BA (Hons.) Fashion Design and Marketing by Giulia Wutz

The Integration of Wearable Technology into Performance Outerwear: Examining Baby Boomersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Distinct Benefits through Smart Clothing Giulia Anna-Maria Wutz A creative project submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirement for the award of the degree BA (Hons.) Fashion: Design and Marketing The London College of Fashion University of the Arts London 5th of May 2015

Declaration No proportion of the work referred to in this creative project has been submitted in support of an application for another degree or qualification of this institution or any other university or other institution of learning.

Acknowledgement Firstly, I would like to thank my supervisor, Jeun Ho Tsang, for his guidance and insight throughout this creative project. His immeasurable patience has been crucial to my progression during this research study. I would also like to thank my family and friends who have had faith in all my endeavours throughout this degree. Particular gratitude is granted to my parents whose infinite support and unwavering encouragement has been inevitable to me. Finally, I would like to extend a special thanks to my best friend Tina Stebe whose continued support during my studies has been invaluable to me and has helped me overcome all obstacles on the way.

Abstract Wearable technology as a very recent topic is said to be a rapidly growing market over the next decade (Jur and Hodges, 2014). However, so far stable market growth and commercial realities have not been achieved (Wright and Keith, 2014). Commercial success is determined by the adoption rate of innovations (Rogers, 2003). Hence, in order for wearable technology to be adopted, consumer requirements have to be answered and a clear purpose has to be achieved. This study specifically focuses on German female Baby Boomers. Their highly active lifestyle in addition to their high engagement in outdoor activities offers a promising market opportunity to embed wearable technology into performance wear and to create distinct benefits enhancing their overall experience. In order to achieve a full understanding of all variables involved in the adoption process of innovations, extensive primary research and secondary research has been conducted. Primary qualitative data in form of observation and a focus group as well as primary quantitative data in form of a survey, all conducted with German participants, has been compared and contrasted. Two academic frameworks - FEA Model of Consumer Needs (Lamb and Kallal, 1992) and TAM Technology Acceptance Model (Davis 1989) - were used to analyse the research findings in order to achieve a valid sample. The primary research analysis confirmed that an end-user led design approach is necessary for the development of wearable technology with distinct benefits. The frameworks used are limited. Therefore, the researcher suggests a new model which can be used to evaluate and understand the adoption process of performance wear with embedded wearable technology. In addition, the research findings confirmed the integration into the layering system as the best solution for wearable technology, as suggested in academic literature (Tao, 2005; Shishoo, 2005, 2010; McCann and Bryson, 2009). In this research paper, the concept has been adapted to a two-layer system creating the multiX jacket, a lifestyle product which incorporates wearable technology in a seamless non-obtrusive manner and therefore improves German female Baby Boomersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; performance and safety, and enhances their overall outdoor experience. In case of this study, a clear purpose of wearable technology is created through answering German female Baby Boomersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; demand for multifunctionality, developing a flexible performance outerwear which can be adapted to various outdoor activities and seasonal circumstances. Total number of words: 7897

Table of Contents Contents

Title

Chapter 1

Introduction

1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5

Page Number 1-5

Definition of Key Terminology Rationale Research Aim and Objective Design of Research Methodology Research Outline

Chapter 2 2.1 2.2 2.3

Literature Review Investigation of Wearable Technology Wearable Technology and its Correlation German Female Baby Boomers’ Lifestyle and Consumer Behaviours

Chapter 3 3.1 3.2 3.2.1 3.2.2 3.3 3.4

Chapter 4 4.1 4.1.1 4.1.2 4.1.3 4.2 4.3

Chapter 5 5.1 5.1.1 5.1.2 5.2 5.3

Chapter 6 6.1 6.2 6.3

Research Methodology Research Approach: Mixed Method Triangulation Research Techniques and Procedures Primary Research Data Collection Techniques Data Analysis Procedures Limitations and Time Horizon Ethical Considerations

Research Findings Findings: Primary Research Observation Focus Group Survey Research Hypothesis Testing – Contrasting of Frameworks with Collected Quantitative and Qualitative Data Finding Evaluation

Design Process and Product Positioning Influences of Primary Research Results on the Design Process of the multiX Jacket Garment Components Electronic Components Developments Obstacles and Prototype Improvement Commercial Realties of Wearable Technology

Conclusion and Recommendations Conclusion Research Implications Limitations and Recommendations for Future Research

2 2-3 4 4 5 6-17 7-8 9-15 16-17 18-24 19 19-23 19-21 22-23 24 24 25-35 26-30 26 26-28 29-30 31-33 33-35 36-46 37-43 38-40 40-43 44 45-46 47-50 48 48-49 50

References

51-56

Bibliography

57-63

Appendices Appendix A Appendix B Appendix C Appendix D Appendix E Appendix F Appendix G Appendix H Appendix I Appendix J Appendix K Appendix M Appendix L Appendix N Appendix O Appendix P Appendix Q

multiX Jacket – Images multiX Jacket – Instruction Observation Wearable Technology Show UK 2015 Observation Visijax and Kolon Sport Jacket Key Findings Focus Group – Infographic Key Focus Group Findings – Notes Focus Group Transcript Electronics Shown to Focus Group Participants Consent Form Administrated to Focus Group Participants (BLANK) Signed Consent Forms from Focus Group Participants Survey Results +45 year-old German Females – Infographic Key Survey Results +45 year-old German Females Survey Results +18 – 35 year-old German Females – Infographic Key Survey Results +18 – 35 year-old German Females Survey Results Including all German Participants Personal Professional Development List and Visual Checklist of Creative Submission

64 65 66-67 68-69 70 71-73 74-82 83 84 85-94 95 96 97 98 99-108 109-112 113-114

List of Tables Table 2.1

Key aspects of wear comfort

Table 2.2

The integration of electronic components in the three-layer system

Table 2.3

Acceptance of innovation

Table 3.1

Primary research conduction

Table 3.2

Hypotheses in regards to consumer requirements

Table 5.1

Key primary research findings

Table 5.2

Key issues with performance wear

Table 5.3

Design considerations of the multiX jacket

20-21

iii Â

List of Figures Figure 2.1

The process tree for examining the co-design area of smart

clothing and wearable technology (McCann and Bryson, 2009:64) Figure 2.2

The FEA Model of Consumer Needs (Lamb and Kallal, 1992)

Figure 2.3

The TAM Technology Acceptance Model (Davis, 1989)

Figure 2.4

The Diffusion of Innovation Adoption Model after Rogers (2003)

Figure 4.1

Adapted FEA Model of Consumer Needs (Lamb and Kallal, 1992)

illustrating German female Baby Boomers’ requirements in wearable technology integrated into performance wear Figure 4.2

Infographic outlining focus group key findings

Figure 4.3

Infographic outlining survey key findings regarding Baby Boomers’

lifestyle habits, performance wear perceptions and technology inhibitions Figure 4.4

Adoption process of performance wear with integrated wearable

technology as suggested by the researcher of this study Figure 5.1

Outer layer of the multiX jacket

Figure 5.2

Insulation layer of the multiX jacket

Figure 5.3

Diffusion of Innovation Adoption Model adapted to German female

Baby Boomers Figure 6.1

The multiX jacket prototype

Chapter One Introduction

1. INTRODUCTION 1.1 Definition of Key Terminology Wearable technology: Term used to describe various different forms of body-mounted technology, including wearable computers, smart clothing and functional clothing (Dunne, 2004). This paper constrains itself to wearable technology integrated into clothing Smart fabrics: Smart textile materials with the ability to sense and react to external conditions (temperature and humidity), communications, light emission and shielding the wearer from radiation (Stylios, 2004) Smart clothing: ‘Garment-integrated devices which augment the functionality of clothing or which impart information-processing functionalities to a garment’ (Dunne, Ashdown and Smyth, 2005:2) Performance outerwear: Apparel purchased to facilitate sport participation where function is of highest importance, but can also be seen as a fashion item where emphasis lies on perception and form rather than function (Salazar, 2008) Seamless integration: Incorporation of wearable technology into clothing in a nonobtrusive smooth manner with no apparent gaps or space between the garment and the electronic components (Seymour, 2008) Baby Boomers: A group born between 1946 and 1964, with the youngest being 51 years old and the oldest being 69 years old as of 2015 (Howden and Meyer, 2011) Distinct benefits: Actual or perceived degree to which the end-user feels their underlying needs satisfied and thinks to have gained a relative advantage due to the product’s purpose through product adoption (Bryson in McCann and Bryson, 2009) 1.2 Rationale Wearable technology as a currently rapidly growing market is a highly discussed topic and according to a report from IDTechEx - a leading institute for technology - the wearable electronic business will grow from 20 billion dollars in 2015 to almost 70 billion in 2025 (Harrop et al., 2015). The industry for wearable technology is, therefore, said to have one of the fastest growing markets holding a vast amount of opportunities for future development and expansion.

So far, performance wear has been at the forefront of wearable technology. Main acceptance and adoption of wearable technology has been detected in this sector as it can be used to track and monitor performance (Jur and Hodges, 2014). In defiance to the predicted fast growth, analysts are split on wearables’ traction, as well as their future potential (Wright and Keith, 2014). Even though wearable technology products are innovative and are said to be promising, a large amount of devices are not achieving commercial success and are failing user adoption (Smith, 2014). Most wearables lack clear benefits and are not designed considering consumers’ underlying needs and wants. Developing wearable technology products is a design challenge, as it merges two different industry sectors and therefore demands to take a step back and start again from ‘zero’ to understand consumer requirements and add a clear purpose to the product. This paper focuses on the German consumer market due to the German outdoor lifestyle and the high engagement in leisure activities. Since Germany’s geographic features range from big mountains like the Zugspitze and the Bavarian Alps and various big lakes all over Germany to the coastal areas in Northern Germany like the North and East Sea, being outdoors and in touch with nature is a cultural phenomenon. Especially German Baby Boomers are highly active members in sports clubs, with over 44,3% of over 41 year-old Germans being in one or more sports clubs according to the German Statistisches Bundesamt (DE Statis, 2014:209). The highest memberships are detected in skiing clubs, Alpinist associations, triathlon and sailing clubs (DE Statis, 2014:210) what can be ascribed to the German geographic features mentioned before. German female Baby Boomers want to retain their youthful looks and therefore place a high emphasis on exercising and outdoor activities (KPMG – EHI Retail Institute, 2012). In addition, Germany acquires the largest market for wearable technologies with a share of 32% in 2012. ‘Technological innovations presented through various conferences on wearable technologies have created awareness and increased their adoption in the country’ (Research and Markets, 2014). Offering a potential market for wearable technology products with this high engagement in outdoor activities in Germany, affirms the integration of wearable technology into performance wear targeting the German female Baby Boomers. As a result, this research paper aims to examine the seamless integration of wearable technology into performance outerwear to achieve distinct benefits for German female Baby Boomers engaging in outdoor activities. The finalized wearable technology garment is intended to answer German female Baby Boomers’ key demands during outdoor engagement.

1.3 Research Aim and Objectives Aim: To develop the seamless integration of wearable tech into performance outerwear with distinct benefits for German female Baby Boomers Objectives: 1. To understand the wearable technology market, its future potential and correlation to the performance wear market 2. To investigate and understand German female Baby Boomers’ lifestyle, consumer behaviour and requirements regarding wearable technology integrated into performance outerwear 3. To explore smart technology fabrics and wearable electronic devices 4. To develop a design concept from findings with distinct benefits of non-intrusive wearable technology 1.4 Design of Research Methodology The investigation of wearable technology involves complex variables and therefore requires ‘a merging of methodologies across disparate disciplines to inform the application of wearable technology in smart clothes’ (McCann and Bryson, 2009:63). The research paper is engaged with Pragmatism as it allowed a flexible research methodology. The data collection involved a mixed methodology approach using both qualitative and quantitative data collection techniques and analysis procedures at the same time in form of observation, a focus group and a survey to gain more information about Baby Boomers’ behaviour and needs. The use of triangulation allowed ‘better opportunities to answer the research question and to evaluate the extent to which findings may be trusted and inference made’ (Saunders et al., 2009: 160). The collected data was put against two theoretical frameworks (FEA Consumer Needs Model, TAM Technology Adaption Model) to justify the findings and to inform the design development. More information on the research methodology can be found in Chapter 3.

1.5 Research Outline Chapter One – Introduction: Presents the reader with an overview of the topic. Definitions of terms are outlined and their linkage is explained, whilst the rationale provides justification for the topic. Chapter Two – Literature Review: Critically explores the wearable technology market and its relation to performance wear through an examination of existing academic literature as part of the secondary research process. Presents key arguments that arose within the area and shows that current literature does not explicitly explore the seamless integration of wearable technology in performance wear. Chapter Three – Research Methodology: Provides a full and inclusive structure of the research design for the primary investigation explaining the chosen philosophy, strategies and methods used to conduct the research. Chapter Four – Analysis: Investigates consumer requirements through primary research findings in accordance to the strategies outlined in Chapter 3. Hypotheses testing illustrates the adoption process of performance wear with embedded wearable technology. Chapter Five – Design Solution: Examines the primary research results and their influence on the design development process, outlining technical difficulties and commercial realities with the example of the multiX jacket. Chapter Six – Conclusion: Discusses the outcome of all findings. Research implications are presented and recommendations for future research are outlined.

