29 Indias: One Nation

29 indias : one nation brought to you by Global Adjustments

29 indias : one nation 1

29 indias : one nation

brought to you by Global Adjustments

29 indias : one nation 1

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29 indias : one nation 3

29 indias : one nation Š Global Adjustments Services Pvt. Ltd. 2014 Conceptualised and Published by Global Adjustments Services Pvt. Ltd. 5, 3rd Main Road, RA Puram, Chennai 600028 Telefax: +91 44 24617902/03 Email: info@globaladjustments.com www.globaladjustments.com

Cover image by M.V. Durandhar (Images of Asia) Editorial Team Ranjini Manian Susan Philip Yamini Vasudevan Sethulakshmy Nayar Shefali Ganesh Project Manager Anita Krishnaswamy Design Prem Kumar Advertising & Circulation Anupama Arvind Vyjayanthi Rajiv Amrita Suresh Printed at Srikals Graphics, Chennai www.srikals.com ISBN: 978-81-909181-5-2 All India Copyright Š All rights reserved in any media. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

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NATIONAL PLEDGE India is my country and all Indians are my brothers and sisters.

I love my country and I am proud of its rich and varied heritage.

I shall always strive to be worthy of it.

I shall give respect to my parents, teachers and all elders and treat everyone with courtesy.

To my country and my people, I pledge my devotion.

In their well-being and prosperity alone lies my happiness.

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Foreword

When my nephew was a little boy, growing up in Chennai, and his mother took him to visit his grandparents in Kerala, he would feel homesick after a few days. He would say, “Amma, let’s go home – to India!”

I’m sure many of us as adults can identify with that little boy.

We subconsciously believe that India starts and stops with where we are at – our community, sect, religion, state. Although we know there is a vast range of ethnicities, cultures and religions in India, we live an ethnocentric existence of ‘me’ being all important. Corporate India has people from all states working together, but, worryingly often, we hear of exclusive cliques being formed on the basis of language, religion or community. Leave alone inter-cultural misunderstandings between India and the world, we can easily have issues even within an area that speaks the same language. Our own vague feeling of the ‘otherness’ of the rest of India is putting brakes on our development.

India is an ancient civilisation shaped by shared history and sustained by a pluralistic democracy. It was this idea we set out to explain to our clients when we started Global Adjustments 20 years ago, and began publishing Culturama, our magazine. It has been a huge learning process for us – a process in which we discovered so much that 6

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is awesome and charming about this country of ours. And we learnt to love it more.

In this book, we share with you some of the learning we have gained. We try to take you over ‘narrow domestic walls’ and give you hand-picked snippets about each state. We tell you about the creator of ‘Miss Nimbupani’, a community that celebrates the coming of migratory birds, a temple to the ‘God of Love’, a trademark pickle and more. It is by no means comprehensive information about India, but we hope it will fire your curiosity and inspire you to find out more. We’ve also sprinkled some ‘Info-bytes’ – links to specific aspects discussed in that section. Simultaneously, 29 Indias: One Nation also seeks to reveal the unifying thread of history and spirituality, the commonality of purpose that holds us together, and shows that in our diversity lies our unity – our aikya. ‘Distant Echoes’ brings together a collection of tidbits about similarities of traits and traditions between states, regions and ethnic groups. The ‘Trivia’ segment has interesting facts about our country.

29 Indias: One Nation aims to help every Indian understand that while the individuality of each state is precious, the sum of the whole is greater than its parts. It is a reminder that our roots spread far and wide, that the varied values, experiences, traditions, achievements and knowledge that this subcontinent has generated and received contribute to each of us being who we are.

Dive into this book. Spend some time quizzing friends and family on the factoids in the book. Use the tidbits of information as icebreakers in conversation with colleagues from other ethnic, linguistic or religious groups. The book will serve to bond people from all over the country and get them working in unison. It will also help each Indian take the first step towards being a global citizen – the step of ‘knowing ourselves’.

Vande Mataram!

Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief, Culturama Founder & CEO, Global Adjustments globalindian@globaladjustments.com Visit this site for a musical tour of the 29 states: https://www.youtube.com/user/globaladjustments

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Contents

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Andhra Pradesh

10

Arunachal Pradesh

14

Assam

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Bihar

24

Chhattisgarh

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Goa

30

Gujarat

34

Haryana

40

Himachal Pradesh

44

Jammu and Kashmir

48

Jharkhand

52

Karnataka

56

Kerala

60

Madhya Pradesh

64

Maharashtra

68

Manipur

74

Meghalaya

78

Mizoram

82

Nagaland

86

Odisha

90

Punjab

94

Rajasthan

98

Sikkim

102

Tamil Nadu

106

Telangana

110

Tripura

112

Uttar Pradesh

114

Uttarakhand

118

West Bengal

122

The Capital City and Union Territories

126

Trivia

128

Distant Echoes

130

National Anthem

132

Acknowledgements

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Lord Venkateshwara at the temple in Tirupati

Andhra Pradesh

Land of Legends Capital: Hyderabad

How the land lies Andhra Pradesh is one of the southern states of India. It is bounded by Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, Odisha and Telangana.

Hyderabad is at present the capital of this state as well as of the newly created Telangana. A new capital is likely to come up in Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh. The rivers Krishna and Godavari irrigate the state, and Vishakapatnam, also known as Vizag, is one of India’s major ports.

Info-bytes - The intricate designs on kalamkari fabrics are created entirely by hand.

Observe how a plain piece of cloth is transformed into a work of art in this video: http://tinyurl.com/jvkd9j7 - If you are able to lay your hands on some of the delicious mangoes from Andhra Pradesh, be sure to try out this delicious, easy-to-make mango mousse recipe: http://tinyurl.com/nlg46uz

Worshipfully Yours The temple to Lord Venkateshwara in the hill town of Tirumala near Tirupati is one of the richest places of worship in the world, and also the most visited one. Regarded as one of the ‘richest’ Gods, legend goes that Lord Vishnu, in one of his avatars as Venkateshwara, wanted to marry a princess named Padmavathi (Goddess Lakshmi, Lord Vishnu’s consort, in a different form).

He had to pay a huge ‘bridal price’ to the girl’s father, for which he borrowed money from Kubera, the celestial treasurer. To this day, it is said, his devotees are helping him pay off this loan!

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Chandragiri Fort. Photo: Pics Relation

Sights to See Make a trip to the Araku Hill Station, visit the Chandragiri Fort and enjoy the scenic beauty of the Kolleru Lake.

Political Pressures

Culture Quotient

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Past Glories The Vijayanagar Empire, especially the reign of Krishna Deva Raya (1509–1529) was a golden age in the history of this region. Art, literature and economy flourished. The Vijayanagar kings were followed by the Nizams of Hyderabad. The Asaf Jhan dynasty, which traced its origins to Turkey, comprised seven Nizams and held sway over one of the largest and most wealthy of the princely states for two centuries, till 1948.

Personality Plus

Photo: Prato/Creative Commons

It was here that Kuchipudi, one of the classical dance forms of India, originated.

Thyagaraja, one of the greatest composers in the Carnatic system of music, and regarded as a member of the ‘great trinity’ of Carnatic music, was of Telugu descent.

Efforts to carve out another state – Telangana – from Andhra Pradesh has caused quite a bit of turmoil.

Andhra has a special place in the history of post-Independence India.

The ethnic identity of the Telugu-speaking people was so strong that they demanded a state of their own. When the Centre was disinclined to agree, a man named Potti Sreeramulu fasted to death in 1952. The Union Government gave in, and on October 1, 1953, the state of Andhra Pradesh, comprising the Telugu-speaking areas of the state of Madras, was created, setting the precedent for the linguistic division of states.

Tasty Treats If there’s one fruit the state is famous for, it’s the mango. And the people of Andhra can do wonders with its ripe and raw versions! The deep-red avakkai pickle is as fiery as the amber-hued mango jelly is tart and sweet.

Kalamkari

Crafted with Care Kalamkari, a type of block printing, originated in the Machilipatnam area of Andhra Pradesh – and is sought after by designers and fashionistas alike. The West Godavari district is famous for crocheted lace, while the wooden toys from the town of Kondapalli are GI-protected.

Ethnic Fingerprint Several tribes are native to the region. Many still retain their own special languages and culture. The Koyas, the Chenchus, the Gadabas and the Konda Reddis are some groups whose traditions fascinate anthropologists.

‘Jamdani’, a technique that can be traced to over 2,000 years ago, involves the weaving of intricate floral and geometric designs into fine muslin or silk. Over the years, it has been adapted to suit changing tastes and trends. This technique has earned a place in UNESCO’s list of the ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’. Today, Jamdani saris are largely woven in Srikakulam in Andhra Pradesh.

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Arunachal Pradesh Gateway to Serenity Capital: Itanagar

How the Land Lies The name Arunachal Pradesh means ‘the land of the rising sun’, and it is the largest of the group of states collectively known as ‘the seven sisters’. This state on the northeastern tip of India is bordered by three foreign countries – Bhutan lies on its west, Tibet on the north and Myanmar to the south.

Political Lines Info-bytes - Explore Arunachal Pradesh from your armchair with this documentary: http://tinyurl.com/qbdkn36 - Watch the Miji tribe of the state perform a traditional dance. The song is ‘Ho Daimo’, which means ‘welcome’: http://tinyurl.com/ldtsk4j - Learn more about the immense contribution that Uncle Moosa has made to the lives of children in the state: http://tinyurl.com/pcgrk8q

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The area was part of the North-East Frontier Agency under British rule. After Independence, it was initially part of Assam, and became a state in its own right on February 20, 1987.

Past Glories The mighty river Brahmaputra (literally meaning ‘son of Brahma’; Brahma is the ‘Creator’ in Hindu mythology), which flows through the northeast, originates in a pool called the Brahmakund in Arunachal Pradesh and is considered sacred. This scenic region finds mention as ‘Vidarbha’ in ancient Indian texts such as the Puranas.

The mighty Brahmaputra flows through Arunachal Pradesh. Photo: www.incredibleassam.org

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Culture Quotient Dance is an integral part of life in Arunachal Pradesh. The people dance in celebration at festivals and in worship during religious rituals. Some dances are typical of specific tribes, such as the Ponung dance of the Adis. Most are group dances, performed to the accompaniment of songs sung in chorus. Many are performed by both men and women, though some are the exclusive domain of men.

Personality Plus Bookworms would want to take note of this man: Sathyanarayan Mundayoor, who is known to the children of Arunachal Pradesh as ‘Uncle Moosa’. His mission is to introduce reading to these children, and in it he has been extraordinarily successful. By setting up over a dozen libraries – and getting the children run them – he has opened up the remotest corners of this mountainous state to the magic world of books! Books as diverse as Amar Chitra Katha comics and Roald Dahl’s works can be found in these far-flung libraries!

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Photo: www.cohands.in

War dance of the Adi tribe. Photo: Wikipedia

Crafted with Care Distinctive handlooms, carpets, bead and grass ornaments, thangkha paintings, and much more make Arunachal Pradesh a shopaholic’s and handicraft-lover’s paradise.

Worshipfully Yours The Tawang Buddhist Monastery is an important landmark. The largest monastery in India and the second largest in Asia, it has a 28-foot-tall golden statue of Lord Buddha – a truly breathtaking sight! Its vast library houses, among thousands of books and manuscripts, the Kangyur and Tengyur scriptures inscribed in gold.

Wild and Wonderful If the breathtaking beauty of mountains and valleys, swift-flowing rivers and limpid lakes are not attraction enough, the state is home to several National Parks which shelter a variety of birds and animals, many rare. The Orchidarium at Tepi, reported to be Asia’s largest, has some exclusive species of these exotic blooms.

Tasty Treats

Khau lam. Photo: www.athenadigitalmedia.com

If the mountain air makes you extra hungry, feast on thupka, a kind of soupy noodles with vegetables and/or meat – a popular dish of the state. Or try the paa-saa, a fish soup, and khau lam, which is rice steamed in bamboo tubes.

Ethnic Fingerprint Arunachal Pradesh has over 20 tribes, including the Adis, the IduMishmis, the Monpas and the Sherdukpens. Each tribe has its own characteristic dialect, costumes and customs. For instance, the Nyishi wear their hair long and tie it in a knot just above their foreheads.

A member of the Nyishi tribe. Photo: www.brahmaputratours.com

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Assam

Unparalleled Beauty Capital: Dispur How the Land Lies The name ‘Assam’ comes from the term ‘assom’ or ‘assama’, meaning ‘unequalled’ or ‘unrivalled’ – and this state is unmatched for its natural beauty, as well as its reserves of coal, petroleum and natural gas. The northeastern state is bounded on two sides by Bangladesh and Bhutan.

Political Lines The region, specifically the kingdom of Kamrup, is mentioned in the great Indian epic Mahabharata. The Ahoms ruled it for a long time. The British annexed it in the 19th century and post-Independence, the states of Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram, Meghalaya and Nagaland were carved from it.

Past Glories

Info-bytes - Watch the Bihu dance performed by young girls and boys wearing the traditional attire of their tribe: http://tinyurl.com/ma4zr2j - This video highlights the process by which Assam’s world-famous tea is made: http://tinyurl.com/p8a2x9g - There is an astounding variety of wildlife and birds in this state – watch this video for more: http://tinyurl.com/nbobdnt 18

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For your next Valentine’s Day, you could plan a trip to the Madan Kamdev temple – dedicated to the ‘God of Love’! This and other shrines unearthed in the depths of dense jungle date back to between the 10th and 12th centuries BC, when the Pala Dynasty ruled Kamrup. The shrines are a treasure trove of detailed sculptures and carvings of celestial beings, demons, animals and humans.

Ethnic Fingerprint The Boro is the largest indigenous tribe of the region. Other than the tribes, the population is a mix of various ethnic origins. The Ahom people were settlers who traced their roots to the Yunnan province of China, while among other settlers were those of Burmese or Aryan descent. The Assamese language is considered the eastern-most member of the Indo-European family.

Photo: Ann Cambier, UK

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Tasty Treats World over, Assam is synonymous with one beverage – tea. Assam has been described as the world’s largest tea-growing region, and there’s even a tea (made from a native tea plant) named after the state. Rice, fish and mustard oil, local herbs and bamboo are integral parts of the distinctive Assamese cuisine.

