A Travel Guide to Ireland

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GALWAY DOOLIN

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BALLYVAUGHAN LIMERICK KILKENNY

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Dublin to Kilkenny, Kilkenny to Killarney, Killarney to Limerick, Limerick to Doolin, Doolin to Ballyvaughan, Ballyvaughan to Galway, and Galway to Dublin, an Irish adventure in 12 days and 11 nights.

Éire IRELAND

2015

A 12 DAY 11 NIGHT TOUR OF IRELAND This is a simple guide created to give you a sense of how much can be done in a day in Ireland, while having time to catch your breath and make memories.

In Dublin you will visit museums, gardens, and historical sights and still have time for shopping and mingling with locals in this modern artistic city.

In Kilkenny you will wander the cobbled streets in the city and walk the paths of Woodstock Gardens after a tour of the Waterford Crystal Factory.

As you make your way to Killarney in Co. Kerry you will get a chance to see what is possibly the most famous tourist attraction in Ireland, Blarney Castle (please don’t kiss the Blarney Stone, it isn’t cleaned like ever), and enter into an amazing landscape. While Killarney itself is a very touristy city you will be perfectly placed to view the rest of the region as Kenmare, Skellig Michael (an island and monastic sight), The Dingle Peninsula, and The Killarney National Park are all easily accessible. In Limerick you will see beautiful architecture and visit the Limerick City Gallery—a thriving art space that is integral to the contemporary art scene—and have coffee at Cellar Door before driving out to a medieval experience at Bunratty Castle. In Doolin you will visit the Cliffs of Moher, see some of Ireland’s amazing coastline in Fanore and enjoy traditional music in local pubs. In Ballyvaughan you will move deeper into The Burren and spend the day practically tripping over historical sights, and marveling at the fact that yes, Ireland has palm trees. In Galway you will feel what it’s like to live in a medieval city, pass buskers singing in the streets, visit a Trad music shop, and take a drive into Connemara to see the hills and visit Kylemore Abbey.

Then on the return to Dublin you will visit The Hill of Tara and stand in the land of the Irish Kings before enjoying a final night in an amazing city at The School House Hotel.

When I first planned to study in Ireland back in 2008, I was almost afraid that it couldn’t possibly live up to the images in my head, but somehow all the things I didn’t expect, the real life things, and the people I met, made it so much better than I could have ever imagined. This guide is by no means set in stone, take detours, and enjoy your time exploring this magical place.

I know it’s left a strong impression on me. I can only hope it will stay with you in the same manner. ­—Gina R. Furnari

Photo: Co. Clare, Ireland

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OUTLINE Day 1 - Arrive in Dublin Day 2 Day 3 - Dublin to Kilkenny Day 4 - Kilkenny to Killarney Day 5 Day 6 - Killarney to Limerick Day 7 - Limerick to Doolin Day 8 - Doolin to Ballyvaughan Day 9 - Ballyvaughan to Galway Day 10 Day 11 - Galway to Dublin Day 12 - Fly Home NOTES •

In Ireland brown road signs denote points of interest.

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Always check your map or GPS as the “finger signs” (arrow shaped signposts) are easily turned.

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Some villages do not have banks or ATMs so plan accordingly

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Bring a raincoat and good walking shoes (umbrellas have a habit of turning inside out).

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Watch In The Name of the Fada on RTÉ to learn some Irish.

Átha Cliath DUBLIN NIGHTS 1 AND 2 S TAY Number 31 31 Leeson Close, Dublin 2 Number 31 is a modern and cozy hotel located 5 min walk from Saint Stephen’s Green. Stay here for hospitality and warmth in the heart of the city.

They also have super yummy breakfasts.

GETTING AROUND Airlink bus to city center (€6) runs every 15 to 20 min. The Green Hop on Hop Off Tour (€19) goes to all your desired locations. Freedom Tickets (€30) get you 72 hours of access to both of these as well as any other city buses. www.dublinsightseeing.ie I recommend not renting a car until you are ready to leave the city.

SEE Trinity College Trinity has one of the most amazing libraries in the world and seeing even one page of The Book of Kells was like a mini pilgrimage. The viewing time is about 40 min to see the book and walk through the library but, take your time and stroll the grounds a bit or it goes by in a blur. (€10) Dublin Castle and Gardens The Castle is a collection of state buildings some dating to Viking era Dublin.

While one could spend the better part of a day at this site alone I recommend a walk in the gardens and a visit to the Chapel Royal. The easiest access to the gardens is from Dame Street through the castle grounds.

