in each of them. As I walked into this interview with the staggering Endo sisters, this is what I had in mind.

You may have encountered the Endo sisters in one way or another but I am here to present them to you in the capacity that I met them after years of fawning over their aesthetically pleasing brand Endo Squared.

As a lover of all things coloured in crisp white and vibrant minimalist VSCO presets, and a fan of the two, the nerves were there and the questions did not seem like they were enough but I managed to cheerfully greet my interviewees who breezed into the newly opened Blue Door comfortably dressed in t-shirts and jeans.

We started off with the age-old question of what culture and roots mean. “The first thing I think of is home and where I’m from,” Yvonne stated simply as Patti nodded in agreement.

In the way that sisters talk fondly in unison then over each other correcting mistakes and filling in gaps, they explained: “We have more Japanese influences in our life but one thing we did discover that is a Kenyan thing/ habit is taking warm milk with everything like cereal or even on its own.”

This threw me off because, until this interview, I did not realise that my love for warm milk in cereal was something national.

As with most people, our habits are a representation of our upbringing, good or bad. Patti considered this, and shares her story of how they picked up a number of Japanese habits from their mother such as saying the phrases “itadakimasu” and “gochisousama” which can be roughly translated to “let’s eat” and “thank you for the delicious meal”.

Eventually, the conversation steered towards one of my least favourite topics: stereotypes. We all know that every countries’ citizens are associated with certain characteristics and here, the Endo sisters are no exception. “I was a good student but I was terrible at math which was strange because the assumption is all Asians are good at math,” Patti reflected, followed by Yvonne chiming in: “We get mistaken for Chinese and Koreans as well! No one ever guesses that we’re half Japanese. On the other hand, Patti is great at bargaining.”

This little teaser does little justice to the rest of the interview but, fear not, you can read the rest of the interview on

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRAIN SIAMBI

www.yummy.co.ke

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BATELEUR

Y UE M N W MOY N T H E B L O C K

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MANARA RESTAURANT Located at Westfield Mall on Gitanga Road, this spot has been open for about three months now and has an airy feel to it that immediately reminded me of Mombasa. If you’ve walked around Mombasa a lot, you’ll be familiar with the restaurants that are almost pressed up on the side of the road, large windows, open airy spaces and wafts of amazing food floating around you. That’s what Manara felt like to me. My family and I sat down and marvelled over the decor that was simple but obviously crafted with love.

Being a person who is always hungry person, the menu was a delight for they have lots of pictures of their actual food (Hurrah!) and when our order was being taken by the gracious host Yusuf, we ordered food for six people (we were three). If you come across a menu that has Mahamri and Baazi, Biryani, Mezze, Mandi, Shawarmas AND Baklava, you would over-order too. No regrets! The food was so homely I felt like I knew the people who made it (maybe my mother snuck down here and cooked for me?). That was unlikely but that’s how good the food was. It was the epitome of that warm fuzzy feeling. And their tamarind juice? Not too sweet or bitter but with enough of a kick to know this is not your regular. It was surprisingly ideal with the meal and a soothing drink for the night.

I do not have enough space to talk about all of the food that was ordered but allow me to gush about the mezze that came with grilled meats, pickles, hummus, tabouleh and baba ganoush. It is my favourite meal in general but these guys made it even better. The servings were perfect and everything made with precision that I adore. Then, there’s the Mandi. Rice and mutton with caramelised onions to make a sweet and savoury dish that should come with a “causes abrupt naps” warning.

After this show of eating more than I can handle, we met the owner Khadija whose excitement for her work humbled me.

Khadija started off cooking at home and making deliveries until fans kept pushing

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FOR THE LOVE OF MAHAMRI In this issue of Yummy, editor Sanaa Mughal dives headfirst into meals that remind her of home.

MANARA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENYAN LIBRARY & EKTA PATEL

y family lives in Mombasa which means I am in a constant state of perpetual homesickness.

Homesick for the family, for the comfort of laughter and more importantly, for food. Wholesome food that does not confuse or complicate the palate. Food that reminds me of home and what it feels to belong. It’s not easy to find such places but when I do, I shout about it until readers like you feel what I feel. Here are a few places that made me feel less homesick:

N E W O N T H E YBUL M OM CK Y her to open her restaurant and she finally did. This loyal fanbase shows because even at 10pm at night, people linger and some, like me, need to be rolled out. I review a lot of restaurants and that brings me so much joy. This one though, this restaurant left me elated. You can find me there on Sunday’s drowning in their Mahamri.

P.s: After the meal, we were served mint tea and I believe this should become a staple everywhere.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK GITAU & LUCY MUNENE

MOMBASA MARKET

THE FOOD MOVEMENT I do not like long drives. I know it’s become the ‘in’ thing to do but no sir, I will not be jumping on that train. I would like my food close or even better, brought to me. Here’s the thing though, it’s my job to find new places to eat, with no bias. No matter the distance or cuisine, I will be there to try the food and tell you all about it. Therein lies The Food Movement. Located in Kilifi so many kilometres away from the road, I actually thought we were lost for a second. But that was part of the charm! A little hideaway spot that is unassuming and casual in the way only people on the coast can pull off. The space is also surrounded by creative spirits all busy with their own little projects as well as a beautiful farm that surrounds it.

After the long drive (during which I had nothing to eat), we finally reached the end of the labyrinth and met the owner Warren Wilson, an eccentric dreamer with a vision to create and a passion for food that led to the invention of The Food Movement and his menu. Having heard about this place from the Nomad team, I was already encouraged to try the Salmon and Mahamri but it wasn’t on the menu anymore. According to Warren, the menu is flexible and changes as the seasons do; he said it’s his way of making sure no one gets bored and that it allows the kitchen to continuously create.

In true Yummy style, we didn’t pick off the menu but allowed Warren to surprise us so after a few minutes of anticipation came Mahamri, Avocado, eggs and tamarind sauce, then fish tacos made with chapati, then a beautiful Kuku salad with breadcrumbed oyster mushrooms and finally for dessert, Mahamri stuffed with vanilla ice cream plus pineapple roasted with cinnamon. Everything was heartwarmingly delicious and dangerously addictive (I will be going back there for that mahamri every time I’m on the coast).

Interpretation is a beautiful thing. What The Food Movement has done is created fusion meals inspired by traditional Swahili meals and he does it so well!

FOOD MOVEMENT

THE SHACK

HONOURABLE MENTIONS THE SHACK NAIROBI The Shack has a new location and you know we had to try it! In addition to their space at Magharibi Place they have opened a new funky food truck at One Stop Arcade in Karen. Go hungry because their burgers will leave you unbuttoning your pants. Try the threepatty Shack Tower or their beef, chicken and steak patty Shack Powerhouse, you will not be disappointed.

The Food Movement is open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 3pm and you can easily find their pin location on google.

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D O R M A N S C YO UR M NM ER Y

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4 A stove-top or electric coffee maker that brews coffee by passing boiling water pressurized by steam through ground coffee 7 The first name of the 2019 Kenya National Barista Championship winner 8 A coffee brewing accessory usually made of disposable paper 10 Coffee from a particular region, farm or area (Hint: It’s two words) 12 A vacuum coffee maker brews coffee using two chambers where vapour pressure and vacuum produce coffee

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DORMANS CROSSWORD

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Send a picture of your completed crossword to social@dormanscoffee.com and info@yummy.co.ke to stand a chance to win Dormans merchandise.