Crafted with Care Weaving is part of the life and culture of the state, and the Assamese produce the unique and exquisite Eri, Muga and Pat silk and cotton varieties.

These fabrics are much in demand not only in other parts of India but all over the world as well. Assam is also known for its handmade gold jewellery and bell metal utensils.

The Assam Doodle Vaidehi Reddy, a Class 9 student from Pune, created this doodle for Google’s annual doodle competition in 2014 and took home the first prize. She called her work ‘Natural and Cultural Paradise – Assam’ and described it as reflecting the beauty of the state.

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Wild and Wonderful

Photo: Marina Marangos, Greece

Nature buffs and animal lovers should head to the Kaziranga and Manas National Parks – both World Heritage Sites. The Parks are known to spearhead efforts to save the threatened great Indian one-horned rhinoceros. Manas is also a tiger and elephant reserve.

Culture Quotient In Assam, there is one festival – or rather three variations of one – which is celebrated across religious demarcations. Bihu, in its Bohag, Bhogali and Kangali avatars, revolves around the agricultural calendar and, like festivals everywhere, is associated with song, dance and feasting.

Worshipfully Yours Poa means one-fourth – and the tomb of Giasuddin Auliya is called ‘Poa Mecca’ as it is believed to endow the devout visitor with a quarter of the grace he would receive on worshipping at Mecca.

Personality Plus

Photo: Diganta Talukdar

Talk about high achievers – Shankardeva was a poet-saint-scholarplaywright-social reformer (whew!) of the 15th–16th century. He was credited with both initiating a renaissance in literature and art in the region, and formulating a facet of the Bhakti movement that popularised a set of concepts and values to synthesise society.

He set up prayer halls across the region where people of all castes, creeds and classes were welcome to worship. A string of sattras or monasteries now propagate the system of religion he preached.

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Bihar

Spiritual Significance Capital: Patna

How the Land Lies A land-locked state in eastern India, Bihar’s name is derived from the word ‘vihara’ or monastery – an indication of the large number of Buddhist monasteries in the region.

Political Pressures Bihar’s capital, Patna, has been important literally for ages. It was the capital of the famous Magadh Empire. It was named Patna during the reign of Sher Shah Suri (1486–1545; he was a general in the Mughal empire who briefly succeeded Humayun, the father of the famed Mughal emperor Akbar).

Ethnic Fingerprint Info-bytes - Famed Indian chef Sanjeev Kapoor shows you how to make litti choka. If you don’t understand Hindi, wait till the end of the clip for ingredients and instructions in English: http://tinyurl.com/qj3q9d6 - Learn more about Bodh Gaya, regarded as the place where Prince Siddartha attained enlightenment and took on the title of the Buddha: http://tinyurl.com/l5wcsy3 24

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Like most Indian states, Bihar is home to many tribes. Each has its distinctive patterns of language, dressing and cuisine. But some things are shared, such as reverence for the sal tree. When the sal blooms, the tribes of the region celebrate, worshipping the spirit of the tree, and seeking blessings for a good harvest.

Culture Quotient Birdwatchers might be touched by Bihar’s Sama-Chakeva festival – a unique event that celebrates the coming of migratory birds. Young girls make clay images of the winged visitors and perform various rituals, ending with the ‘vidai’ or farewell ceremony, with a ‘till-wemeet-again’ element – the birds are invited to return the next year.

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Young monks-to-be. Photo: iStock

This was the birthplace of Prince Siddhartha, who later became the Buddha. It was here, at Bodh Gaya, that the Buddha attained enlightenment and at Vaishali that he preached his last sermon.

Vaishali was also the birthplace of Mahavir, the last saint of the Jain faith. Sikhism too has a Bihar connection – Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth guru of the religion, was born here! On the academic front, Bihar is where the famed Nalanda University – said to be the world’s first international one – was located.

Bodh Gaya. Photo: Lakhsmi Krupa

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Litti choka. Photo: www.niketakitchen.com

Past Glories

Tasty Treats Litti choka – wheat flour balls with a spicy filling, served with vegetable gravy – is a favourite Bihari snack. You could also try and detect the Mughal influence in the Bihari kebab. The sweet-toothed must certainly try the murabba (a type of sweet pickle) and the peda (a sweet made with milk and sugar).

Personality Plus Many people from this part of India contributed significantly to the freedom movement. Of them, one holds a special place – Raj Kumar Shukla, a man who worked hard to secure a better future for lakhs of poor indigo farmers labouring under exploitative British rule. Raj made such a strong impression on Mahatma Gandhi that the latter chose the Champaran region of Bihar to launch his historic Satyagraha campaign.

Worshipfully Yours In the light of growing political tensions around the world, a visit to the 400-metre-high Vishwa Shanti Stupa in Rajgir might be in order. Built in shining white marble, is said to be the world’s tallest peace pagoda. Interestingly, the Stupa was built under the supervision of Nichidatsu Fujii, a Japanese Buddhist monk.

Sights to See

Photo: Kajal Vishal

The Sufi festival at Kako is a must-see. It is a state-promoted celebration at Hazrat Kamal Saheb Bibi’s mausoleum.

Crafted with Care The Madhubani style of painting, a typically Bihari art form, was traditionally done on freshly plastered walls of village houses. Today, it is done on canvas and cloth as well. Another rural art form of the region is Sujani embroidery. Originally a way of recycling old clothes to make quilts for newborns, layers of fabric were stitched together and embroidered in a distinctive style. Now the Sujani embroidery style is used to embellish skirts, stoles and other apparel.

Madhubani painting. Photo: Julie Grant Weiss, USA

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Chhattisgarh

Surprises Galore Capital: Raipur

How the land lies

Photo: Carlos Berruezo

A central Indian state, Chhattisgarh is landlocked. It is India’s tenth largest in terms of size and sixteenth in terms of population.

Political Pressures Info-bytes - Explore one of Chhattisgarh’s oldest temples, as well as some other archeological marvels of the state in the region of Sirpur in the state: http://tinyurl.com/oqhkyty - Have a craving for jalebi? Try this quick and easy-to-make recipe for this delicious dish (English subtitles are given): http://tinyurl.com/psv9a4b 28

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One of India’s ‘youngest’ states, it is only some 14 years old. Carved from the state of Madhya Pradesh, its creation fulfilled a long-standing demand of a section of the population for a separate identity.

Past Glories The debate about the origin of the name of this state offers a glimpse of its rich past. The word can be broken up into ‘chhattis’, which means 36, and ‘garh’, or fort. The area is home to a string of forts – testimony to the military might of rulers of yore.

Some take it to be a corruption of Chedisgarh, or the land of the Chedis, who once controlled the area. It could also be a reference to the Chhattisgarhin Devi temple, which has 36 pillars.

Sights to See

Photo: India Tourism,Chennai

With large tracts of forest, Chhattisgarh is replete with natural beauty. A visit to the Kanger Valley National Park will give you a chance to see not only tigers and leopards up close, but also waterfalls and mysterious caves.

Crafted with Care Chhattisgarh is known for dhokra craftsmanship – otherwise called bell metal or lost-wax casting. Initially used to make articles for worship, the skilled craftsmen have now diversified into producing utility and ornamental items, including jewellery. Also famous in this region is Kosa silk. Made painstakingly from cocoons of silkworms that feed on specific tree species, this silk is available naturally in shades ranging from cream through pale gold and orange to dark honey, and traditionally coloured and printed with natural dyes.

Worshipfully Yours One of the finest examples of ancient brick temples is located in this state.

The seventh century Laxman Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, has a stone lintel or frame for its main doorway and exquisite carvings as well.

Ethnic Fingerprint A state with a significant tribal population, Chhattisgarh has much to interest the anthropologist and the traveller. A visit to the Tribal Museum at Jagdalpur will give visitors a good overview of what life as a tribal involves in this part of the country.

Culture Quotient The tribes here are among the oldest in India. Many of them have retained much of their original lifestyles. For instance, barter is still in vogue among some groups. Many tribes hold weekly markets, called haats at which visitors can pick up some unique artifacts in terracotta or wood.

Personality Plus Award winning litterateur Vinod Kumar Shukla is an eminent son of Chhattisgarh. Among his best known works are Naukar Ki Kameez (literally translated to mean ‘The Servant’s Shirt’), which was translated into English and published by Penguin, and Deewar Me Ek Khidkhi Rehthi Thi (literally translated to mean ‘There Was a Window in the Wall’).

Tasty Treats If you have a sweet tooth, you have much in common with the people of Chhattisgarh – and a lot to look forward to! Crisp, golden jalebis, soaked to bursting in sugar syrup, are a ubiquitous part of the menu. Also, the mahuwa fruit is vital in tribal cuisine – from it is made a particularly potent brew.

Jalebi

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Goa

Coastal Paradise Capital: Panaji

How the Land Lies

Info-bytes - This clip explains the ways in which the Fugdi dance is performed in different parts of Goa, and the cultural elements that are part of this tradition (the video contains English subtitles): http://tinyurl.com/n29n3qw - Listen to eminent vocalist Lata Mangeshkar sing ‘Aye Mere Watan Ke Logo’, a patriotic song based on the sacrifices made by Indian soldiers during the Sino-Indian war of 1962.

Lata first sang the song on January 27, 1963, in the presence of then Prime Minster Jawaharlal Nehu, who was moved to tears by the lyrics and rendition. This clip is from a concert in Mumbai in 1997 (the video contains English subtitles): http://tinyurl.com/ml49qhj 30

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Perched on the western coast of peninsular India, bordering the Arabian Sea, this is the country’s smallest state (in terms of area) and among the richest (in terms of GDP). The Western Ghats, clothed in dense rainforests, make it rich in another sense – biodiversity.

Political Pressures Goa’s history is quite distinctive in the Indian context. The Portuguese, who came seeking trade ties, defeated the royal family in power there in 1510, and created a permanent settlement. By the mid-18th century, it was known as the overseas state of Portuguese India. And it remained a part of Portugal on the subcontinent till it was annexed by India in 1961. It became a state in 1987.

Past Glories The Greek geographer Ptolemy mentions the region, calling it ‘Aparantha’.

That the area was the scene of very early human settlement is seen from rock art and carvings dating back 20,000 to 30,000 years.

Patnem Beach, Goa. Photo: Helen Taylor

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Culture Quotient Several of India’s famous musicians and music makers come from Goa. Of these, Bollywood’s beloved playback singer Lata Mangeshkar is perhaps the best known. Goa is full of dance, music and theatre. The Fugdi, Dhalo and Kunbi are some traditional dance forms. Much of the dance and music here carry combined strains of Hindu, Muslim and Christian influences. The annual Carnival is uniquely Goa – an extravaganza of colour, music, revelry, tableaux and theatrical performances, mainly held in the towns of Panaji, Vasco, Mapusa and Margaon.

Mapusa Market. Photo: Saritha Rao

Bebinca cake.

Photo: Aparna. B/My Diverse Kitchen

Tasty Treats The influence of Portugal is predominant in Goan cuisine. Xacuti, a spicy lamb or chicken curry, is a favourite. Vindaloo, usually made with pork, is justly famed too. Vegetarians can relish khatkhate, a type of stew, and for the sweet-toothed, there’s bebinca, heavy with coconut. And skip the beer – there’s feni, a type of country liquor made exclusively in the state, to pair with your meals.

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Personality Plus Indians from all states will always speak fondly of this man’s amazingly detailed drawings of crowds of people engaged in daily life, or his specific creations like ‘Miss Nimbupani’ – for cartoonist Mario Miranda brought Goa home to people all over India. A recipient of the Padma Vibhushan award, among many honours, Miranda, who died in 2011, aged 85, still has a strong fan following.

The iconic Amul Girl and Mario Miranda’s creations, Miss Nimbupani and Miss Fonseca, bid the cartoonist adieu.

Ethnic Fingerprint Goa is a melting pot of varied cultural and religious influences. The advent of the Portuguese had a great impact on the region, and the transition to being a part of the Indian nation was not smooth. Interestingly, as per Portuguese law, those born in Goa before 1961 and their immediate descendants can ‘recover’ their Portuguese nationality.

There are therefore many Goans now living in Portugal.

Sights to See Goa is almost synonymous with beaches, so it’s near superfluous to talk about them. But there’s more to the state than sun, sea and sand. Do visit the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. On a different end of the scale, the Casino Royale provides heady excitement!

Bom Jesus Basilica.

Photo: Ashok Vishwanathan

Crafted with Care

Worshipfully Yours

Bamboo, coconut and shells are the chief raw material for the handicraft industry in Goa. A wide variety of items, utilitarian and ornamental, are crafted from them, and much loved as souvenirs.

The Bom Jesus Basilica is a World Heritage Site. It houses the relics of St. Francis Xavier, who is considered by many to be Goa’s patron saint. Every once in a while, the Catholic Church authorises the placing of the relics for public viewing and worship, drawing massive crowds of devotees.

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Gujarat

Land of Legends and Lions Capital: Gandhi Nagar

How the land lies This state in the west of India is the home state of the country’s Prime Minister, Narendra Modi. It shares part of its land border with Pakistan, and the Arabian Sea laps its coast. It gets its name from the ancient Gujjar clan, which once inhabited this region.

Political Pressures Gujarat’s port city of Surat was where the British colonisation of India started. Vessels of the British East India Company used it as a trading and transit point till the Company won the right to set up a factory there after defeating the Portuguese, who had control of the sea trade from this region.

Past Glories Archeological finds of settlements as old as the Indus Valley Civilisation along the banks of the Sabarmati and Mahi rivers in Gujarat prove that this region was important from the earliest days.

Crafted with Care Shopaholics and fashionistas would go ga-ga over the textiles in Gujarat!

Rich, hand-woven Patola silks vie with bright tie-dyed and blockprinted cotton and made-ups embellished with beads, embroidery and mirror work. In fact, it might be a case of too much choice!

Patterned block used for block printing

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Fabrics embellished with beads and mirror work are a specialty of Gujarat.

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

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Culture Quotient

(Top) Somnath Temple.

(Right) The Asiatic lion at Gir Sanctuary Photo: Nodari Lucia, Italy

Info-bytes Sights to See Gujarat has something for everyone. For the history-seeker, the Naulakha Palace; for the wildlife enthusiast, the famous Gir Sanctuary, home to the Asiatic lion; for the religiously inclined, the many Jain temples in the Shatrunjaya Hills and the Somnath Temple; for the culture-vulture, the Bhadra Purnima, the Shamlaji Melo and Mahadev Fairs; and for the sports lover, the International Kite Festival.

