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VOLUME 3 | 2022
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NEW GLENDALE STORE OPENING FALL 2021 CORNER OF GLENDALE & COLORADO
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Golden State Bank is a full-service commercial bank with regional offices in Glendale and Upland, servicing business clients in Los Angeles and San Bernardino Counties, and the Inland Empire. The mission of the Bank is to offer diverse, quality banking products and services of exceptional value that will meet the financial needs of businesses, their owners, and their families. Today’s business owners need a confidante, a resource that is willing to explore new and better ways to serve them and their businesses. Not just in narrow-focused financial matters, but in business practices and relationships that will add to a company’s competitive advantage and help grow their business. Our team is always constructive in our clients’ business, as we help guide business owners with customized products and solutions, delivered with superior service.
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(818) 501 – 1055 info@davanalaw.com 16000 Ventura Blvd., Suite 880 Encino, CA 91436
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The right key will open the door for your opportunities
Phone: 818.957.4600 E-Fax: 818.812.7275 Fax: 818.957.4689 Toll Free: 866.868.9672 info@americansavingsloans.com
Your Satisfaction is Our Destination 7
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Dr. Varaztad Kazanjian Plastic Surgery pioneer
Emik Avakian Inventor of equipment for the handicapped
Ardashus Aykanian Plastics developer and inventor
Stephen Stepanian Inventor of truck-mounted concreet mixer
Sarkis Acopian Inventor of solar-powered radio
Dr. Raymond Damadian Inventor of the MRI
truck K n o w l e d g e T r u c k , I n c . , a 5 0 1 ( c ) ( 3 ) t a x - e x e m p t n o n p r o f i t c o r p o r a t i o n P . O
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Los Angeles | April 24th, 2022
Oscar H. Banker Father of Automatic Transmission
Edward Keonjian Microelectronics pioneer
Dr. Nerses Krikorian Manhattan Project scientist
Dr. John Najarian Organ-transplant pioneer
Mihran Kassabian Radiology pioneer
. Box 287, Glendale, CA 91209 | USA 818-244-2468 | Armenia 093-56-56-88
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Կենա՛ց
Armenian Wine & Spirits
a d i v i s i o n o f k n o w l e d g e Tr u c k I n c .
P. O. Box 287 | Glendale | CA | 91209 818.244.2468 | info@GiniFest.com knowledge Truck Inc. is a non-profit 501(C)(3) tax-exempt not for profit corporation established in 2015. Your donation is tax deductible to the fullest extent allowed by law. Tax ID # 47-3315326
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Welcome to GiniFest® 2022, the Fourth Annual Armenian Wine and Spirits Festival. The Armenian people’s tradition of celebrating life with wine goes back thousands of years. No wonder the world’s oldest winery was discovered Photo credit Rouzanna Berberian in Armenia in recent years, in the famed Areni region. Today, Armenian winemaking is experiencing a full-fledged renaissance. We’re seeing the burgeoning of Armenian wineries from Armenia and Europe to South America, as well as the proliferation of winemaking schools and wine bars throughout Yerevan. And as Armenian winemaking becomes more and more sophisticated, Armenian wines and brandies are winning major competitions and garnering prestigious awards across the globe. It was in recognition of this wonderful phenomenon that we launched GiniFest® in 2018. Our maiden event, likewise held in Los Angeles, featured scores of established and emerging Armenian brands, and drew wine aficionados from California and beyond. This year, GiniFest® 2022 is even bigger and bolder, showcasing over 35 wineries, close to ten brandy companies. I am confident that you will thoroughly enjoy the wealth of wines and brandies on display at our fourth annual festival. Finally, I am very pleased to announce that all proceeds from GiniFest® 2022 will benefit University tuitions, ZINVOR AID in Yerevan, the genolive project in LA and myself. #tsertramov Կենա՛ց Stepan Partamian Founder, GiniFest
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Knowledge Truck, Inc. has launched ZINVOR AID, a global program to provide direct financial support to young men performing mandatory military service in Armenia. The monthly allowance that our young conscripts in Armenia receive from the government is not enough to cover even their most basic expenses. The ZINVOR AID program is designed to alleviate this unacceptable situation, by helping our young soldiers cover the cost of their essential personal needs. HOW IT WORKS Knowledge Truck, Inc. determines program beneficiaries by continually compiling lists of conscripted soldiers who come from economically-vulnerable families and are in need of assistance to cover their daily living expenses. Knowledge Truck will match beneficiary soldiers to donors throughout the world. As the program’s facilitator, Knowledge Truck will then transfer all donations to beneficiary soldiers, by making direct deposits into their bank accounts. TWO WAYS YOU CAN HELP 1) Adopt an individual soldier for the duration of his two years of service, by donating $100 a month, or a total of $2,400. The name of the soldier you are supporting will remain confidential. Only you, the donor, will know his identity. You can make your donations through Venmo or Zelle to Knowledge Truck, Inc., which in turn will transfer your funds to the beneficiary soldier by making a direct deposit into his bank account. 2) Donate an amount of your choice to the general ZINVOR AID fund, so that your contribution can be used toward the adoption of soldiers while they perform their military service. You can make your donation through Venmo or Zelle to Knowledge Truck, Inc. In turn, Knowledge Truck will transfer your contribution and those of other donors to the general ZINVOR AID fund, from which funds will be transferred to the beneficiary soldiers by making direct deposits into their bank accounts.
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Knowledge Truck, Inc. Zelle: 818-244-2468 Venmo: @KnowledgeTruck You can also send a check to: Knowledge Truck, Inc. P.O. Box 287 Glendale, CA 91209 Let us support our young soldiers for their selfless service to our nation. Knowledge Truck, Inc. is a non-profit 501(C)(3) tax-exempt corporation established in 2015. Your donation is tax-deductible to the fullest extent of the law. Tax ID # 47-3315326
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truck
“An investment in knowledge pays the best interest.” Benjamin Franklin
UNIVERSITY TUITIONS IN ARMENIA 2020
6 Yerevan State Medical University FULL Tuitions 4 Yerevan State University FULL Tyitions
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6 Yerevan State Medical University FULL Tuitions 18 Yerevan State University FULL Tyitions
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6 Yerevan State Medical University FULL Tuitions 18 Yerevan State University FULL Tyitions
$14,800 $ 6,400
$20,400 $ 28,800
$20,400 $ 28,800
TOTAL PAID $119,600 2023
COMING NEXT
5 Yerevan State Medical University FULL Tuitions 20 Yerevan State University FULL Tyitions
We Need to raise $49,000 knowledge Truck Inc. is a non-profit 501(C)(3) tax-exempt not for profit corporation established in 2015. Your donation is tax deductible to the fullest extent allowed by law. Tax ID # 47-3315326
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$17,000 $ 32,000
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PAID #TserTramov &
DONATE Zelle: 818-244-2468 Venmo: @KnowledgeTruck You can send a tax deductible check to: Knowledge Truck, Inc. P.O. Box 287 Glendale, CA 91209
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Dear Reader,
Anush Gharibyan-O’Connor
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Thank-you for attending the 4th Annual GiniFest. We are pleased to see the Armenian Wine Industry grow and flourish in California. This success is because of you! In a very real way, each attendee of the festival is an ambassador for Armenian Wines and Spirits. During these past 5 years, I have worked hard to bring a spotlight to the Armenian Wine Industry through various educational events. It is wonderful to see the response and the reaction of those who have never tried Armenian Wines before. Our prized and ancient varietal Areni has become a conversation starter. Areni is one of the world’s ancient grapes. Its origin is traced to Vayots Dzor, Armenia, in the year 4100 BC. The Areni varietal is notable for its intense color, expressed acidity, and freshness due to the high elevation of the terroir. Vayots Dzor is 10001700m above sea level and the soil is rich and volcanic. What is the Areni grape similar to? For those who are unfamiliar with Areni, you might compare it
as a “combination” of 3 grapes. First, I find a lot of similarities with Pinot Noir. Areni has the elegance and the finesse of the Pinot Noir grape. Second, it has the juicy and tannic character of Tempranillo, the flagship grape of Spain. During blind tastings, I have had a number of people identify Areni as Tempranillo. And third, I find a lot of similarities between Areni and the Syrah grape. Syrah is very peppery and Areni is packed with black pepper notes. To summarize, aromas prevalent in Areni are those of dark cherries, raspberries, pomegranate molasses, cornelian cherry, and black pepper. Areni goes well with charcuterie, stews (khashlama), and grilled meats. I hope this description seduces you to pick up a bottle or two of Areni and share it with your friends and family. With love, Anush Exacutive Director GiniFest®
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Gini [գինի] [pronounced gini or kini]
A Section of the 6,000-year-old winery discovered near Areni, Armenia.
