Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Magazine - Summer 2011 by Vinipresse

CONTENTS

Contents COLUMNS

GILBERT & GAILLARD NEXT ISSUE OUT AUTUMN 2011

74-75

GILBERT & GAILLARD

NEW YORK LIFE

THE WORLDWIDE WINE SIGNATURE

SUBSCRIPTIONS

81-82

2 YEARS 43.90 € - 1 YEAR 23.60 € SEE ON PAGE 38

FAMILY BUSINESS • Bill Deutsch, WJ Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.

98-99 WINE GROWER PORTRAITS • Jonathan Grieve: South African creator of nature-friendly wines

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100-102 ORGANIC NEWS • Do organic wines age well?

104-105 WINE QUOTATIONS • Port and Madeira: Mythical wines that live (almost) forever

106 106-107 11-12

62-65

QUALITY FACTORS

LONDON LIFE

WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

• What’s the point of pruning?

• Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters

13-15 NEWS

• Domaine du Deffends: when dreams become reality

108-110 STARS AND WINE GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

CONTENTS

Contents REPORTS

PLEASE GIVE US YOUR FEEDBACK info@gilbertgaillard.fr

39-44 HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS • Bordeaux: The Keys to success

45-51 TRAVEL • Provence: A look at the five main rosé wine areas

52-61 QUALITY FACTORS • Rosés stay the course

66-72 REGION • The drive for quality in Languedoc

75-80 TRAVEL • Discovery trip in Indiana

83-88 HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS • Italy’s indigenous grape varieties

89-93 94

REGION • Do Ribera del Duero, A Spanish stand-out

94-97 16-35 COVER STORY THE BEST 2010 WINES FROM FRANCE, ITALY AND THE USA • Bordeaux Primeur 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard picks • Premium Italian wines prove their excellence • The best of what might be: A taste of the top American Wines from 2010

24 4

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WINE AND FOOD • Gilles Goujon : collecting stars

111-114 RECOMMENDED WINES

THIS MAGAZINE IS PRINTED ON RECYCLABLE PAPER

FRANÇOIS GILBERT

www.gilbertgaillard.com

he development of wine on the web has been

surprising, but inevitable. Only ten years ago, most of us thought that selling wine on the internet would never work. Today, if you type ‘buy wine online’ into a search engine, you receive over 858,000 hits! Wine has effortlessly gone digital. We see evidence of this daily on

Wine goes online

our own website, which gets several thousand visits a day from people in countries around the world. In response to demand, we have created English, Chinese and Japanese versions of our site, to transmit the information in our international wine guides. Our latest innovation is the development of the Gilbert & Gaillard iPhone application, available since May, which allows users to consult our scores and reviews of the wines we have tasted, as well as a geolocation feature that indicates nearby wineries or estates. An Android application will be available in the autumn. Print, of course, has not disappeared and certainly has a long future ahead of it, but the impact of the digital revolution has already been significant and is increasing daily. Note: Our website www.gilbertgaillard.com is now available in Chinese and Japanese.

François Gilbert Editorial director

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SUMMER 2011

PHILIPPE GAILLARD

www.gilbertgaillard.com

ntil recently, the Chinese wine market

consisted of two main segments: well-known and expensive wines sought by the wealthy, and bottomrange wines sold at very low prices. Today, a new market segment is developing for wines between 3 and 7 euros - the challenge in this segment will be

Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide in Chinese

for winemakers to establish their brands.

Few are aware that China recently became the 7th largest wine producer in the world, particularly due to groups such as Changyu and Dynasty. This was a deciding factor when we chose to publish our wine guide in Chinese; because when a country begins to produce wine, it also takes on the values and culture associated with drinking it. This edition of the Chinese guide includes mainly French and other European wines, as well as American wines, but we intend to eventually add Chinese wines tasted at our Gilbert & Gaillard office in Shanghai. Chinese wine drinkers will want information on domestic wines as well as imported wines - and we will be there to provide it.

Philippe Gaillard Editorial director

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SYLVAIN PATARD

www.gilbertgaillard.com

ublishing our wine guide in English!

A brilliant idea: making us the first guide to French wine aimed at English-speaking wine drinkers. This new concept saw the light of day in 2008. This is also when we began to increase our staff of

Taking French wine to the world

international tasters and were joined by Delphine VeissiĂ¨re (Italy), Emmanuel de Lanversin and Jamal Rayyis (United States) and Thomas Magnani (China). Soon after, we opened Gilbert & Gaillard offices in these countries in order to build relationships with local winemakers and importers. These developments have been fundamental in our ability to closely monitor these huge markets. The English version of the third edition of the Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Guide will come out this autumn. It is the sole international wine guide created by a French publisher, and an ideal vector for championing our French and European emphasis on wines based on the expression of terroir to a global audience.

Sylvain Patard Editor in chief

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LONDON LIFE

Mark’s favourite venues

Spring is always one of the busiest times of the wine trade calendar. Merchants, importers and sommeliers are finalising their new wine lists and London is awash with winemakers and salespeople looking to promote their wares. All of this culminates in mid-May with the London International Wine Fair at the Excel Centre - the perfect opportunity to catch up with industry friends and colleagues over dinner!

Mark Andrew

11-13 Abingdon Road London W8 6AH Tel. +44 (0)207 937 0120 www.kitchenw8.com

The décor is clean and contemporary, while the menu is surprisingly well priced (most starters sub-£10 and mains around £20). It was a warm evening and I was in the mood for seafood so I started with a ravioli of tiger prawns and octopus. To wash down the entrees we enjoyed a bottle of Jean-Marc Boillot’s excellent Montagny 1er Cru (£50), although the great value Picpoul de Pinet from Chateau de la Mirande (£22) was a well-priced alternative. All of the main courses sounded delicious, but I went for the sea bream and wasn’t disappointed. Continuing the Chardonnay theme but looking for something a bit bigger, we took Leeuwin’s fabulous Art Series Chardonnay from Margaret River in Australia (£85), certainly one of the New World’s finest examples of the varietal.

The service was attentive, the food was excellent and the wine list well chosen. While Kitchen W8 has some way to go to better Phillip’s two star establishments, it is priced much more affordably and offers impressive value for money.

A BRILLIANT CONCEPT Kensington Wine Rooms 127 - 129 Kensington Church Street London W8 7LP Tel. +44 (0)207 727 8142 www.greatwinesbytheglass.com

“focuses on quality ingredients, well sourced, cooked without excessive fuss”. By way of an aperitif we got started with one of my favourite NV Champagnes, Jacquesson 734 (£69) which was perfect for washing down some pan-fried scallops. For the main course I chose a rack of lamb and what better way to accompany it than with a bottle of Roc des Anges (£33.60) - fantastic value from the Roussillon. It’s clear that Kensington Wine Rooms has been created by wine lovers, for wine lovers. On the evidence of the atmosphere that I encountered there, there are plenty of those wine lovers in West London.

One of the newer additions to Notting Hill’s social scene is Kensington Wine Rooms - a brilliant concept for wine lovers and one they have since replicated in Fulham. The expertly selected wine list runs to 150 bins, 40 of which are available by the glass from self-service Enomatic machines that line the walls. It is an innovative set up that encourages experimentation and is a lot of fun for any wine geek. It’s not just about wine though. There is a well-priced menu of European dishes that

Kensington Wine Rooms

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The Ledbury and The Square are two of my favourite restaurants, so I have been meaning to visit Kitchen W8 (all are owned by Phillip Howard) since it opened in 2009. The fact that the latest Michelin Guide had awarded it a star made me even more curious.

Kitchen W8

AWARDED BY MICHELIN GUIDE Kitchen W8

LONDON I NTERNATIONAL W INE FAIR

days, 3000 producers, 20,000 wines and 13,745 visitors (up by 61 on last year). The LIWF is one of the world’s most important wine trade events and one that seems to conjure excitement and dread in equal measure for those of us that attend each year. In addition to providing a promotional platform for the usual mix of importers, agents, regional bodies, national associations and mega brands, the fair has a comprehensive programme of seminars and discussion panels that feature the industry’s leading experts and tackle many of the most important trends and contemporary issues.

Two subjects in particular dominated the agenda this year - how to survive the tough economic conditions, and the importance of the Internet and social media. The latter led to the creation of an area called the Access Zone that played host to a series of seminars during the three days of the fair. James Murray, Event Director of LIWF said “There’s absolutely no doubt that this has to be a part of the way forward. It’s integral that the industry sits up and pays attention”. This commitment to technology’s role in the future of wine is admirable and the buzz surrounding the Access Zone confirmed that many of the visitors agree. Discussion about how to prosper in a difficult market took on a variety of forms (reflecting the diversity of the visitors), including a better understanding of the consumer, dealing with the weakness of sterling and finding new ways to approach packaging and label design.

that the fair provides them with a unique opportunity to speak to the British wine trade. Matteo Catania of Sicilian winery Gulfi was relishing the opportunity to show his range of wines, saying “the UK market is very important to us and one that we want to develop, so the chance to meet so many potential clients is too good to miss”. Jon Pepper is Managing Director at Buckingham Schenk, one of the UK’s largest suppliers to supermarkets and an exhibitor at the fair for many years. For the last few shows, Buckingham Schenk have enhanced their presence by mooring a three-masted ship on the quay behind Excel, where they conduct meetings and tastings. Pepper said “We see LIWF as an essential part of our corporate marketing strategy. It’s great for networking and an important opportunity to see all of our customers. Having the boat moored alongside is a good way to differentiate ourselves from our competitors and allows us to entertain all our key customers and partners.” The fair has also proven to be a great way for regional and national bodies to promote

Out on the floor, the mood was encouragingly optimistic, with many exhibitors feeling

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their brand and the quality of their wines. One of the best organised of these is the Languedoc & Roussillon’s ”Sud de France”, who used the show to announce the results of their Prestige Wines competition as well as shining a light on the quality and value that the region has to offer. Sébastien du Boullay said “London Wine Fair is a great opportunity for Sud de France to bring over producers that are looking for representation. With more than 500 visitors to our stand, it is clear that there is great interest in the UK for Languedoc-Roussillon wines.” So after a tiring three days of non-stop tasting and talking, it appears that the LIWF still has what it takes to attract a large and enthusiastic audience. However, it is increasingly obvious that the show is of different relevance to different sectors. With the resounding success of the Natural Wine Fair and the Specialist Importers Trade Tasting (SITT), not to mention anecdotal conversations with many of my industry colleagues in the independent retail and restaurant sectors, the fair seems to be loosing some relevance for those operating at the higher end of the trade. As the buyer for an independent merchant that specialises in selling to ”high involvement” customers (both the public and sommeliers), I don’t go to LIWF ‘looking’ for new wines to list. Rather, it is an opportunity to touch base with a lot of people in a short period of time and a chance for me to revisit the portfolios of some of our competitors. It would be nice to think that a lot of small, boutique wineries would come to LIWF waiting to be ‘discovered’, but the reality is that the fair seems to be heading in the other direction and becoming increasingly dominated by the big agents and the big brands.

LONDON LIFE

NEWS

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NEWS

THE RETURN OF A LEGEND

OLIVE OIL TASTING AT THE DOMAINE DE LA ROYRIE On a site founded in the 15th century, the olive groves of the Domaine de la Royrie on the Côte d’Azur produce grand cru organic olive oil. The estate’s olive oils are labelled Appellation d’Origine Protégée AOP Nice Olive Oil, a guarantee of quality. They have fragrant, elegant, bold aromas reminiscent of hazelnut, ripe olive and fresh almond. The estate won a gold medal at the 2011 Concours Général Agricole de Paris. The inventor of oléologie, or olive tasting, the Domaine de la Royrie offers olive oil tasting courses as well as culinary workshops. It is located in Grasse, near Nice, in the Alpes-Maritimes. For more information, visit their website: www.oelologie.fr

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Banned since the first decades of the 1900s, absinthe has recently been reintroduced in France under the name of Versinthe by the Liquoristerie de Provence, a distillery that specialises in reviving the spirits and liqueurs of Provence’s past in order to protect their heritage. For over two years, Versinthe will be the only plant-based absinthe liqueur available legally in France. To reach a wider public, a Versinthe smartphone application is planned, which will offer a large choice of different cocktails that you can make at home. Versinthe is available for 25 euros a bottle from the Liquoristerie de Provence shop in Venelles, near Aix-enProvence, or from websites such as: www.absinthefrenchmanspoon.com or www.nice-art.com

A VERY STYLISH CHAMPAGNE Since its creation in 1785, the Champagne house Piper-Heidsieck has collaborated with top designers. In 1999, Jean-Paul Gaultier dressed up a bottle of Piper-Heidsieck Champagne in a red corset. Today, the designer has updated the idea using new materials such as fishnet and latex, giving the bottle a Parisian touch of seduction. The bottle sells for 200 euros and comes with a black varnished wine chalice and a fishnet Champagne bucket. It is available at Nikki Beach in Cannes and La Maison Blanche in Paris. This original idea is totally in keeping with the image of PiperHeidsieck, the party Champagne par excellence.

NEWS

ALL WE NEED IS… A TRANSLATION! Lidewij van Wilgen left a career in advertising and a comfortable life in Amsterdam to become a winemaker in the South of France. Nine years later the wines of Mas des Dames are seen as some of the best in Languedoc. About her struggle to learn this whole new trade and to adapt to a life far from the city she wrote an exiting book: The Domain. A gripping read about determination, passion and love.. and about wine, of course. A must- have for wine lovers, highly recommended for everyone else. Now all we need is a translation in English...

CHAMPAGNE P. Lassalle-Hanin Brut 1er cru Cuvée Florale Light gold. The nose shows abundant freshness and intermixes floral and fruity notes. Fleshy palate framed by refined effervescence. The aromas don a pleasant crisp tone and the finish retains abundant freshness. A party sparkler.

SANCERRE A.C. Michel Vattan Cuvée Argile 2010 Light yellow with greenish tints. Profound nose intermixing notes of citrus fruit and silica. Full-bodied, well-structured with the fat on entry flowing into a livelier finish. Long and harmonious across the palate.

CHAMPAGNE Marquis de Pomereuil Rosé des Riceys 2006 Orangy hue. Open nose with notes of dried fruits, fruit butter and mild spices. Supple palate framed by fat, full and persistent. The dried fruit aromatics flow into oaked notes on the finish. Drink with poultry.

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FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

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COVER STORY

The best 2010 wines from France, Italy and the USA We have visited the best wineries in France, Italy and the United States to bring you the latest information that all wine enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting - reviews of the 2010 vintage of premium wines. For Bordeaux wines, we have exclusively tasted the 2010 vintage en primeur, as is the tradition in France. In Italy and the United States, we also tasted vintages from other years (in particular, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009), which confirmed the quality and the consistency of these fine wines. In the following pages, you will find our reviews and assessments in detail, along with our tasting scores.

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COVER STORY

Bordeaux primeurs 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks Léoville Barton, Léoville Poyferré, Brane Cantenac, Fieuzal, Figeac and La Gaffelière reds; Domaine de Chevalier and Château Carbonnieux whites; Châteaux Rabaud-Promis and DoisyVédrines Sauternes: here are our top ten picks of 2010 Bordeaux primeurs from a week spent wine tasting in April.

s a result of the summer-long drought last year in Bordeaux, the 2010 vintage beats all previous records in terms of phenol concentration and alcohol content. However, compared to 2009, the month of August was rather cool, so the wines, particularly the Cabernets, retain a slightly higher level of acidity.

2010: RECORD-BREAKING CONCENTRATION In our view, the 2010 vintage is most successful when the purity and freshness of the fruit takes precedence over strength and concentration. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. This year, on both the right and left banks of the Gironde River, we again find high-alcohol wines that are highly concentrated, extremely dense, robust and hot, reinforced by the dominant presence of oak. This type of wine makes a strong impression, without a doubt, but provides little pleasure. We might do well to wonder if these wines’ powerful build is a guarantee that it will age well. The dry, sometimes vegetal tannins and the sensation of heat found in certain wines of this style could cast doubt on this. GILBERT & GAILLARD

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COVER STORY

THE PREMIERS CRUS REMAIN DEPENDABLE

OUR TOP 10

Most of the grand classics, premiers crus and certain grands crus make out rather well this year, effortlessly proving their worth as ageing wines by uniting density, strength and balance. Lafite, Latour and Haut-Brion command attention; Margaux, Cheval Blanc and Montrose lean more towards fruit … The characteristics of ‘solidity’ that stand out in the 2010 vintage will no doubt delight certain American reviewers and enthusiasts of big,

These wines represent, in our opinion, the best of Bordeaux’s 2010 vintage, from all of the region’s appellations. In April, we sampled around 200 wines in blind tastings to create this top-ten list :

full-bodied, oak-laden wines.

100/100 - Château Léoville Barton 2010 Saint-Julien A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855)

FRESHNESS, BALANCE, ELEGANCE For our part, we remain proponents of more ethereal wines that possess the structure required in a great wine, while emphasising

This was our pick of the year. A deep crimson colour, with a ripe nose of sharp red fruit and a subtle hint of oak. Full, fresh, dense and silky mouthfeel. Remarkable structure, with a bold and lingering finish. A great wine.

fruit and freshness and a more limited use of oak. In addition to these qualities, in our tastings we looked for good ageing potential, and we found some 2010 wines that very successfully combine fresh, fruity aromas with a concentration and strength that is not excessive. These were the wines we preferred. Of these, this year, red fruit gets the honours: a sharp, acidic, distinctive red fruit that deliciously appeals to the nose and palate. But although the flavours are subtle, these wines also have structure and intensity. In our view, they best represent the 2010 vintage and certainly have the potential to improve with age as well as, if not better than, their muscular cousins. We introduce the marvellous Léoville Barton as evidence to make our case: structured, subtle, smooth, fresh… pure bliss.

A deep crimson colour with a nose of fresh red fruit and a touch of oak. A fruity acidity on the palate, balanced by a style that is big, generous and structured. A lively, fresh wine that is a good expression of the 2010 vintage.

98/100 - Château Brane Cantenac 2010 Margaux A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855) A deep crimson colour with a penetrating bouquet of ripe red fruit delicately balanced with oak. Good density, with a soft, smooth texture; mellow and powerful. Good balance between concentration and acidity. A lovely wine.

WHAT WILL THE FUTURE BRING?

98/100 - Château Fieuzal 2010 Pessac-Léognan A.C.( red wine)

Primeur tasting is a sensitive exercise, as most of the wines are in

After an unadvisable venture in the recent past that saw oak take precedence over this magnificent terroir, this year Château Fieuzal has come up with a double win, in both red and white. The red is a deep crimson, with a concentrated nose that shows off the fruit to its best advantage. The attack is rich and fleshy with a touch of acidity. The finish is long, the concentration balanced and elegant. Quite fresh and lively.

their infancy. Our results, obtained from blind tastings (apart from a few winemakers who refuse to participate in group tastings one might ask why), are therefore a snapshot of wines at a given moment in time. And as we have said, in the snapshot we have taken we have favoured fruit, freshness, elegance and balance (at the present time) rather than power and strength. Moreover, the past has shown that wines with the best ageing potential are not always those we might think. We will of course be tasting the 2010 wines again when they are bottled. Nothing guarantees that at that point the list of winners will be the same. Wine is a question of patience, not of prediction.

Gilbert & Gaillard

99/100 - Château Léoville Poyferré 2010 Saint-Julien A.C. (2e Grand Cru Classé 1855)

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98/100 - Château Figeac 2010 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1st Cru Classé B) This cru classé has the particularity of consisting of more than two-thirds Cabernet. The vintage has a deep red colour with crimson highlights and an intense nose of ripe red fruits and lightly toasted oak. A firm structure with concentrated tannins and an appealing vivacity. This young wine is still closed, but we liked its structure and purity. continued on page 20

Bordeaux primeurs 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks

100/100 Château Léoville Barton 2010

98/100 Château Brane Cantenac 2010

98/100 Château Figeac 2010

Saint-Julien A.C.

Margaux A.C.

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C.

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COVER STORY

99/100 Domaine de Chevalier 2010

98/100 Château Carbonnieux 2010

98/100 Château Doisy Védrines

Pessac-Léognan A.C.

Sauternes-Barsac A.C.

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Bordeaux primeurs 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks

98/100 - Château La Gaffelière 2010 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1st Cru Classé B) Already singled out for its 2009 vintage, Château La Gaffelière has once again confirmed its rising quality. It is clear that the work of the consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt has started to pay off. The colour is deep with crimson highlights. The nose is pure and exudes red fruit. Warmth on the palate is balanced by freshness, supported by an elegant tannic structure. The taste of fruit stays on the palate.

99/100 - Domaine de Chevalier 2010 Pessac-Léognan A.C. (white wine) Always a cut above the rest, this Domaine de Chevalier white establishes itself again this year as unquestionably the best of the Bordeaux whites. Its pale yellow colour has green tints, and the nose is of citrus fruits and lime. An attack that is fleshy, while very smooth and fresh, with sharp, clean, subtle aromas. Long and ethereal.

98/100 - Château Carbonnieux 2010 Pessac-Léognan A.C. (Grand Cru Classé, white wine) A pale yellow colour with an acidic bouquet of lime and citrus. A crisp, sweetish palate, balanced with the freshness of grapefruit. A fine wine.

99/100 - Château Rabaud-Promis Sauternes A.C. (1er Grand Cru classé) A deep golden colour with an intense nose of exotic and candied fruit. The attack is fleshy but fresh, with good length. A very good, well-structured wine with a lingering finish.

98/100 - Château Doisy Védrines Sauternes-Barsac A.C. (2e Grand Cru classé) A light golden colour with a rich, concentrated, sharp nose with hints of citrus and exotic fruits. Exuberant palate of crunchy fruits and notes of honey and oak. A remarkable vintage.

ALL OUR PICKS Pauillac A.C. 98/100 97/100 96/100 95/100 94/100 92/100 91/100

Château Lafite Rothschild 2010 Château Latour 2010 Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 Château Lynch Bages 2010 Château Duhart Milon 2010 Château Clerc Milon 2010 Les Forts de Latour 2010

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COVER STORY

90/100 90/100 89/100 87/100

Carruades de Lafite 2010 Château d’Armailhac 2010 Château Pédesclaux 2010 Château Croizet Bages 2010

Saint-Estèphe A.C. 96/100 94/100 94/100 90/100

Château Montrose 2010 Château Cos Labory 2010 Château Cos d’Estournel 2010 Château Lafon Rochet 2010

Château Margaux 2010 Château Brane Cantenac 2010 Château d’Issan 2010 Château Rauzan Segla 2010 Château Kirwan 2010 Château Lascombes 2010 Château Malescot Saint-Exupery 2010 Château Rauzan Gassies 2010 Château Cantenac Brown 2010 Château Prieuré Lichine 2010 Château Boyd Cantenac 2010 Château Desmirail 2010 Château Ferrière 2010 Pavillon de Margaux 2010 Château Marquis de Terme 2010 Château Pouget 2010

Saint-Julien A.C. 100/100 Château Léoville Barton 2010 99/100 Château Léoville Poyferré 2010 96/100 Château Branaire Ducru 2010 95/100 Château Saint-Pierre 2010 94/100 Château Lagrange 2010 93/100 Château Langoa Barton 2010 92/100 Château Talbot 2010 90/100 Château Beychevelle 2010

Sauternes and Barsac A.C. 99/100 Château Rabaud-Promis 2010 98/100 Château Doisy Védrines 2010 97/100 Château d’Yquem 2010 96/100 Château Doisy-Daëne 2010 96/100 Château Lamothe Guignard 2010 96/100 Château Romer 2010 95/100 Château d’Arche 2010 94/100 Château Caillou 2010 94/100 Château Lamothe 2010 94/100 Château de Myrat 2010 94/100 Château Coutet 2010 93/100 Château Filhot 2010 93/100 Clos Haut-Peyraguey 2010 92-93/100 Château La Tour Blanche 2010 92/100 Château Broustet 2010 92/100 Château de Malle 2010

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98/100 98/100 96/100 96/100 95/100 94/100 94/100 93/100 93/100 93/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 90/100 89/100

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Margaux A.C.

IN OUR VIEW, THE 2010 VINTAGE IS MOST SUCCESSFUL WHEN THE PURITY AND FRESHNESS OF THE FRUIT TAKES PRECEDENCE OVER STRENGTH AND CONCENTRATION

92/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 90/100

Château Guiraud 2010 Château Suau 2010 Château de Rayne Vigneau 2010 Château Rieussec 2010 Château Sigalas Rabaud 2010

Pessac-Léognan A.C. (white wines) 99/100 98/100 96/100 95/100 93/100 93/100 92/100 92/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 90/100 88/100

Domaine de Chevalier 2010 Château Carbonnieux 2010 Château Fieuzal 2010 Château Smith Ht Lafite 2010 Château Haut-Brion blanc 2010 Château Olivier 2010 Château Latour Martillac 2010 Château Pape Clément 2010 Château la Mission Haut Brion blanc 2010 Château Malartic La Gravière blanc 2010 Ch Bouscaut 2010 Ch Couhins Lurton 2010 La Clarté de Haut-Brion 2010

Pessac-Léognan A.C. (red wines) 98/100 97/100 95/100 94/100 94/100 93/100 92/100 92/100

Château Fieuzal 2010 Château Haut Brion 2010 Château La Mission Haut Brion 2010 Château Smith Haut Lafite 2010 Château Haut Bailly 20210 Château Couhins 2010 Domaine de Chevalier 2010 Château Pape Clément 2010

Bordeaux primeurs 2010: Gilbert & Gaillard’s picks

92/100 91/100 90/100 90/100 90/100 89/100 89/100 88/100

Château Carbonnieux 2010 Le Clarence de Haut Brion 2010 Château Olivier 2010 Château Malartic Lagravière 2010 Château Bouscaut 2010 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2010 Château Couhins Lurton 2010 Château Latour Martillac 2010

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1er Grand Cru Classé A) 96-97 /100 Cheval Blanc 2010

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (1ers Grands Crus Classés B) 98/100 98/100 96/100 95/100 95/100 95/100 94/100 93/100 93/100 92/100 91/100 90/100

Château Figeac 2010 Château La Gaffelière 2010 Clos Fourtet 2010 Château Belair Monange 2010 Château Pavie Macquin 2010 Château Beauséjour 2010 Château Canon 2010 Château Magdelaine 2010 Château Pavie 2010 Petit Cheval 2010 Château Trottevieille 2010 Château Beauséjour Bécot 2010

Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. (Grands Crus Classés) 95/100 95/100 95/100 95/100 94/100 94/100 94/100 93/100 93/100 93/100 92/100 92/100 92/100 92/100 92/100 92/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 91/100 89/100 89/100 89/100 89/100

Château Grandes Murailles 2010 Château Larcis Ducasse 2010 Château Moulin du Cadet 2010 Château Soutard 2010 Château Grand Corbin 2010 Château Fonroque 2010 Château Grand Pontet 2010 Château Bellefont Belcier 2010 Château Monbousquet 2010 Château Fonplégade 2010 Château Grand Corbin Despagne 2010 Couvent des Jacobins 2010 Château Franc Mayne 2010 Château Laroque 2010 Château Haut Corbin 2010 Château La Tour du Pin 2010 Château Grand Corbin 2010 Château Bergat 2010 Château Le Prieuré 2010 Château La Dominique 2010 Château Pavie Decesse 2010 Château Ballestard La Tonnelle 2010 Château Villemaurine 2010 Château Larmande 2010 Château Chauvin 2010 Château Corbin Michotte 2010 Château Faurie de Souchard 2010 Château La Clotte 2010

89/100 88/100 88/100 88/100 88/100 88/100 88/100 87/100 87/100 85/100 84/100

Château La Tour Figeac 2010 Château La Couspaude 2010 Château Yon Figeac 2010 Clos Saint Martin 2010 Château Cadet Piola 2010 Château Cap de Mourlin 2010 Château La Serre 2010 Château Guadet 2010 Château Dassault 2010 Château Laroze 2010 Château Petit Faurie de Soutard 2010

Pomerol A .C. 93/100 93/100 92/100 92/100 92/100 91/100 90/100 90/100 90/100 88/100

Château La Grave 2010 Château Latour (Pomerol) 2010 Château Hosanna 2010 Château Lafleur Gazin 2010 Château Providence Pomerol 2010 Château Plince 2010 Château La Fleur Petrus 2010 Château Trotanoy 2010 Château Certan de May 2010 Château Bourgneuf 2010

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Premium Italian wines prove their excellence

We take a closer look at the treasures of Piedmont and Tuscany.