Chapter Two Literature Review

2. LITERATURE REVIEW This chapter investigates the current literature around wearable technology illustrating the current context of the subject area. It examines the terminology itself and looks at its correlation to performance wear taking into consideration consumer requirements. 2.1 Investigation of Wearable Technology Wearable technology itself is a complex term as it is considered both, a device and a garment (Dunne, 2004) integrating both clothing and technology. Due to the subject area being cutting-edge and rapidly developing, researchers and specialists differ in how to describe and define this multiplex terminology. In current literature several terms are used to characterize wearable technology. Tao (2005) uses the term ‘intelligent apparel’ to describe a class of apparel that has active functions in addition to the traditional properties of clothing. ‘These novel functions or properties are obtained by utilising special textiles or electronic devices, or a combination of the two’ (Tao, 2005:158). In this definition, clothing is seen as a basic property that gets enhanced through wearable technology and, thereupon, creates an interface between the body and the external world. Accordingly, the electronic components can be seen as an ‘add on’, as an intelligent garment ideally ‘offers a non-traditional garment function, such as health monitoring, in addition to its traditional function as protection of the body’ (Malmivaara in McCann and Bryson, 2009:5). Moreover, Watson argues ‘wearable technology combines the functionality of electronics with the convenience of fabrics and clothing.’ (2013:2). As a result, value is added to the basic property of clothing by making it ‘intelligent’ and, therefore, higher efficiency and improvement of the wearer’s safety is achieved. Sabine Seymour takes the term even further by talking about ‘fashionable wearables’ (2008, 2010). However, she also suggests that traditional garments ‘can be modified for use as a fashionable wearable’ (Seymour, 2008:24). All scientists agree that clothing offers the perfect platform for the integration of wearable technology due to several reasons. First of all, clothing as an important and special part of our environment is ‘personal, close to the body and used almost anywhere and anytime’ (Tao, 2005:178) and is a major contributor to how people define and perceive themselves. Hence, it can serve as a medium for technology as it is ‘versatile, mobile, universal and adaptable’ (Saifee in McCann and Bryson, 2009:127) with all human beings, notwithstanding of their geographical location and cultural background, wearing clothing.

Nevertheless, a threat arises by challenging the traditional concepts of apparel through the integration of wearable technology (Saifee in McCann and Bryson, 2009) as two separate and notably different industry sectors are required for the development of wearable technology (Hurford in McCann and Bryson, 2009). Hurford (in McCann and Bryson, 2009) highlights that the collaboration between these sectors is difficult as they have differences in language, working practice, development time frames and marketing strategies. Consequently, these differences in profession are leading to confusion in each sector and require a specific approach to solve this issue. McCann points out the need for a ‘shared language’ (in McCann and Bryson, 2009:46) and vision that will help the mergence of the two disciplines enabling the production of ‘new, exciting and life improving desirable products’ (Stylios, 2009) and, as before mentioned above, elevate the wearer’s reality. Correspondingly, in order for wearable technology to achieve commercial success, the integration of wearable technology in a seamless manner is inevitable. Seamless integration is also referred to as ubiquitous computing. Seymour explains the term as follows: ‘ubiquitous means that computing is seamlessly present everywhere, but in the case of wearables it is actually embedded in clothing and accessories’ (2008:19). Building electronic components into everyday objects allows them to blend in, thus, they do not interfere with general habits and perspectives. Only when technology is non-obtrusive offering both aesthetic as well as functional advantages, it will be appealing to today’s sophisticated consumers (Kessler, 2014) As a result, as noted by the Applied Arts Industry ‘[w]ith an industry still in its infancy, that balance may take some time to be achieved.’ (2014:32)

2.2 Wearable Technology and its Correlation with Performance Wear So far, the integration of wearable technology has been most successful in the sports industry. Historically, the performance wear sector has been ‘an early adopter of technical textiles and ‘high tech’ solutions and this early adopter status has not changed for commercial smart clothing and wearable technology products’ (Hurford in McCann and Bryson, 2009:39). The industry is a highly innovative field, investing heavily in research and development, trying to pioneer new technologies and concepts and to further performance and comfort (Bramel, 2005). A high need for innovation is also required in order to improve athletes’ achievements (Wardiningsih and Troynikov, 2010). Nevertheless, it also has to be considered that the sector can be divided into training/professional sport and casual sport with both categories differing in requirements (Hurford in McCann and Bryson, 2009). Both are driven by function and form, with function having a higher importance for professional athletes and form being of higher priority for casual sport activities. McCann outlines the concept as following: ‘form embraces aesthetic concerns and the importance of respecting the culture of the end-user, and function embraces the generic demands of the human body and the particular demands of the end use or activity’ (in McCann and Bryson, 2009:47). Malmivaara also points out that ‘sports are never out of fashion’ (in McCann and Bryson, 2009:12) meaning that it is not only led by trends to give the garment itself a longer lifecycle. This allows the garment to match up with the lifecycle of an electronic device and, therefore, means a longer product lifecycle for wearable technology. In addition to that, as Malmivaara (in McCann and Bryson, 2009) argues, in performance wear, wearable technology has a clear purpose beneficial for both training athletes and regular consumers in form of offering comfort, providing protection and minimizing injuries. Consequently, performance wear’s innovation driven and specialist know-how offers an already high understanding of technical aspects and is therefore the ‘most promising application’ (Stegmaier et al. in Shishoo, 2010:132) for the integration of wearable technology. Most important in the design process of wearable technology performance wear garments is to understand the key characteristics of the garment which will primarily determine the commercial success of the product. Bartels argues, wear comfort is the most important factor in clothing and especially in sportswear as ‘producers who are able to convince the end user of their product’s comfort benefits have an advantage’ (in Shishoo, 2010:200). The following table explains the key aspects of wear comfort (e.g. Table 2.1).

Table 2.1 Key aspects of wear comfort Thermophysiological:

Comprises heat and moisture transport processes through the clothing and directly influences a person’s thermoregulation -> key notions include thermal insulation, breathability and moisture management through the application of special fibres and fabric construction and the provision of ventilation in the garment

Skin sensorial:

Characterizes the mechanical sensations caused by textiles as it is in direct contact with the skin. Pleasant and unpleasant perception such as smoothness or softness, scratchiness, stiffness, or clinging to sweatwetted skin may be created by textiles

Ergonomic:

Deals with the fit of clothing and the freedom of movement it allows -> garment construction (pattern and fit) and fabric properties (elasticity)

Psychological:

Affected by fashion, personal preferences and ideology -> includes perceived comfort which is determined by how the wearer experiences the garment itself

Key aspects of wear comfort as adapted from Shishoo (2010)

Comfort is mostly determined by how it is perceived relating in sportswear to fit, mobile functionality but also appearance (Wardiningsih and Troynikov, 2010). Therefore, it also has a big influence on the wearer’s performance and well being, resulting in consumers demanding high levels of comfort and ease of care in the designs of all types of clothing but especially in performance wear. Accordingly, researchers suggest the layering system as preferable for optimum comfort in sportswear because of the several layers of clothing achieving good thermoregulation, moisture management and protection (Nielsen, 1991; McCann and Bryson, 2009; Tao, 2005).

Table 2.2 The integration of electronic components in the three-layer system: Base layer ‘second skin’

In direct contact with the skin, therefore measuring sensors need to be placed on this layer

Insulation layer ‘mid layer’

Used as an additional insulation to trap air inside the system to provide warmth in cold environments

Outer layer ‘hard shell’

Intended to protect and maintain the function of the whole system -> sensors for environment measurements, positioning equipment, lighting gear, heating systems, textile-based electronic user-interfaces are placed on this layer

(informed by Shishoo, 2010 and McCann and Bryson 2009)

Tao (2005) discusses the three-layer outerwear system for performance wear as the best solution for the integration of wearable technology into apparel. ‘Each layer of the garment system may now provide a potential location for the embedding of wearable technologies’ (McCann et al. in McCann, Bryson, 2009:236) with all layers having to be compatible in order to achieve a product enhancement through wearable technology (Ishtiaque, 2001). As the system is an interface between the wearers and their environment, its functional and electronic properties have to be optimised depending on end-users’ requirements. ‘The selection and positioning of technical textiles within a well-designed clothing ‘layering system’ has the potential to address the functional demands of the modern global 24-hour society, mixing work, relation and everyday activities’ (McCann et al. in McCann and Bryson, 2009:235). Consequently, a multiplex concept can be developed adaptable to several performance sports, seasonal factors, surrounding environments offering flexibility for the potential consumer. However, as argued by Shishoo (2005), the traditional three-layer system can be adapted for commercial outerwear use depending on end-user demands. Tao (2005) agrees with that, adding on that wearable technology garments are generally intended for a very specific use case, therefore, the system can be adjusted and only the relevant intelligence should be implemented in the garment. As a result, all design implementations have to be made with the end-user in mind.

The following chart explains in brief how the design task should be implemented.

Figure 2.1: The process tree for examining the co-design area of smart clothing and wearable technology (McCann and Bryson, 2009:64)

12 Â

‘Good design choices for wearable technology depend on understanding and acknowledging the interdisciplinary variables that affect user interaction with a wearable device’ (Dunne, 2004:i). Alongside usability and functionality, wearable technology integrated into performance outerwear must satisfy user needs with regard to fashion, self-presentation and style. Lamb and Kallal’s (1992) FEA Model of Consumer Needs suggest three dimensions that should be taken into consideration while addressing consumer wants and needs for innovative design – functional, expressive and aesthetic attributes (e.g. Figure 2.2).

Figure 2.2: The FEA Model of Consumer Needs (Lamb and Kallal, 1992)

The design process of wearable technology embedded in performance wear is complex due to many different factors that have to be taken into consideration. Embedding electronics does not only open up technical questions but also constitutes adoption inhibitions within potential consumers.

The term technology is often used interchangeably with innovation. Rogers (1986) states, the newer an innovation also the higher the uncertainty associated with the newness which may prevent consumers from adopting the product. Five perceived attributes of innovation influence the innovation adoption rate also determined as the relative speed with which an innovation is adopted by members of society and the formation of a favourable or unfavourable attitude towards it. The complexity of these variables involved in the acceptance of new technologies requires a deeper examination of the user’s identity including physical, cognitive and social variables as outlined below (e.g. Table 2.3). Table 2.3 Acceptance of innovation Relative Advantage

The degree to which the innovation is more satisfactory than previous alternatives

Compatibility

The degree to which the innovation is consistent with existing norms and values held by adopters

Complexity

The difficulty a consumer has in understanding and learning to use an innovation, including integrating it with other owned artefacts

Triability

The extent to which the innovation may be tested on a limited scale before the decision to adopt or reject is made

Observability

The degree to which the innovation is visible and communicable to others

(adapted after Dunne, 2004; Rogers, 2003)

It is argued that both perceived usefulness and perceived ease of use are the key influence factors in consumers’ attitude towards purchase intention for technology (Dunne, 2004). This exact concept is outlined in Davis’ (1989) TAM Technology Acceptance Model where he discusses perceived usefulness as the direct influence towards technology adoption and the most powerful predictor for intention of use (e.g.

Figure 2.3). Consequently, it can be argued that perceived usefulness relates to the relative advantage the end-user can gain from using a new technology.

Figure 2.3: The TAM Technology Acceptance Model (Davis, 1989)

As a result, it has to be stated that both, garment as well as electronic properties have to be equally considered. Malmivaara states that ‘clothing that has truly ‘wearable’ attributes should both work and look good’ (in McCann and Bryson, 2009:xxi). Bramel (2005) argues that tomorrow’s consumers will be more discerning and nor function neither aesthetics alone will guarantee durable market growth. ‘If functionality aims at satisfying the operative needs of the consumers, the product meaning tickles their emotional and socio-cultural needs’ (Utterback et al., 2006:156-157). Wearable technology is currently at a transition point where a lot of things that previously used to be wishful thinking are now entirely feasible but yet to become reality. Nonetheless, end-users’ perceived distinct benefits through innovation adoption and the product’s ‘fit for purpose’ (Bryson in McCann and Bryson, 2009:105) determine wearable technology’s commercial success.

2.3 German Female Baby Boomers’ Lifestyle and Consumer Behaviour So far most wearable technology has been targeted at a younger market trying to focus on innovators and early adopters who are willing to try controversial products (Seymour, 2008). Nevertheless, McCann argues that ‘current technological advances have the potential to assist the everyday lives of the rapidly growing market, but have often failed to address their social and cultural aspirations’ (in McCann and Bryson, 2009:59). Baby Boomers who are slow adopters in comparison to younger generations occupy an enormous market share, thus, are co-responsible for an innovation’s commercial success. Rogers’ Diffusion of Innovation (2003) illustrates where an innovation reaches its peak. This is also defined as the critical mass that is decisive for general innovation acceptance (e.g. Figure 2.4) Baby Boomers as the first generation that has grown up in a consumer society, have ‘come to expect their individual wants and needs to be satisfied’, states Huber (in Huber and Skidmore, 2003:25). They consider themselves as highly savvy consumers who are aware of their choices and are profoundly sensitive to being patronised. Therefore, they tend not to be among the innovators or early adopters of a product. Baby Boomers await incipient stages, evaluating these and will not adopt new products ‘unless there is a considerable advantage to them’ (McCann in McCann and Bryson, 2009:366). Understanding Baby Boomers’ underlying needs and wants is, thus, crucial to ensure an appealing product for them. As a result, when clear benefits are distinct, this big market sector of early and late majority adopters will embrace the innovation, consequently leading to innovation success.

