EAT SOCIAL RESPONSIBLY
jan / feb 2011
$ 8.99
Love the earth (she loves you, too!)
Display until March 18, 2011
EAT SOCIAL RESPONSIBLY
EAT SOCIAL RESPONSIBLY
jan / feb 2011
$ 8.99
Love the earth (she loves you, too!)
Display until March 18, 2011
on the cover Nothing says “I love you” better than heart-shape potatoes! Photo by Tom Key
Our magazine is carbon-netural, printed on FSC certified paper (100% post-consumer recycled). See our Eco-Audit online.
13 PG2 January / February 2011 www.nourishmagazine.com
department
contents volume 1 issue 1 jan/feb 2011
10 editor’s
notes
25 foodie's
travelogues
feature
Cook in Chiang Mai, Thailand
29
34 d.i.y.
Compost in apartment
38 how-tos Indoor herb garden 47 chat with
your farmer
David Halloway
52 shopping 56 what’s
guide Chinese Tea
in season Comfort food
64 event listings
arthur potts dawson
13
Shows co-op is the way to go with People’s Market
19
crowdsourcing
19
How much say do we have in the Food Inc.? love in gray
29
Check out the Vancouver winter farmers market farmed vs. wild
40
The salmon debate
40
38 47 52 56 January / February 2011 PG3
He started Britain's greenest restaurants. Now Arthur Potts Dawson aims to change the way we shop. By Miranda Bryant Photo by Linda Shyr PG4 January / February 2011 www.nourishmagazine.com
feature
Arthur Potts Dawson, chef and owner of the eco-friendly restaurants Acorn House and Water House, hopes to see a co-op on every street corner, selling locally grown food. Photo by Natalie Howe.
t
esco has gone bust. Buying “organic” has lost its meaning. A student spends his Saturday afternoon planting up the rooftop communal vegetable garden with the old man Tesco has gone bust. Buying “organic” has lost its meaning. A student spends his Saturday afternoon planting up the rooftop communal vegetable garden with the old man from next door, whom he hasn’t spoken to since he was 10. In the adjacent block, a former investment banker looks after a woman’s child in the cooperative crèche, while she sorts out the compost.
Fantasy? Not according to the chef turned social entrepreneur Arthur Potts Dawson, who believes the big supermarket chains have had their day and the demand for a more ethical social model could and should come sooner than we think.
“Right now, food co-ops are the future,” Potts Dawson says with confidence. “They are perfect now because of the financial trouble every one is in.”
January / February 2011 PG5
feature
“The People’s Supermarket”, owned and run by the people who shop there, is the future of British food, says Potts Dawson. But the idea on which it is based, a food co-operative, is nothing new. In fact, the Rochdale Principles that form the basis for the modern co-operative movement have remained unchanged for more than 150 years. So why is it relevant now? “People don’t have money, but they need the basic cohesive qualities of support,” Potts Dawson says. “Supermarkets don’t really sustain a community and they completely remove people from the food chain.” Which is why on 1 April, Potts Dawson will embark on a nine-month experiment, filmed by Channel 4, to show that an alternative model, using communities and local food networks, can offer an alternative to supermarkets. “The pilot is one shop and once it is filmed and goes out live, it will hopefully generate so much interest that I am hoping they will spring up on every street corner,” he says. “The co-op should be at the heart of whatever community it’s in,” says Potts Dawson. “If it was in the middle of a tower block in Tower Hamlets, then it should serve the community there. And on the King’s Road, likewise.” When the project is up and running, as well as the shop itself, it will consist of a cafe, kitchen, meeting place and a crèche. Members will be able to shop there and use the facilities in return for volunteering their time. If anyone is capable of spearheading this mammoth task, Potts Dawson is definitely the man for the job. Launching the much-lauded Acorn House, “London’s first eco-friendly training restaurant” and Water House – a first for the catering industry on many counts of pioneering waste reduction systems – has earned him a role as a London Leader working on the Sustainable Development Commission.
PG6 January / February 2011 www.nourishmagazine.com
“I’m a chef, I’m a cook, I was created by this industry, and I like to think I’m giving back. But I’m not giving back because I can make a scallop soufflé, I’m giving back because I can make compost,” he says.
