y
yummy
FOOD DRINK LIFE
V1.1 NOV 2014
PREMIERE ISSUE
COFFEE CULTURE CHEF MORTEN COOKS
susan wong eatS
jackson biko drinks
Award-winning chef visits our faire city to put his stamp on SOI
Nairobi’s queen of foodies ponders the stickiness of new restaurant Caramel
Our Man on the Town reveals his sinful side at Best Western’s Level 8 Bar
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EDITORIAL
Hi, Are you ready to get Yummy? We’re excited for you to embark on this journey with us and to celebrate the more important things: food, drink and life. Karibuni!
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aving grown up in Nairobi and spent the better part of the last seven years abroad, I am continually amazed at how much this city has boomed over time. The plethora of cuisines and events available to any interested city-dweller— combined with Kenya’s unique resources and heritage—hint towards a foodie culture future that could rival that of any city worldwide. This magazine is a celebration of this growth, and more broadly, of life’s necessities: food and drink – in all their glory. For our first issue we spill the beans on everything coffee. If you, like us, love your dark stuff, pour over our Guide to Coffee and find out all our city has to offer when it comes to kahawa. First though, make sure you dip your toes into the important Nairobi foodie news of the month and get a chance to mark any upcoming events into your personal calendar. Delve into Nairobi’s top foodie and Capital FM Lifestyle Editor Susan Wong’s review of Nairobi’s newest
restaurant, Caramel. Is this a joint that’s going to stick around? And who is Morten Boejstrup Nielsen and what is he bringing to Nairobi’s hottest Thai restaurant dusitD2 Soi? Browse Health guru Amy Selbach’s column, in which she demystifies the world of super foods. Peruse Blogger Jackson Biko’s booze-infused account of an evening at Level 8 Bar & Lounge, skim Anies Peillet’s unorthodox wine-ranking system as she dares to experiment with a few bottles on a Ladies Who Lunch date and delight your senses as you read about Charity Keita’s, Life as a Foodie. Whether you are a coffee aficionado, a grab and go kinda guy or gal, a food lover and/or wine connoisseur, an improvisor, or just someone who needs a (coffee) break, we truly hope that you enjoy the ride. We sure are looking forward to taking you on many more culinary adventures! Indulge!
Hiyabel Tewoldemedhin General Manager EatOut Africa
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CONTENT 8 NEwS aNd EVENTS
Yummy takes you through a month of food and drinks on the town
10 NEw RESTaURaNTS Get the scoop on all the latest openings and foodie happenings
14 CHEF iNTERViEw Morten Nielsen is the latest rockstar chef to visit Nairobi. Check out what he’s been up to at dusitD2
12 REViEw: CaRaMEL Susan Wong gives you the low down on Nairobi’s latest addition to the local gastronomic scene
16 FOOdiE REViEwS Yummy contributors give you the latest dish on area restaurants
30 MiXOLOgY Impress your friends with our coffee cocktail recipes
32 wiNE
Anies Peillet is our local wine chick who serves up good advice
36 HEaLTH We feature six superfoods that will change your life
40 dESSERT We honor the macaron, not to be confused with macaroon
42 MaN ON THE TOwN Jackson Biko tears a page from Charles Bukowski and lets it rip on Level 8
18 COVER SECTiON: COFFEE CLaSS
44 MY LiFE aS a FOOdiE Charity Keita likes it raw and uncovered, the type of foodie to whom we can all relate
We take you through the A-Z of coffee including a brief history of Kenya coffee
YUMMY No. 01 · November 2014 · Published by EatOut and UP Magazine, all rights reserved. FOR EATOUT: MaNagiNg diRECTOR Mikul Shah gM Hiyabel Tewoldemedhin YUMMY TEaM Hinal Shah, Jean Wandimi, Kelvin Jayanoris, Liz Maelane, Mary Mahinda, Wahid Osman, Yoga David SaLES & OPERaTiONS Daniel Muthaini, Devna Vadgama, Yvonne Malebe FOR UP MAGAZINE: CREaTiVE diRECTOR Rand Pearson COMMERCiaL diRECTOR Sapna Chandaria MaNagiNg EdiTOR Katy Fentress PROjECT EdiTOR Anies Peillet gRaPHiC dESigN Rachel Mwangi CONTRibUTORS Susan Wong, Jackson Biko, Charity Keita, Amy Selbach SaLES iNqUiRiES Call Yummy, 0711 22 22 22 PUbLiSHiNg iNqUiRiES Call UP Magazine, 0733 42 27 26
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every plate, every pinch of seasoning, every breath, every morsel, every moment has all our every thought and hard work that’s what our promise is for your experience
live . love . eat
TASTE AWARD FOR HEINEKEN® CHEF OF THE YEAR 320 NGONG ROAD, NAIROBI FOR RESERVATIONS CALL +254 705 999 997
reservations@thetalismanrestaurant.com thetalismanrestaurant.com
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wiN a TRiP TO CadbURY wORLd UK A special treat for chocolate lovers
bEER bUS CRawL Oktoberfest Grande Finale The Grande Finale Oktoberfest party at Brew Bistro & Lounge will be memorable, with a Bus Crawl starting at 5pm from Brew Bistro & Lounge to select participating outlets. The Brew Bus will be specially fitted with a mobile bar and DJ. So hop on and hop off the bus at different stops throughout the night! The price is Ksh 2500 (including all draft beers and water on the bus.)
Ever imagined what it would be like to step into Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory? Our friends at Cadbury are giving away a chance to win a trip to the amazing Cadbury World in the UK. Simply buy a Cadbury Dairy Milk or Cadbury Dream chocolate bar, fill in the coupon on the back of the package and return in the raffle bins of the participating establishments for a chance to win a trip for two to the home of Cadbury chocolate. Other exciting prizes up for grabs, include Naivasha holidays, flat screen TVs, surround sound systems and fantastic Cadbury chocolate hampers. From October 20 until December 31.