A bas-relief in Persepolis, Persia, depicting the bringing of the gift of wine from Armenia to Darius the Great.
A Section of a wine cellar from the Urartu era.
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“Gini” is the Armenian word for wine. It is derived from the earlier Armenian word “geni [գէնի],” whose root is the ancient Indo-European word “voinio.” “Voinio” is also the root word of “oinos,” a Greek word for wine. “Oinos,” the Hebrew “yayin,” the Latin “vinum,” and the English “wine” all express the same generic idea, as including all sorts and kinds of the juice of the grape. Armenian winemaking has a rich tradition that goes back millennia. In 2010, the world’s oldest winery was discovered near the village of Areni, in Armenia’s Vayots Dzor Region. The winery is 6,000 years old. Today, Areni is a major hub of Armenian winemaking, with many wines produced in the area having garnered international acclaim. In fact, ever since the 1990s, wines produced in regions throughout Armenia have been winning top awards at wine competitions across the globe, just as Armenian wines become more and more available in world markets. Winemaking was a key
industry in Urartu, or the Kingdom of Van, which was centered around Lake Van, in the Armenian Highlands. The kings of Urartu of the 8th century BC referred to Armenia as “the land of the vineyards.” The renown of Armenian winemaking was also echoed in the writings and inscriptions of antiquity. The Assyrian king Sargon II and the Greek historians Xenophon, Strabo, and Herodotus were among those who have praised the high quality and variety of Armenian wines. Armenia has four major wine regions: Ararat, Armavir, Aragatsotn, and Vayots Dzor, which is home to the Areni Wine Festival. Another major wine region is the Republic of Artsakh as a whole. Nearly 2,000 of the 6,000 grape varieties in the world have been found in Armenia. Today’s top Armenian wine varieties include Voskehat, Areni (Areni Noir), Khndoghni, Garran Dmak, Karmrahyut, Nrneni, Azateni, Mskhali, Kangun, Meghraghbyur, Nerkarat, Ararat, Shahumyani, and Anahit.
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In January of 1997, group of dedicated stamp collectors joined together to create the Armenian Philatelic Association (ARPA) with the goals of collecting of Armenian stamps, researching stamp issues worldwide for stamps related to Armenia and Armenians, and to promote the study of Armenian philately to all those interested in stamp collecting. Renowned collectors, enthusiasts and beginners are among its members. ARPA’s monthly meetings have provided a regular forum for exchange of information, stamps and of other materials. The ARPA Journal provides invaluable means to disseminate new research results and information about Armenian philately.
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HIN ARENI Vineyards +374 41 234111 | info@hinareniwine.am | hinareniwine.am
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ON HISTORY OF COGNAC PRODUCTION IN ARMENIA Although many consider themselves experts and connoisseurs of the Armenian Cognac (and rightfully so!), history of cognac origin and its adoption in Russian Empire and later in Armenia usually escapes their attention. The article suggested to your reading is the first ever attempt to discuss cognac and its history via philatelic endeavor, i.e. through stamps, postcards, and covers. This article was awarded Large Vermeil (large silver-gold) medal at Sarasota National Stamp Show in 2022. Good brandy should be treated like a woman. Do not assault it. Coddle and warm it in your hands before you sip it. W. Churchill
Part I – Before 1917 Revolution
International Exhibition in Paris
“Don’t tell France, but the world’s best Cognac is flourishing in Armenia. Or, at least, that’s what the Armenians say”, writes Hannah Walhout (alcoholprofessor.com, blog
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post March 31, 2016). Well, let’s agree to disagree; France has known about it since 1900, when the blind testing of the cognac produced in Armenia (part of the Russian
Empire at the time) resulted in Grand-Prix at the International Exhibition in Paris. France takes pride in their viticulture which goes back to the times when the Gauls produced wine from wild grapes; then they further cultivated it. In the 3rd century Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus extended privilege of owning vineyards and making wine to all Gauls. But the origin of grapes comes from ancient Armenia. Per Bible, Noah descending from the Mountains of Ararat planted a grape vine thus starting a process that is alive ever since. So far, the oldest wine production was evidenced in Armenia, at a cave in Areni village dating back 6,100 years. Greek historian Xenophon testifies that beer brewing
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in Armenia developed at the same time. In the Anabasis he wrote that “There were stored wheat, barley, vegetables, and barley wine in the craters (clay pots). In upper level of vessels with the edges in the wine floated barley, and there was stuck a reed, large and small sizes and who wanted to drink, had to take a reed in his mouth and pull it through the wine. Not mixed with water, the wine was very strong, but for local people it was a very pleasant drink” . The origin of cognac per se goes back to the 16th century, when Dutch merchants came to France to purchase salt, wood and wine. Preserving the wine during long trip home presented a challenge, and they started distilling the wine into so-called eau-devie which original meaning was water of life. Eventually, it was realized that a second distillery made it even finer, more elegant and pleasant product, which was called brandy (from Dutch word brandewijn, burnt wine). In the XVII-XVIII centuries main cognac producers (like Jean Martell, James Hennessy, Remy Martin, and Thomas Hine further advanced the technology, and in 19th century cognac was not trades in barrels anymore, but rather in bottles, which boosted the glass and cork industries. Hennessy had its first sale in the Russian Empire in 1825, but it took another 60-some years before the production of brandy started on the Empire’s territories. Vodka and wine were so much cheaper and popular that investing in double distillery process did not seem feasible for several
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decades. It was not until 1889 that Georgian businessman David Sarajishvilli (Sarajev) organized first cognac production at Kizlyar, Dagestan. Lately, I came across a 5 kopek Closed Letter which was issued by Empress Maria’s Orphanage Institutions’ Main Office of the Charitable Closed Letters with Advertising showing Sarajev’s Cognac Factory advertising its Tiflis, Saint Petersburg and Moscow wholesale warehouse
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Nerses Aghadjanovich Tairov In Armenia, First Guild Merchant, entrepreneur and philanthropist Nerses Aghadjanovich Tairov (Tairian, Tairianz) became the founding father of cognac production. Born in Karaklis (Karakilisa, modern Vanadzor) in 1833, Nerses Tairian graduated from the Moscow Agricultural Academy and advanced his knowledge in France. Upon return to Armenia (at the time
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part of the Russian Empire) Tairian settles in Erevan, and in 1870-s he acquires land within the territory of Yerevan Castle (Fig. 14 and 15) from brothers Hairapet and Nahapet Ter-Hovakimians (the castle was built by Sardar Khan in XV century during the period of Persian occupation). Expanding the territory to include adjacent land including several Dalma fruit gardens,
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Tairian establishes numerous vineyards. Following the advice of his cousin Vasyli Egorovich Tairov, already a prominent Russian viticulturist, on March 6, 1874 Tairian starts wine, vodka and doshab (molasses) production, and the factory becomes known as Fruit & Grape Fire Plant No. 1 of the Erivan First Guild Merchant Nerses Aghadjanovich Tairov’s In the City of Erivan on Shosseynaya Street in His Own House, according to true words of his trusted manufacturer and distiller Ruben Merabov. Because of the quality, his products enjoy more and more demand, and in the beginning of 1880-s Tairian invites famed winemaker from Tiflis Garegin Kharaziants to improve the distilling process. His factory was located in
a single story stone building for distillation, 217 large amphorae for vine with total of 12,000 bucket capacity and 6 oak vats of 150-200 bucket capacity each. To improve the quality of his cognac Tairov invites from French city of Montpellier (famous for its wines) Yerevan-born, graduate of the Academy of Viticulture young man Mkrtich Musinian to serve as a chief technologist. The new production lasted until 1899; despite excellent quality of the product Tairov was unable to realize the product: rather than buying cheap Armenian cognac people would prefer expensive French brands. Facing bankruptcy of what he thought to be a successful enterprise Tairov pawned his factory in the Bank of Tiflis.