Figure 2.4: The Diffusion of Innovation Adoption Model after Rogers (2003)

As stated in Chapter 1 (e.g. Rationale 1.2), this study will restrict itself to German female Baby Boomers for several reasons which will be outlined further below. The German Baby Boomers, also called ‘die jungen Alten’ (translation: the young elderlies), do not consider themselves as an aging generation (KPMG - EHI Retail

Institute, 2012). As a consequence, it is essential to gain awareness of Baby Boomers’ concerns in ‘prolonging the active, healthy and independent stage of older life’ (Harkin and Huber, 2014:13). A study conducted by the Spiegel Verlag (2007) in Germany with 10.000 participants indicates that outdoor activities are particularly popular especially within the Baby Boomer demographic. Due to Germany’s geographic location and largely sparse population with only a few urban areas, German lifestyle habits are closely linked to nature and being outdoors. This bucolic lifestyle can be detected in the high engagement in sport clubs, with over 44.3% of German Baby Boomers being active members in several sport societies (DE Statis, 2014:209) and reflects their awareness of the importance to stay active in the stage of older life. Especially German female Baby Boomers want to retain their youthful looks and, therefore, place a high emphasis on exercising and outdoor activities (KPMG – EHI Retail Institute, 2012). As a consequence, German Baby Boomers’ lifestyle results in high demand in performance wear where their significance is placed on functionality and efficiency of products with over 72% of research participants indicating that practicality and purpose of the product are the most relevant factors when purchasing (Spiegel, 2007:53). Moreover, Germany who has acquired the largest market for wearable technology with a share of 32% in 2012 has already created awareness and increased wearable technology adoption in the country (Research and Markets, 2014). Hence, a certain inhibition level – as it has already been introduced to innovators and early adopters has already been crossed. The mega trends in regards to general well being and staying fit implies that there is a potential market gap, especially within the early and late majority adopters, for the introduction of wearable technology integrated in performance outerwear. In addition, the incorporation provides a solution for their underlying requirements regarding outdoor activities improving their safety and performance and, hence, enhancing the overall participation. This potential market opportunity will, thus, be further explored through this paper.

Chapter Three Research Methodology

3. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY The following chapter outlines the research methods used to conduct primary research for this paper. The philosophy of Pragmatism allowed a flexible research approach enabling the intertwining of different methods as the complexity of wearable technology demands a multi-disciplinary approach in order to understand the end-user’s underlying requirement perceptions (Duke-Wolley, 2014). This user evaluation process has been necessary to inform subsequent stages in design and technical development, resulting in the functionality of the system being proven (McCann in McCann and Bryson, 2009). The rapid changes in this field required a cross-sectional approach for the study as it is only possible to explore the phenomenon at a particular time providing ideas and concepts that can be taken on for further examination as the subject area develops. 3.1 Research Approach: Mixed Method Triangulation In order to examine and gain a comprehensive understanding about user innovation adoption and consumer requirements regarding performance wear and informing the design process of wearable technology performance outerwear, a cross-sectional mixed-method explanatory study has been chosen as the research method. The emphasis hereby has been placed on studying and explaining the relation between the variables (Saunders et al., 2009) and to understand how it affects the design of the final prototype with implying both qualitative and quantitative data. Consequently, the use of triangulation helped to fully understand ‘the complexity of issues by examining them from different perspectives and generating data in different ways by using different methods’ (Gray and Malins, 2004:121) and allowed ‘better opportunities to answer the research question and to evaluate the extent to which the findings may be trusted and interference made’ (Saunders et al., 2009:160). 3.2 Research Techniques and Procedures 3.2.1 Primary Research Data Collection Techniques The primary research data collection involved a mixed method approach using both qualitative and quantitative data collection techniques at the same time with qualitative data being predominant in this study. The data collection included three different selection tools in form of observation, a focus group and a survey (e.g. Table 3.1).

Table 3.1 Primary research conduction Observation

- Undertaken in form of research files examining electronic components, new fabric technologies and performance wear garment construction - Sketchbooks looked at general design inspiration, current trends, female body shapes, German Baby Boomers’ lifestyle and demographics in Germany, in addition to sports being examined considering the requirements in relation to activities they are participating in providing a preliminary basis of knowledge (Hammersley, 2012) - Observation helped to obtain feedback from the practitioners regarding issues in the particular activity they are anticipating (McCann in Shishoo, 2010) and allowed to identify the wearer’s needs - ‘Observation therefore is a purposeful, systematic and selective way of watching and listening to an interaction or phenomenon that takes place’ (Kumar, 2011:140) and can be used to support and verify the findings from interviews and surveys, however, especially in the design development it also demands flexibility in thinking and being able to critically evaluate the own thinking through ‘meta-thinking’ (Gray and Malins, 2004:38) - the thinking about your thinking - in order to achieve a successful outcome (Gray and Malins, 2004)

Focus Group

- Non-standardised interview undertaken with 10 German female Baby Boomers with an age average of 55 years recruited as a homogenous group with all participants being engaged in outdoor sports in order to collect the best information about the end-user for the wearable technology product (Kumar, 2011) - Conducted as a mainly unstructured interview with open-ended questions allowing the participants to share their experiences in order to gain an in-depth understanding of the end-users’ requirements in performance wear and their perceptions regarding

wearable technology - The focus group produced a ‘rich body of data expressed in the respondent’s own words and context’ (Steward and Shamdasani, 2015:42) which was recorded in German and translated into an English transcript (e.g. Appendix G) - Hence, the focus group has been used as a confirmation tool which stimulated new ideas and creative concepts through learning about a ‘particular concrete situation’ (Steward and Shamdasani, 2015:42) that are inevitable for the success of smart clothing - Possible electronic components have been presented to them in order to find out about their technology inhibitions Survey

Conducted with 69 participants in Germany including all age groups with the youngest participant being 17 and the oldest being 65 years-old including 10 questions regarding personal sport engagement, interest in wearable technology and requirements in performance wear regarding comfort and functionality (e.g. Appendix O)

Posted on several German outdoor sport blogs, in addition to sport club forums to reach out to the particular audience, even though the sample collection itself was random

Used as a confirmation tool for the focus group and to generalize statements of the focus group through the ability of surveys being very descriptive and explanatory providing factual information (Swetnam, 2007)

Used to see how other age demographics consider performance wear and their opinion on wearable technology

3.2.2 Data Analysis Procedures To ensure the validity of the study, the results of the primary research tools have been put against each other’s outcomes. Both a deductive and inductive approach was necessary to verify the findings. An inductive approach collecting qualitative data was required to understand the relation between the different design components, the intended wearer’s physical needs and wants, as well as their perceived view on the product. To validate the qualitative and quantitative findings, a deductive approach has been used in form of primary research findings tested against the two frameworks mentioned below. It is crucial to understand the end-users’ requirements (McCann and Bryson, 2009) regarding performance outerwear and their opinion about new technologies to understand their adoption process. So far, no framework has been created that helps analysing the adoption of wearables. Hence, two suitable models – the FEA Model of Consumer Needs (Lamb and Kallal, 1992) and the TAM Technology Acceptance Model (Davis, 1989) were used to analyse the findings of the focus group and survey. The following hypotheses, developed through secondary research using Lamb and Kallal’s (1992) FEA Model of Consumer Needs and Davis’ (1989) TAM Technology Acceptance Model as frameworks, have been set up to be tested against the findings of the focus group and the survey to validate the findings, to investigate how distinct benefits can be created for the consumers and how the adoption of wearable technology can be improved. Both models were not intended for wearable technology, with TAM being developed for hardware electronics and FEA being developed for consumers with special needs. Consequently, the models have been adapted and the following hypotheses have been established (e.g. Table 3.2).

Table 3.2 Hypotheses in regards to consumer requirements FEA Model of Consumer Needs

1. Perceived comfort of the wearable

(Lamb and Kallal, 1992)

technology jacket is decisive in purchase decisions Previous studies show that physical comfort, as recognized in the functional section of the FEA model was an important factor influencing the overall evaluation of the product (Sontag, 1985) 2. Perceived aesthetic attributes: The wearable technology garment has to be aesthetically appealing and the technology has to be integrated in a seamless manner The aesthetic aspect is central to consumers’ evaluation of apparel (Eckman, Damhorst and Kadolph, 1990) 3. Perceived capability: The wearable technology garment has to fit into consumer’s lifestyle -> expressive considerations relate to the ‘communicative, symbolic aspect of clothes’ (Lamb and Kallal, 1992:43) and are based on the socio-cultural and psychological aspects of dress

TAM Technology Acceptance

1. Perceived ease of use determines ‘the

Model (Davis, 1989)

degree to which a person believes that using a particular system would be free of effort’ (Davis, 1989:320) 2. Perceived usefulness defines ‘the degree to which a person believes that using a particular system would enhance his or her job performance’ (Davis, 1989:320)

3.3 Limitations and Time Horizon To achieve a valid sample for the focus group, participants have been chosen deliberately and the survey has been posted only on German outdoor blogs and sport forums to achieve a random but relevant sample. In addition, a high level of structure in data collection and data analysis has ensured the reliability of the study (Saunders et al., 2009). Within the design development process subjectivity of the researcher has not been avoidable, however, subjectivity is related to educational background, training and competence in research and the researcher’s general philosophical perspective and differs from bias (Kumar, 2011). Gray and Malins also argue that ‘in practice-based research in Art and Design, there is no ‘right way’ to analyse […] [observation] findings’ (2004:132). Due to time constraints with the study only being conducted over several months, this paper only reflects a segment of the wider topic around wearable technology. Hence, generalization of the study and its findings may be possible if the study’s restrictions and its dependency will be considered. This study can provide important implications for both academia and industry. Due to the limited amount of research on consumers’ attitudes towards and purchase intentions for wearable technology, this study addresses a gap in literature. 3.4 Ethical Considerations The ‘appropriateness of behaviour in relation to those who become subject of our work [and] are affected by it’ (Saunders et al., 2009) and objectivity of the researcher have been essential. Informed consent has been acquired from the focus group participants after outlining their rights (right to comment, access of final report, information supplied in confidence to not be disclosed to third parties) and the use of data (purpose of study, methods and intended use) of the study to them (Bell, 2010). In addition, maintenance of confidentiality of data provided by participants and their anonymity had been guaranteed (Dawson, 2009).

Chapter Four Research Findings

4. Research Findings 4.1 Findings: Primary Research 4.1.1 Observation The aim of conducting observations was to further support the data collected from both, qualitative and quantitative methods. This method of research informed the design process regarding garment construction and included the experimentation with electronic components. All findings and evaluations have been kept in research files. In addition to that, observation research has been executed in order to understand German market structures mainly regarding female Baby Boomers, current occurring trends in performance wear and current wearable technology integrated into apparel to inform the design development. Further information on the design process of the multiX jacket can be found in Chapter 5, where the design process decisions are elucidated. 4.1.2 Focus Group The focus group results are presented in two infographics. Buzzwords that have been frequently used by the focus group participants are illustrated in an adapted graphic of the FEA Model (Figure 4.1). In addition to that, the key findings of the focus group are presented in an infographic looking at lifestyle, performance wear and wearable technology requirements of the German female Baby Boomer participants (Figure 4.2). A transcript translated into English as well as a more detailed outline of the focus group results can be found in the appendices (e.g. Appendix E, Appendix F, Appendix G and Appendix H).

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Figure 4.1: Adapted FEA Model of Consumer Needs (Lamb and Kallal, 1992) illustrating German female Baby Boomers’ requirements in wearable technology integrated into performance wear

Figure 4.2: Infographic outlining focus group key findings

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4.1.3 Survey The survey has been conducted with German participants. The following infographic is displaying the survey results of German female Baby Boomers, outlining all key aspects relevant to this study (Figure 4.3). A more detailed synopsis of all findings in addition to all survey questions and results can be found in the appendices (e.g. Appendix E, Appendix F, Appendix G and Appendix H).