2 CHaiNZ Set to rock Nairobi After the success of DJ Drama last year, Jameson Live is back in a big way this year with US hip hop artist “2 Chainz”. 2 Chainz rose to fame with his hit single “Duffle Bag Boy” featuring Lil Wayne. He has also worked alongside leading acts such as Kanye West, Nicki Minaj, Ludacris and Birdman. The hip hop star will be performing live at the Ngong Racecourse Nairobi on the 1st of November 2014. The Jameson Live line-up will also include Code Red’s DJ Stylez. Tickets are available to strictly over 18s only and are priced from Ksh 1,500.
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NEWS AND EVENTS
ON THE ROCKS Love Whisky Festival Last year’s November Love Whisky Festival was a unique celebration of the world of whisky aiming at changing the outlook of whisky drinkers in Kenya. Featuring Johnnie Walker Black Label, Johnnie Walker Platinum Label
and Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve, the festival is Kenya’s largest, liveliest and most exciting whisky tasting and lifestyle show of its kind. This year’s festival will take place at different venues in and around Nairobi.
RHYTHM OF THE NigHT A night of Salsa music, wine and dancing
iT’S a daTE Weekend date nights at Serena’s Mandhari Friday and Saturday night is date night at Mandhari where you can serenade your love either on the terrace as night falls for a three-course dinner under the stars, or by candlelight indoors. Enjoy a memorable dining experience set in the backdrop of “all you want it to be.” Dinner costs Ksh 5000 per couple.
See yourself as “Baby” or Johnny performing that unforgettable sequence (with the lift) from Dirty Dancing? If the answer is yes, then you definitely have a mild case of what we’d call, salsa fever. Admittedly, the soulful and sassy rhythms of salsa music make it hard to stand still so why fight it? Enjoy live salsa and dance the night away at Artcaffe at The Oval
every Friday from 9pm till midnight. Not only will the music sate your palate, but so will Artcaffe’s delicious array of starters and mains. Think beef carpaccio, antipasto salad and roast chicken...too tasty for words. It’s the perfect way to ease into a much-needed weekend with your friends while sampling the amazing wine and cocktail list.
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NEW RESTAuRANTS
KONiCHiwa LaViNgTON Tokyo Restaurant relocates from Karen Located on Kolloh Road in Lavintgon, the new Tokyo Restaurant offers a new simplified menu featuring great tasting meals at great prices and the inevitable presence of sushi platters with vegetarian options. Also on offer,
are Japanese culinary delicacies like Toro and Akami. A wonderful selection of cocktails is available at the bar, as well as Sake, Soju and more undeniably authentic Japanese treats: Ginseng Wine and Haresake.
big CaTCH Ocean Basket opening in Westlands The Oval in Westlands will soon get a new vibe. With its exciting menu of top quality seafood at remarkably low prices, Ocean Basket is sure to become a favorite spot for business lunches, after-workdrinks and family gatherings.
FRESHLY gROUNd Stunning new Dormans opens at Village Market The stunning new Dormans is open for business! Hidden away on the first floor of the new wing, the high ceilings and retro-styled lounge area create the perfect backdrop for enjoying a freshly-brewed cup of coffee whilst getting sucked into your favourite book or magazine. Check out the virtual QR code link on page 27 for a 360 degree tour on your phone.
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Originally from South Africa, The Ocean Basket Franchise Group counts more than 160 restaurants worldwide. The Nairobi opening will feature it’s full menu of seafood and sushi, specializing in oysters and champagne on its alfresceo balcony.
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SUSaN EaTS Caramel, ABC Towers Can the newly launched ’Caramel’ act like the real caramel and stick around? 12.
Caramel is still the newest restaurant and lounge in Nairobi, Kenya. That is all. Thank you for your time. On second thought, there may be a little bit more to say. Great restaurants can fade fast, especially in Nairobi where consistency of service, quality of ingredients and execution seem to rarely harmonize. But as long as you’re new, the hype will surely fill your reservation book for many weeks to come, and the restaurant will continue to be the talk of the town. In Nairobi’s flourishing gastronomic scene though you can not afford to execute a concept halfheartedly. Nairobians are a melting pot of tastemakers, outspoken consumers and refined palates.
RESTAuRANT REVIEW TEXT SuSAN WONG PHOTO COuRTESY
LEFT Caramel’s stunning ‘outdoor’ lounge
BELOW Vegetable Risotto
Nairobians are a melting pot of tastemakers... pleasing them is tough
Pleasing them is tough. They know they deserve the best and expect the city’s culinary offerings to be in par with other cosmopolitan waterholes such as New York City, London, Paris, Hong Kong, Toronto and Johannesburg. Offer anything less than great and they won’t stick around for very long. What Nairobians want from restaurants is changing, though, along with our notions of luxury. And dare I say it, Caramel Restaurant & Lounge, excluding hotels, may finally be the first to step up to this challenge and deliver. Caramel Restaurant & Lounge isn’t gilded, but it definitely is quite polished. From the customfitted ceilings to the space heaters that can even warm Toronto’s
winter patio season to the backlit Onyx table and sultry ambient lighting, Caramel oozes intimacy, as I learned over five excellent experiences since it opened in early September. Some of the dishes on the menu were so delicious they seemed destined to never leave the menu. One was the refreshing and light Lobster & Grilled Mango Tacos with Avocado Cream and Cilantro. Another was a fun stack of deepfried Mac & Cheese bars with aromatic Truffle Oil and a Three Cheese Dipping Sauce – delicate in texture but robust in flavour. There was the Chinese-inspired Chicken Lettuce Bites with Shiitake Mushrooms and Hoisin Sauce, which tasted of a delicious subtle
dust of homemade five spice and was a delight to assemble with the carefully trimmed green leaves of iceberg lettuce. The Lamb Sliders with Harissa and Crisp Cucumber are a hot item, so much so that you may just be told they’ve sold out. Finally, of course there’s also my personal favourite: Veggie Risotto with Baby Spinach, Asparagus Tips and Portobello Mushrooms; which left my Italian companion, who refuses to eat risotto in restaurants because they’re never good enough, speechless and nodding approvingly. The strictly 25 and over establishment also has service to match. Exceptionally welcoming hostesses ensure guests feel at home. Your needs are anticipated
and always met with attentive, but not suffocating awareness - quick and thorough. Fitted black satin cocktail dresses seem to be the chosen uniform - almost classy if it weren’t for the protruding frills of your waitress’s bra staring back at you when she leans down to take your drink order. There are high spirits almost every weekend in Caramel’s dining room and lounge, too, which hums with well-dressed guests and at times roars with Nairobians having a wonderful night on the town. So is Caramel destined to be one of Nairobi’s great restaurants and lounges? Only a few weeks young, it’s safe to say that only time will tell.