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Nikolay Nikolayevich Shustov The subsequent history of the cognac production in Armenia is associated with the Shustov family. In 1802 Leontey Shustov, a son of a serf, was freed by his landowner, General Izmailov, and moved to Moscow. Although he officially was registered as a deacon at one of the monasteries it was his hobby of collecting recipes for liqueurs that created a basis for a future successful company. It was his son, Nikolay Leontievich, who got interested in alcohol business. Starting small (one distillery apparatus and 3 hired help) Nikolay L. Shustov having fine taste of vodka (it was called bread wine at the time) came up with a motto – Quality Above All. Moscow vodka market was extremely competitive, but his enterprise gained recognition and was very successful; small quantities of the product were compensated by its fine quality. When his first male heir Nikolay (Shustov had four daughters prior to having first son) he started to think seriously
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of what his legacy might be and what inheritance he was going to leave behind. In 1881 Shustov with 18 hired help, 3,950 buckets of vodka for a total of 20,100 rubles was only number 16 in the Russian market. In 1888 Nikolay L. Shustov officially initiated his son Nikolay into the company and the N.L. Shustov and Son became the official name of the firm. By 1889, due to the Shustovs outstanding enterprising abilities the annual turnover of the company reached 1,150,000 rubles, and production accounted for 13,000 buckets of distilled wine and over 6,000 buckets of vodka and liqueurs. By 1897 N.L. Shustov and Son owned one vodka and one liqueur factories, two wholesale storages (one for wine and spirits and one for grape wines). Their annual turnover reached 3mln rubles and the company would sell around 100,000 buckets of liqueurs and 400,000 buckets of distilled wine. The name of the company was changed to N.L. Shustov and Sons Co. to
include the other three sons and was hailed to be second to only Vodka Empire of Peter Smirnoff. But the most successful acquisition of the company became pawned factory of Nerses Tairov in 1899, a year after the death of Nikolay L. Shustov. His eldest son Nikolay N. Shustov took over the leadership of the company, with his brothers Pavel, Sergey and Vasyli serving on the board. The Shustovs cognac expansion into Ararat valley resulted in opening seven new branches in different parts of Armenia, forcing out small producers and accounting for 80% of Armenian cognac production. The major accomplishment for the company became the 1900 International Exhibition in Paris, France. Well aware that only spirits produced on the territory of French province Cognac were allowed to carry the label cognac Shustov incognito sends Fine Champaign Select created by Mkrtich Musinian for a blind testing; his cognac was awarded the Grand Prix. Learning that the producer was not French an
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exception from traditional rules was made and Shustov was allowed to use word Cognac (and not brandy!) on his labels. 2,000 wholesalers (K. Depre, A. Arabaji, Yeliseyev brothers, etc.) were amongst his permanent clients. In 1899 to manage the quality of the cognac and control over the technology of the production Shustov invites Kirill Silchenko, a graduate of Nikitinskaya School of Winemaking who devoted all his life to the factory. He was called Ukrainian son of the Armenian people which was the best honor people could attribute to a person of different nationality. To call Nikolay N. Shustov the King of PR is not to give him enough credit. Following the steps of his father who hired students in Moscow to demand his brand of vodka Shustov hired young men, dressed them accordingly, and paid for their travel to Europe and America with only one goal: along with a beautiful lady visit an expensive restaurant, ask for the best food, and when the table was laid to demand Shustov cognac. When told that the name Shustov was never heard at that restaurant the young men were supposed to offer their apologies to the ladies, pay for the food they ordered without touching it and tell the restaurant management that they would never visit such an unworthy place ever again. Within months, restaurants around the globe started offering Shustov cognac which enjoyed great success among clients. His domestic advertising was even more aggressive. Post-
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ers with his company sign, copper bell, decorated sides of steamers and dirigibles, were screwed into horse carriages and even trams. A most readable newspaper Niva would have Shustov cognac advertising right under its name. Anecdotes were printed in newspapers, like this one: -Which fires are not to be put off? 1-When a lady is burning of shame 2-When the flames of love envelopes the heart 3-When love-sick people
through amorous glances 4-When the soul is burning form a desire to savor a shot of Shustov cognac. It was also said that famed Russian actress Tamara (no last name was ever known) while starring Bespridannitsa (Without a Dowry), a play by Ostrovskiy, would demand Shustov cognac as a part of her role text although during the times when the play was written Shustov cognac was not produced yet. For this little historical tale she was paid 1,500 rubles a month. The advertising played its
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role; pretty soon not only in Russia but abroad as well were talking Shustov cognac. In 1912 Shustov & Sons Co. was awarded a privilege to become Suppliers of the Court of His Imperial Majesty, an honor that was given to a company that during the prior eight years received no single complaint on the quality of the product. 50th Anniversary of the company was magnificently celebrated in 1913. Imagine unlimited cognac and wine, and 60,000 rubles bonus to
each worker! By that time annual turnover of the company totaled enormous for Russia sum, 10 million rubles, and its assets were worth 6 million. Who would imagine that this would be the last successful year for the company? The war stopped everything. Production and sales of alcohol was prohibited by State Duma; per 1915 report on excise duties, none of 14 factories in Erivan province were open. Then the October Revolu-
tion followed. All assets of Shustov & Sons were nationalized. Nikolay Shustov died in 1917 and his brothers in vein petitioned the government of the Republic of Armenia for return of the Erivan Cognac Factory. Further fate of the Shustov brothers in post-revolutionary period is not researched; we only know that they did not emigrate and that Sergey authored a book Grape Wines, Cognacs, Vodkas and Mineral Waters in 1927.
Part II Cognac in Soviet Armenia Until you taste ARARAT brandy, you simply cannot understand what is unique about it. Each of their brandies suits a particular moment in life. From ArArAt Factory Website Shustov’s cognac and wine production seized to exist after the revolution. Petitions of surviving brothers of Nikolai Shustov remained unanswered. Their assets in Armenia, and elsewhere, were nationalized. So what happened next? Revolutionary turmoil was unable to shake the significance of alcohol production. Revolutions are accompanied with looting and pogroms; Armenia was not an exception. Mkrtich Musinian, Kirill Silchenko, and Levon Oganov, who were still working at the factory, with personal bravery and decisiveness protected the spirits still in the aging oak casks. The loss of the reserves could have destroyed the future of the production itself. Global nationalization started, and although it was killing
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private entrepreneurs it had a positive effect on the cognac production; nationalization helped factory to survive. In 1923 the factory, together with other alcohol making companies joined (or were they forced to join?) the new-
Grapes being put in pressing machine.
