Tokyo Treasure

With its superb location in the city’s prestigious financial district, 12 extraordinary restaurants and bars, impeccable service and plush accommodations, the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo makes for an ideal place to call home when visiting the bustling metropolis.

BY BETH WEITZMAN

Tokyo, with its storied history, varied city districts and cultural uniqueness, is a travel destination unlike any other. At its heart is the district of Nihonbashi (meaning Japan Bridge), which is located just north of the buzzing Ginza shopping district, and serves as the historical and cultural center of Tokyo. In 1604, a shogun named Ieyasu Tokugawa set about creating a new city here after shifting the country’s capital from west to east, and the area became the birthplace of Tokyo. Its namesake Nihonbashi Bridge is even considered the center of Japan and is the starting point of five key routes across the country. Today, the district’s Kyotoinspired layout is lined with merchants who have set up shop over many generations, alongside contemporary skyscrapers, financial institutions and historic department stores. An absolute gem of the area, the five-star Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo elevates the luxury offerings in the area with exquisite design and service, elegant guest rooms and suites, an award-winning spa and 12 impeccable restaurants and bars.

THE ACCOMMODATIONS

As the first of the brand’s hotels in Japan, the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo features 157 luxurious guest rooms and 22 glorious suites (ranging from 538 square feet to 2,691 square feet) perched high on the 30th through 36th floors of the soaring 38-story Cesar Pelli-designed Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower. The stunning views—overlooking Mount Fuji, Ginza and the towering skyscrapers of Shinjuku to the west and the Sumida River, Tokyo Bay and Tokyo Skytree (the world’s highest freestanding broadcasting tower) to the east—are simply priceless. Truly, so many sights to see.

Each Mandarin Oriental hotel is designed to reflect the city in which it is located, and the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo—which reflects the unique Japanese sense of the four seasons and love of nature—is no exception. Inspired by the main themes of woods and water, the hotel was conceived as a single, large, living tree, with the guest rooms as branches. These themes are expressed throughout the hotel using original materials and evocative motifs on everything from wall treatments and fabrics to screens and furniture. Beauty abounds at every turn.

Plush guest rooms beckon with floorto-ceiling glass windows allowing for unobstructed views; provided binoculars help appreciate the views even more.

Oriental Suite

Presidential Suite

Comfy beds dressed with luxurious Egyptian cotton bed linens make sleeping truly dreamy. Path-through closets for uninterrupted laundry or shoe-shine services is a really nice added convenience. Distinctly appointed bathrooms feature body, hand and rain showers, plus unique Hinoki bathtubs with fiber-optic lighting and bath amenities by Bottega Veneta. Abundantly stocked private bar cabinets; high-definition, flat-screen televisions; Wi-Fi; and high-tech safes add even more comforts. Adding to the room’s allure is an impeccable turndown service with pillow menu and blended room fragrance oil, Japanese kimono-style night-robes, plush terry bathrobes, yoga mats and more. From check-in to checkout, service and experiences is exquisite.

Take full advantage of the hotel’s location and experience Japanese culture with its Nihonbashi Experience package (starting at JPY 75,000, for double occupancy). The package includes one night of accommodations in a Deluxe Premier room or above, a full breakfast for two at K’shiki or Oriental Lounge, an illustrated walking map curated by the hotel’s concierge team and a choice of five cultural experiences to be selected upon reservation (renting an authentic kimono to wear while exploring the city; a tour of the famous Nihonbashi Bridge, the Fukutoku shrine and Japanese stores; a workshop in Washi paper-making; a glass-engraving class; or a lesson in the craft of Japanese flower arranging.)