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THE DISH Contemporary twist on authentic Thai street food
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ChEF pROFILE TEXT YuMMY STAFF PHOTO DuSIT D2
We’ve tried it, and we cried it was so good
THE gREaT
daNE M orten Boejstrup Nielsen is about as rock and roll as they come. He’s an award wininng Danish chef that began earning his marks with notable Chef David Thompson at the famous London eatery, Nahm. There he cut his teeth on molecular and deconstructive styles of cooking as well as mastering the Asian cuisines. He is currently based at the flagship Benjarong at the Dusit Thani Bangkok. There, his kitchen doubles as the training ground for developing future Dusit Thai
culinary talents for all hotels globally. But the best news for local foodies was that he just came through on a tour of Nairobi and the new 14 Riverside Hotel, the
Dusit D2 Nairobi recently hosted Chef Morten Nielson, formerly of Nahm, the first Thai Restaurant in London to be awarded a Michelin Star, and who’s sister restaurant in Bangkok currently holds the status as the best restaurant in Asia. dusitD2. You can taste the benefits of his knowledge and experience at its two new restaurants Soi and Soko. Check out some of his signatures Thai dishes at Soi, including his
slow-cooked beef ribs in green curry. We’ve tried it, and we cried it was so good. Also recommended are the Tom Kha soups, Tiger Prawns and a chicken on the bone Penang Curry. Can you say Yummy?
RigHT Chef Morten Group Executive Chef Dusit International
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YOuR REVIEWS
Write for a Bite! Have you been to a great restaurant lately that you are dying to rave about? Sign up for an EatOut account online and get writing. Each month we will feature our favourite reviews and you could win yourself a delicious meal for two at a restaurant of your choice plus a bottle of wine. Don’t forget our awesome Yummy Tuesdays promotion, where couples or pairs can get 50% off the food bill at participating outlets. All you need to do is call our reservations team on 0711 222 222 or book online at eatout.co.ke/yummytuesdays.
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bREw biSTRO & LOUNgE
TaMaMbO, ViLLagE MaRKET
Darshani Haria
Nabil Janmohamed
“I loved the value because we got 50% off for Yummy Tuesdays! But it would have been worth it eitherway. We started with the Smoked Sailfish Crudo. The Sailfish was fine dining perfection! Main course was Tournedos Oscar. The Tournedos were amazing - the lobster absolute heaven! And the Béarnaise sauce had just the right amount of acidity to complement the lobster! Dessert was the New York Style Cheesecake which was a little stodgy for my liking but not bad. Definitely would go there again!”
“Since Tamambo is a branch of Tamarind, we all know to expect nothing but the best. The lobster Swahili dish was cooked to perfection and the coconut curry sauce was zesty and pungent. They nailed the Dawa. It was as if Zeus sent Poseidon to earth with this recipe. They have the best and most affordable hookah I’ve smoked in Nairobi. The staff were kind and polite and the ambience was magical, with the live band playing smooth jazz. This is a place that one must visit.”
aSMaRa RESTaURaNT
THE PHOENiCiaN, jUNCTiON
Sammy Gee
Lee Sayer
“I was honestly impressed with how far Asmara restaurant had come from the initial start of Asmara the simple local joint in Eastleigh to the elegant and beautiful Asmara in Westlands. I love the food, the interior design and decor of the house as well as the variety in food (they do not only offer Eritrean food). Michael the proprietor takes rounds greeting his guests and welcomes inputs and ideas. If only the washrooms were closer by.”
“This is a good choice for anyone wanting a variety of styles and dishes. The sushi and sashimi have never disappointed and although the edamame portions are small, there are few restaurants in Kenya that serve this Japanese snack. For anyone wanting a taste of Japanese cuisine and realise that this does not come cheap and nasty, then try Phoenician for a delightful meal.”
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COVER TEXT YuMMY STAFF
COFFEE CULTURE
Sure, you’ve probably heard that Kenya Arabica varietals are the best in the world, but why? Kenya coffee has a deep and rich history. Introduced by Scottish and French missions separately in the late 1800s their ‘special’ strains of Arabica came by way of Ethiopia and Yemen and were later grafted together by enterprising settlers. Over sixty years of independence, the government has perfected its coffee into two main varieties, SL 28 and SL 34. But what makes Kenya Coffee truly special is where and how it is grown. Outside of Nyeri is the coffee growing hub of Kenya. There, the high altitude sun and soil and twice a year rain fall, produce bountiful and tasty coffee crops. Because of our cooperative system of raising and producing coffee, this typically translates into a hands-on ‘boutique’ style of production, where the difference can be likened to handmade bread vs. factory-made. Kenya Coffee belongs to an elite class of Arabica called Colombian Milds only found here, Tanzania and Colombia. This class of
Arabica is treasured for its taste and aroma. Begin your whirlwind tour with a glimpse into Dormans’ Barista Goeffrey Kaize’s love affair with coffee and an overview of some of Nairobi’s hottest coffee spots. In case you don’t know your cappuccino from your mochachino, we put together a Coffee Drinking for Dummies menu. Finally, find out more about the journey of the coffee bean in our feature From Bean to Coffee.
What makes Kenya coffee truly special is where it is grown and cultivated 19.