Making the People’s Supermarket come to fruition is not just a matter of organization and logistics. Potts Dawson says teaching is a fundamental element: “It’s really important to teach people how to get food,” he says, “how to grow it, how to pick it, how to prepare it and what’s safe to eat.” The on-site kitchen would allow members to turn fresh food into secondary products before they hit their sell-by-date, thus extending its shelf life by either vacuum packing or freezing. “There’s still going to be waste, it’s difficult,” says Potts Dawson, “but hopefully it will have an extra lease of life. That’s quite important when it comes to waste management. “I’d like to think the co-op is not aimed at anybody,” he says, stressing that everyone in the community should be a member. But there are specific groups which he thinks could especially benefit from giving up a few hours a month to get cheap food and interesting work in return: retired people fit enough to work, students and the unemployed. And he believes there would be opportunity for communities such as local schools, prisons and hospitals to benefit, too, by providing them with fresh, local food,
Acorn House — Potts Dawson’s first sustainable restaurant is installed with recyclable floor, recycled and recyclable chairs, and tables made with Norwegian Forestry Commission wood. It is powered by wind, lit by daylight bulbs, painted with low-volume chemical. Patrons choose the amount and volume of food they wanted to consume. Food waste goes straight to the compost in the garden, where a water filtration system cleans the water out of the kitchen, then is used to water the garden.
Photo by Fernand Ivaldi, Getty Images
The difference between Potts Dawson’s vision for the future and pre-existing small-scale health food cooperatives, is that it would strive to compete with supermarkets across the country. “It wouldn’t compete with local businesses, it would embrace them. But if you’ve got an empty town with just a supermarket such as Tesco taking the piss out of it, then I say why not give them a run for their money?” While a location for the co-operative has not yet been found, Potts Dawson is looking for a building in a well-populated urban area. The project rides on getting public funding, which depends on the cooperation of local councils.
Sarah Alldred of Co-operatives UK – which supports co-operative enterprise – says across the country it has seen “a growing interest in food cooperatives”. The days when cooperatives were for trendy middle-class worriers are fading fast, with affordable food distribution services leading the way from deprived areas of London such as Tower Hamlets and Greenwich, to the suburbs of Manchester. “If people grow things themselves, their children understand, then schools in the area know that this community’s generating something with its own energy, to consume. And what it does do is highlight that wherever you live, in an urban setting, or a country setting, food is important and don’t disregard it.”
i Miranda shares with us the latest trends on sustainable eating around the globe. When she’s not busy reporting, she enjoys cycling around the English countryside with her husband Colin and dog Cookie. Write to Miranda at miranda@ nourishmagazine.com
January / February 2011 PG7
Vancouver Winter Farmers Market is the place to be on a cold & rainy Saturday. Come feel the love! xox by Winnie So Photo by Rico Tam & Winnie So
feature
i
t’s Saturday, and of course, it’s cold and rainy. Boo! No little rain is going to stop me from visiting the Vancouver Farmers Market. That’s right. The Winter Farmers Market is in full swing, happening every Saturday until April 30. This year it’s held at a new location, the Nat Bailey Stadium at 30th and Ontario. It’s just as easy to access via public transit.
And public transit I took to the market. I was pleasantly surprised to see the place packed with people at 11AM! Way to go, Vancouver! That’s right! Let’s all put on our gore-tex jackets and gumboots and get out in the rain! As you might know, the Vancouver Farmers Markets (otherwise known as Your Local Farmers Market Society) is about people who love fresh food at festive gatherings. Since 1995, the Society and the Markets have been spreading awareness of agricultural issues facing our largely urban society. These issues range from the truths about genetically modified foods, to fair pricing for agricultural products, to the glory of a variety of foods available with a locally-networked food system.
When you shop at Vancouver Farmers Markets, you help keep BC farmers farming. The festive atmosphere was apparent. In spite of the lousy weather, shoppers and vendors, and their 4-legged friends were all in high spirit. Since it’s the winter, most of the fresh produce is fruits like apples and pears and root vegetables. There were two stalls selling mushrooms! There were other stalls selling all sorts of goodies: pickled vegetables, tea, sauce, honey, cheese, flour, seafood (tuna!), chicken, eggs, turkey, pork and beef… I continued to wander as I waited for my sister who was late. Turned out, my little venture was very rewarding. Not only did I get to sample some yummy food carefully prepared with love, but I also bought lots locally farmed and harvested food. Well, until I ran out of cash. One thing for sure is that me and my loved ones would be enjoying the food prepared locally, knowing that we took part in supporting our farmers. And by eating locally, we help reduce waste due to distribution so both we and the earth are happier. Will I see you at the Winter Farmers Market next Saturday?