THE RESTAURANTS

As impressive as the design and accommodations are, the innovative dining experiences also delight. In true Mandarin Oriental style with a total of 23 Michelin stars found within Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group portfolio of 32 hotels, the hotel’s varied and world-class restaurants include three Michelinstarred options that are not to be missed (book ahead to insure reservations). At Signature, one of the Michelin-starred restaurants, contemporary French cuisine with distinctive modern flair is delightful. In addition to the main dining area that looks out over the striking skyline, a private room with seating for up to 10 guests provides for an extraordinary private experience. Another of the Michelinstarred restaurants, Sense, focuses on Cantonese cuisine by Chef Toskiyuki Nakama and Takeshi Suzuki. Be sure to try the Napoleon fish (a popular delicacy in Hong Kong) and the dim sum lunch on weekends and public holidays. The third Michelin-starred restaurant, a truly distinct dining experience, is Tapas Molecular Bar. While molecular cuisine can sometimes be obscure, I was surprised by how amazing the food not only looked, but tasted. A true culinary journey with only eight seats at the bar, this is one hot reservation. Chefs put on a culinary show that impresses. The two-hour meal features bite-sized

Signature

Sense

Sense Tea Corner

Tapas Molecular Bar

Sushi Shin by Miyakawa

K'Shiki

The Pizza Bar

Gourmet Shop

Ventaglio

delicacies prepared in traditional sushi-bar style. The Cigar (with duck, smoke and ash); Bouillabaisse (with nodoguro, rouille and saffron); and Dangerous Lamb (with peas, celeriac and teriyaki) are easy standouts. For dessert, try the Strawberry Confusion (with candy and caviar). However, menu items are subject to change.

Just opened on the 38th floor is Sushi Shin by Miyakawa, an exclusive restaurant with sushi bar seating for nine, boasting large floor-to-ceiling windows with breathtaking views of the Tokyo Skytree and a dynamic city panorama. This is Hokkaido’s three-Michelinstarred Chef Miyakawa’s first restaurant to open in the Japanese capital. Artisan-made furnishings commissioned by Chef Miyakawa himself include a wooden Edo Komon screen crafted by Nobuo Tanihata, a master of the 1,300-year-old Kumiko-style woodworking technique and stunning wall art behind the 350-year-old Hinoki cypress counter created by Syuhei Hasado, Japan’s most renowned tsuchikabe (mud wall) designer.

A true master of Tokyo’s authentic Edomaestyle of traditional sushi cuisine, ingredients offer the best aspects of the changing seasons, prepared differently according to the time of year. Chef Miyakawa trains each chef on selecting the finest and freshest ingredients sourced daily from Hokkaido and Tokyo’s Toyosu market, and transform them into unique and mouthwatering seasonal sushi creations, such as seared pink sea bream served with wasabi and a pinch of salt, and sweet, bright orange sea urchin served over rice with a seaweed garnish.

Culinary offerings continue at K’shiki, with delicious all-day Italian comfort food for the urban gourmand paired with dazzling panoramic views of the Tokyo skyline. Situated inside K’shiki is the must-try The Pizza Bar on 38 th , boasting an eight-seat marble top chef’s bar, specializing in brickoven pies originally created by pizzaiolo and Executive Chef Daniele Cason. Using Italian organic flour with just one gram of yeast and 80 percent water for a 48-hour fermentation, Cason produces the very lightest and digestible crust. The Bufala, made with fresh Buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil atop a perfectly baked organic pizza crust is to die for.

Ventaglio is a vibrant buffet restaurant offering authentic cuisine for both lunch and dinner. The menu features different culinary styles, showcasing exciting international cuisine accompanied by unique global wines.

Mandarin Bar

Oriental Lounge

THE BARS

The views and cocktails don’t get better than those at the Mandarin Bar. The ultrachic bar on the 37th floor features live jazz Monday through Saturday; a warm, sophisticated interior; a vast wine cellar; and a wide variety of rare Japanese and foreign whiskies. The light bites menu includes items such as the Japanese wagyu cheeseburger, a pork cutlet sandwich with Japanese mustard, Oscietra caviar with classic condiments and blinis, tuna tartare with ginger and seaweed, numerous salads and much more. On the cocktail menu, the Oozakura (made with Mancino Bianco, Dekopon juice, sweet sake, fresh strawberry and simple syrup) and the blackberry mojito (made with Havana Club 3-years rum, fresh mint, house-made mint syrup, fresh blackberries, lime and soda) are highlights. There’s plenty of non-alcholic options as well with an extensive list of mocktails, coffees, teas, juices and sodas.