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INTERVIEW TEXT ANIES pEILLET PHOTO ANIES pEILLET
KaHawa KiNg “
As a boy growing up in Kakamega in Western Kenya, I used to love the smell of coffee in the morning. The way my mother made the coffee back home was simple: she would set the pot full of water on the stove, wait for the water to boil and throw in a couple tablespoons of roughly ground local coffee. She would then pour the brew into a cup, add some milk and call it coffee! When I first walked into Dormans as a barista, I instantly knew that there was more than physical distance between the brew my mom called coffee and the aromafilled drinks that were churned out from the Dormans’ shiny coffee machines. So yeah, I guess you could say I came to the barista profession by accident. “What the hell does barista mean?” I asked myself when I was learning the ropes. “And more importantly what does a barista actually do?” Well it’s quite straightforward: a barista is the person who is trained in the art of preparing coffee drinks and espressos, as well as foams, froths and steams for the milk. On any given day, I can be asked to prepare an espresso, a cappuccino, an americano, a latte, a mocha, a mochachino, a caramel, orange or vanilla latte, a variety of iced coffees and of course our signature drink, the Nut Case! The Nut Case is one shot of espresso with a pinch of cinnamon and a tad of hazelnut topped with froth milk. A good barista knows his or her
product, essentially the beans. Like a sommelier is familiar with the entire wine making process and consumption, a barista is familiar with the entire coffee-making process. As a barista, you have got to understand coffee flavours, blends and roasting levels and to memorise a bunch of recipes. At Dormans we only use the best Kenyan coffee beans. A competent barista knows his equipment. The machines I use are an extension of my hands—they are finicky beasts and require constant fine-tuning and attention to fire my perfect, signature shots. From the grinder used to grind the beans just right, to the tamper used to compress the ground coffee, to the Lamarzocco commercial coffee machine which I used to make everything from espresso to cappuccinos, they all have to be
properly calibrated. Take grinding for example: too coarse and the finished product will taste watery and be flavourless. Too fine and the coffee will taste burnt and bitter. And what about frothing? Wellfrothed milk is a challenge. Too much froth and it will mix in with the coffee. Not enough and it will lack airiness, which sweetens the taste of milk like a cloud suspended in midair. And let’s not forget to mention a milk moustache! That’s what I aim for, perfection! Whatever our patrons are seeking, from a robust, spicy cup of coffee for colder days, to a lighter, sweet one, individualised attention is also part of the job description. The majority of the people who come in for coffee want “just a coffee” or a cappuccino with no froth. I understand, that’s cool. But as the coffee culture worldwide is devel-
A competent barista knows his equiptment
oping, so some Dormans patrons are also becoming more educated and knowledgeable about coffee and are refining their taste. From time to time a patron will walk-in with a specific demand. Basically its a flavoured coffee that can range from a shot of espresso to an orange mocha or a caramel latte. I am happy to oblige and to learn something new in the process! What keeps me going? When I am done preparing a cup, the aroma, that whiff of freshly brewed coffee that fills the air, is nothing like the ones that used to fill my house back home. I feel like I have come a long way. And the look on a patron’s face after taking a sip of a cup I prepared for them is priceless!”
RigHT GeOffrey KAIze COffee experT
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CAFE GuIDE
ESPRESSO YOURSELF
The coffee culture in Nairobi has evolved. Today, modern forward thinking cafes are at the center of the city’s expanding economy and a cross roads of creativity and expression. Find this and more at these locally born and bred cafes.
ALABASTER LOUNGE Crowne Plaza
THE GALLERY Sankara
TAMAMBO, KAREN BLIXEN 336 Karen Road, Karen
Crowne Plaza in Upper Hill shields the beautiful Alabaster Lounge offering a delectable selection of light sandwiches and pastries as well as a variety of beverages.
A visual and tasty experience, The Gallery is a fusion of a stylish delicatessen and bar featuring premium food, wine and of course coffees! The eye-catching patisserie displays and wine walls are as delightful to the eye as the food is to the palate.
Situated in the midst of one of the largest and oldest formal gardens in Kenya, dining can be enjoyed in the indoor restaurant with adjacent outdoor terrace and garden; Grand Marquee Sultan style tent; or the Grogan House which is available for private dinners and exclusive functions.
ARTCAFFE Karen Crossroads Famous for its roasted coffees, savory pastries and delightful desserts, the Artcaffe Café & Bakery is an open-street style space with a unique French café ambiance. Visit other branches at Village Market, The Oval, Galleria, Junction Mall and Thika Road Mall.
CAFÉ VILLA ROSA Kempinski A one of its kind cafe, Café Villa is the epitome of class and subtle glamour. An impressive breakfast buffet as well as an internationally-inspired cuisines are on offer and can be enjoyed for lunch and dinner to be followed by café and a cognac.
DORMANS Junction Mall Putting an urban twist to Nairobi’s vivacious energy while paying homage to its classic roots, Dormans is famous for its superior homegrown Kenyan coffee. A lively space for work and pleasure, Dormans also offers a wide and delicious a selection of salads, sandwiches, pastries, cakes and cookies.
FOUR CAFE BISTRO Warwick Centre, Gigiri Four Cafe Bistro radiates class with its fresh modern décor, lovely range of coffees and cocktails and impressive wine selection. Sample their continental fusion menu of pizzas, pastas, mouth-watering chocolate tiramisu, strawberry shortcake martini and much more.
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JAVA Limuru Road, Gigiri Gourmet coffee and coffee culture collide at Java! The perfect spot to enjoy a simmering cup of coffee and a scrumptious meal in a jazzy and comfortable atmosphere.
MAMA’S FINE FRENCH PATISSERIE ABC Place Shaped by self-taught chef and foodie Shazia, Mama’s is a slice of Paris in Nairobi. Drawing inspiration from classic French cuisine; from the petite patisseries on Rue de Seine, Mama’s offers freshly baked viennoiseries including brioches and freshly brewed signature coffees.