THE MARCHESI DI BAROLO VINEYARD IN THE BAROLO WINEGROWING REGION IN PIEDMONT 24

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n his 1933 book entitled Wines, the

flavours of soil and truffle. Barolo wines that are aged for more

American author Julian Street dedica-

than five years are labelled Riserva.

ted 73 pages to France and only 10

pages to Italy. Premium Italian wines that are

Barbaresco wines, also made from Nebbiolo and matured for

today known around the world - for exam-

two years (including one year in barrels), are produced in

ple, Barbaresco - are not even mentioned.

Neive, Treiso, Barbaresco and Alba. The regulations specify that

Italian wines, according to Julian Street, are characterised “by

at the time it is put on the market, the wine must be garnet red,

quantity rather than quality. Compared to French wines, they

with an intense, distinctive bouquet and a dry, full and

are coarse.” At the time, despite the country’s 400 grape varie-

balanced taste. Barbaresco Reserve must be put on the market

ties, Italian winemaking was not highly regarded. The

from 1 January on the fifth year after harvest. Taking into

supremacy of French wines would long remain unshakeable.

account the features of the terroir, including its ideal soil,

Delphine Veissière

everything is in conjunction to make DOCG Barolo and However, over the years, by producing wines of distinctive style

Barbaresco wines truly poetic.

and superb quality, the reputation of certain Italian winemakers, such as Angelo Gaja in Piedmont, began to gain ground. During the 1970s, appellations such as Barbaresco and Barolo began to appear on the wine lists of fine restaurants around the world, alongside Bordeaux cru classés and Burgundy grand crus.

The Piedmont wines of DOCG Barbaresco and Barolo are made from Nebbiolo, a superior local variety in the style of the best Pinot Noirs from Burgundy. In terms of recent vintages, 2007 was a hot year with an early harvest, but 2008 was cooler,

Yet not all fine Italian wines are made exclusively from Nebbiolo. Italy has also long produced vins de garde, a tradition dating back several centuries in Tuscany. This winemaking region cultivates another superior local variety, Sangiovese. Since 1300, Tuscan families such as the Antinoris and the Frescobaldis have been producing wine. In 1716, Cosimo III of the Medici family, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued a decree creating the first appellations, defining the geographic boundaries of the winegrowing regions and outlining the production rules for the wines of Chianti, Pomino, Carmignano and Valdarno di Sopra.

allowing late ripening and a perfectly balanced grape with excellent ageing potential due to its level of tannins and its high acidity.

The internationally famous village of Montalcino is the most well-known appellation in Italian winemaking. This old Etruscan

If 2008 is an excellent vintage for Barolo wines, 2010 can be

village is perched on a 567-metre hill and surrounded by a pine

described as exceptional. Last year, the grapes ripened very

forest. Brunello di Montalcino wine, made exclusively from

slowly, and short spells of high temperatures caused the

Sangiovese grapes, is from here. Not far away, at an altitude of

Nebbiolo grapes, which are naturally late-ripening, to protect

605 metres, the Estrucan village of Montepulciano rises above

themselves against the heat by developing large amounts of

the Chiana Valley. This is another production site for premium

antioxidant tannins and a high level of acidity.

wines made from Sangiovese, locally named Prugnolo Gentile (“kind plum”), and blended with other local varieties

INTENSE AND COMPLEX

(Canaiolo and Colorino). Nobile di Montepulciano is the

Barolo, matured for a minimum of three years (including two

appellation’s most prestigious wine, in contrast to Rosso di

years in barrels), can be produced in the 11 village districts that

Montepulciano, which, like Rosso di Montalcino, is a mid-

make up the appellation, located southwest of the town of Alba.

range wine.

Its wines are typically garnet red with orange highlights. They are powerful and complex, with a range of aromas initially of

FLESHY AND FRUITY

red fruits (especially cherry) that are mouthfilling and perfectly

Rosso di Montalcino is a fruity yet fresh wine with good structure

balanced, while austere. In older vintages, they lean towards

and smooth tannins. Although it is pleasant, it lacks the

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SUMMER 2011

COVER STORY

complexity and elegance of Brunello made from Sangiovese. It

acidity and tannins and a high level of alcohol, alongside good

often pairs well with poultry, game and aged cheese. Rosso di

structure and length.

Montepulciano is distinctive for its marked floral nose. It is good quality and can be enjoyed young.

Unlike the Nebbiolo wines of Piedmont, which are austere and extremely elegant, Sangiovese wines are big and distinctive.

The 2006 vintage is often considered excellent, as compared to

Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks, and maturation

2007 and 2008, which were of variable quality - not all the

takes place in barrels from Allier in France or Slavonia in

wines of those vintages were able to claim the Nobile or

Croatia. The naturally high tannin content of Sangiovese

Brunello appellation (according to whether they are from

requires a period in oak, which, depending on its origin, is

Montepulciano or Montalcino). The Tuscan wines of 2010

more or less neutral in terms of its impact on the aroma and

benefited from a cool summer that meant the harvest took

flavour of the wine. Oak from Slavonia is often used for high-

place in the middle of October, allowing the Sangiovese grapes

volume casks and has a more obvious influence than French

time to ripen fully and giving rise to fleshy, fruity and intense

oak, which provides smooth, round flavours. Opting for one or

wines with good ageing potential.

the other is purely a production decision rather than a financial one, as their prices are similar.

Sangiovese is the most widespread and the most cultivated variety in Italy. In geographic areas with cool nights and hot

POWERFUL AND TANNIC

days, it can result in premium wines. It ripens late and is usually

When Pope Gregory XI moved the Holy See from Avignon to

harvested at the end of September or beginning of October.

Rome, the Avignonesi family (literally, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;family from

Sangiovese wines are ruby red, concentrated and have a big

Avignonâ&#x20AC;?) followed, settling in Siena and Montepulciano. The

personality. They are fruity (especially plum and black cherry)

Avignonesis were landowners and devoted part of their land to

and have a floral nose of violets. There is a good balance of

cultivating vineyards. In 2007, Virginie Saverys, a Belgian

IN 2007, VIRGINIE SAVERYS BECAME THE OWNER OF THE 114-HECTARE ESTATE AVIGNONESI 26

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Premium Italian wines prove their excellence

Some 20 kilometres from Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino fully realised its pedigree with the 2005 and 2006 vintages from the Poggio di Sotto estate (leaving aside a potentially good vintage for 2008, which is still maturing). The 2010 vintage (98/100) approaches perfection. It benefits from a year in

which the summer was cool, pushing the beginning of the

AT POGGIO DI SOTTO, SEVEN PARCELS OF VINES ARE PRODUCED SEPARATELY ON A SMALL SCALE

businesswoman from the shipbuilding sector who fell in love with Tuscany, became the owner of the 114-hectare estate. Since 2008 she has been making dramatic changes, converting to biodynamic cultivation, as well as implementing different production methods, for example, using oak to mature the estate’s Nobile wines. The 2010 vintage promises to be a powerful, ©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

tannic yet fresh Nobile. The 2010 I Poggetti Alberello Sangiovese (96/100) opens with fruit, and is tannic, concentrated, fresh and smoothly elegant. The nearby Boscarelli estate offers a 2006 Nobile di Montepulciano that is powerful and elegant, the product of a hot year that was difficult for grapevines, but here gives rise to a classically elegant wine combining a nose of tobacco, red fruit and menthol and a peppery, tannic and fresh palate, that should ideally be enjoyed after 4-7 years of ageing.

SINCE 2006, MARCHESI DI BAROLO IS UNDER THE DIRECTION OF ERNESTO AND ANNA ABBONA GILBERT & GAILLARD

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COVER STORY

ELEGANT AND NOBLE

hints of violet, and has the flavour of crisp, fresh fruit pulp. The

The premium Barolo and Barbaresco wines made by Angelo

quality of its tannins and its depth also give it length. At Poggio

Gaja, Pio Cesare and Marchesi di Barolo (a famous name in the

di Sotto, seven parcels of vines are produced separately on a

history of Piedmont winemaking) are well known. However,

small scale (microvinification). The harvesters pass through the

the Bruno Giacosa winery, although often mentioned, remains

vines several times during the harvest to select the grapes at

an outsider, representative of modern winemaking that lacks a

their ideal ripeness. The wines are made exclusively from

real signature, but is nonetheless an excellent expression of its

Sangiovese, and their olfactory and taste qualities develop

terroir. As Angelo Gaja likes to say, “The perfect wine doesn’t

during maturation, which determine if it is designated Rosso di

exist. Wines have to be worked on because nature is imperfect.”

Montalcino for a minor year (for example, 2007) or Brunello

Every wine is subject to two major factors that determine its

for a good year. Not far from here, the Il Maronetto estate,

quality and ageing potential: the level of tannins and the level

managed by Alessandro Mori, has a 2006 Brunello di

of acidity. Barolo and Barbaresco are not cheap wines. Some 80

Montalcino (95/100) that is full-bodied, has a big personality,

per cent of the appellations’ wines are made by small winemakers.

and is matured exclusively in oak barrels from Slovenia.

Only 20 per cent of the harvest goes to cooperative wineries.

harvest back to 15 October. It has a nose of fresh fruit, with

ANGELO GAJA: “THE PERFECT WINE DOESN’T EXIST. WINES HAVE TO BE WORKED ON BECAUSE NATURE IS IMPERFECT” 28

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SUMMER 2011

Premium Italian wines prove their excellence

OUR PICKS Here are our scores for the Tuscan and Piedmont wines we tasted in May, as well as our reviews of the two 2010 wines that we liked best:

98/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2010*

PIO BOFFA IS THE FOURTH GENERATION WINEMAKER OF PIO CESARE

The Gaja winery has an exceptional 2008 Sori San Lorenzo Barbaresco (97/100) centred on a nose of fresh red fruits (strawberry and cherry) and a well-balanced palate characterised by rounded tannins and acidity, in addition to good concentration, structure and length. The Pio Cesare winery has a 2007 Barolo Ornata (96/100) of distinctive excellence. It is smooth and has great depth thanks to the majority of its maturation being carried out in old French oak barrels. The Marchesi di Barolo winery has a 2008 Barolo Sarmassa that also promises to be elegant. In both Tuscany and Piedmont, the wines of 2010 look set to be balanced and deep, concentrated on fresh red fruit pulp, with the menthol and balsamic notes typical of fine Italian wines. Make sure you don’t miss out when they are available for sale. By Delphine Veissière

continued on page 30

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98/100 - Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2010* The typical opening of fresh fruit that characterises Poggio di Sotto wines is even more apparent in the winery’s future 2010 Brunello. The impact of oak is minimal, leaving fruit and freshness to dominate this vintage. The wine is well balanced, elegant, persistent and tannic. The late harvest resulted in minimal development of the premature aromas of soil and dried plum that can naturally occur in Sangiovese grapes, in favour of aromas of cherry and violets that tend to become masked as the wine matures. Mouthfilling, silky and fresh, this wine is concentrated around red fruit pulp, with hints of sweet spices, liquorice and soft caramel.

96/100 - Avignonesi Sangiovese Alberello Poggetti 2010* The austere and discreet initial aromas of the 2010 vintage open up to an enticing fruity fragrance with a touch of acidity and black pepper. The intensity and the strength contrast each other on the palate, giving way to structure and concentrated fruit with a strong tannic element. The 2010 vintage is set to become a classic; it is likely to be one of the winery’s best. Its complexity can already be sensed, as well as its balance - the almost tactile intensity and strength of Sangiovese is perfectly controlled by its maturation in oak barrels.

TUSCANY 82/100 84/100 85/100 85/100 86/100 86/100 87/100 89/100 89/100 89/100 89/100 91/100 92/100 96/100 87/100 90/100 90/100 91/100 85/100 87/100 88/100 89/100 90/100 92/100

Avignonesi Merlot Tradizionale 2010* Avignonesi Cortona Il Mazzocco 2009 Avignonesi Desiderio 2007 Avignonesi Merlot Alberello 2010* Avignonesi Cortona Il Mazzocco 2009 Avignonesi 50-50 2005 Avignonesi Nobile di Montepulciano 2008 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano 2009 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano 2010* Avignonesi Riserva grande annate 2006 Avignonesi Cabernet Sauvignon Alberello 2010* Avignonesi Sangiovese Alberello Capezzine 2010* Avignonesi Sangiovese Tradizionale 2010* Avignonesi Sangiovese Alberello Poggetti 2010* Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2010* Biondi Santi Riserva 2010* Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2008* Biondi Santi Riserva 2008* Boscarelli IGT 2006 Boscarelli De Ferrari 2009 Boscarelli “Prugnolo” 2009 Boscarelli Nocio 2006 Boscarelli Nobile di Montepulciano 2008 Boscarelli Riserva 2006

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94/100 Boscarelli Nobile di Montepulciano 2006 94/100 Boscarelli Nocio 2007 92/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle grazie 2006 93/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2004 94/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle grazie 2005 94/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 1995 95/100 Il marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2006 88/100 Poggio di Sotto rosso di Montalcino 2006 90/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2009* 91/100 Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 2007 95/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2005 95/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2006 96/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2008* 97/100 Poggio di Sotto riserva 2005 98/100 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2010*

PIEDMONT 82/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 2008 83/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2007 85/100 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Il Falletto riserva 2007 89/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Faletto 2007 89/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2010* 92/100 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto Le Roche 2010* 89/100 Gaja Sperss 1999 90/100 Gaja Coste Russi 2008 90/100 Gaja Sperss 2007 91/100 Gaja Sori Tildin 2008 93/100 Gaja Barbaresco 2008 93/100 Gaja Conteisa 1996 94/100 Gaja Conteisa 2007 97/100 Gaja Sori San Lorenzo 2008 83/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera 2008 85/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 2009* 85/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 2010* 86/100 Marchesi di Barolo Barbaresco Serragrilli 2008 88/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2009* 89/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2010* 89/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2007 90/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 2010* 90/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 2009* 90/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 2007 92/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi 2008 94/100 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Sarmassa 2008 92/100 Pio Cesare Barbaresco 2007 93/100 Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco 2007 94/100 Pio Cesare Barolo 2007 96/100 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornata 2007 * En primeur

COVER STORY

THE BEST OF WHAT MIGHT BE: A Taste of the Top American Wines from 2010 “PRIMEUR”? WHAT? It is nearly impossible to translate the concept of the primeur tasting for American winemakers. While the illuminati of the wine world - journalists and négociants descend upon Bordeaux each spring to assess the vintage just past, winemakers in the United States are content to let their wines develop in peace. This attitude includes American producers whose wines are considered peers of the elites of Bordeaux. Of course, they all know what happens in Bordeaux every year, they simply don’t understand why anyone would try to judge a wine (especially very expensive wines) before it has even been blended. Indeed, the whole idea just seems crazy. Jamal Rayyis

BUT THE WINES AREN’T READY Sampling the best American wines made in 2010 proved to be a challenge. Most requests were met with polite disbelief. More than one winemaker said that many of the lots they expected to use in their final blends were still undergoing malolactic fermentation. One winery located in New York State’s cool climate Finger Lakes region reported that some tanks of their exemplary Riesling were still undergoing primary fermentation. In other words, wines from the 2010 vintage are nowhere near bottling.

THE GRAND DELUSION Do things move more slowly in the American rather than Bordeaux cellars? Obviously not. Indeed, the same phenomenon of unfinished, unblended wines exists in the great cellars of the Médoc and the Libournais as well. Yet, due to tradition (or more accurately, the demands of speculators), chai masters are obliged to show something of the previous vintage. How else could the prophets of the wine world make pronouncements about where investors should be directing their euros/dollars/rubles/yuans? Before anyone knocks on cellar doors, barrels are tasted in advance. Those that are the most advanced and seductive examples of the previous vintage are isolated, and only then presented to the arbitrators of taste. It doesn’t matter that the wine Château X presents during primeur might not ever go into a future bottle

BY JAMAL RAYYIS

FROM ALL THE WINES SAMPLED, THESE WERE THE BEST OF THE BEST GILBERT & GAILLARD

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COVER STORY

these same winemakers emphasized that such tastings are purely for information, not critical comment.

Through persistence on my part, and the cooperation of a few winemakers, I managed to make an assessment based on three factors: 1) past experience with the wines, having tasted previous vintages of each several times; 2) an actual tasting of the 2010 barrel samples of the wines 3) an attempt at regional and varietal diversity.

CALIFORNIA'S NAPA VALLEY IS CONSIDERED ONE OF THE TOP WINE REGIONS IN THE UNITED STATES labelled ”Château X”. Rather, the point is to create excitement and cash flow into the château’s accounts. It’s a grand delusion, perhaps not on the same order of the shenanigans of financiers in the last few years, but it’s a confidence game nonetheless. (There’s good reason, therefore, why the greatest customers for these primeur wines are these same financiers.) American wine makers need cash flow just like the Bordelais, but there is no expectation to prove their wines’ worth before they are even assembled. As a result, there are no primeurs, there are no grand proclamations about 2010 being the vintage of the century, and there isn’t even, it might be accurately said, a 2010 wine that most great producers are yet willing to call their own. All this leaves the humble wine critic in a troubling position: how to assess not only the 2010 vintage in the United States (a task as difficult as commenting on French wines - from Alsace to Provence to Bordeaux - in general), but also, how to pick the year’s best wines?

In alphabetical order, my choices for the 2010 vintage are: • Brick House Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge Appellation Willamette Valley, Oregon • Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California • Hermann J. Wiemer Magdalena Vineyard Dry Riesling Finger Lakes, New York State • Kongsgaard The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, California • Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains, California Are these absolutely the best five American wines produced in 2010? Honestly, it is too early to tell. But I am fully confident that any one of the five could be in the top category.

A FEW NOTES ON THE 2010 VINTAGE THE YEAR IN GENERAL The United States is a huge country, nearly as large as Europe itself, and, though not widely known, wine is made in all fifty states. There is an abundance of terrains, microclimates and terroirs. Some of California’s great wine regions - Napa, Sonoma, the Santa Cruz Mountains - faced challenges in 2010. Temperatures in the spring were cooler than normal, with bud break arriving only toward late April - a month later than usual - in some cooler, high-elevation vineyards. Persistent rain and lower temperatures continued until July. To facilitate grape ripening, many viticulturalists stripped leaves from vines. But, when temperatures soared to up to 40 degrees Celsius or higher, grapes were left unprotected from the sun, cooking many on the vine. The heat lasted through much of September, interrupted by rain in the first half of October, just when harvests were expected. Those who picked before the rains reported a good, if not exceptional crop. Those who were caught in the rains suffered, and a few who waited until the rains stopped were well-rewarded, provided they had experience with “difficult” harvests (which are admittedly unusual in California).

RESOLUTION My connections at top wineries in California, Oregon, Washington, and New York State (which comprise 98% of American wine production) could certainly get me near some barrels of 2010 wines (though not all, since some wineries explicitly forbid critics to taste from barrel). And winemakers are generous enough to dip their pipettes into barrels to offer a taste. But every one of

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SUMMER 2011

Despite the heat spikes in September, many people reported that 2010 was among the coolest vintages in the past few decades, and a hard selection of grapes was needed in the winery. As expected for a cooler vintage, alcohol levels were lower than usual, and acidity levels were higher. So, too, were tannin, and in many cases, colour-based phenolics. The best red wines from California are

The Best of What Might Be: A Taste of the Top American Wines from 2010

darker than usual. Cool summer conditions extended north into the wine regions of Oregon and Washington. Though it got warmer in September, into October, neither the Willamette or Columbia Valleys suffered the same heat stroke as California. For Pacific Northwest winemakers, growing season was one of the longest on record, up to 115 days or more compared to the usual 100 days. Vineyard yields were lower than usual, as were average alcohol levels. But aromatics and colour were higher. In contrast, producers in New York’s Finger Lakes region, some 4000 kilometers across the country, reported conditions that were notably different, with warm, clement conditions from spring through the summer. The biggest problem was intense rain that came at the end of September, which damaged some Riesling and brought on some rot. Grapes harvested before the rains showed higher acid levels. Grapes picked after vineyards dried a couple of weeks after the rains showed greater concentration and complexity of flavours, but were somewhat lower in acidity.

total, and is farmed biodynamically. Seeking a more solaced life after covering war in Lebanon and inspired by vineyards in France winemaker/owner, Doug Tunnell planted his first vines in 1990. He went organic from the start. The first plantations were of ungrafted Pinot Noir, Pommard clone. Later, Tunnell planted Gamay, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Dijon clones of Pinot Noir. Formerly a foreign correspondent for the American television network CBS, Oregon-native Tunnell is a largely self-taught vigneron, though he got good advice from neighbouring winemakers along the way. The wines are made naturally - using indigenous yeasts - and minimal intervention when possible, which given the health of his vines, means that processes such as chapitalisation and acidification are rare. Brick House releases four cuvées of Pinot Noir: Boulder Rock, Les Dijonnais, Evelyn’s, and Cuvée du Tonnelier.

THE BEST? Selecting the “best” of anything as subjective as wine is a challenge in any circumstances, but doing so from among admittedly unfinished products verges on the hubristic. Still, as a point of comparison against 2010 Bordeaux primeur tastings, the exercise is an interesting one. As mentioned above, most top American winemakers were reluctant to show their 2010 wines at all. Whether the aversion to do so came from modesty or a lack of confidence that wines from the admittedly challenging 2010 vintage would show very well is an open question. Certainly every winemaker I spoke with was quite clear in stating that, oenologically speaking, the wines were simply not ready. Many were still in some phase of fermentation. More than a couple of winemakers added that, sure, they could send samples of especially precocious 2010 wines selected from excellent barrels. But that would have been, in their words, “cheating,” since eventually those wines would be blended with others to form a final assemblage. And, ”what would be the point of that?” they added. Fortunately, some brave souls were either confident enough in their 2010 wines to show samples, or, at least were curious about the parallels with 2010 Bordeaux. From all the wines sampled, these were the best of the best:

Located in the tiny Ribbon Ridge AVA (American Viticultural Area the US equivalent to France’s Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, AOC), Brick House has been making stunning Pinot Noir since the mid-1990’s. The property is modest in size, 16 hectares (40 acres)

BRICK HOUSE CUVÉE DU TONNELIER PINOT NOIR RIBBON RIDGE APPELLATION WILLAMETTE VALLEY, OREGON MORE EXCEPTIONAL WINES TASTED FOR THIS ARTICLE GILBERT & GAILLARD

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COVER STORY

Of these, Tonnelier is considered the most accessible in its youth, though, ironically, it is also considered the longest ageing. The 2010 vintage of Cuvée du Tonnelier was marked for several reasons. First of all, at 12.7 degrees, it records the lowest alcohol yet of any vintage of Tonnelier made. The average alcohol level is 13.5%. Next, it marked Brick House’s longest vintage, 152 days from bud break on April 1, to harvest starting October 16. Despite lower sugar levels, the grapes showed an unusually high level of

finesse from first sniff, with the perfume of just-cut herbs, especially thyme and marjoram. These are followed by brambly aromas of wild berries, including raspberries and blackberries, well as earthy, forest floor elements and hints of dried apricot. Tasting the wine, one is struck by the very fresh, tart, red berry flavors, with hints of flowers, anise, and stone. Indeed, the minerality that shows from the vineyard’s sedimentary soils underlined by clay and limestone is striking. Of course, the sample tasted is only one element of what will become the Cuvée du Tonnelier 2010. The 2009 Cuvée du Tonnelier, just released, shows a family resemblance. Still quite young, the wine will benefit from a few years age. It is seductive nonetheless, with crushed red cherry, fennel seed, marzipan, peppery herb and spice elements throughout. All are contained by mouthwatering acidity and minerality.