While also a go-to spot for breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea, the Oriental Lounge on the 38th floor is a refined location to enjoy a vast selection of liquors from around the world, as well as a gamut of original cocktails. The restaurant serves as the nucleus of the hotel, and the cocktail menu is a thing of wonder with classic and vintage craft cocktails tempting the palate. Bespoke Bubbles (a selection Collins, fizzes, punch and Champage cocktails) are a great way to start any evening.

Meanwhile, oenophiles will adore The Cellar on the 37th floor, a 5,000-bottle wine cellarin-the-sky. A secret spiral staircase from the Mandarin Bar leads to this private space that also offers bespoke menus by the Michelinstarred chefs of Signature and Sense. The classic recipes focus on four distinctive French regions: Provence; Burgundy; Alsace; and Southwest France (with seating for two to 11). Alternatively, the Cellar’s large round table also offers six to 11 guests the option of feasting on authentic Cantonese cuisine.

And for those who’d rather unwind with a spot of tea, the Sense Tea Corner on the 37th floor beckons with a three-tiered wall of fire—perfect for a cozy evening. Choose from more than 20 types of teas mainly from China and Taiwan—from green tea to pu-erh. The gourmet shop offers only the finest homemade sweets collection by the hotel’s pastry chef. The signature cake, Kumo, evokes images of floating clouds and is prepared with a variety of seasonal ingredients.

Kumo Dessert

Sakura Cocktail

The Cellar

THE SPA

For the ultimate in relaxation, The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo delivers. Featuring nine serene treatment rooms— including four multipurpose rooms, four private spa suites and a Spa Studio (offering 20- to 30-minute express treatments)— the spa and its award-winning services have been recognized as the epitome of sophisticated luxury in the city. Each guest’s personalized spa journey begins with a foot ritual and consultation followed by a uniquely tailored treatment that blends Asian and Western-inspired relaxation, beauty and wellness components for a clear sense of well-being. The chic and minimalist design provides an environment attuned to local surroundings and touching all the senses, while providing the perfect atmosphere to achieve the ultimate Zen feeling.

There’s also a high-tech fitness center, a spa boutique, water lounges with massage stations, vitality pools with body jets, dry saunas, crystal steam rooms, and separate men’s and women’s spa areas offering a comprehensive heat experience to relieve stress, release muscle tension, increase blood circulation and promote overall well-being. Try the Totally Tokyo Five Journeys from Nihonbashi (90 minutes for JPY 41,000), featuring five classic Japanese ingredients to stimulate the five senses: pine; bamboo; plum; green tea; and rice hulls. The treatment begins with a cup of hot seasonal tea to be enjoyed while listening to sounds flowing from natural bamboo speakers; a pine-scented foot ritual; and a plum-scented salt foot scrub. A full-body, shiatsu-style massage with warming rice hulls follows. After the massage, fresh plum juice is served to complete the experience. It’s sheer bliss. While at the spa, indulge in an elevated manicure with the Christian Louboutin Manicure Experience (60 minutes for JPY 20,000). The luxe service begins with a hand soak infused with a few drops of your chosen Christian Louboutin perfume oil, followed by nail shaping, cuticle care, a rejuvenating hand exfoliation and a choice of polish from the extensive array of Christian Louboutin nail colors.