1 The feeling of weight or thickness of coffee on your tongue 2 Italian word for coffee 3 The French word for ‘milk’ 5 The number of Kenya National Barista Championships that have happened 6 A species of coffee that is usually the first choice for speciality coffee, also known as ‘mountain coffee’ 9 The coffee experts 11 Italian word for ‘large’ 12 A milk substitute made from soya beans

AUDIO PODCASTS FROM KENYA (LEGALLY CLUELESS) This weekly podcast by Adelle Onyango is a safe space for everyone who may not feel like they have all their ducks in a row, whose life may not be going according to plan, who feels like other people have it figured out while they don’t. Here is where you will find kindred spirits: http://adelleonyango.com

Using her usual powerful and eloquent prose, Chimamanda takes us through the story of Kambili and her brother Jaja. They are used to living an orderly life shielded from the troubles of the world- following their schedules set by their dad, attending a private missionary school and doing everything they could to make their father proud. Their view of their father and home life is challenged when they visit their aunt, Ifeoma. Outside of the bubble created by their father, they learn about domestic violence, living in an abusive environment and the fine line between fear, respect and love.

Available at Bookstop Yaya Centre and Text Book Centre

KENYAN MUSIC (ONDI) Backed by the rhythmic strumming of a ukulele, Ondi’s soulful vocals will take you through a delightful musical journey. You will probably make this the soundtrack to your next road trip. You can find her 6 song EP on iTunes and catch her live acoustic performances at Lava Latte.

Ondi’s Tangawizi EP

VIDEO SHORT FILMS UNDER 15 MINUTES At 14 minutes and 19 seconds, this short film manages to capture the anxiety of putting together the perfect proposal for the perfect woman and missing it each time. Cheer James on as he tries to get his proposal right in under 15 minutes.

The Proposal: https://www.youtube.com

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Y HU OM MM E YG R O W N

W VIVA LA PASTA! Greenspoon founder, mother and entrepreneur Juliet Kennedy takes her love of pasta to the kitchen and the page! greenspoonke

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hen I visited Italy a few years ago, pasta was high on my list of foods to go crazy about (i.e. stuff myself with). We arrived in the Tuscan Hills on a warm Spring day under achingly blue skies. By day, we cooked and kneaded and learnt about the beauty of creating pasta from scratch. By night we took the train into Florence and ate gelato – not because we needed it – but just because we could. Everything we made in that kitchen, we ate. We tasted a simple stock and watched as our usually impatient Italian tutor paused to smack his lips and tell us this was simply the best stock you’d ever taste. He walked around pinching our pasta dough to see if it was elastic enough and ready to rest. We stopped to watch him deftly fold cappeletti or gently push pasta through the ‘guitar machine’ to make spaghetti alla chitarra. We learnt that good pasta doesn’t have to take a long time but that Italians enjoy the time that it takes and perhaps we should too.

Allow me to show you how easy pasta is to make by hand. The word itself originates from ‘paste’, and that’s a little of what it’s going to feel like to begin with until you’ve worked some attitude and stretchiness into creating a smooth dough. You’ll know when the dough is ready because it’ll be beautifully smooth, and when you pinch it, the dough should spring back a little like when you push into the palm of your hand. Always let it rest – you’ve just brought two strangers together to create something entirely new – you need them to spend at least half an hour bonding in the fridge. When you bring it out, allow it to warm up a touch before you start working it through the machine, and even then make sure you start rolling with about a quarter of the dough you’ll make in this recipe.

UO MW MN Y H O M E GY R

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENYAN LIBRARY

INGREDIENTS • 2 x fresh eggs – the best quality you can find • 200g all-purpose flour– white is best for pasta METHOD 1. Pour the flour onto a wooden surface and make a well in the middle. Crack the eggs (or egg mixture if doing beetroot or spinach) into the well. Using a fork, start gently whisking the eggs and slowly bringing the flour into the mixture. Don’t worry about how messy this is going to be – it’s part of the fun!

2. Slowly work the flour into the eggs until you have most of it mixed in. When you think it’s not too dry, start using your best tools – your hands.

3. Work the dough on this same surface to pick up all the flour. Knead continuously until you have a beautifully smooth dough that is elastic (i.e. bounces back when you pinch it).

If you need to put some more flour in, do, but you don’t want it to be too tough either.

4. Once this is complete, wrap in a beeswax cloth or clingfilm and put in the fridge for 30 minutes to rest.

5. After it’s rested, remove the pasta, cut into quarters and roll out one quarter with a rolling pin.

6. You can then put it through the widest setting on your pasta machine twice then set the pasta machine to the next width (getting narrower). The pasta should pass through each setting twice, and in the end, you’ll have a lovely long piece of pasta.

7. At this stage, you could attach the spaghetti function and make spaghetti or leave it in large pieces to make lasagne.

Allow it to dry for about an hour and then cook.

ADVENTURE PASTA GUIDE

beetroot. Blend the beetroot with the egg before following the recipe as above.

Spinach Pasta Substitute one egg for 75g cooked spinach or kale. Ensure you squeeze out as much of the liquid as possible before blending with the egg and then follow the method above.

Herb Pasta To make herb pasta, once you have two sheets of rolled out pasta (to the penultimate width on your pasta machine) take one piece of pasta and lay the herbs out on it.

Lay the other piece on top and gently roll your rolling pin over them to seal. Open up the pasta machine again and pass the pasta sheet through, gradually getting to narrower widths until the penultimate one… stop there. I recommend cutting it into thick pappardelle strips so that you can still enjoy the beauty of this pasta!

Beetroot Pasta Substitute one egg for 75g pickled or cooked

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PICKLE OFF

INSOMNIA ONION PICKLE Inspired by late-night antics and cravings, this concoction is the perfect balance of sweet and sour!

THE MEAN AND LEAN PICKLE An extra special pickle all the way from Eldoret

by Yummy team member CHILLI LEMON PICKLE

Ekta Patel’s grandmother.

Straight from the

This pickle has the right

cookbook of our editors’

amount of oomph to

mother, this pickle tastes

make any

of home and goes perfect

dish special!

with anything that needs a little jump from pilau to a curry.

NANCY’S “ALL THE TEARS” CHILLI The chilli to put all others to shame made by the Yummy teams in house cook Nancy who spoils the

TheSECRET Family

Secret no more! We share our favourite recipes for homemade pickles and sauces! You can’t trust much, but you can always trust these classics.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUCY MUNENE

team with her food!

YUMMY

PERNOD RICCARD

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MU Y O N T H EY U MM EN

DEATH BY CHOCOLATE CAKE

ONE FOR

the ages

Kavita Khimji, also know as Kook Food online is a mother, wife and food lover inspired by the places she visits and ingredients she finds. In this issue, she looks back at dishes that impacted her life through the years.