DIAMOND CREEK VOLCANIC HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

DIAMOND CREEK VOLCANIC HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY phenolic complexity and anthocyanin content. Concerned about high malic acid in the grapes at harvest, Tunnel fermented his wine with a larger percentage of whole clusters (included stems) than usual. Because of the long hang time, stems and seeds were rather ripe and added fresh aromas of fines herbes rather than just “green” flavours. Befitting of a young wine, the 2010 Cuvée du Tonnelier shows a lovely ruby color with hints of purple. One perceives the wine’s

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Though not one of Napa’s most historic wineries, Diamond Creek Vineyards certainly qualifies as one of its pioneers. Al Brounstein, who made his fortune in pharmaceuticals, founded the winery in 1968 on lands he purchased in a previously unplanted, area high above Napa Valley’s floor. At the time, Napa was largely unknown, and though there were precedents, the notion of mountainside vineyards was not especially appreciated. Almost completely unappreciated was the idea of specific terroirs within a property, climatic and geological. Brounstein’s genius was identifying and isolating from the start, separate vineyards within his property that had specific soil types: gravel for Gravelly Meadow, iron for Red Rock Terrace, and volcanic ash for Volcanic Hill. Though it is no surprise today that wines from each of these vineyards have distinct qualities, the notion was not well appreciated in California at the time, nor, indeed, for at least a couple of more decades. The decision to bottle each vineyard’s wine separately was a statement that terroir really meant something from Napa flying in the face not only terroir-deniers at the all important school of enology at the University of California, Davis, but also to nay-saying critics, especially in France, who asserted that terroir simply couldn’t exist in California. Of course, the notion of terroir doesn’t only include the specifics of vineyard site, but also the type of grape planted there. Just as Burgundy’s terroir is best expressed by Pinot Noir and Pomerol’s by Merlot, Brounstein thought early on that Cabernet Sauvignon was especially suited to the Napa Valley. Diamond Creek, as a result, was the first winery in Napa to dedicate itself to exclusively Cabernet Sauvignon wine. (One caveat: small quantities of Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc are planted at Diamond Creek as well, though the total percent used in no way interferes legally with wines labeled “Cabernet Sauvignon”). Of Diamond Creek’s 28 hectares (70 acres) , nine are planted in vines. Volcanic Hill is the largest (3.2 ha/8 acres) of the property’s

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four vineyards. South facing, it is also the estate’s warmest. That said, Diamond Creek, which runs through the property, creates a natural canyon that sucks in cool air from the Pacific, moderating for all vineyards, heat from Napa Valley, below. Compared to the other vineyards, Volcanic Hill wines are bigger in body and also longer living. It should be said, however, that every of Diamond Creek’s wines are designed for long ageing. Indeed, while all are thrilling to taste when young, that is, after they have been released three years after vintage, they are notably shy wines that demand revisiting after some years. The barrel sample of 2010 Volcanic Hill is notably black. Perhaps its somber though seductive hue is a mask designed to obscure how good the difficult 2010 vintage can be with the proper attention. Swirling the wine, the mask falls, though there is a consistency in the hue of flavours: black fruit, black pepper, smoke. Lightening things up are sweet spices and floral notes. A first taste brings things back to black. There are explosive flavors of blackberries, cassis, then graphite from the volcanic soils. Lacy notes of violet, smoke, and hints of dill follow, with a shot of espresso on the end. As one might expect at this stage, the wine’s tannins are pronounced, but in fact melt in the mouth, cleaned up by fresh acidity.

Admittedly, the choice of an American Riesling as one of the country’s best wines is not obvious. Nor, too, is the choice of a wine from New York State. It surprises many, even New Yorkers, to learn that New York is one of the United State’s great viticulture states. For decades, it was second in wine production to California. Today, it is third, after Washington State (though in some years it regains second place). The majority of New York State wine is made in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York. The microclimates around these lakes moderate what would otherwise be bitterly cold winters. Still a cool region, the Finger Lakes has become recognized in the last decade or so, as being one of the best places in the US to grow cool-climate grapes such as Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is also grown here, as are some more esoteric varieties such as Grüner Veltliner and Rkatsitelli. Hermann J. Wiemer, from several generations of winemakers in Bernkasteller, Germany, arrived in the area in the 1960s. Originally, he worked for the decidedly eccentric though passionate Walter S. Taylor at Bully Hill winery, which championed so-called French-American hybrid grape varieties. While these grapes and some of the wines made from them have their charms, they tend to lack the elegance that a German classicist might seek. Through his own observations, as well as the inspiration from the pioneering Dr. Konstanin Frank (a fine producer as well), Wiemer started moonlighting, planting vitis vinifera grapes in the mid-1970s.

HERMANN J. WIEMER MAGDALENA VINEYARD DRY RIESLING FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK STATE

AN OUTSTANDING WINE FROM HERMANN J. WIEMER Especially important was the Riesling planted on steep vineyards that were reminiscent of Wiemer’s beloved Mosel. His gamble proved successful, which was fortunate since his boss at Bully Hill promptly fired Wiemer for apostasy against the gospel of hybrid grapes. The Magdalena Vineyard is a 10 hectare (24 acre) plot which was planted in 1999 with mixed soil types, ranging from honoeye loam with clay to decomposed granite, all on a bedrock of shale. The vineyards’s slope rises steeply from a grade of five degrees to one of seven. It is the warmest microclimate in the Finger Lakes and offers superb conditions for ripening even in cool vintages. Wiemer’s 2010 Magdalena represents two aspects of the vintage. On the one hand there were grapes picked in late September, before the massive downpour of rain (12 cm in one day). On the other hand were grapes picked after the rains, in the later part of GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

COVER STORY

Though only recently available, the Magdalena 2009 is a treat from the start. Aromas of sweet spice and ripening mango waft from glass upon first swirl along with fine, smoky mineral notes. Tasting the wine offers an initial lushness of sweet fruit, followed by loads of acidity. A lift of green citrus fruit follows, with succulent quetsch plums, green almonds and the subtle perfume of violets. A ribbon of minerals keeps everything together. Another great Riesling.

KONGSGAARD THE JUDGE CHARDONNAY NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

California has its share of great Chardonnay. Admittedly, the stereotype of them, full-bodied, with ripe pineapple and smoky oak flavors, and relaxed acid, is not to everyone’s taste, especially to those who regard white Burgundy as the only model worth considering. The cliché of California Chardonnay ought to be retired. Though still widely produced, the number of vignerons following this paradigm falls with each vintage, driven in part by changing tastes, not the least of which are from winemakers themselves. There is a whole other world of California Chardonnay to consider, one that privileges balance over powerful tropical fruit flavors. Higher, flavour-balancing acidity is a component that has become essential. Usage of oak has been scaled back. One might still find so-called “oak-bombs” but it’s more likely that those flavours come from the use of oak chips rather than indulgence in fine French (or even, Russian, Slovenian, American) oak barrels. In any case, it is the experience of winemakers that can make the difference. Whether this experience comes directly from years on the job, or the collective wisdom of elders that helped a young generation of wine makers avoid the trap of oaky Chard is irrelevant. The importance is balance.

RIDGE VINEYARDS MONTE BELLO SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS October. Grapes from the latter harvest required vigorous sorting in the winery. Typical for fresh Riesling, Magdalena 2010 is pale with green highlights. The wine is still very much alive on first smell. Greengage plum, citrus and pineapple notes are apparent from the start, with flirtatious wafts of anise underpinned by fresh lees. There is a harmony between the nose and mouth, though citrus flavors become more defined with kumquat taking the lead, but also some peach blossom, honey suckle and spice. Despite inspiration from the Mosel, this wine is very much in an Alsatian style, with a hint of residual sugar. There is an impressive delicacy to the wine, with a long, long finish.

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John Kongsgaard might have more experience than any. A fifthgeneration native of Napa Valley, he has experienced the full range of the region’s growth, both directly, or from family history. Kongsgaard didn’t directly come from a winemaking family, though some of his relatives made wine. But his friends and neighbours certainly did, often from grapes raised in Kongsgaard’s own vineyards. As for his own experience, Kongsgaard gained fame for his time at Newton Vineyards, one of the first in Napa to apply biodynamic techniques to viticulture and winemaking. Kongsgaard’s The Judge is made from the Stone Crest Vineyard, planted in the 1970s on a plot of land that John’s grandfather wanted to use as a stone quarry. The wine’s name honours John’s father, who was a Napa country judge. Until 1996, the grapes were sold to some of Napa’s finest wineries. As one would expect from a quarry, the soil is incredibly stony and infertile. Vines have to struggle here to survive and yields are miniscule, under 15 hl/ha (<1 US ton/acre). Understandably, less than 400 cases are made of this wine. The Judge, like other Kongsgaard wines, is made naturally, without intervention. Except for picking and crushing nothing is done to the wine. It ferments naturally with ambient yeasts in new French oak barrels where it undergoes its malolactic fermentation

The Best of What Might Be: A Taste of the Top American Wines from 2010

and remains for about two years. Racked for bottling, the wine remains unfined and unfiltered.

the following decades after the property was purchased in toto by the founding partners of Ridge Vineyards.

The 2010 Kongsgaard wine is very much an unfinished wine, yet it points toward greatness. Already richly coloured, the wine has a yellow-green hue. Its nose is indulgent from the start, without showing any tendency toward overripeness. There is a beautiful creaminess to it, with sweet spice, honey, and light peat notes. In the mouth, the lees are apparent and the wine is discrete, yet reveals a foundation of Seville and Valencia orange flavours, lemon, smoky oak and a thick foundation of minerals. One imagines an exceptional future for this wine.

Located 24 kilometers (15 miles) from the Pacific Ocean, Monte Bello ranges in elevation from 400 to 800 meters (1300 to 2600 feet). Its soils are green soil with clay over a bed of limestone. It truly offers one of California’s most unique terroirs.

Already outstanding but destined for the ages is Kongsgaard’s 2008 The Judge. A bit lighter in colour than the 2010, the aromas are, as one might expect, far more developed, with notes of orange confit, fresh apricot, toasted nuts, and smoky minerals. The flavours are intense and mouth-filling, with lightly caramelised orange, grilled pair, orange zest, yellow plum and toasted hazelnuts in the foreground, and superb levels of both minerals and acidity. After two years in barrel, oak is present, of course, but it appears not as wood, but rather, as some exotic nut. Remarkable as this wine is upon first tasting, it got better after five days of tasting. The wine not only retained its freshness but positively came alive, with fresh squeezes of citrus and sprinkles of mineral.

RIDGE VINEYARDS MONTE BELLO SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS, CALIFORNIA In the pantheon of great wines, there is no real hierarchy. One has his or her preferences, dependent on time and place, of course, but in the end, one simply has to acknowledge that great is great, period. Of course, some wines present a special resonance that one cannot help but recognise as astonishing. Ridge Monte Bello is simply one of those wines. Founded in the early-1960’s, Ridge Vineyards has been acknowledged as as one of California’s greatest wine producers since the 1970’s. It was early in its recognition of great vineyard sites, both in the Santa Cruz Mountains where it is based, some 100 kilometers south of San Francisco, in Sonoma County, almost an equal distance to the north. Moreover, while Ridge makes great singlevariety wines, it adheres to a European sensibility that blends can create the most interesting wines. Bridging the gap between a European tradition of labeling according to terroir and the American preference for varietal labeling, Ridge does both, stating the name of its vineyards in bold letters, and clearly indicating its wine’s composition in precise percentages on the front label. Ridge’s home vineyard is Monte Bello, a 50 hectare (125 acre) plot in the cool-climate northern foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The vineyard was first planted in 1885. It was first planted with Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1940’s, with subsequent plantings of other Bordeaux grape varieties and Chardonnay over

That said, Ridge faced challenges other Californians did in 2010. Ridge’s chief winemaker Paul Draper reports that 2010 was the coldest he ever experienced at Monte Bello. There were fears that the grapes might not ripen enough to be classified as Monte Bello. Yet, experience with cool-climate viticulture gave Ridge viticulturalists some advantages over others most accustomed to dealing with heat. The first two weeks of October yielded a beautiful Indian summer, warm and dry. When harvest was made, Draper and his team found what he described as some of the healthiest, richest grapes he had ever seen in terms of phenolics, colour, and tannins. Sugar levels were just the slightest bit lower than normal, though total alcohol was 13.5 degrees, low for most California Cabernet these days, but normal for Ridge.

AND, HOW DOES IT TASTE? Remarkably complete. It’s true that Ridge offered its final assemblage for this tasting, but even so, everything was in balance. Its colour resembled brilliant black cherries, an indication of what was to come in the nose, with simply explosive black cherry, marzipan, and black peppercorns. The palate was a mouth-watering combination of fresh-crushed red and black berries, cherries and fine black pepper. A ribbon of minerality extended through the wine, woven with spiced black tea and balanced by terrific acidity. The structure was perfect, with firm tannins. Draper has compared 2010 with the less cool but similar 2005 vintage. Tasting the 2005 Monte Bello, one hopes he is correct. Its appearance is dark, with brick-like hues that come from age. On the nose one perceives dry cherries, dark chocolate, mint, pepper, leather and some tree sap. The mouth tastes fresher than the nose, full of violet, black cherry and blueberry flavours, fine pepper, lavender, and lashes of minerals. The wine is superbly balanced.

FINAL WORDS It has often been remarked that from difficult vintages come the most remarkable wines. This adage has certainly been proven by the wines tasted. There will of course be other great wines from the United States in 2010. Solicited wineries in Washington State and the Walla Walla region of Oregon declined to offer their 2010 wines for evaluation, though a few kindly offered examples of finished wines from 2008. They were stunning. Of particular interest is the Quilceda Creek’s luscious Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cayuse Vineyards stunning Syrahs, including Bionic Frog 2008, and Cailloux Vineyard 2008. It will be more than a pleasure to see how things turn out for them in 2010.

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Bordeaux THE KEYS TO SUCCESS An in-depth look at France's largest wine region and what makes it so special BY NICOLLE CROFT

sk any wine consumer the name of a wine region and chances are they will say Bordeaux. This might have something to do with the region's size, the early recognition of its natural factors giving it a long history of winemaking, its port (making export easy) and its unique châteaux concept where wines produced within a single estate are bottled. continued on page 40

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FRANCE

HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

Bordeaux is the largest wine region in France covering 117,500 hectares with 60 appellations producing a range of styles with a predominance of red wines. Although it has 10,000 different châteaux, it is the 250 or so top wines, the Grand Crus, that are renowned throughout the world and fetch high prices. If pressed to define an overall style, we might say that Bordeaux wines are known for their elegance and finesse. What gives them their notoriety and makes Bordeaux such a major player today?

LOCATION

The climate in Bordeaux is temperate due to the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean which brings the warm Gulf Stream direct from the Caribbean to its golden sandy shores and inland via its rivers. The majestic Gironde River slices the vast region in two creating what are called the Right (St Emilion, Fronsac, Pomerol) and Left Banks (Médoc, Graves & Sauternes) splitting above Bordeaux into the Dordogne and the Garonne via the large port of Bordeaux. A broad band of pine trees were planted at the beginning of the 19th century under the instructions of Napoleon III; they act as a protective screen against winds and storms and help to regulate temperatures. Winters are mild and wet, normally providing water for use by the vines during the long, dry summers that stretch into autumnal “Indian Summers”. The oceanic climate remains fickle however, and autumn rain can badly affect the quality of the harvest. It is this temperate climate that enables a degree of acidity to be maintained within the grapes, even at perfect ripeness, giving Bordeaux wines their signature freshness and finesse.

HISTORY It was not until the Middle Ages that Bordeaux became the commercial reference for wines that we know today, with the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152 to Henri Plantagenet, the future king of England. Thousands of tonneaux of fine, light wines (known as claret, clairet being ‘light’ in French) were exported to England for over 300 years. It was within the second golden era for Bordeaux, at the end of the 18th century, with the colonisation of the islands of America, that the concept of châteaux was developed and the wine from a single domaine was bottled and marketed. It started a fashion for the fine wines of Bordeaux. It was not until the mid-17th century that the marshes of the Médoc were drained by the Dutch and the estates of the Médoc were planted. Throughout the history of the vine and winemaking, Bordeaux has played a significant role. It has helped to find solutions for various crisis that struck the vineyards in Europe, such as mildew. It was Ulysse Ribéreau-Gayon at the University of Bordeaux - former assistant to Louis Pasteur - who found the solution in the bouillie Bordelaise, a mixture of copper sulphate and lime.

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Bordeaux lies on the 45th parallel, mid-way between the North Pole and the equator in the Northern hemisphere. As it lies to the north of many other wine-producing regions, ripeness can be achieved earlier here than in vineyards to its south. Grapes can be harvested earlier with lower sugar levels, producing wines with lower alcohol levels.

THE ALLUVIAL GRAVEL MAKES UP THE FAMOUS GRAVEL CROUPS In fact Bordeaux is the birthplace of oenology, the science of winemaking. It was Ribéreau-Gayon’s grandson Jean who created the world's first Institute of Oenology at Bordeaux University in 1949 and who discovered, with Emile Peynaud, malolactic fermentation. They developed the techniques of modern winemaking. This work continues at the Faculty of Oenology of Bordeaux, today based at the ultra-modern Institute of the Science of the Vine and Wine (ISVV).

CLASSIFICATION OF THE VINEYARDS Napoleon III wanted the great wines of Bordeaux to be part of the showcase of the best France had to offer and in 1855 he organised the Exposition Universelle de Paris. He asked brokers based in Bordeaux to draw up a list of the top estates. They sensibly used price as their basis and selected sixty or so of the most expensive red wines from the Médoc (and Château Haut Brion from the Graves) and categorized them into a five-tier classification of growths. They also included twenty or so of the sweet white wines of Sauternes which were divided into a two-tier classification. The lesser-known regions at the time, such as Fronsac, St Emilion and Pomerol (and the rest of the Graves) were not included. It was not the first classification of the wines of the Médoc (Thomas Jefferson, the American Ambassador to France, had attempted to classify them 68 years previously, in 1787) but it is the 1855 classification that has stuck and still dominates today. Other classifications followed from other wine regions of Bordeaux, though many regions exist happily without a system, such as Pomerol; the static one-tier classification of the Graves Classification in 1959, and the two-tier classification (the Premier Grand Cru Classé and Grand Cru Classé) of the St Emilion Classification in 1955, which is, somewhat controversially, reviewed every ten years.

Bordeaux: the keys to success

BORDEAUX IS THE LARGEST WINE REGION IN FRANCE COVERING 117,500 HECTARES WITH 60 APPELLATIONS PRODUCING A RANGE OF STYLES WITH A PREDOMINANCE OF RED WINES GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

BORDEAUX WINES WERE ALWAYS AGED IN BARRELS UNTIL THE DEVELOPMENT OF BOTTLING AT THE CHATEAU IN THE 20TH CENTURY THE TERROIRS The vineyards of Bordeaux are planted on relatively flat land in a number of different soil types such as clay, sand, gravel and limestone. The mother rock of the region was laid down in the Tertiary period (over 2 million years ago) and became overlaid by clay, sands from the Landes area to the south and by deposits of gravel in elevated areas brought by the Garonne River, mostly from the Pyrenees and in some areas from the Massif Central. The most ideally suited soils for vine growing are those that are well-drained and infertile, allowing an arrêt de croissance (the moment when the vine switches from nourishing its foliage to nourishing its fruit - essential in the development of quality grapes).

million years ago. It is this stone that underlies the plateau of St Emilion. This beautiful honey-coloured stone, the Pierre de Bordeaux, was heavily quarried to make many of the facades in the city and which today leaves kilometers of tunnels under the medieval town. The vines' shallow roots grow in a sandy loam soil which sits on the top of this stone; they are unable to penetrate this compacted stone but do not suffer as they receive a steady supply of water sucked upwards from the water table through the porous stone via capillary action. The second major type of soil is the alluvial gravel that was laid down more recently in the Quartenaire period (less than 2 million years ago), made up of deep, coarse-textured gravels. They make up the famous gravel croups found on elevations in the Haut Médoc, Graves, Sauternes, Pomerol and Western St Emilion. They are well-drained andaerated, and enable deep penetration of the vines' roots.

Generally the cooler, clayey soils (predominantly found on the Right bank but also found elsewhere) suit the Merlot, and the warmer, free-draining gravel (predominantly on the Left bank but also found in pockets on the Right) suits Cabernet Sauvignon.

GRAPE VARIETIES

There are two main types of “super” soil in Bordeaux that produce the finest wines. The oldest type of soil is the compacted hard asteries limestone which dates back to the Tertiary period some 50

Bordeaux’s grape varieties are well-known and have been exported all over the world. The red and white wines of Bordeaux are made from a blend of different varieties. This is partly explained by the changeable climate. Having a number of different varieties acts as continued on page 44

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Bordeaux: the keys to success

HOW DO YOU DEFINE YOUR TERROIR ?

Cantenac is a vin d’assemblage and there is much work to marry these different wines from different terroirs. But it is this that gives the wine its complexity.” Henri Lurton started working on the estate in 1986 and over the years has come to know his different terroirs intimately. “During harvest in 2006, we had a down-pour and I knew that due to the excellent drainage on the gravel plateau in front of the Château, I could leave picking the grapes for a couple of days and tend to more urgent plots!” The four main types of terroir include: The Plateau of Brane: 30 hectares of a high mound of Graves Garonnaises, 22 metres at its summit. It has a high percentage of clay which ensures that vines have access to water during dry periods “drop by drop”. The water table is very low at 5 - 6 metres. Behind the Château: 15 hectares of more recent gravels and sands Notton: 13 hectares of deep gravels of the Quaternary period of 6 metres depth La Verdotte: 10 hectares of sand and gravels with some iron subsoils

Terroir is one of the main factors of why one wine tastes different from another. It is the blueprint, the starting point. Terroir is what gives the grapes their uniqueness, which in turn defines the wine’s style. It is not just the soil but the whole vine environment, including its micro-climate and its setting.

COMTE ERIC D’ARAMON, CHÂTEAU FIGEAC, PRÉMIER CRU CLASSÉ ST EMILION

refine the choice of grape variety, its clone and rootstock, to the soil and the micro-climate” stresses Philibert Perrin, Château Carbonnieux owner with his brother Eric. “It is not just about soil, we have found that the whites benefit from the coolness brought by their proximity to the woods on the estate.” Cabernet Sauvignon is well-suited to the large gravel, Merlot to the fine Eric Perrin gravel and clay, and the clayey limestone soils suit the white varieties of Sémillon and Sauvignon. GILBERT & GAILLARD

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Surface: 75 hectares Production: 150 000 bottles Geology: Deep-lying gravels from the Quaternary period Varieties: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc, 0.5% Carmenère Continuing the research done into the soils of the property by Professor Seguin at the University of Bordeaux and by his father Lucien, Henri Lurton commissioned his own geological map of the vineyards of BraneCantenac in 2003 by Pierre Viaud. It identified the 75-hectare vineyard as divided into four main soil types producing very different wines. As owner Henri Lurton says “Brane-

HENRI LURTON, CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC, 2EME CRU CLASSÉ, MAUGAUX

Geology: Deep gravel on slopes Red Vineyard Surface : 50 hectares Production: 200 000 bottles Red Varieties: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and Carmenère White Vineyard Surface: 42 hectares Production: 180 000 bottles White Varieties: 65% Sémillon, 35% Sauvignon Founded by Benedictine monks in the 13th century, vines have been grown on this terroir for over seven centuries. The extraordinary variety of its terroir means that it is well suited to both the red and white varieties of Bordeaux and was amongst only six out of the 16 estates classified in 1959. The property is located on a gravel outcrop deposited by the Garonne river, brought from the Pyrenees during the Quaternary era. It overlies the older substratum of limestone (from the Tertiary era) which shows through at the base of the mound, having been eroded over thousands of years. It is well-drained and ripens the Philibert Perrin grapes early. “We work continually to

Surface: 40 hectares Production: 100 000 bottles Geology: 3 mounds of gravels Varieties: 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot At the very western end of the appellation on the borders of Pomerol we find the Graves of St-Emilion where gravel soils predominate. The Gunzian graves de feu was brought here by the Dordogne River and by its tributaries, the Isle and Dronne rivers. The gravel originates from the Quaternary period and comes not from the Pyrenees but from the older Massif Central. It is these warm gravels that are well-suited to the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon which is rare in the rest of St Emilion. lt is deposited in five mounds; two in the vineyards of Cheval Blanc, while the remaining three are found at Figeac. They have an altitude of 36 - 38 metres above sea level, and the gravelly soils are generally 7-12 metres deep. As owner Eric d’Aramon says, “When we excavated the soil to build our cellars in the 1970s we saw that the vine roots had dug down several metres to reach the water table.” At Figeac, unlike its neighbours Cheval Blanc, clay combines with the gravel which is particularly well-suited to the Cabernet Franc grape. This unique terroir makes Figeac “a wine of finesse and elegance”, according to d’Aramon.

HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

WHITE VARIETIES 1% of surface of all planted vineyards Semillon: 53% Sauvignon: 38% Muscadelle: 6% Colombard, Chenin, Ugni Blanc and others: 3% Despite competition from new world countries, Bordeaux continues to be a key player in today's wine world. In 2009 it produced a total of 661 million bottles which equates to 3.37 billion euros. Sixty-eight percent of volume is sold in France. The rest (in terms of volume) is exported to Germany, China, Belgium, UK and Japan. In terms of value, Hong Kong is top of the league with the UK, China and Belgium following.

ÂŠ CIVB/PATRICK CRONENBERG

The quality of the wines produced in Bordeaux continues to improve. Over the last two decades it was technological advances in winemaking that made the difference. Today it is in the vineyard that the big changes are taking place as producers undertake research to study their terroirs, analyse their soils regularly and use sustainable practices to enhance soil quality.

MERLOT IS THE MOST WIDELY USED OF THE BORDEAUX VARIETIES a safeguard against the loss of an entire crop of a one variety, as each flowers and is harvested at different times. As a rule of thumb, in the warmer, drier soils of the Right Bank the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon grape predominates, whereas in the wetter, cooler, more clayey soils of the Left Bank, Merlot excels. Of course there are exceptions. In the blend of red wines the Cabernet Sauvignon gives the backbone and tannic structure, the Merlot the flesh and juiciness, and the Cabernet Franc brings aromatics. For the white wines the acidity and freshness comes from the Sauvignon and the Semillon gives the richness on the palate.