MONIKOS KITCHEN Valley Arcade, Lavington If you’re looking for a casual and intimate setting, Monikos Kitchen is the perfect bistro serving dishes with an innovative wine list and a full bar. On the menu are baguette sandwiches, pasta dishes, pastries and desserts and specialty Kenyan Coffee Brand -Ransley’s Coffee.
MUKUTAN GARDEN CAFE Fairview For top-notch coffees, gourmet sandwiches, pizzas, Quesadillas and Nairobi’s best Sushi, look no further than The Mukutan Garden Café. Specialising in light/quick meals the Café also offers delicious cocktails perfect after a long day at work.
TIN ROOF CAFÉ The Souk, Karen Offering delicious home-made delicacies Tin Roof Café offers hotpots and soups for those damp winter days as well as healthy, delicious salads for the hot sunny times of the year. Not to mention their exclusively Kenyan grown Arabica coffee which is roasted and ground daily on site.
TIRAMISU BAKERY Village Market Food Court Tantalize your taste buds with daily baked fine tarts and desserts, pastries and bread with an Italian flair. Complimented by freshly brewed Kenyan coffee or some yummy hot chocolate with whipped cream Tiramisu offers something sweet and special for everyone.
VIDA E CAFFE James Gichuru Road, Lavington Inspired by the sidewalk cafes of European cities, Vida e Caffè - life and coffee — encompasses and enhances the espresso and coffee drinking culture. It’s a place to meet up, enjoy the menu whilst savoring the highest quality coffee and pastries.
TEXT ANIES pEILLET PHOTO ONDI MADETE
happiness is a cup of coffee and a good book
FOR MORE CaFES ViSiT EaTOUT.CO.KE/CaFES
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MENu
You’re at your local coffee shop on a first date, the waiter arrives and asks what you would like. You scan the menu: a Latte? Americano? You are desperate to show yourself as a sophisticated cat but don’t have a clue what any of it means! Fear not, Yummy Magazine has compiled a list.
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ADVERTORIAL
qR COdE Scan the code for a 360 degree virtual tour of the new Dormans at Village Market
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dECadES OF COFFEE
For over half a century Dormans has been producing and brewing some of the highest quality coffee that Kenya has to offer.
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Since the early 1950s, pioneering traders such as Charles Dorman have roasted and packaged top-quality Kenyan coffee for Kenyans and have been at the forefront of developing a local market.” It is evident that an intense amount of care and attention goes into the process of serving the perfect Dormans cup: from the unpicked cherry in the kahawa fields of Nyeri, right up to battling it out for premium quality beans
at the weekly coffee auctions. Although Kenya has been producing coffee for over a century, the drink of choice for most Kenyans is tea. This is partly due to the fact that, historically, the majority of the coffee harvested in the country was done so for export, and not for local consumption. Since opening the doors of their first Dormans café, the expert coffee makers have always strived to uphold a high standard in developing the country’s coffee-drinking culture. Keeping to that, over time
they have reached many exciting milestones. The popular chain of coffee shops are now in the exciting process of rebranding and renovating to a new urban chic look. They are even opening some new ones! The bright, airy space at the new Dormans in Village Market is colorfully modern and inviting – an apt symbol of Dormans’ evolution. Grab a frosty glass of their unique iced coffee with flavors the likes of nut and nougat. For those in the mood for a savory bite, try the
“Dormans Surprise”: freshly baked bread stuffed with delicious fillings like mixed veggies and curry. Or, if you’re sipping on a cup of legendary Dormans coffee, sink your teeth into one of their steamy Belgian waffles doused with chocolate or covered in crispy bacon and cheese. Dormans even offers a beautiful range of specialty teas! But if a hot cup of Jasmine Rain, Berry Kiss or Kenyan Earth doesn’t soothe you, then bring it all back to the basics: milk, sugar and one dark, smoky brew. Happy Drinking!
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FEATuRE TEXT KATY FENTRESS & LIZ MAELANE PHOTO FILE
bEaN TO CUP The story of any cup of coffee begins in the soil. BLACK GOLD HARVEST Coffee is harvested two times per year. Harvesting takes place when the berries turn a deep red. In Kenya, harvesting is still done by hand. We are sitting in the living room at the farmhouse at the Kaigwa Coffee Estate in Mukurweini, Nyeri County, with Uche Kaigwa-Okoye. We are here to talk about the journey of Kenya’s “Black Gold”, from the plantations upcountry to your strong morning cup of brew. Kaigwa-Okoye, who has been running his family’s coffee estate for the past two years, is busy sifting through a pile of black kidney beans. He tells us that he intends to plant the beans underneath the coffee bushes because they add nitrogen back into the soil which conditions it and prevents the sun from scorching the ground. From cherry to cup, Kenya’s coffee travels a unique journey. This journey, and the production process along the way, is what creates the perfect AA Arabica that
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makes Kenya’s beans some of the most sought after in the world. “My family has been planting Arabica for four generations,” Kaigwa-Okoye tells us. “As I’m sure you know, Arabica is the finest quality of coffee you can get. It’s the high-grade stuff: when you close your eyes and think of coffee, that’s the smell you should be imagining”. According to Kaigwa-Okoye, the reason that Kenyan coffee is so highly prized, is because the whole region around Mount Kenya has volcanic soil and is incredibly fertile. The altitude combined with the year-round twelve hours of equatorial sunlight, makes the area perfect for coffee cultivation. “It’s an alpine climate in a tropical region on the equator,” he explains. “Who could ask for more?”
“Of course our berries are hand-picked,” says Kaigwa-Okoye. “The Nyeri area in particular is so mountainous, there are no machines that could actually do the job. And anyway,” he adds, “when you pick beans by hand you only pick the ripe ones. From a cluster of twenty beans you might only get ten but those ten are ready and you can always come back for the rest after a couple of days”.