WITH HIMALAYAN PINK SALT & FROZEN RASPBERRIES Being in a boarding school nestled at the foothills of the Himalayas, we really were in our own bubble; a massive, incredibly breathtaking beautiful bubble, surrounded by sky-high pine trees and dreamy clouds.

School food was mostly terrible; any excuse to skip a cafeteria meal was a joy, even if it meant trying to find ways to elevate the humble instant noodle (which was a daily staple in our lives). However, springtime would come and with it came coke floats with death by chocolate cake. It was the small, simplest pleasures that kept us so happy up there in the mountains.

kook.food Prep Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 15 minutes Serves: 8

INGREDIENTS • 90g flour • 60g caster sugar • 1 tablespoon cocoa powder • 150g dark chocolate • 80g milk chocolate • 110g unsalted butter, room temperature • 3 eggs, room temperature • ½ teaspoon crushed pink Himalayan Salt • A large handful of frozen raspberries Icing sugar and cocoa powder for dusting.

METHOD: 1. Preheat oven to 175 degrees Celsius, butter & sprinkle your preferred cake pan lightly with flour.

2. Break up the chocolate into pieces and place in a heatproof bowl with the butter.

3. Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water, stirring and allowing the chocolate to melt. Once melted, set aside.

4. Combine the flour, caster sugar and a pinch of salt and mix well. Add the melted chocolate & eggs and whisk until smooth.

5. Pour into a cake pan and bake for 13-15 minutes. Remove and allow to cool for a few minutes.

6. To serve, sprinkle with Himalayan salt and dust lightly with icing sugar and cocoa powder. Top with frozen raspberries & enjoy!

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Y OU N MTMHYE M E N U

OVERNIGHT FRENCH TOAST WITH A MAPLE & PECAN GRANOLA CRUNCH For as long as I can remember, my mum’s French toast has always been my favourite thing to eat. Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch or dinner – I am always game for a large stack of French toast with a side of watermelon juice. All her food is made with so much love, and that’s what this recipe is all about - love in one dish. Indulgent but quick to make and perfect for a family brunch on a Sunday morning.

Prep Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 35 - 40 minutes Serves: 4 - 6 INGREDIENTS • 4 x 1-inch slices of brioche bread • 2 eggs • 3/4 cup milk • ¼ cup double cream • 1 tablespoon brown sugar • 1 teaspoon cinnamon powder • 2 tablespoons oats • ¼ cup pecans, roughly chopped • 1 tablespoon butter • 1 tablespoon maple syrup METHOD 1. Whisk the eggs, milk & double cream together. Add the brown sugar & cinnamon powder and set aside.

2. In a lightly buttered baking tray, place the slices of bread overlapping slightly and pour the milk and egg mixture over. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

3. For the pecan crunch, mix the oats, pecans, butter and maple syrup.

4. Preheat oven to 175 degrees Celsius and remove baking tray 20 minutes before baking.

5. Sprinkle pecan crunch and bake covered with foil for 20 minutes.

6. Remove foil and continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes until bread is puffed and golden.

7. Serve with fresh maple syrup and fruit.

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ON THE MENU

O N T H EY U MM EN MU Y

NOTES Always bring steaks to room temperature before cooking.

Flipping the side every minute ensures the meat cooks evenly and to keep it juicy and seasoned, basting works wonders. For a rare steak, do this for a total of 2 minutes on each side (as per above), for medium a total of 3 minutes (flip the steaks one more time on each side and baste) and well done for a total of 4 minutes on each side (flip steaks two more times on each side and baste).

TRUFFLE FILLET WITH ROCKET, PARMESAN & MATCHSTICK FRIES My husband and I are just made for each other. As an equally obsessed foodie and my biggest fan, he’s the go-to taster when it comes to my culinary escapades. He always insists the best meals are the simplest ones that come together with a handful of ingredients. This dish is just that and it’s inspired by Gordon Ramsey. With simple ingredients, it focuses on getting the cooking technique just right for a beautifully seared, seasoned and juicy steak. The quality of cut makes a massive difference too which is why I used a wet aged fillet from The Local Grill which melts in your mouth!

Prep Time: 10 minutes Cooking Time: 15 minutes Serves: 8 INGREDIENTS Steaks • 2 fillets, about 150g, 2cm thick • 4 tablespoons good quality olive oil • 2 tablespoons butter • 6 - 8 garlic cloves, crushed • 1 sprig rosemary • Freshly ground black pepper • Rock salt • Truffle oil TO SERVE • Rocket • Shaved parmesan • Matchstick fries

cloves & the rosemary sprig.

2. Heat a heavy bottom or cast-iron skillet over a medium to high heat until smoking.

Pour olive oil into pan and sear steak for a minute. Add the garlic pieces and rosemary sprig from the marinade into the pan to add flavour to the fillets.

3. Using a pair of tongs, flip the steak for another minute to the other side. Flip and render the sides for 30 seconds on each. Flip back again and add the butter, tilt the pan and baste the steaks, cooking for 1 minute then repeat with the other side.

4. Remove from heat, drizzle with truffle oil and rest for 2 minutes.

5. To serve, layer with matchstick fries, followed by the steak, rocket and finally parmesan. Drizzle with pan juices, crispy garlic, salt & freshly ground black pepper.

METHOD 1. Season the fillets generously with salt, black pepper & 1 tablespoon olive oil and marinate overnight with crushed garlic

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ROOTS SPECIAL

Peanut brittle

Sesame brittle Hibiscus

Achari

Turmeric

VM

Halwa

Mabuyu

Kashata

Mombasa FLAVOUR The pride of the Coast, all in one place! These snacks are home to Mombasa and are a reflection of the melting pot of culture and history that is the Coast.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SABAH JABEEN

Achari

QUICK BITES

Masala Tea

2 cups fresh milk, 2 cups water, 2 tablespoons loose pure Kenyan black tea, 2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and sliced, 1 cinnamon stick, 6 cardamom pods, 6 whole cloves, ½ teaspoon black pepper (optional)

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

In a deep saucepan or sufuria, bring the water to a boil.

Reduce heat to low and add the tea, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and sugar.

Simmer for 3 minutes.

Stir in the milk and continue to simmer for another 2 minutes.

Pour through a fine-mesh sieve and serve hot.

Old Habits Die Hard Sonali Sumaria takes a break from hunting down great vegetarian food in Nairobi to indulge in some nostalgia about things most of us experienced in our childhood.

1. Crockery sets for ‘special’ guests We all have a selection of crockery, cutlery, and glassware used just for guests. They sit in their special cabinets for so long that you don’t even remember they exist. Perhaps we’ll have to invite the president to our next family dinner and we might just get the chance to use them.

2. Collecting disposables Do you instinctively save all those containers, plastic bottles, and shopping bags? Probably because you watched your parents do that your whole life. There is no problem with reusing these, but I doubt you’ll ever need a FULL cupboard (or two) of Blueband containers?

3. Having a special sufuria for tea We all have that sufuria you are not allowed to touch unless it’s for making a hot cup of tea!

Don’ttell my mum but I’ve used hers for every

thing else but tea (of course when she isn’t there).