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Photo: Gallery of Photography, Meeting House Square, Temple KILKENNY Bar, Dublin 2

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Photo: Elephant Castle Restaurant, Temple Bar, Dublin, 2006, photo by Anna & Michal DOOLIN

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Museums Dublin has no shortage of museums but for a short visit I recommend the permanent collection at The National Gallery (Merrion Square W) especially “The Marriage of Strongbow and Aoife”, and the bog men, Viking artifacts and the Celtic artifacts (Tara broach etc.) at the National Museum of Archeology (Kildare St). Keep an eye out for the locations these artifacts were found, you will be visiting many of them later in this trip. I also really love IMMA (the Irish Museum of Modern Art) and The Gallery Of Photography, both are fantastic spaces.

Temple Bar This is a historic district, great for a walk, a bar hop, and a bite to eat. Temple Bar is my favorite area of Dublin. I love the galleries and the pubs and there’s always live music and sometimes bands of pipers roam the streets. My absolute favorite restaurant in Dublin is Elephant and Castle (not related to the Canadian chain), it’s a great place to eat delicious food among locals.

Grafton Street and Saint Stephen’s Green There are few places in Dublin City more beautiful than Saint Steven’s Green and this area is a great place to wander, do a bit of shopping, and view beautiful historic Dublin. For a glimpse at where contemporary and historic Ireland meet I recommend The Rubicon Gallery (10 Saint Stephen’s) located in a beautiful Georgian building overlooking the park. The gallery represents some of Ireland’s leading contemporary artists. I also suggest a trip to Kennedy & Sons Art Supply (Harcourt St). An artist run shop that just explodes with color.

Folk Food and Fairies Dinner 20 Bridge St. 10 min walk from Temple Bar www.irishfolktours.com This event runs most nights in Dublin and is a really great way to get settled into Ireland. (€46)

Cill Chainnigh KILKENNY NIGHT 3 Distance from Dublin 1:40 h S TAY Kilkenny Hibernian Hotel 1 Ormonde St, Kilkenny This is an inviting and comfortable hotel with a well-rated restaurant on-site.

SEE In Town Kilkenny is a pretty great place; you can climb to the top of Saint Canice’s Tower (The Close, Coach Rd, Kilkenny), stroll through the trees and browse local crafts at Castlecombers (The Estate Yard, Castlecomer, Co. Kilkenny) or have a pint at Tynan’s Bridge House (2 John’s Bridge, Kilkenny).

Waterford Crystal Factory Distance 2 hours from Dublin, 40 min from Kilkenny Factory tours (€12) take you through the process of creating these beautiful objects from designing to cutting. Tours start at 9am on Monday and the last tour is at 3:45pm. On your return to Kilkenny I recommend a walk through Woodstock Gardens and Arboretum and the village of Inistioge.

On the Road from Kilkenny to Killarney This drive has lots of great sights along the way including The Rock of Cashel (€6)—the traditional seat of the kings of Munster and home to a complex of medieval buildings—and Cahir town—a historic heritage site and home to Cahir Castle (€4) and The Swiss Cottage. About an hour down the road is Blarney Village and Castle (€13). These sights are lined up pretty much in a row down the same road. Don’t forget to stop and eat.

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Above photo: Kilkenny City Panorama (cropped), Ireland, 2006, photo by J.Pollock DOOLIN

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Photo: Ross Castle, Killarney, 2005, photo by Mags L Halliday

Cill Airne KILLARNEY NIGHTS 4 AND 5 Distance from Kilkenny 2:40 h, distance from Blarney 1:16 h S TAY The Royal Hotel College Street, Killarney The Royal is a classically beautiful hotel in a Georgian Town House.

Afternoon Tea is served daily in the lounge.

SEE Killarney National Park and The Ring of Kerry The Killarney National Park is home to Ross Castle, and the Muckross House and Gardens both of which are open to the public. If you only scheduled one day in this region this is the place to spend it. I also recommend a drive to Kenmare (about 30 min down the road) and back for scenic views, shopping, and walking trails.

Skellig Michael skelligislands.com This remote 7th century monastic site requires a bit of planning and a bit of luck. The island is beautiful but getting there takes about 40 min from Portmagee by boat and operators only sail in good weather (€50-60). There is also a limit to how many people are allowed on the island at one time so book in advance of your trip to Ireland. That said there are few places like this in the world and if you’re up for the journey it’s well worth it. You will even get to see the bird colony and seals on Little Skellig. Departure time is 10am and you will have about 2 h on the island, which is ample time as there are no amenities of any kind.