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- Even if you can’t go all the way to the Akshardham Complex, you can watch the Sat-Chit-Anand water show at this link. The English subtitles will help you follow the flow of the presentation: http://tinyurl.com/lx4s2gf - This recipe for dhokla, a popular Gujarati snack, has an interesting twist – it is ‘tricoloured’ dhokla! The list of ingredients and directions are given in English at the end of the video: http://tinyurl.com/oahg4no - Watch this brief clip on the Siddi tribe – which originated in Africa, but its members currently live in Jambur village in Gujarat: http://tinyurl.com/oahg4no

Navaratri, when Durga, the Mother Goddess, is worshiped for nine nights, is celebrated with special fervour in Gujarat.

Traditional dance forms like the Ras and Garba, as well as the region’s vibrant ethnic music and costumes, are on display during the festival.

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Ethnic Fingerprint

Dhokla.

Photo: www.foodindia.blogspot.com

Tasty Treats The state abounds in so many culinary delights, it’s hard to pick a favourite!

If you want a quick introduction to the flavours of the state, try the dhokla, the khandvi, the thepla and the handvo – and pick the best of the lot!

At first glance, Jambur looks like any other Indian village – a Gujarati village, if you go only by the language spoken. But your eyes will belie your ears – the features of the villagers are distinctly African. They belong to the Siddi tribe, which originated in Africa.

One story goes that a long-ago Nawab visited Africa and fell in love with a woman there. He married her and brought her home, along with an entourage of slaves, ancestors of the Siddi.

The pull of their roots remains strong in them. By night, the Siddi entertain tourists by dancing to African beats.

The Siddi tribe.

Photo: www.aditirindani.wordpress.com

Personality Plus

Worshipfully Yours The Swaminarayana Akshardham Complex, spread over 23 acres, is one of the biggest Hindu temples in the state. The Sat-ChitAnand water show, a unique presentation of the way to inner peace, is a big attraction. Actors perform against the background of a huge water screen, and the show includes fireballs and lasers.

Gujarat is home to many stalwarts of the country – Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel, one of the founding fathers of the Republic of India, former Prime Minister Morarji Desai, and K.M. Munshi, educationist and litterateur, to name a few. However, the best known of Gujarat’s sons is Mohandas K. Gandhi, the man who gave the world the concept of non-violent non-cooperation as a ‘weapon’ of protest. The capital, Gandhinagar, is named after him.

Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel

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Haryana

Abode of God Capital: Chandigarh

How the land lies

Info-bytes - Watch this ESPN documentary on Kapil Dev – which includes sound bytes from cricketing legends such as Ian Botham and Michael Holding: http://tinyurl.com/kbd73o8 - This documentary (about an hour long) talks about the Mahabharata – and touches upon elements that are both fact and fiction.

In between are scenes from the epic, with English actors enacting important scenes (such as Krishna’s sermon to Arjuna, which becomes the Bhagavad Gita) in a minimalist setting: http://tinyurl.com/n8y6vgy 40

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This landlocked state in northern India may be small compared to some others, but it’s very important strategically, as it cups the national capital Delhi on three sides. A large part of the state falls under the National Capital Region (NCR), and enjoys all the attendant advantages. Haryana shares its capital Chandigarh with the neighbouring state of Punjab.

Political Pressures One reason for the state’s creation was the desire for an identity separate from Punjabi speakers. Haryanvi, with dialectical variations, is the language of Haryana. At the time of the creation of the state in 1966, Haryana was willing to have any language other than Punjabi as a second, or alternative official language, and the choice fell inexplicably on Tamil, a language from the deep South! It was only four years ago that Punjabi was given second language status.

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

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Business Hub Haryana’s Gurgaon district, recognised as a major industrial hub, is a sought-after destination for the IT sector, and is also home to Maruti Suzuki India, the country’s leading passenger car manufacturer, and Honda, the world's largest manufacturer of two-wheelers.

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Crafted with Care Anyone who is interested in handicrafts should not miss the Surajkund Crafts Mela. An annual event that is held in February, the mega show brings together craftsmen from across the length and breadth of the country.

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

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Worshipfully Yours The Mata Mansa Devi temple complex, dedicated to a form of Shakti, the Mother Goddess, is spread over a hundred acres at the foothills of the Shivalik Mountain range. Devotees throng this temple through the year, but Navrathri, the nine nights dedicated to the Goddess, is an especially auspicious time to visit.

Personality Plus Cricket buffs would be more than familiar with the ‘Haryana Hurricane’ – Kapil Dev, who took India to victory in the World Cup in 1983.

Wisden Cricketers’ Almanack (regarded as the ‘Bible’ of cricket) named this swashbuckling allrounder Indian cricketer of the century in 2002.

Sportspersons from Haryana have done India proud. Many of medalists at the recently concluded Commonwealth Games were from the state.

Tasty Treats Like its culture, Haryana’s cuisine is not widely different from that of neighbouring states, but it does lay claim to something unique – the chyawanprash – an ayurvedic tonic and immunity builder.

It is believed that the ancient Sage Chyawan perfected the formulation at his ashram in Haryana’s Dhosi Hills.

Sage Chyawan

Sights to See A visit to the Sri Krishna Museum at Kurukshetra is a must.

Feast your eyes on the works of a galaxy of Indian artists, both modern and from the past, which are displayed here.

Culture Quotient Though it shares much of its cultural heritage with neighbouring states, the raagni, a type of poetry, is indigenous to this region, as is swang, a form of folk art integrating music and folktales. Pt. Lakhmi Chand, an exponent of raagni, is known as the ‘Shakespeare of Haryana’.

Past Glories The region is the site of the legendary battle of Kurukshetra, the culmination of the famous epic Mahabharata. It was here that Lord Krishna is believed to have given invaluable advice to his cousin Prince Arjuna, as he prepared for battle– advice immortalised in the Bhagavad Gita, and valid even today. History also records three epic battles at Panipat in the region, between the 16th and 18th centuries, which changed the course of Indian history.

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29 indias : one nation Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Himachal Pradesh

Snow-clad Wonder Capital: Shimla

How the land lies ‘Him’ means snow in Sanskrit, and Himachal Pradesh, roughly translated, means the ‘Land of Snow’. The region was also once known as ‘Deva Bhumi’ or ‘Land of Gods’. Replete with scenic beauty, this northern Indian state is a favourite holiday and honeymoon destination.

Political Pressures

Info-bytes - The Jakhu Temple has a link to the epic, Ramayana, in which Hanuman holds a special role as Rama’s ‘lieutenant’. When Rama’s brother Lakshmana is hurt in battle, Hanuman is sent to find the sanjivani – a medicinal herb. While on his quest, he is said to have stopped here to catch his breath: http://tinyurl.com/ky94sh7 - Join Rocky and Mayur, television’s beloved foodies, as they explore food and culture in Himachal Pradesh: http://tinyurl.com/n4pjvrl

The state’s capital, Shimla, was also the summer capital of the British in India. It was here that the decision to partition the country was finally taken. Today, Dharamshala city is the headquarters of the Tibetan Government in exile, led by the Dalai Lama.

Crafted with Care Souvenir hunters will find many distinctive Himachal Pradesh things to take home– the flat-topped Kullu cap with its characteristic embroidered band, footwear made of dried grass and scraps of wool, and flamboyantly coloured hand-knitted socks, to name a few. Exquisitely embroidered rumal or large head-scarfs are part of the traditional attire of women from the mountains, but go well with other clothes too.

Namda rugs made of beaten wool make excellent conversation pieces.

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Sights to See Examples of Tibetan influence, breathtaking scenery, the only natural ice-skating rink in Asia (in Shimla), street bazaars in towns and cities, churches, temples, museums – there’s so much to see and do in Himachal Pradesh!

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Worshipfully Yours

Tasty Treats Among dishes unique to this region are madra, a slow-cooked dish made of rice, kidney beans, a gamut of spices and yoghurt, and patande, a type of pancake. The Tibetan touch can be tasted in chhang, a wine made of fermented rice. And to round off your meal, Madra with rice.

Photo: www.akritiankit.blogspot.com bite into rosy red apples for which Himachal Pradesh is famous.

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The ancient Jakhu Temple at Shimla is dedicated to Hanuman, the Monkey God. A 108-foot statue of the God, built at an altitude of over 8,100 feet, is believed to be the world’s tallest at such a height.

A major pilgrimage centre, the area is filled, aptly enough, with monkeys who petition pilgrims for ‘offerings.’ If possible, keep a stout stick to save yourself from being ‘harassed’ by the monkeys.

Allan Octavian Hume

Personality Plus

Ethnic Fingerprint

Many men and women who were major influences on the art, history and culture of the country have their roots here. One man, of British descent, also called this region home, and left an indelible mark on the fabric of India. Allan Octavian Hume, former Civil Servant and noted ornithologist, spearheaded the founding of the Indian National Congress (INC) while living in Shimla. The INC in turn successfully spearheaded India’s struggle for freedom from British rule.

The region is a receptacle of a medley of influences. The Mongols, Sikhs, Gorkhas and the British all left their marks on the state.

Varied religious imprints can also be found, not least of them architectural – Christian missionaries built churches while Buddhists set up monasteries.

Past Glories Historical evidence says the region was once divided into several small republics known as ‘Janapada’ in the Vedic period. Even earlier, it was part of the Indus Valley Civilisation.

Culture Quotient Music and dance keep the blood zinging in the cold of the mountains. Each area of the state has its own distinctive style. The mellifluous samskara songs are sung mainly by women, while the open-air burah dance is performed solely by men brandishing arms.

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

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Jammu and Kashmir

Paradise on Earth Capital: Srinagar

How the Land lies This Himalayan state is made up of three regions – Jammu, the Kashmir Valley and Ladakh. What’s more, it has two capitals – Srinagar in summer, and Jammu in winter!

Political Pressures

Info-bytes - When Mughal Emperor Jahangir was asked on his death bed about what his cherished desire was, he is reported to have said, ‘Kashmir. The rest is worthless’.

This documentary is a tribute to the comment as it captures the sheer beauty of this state: http://tinyurl.com/ozgrut6 - Learn to make rogan josh, one of the famous Kashmiri dishes: http://tinyurl.com/o4rpgpt

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Those who are abreast of Indian history and politics will know what an important part this state played during the Partition of India in 1947.

Back then, it was a princely state – meaning, it was ‘ruled’ by a King. At the time of the partition of India and Pakistan, princely states were given the option of joining one country or the other. Maharaja Hari Singh, the ruler of Kashmir, sought time to decide. Before he could make up his mind, Pakistan invaded his territory, which made him join the Indian Union. Even today, the state has special Constitutional privileges.

Uniquely J&K There is so much that is unique here! It is the only Indian state to have its own flag. It is one of the few places in the world where saffron grows – the golden-orange stigmas of the purple flowers are worth their weight in gold! Houseboats are an integral part of the ‘real estate’ scene, and are taken for granted as dwelling places. The Kashmiri chilli gives a fiery red colour to food, but is surprisingly mild – go on, take a bite!

Photo: Deberoi, USA

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Culture Quotient The masked dance in the Hemis Monastery of Ladakh is a notto-be-missed experience. Monks, clad in rich costumes and wearing masks to represent mythological characters, put up this ceremonial performance. Wanawun music is distinctly Kashmiri, peformed during wedding ceremonies. The Rouff, Dumhal, Nagma and Dogri are famous folk dances, while ghazals and Sufi songs are popular genres of music in the area.

Masked dance at the Hemis Monastery. Photo: Shefali Ganesh

Ethnic Fingerprint The region was predominantly populated by nomadic herdsmen who moved from one mountain slope to the next in search of pasture for their flocks of sheep and goats. The Dogras are the largest ethnic group; the Gujjars and Gaddis are two others.

The Changpas are a prominent tribe in the Ladakh region.

Personality Plus Like all other states, Jammu and Kashmir has its share of famous people in all walks of life. In the world of entertainment, the name of Kundan Lal Saigal stands out – the actor-singer was perhaps the first ‘superstar’ of Hindi cinema. His title role as the drunken Devdas, who took to the bottle after being unsuccessful in love, is considered iconic even today.

Photo: Quadrantine Nathalie

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Dal Lake. Photo: Ben Bowling, USA

Kashmiri wool carpet

Crafted with Care Think Kashmir, and Pashmina shawls come immediately to mind.

The genuine article is made exclusively of wool from the undercoat of a breed of goat that lives in high-altitude areas, and is eyepoppingly expensive. When mixed with ordinary wool though, they’re more affordable. Carpets, distinctive embroidery in floral designs, and papier mâche artifacts are other specialties of the state.

Sights to See This breathtakingly beautiful state is a tourist’s paradise. The Dal Lake, Shalimar Bagh, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg are muchfrequented spots. For a thrilling encounter with the wild, take a Snow Leopard Trek in Ladakh. November–March is the ideal time. Don’t forget to pack your woollens and your binoculars!

Worshipfully Yours The cave shrine of Mata Vaishno Devi, 5,200 feet above sea level, in the triple-peaked Trikuta Mountain draws hundreds of thousands of devotees from all over India and abroad. The arduous 12-km trek from the Katra base camp does not deter the pilgrims (called yatris), who visit the cave for a glimpse of the sacred natural rock formations.

Tasty Treats Meat lovers, rejoice! The wazwan, a multicourse, meat-focussed banquet, is the zenith of Muslim cuisine in Kashmir. It is said that 21 different mutton dishes are prepared for the grand banquets! Even the more plebian food of the region can be termed exotic. Take green tea, for example. Traditionally made in special kettles called samovars, it is flavoured with spices and saffron. Kashmiris drink it through the day to ward off winter chills.

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Jharkhand

Land of Jungles Capital: Ranchi

Info-bytes - There are dances and songs that are specific to each part of the year in this state – learn more about different songs and dances of Jharkhand from this video:http://tinyurl.com/n3ka63l - While it may not top tourists’ list as a destination, Jharkhand has its own set of treasures that will entrance visitors: http://tinyurl.com/mrhbg5k

How the land lies The land of jungles, this eastern Indian state is a landlocked area once almost totally clothed in dense forest. The heavily industrialised cities of Jamshedpur, home to India’s first private iron and steel plant, and Bokharo, comprise the other side of its face now.