4. Sharing at restaurants Only when you travel abroad do you realize that it’s completely normal to order your own dish at restaurants. I am so used to sharing everything with the rest of the table, that I’m never able to finish my dish when I order my own!

5. Using every drop of… everything!

Ever use some water to remove the last bit of soup in a tin, sauce from a bottle or washing liquid from the container? It seems so normal to do this but at some point, this was probably drilled into us by our parents.

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CHEF CONFIDENTIAL

Rumasha Beni is the 22-year-old chef and owner at Kivu Cafe, Born in Congo and raised in Kenya, his multicultural background is the backbone to Kivu’s Afro-continental cuisine.

T

wo months into the third University strike, can’t remember if it was the students or the professors shouting on the news this time, all I knew was, I was getting tired of staring at the ceiling every morning with nothing to do that day, and the next, and the next.

I started to look forward to the parts of my day with anything going on; whether it was going to the shops, exercising or even cooking! Living alone means you decide what’s for lunch and dinner every day and boredom means getting very aware of how many times you’ve had beans and rice this week.

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RECIPES: Sombe (classic) Prep - 20min | Cook time - 2hrs INGREDIENTS: • 250gm Sombe • 100gm of Congolese “Nyanya” • 2 large leeks • 2 large onions • Half a clove of garlic • 50g of groundnuts • 4 tablespoons of Palm oil • 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil • One teaspoon of baking soda • 2 teaspoons of salt

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICK GITAU

TALES FROM KIVU

Before all my YouTube, MasterChef and Bon Appetit suggestions were “how to make” videos, I’d remember how my mum’s Sunday chicken tasted or my sister’s breakfast crepes, the maid’s matumbo stew was heavenly and the samosas from the kibanda down the road were gourmet for all I cared.

For the next two months, you’d find me asleep during the day, awake at 3am testing frying temperatures and marinating lamb or at the markets in the afternoon trying to get the mama mbogas to explain to me how to turn butternut and snow peas into a sauce! I was in love with cooking, and if taste counts for anything, then cooking loved me too.

I’m a Kenyan born in DRC, into a beautiful Congolese family but raised entirely in Kenya.

When we weren’t making fun of how Kenyans spoke Swahili or when my friend’s weren’t making Papa Felolo and bolingo jokes, we were eating. I ate with at home the most amazing Congolese food on the planet and outside I was introduced to the beauty of Kenyan ingredients. We really all look for the same things from food, cooking is where the cultural magic happens. Now I’m happiest when I’m imitating cultural dishes, blending ingredients and sprinkling international techniques from my YouTube teachers. That’s what Kivu is! My little private catering and delivery eatery where you call me when you want adventurous, affordable, damn near artistic plates of gourmet food. Bringing the Afro-fusion hard into our afro-continental cuisine. Food built off of memories and a bold goal to expand the food-curious citizens of the city, hopefully soon, the world.

January 2018 I was just a vet-med student waiting for the news update that school ‘might’ be back on this month, or the next.

Now I’m living and working as a chef, happier than I have ever been. The sound of the crisping fish skin on that olive oil glazed skillet was too loud for me, now I stare jittery and proud as people taste my food and say “What? Oh wow, how’d you make this? What’s in this?” I can do this forever and I plan to!

CHEF CONFIDENTIAL

• 2 teaspoons of black pepper • 2 teaspoons of fresh nutmeg • 4 cups of water METHOD: 1. In a large pot add 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, heat up and add and saute onions, leeks and garlic.

2. Mix in the sombe with the aromatics. Mix well for about 2 minutes.

3. Add 2 cups of water, all the salt, black pepper and nutmeg, and allow to simmer for an hour (covered) until 2 thirds of water are reduced. 15 minutes into the long simmer, add your diced “nyanya” and the teaspoon of baking soda, leave to boil.

4. Mix in the palm oil and allow to cook for another 15 minutes.

5. Add the crushed ground nuts or two tablespoons of peanut butter mixed in with a little water. Allow Sombe to simmer on medium low for 20 to 30 more minutes.

Serve hot with Fufu Creamy Potato Soup Prep - 20 minutes | Cook time - 40 minutes INGREDIENTS • 200g of potatoes • 2 large carrots • 100g of snow peas • 1 large onion • Half a clove of garlic • Dill • 1 teaspoon of lemon zest • 2 teaspoons of salt, black pepper • 1 teaspoon of paprika • Half a teaspoon of chilli flakes • Half a tub of butter or 3 tablespoons of margarine/ vegetable oil/ animal fat.

METHOD 1. In half of the butter or cooking fat, saute the onions and garlic.

2. On medium-high heat, add the finely chopped snow peas and grated carrots. Mix well and cook for 5 minutes.

3. Add the finely grated potatoes on medium-low heat, add salt, paprika, chilli flakes. Mix well until the potatoes start to stick on the pot.

4. Add two cups of water to deglaze, and allow to boil until the water is reduced by 3/4.

5. Add the rest of the butter or fat, stir in to incorporate.

6. Add the milk and continue staring as it thickens slightly. If it’s too thick, add water and stir to a preferred creamy soup-like consistency.

Serve hot!

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YUMMY

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ART OF

THE ART OF TRADITIONAL FOOD Raechelle Rapozo is a photographer and skilled homecook who reguarly hosts pop-up dinners. In this series, she explores traditional Goan and South Indian cooking that is reminscient of her and her husband’s roots. These dishes are made with love, passion and locally sourced ingredients that is a reflection of how people have always done it. With food moving away into a relm of innovation, we’re taking a look back at what was with the hope of always retaining the true nature of home cooking.

Prawn Curry with Lady Finger & Goan Red Rice In Every Goan home, seafood that comprises of Fish Curry and rice is a regular meal. This curry is traditionally cooked in a clay pot and cooked with coconut oil. If you love coconut this curry is something that will get your tastebuds talking.

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ART OF

Sorpotel Sorpotel is a Portuguese dish now commonly cooked in Goa. During Christmas time, it is a tradition in each Goan house to cook the delicious Pork Sorpotel.

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ART OF

Goan Chorizo The Goan sausage is a typical reflection of Indo-Portuguese cuisine from Goa, It is made with pork and various other ingredients, which make it spicy. It is usually served in a curry, boiled or fried.

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YU H I SMTMO YR Y O F

THE ORIGIN OF SOY SAUCE

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To celebrate our roots issue, the team from Kikkoman Soy Sauce share their knowledge of the beginning and future of Soy Sauce.

oy sauce is a fermented seasoning that developed from preserved foods and their seasonings, known as jiang, in ancient China.

It eventually made its way to Japan around the 7th century, whereby the middle of the 17th century the way of making soy sauce gradually developed into the traditional Japanese brewing process, which produces naturally brewed soy sauce. It has become an indispensable part of Japanese cuisine, and everything from sushi to soups has a dash of it.

Made using only three ingredients (wheat, soybeans and salt), traditionally brewed soy sauce is fermented and brewed for several months, resulting in a rich aroma and delicious taste. The hundreds of flavour components that form as a result of the fermentation process give soy sauce all of the five tastes and enable it to season almost anything. Soy sauce also helps to eliminate unpleasant odours from fish and meat, gives

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foods a more appealing look, stimulates the appetite, and can also be used to enhance the original flavour of any ingredient.