January / February 2011 PG9
Things to try at the farmers market bonchaz bakery cafe
off the wagon
stall 5
604.626.7215
stall 12
604.376.0602
www.bonchaz.ca
pure bread
stall 8
604.938.3013
www.purebread.ca
The pure bread booth had lineup until they sold out their bread! I will join the line next time to try some cheese and herbs and may be rustic Italian bread, too! Freshly made crêpes from creperie la boheme such as the brie & pear savory buckwheat crêpe and sugar & butter classic crêpe were very fresh and delicious! The simple sugar and butter crepe had a sweet floral taste which I couldn’t quite put a finger on. May be they used vanilla sugar? The vinaigrette in the savory crêpe (with bechamel, Little Qualicum Brie, fresh pear and greens) tied all the fresh crisp ingredients together with the soft melting Brie.
Saw the bonchaz table and got a sample. I wanted to get some for breakfast but I had to walk by three times! The bread were baked in a small oven at the market thus they sold out each batch quickly. I got an original bonchaz coffee bun. The sweet warm bun gave me energy to do more shopping! I made trudy ann’s marsala chai tea. following the simple instruction at the back of the tea package. Instead of steeping, you need to boil water and milk/cream. Then add the chai package in the boiling liquid and let it simmer for 2 minutes. Add fresh ginger and sugar to taste. The tea is strong and very aromatic; the perfect treat on a rainy Saturday afternoon. trudy ann’s chai 604.216.0212
www.trudyannchai.ca
creperie la boheme stall 17 604.432.9961
PG10 January / February 2011 www.nourishmagazine.com
Must go to off the wagon for some home made Tacos! I got the slow roasted chipotle and fresh homemade chorizo. Both were delicious! Double layer small corn tacos were loaded with meat, onion and cilantro. Make sure to add a dash of their yellow hot sauce. The chorizo was my favorite, which is slightly spicy and very flavorful.
The vegetarian pizza from whistler wood fired pizza co. was light and had a thin bread like crust. Vegetables were very fresh and the pizza retained the smokiness of the fire wood. It’s also fun to watch the pizza-maker putting the pizza into and out the mobile wood oven. whistler wood fire pizza co. 604.902.4949
stall 3
www.whistlerpizzacompany.com
stall 9
feature
w Vancouver’s winter farmers market at Nat Bailey stadium chili tank
time Every Saturday, 10am – 2pm date Now till April 30th
stall 24
604.721.1980
location 30th and Ontario Street in the East Parking lot and Plaza of Nat Bailey Stadium. No access to 30th Avenue from King Edward on Ontario Street. Access 30th from Main Street or via Ontario from 33rd.
www.chilitank.com
The smoky beef chili from the chili tank was tasty and a very good lunch deal for $5 (including a piece of baguette). It’s loaded with toppings (sour cream, cheese, onion) and very hearty. I like that it has black bean instead of the typical kidney beans. Pan seared some tuna that I got from estevan tuna. Served with a salsa mayonnaise using the salsa from aji at the farmers market. aji gourmet products stall 2
lowland herb farm stall 19 778.786.4384
Treat yourself a bunch of beautiful small yellow flowers from lowland herb farm for just $2. The flowers only lasted for a few days but they were pretty and I felt happy just from carrying them! Try the red truck ale breakfast sausage and granville island brewing english bay bratwurst from beer brats. Simply pan fry them, then finish cooking in the oven. Add some onion to the pan used for frying the bratwurst and some white wine to deglaze the pan. The sausages are surprisingly light. Not much oil came out during cooking.
604.733.0456
beerbrat sausages stall 14
www.ajigourmet.com estevan tuna co. stall 604.334.7648
26
778.232.4185
www.beerbrats.ca
parking Ample parking is available in various lots surrounding the stadium. Please observe posted signage for resident only parking areas. bike parking The stadium has several bike racks located along the East wall of the stadium behind the farm vendor stalls. market money on-site Out of cash? Looking for an ATM? Get Market Money at the Information Tent when you swipe your debit card. Sorry, credit cards not accepted. washrooms Please use the Riley Park Community Centre washroom facilities. The RPCC is located across Ontario Street from the market. smaller carbon footprint We’re trying to reduce plastic use at the market so please bring your own shopping bags or stop by the Information Tent to buy a reusable bag. Recycling stations are on hand to collect paper, containers and organics. Please help us reduce our event’s impact on the environment. dogs are welcome please make sure they are on a short leash and under your control at all times.
www.bctuna.com
more info check out the website For www.eatlocal.org i Winnie thinks food really represent a lot of ourselves and our life. She enjoys good food, great friends, the beauty of life and being alive! When she’s not busy coding, Winnie is often found dining out in the latest and hippest restaurants around town in Vancouver. Read Winnie’s blogs at ahungrybear.wordpress.com.
