DENIM WEAR GIOVANA GRANCHI,MARGARITA KAMARYAN AND QIAN LIU
TABLE OF CONTENTS .01
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SECTOR INTRODUCTION
LEVIS History, Know-how, Product portfolio and segmentation, Pricing, Distribution, Positioning.
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EDWIN
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS
History, Know-how, Product portfolio and
History, Know-how, Product portfolio and
segmentation, Pricing, Distribution,
segmentation, Pricing, Distribution,
Positioning.
Positioning.
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DIESEL
DSQUARED2
History, Know-how, Product portfolio and
History, Know-how, Product portfolio and
segmentation, Pricing, Distribution,
segmentation, Pricing, Distribution,
Positioning.
Positioning.
TABLE OF CONTENTS .07
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LIFESTYLE & TARGET
PROMOTED VALUES Denim leading players.
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CUSTOMER PORTRAIT
CONSUMER EXPECTATIONS
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THE WARDROBE
PRODUCT ANALYSIS
Denim and trousers, Tops and dresses and outwear.
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LIFESTYLE & FASHION WEEK
CONCLUSION
DENIM SPORTSWEAR SECTOR
INTRODUCTION • Denim originates from the city of Nimes in France. • Denim Wear was widely used by the American gold minors since the end of 18th century. Garments made from denim were highly durable reinforced with rivets to keep the items from any tears or damage. • From 1930's Hollywood popularized an image of cowboys wearing rustic denim in westerns. The rivalry between Native American tribes and cowboys. • In 1950's famous actors such as James Dean and Marlon Brando symbolized the rebellious aspect of denim for the youth at that time. All this different decades accumulated the distinct look of denim and the liberated lifestyle that derives from the garments creating specific codes to follow for denim wear creators
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f
KEY FACTS
HISTORY 1853:The company is founded in San Francisco by Levis Strauss
1940s:During World War II — blue jeans were declared an essential commodity and were sold only to people engaged in defense work
1918:Levis strauss & Co. produces its first garment for women
1873: The blue jeans was born,the idea was from Jacob Davis, a tailor from Nevada, and the first riveted men’s work pants out o f denim
1890s: jeans
1965:the company’s international division is created, expanded to Europe and Asia
1999: Time magazine named the 501@ jean the Fashion Item of the Century
created the Levi 501@
PIONEER
KNOW HOW Levi’s PROJECT F.L.X new laser grinding technology ● Using laser to create a variety of wear on jeans , the latest Levi’s PROJECT F.L.X.replaces all manual and old processes with efficient laser polishing, it takes only 90 seconds to complete a pair of jeans, with new technology, only need dozens of chemicals ● The designer can design jeans to get old effects in the matching software, and use laser machines to achieve more accurate results, which means that can reduce the waste from failed attempt
● Womenswear, Menswear
SPECIAL LINES：501@ jeans
Sweatshirt ＆Sweaters ● Logo hoodie ● Crewneck sweatshirt ● Pullover hoodie ● Zip up sweatshirt ● oversized L tab hoodie
Outerwear Trucker jacket Moto jacket Mari coat Trench coat Trucker chore coat ● Travel jacket ● Kora Bomber jacket ● ● ● ● ●
Jeans & Shorts ● ● ● ●
Fit shorts Cargo shorts Cut-off shorts Regular Taper True chino shorts ● Silver Tab shorts ● Straight jeans
Dresses & Skirts ● Mini skirts ● Western dress ● Cropped Taper jumpsuit ● sweatshirt dress ● Mid length skirt ● Frida dress ● trucker dress
THE COLLECTION
PRICING Womenswear and Menswear
Product Category
Starting Price /USD （discount price)
Top price
39.98
139.98
39.98
349.98
20
209.98
34.98
298
25
204.98
498
49.98
POSITIONING Levi’s particular positioning represents the core of its marketing strategy - the position of the products, created increased differentiation. Target Market: ● Upper middle class: some potential customers are belong to this class who tend to buy products from brands like Levi’s. ● Upper class: Price factor never affect this people. they pay attention to prestige of the brand and style of the product. Levi’s is a perfect fit for those. Levi’s focuses on both the genders for them.
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THE PRESENCE
DISTRIBUTION
● Levi's own stores: Levi’s clothing is sold in more than 110 countries. The brand owns more than 500 stores in the whole world, Levi’s products are sold in their own stores, Authorized retailers. ● Wholesale: Multi-brands stores as BHV or the Printemps in Paris. ● Online: Levi’s is sold through its own website and through other websites as Asos for instance.
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LEVI’S STORES
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
STYLE
- Design is contemporary, raw and industrials. Materials used are wood, aluminum - Colors used are warm. - Rooms are large. - Finally, it allows creating a warm and cozy atmosphere.