RED VARIETIES ÂŠ CIVB

89% of surface of all planted vineyards Merlot: 63% Cabernet Sauvignon: 25% Cabernet Franc: 11% Malbec, Petit Verdot and others : 1%

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SOME ESTATES ARE USING WOODEN VATS AGAIN SUMMER 2011

TRAVEL

FRANCE

Provence A look at the five main rosé wine areas BY JANET EDSFORTH-STONE

he wind howls down your chimney as the snowdrifts pile up under the windows. You pause - swirling the warming red wine around in your glass - and think of that delightful rosé, the perfect accompaniment to a long lunch on a sun-drenched Provençal terrace last summer. You can still hear the music of the cicadas and the laughter of friends and family against the background clink of glasses, porcelain and cutlery. The fragrances of thyme, basil, ripe tomatoes and lamb roasting on a spit. Green and black olives and the amber of their oil, against the dark velvety green of a cypress. And the enticing pale strawberry pink of that rosé, with its fresh, fruity flavours… continued on page 46

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TRAVEL

THE FIVE MAIN ROSÉ WINE AREAS

The rosé wines of Provence, bearing the name of France’s best-

Cabernet Sauvignon adds tannic weight to many cuvées

known region worldwide, account for at least 8% of total

throughout the region.

international rosé production. A good enough invitation to domaines but also its inns, wine bars and restaurants.

COTEAUX DES BAUX DE PROVENCE

Historical sites, cultural events, beauty spots, the beaches

This is the smallest of the five appellations, with just eight

when the heat calls for water. And to start your trip, a promenade

villages and 15 wine domaines in production on both slopes

through the wine regions.

of the Alpilles, grouped around the stunning rock formations

enjoy this delicious region’s hospitality: not just its wine

of Les Baux de Provence village in the Bouches-du-Rhône. The Well over 50% of the total 27,000 hectares under cultivation

soil is mainly chalk-clay, its stony nature providing good

is in rosé and falls for the most part in the Bouches-du-Rhône

drainage.

and Var départements, covering five main appellations. Each has

its own geology and terroirs, while the region’s principal rosé

Production of rosé runs at around 30% of total output. The

grape varieties - Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan and

regional Counoise grape variety may be added in small

Mourvèdre - feature in most but not all of them. The ubiquitous

quantities to the traditional varieties and Cabernet Sauvignon

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SUMMER 2011

TRAVEL

COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE Covering a wide area around the delightful university town of Aix en Provence, the soils here are similar to those of the Les Baux appellation. However, rosé production in this area rises to 55% of total wine output over the 3,500 hectares under cultivation. The grape varieties used are also nearly identical, including the optional addition of small amounts of Counoise. Nearly 50 villages, more than 70 wine domaines and chateaux and some 15 wine co-ops are involved in production. The wines - light, fruity and aromatic - are a perfect accompaniment to fish dishes, in particular nearby Marseille’s famous bouillabaisse.

COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE This region spreads out around Brignoles in the centre of the Var, its western border at St-Maximin la Sainte-Baume. Soils are stony chalk-clay with silex here and there, with a wide variety of mini-terroirs. Some 55% of production on the nearly 2,000 total hectares under cultivation is in rosé. The regional Tibouren grape variety may be added to the traditional varieties and Cabernet Sauvignon for an extra touch of finesse. While Provençal rosés come in a variety of colours ranging from palest pink to deep coral, salmon pink is one of the nuances often seen here. Aromas and flavours run from light

red berry fruit and citrus to spicy, exotic notes.

AN INVITATION TO ENJOY THIS DELICIOUS REGION’S HOSPITALITY

BANDOL Centred on the Mediterranean town of Bandol and spreading inland, this small appellation - some 1,400 hectares, barely 20% of it in rosé - is renowned for its highly successful use of the Mourvèdre grape variety. For the rosés, the two other varieties normally used are Grenache and Cinsault. Mourvèdre finds one of its finest expressions in the chalky marl soils and favourable maritime micro-climate of this appellation. The colour often runs from a medium to deep salmon, with

to contribute an elegant touch. A striking feature of this

aromas and flavours of citrus fruit and spice when young,

tightly knit appellation is that 85% of its surface is under

evolving to nuances of honey and dried fruit after 4-5 years.

organic or biodynamic cultivation - environmental concerns

Mourvèdre yields are kept low, producing wines with good

being high on the producers’ list of priorities.

structure and concentration.

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

Provence: A look at the five main rosé wine areas

ROSÉS FROM ACROSS THE PROVENÇAL APPELLATIONS ARE DELIGHTFUL MATCHES FOR SUMMER VEGETABLES, FISH AND FISH SOUPS

CÔTES DE PROVENCE THE COAST The Côtes de Provence appellation, by far the largest in the

Based on the traditional varieties plus Cabernet Sauvignon, these

region, covers some 20,000 hectares for all three colours

rosés run from a soft pink to pale salmon. Complex aromas of

and runs from the Bouches-du-Rhône in the west, through

fresh and exotic fruit blend with floral and spicy notes. Like so

the Var and into the western area of the Alpes-Maritimes. An

many of the region’s rosés, these are fresh on the attack and

overwhelming 85% of production is in rosé, with the Var

smoothly rounded on the palate.

responsible for the lion’s share of this. The coastal region, running east from Toulon to St Raphaël, is a homogeneous one, with crystalline soils providing terroirs differing from those elsewhere in the appellation - and from the other regional appellations.

Rosés from across the Provençal appellations are delightful matches for summer vegetables, fish and fish soups. They also partner spicy Indian dishes and a variety of oriental cuisines to perfection. And they’re hard to beat as an aperitif on a warm summer evening.

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

TRAVEL

WHERE TO STAY IN THE

CÔTES DE PROVENCE

LES BAUX DE PROVENCE LA RIBOTO DE TAVEN

LA CÔTE

Tel. +33 (0)4 90 54 34 23 www.riboto-de-taven.fr

L’HIRONDELLE BLANCHE MAS DU VIGUEIRAT

Tel. +33 (0)4 98 11 84 03

Tel. +33 (0)4 90 92 56 07

www.hirondelle-blanche.fr

www.masduvigueirat.alpilles.fr LE PRÉ AUX MARGUÉRITES MAS DE L'OULIVIÉ

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 89 11 20

Tel. +33 (0)4.90 54 35 78

www.bonporto.com

www.masdeloulivie.com LA FERME D’AUGUSTIN

LES COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE LE CLOS DES FRÈRES GRIS

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 55 97 00 www.fermeaugustin.com

COTEAUX VAROIS

Tel. +33 (0)4 42 24 13 57 http://freres.gris.free.fr

LA MAISON DE ROCBARON

LA ROYANTE

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 04 24 03

Tel. +33 (0)4 42 03 83 42

www.maisonderocbaron.com

www.laroyante.com

LA SARRAZINE

BANDOL

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 73 20 27 www.lasarrazine.com

HOSTELLERIE BÉRARD & SPA Tel. +33 (0)4 94 90 11 43

UNE CAMPAGNE EN PROVENCE

www.hotel-berard.com

Tel. +33 (0)4 98 05 10 20 www.provence4u.com

LES QUATRE SAISONS Tel. +33 (0)4 94 25 24 90 www.lesquatresaisons.org

LE CLOS DE LA CHÈVRE SUD Tel. +33 (0)4 94 32 31 54 www.closdelachevre.com

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SUMMER 2011

Where to stay in the Côtes de Provence

WINING AND DINING IN THE CÔTES DE PROVENCE LES BAUX DE PROVENCE OUSTAU DE BAUMANIERE Tel. +33 (0)4 90 54 33 07 www.oustaudebaumaniere.com

LA CÔTE

LES COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE

BAR SAINT JOSEPH Tel. +33 (0)4 94 43 28 84

MITCH Tel. +33 (0)4 42 26 63 08

GRAIN DE SEL

www.mitchrestaurant.com

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 54 46 86 www.restaurant-cogolin.com

LA CAVE D’YVES Tel. +33 (0)4 42 93 75 80

LE VICE VERSA

www.lacavedyves.com

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 65 23 90

BANDOL COTEAUX VAROIS HOSTELLERIE BÉRARD & SPA Tel. +33 (0)4 94 90 11 43

HOSTELLERIE DE L’ABBAYE DE LA CELLE

www.hotel-berard.com

Tel. +33 (0)4 98 05 14 14 http://abbaye-celle.com

LE KV & B RESTAURANT BRUNO

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 74 85 77

Tel. +33 (0)4 94 85 93 93

http://lekvb.fr

www.restaurantbruno.com

VINS SUR VINGT Tel. +33 (0)4 94 77 82 66 www.la-provence-verte.net/activites/ detail-restaurants.php?ref=568

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QUALITY FACTORS

Rosés stay the course Until the beginning of the 19th century, rosé, or clairet as it was called, was virtually the only type of wine produced - except, of course, for whites. From that point on, due to advances in wine production, red wine would gradually begin to eclipse rosés, given its capacity for storage and transport. Nonetheless, the last decade has seen a remarkable revival of rosé wines, which are experiencing a boom in popularity. So what explains the growing success of rosés?

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

©FRANÇOIS MILLO CIVCP

osés, currently appreciated for their fragrant freshness as soon as summer temperatures start rising, are often not well understood. The first thing to know about rosé is that, in France, it is never a blend of white and red wine (except in the appellation of Champagne). However, it can be made by mixing white and red grapes or the juice from these after they have been pressed. Generally speaking, rosés are made from red grapes, although some include a percentage of white grapes. So how does rosé get its distinctive pink colour? There are two distinct methods, known as rosé de presse (pressing) and rosé de saignée (bleeding off). The former involves putting the crushed grapes in a vat where they start fermenting. The colour contained in the grape skins gradually dissolves in the juice as the temperature increases. The winemaker monitors this process carefully by taking samples, and when the wine reaches the desired colour, the juice is taken

Rosés stay the course

out of contact with the skins and removed to another container so fermentation can be completed without further colour input.

89 /100

Rosé de saignée is produced by ”bleeding off” the vat. This involves progressively removing juice from the vat during the fermentation of red wine. This process requires a high degree of technical skill and experience, as it is very difficult to produce a consistent wine using this method. The fermentation of the skins can range from 7 hours to up to 48 hours, depending on the region, the quality of the grapes and the winemaker’s judgement.

CÔTES DE PROVENCE LA LONDE A.C. Domaine Saint-André de Figuière Cuvée Confidentielle 2010 Brilliant pale pink. Focused nose of red berries. Finesse and elegance are key themes on the palate which is nervy with clear-cut fruit. Very fresh finish showing a hint of spice. A refined rosé drinking well with grilled fish.

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THIS ESTATE CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

IN THE PINK

Another big region for rosés is Provence. Its winemaking reputation rests on rosé wines, although the region also produces whites and reds that are increasingly gaining attention. The various rosés of the Côtes de Provence are produced from the harvests of five main types of terroirs, each with quite distinctive characteristics. The wines from the area between the coast and the Massif des Maures, for example, generally have a lighter, more mineral character than those from further inland, where the chalky terroir results in higher concentration. Aside from these general conditions, many other factors also play a role in the final result, including grape yield and the skill of the winemaker. In a nutshell, the aromatic range of Côtes de Provence rosés is vast, from light, charming wines with a nose of candy and flowers, perfect for an aperitif; to others with a mineral or spicy bouquet suitable for pairing with grilled fish; and yet others that are heady, fruity and fat and go well with desserts. These aspects are all equally true of other appellations in Provence, such as Bandol, Baux de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix and Coteaux Varois. All use the same grape varieties in different proportions: the terroir and the winemaker are the decisive factors in the resulting wine (see the Travel section for a special report on Provence, pages 45-52).

ROSÉ OR CLAIRET? Talking about rosé in Bordeaux is almost seen as an insult to the classic red and white wines that have made the region’s reputation over the last two centuries. However, it is important not to forget that ”claret”, as it was called by the British, long represented the bulk of wine production in Bordeaux and southwestern France. Today, Bordeaux rosés have come back into fashion, as have its clairets, although the latter are restricted to a smaller area. Bordeaux rosés, if rather modest in terms of bouquet (the grape

To give credit where credit is due, Tavel is the first stop in our tour of French rosés. Tavel rosés are dry, fruity but powerful, elegant and characterised by their southern-accented grape varieties. Their structure and spicy finish allow them to pair well with any dish, on the right occasion and at the right temperature.

ROSÉS ARE MADE FROM RED GRAPES, SOME INCLUDE WHITE GRAPES varieties of the Gironde are not particularly adapted to this type of vinification), have an advantageous price, whether in restaurants and bars or via traditional distribution channels. The reason is simple: they can be produced more rapidly and do not require as many months of ageing in wine cellars as do their red counterparts. They are generally light, with a bouquet of red fruits and tangy candy, and can be considered ”thirst-quenching wines”. On the other hand, clairets (whether these can be considered rosés is another question) are the result of a longer fermentation with the grape skins, similar to that of red wines, giving them more body and character. Their aromas lean towards ripe red fruit, caramel and toasted oak. They are often GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

QUALITY FACTORS

fleshy and round and are very appealing. They are excellent as an aperitif wine or with light, aromatic or exotic cuisine.

Other regions in the southwest also produce rosés, for example, Bergeracois, Côtes du Marmandais, Côtes de Duras and Buzet, without forgetting Côtes du Frontonnais, whose rosés have the particularity of a high percentage of Négrette, a characteristic variety of this winegrowing area. Farther south, the wines of Béarn and the Basque country also include a diverse range of good rosés.

MARSANNAY RHYMES WITH ROSÉ A rosé from Burgundy? You can’t be serious. Yet the first winegrowing village in the Côte de Nuits heading south from Dijon is Burgundy’s sole producer of a communal appellation rosé. The impetus came after the Second World War from Joseph Clair, a local producer who had been making rosé since 1919 (and largely ignored) and the tradition endured. The rosés of Marsannay are among the most unique in France. Sweet and fruity, they have good acidity and an expressive bouquet of strawberry and raspberry.

THE ROSÉS OF MARSANNAY ARE AMONG THE MOST UNIQUE IN FRANCE THE LOIRE

Another essential discovery is the rosés of the Loire. First, the Sancerre, a rosé made from Pinot Noir. If it is little known, it is likely the fault of the long acclaimed white Sancerre. Light and fruity, this rosé has a fresh and fruity fragrance. Anjou and Touraine also make a variety of rosés, but with different grape varieties. The rosé of the Loire is dry and fruity, including at least 30% Cabernet Franc, and can be produced throughout the Loire Valley, whereas Anjou rosés use Cabernet Franc, plus a little Cabernet Sauvignon, and are limited to the appellation of Anjou. Available in dry or semi-dry, Loire rosés have a bouquet of flowers and fruit sometimes enhanced by notes of candied fruit or caramel. Anjou rosé, on the other hand, is made from Groslot grapes and seems to have lost speed in recent years. The Touraine also produces many rosés, such as the generic appellation Touraine, of course, but also more localised and personalised wines based on local varieties such as Pineau d’Aunis and Cot, for example. Other Loire rosés include Cheverny, Coteaux du Loir (rare because of the tiny production area) and Coteaux du Vendômois, and the wines of Thouarsais (in Deux-Sèvres) and Valençay have excellent surprises in store if opened at the right moment and enjoyed with a simple dish from the region.

MARSANNAY IS BURGUNDY’S SOLE PRODUCER OF A COMMUNAL APPELLATION ROSÉ 54

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SUMMER 2011

UNCLASSED WINES Apart from wines whose name is known thanks to the reputation of a region’s reds or whites, there are certain rosés that can only be discovered by going out of your way to find them. For example, the rosés of the Vendée, which come from four winegrowing areas: Brem, Mareuil-sur-Lay-Dissais, Vix and Pissotte. These regional wines will delight you if you have the chance to sample them with the local cuisine during a stay there. Other rosés that continued on page 58

ADVERTORIAL

Abbaye Sainte-Marie de Pierredon: a miraculous site

ÂŠ ARGONAUTIS - FOTOLIA.COM

Emerging from a valley of cypress, olive and almond trees rises the sole bell tower remaining of all the abbeys built by the monastic order of Chalais at the end of the 11th century and the beginning of the 12th century. This magical place itself was very nearly wiped from the map and from our memories luckily, it escaped this fate.

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

Abbaye Sainte-Marie de Pierredon: a miraculous site

LORENZO PELLICIOLI AND HIS WIFE AT PIERREDON

he site is nestled against the southern slope of the Alpilles massif in Provence, just opposite from the famous Château Romanin. This haven for nature

lovers is part of the Alpilles nature reserve created in 2006. In 2001, Lorenzo Pellicioli, an Italian businessman, fell in love with this incredible site and decided to buy it. The estate, located in the centre of the nature reserve, spreads over a largely untouched area, traversed only by a few dirt roads. Fascinated by both the landscape and the abbey’s history, Pellicioli set about renovating the chapel, the house and the gardens, recreating an impressive family estate that is today enjoyed by three generations. The next step was to clean out and restore the property’s springs to provide a source of water. Geologists were called in to study the terrain to see if it could support a vineyard and an olive grove and to find the most suitable plots for planting. Once these areas were identified, they were cleared, developed to show them off to their best advantage, and planted with grapevines and olive trees. In 2004, Laurence Berlemont’s Cabinet d'Agronomie Provençale (Agency of Provence Agronomy) took up the challenge of completely recreating the agricultural activity that had long ago disappeared from the site. Three years later, the estate boasted 10 hectares of vineyards and 7 hectares of olive trees, cultivated organically; the first harvest took place in 2008. For the final touch in this faithful reconstruction of the original site, a herd of goats wanders among almond trees, lavender and truffle oaks, supplying the milk for artisanal goat’s cheese. In the same spirit and in tribute to the history of the abbey, the names of the wines produced here are inspired by the rhythm of the monastic day from dawn to dusk: for example, Prima Luce (the first light at dawn) and Ultima Laude (the final evening prayer). The wine labels evoke the stained glass of the Middle Ages, honouring the memory of the monks who lived here for centuries. ABBAYE SAINTE-MARIE DE PIERREDON Les Alpilles 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence Tel. +33 (0)4 90 18 47 09 Fax +33 (0)4 90 18 47 03 contact@abbayedepierredon.com www.abbayedepierredon.fr

ABBAYE DE PIERREDON IS LOCATED IN THE CENTRE OF THE NATURE RESERVE

WATER HAS REVITALIZED THE ESTATE LAURENCE BERLEMONT CABINET D’AGRONOMIE PROVENÇALE Route de Vins Sur Caramy 83170 Brignoles www.cabagronomie.fr GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

QUALITY FACTORS

OUR PICKS Here is our selection of French rosés that received the best scores in our recent tastings (at least 85/100). They are categorised by winegrowing region, by appellation and by score. You can also refer to our tasting notes on our website www.gilbertgaillard.com or now on your smartphone.

BORDEAUX Bordeaux A.C. 86/100 Château Castenet Greffier Vintage 2010 86/100 Baron de Montfort La Rose de Monbadon 2010 85/100 Château La France Vintage 2009 Bordeaux Clairet A.C. 86/100 Château Penin Vintage 2010

90/100 Bandol A.C. Domaine La Suffrène 2010 are a well-kept secret are those from the Côtes du Rhône. Not only do the Rhône villages have the right to produce rosé, some do it exceedingly well, such as Chusclan and Sablet. In Ardèche, on the other side of the Rhône, Côtes du Vivarais rosés also deserve to be discovered, and are remarkably good value. Gigondas itself comes in a rosé version, made from the same varieties used to make the red (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault), and often has a good structure, making it pair well with spicy dishes. Not to be outdone, the Jura produces rosés from the Arbois appellation, made from Trousseau, Poulsard and Pinot Noir grapes. Fermented longer than most standard rosés, they often have a darker colour, and their fragrant bouquet contains hints of the terroir, making them a perfect match for local specialities. A fitting way to end our tour of these ideal summer wines is a visit to the Mediterranean sun of Corsica. Its rosés, made mainly from Nielluccio grapes, go fantastically with its famous sheep’s cheese. In view of the diversity of rosés, how widespread they are, and their enduring commercial success over time, rosés have proved themselves real wines and not just a passing trend; that much is not in doubt. Perhaps to give them the place they deserve, we need to learn to understand them better, even if it means changing stubborn habits. Gilbert & Gaillard

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

4.7 € 6.00 € 4.90 € 6.40 €

Rosés stay the course

CORSE Vin de Corse Calvi A.C. 86/100 Domaine A Ronca Vintage 2010

7.00 €

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON Corbières A.C. 86/100 Cellier des Demoiselles Rosé des Demoiselles 2010 87/100 Château Beauregard Mirouze Tradition 2010 85/100 Château Prieuré Borde Rouge Rubellis 2010 Languedoc A.C. 87/100 Mas des Dames Vintage 2009 85/100 Cave de l'Ormarine Préambule 2010 Pays d'Oc I.G.P. 88/100 Domaine Savary de Beauregard Mathilde 2010 86/100 Puychéric Vintage 2010 86/100 Domaine les Quatre Amours Vintage 2010 85/100 Mas Pellier Grenache 2010 85/100 Domaine de la Clapière Jalades 2010

4.95 € 6.50 € 5.50 € 3.95 € 3.60 € 6.80 € 4.65 € 7.00 € 5.00 € 6.00 €

Saint-Chinian A.C. 87/100 Cave de Roquebrun Ta Fiole de Rosé 2010 86/100 Château Belot Le Vignalet 2010 Vin de Pays du Gard 88/100 Domaine des Cantarelles Chloé 2010

6.30 € 5.00 € 4.50 €

LOIRE VALLEY Cabernet d'Anjou A.C. 85/100 Domaine de Flines Vintage 2010 Chinon A.C. 87/100 J. Spelty Cabernet Franc 2010 Coteaux du Giennois A.C. 86/100 Philippe Raimbault Vintage 2010 Rosé d'Anjou A.C. 85/100 Domaine de Montgilet Vintage 2010 Sancerre A.C. 89/100 Michel Vattan Vintage 2009

4.70 € 5.20 € 6.30 € 5.00 € 7.50 €

89/100 Sancerre A.C. Michel Vattan 2009

88/100 Tavel A.C. Domaine des Carabiniers 2010

87/100 Languedoc A.C. Mas des Dames 2010

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QUALITY FACTORS

88/100 Philippe Raimbault Apud Sariacum 2010 88/100 Vincent Grall Vintage 2010 87/100 Domaine Henry Natter Vintage 2010 87/100 François Millet Vintage 2009 86/100 Michel Vattan Vintage 2010 Touraine A.C. 87/100 Antoine et Vincent Dupuy Noble Joué 2010 86/100 Domaine Joël Delaunay Les Cabotines 2010 85/100 Domaine de la Renne Ciel de la loire 2010

9.00 € 7.60 € n/a 7.50 € 7.50 € 4.20 € 4.70 € 3.55 €

Cuvée des Tamaris 2009 Côtes de Provence A.C. 90/100 Clos Cibonne Cuvée Prestige Caroline 2009 89/100 Château du Galoupet Vintage 2010 89/100 Clos Cibonne Cuvée Tendance 2010 88/100 Château Barbeiranne Cuvée Camille 2010 88/100 Domaine de Grandpré Cuvée Favorite 2009 87/100 Château Cavalier Vintage 2010 87/100 Fleur de l'Amaurigue Vintage 2010 87/100 Domaine Les Maurines Cuvée Découverte 2010 Côtes de Provence La Londe A.C. 89/100 Domaine de l'Angueiroun Prestige 2010

89 /100

86 /100

5.50 €

85/100 Domaine des Cantarelles Vintage 2010

5.00 €

Côtes du Rhône A.C. 87/100 Domaine des Bernardins Rosé des Balmes 2010

5.20 €

87/100 Domaine de Magalanne Vintage 2010

4.35 €

86/100 Esprit du Silène Vintage 2010

6.90 €

86/100 Les Vignerons du Castelas Vintage 2010

3.90 €

11.00 € 8.00 € 13.00 € 10.50 €

Lirac A.C.

12.00 €

Tavel A.C.

Prestige des Granges 2010

7.50 €

5.50 €

86/100 Cave des Vins de Cru Lirac Vieilles Vignes 2010

6.00 €

85/100 Cave des Vins de Cru Lirac Tradition 2010

5.25 €

88/100 Domaine des Carabiniers Vintage 2010

9.50 €

Vaucluse I.G.P. 87/100 Domaine de Tara Terre d'Ocres 2010

16.00 € 10.20 € 10.00 € 12.10 € 6.00 € 9.00 € 7.00 € 6.00 €

Ventoux A.C.

13.20 €

85/100 Château Coutinel Vintage 2010

5.20 €

86/100 Domaine du Bon Remède Pensée Sauvage 2010

5.00 €

86/100 Saurette Découvertes 2009

5.75 €

SOUTH-WEST Bergerac A.C. 87/100 Château Pique-Sègue Vintage 2010

4.84 €

Fronton A.C.

BANDOL A.C. Domaine de l'Olivette 2010 Pale orangy hue. Very focused nose marrying red berry fruits with a delicate mineral tone. On the palate, a fleshy, expressive rosé showing great aromatic purity. Lingering citrus fruitdominated finish. BANDOL A.C. La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Pale pink. Very fresh, endearing nose with floral and focused fruit accents. The palate is quite tonic and shows a pronounced, upfront crisp and spicy dimension. The finish remains fresh and is augmented by a clutch of peppery notes.

GILBERT & GAILLARD

85/100 Château Lamargue Les Grandes Cabanes 2010

85/100 Laudun Chusclan Vignerons

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

Costières de Nîmes A.C.

Côtes du Rhône-Villages Laudun A.C.

PROVENCE Bandol A.C. 90/100 Domaine La Suffrène Vintage 2010 90/100 Château de Berne Cuvée Spéciale 2010 89/100 Domaine de l'Olivette Vintage 2010 88/100 Domaine Le Galantin Vintage 2010 Coteaux Varois en Provence A.C. 86/100 Château de la Prégentière Vintage 2009 85/100 Domaine Les Vallons de Fontfresque

RHÔNE VALLEY

SUMMER 2011

6.00 €

ROSÉS AROUND THE WORLD World production of rosé wines is difficult to evaluate because most national and international statistics group together the production of reds and rosés. According to the data available, world production of rosés represents less than 10% (18-20 million hectolitres in 2001-02) of the total volume of wines (of all colours) produced across five continents. Around a quarter of this production is in France, which is the largest producer of rosés in the world. Next come Italy and Spain, each of which produce around 4 million hectolitres. Thus, Europe produces almost threequarters of the world’s rosés, well ahead of the United States (20%) and North Africa (2%). The French region of Provence alone represents almost 8% of the market. Almost all rosés are produced for domestic consumption in the region or country of origin. Thus, the main producing countries are also the main consuming countries (France, Italy, Spain and the United States). Rosés represent over 10% of these countries’ total wine consumption.

WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

www.leclercbriant.com

Champagne Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters

This family-run estate was managed by Pascal Leclerc-Briant until his sudden death in October 2010. The oldest of his four daughters, the 27year-old Ségolène, took over with her radiant energy and the support of her three sisters. Together, they continue in their father’s footsteps, transmitting his values and his passion for winemaking.

SÉGOLÈNE, PRESIDENT OF THE COMPANY

ascal Leclerc-Briant had just finished harvesting his grapes when he passed away on October 6, 2010 at the age of 60. ”He barely had time to taste the wines from that year’s grapes,” relates his oldest daughter, Ségolène. The loss of this passionate, warm, well-liked winemaker was a shock to the Champagne wine world. Leclerc-Briant was an apostle of biodynamics, a growing method that prioritises respect for the grapevines and the environment. ”He was curious about everything. He was bursting with ideas about winemaking and travelled all over the world to find out about different methods,” says Ségolène. At the age of 27, Ségolène took over the management of the house, becoming president of Leclerc-Briant: “This turn of events wasn’t predestined. I more or less found myself in this

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

role overnight. Before this, I had only been involved in seasonal work, and I had a bit of sales and marketing experience gained at the estate.” Through force of circumstance, Ségolène knew Champagne well: its grapevines, wines and how to enjoy them. But her orientation was the totally different world of publishing, following a degree in French language and literature, with an option in art history. She also had various trips around the world under her belt, including time spent in Spain and Lausanne, Switzerland, where she received a qualification in hotel management. “My father always encouraged us to do what interested us and what we enjoyed. He used to tell us that you never know what

Champagne Leclerc Briant: a story of sisters

THIS CHARMING QUARTET REPRESENTS THE SIXTH GENERATION OF THIS FAMILY OF WINEMAKERS Ségolène

Astrid

Sonia

Diane

the future holds. All the experience I gained in other fields is useful to what I’m doing now. I speak three languages fluently, and I’ve learned how to market and talk about our wines,” says the young director.

Taking over the management of the estate was not a simple formality. Ségolène and her three sisters, Astrid, Sonia and Diane, suddenly found themselves confronted with urgent decisions that needed to be taken. “We had to respond quickly. Importers and customers wanted to know what was going to happen to the brand,” explains Ségolène. Finding herself president of the company on October 7, the day after her father’s death, Ségolène managed to find the energy and audacity to take on the challenge. “Our father was liked and respected in Champagne. That really helped us.” This trust was very valuable at a difficult time, both emotionally and professionally. Since then, Ségolène has surprised observers as well as herself. “I’m interested in everything about the process, particularly vinification and marketing. I would like to see us producing some of our wines in barrels. We plan to experiment with this at the next harvest. And my sisters and I would like to pay tribute to our father with a special vintage from the 2010 harvest,” she says. “Perhaps a rosé blend,” adds Astrid, age 25, who has been working at her sister’s side since their father passed away. “I’m a philosophy teacher. When our father died, I was teaching at a lycée in Ardennes. I resigned so I could come and help Ségolène, but I may go back to teaching at some stage.”

A TRIBUTE TO PASCAL

Ségolène is delighted to be able to count on Astrid, who is involved in certain aspects of the winemaking process. Their two other sisters are still students. Sonia, aged 22, is studying business in Paris, and Diane, 19, just began medical school. “We are very close,” affirms Ségolène on behalf of this charming quartet who represent the sixth generation of this family of winemakers, and who possess a luminous intelligence of which Pascal can be proud. Jean Batilliet

CHAMPAGNE LECLERC BRIANT 67, rue Chaude Ruelle BP 108 - 51204 Epernay Cedex - France Tel. +33 (0)3 26 54 45 33 - www.leclercbriant.com

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

www.deffends.com

Domaine du Deffends: when dreams become reality How a trip to Nice led to a life amongst the vines...

hen Paris-born Suzel went to Nice to visit her best

friend from school in the early 1960s, she had

neither marriage nor wine in mind. However, her

friend’s husband was a friend of Jacques de Lanversin and the rest, as they say, is history. Suzel and Jacques married in 1965, and before long they were busy renovating a ruin to live in while they pondered the best use of the slopes on this domaine in SaintMaximin la Sainte-Baume, 35 km east of Aix-en-Provence. Jacques was a professor of law at the university in Aix before he bought the 14 hectares of stony chalk-clay soil in 1963 and became a vigneron following his dreams. A tentative start was made with plantings of Grenache and Cinsault, but a change in the appellation laws forced him to rip these out and start again. “Over the next 10 years we planted Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, and it went from there,” explains Suzel. Today Domaine du Deffends has plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault for the reds - the last two used for the rosés as well - with Viognier and Rolle for the whites. “We tried Mourvèdre, but we don’t have the right terroir for it here,” adds Suzel.

These produce the domaine’s eight cuvées, though not all are made each year. “In reds, we make Champs de la Truffière and Champs du Bécassier every year. For the two others, it depends on conditions. And with occasional exceptions, we make the two rosés and two whites every year.” The domaine has been Ecocert-certified since 2009, thanks to ongoing efforts to keep non-organic intervention to a minimum

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

SUZEL DE LANVERSIN: “IT’S ALWAYS A CHALLENGE, TRYING TO EXPRESS THE VERY BEST OF OUR TERROIRS”

Domaine du Deffends: when dreams become reality

”WHEN IT’S HOT, WE CAN HARVEST VERY EARLY IN THE MORNING, THEN STOP AT MIDDAY” in both vineyard and cuverie. Weeds are controlled by alternate

the rosés. Yields are kept to a minimum, with 35 hl/ha for the

ploughing and grassing over between vineyard rows, and all fertiliser

whites, 35-40 for the reds and 45 maximum for the rosés. Most

is organic.

wines fall under the Coteaux Varois appellation, though both whites and one rosé are Vins de Pays since the percentage of the

Harvesting is three parts mechanical and one part manual, the latter

grape variety used falls outside the AOC laws.

for areas more difficult to access. For Suzel, the main advantage is in being able to harvest at exactly the right moment. “Last year, for

Since she was widowed in 2004 Suzel has been at the head of the

instance, harvesting ran for a total of five weeks. For a small

domaine, with the help of a cellar master who also looks after the

domaine like this, we couldn’t have hired harvesters for that long.

vines. The Lanversins’ three children, Emmanuel, Anne and Marie-

And if it’s hot, we can harvest very early in the morning, then stop

Liesse, have all followed their own careers. However, they return to

at midday.”

the domaine regularly to help, and will be there to ensure the continuity of their parents’ dream.

Vinification is classic, with pumping over for the reds, and a light pressing following maceration rather than the saignée method for

Suzel pauses to reflect on the nature of her work. “One has to be prepared to adapt from one year to the next. There are so many

DOMAINE DU DEFFENDS 83470 St Maximin La Ste Baume - France Tel. +33 (0)4 94 78 03 91 - www.deffends.com

different conditions to take into account, not least the weather. It’s always a challenge, trying to express the very best of our terroirs. Then contact with the public is so important. But when they appreciate our wines…” Janet Edsforth-Stone GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

REGION

The drive for quality in Languedoc

A pioneering winegrowing region, Languedoc-Roussillon has managed to create a product range consisting of diverse and distinctive appellations side by side with finely crafted Pays dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oc wines. Developing these two parallel yet complementary tracks required vision 30 years ago, and today the resulting wines are winning over new markets under the umbrella brand for food and drink products from the region, Sud de France.

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

The drive for quality in Languedoc

Since 2006, the region’s winemakers have been able to market their wine under the label Sud de France, an umbrella brand conceived to promote the region’s food products. Supported by the regional government, the export branch of Sud de France has opened “Maisons de la Région LanguedocRoussillon” in Shanghai, Brussels, London and New York to showcase and promote Languedoc-Roussillon products and help the region’s businesses build international visibility. Languedoc-Roussillon has been actively involved in the marketing of its wines and in supporting its winemakers in the search for new customers.

anguedoc-Roussillon was long a bulk winegrowing region composed mainly of high-yield vineyards. In order to achieve the level of quality reached today,

this strategy had to be reconsidered. In Languedoc, vineyards cover 230,000 hectares, of which 40,000 hectares are appellations, resulting in a volume of 1.25 million hectolitres (Mhl) of AOC wines, compared to 5.7 Mhl of AOC wines from 88,000 hectares in the Pays d’Oc. Languedoc-Roussillon is France’s largest producer of wine of all categories, representing 35% of national production.

Hé ra ul t

Clairette du Languedoc Faugères

Muscat de Lunel

Montpellier Languedoc

Muscat de St-Jeande-Minervois Cabardès

Languedoc

Narbonne

Muscat de Frontignan

Corbières

Blanquette de Limoux Maury

Fitou

Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Côtes du Roussillon

Rivesaltes et Muscat de Rivesaltes © GILBERT & GAILLARD

Perpignan Têt

Muscat de Mireval

Minervois

Malepère

Aude

St-Chinian

Collioure Banyuls

IN LANGUEDOC, VINEYARDS COVER 230,000 HECTARES, OF WHICH 40,000 HECTARES ARE APPELLATIONS GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

REGION

THE REGION’S TRANSFORMATION IS LARGELY DUE TO THE INNOVATION OF LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON’S WINEMAKERS In 2007, another important development occurred - the creation of the regional appellation Languedoc, which covers the entire winegrowing region from Nîmes in the east to Castelnaudary in the west, and stretching south all the way to the Spanish border. This appellation forms the base of the hierarchical categorisation under discussion by the region’s wine industry today. In 2009, the European Union brought in regulations to standardise wine labelling across its member states, launching AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée), the equivalent of the French AOC label. Under the new guidelines, each producer organisation for an appellation became an ODG (Organisme de Défense et de Gestion), authorised to enforce the regulations affecting their appellation. Another change resulting from this European regulation is that Vins de Pays wines are now to be labelled IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée), and come under the same authority as the AOC appellations. “Receiving a European label of quality is recognition of the strides made in Vins de Pays wines over the last 30 years,” attests Florence Barthes, the executive director of Vins de Pays d’Oc. The range of Languedoc-Roussillon wines, the majority of which are IGP (contrary to other French regions), places considerable importance on quality. In terms of volume, the Pays d’Oc IGP is the number one exporter in France and the fifth largest exporter in the world

(2.75 Mhl). For AOC Languedoc wines, the export market represents 37% of its total markets, making it the third largest AOC exporter of still wine (521,000 hl). Thus, for AOP and IGP wines combined, Languedoc-Roussillon is the largest wine exporter in France.

EXPORT SYNERGY The region’s transformation is largely due to the innovation of Languedoc-Roussillon’s winemakers. The concept that has contributed most to building the reputation of Languedoc wines outside of France is the launch of varietal wines. This was first introduced by the wine producer and wholesaler Skalli, and was followed by the Vins de Pays d’Oc in the 1990s. Today, these wines are sold in 150 countries around the world. “In 1999, thanks to Baron de Rothschild and Skalli, varietal wines from the region gained a foothold in Québec, Canada, where they then paved the way for appellation wines over the last ten years,” says Barthès. On this development, both the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL) and the organisation of Pays d’Oc wine producers agree that the two European labels (AOP and IGP) complement each other by making the product offer more flexible: “The international pattern of wine consumption follows the Anglo-Saxon model. In terms of varietals, Pays d’Oc has a strong presence in the market, which can then lead curious consumers to discover specific appellations in the terroir,” describes Barthès. Another convincing argument she makes in continued on page 70

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

ADVERTORIAL

Terra Vinea: wine tourism with character

n the southern French region of Corbières, the history of wine is told at Terra Vinea, where the wine cooperative of Rocbère - which brings together winemakers from the village districts of Peyrac, Sigean, Portel-des-Corbières and Monze - has converted an old gypsum mine into an ageing cellar.

The Rocbère winemakers behind this ambitious project have created a cellar and museum space of over 770 m² that welcomes more than 50,000 visitors every year. Located just inland from the Mediterranean coast, the village of Portel-des-Corbières is surrounded by the vineyards that produce the reputed Rocbère wine. A scenic tourist train allows visitors to take in the beauty of the landscape around the site, which is perched on a rock overlooking the vineyards. Nature stretches as far as the eye can see, interrupted only by the 13th-century church of Notre Dame des Oubiels (oubiels is

THE COOPERTIVE CONVERTED AN OLD GYPSUM MINE INTO AN AGEING CELLAR

an Occitan word meaning ”lambs”). After descending the hundred or so steps that lead to the cellar - 80 metres underground - a light show precedes a labyrinth of arched vaults where Rocbère wines mature in barrels or, for certain grape varieties, in tuns. Spaces dotted around the museum reveal reconstructed scenes from ancient Roman times, and displays of tools relate the development of grapevine cultivation, cooperage and other important moments in the history of winemaking.

THE MUSEUM SHOWS RECONSTRUCTED SCENES FROM ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES

Back above ground, the guided tour concludes with a tasting of the sought-after wines of Rocbère. A shop and restaurant allow you to extend your visit as long as you like.

TERRA VINEA From Narbonne, take the RN 9 in the direction of Sigean and follow the road to Portel-des-Corbières. Open daily. Price: 8.50 € (adults), 1 € (ages 6–9), 3.50 € (ages 10-14) Tel. +33 (0)4 68 48 64 90 - www.terra-vinea.com

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

REGION

THE WINES LABELLED LA CLAPE WILL BE THE TOP OF THE RANGE support of the region’s strategy is that “high volumes and brands allow better penetration of developing markets.”

AOP/IGP SYNERGY

JÉRÔME VILLARET, THE CIVL’S CHIEF REPRESENTATIVE 70

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

Although the new Europe-wide AOP label does not significantly affect AOC appellations, the IGP label has a greater impact, covering all Vins de Pays, including VDQS (Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure), which have opted to be labelled as IGP. The removal of the VDQS category in France ought to lead to greater transparency for consumers, particularly in supermarkets. “This reform allows IGP and AOP wines to be grouped together on supermarket shelves for whites, reds and rosés - a system currently being tested in the supermarket group Système U. In the region, Pays d’Oc wines are in the majority, with 6 Mhl, followed by 2 Mhl for vins de pays and small producers, 1.3 Mhl for AOC wines, and the rest made up of table wines,” says Barthès. The new system allows AOP and IGP wines to be found side by side on supermarket shelves. If Pays d’Oc wine producers (as recently announced) take advantage of the European rule authorising the production of sparkling wines from IGP varietals, AOC Crémant and AOC Blanquette de Limoux will have to adapt to this new reality.

MARKET SEGMENTATION SYNERGY Since 2006, Pays d’Oc has divided its range of wines into three categories: “Seduction” is the base of the pyramid, with high-yield technology-intensive wines produced in large volumes (3 Mhl) and sold for 2-3 euros in supermarkets; “Style”, a category aimed at the trendy bar and restaurant sector as well as retailers,

The drive for quality in Languedoc

produced in large volumes (3 Mhl) and offering a range of original bi-varietal wines sold for 3-8 euros; and lastly, “Collection”, the high-end category, from 8 euros a bottle, produced in smaller volumes (500,000 hl) and excluded from supermarkets in France. As for the appellations, a year ago, CIVL started the major task of organising the region’s AOCs into a three-level hierarchy. “Since Christian Jeanjean took office two years ago, creating quality categories has been one of CIVL’s priorities. For years now, Languedoc has included some quality winemakers. Only ten years ago, there were about 20. Today, the quality is such that the industry here demands a hierarchy that corresponds to the different categories of wine produced. Bordeaux did this 150 years ago,” comments Jérôme Villaret, the CIVL’s chief representative.

/100

86 /100

ORGANIC WINE

CORBIÈRES A.C. Château de Durfort 2009 Concentrated garnet-red. Heady nose of wild berries (strawberry, redcurrant), blackcurrant with refined toasted vanilla oak in the background. A refined, elegant style melding focused, crunchy fruit with delicate melted oak. A successful effort.

CORBIÈRES A.C. Domaine Sainte Croix Le Fournas 2009 Deep, dark purple. Delicious nose of fresh forest fruits (blackcurrant, redcurrant…) with a heady background. Supple, velvety palate with soft mouthfeel and expressive, easy-drinking fruit. A charming young Corbières that makes an ideal introduction to the appellation.

FULL CONTACT DETAILS FOR THESE ESTATES CAN BE FOUND ON PAGE 114

This project will have a big impact on Languedoc wine production over the next ten years. The appellations have been invited to sign a charter to reach the required quality level over the next two years. The pyramid structure consists of the AOC Languedoc appellation at the base, including everyday wines and brands produced in high volumes selling for 3-4 euros per bottle. In this market segment, strong brands such as Castel’s Roche Mazet, Jeanjean’s La Croix Jeannel and Val d’Orbieu’s Mythique Languedoc, among

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON WAS LONG A BULK WINEGROWING REGION COMPOSED MAINLY OF HIGH-YIELD VINEYARDS GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

REGION

others, should sell 2 million bottles in supermarkets this year. The middle of the pyramid is the category Grands Vins du Languedoc, selling for 3.50-10 euros. The top of the pyramid, the Grands Crus, is reserved for niche wines over 10 euros.

WHAT FUTURE FOR VINS DE PAYS? Since 1 August 2009, Vins de Pays have become IGP, although so far this change has not been very apparent. Yet this labelling

Ten appellations have already committed to the process. “La Clape’s

modification will have consequences for 150 Vins de Pays in

wine producers’ organisation has signed the charter. This area

France. “The notion of Vins de Pays has disappeared, but the transition

includes AOC La Clape wines ranging from 3 euros to 50 euros, which confuses consumers. The new hierarchy will mean that

to IGP has not been simple for winemakers. Although the Vins de

generic wines at 3 euros will be labelled AOC Languedoc, while

Pays label is less and less common, we’re now in the second year

wines labelled La Clape will be the top of the range,” explains

of transition and the new categorisation has not come completely

Villaret. “Meanwhile, the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine

into effect in France. Today, the label includes the name of the

(INAO) is working to classify specific characteristics of different

winery, the grape variety or blend, and the vintage, as well as the

terroirs in order to tackle the concept of vintage in a nationally consistent way. Winemakers in Pic Saint-Loup, La Clape and Boutenac (Corbières) have been working to ensure quality for some 15 years now, whereas other terroirs have not even emerged yet.” Christelle Zamora

designation Pays d’Oc and IGP. However, the designation Vin de Pays is still recognised at the European level, so it can appear on the label as long as the IGP logo is placed in a noticeable position,” clarifies Florence Barthès.

AOP/IGP: THE DIFFERENCES AOP

Objective

Place Quality

Origin

Grape varieties

GILBERT & GAILLARD

IGP

European label made compulsory by Council Regulation (CE) no. 510/2006 of 20/03/2006 To promote and protect the specific characteristics resulting from the terroir of the labelled product Must refer to a geographic name The quality is related exclusively to the product’s geographic origin

European label made compulsory by Council Regulation (CE) no. 510/2006 of 20/03/2006 To protect geographic names and to designate the origin of a food product that draws some of its specific characteristics from its place of origin Refers to a geographic region The quality can arise from geographic origin or reputation or other specific characteristics attributable to the product’s origin The wine must be produced in the Production outside of the region of appellation and be made exclusively origin is authorised from grapes from its vineyards The wine must be made exclusively The wine can be made from Vitis vinifera from Vitis vinifera grapes grapes or hybrids of Vitis species

SUMMER 2011

Regulation

NEW YORK LIFE

www.blueribbonrestaurants.com

You’re a well known chef, and, after closing your restaurant at 1 a.m., where do you go? Blue Ribbon, of course. Jamal Rayyis

Three years later, the brothers opened

have been destinations for New York

Blue Ribbon Sushi (1995), which for a

chefs, waiters, bartenders and the people

time was regarded as one of New York’s

who love them, offering solid, often

best sushi bars (it is still excellent).

unexpectedly good dishes, drinks, raw

Unlike the rarified air of New York’s other

seafood platters, whatever they want, into

elite sushi restaurants, there is an almost

the wee hours of the night.

democratic feel to Blue Ribbon. Once

Blue Ribbon Sushi

Eric and Bruce Bromberg at their first

again, classics are offered, but also innovations, too, with Raw Live Orange Clam (Aoyagi) Sautéed with Asparagus

restaurant Blue Ribbon Brasserie (1992),

and Black Pepper sharing a menu with

was simple from the start: offer a casual,

with fried chicken, vegetable kebabs,

but also “proper,” white table-cloth

cheeseburger,

tofu ravioli, paella and

Yellow Tail Tuna (Hamachi) Sashimi and

ambiance serving simple, delicious food

pigeon, plus skate and sweetbreads, sea

Freshwater Eel (Unagi) Sushi. Befitting

and drink to New York’s bon vivants,

bass and roast duck club sandwiches. Its

any fine sushi restaurant, there is an

gastronomes, locals and visitors alike.

busiest time comes after midnight, when

Opened from 4pm to 4am, no reservations

chefs at other restaurants get off work and

are taken, and there is no door policy.

simply want to relax. The wine list is

Anyone who finds a space is welcome. As

superb. In addition to oyster-perfect

grand in presentation as a classic Parisian

classics like Sancerre and Chablis, one

brasserie, yet intimate in space like a

will find more esoteric wines such Kalin

neighborhood bistro, and as unpreten-

Cellars Semillon Sonoma, Loire Valley

tious as a New York diner, Blue Ribbon

Pineu d’Aunis, Italian, Spanish and

Brasserie offers impressive plateaux des

German wines. There is also a list of both

fruits de mers (raw seafood platters) along

classic and original cocktails.

GILBERT & GAILLARD

Downing Street Bar

SUMMER 2011

©STEVE HILL

The philosophy of owners (and brothers)

©STEVE HILL

For nearly 20 years, Blue Ribbon restaurants

NEW YORK LIFE

Spain, Australia or Germany and so on, and prices can be surprisingly good. At a recent visit to Blue Ribbon Bakery, Domaine Gauby’s Vieilles Vignes Rouge was priced $60, a bargain considering it

Downing Street Bar

©STEVE HILL

costs $40-$50 in shops. Blue Ribbon’s attention to wine is most apparent at the miniscule Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar, which opened on a

impressive Sake list, one made accessible

narrow West Village street in 2007.

by flavour profiles provided on the menu.

Twenty-one wines are poured by the glass,

Yaegaki, “Mu,” Daiginjo is described as

of which six are sparklers as varied as

“Fleshy, ripe green apples,” whereas Dassai, Ginjo, Nigori Zake (Roughly

Domaine Champlou Vouvray Petillant,

Filtered) offers “melon, [with a] hint of

Trabanco Sidra from Asturias, Spain,

almonds.” There is also a surprisingly

Ca’dei Mandori Brachetto Rosato Brut

thoughtful wine list, too, including

from

Piedmont,

and,

course

Champagne. Themed flights of wines, such as Sherry, Sake, Greek Whites, Crozes-Hermitage and California Zinfandel are regularly featured, offering opportunities to taste all wines in a flight, or to enjoy a whole

Brasserie Exterior

©STEVE HILL

glass or bottle. More than 300 wines are offered by the bottle, as well as range of artisanal spirits and innovative cocktails. The food from the simple kitchen is good, too. Chateau De Chamboureau Cuvée d’Avant Savennières, Ameztoi Txakoli, LarmandierBernier, Blanc De Blancs, 1er Cru Champagne, and some fine red wines, too. An enthusiastic attitude regarding conviviality, wine and drink is central to

The idea of serving a range of top quality dishes that can surely satisfy the tastes of all might not be original to Blue Ribbon. Indeed, it harks back to the classic days of Parisian brasseries, which offered regular

all Blue Ribbon Restaurants, which now

people a wide range of options at all

number ten in total, in Manhattan,

hours of the day. But, as brasseries have

Brooklyn, and from last year, Las Vegas.

become “classics,” with codified menus (huitres, choucroutte, magret de canard,

The emphasis is on small production-

entrecote de boeuf, etc), it’s refreshing that

scale wines from independent vignerons,

the Bromberg brothers have reinvented

be they from France, the United States,

the genre, making it their own.

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

BLUE RIBBON RESTAURANTS www.blueribbonrestaurants.com Blue Ribbon Brasserie 97 Sullivan St, New York Tel. +1 212 274 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun, 4am-4pm Blue Ribbon Brooklyn 280 5th Ave, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 840 0404 Hours: Mon-Thur, 5pm-12am; Fri, 5pm-2am; Sat 4pm-2am; Sun 4pm-12am Blue Ribbon Sushi 119 Sullivan St, New York Tel. +1 212 343 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun, 12pm-2am Blue Ribbon Sushi Brooklyn 278 5th Ave, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 840 0408 Hours: Mon-Fri, 5pm-12am; Sat-Sun, 4pm-12am Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill 308 W. 58th St, New York Tel. +1 212 397 0404 Hours: Mon-Sun 7am-10.30am; Mon-Sat, 12pm-2am; Sun, 12pm-12am Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill Las Vegas 3708 Las Vegas Blvd South, Las Vegas Tel. +1 702 736 0808 Hours: Sun-Thur, 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat, 5pm - 2am Blue Ribbon Bakery 35 Downing St, New York Tel. +1 212 337 0404 Hours: Mon- Thu, 12pm-12am; Fri, 12pm-2am; Sat, 11:30am-2am; Sun, 11:30am-12am Blue Ribbon Market 14 Bedford St, New York Tel. +1 212 647 0408 Hours: 8am-8pm Blue Ribbon Downing Street Bar 34 Downing St, New York Tel +1 212 691 0404 Hours: Mon-Fri, 4pm-2am; Sat-Sun, 11am-2am Brooklyn Bowl 61 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn Tel. +1 718 963 3369 Hours: Mon- Thur, 6pm-2am; Fri 6pm-4am; Sat 11am-4am; Sun 11am-2am

TRAVEL

Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s wines

Hubrecht Duijker has published almost 100 books on wine over the last 30 years, including The Bordeaux Atlas and Encyclopedia of Chateaux, which was awarded a prize by the Académie du Vin de Bordeaux. He recently toured Indiana in the United States to take an in-depth look at this little-known but flourishing regional wine industry.