ly established Ararat trust. Nothing has changed at the time in the process of pressing grapes yet. One of the gems of my collection is a 1927 price list of the Wine & Cognac Trust Ararat which regulated prices on
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the territory of the Transcaucasia Soviet Socialist Republic. It also states that the Trust had departments in Moscow (at 21 1st of May St., previously Myasnitskaya, and in Leningrad at 40 Makhovaya St.). At the time cognac produced at the Ararat Trust factory in Yerevan was divided into the following categories: -*** (three stars) – 1 ruble 80 kopeks for a 1 bottle; -**** (four stars) – 2 rubles 10 kopeks for a 1 bottle or 1.15 rubles for half a bottle; -Fine Champaign – 2 rubles 30 kopeks for a 1 bottle or 1.25 rubles for half a bottle; -Fine Champaign old – 2 rubles 90 kopeks for a 1 bottle or 1.55 rubles for half a bottle; -Fine Champaign better – 3 rubles 10 kopeks for a 1 bottle or 1.65 rubles for half a bottle; and -Fine Champaign selected – 3 rubles 60 kopeks for a 1 bottle or 1.90 rubles for half a bottle. The right column of the inlay showed prices for the wines also produced by the
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Trust; as we are referring to only cognac production that part is out of the scope of this article. In 1928 Maxim Gorki, the revolution singer and poet, associate of Lenin and Stalin, and number one writer of the Soviet period visited the Armenian land. During his stay in Yerevan, he was offered a tour of the Ararat wine factory, in the basement of which the admired guest abundantly tasted the strong content of the barrels. They say that he pronounced his well-knows words in this very place,
“Maybe it’s easier to get on Ararat mountain, than from the basement of Ararat”. A new period in the cognac production in Armenia began in 1927 when Margar Sedrakian started working at the Ararat wine factory. Born in 1907 in Kharakonis Village, Van Vilayet, Ottoman Empire, he was raised in an orphanage after his parents were massacred during the genocide. He did not know his last name, only his first (Margar) and his father’s name, Sedrak, so he was given last name derived from this, Sedrakian. While working at the factory M. Sedrakian graduated from the Yerevan Agricultural Institute in 1930. Margar Sedrakian created his first cognac in 1937. He wanted to name it Armenia, but the famous Armenian poet and writer Avetik Isahakian talked him out of it; scary times of mass repression, executions and exiles were behind the doors. To avoid being charged with nationalism Sedrakian named the cognac Jubilee. He created his Armenia later, in 1940. In 1942 Margar Sedrakian, several people whose names were closely associated with
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Ararat Trust were awarded various state awards. Thus, Order of the Red Banner of Labor was awarded to Gurgen Arzumanian, People’s Commissar of the Food Industry and Bagrat Harutyunian, Managing director of Ararat Trust. Deputy People’s Commissar of the Food Industry, Suren Grigorian (my paternal grandfather), Margar Grigorian, winemaker at Yerevan Ararat Factory, Nikolay Prostoserdov, senior consultant of Ararat Trust, Victor Puchinian, chief winemaker at Ararat Trust, Margar Sedrakian, at the time master of winemaking at Yerevan Ararat Wine Factory, Kirill Silchenko, chief winemaker at Yerevan Ararat Factory were awarded Orders Badge of Honor. Labor Distinction Medals were awarded to Ivan Lukashev, master blender of the Moscow Ararat Wine Factory, and Sahak Sahakian, cooper of the Yerevan Ararat Wine Factory. Many legends are told about Margar Sedrakian. Anastas Mikoyan, a prominent Soviet political figure, called him A Man Who Cheated Stalin. The story goes that during the WWII all USSR factories producing alcohol were considered to be of military importance as they were delivering spirits to the soldiers. Officers, in their turn, were supplied with cognac spirits. Stalin decreed that all spirits were to be shipped to the army, leaving at the factories only ready-made cognac (which was, of course, of much lower proof). Margar Sedrakian, being a member of the Central Tasting Committee, had trusty relationship with another member, Comrade
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Snegovskaya. They made a plan to print 1,000 labels of non-existent cognac Artashat and approve it backdating it to March of 1941. Thus, the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic was able to preserve all its reserves of cognac spirit. Another legend is related to creating Dvin cognac. In 1937 Papanin was about to embark on an expedition to the North Pole. All Soviet republics took part in supplying the team with various goods and products. Belarusians provided warm clothes, Ukrainians salo (fat or pig lard), Armenians – cognac. There was an article printed in Pravda newspaper displaying the Papanin team photograph next to a barrel of cognac and their letter where they complained that the 42-proof cognac was not keeping them warm enough. A question was raised before cognac producers, was it possible to create higher proof cognacs? And Margar Sedrakian brilliantly answered the challenge by creating his 50 proof Dvin cognac. Although working hard and having friends in the higher
echelons of the Soviet government he was not exempt from false accusations and repression. In 1946 he was arrested at the pretense that he had works by Yeghishe Charents (who was arrested as a public enemy and died in a prison hospital in his library. The fact that Sedrakian was ordered to mine the factory which he refused and returned explosives to the KGB also played role in his arrest. He was ordered to leave to exile to Siberia, but his friend Anastas Mikoyan falsified documents and sent him to Ukraine instead to give a push to the cognac factory. There Sedrakian created two brands, Odessa (1948) and Ukraine (1949). He would probably have remained in Odessa for the rest of his life, but the fate decided differently – he returned to Yerevan in few years due to Winston Churchill’s interference, per another controversial legend. The fact that Churchill tasted the Armenian Dvin cognac is undeniable, but whether it happened at the Tehran (Fig. 33) or Yalta Conference (Fig. 34) of the Big
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Three is debatable. It is said that Churchill appreciated the drink and Stalin ordered quarterly delivery of 10 boxes of 20 bottles each to him. While Sedrakian was in exile in Odessa the reserves of the Dvin blend were depleted and the current personnel in the factory did not know the recipe to create it. In the late 1940s (per other sources, in 1951) Churchill noticed that the taste of the drink has changed and asked his staff to relate this to Stalin. (Other sources say he wrote him a letter which is not supported by any archive documents). Stalin ordered an investigation and was told that Sedrakian was exiled to Siberia but
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could not be found anywhere there. During a meeting with Stalin Mikoyan told him that Sedrakian was arrested based on a ridiculous charge and was currently in Odessa. Stalin demanded his return to Yerevan. What Margar Sedrakian did was unheard of – he would agree only on the condition that his arrest record was squashed and his years in Odessa were counted as a business trip. The condition was honored and Sedrakian returned to Yerevan to continue working on the creation of new brands of the Armenian cognac. He was also awarded Hero of Socialist Labor in 1971. Here is the list of all brands created by the Master:
-1937 – Jubilee (Hobelyanakan – 43 proof, aged over 10 years) - 1939 – Selected (Entir – 40 proof, aged 7 years) -1940 – Armenia (45 proof, aged 10 years) -1941 – Artashat (see above, never created) -1942 – Dvin (50 proof, aged 10 years) -1947 – Yerevan (57 proof, aged 10 years) -1948 – Odessa -1949 – Ukraine -1955 – Festive (Tonakan – 42 proof, aged over 15 years) -1957 – 40-year old (40 proof) -1967 – Akhtamar (40 proof, aged 10 years) -1967 – 50-year old (40 proof) -1977 – Vaspurakan (created based on his recipe posthumously – 40 proof, aged 15 years) After his death in 1973 his legacy was immortalized by yet another memento – monument to the Master was erected on the territory of the Ararat Cognac Factory. The 105th Anniversary of his birth was widely celebrated in Yerevan, and the invitation to
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the festivities depicted a bottle of Dvin cognac. Towards the end of 1940s the demand for the production has increased as the cognac became extremely popular in the USSR. The territory of the old factories and workshops became inadequate for effective operation, and in 1953 cognac and distillation combined workshops moved to a factory that was specially designed for cognac production, thus creating Yerevan Cognac Factory. The building was constructed on a hill where Sardar’s Palace was situated before revolution). The territory of the new factory occupied 8 hectares in the center of Yerevan. The new building is presented on 1982 postal stationary, and the architect, Hovhannes Margarian on a postal card mailed intercity Yerevan). When the construction of the Government Building #2 was completed (around 1953) Ararat Trust moved into that building (architect H. Margarian, with M. Grigorian S. Safarian). shows that building on a postcard mailed in circa 1960 from Yerevan to France with correct international airmail postage of 1r 60kop. We also know that Yerevan Cognac Factory used to have its envelope for advertising and business matters. All my efforts to find one issued or mailed during the Soviet times were in vain. In 2003, when a cognac-grape stamp was issued by Armenia, several such covers appeared on the market in Armenia. Probably, somebody had a few envelopes from the old times and used them to create philatelic items. I was able to obtain one
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which was mailed intercity Yerevan with registration, although the postage was substantially overpaid (300 dram instead of required 85 dram for a registered postcard). During Soviet period Armenian winemakers were at the pick of fame. In 1940-1985 cognac production increased 17-fold. Almost every brand produced at Yerevan Cognac Factory received high level international awards at regular and blind tastings. So what makes Armenian cognac distinct from cognac produced in other countries? The secret of taste is that Ararat cognac gently effects on all five senses thanks to its unique characteristics: deep amber color, vivid aroma, rich taste with a velvety texture and long aftertaste. The other secret of the taste is the climate. Long term observations in the Ararat valley located at 700 m above sea level have shown that the valley enjoys 300 sunny days a year. These conditions cause a high concentration of aromatic substances and sugars in the grapes. In addition, there are nearly 30 soil varieties in the Ararat valley. As a result, the same grape variety can have multiple taste nuances which is another characteristic of the Ararat cognacs. Almost always (except for several years after collapse of the Soviet Union) Ararat cognac was produced from local grape varieties, such as Voskehat (translated as Golden), Kangun (translated as Stable), Mskhali, Garan Dmak (Yeanling Fat Tail), Chilar, and Rkatsiteli. Transplanted to other areas these grape varieties either do not take
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root at all or lose their unique character. These grapes intense aroma and rich taste transform into a delicate, long aftertaste with notes of vanilla, dried fruits and chocolate. The color varies from pale flax in young cognacs to a deep, darker amber in aged cognacs. Yet another secret of the taste of the Armenian cognac is the aging in oak barrels. Originally, during Shustov times, barrels were imported from France, and later from Bulgaria. But the most intense taste comes from the
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barrels manufactured from the Caucasian Oak (Quercus macranthera) which grows in Armenia. Such barrels were used almost exclusively, but manufacturing from the Caucasian Oak was interrupted in 1990s and was resumed only in 2002. Famous in Europe for its dense rose-tinted structure
barrels made of Armenian oak complement the taste of vanilla, chocolate and dried fruit already present from the distilled local grape varieties. 1990s saw a big change in the way cognac was produced in Armenia, but this will be a topic for another time.