On the Kaigwa Estate, coffee is processed at the wet “pulping station” where beans are separated from the pulp, sorted based on ripeness and size and then moved into a fermentation tank where they are rinsed and dried. The berries must be left to dry for a month or more before they can be sent to the mill. Milling is done by machine and includes hulling the coffee bean that is hidden inside the husk. After that comes the polishing and then
THE COFFEE BELT Kenya is in the Bean Belt which runs from Costa Rica, to Ethiopia and Java. Fine Arabica Beans grow between 3,600 and 6,300 feet
MISSION COFFEE Kenya seedling varieties SL28, SL34 were brought to Kenya by French and Scottish missions in the late 1800s
COOPERATIVE COFFEE Sixty percent of Kenya Coffee is produce by small holders and cooperatives
grading and sorting. At this point the green coffee beans are ready for sale and then roasting. The first Kenya Coffee Auction took place in 1938 and has since been a time-honoured, weekly tradition. “I love going to the auction house” smiles KaigwaOkoye. “Everything reeks of old money there. They have these pictures on the walls that have been there since the fifties and each chair is equipped with an ashtray and a button that emits a
sound when pressed”. After the purchased beans are collected from a storage warehouse, they are brought to the coffee brand’s factory to be roasted. Some will be roasted to a medium roast and some to a dark roast depending on their blend. Thereafter the beans can be packed as is, or they are moved up to a grinder, which will produce either a fine grind or a medium grind, depending on the way the coffee will be brewed.
“When I drink coffee I like to have a light medium roast which I finely grind at home and then filter” Kaigwa-Okoye tells us. “Generally I will let it sit for a while and drink it black with no sugar, as I need to taste it and see if it fermented properly. However,” he concludes, “I do like a sweet cappuccino once in a while. The Italians really do know how to make a good coffee!”
AUCTION SAMPLING Bigger coffee brands such as Dormans are given samples to try before the auction takes place. They taste between 1000 and 4000 coffee samples
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MIXOLOGY
COFFEE wiTH a KiCK
Give your cup an extra kick with one of these coffee drink recipes!
MUDSLIDE
IRISH COFFEE
ESPRESSO MARTINI
B52 or BIFI
30 ml vodka 30 ml Kahlua 30 ml Baileys Irish Cream 30 ml milk or cream
2/3 cup strong coffee 2 tablespoons Irish whiskey 1 teaspoon brown sugar whipped cream
45 ml of coffee liqueur 30 ml vodka 30 ml freshly brewed espresso
30ml KahlĂşa 30ml Baileys Irish Cream 30ml Grand Marnier
Directions This is both a drink and a dessert. Add all the ingredients with ice to a blender and blend until smooth. Pour the Mudslide into a Martini or hurricane glass. If desired, drizzle with chocolate syrup.
Directions This hot, creamy, classic Irish Coffee will warm you to the bone. Mix the coffee, whiskey and sugar and pour in to cup or glass. Top with whipped cream.
Directions What do you get when you mix vodka and espresso? One hell of a cocktail. Add all the ingredients to a shaker and fill with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled Martini glass.
Directions The B52 cocktail is a layered shot composed of a coffee liqueur, an Irish cream, and a triple sec. When prepared properly, the ingredients separate into three distinctly visible layers.
For more cocktail recipes visit yummy.co.ke/cocktails 30.
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VAN LOVEREN MERLOT
A lightly oaked red, this wine has soft strawberry notes and a rich fruity palate. It pairs well with meat, especially red and smoked as well as cheese.
FIVES RESERVE CHENIN BLANC
This fruity unwooded wine offers a rich, fruit-filled crisp palate and lingering finish. It is a great summer wine which can be enjoyed with salads, cold meat, creamy pasta dishes, chicken, veal and shellfish.
wiNE PiCKS
Grab any of these bottles & email us to tell us what you think wine@yummy.co.ke 32.
WINE TEXT ANIES pEILLET
CASILLERO DEL DIABLO MALBEC
The premium Chilean wine Casillero del Diablo comes from the Rapel Valley in Chile from the Concha Y Toro vineyards. The colour is Violet, intense and deep red. Delicious aromas of black fruit such as plums and cherries, followed by pepper and subtle touches of coffee beans and black chocolate. All very well balanced wine with hints of fresh coffee aromas throughout the palate.
THE GRINDER COFFEE PINOTAGE
The Grinder Coffee Pinotage, a wine that boasts mocha and coffee notes, recently won the prize for the “Best Label Design for Coffee Pinotages”. This 2012 vintage is laced with complex meaty, black cherry, raspberry and slightly candied aromas on a lush and full palate. Prepare to have your expectations exceeded.
We don’t bother with wine trends; I’ve never read a wine review in my life
THE wiNE CHiCK On a recent girls’ night out, my friends and I were chatting over a bottle of wine, musing over how we usually pick our vino. None of us are wine experts or wine snobs. We are what you could call wine amateurs and egalitarians. Our selection process is fairly straightforward. The final cut is based on price, mood and finally, looks! We tend to prefer wine with pretty labels, the ones that tell a story or that come recommended by a friend. We don’t pick our wine to impress anyone but ourselves. We share our wine and create memories around it. In wine there is laughing, crying and in between a whole lot of bitching about our boyfriend or husband. Where color is concerned we don’t discriminate. We run the gamut from masculine, yang reds to sweet, more yin, whites. Concerning whites, we have one caveat—ABC (Anything But Chardonnay). Rose is pretty much a no-no. After all I am French and have certain standards to uphold! We don’t bother with wine trends, I have never read a wine review in my life. Whatever Paul Giamatti’s character was ranting about in the movie “Sideways,” something about Merlot tasting “like the back of a …L.A. school bus,” I equate with snobbish jittering. And where pairing is concerned we are very experimental. In our world Champagne and crisps are a match made in heaven. So is Merlot and hotdogs. When it comes to picking wine, in our group of four, eclectic, highly-opinionated women and one guy (ranging from a stayat-home mother to pharmaceutical company executives and an advertising rep) anything goes. If we like it, then it’s a good wine! Period. Based on our very unorthodox picking system we recently enjoyed the Casillero Del Diablo Malbec and The Grinder Coffee Pinotage. Although our wine picking strategy might sound like a guide to picking a onenight stand (mood, appetite and looks) we would advise against that application. Living with the consequences of drinking one glass too many is one thing, but you never know with a one night stand… Then again, you could always have a glass of wine to get over it.