Originally an Asian seasoning, it started being exported overseas to cater to the needs of Asian immigrants living abroad, and others soon started to use it to season other kinds of dishes. Exports of traditionally brewed Kikkoman Soy Sauce started in the mid-19th century. Kikkoman, with a history that dates back over 300 years ago, launched full-scale marketing efforts first in North America, then Europe, and later in other regions throughout the world from the middle of the 20th century.

As the world’s largest producer of soy sauce, Kikkoman now provides its naturally brewed soy sauce to consumers in over 100 countries all over the world. Now a global seasoning, soy sauce is used not only to season Asian cuisine but also used as a new part of local dishes. For example, it is being used to help marinate meat before

barbecuing, added to ice cream to make it sweeter, and replaces salt in dishes to lower the amount of sodium.

In recent years, the popularity of soy sauce-based seasonings has also grown, with soy sauce being added to marinades, noodle soup bases, salad dressings, stews and even porridge. With growing health consciousness among consumers, low-salt versions and gluten-free soy sauce made without wheat have also appeared on the market. There are now chemically-produced soy sauces that can be manufactured within several weeks, but they do not compare to traditionally brewed soy sauce with its balanced flavour and aroma and use artificial additives and preservatives.

As soy sauce continues its evolution and becomes a part of more and more food cultures, it will undoubtedly be incorporated in various cuisines and dishes to create new unimaginable and tasty delights.

H I S T OY RU YM M OF Y

DISPATCH FROM THE DUST Anselm from Kitengela glass shares the story of his journey with glass making.

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he verdant green surrounding me as I write this on the Athi Kapiti plains belies the hollow-eyed drought that was staring us in the face. A few days of tropical monsoon have transformed our dry environs into a lush bucolic paradise.

I feel we appreciate it more because we are always on the cusp of it being just a little too dry. The Limuru lawns of my youth remain a memory because the amount of water needed to maintain even a postage stamp patch of grass is not justifiable here.

I was a callow youth when we moved to the Kitengela plains in 1979. My main obsession was raising baby birds and playing with electronics. When I finished my schooling, lower and upper, I decided to help my mum out in her business of stained glass making.

After a short course in France circa 1990 with some Dutch glassmakers, the objective of which was to encounter hot glass for the first time, I was properly hooked. We needed to try and make flat glass to mitigate the cost of the properly expensive coloured sheets in our stained-glass panels.

Having discovered the magic of the melt, I found there was a lot more that could be made - and so the journey began. Part of my original mission was to inculcate a new (old) craft – the Kenyan aptitude for hand working clay, wood, bone, metal, and beads seemed to miss the medium of glass, so why not?

It hasn’t all been plain sailing. Little in

glass making is but that’s part of the fun – the capricious nature of our molten mistress is what makes her so alluring to those of us that gather to her whim.

I was installing a piece in Nyali over the weekend – an entrance portico of green glass banana leaves that create a wash of emerald cool as you approach the front door. It rained pretty much continuously while I was drilling the panels into place.

Fortunately, the stainless-steel framing, me and the glass itself are all waterproof.

The tools not so much, so we worked under jua-kali umbrellas and plastic sheeting to avoid smoking the Makita.The leaf sections were cut from blown plates – the stock that we use for the technique we call ‘funky fencing’. It’s a homegrown discipline. Like most things we do the style and skill have evolved on the job and my guys have, to coin a phrase, cracked it.

Our style of blowing is generally bit rough and ready. The soda-lime window and bottle glass we use is not designed for the hand, so we’ve had to figure out a slightly swifter methodology to accommodate the rapid cooling and loss of plasticity that happens when working with recycled glass. One of the things that we’ve had to learn is how to accept the limitations of our medium and take advantage of the speed that we need to get things done.

My current favourite product is the ‘thumbler’ – so dubbed by my brother Lengai because it looks like your thumb is bulging the glass inwards. I like it because it really feels like you’ve got a good grip on the piece and the optical and physical illusion is that you have, indeed, distorted the object with the power of your grip. We’re also working on a series of giant garden chandeliers – another of our homegrown styles is the jua-kali assembly of huge pieces. An adjunct to one of our other favourite products, the garden jewellery, these generally have a floral flair – foliage lends itself well to the inspiration underlying these glass creations.

The tough organic nature of our material, its inherent fluidity and the frozen magic of light and bubbles all enhance the effect of a captured moment of time, a piece of right now, forever.

The variety of products that we offer our clientele is borne of survival in the business climate – like the ubiquitous corner shop, we had to try to offer anything anyone wanted in the way of glass. The challenge now comes in curating our product range, a process of tidying the cobwebby catalogue, if you will.

Anyway - I must get back to the grindstone – my hungry furnace roars in the background, needing feeding with energy – both human and hydrocarbon - so that we can milk it of the honeyed glass within.

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TRIED & TASTED a meal at an Indian restaurant without ordering it. Great, now that we got those basic facts out of the way let’s discuss types of naan. Sure, you could go with the classic garlic or butter but if you’re feeling fuego, order the chilli/bullet/turbo naan. My favourite - and most densely chilli-packed naan - is the turbo naan from Chowpaty. No need to ask for additional chilli on the side, you’ve got your fair share on the soft, pillowy, fresh-out-the-oven slice of dough.

WINGS Wings Kenya Spicy chicken wings are a staple on any wing menu. Buffalo Wings are classic and usually the mildest wings with a few adventurous “habanero” or “flaming hot” takes. Wings Kenya has what they call the Nuke Wings Challenge, not for the faint of heart. Served by waitrons in hazmat suits ringing a bell akin to shaming Cersei, this plate of torturously-hot wings will have you downing pints of milk. These aren’t wings to ‘enjoy’ they’re wings for fame. Finish a plate of these and get your name cast on the wall alongside other brave-hearted participants.

IT’S CHILLI OUT It may be cold but that doesn’t mean your only source of heat is a blanket.

Soni Adriance shares her top spots where you can test your taste buds and warm up from the inside out.

T

he Internet never forgets and unfortunately for me, the words “if I’m not sweating, I’m not eating” are now immortalized on YouTube.

Don’t Google it. However ridiculous, it’s a true statement; I love spicy food. I’m like your aunt who salts food without tasting it, except in this case the salt is a squeeze of Akabanga or a scoop of green chilis in olive oil…and that’s tame. My love for spicy food knows no bounds so when followers on Instagram suggested I review the best spicy food in the city, it was an honour and a privilege to oblige. In order to take on the task (we have a lot of good spice to choose from) I decided to break it down by food category. I hope you take the time to warm yourself from the inside out this rainy season and the next time you try one of the below, you get a little hot under the collar.

BURGER J’s Fresh Bar and Kitchen Although currently discontinued, the aptly named Dragon Burger was designed to have you breathing fire. The Dragon Burger was introduced during the Nairobi Burger Festival in 2018 and was made up of a double beef patty, two layers of sauteed

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chilli, melted cheese, tomatoes, pickles and lettuce. Before eating competitions were a dime a dozen, J’s was offering a shot of tequila for anyone who could ‘slay the dragon’ (finish the burger).