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FAT AND HAPPY BEVERAGES Honoring Tradition And Sharing The Love! When you’re an Armenian spirits entrepreneur casting around for just the right business name to aptly describe your firm, invite conversation and brand exploration, it behooves you to pick something that really resonates in your industry, and with consumers. Karen Meymaryan, Founder of Fat & Happy Beverages, settled on the name as it brings a fun, easy going aspect to the company, it’s easily understandable by Americans, and it is one that resonates with Armenians as well. He sought something that he hopes will, “spread the joy and happiness of presenting and marketing liquor products!” Meymaryan is confident that no matter how you raise a toast (chax u baxtavor is the Armenian way to “cheers” to your wellbeing), you will be happily celebrating things old and new with the wines, spirits and specialty foods that this boutique distributor imports from Armenia. Fat & Happy’s brand portfolio includes the world famous Ararat Brandy, Karas Wines, many
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specialty vodkas, and other unique items. If you should ever happen to explore the landlocked nation of Armenia, you will quickly discover it is without coastal light breezes, but what it does have is plenty of sunshine, about 300 days per year of it, enhancing the output of the wine grapes and the varieties of fruit that thrive in Armenia, which are used to create premium wines and exquisite brandies. These are the likes of centuries-old brandies that Winston Churchill loved and that Meymaryan has been shepherding through the American market for the last seven years. He shares some common knowledge about the favorite brand of the British Prime Minister, noting, “Ararat is the most successful and recognizable Armenian brandy. If people know Armenia, they know Ararat,” said Meymaryan. Certainly some of the success of Ararat as an internationally renowned brand has rubbed off on Meymaryan who began his career as the United States Export Manager of the company
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that oversaw Ararat production, but it was not just mere proximity, as he has worked diligently since the beginning and expects to continue for th duration. Meymaryan is inspired by those who are passionate about the spirits industry and sites longevity as his model in saying, “Overnight success is not about us. I have met many distributors in the United States that have inspired me, especially those who have forty to sixty years invested in the liquor business. For example, I met with the founder of Mutual Wholesale Liquor, who since 1959, is still in business today. His commitment to longevity, his sharing of his stories and learning about their developments are all very inspiring.” Meymaryan, is also inspired to represent his portfolio with national pride, along with additional remarkable brandies, and wines from Armenia, neighboring Georgia, along with notable wine growing regions in Argentina, all while growing his business and evolving his career. He explains, “You can see the success of the Ararat Brand growth and how its reputation developed in America, as I oversaw its placement here, and
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now that I’m the owner of an import company, it was a huge journey for me to go from overseeing that one brand to undertaking an entire change of business within the U.S. mar- ketplace. It required that I establish Fat & Happy Beverages as a reputable name that not only implies “fun”, it also translates to “cheers” in Armenian, but additionally as one that represents a feeling of happiness, ie, “Fat & Happy feelings” about the portfolio. Part of the journey was finding the balance between Americanizing the brand and staying true to
my roots. As far as good business platforms go, in my opinion, the best is in America.” The American Dream that drew Meymaryan from the role of corporate worker to overseeing the business presented plenty of opportunities and difficulties along the way, and not even being in the midst of a pandemic could stop him. Set on a course with a goal that he explains is to become recognized and respected as a company that is selling premium products from Eastern European countries, Karen embraced the move to the other side of the table as an opportunity to realize his dreams that first began while he was working at Pernod Ricard, wherein which he states, “They taught me a huge amount of experience and gave me sense of confidence that I still implement in my day to day operations.” Fat & Happy Beverages continued operating and kept all of its employees working throughout the pandemic. Meymaryan shares, “Even during the very difficult and challenging times of Covid, we did not close for even one hour of business opera tions. We had so many projects that needed our
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attention.” Meymaryan was motivated by exports he saw coming out of other countries. When asked why it was important to bring Armenian products here to the United States marketplace, he remarked, “The history of Armenia and the stories of its products needed to be told here, and seeing the opportu- nities and successes other nations had when they presented their best products in the U.S. awakened a sense of competition in me.” That sense of competition also becomes a sense of pride when he walks into a Costco, Total Wine & More, BevMo!, Remedy Liquor or Mission Liquor store and sees his wines and brandies standing tall on the shelves. Karas Wines is a brand that recently joined the Fat & Happy Beverage portfolio and there are plenty of others, including a brand new apricot brandy blend that truly is the essence of Armenia. The color of the brandy shares one of the colors of the national flag, and it has already graciously received rave reviews. Meymaryan shares his approach to creating a home for these brands, some of which are centuriesold, and others are newer than the country, which declared its independence from Russia thirty years ago! He explains how he has built his company, “It’s based on a mutual connection to the brand and the people behind it. While certainly there are ratios and financial criteria, it’s not just about measuring, but it’s about a feeling. I am most passionate about building up the brands, and watching them develop, rather than just merely distributing the product. When you have a personal connection with the product you can successfully become an advocate of the brand. Many Armenian and Eastern Eu-
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94 rating, like his apricot brandy 2019 - Directory | Armenian Arts 51 carries, it is the story of a nation. Meymaryan concludes, “Armenia is recharging and rejuvenating. Armenians are very honest people. They are extremely hardworking, strongly believing that they have a special role in the international community. Alcohol liquor traditions are one of the most effective ways to embrace and acknowledge the culture which we are witnessing several times each day. These are the tradi- tions of ambitious and challenged nations, yet sharing alcohol that is consumed responsibly, allows us to see how the celebrations and organizations of their family events occur. Exploring Armenian spirits speaks volumes about the nation itself, in all of its -uniqueness and beauty.”
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A Guide to Armenia One of the World’s Oldest Wine Regions BY LAUREN MOWERY Published on July 19, 2021 Wine Enthusiast Magazine IN VINO WINE BAR, YEREVAN, ARMENIA / ALAMY
Landlocked between Georgia, Iran, Azerbaijan and Turkey, Armenia’s fast-flowing rivers and high plateaus are framed by the rugged Caucasus Mountains. Early civilizations, ancient kingdoms and a communist state have all lived in what’s considered the cradle of wine. Through triumphs and tumult, the country’s wine industry is again on the rebound. Here’s what you need to know about Armenia’s vinous renaissance.
ANCIENT HISTORY Regardless of whether Noah truly planted Armenia’s first vineyard after his Ark washed up on Mount Ararat, the country’s wine history is ancient. The region of Vayots Dzor claims to be home to the oldest winery in the world, in operation some 6,100 years ago. Discovered in 2007, the
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Areni-1 cave complex held evidence of large-scale wine production and the likely domestication of vines. Some think wine consumption reaches back even further. Patrick McGovern, scientific director of biomolecular archaeology project for cuisine, fermented beverages and health at the University of Pennsylvania Museum, found traces of wine on an 8,000-year-old Stone Age shard of pottery retrieved on a modern-day Georgian site. While exact details of ancient winemaking remain romantically murky, ancient texts authenticated by historians like McGovern offer a glimpse of Armenia’s ancestral glory. In his book Ancient Wine, McGovern details how 8th century B.C. Urartian monarchs, an Iron Age kingdom that ruled the Armenian Highlands, dubbed Armenia “the land of the vineyards.” The Assyrians and Greeks
also referenced Armenian wine in various texts. The progression of Armenian wine ended when the Soviet Red Army invaded in 1920. Two years later, the country was merged into the Transcaucasian Soviet Federated Socialist Republic. In 1936, it became the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic, or Soviet Armenia. With the abolition of private enterprise, innovation came to a halt. The Soviets converted wineries into processing plants, and vineyards turned over fruit for brandy distillation or bulk wine production. To increase volume, vineyards were planted in unfavorable locations, while others went neglected or abandoned. The wines once coveted by Assyrian rulers and traded with the Babylonian empire fell from grace. In 1991, after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Armenia regained its sover-
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9TH CENTURY WINE PRESS AT TATEV MONASTERY, ARMENIA / GETTY
eignty. Young Armenians and those with investment money began to embrace the region’s ancient techniques and storied wine culture. In other words, Armenia has the distinction of being the youngest oldest wine industry in the world.