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Figure 4.3: Infographic outlining survey key findings regarding Baby Boomers’ lifestyle habits, performance wear perceptions and technology inhibitions

4.2 Research Hypotheses Testing – Contrasting of Frameworks with Collected Quantitative and Qualitative Data The following hypotheses have been established after the FEA Model of Consumer Needs (Lamb and Kallal, 1992) and TAM Technology Acceptance Model (Davis, 1989) in regards to consumer requirements, as previously outlined in Chapter 3. 1. Perceived comfort of the wearable technology jacket is decisive in purchase decisions. Previous studies have shown that wear comfort in regards to garment fit and garment feel, as recognised in the FEA Consumer Needs Model (Lamb and Kallal, 1992), is an important factor influencing the overall evaluation of a product (Sontag, 1985). Primary research findings confirm that perceived comfort is a decisive factor in German female Baby Boomers’ purchasing process (e.g. Chapter 4 - 4.1 Primary Research Findings). Due to their high engagement in outdoor activities, they require comfortable clothing and they also place high importance on the ‘feel good factor’ (Appendix G:40) of a garment. Comfort has a significant impact on the wearer’s performance and well being (Bartels, 2005) and in the case of this study is constraint by thermoregulation and the embedded wearable technology. Heat and moisture transfer properties in different environmental circumstances have to be ensured through beneficial fabric compositions that allow water vapour to escape (Wardiningsih and Troynikov, 2010). Additionally, it has to be considered that electronic components influence the wear comfort if too bulky or too heavy (Tao, 2005). 2. Perceived aesthetic attributes are influenced by the wearable technology jacket’s design and by how seamlessly the technology is integrated into the garment. Former studies have demonstrated that perceived aesthetic attributes influenced females’ decisions in apparel selection during the interest of their purchase, as clothing withholds personal expression and is a major contributor to how people define themselves (Eckman et al., 1990; McCann in McCann and Bryson, 2009; Seymour, 2008). Focus group participants confirmed that unconsciously aesthetic attributes have the highest impact on whether a garment will be tried on in the first place. Hence, if a product does not look

appealing, its chance of being accepted is very low. German female Baby Boomers demand fashionability, as they ‘still want to look attractive and feel sexy’ (Appendix G:102-103). As a result, wearable technology integrated into performance outerwear, first of all, has to look good (Guglielmo and Olson, 2014:42) as awkwardness in style may not attract end-users’ attention since German female Baby Boomers are savvy consumers who prefer using advanced technology without losing their sense for fashionability (e.g. Appendix G). Consequently, the non-obtrusive integration of wearable technology becomes inevitable implying that the classic features of the garment have to remain. 3. Perceived capability is determined by how the wearable technology jacket fits into consumers’ lifestyles and their cultural background. Perceived capability relates to the comparability of an innovation, which is defined as ‘the degree to which the innovation is perceived as consistent with the existing values, needs and past experiences of [the] potential adopter’ (Rogers, 2003:240). The majority of German female Baby Boomers (77.78%) stated that they are all interested in trying wearable technology products especially when integrated into clothing if they have a proper purpose. The product should be compatible with the wearer’s status and self-image as lifestyle influences the way consumers want to be perceived (Shishoo, 2010). This is seen in German female Baby Boomers’ demand in performance outerwear to be flexible and adaptive to several activities and seasonal circumstances (e.g. Figure 4.2, Figure 4.3). The technology should fit all aspects of their lifestyle and, hence, should feel like a natural ‘add-on’ (Malmivaara in McCann and Bryson, 2009). This confirms that the seamless integration plays an important role in the adoption process and highlights the necessity for a multifunctional product adaptive to diverse leisure habits. 4. Perceived ease of use positively influences consumers’ attitude and purchase intention of smart clothing (Chae, 2010; Ko et al., 2009). Davis defines perceived ease of use as the ‘degree to which a person believes that using a particular system would be free of effort’ (1989:320). Perceived ease of use coincides with complexity in Rogers’ (1995) Innovation and Diffusion Theory but in an opposite direction. Rogers defines complexity as the ‘degree to which an innovation is perceived as difficult to understand and use’ (2003:16). German female Baby Boomers consider themselves as early and

late majority adopters of new products (e.g. Figure 4.3) due to their concerns regarding new technologies. As stated in the focus group (e.g. Appendix G) they prefer to adapt technologies they have already familiarised with. The survey confirmed this statement through the majority of participants stating they would like to adapt a heating system and LED lighting as they are most convincing and have a clear purpose. 5. Perceived usefulness defines to which extent the end-users consider a particular product to enhance their job performance. The aspect of a clear purpose is also related to the perceived usefulness. According to Davis (1989), consumer perception of perceived usefulness directly influences attitudes towards technology adoption and, therefore, is the most powerful predictor for intention of use. He also argues that it can be seen as the relative advantage the end-user can gain from using a new technology. In regards to this study, it relates to the clear benefits potential consumers’ demand to receive from using the product. German female Baby Boomers as sophisticated purchasers request a product that helps them to enhance their outdoor activity experience. Multifunctionality is essential due to their high engagement in several activities helping them to improve their performances and offering protection against environmental hazards. 4.3 Finding Evaluation The comparison of primary research results against the theoretical frameworks proposed in Chapter 3 enabled the validation of the findings. The FEA Consumer Needs Model (Lamb and Kallal, 1992) and the TAM Technology Acceptance Model (Davis, 1989) have been pragmatic tools in analysing the definite factors that impact on the adoption of wearable technology integrated into performance wear. However, both models overlook that potential consumers are going through a decision process before adopting new technologies as they have not been specifically designed for wearable technology adoption in performance wear. A sequence of decisive factors determines the innovation adoption. Thus it suggested the development of a new framework that considers the adoption process as a course of action including both apparel and technological requirements. The critical factor to start the potential consumer’s opinion forming is the perceived aesthetic attributes of the product (e.g. Chapter 4 - 4.2 Research Hypothesis Testing) with the distinct benefits determining the final purchase decision and innovation adoption (e.g. Figure 4.4).

Figure 4.4: Adoption process of performance wear with integrated wearable technology as suggested by the researcher of this study

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As in the specific case of this study, German female Baby Boomers confirmed that the perceived aesthetic attributes of apparel – even happening mainly unconsciously – are critical. A garment that is not appealing to them will not even be tried on and all functional features are discounted. As suggested by Seymour (2008, 2010), clothing that has truly wearable attributes has to be aesthetically pleasing in design, as function alone will not lead to consumer acceptance. As outlined in the framework above, the distinct benefits of the product influenced by several aspects are concluding potential consumers’ choice to adopt an innovation. Regarding German female Baby Boomers’ needs and wants it has to be stated that they are mainly influenced by their leisure habits including being members in sport clubs and engaging in several outdoor activities. Therefore, in order to ‘fit for purpose’ (Bryson in McCann and Bryson, 2009:105) the wearable technology integrated into performance wear has to seamlessly serve their lifestyle needs which is achieved through a flexible, adaptive outerwear system usable for multiple activities and environmental circumstances. Consequently, as suggested in secondary literature (e.g. Chapter 2), in order to enhance end-users’ outdoor activity performance, the direction is leading towards multifunctionality due to the crossover between sport and leisure becoming more blurred (McCann and Bryson, 2009; Seymour, 2008, 2010; Shishoo, 2010; Tao, 2005). The design solution to German female Baby Boomers’ demands is a smart clothing item in form a performance outerwear jacket with embedded wearable technology – called the multiX jacket. Further information on the design development of the multiX jacket will be discussed and clarified in Chapter 5.

Chapter Five Design Process and Product Positioning

5. DESIGN PROCESS AND PRODUCT POSITIONING 5.1 Influence of Primary Research Results on the Design Process of the multiX Jacket The new framework suggested in Chapter 4 (e.g. Figure 4.4) helps to understand the design process necessary for wearable technology that is integrated into performance outerwear for German female Baby Boomers. In order to develop the multiX jacket, first of all, it has been necessary to look at the key primary research findings of the focus group. The following chart (Table 5.1) shows the key primary research findings required to consider in the design development. Table 5.1 Key primary research findings Aesthetics

-‐

Demand for muted colours

-‐

Non-obtrusive technology (should not be too visible)

Comfort

-‐

Fit (contoured fit, not too loose but also not too tight)

-‐

Fabric composition (breathability, waterproofness, softness of fabric)

Multifunctionality

-‐

Thermoregulation

-‐

Technology – high tech that is integrated seamlessly

Technology

-‐

Jacket adjustments

-‐

Visibility

-‐

Heat loss

-‐ Technology wanted but non-obtrusive or something they can relate to -‐ Demand for thermoregulation: heating system -‐ Demand for visibility: LED tubing as the most non-obtrusive way

In addition to that, key issues regarding performance outerwear mentioned during the focus group are outlined below (e.g. Table 5.2). Table 5.2 Key issues with performance wear Fit

Too tight, wearing different layers mainly feels uncomfortable as layers do not interact properly with each other

Collar

Tend to be too short and not well designed

Length of jacket

Tend to be too short for most outdoor activities

The design solution for the multiX jacket consisted of two variables – soft components (garment parts) and hard components (electronic parts) – which needed both to been considered equally. 5.1.1 Garment Components The layering system as advised by secondary literature in Chapter 2 (Tao, 2005; McCann and Bryson, 2009; Shishoo, 2005, 2010) has been adapted to a two-layer system consisting of an outer layer (protective shell) and a mid layer (insulation layer) due to end-user requirements for multifunctionality and flexibility (e.g. Chapter 4). As suggested by Shishoo (2010), an adaption of the layering system from three layers to two can be useful depending on consumer needs. Due to German female Baby Boomers’ great interest and engagement in various outdoor activities, the base layer is not included in the multiX jacket as it needs to have different properties depending on the outdoor activity and the seasonal circumstances. Hence, it can be added by the individual user depending on personal requirements. The outer layer (e.g. Figure 5.1) is the protective shell (McCann in Shishoo, 2010) for the overall system made out of highly functional coated and laminated Cordura shell which is breathable yet with the desired barrier characteristics against external elements such as rain and snow. The mid layer (e.g. Figure 5.2) also described as the insulation layer serves mainly insulation functions (Nielsen, 1991). It is made out of lightweight Primaloft Gold – an

artificial down developed for Antarctic temperatures – which can be folded into a small package and be stowed away if superfluous in warmer environment. Thus, it allows the end-user to be flexible and react to changing weather conditions (e.g. Chapter 4 – 4.3 Finding Evaluation). The whole of all layers needs to be considered in producing performance outerwear. Both layers of the wearable technology garment have to be compatible as only with all factors working together, perfect performance can be achieved (Ishtiaque, 2001). The insulation layer is closely fitted to the body with the outer layer sitting more loosely on top for thermoregulation reasons. This system is ideal for cold conditions as it ‘blocks air movement but allows water vapour to escape through the clothing if sweat occurs’ (Wardiningsih and Troynikov, 2010:23). Both layers are equipped with a RECCO Advanced Rescue Technology System, which is highly necessary for all mountaineering activities enabling rescue professionals to quickly search for and pinpoint avalanche victims’ location. All other wearable technology components are built into the outer layer of the multiX jacket, as it is the layer that is suggested to be worn all the time. The insulation layer of the multiX jacket serves thermoregulation purposes and should be added to the system in cold hazard colder environments. Primary research findings have shown that end-users demand multifunctionality as they are engaging in several outdoor activities on a regular basis (e.g. Chapter 4). Consequently, this had to be considered in the design process (e.g. Table 5.3).

Table 5.3 Design considerations for the multiX jacket Fit and Length

The silhouette of the jacket is contoured but not too tight with its length being appropriate for all sorts of outdoor activities from skiing to cycling

Hood

Necessity for a hood as it is a very useful protection from unexpected rain or snow (Ruckman in Shishoo, 2010)

Storage Pockets

Two storage pockets are placed on the sides on the back, as end-users require storage space for additional equipment (e.g. skiing goggles, liquid pads…)

Lining

For thermoregulation improvement the outer shell is lined with mesh to offer better ventilation (Bramel in Shishoo, 2010)

5.1.2 Electronic Components German female Baby Boomers’ addressable issues during outdoor activities are mainly visibility and body temperature regulation. In order to respond to their demand for multifunctionality both a heating and a LED lighting system are built into the outer layer. The heating system is built into the outer layer’s lining (e.g. Figure 5.1) with 3 pads (two patches at the front, one at the back) and is intended to significantly enhance the wearer’s performance by maintaining ‘body temperature and moisture output close to their normal levels’ (Stegmaier et al. in Shishoo, 2010:89). Thermoregulation can be operated through a three-level system that enables heat adjustments through switching between warmer, cooler or steady temperature, hence improving the wearer’s comfort in cold environments. An LED lighting system answers the demand for visibility in dark or foggy conditions. LED tubing was chosen as the best solution as German female Baby Boomers wanted the technology to be as non-obtrusive as possible (e.g. Figure 4.2). Hence, the LED tubing was used as ‘piping’ for the jacket running over the body’s silhouette and allowing visibility from all angles even if the wearer might carry a backpack (e.g. Figure

5.1). The multiX jacket is intended to be worn throughout the year, thus all electronic components are embedded into the outer layer as it is adaptive to all outdoor activities and seasonal circumstances. In a colder environment the insulation layer can be added to ensure better thermoregulation. The multifunctionality of the multiX jacket answers German female Baby Boomers’ requirements during outdoor sports and offers them flexibility, addressing ‘the functional demands of the modern global 24-hour society, mixing work, relation and everyday activities’ (McCann et al. in McCann and Bryson, 2009:235). The adaptiveness of the jacket makes it a lifestyle product which can be integrated into their leisure habits in a seamless manner improving their performance, offering protection and preventing injuries. As Bryson proposes, wearable technology’s ‘direction is not just functionality but multifunctionality’ (in McCann and Bryson, 2009:105).

Figure 5.1 Outer layer of the multiX jacket

Figure 5.2 Insulation layer of the multiX jacket

5.2 Development Obstacles and Prototype Improvement The integration of wearable technology into performance outerwear has to be conducted in a seamless manner as electronic components have an impact on the perceived comfort and the perceived aesthetic attributes (Tao, 2005). Batteries are required to be small and lightweight. However, due to limited accessibility of custommade electronics, the researcher had to work with a bulky battery to reach the necessary voltage to operate the heating system. Also the LED piping was not available in custom-made length and, therefore, two piping had to be used with separate charging units. For the multiX jacket prototype all batteries are thereupon stored in the back storage pockets (e.g. Figure 5.1) In addition, as the item is worn on a regular basis it requires an easy cleaning process (Timmins in McCann and Bryson, 2009:330). All electronic components of the multiX jacket are machine washable when batteries are removed. Consequently, the jacket is easy to handle and does not demand any special treatments. Nevertheless, it has to be acknowledged that the multiX prototype has not been produced to high-tech performance standards due to the researcher’s limitations in regard of accessibility of performance wear components and lack of knowledge in electronic development. ‘Power supply is a critical consideration to enable wearable technology to operate autonomously’ (McCann in McCann and Bryson, 2009:85) and consequently, for further prototype development this has to be one of the main improvement aspects.