INDIANA IS CURRENTLY HOME TO SOME 50 WINERIES A NUMBER THAT IS SOON SET TO DOUBLE GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

TRAVEL

n immaculately set table complete with printed menus awaits a six-course meal prepared by a talented chef. Are we visiting a prestigious chateau in Bordeaux? No - we are receiving a royal welcome at the Chateau Thomas Winery in Indiana. Created in 1997, the winery is located in the neighbourhood of Plainfield, not far from the state capital of Indianapolis. The location, says owner Dr Charles Thomas, a former obstetrician and well-known collector of Bordeaux (particularly the 1928 vintage), was specifically chosen to attract the widest possible clientele: ”Some 100,000 cars pass by here each day.” Accompanying the delicious and distinctive Midwestern cuisine of Indiana maize bisque, carpaccio of Wagyu beef, and bison stew with mushroom risotto, we sampled a small selection of Thomas’s 50 different varieties of wines. ”My husband works more hours now than when he delivered babies,” smiles our hostess. ”Just less during the night!’ Each of the wines is of irreproachable quality and pairs excellently with the food: from

a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc to a rich, not excessively woody

IN RECENT YEARS, THE FRUITY AND FLORAL TRAMINETTE HAS BECOME THE UNOFFICIAL STATE WINE

Chardonnay, moving on to a spicy Primitivo, a complex Bordeaux-blend Family Reserve and a soft and sweet Late Harvest Riesling. We also tried the world’s first sugar-free sweet wine, Slender wines, designed with special sweeteners for © HUBRECHT DUIJKER

diabetics, as well as a deep red Teroldego. Charles Thomas says

THE INDIANA STATE MUSEUM IN INDIANAPOLIS HAS A ROOM DEDICATED TO LIMESTONE 76

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

of his winemaking, ”My style is French. I refuse to make my wines just to appeal to Robert Parker.”

SWEET WINE FROM SEVERE CONDITIONS Chateau Thomas does not have its own vineyard. It buys 15,000 cases of grapes exclusively from other states - mostly from

Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s wines

JEFF DURM OF BUCK CREEK WINERY BUYS HALF OF HIS GRAPES FROM WINEGROWERS IN INDIANA AND, LIKE MANY OTHER WINEMAKERS IN THE STATE, ALSO USES GRAPES FROM ELSEWHERE California and Washington. ”I don’t have the ambition to become

”It’s a challenge to grow wine here,” says Jeanette Merritt, somewhat

a winegrower,” Thomas explains. ”The soil in Indiana is too rich,

understating the case. She works for the Indiana Wine Grape

and the climate too harsh. I buy my grapes, which arrive in

Council, which promotes winegrowing in the region and gives

perfect condition in refrigerated trucks.” Most of the other wineries

technical advice. Top among their recommendations to new

in the region, which number about 50, operate in the same way.

winegrowers is to install a drainage system. ”Draining is the biggest

This explains why this state of 93,720 square kilometres, bordered

problem,” she says. ”Precipitation can reach 10 centimetres a day.”

to the north by the immense Lake Michigan, counts only 170

She also advises planting tolerant, hardy hybrid varieties. ”Noble”

hectares of vineyards. Our visit in the summer of 2010 illustrated

varieties, originating from Vitis vinifera vines, do not prosper in

why the climate makes winegrowing virtually impossible.

Indiana. However, hybrids such as Chardonel (a cross between

Temperatures stayed above 30°C without falling at night, and

Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc), Chambourcin, Norton and especially

short but violent thunderstorms brought heavy rains. In spring,

Traminette do better. This last variety was developed at Cornell

frosts can be devastating.

University from crossing Gewürztraminer with a numbered varietal. GILBERT & GAILLARD

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TRAVEL

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Wine in the heartland: discovering Indiana’s wines

INDIANA COMPRISES 55 WINERIES WHICH ARE EVENLY DISTRIBUTED ACROSS THE STATE This grape produces a semisweet, fruity, somewhat spicy white

museums and world-famous racetracks (the Indianapolis Motor

wine that in recent years has become a signature wine of the state.

Speedway and the O’Reilly Raceway Park), Mark and

Almost half of the winegrowers in Indiana now cultivate

Meredith Easley produce wines from grapes grown in the

Traminette. Despite the challenges, wineries are increasingly fashionable: 10 new wineries will open in the region this year, and almost 40 others are planned.

state. Some are cultivated in their own Ohio River vineyard, which dates from 1971 and was one of the first to be planted after the Prohibition era in the early 20th century. Even the Easley Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the region. The 2009 vintage, with 14 per cent Chambourcin, was one of

CAPITAL WINES

the best wines we discovered in Indiana, with good structure

At the limits of downtown Indianapolis, with its excellent

and a taste of fresh berries, mint and a hint of wood.

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TRAVEL

says, ”My son wants me to plant Zweigelt, too.” His Edelzwicker wine, a blend of the hybrid grapes Cayuga, Vidal and Vignoles, is the most interesting, with a mild taste of green fruit and fresh citrus. One of the state’s oldest and largest wineries is found deep in Southern Indiana - the Huber Winery. It delivers grapes to other producers, as well as making a range of its own wines. Their Stella di Luca dry rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon is very pleasant, with aromas of berry and herbs. One of their best wines is the HSR Heritage, an elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc barrel-aged for 20 months. We enjoyed a 2006 HSR Heritage with a perfectly cooked New York strip steak at the 1875 Steakhouse in the French Lick Springs Hotel and reflected on our luck to have discovered the wines of the Midwest. Text and photography: Hubrecht Duijker www.hubrechtduijker.com

MORE INFORMATION

DR CHARLES THOMAS, THE OWNER OF THE CHATEAU THOMAS WINERY

To find out more about winegrowing and wineries in Indiana, the site www.indianawines.org has a lot of useful information. Many winemakers also have their own websites. For travel information, visit www.visitindiana.com. The state’s forests are best to visit in autumn, when the leaves change colour.

Buck Creek Winery, just 20 minutes from the centre of Indianapolis, grows a quarter of its own grapes in a vineyard of almost 2 hectares. Another 25 per cent of its grapes come from other vineyards in Indiana, with the rest delivered mainly from the state of New York. To learn about winemaking, owner Jeff Durm, a former policeman, offered to work for free at the Chateau Thomas Winery when he started out. To fight against spring frosts, he lit campfires in the vineyards and kept them burning all night. Buck Creek wines, like the others in the state, are sweet: one is even made of rhubarb. Just north of Madison, Indiana, we met Steve Palmer, a sort of wine pioneer. He has a 5.6-hectare vineyard planted with the regionally rare Pinot Gris and the Austrian Grüner Veltliner. He

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WHERE TO STAY www.graygooseinn.com In Chesterton www.frenchlick.com/hotels/westBaden/ A fantastic resort hotel in West Baden Springs

FAMILY BUSINESS

www.wjdeutsch.com

Family Man: Bill Deutsch, WJ Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. To see all the Georges Duboeuf posters that appear all over the United States in late November excitedly proclaiming Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé!, one might be forgiven for thinking this is another corporate marketing campaign. One might think the same when seeing the cute advertisements of a beautiful young couple drinking Yellow Tail Shiraz in Italy. While one would be correct to surmise the marketing and advertising aspects of Georges Duboeuf and Yellow Tail, one would miss an essential component in their development: that these are family campaigns brought together by one family man, William Deutsch.

THE FAMILY LIFE

THE CORPORATE LIFE Deutsch came to the wine business from the corporate side. In 1961, he started working for Goldseal Vineyards in New York’s Finger Lake regions, which became an important importer of French wines to the US. After 14 years, Deutsch sensed the parent company Austin Nichols (of Wild Turkey Bourbon fame) wasn’t interested in the wine business. He left for Somerset Wine Company in 1975 and stayed there for five years, representing primarily the wines of Alexis Lichine. During this time Deutsch met Georges Duboeuf from Beaujolais and Jean Sauvion from the Loire Valley. In 1980, it became apparent that Somerset’s parent company Norton Simon didn’t want to remain in the wine business, either. With twenty years of wine industry in experience Deutsch decided to go on his own, figuring that if he could spend time selling wine rather than planning monthly corporate meetings, he might be able to carve out a niche for himself in the United States. Regarding corporations, which are prone to changing their focus, as unreliable, he decided to work only with family producers. “It seems that big [corporate] companies aren’t long-term players in the wine business. Family companies, are….their problems become our problems…”

Using his family’s laundry room in Chappaqua, New York as his office, Deutsch started WJ Deutsch in 1981. He had one employee: himself. Initially, he started with wines he represented at Somerset, Alexis Lichine, Jean Sauvion, etc, and started building his business.

DUBOEUF EST ARRIVÉ In 1982, he was approached by Georges Duboeuf, who he had met a few years earlier. Duboeuf knew that Deutsch was a start up business, but since Duboeuf was just entering the US market himself, the partnership might be symbiotic. Initially, Peter & Bill Deutsch Deutsch was only to handle the New York Tri-State are (New York, New Jersey, Connecticut), but within six months, he was given the whole East Coast. It wouldn’t be until 2000 that Deutsch acquired the national rights to George Duboeuf, but by 1989, the brand became the biggest selling French wine in the US. Other early opportunities came, based on personal relations and similar business sensibilities: Marcel Guigal asked Deutsch to represent J. Vidal-Fleury in 1982. In the same year, André Lurton approached Deutsch about representing Chateau Bonnet from Entre-Deux-Mers. A relationship with Italy’s Pozzi family in 1984 brought Villa Pozzi wines to the US, the most important being their Pinot Grigio labeled “La Francesca,” in honour of Bill Deutsch’s wife Frances. Other opportunities came, including one from director Francis Ford Coppola, who was introduced to Deutsch by Sam and Michael Aaron of New York’s famous wine shop Sherry-Lehmann (another family business). Coppola engaged Deutsch to represent his new wine Rubicon, as well as subsequent other wines. He did so from 1985 to 1999. ©ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

ill Deutsch, founder and Chairman of WJ Deutsch, never fails to mention the importance of family, not just for his own company, but also the people he does business with. “It’s just better to work with families. We can understand one another. Their problems become our problems, our problems become their problems, things just work better.”

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“LE BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU EST ARRIVÉ!” THE FAMILY GROWS Starting in 1985, Deutsch’s sons Stephen, now 51, and Peter, now 49, entered the business. A few years later, his daughter Susan (now 45) did, too. Their first jobs? Hitting the street, selling wine. Eventually, Stephen left the company; today, he works in the wine industry in the US South. Susan, who was a dynamic sales and marketing force for the company, has stepped back to raise her two children. Peter became Bill Deutsch’s right hand, and has since become president and CEO of the company, a symbol of his father’s trust and his proven business acumen.

HERE COME THE AUSSIES There is no better illustration of this acumen than the success of Yellow Tail. By 1997, the Deutsches, encouraged by Peter, searched for an Australian brand. Bill contacted the Australian Wine Commission in search of introductions, and was put in touch with John Casella, the owner of a modest Australian family winery in Australia. Sensing a certain simpatico, two smallish family wine companies, an importer and a producer, they concluded a long-term deal. Things didn’t go smoothly at first. The initial plan was to introduce a wine called “Carramar Estate.” In 1999, 25,000 cases of Carramar wine arrived in the US with faulty corks and all the wines were recalled back to Australia. Horrified, John Casella took responsibility for the problem and absorbed all the loses. He also offered Deutsch the opportunity to end their relationship. “I told him, no way,” says Deutsch. “He was an honest man who took complete responsibility for a mistake. That’s the sort of person we like to work with.” A year later, Casella reevaluated his product and proposed a new strategy with a new brand: Yellow Tail. The wine would be simple, just two varieties, Chardonnay and Shiraz, low in price, around $6, and carried a catchy label: a cartoon kangaroo (actually, a wallaby). Initially, Bill was sceptical, but Peter was enthusiastic, imagining that it would have immediate consumer appeal. No-one, neither Casella or either of the Deutsches, had any idea how much appeal. Estimates that they might sell 25,000 cases by the end of 2000 were off by almost ten-fold. They sold 225,000 cases, with retailers unable to keep it on the shelf. The

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FAMILY BUSINESS

growth has continued unabated. Today, the brand sells 8 million cases in the US (12 million worldwide), now divided across other varieties, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, different blends, and a sparkling wine. “It was completely unexpected,” says Deutsch. The Casella and Deutsch families are close. Of course, they have each made the other rich, but it is touching to see tears of pride well-up in Bill Deutsch’s eyes as he recalls attending the dedication of Yellow Tail’s new bottling plant, only to find a prominent plaque on the building dedicated to “WJ Deutsch & Family For Making It All Possible.”

THE LEGACY The honours have continued for Deutsch. In 1986, he was give the Ordre du Mérite Agricole, and was elevated to a higher level of award in 1992. He was Market Watch Industry Leader of the Year, 2006, and, soon, he will receive perhaps the grandest honour of all possible in the wine world, to knighted as a Chévalier de la Légion d’Honneur by the President of the French Republic in 2011. Of course, not everything has been a success. Some relationships didn’t pan out, notably a misinformed decision to partner with the now defunct California winery Renwood. “We discovered the man we partnered with was dishonest. So, although we invested $1 million, we pulled out.” A failed relationship over distribution of Pommery after the brand was purchased by Vranken has been in litigation for a few years. As of this interview, there was signs that a settlement was coming, and, that they might be doing business again. “A handshake gave me hope, but we’ll see.” Deutsch, who recovered from a serious automobile accident at the end of 2010, is near retirement, but his legacy has extended to his family. In the family business since 1985, his son Peter has cultivated the same relations as his father. The company continues to expand. It now represents 26 different family wineries from nine countries, and, it has now created a separate spirits division handling three brands. Starting with one employee, the company now has 185, and there is no end in sight. “So long as family comes first, everything will be fine,” says Deutsch. Jamal Rayyis

BRANDS REPRESENTED BY WJ DEUTSCH & SONS, LTD. Australia - [ yellow tail ], [ yellow tail ] Bubbles, [ yellow tail ] Reserve Argentina - Ruta 22 California - Kunde Family Estate, Girard, Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Windsor Sonoma Winery Chile - Llai Llai France - Andre Lurton, Georges Duboeuf, HobNob, Patch Block, Pierre Sparr, Sauvion, Vidal-Fleury Italy - Barone Fini, Lionello Marchesi, Villa Pozzi New Zealand - The Crossings Portugal - Quinta do Vale Meao Spain - Cruz de Alba, Mar de Frades, Ramon Bilbao, Volteo

HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

Italy’s indigenous grape varieties

Italy is one of the world’s foremost and

oldest producers of wine. Like Portugal, Italy

grows among the largest number of grape

varieties, some of which have been neglected elsewhere. Italian vineyards cover 800,000 hectares and can be found everywhere in the country, including the islands. There are more than 400 different grape varieties grown on the Italian peninsula, apart from the international varieties of Chardonnay, Cabernet, Pinot Noir and Merlot. In Italy and other Mediterranean countries, local grapes are referred to as ”native” varieties, so let’s take a look at Italy’s natives. In the days of ancient Greece (800-146 BCE), the Greeks called Italy Oenotria, which means ”the land of wines.” Winegrowing and winemaking is a tradition that dates back thousands of years and is found across the country; wine has been an integral part of daily life in Italy for millennia. Until the end of the Second World War, most Italian wines, apart GILBERT & GAILLARD

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Delphine Veissière

We take a look at the wealth of local grape varities to be found in this ancient Mediterranean wine-producing country.

HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

IN ITALY, LOCAL VARIETIES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN DEEPLY EMBEDDED IN THE LOCAL AGRARIAN SYSTEM

from those from Tuscany and Piedmont, were sold mainly in bulk.

When looking at the characteristics of local grape varieties, it

Imported wines were long considered primarily for the elite.

is important to make certain distinctions. ”Native” varieties come from wild grapes that have been ”domesticated” (such

Understanding Italian wines and their diversity involves delving

as Lambrusco Viadanese and Groppello Ruberti), as opposed

into the country’s history of regional cultivation and winemaking.

to ancient or modern varieties, the most recent of which are

Although Italian wines made from international varieties can

essentially Cabernets, Pinots and Chardonnay.

be interesting, they don’t reflect the terroir in the same way, and they lack a strong regional oenological ”fingerprint”. Take

From north to south, each Italian winegrowing region (there

the Super Tuscans, made from a ”Bordeaux” blend of Cabernet

are 21, including more than 360 DOC and DOCG appellations)

Sauvignon and Merlot - although they are excellent examples

is identified with a predominant local variety that is a true

of territorial expression, equal to certain Grand Cru Classé

expression of the terroir. These include Sangiovese, a red grape

French wines, they don’t have the distinctive style of Tuscan

native to Tuscany and the most cultivated variety in Italy

wines made from local varieties.

(86,000 hectares), followed by the white grape Catarratto in Sicily, Tuscan Trebbiano in central Italy, Barbera in Piedmont

There are around 5,000 grape varieties currently cultivated

(a qualitatively inferior variety compared to Nebbiolo),

around the world, adding up to some 40,000 different names

Negroamaro in Puglia, the red varieties of central and southern

in all their translations. In Italy, local varieties have always

Italy, Montepulciano, Trebbiano Romagnolo and Primitivo in

been deeply embedded in the local agrarian system. The cultivation

the south, as well as the white grape Malvasia. The cultivation

of different grape varieties remains connected to the environment

of international varieties has followed trends: Pinots in the

and the local agricultural customs, as well as to local drinking

1970s, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet in the

habits and needs. Does that mean that certain varieties introduced

1980s, and Syrah in the 1990s. Central Italy in particular,

to a region more than 50 years ago are ”local” varieties? For

which previously mainly grew relatively mediocre Sangiovese

example, in Lazio, Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced by

and Trebbiano, has invested heavily in planting international

Venetian families during Mussolini’s regime in the framework

varieties. These are potentially profitable due to the large

of a programme to reclaim the region’s swamps.

volumes produced, but costly. This has unfortunately led continued on page 86

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ADVERTORIAL

Nino Negri estate Since 1897, Nino Negri, the leading producer of Valtellina wines, has won an impressive array of prizes. In addition to 13 years of superb wines, in 2003 it was awarded best Italian red for its 2001 vintage.

his year, it was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator and 94 points by Parker. The 5 Stelle Nino Negri has long been synonymous with the highest quality of

the nebbiolo variety in Valtellina and is one of the top 30 wines to represent Italian viticulture on the world stage. Wine Spectator also gave 90 points to the Inferno Mazèr 2001. Adjudicated a Three Glass champion by the Gambero Rosso guide for three years in a row, the traditional Sfursat has earned a place in the ranks of major prize winners. It is testimony to the fact the quality of the house of Nino Negri is not just limited to its selections but starts with its basic lines. Over the last few years, the estate has collected a series of 5 bunch trophies from the AIS for its world-famous 5 stelle and its Vigneto Fracia. In 2008, Casimiro Maule (above) was voted best oenologist in Italy. The production of great wines requires great commitment and continuous investment. Nino Negri is the proud holder of two certifications: ISO 9000 and ISO 14000. The first of these monitors the way the estate is managed. Its objective is to ensure that the regulations governing all the vinification processes are in place to enhance the final product for the consumer. The second certification is environmental and ensures that the estate respects its natural surroundings and abides by strict regulations designed to limit any pollution not only in the cellar’s production processes but also on the farm. The aim is to improve the quality of the wines but above all the quality of the working environment and the territory.

hectares with new clonal selections of nebbiolo (chiavennasca) and new planting systems. Our wines are available in restaurants in 23 countries, a tribute to the quality we offer.

CASIMIRO MAULE, OENOLOGIST 36 growing years amount to a life of sacrifice for a man. They also amount to a lifetime of invaluable experience; a life lived among the vineyards in contact with nature, its aromas and the moods of the earth. 36 years leave their mark on the eyes, the mind, the heart and the hands. They form a man’s character, the evolution of a wine and a territory. Here, they are the steps in the existential journey of a gentleman, an oenologist, a dominant figure in the world of wine: Casimiro Maule. Today Maule runs and manages Nino Negri. He headed the Consortium for the Protection of Valtellina Wines for 13 years, where he changed the way wine is made the valley. All credit goes to Maule for the success of Valtellina wines in Italy and overseas and for the Valley’s DOCG designation. His wines, his Sforzato 5 Stelle, have achieved cult status, recognised and commended worldwide. “..to maintain these standards … we must study and know the nebbiolo variety in Valtellina inside out, starting with the soil in which it grows … in the past, we would allow the earth to rest for a certain time, now … we work these terrains continuously. The soil … needs turning and nourishing. We must start to plan targeted and programmed interventions that will ensure the earth is constantly nourished.” ■

NINO NEGRI Cantina: Via Ghibellini, 3 - 23030- Chiuro (Sondrio) Tel. +39 0342 485211 Fax +39 0342 482235 www.ninonegri.it

Modern techniques combined with absolute respect for tradition allow us to obtain the very best from our nebbiolo grapes, resulting in wines that are extremely pleasing, elegant and excellent in quality. Between 1997 and 2005 Nino Negri replanted 11 of its 34 GILBERT & GAILLARD

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HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

winegrowers to neglect local but less well-known varieties with good yields such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Colorino and the white grape Grechetto. Three regions dominate national wine production: Veneto, Tuscany and Piedmont. Tuscany, with 3 million hectolitres of wine per year, produces fine wines mainly from Sangiovese, which is sometimes blended with Canaiolo and Colorino for colour. Piedmont, the home of Nebbiolo, also produces well-known wines. However, Veneto (particularly Verona and Vicenza) is Italy’s top producer of grapes and wine, making up around 20% of total national production. The main grapes in this region are local varieties, such as Corvina (the majority), Molinara and Rondinella, which are blended in Veneto’s most famous wine, Amarone. Nonetheless, 60% of the wines produced in Veneto are Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) table wines, as opposed to 40% from DOC or DOCG appellations. But it would be misleading to suggest that Italian wine can be summed up by this trio of regions. As the country’s many local varieties attest, there are a wealth of small appellations to be discovered, where auteurs delight wine lovers with rare vintages characteristic of the terroir. Some true oenological treasures are produced by ‘undiscovered’ estates, like those, for example, near the Swiss-Italian border in the region of Valtellina, which were founded by wealthy Swiss families originally from Grison. Here, the Piedmont variety Nebbiolo is king, and it receives the careful attention of growers who cultivate it on steep mountain terraces.

VALTELLINA WINES

CASIMIRO MAULE, NINO NEGRI’S OENOLOGIST FOR THE PAST 40 YEARS 86

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Vineyards appeared in Valtellina, located in northern Italy in the mountainous area of Lombardy, from the 9th century. Unusually, they are planted at 800 - 1300 metres altitude and face south, southeast and southwest. There is little information about the grape varieties that were cultivated here before the end of the 16th century. That period brought the emergence of tenant farming contracts, in which we can begin to identify certain white and red grape varieties such as Chiavennasca, Pignola, Rossola Dura, Berzemina or Bressana. The development in the quality and quantity of Valtellina wines was directly linked to the development of its sales to the neighbouring Swiss canton of Grison. Today Valtellina (which includes appellations such as DOC Valtellina or the prestigious DOCG Sfursat) produces fine red wines from Nebbiolo grapes (locally still called Chiavennasca), a variety originally from Piedmont (more specifically the hilly area of Langhe) and used in the

Italy’s indigenous grape varieties

NINO NEGRI SEEKS OUT THE BEST EXPRESSION OF NEBBIOLO, THE LOCAL VARIETY PAR EXCELLENCE

famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Nebbiolo offers a good balance of alcohol and acidity, which, along with its bouquet and delicate yet characteristic taste, often results in wines with great ageing potential. In Valtellina, Nebbiolo makes up 90% of the vines; here the grape is more authentic and older than its Piedmont cousin because it has been less subjected to cloning, and as a result has undergone less transformation. Yet not all wines made from Nebbiolo are unconditionally exceptional. For a successful vintage, it is crucial that the grapes ripen gradually, ideally during hot days and cool nights. They contain limited amounts of anthocyanins, the majority of which are ”cianinas”, which tend to cause insoluble precipitation during the first hours of fermentation. Nebbiolo often has an orangey colour; in order to stabilise it, it is necessary to promote the polymerisation of the tannins with the anthocyanins at a fermentation temperature near 35°C and frequently aerate the wine using remontage (there are certain exceptions, for example, at the Nino Negri winery). The resulting wines are obviously different from those of the past, and generally have a shorter maturing time. On the other hand, they are very successful on the international market.

Crisscrossing Valtellina, one cannot help but be awed by the amazing sight of vineyards cultivated on terraces dug into dolomite rock at altitudes of 260 - 900 metres. This has been described as ”extreme” viticulture, the harvests carried out exclusively by hand on each small terrace, and the grapes transported to the wineries by helicopter. The famous Sforzato, or sfursat in the local dialect, is one of the rare wines, along with Veneto’s Amarone, to be made from dried grapes. The grapes are harvested a bit earlier for this wine in order to ensure they are in good condition. They are then placed in small wooden crates with a capacity of 4-5 kg and dried in naturally ventilated rooms until December 10th of the harvest year. This process of dehydration leads to a relatively high concentration of sugar in the wine, while preserving the substances that supply its aromas and colour. The resulting wine is generally powerful, with olfactory and taste complexity, and pairs well with rich foods or desserts. The Nino Negri winery was the first to open its doors in Valtellina in 1897, and itself bears witness to the development of winemaking in region. Casimiro Maule, the estate’s oenologist for the past 40 years, has a very territorial approach to wine.