THE GRAPES TO KNOW So far, researchers have catalogued 400 indigenous varieties from a cache of wild vines cultivated by early Armenians. HARVESTING GRAPES IN ARMENIA / ALAMY
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A few producers work with international grapes, largely for Russia and other former Soviet republics. This market will diminish over the coming years, says Ara Sarkissian, head of wine for Storica Wines, a U.S.-based Armenian wine import company. Rather, new quality-driven wineries focus on local varieties. However, to commit to Armenia’s heritage grapes is not as easy as planting them. “A lot was lost during the Soviet years, including knowledge of the traits of many indigenous varieties that were
ignored during that era,” says Sarkissian. Determining characteristics like soil suitability, sun preference, vineyard aspect as well as how much maceration and aging the grapes can handle, takes year of experimentation, a process underway in earnest over the last decade. “Unlike neighboring Georgia, where tradition looms over everything, Armenians are open to imported knowledge and technology,” says Sarkissian. “The break with the past of the Soviet era, as devastating as it is in terms
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ARMENIAN SPREAD OF GRILLED VEGETABLES AND FISH WITH MELON, RED CURRANTS, GOOSEBERRY AND WINE / GETTY
of losing tradition, has also been an opportunity for a fundamental reset, which drives much of the renaissance that’s happening now.” For example, Armenians have shown flexibility with grape names that outsiders find difficult to pronounce. “Khndoghni has been renamed Sireni by near unanimous consent,” says Sarkissian. Areni Noir produces medium-bodied reds with fruits like cherry and strawberry laced with black pepper aromas. It compares in its freshness, silkiness and transparency to Pinot Noir. Voskehat is Armenia’s signature white grape. Translating to “golden berry,” the wine has light to medium body. It brims with floral and stone fruit aromas marked by notes of herbs and citrus. Khndoghni, or Sireni, is a red grape common to the South Caucasus that gives black fruit flavors, deep color, good tannins and the potential to age.
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KEY WINE REGIONS Armenia’s viticultural strengths include volcanic soils, high-elevation sites and old vines. The absence of vineyard pest phylloxera permits growers to plant vines on their own roots, rather than be grafted. “This means our grapes have been kept close to their original forms,” says Varuzhan Mouradian, founder/winemaker of Van Ardi Winery in the region of Ashtarak, just outside of capital city Yerevan. “As someone who’s used to hearing ‘pre-phylloxera’ in conversation, it’s wild to listen to Armenian winemakers demarcate their vineyards as pre- or post-Soviet,” says Chris Poldoian, an American sommelier of Armenian descent, who also serves as an ambassador for Storica Wines. There are four main wine regions. The best known is the south-central region of Vayots Dzor, a long, narrow plateau which stands out for its highest elevation vineyards, some
which reach almost 6,000 feet above sea level. “To put things in perspective, high elevation in continental Spain and Northern Italy is maybe 2,300 to 2,900 feet,” says Poldoian. Aragatsotn sits at slightly lower elevation. Other regions to note include Ararat, located on a sunny plateau; Armavir, a mountainous area in the southwest; and the mountainous landlocked areas where Sireni grows. “Within the regions, villages and hillsides are being explored, and winemakers are learning the characteristics of single vineyards,” says Sarkissian. The Modern Industry It’s natural to be drawn to the history of Armenian viticulture because it’s the origin story of human wine consumption. Poldoian, however, hesitates to focus on the ancestry of Armenia. He’d rather highlight the “amazing wines made by thoughtful producers right now.” Armenians have driven
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A VIEW OF THE MOUNT ARARAT FROM KHOR VIRAP, AND VINEYARDS / GETTY
much of the revival using a combination of modern technology and traditional techniques, like aging in terracotta jars called karasi. The collective push for quality has helped winemakers find export partners. Vahe Keushguerian, founder/winemaker for Keush and Zulal, says as a landlocked country, “Armenia cannot produce low-cost wines. It has to carve a niche in a higher-priced segment.” So far, the best-known winery is Zorah. Founder Zorik Gharibian, a successful businessman in the Italian fashion space, pivoted from breaking ground on a winery in Tuscany to Armenia after he visited his ancestral homeland in 1998. Zorah’s Areni, matured in karasi, fit neatly into the trending category of amphorae-aged wines, which helps turn the spotlight on Armenia. Since Zorah’s founding, the list of imaginative wineries has grown. Storica imports four of them: Keush, for traditional-method sparklers; Zulal
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for vibrant Areni, Oshen for barrel-aged wines and a rosé from Shofer. Hin Areni and ArmAs Estate also export to the U.S. International attention doesn’t hurt. Paul Hobbs, the California vintner who has spread his wings to Argentina, the Finger Lakes region of New York and Europe, developed a fervor for Armenia during a trip in 2005. His latest project, now a partnership with Viken Yacoubian called YacoubianHobbs, broke ground near Areni-1 in 2014. Its wines, a white blend and two Arenis, can be purchased online, making them more accessible for U.S consumers.
American sommeliers have taken notice. “As the birthplace of viticulture, Armenian wines are liquid history,” says Kyla Cox, Atlanta-based wine consultant and founder of Cork Camp. “These wines reflect a sense
of culture and place perhaps more than any other winemaking region.” She frequently showcases the wines in her events. Small growers in remote regions, however, lack the money, infrastructure or logistics to capitalize on such enthusiasm. The Farm-to-Bottle project by ONEArmenia has worked to bring the consumer to the farmer. A crowdfunding campaign run in 2017 helped build the first “WineCube,” a cabin-like tasting room in Southern Armenia for Momik Wines. Despite numerous challenges, the mood in Armenia remains optimistic. “Armenia is small, landlocked and poor,” says Mouradian. “But what it has is resilience, an ability to adapt, and an eagerness to show the world its world-class wines. A bright future lies ahead for Armenian wine.”
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Stepan Partamian
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GiniFest® Is Back: The Armenian Wine and Spirits Festival Finally Takes Place in Person BURBANK, Calif. – After rescheduling several times and instead holding virtual events, the team behind GiniFest was finally able to hold the third annual Armenian Wine and Spirits Festival in person on July 25. Tickets were sold out one week before the event. The outdoor patio of Castaway, a restaurant and event center in Burbank, CA, was transformed into a huge
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tasting center full of exquisite wines and spirits from Armenia and California. Winemakers were paired with stations serving cheese, fruits and snacks, sweets and pastries by various brands. All this delivered with live Armenian romantic songs and showcased artworks makes for a perfect Armenian event with a breathtaking view of Los Angeles. This year’s GiniFest is especially meaningful. Anush Gharibyan-O’Connor, the executive director of the festival, finds an empty chair inside the restaurant to rest her feet after a long but successful day and shares with me the stories of the hardship that the winemakers went through due to the COVID-19 pandemic and the war in Artsakh in 2020. She says: “The im-
Published on August 2, 2021 by Ani Duzdabanyan The Armenian Mirror Spectator
ports have been pretty much nonexistent, and consumption in Armenia was very low as well. Then, when they were coming finally out of COVID, the war hit. A lot of people who worked in wineries had to go and fight in the frontlines. And we, being here and introducing Armenian wine to non-Armenians, make people buy wine and get excited about wine, [which in turn] gives the opportunity to people [in Armenia] to make more wine and keep their jobs.” Due to the circulating new Delta variant, most of the winemakers from Armenia could not attend GiniFest. The importing and distributing companies took on their roles with the utmost responsibility. The festival made it possible for three wineries from Artsakh to present whatever
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Alexandra Kaprielian, Takri Wines
Emilia Bagdasarian, Apris Wines
product is left after November 9. Apris, Takri and Aran lost everything during the war in Artsakh. Takri means roots in the Artsakh dialect. The biggest loss for the Kaprielian family was the loss of their employees of many years, young boys who perished during the war. In some ways, Takri is fortunate to have a factory in
Stepanakert. The winery was in Banadzor village in Hadrut province which is now under the control of Azerbaijan. “We have now acquired new lands and we will start cultivating them. But unfortunately, the taste of Takri will not be the same,” Alexandra Kaprielian of Takri Wines observes with sadness. Emilia Bagdasarian of Apris
Wines was presenting its 2018 vintage, the only wine that was saved. Over 50,000 bottles are estimated to be lost. All the white and rosé wines were bottled with corks in them and not labeled yet. Red wine was in the tanks and barrels. The vineyards of Sireni are the ones that are left in Martuni and Amaras, the area which is controlled by the Russian peacekeepers. Only with their support can the Bagdassarian family go and work there. She exclaims: “It’s very emotional and difficult. We are not going to be able to produce the same wine: Vines need a lot of care and attention. Since we’re not there every day, we’re unable to do this. However, when we are there, we are doing it with the best of our abilities.