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hEALTh TEXT
AMY SELBACH
SUPERFOOd YOURSELF Globalization has had a profound impact on health. Super foods and natural remedies are becoming accessible worldwide. Take acai, for example. This antioxidant and fiberpacked berry from the Amazon is now a household name. Other equally impressive super food you may not have heard of yet are also climbing the ladder to superfood stardom. here are a few selected ones that can help improve your health.
SOUTH aMERiCa: MaCa ROOT Found in the Peruvian Andes, the Maca root was allegedly consumed by Incan warriors for it sex-and fertility-enhancing properties. Today, the powder form is used in smoothies, yogurt or to top salads. It is sometimes sold as a raw flour. Heralded as improving energy and mood and with no known downside this Andean wonder root is definitely worth a try.
SOUTH AMERICA: CHIA SEEDS Amy Selbach is the founder of the Taut Body Technique and owner of Taut Body Fitness Studio in Village Market Shopping Center, Gigiri. She is a certified holistic health coach, personal trainer and Pilates and Barre instructor, specializing in cross-training, holistic nutrition and weight loss. As a new mom, she can relate to the journey of weight-loss and staying fit during pregnancy and post pregnancy. She also conducts workshops on brand-building, and entrepreneurship through workshops and business incubators. Contact her at amy@tautbod.com
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Once a staple of the Incan, Mayan and Aztec diets, these black and white seeds are indeed a small health wonder. “Chia” is actually the Mayan word for strength. The seeds, which were used by these ancient civilizations as mega-energy food, have been called “Indian Running Food”. With their high concentration of protein, calcium, boron for building bone density, and potassium these seeds are perfect for supporting energy function. They even have omega 3 and 6. Great used to top salads, to incorporate into bread doughs or cookies and even in puddings.
ASIA: REISHI MUSHROOMS Many previously unknown natural remedies to the West have been used in Eastern medicine for literally thousands of years. One such remedy is the Reishi Mushroom. Originally found in Asian countries where it is referred to as “the super natural mushroom”, it is now grown worldwide for it ’s claimed positive effects on allergic symptoms and liver protection. It’s also being touted as a treatment for degenerative disease conditions.
ASIA: GOJI BERRIES This little berry has been used for over 6000 years in Asia and grows on shrubs in China, Mongolia and Tibet. Benefits include improved circulation, elimination of toxins, improved eyesight and prevention of vision loss. Several test tube studies show that goji extracts may prevent the growth of cancer cells, reduce blood glucose, and lower cholesterol level. Goji berries are rich in antioxidants, particularly carotenoids some of which play a key role in the protection of the retina of the eye. AFRICA AND AUSTRALIA: BAOBAB With its funny looks and gigantic proportions, the Baobab tree is the stuff of myths and fables here in Kenya. The fruit of this iconic African tree is also coming into the spotlight. The coconut-size smooth shell is an energy ball packed with vitamin C, calcium, B vitamins, magnesium, iron, phosphorous, antioxidants and fiber. The pulp is also starting to be recognized as a superfood. Potential for the growing industry is estimated at 1 billion dollars. Oddly enough I have yet to see baobab powder on the shelves in Kenya.
SOUTH PACIFIC: MANGOSTEEN A tropical fruit grown on trees living up to 100 years, mangosteen only grows in ultra-tropical areas. Because it contains no saturated fat or cholesterol but is rich in dietary fiber, vitamins and minerals and is low in calories this national fruit of Thailand is a health fanatics dream. Its high vitamin C content is a powerful antioxidant that helps the body resist flu-like infections and scavenge harmful free radicals. But it gets better…it also contains potassium, phosphorous, calcium, magnesium and even trace minerals such as copper, manganese and zinc.
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BOO!
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Buon appetito!
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DESSERT TEXT YuMMY STAFF
THE MaCaRON aNd YOU T
he macaron (not to be confused with the Macaroon) is a heavily debated little piece of confectionary goodness. Known mainly as a French pastry, there is controversy and debate over its origins. The bible of French cuisine, Larousse Gastronomique, pegs the birth of the macaron at a convent near Comery; yet the Italians have a different story. When Catherine de Medici of Italy married Henry II of France in 1533, she of course brought her own pastry chefs from the motherland. It is said the Macaron was introduced to France this way. There is even a connection to the French Revolution: Two nuns seeking asylum, famously called the ‘Macaron Sisters’, sold the delicacy on the streets of Nancy to pay for their room and board. It was not until the 1830s that macarons began to be served two-by-two with the addition of jams, liqueurs, and spices. Pierre Desfontaines of the French pâtisserie Ladurée has sometimes been
bELOw Sweet and colourful french macarons with cup of black coffee
credited with its creation in the early part of the 20th century, but another baker, Claude Gerbet, also claims to have invented it History aside, most sweet teeth out there can agree there are few things that taste better with a deliciously dark roasted espresso or Capuccino, than a Macaron. The ‘modern macaron’ is composed of
Most sweet tooths out there can agree there are few things that taste better with a deliciously dark roasted espresso or cappuccino, than a macaron
two almond meringue discs filled with a layer of buttercream, jam, or ganache filling. Best of all you can find these little puppies at several local patisseries and cafes, including the newly opened Suite 101 at Tribe Hotel, Mama’s Patisserie at ABC Place, The Gallery at Sankara Hotel, Cafe Villa Rosa at Kempinski and Zen Garden.
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COLuMN TEXT JACKSON BIKO aRT MOVIN WERE
MaN ON THE TOwN
Those guys would have shot us. I swear they would have put lead in us
Jackson Biko, is a lover of whisky and people watching. he likes to walk the shadows of the city at dusk, picking conversations of a people spurred by the night and by their drink.