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HISTORY OF THE VINEYARDS

As opposed to ”modern” wineries such as Fay or Mamete Prevostini, Nino Negri seeks out the best expression of Nebbiolo, the local variety par excellence. The wines produced here are often distinguished by their origin from one of the four regional DOC and DOCG appellations (Sassella, Grumello, Valgella and Inferno) and are a reflection of the vine and the exposition of the vineyard. This is enhanced further in Nino Negri wines, as Nebbiolo is not blended with other varieties and remontage is avoided by the use of tanks equipped with oxygenating systems. The maceration of the grapes is brief; the maturation in barrels is rapid and is carried out in new French oak barrels made from aged wood that has been exposed to the open air for at least 30 months, so the wood flavour is less invasive. This retains the natural characteristics of the Nebbiolo grape, ensuring that the fruit is not dominated by the oak. The original bite of this grape variety offers a sensation on the palate that is both powerful and smooth. The wines are not filtered and do not undergo cold stabilisation. Apart from 2009 Ca’ Brione, a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Nino Negri wines are monovarietal reds, made exclusively from Nebbiolo. In our tasting at the Nino Negri winery, the 2005 and 2007 vintages came out best, particularly for the middle-range wines: for example, 2007 Vigneto Fracia and 2007 Inferno Valtellina Superiore. In the top range, we liked 2005 Riserva Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2007 and 1999 Sassorosso Valtellina Superiore. We also enjoyed the excellent and very elegant 2007 Sfursat 5 Stelle - powerful, fruity and concentrated, worthy of certain Burgundy Pinot Noirs. Apart from the presence of red fruit (cherry) or black fruit (blackberry), whose level of ripeness depends on the wine, the unifying threads running through Nino Negri wines are their mineral aromas and flavours alongside liquorice, hints of menthol and balsamic, good concentration and powerful and smooth tannins. Added to this in the case of Sfursat are the olfactory and taste sensations obtained by using dried grapes, which results in a higher level of alcohol and an impressive complexity. The Swiss Triacca winery also produces different types and qualities of Nebbiolo red wines, including the interesting

2005 Sfursat Valtellina Superiore and the surprising dessert

IN NINO NEGRI WINES, NEBBIOLO IS NOT BLENDED WITH OTHER VARIETIES 88

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wine 2009 Moscato del Presidente, so called because it was the favourite of the former President of Italy, Carlo Azeglio Ciampi. It is a lightly fortified red wine made from Moscato Rosa (which is also cultivated in the regions of Friuli and Trentino) and has a fruity and fresh bouquet and palate, with the scent and taste of rose. It is available in limited quantities. By Delphine Veissière

REGION

DO Ribera del Duero: A Spanish stand-out

Officially, the Denominación de Origen (DO) of Ribera del Duero was created on 21 July 1982 by an organisation of wine producers determined to promote the quality of their wines and to apply enforceable regulatory standards. In fact, winemaking in Ribera del Duero dates back to the Roman era, over 2,000 years ago, as evidenced by the recent discovery of a 66-metre mosaic of Bacchus, the god of wine, unearthed at Baños de Valdearados.

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REGION

n the Middle Ages, new vineyards were planted at various monasteries, including the Cistercian monastery of Valbuena de Duero (the first to arrive in the region in the 12th century), when the Benedictines of Cluny in Burgundy spurred a revival in the production of local wine.

wines were highly regarded and were exported at the height of the Spanish Empire during the 17th and 18th centuries. More recently, in 1864, the Fondation de la Bodega Vega Sicilia defined the quality standards for the region before the official creation of the DO over a century later.

Ribera’s underground cellars with their distinctive fireplaces were constructed in the 13th century in the towns of the region, where they still serve to protect wine from the extremes of the climate. Wine grew to become an important factor in the economic and cultural development of Ribera, facilitating trade with other regions in Spain and giving rise to the first Spanish regulations concerning wine quality, the Ordinances of Castilla y León, in the 15th century. Ribera

GEOGRAPHY

The Ribera del Duero winegrowing region is located on a plateau in northern Spain about an hour and a half from Madrid. It spreads over four provinces in Castilla y León: Burgos, Segovia, Soria and Valladolid. Ribera means ‘riverbank’; the region borders a horizontal stretch of the Duero River for 150 kilometres (93 miles) from east to west, and extends 35 kilometres (22 miles) from north to south.

THE RIBERA DEL DUERO WINEGROWING REGION IS LOCATED ON A PLATEAU IN NORTHERN SPAIN ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF FROM MADRID 90

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DO Ribera del Duero: A Spanish stand-out

LARGEST CITIES

inches) a year, with very limited summer rainfall, also contributes

Aranda del Duero, Burgos, Peñafiel, Roa, San Esteban de Gormaz, Segovia, Valladolid

to ideal ripening conditions.

CLIMATE The unique climate of this region is perfectly suited to winegrowing particularly for red wines. Influenced by both the Mediterranean and Continental climates, Ribera is marked by extremes. It includes the highest average altitude in Europe for red grape varieties and has hot summers, cold winters, a short growing season, little rainfall and diverse types of soil. Combined, these conditions result in the production of excellent wines. The short, hot summers have daily temperatures ranging from 10-15.5°C (50-60°F) at night to over 38°C (100°F) during the day. Rapid daily temperature fluctuations during the growing season permit the grapes to ripen in ideal health during the day and allow balanced acidity and aromatic complexity to develop during the night. The moderate to low level of rainfall, averaging about 40 cm (16

On average, the vineyards of Ribera grow at about 760-850 metres (2,500-2,800 feet) above sea level, although some vineyards are found above 945 metres (3,100 feet). The soil conditions are virtually perfect for viticulture, and include a range of soil types, from the riverbanks to the steepest slopes. The soils nearest the river are alluvial, consisting of clay and reddish sand. As the altitude increases, alternate layers of chalk, shale and limestone are a notable characteristic; there are several exceptional vineyards on sites with chalk soils.

TEMPLE OF TEMPRANILLO The main grape variety in Ribera is Tempranillo, which is known locally as Tinto Fino or Tinta del País. Tempranillo is an early-ripening variety (in Spanish, temprano means ”early”) that ideally suits the short growing season and the extreme conditions of the region.

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REGION

This combination of power and elegance is the hallmark of Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero and has been a major contributor to its excellent international reputation.

MAIN GRAPE VARIETIES Reds: Tempranillo (also known as Tinto Fino and Tinta del País) makes up 95% of all production; Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 1%; Merlot, Grenache (Garnacha Tinta) and Malbec together make up less than1%.

Whites: Albillo makes up 3% of all production.

BODEGAS IMPERIALES IS A MAJOR PLAYER IN DO RIBERA DEL DUERO

DO Ribera del Duero implements rigorous quality control measures. During the harvest, an inspector is assigned to each bodega by the Regulating Council of DO Ribera del Duero, the body that supervises all aspects of the winegrowing and winemaking processes in the DO. The council regulates the origin of the grapes, the varieties used and in what percentages, the growing methods of the vineyard including the pruning technique, the density of the yield, the vinification, the level of alcohol and the labelling of the bottle. In practice, the wineries always surpass the council’s established standards in their search for quality.

Widely planted and much loved in Spain, Tempranillo results in well-balanced red wines, with good colour and acidity, and a fresh and fruity bouquet of appealing aromas such as black plum, cherry and liquorice.

RIBERA WINES

PENAFIEL CASTLE SERVED AS A PALACE AND PRISON, BEFORE 1917. NOW OWNED BY THE MAYOR OF PEÑAFIEL, IT IS OPEN TO VISITORS AND HOUSES A WINE MUSEUM 92

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

DO Ribera del Duero: A Spanish stand-out

CATEGORIES OF WINE PRODUCED Joven, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva and Rosado • Joven: wines that have not been matured in oak casks (joven means ”young” in Spanish). However, ”Joven Roble” and ”Joven Barrica” are interchangeable terms that refer to wines that have been aged for a short period of three to six months in oak barrels, and bottled not long after being harvested. All the wines with this classification are fruity, lively and best drunk when young. • Crianza: wines that have been aged for two years, spending a minimum of twelve months in oak barrels (crianza means ”aged” in Spanish). These wines can be released after the 1st of October, two years after being harvested. They have well-balanced tannins and a full-bodied and smooth mouth feel. • Reserva: wines that have been aged for three years, spending a minimum of twelve months in oak barrels. These wines cannot be put on the market until after the 1st of October, three years after being harvested. After twelve months in oak barrels, Reserva wines are bottled and then stored in the bodega’s wine cellar, producing wines that are ready to drink as soon as they are on the market. They are elegant, sumptuous and intense, with a long and persistent finish. • Gran Reserva: wines of exceptional quality, aged for at least 60 months, spending a minimum of 24 months in oak barrels, followed by a period of bottle aging. The wines are authorised to be released after the 1st of October, five years after being harvested. After 24 months in oak barrels, Gran Reserva wines are bottled and then stored in the bodega’s wine cellar. They are complex, structured and very well balanced, with remarkable vitality. • Rosado: or rosé wines, are fermented without the grape skins and are available soon after harvest.

PRODUCTION Maximum yield: 7,000 kilogrammes/hectare (3.1 tonnes/hectare) Average yield over the last 22 years: 3,600 kilogrammes/hectare (1.6 tonnes/hectare) Vineyard area: 20,500 hectares Total wineries (2008): 249 Average annual production: 70,302,378 kilogrammes of grapes

MAJOR WINERIES Vega Sicilia, Dominio de Pingus, Mauro, Bodega Imperiales (Abadia de San Quirce), Prado Rey, Aalto, Telmo Rodríguez, Bodega Vizcarra Ramos. Christophe Chapillon Zaragoza, Spain

OUR PICKS These wines were tasted at the Fenavin Spanish Wine Fair in Ciudad Real, 10-12 May 2011 91/100 Castillo de Mendoza Reserva (TINTO, 2005) Grape variety: Tempranillo Appellation: DOCa Rioja Nose of small black fruits. A firm and concentrated palate of very ripe fruit; tannins are present, but the balance is good. The finish is a bit firm.

90/100 Marqués de Griñón (TINTO, 2006) Grape variety: Petit Verdot Appellation: VP Dominio de Valdepusa Nose of wet soil. A sweetish palate of fruit, with a rather concentrated finish and a hint of firmness.

90/100 Juan Gil 12 Meses (TINTO, 2009) Grape variety: Monastrell Appellation: DO Jumilla Price: 5-10 euros Clean nose of red fruit with hints of black fruit. On the palate, the fruit is slightly overripe, but retains good concentration, with firm but pleasant tannins. The finish is more powerful.

89/100 Arrayán Selección (TINTO, 2007) Grape varieties: Syrah, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon Appellation: DO Méntrida Price: 2-5 euros A firm, fruity, tannic attack. The blend of varieties makes the aftertaste appealingly fruity.

88/100 Abadía Retuerta Selección Especial (TINTO, 2008) Grape varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo (Cencibel) Appellation: VT Castilla y León Price: 5-10 euros Nose of red fruit, still slightly closed. On the palate, the attack is sweetish, evolving to firmer fruit. Pleasant.

88/100 Clan Barrica 10 Meses (TINTO, 2007) Grape variety: Prieto Picudo Appellation: VT Castilla y León Price: 5-10 euros A rather firm palate of slightly overripe fruit that gives an impression of heat. The oak is still too present; merits a wait.

88/100 L’Ame Malbec (TINTO, 2008) Grape varieties: Borba, Albillo, Albilla, Pardina, Malbec Appellation: VT Castilla Price: 5-10 euros Nose of red fruit, still slightly closed. The palate is smooth, simple and pleasant, without a big personality. Slight aftertaste.

88/100 Uva Nocturna 6 Meses (TINTO, 2007) Grape variety: Garnacha Appellation: VT Ribera del Gállego-Cinco Villas Price: 5-10 euros An oaky attack, with a firm evolution followed by fruit. However, overall, the palate is rather light and the oak flavour remains very present.

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

WINE AND FOOD

www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr

Gilles Goujon: collecting stars At the age of 10, Gilles Goujon was deeply affected by the death of his father - as a result, he rejected the world of adults. Later in life, he chose to train as a chef, a profession for which he revealed an unexpected talent. Not content to work side by side with some of France’s best chefs, Goujon decided to go out on his own, and in 1992 created a restaurant in Fontjoncouse in Languedoc-Roussillon. Today, the rocky start of this enterprise is long forgotten, replaced by awards ranging from Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman in France) in 1996, his first Michelin star in 1997, a second in 2001, and the ultimate recognition, his third Michelin star, in 2010. Respect!

bove all, Gilles Goujon is passionate: he loves life, other people and, naturally, food. A chef has to enjoy sharing, and Goujon doesn’t scrimp on singing the

praises of his team. He is very aware that awards are earned by a

team of which the chef is the captain.

Nonetheless, a chef is a chef, and Goujon is an exemplary case.

without mincing his words, ”We shouldn’t have to accept criticism

Everything must be perfectly organised - and if it isn’t, he will

from other countries. In fact, Paul Bocuse got French chefs out

say something about it. His rants in the kitchen reflect his

of their kitchens, their restaurants, their cities and their country.

desire for perfection and his limitless love for French cuisine,

Thanks to him, cooking has become more accessible, and chefs

which for him represents the most creative style of cooking, and

from France and around the world have fallen in behind him.

equally benefits from having the most hindsight. As he asserts

So it’s difficult to listen to the criticism we hear today.”

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SUMMER 2011

Gilles Goujon: collecting stars

RESTAURANT GILLES GOUJON - AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS

For his part, he didn’t have a foolproof plan when he came to

after he obtained the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (1996),

Fontjoncouse in 1992. He visited an auberge that he found

followed by his first Michelin star (1997). Gilles Goujon found

tempting, even if the previous establishment had just gone out

himself back on track, and would only move forward from there,

of business and some building work was required. The premises

winning a second star in 2001 and a third in 2010.

belonged to the town hall, the rent was low and there were no major overheads such as personnel to consider. He told himself

We’ll leave it to him to conclude: ”I believe that we have never

that things would work out. The day the restaurant opened, the local

eaten so well in France as today. Many talented young chefs are

press reported that around 12 people came for lunch. A modest start.

starting their own restaurants and doing exceptional work. The Michelin Guide has understood this and is increasingly taking

FROM ZERO DINERS TO THREE STARS

note of small establishments with impressive savoir-faire. Today, we’re seeing the incredible effect of the ”food movement”, and

The following weeks and months were even less reassuring; the

our profession is among the most dynamic. There are always new

restaurant was empty every evening, despite Gilles and his wife

challenges to face, which leads me to believe that we have not yet

Marie-Christine lighting it up like the château of Versailles to try

reached the apogee of culinary art, there are still so many things

to lure in the locals. The rare customers who came through the

to achieve. The advice I would give to young chefs is to keep the

door were treated like kings, with Goujon eager to prove the

faith, even when things get difficult, and not to give up. As for

quality of his cuisine. It would take two years of sacrifice and

me, I have been lucky in having a team behind me that always

unwavering courage before the first signs of change came in

believed in what I was doing and a wife who has supported me

1994. Then, by participating in the French television programme

unconditionally.”

Savoir Plus in 1995, the chef established his reputation, and soon

Gilbert & Gaillard See the recipe and the wine list on pages 96 and 97 GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

WINE AND FOOD

RECIPE

Barely cooked Palamós prawns on a bed of parmesan crumble and Marmande tomatoes, with an herb vinaigrette of olive oil and lemon confit.

Ingredients

Method

• 8 large Palamós prawns • 400 g crushed dried tomatoes • 10 cl reduced tomato juice • 100 g parmesan crumble • 10 cl cream of shellfish

• Grill the prawns. • While they are cooking: • Add a bed of crushed, warm dried tomatoes to the centre of a rectangular plate. • Sprinkle the parmesan crumble over the bed of tomatoes. • Draw a line of cream of shellfish and a line of reduced tomato juice across the plate; place small domes of vinaigrette in each corner. • Remove the tails from the prawns and place them on the tomato crumble. • Garnish with several herb sprigs.

250 g HERB VINAIGRETTE: • 5 cl lemon juice • 100 g diced tomatoes • 50 g chopped shallots • 30 g diced lemon confit • 150 g olive oil • ½ bunch of fresh coriander • ½ bunch of dill • ½ bunch of chives Mix the ingredients; add salt and pepper

GILBERT & GAILLARD

Note: At L’Auberge du Vieux Puits, this dish is accompanied by a tomato sorbet and a circular apple straw.

Serve with a good white wine from Corbières: for example, Ollieux Romanis or La Voulte Gasparets

SUMMER 2011

Gilles Goujon: collecting stars

THE WINE LIST Before becoming head sommelier at L'Auberge du Vieux Puits, Frédéric Sénéchal worked in several prestigious Parisian Frédéric Sénéchal restaurants. He trained as a sommelier at the Ledoyen in Paris, has worked with the chef Ghislaine Arabian, and also spent time at the restaurants Laurent and Trianon Palace, climbing the ladder with each move. He has been at L'Auberge since March 2007. His wine list offers an amazing journey around Languedoc-Roussillon, with more good bottles in all three colours than you can taste. For devotees of Bordeaux wines, the best are all available, as well as the most prestigious Champagnes. And if you really want to go mad, a 1989 Romanée-Conti is patiently waiting for you!

Carrus farm egg with black truffle on a purée of mushrooms and Italian white truffles, warm briochine and cappuccino RESTAURANT GILLES GOUJON AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS 5, Av St Victor - 11360 Fontjoncouse - France Tel. +33 (0)4 68 44 07 37 - www.aubergeduvieuxpuits.fr

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

WINE GROWER PORTRAITS

www.avondalewine.co.za

Johnathan Grieve: South African creator of nature-friendly wines Avondale proprietor Johnathan Grieve has a unique “bio-logical” approach to making organic wine in the Klein Drakenstein area.

ith his fine arts background and a fascination for the interaction between science and nature, 34 year-old South African Johnathan Grieve is no ordinary wine producer. Applying a knowledge of organic and biodynamic farming principles at Avondale, he crafts a range of nature-friendly wines that have earned him respect, both locally and abroad. Growing up on a smallholding near Cape Town, Johnathan started farming at an early age, planting and growing vegetables that he sold to friends and family. He spent his holidays working at the family health food business founded by his grand parents, and developed an interest in a balanced approach to life.

All aspects of the natural environment are taken into account, from the tiniest microbes in the soil to the position of specific star clusters in the night sky; the entire farm is viewed as a living system that has to be in total equilibrium to support and produce balanced vines, grapes and wine. No chemicals are used. Pests and diseases are addressed using natural remedies such as ladybugs and natural bacterias, while snails are kept in check by a squad of Peking ducks: “we want nature to do the work for us,” says Johnthan, whose estate has been certified organic since 2001.

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SUMMER 2011

He spent four years studying fine art (his sculptures and paintings decorate the main buildings), but when his parents bought Avondale in 1999, Johnathan jumped in and began working as an apprentice viticulturist. He felt that the conventional farming methods employed at the estate until that time were inadequate the land was simply not alive enough to encourage great wines - and so he began experimenting with different farming methods. This led to the development of Avondale's unique “bio-logic” farming approach, combining organic and biodynamic principles with modern science to put life back into the soil.

“IT'S BEEN TWO YEARS NOW THAT EVERYTHING AT AVONDALE IS IN HARMONY”

Johnathan Grieve: South African creator of nature-friendly wines

”WHEN MY FAMILY ACQUIRED AVONDALE IN 1997, WE HAD A DREAM THAT ONE DAY WE WOULD MAKE PREMIUM QUALITY WINES”

Avondale's motto, Terra Est Vita, means “soil is life”: it encapsulates Johnathan's view of his estate as a dynamic living system where soil, water and energy, plants, animals and people are all part of a complex network of relationships, interconnected and interdependent. “For the land and the business to thrive, every aspect of our living system must also thrive; in everything we do, we uphold the key principle of life, to constantly create conditions conducive to more life,” he explains; “it's been two years now that everything at Avondale is in harmony.” This harmony is evident: visitors are greeted by a riot of colour provided by a stunning variety of ultra-healthy plants, shrubs, bushes and flowers grown around the attractive farm buildings. The vineyards are home to cover crops such as lupins, wild sage and clover, while 20 pairs of barn owls (important for keeping down snakes and rodents) breed in houses made from old barrels, situated around the vineyard amongst the eucalyptus trees. The estate's 100 hectares of vines are planted in one-hectare blocks, matching soil types to grape varieties, and every block

is managed individually, then vinified separately and slowly (6 - 8 months fermentation is standard) in an ultra-modern, 500-ton capacity cellar built deep in a dry riverbed, where gravityflow ensures that grapes are moved with minimum mechanical intervention. Finally, the individual parts are brought together at blending stage to create Avondale's unique range of wines that are low in sulphur (less than half the norm), but full of vitality and energy. To learn more about Johnathan's vision, visit his blog at www.biologicwine.co.za Louise Hurren

AVONDALE JOHNATHAN GRIEVE Klein Drakenstein - Paarl - South Africa Po Box 602 - Paarl South - 7624 Tel. +27 (0)21 863 1976 www.avondalewine.co.za

GILBERT & GAILLARD

SUMMER 2011

GILBERT & GAILLARD goes global!

JAPAN

US & UK

CHINA

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the first wine guides in English, in Chinese and Japanese created by French wine experts

e are very proud to be able to reach an entirely new audience of wine lovers to present the best of French winemaking. The three guides will also serve as an excellent pro-

motional tool for our winemakers in an increasingly competitive market. Look out for this world first in the autumn of 2011".

w w w. g i l b e r t g a i l l a r d . c o m

ORGANIC NEWS

Do organic wines age well?

Jean Natoli

This question in fact depends on several others: is an organic wine produced in an identical way to a non-organic wine? If so, there is no reason that there should be a difference in its ability to age. Does lack of sulfites, or less sulfites, have an impact on the lifespan of a bottle of wine? If the wine is microbiologically stable, aging should not be affected. As the subject requires a detailed analysis rather than a simple answer, we refer to an expert in the matter, Jean Natoli.

efore we look at whether or not organic wines age well, it is important to define what we mean by ”ageing” in reference to wine. Some wine labels carry the message ”aged in oak”, which I always find jarring, because in my mind, wine is not aged in barrels, but matured. Although the terms are often used synonymously, the stage of elaboration that takes place after fermentation and before bottling focuses on bringing out the wine’s qualities to their best advantage. In French, the term is élevage, which literally means ”raising” or ”bringing up”. Strictly speaking, ”to age” is to deteriorate, whereas ”to mature” is to be in a process of development. The idea behind élevage is to improve the wine, not to diminish it. Given this definition, we can discuss the various ways that winemakers mature their wines: in stainless steel tanks, in new or old oak barrels, in bottles, with reducing agents, using micro-oxidation, and so on. So we can see that what ”maturing” a wine actually means depends on the winemaker and the wine they wish to make. In my opinion, this distinction seems important.

By definition, once bottled, a well-produced wine should be protected from oxygen, its biggest enemy (apart from certain

With that said, let’s get back to the initial question, which is more specifically about the development of organic wine once it is bottled and purchased by the consumer. For those who have read my previous articles, you will know that making organic wine imposes certain constraints on the winemaker that can have a critical impact on the outcome. If these requirements are met when the wine is bottled - that is, it has analytical stability, a balanced taste, the desired level of concentration and volatile acidity, a healthy microbial state, and so on - there is no reason that a quality organic wine should age any differently than a fine conventional wine.

THIS ORGANIC CHEVERNY HAS EXCELLENT ABILITY TO AGE GILBERT & GAILLARD

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ORGANIC NEWS

specific wines such as Xérès sherry, or vin jaune and vin de voile, which are wines matured under a film of yeast). On the other hand, a wine of lesser quality that is insufficiently microbiologically stable or is unprotected during the bottling process could start to deteriorate relatively quickly. Of course, this decline in quality is not exclusive to organic wines. So the true response to the question of whether an organic wine ages well essentially depends on the winemaker and the wine.

Only objectively tasting a well-chosen aged wine will give the end consumer the answer. Another worthwhile question we could pose might be, ”Why wait, sometimes a very long time, before drinking a wine?” I confess that this is often my feeling; apart from the excitement we might experience drinking a vintage wine, too many wines are drunk too late, when they are no longer at their best. And that’s often a pity! Jean Natoli Consultant oenologist and organic winemaker President of Vino Latino

OUR PICKS Here is our selection of French organic wines (and wines from wineries in the process of conversion) that received the best scores in our recent tastings (at least 90/100). They are categorised by winegrowing region, by appellation and by score. You can also refer to our tasting notes on our website www.gilbertgaillard.com or now on your smartphone.

Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer A.C. 92/100 Sparr Tradition Sporen 2009 90/100 Frédéric Mallo & fils Rosacker Vendanges Tardives - 50 cl 2007 Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris A.C. 94/100 Domaine Pierre Frick Vorbourg Vendanges Tardives 2008 Alsace Grand Cru Riesling A.C. 95/100 Domaine Sylvie Spielmann Kanzlerberg 2006 91/100 Kuentz-Bas Pfersigberg - Trois Châteaux 2008

15.00 € 11.50 €

19.10 € 17.50 € 18.10 €

BORDEAUX Saint-Emilion Grand Cru A.C. 92/100 Château Fonroque Vintage 2008 91/100 Château Fonplégade Vintage 2008

24.00 € 40.00 €

60.00 €

Chablis Grand Cru A.C. 95/100 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Les Clos 2009 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru A.C. 94/100 Aegerter Jean-Luc & Paul Vintage 2008 93/100 Château Philippe-le-Hardi Vintage 2008 Corton Charlemagne Grand cru A.C. 96/100 Domaine Bertagna Vintage 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin A.C. 91/100 Domaine Philippe Leclerc 1er Cru la Combe aux Moines 2008 Meursault A.C. 96/100 Guy Bocard 1er Cru Charmes 2008 94/100 Domaine Rougeot 1er Cru Charmes 2009 90/100 Domaine Rougeot Monatine 2009

Rivesaltes A.C. 93/100 Château Rombeau Ambré - 50 cl Vin de Pays de l'Hérault 92/100 Domaine Virgile Joly Virgile 2005 Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes 91/100 Domaine de Rancy Mourvèdre 2009

7.00 € 24.00 € 10.00 €

LOIRE VALLEY Chinon A.C. 90/100 Domaine de Noiré Caractère 2008 Savennières A.C. 90/100 Closel - Château des Vaults La Jalousie 2009

10.50 € 12.00 €

PROVENCE Coteaux Varois en Provence A.C. 91/100 Domaine du Deffends Champs de la Truffière 2007 11.80 €

BOURGOGNE

GILBERT & GAILLARD

91/100 Champagne Couche Père & Fils Brut Sensation 1995

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

ALSACE

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CHAMPAGNE

RHÔNE VALLEY 24.00 € 140.00 € 58.00 € 88.00 €

39.00 € 35.00 € 35.00 € 19.00 €

SUMMER 2011

Châteauneuf du Pape A.C. 94/100 Domaine Galévan Vintage 2009 93/100 Clos Saint Pierre Urbi 2009

25.00 € 25.00 €

SOUTH-WEST Cahors A.C. 93/100 Château Eugénie Haute Collection 2008 91/100 Mas del Périé La Roque 2009 90/100 Château Haut-Monplaisir Pur Plaisir 2007 Cognac A.C. 95/100 Famille Estève Très Vieille Petite Fine Champagne Réserve de la Famille

20.00 € 12.00 € 7.00 €

65.00 €

Read all our tasting reports on www.gilbertgaillard.com

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A comprehensive site entirely dedicated to wine: REGULARLY UPDATED GILBERT & GAILLARD TASTING NOTES: Our encyclopaedic database, with information on production areas, grape varieties, wine regions’ histories

c Food and wine matching… c Articles, in-depth reports, comments and views, news c The Gilbert & Gaillard newsletter

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WINE QUOTATIONS

Ports and Madeiras: Mythical wines that live (almost) forever

In 1754, the agents for the Association of Port Wine Shippers wrote of Port: “It should feel like liquid fire in the stomach…it should burn like inflamed gunpowder… should have the tint of ink… it should be like the sugar of Brazil in sweetness and the spices of India in aromatic flavour,” and centuries later, this colourful description still holds true. Although Port production and trade was dominated by the British for a couple of centuries, the Portuguese regained control of the Port-producing region. One can still taste a difference in styles between the British and Portuguese estates; the style of British Port is bigger, sweeter and more fruit-driven, while the Portuguese estates produce more reserved, elegant wines. There are not many strict rules about how to produce Port, which allows for varying styles, and both British and Portuguese estates are ranked among the top producers.