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Ambassador Armen Baibourtian and Stepan Partamian, Founder of GiniFest®
To the Left, brand ambassador Angelina Khourdajian and to the right, Owner Lusine Hartunian of Napastak Winery
We may be able to have some sort of collection. We are more focusing on harvest and preservation.” The family is in the process of rebuilding the brand in Armenia. They managed to bring over and replant some indigenous vines like Sireni and a few other grapes. For the Bagdasaryan family, Apris was a project of passion more than a business. Keeping people in Artsakh busy and giving them the opportunity to live and work in their motherland was and still is essential to Apris. “We have to keep going. If we don’t, there will be no opportunities,” Emilia adds. Ambassador Armen Baibourtian, the Consul General of Armenia in Los Angeles Apris is one of the favorite Artsakh wines of Ambassador Armen Baibourtian, Consul General of Armenia in Los Angeles. Despite all the losses and struggle these wineries went through, he is hopeful that the skills and the art of winemaking that they developed will be continuous. “They must find other ways
and we all must do everything for Armenian wine to have its unique place under the sun,” the consul general states determinedly. Baibourtian finds very significant the fact that not only wines from Armenia are represented in GiniFest but also Armenian winemakers from California, Napa Valley are here. He is talking about one of the Armenian wineries in Napa, Napastak. Lusine
Hartunian and her family expanded the winery’s purpose by turning it into an epicurean boutique, a “gourmet lifestyle brand.” That means that the winery came to GiniFest with an entire spectrum of gastronomic experience: bread soaked in balsamic vinegar, olive oils and mustards paired with a red wine kept the stand occupied the entire evening. After the hardships of the pandemic, business started
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to improve for the Napastak winery over the last couple of months. Its supporters are mainly from the Armenian community, people who drive all the way from San Francisco just to see the winery, notes Lusine, proclaiming: “My goal is to get the Armenian name out there and let the world know who we are, what we are capable of. It makes me proud to have an Armenian brand in Northern California where there are not many Armenians.” Napastak’s name is much loved also among non-Armenians, who enjoy the winemaker’s hospitality. Together with her husband, Lusine also owns a distillery which produces brandy and vodka. But it’s for “before and after dinner.” “The wine is part of the dinner,” declares Lusine, smiling. Stepan Partamian, the founder of GiniFest, shares the festival’s ambitious purpose to involve non-Armenians. He and Anush invite many restauranteurs and wine specialists to taste the Armenian wine at the festival. “We are very self-enclosed as a community. We can introduce our products to all the people in Southern California with its population of 11 million. The Armenian wines are so advanced that it is important to present them to non-Armenians,” quickly adds Stepan, and moves on to greet his special guests. Part of the proceeds from the festival are being donated to support students in Armenia with their tuition costs. The next, fourth annual GiniFest will take place on Sunday, May 22, 2022.
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In Armenia, Making Orange Wine is Personal Published on February 9, 2022 BY ANI DUZDABANYAN Wine Enthusiast Magazine Vayotz dzor vineyards, armenia / photo courtesy zorah
For many Armenian winemakers, making orange wine is personal. The process revives ancient traditions when almost every household made its own wine in a huge karas, or amphora made of terra cotta, and then sealed it with beeswax and buried it in the ground to age. This is the method that Trinity Canyon Vineyards, located in Armenia’s Vayots Dzor region, adopted in 2014 to make its Ancestors’ Orange Wine. After conducting thorough research in nearby villages, Artem Parseghyan, Trinity Canyon’s winemaker, learned that orange wine was historically referred to as yellow or amber because the orange fruit wasn’t local. He also learned it was believed to have health benefits, according to the writings of 15th-century physician Amirdovlat of Amasia. Ancestors’ Orange Wine uses Voskehat, an indigenous variety that’s at least 3,500
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years old. Also called Golden Berry, Voskehat has a yellow-white or amber hue with small brown spots, and has aromas of fresh white fruits with hints of citrus and freshly cut grass. To make his wine, Parseghyan ferments Voskehat in 100-year-old karas above ground, which he believes makes it easier to control the process, for anywhere from two or three days to two or three weeks. He then trans-
fers the must, grape skins, seeds and juice to another, beeswax-coated karas that he buries underground. “Clay gives special flavors such as minerality, earthiness,” says Parseghyan. “The shape of the vessel is important. It creates certain turbulence during the production process.” He believes the karas’ shape allows for subtler extraction of tannins from the grape skins and seeds. Despite Armenians’ long
Trinity canyon uses karas to make its ancestors’ orange wine photo courtesy trinity canyon
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Winemaker zorik gharibian with son oshin gharibian / photo courtesy zorah
history of using karas for food and wine storage, older vessels can be hard to find. Manufacturing karas halted from 1928 through the 1980s, during the years of industrialization enforced by the Soviet Union. Modern Armenian winemakers who want to use original karas to ferment their wines must seek them out, and clean and restore them. Also located in Vayots Dzor is Zorah Wines, which bottled its first vintage in 2010. Founder Zorik Gharibian remembers how, a few years ago, he knocked down a wall in an elderly woman’s home in Yeghegitz village to find three enormous karases. (He later rebuilt her wall.) He uses those reclaimed vessels to age wines like Heritage Chilar, an orange wine made with Chilar, another indigenous Armenian variety also known as Fox’s Tail because of its cylindrical-conical bunches. Heritage Chilar is fermented and aged in karas that Gharibian buries three-quarters of the way in the ground, as per 3,000-year-old traditions, with 60–90 days of skin contact and then nine further
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months in the bottle. “After many years of working with the karases, I find this to be the best way,” says Gharibian. The portions buried in the earth keep temperatures stable, while the aboveground exposure “creates a disparity of temperature within the karas which creates natural movement in the wine while aging.” Since all are handmade, each karas has a different size and thickness. Gharibian only uses natural yeast, and there’s very mild filtration before bottling. Another winemaker in the region, Avag Harutyunyan of Maran Wines, dug through ancient manuscripts like the 14th-century text Girk vastakoc (Book of Farm Labors) to collaborate with others on techniques for karas use and maintenance. Maran’s Malahi Amber wine is the result of genetic studies from the Institute of Molecular Biology of the National Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Armenia, which identified a long-lost Armenian grape variety, White Areni. Maran Wines harvests these white wine grapes when
they are very ripe, destems and crushes them, and then transfers them to ferment and macerate in karases for two to six months. Khme Wines, a label that only produces orange wine, launched in Stepanakert, Artsakh in 2019. Khme, which translates into “drink up,” harvests its grapes from Amaras Valley in Artsakh and the Vayots Dzor region in Armenia. Its wine is made in 140-year-old karases and features indigenous varieties Voskehat and Khatoun Kharji as well as Rkatsiteli, a variety that was planted across the Caucasus during the Soviet era and mainly used to make brandy. Reclaiming these varieties and production methods is significant, says Anush Gharibyan O’Connor, a wine consultant and executive director of GiniFest, an annual Armenian wine festival in Los Angeles. The new phase of orange wine in Armenia offers “something different, such as terroir, grape aging and winemaking techniques,” she says. It’s a novel approach with ancient roots.