It was great. J’s, if you’re reading this #BringBackTheDragonBurger.

RAMEN Chekafe Adding a dab of chilli oil into a steaming bowl of ramen in this weather is probably the most comforting feeling after snuggling up by a fire. At Chekafe, the Spicy Noodle is a 5-inch deep bowl of homemade noodles, spicy chicken and a thick flavourful broth made with sesame paste and chicken. When asked how spicy you want the noodles, insist on the “very” (I may have even added that I want the chef to assault my taste buds).

What you’ll get is a broth that will make your nose run and your lips tingle. If that doesn’t do it for you, they are happy to serve you additional chilli oil on the side.

NAAN Indian Restaurants You can’t call yourself an Indian restaurant without serving naan and you can’t have

PIZZA Ashiana Although an Indian restaurant might not be your first choice for a pizza, if you like spicy food, you may want to reconsider. The Hot Indiana pizza comes on a thin crust with tomatoes, cheese and lots of green chilli.

The amount of bird’s eye green chilli on the pizza may make you wonder if the chef sneezed when holding the chilli container over the dough and turned it into a happy accident. This pizza will have you sharply inhaling air through clenched teeth and that’s a compliment.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS First is the Artcaffe homemade chilli.

This tangy green chilli sauce is a perfect balance for chilli lovers and enthusiasts alike.

At flea markets and festivals (such as The Nairobi Flea Market), you’ll find local vendors selling delicious homemade hot sauce. Mdalasini has ‘got the hots for you’ selling chilli sauces aptly named “Tear Gas” and “TNT”. Last but not least, a good friend of mine gifted me a bottle of Ma Phoebe’s Sauces which she got from The Nairobi Flea Market and it was flavourful chilli, great for cooking, as a condiment or even added to a marinade.

Support local and ensure you never have to endure a bland meal again.

YUMMY

TAPAS

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YUMMY FOCUS

B

ased in Nairobi, Everything Pumpkin is a food company dedicated to offering an exciting culinary experience. We do this through a range of products made from fresh, locally sourced pumpkins. We have a delectable pastry selection with everything from cinnamon rolls to gluten-free loaves, pumpkin scones, and pumpkin pies. We also feature savoury products such as our signature pumpkin curry dip, which is a fan favorite.

Everything Pumpkin started a year ago after a big pumfavouritepkin harvest. Our test kitchen lead comes from a farm in Kitale and her dad generously distributed the pumpkins to friends and family. We didn’t want any pumpkins to go bad and thought - why not have a pumpkin-themed party and game-night to use up the pumpkins? We invited a few friends and made pumpkin soup, cocktails, and cookies, which were all a hit! The next morning, we woke up giddy and thought - Pumpkin Everything? Everything Pumpkin! Let’s play!

WHY PUMPKIN? Why not Pumpkin?! There is a reason we feed even children pumpkins! They are highly nutritious but are an often-overlooked super fruit. Pumpkins are packed with vitamins, (including beta carotene that your body needs to manufacture Vitamin A), potassium (linked to proper heart and muscle function), and antioxidants (which help to bolster the immune system).

Furthermore, the high-fiber flesh from pumpkins can keep your belly full while keeping calories low.

Unfortunately, many people growing up in Kenya have unpleasant (often childhood) experiences with pumpkins. They were either cooked poorly and/or the pumpkins that were used were watery with an unforgivably flat flavor or stringy texture. If you were brought up in the west, perhaps pumpkins evoke happy memories of fall and the seasonal holidays associated with that - Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

Otherwise, you’re probably a local who cannot bear the thought of eating pumpkins but will happily pass on the ritual pumpkin feedings to your children.

Regardless of your background and history with pumpkins, we are confident that you can enjoy a trauma-free pumpkin culinary experience with Everything Pumpkin! The first step is getting the right kinds of pumpkin - it’s the base for most of our recipes, after all. We’ve found that the

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EVERYTHING PUMPKIN best cooking pumpkins are smaller, dense for their size, and will have bits of both green and orange/yellow on the outside.

We’ve written more about ‘how to find your perfect pumpkin’ on our blog and you can find more tips there.

Pumpkins will either get watery or acquire an unpleasant rubbery texture if over-cooked. You want to boil them in a pot filled quarter to halfway with water just until a fork can easily go through the flesh. This can take up to 40mins depending on the size of your pot. Be sure to drain the water shortly thereafter (or save it for vegetable stock!) We also typically boil our pumpkins with the skin on - it’s much easier to peel them after boiling than when they are raw.

Fun fact though - pumpkin peels are totally edible!

We would equate our pumpkin journey to the scene in Cinderella where the fairy godmother waves her magic wand and this forgotten fruit magically becomes a

YIUMMY

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY EVERYTHING PUMPKIN

Y U M M Y YFUO M CM US Y

Y FOCUS carriage. That kind of magic is possible with the right team and a little bit of imagination!

At the start, we had a bunch of really quirky people on the founding team who love to create – they both fueled and fed off that initial excitement around pumpkins. For instance, we had a design-thinking member who led our business development and is responsible for many of the beautiful graphics you see on our website. We also had an incredibly talented photographer who is an avid foodie and travel junkie - she added a lot of creative depth to our palette both food and content-wise. When it came to creating, nothing was off limits. We maintained a child-like sense of wonder and had fun even though running a business is hard work!

Our test kitchen lead has a background in biochemistry and she equates baking to being in a lab - only she can eat what she makes. Baking is a precise science that also gives room for artistic expression – a

beautiful intersection of science, art and food. And who doesn’t melt at the smell of freshly baked goods? The team at Modernist Cuisine explains these Maillaird reactions beautifully: “These reactions—in which sugars combine with amino acids to form tasty golden and umber complexes— throw off lots of volatile aromatic compounds that float through the kitchen air and into your nostrils.” We live for those moments when we bake.

We currently source our pumpkins from local farmers, and send our seeds back to them for quality control. This way, we propagate only the best pumpkins. Our ultimate goal is to work with local farmers to up pumpkin production and consumption in the local market. Pumpkins can grow year round in Kenya, and they can keep for up to 6 months under the right conditions.

With these factors, food insecurity could be a thing of the past.

We also want to change the local

perception of pumpkins. People’s first reaction to Everything Pumpkin is often surprise or apprehension. However, like one of our returning customers likes to say, “It’s not what you expect!” Our goods are truly delicious and we constantly work to develop and improve our recipes. We want to be the one-stop-shop for some of the best-baked goods and food products in Nairobi – all ofcourse with a touch of pumpkin! everythingpumpkin

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YU S WM EM E TY S P O T

Sweet treats FROM HOME J.Mwai brings back fond (and sweet) memories as she rediscovers classic Kenyan desserts that have been reimagined and updated by clever chefs around Nairobi. j.mwai

NYAMA MAMA

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Y S W E E TY USMP M OT

SAROVA STANLEY

SAROVA STANLEY

KASHATA & KOROSHO MRAMBA AT SAROVA STANLEY As a kid back in the day when the world was nothing but a cosmic amusement park, my sweet tooth held a dangerous adoration for kashata and korosho mramba. So you can imagine my excitement at The Sarova Stanley when Pastry Chef Joan Wanjohi got me to sample some of the desserts enjoyed at their famous Swahili themed Friday Breakfast. The breakfast is hosted at the Stanley’s Thorn Tree restaurant and serves more than 20 Swahili breakfast dishes such as kaimati, mahamri, samosas, mbaazi, crispy coated potatoes (viazi karai), bhajia, mkate mayai, madafu, muhogo wa nazi among other delicacies. My favourite part was sampling the kashata and korosho mramba. Kashata is an age-old Swahili candy made of desiccated coconut, sugar, water, and some saffron for color...pure magic! Korosho mramba is also a well known traditional sweet. The dessert composes of caramelized sugar and cashew nuts. Restaurant Manager Titus was such an amazing host. He made sure I’d settled in well, making the entire experience exceptional.