I
know it’s time to say no because now my tongue feels blue. And heavy. Words drag out, tumbling and knocking against each other. My eyes are at half-mast. When I breathe I feel the fumes of whisky bristle the hairs in my nose. And did my mate’s new girlfriend just hold my gaze for a naughty beat or did I imagine that? I raise my hand in protest, like a Viet Cong cornered in a corner of the plantations by the Americans but the next glass of whisky still lands before me, sitting pretty under a glowing white serviette. The foreign correspondent, the one with Donald Trump’s hair, is talking about South Sudan. About the Janjaweed and some deep well. About a boy with a skin that is darker than ink. And camel. Many camels. I snatch pockets of these dismembered conversations. There are gales of laughter at the table behind where a blonde girl is trying to balance a tequila shot
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on her forehead. 1AM is the hour that the devil comes to play and up here at Level 8 bar at the Best Western Hotel is the devil’s den. Level 8 is like a spaceship project that astronauts decided to change into a bar midway. (That’s a compliment). Downstairs is blue-lit cave, all glass, where patrons look like hibernating extraterrestrials. (Another compliment). There, in the humming blue, your whiskey suddenly looks like jet fuel. Nairobi’s skyline, now flaming with colourful light, stretches beyond. It would be enthralling only if I could see it clearly. “Those guys would have shot us. I swear they would have put lead in us,” Trump’s hair is saying. I didn’t know folk still use the word “lead” in reference to bullets. Sounds very pre-Schwarzenegger. I suck on an ice cube for a moment, then quickly get bored and crush it loudly. Nobody turns to look at me. I reach for my wallet and slip some bills under my glass. Then
I sip my drink one last time and get up to my feet. “Bathroom,” I mumble shuffling away from the table, a cold wicked wind slapping me in the face in the process. Then I’m out in the parking lot, looking for a cab. Then I’m zooming up Argwings Kodhek, the cab guy playing an old Kenny Rogers song. How miserable are you to listen to country music at 2am? The next day I will wake up to numerous missed calls and a few WhatsApp messages all ranging from the concerned to the abusive. That’s the thing. You can’t say goodbye in a bar. You shouldn’t say goodbye in a bar. It goes against the grains of drinking etiquette. As soon as you announce departure someone will send you a drink or hang onto your coattails insisting on telling you a story you have heard many times before. So you do the Irish Exit, discreetly, soundlessly and with dignity—at least what’s left of it after 2 AM.
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COLuMN TEXT ChARITY KEITA
Ooh! They exclaimed, as they noisily sucked marrow out of the bones
I
had a dinner party the other night. My guests were one of those typical Nairobian international assortments: some Kenyans, an Ethiopian and an Italian/British couple thrown in for colour (I’m kidding of course: Giorgio and Bella, no dinner would be complete without your scintillating conversation). My buddies Sheila and Njoroge recently announced their engagement (via WhatsApp, is there any other way?) so we had planned to make our weekly dinner a celebration of the happy news. Let me provide a bit of background: we are a bunch of closeknit foodie friends. When we are not eating food, we are probably talking about it. We love food, we love drink, we love to go out to restaurants but above all we love to cook and share the conviviality that comes with eating together. Every week, one of us takes it
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MY LiFE aS a FOOdiE Born to a Kenyan/Malian diplomatic parents, Charity Keita spent her childhood hanging out in kitchens in the various countries her dad was assigned to. With this knowledge came the great responsibility of sharing her foodie knowledge with the world. upon themselves to cook for the rest of the group. We are not, may I add, members of the Nairobi Expat Food Lovers Facebook group because when it was launched, we all decided that we were not comfortable being part of a foodie group that defines itself by the expat identity of its members. I mean seriously, I get Nairobi Social Expat - you’re new in town and want someone to hang out with; I also get Nairobi Expat Housing - you want to have people with similar life experiences to share your living quarters with. But Nairobi Expat Food Lovers? Really? Is the implication that Kenyans could never be food lovers? The group is at best discriminatory/elitist and at worst racist. But I digress. My mission for the night was to make a Kenyan meal with an Italian twist. Everyone is always so focused on international cuisine,
that they forget that with a bit of imagination, our food too can be adapted into something worthy of world-class gourmets. After some thought, I settled on a menu of Ossobuco (cross-cut veal shanks) and Ugali, with a side of sukuma wiki and those lovely Kenyan cherry tomatoes that have begun appearing in my local veg shop. So I proceeded with an Italian style stew: brown the meat, fry up the onion and carrots, stick in a bunch of white wine, reserve a glass for yourself, throw in a bay leaf and let it bubble away for however long it takes. For the ugali, I took inspiration from an article that was featured on upnairobi. com earlier this year and went with the creamy option that involved cooking it in milk instead of water and adding a stock cube, butter and turmeric powder for colour. The sukuma was cooked in olive oil that I’d infused in garlic, chilli
and anchovies and the tomatoes I threw in towards the end, so they would stay whole and pop hot and juicy when you bite down on them. So there we were, it’s dinner time, everyone is sat around the table when it dawns on me: we forgot the bubbly! This kind of put a spanner in the works because I had a long toast lined-up and it just didn’t feel right doing it with Leleshwa red. Luckily, neither Sheila nor Njoroge had been told about the celebratory angle, so they were none the wiser as they carved a slice of creamy ugali from the serving dish. “Ooh!” the group exclaimed in unison, as they noisily sucked marrow out of the bones, “who knew ugali with stew could be so nice!” I smiled, smugly. Next time I’ll hit them with my famous Spaghetti Chinoise. Come back soon!
light up your tastebuds Meaning ‘street’ in Thai, SOI brings world-renowned Thai street with a modern twist to your plate. Such acclaimed cuisine and our contemporary space never fails to impress. The focus is on small plates, perfect for sharing and pairing. Get ready to light up your tastebuds!
visit www.soi.co.ke for more information 45.
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