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ESTABLISHMENT OF THE VINE AND WINE FOUNDATION OF ARMENIA The Vine and Wine Foundation of Armenia was established in 2016 for the efficient and coordinated development of the sector, as well as for the introduction of new strategies of state policy and developmental programs. As Armenia is experiencing its winemaking renaissance, the VWFA developed a strategy aimed at the creation of all the preconditions necessary for the provision of high-quality raw materials for wine production focusing on: the enhancement of competitiveness of Armenian wines in the international market, the enhancement of legislative frameworks and quality control mechanisms, targeting the development of professional capacities, improving the business environment and increasing export volumes.
VIN & WINE FOUNDATION OF ARMENIA MISSION - to develop the local viticulture as a guarantee of high-quality wine.
- to promote the reputation and competitiveness of country’s winemaking worldwide. - to promote Armenia’s attractiveness as a winemaking country. - to create and promote the “Wine of Armenia” brand. - to increase wine consumption and export volumes. - to expand the geographic reach of our exports.
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Kevork Douzadjian did not like working a desk job, so he started Apricoty.
Apricoty proves fruitful for Altadena man By Christina Fuoco-Karasinski Pasadena Weekly Executive Editor Photo by Chris Mortenson Mar 17, 2022 Since Kevork Douzadjian was a youngster in Lebanon, he enjoyed gifting his mom or sisters with products that would make them feel pretty. He ordered high-quality serums and lotions, especially while he was in the U.S. Army in Germany from 1999 to 2002. After he was discharged, he founded Apricoty, a cosmetics company that uses apricot oil in its products. “The company name, Apricoty, was named because of the fruit apricot and the oil that comes from it,” said Douzadjian, who lives in Altadena but creates the products in Pasadena. “It is a magical oil for skin, hair and nails because it has all the natural vitamins like A,
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E and C and natural acids like Oleic acid and stearic acids.” Starting out Douzadjian has always been crazy about soaps, he admitted. When he was 7, his entrepreneurial spirit kicked in, as he started selling lemons that he picked from his backyard to local produce stores. He and his friends also founded a window cleaning business. But when he was 13, something changed. He and his sister bought a soap-making kit at Vroman’s. It was then he thought of creating a business and making hand-crafted soaps using the natural ingredients he experimented with as a child.
“It was ‘melt and pour’ — easy soap making,” he said. “You don’t have to mess with making a lye. If you’re not doing it right, you can burn yourself.” After high school, he joined the military, for which he worked as a combat engineer. Afterward, he worked as a self-employed, licensed handyman. Douzadjian, who was injured in the military, earned his master’s in business. His post-military experience includes working for the VA and Social Security. He soon realized a desk job wasn’t his thing. “I got out of that,” he said. “When I got out in 2019, I thought about reopening my
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construction business. I still had my license. I asked my wife what I should do. I was making candles with my wife (Irina) before we were married. “I also make wine. My wife supported me and the idea of starting a business and making soaps and candles. It all started with that idea and that led to the whole cosmetic world.” With Apricoty, the products are sustainable and health conscious, as Douzadjian uses at least 90% organic ingredients. “It’s all made with top-quality oils and butters and essential oils that are from wellknown suppliers who have a good history of products that keep their value. “I try to stay away from fragrance. Synthetic fragrances
have a lot of chemicals and paraffins and harsh products.” Douzadjian said he is careful when he chooses his products. For them, he incorporates his own oils and waxes. He uses his homemade wax in deodorant, lip products, lotions and some soaps to make them harder. The wax comes from his beehive. “You can’t get more natural and organic than that,” he said. The beehives, which Douzadjian acquired when a relative died, produce honey that is soothing for skin. Douzadjian is creative. He infuses his oils with ingredients that are hard to find. He takes his time getting the ingredients — plants, roots, stems, seeds — and grinds them, adds oils and lets them get soaked by the sun. Next,
he stores them in a dark place for a few months so the oils soak. His mindfulness goes all the way down to the packaging, for which he uses all-green, recyclable materials. Some of his shampoos and conditioners are wrapped with paper labels to reduce plastic waste. “All my products are all-natural, and it’s indicated clearly on my labels,” he said. “Every single thing that I make has the products listed on the ingredient list. There are no surprises. You get exactly what’s on the label. I try to also share my knowledge by explaining to customers the products that I use and help them choose what would best work for their skin types. “I try to accommodate all skin types, ages, colors of skin and even hair types. I do have hair products, too.” Douzadjian is looking forward to growing his business after a number of pandemic setbacks. His father and both of his in-laws died during the lockdown. The Pasadena High School graduate started selling his products at farmers markets the end of last year, and that has been fruitful, as well as Amazon and his website. Website: apricoty.com
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Xenophon’s beer experience in Armenia
by Micky Bumbar (Lords of the Drinks)
Long before Alexander the Great succesfully annexed the Persian Empire there was a first Greek invasion in the year 401 B.C. Although the mission of the Greek mercenaries to help Cyrus the Younger on the Persian throne failed, since he was killed in a battle, the adventure was documented by the Greek general Xenophon. In this book Anabasis he describes into detail how his army is welcomed in Armenia with old school beer. It gives a nice insight in the drinking culture in Eastern Anatolia in ancient times. The ancient Greeks in general weren’t big fans of beer. They preferred the ‘civilized’ drink wine and usually looked down on their neighbours that were all drinking some forms of fermented grain. The Egyptians, Thracians and Scythians for example were notorious beer drinkers, usually through a straw to get past the floating mess on top of these early brews. Often the Greeks mocked this drinking habit by comparing it to women performing oral sex to men. However Xenophon sang quite a different tune in his book Anabasis, as how an Armenian tribe welcomed what was left of his army. Translated in English by Carleton L. Brownson, it says: “The houses here were underground, with an opening like that of a well, but spacious below, and while entrances had been dug for the beasts of burden, people went down by a ladder. In the houses were goats,
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Xenophon of Athens Ancient Greek: c. 431BC [1] – 354 BC)
sheep, cattle, chickens, and their young, and all the animals ate their fodder there in the houses. There was also wheat, barley, beans, and barley wine in large bowls. These barley-corns were in the drink up to the brim, straws were in it, some larger and some smaller, without joints. When someone was thirsty, they had to take these straws into their mouths and suck. It was quite pure unless it was diluted with water, yet quite pleasant when one was used to it.” The next day apparently Xenophon got even more impressed by the Armenian hospitality. In his book he wrote: “And there was nowhere where they did not set before them on the same table lamb, kid, pork, veal, and chicken, together with lots of bread, some wheat and some barley. And whenever someone wanted kindly to drink to
another’s health, they would take him to the bowl, and they had drink like an ox, having bent over and gulped it down. To the village-chief they offered the privilege of taking whatever he wanted. He accepted nothing, but whenever he saw one of his kinsmen, he would always take hold of him. When they got to Cheirisophus, on arrival they also found [those soldiers] billeted and crowned with wreaths of hay, and Armenian boys in their strange, foreign dress, serving them, and they were showing the boys what to do [by signs], as if they were deaf and dumb. When Cheirisophus and Xenophon had greeted each other, they together asked the village-chief, through their Persian-speaking interpreter, what this land was. He replied that it was Armenia.” These days the country Armenia is quite a lot more to the north than the place where the Greek generals had their beers. As a result of the Armenian genocide, performed by the Turks during World War I, very few Armenians are left on Turkish soil. Iran does have quite a large Armenian community which is responsible for most of the (illegal) alcohol production in this country. So it’s safe to say that their thirst for alcoholic beverages remained through the centuries, as well as their willingness to share them with others. Sounds like our kind of people.
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The route of Xenophon’s expedition.
Confirmed written evidence of ancient beer production in Armenia can be obtained from Xenophon in his work Anabasis (5th century BC) when he was in one of the ancient Armenian villages in which he wrote: “ There were stores within of wheat and barley and vegetables, and wine made from barley in great big bowls; the grains of barley malt lay floating in the beverage up to the lip of the vessel, and reeds lay in them, some longer, some shorter, without joints; when you were thirsty you must take one of these into your mouth, and suck. The beverage without admixture of water was very strong, and of a delicious flavour to certain palates, but the taste must be acquired.”
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