CHAI ICE CREAM & MANDAZI AT NYAMA MAMA I must admit that I went to Nyama Mama with some pocket-sized doubt on how tea and ice-cream would make a match. Boy oh boy, was I in for a delectable surprise! Head Chef Lesiamon Ole Sempele took my palate to school with their mandazi and chai ice cream dessert. Nyama Mama restaurant is celebrated for how it ingeniously transforms Kenyan classic meals into unique dishes with a tasty contemporary touch. This, you would think, is the simple good old chai and ndazi but according to Chef Sempele, here is where the intricacies lie.

“Apart from a generous chunk of love, it comprises of a warm cinnamon mandazi, with our homemade chai spiced ice cream and served with custard, a poached pear (which is slowly cooked in sweetened black tea, then chilled) and chocolate sauce,” Chef Sempele gladly states. There you go, and it tastes just as divine as it sounds. Nyama Mama is truly home for Kenyan home-style inspired African cuisine; the spirit of Africa stamped on its decor and the stimulating ambience will smash your senses.

SWAHILI PLATE KAIMATI AT SWAHILI PLATE Okay foodies, allow me to introduce to you one of my addictions, you can thank me later… kaimati from Swahili Plate. Kaimatis are sweet dumplings, traditionally from the Coastal part of Kenya. These can be enjoyed as a snack, a light bite before a meal, a sweet dessert with coffee or however your sweet tooth pleases. My favourite way to enjoy them is as an accompaniment with afternoon tea. Swahili Plate struck gold when they discovered the perfect balance of ingredients for their kaimatis. Just the right amount of cardamom, sugar, crunchiness, texture and all the other flavours that come in tow.

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Y UI GMHMTY L I F E N

CARNIVORE

CARNIVORE

K1 KLUB HOUSE

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et’s take a walk down memory lane.

We’re going to walk as far back as 1980 when Nairobi’s streets were a whole lot narrower, the country was young and big hair was in. Let’s wait for the sun to set on 1980s Nairobi and get excited as the night creeps in. These are the hours when a few spots would be open. Places where you could go and sweat out your Jheri curl and whip your afro back as you enjoyed the best of Nairobi nightlife.

Before the Mercury’s and Brew Bistros, there were certain spots where you could get a kilogram of nyama choma, wash it down with a Tusker baridi then dance the night away to your favourite tunes both local and international. Here are our two spots and a few honourable mentions that

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL OTIENO

managed to take us back in time.

CARNIVORE Before it expanded and became the place that hosted millennial events such as jazz festivals and concerts with Hip Hop artists, Carnivore was the place to eat, drink and make merry. As far back as the 80s, Carnivore has served up quality cuts, cooked to tender seasoned perfection. Outside of the beer they offer, Carnivore served up 4 simple cocktails. Our bartender of the day was Dennis Osiyo who has worked there for 15 years. As far back as he can remember, the Dawa and its counterparts have been served up to patrons. There was no room for doubt as he skilfully put together and presented the classic Kenyan cocktail. The dawa tray

CARNIVORE

N I G H YT U LMI M FE Y cocktail that paved the way for Nairobi’s growing cocktail scene.

This innovation is apparent in the other cocktails they created which include the vodka-based Crocodile in The Sky and the tequila-based Saints and Sinners.

Now let’s leave the 80s behind and move into the 90s where flat tops reigned, American music was taking over the airwaves and the nightlife scene was growing.

K1 KLUBHOUSE Across town, a family venture was about to change the game. K1’s story started simply, however in order to succeed they realised that they needed to play the game differently.

At the time, clubs would charge an entrance fee or would require the patron to be a member to enter. K1 waived the entrance fee, covered the place in quirky signs related to the ever-popular Tusker and waited.

The dance floor here was never empty afterwards. Many of those signs still hang around, lost in the new deco, watching over a new generation dance the night away to new millennial beats.

Sitting decisively in a corner of the K1 compound is Pitcher & Butch, a pub which is also a distinct part of Nairobi’s collective cultural story. It is the home of Jazz Nite Tuesdays. When the pub was constructed in 2000 it was the coolest watering hole in town for its modern vibe inspired by African aesthetic. Before Jazz Nite began, bars in Nairobi would close by 11 pm because nobody went out on Tuesday night. Safe to say that these days, Tuesday nights are lively at K1!

Both places have welcomed in different generations and if the walls could talk, I’m sure this article would be a lot longer.

HIT REWIND Staff writer, Lucy Munene, went back in time to find Nairobi’s hottest old school spots from the ’80s and ’90s.

always has necks stretching and hands waving as patrons eagerly await the potent and surprisingly refreshing drink.

I discovered the anecdote behind the making of this cocktail from one of The Bar Sage bartenders, Kevin Dunlop. “The story is that bartenders at Carnivore would complain of headaches and bad hangovers after drinking Caipirinhas so they substituted cachaca for vodka and added honey. They then began testing their new concoction on guests and it was a hit. One of the tests who was a big fan of the new drink happened to be the landlord of Carnivore and he ordered another calling it his ‘dawa’ which is the Swahili word of ‘medicine’. The name stuck and so did the cocktail.” He states that this took place 39 years ago which means this is probably the

HONOURABLE MENTIONS KILINDINI BAR I couldn’t talk about the nightlife of the past without mentioning the oldest bar in Kenya that sits unassumingly at the intersection of Mwakilingo and Machakos Streets in Kilindini, Mombasa. The establishment is almost as old as Mombasa itself. This simply decorated bar has seen historically significant writers and politicians as well as ordinary Kenyans as its patrons.

If you’re lucky you can sip a cold beer here before it is replaced by the construction of the Likoni Bridge.

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NOW POURING IN A TAP ROOM NEAR YOU

NOMAD

SINA SHAKA by Bateleur Brewery Open daily, 11-late New wing, food court, Village Market NOT FOR SALE TO PERSONS U NDER THE AGE OF 18 YEARS OLD PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

WINE CORNER

ASK A WINO How long do I have to let my wine breathe and when?

A TOAST TO TOASTING

Our in house oenologist, Josiah Kahiu, looks back at the history of wine and the age-old tradition of the Toast!