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Ethnic Fingerprint

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

The Santhals and Oraons are among the largest tribes that call this area home. The Santhals, in fact, are the largest Austro-Asiatic group in India. Each tribe has distinct practices – the Dhumkuria or youth dormitories of the Oraons, for instance, are a sort of finishing school for boys.

However, many of these practices are dying out.

Political Pressures This is a relatively ‘young’ state – just about 14 years old. Originally part of the state of Bihar, it was largely undeveloped. It is well on the road to progress now, with better transport connectivity and educational facilities.

Past Glories

Sights to See Those who like to dabble in a bit of astrology might find the Nakshatra Van Park in Ranchi to be of special interest. The park is laid out in symbolic representation of the divisions of the sky as per astrology. Each division is dominated by a celestial body and associated with a zodiac sign. Each constellation has a representative tree of medicinal, economic or aesthetic value in Hindu tradition.

These trees are planted in the appropriate sectors of the park.

Tasty Treats The rugda is a type of mushroom which starts springing up in the shelter of the sal trees of Jharkhand’s jungles when the monsoon sets in.

They are then harvested by tribal women. Considered a delicacy, they command premium prices. However, they are becoming rare, and are available only during the first few days of the rainy season. Thankfully, scientists are taking steps to see that this tasty treat doesn’t disappear from the face of the earth.

Worshipfully Yours Traditional tribal lifestyles are closely linked with nature. Trees and plants, rain and rivers are the sustainers of life. Sacred groves where spirits are believed to manifest and natural wealth is revered, are common features of the Jharkhand landscape. The custom helps to preserve the rich biodiversity of the forests.

The language of the tribals of the region is said to bear close similarity to the language used by the people of the ancient Harappan civilisation. Obviously, the area is of great interest to archaeologists, anthropologists and historians.

Culture Quotient The tribes give great importance to song and dance. Many tribal villages have an akhra, a meeting ground-cum-dance floor, where people gather without caste, gender or economic barriers, at times of celebration and sorrow, to express their emotions through music and movement.

Personality Plus On October 3, 1978, a team of doctors led by Dr. Subhas Mukherjee made an astonishing announcement – the birth of Durga, a test-tube baby in India! It came just 67 days after the world’s first such birth was made public in the United Kingdom. The method used by Dr. Mukherjee, who was born in what is now the state of Jharkhand, is widely used even today.

Crafted with Care

Photo: India Tourism Board

Wood and bamboo are the preferred raw materials that the predominantly tribal population of Jharkhand uses to produce handicrafts that are both utilitarian and aesthetic. Demand for the state’s bamboo baskets, carved wooden spoons, decorative door panels, the paitkar or scroll paintings and distinctive, puppet-like toys painted in canary yellow, is picking up.

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Karnataka

Where History and Technology Meet Capital: Bengaluru

How the land lies

Info-bytes - Don’t be put off by the long name – bisi bele bath is actually an easy dish to make, even for newbie cooks. Watch this video for a stepby-step tutorial: http://tinyurl.com/l3q7z83 - This brief clip gives you a quick rundown on how Bangalore came to be the ‘Silicon Valley of India’: http://tinyurl.com/mmlztu8 - ‘The Sword of Tipu Sultan’ tells you the life story of the famous ruler. Watch the first volume at the link given – and follow up with links on the sidebar for the rest of the series, which runs up to 12 episodes. (English subtitles are given for dialogues): http://tinyurl.com/qe3mkt4 56

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The seventh largest state in terms of area, Karnataka, in the south of India, has a long coastline, verdant hills, dense forests, breathtaking waterfalls, ancient palaces and temples, and also a thriving software industry. Capital city Bengaluru (earlier known as Bangalore) goes by the sobriquet of the ‘Silicon Valley of India’.

Political Pressures Originally home to several powerful empires and princely states, the region was once known as the State of Mysore. It was renamed Karnataka in 1973.

Past Glories The area now called Karnataka has always been rich, not only in minerals and precious metals but also in culture and philosophy.

Gold found in the ruins of the Indus Valley Civilisation has been traced to this part of the country, while literary and spiritual movements which originated here sustain to this day.

Sculptures at Hampi. Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Sights to See Your itinerary is sure to be packed – but don’t leave out the rolling hills of Coorg, the stunning fingerprints of the erstwhile Vijayanagar Empire at Hampi, the majestic Mysore Palace, the beautiful Brindavan Gardens and the Renigunta and Bannerghatta wildlife Sanctuaries. Shopaholics should head straight to the boutiques on Bengaluru’s Brigade Road for a wide variety of apparel and acccessories.

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Personality Plus

Aishwarya Rai Bachchan

Among the many men and women from this part of the country who have left their mark on the Indian and world stage, Tipu Sultan tops the list for flamboyant courage. Known as ‘Shere-e-Mysore’ or the Tiger of Mysore, he halted the march of British colonialism in South India, managing to emerge victorious in two wars. The Mysorean Missiles, a type of rocket developed by his father, Hyder Ali, and improved by him, form the basis of the famous Congreve rockets devised by the Royal Arsenal in England. Coming to more recent times, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan – regarded as one of the most beautiful women in the world, and who has found fame as an actor in Bollywood and Hollywood – was born in Mangalore, a port city in this state.

Crafted with Care

Worshipfully Yours

Mysore paintings embellished with gold leaf, intricately worked Bidri artifacts in metal and sandalwood handicrafts are all unique crafts of Karnataka.

There’s even a real-life ‘toy town’ – Channapatna. The lacquered wooden toys made here have been awarded the GI tag. Parents take note: there’s not a whiff of lead in the bright vegetable dyes used to paint them.

The towering statue of Gomateshwara Bahubali, a Jain Saint, at Shravanabelagola is said to be the world’s tallest sculpted monolith. It attracts lakhs of pilgrims, particularly during the most important festival, called the Mahamastakabhisheka.

Vegetable dyes are used to paint the wooden toys made in Channapatna

Tasty Treats

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

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Each region of Karnataka has a distinctive cuisine. The Dharwad pedha (a sumptuous sweet of thickened milk and sugar) has a GI tag, while others like the Mysore pak (a decadent, ghee-soaked dessert made of gram flour and sugar), and the crispy savoury Maddur vada are identified by their places of origin. However, Karnataka’s signature dish has to be bisi bele bath – a spicy, one-pot comfort meal of rice, dal and vegetables.

Culture Quotient Classical art, folk art, historic palaces, modern architecture – you name it, Karnataka has it. Musicians from here have risen to world fame in both the Carnatic and Hindustani schools of classical music. Yakshagana is a vibrant form of native traditional folk theatre while the modern Indian literary scene has been enriched by stalwarts such as Girish Karnad, U.R. Ananthmurthy and K.V. Puttappa (‘Kuvempu’).

Yakshagana

Ethnic Fingerprint The majority of the people in Karnataka are Kannadigas. The state also has a significant population of tribes such as the Tuluvas, Kodavas and Konkanis, as well as minor tribes like the Soligas, Yeravas and Todas. It also has the largest Tibetan settlement in southern India.

Toda hut. Photo: Wikipedia

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Kerala

God’s Own Country Capital: Thiruvananthapuram

How the land lies According to legend, Parasuram, an avatar of Lord Vishnu, threw his axe out into the sea, and the waters receded as far as it went, forming Kerala. Be that as it may, scientists say a sizeable part of this southern-most Indian state was at one time submerged.

Political Pressures

Info-bytes - This two-part documentary talks about the origins of Kathakali, and the enormous effort that goes into learning, preparing for and performing it (English subtitles included for parts that are spoken in Malayalam): http:// tinyurl.com/k9wa5gq (Part 1) and http://tinyurl.com/pxx72g4 (Part 2) - Learn to make aviyal, a traditional vegetarian dish from this state: http://tinyurl.com/kn6e9ug 60

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Kerala state was created in the post-Independence reorganisation in 1956, and a year later, made history by putting in power the world’s first elected Communist government. Today, the Left Democratic Front is one of the two main groups of parties which have been alternating in power in the state, the other being the United Democratic Front.

Ethnic Fingerprint Ancient Jewish and Arab traders established settlements here, and some intermarried with local people. The Apostle St. Thomas is believed to have come to Kerala to preach Christianity to the Jewish settlers, and converted some local people too, making Christianity in India as old as it is in Europe. The present-day Syrian Christian community in Kerala traces its origins to the families converted by St. Thomas.

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A Kathakali artiste putting on the elaborate make-up. Photo: Marlon Pieris, Canada

Past Glories

Photo: Yamini Vasudevan

As the land of spices, Kerala was on the world trade map as long ago as 3000 BC. Traders from Western Asia and Southern Europe carried on thriving business through bustling ports on the Malabar coast. Centuries later, the same spices brought the Portuguese to the region, and European colonisation began.

Tasty Treats Rice and coconut are staples in Kerala cuisine. Puttu – dampened rice flour interspersed with grated coconut, and traditionally steamed in tubes of bamboo, is a popular breakfast dish, while aviyal, a medley of vegetables in creamy coconut sauce, makes a satisfying accompaniment to rice. To get the full benefit of Kerala’s vegetarian cuisine, try the Onam sadhya or banquet – an array of 24 items or more, served on banana leaves.

Crafted with Care The Aranmula mirror is unique to Kerala. Made of an alloy, the composition of which is a closely guarded family secret, it is produced in a small village, and has been conferred the geographical indication (GI) tag. Handmade without glass or mercury, it gives a flawless reflection unmatched by many conventional mirrors.

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This state, with the highest Human Development Index and literacy rates in the country, has a rich cultural heritage.

Kathakali and Mohinattam, two of India’s classical dance forms, are from Kerala. Its martial art, Kalaripayattu, is believed to be among the world’s oldest. Many of its litterateurs and film makers have received international acclaim.

Kalaripayattu

Culture Quotient

Thrissur Pooram. Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Worshipfully Yours

Thrissur Pooram, an annual festival held at Vadakkunnathan Temple in Thrissur town, is a spectacle to behold! Key attractions include the parade of caparisoned elephants and the bursting of fireworks. The Ayyappa Temple at Sabarimala, perched amidst thick forests high in the Western Ghats, draws millions of devotees during the main November–January pilgrimage season, despite relative inaccessibility and mandatory austerities. Pilgrims address each other as ‘swami’, an acknowledgement of the principle of Tat Tvam Asi – ‘That thou art’ or God is within you.

Personality Plus

Sights to See

‘God’s Own Country’ was once ruled by a demon King! Mahabali, contrary to type, was as benevolent as he was wise. His reign was marked by peace, plenty and social equality. It was brought to an end by Lord Vishnu, in the avatar of Vamana, the dwarf. Mahabali was tricked into retiring to the netherworld, but Vishnu granted him the boon of visiting his beloved subjects once each year. The Onam festival, celebrated by Keralites the world over with feasts and much pomp, marks this annual visitation by Mahabali.

The National Geographic’s Traveller Magazine lists Kerala among 50 must-visit places. Its calm backwaters, lush paddy fields, swaying coconut palms and sinuous rivers are a treat for the eye.

It is also a stronghold of ayurveda, the indigenous system of medicine which works wonders on the jaded and the hassled.

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Madhya Pradesh

Heart of India Capital: Bhopal

How the land lies ‘Madhya’ means ‘middle’, and ‘Pradesh’ is ‘land’. By name and fact, Madhya Pradesh (MP for short) lies at the heart of India.

This landlocked state is the second largest in the country.

Political Pressures

Info-bytes - Explore the many facets of Madhya Pradesh from your armchair with this video: http://tinyurl.com/mljznno - Learn to make shami kebab like a professional, and amaze your guests at the next dinner: http://tinyurl.com/qdonems

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Madhya Pradesh had the distinction of being the biggest state in India till pressure for subdivision of some of the states to create new ones yielded results, and Madhya Pradesh’s southern part was hived off to form the state of Chhattisgarh in 2000.

Past Glories This part of India has seen many dynasties in power – the Moghuls, the Guptas, and the Mauryas all ruled here. It fell within the boundaries of the great Emperor Ashoka’s vast kingdom. Each of the dynasties left its distinctive mark on the architecture as well as on the culture and lifestyles of the region.

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Khajuraho. Photo: Avehi Menon

Sights to See The Bhimbetka group of caves is the repository of what is considered the largest collection of prehistoric art in India. They are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as is the Khajuraho group of temples, famous for their erotic sculptures. Sanchi, filled with Buddhist stupas, is another World Heritage Site in Madhya Pradesh.

Sanchi Stupa. Photos: Marina Marangos, Greece

Ethnic Fingerprint Crafted with Care Madhya Pradesh is well known for its textiles.

The handloom Chanderi and Maheshwari variety of silk are much sought after, and so is Kosa silk. Block-printing by hand and vegetable dyes are widely used in textiles produced here.

Maheswari textiles.

Photo: www.jaypore.com

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The Gonds, Bhils, Baigas, Korkus, Santias and Kols are some of the major tribes found in Madhya Pradesh. Tribes make up about 20 percent of the state’s population. Many are cultivators by tradition, and earn their living from the land, and crafts related to nature. Some, such as the Santias and Kols, are martial and skilled in traditional forms of warfare. Some tribes are still nomadic, but others are giving up customary practices influenced by modern ways of life.

Worshipfully Yours Started in 1949, the Aalmi Tablighi Ijtima (roughly translated as International Islamic Congregation) is an annual conference held at Bhopal. It is so well attended that over the years, the venue has had to be changed to accommodate more and more people. Held in December, the discussions are centred on Islamic principles and way of life, and on spreading peace.

Tasty Treats

Culture Quotient

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

The lip-smacking mutton Rogan josh was a recipe that evolved in the heart of India. So did the sheek kabab and the shami kabab. The bafla, or ghee-soaked wheat cakes, and the sabudana (pearl sago) kichdi are other famous dishes of Madhya Pradesh. If you have a taste for heady local brews, try the liquor distilled from the flowers of the Mahua tree.

Tribal dances such as the Gaur, an energetic hunting dance of the Gond tribe, mirroring the movements of the bison from which it takes its name, and the Lota dance, performed by women balancing full pitchers of water on their heads, are typical of this part of India. It is also noted for both classical and folk styles of music and musicians.