The Dingle Peninsula Distance from Killarney 1:15 h DUBLIN Dingle is home to some beautiful sites dating back to the Mesolithic era.

You can visit Gallarus Castle (a fifteenth century tower house) and Gallarus Oratory (an early Christian church) and Dún Beag Fort looking out over the sea. For me the real must see in Dingle is the Harry Clarke Stained Glass at the Díseart Institute (Green Street, Dingle).

KILKENNY Clarke was an Arts and Crafts era artist and contemporary of W.B. Yeats.

His work is breathtakingly beautiful.

Dingle requires a full day.

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Luimneach LIMERICK NIGHT 6 Distance from Killarney 1:30 h S TAY No.1 Pery Square Georgian Quarter, Limerick No.1 Pery Square is a stylish yet cozy hotel walking distance from the People’s Park and the Limerick City Gallery.

SEE On the Road from Killarney The best place to stop on this drive is Adare, I recommend getting breakfast (or at least picking up some baked goods for the road) at The Good Room Cafe (Main Street) followed by a stroll through the village.

In The City In Limerick you can take a walking tour of The Georgian Quarter, sample local food at the Milk Market, and see what’s on view at the Limerick City Gallery. The Gallery has a significant permanent collection as well as ever changing contemporary exhibitions (Admission is free). I also recommend stopping for coffee or tea at Celler Door (Little Ellen Street).

Bunratty Castle and Banquet Distance from Limerick 15 min Bunratty Castle is a large tower house built by the O’Brien’s in 1425. The castle and Folk Park are open to the public and are a nice way to round out your day in Limerick. The now famous Medieval Banquets occur twice nightly at 5:30 and 8:45pm (€53), and include a four-course meal and a show. Think Medieval Times but in a real castle and singing rather than jousting.

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Photo: The Milk Market, Limerick, Co Limerick LIMERICK (cropped), 2012, photo by Chris Brooks DOOLIN

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Top photo: Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, Co. Clare (cropped), 2006, photo by Pierre Gorissen DOOLIN

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Bottom photo: View from the tower at Bunratty Castle & Folk Park, Co. Clare, 2009, photo by Charles Hutchins DOOLIN

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Dhúlainn DOOLIN NIGHT 7 Distance from Bunratty 1 h S TAY Kate’s Place Near Fisher Street, Doolin katesplacedoolin.com Kate’s Place is a great B&B with a really lovely style.

SEE On the Road From Bunratty The city of Ennis is located halfway from Bunratty to Doolin and sits on the River Fergus. There are pubs, a Friary (built in 1292) and a highly rated nature preserve (Dromore Wood Nature Reserve).

Aran Islands Ferry doolinferry.com The ferry from Doolin leaves at 10 or 11 am. You can book a trip to Inis Mór (€25) and spend the day there or you can book the combined Inis Oírr and Cliffs of Moher trip (€30). Inis Oírr is the smallest island, home to medieval ruins and lots of natural sights. While the cliff edges of the Aran Islands are undoubtedly shorter than the famous ones on the mainland they are also generally less crowded and you can sit closer to the edge (just be careful). The DUBLIN cliff cruise takes you to the base of the Cliffs of Moher, which is KILKENNY an amazing view.

Cliffs of Moher and The Caher Valley Loop The Cliffs of Moher are a “can’t miss”KILLARNEY destination. There will likely be a lot of fellow tourists here but the views are phenomenal and the visitor’s center KILKENNY is quite nice. I actually had some really tasty soup here. To escape some of the crowds, I recommend The Caher Valley Loop in Fanore (25 min from the Cliffs). It’s a great walk for hikers, and FanoreGALWAY Beach is a beautiful sight popular with surfers.

In Town LIMERICK Evenings in Doolin are filled with Traditional Irish Music and DOOLIN O’Connor’s Pub is only a short walk from Kate’s Place B&B. Photo: Fanore Beach Fanore, Co, Clare

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Baile Uí Bheacháin BALLYVAUGHAN NIGHT 8 Distance from Doolin 28 min S TAY Logues Lodge Main Street, Ballyvaughan www.logueslodge.ie Logues Lodge is a lovely small hotel on the main road in Ballyvaughan.

The pub has good food and is a really fun place to hang out. I took a couple of set dancing lessons here before realizing I was terrible at it.