5.3 Commercial Realities of Wearable Technology The integration of wearable technology into garments raises technical issues and confirms that there is a need for a multi-disciplinary design approach to merge the differ industry sectors to develop a ‘shared language’ (McCann in McCann and Bryson, 2009:46) as suggested in the secondary literature (Tao, 2005; Seymour, 2008; McCann and Bryson, 2009; Shishoo, 2005, 2010). Designers have to be aware of commercial realities in order to achieve mass-market penetration and overall success of wearable technology (Duke-Wolley, 2014). As a consequence, this study has focused on targeting German female Baby Boomers, which is a growing market with the demographics changing to an aging population. Baby Boomers position themselves in the early and late majority section of the Diffusion of Innovation Model (Rogers, 2003) (e.g. Figure 5.3) and, therefore, the product placement for the multiX jacket is aligned to the widest market range guaranteeing durable market growth (Bramel, 2005).

Figure 5.3: Diffusion of Innovation Adoption Model adapted to German female Baby Boomers

Nevertheless, it has to be considered that German female Baby Boomers are savvy consumers who must be convinced by the ‘fit for purpose’ (Bryson in McCann and Bryson, 2009:105) of the product. As revealed by primary research findings, functionality alone is not enough ‘to sell a product in a world in which image, style and fashion predominate in marketing strategies’ (Timmins in McCann and Bryson, 2009:300). Aesthetics and usability of technology are important decisive adoption factors due to apparel’s characteristic of representing personal choice and selfexpression which is not given by a purely function driven garment (Kessler, 2014). End-users’ growing willingness to understand technology innovations (e.g. Chapter 4 – 4.1 Findings: Primary Research) in addition to their devotion of more time and money into leisure and sport activities (Buirski in Shishoo, 2010), asks for marketing strategies including visual communications to explain the product features by providing the

potential consumer with a certain amount of information so they can ‘identify how smart clothing and wearable technology can be of benefit for them.’ (Stahl in McCann and Bryson, 2009: 421). As a result, all wearable technology products require a Unique Selling Proposition, also called USP (Levitt, 1986), which consists of the products’ distinct benefits. In the multiX prototype this is given through the jacket’s adaptive characteristics offering a lifestyle product usable for all kinds of leisure habits and everyday activities notwithstanding seasonal circumstances and environmental influences. As a lifestyle product, the multiX jacket is seamlessly integrated into German female Baby Boomers’ outdoor activities offering clear distinct benefits, answering the end user’s requirement for multifunctionality through a flexible garment system and enhancing their lives through comfort and protection. Further information on the multiX can be found in the Appendices (e.g. Appendix A and Appendix B). ‘Wearable technology is supposed to make our lives easier, so there has to be a balance between the form and functionality of any smart device.’ (Applied Art Magazine, 2014:32)

Chapter Six Conclusion and Recommendations

6. CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS 6.1 Conclusion This research study has proven that smart clothing in form of wearable technology integrated into performance wear, specifically into outerwear, creates distinct benefits when considering the end-users’ requirements. As in case of this paper, German female Baby Boomers are keen on adopting wearable technology when the product ‘fit[s] for purpose’ (Bryson in McCann and Bryson, 2009:252). Consequently, it confirms the importance of an end-user led design approach with a cross-disciplinary development team merging the technology and apparel industry sectors to achieve a successful mass market product (McCann and Bryson, 2009; Shishoo, 2005, 2010; Seymour, 2008, 2010; Tao, 2005; Smith, 2007; Dunne, 2004). Commercial realities that impact on the product’s success such as market positioning, price point and product promotion have to be considered by the design team before starting the product development in order to create a purposeful outcome (McCann in McCann and Bryson, 2009). In this specific study, distinct benefits for German female Baby Boomers are created through multifunctionality. The multiX jacket made out of high tech fabrics is complemented through integrated electronic components (e.g. Figure 5.1, 5.2). As a result, the performance outerwear has become more adaptable through the non-obtrusive integration of wearable technology, enhancing German female Baby Boomers’ outdoor activity experience through being seamlessly integrated into their active lifestyle (Tao, 2005; Wright and Keith, 2014; Seymour, 2008). In addition to that, the researcher suggests a new framework (e.g. Figure 4.4) which can be used to evaluate and understand the adoption process of performance wear with embedded wearable technology offering useful insight for product development. 6.2 Research Implications In order to answer German female Baby Boomers’ demand for multifunctionality, the multiX jacket which is adaptable to different outdoor activities thus offering flexibility to the wearer has been created. The layering system, as the most successful concept to integrate wearable technology into apparel (Tao, 2005; Shishoo, 2005, 2010), has been adjusted to a two-layer system (e.g. Figure 5.1, Figure 5.2) due to German female Baby Boomers’ high engagement in various outdoor activities. The outer layer serves as the main jacket which can be worn throughout the season with all electronic components embedded into this layer. The insulation layer becomes handy in colder environments where extra thermoregulation is necessary. The creative outcome is a performance outerwear concept with non-obtrusive integrated technology in form of a heating system and LED lighting offering multiple functions in form of hazard

protection, performance improvement, injury prevention and increased visibility (e.g. Figure 6.1) In terms of further development, the electronic components of the multiX jacket need to become smaller and lighter as they so far constraint wear comfort (Timmins in McCann and Bryson, 2009). Additionally, the concept of the multiX jacket can be further developed into a range of jackets. A product extension through offering various outerwear styles using the same wearable technology as interchangeable electronic components can provide future market opportunities.

Figure 6.1 The multiX jacket prototype

More visual material can be found in the Appendices (e.g. Appendix A and Appendix B).

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6.3 Limitations and Recommendations for Future Research Wearable technology, as a relatively new subject area, so far, has not provided any relevant academic frameworks for the end-user’s adoption process of wearable technology integrated into apparel. The theoretical models used in this research paper have therefore not been specifically created for this use case and, thus, are limited to a certain extent, as they are not developed within the context of apparel and electronics combined in one product. Consequently, the researcher suggests a new framework (e.g. Figure 4.4) that allows the evaluation of the adoption process of wearable technology embedded in performance wear. Notwithstanding, it has to be mentioned that this model is also limited to a very specific case of use and a very specific enduser. Hence, the researcher suggests that it can be used as a guideline for future investigation and must be adapted accordingly. Further examination should involve other age demographics. The undertaken survey in this study revealed Millenials’ high interest in wearable technology incorporated into performance wear offering additional market opportunities for the multiX concept which have to be further investigated (e.g. Appendix M and Appendix N). Moreover, it has to be indicated that this study has excluded all types of hardware body-mounted technology (e.g. smart watch/glasses and fitness trackers) as well as textile-integrated sensors. Subsequently, future research interrogation must consider these specific areas as industry experts at the Wearable Technology Show 2015 (e.g. Appendix C) suggest those to be the future for the wearable technology market (Emmanuel, 2015; Emrich, 2015; Thomson, 2015). Especially the health industry is regarded as the main growing sector due to a rapidly growing older community (Harkin and Huber, 2004) and wearable technology’s ability as a virtual coach to feed back information to the user allowing a deeper understanding of the their physical requirements (De Preamount, 2015; Emrich, 2015). Due to wearable technology’s fast moving pace, all suggestions can only be validated at the time of publication. Accordingly, it is recommended to constantly keep up to date on new developments.

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Appendices Appendix A: multiX Jacket – Images

Appendix B: multiX Jacket Usage Instruction – Two-Layer System and Integrated Technology

Appendix C: Observation - Wearable Technology Show UK 2015 Date: Wednesday, 11th of March 2015

Time: 8.00AM – 16:00PM

Location: EXCEL LONDON

Event: WTS 2015 – Wearable Technology Show 2015

Equipment

§

Camera

Needed:

§

Pen

§

Notebook

Line

Descriptive Notes

Reflective Notes

No: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41

The Future of the Wearable Technology Market (Anastasia Emmanuel, Director UK Technology & Design, Indiegogo) -‐ Market is said to be worth 41 billion dollars by 2020 -‐ So far the wrist dominates -‐ Health is the main market -‐ Feedback from customers is essential for the design development process and the product market fit (market testing is key) -‐ Clear benefits for the consumer are necessary for market success -‐ Product must be easy to wear (battery, electronic components)

-> Understanding the consumer is essential to create a product that will have commercial success

Julien De Preamount (CMO, Withings) -‐ Suggests: ‘fashion rather than ‘wearables’’ -‐ Developed his own principle of design -> emotion -> adapt -> impact -‐ Health sector is about understanding, acting and treating Connected Living Talk Grey Jonson (Director, Misfit) -‐ Concept of the ‘connected self’ -‐ Health as the clearest use case -‐ Important to consider product lifecycle: how can a product stay with someone for the longest possible time Simon Weatherall (Founder, Glowfaster) -‐ Enabling ourselves through technology: Concept of the ‘better self’ Michael Platt (Architect, Microsoft) - People first: it is always about people - ‘Value at purchase’ as an important factor to consider

-> Wearable technology has the biggest purpose in the health sector

-> The product’s marketing has a high influence on the product’s success

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Tom Emrich (CEO, We are wearable) -‐ Empowering personal communication: having a new conversation with our own self and life overall -> wearable technology as the virtual coach -‐ Creation of a connected world -‐ 3 step concept: Quantified Self, Diagnosed Self and Healing Self -> current market is in the Quantified Self (started with fitness trackers)

Does one fit it all? (Ruth Thomson, Head of Consumer Product Development, Cambridge Consultants) -‐ Product needs to be useful -> convenience is key -‐ There has to be a clear system behind the device -‐ No custom solution: one type does not fit all -‐ Ask yourself: Whom are you designing for? -‐ Focusing on: What’s your minimum viable product to produce a successful product?

-> Wearable technology as a virtual coach

-> Diagnosed Self helps to understand what happens with the wearer; Healing Self offers therapy and solutions (predicted to happen five years from now)

-> The development process has to be about the end-user

Appendix D: Observation - Visijax and Kolon Sports Jacket Date: Wednesday, 11th of March

Time: 8.00AM – 16:00PM

2015 Cases: Visijax Kolon Sport Jacket Purpose:

Line

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Understand the construction of the wearable technology apparel

§

Evaluate the design approach that has been used

Descriptive Notes

Reflective Notes

No: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Visijax – Commuter Jacket

Designed for cyclists

-‐ -‐ -‐ -‐ -‐

-> Focusing on visibility and safety on public roads to enhance the cyclists’ safety

Jacket properties: 23 integrated high intensity LEDs, both on front (white) and back (red) motion-activated self-cancelling turn indicators Dupont Teflon-coated rainproof and breathable fabric LEDs powered by a USB rechargeable Lithium-ion battery

Design Process: -‐ User-specific design process as jacket is designed for a specific end-user -‐ Fit of jacket and colour have been taken into consideration -‐ Weather conditions are taken into consideration

->Considered the cyclists’ motion and positions while cycling and placed LEDs in the best suitable manner -> Small battery to avoid discomfort through heavy weight -> Clear benefits because the product is designed for a purpose with specific abilities necessary for the end-user -> Loose fit ensuring cyclist is not restricted -> Rainproof fabric characteristics

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96

Kolon Sport – Life Tech Jacket

Designed for extreme winter conditions -‐ -‐ -‐

-‐ -‐ -‐ -‐

Three-layer concept: Base layer: Stretch fabric layer with electronic device and battery stowage with proximity to core body heat Insulation layer: Thermal inner layer with a Heatex system Outer layer: Waterproof and windproof, breathable Gore PRO outer shell Key Technical Design Features: Wearable wind turbine generator to power smart phones and other devices Oversized zip pulls for use with gloves Easy access shoulder and back strap for manhandling a companion in distress Wearable first aid and survival kit

End-user requirements: -‐ Product designed to save life in an emergency situation -‐ Core issues in extreme conditions had to be understood

-‐ Wearable technology as a way to create genuinely innovative and lifesaving features

-‐ Prototyping to achieve best result

-> All three layers are necessary in extreme conditions to achieve better thermoregulation

-> End-users has been determined from the beginning of the product development -> end product fits their requirements

-> Genuine need for wearable technology as relevant in endusers’ use case: effective use of wearable technology -> Gained in-depth understanding about how to save a life in an emergency situation during extreme outdoor activities: speaking to experts about extreme survival was vital -> The system uses latest technology to meet the most essential human needs such as shelter and warmth in ways that conventional clothing could not -> Garment and hardware have to work as one: in form of the seamless integration process

Appendix E: Key Findings Focus Group – Infographic

Appendix F: Key Focus Group Findings – Notes Date: Wednesday, 14th of March 2015

Time: 18.00PM

Location: Chamerau, Germany

Participants: 10 German female Baby Boomers

Line

Descriptive Notes

Reflective Notes

No: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

Lifestyle -‐ Very active lifestyle engaging in a lot of outdoor activities -‐ Main activities: skiing, hiking, running, cycling -‐ Well being and being in touch with nature is key -> they want to escape the urban life -‐ Want to stay fit and healthy -‐ Anticipate in sport because it is a general leisure habit and because it is a way to reduce stress and refill the battery Key Problems during Outdoor Sports -‐ Cooling down in hazard cold environments -‐ Changes in body temperature: hot and cold flushes

-> Due to geographic location and cultural background -> General view of life -> Can be detected through the high memberships in sport clubs

-> Drop of temperature leading to discomfort -> Staying at the right temperature level tends to be a problem for this age group: need for better thermoregulation

-‐ Quick weather changes in mountain areas -‐ Winter like temperatures for half of the year

-> Due to geographic location of Germany

-‐ Fog as a key problem in winter and mountain environments -‐ Darkness, especially in winter

-> Visibility is restricted, prefer muted colours but have to wear bright colours to stay visible

Performance Wear -‐ Aesthetics have the highest importance before a garment gets tried on -‐ Comfort and fit are decisive when trying on a garment -‐ Key decisive purchase factor is multifunctionality: garments that are adaptive to different activities and occasions and that make them improve their performance -‐ They state they want a balance between functionality and fashionability

-> Factor that decides if a garment gets looked at closer and gets tried on in the first place -> Decisive in how they feel in a garment: wear comfort decides over the wearer’s performance ->Leading a 24/7 lifestyle: they need adaptable clothes that allow them to be flexible -> However, it has to be considered that the

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fashionability aspect will be taken into consideration first Trends -‐ Have developed their own style, know what suits them and therefore are not running after trends in general -‐ They want to look good and trendy through clothing that enhances their silhouette and shows their good sides and want to remain youthful -‐ Prefer muted colours because they enhance their silhouette and are not too obtrusive

Quality of Performance Wear -‐ Not always as satisfying because the garments often do not keep what was promised in terms of breathability, waterproofness etc. -‐ Thermoregulation: air needs to be able to be trapped in between the layers to achieve best thermoregulation

-‐ -‐

-> Those colours can also last for longer: German female Baby Boomers want products with high quality that they can wear for longer.