Totally Tokyo

The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo

Nihon Bashi

EDO KIRIKO SHOP HANASHO

SEE AND DO AROUND TOWN

Walking around Nihonbashi with the hotel’s original walking map is a great way to explore the authentic culture of Tokyo. Nihonbashi, literally meaning “Japan Bridge,” is a city district of Tokyo, just north of Ginza and northeast of Marunouchi and Tokyo Station. The bridge, after which the district is named, has been the mile zero marker for Japan’s national highway network since the early Edo Period. We check out long-established stores and restaurants, and buildings designated important cultural properties testify to the area’s history. In addition to visiting Nihonbashi Bridge and the Nihonbashi Information Centre, we visited specialty stores such as Kiya, which has been operating since the Edo period, offering knives and living utensils; Ninben, founded in the Edo period, consisting of side-by-side stalls selling katsuobushi (dried bonito) in 1699. Ninben has preserved the traditional taste of Japan, with a focus on Katsuobushi for more than 300 years, including the Meiji, Taisho, Showa and Heisei periods. In 2010, a new store was established nearby in the COREDO Muromachi Building in Nihonbashi. It has continued to enjoy a reputation as a place to discover the deliciousness of genuine dashi (soup stock). Nihonbashi Sembikiya, Japan’s first fruit specialty shop, was founded in 1834 with the aim of enriching lives through the gift of nature’s fruits. These premium fruits are spectacular. Another authentic and special experience was glass-engraving in Edo kiriko style—a manufacturing method in which clear colors and delicate patterns are cut into glass.

A quick cab ride away and a must-visit (plan a day) is Ginza, a district of Chūō, Tokyo, which is akin to Fifth Avenue in New York City and Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. This area is a shopping mecca, home to virtually every premier brand name for fashion, beauty and technology on the planet. With more than 4,000 restaurants; izakayas; lounges; coffee, tea and beer houses of all sizes and types (including 24 Michelin-starred options), not to mention must-see cultural spots, there’s so much to see and do. During Japan’s economic bubble from 1986 to 1992, real estate here was the most expensive in the world. Today Ginza remains one of Tokyo’s most high-end and desirable commercial areas, exuding both modernity and old Tokyo charm. Shrines and temples, many centuries old, are scattered throughout the city, offering a peaceful respite, a moment to absorb and participate in the local culture. Visitors may join in by making an offering and saying a prayer for good luck and fortune. Not-to-miss spots include the nearby Fukutoku Shrine and Meiji Shrine, one of the most popular, located in Shibuya. This Shinto shrine, surrounded by Yoyogi Park, is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken. Also memorable are Sensōji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest, a historic landmark that was built to honor Kannon, the goddess of mercy; and Zojoji Buddhist Temple, surrounded by tall towers including the nearby Tokyo Tower, partly made famous by its appearance in The Wolverine in 2013. Opened in spring 2017, Ginza Six is the district’s largest shopping complex. It deserves several hours of your time. The architecture, the detail and the design are breathtaking. Truly, it’s one of the most beautiful shopping centers I’ve seen. The super-luxe, modern shopping mall houses the most famous food and designer brands (Dior, Rolex and Valentino, to name a few). Chill out on the rooftop garden with views of Ginza and the Tokyo Skytree. Finish the experience at the Noh Theater (located on the basement level).

A major tourist attraction, Tsukiji Fish Market, which just moved to Toyosu, is the world’s greatest fish market. The best chefs and restaurants around the world source their fish here. At auction, a single tuna can sell for up to $30,000. Fruits, vegetables and housewares are also available. Around the corner, Ban-ya Seafood Barbeque is a fun spot for lunch; you pick your fresh fish, vegetables and meats, and cook them up right on your table.

They had me at “kon’nichiwa” at Ginza Itoya, the 12-story flagship location of the well-known stationery and gift emporium. First opened in 1904 as a stationery specialty store, it now boasts theme-specific floors including ine paper and craft, letter and desk, schedule, travel, home, plus a business lounge and farm where vegetables are grown for its top-floor cafe. Whether or not you’re into pens and paper, it’s a must-see, and the perfect place to pick up cool gifts—pens from about $1 to $10,000; notebooks of every size and color; and traditional and modern Japanese items, such as origami and washi paper, and so much more.

All prices exclusive of tax and service charge. 2-1-1, Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, +81.3.3270.8800, mandarinoriental. com/tokyo

Fukutoku Shrine

Tsukiji Fish Market

Ginza Itoya