European flagship is located in the Champ Elysees ● VINTAGE / INDUSTRIAL/COZY ● Based on consumers’ experience : “ A discovery” , “a road trip” at the heart of Levi’s band Concept stores : for instance in Tokyo ● created around the heritage and the values of the brand ● designed with raw materials
PROMOTED VALUES ● “Sustainability” remains core to the brand ● Concept of eco jeans ● Products that are made of progress ● Different shades of blue and trendy always ● Range of merchandise ● Known for best denim material
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KEY FACTS
HISTORY
1963: EDWIN produces the world’s heaviest ringspun denim jean (16oz), with the iconic three-colour rainbow selvedge.
1947: Established in Japan by Mr Tsunemi.
1951: The first domestically manufactured denim is available in Japan.
1970-1980: Developed for the first time in the market the Old wash and stone wash, what was a revolution
1990: Created the concept of "new vintage jeans, replicating vintage washes from archive references.
1961: Creation of the first pair of jeans
2003: Foundation of Edwin Europe to develop exclusive products for this market
DENIM WASH
KNOW HOW
THE COLLECTION
PRODUCT PORTFOLIO
Knitwear
Outerwear
Trousers
Tops
Accessories • • • • • • • • • •
THE COLLECTION
PRICING Product Category
Starting Price
Top price
CRAFTSMANSHIP
POSITIONING
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THE PRESENCE
DISTRIBUTION
● Retail: The official website and storesin London, Paris, Marseille, Berlin and Milan ● Wholesale: Specialized stockists: Kiliwatch, Printemps ● Online Retailers: Asos, Burner, Fusshop, Urban Outfitters. ● Resale: Ebay ● Today operating only and Europe, the brand will open a store in the USA soon.
•
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EDWIN’S STORES
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
STYLE - Simplicity
LONDON
- Comfortable
LONDON- Henrietta Street
- Wood
- Minimalist
- Rustic environment
- Indirect lights
- Vintage military surplus
- Luminous
accessories
PROMOTED VALUES • • •
&
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KEY FACTS
HISTORY 1968:The Calvin Klein brand is launched in the USA by Calvin Richard Klein.
1990: The company close the year in red for the 5th consecutive year.
1994: A partnership later renamed Designer Holdings Ltd. bought Calvin Klein's fading jeans business for about $50 million.
1979: Calvin Klein controls one-fifth of the designer jeans segment in the market.
2012: PVH acquired Calvin Klein Jeans and finally have all the brands of Calvin Klein Inc.
1980: Controversial campaign with Brooke Shields
TODAY: The group PVH announced the creation of another premium brand called "CALVIN KLEIN JEANS EST. 1978" of America through the vision of Chief Creative Officer, Raf Simons.
THE PERFECT FIT
KNOW HOW
THE COLLECTION
PRODUCT PORTFOLIO • Womenswear, Menswear and Kidswear • The Kids wear collection is designed as a extension of the adults line. • Est. 1978: Designed by Raf Simons.
Knitwear • • • • •
Sweater Sweatshirts Jumper Cardigans Knit
Outerwear • • • • • • • • • •
Trucker Denim Jackets Leather biker jacket Leather aviator jacket Coach Jacket Bomber Windbreakers Coats Quilted jackets Quilted waistcoat Parkas
Trousers & Shorts • • • • • •
Denim Pants 5 Pockets Twill Pants Chino Pants Sweat Pants Twill Shorts Denim Shorts
• • • • • • •
Tops
Dresses & Skirts
Short sleeve t-shirt Long sleeve t-shirt Polo Jeans & Twill shirts Yarn dyed shirt Solid color Woven shirt Crepe blouses
• • • • • • • • •
T-shirt dress Sweatshirt dresses Polo dress Sleeveless knit dress Denim Jumpsuit Jersey dresses Shirt dresses Denim skirt Corduroy skirt
THE COLLECTION
PRICING • Womenswear and Menswear
Product Category
Starting Price
• Kidswear
Top price
Product Category
Starting Price
Top price
● Retail: The official website and approximately 200 retail stores (full price and THE PRESENCE
outlet locations) ● Wholesale: Approximately 730 concessions and approximately 150 franchisee stores. It has departmental stores, direct distributors and specialised outlets at its disposal in nearly 21 countries.
DISTRIBUTION
● Online Retailers: House of Fraser and Macy’s
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MODERN AND YOUNG
POSITIONING
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PROMOTED VALUES • Known worldwide for the sexually suggestive, provocative and controversy campaigns • Strong advertising • #MyCalvins: Stared by celebrities wearing denim or underwear in the campaign, but also invite the customers to share their pictures using the pieces. • Social celebrities: Calvin Klein chosen the most popular celebrities for its campaigns such as Kardashian sisters and Justin Bieber.