W

hether it’s opening up a bottle for an impromptu celebration, serving a glass while catching up with old friends or simply pouring yourself a generous splash while you get the dinner on, we all have our own rituals and traditions when it comes to enjoying a glass of wine. Perhaps the most universal is the toast - clinking our glasses together and ‘cheersing’ one another before we begin a meal or sit down to enjoy a drink and each other’s company.

Have you ever wondered why we toast by clinking our glasses together? Some have suggested that the sound was thought to drive out evil spirits and demons and therefore blessing the occasion, while others say that the motion of clinking glasses makes each drinker spill a little of his own wine into his neighbours glass - making it hard to poison somebody without poisoning yourself.

However, it is now thought that the simple ‘clink’ of the glasses is a way of bringing the fifth sense, sound, into a ritual which already includes the other four senses: sight, smell, touch and taste. Historically, toasting was seen as a duty especially in the first century BCE when the Roman Senate decreed that the health of Emperor Augustus be drunk at

every meal—though more often it evolved into a sort of a drinking game. The poet Martial, who wrote snarky verses in the first century BCE, described a Roman party practice in which each guest was compelled to drink as many glasses of wine as there were letters in his mistress’s name.

The term toast literally came from dropping a piece of spiced or charred bread into someone’s cup. This was either done to flavour the wine or to act as a form of h’ors d’oeuvre. The art of toasting also evolved over time to not only bringing glasses together but catching the toastees eye. No longer was it seen necessary to guzzle the entire cup of wine after every toast but a sip was considered sufficient. A mid-nineteenth century etiquette manual proposed that toasting should be carried out “quietly and unobtrusively.”

So when it comes to toasting, there will always be a moment to start a new tradition of your own with friends and family. Whether it is “maisha marefu” or Humphrey Bogart’s last toast to Ingrid Bergman in Casablanca— “Here’s looking at you, kid” - what matters is who and what you are toasting to. I leave you with these wise wine drinking words - May your beautiful lips never blister!

When it comes to letting wine breathe, simply removing the cork will not make much of a difference. Unless the wine is fully decanted, opening it and leaving it in the bottle for an hour will not affect the wine in the manner you want it to.

This is simply due to the fact that not enough of the wine in terms of surface area has come into contact with the air.

This is generally the reason that wines can stay “fresh” in their bottles for a couple of days before they go off.

So why and when do we let wine breathe? Decanting wine helps improve its character. As wine is a living, breathing organism, exposure to air after it is bottled may help it evolve even further. But remember, not all wines need the same amount of decanting, so always research the wine beforehand to know what steps to take. If you are dealing with an old vintage, there is always a risk of aerating it too much as it oxidises faster than younger wines.

For the older vintages, it is sometimes easier to just pour it into a decent red wine glass compared to a decanter.

Young vintages, on the other hand, can handle a more rigorous decanting process. Some of the younger wines can go through a process of double decanting, meaning they can be poured into a decanter then back into the bottle for more aeration. For the younger wines, letting the wine stand for at least an hour is always advisable.

It is also important to know what wines to decant. White wines, with their lack of tannins, generally do not need to be decanted. It is also important to note that not all red wines favour decanting.

More delicate and nuanced varieties such as Pinot Noir may not need to be decanted as it may spoil the structure of the wine, whereas big full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignons will benefit from decanting as it helps to smooth out the flavours.

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W I N E YPUI M CM KS Y

THE WORLD OF WINES

CASILLERO DEL DIABLO CHILE More than 135 years ago, Don Melchor de Concha y Toro stored his best wines in a cellar, behind a wrought iron locked gate.

After noticing wine being stolen from the cellar, Don Melchor de Concha y Toro spread a rumour that the devil lived there.

From that day on no other bottles disappeared. Decades later the story was captured by Casillero del Diablo, a Cabernet Sauvignon launched in the 60s with its first 1966 vintage.

The wine is an intense ruby red and hints of rich fruit like plums and cherries. The barrel ageing length lent to its toast and coffee notes

KEN FORRESTER THE FMC SOUTH AFRICA Ken Forrester wines are situated on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, in the heart of South Africa’s most famous wine region Stellenbosch. Ken Forrester vineyards are commonly referred to as the Home of Chenin Blanc and other premium awardwinning wines. This wine has been poured at numerous grand events including the opening of The Scottish Parliament, as well as the 85th birthday of President Mandela.

The pinnacle of what we consider to be the finest expression of the grapes of this varietal - an icon chenin, a challenge to the world!

Rich, layered with dried apricot, vanilla and honey.

Supplied by Viva Global and is available in all key supermarkets

Available from Under the Influencer for 6000Ksh

LELESHWA ROSE - KENYA ST. JOHN’S ROAD BAROSSA VALLEY, BLOOD AND COURAGE SHIRAZ 2016 - AUSTRALIA This classic Barossa Shiraz is a great illustration of teamwork by combining ripe, rich fruit from the vineyard with balanced oak integration and skilful winemaking. This Shiraz is opaque crimson red with redbrick hues and has lifted red fruit aromatics with a hint of sweet spice and cherry pastilles aromas. The palate is rich and densely flavoured with bright, expressive red fruit notes and wisps of toasted vanilla.

This salmon-coloured Rose is from the Great Rift Valley, is semi-sweet and has a fruity flavour that toasts the endless summer of the tropics. It enhances the pleasurable taste of chicken salad or poached fish.

Available at Carrefour, Shoprite, Chandarana (and other major retail outlets)

From Dion Wines, available from Greenspoon.com

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YUMMY WISHLIST

MODERN

Classics

We all grew up with certain things in the house that were staples. These days our childhood staples have been reinvented into different things that fit the new wave of curating your space according to a certain aesthetic. Here are our modern re-tellings of old favourites that you can easily buy!

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1. CALABASH LAMP SHADES

2. LESO PRINT UMBRELLAS

3. MELAMINE PLATES

4. SISAL LAUNDRY BASKETS

Wambui Designs has turned it into an eco-friendly decorative piece featuring delicate patterns carved into the shell, these lampshades will give you a way to add a piece of tradition in your house.

Find them at the Craft Centre in Gigiri.

Who says umbrellas can’t be fashionable?

You can now have your favourite leso print on an umbrella that you can stylishly whip out when the Kenyan weather decides it’s time for some rain.

Order one at www.ngirigiri.com.

Melamine plates are here to give your walls a fresh feel.

Use different sizes for contrast, mix and match patterns according to your taste then sit back and watch your guests marvel at your creativity.

Buy yours from @ KuziTrading Company

Erika’s locally woven baskets are sturdy enough to hold all your laundry and look great in the corner of your room.

Find a pattern and colour combination that you love on their Instagram page erikasantiques then make your order.

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5. MJINE CANDLES Mjine Scented Candles cleverly took the beloved tin cup that burned your hands when the tea in it was too hot and turned it into something just as functional: a candle holder. Their candles are ecofriendly, affordable and smell great!

Call 0741745141 to order a candle from Kshs. 590.

6. EMBROIDERY RING CLOCK Sewing and crotchet enthusiasts will love this item!

Zaiba Creations have cleverly turned this embroidery ring into a clock that will look great on any wall.

Buy yours from Zaiba Creations on Instagram @ Kshs.

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YUMMY

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EAST FM

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