The Mainland Less Traveled

Discover the Peloponnese Peninsula of Greece.

BY ANGELA FAIRHURST

Santorini. Mykonos. Crete. The big three Greek islands in the Aegean and Ionian Seas are the country’s most visited destinations. With their crystal blue waters and white-washed buildings, they have always been synonymous with romance. But there’s another side of Greece, which is much less explored and touristy, but no less beautiful, luxurious and romantic—the Peloponnese peninsula of southern Greece. It’s well worth the two- to four-hour drive from Athens to experience the different areas of the region’s stunning coastline, archaeological sites and amazing castles. Did I mention it has fresh seafood and wineries?

The region is fairly large and impossible to see in just one visit, so here are some can’t-miss highlights.

STAY ATKINSTERNA HOTEL

In the medieval fortress town of Monemvasia, Kinsterna Hotel is a rural Byzantine-era mansion meticulously converted into a luxury boutique property with 41 glorious rooms, suites and villas. Named for the age-old kinsterna (the Byzantine word for cistern) around which the estate is built, the hotel’s design details are inspired by relics from the ancient civilization. The owners’ vision was to create a totally self-sustainable and independent community. To achieve this, they revived the former agricultural lifeblood of the manor, nurturing its on-site vineyard and olive grove, fruit-bearing trees, fertile vegetable and aromatic herb gardens.

At Kinsterna, atmospheric suites and self-contained residences marry Old World charm with New World comforts, such as a pillow menu and rich, organic bedding by Coco-Mat. With domes and arches, the impressive Byzantine suites preserve the mansion’s historic architecture, while the private villas feature high-tech amenities, design-led furnishings and semi-private pools. A river-like pool is filled with natural spring water and features private relaxation areas, and the Kinsterna Spa boasts purifying Ottoman hammam and the rejuvenating care of its experienced therapists. You can also try seasonal activities, including harvesting, drying and crushing grapes; gathering honey from Kisterna’s beehives; making soap; and participating in the production of olive oil and tsipouro, a traditional distilled Greek spirit.

EXPLORE MONEMVASIA

Cars are left at the main gateway, the only entrance to the medieval castle town of Monemvasia, preserving its tranquility. Reached by crossing a short bridge from the mainland, this magical place was entirely carved on the slopes of a rock overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Old cobblestone streets, centuries-old mansions, Byzantine churches and works of art make this one of the most romantic places imaginable. We witnessed a fairy-tale wedding party being serenaded through the main street, which was named after the 20th-century Greek poet Yiannis Ritsos, who hailed from Monemvasia. Today, most of the old mansions have been converted into guest houses and boutique hotels, with only about a dozen families living as permanent residents. The central street running through the town serves as a graceful main commercial stretch, with small tavernas, cafes and shops offering souvenirs and traditional products.

SIP AT SKOURAS WINERY

In the northeast of the Peloponnese, the region of Nemea has been regarded as a great wine-making district for millennia. Near the city of Argos, the Skouras Winery, located among the lush vineyards of the region, is a modern viniculture facility started in 1986 by oenologist George Skouras. Working with indigenous varieties from his own vineyards, as well as the produce of dedicated grape-growers in the region and elsewhere, Skouras produces high-quality Greek wines. Take a vineyard tour to see how the wine is made and stored, and stay for a tasting. The Aghiorghitiko is a variety of red grape unique to the region, and Skouras’ Grand Cuvee Nemea, made strictly from these local grapes, is outstanding. With luck, Mr. Skouras will be on premises during your visit.

EXPERIENCE THE ANCIENT THEATRE OF EPIDAURUS

One of the best preserved ancient theaters in Greece, the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus, dedicated to the Greek God of medicine, has perfect acoustics, elegance and symmetry. Built within a pine forest sanctuary in the late 4th century B.C., when Athens was a cultural center, the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus can accommodate an audience of more than 12,000 people. Climbing the 100-plus steps to the top not only provides a great workout, it’s also a fun way to test the sound. The limestone seats filter out low-frequency sounds, such as the murmur of the crowd, and also amplify the high-frequency sounds of the stage. Every summer, the ancient stage comes alive with an annual theater festival featuring works by the great Greek playwrights. From every single seat, you can hear the actors loud and clear, without the use of microphones.

ENTER THE OLD WORLD OF MESSENIA

Another less-traveled region in the Peloponnese that’s worth a visit, Messenia has glorious beaches, enchanting villages, ancient ruins, Venetian castles, vast olive groves, mountains and coves. Few tourists knew about the area until the opening of the five-star The Westin Resort, Costa Navarino. Messenia is home to the UNESCO Archaeological Site of Ancient Messene, dating back to the 3rd century B.C. Bigger than Mystras, this preserved city has temples, theaters, statues, fountains, home structures, walls, towers, gates and a stadium, many in pristine condition. The mountainous area has many water springs; drinking from them is said to bring good luck. Do stop and enjoy a bite at Ithomi Café-Restaurant in the village overlooking the site. At this family-owned restaurant, we had the best meal of the trip, including olive ice cream and a superior bottle of Dalamara wine.

GET GORGEOUS INSTA-PHOTOS (AND GREAT EATS AND COOL FINDS) IN NAFPLIO

Nafplio is a quaint seaport town in the eastern Peloponnese, about 60 miles from Athens. Bourtzi, the small Venetian fortress located in the middle of Nafplio harbor, is the most photographed spot in the town. There’s also Palamidi, a hilltop Venetian-built fortress in ruins that can be reached by climbing 857 winding steps. Nafplio is loaded with restaurants, boutique hotels and high-end shopping. Here, we had a sumptuous seafood dinner at Arapakos and sipped Moschofilero, a delightful aromatic white wine made from grapes grown in the Peloponnese region. The sense of community is striking here. Everyone is proud and friendly, sitting outside in the cafes and restaurants, with live music lilting in the air. Summer brings weekend concerts to the courtyard outside the Church of Konstantinos and Eleni, and everyone is out and about, dancing and celebrating the good life. Shopping here is a must. There are a few typical souvenir shops, but the Old Town section is loaded with stores featuring an extensive selection of handcrafted jewelry, food and gifts, and fine clothing and shoe stores in the New Town section. It’s worth a stay in one of the Neoklasiki Group hotels, which are located in renovated neoclassical 19th-century mansions.

MARVEL AT THE CHURCHES, FRESCOES AND MORE IN MYSTRAS

Mystras, a medieval fortified town and UNESCO World Heritage archaeological site close to Sparta in the region of Laconia, is a great spot to spend a couple of hours. In the Byzantine era, the castle town was considered impregnable, second in strength only to the capital of Constantinople. The preserved ghost city was walled and developed down the hillside from the fortress, built in 1249 by the prince of Achaia, William II of Villehardouin, overlooking Sparta. Today, Mystras is known for its Byzantine churches, with interesting architecture and well-preserved ancient frescoes. You’d be remiss if you didn’t pause to take in the stunning view!

IMMERSE YOURSELF IN TRANQUILITY AND ROMANCE IN LACONIA TOWNS & DIROS CAVE

If you’re short of time, pass up Sparta, where there is little to see, and head for the smaller unspoiled seaside towns of Laconia, such as Gerolimenas, Gythio and Diros, with loads of excellent seafood restaurants and some great ouzeries. A visit to the Diros Caves is awe-inspiring. During a 40-minute tour, you travel back to the Neolithic era, through an intricate network of narrow tunnels in which walls are covered with reflective stalactites.