CALVIN KLEIN STORES
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
STYLE - Contemporary - Industrial inspired interior - Bold color accent
- Cement - Industrial lighting rail - Advertising totem - Denim exposed as commodity - Family’s Products exposed in hacks
- Simple facade - Dynamic scenarios on the display window.
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KEY FACTS
I
In 1978 Renzo Russo created DIESEL He has said that he learned marketing from US, creativity from Italy and systems from Germany.
HISTORY
OTB Group the acronym for “Only The Brave”
Headquarters are situated in Breganze, Italy
FIT & WASH
KNOW HOW
THE COLLECTION
PRODUCT PORTFOLIO • Womenswear, Menswear and Kidswear
Knitwear
Outerwear
• Sweater
• Trucker Denim Jackets
Trousers & Shorts
• T-shirt
• T-shirt dress
• Sweatshirts
• Leather biker jacket
• Denim
• Denim shirts
• Sweatshirt dresses
• Jumper
• Bomber
• Chino Pants
• Silk blouses
• Jersey dresses
• Coats
• Sweat Pants
• Western Shirt
• Shirt dresses
• Quilted jackets
• Denm Shorts
• Denim skirt
• Leather Pants
• Leather skirt
• Cardigans
• Parkas
Tops
Dresses & Skirts
THE COLLECTION
PRICING Product Category
Starting Price
Top price
THE PRESENCE
DISTRIBUTION
Present in more than 80 countries with worldwide shipping. 5 thousand sale points around the world. 400 Diesel independent stores. Online Retailers: Zalando and Asos. 37
MODERN AND YOUNG
POSITIONING • Diesel portraits itself as a leading pioneer of denim into the world of premium casual apparel. • Thriving on change and constant innovation the brand stands for individuality, provocation and self-expression. • “ We decode the world around us, take it apart and unlock what we thought we knew. We see differently and unite with those who see it too."
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PROMOTED VALUES • Diesel puts provocative values in their ad campaigns. Freedom and self expression is heavily advertised. They propose you to act and not think! To act depending on feeling not analisis or logic. • Denim is the main modern day unisex item, the notion of wearing denim and being in love, exploring owns sexuality is reinforced in ad campaigns.
DIESEL’S STORES
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
STYLE - The store looks like a rustic factory where they restore vintage bikes. Metal installations, dim lighting and concrete or wooden floor accentuated masculinity. Stores evoke the history of denim, the rebellious behavior of bikers, strength of soldiers and cowboys.
- Metal - Rustic factory environment - Masculinity - Dim lighting - Vintage bikes
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KEY FACTS
HISTORY
WASH
KNOW HOW
THE COLLECTION
PRICING Product Category
Starting Price
Top price
THE COLLECTION
PRODUCT PORTFOLIO • Womenswear, Menswear and Kidswear
Knitwear • Sweater • Sweatshirts
Outerwear • Trucker Denim Jackets • Leather biker jacket
• Jumper
• Bomber
• Cardigans
• Coats • Quilted jackets • Parkas
Trousers & Shorts • Denim
Tops • T-shirt • Denim shirts
• Chino Pants • Silk blouses • Denim Shorts • Western Shirt • Leather Pants
Dresses & Skirts • Gowns • Jersey dresses • Shirt dresses • Denim skirt • Leather skirt • Baby doll dress
THE PRESENCE
DISTRIBUTION
- The official website and stores. - Online Retailers: Yoox, Farfetch - Store by location: Africa, Asia, Europe, Middle East and North America.
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POSITIONING • Dsquared2 brand presents glamourous, strong and kitsch aesthetic. Playful and witty. • Portraying denim as a luxury item. • Dean and Dan are front and center of the brand.
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PROMOTED VALUES • Dsquared2 holds special attention to the Canadian roots and to sportswear by designing the winter Olympics uniform. • Nudity, sexualy provocative images are presented in ad compains to show that denim can feel like second skin, therefore can make you feel liberated and confident. • Dean and Dan place themself as the best representative of the brand, their unique connection. Being their customer means being the part of family.
DIESEL’S STORES
VISUAL MERCHANDISING STYLE • Rustic inspiration taken on to a more polished and sophisticated level. • Dim lighting, leather furniture and concrete flooring. • Decorations from natural materials such as wood or fur evoke the canadian DNA of the brand. • Collection is displayed in a color coordinated way.
- Sophisticated - Leather furniture - Concrete - Color coordination
THE ENVIRONMENT & LIFESTYLE
LEADING PLAYERS MAP Price
As all denim specialist brands focus their attention mainly on the denim fabric, textile innovation is a priority for a lot of brands. Textile Innovation
LIFESTYLE VALUES ● Not only a symbol of democratisation, put different classes on a level playing field. They were affordable and hard-wearing, looked good worn as well as new, and didn't have to be washed often or ironed at all. ● Conformed to the body in a way that matched even the most finely tailored clothes. ● This versatility, the ability to become all things to all people ● Had become this neutral foundational garment.