-> Fit is essential as well as how the layers interact with each other -> How the fabric feels and how the garment sits on the body

-‐ Feel-good factor

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-> Fashionable in an appropriate way related to personal style

Problems with Fit Collars tend to be too tight or do not go up high enough Sleeves tend to be too short Length of jacket needs to be appropriate for activities it is used for

-‐ -‐ -‐

Demands in Performance Outerwear Waterproofness Breathability Big pockets positioned in the right manner

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Hood to zip off

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Comfort (fabric feel, fit of garment, aesthetics) Muted colours

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High quality

-> Wider more comfortable fit necessary -> Needs to be longer for outdoor activities

-> Outdoor sports require a lot of equipment and therefore storage has to be considered -> Confirms the need for an adaptive system -> Timeless and enhancing silhouette -> Garment that lasts for longer

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Wearable Technology -‐ A minority has used fitness tracker

-‐ Even though the majority has not used wearable technology before and considering that they are very slow adopters of new innovations they are very interested in trying and using wearable technology products -‐ They feel a need for technology adoption as everyone is using it -‐ -‐

-‐ -‐ -‐

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Technology Inhibitions Sensors and applications attached to the body are too intrusive (associated with health problems) Demand non-obtrusive technology and due to their slow adopter status want technology in a slow manner: they do not like LED spotlights like on the Visijax jacket

Technology suggestions Heating system useful for most outdoor activities Did not like the LED flashing spotlights Visibility is highly important outdoors

They like the LED tubing because it looks like normal piping on a jacket

Result: Distinct Benefits through Multifunctionality -‐ Heating system and LED lighting all in one

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Technology has to be integrated in a nonobtrusive manner

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Need to fit lifestyle

-> Savvy consumers who need to be convinced of the purpose of a product -> There is a potential market for wearable technology products aimed at German female Baby Boomers -> Hence, they are interested in wearable technology

-> However, clear benefits are necessary for product adoption -> Demand for wearable tech in a slow and sensible manner: they want technology they can already identify with, something that is understandable and easy to use -> Almost half of the year cold weather conditions -> Too obtrusive and looks too technical: German female Baby Boomers want technology that is hardly visible -> Gives the performance outerwear a tailored edge

-> Can be used for many different activities in an countryside as well as urban environment offering multifunctionality and adaptiveness ->They do not want to look technical, they want a normal garment that is enhanced with technology -> Integration in a seamless manner as they all engage in several outdoor sports where the wearable tech system is highly useful

Appendix G: Focus Group Transcript Date: Saturday, 14th of March 2015

Time: 18.00PM

Location: Chamerau, Germany

Number of Participants: 10 females

Equipment

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Recording Device

Needed:

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Consent Forms

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Copy of Questions

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Pen

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Prototype Garment Toiles

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Fabric Samples

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Electronic examples including prototype heating system, LED samples (LED spotlights, LED tubing, LED fabric), solar panel units, electronic switches etc.

Instructions for

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Confirm with participants that the Consent Form has been fully understood and any issues are resolved

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Ensure that participants are aware of the terms and conditions they are agreeing to when signing the Consent Form

Interviewer:

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Interviewer: Hello, thank you very much for taking part in this focus group today. First of all, I’d like to introduce you to my study and the aims and objectives of it. I am examining wearable technology and its correlation to performance outerwear. The term wearable technology is used to describe many different forms of body-mounted technology. My research, however, constraints itself to wearables that can be integrated into clothing. I want to find out how these devices can be integrated into performance outerwear, as the sports sector so far has been most successful in the adoption of wearable technology. Before we start, I would like to introduce you to the research ethics of this study. In this form you will be stating that you are taking part in this focus group freely. I would like to ask for your agreement, for me to tape this focus group in order to be able to write a transcript. You will all stay anonymous and will only be stated as participants 1-10. I would also like to let you know that you are allowed to withdraw from this study at any time without given reason. Do you have any questions? If not, I would like to ask you all to sign the consent form for me, please. To start with, I would like to hand out some paper where you please put down your age as well as your outerwear clothing size. Thank you very much. Now, I’d like to start by asking the first question. Interviewer: When buying outerwear what criteria are most important for you regarding the item? Participant 2: I consider comfort and fit as the most important properties as it decides how well I feel when wearing the garment. Additionally, I place high importance on colour. I prefer wearing garments made out of muted colours. Participant 4: I fully agree with that too. If a garment does not fit nicely I would not buy it. But also the comfort factor is really important for me, too. It used to be subordinate, but since I am a bit older I place a higher importance on it.

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Participant 3: Yes, I totally agree. In earlier days, I preferred more fashionable items and comfort was not so important but now I place a high importance on comfort but also functionality as well. Participant 6: For me, I also have to say, functionality is key. I am doing a lot of sports and all outerwear I buy has to fit for the several purposes I use it. Nevertheless, I like to look good in what I am wearing, though. Participant 4: Yes, you are right. I prefer having a garment that is multifunctional which I can wear for different activities. Participant 7: I also think it has to look appropriate. I sometimes see garments that look appealing but then when I put them on I feel uncomfortable in them, not because they do not fit but just because they do not feel right. When you see it on a hanger it looks amazing and you try it on and it just does not work. I would place high importance on the feel good factor. Participant 1: Yes, I haven’t thought about that. But I also consider the feel good factor as an important aspect. Especially in work life you tend to wear quite uncomfortable formal clothing so in my free time I prefer wearing something that makes me feel good and makes me perform better. Interviewer: What factor does trend play? Participant 5: I am interested in trends and I like to buy into trends if they suit me. The problem with trends can be though that sometimes they are to extreme and don’t work with my own style. I think over the years I developed a good understanding of what works for me personally. I like to wear trends if they fit in with my personal style. Participant 8: Yes, I fully agree with [Participant 5]. I still want to look good and trendy but all within a safe area. In our age group it can happen quite quickly that you look inappropriate if you wear something that was meant to be worn by girls and younger women. Participant 3: But that does not mean we want to look old! I think we all agree that we want to look a bit more timeless rather than just running after all trends. Participant 9: Yes, that’s absolutely right, [Participant 3]. Interviewer: As you were saying you tend to go for timeless style - does that mean that you tend to buy similar products? Participant 2: Yes, I do. I know that certain things work very well on me so I keep on wearing them as I feel and look good in them. Participant 7: I would say though, sometimes I like to get something new that makes my whole look seem a bit fresher and new. Participant 4: That’s a good point. I like to buy age appropriate but that does not mean I want to look old in what I am wearing. I think classics and nice silhouettes are what I am looking for. Obviously, over the years my body shapes has changed but that gives me even more reason to emphasis the good parts. Interviewer: So you want to keep a youthful touch? Participant 10: Yes, youthful but if a trend just does not work with my age I rather stay away from it. I want to look fashionable but as [Participant 5] said in an appropriate frame and within my own style. Participant 8: I would say though that nowadays we dress in a different way than looking back at our parents. Age appropriate has shifted. A 50 year-old woman does definitively dress differently to what a 50 year-old woman would have worn 30 years ago. Therefore, I generally think there are age overlapping clothing styles that both younger and more mature women can wear at the same time. Participant 6: I think the differences then lie in small detailing and the way it is worn when it comes to the same clothing that both my daughter and me are wearing. Whereas she might just style it in a more youthful way, I would keep it more reserved. Interviewer: After what you all just mentioned – where does the priority lie – in functionality or in aesthetics? Participant 1: I would say that both have similar importance especially when buying performance wear. As we said before, I want to feel and look good at the same time. If

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a garment is functional and fashionable at the same time, it means I can wear it for all sorts of different occasions, which gives me more flexibility and freedom. Participant 9: Especially when it comes to performance and sportswear I want to have a lot of functionality. Also, nowadays, as females who are mainly working full-time while managing a household and we have to be very flexible. Participant 4: Yes, I would say it’s a balance of the two. Participant 2: Functionality seems to be even a bit more important for me. It depends on what I am buying but in the performance wear category I place a higher importance on functionality and comfort. Participant 5: Comfort is key when I am buying performance wear. If I don’t feel comfortable and ‘secure’ in a garment, I would not want to wear it. The fit and the way the garment is cut are decisive in whether I purchase or not. But on the other hand, if it would not be aesthetically appealing I would not go for it in the first place either. Participant 3: That is what I was just thinking. When I go shopping, even if I shop for some functional clothing, I first of all go for what looks most appealing to me. Maybe, if a sales assistant points out the amazing functionality of another item that looks all right I give it a go but apart from that – unconsciously, I will place the higher importance on the aesthetics. Participant 2: Yes, because even though we are a bit older [laughter] we still want to look attractive and sexy. Interviewer: That’s good to know. Thank you. I was wondering if you are wearing sports clothing in your daily routine? Participant 4: Yes, absolutely! Especially on my weekends, which I tend to spend on the countryside, I prefer wearing performance outerwear day and night. I feel it has generally become more acceptable to wear your Nike trainers and some sport clothing in all different kinds of situations. Participant 2: Yes, I wear it as much as possible. Mainly also because these types of garments are very multifunctional, allowing me to use them in all sort of different situations. That’s what I like about them the most, sportswear tends to be very adaptive which then allows me to be more flexible. Participant 1: Also, they look a lot more fashionable nowadays so they have almost that kind of office to gym feel to them anyway. And when you think about brands like Sportalm or Bogner, they are producing very high end beautiful multifunctional jackets. Interviewer: You just mentioned that you spend your free time on weekends on the countryside. In which activities do you engage in? How often do you generally engage in sports then? Participant 10: I think it depends on the season. In winter, I spend most of my time in the mountains going skiing or ski touring. And in summer, I prefer to go hiking and sometimes biking. Also during the week, generally not depending on seasons, I enjoy going jogging in the evening after a long day at work. It makes me relax and calm down. Participant 1: A lot of us are actually always going skiing and hiking together as we are all in the same mountaineering club. It is a very common thing here. We also go away on hiking trips or skiing trips in Austria, Switzerland and France. I engage in similar activities on the weekend as [Participant 10] and during the week I tend to go to the gym just to release stress. Participant 2: Yes, that’s very true. Also, twice a year we go on a trip for hiking and skiing with work. I would say it is part of the lifestyle here. Being in nature and experiencing it, is very relaxing and makes everyone be more connected. Participant 4: I could not agree more. It makes me relax so much and I feel full of energy afterwards. Participant 5: I could not agree more. After a long week working hard, I just need to get out and experience something different to the city. Especially the lakes around Munich are my favourite place to go. You can walk around them but you can also go on a bike