January / February 2011 PG11
department
our cooking teacher showing off local produce at the open market
Chiang Mai
look at at these spices!
By Chris Phu Photo by Jeannie Hanaway
shock factor
r at local market!
t
he last couple of days in Chiang Mai have been one thrill after another. Along with getting more acquanted with Thai culture, used to the food and hygiene, and what it is to be a tourist here, we have had some fun wandering around temples, farms, wood carving village and Chiang Mai over all. The town is pretty big compared to what we hear about other areas of Thailand. much smaller than Bangkok, but a reasonable size to find our way around, even on our own motorbike. We ventured out of the city to a farm about 15km north of town. What a day. We started out by going to the market, buying rice, fresh tofu, freshly made coconut cream (we watched them make it), a few other fresh ingredients, the rest we would get from the gardens at the farm for our full day cooking class in Thai cuisine. We each chose which paste to make, I chose to make a green curry and Misty chose to make a red curry. In all we learned to make six dishes each. We each made a a curry paste, a curry soup, a stir fry, another soup, a noodle dish, fried spring rolls and a desert. What a treat. We ate them all as well. What a feast. We made a basil stir fry and a cashew stir fry, thai vegetable soup and tom yum soup, pad thai, spring rolls, mango sticky rice, and pumpkin in sweet coconut milk…yum yum yum! It was a wonderful day out of the city, and our teacher who was a cook for many many years and then a cooking teacher for a little over a year was a great guy full of jokes and ran a very fun experience. He remined everything many times. Something missing, and we would all look at him puzzled, like how should we know, this is our first time cooking this. And then he would say, "Something missing?" and point at his face and say, "Smile". Important ingredient in cooking, a smile :-) i Chris loves to travel and he loves to eat! When he's not backpacking or riding his motorbike in some remote Asian country, chances are he is chilling in his kitchen cooking up some travel-inspired recipes. Follow Chris on twitter @christheworldeater.
Pad Thai Recipe
R Ingredients 3 tablespoons oil 1 tablespoon diced garlic 1 /2 lb chicken thighs, cut into 1” cubes 1 /2 lb firm tofu, cut into 1” cubes 1 egg 8 ounces Pad Thai rice noodles 2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons oyster sauce 1 teaspoon sugar 1 /2 cup mung bean sprouts 1 /4 cup chopped spring onions 1 lime, cut into quarters 1 /2 cup chopped peanuts additional spring onion for garnish
R
How to make Pad Thai Heat oil in a wok over low heat. Add garlic and fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Immediately add chicken to prevent garlic from burning and turn the heat up to medium, cooking for 2 minutes. Add tofu and cook for 1 minute, folding gently to avoid scrambling the tofu. Push everything to one side of the wok with a spatula, clearing an empty space for the egg to fry. Crack the egg into the empty space and scramble for 1 minute with a spatula. Once egg is well cooked, gently fold all ingredients in the wok together. Pour 1/2 cup water into the wok and add the rice noodles, stirring until the noodles are tender, about 4 or 5 minutes. Drizzle fish sauce and oyster sauce over the contents of the wok, then sprinkle sugar over the entire thing. Fold gently to incorporate, then stir in bean sprouts and spring onions. Cook for 1 minute and remove from heat. Sprinkled with lime juice, chopped peanuts and spring onions. Serve hot!
R January / February 2011 PG13
D.I.Y.
01
how-to
set up
compost in
apartment By Michael Levenston cityfarmer@mac.com
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PG14  January / February 2011  www.nourishmagazine.com
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department
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1. You'll need a city worm bin with lid, bottom tray and air vents. 2. Strip up newspaper for bedding. 3. Add dry leaves and fluff up the mixture. 4. Add a handful of sand and soil. 5. Water the mix. 6. 500 red wriggler worms are placed on top. They crawl to the bottom. Raw veggies and fruit, coffee grounds, tea bags and egg shells go in. The fork marks the corner. Feed a different corner every week. 7. Open a hole in the bedding in one corner and deposit food. 8. Finished compost can be expected in 3 – 4 months. To harvest, put compost in piles under light. Worms will move to the centre. Remove worms from compost.
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January / February 2011  PG15