HIPSTERS
CUSTOMER PORTRAIT ● Denim garments are present in most wardrobes, but the age group from 15 to 30 years old can have the freedom to wear denim most days of the week. Hipsters would be the best way to describe current denim connoisseur. ● Vegan and vegetarian restaurants are gaining popularity, as healthy lifestyle and environmental issues become a priority. ● Interest in collecting vintage items and in different ethnic craftsmanship. ● Going to movies, barber shops, coffee specialist and online dating are favourite weekend activities. 53
EXPECTATIONS ● Consumer expects perfect fit of the denim. Longevity of the garment, not to stretch and lose shape after multiple washes, so the denim keeps looking better with age. ● Comfort of the fabric and the construction. ● Younger consumers are becoming more environmentally conscious, so they are more and more interested about the transparency of the brands.
KEY PRODUCTS
THE WARDROBE TRUCKER
LOGO T-SHIRT
SWEATSHIRT WITH HOOD
SWEATSHIRT
BIKER
JEANS SHIRT
PUFFED JACKET
PARKA
CHECKED SHIRT
BOMBER
WESTERN SHIRT
KEY PRODUCTS
THE WARDROBE REGULAR
STRAIGHT
SLIM
CHINO
DENIM MINI SKIRT
BOYFRIEND JEANS STRAIGHT JEANS
SLIM FIT
SKINNY JEANS
SUPER SKINNY
T-SHIRT DRESS
KEY PRODUCTS
THE WARDROBE
DETAILS
PRODUCT ANALYSIS
BANDANA
CHECKED
LOGO
LEATHER
MILITARY MEDAL
DENIM
KNIT
CROSS CORDUROY
MICROFIBER
COTTON JERSEY
SHERPA
RIVET
LIFESTYLE & FASHION WEEK Designers use the same codes as denim specialist brands, but have more freedom to play with codes, to accentuate them. Ripped denim, patchwork, western and oversized looks were on the runway. Puffy coats and even sweatpants were present on Paris Fashion Week.
BALMAIN
SACAI
BALENCIAGA
LIFESTYLE & FASHION WEEK
RED VALENTINO
R13
BURBERRY
LIFESTYLE & FASHION WEEK
ISABEL MARANT Photo: InDigital By Héloïse Salessy 01 October 2018
COACH
MISSONI
JUNYA WATANABE
CONCLUSION â—? Denim elevated from clothing for hard labor to a staple item in the wardrobe of the modern day. Clothing made from denim are considerate an acceptable unisex apparel that builds a bridge between sexes. â—? By keeping all the codes that make denim iconic it is recognised around the world as the main representative of the lifestyle. â—? Garments made out of denim have been the go-to items for generations and will not lose popularity. Denim creators must think about the sustainability of cotton and reinvention of dyeing techniques to keep up with the growing environmental awareness of consumers.
RESOURCES: ● https://www.forbes.com/sites/josephdeacetis/2018/04/30/rave-the-rhythm-with-diesel/#784748ec70 8b ● https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/throwback-thursday-calvin-klein-ads-of-the-90s/ ● https://edwin-europe.com/our-story ● https://theidleman.com/manual/arrivals/brands/10-things-you-didnt-know-about-edwin/ ● https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/edwin-japan-unique-denim-manufacturer-video/ ● http://www.company-histories.com/Calvin-Klein-Inc-Company-History.html ● https://www.pvh.com/brands/calvin-kleinhttps://dealbook.nytimes.com/2012/10/31/pvh-to-buy-warna co-group-for-2-9-billion/ ● https://retaildesignblog.net/2012/03/27/edwin-store-london/m ● https://www.marketing91.com/marketing-mix-calvin-klein/ ● http://marketingtherainbow.info/case%20studies/ck.html ● https://www.calvinklein.pt/sculpted-black-stretch-skinny-jeans-15192472 ● https://www.instagram.com/calvinklein/ ● https://thejeansblog.com/denim-brand-history/the-history-of-diesel-jeans/ ● http://www.levistrauss.com/our-story/heritage-timeline/heritage-timeline-2/ ● https://levisvsdiesel.wordpress.com/2013/12/07/the-distribution-strategy-of-levis-and-diesel/ ● https://www.levistrauss.com/unzipped-blog/2018/02/27/project-f-l-x-redefines-future-jeans-designed -made-sold/ ● https://www.bicestervillage.com/en/style-notes/news/qanda-with-dsquared2-founders/ ● https://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/runway-trend-take-a-look-at-these-7-patch work-denim-pieces-straight-off-the-fashion-week-runway/53078#defile-junya-watanabe-printemps-e te-2019_image7