Rogan josh

Personality Plus The 16th century musician Tansen, one of the famous Nine Gems of Emperor Akbar’s court, hailed from this region. So powerful was Tansen’s musical ability that, legend has it, his rendition of the raaga Megh Malhar could bring showers of rain; when he sang in the raaga Deepak, lamps came alight! Gwalior, in Madhya Pradesh, hosts the much-looked-forward-to annual Tansen festival at the musician’s tomb.

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Maharashtra

As Reel As It Gets Capital: Mumbai

How the land lies This western Indian state is world famous for its capital, Mumbai – also known as the ‘financial capital’ of India and home of Bollywood, the Hindi film industry. Mumbai was earlier called Bombay. There are several other large cities in this highly urbanised state.

Political Pressures Many stalwarts of the Freedom Movement, such as Bal Gangadhar Tilak, Gopal Krishna Gokhale, Dadabhai Naoroji and Vinayak Damodar Savarkar, hailed from Maharashtra. The state, particularly Mumbai, was the venue of many a pivotal moment of the Freedom Movement.

Past Glories The area has long been prosperous. Even the seventh century Chinese explorer, Hiun Tsang, was impressed by its wealth. Satara, an ancient port town, was a busy centre of trade. Over the years, the region has been ruled by diverse dynasties, including the Vakatakas in early history, the Sultans of Delhi and the mighty Marathas.

The Gateway of India, a monument in South Mumbai, which was built during colonial rule, overlooks the Arabian Sea. Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

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Tasty Treats The tangy, spicy chaats of Maharashtra are the street foodie’s ticket to heaven! The vada pav (which some might christen an ‘Indian burger’) and dabeli are fun and filling. The Parsi impact is not least seen in the cuisine – akoori (a form of scrambled eggs) on toast makes a great breakfast. And try the Bombay Duck – don’t be fooled by the name! – a popular local fish. To round off, tuck into puran poli –a flatbread with a sweet stuffing, or shreekhand – a curd-based sweet. Modak (steamed dumplings) is another popular sweet, made during the festival of Ganesh Chathurthi.

Ethnic Fingerprint The Bhils, Warlis, the Gonds, Govaris and Korkus are some tribes native to different parts of Maharashtra. The Kolis were the original residents of the group of seven islands, which has now been merged into the landmass called Mumbai.

A member of the Koli tribe.

Photo: www.grassroutes.co.in Modak

Info-bytes - Gastronomes should brush up their list of must-eat foods before they visit Mumbai next. And here’s the place to start: http://tinyurl.com/pepd9s4 - Music and dance are an important element of Marathi life. Here is a clip of a traditional Marathi dance that brings together a peppy beat and graceful moves: http://tinyurl.com/l6f4gz6 - Get up to speed with the history of Mumbai – right from 600 BC! – with this short illustrated video: http://tinyurl.com/n7w7m7k - By the time Ganesh Chathurthi rolls around next, be readywith a plate of modaks to please the elephant-headed God! The video explains how to make this delicacy: http://tinyurl.com/kmxu94y 70

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Crafted with Care The unique paintings of the Warli tribe are world famous. One step more than stick drawings, they were originally done with ground rice paste on drab brown mud walls of huts.

The lively figures depict everyday scenes. Other trademark Maharashtrian handicrafts are Kolhapuri chappals and Paithani saris.

Warli tribe painting. Photo: Saritha Rao Rayachoti

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Sights to See The Ajanta, Ellora and Elephanta Caves, famed for their murals and sculptures, are World Heritage Sites. Hill stations like Lonavala, Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani are wonderful places where you literally ‘chill out’. In Mumbai, the stalls at Colaba, Chor Bazaar and Fashion Street sell everything and anything. For those with stars in their eyes, a visit to the Film City is a must. For a feel of the other side of the glitz and glamour, take a tour of Dharavi, one of Asia’s largest slums.

Photo: India Tourism Board

Worshipfully Yours Ganesh Chathurthi, the birthday of Lord Ganesha, is the biggest festival of the state. The whole of Maharashtra goes into celebration mode for up to 10 days! Localities compete to put up the most unique or largest idol of the elephant-headed God, vast amounts of his favourite modaks are made, and on the last day, streets resound with chants of ‘Ganapathi Bappa Moriya’ – Oh Lord Ganapathi, return to us next year!

Personality Plus Culture Quotient The state has contributed much to India’s repertoire of the arts. The lavni and povada are two popular genres of folk music, while the tamasha is a much-loved form of rural folk theatre. Playwrights such as Vijay Tendulkar have done modern theatre proud. And, of course, no description of the culture of the state would be complete without mention of the inimitable Bollywood style of cinema, music and dance.

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Shivaji is a name to reckon with in Maharashtra. A scion of the Maratha warrior clan, he won decisive battles against the Sultanate of Bijapur and later challenged the might of the Moghul Empire.

Stories about his valour are the stuff of legends! After his coronation in 1674, Shivaji introduced progressive concepts of good governance.

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Manipur

Jewel in the Crown Capital: Imphal

How the land lies Literally and figuratively a jewel of a state, Manipur lies in the northeast region. Mountains, valleys, forests, rivers and eye-catching flora and fauna make it breathtakingly beautiful. Interestingly, it wasn’t always called Manipur – it has been known by a number of names down the ages, chiefly Kangleipak and Meeteileipak. The state borders Myanmar on the east.

Political Pressures

Info-bytes - Explore the beauty of Manipur through this documentary: http:// tinyurl.com/pbpmm2b - This Manipuri dance performance depicts the Raslila (Dance of Divine Love), wherein Lord Krishna dances with the gopikas (female cowherds): http://tinyurl.com/loovosu

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The geographic location gave the region importance in World War II. It was the scene of many a hard-fought battle between the Allied forces led by Britain and Axis forces spearheaded by Japan.

In fact, the British check to the Japanese attempt to enter Imphal was one of the turning points of the War on the Eastern front.

Culture Quotient Manipur is the home of one of the classical dances of India – the graceful and stately Manipuri dance. The elegant costumes and stylised movements set it apart from other dance genres. Indira Gandhi, the former Prime Minister of India, had learnt – and had been greatly interested in – the art form while she was a student at Shantiniketan in West Bengal.

Manipuri dance. Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

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Ngri. Photo: Kundo

Tasty Treats Manipuri cuisine makes use of many herbs and roots that are endemic to this region, making it distinct from the food in many other parts of India. Fish is a staple, in many forms – dried, fried and curried. Ngri, a fermented fish dish, is a particular favourite.

Siroi lily and (top) the Sangai deer.

Photo: www.kanglaonline.com

Sights to See Do make an effort to catch a glimpse of the Sangai, a rare species of deer found only here, and the Siroi lily, which grows only on the slopes of the Siroi Hills in the state. On a more sombre note, pay your respects at the War Cemetery maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, commemorating the brave soldiers of the British and Indian armies who lost their lives in World War II.

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Personality Plus Major Ralengnao ‘Bob’ Khathing of Manipur was a young King’s Commission Officer of the Indian Army during World War II. His service earned him the coveted Military Cross and Member of the British Empire awards.

Years later, he became India’s Ambassador to Myanmar (then Burma), the first person of tribal origin to be given such a post. In recognition of his contributions to the country, he was conferred the Padma Shree in 1957.

Past Glories The Meetei Mayek, as the Manipuri script is known, has a hoary past. It is believed to have been in existence for around – hold your breath – four millennia! The script currently in use is a modification of the original one, incorporating characters for some sounds not represented earlier being one of the main amendments.

Crafted with Care Basket weaving is practised across the state, thanks to the abundant availability of cane and bamboo. There are specific baskets for various purposes.

Wedding ceremonies call for special types and last rites require a different kind, for example.

Pottery is another wide-spread craft – the appealing products come in red, dark red and black.

Ethnic Fingerprint There are many tribes in Manipur. The Meitei, Naga and Kuki are some of them. They speak different languages or dialects, and have distinct customs; they practice different faiths – Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Buddhism and Sanamahism and folk religions; but they all live together in harmony.

Worshipfully Yours Sanamahism is a local religion which goes back to ancient times. Many local deities are still ardently worshipped. At Moirang, close to Imphal, the temple to Lord Thangjing, an ancient deity, is very popular. The Moirang Lai Haraoba, the annual festival at the temple, is a crowd-puller.

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Meghalaya

Abode of Clouds Capital: Shillong How the land lies Located in the eastern sub-Himalayas, the state is named Meghalaya – the abode of clouds. True to its name, it is almost always under cloud cover. At Cherrapunji, quite close to the capital Shillong, the average annual rainfall goes up to 12,000 mm, making it the wettest place on earth. Nearby Mawsynram has been giving it stiff competition for the title of late. Part of Meghalaya borders Bangladesh.

Political Pressures Meghalaya was carved out of Assam, and was conferred statehood on January 21, 1972. English is the official language of the state.

Sights to See Soak in the medicinal hot springs at Jakrem, swap stories about the ‘one that got away’ at Ranikor – an angler’s delight, and revel in the beauty of exotic orchids in the forests of Mawsmi, Mawmluh and Sohraim. For those who want some adventure, try the increasingly popular cave exploration treks.

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

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The Monolith Festival of the Khasi tribe brings together the different kingdoms and showcases their culture.

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Ethnic Fingerprint The Khasis, Jaintias and Garos are the main tribes, the original inhabitants of the region. They are believed to be of either Mon-Khmer (Cambodian) or Tibeto-Burmese origin. Each tribe established its own kingdom. Even after a treaty was signed with the British during the Colonial rule, the tribes continued to live in comparative seclusion.

Khasi market place. Photo: Amish Shah (www.footloosegypsy.in)

Patricia Mary Mukhim is a woman of substance. Social activist, teacher, writer, journalist – she wears many caps. Her areas of interest include consumer rights, conflict management, gender sensitisation and campaigning against drug addiction. She has won several awards, including the Chameli Devi Award for outstanding women journalists, and the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry’s FICCI Ladies Organisation (FLO) award. The biggest feather in her cap was added when she was awarded the Padma Shri, one of the highest civilian honours given by the Government of India.

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Crafted with Care Weaving is a major occupation, and cotton and silk textiles woven in the state are much sought after. The ‘Khasi lock’, a special type of lock, is a unique product, but, sadly, only a few locksmiths in a few villages still practice the indigenous craft. Wood carving and basketry are other handicrafts that the state is known for.

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Personality Plus

Past Glories There is archeological evidence of human settlements in this region since the Neolithic era. In fact, the jhum (slash and burn/ shifting type) form of agriculture associated with Neolithic times is still practised here, endangering biodiversity. The region is also significant in the context of the history of the human race because of its possible role in the domestication of rice.

Worshipfully Yours The Mawjinbuim cave, about 55 km from Shillong, is famous for its stalagmite, which is shaped like a Shiva lingam, and is revered by Hindus. It is considered particularly holy by the Jantia tribe. Thousands of tribesmen gather here to celebrate Shivaratri, the festival associated with Lord Shiva – part of the main triumvirate in the Hindu pantheon of Gods.

Culture Quotient

A man playing the duitara. Photo: The Khasi Heritage Conservation Forum

Dance is integral to life in Meghalaya, particularly of the Khasi tribe. Dance is associated with the milestones of human life, as well as the cycle of nature. Distinctive forms of music, such as the phawar, and instruments such as the shaw shaw (cymbals) and the duitara (a stringed instrument) make music special in Meghalaya.

Tasty Treats Jadoh, Meghalaya’s answer to the biryani, is made with rice and pork – and is a delight for the taste buds.

Another favourite porkbased dish is made using locally available mushrooms and black sesame seeds.

The nakham bitchi, a sort of soup, cuts the heaviness of the food. And those who have the head for it can round off the meal with kyat, a local brew.

Jadoh. Photo: www.ammajirecipes.blogspot.com

Info-bytes - Add a touch of exotica to your dinner table with dakhleh, a pork salad made with chillies and spices, from Meghalaya: http://tinyurl.com/k7tv3uu - Get a bird’s eye view of the many wonders of Meghalaya – right from your armchair! All you need to do is click this link: http://tinyurl.com/knfch4r

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Mizoram

Where the Hills Are Alive Capital: Aizawl

How the land lies The name of the state translates to ‘Land of the Hill People’ – and Mizoram, in the Northeast, is just that. It shares its borders with two other countries – Bangladesh and Myanmar. Aizawl, the capital, is perched at a super-high 4,000 feet above sea level.

Political Pressures

Info-bytes - Travel buffs should see this video – it tells you of exotic locations in Mizoram and gives you a visual taste of local culture: http://tinyurl.com/ls29h72 - The Cheraw or ‘bamboo’ dance is one where the dancers have to hop between bamboo poles that are constantly being shifted – quite a task, since the dancers have to be in sync with the music and each other’s steps: http://tinyurl.com/ktmf9l2

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At one time, each of the collection of villages in the region functioned as a small state in itself, and was under the dynastic rule of chieftains.

Post Independence, Mizoram was carved out of Assam. It was declared a state in 1986, and the process was formalised the following year.

Culture Quotient If you want to shake a leg, Mizoram, with its share of energetic, colourful numbers, might be the right place. The Cheraw tests the performers’ nimbleness like no other. Women have to step between and out of pairs of bamboo poles held almost at ground level and closed and pulled apart by men in time to rhythmic music.

Cheraw dance. Photo: www.damudrre.blogspot.in

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Tasty Treats Mizo (not to be confused with ‘miso’, a Japanese seasoning) cuisine makes use of a lot of vegetables, but meat or poultry is added to most vegetable dishes.

Vawksa, a type of smoked pork, is very popular here.

And so is wine made from the Labrusca grapes.

Vawksa. Photo: www.hnamte.blogspot.in

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Ethnic Fingerprint

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As much as 95 percent of the people of Mizoram are of tribal origin, making it the Indian state with the highest concentration of tribal population.

Lushais, Kukis, Pawis, Raltes and Himars are some of the tribes.

They are believed to be descendants of settlers from Southeast Asia.

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Worshipfully Yours Christianity is the predominant religion of the state, and Christmas is a major event. Music runs in the veins of the Mizos, and the choirs of this state are famous – they sing traditional English carols and hymns as well as songs composed in the local language, set to traditional tunes. Young people who go to other states to study or work form their own choirs, which are much sought after at Christmas time and at music festivals.