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tour, which offers even more variety. In summer, I also just like to go sailing and enjoying the beautiful scenery. Participant 9: I love running as a general activity. I at least go running 4 times a week usually after I finish work. I’ve been a runner my whole life and it makes me feel great in the exact moment. With my family I also love to go hiking. Now that my children are grown-ups, they started to enjoy outdoor activities and whenever they come home to visit we go on a hiking trip together. Participant 6: That is exactly what I do with my children, too. I guess it’s just the mentality here. Interviewer: You’ve just been saying you use these activities to release stress and to feel good. Participant 7: Yes, it’s wellness for the soul. It makes me relax and forget about all the stress I have everyday. It’s that feel-good aspect that makes me do it. Participant 9: I do it because it’s fun. But unconsciously it is also the fact of staying healthy and fit. Building up muscle strength is also very important especially when getting older. Participant 10: I am doing it for my general well being, it’s healthy and good for my body. I got a book for running which is called ‘Run free’. I am doing it for my mind and soul and to have long-lasting benefits. Participant 5: But [Participant 10], you are not doing it because you think you’re living longer because of it, right? I think it is more about the staying fit and feeling better for longer. Participant 6: I am not sure if I am actually doing it for my health. It’s more a way to have fun. For me it’s a way to release all the anger that builds up. After coming home from work, I need to let some power off and then I feel very relaxed afterwards. Running is the perfect thing for that. Participant 10: No, I don’t think that’s the full truth. You are feeling good when you do it, and in one way or another it also improves your health. Participant 6: Well, yes I guess you are right. Participant 2: For me, it’s mainly a way to reduce stress in my life. Especially outdoor activities on the weekend help to refill my battery and then I am set for the upcoming week. Interviewer: Okay, so you take part in those activities mainly for your own well being and to stay fit and healthy. Relating to that, how satisfied are you generally with the sportswear you are wearing while doing those activities? Are those products what they claim to offer? Participant 2: No, no, no! Some fabrics are said to be breathable and how is it called – dryfit? – but actually when you wear them you turn out to be even more wet afterwards then when wearing a normal t-shirt. Sometimes, in those synthetic materials you also start to smell. It’s not very pleasant. Participant 5: I got this Softshell jacket which is said to be breathable and I paid a lot of money for it but I sweat in it like crazy and the product does not hold what it was said to be. I was quite disappointed to be honest. I am more careful now when buying those expensive types of products. Participant 7: It depends. I have some products at home which are as good as promised. But I can definitively see differences in relation to expensive and high quality and cheap and low quality. Participant 6: I think it definitively depends on quality. The higher the price, the better the quality. Participant 4: I am not sure if I can agree with that. Participant 1: I had the same experience. I got this really expensive base layer which I use for skiing and hiking in winter and it is said to be dryfit, meaning if you get too warm you won’t sweat so you don’t cool down too much in a cold environment. But, actually, I am sweating crazily in it. However, a cheap, no name base layer works

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perfect. So, I would say you can’t really say that because the price is high you get quality and comfort. Participant 4: Yes, I think you are right. I think it’s not the price that determines the overall quality but several factors coming together. I would say it’s the material, the fit, how much you sweat in a garment, how the product looks after wearing it for several times. And also the comfort factor when wearing it. It needs to feel good! Participant 2: Yes, I agree. It needs to be comfortable. But if I sweat in it and then I am cold that’s the most uncomfortable thing ever! Participant 8: In winter, also how warm a garment is, is very important. If it’s too tight, you don’t have proper insulation, you start to sweat and then you get cold. Air needs to be able to be trapped between the layers to keep you warm. Participant 1: Yes, I also had to realize that. If air can’t circulate you tend to get cold quite quickly. Participant 2: I had the same experience. If a garment is too tight, it’s uncomfortable and you get cold super quickly. Air needs to trap in-between. Participant 6: But, that also should not mean, that it’s completely loose. It should be nicely contoured around the silhouette but wide enough to fit in the layering system. Participant 10: And, of course, the air chambers! Those are very important to stay warm in a cold environment! Air is the best insulation! Interviewer: That is what I was thinking for using for my project, too. What do you then generally think about the fit of performance wear? Participant 2: I think one of the most annoying things is that the collars of jackets tend to be too tight, not high enough up and if they are they are so tight that they scratch your neck. Participant 3: Yes, that’ so true. If they are too short you are cold when you go skiing or hiking in winter and if they are too tight and too high up you can’t even close them because you feel you won’t be able to breathe anymore. Participant 6: I also think that most of the time, sportswear that is actually created for winter outdoor activities has sleeves that tend to be too short and they generally move up way too much when moving my arms around. Sometimes it’s just a weird fit, really. Participant 10: I could not agree more with you, [Participant 6]. The length of jackets is sometimes ridiculous. Either they are too long or too short. Who wants to wear a jacket that is super short for skiing or hiking?! Interviewer: Now I would like to ask you about wearable tech – what do you think about it and when do you think would it be useful? Participant 10: I think it’s very interesting. Especially when it comes to heart rate. I used it before when going running. Knowing your heart rate is crucial! Participant 6: I have already used a step counting watch because I wanted to check my own performance. Participant 2: I actually have not used it before but it would be interesting just to get in touch with it to see what is actually available. Participant 4: I would be interested to see what is going on with my body. It’s something we can only detect so far by how we feel. Participant 1: I think a heating system like they use in skiing boots would be very interesting when built into a garment. I am always cold when being outdoors in winter or even in summer during bad weather conditions. Participant 7: I could not agree more. A heating system would be perfect. Especially when sitting in the lift, I always cool down and then I can’t perform properly anymore. Participant 8: That is an amazing idea, especially also for windy weather conditions or rain. Participant 10: And, also the fact that you can prevent injury with it. Muscles when cooling down are more likely to get injured. And it would also extend your endurance as you can perform for longer and better if your body temperature is steady.

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Participant 9: I would love that for running. When I go running in winter, I always cool down at stages where I need to run a bit slower and the heating system would be perfect to prevent that. Interviewer: Do you have inhibitions using technology? Participant 10: I am very keen on using technology. We might be a bit slower in adapting to new technology or innovation but I am sure we are all still interested in using them. Participant 7: Yes, I think especially now that I am retired I got so much time to spend on getting to know electronic devices. I am not an early adopter of those things but when I see they have an actual purpose, like for example a smart phone, I am very keen on using it. Participant 1: I would definitively give it a lot of consideration beforehand. I got my first smartphone long after the first ones where on the market. But not because I was too afraid of using it, it was more the fact that I wanted a confirmation that these devices would actually work properly and have a proper reason to be in our lives. Participant 9: I agree with you [Participant 1]. I always wait a little bit to see how it develops; the first ones, always tend to have some sort of issue. I rather wait and see how it develops before I tap into it. Participant 5: It’s part of our zeitgeist. Especially seeing younger generations adopting to it quite quickly and having no problems with using it. This obviously puts us under pressure to take on these products, too. Everyone uses them so we just have to adapt to it, too. Participant 2: We just need to go with the flow and need to adapt to new things. We just have to have the courage in saying that we need to learn new things all the times. Participant 8: I think, though, I would need to think about it and would need to see a proper purpose out of using the item, otherwise I would not consider taking it on. Participant 1: Yes, that’s true. Obviously, without a clear purpose or benefit there, it holds people back from buying it. But when you think back, first our phones, for example, were only able to call and text and we thought, ah, that’s all we need but look at our phones now! Suddenly, we got all those functions we did not dream about before and we would have never thought we need them either. Participant 2: Yes, I think so, too. It most definitively has a future. Participant 3: It only has to be useful! Participant 4: Well, I am not sure… I think there are still some inhibitions. Especially when it comes to those sensors that you need to wear next to your body constantly. I think we are not there yet. It feels like something you do when you actually have a health problem and you get it prescribed by your doctor to wear one of those measuring boxes. It makes you feel like you actually already do have a problem. I am not sure, I think it takes patience and I think it has to be brought to the market in a sensible way. Participant 6: Yes, I actually think [Participant 4] is right. As we are not the quickest in adoption new technologies, I think we demand a product that introduces us to these possibilities in a very slow and sensible manner. Participant 1: I agree, it has to be something that you are already used to. But then it develops further… it’s like the telephone that turned into a smart phone. Interviewer: So, you just said you guess you would want to be introduced to wearable technology in a slow manner. What kind of technology could you imagine would you like to use and would be useful and beneficial for you when doing your sport activities? Participant 10: My key problems when doing sports is that I tend to cool down very quickly and that already led to some injuries in the past. Especially when running or hiking you have those highs where you sweat a lot and then suddenly a drop of body temperature and you cool down. I think the heating system we were talking about before would be really useful for that.

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Participant 2: I think every woman would be happy to have a heating system in her outdoor jacket. I would want to have it in all my outdoor jackets. I think that would sell! Warmth is the main problem especially with women at our age. We have those hot flushes and then we feel properly cold afterwards all the time. Participant 3: Yes, that would be great. Especially just from a health perspective for inner organs it’s quite important as well. Participant 4: I would love that! Especially in winter I lose motivation to go outside to do sports because I don’t want to be cold. Participant 9: I agree with what [Participant 10] says. When running in winter you have to be very aware of the fact that you can get injuries when cooling your body down quickly through sweating. When you stop exercising quickly and you are still outside you cool down massively. Participant 7: I also tend to get a lot of hot flushes and that makes me go from hot to cold extremely quickly. It happened a few times now, that I got a cold because of that. Participant 1: Especially, at our geographic location we got cold weather conditions for half a year. A heating system solves the problem! Participant 5: In the mountains when it’s cold, rainy or snowing it would be awesome. When you are hiking, the weather can change quite quickly in the mountains and sometimes you are in the middle of a tour and then suddenly it starts to storm but you still got half the way to go. I had it happen to me so many times that I was drained in water and extremely cold because it suddenly started to rain. Participant 6: Yes, I agree. Adapting to changing weather conditions is crucial. Another aspect I am thinking of is, what we said before: when you are actually sitting in the lift when you’re skiing. That’s the time when you arrive at the lift hot and sweaty because you’ve just gone downhill and then when you are sitting in the lift, the wind hits you and your body suddenly cools down extremely. That pre-programmes an injury! Participant 8: Yes, that’s very true. So many times I’ve been stuck in bad weather conditions. Another aspect to mention is fog when skiing or hiking. It is a huge issue when you can’t see anyone but yourself because it’s so foggy. Interviewer: Here we are coming to my first initial idea. I was thinking of building some LEDs into a garment to create more visibility and therefore to also protect the wearer when engaging in activities especially at night time or when it’s dark in winter. What do you think about it? I have a few options to show you here: Here are some round LEDs that are sewn onto the fabric. They are also available as flashing LEDs. Here are also some flat LEDs which easier to integrate onto the garment. Other options are the LED tube, which lights up in a silvery light and has three stages (lightening up, flashing and fast flashing). I’ve attached it to a jacket here. And the final option is a LED fabric which also lights up in a silvery colour and can be used as panels over the garment. Construction wise it has to be attached to the garment in a certain way and cannot be cut into. Participant 2: The LED spotlights look a bit funky to me – a bit like a disco ball. Participant 4: Yes, it looks to electronic and ‘cyber human’ like. It’s a bit too funky and crazy. But I like the LED tubing! Participant 1: I think it’s a very good idea for sport in winter or at night. However, I feel we all want to have a garment that is actually ‘wearable’ and multifunctional and if it looks too crazy and technical even when not turned on, I think it will not be adapted. Participant 5: Yes, it should not be intrusive. As we said before, we want fashionable garments that are classical, stylish but not too crazy. We want to feel age appropriate, but sexy in them. And the LED spotlights are definitively not doing that. Also the fabric looks a bit too crazy. But the tubing is good. Especially when not turned on you would just think it’s normal piping. I really like that. Participant 2: I agree. Can I have a closer look? Interviewer: Yes, of course.

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Participant 3: It actually looks like piping on a blazer! I really like the LED tubing. It’s very unobtrusive. [Participant 2], can you actually turn it on please? Participant 6: That’s very interesting. It does not look like an electronic when not turned on. I think I would love to wear that. That would be great as a hiking jacket or for running. Participant 10: I think it’s very useful. Consider how many people get hit by a car when cycling just in an urban environment! It makes the garment very multifunctional as you can put it on for different occasions. Participant 7: But, also when skiing. Visibility is always key when you are outdoors! Participant 9: I would love to wear that for going running. I often run next to streets and the problem with reflective garments is that the car only sees you as soon as its light hits you. But with a turned on jacket they will recognize you much quicker! Participant 1: I do a lot of heli-skiing and as [Participant 5] said before, the weather can actually change extremely quickly. And sometimes you are skiing through some forests and being more visible would be so helpful for several reasons. The heli would see the skiers quicker and the guide has a better overview of who already has arrived. Participant 10: Yes, visibility is generally a very important aspect. Attaching a lighting system through piping is very clever. It keeps the traditional heritage of a garment but twists it in a modern way. I think that fits very well with what [Participant 1] said earlier about technology in general. We want it to be adapted to what we know already in order to take it on for now. We want subtle technology. Participant 8: I like the idea of it not being properly ‘visible’ but making you visible. Even though it’s highly technical, I feel it does not have to look like it. Participant 4: I am just wondering, how will the heating system and the LEDs be charged? Interviewer: It will be charged over a battery, which you can see here. Unfortunately, they are still pretty big so the storage of the battery has to be carefully considered in the design of the jacket. Participant 4: I am sure with some extra electronic help in the future it will be possible to make it smaller. Interviewer: You mentioned that multi-functionality as a key aspect. What are key properties that you want an outdoor jacket to have? Participant 5: As we said before, we are living in a climate that is sometimes unpredictable. Therefore, waterproofness is key when you go hiking or skiing. But also when you go for an endurance run or a biking tour. Participant 7: But, do not forget the breathability aspect. Humidity has to be able to exit the garment to keep you comfortable in it. When sweat is trapped inside the garment you feel uncomfortable and it can also lead to under cooling of the body. Participant 1: This could be solved obviously through working with breathable fabrics. Additionally, I think what has to be considered is that for skiing or hiking you want to have pockets where you can store a lot – pockets should be pretty big. Participant 2: That is a good point! What I have to add on is that most outdoor jackets have pockets right at the back, which is really uncomfortable. Every time you sit down it pushes against the back. It should be positioned more sideways. Participant 9: And, another important thing is a hood that can be zipped off. Because when it’s sunny weather I might not want to wear it but if it already looks cloudy outside and about to start raining I would place high importance on a hood. Participant 10: As we said before obviously comfort is the key aspect. The fit of the garment, the fabric feel and aesthetic aspect - so you can feel good in it! Interviewer: Regarding the aesthetic aspect, which colours do you usually buy into? Participant 8: When I was younger, I was more experimental but now I am more concerned about how it actually makes me look. I tend to buy a lot of muted colours. These colours are easier to combine and are more timeless. When I am buying clothes, I want something that last for longer. I want high quality and an item that I can combine with many different things.