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ort and Madeira, those fortified wines from Portugal, are revered around the world for their distinctive character. The breadth of styles of both Port and Madeira is surprising; each is produced in a different way, linked to their different histories. One of the most extraordinary aspects of these wines, aside from their legendary tastes, is that they can be drunk indefinitely. A 200-year-old Madeira or Port can be exceptional, which puts these wines in a league of their own. Savouring a very old wine always conjures reflection upon the history through which the wine has lived, and Port and Madeira wines take one further back in time than any others can.

PHILIPPE ROUX IS A SPECIALIST IN THE NICHE MARKET OF RARE VINTAGES

First produced in the mid-15th century, Madeira wines have been exported around the world ever since. On the long journeys by ship to the Far East and Australia, the wine in wooden barrels slowly heated up to around 113˚ F (45˚ C), and gently cooled back down. It was only after a few unsold barrels came back to the winemakers on the island of Madeira that they realised that this slow heating process gave a particularly unique flavour to the wine. They began to mimic this heating process during the ageing to obtain the unique taste, and this heating of the wine remains part of the Madeira winemaking tradition today. There are a variety of styles of Madeira thanks to different grape varieties, blending from different vintages, and the number of years in cask. Madeiras range from pale and medium-dry to honey sweet. There are so many styles and personalities of Port and Madeira to explore, more than you may think: from large-structured and fruity to lighter and refined. Philippe Roux

Ports and Madeiras: Mythical wines that live (almost) forever

PORTS AND MADEIRAS YEAR

CHÂTEAU

APPELLATION

RANK

VOL

PRICE

VAT EXCL.

1845

MADEIRA BUAL COSSART GORDON

Madeira

0.75 l

961.54

1863

BLANDY Malmsey Solera

Madeira

0.75 l

869.57

1880

BORGES H.M. Malmsey Solera

Madeira

0.75 l

811.04

1912

CONSTANTINO

Porto

0.75 l

739.97

1918

SOALHEIRA

Porto

0.75 l

693.14

1920

COSSART GORDON

Madeira

0.75 l

660.54

OLIVEIRAS Reserva Bastardo

Madeira

0.75 l

581.10

1940

GOMES DA CONCEICAO (LUIS)

Madeira

0.75 l

250.00

1944

ADEGA

Porto

0.75 l

313.55

1951

BURMESTER Colheita

Porto

0.75 l

300.1

1957

NIEPOORT Colheita

Porto

0.75 l

215.72

1963

NIEPOORT Vintage

Porto

0.75 l

204.85

1965

SOUZA GUEDES

Porto

0.75 l

129.60

Please contact us for further information: www.gilbertgaillard.com

OUTSTANDING PORT VINTAGES OF THE 19 TH AND 20 TH CENTURIES 19TH CENTURY 1811

1834

1847

1863

1870

1878

1884

20TH CENTURY 1900

1908

1912

1927

1931

1935

1945

1955

1963

1966

1970

1977

2000

OUTSTANDING MADEIRA VINTAGES OF THE 19 TH AND 20 TH CENTURIES 19TH CENTURY 1802

1808

1822

1830

1802

1808

1822

1830

1836

1846

1862

1868

20TH CENTURY 1900

1901

1910

1936

1931

From Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine

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QUALITY FACTORS

What’s the point of pruning? Pruning is an essential part of caring for grapevines. It affects the size and shape of the vines, the quantity of grapes produced (and thus the yield per hectare) and plays an important role in the quality of the fruit.

riginally, the grapevine was a wild plant: a creeper of the genus Vitis in the family Vitaceae. Although it was domesticated thousands of years ago, left to its natural devices, the vine tends to produce more wood than fruit.

TAMING THE VINE To counter this effect, a winegrower has to prune his or her vines. Indeed, this is one of the most important steps in winegrowing, as it has such a critical influence on the quality of the grapes. Pruning takes place in winter when the vine is dormant. At the beginning of the winter, the vines are prepruned, followed by winter pruning. The latter involves cutting back the number of branches and training the fruit-producing canes so that those that remain are more robust, resulting in larger leaves and bigger grapes.

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Pruning is a delicate operation that requires both experience and a skilled hand. Previously carried out with a billhook or pruning knife, today’s winegrowers use hand or pneumatic clippers. In recent years, studies have been looking at how to design vine-pruning robots, but the complexity of the issues to be resolved makes their development particularly problematic. Clippers operated by hand are not likely to be phased out any time soon.

PRUNING METHODS On the face of it, one might think that the more a vine is pruned back, the lower its yield and the better quality the grape. Yet meteorological factors are also decisive; in certain cases, they have an even greater influence on the quality of the fruit than the yield per hectare. So pruning must be adapted to growing conditions.

QUALITY FACTORS

There are many different ways to prune grapevines, but the three basic styles are spur pruning, cane pruning or a mix of the two methods. In spur pruning, the spurs on the vine are trimmed back to two or three buds. Cane pruning involves leaving long canes with more than three or four buds on each side of the trunk. Mixed spur and cane pruning consists of leaving both spurs and canes on the stem. The pruning method selected by a winegrower depends on the grape variety, the terrain and the soil, as well as the growing and harvesting methods (manual or mechanical) practiced.

TRELLISING OR HEAD-TRAINING In Bordeaux and Burgundy, the vines are grown on trellises (that is, the canes are trained along wires) using the Guyot cane-pruning system, which involves preserving only one cane on each side of the trunk and getting rid of the rest. In Beaujolais and Languedoc-Roussillon, head training was long preferred. In this method, vines are not trained on a trellis or other system of support, but one or two buds are left on each of three canes that droop in all directions from the crown of the trunk, resulting in a growth shaped a bit like a goblet. In Australia, these are known as ”bush vines”. However, the mechanisation of winegrowing and harvesting, as well as the introduction of grape varieties from other regions (such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon), have increasingly led Languedoc winegrowers to adopt trellising and to modify their pruning methods to Guyot, Cordon de Royat or Lyre systems.

OTHER PRUNING METHODS The Mâconnais style of pruning is to bend two long canes so they form an arc around the vine stem. In Alsace, the Double Guyot system (each vine has two canes and two spurs, trained in opposite directions) is employed on a higher trunk. Two canes are preserved, each of which has eight to twelve buds. To

PRUNING IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT STEPS IN WINEGROWING keep yields low, many winegrowers in Alsace decrease the number of buds by removing them.

NEW WORLD ICONOCLASTS Winegrowers in North America, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand have developed pruning methods adapted specifically to their terroirs. The richer soils and higher temperatures meant that using European techniques resulted in abundant harvests, but the grapes were of mediocre quality. This led pragmatic American and Australian winegrowers to experiment with new methods, for example, Lyre pruning. Pruning is practiced by winegrowers around the world, taking a variety of forms from one region or country to another. Nonetheless, the universal aim is to find the method most suitable for the growing conditions, the grape variety and the local climate. Gilbert & Gaillard

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www.gilbertgaillard.com

Woody Allen: "Never a dinner served without wine” Don’t count on Woody Allen to celebrate his 76th birthday on December 1st: no drum rolls, no clarinet trills, thank you. The American film genius doesn’t want to blow out any candles. However, if you want to offer him a French grand cru, he won’t say no.

Frank Rousseau with Woody Allen

Your new film Midnight in Paris tells the story of a self-doubting writer who climbs into an old Peugeot at midnight and suddenly finds himself in the 1920s. At various ”Roaring Twenties” parties, he meets the painters, authors and filmmakers he has always admired: Picasso, Hemingway, Buñuel, Dali... Is there one era from the past that appeals to you more than any other? Everyone dreams about going back in time - nostalgia is a feeling with incredible force. I think it’s also a way to focus on beautiful things and deny what’s in

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front of you. When you take refuge in the past, you escape the reality of the present. It’s always very nice to think that the Belle Epoque or the Roaring Twenties were a carefree time, with horses and shiny carriages, beautiful women wearing raw silk, etcetera. Of course, you think of Gigi and Maxim’s, of drinking Champagne, of great wines. But you forget an important point: the conditions of life were very different from today, and a lot more uncomfortable. There was no Novocaine when

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you went to the dentist, and definitely no air conditioning! So I’m not tempted to travel back in time. Or maybe just for one day - with a guarantee of being able to return to the 21st century! And back to the same place I left, please. I wouldn’t want to find myself in a basement in Darfur or in a cave with the Taliban! Is it true that you can only write in the urban jungle of New York while drinking tea? Yes! Only green tea! My wife and I, we drink wagonloads. Drinking green tea is purifying. It’s a little like cleaning each of your cells with a high-pressure hose! Inevitably it’s very good for you. I couldn’t live without the noises of this city. I have slept in the country, listening to the silence and the occasional cricket or toad. It was unbearable; my ears aren’t used to that kind of sound! It’s too peaceful in the country. It’s nice for half an hour, an hour at the most, but longer than that and I get nervous and want to go back to New York. I like hearing the cars honking in traffic jams, the sirens of fire trucks trying to make their way through the traffic and the jackhammers in the background. Basically, there needs to be excitement, something going on. New York is an epileptic centrifuge and I like that! Just go to Wazoo Falls in Mississippi and you’ll see what I mean!

STARS & WINE

On what occasions do you drink wine? Never at breakfast! But there’s never a dinner served without wine. A meal without wine is like a woman without lipstick; it’s just essential. What appeals to you about France, and especially Paris? The streets! I love walking around for hours and getting lost. There is always something interesting to see in the streets of Paris. It’s a continual free show: of life! Paris is like an actress, a character in her own right, who never puts on the same face. I also love the bistros. You can meet really great people there, who are capable of discoursing for hours over pâté and a glass of wine. What is your favourite French wine? I’m partial to La Tâche, an excellent Burgundy. And also Richebourg and Romanée-Conti Grands Echezeaux and Château Lafite … At one time in my life, the biggest bills I had to pay were for bottles of wine that cost me a fortune! Where will your next film be set? In Rome - another city that has great wine. I’m looking forward to directing

another local vintage: Roberto Benigni! His film Life is Beautiful moved me to tears. Needless to say, Italy is also a country with an impressive range of wines. I will nevertheless ask my assistants to curb my wine enthusiasm! I have a film budget to adhere to. I don’t want to go overboard and end up rolling around under the table! Will you request the clarinet - an instrument that you have mastered perfectly - to be played at your funeral? The only thing I ask is that the guy plays in tune! There’s nothing worse than waking the dead! I’ve been playing the clarinet since I was 15. Gene ‘Honey Bear’ Sedric, who played with the great Fats Waller, taught me the basics. For over 20 years I’ve played with a Rico Royal 5, a bamboo reed that produces a full sound. A sound that Boris Vian -also a big wine lover would probably have appreciated. Interview in New York by Frank ROUSSEAU

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Cameron Diaz: ”I’ve never been disappointed by a Gevrey-Chambertin!”

Cameron Diaz. A name you know, a face you can’t forget; a destiny written in the stars. It only took her a few years to rise to the highest echelons of Hollywood. Is it any wonder that Jim Carrey didn’t need any special effects to make his eyes bug out when he sees her in The Mask ? But sorry to tell you guys, the only thing that Cameron can’t resist is Burgundy!

Cameron Diaz

In the movie What Happens in Vegas, your character parties to excess with Ashton Kutcher. To put it directly, spirits were going down like water among the slot machines. I believe you yourself discovered the dangers and temptations of alcohol relatively young? You got that right! When I was 20, I didn’t know the difference between my knee and my elbow. I confess that I always wanted to

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live it up. At the time, I was a model, and I remember a particularly spectacular bender that I should tell you about. One night at a club I met some other models - male and female - from Australia. Since they knew I was going to be coming to Australia for a photo shoot, they came out with something like, ”You can’t visit our country without being baptised!” Of course, the baptism in question consisted of downing as many glasses of alcohol as humanly possible. I know it’s stupid, but, you know, I didn’t want to come across as chicken. Anyway, I started with glasses of Champagne, then moved on to margaritas, Bloody Marys, daiquiris, rum, and topped it off with a few cans of beer! Then they dragged me to a Japanese restaurant where I vaguely remember impressing the Japanese diners present by knocking back litres of sake. They’d never seen anything like it. In the end, I passed out cold on the floor. Since that disaster, I’m more careful. Basically, when I go to a club with friends, I insist on being the designated driver responsible for getting everyone home safely. But the experience did make me realise that if you’re going to enjoy the good things in life, you might as well do it with a good wine! Can you be more specific? Anyone who hasn’t tasted Burgundies doesn’t know the meaning of happiness! When I go to France, or, I should say, Paris, in the hotel where I’m staying, I always make friends with the sommelier. A few months ago, when I was there to promote a film, I had the chance to taste some amazing wines that I didn’t know at all. One of them had a label that wasn’t much to look at, but God, the wine was good. In short, appearances can be deceiving…

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Do you drink only French wines? My father was Cuban and my mother was from a German background. I also have some Cherokee blood. So I’m a real ethnic mix, which makes me interested in other countries, other ways of looking at the world. Since I’ve travelled a lot, and I’m a diehard epicurean, I’ve had the chance to enjoy quite a few different wines. I have to admit that Chilean wine can now take on certain French wines. But the French have an incredible talent for putting a wine at centre stage and making it seem fantastic. Is there a particular wine that transports you? I’ve never been disappointed by a GevreyChambertin! It has good structure and, for my taste, just the right amount of fruit and character. While we’re talking about wine, what about the people who make it - have you met any winemakers? Not in France, but I have in California! They’re passionate about what they do, friendly, and capable of spending hours and hours in order to achieve perfection and the right balance. I like the fact that they’re purists, and I appreciate their craftsmanship in creating a vintage. Sometimes they give you the impression that they’re holding a bottle of rare perfume! I love that world and the sight of all the bottles perfectly lined up, as well as the ceremony that goes along with drinking a premium wine. But the thing that fascinates me the most is the production of the oak barrels. It’s like a good film, it literally captivates me! Interview in Los Angeles by Frank ROUSSEAU

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For a comprehensive overview of some great wines of Bordeaux vintage 2010, compare our tasting notes with those of our well-known American *www.gilbertgaillard.com , *www.erobertparker.com and *www.winespectator.com competitors.*

PAUILLAC A.C.

WINE SCORES 95-100/100

an outstanding wine, when a great terroir meets exceptional winemaking expertise

90-94/100

a superlative wine combining finesse, complexity and remarkable winemaking

85-89/100

a wine of extremely high standard, which we enjoyed for its typicity and character

80-84/100

Château Pedesclaux 2010 Château Croizet Bages 2010 Château Lynch Bages 2010 Carruades de Lafite 2010 Château Duhart Milon 2010 Château Lafite Rothschild 2010 Château d’Armailhac 2010 Château Clerc Milon 2010 Château Mouton Rothschild 2010 Les Forts de Latour 2010 Château Latour 2010

89 87 95 90 94 97 90 92 96 91 97

90-93 n/a 95-98 93-96 92-95 96-99 92-95 93-96 95-98 93-96 96-99

n/a 87-88+ 87-89 91-94 94-96 98-100 89-92 91-93 97-100 92-95 98-100

a quality wine combining balance, structure and neatness for a pleasurable wine drinking experience

75-79/100

a wine deemed acceptable

70-74/100

a wine with defects, unacceptable

65-69/100

a wine with major defects, inadmissible

50-64/100

unacceptable wine, not worthy for sale

Note: wines scoring less than 75/100 are not included in our publications.

n/a = not available

SAINT-ESTÈPHE A.C. Château Cos Labory Château Lafon Rochet 2010 Château Montrose 2010 Château Cos d’Estournel 2010

94 90 96 94

n/a 90-93 95-98 92-95

85-87 92-94 96-99+ 95-97

90-93 89-92 89-92 89-91 94-97 89-92

91-93 n/a 94-96 90-93 92-94 94-97

MARGAUX A.C. Château Boyd Cantenac 2010 Château Pouget 2010 Château d’Issan 2010 Château Rauzan Gassies 2010 Château Rauzan Segla 2010 Château Lascombes 2010

91 89 96 93 96 94

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Château Cantenac Brown 2010 Château Kirwan 2010 Château Desmirail 2010 Château Brane Cantenac 2010 Château Prieuré Lichine 2010 Château Malescot Saint-Exupery 2010 Château Marquis de Terme 2010 Château Ferrière 2010 Pavillon de Margaux 2010 Château Margaux 2010

93 95 91 98 94 94 90 91 91 97

91-94 90-93 n/a 90-93 89-92 93-96 91-94 89-92 n/a 96-99

92-94+ 90-93 n/a 93-96 92-94 n/a n/a 85-87 90-92 96-98

Château Malartic La Gravière blanc 2010 Château Couhins 2010 Château Couhins Lurton Château Bouscaut 2010 Domaine de Chevalier 2010 Château Olivier 2010 Château Latour Martillac 2010 Château Fieuzal 2010 Château Pape Clément 2010 Château Smith Haut-Lafite 2010

91-93 95-97+ 95-98 91-93+ 90-92 89-92 93-95 90-92

La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2010 89 Le Clarence de Haut Brion 2010 91 Château La Mission Haut Brion 2010 95 Château Haut Brion 2010 97 Domaine de Chevalier 2010 92 Château Smith Haut Lafite 2010 95 Château Pape Clément 2010 92 Château Olivier 2010 90 Château Malartic Lagravière 2010 90 Château Latour Martillac 2010 88 Château Haut Bailly 20210 95 Château Couhins Lurton 89 Château Couhins 2010 93 Château Carbonnieux 2010 92 Château Fieuzal 2010 98 Château Bouscaut 2010 90

SAINT-JULIEN A.C. Château Talbot 2010 Château Saint-Pierre 2010 Château Léoville Poyferré 2010 Château Léoville Barton 2010 Château Langoa Barton 2010 Château Lagrange 2010 Château Branaire Ducru 2010 Château Beychevelle 2010

92 95 99 100 93 94 96 90

90-93 91-94 92-95 94-97 92-95 90-93 92-95 89-92

95 92 94 98 98 93 94 96 92 94 96 91 94 92 93 99 91 91 90 93 97

n/a n/a n/a 92-95 92-95 91-94 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a 93-96 92-95 n/a n/a n/a 93-96 n/a 93-96 93-96

91-93 n/a n/a 92-94 91-93 n/a 87-89 89-91 92-94 91-93 n/a n/a 93-95 91-93 90-92 91-93 89-91 90-92 91-93 92-94 96-98

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN A.C. (WHITE WINES) Château la Mission Haut Brion blanc 2010 92 Château Haut-Brion blanc 2010 93 Château Carbonnieux 2010 blanc 98

94-97 94-97 89-92

90-93 89-92 87-90 n/a 92-95 89-92 89-92 90-93 92-95 92-95

n/a n/a n/a n/a 92-94+ 90-92 90-92 92-94 93-96 n/a

PESSAC LÉOGNAN A.C. (RED WINES)

SAUTERNES AND BARSAC A.C. Château d’Arche Château Broustet Château Caillou Château Doisy-Daëne Château Doisy Védrines Château Filhot Château Lamothe Château Lamothe Guignard Château de Malle 2010 Château de Myrat 2010 Château Romer 2010 Château Suau 2010 Château Coutet 2010 Château Guiraud 2010 Clos Haut-Peyraguey Château Rabaud-Promis 2010 Château de Rayne Vigneau 2010 Château Rieussec 2010 Château Sigalas Rabaud 2010 Château La Tour Blanche 2010 Château d’Yquem 2010

91 91 90 91 99 93 92 97 92 95

93-95+ 94-97 n/a

92-95 n/a 95-98 96-99 92-95 n/a 93-96 88-91 91-94 89-92 n/a 97-90 n/a 89-92 90-93 n/a

91-94 90-93 98-100 98-100 91-93+ n/a 93-95+ 86-88 92-94 90-92 95-97 n/a n/a 91-93 90-92 n/a

SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU A.C. (1ER GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS) Château La Gaffelière 2010 Château Magdelaine 2010 Château Belair Monange 2010 Château Cheval Blanc 2010 Château Trottevieille 2010 Château Canon 2010 Château Figeac 2010 Château Beauséjour Bécot 2010 Château Pavie 2010 Château Pavie Macquin 2010 Château Beauséjour 2010 Clos Fourtet 2010

98 93 95 97 91 94 98 90 94 95 95 96

94-97 94-97 94-97 95-98 n/a 91-94 93-96 n/a 94-97 95-98 88-91 92-95

91-93 92-94 95-97+ 96-98+ 89-91 92-94+ n/a n/a 95-98+ 96-98+ 96-100 95-97

SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU A.C. (GRANDS CRUS CLASSÉS) Château Grand Corbin 2010 Château Grand Corbin Despagne 2010

91 92

88-91 88-91

ND 88-90

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Château Chauvin 2010 Château Grandes Murailles 2010 Château La Couspaude 2010 Château Corbin Michotte 2010 Château Bergat 2010 Château Yon Figeac 2010 Château Faurie de Souchard Clos Saint Martin 2010 Château Le Prieuré 2010 Château Guadet 2010 Château Larcis Ducasse 2010 Château Bellefont Belcier 2010 Château La Clotte 2010 Château La Tour Figeac 2010 Château Cadet Piola 2010 Château Moulin du Cadet 2010 Château La Dominique 2010 Château Monbousquet 2010 Château Pavie Decesse 2010 Château Grand Corbin 2010 Château Fonplégade 2010 Couvent des Jacobins 2010 Château Franc Mayne 2010 Château Laroze 2010 Château Petit Faurie de Soutard 2010 Château Dassault 2010 Château Laroque 2010 Château Cap de Mourlin 2010 Château Haut Corbin 2010 Château Ballestard La Tonnelle 2010 Château Larmande 2010 Château La Serre 2010 Château Fonroque 2010 Château Soutard 2010 Château Villemaurine 2010 Château Grand Pontet 2010 Château La Tour du Pin 2010

89 94 88 89 91 88 89 88 91 87 94 93 89 89 88 94 91 93 91 94 93 92 92 87 86 90 92 88 92 91 91 88 94 94 91 94 92

n/a n/a 90-93 n/a n/a n/a 89-92 n/a 92-95 n/a 92-95 90-93 90-93 90-93 n/a n/a 92-95 92-95 93-96 88-91 88-91 n/a 89-92 89-92 n/a 88-91 88-91 n/a 88-91 n/a n/a 92-95 n/a n/a 89-92 n/a n/a

89-91 91-94 91-93 n/a n/a n/a n/a 90-92 92-94 n/a 95-97 91-93 91-93 88-90 n/a 86-88 92-94 91-93 94-96 n/a 92-94 n/a 90-92 n/a n/a 89-91 90-92 n/a n/a n/a 86-88 86-88 88-90+ 85-88 88-90 88-90 90-93

CONTACT DETAILS OF ESTATES FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

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EDITORIAL DIRECTORS: François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard EDITOR IN CHIEF: Sylvain Patard TASTING COMMITTEE: François Gilbert, Philippe Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, Olivier Delorme and James Turnbull REDACTION: Michèle Huyard CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE: Mark Andrew, Jean Batilliet, Christophe Chapillon, Nicolle Croft, Hubrecht Djuiker, Janet Edsforth-Stone, Priscillia Gadayan, Domitille Goulon, Thibaud Harlé, Louise Hurren, Jean Natoli, Jamal Rayyis, Frank Rousseau, Philippe Roux, Delphine Veissière, Christelle Zamora TRANSLATION: Elise Bradbury, Sharon Nagel ADVERTISING: Frédéric Comet +33 (0)6 27 5 8 47 06 Annick Delauneux +33 (0)3 26 55 28 92 Nicolas Sanseigne +33 (0)6 46 86 80 01 PRESS RELEASE: Grégoire Meridjen - Fisheye +33 (0)6 22 94 53 10 LAY-OUT: Renata Lahalle PRINTING: LÉONCE DEPREZ - FRANCE DISTRIBUTOR IN FRANCE: MLP GILBERT & GAILLARD UK Richard Craig +44 (0) 20 7036 9696 richardcraig@gilbertgaillard.com 2A, Ledbury Mews North - London W11 2AF - UK GILBERT & GAILLARD AMERICA Emmanuel de Lanversin +1 908 277 3863 edelanversin@gilbertgaillard.com 174 Springfield Avenue, Summit, NJ, 07901, USA GILBERT & GAILLARD ITALY Delphine Veissière +39 3933535892 delphine@gilbertgaillard.com Via dei tigli, 35 - 20020 - Arese (MI) - Italy GILBERT & GAILLARD CHINA Thomas Magnani +86 159 0070 4490 tmagnani@gilbertgaillard.com Jaje International Plaza, - Room 811, N°1717 North Sichuan Road - Shangai 200080, China DISTRIBUTION SUPERVISED BY EXPORT PRESS: DISTRIBUTORS IN EUROPE: Austria: Morawa GMBH, 1140 Wien Belgium: Imapress, 2300 Turnhout Denmark: Interpress, 2605 Broendby Finland: Rautakirja OY, 1641 Vantaa Germany: WE Saarbach gmbh, 50332 Hurth Holland: Betapress, 5126PT GILZE Italy: Intercontinental, 20124 Milano Portugal: Fraccao, 1990-075 Lisboa Spain: Iber Press SL, 28042 Madrid Sweden: Svenska ab, 120 22 Stockholm UK: Native Publisher services ltd, LS28 7LG Pudsey DISTRIBUTORS IN NORTH AMERICA: USA: Speedimpex, 11 101 New York Medis Marketing Direct, New York Source Interlink, FL 34134 Bonita Springs Canada: LMPI, H1J 2L5 Anjou

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