Sights to See This scenic state abounds in breathtaking waterfalls, serene lakes, forested mountains, mysterious caves and memorial stones. Relax at the Champhai Resort close to the Myanmar border, or make one of the many government tourist lodges your base while you take in the natural beauty around.

And if you plan your visit in March, you can catch the amazing Chapchar Kut Spring Festival. However, note that visitors, even domestic ones, to Mizoram need an ‘inner line permit’.

(For more details, refer to http://www. mizoram.nic.in/more/entry.htm) Champhai. India Tourism Board

Crafted with Care

Past Glories

Weaving is a traditional craft, and the intricate designs that the women produce on their looms have been handed down from generation to generation. If there’s one item that is typically from Mizoram, it’s the khum-beu – a ceremonial hat woven out of cane and lined with smoked Hnahthial leaves. Amazingly, these hats are completely waterproof !

A group of people from various tribes in Mizoram believe they are Bnei Menashe, the sons of Menasseh, one of the 10 ‘lost’ tribes of Israel. (These tribes were believed to have been captured by the Assyrians and later dispersed.) A significant number have migrated to Israel and integrated with the Jewish culture.

Best compliments from

Personality Plus He was an Englishman, but the Mizos considered him special – special enough to give him a local name and erect a memorial stone for him. He was Capt. T.H. Lewin, District Commissioner of the Chittagong Hill Tracts. His nine-year sojourn in the region earned him the sobriquet ‘Thangliana’ which means ‘greatly famous’. Capt. Lewin wrote the first Lushai book.

Pegasus Travels And Tours Pvt Ltd., 1-A Dev Apts, 4/16 First Main Road, Kasturba Nagar, Adyar, Chennai-20 Ph 044 24401526/27/28. Direct 044 42187311 29 indias : one nation 85

Nagaland

‘Switzerland’ of the East Capital: Kohima

How the land lies Nagaland is among the smallest states in the country, and one of the ‘seven sisters’ as the northeastern states are collectively known. It is sometimes called ‘Switzerland of the East’ because of its salubrious climate.

Political Pressures After Independence, the area was a part of the larger state of Assam. It was first declared a Union Territory, and later, in 1963, was granted full-fledged statehood.

Info-bytes - This documentary succintly captures the history and culture of Nagaland in an attractive visual form. In particular, it covers the colourful Hornbill Festival, which is regarded as a must-see event: http://tinyurl.com/kypukz4 - Watch the Tetseo Sisters sing a soothing melody from their native repertoire in full traditional attire: http://tinyurl.com/jvk7ozv 86

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Past Glories The Naga villages of the past are good examples of self-reliance and democracy. Each village, made up of two or more clans, was responsible for its own social and economic well-being. Adding a gory touch to the glory in the past was the practice of head-hunting – a rite of passage for young men. The first head a youth took propelled him into manhood, and the more he collected, the higher he rated in valour!

Personality Plus Mercy, Azi, Kuku and Lulu Tetseo, known as the ‘Tetseo Sisters’, are cultural ambassadors for their state and country. The quartet sings in the local dialect. Their repertoire is based on Li, the traditional folk songs of their region, songs that have been handed down over the years. The repetitive ‘Hiyohiyohey’ is characteristic of their songs.

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Ethnic Fingerprint Nagaland is home to 16 major tribes, plus numerous subtribes! Each tribe has a distinct identity – the clothes, customs, even the languages differ from each other.

Culture Quotient

Photo: Praveen Emmanuel

Music, vocal and instrumental, is woven inextricably into the lives of the tribes. They sing of many things – heroic deeds, battles lost and won, love and heartbreak, and Gospel songs. Whether the tunes are traditional or modern, the songs are soul-stirring. Stringed instruments called petu and theku are commonly used. Dance is equally a part of life, but unlike in other regions is performed here almost exclusively by men.

Crafted with Care The tribes practise traditional crafts like basketry, pottery, wood carving and bead work. In an interesting blend of past and present, many young Nagas are using traditional textile designs that have been handed down from their ancestors, in modern clothing, to make fashion statements that are much appreciated by the discerning.

Sights to See The Kisama Heritage Village, just 10 kilometres from Kohima, is virtually an open-air museum. Visitors can view a variety of traditional Naga homes and morungs (bachelor dormitories), with typical furniture and accessories. It is also the venue of the famous Hornbill Festival – an annual cultural and sports meet of the Naga tribes, held in the first week of December.

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Naga tribal woman and (right) man. Photo: Praveen Emmanuel

Tasty Treats Rice is the staple food of all the tribes. It is accompanied by meat, fish and boiled vegetables.

Much of the meat is smoked, traditionally over the open kitchen fire. Chilli sauces that accompany the meals pack a real punch. There are numerous versions of these sauces, so keep some water handy!The ghost chillies, the hottest in the world, that grow here make the tears flow freely.

Meat smoked over the kitchen fire.

Photo: Praveen Emmanuel

Worshipfully Yours Christianity is the dominant religion, and there are many churches here, particularly belonging to the Baptist denomination.

Religion aside, the Church played a big role in brokering peace between militant Nagas and the Indian Government in the 1960s. It was at a Nagaland Baptist Church Convention that a decision cutting across political beliefs of individuals and spearheaded by local Christian leaders like Reverend Longri Ao, was taken, to establish a Peace Mission. Senior politicians like Jayaprakash Narayan and B.P. Chaliha, and Michael Scott, an Anglican churchman, took part in the pivotal Mission.

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Odisha

Land of Temples Capital: Bhubaneshwar

How the land lies Located in eastern India, this state was formerly known as ‘Orissa’. Its coast hugs the Bay of Bengal, and in the hinterland lie rolling hills and lush plains, drained by major rivers.

Political Pressures Info-bytes - Watch a mesmerising Odissi performance, amd observe how different steps and movements come together in a fluid, graceful dance: http://tinyurl.com/qane6hs - Explore the intricate detailing that is a hallmark of the Sun Temple in Odisha: http://tinyurl.com/lb6xxtj - Gastronomes, take note. Rocky and Mayur, television’s favourite foodies, give you a rundown on the best food that is to be had in this state: http://tinyurl.com/lhma2sz 90

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History changed direction when the iconic Emperor Ashoka did battle with the region’s Kalinga Kingdom. The courageous resistance put up by the coastal realm left such a trail of devastation that it caused the Emperor to turn away from warfare, to the non-violent teachings of the Buddha.

And from that turning point, Buddhism spread throughout Asia.

Ethnic Fingerprint The earliest human settlers here were primitive hill tribes. The Saora tribe, in particular, finds a mention in the great ancient Indian epic Mahabharata. Members of the tribe can still be found across the state.

Past Glories This area was, at various times, under the control of some of the most powerful dynasties of the subcontinent. Great monarchs, such as Kharavela, Samudragupta, Jajati Kesari and Raja Raja Chola, have left their mark here. Pushpagiri, a Buddhist centre of learning, ranked with other ancient institutions of international repute like Takshila and Nalanda, flourished here roughly between the third and 11th centuries.

Gateway to Buddhism. Photo: Samir Mody

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Sights to See

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Known as the ‘land of temples’, Odisha offers a feast for the devout as well as the archaeology buff. The Sun Temple at Konark is world famous.

The Ambika Temple set against the backdrop of thick forests and thundering waterfalls and the Ghanteshwari Temple, where the preferred offering to the deity is a bell, are off the beaten track.

Tasty Treats Fluffy white, sugar-syrup-soaked rasagollas and the ubiquitous kheer (rice pudding) took form here around 2,000 years ago! Legend goes that the rasagolla was invented to appease Goddess Mahalakhsmi, but the claim is hotly disputed by West Bengal, with which the milk sweet is better associated. Rival claims apart, cooks from the Odisha region were much sought after in neighbouring areas, including Bengal, in times past.

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Personality Plus Tulasi Munda, a tribal girl, was uneducated until, at the age of 12, she went to work in the mining village of Serenda. She earned a meagre Rs. 2 from cutting stones and sifting iron from waste. In her free time, she taught herself the alphabet. There was no turning back. She came in contact with social workers like Malti Chaudhary and Nirmala Deshpande, and social reformer Vinoba Bhave. Inspired, she set up an evening school for tribal children at Serenda in 1964, and many more since then – liberating youngsters from a lifetime of illiteracy and labour.

Worshipfully Yours The Jagannath Temple at Puri is a very sacred spot. The ‘Rath Yatra’ or Car Festival there is famous, not least for generating the English word ‘juggernaut’. The kitchen at this temple is said to be the largest in the world, with over a 1,000 chefs working to feed huge crowds of devotees each day.

Crafted with Care

Photo: Ranjan Kumar Ganguly

It is believed that the art of sand sculpture originated here. The first such sculpture is said to have been made way back in the 14th century. Sudarshan Patnaik, the best-known exponent of the art in India, has won national and international acclaim. His Golden Sand Art Institute at Puri trains those who are interested.

Culture Quotient Odissi, a classical dance form of India, which originated in this region, is also the oldest surviving genre in the country. The grammar, music, costume and jewellery of the dance form are distinctive. Folk dances, such as the Ghumura, Chhau and Dalkhai are also popular.

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The Golden Temple at Amritsar. Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

Punjab

Land of Five Rivers Capital: Chandigarh

Culture Quotient

How the land lies This northwestern state shares a border with Pakistan, and with other Indian states. The capital, Chandigarh, a Union Territory, is also the capital of neighbouring Haryana. The name, which it incidentally shares with a province in Pakistan, means ‘land of five rivers’.

The dance and music of Punjab mirror the energy that flows through the state. The bhangra, a folk dance performed during the harvest season, has now become famous worldwide, thanks to Sikh diaspora in the United Kingdom, United States, Canada and other places. The steps of the dance are stylised representations of farming activities and deeprooted in the primarily agrarian life of the state.

Worshipfully Yours The Golden Temple, named for the gold that covers its dome, is world-renowned as a pilgrimage spot for Sikhs. It is also said to draw more tourists than even the Taj Mahal! Less known but significant is the Guru di Maseet, a mosque which one of the Sikh Gurus had built at Hargobindpur. The complex also houses a temple and a Gurudwara – a fine testimony to communal harmony.

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Tasty Treats Many dishes which the world associates with India originated in this northwestern corner. Makki di roti – flat bread made from corn flour, and sarson da saag – a gravy made from mustard leaves, are said to be a ‘must-have’ combination. There are other delicacies in store as well: Palak paneer – a dish of cottage cheese and spinach and tandoori chicken are just two. Tandoori cooking is a Punjabi speciality, and the tandoor ovens here are traditionally bell-shaped.

Makki di roti and sarson da saag. Photo: Ravi Dhingra

Crafted with Care

Personality Plus

For those with a footwear fetish, Punjab is paradise! Traditional embroidered juttis (shoes) come in many varieties. The tilla jutti with curling tips are hand-stitched with silver or golden wire. Juttis from Abohar are embellished with appliqué work, beads or cutwork, while those from Malerkotla are embroidered even on the insoles.

Born Sampooran Singh Kalra, he’s better known by his penname ‘Gulzar’. He’s a man of many parts – poet, author, lyricist, screenplay writer, film director and producer. Apart from lending his talents to many Bollywood films, Gulzar won an Oscar for Best Original Song for his ‘Jai Ho’ (music

by A.R. Rahman) in Danny Boyle’s Slumdog Millionnaire.

The same song won him and Rahman a Grammy too. Gulzar is a recipient of the Padma Bhushan, the Government of India’s third highest civilian honour.

Info-bytes - The fast-paced music and dance steps in this bhangra performance will have you jumping up and joining in! http://tinyurl.com/lgookb2 - Traditional favourites makki di roti and sarson da saag are given a modern twist in this recipe. (Ingredients and method of preparation are listed in English at the start of the video): http://tinyurl.com/k3dwzam - Train to Pakistan, a novel by famed author, the late Khushwant Singh (published in 1956), captured the horrors of Partition – especially the trauma suffered by the people of the Punjab. Read the original novel (which has been translated into English) for a better understanding on the impact Partition had on the country.

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Sights to See The flag-lowering ceremony held on both sides of the Indo-Pak border at Wagah at sunset each day is a unique experience. Another mustsee is a slightly crumbling brick throne at one end of a water tank at Kalanaur.

On it, a 13-year-old boy was crowned Emperor of Hindustan in 1556. The boy’s name was Akbar – he went on to become the greatest Moghul ruler of India.

The change of guards at Wagah Border

Ethnic Fingerprint Founded by Guru Nanak, Sikhism flourished under the stewardship of his nine successors, also called Gurus (teacher/leader). Today there are over 20 million Sikhs worldwide and the religion is ranked as the world’s fifth largest. The orthodox Sikh sports five physical representations of his faith – the Kara or steel bracelet, Kesh (uncut hair), Kangha (wooden comb), Kaccha (cotton drawstring boxer shorts) and Kirpan (ceremonial sword).

Political Pressures The original Punjab province under British rule had a sizeable number of Hindus and Sikhs, as well as a Muslim majority. After the partition of India in 1947, large numbers of Sikhs and Hindus who found themselves in Pakistan migrated to India while Muslims on the Indian side who wanted to be part of Pakistan went the other way. A further partition on linguistic lines hived off Himachal Pradesh and Haryana. Punjab is the only state with a Sikh majority.

Past Glories

Photo: Aling Jouve, France

It was in this region that the famed Indus Valley Civilisation flourished. The ancient Greeks called the area Pentapotamia, or the ‘delta of five rivers’.

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Rajasthan

Call of the Dunes Capital: Jaipur

How the Land lies Area-wise, it is India’s largest state. Rajasthan shares a border with Pakistan, apart from being bounded by other northern Indian states. The Thar Desert is a part of Rajasthan.

Info-bytes - The Kalbeliya dance is a mix of cheery music and graceful moves – you might find your feet tapping of their own accord! Fashionistas, do note the intricate costume and silver jewellery that adorn the dancers: http://tinyurl.com/o2o4ox8 - Can’t wait to get to Rajasthan? Until your flight takes off, you could satiate your longing by taking a whirlwind tour of the state through this video: http://tinyurl.com/qyg3ntk

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Political Pressures The Rajput warrior dynasty, to which famous rulers such as Rana Uday Singh, Rana Pratap and Prithviraj Chauhan belong, dominated this region in ages past, and their lineage is where the name ‘Rajasthan’ comes from.