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Participant 7: Yes, that’s a very good point. Now and again I sometimes like to buy something colourful to mix with all the other things I already have. But, generally, these then tend to be t-shirts or colourful accessories. Participant 6: I fully agree. However, because of visibility issues I tend to wear colourful garment when going running as I am concerned about people not recognizing me. Participant 2: With Giulia’s lighting system this problem will be gone! Participant 1: What I’d like to add on is, I guess we also buy more into muted colours as they shape our body nicely. They enhance the good parts and conceal the ones we want to hide. Participant 4: The LED piping will also add on to that, won’t it? Because if you structure it around the body, it will also shape it in a nice way. And the aspect I really like about the heating system and the LEDs is that you get multifunction in one item, feeling protected, warm and definitively visible! Participant 2: But all with technology not really being obtrusive. Giving us what we want: We want the technology without looking technical. Interviewer: Very true. I think we are at the end of the focus group. Thank you very much for taking part. If you have any questions, please, come and ask me. I would also like to let you know that you are very welcome to read the final dissertation as soon as it will be published. Thank you very much again!

Appendix H: Electronics Shown to Focus Group Participants

Kolon Life Jacket

Smart Life Sensoring Garments

Visijax LED Jacket

Polar Body Monitoring

Samsung Gear

MisFit Shine

Appendix I: Consent Form Administrated to Focus Group Participants (BLANK)

RESEARCH ETHICS: CONSENT FORM Full title of Project: Examining the seamless integration of wearable technology into performance outerwear – German female Baby Boomers’ distinctive benefits through smart clothing Name, position and contact address of Researcher: Giulia Wutz BA (Hons) Fashion: Design and Marketing Flat 206 Hodgeson House, 26 Christian Street, E1 1AY London Please Tick Box 1.

I confirm that I have read and understand the information sheet for the above study and have had the opportunity to ask questions.

I understand that my participation is voluntary and that I am free to withdraw at any time, without giving reason.

I agree to take part in the above study.

I agree to the focus group being audio recorded.

I agree to the use of anonymised quotes in publications.

Name of Participant

Date

Signature

Name of Researcher

Date

Signature

Appendix J: Signed Consent Forms from Focus Group Participants Form 1

Form 2

Form 3

Form 4

Form 5

Form 6

Form 7

Form 8

Form 9

Form 10

Appendix K: Survey Results +45 year-old German Females – Infographic

Appendix M: Key Survey Results +45 year-old German Females Start: Tuesday, 24th of March 2015

End: Tuesday, 7th

Location: Germany

Participants: 69 Germans

Line

Descriptive Notes

Reflective Notes

No: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48

Lifestyle -‐ The majority (82.14%) exercises once a week with 32.14% engaging in sports more than once a week

-‐

When exercising they prefer outdoor activities like skiing and snowboarding (82.15%), hiking (78.57%), cycling (32.14%) and running (28.57%)

Wearable Technology -‐ The majority (62.29%) has never used a wearable technology product previously but have all heard about it before.

-> Due to general leisure habits in Germany with the majority of Baby Boomers being members in several sport clubs -> Due to geographic location (Germany is very bucolic) -> living in close touch with nature and being closely situated to mountains (Alps, Bavarian Forest, Black Forest etc.) and lakes and the sea (Lake Constance, North and East sea) -> Germany has been at the forefront of wearable technology

-‐ Mainly consider themselves as moderately quick adopters of new technologies (53.57%) with 32.14% seeing themselves as late majority adopters and only 14.28% considering themselves as quick adopters.

-> Highly savvy consumers who need to be convinced of the benefits of a product before considering purchase and adoption

-‐

Notwithstanding, of their slow adopter status, they are all very interested in integrating wearable technology into their daily routine (77.78%) and 22.22% would take it into consideration

-> Showing there is a potential market: Baby Boomers as a market that tends to be left out

-‐

The main interest in wearable technology lies in staying warm through a heating system (82.14%) and improving visibility through LEDs (42.6%)

-> Due to their high interest in outdoor sports, where thermal regulation and visibility is key

Performance Wear -‐ The majority of female +45 year-old participants (92.86%) places extremely high importance on comfort -‐ Fashionability is considered as a decisive factor in performance wear (46.43%)

-> Due to high engagement in outdoor activities -> Baby Boomers want to look attractive while engaging in their leisure habits

Appendix L: Survey Results +18 – 35 year-old German Females – Infographic

Appendix N: Key Survey Results +18 - 35 year-old German Females Start: Tuesday, 24th of March 2015

End: Tuesday, 7th

Location: Germany

Participants: 69 Germans

Line

Descriptive Notes

Reflective Notes

No: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48

Lifestyle -‐ The majority exercises more than once a week with a percentage of 71.4% -‐

When exercising they mainly work out at the gym (70%) or participate in team sports (35%) or go for a run (75%), mountaineering activities less popular, however they like to go skiing and snowboarding (55%)

-> Place high importance on fitness and looking good -> Tend to live in a more urban environment due to current life stage

Wearable Technology -‐ The majority of 18-35 year-olds have used wearable technology products before (76.19%) and have all heard of these products previously

-> Germany has been at the forefront of wearable technology

-‐ Almost half (47.62%) see themselves as early adopters of new technologies and 23.81% consider themselves as extremely quickly adopters of new technologies at the innovator stage

-> Always want to be up-todate with the newest technology due to current stage of life in addition to peer group pressure

-‐

Therefore, a high majority of 80.95% is interested in using wearable technology in their daily routine with only 4.76% not being convinced at all

-> The minority might use smartphones as their fitness trackers

-‐

Their interest spreads over all types of wearable technology products: 80.95% are interested in performance measuring tools, in addition to a notable interest in a heating system (52.38%)

-> Due to high engagement in endurance sports (running, gym workout) -> Winter sports and cold environment support the demand for a heating system

Performance Wear - Comfort has high importance within the majority of participants (57.14%) -

Fashionability is considered as a decisive factor in performance wear with 61.9% stating it plays a very important role in the purchasing process

-> Looks play a higher role in this generation than being comfortable -> Mainly engage in sports to improve their physique and therefore also want to look highly attractive while working out

Appendix O: Survey Results including all German Participants Start: Tuesday, 24th of March 2015

End: Tuesday, 7th of April 2015

Location: Germany

Number of Participants: 69 Germans

Description:

Purpose

§

Posted on German outdoor blogs and sport club sites to achieve a relevant and valid sample

§

Related to lifestyle, performance wear and wearable technology

§

Gain an understanding of the general German market situation

§

Understand the German female Baby Boomer market

§

Evaluate other German age demographics’ opinions

§

Quantitative data used to validate qualitative data

Question 1: What is your gender?

Question 2: How old are you?

100

Question 3: How often do you exercise and take part in outdoor activities?

101

Question 4: What do you most often do for exercise?

102

Question 5: Have you ever used any wearable technology products (e.g. measuring tools/sensors, heating systems, LEDs) before?

103 Â

Question 6: How quickly do you adapt new technologies (e.g. smart phone, tracking sensors etc.)?

104 Â

Question 7: Would you be interested in trying to use wearable technologies when exercising or in your daily routine?

105 Â

Question 8: Which benefits would you like to gain through using wearable technology?

106 Â

Question 9: How important is comfort in sportswear to you?

107

Question 10: How important is fashionability in sportswear to you?

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Appendix P: Personal Professional Development

‘The Initial mystery that attends any journey is how did the traveller reach his starting point in the first place?’ (Louise Bogan) When I started my BA Fashion Design and Marketing Course at London College of Fashion, I would have never thought I would finish my degree with a thesis about wearable technology and performance wear. My main interest has always been lying in high-end fashion design and couture but during my studies I developed a great interest in understanding technical garments mainly outerwear due to my passion for outdoor sports. Meanwhile, wearable technology started to become one of the most discussed topics and was said to be the next big thing that would turn fashion and our lives in generally inside out. Consequently, when it came to decide on a topic for the dissertation I wanted to work on something that was new and relevant for the future to provide me with at least enough information to be able to enter the scene when graduated. Wearable technology was perfect for that, as it allowed me to combine my own interests in fashion and science. Furthermore, the creative dissertation was the best choice for this study as it allowed me to unify both my creative, as well as academic skills, with all practical work feeding into the theoretical work and vice versa. With wearable technology being a very complex and controversial subject area and with my previous studies not having covered any related topics, I struggled in the beginning to understand all the related subject matters. Hence, first off, it demanded an in-depth research into all related variables to understand the complexity of wearable technology. In order to keep control over all the different points of view in secondary literature, I created a colour-coded system to organize all opinions and thoughts. Moreover, I basically had to start from ‘zero’ learning about electronic gadgets and how they can be integrated into wearable technology. After understanding which electronics could be built into a garment, I had to realize that the accessibility of these integral parts was very limited. Ready-made electronic components were not accessible, only custom made devices have been offered for high costs. Consequently, with my general knowledge I had gained in physics in my A-levels and with the help of my friend who is an electrician, I had to come up with a solution.

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Looking back and considering from where I started, I feel the outcome of this project has been very successful. However, it has to be mentioned that the design and development process has been restricted by my own abilities in creating electronics and the short time frame the project was undertaken in. Nevertheless, these restrictions also had some positive features as they asked for a lot of creativity in order to achieve a full-working prototype. Furthermore, with the multi jacket having both soft and hard components, it was a practical challenge to create the garment. It demanded thinking outside of the box with always keeping in mind that there is, first of all, no right or wrong answer. Only through exploring, experimenting and evaluating the best solution could be found. Of course, there have been some failed trials but my enthusiasm and my curiosity for the project kept me going and also showed me how strong my own stamina is. I am very proud of the outcome of this project, as this multiX jacket is the most technical garment I have ever made. In regards to the research undertaken in this project, it can be said that it was a very exciting and interesting process that I have been going through. It helped me to improve my own thought processes and opened up my mind further. During my creative research, I had to realize that own prejudices hold one back from experiencing the bigger picture and conclusions are drawn too quickly. Hence, ‘meta-thinking’ (Gray and Malins, 2004) with constantly scrutinizing the own thinking was required to avoid research bias. Due to this overwhelming amount of information, there have been moments where I felt a bit lost, however, taking a step back from my work helped me to get back to being focused. The use of two specific frameworks – FEA Model of Consumer Needs (Lamb and Kallal, 1992) and TAM Technology Acceptance Model (Davis 1989) came in handy when analysing primary research findings as they provided a guideline on what could be a possible outcome. Especially as both the academic and the creative process have been conducted at the same time, it was useful to have some hypotheses to work with in the beginning and to not purely rely on gut feeling. Furthermore, the dissertation helped me to develop my soft skills. Especially problem solving was a very important aspect in this complex project. Wearable technology with its features as both a garment and an electronic device (Dunne, 2004) needs a very different approach in garment construction than normal

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clothing. Some academic models suggested design approach solutions as, for example, McCann’s diagram of the overall garment process (in McCann and Bryson, 2009:72). Nonetheless, these models were not created specifically for performance outerwear design and thus required adoption to be suitable for my design development progress. I came across a few problems when, for example, integrating the heating system in a non-obtrusive manner as the required battery to charge the system is fairly big. Unfortunately, it was not possible to use a smaller battery as it would have affected the heating qualities. However, the back pockets that are intended as storage space for equipment are used as battery holders in the prototype. The LED tubing as piping was a very successful outcome as it integrated the technology in a very non-obtrusive manner. Based on that, it can be said that technical problems are best solved through trial and error as it helps to understand and gain technical knowledge. Another important soft skill I improved is time management. Working on a project for several months demands the organisation of each task, especially when other people’s help is involved (e.g. focus group, survey, electrician). Also keeping oneself motivated for such a long time has to be taken into account. I tried to have some variety in my work process, doing both creative and theoretical aspects at the same time. It helped me to not fall into a monotonous wheel and created more depth in both components. In addition to that, being able to conduct a project such as this shows organisation skills as well as self-initiative. As this unit was lead by one’s own authority it helped me to develop my own organisational skills and improved my independence. Also taking full responsibility for a project was part of the development process. All these skills will be useful for future employment where taking responsibility for the own work is essential. This project was a good starting point to tap into wearable technology and the subject area itself has really caught my interest. Ideally, I would like to take this project further by gaining more knowledge about fabric sensors and also hardware components, such as smart watches and smart wristbands. Besides, I would also like to pursuit a career in the wearable technology sector in either the marketing area or through being part of a development team.

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All in all, I can say that my development over the past four years has been tremendous, thinking of where I actually started my journey. I think I have come a long way and I am very proud of all the skills and knowledge that I have acquired.

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Appendix Q: List and Visual Checklist of Creative Submission 1.

multiX jacket (outer and insulation layer) in one black garment bag plus 6 toiles in one black garment bag

2 ring bound A3 sketchbooks

2 research files about garment and electronic components

2 A5 ring bound information booklets about the multiX jacket plus 2 A5 RECCO information booklets (provided by RECCO) in a clear plastic folder

8 A3 moodboards in a clear plastic folder

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USB stick containing a short video about the multiX jacket usage

Spec sheets of outer layer and insulation layer with all pattern pieces

114 Â