SEE On the Road from Doolin to Ballyvaughan There are a few ways to get from Doolin to Ballyvaughan. The R477 takes you through Fanore and the Caher Valley Loop while the N67 takes you through the town of Lisdoonvarna. Lisdoonvarna is home to a famous matchmaking festival and a horseback ridding facility. It’s is a great place to stop for a bite to eat (I recommend Sheedy’s). If you choose this route take Corkscrew Hill very carefully, and make sure to check for rainbows on the way down.

In Town Ballyvaughan is a small town in the heart of The Burren. It’s home to Newtown Castle (site of my alma mater, The Burren College of Art and a lovely cafe) a tower house that is a nice short climb, Aillwee Caves (€5 for the caves €6 for the Birds of Prey Center), and it’s a great place for outdoor excursions like hiking or scuba diving. The best way to see both ancient ruins and the amazing flora unique to this region is to pick up a Rambler’s Guide (a beautifully illustrated map of the area, available at the EMO station and the gift shops) and bring some sturdy shoes. Ballyvaughan is also a perfect place for an easygoing pub-crawl and a walk by the bay.

Poulnabrone Dolmen and The Burren This is The Burren region. The National Park (located near Corofin) and surrounding region are protected land do to the unique limestone-rich terrain and the wide variety of plants which grow here. This includes flora normally found only in Arctic and Mediterranean environments. (To learn more you can visit The Burren Center in Kilfenora.) Poulnabrone Dolmen is a Megalithic tomb that sits in the Ring of Sorrows. It’s a beautiful area with lots of historic sights including stone circles, wedge tombs and cairns. Some of the artifacts from The National Gallery of Archeology were discovered right here including a gold torq.

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KILLARNEY KILKENNY GALWAY LIMERICK DOOLIN Top Photo: Galway Bay, Ballyvaughan, Co, Clare Bottom Photo: Pรกirc na Binne wedge tomb, the Burren, Co. Clare

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Top photo: Kylemore Abbey, Connemara, Co. Galway Bottom photo: Killary Fjord, Leenane, Co. Galway

Gaillimn GALWAY NIGHTS 9 AND 10 Distance from Ballyvaughan 1:08 h S TAY Menlo Park Hotel Headford Road, Galway Menlo Park is a lovely hotel located an easy 15 min outside the center of Galway.

SEE On the Road from Ballyvaughan to Galway I recommend a visit to Corcomroe Abbey a 13th century Cistercian monastery easily accessed from the road. Another great stop is the town of Kinvara home of Dunguaire Castle.

In Town Galway is a historic city with a college vibe that must be walked. You can browse music and instruments at P. Powell and Sons (53 William Street) listen to buskers and window shop on Shop Street; and have lunch by the fire at The Kings Head.

Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Walled Garden Distance from Galway 1:22 h (₏13) I really recommend the drive out to Kylemore. Located in the hills of Connemara, The Abbey was formerly Kylemore Castle until Belgian Nuns restored it in the 1920s. It features beautiful gardens, a rich history, and three restaurants serving up fresh meals daily. If you make this trip don’t miss the opportunity to drive out to Killary Fjord (20 min from Kylemore in Leenane, Co Galway). If you time it right you can take a boat tour but the views from land are worth the dive.

This trip takes the better part of a day.

Aran Islands Ferry If you missed seeing the Aran Islands from Doolin you can catch a ferry from Galway as well.

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Photo: Daniel O’Connell, O’Connel Street, Dublin 1

Átha Cliath DUBLIN NIGHT 11 Distance from Galway 2 h S TAY Schoolhouse Hotel 2 - 8 Northumberland Road | Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 The hotel is housed in a converted Victorian schoolhouse and features a beautiful restaurant and bar.

SEE On the Road from Galway The Monastery of Clonmacnoise (€6) and Tullamore Dew Visitor Center (€9) are both on the road from Galway to Dublin.

Newgrange and The Hill of Tara Distance from Galway 3h, distance from Clonmacnoise 2 h Saying good bye to Ireland is hard but, Newgrange (€3), an impressive Neolithic monument about 1 h north of Dublin and The Hill of Tara (€3), the legendary seat of Irish kings are a great way to spend your last day in Ireland.

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Photo: Hill of Tara, Co. Meath, 2014, photo by jemartin03 DOOLIN

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Go raibh maith agat!

THANK YOU! This guide was written and designed by Gina Rafaella Furnari Š 2015 All images in this guide were taken by Gina Rafaella Furnari unless otherwise indicated.