Past Glories This is Indus Valley Civilisation country.

Present-day Kalibangan was once a major provincial capital of this ancient culture.

Photo: Tineke Sysmans, Belgium

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Sights to See

Ranthambore Wildlife Sanctuary. Photo: Elaine Wood, Australia

Forts, palaces, wildlife sanctuaries, festivals galore – you can’t be bored in Rajasthan! Ranthambore and Sariska sanctuaries offer the best chance of spotting India’s national animal, the majestic tiger. The Camel Fair and the Pushkar Fair are not-to-be-missed events of ethnic colour and culture.

The Hava Mahal (wind palace), the Lake Palace and the Amber Fort are just three of many former royal residences that have been turned into museums.

Visitors can also get a taste of the royal lifestyle at several erstwhile palaces which have been converted into hotels.

Tasty Treats

Dal-bhaati-churma.

Photo: www.priyaeasyntastyrecipes.blogspot.in

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The cuisine is traditionally largely vegetarian, though the warrior clans enjoyed hunting and the game was cooked in a variety of mouthwatering ways by the khansamas (royal cooks).

Sweets are highly popular and are, interestingly, customarily served before a meal, not as a dessert.

Try the dal-bhaati-churma, available all over the state, for an authentic taste of Rajasthan.

Culture Quotient Being a land of warrior kings, valour is a given as a theme of folk songs here. So are love and piety. As for dance, the Kalbelia is one that has gained international recognition.

Photo: Ben Bowling, USA

Personality Plus

Chittorgarth. Photo: Amore Marcello

Precocious little Meera asked her mother who her bridegroom would be; legend has it that her mother pointed to an idol of Lord Krishna. The child accepted that as fact and she gave her heart to Krishna. Though the 16th century Rajput princess was married off to the ruler of a principality, Meera’s mind remained wedded to Krishna. From her devotion, overlaid with the strain of pressure to conform to temporal norms, sprang some of the most passionate spiritual hymns in the Hindu repertoire. Meera Bai is the epitome of complete surrender to the Lord, and longing for oneness with him.

Crafted with Care

Worshipfully Yours

Colour has high priority in Rajasthan. Bandhini (tie-and-dye) designs embellish a majority of its textiles and cloth-based products.

Semi-precious stones, enamelled jewellery and block prints are other prominent ways of adding splashes of brightness to the background of desert sands. The unique blue pottery from Jaipur makes a lovely souvenir.

The Bishnois follow a religion exclusively based on nature. The founder, Lord Jhambheshwar, was born into a Rajput family, but eschewed hunting and violence and instead developed an affinity with all things living. He dictated a 29-point belief system from which the community takes its name (‘bees’ is 20, ‘noi’ is 9). The basis is compassion for life in all forms. The votaries of the religion that took root over 500 years ago are ready to give their lives to protect nature, be it trees, the endangered blackbuck or the chinkara. In Bishnoi villages, the vulture co-exists with the partridge and the black buck roams confidently.

Some Bishnoi temples double up as sanctuaries for injured animals.

Ethnic Fingerprint The bow-and-arrow-wielding Bhils in Rajasthan are among the oldest tribes to inhabit the subcontinent. The state is home to a variety of other tribes too – ranging from the nomadic Gadia Lohar, Banjara and Kathodi, to the cattle-breeding Rabaris. Among the distinct ethnic groups in the region is the Bohra community, a group of Shiaite Muslims.

Photo: Jennifer C. Steele

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Sikkim

Where Rhododendrons Bloom Capital: Gangtok

How the land lies In terms of population, Sikkim comes last among Indian states, but has 11 official languages! This landlocked Himalayan state, second smallest in terms of area, rubs shoulders with Nepal, Bhutan and China’s Tibet Autonomous Region. The world’s third tallest peak, the Kanchenjunga, lies on its border with Nepal.

Political Pressures

Info-bytes - This clip captures all the colours and grace of the masked dance, a traditional favourite among tourists who visit Sikkim: http://tinyurl.com/mltkkfn - For a snapshot of Sikkim, watch this brief documentary (less than 6 minutes long), made by famed filmmaker Satyajit Ray in 1971: http://tinyurl.com/ohnpky8 102

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Phuntsog Namgyal was the founder of Sikkim’s monarchy.

He was crowned in 1642 as the priest-king or Chogyal.

Subsequently, Nepal’s invasion of Sikkim brought the British into the reckoning, and resulted in the Gurkha War of 1814. Still later, in 1975, the then Prime Minister of Sikkim requested the Indian Parliament to let the country join the Indian Union, and, after a referendum, Sikkim became the 22nd Indian state.

Past Glories The area was called ‘Nye-mae-el,’ meaning ‘Paradise’ or ‘Heaven’. The original Chogyal’s domains were vast, and covered Kalimpong and parts of Bhutan.

Worshipfully Yours

Enchey Monastery. Photo: Yana Fetova, Ukraine

The state is justly famous for monasteries.

There are close to 200 of them. Red-clad lamas, flickering butter lamps and soft, melodious chanting are part of the ambience – which is sure to bring on a sense of calm and harmony. The Pemayangtse, Dubdi and Rumtek Monasteries are among the more famous. For an offbeat religious experience, trek to the Old Cave of God’s Hill to get the blessing of the local deity – it is believed to be one of the holiest spots in Sikkim.

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Rhododendrons in bloom. Photo: Amish Shah/www.footloosegypsy.in

Members of the Lepcha tribe.

Photo: www.tribesofsikkim.blogspot.in

Ethnic Fingerprint Photo: Abhijit Gupta/www.idrinkmyteasweet.wordpress.com

Sights to See Go paragliding or mountain biking, take a cable car ride over Gangtok, go river rafting in the Teesta or ride a Yak on the banks of the Tsomgo Lake nestled amidst awe-inspiring mountain slopes 12,400 ft above sea level. Be sure to pack your binoculars if you’re a bird lover. Nature lovers – everyone, actually – should try and visit the Varsey or Singba Rhododendron Sanctuaries to see the state flower of Sikkim in bloom.

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The Lepchas, known for their skill in archery, are believed to be the first inhabitants of Sikkim. The Bhutias are another native race.

For centuries, people from Nepal moved into this region, and now Sikkim is the only state to have an ethnic Nepali majority.

Culture Quotient Culture-vultures should try and watch the masked dances of Sikkim – for they are spectacular! The dances are mostly performed by lamas in celebration of the Buddhist festivals and to usher in prosperity. Dancers in colourful costumes and elaborate masks dance to the rhythm of drums and cymbals, sporting ceremonial swords and eye-catching jewellery. The most famous performances are the ones in the courtyard of the Pemayangtse monastery.

Crafted with Care Thangkas or scroll paintings of scenes from Buddha's life are specialties of the state. So are small wooden tables decorated with intricate designs. If you’re looking for something ‘funky’, go for the cups with lids, painted with ethnic motifs, available in local markets. Aside from handicrafts, Sikkim is well on the way to establishing 100% organic cultivation. So, look for some organic produce to take back with you.

Personality Plus Baichung Bhutia is perhaps India’s bestknown footballer in the international scene. A striker, he became the first Indian footballer to sign a contract with a European club when he joined Bury in 1999.

A recipient of the Government of India’s Padma Shri and Arjuna Awards, Baichung is also India’s most capped player. His skill at shooting the ball earned him the nickname ‘Sikkimese Sniper’.

Tasty Treats Food here can be broadly divided into the fermented and non-fermented.

The fermentation process is used more or less as a method of preserving perishable vegetable products for use out of season. Kinema is made of fermented soya beans. Sisnoo is a nettle soup. And tongba is to Sikkim what feni is to Goa – made from whole millets, this local brew is very popular.

Tongba

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Tamil Nadu

The Southern Belle Capital: Chennai

How the land lies Culture Quotient This is the birthplace of Bharatanatyam, the best-known classical dance of India.

The striking costumes and stylised movements, the sheer poetry of the dance have wowed the world.

Folk dances like the realistically costumed Mayil Attam (peacock dance), and the Poikaal Kuthirai (dummy horse dance) are hugely popular. Folk theatre is a big draw and so are folk music and storytelling performances. Tamil Nadu is also a major centre of Carnatic music, a genre of classical Indian music native to the south.

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One of the southern states of India, Tamil Nadu’s neighbours are Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh, and the Union Territory of Pondicherry. It hugs the Bay of Bengal, and the southern-most point on the Indian mainland – Kanyakumari – falls within its borders. It’s just a hop, skip and jump away from Sri Lanka.

Political Pressures The genesis of the British Raj was here. The jurisdiction of the Fort St. George built by the British East India Company gradually expanded until almost the entire subcontinent came under British dominion. The region was part of the larger Madras Presidency. After Independence, it was known as Madras State. Subsequently, it was renamed Tamil Nadu but the capital city retained the name Madras (now Chennai).

A Tamil bride. Photo: Ben Bowling, USA

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Past Glories

Personality Plus Subramanya Bharati is very dear to the hearts of the people of Tamil Nadu. An outstanding freedom fighter himself, it was his poems that fired patriotism and nationalistic spirit during the Independence struggle in this part of the world. His poems, on religious, social and political themes, continue to find relevance today, nearly a century after his death, in both classical and film music.

This was the land over which three great dynasties – the Cholas, the Pallavas and the Pandyas – held sway between the 1st and 13th centuries. Names of rulers such as Mahendravarman, Raja Raja Chola and Kulasekharan still command awe and respect. Many footprints these dynasties left, in the shape of art, architecture and literature, still exist. The Kallanai Dam over the river Cauvery, for example, built during the 1st century, to divert water to irrigate the fertile delta region, stands strong even now.

Ethnic Fingerprint Much of the indigenous population here trace their roots to the Dravidians, believed to be the original inhabitants of the Indus Valley region, who, for some reason or the other, were pushed southward. Tribes who call this region home include the Todas of the Nilgiris, the Irulas, known for their snake-catching skills, the Badagas, Kotas and Kurumbas.

Sights to See Temples, churches and mosques, beaches and hill stations, wildlife sanctuaries and museums – Tamil Nadu has a lot to keep you occupied.

Don’t forget to take a trip on the Niligiri Toy Train, collect sand of different colours from the Kanyakumari beach, where the Indian Ocean, the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea meet, and catch your breath as you gaze at the Arjuna’s Penance, the bas-relief sculpture at Mamallapuram.

Tasty Treats Various ethnic groups have specialty cuisine, such as the Chettiars, for example. Their food is redolent with garlic, pepper and fennel seeds. There are dishes associated with places too, like the Ambur biryani, Tirunelveli halwa and Kumbakonam ‘degree’ coffee. Sakkarai pongal, a rice-and-lentil preparation sweetened with jaggery and garnished with ghee and cashewnuts, is a favourite festival dish.

Sakkarai pongal. Photo: Nitya Prakash

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Brihadeeshwara Temple. Photo: Incredible India

The Brihadeeshwara Temple stands tall in Thanjavur a thousand years after the legendary Raja Raja Chola commissioned it. A World Heritage Site, the engineering skills that went into it continue to astound architects and archaeologists. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it is an important point on the temple circuit. In addition, it is a record of history in stone – numerous inscriptions provide glimpses into life in the Chola times.

Info-bytes - Explore the many facets of this enchanting land through this video: http://tinyurl.com/kpudhb2 - Bharatanatyam was originally an art form practised by devadasis (temple dancers).

Back then, it was known as Sadir, and was not adopted on a wide scale as it was regarded as a means to satisfy male patrons.

The art form was revived and given a respectable status in the 19th century by activists and artistes. Learn more about the evolution of this art form and its underlying tenets: http://tinyurl.com/kjzu4xr - Crispy vadas, made from lentils, make for an excellent snack and even as part of a South Indian breakfast: http://tinyurl.com/ln6uklt

Crafted with Care The GI-protected hand-woven silk saris from Kancheepuram have distinctive colour combinations and motifs in gold lace or thread.

Graceful bronze idols and decorative wall hangings make good souvenirs.

So do ornate Tanjore (Thanjavur) paintings depicting deities, embellished with semiprecious stones and gold leaf. Dolls made usually of terracotta or plaster of Paris and assembled so that the merest tap sets them ‘dancing’ are also a speciality of Thanjavur.

Thanjavur ‘dancing’ doll

Worshipfully Yours

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Telangana

Land of the Koh-i-noor Capital: Hyderabad How the land lies The baby in the Indian family, Telangana is encircled by five other states. Its borders encompass much of the catchment areas of two major rivers – the Krishna and the Godavari. Hyderabad has been designated its capital, but will double up as the capital of Andhra Pradesh too, for up to 10 years.

Political Pressures The area, originally under the Nizam of Hyderabad, became a part of the larger state of Andhra Pradesh post-Independence, but over the years, there has been a concerted call for an identity of its own. The goal was finally achieved when it became the 29th state of the Indian Union in June 2014.

Ethnic Fingerprint

- Did you know that the town of Pochampally, now famous for it saris, was once renowned for bangle making? http://tinyurl.com/mg8ry93 l - The Perini Shiva Thandavam, a traditional warrior dance, is said to have originated in the 11th century. Watch this video for a glimpse of this vibrant art form: http://tinyurl.com/pddv6r3 - Learn to make steamed idlis from bajra (a variety of millets). This dish is tasty, and takes the ‘cake’ in terms of being a healthy breakfast choice: http://tinyurl.com/klsdzd5

Crafted with Care

Photo: Saurabh Chatterjee (www.siaphotography.in)

Info-bytes

The Chenchus are a tribe native to this part of India. Members of this aboriginal tribe are still largely forest dwellers and good hunters. They are found mainly in the Nallamala Hill area.

Pochampally saris, with their distinctive geometric weave, were named after the cluster of villages where they originated, and have the GI stamp. Another craft of the state also bears the name of its place of origin – Nirmal paintings, which are made with organic colours.

Pochampally sari.

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Worshipfully Yours

Photo: Wikipedia

One of the largest mosques in India, Hyderabad’s Mecca Masjid derives its name from the bricks used in the construction of the central arch of the mosque – they are said to be made from clay brought from Mecca. The massive edifice is also patterned on the Big Mosque at Mecca and can accommodate around 10,000 worshippers. Construction was completed by the Moghul Emperor Aurangazeb in 1694, around 77 years after it began.

Culture Quotient

Personality Plus

Apart from the classical Kuchipudi, which it shares with neighbouring Andhra Pradesh, folk dance traditions that flourish here include the Perini Shiva Tandavam, highly popular during ancient times, and being revived now. It was originally performed in front of the idol of Lord Shiva before setting out for war. Even today, the dancers are usually men.

There have been very few women rulers in the subcontinent, and Rani Rudrama Devi stands tall among those few. Her father had no sons; and so a putrika ceremony was conducted, designating her as a son. She faced rumblings from her own territory, but was able to quell them, and also fended off attacks from powerful neighbours. Her reign was marked by good governance.

Sights to See

Tasty Treats Agricultural conditions are particularly conducive to millets in this part of the country, and the grain plays a big part in the traditional cooking here.

If you like to experiment at the stove, try adapting dishes to include this healthier alternative to rice and wheat.

The new state has its share of natural and man-made wonders, including wildlife sanctuaries and scenic beauty, temples, mosques, forts, palaces and museums. As a leisure destination, Ramoji Film City is a one-of-a-kind experience. Spread over 1,666 acres, it is the largest integrated film city in the world.

Past Glories The highest point in the early history of the region was possibly between 1083 and 1323, when it was ruled by the Kakatiya dynasty. A clue to its grandeur can be found in the celebrated diamond, the Kohi-noor (‘mountain of light’). It is believed to have been mined from the region and installed as one of the eyes of the idol of the presiding deity of a temple in Warangal, the Kakatiya capital. Subsequently, the gemstone fell into the hands of various conquerors and passed through many countries till it became part of the British Crown Jewels.

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Tripura

Old-World Charm Capital: Agartala

How the land lies Among India’s smallest states, it is bordered by Bangladesh on three sides, and only one National Highway connects it by road to the rest of India. Yet, this northeastern corner of India has contributed quite a bit to the country’s ethos.

Political Pressures Tripura was a princely state, and did not really come under British dominion. It joined the Indian Union and became a full-fledged state a few years after Independence.

Past Glories Info-bytes - Watch a group of dancers perform the Hojagiri dance – words like ‘precision’ and ‘grace’ acquire new meaning in this performance! http://tinyurl.com/msvca5a - Tripura’s weavers are making a name for themselves outside the bounds of their homes – learn more about their art form and their efforts to sustain it: http://tinyurl.com/oxmwyv8

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There are references to Tripura in the great epic Mahabharata, in the Puranas, and in ancient inscriptions. The best account of its rulers can be had from Rajmala, a court chronicle.

Personality Plus Sachin Dev Burman was born into the royal family of Tripura. His first lessons in music were from his father, but he later learnt it formally.

He moved to Bengal, where he made a mark as singer and composer for radio. After a stint in Bengali cinema, Bollywood called, and he captured India’s heart. S.D. Burman wrote music for over a 100 films, both Hindi and Bengali. His eminently hummable compositions were greatly influenced by the folk songs of his native Tripura.

Culture Quotient The dramatic Hojagiri dance is performed by women of the Reang tribe. Displaying astonishing flexibility of body, they balance on earthen pitchers and pots during the recital. One man, Satya Ram Reang, determined to preserve and propagate this art form, has opened a school to teach the Hojagiri.

Tasty Treats A trademark aspect of traditional cooking here is the low, or zero use of oil. So those who are calorie conscious, do try a Tripura recipe or three. A key ingredient of many dishes is berma – dried and fermented fish, which lifts the dish to another level of yumminess!

Sights to See

Photo: Wikipedia

If you have a taste for whimsy, visit Unakoti, which, translated, means ‘one less than a crore’. Legend has it that one crore gods and goddesses, led by Lord Shiva, made a night halt at this place on their way to the holy city of Kashi. At daybreak, Shiva tried to wake his companions to resume their journey, but they did not heed him.

Enraged, Shiva turned them to stone and set out on his journey alone. And so the rocks stand, even today, one less than a crore.

Worshipfully Yours Maliuma was the Goddess of paddy and wealth. Once, in the guise of a destitute old woman, she visited a wealthy family that was immersed in wining and dining. Driven away, she went to a house where two hungry children were waiting for their parents to return from foraging for food. The family prospered while she lived with them. When she left, she told them to keep an earthen pot of rice in the house, and worship it daily. Traditional Tripura families still follow the custom.

Crafted with Care There was a time in Tripura when a woman’s worth was judged by her weaving skills!

Now, the striking designs that come off the looms of the state’s highly skilled weavers fly off the shelves of stockists across the country. Shawls and dress materials are much in demand abroad, too. The pan-Indian sari, some say, had its genesis in the rignai, part of the traditional attire of Tripura’s tribal women.

Photo: Magalie L'Abbé/Creative Commons

Ethnic Fingerprint

Photo: Wikipedia

Chakma, Halam and Usai are some of the tribes from this part of India. Traditional Tripuras houses were elevated structures, to provide some security against wild animals. The indigenous culture of many of these tribes is giving way to modern influences.

Take Saimar, for example, the language of one isolated tribe.

It is all but extinct; only some four people are able to speak it.

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Uttar Pradesh

Seat of History and Culture Capital: Lucknow

How the land lies This state, ‘UP’ in location and in acronym, encompasses a variety of geographical features because of its sheer size – mountains and plains, forests and rivers. It shares borders with several other states and also touches Nepal.

Political Pressures Info-bytes - A dip in the waters of the Triveni Sangam or confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and (mythical) Saraswathi rivers is said to wash away one’s sins (including those accumulated over past births): http://tinyurl.com/lnw3sml - Make mouth-watering chicken biryani in true Lucknowi style! Don’t be put off by the long list of ingredients – the result is worth it! http://tinyurl.com/oopusa9 - One of the key features of Katkak is the lightning speed at which the dancer’s feet seem to move! http://tinyurl.com/lkc3ezu 114

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Uttar Pradesh was the seat of the Mughal dynasty, which controlled the destiny of the subcontinent for almost two centuries. It played a central role in the Independence struggle and the shaping of the new nation. Many leaders of the Freedom Movement hailed from here.

Past Glories The history of the region is studded with so much that is remarkable! It is the setting for both the greatest epics of India – the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. It is inextricably woven into the story of Lord Krishna. The city of Sarnath, where Siddhartha Gautam delivered his first sermon after gaining enlightenment and becoming the Buddha, is located here. The list can go on…

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Fatehpur Sikri. Photo: India Tourism Board

Sights to See

Tasty Treats

The Taj Mahal at Agra, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, is arguably India’s biggest tourist attraction. No one, President or peasant, can resist the pull of this monument dedicated to ‘love’.

Though its aesthetic appeal is hard to beat, the architectural wizardry of the Bara Imambara at Lucknow is admirable, too. The central arched hall of this 18th century palace is almost 50 metres long and about three stories high, but has no pillar or beam to support it!

UP’s cuisine has a strong Mughal influence. Think Mughal food, think biryani.

This one-pot meal, made with fragrant long-grained Basmati rice and succulent mutton or chicken, flavoured with aromatic spices and herbs, is a dish the world associates with India.

Personality Plus The men and women from here, who have played deciding roles in the country’s political and cultural development, are too many to name. Among them, Kabir Das stands unique. Though his roots are shrouded in mystery, what is clear is that both Hinduism and Islam impacted him. The poet-Saint’s works propagate the oneness of God, and his pithy couplets embody a deep spirituality. He is a real-life example of communal harmony.

Worshipfully Yours

Crafted with Care

In Hinduism, the confluence of rivers is considered very holy. And among the holiest spots of such intermingling is the Triveni Sangam – literally the coming together of three rivers – the Ganga, the Yamuna and the mythical Saraswathi, the River of Enlightenment, at Prayag, close to Allahabad. It is the venue of the Maha Kumbh Mela, held once in 144 years, and believed to be the largest religious gathering in the world.

The textiles of UP are world famous.

The heavy brocades from Varanasi are as popular as the delicate chikkankari embroidery of Lucknow, and the opulent zardosi embroidery is highly valued too.

A niche craft practiced in the Lucknow region is perfume making. Known as attar, spices, herbs, essential oils of various flowers and leaves, and sandalwood oil are some ingredients of the aromatic art.

Zardosi embroidery

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Photo: Marcel Van Mourik

Culture Quotient This is where the classical Kathak dances came into being.

Religion and mythology inspire folk performances like the Raslila, the Ramlila and the qawwali. Talking of music, Uttar Pradesh can take credit for giving shape to the tabla and the sitar – musical instruments widely used across the country. The former is a percussion instrument and the latter a stringed one.

Kathak dancer Aditi Mangaldas.

Ethnic Fingerprint The Kol tribals are native to northern and central India, and can be found in several states, including UP. They are associated with Lord Rama, as they claim descent from Shabari, the tribal woman who gave the Prince of Ayodhya berries to eat during his exile in the forest.

Breaking with tradition, Shabari tasted the berries first to ensure their sweetness – an act that would have traditionally made the offering ‘impure’. However, Lord Rama accepted the food graciously, and appreciated her gesture as one that stemmed from the best of intentions.

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Uttarakhand

Land of the Gods Capital: Dehradun

Political Pressures Uttarakhand was carved out of the bigger state of Uttar Pradesh to become the 27th state of the Indian Union in 2000. It was originally named Uttaranchal but was later renamed Uttarakhand.

Past Glories

Info-bytes - Get inspired by scenes of breathtaking natural beauty in this state – this video takes you on a visual tour of the state’s best parts: http://tinyurl.com/ngsxy6c - Join Rocky and Mayur, television’s famous foodies, as they sample Pahari cuisine in Uttarakhand – and write down your pick of ‘must-try’ items: http://tinyurl.com/lha97e8

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The realm of kings like Kanishka, Samudragupta and Katuria add glory to the state’s history. The mountains of Uttarakhand were also, legend says, where the Sage Valmiki wrote the celebrated epic poem, the Ramayana.

Culture Quotient The state has a rich repertoire of literature. Sumitranandan Pant, Manglesh Dabral and Mohan Upreti are some well-known writers from the area.

Equally popular is the folk tradition. Itinerant singers rendering lyrical ballads and wandering dance troupes are welcome sources of entertainment not only in the remote villages but also at the many fairs and festivals here.

Uttarakhand has earned the sobriquet of ‘The Land of the Gods’ or Devbhumi because of the plethora of temples here, including the char dhams – the four temples that Hindus hold most sacred, at Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri.

Haridwar is yet another spot considered as holy by Hindu pilgrims.

Badrinath Temple. Photo: India Tourism, Chennais

Worshipfully Yours

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Personality Plus Gaura Devi’s mother told her that trees are brothers, and that they prevented the mountains from tumbling down on villages. The words took root in the mind of the unlettered little girl. Years later, on March 26, 1974, when all the menfolk of the area were away, word reached her that a group of lumbermen were about to cut down forest trees. Gaura Devi, then aged around 50, led a group of 27 women into the forest. They put themselves between the trees and the gun-brandishing men, who ultimately conceded defeat. The courage of the women came as a turning point for the nascent Chipko Movement, a nonviolent environmental protection initiative. Leaders like Sundarlal Bahuguna were able to awaken the nation’s conscience to the need to safeguard nature.

Photo: Marina Marangos, Greece

Photo: Debabrata Ghosh Birati/Wikipedia

Ethnic Fingerprint

How the land lies

The Paharis are literally the mountain people of Uttarakhand.

The original inhabitants of the region are believed to be the aboriginal Kol tribe, who were later joined by the Khasas.

Then there are the Van Gujjars, a nomadic tribe of shepherds.

There are two distinct regions in Uttarakhand – Kumaon and Gharwal. Each has its own ethnic individuality.

Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, the location of this state is indicated in its very name – Uttarakhand – the Northern Land. China’s autonomous Tibet Region and Nepal are its foreign neighbours. This state is very special because it is the birthplace of two of the country’s major rivers – the Ganga and the Yamuna.

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Sights to See

Photo: India Tourism, Chennai

If you’re planning a trip to Uttarakhand, give yourself plenty of time to take in its many splendours.

There are several wildlife sanctuaries to choose from. The Jim Corbett National Park is synonymous with tigers. Nainital and Musoori are hugely popular hill stations.

Adventure lovers can try their hand at kayaking, paragliding and whitewater rafting. If you just want some peace, visit some of the remote villages that seem to be caught in a time warp.

Crafted with Care The state is known for its intricate, almost lace-like wood carving work.

Temples and homes are lavishly decorated with delicate motifs, geometrical, floral or religious. The craftsmen even use their skills to enhance the beauty of the plentifully available driftwood. These make excellent conversation pieces in the living room – so pick one up when you’re there.

Tasty Treats The two regions of Kumaon and Gharwal have different types of cuisine. In general, the Paharis don’t use much milk or milk products in their cooking, and since the availability of fresh vegetables is limited, they rely on sun-dried lentil preparations to tide over the winter months. A surprise ingredient is hemp seeds – which are used as a flavouring agent in many dishes. Almora’s baal mithai is a sweet that everyone loves.

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West Bengal

Art of Living Capital: Kolkata

How the land lies West Bengal encompasses part of the Himalayas, the Ganga runs through it, and it borders the Bay of Bengal. It also abuts three other countries – Nepal, Bhutan and Bangladesh. Though counted among the smaller states size-wise, it’s up there with the big ones in terms of population. Kolkata, its capital, is India’s third largest metropolitan city.

Political Pressures

Info-bytes - Master filmmaker Satyajit Ray discusses the elements of his craft, and talks about films from other countries as well: http://tinyurl.com/l8h6ycl - This short documentary on Subhasini Mistry, who built the Humanity Hospital at Hanspukur village, is a tribute to the formidable nature of the human spirit: http://tinyurl.com/mqtmug5 - Learn to make not one, but three Bengali dishes – one vegetarian, one made with fish, and the last one being a dessert (Ingredients and instructions are given in English at the end of each recipe): http://tinyurl.com/klsdzd5 122

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The Portuguese, Dutch and French all came calling for trade in the 16th and 17th centuries. But it was the British who exerted the maximum influence. They rang the curtain down on the Mughal Empire. Kolkata, then Calcutta, was the capital of their empire till 1911, and in 1905 they partitioned the region along religious lines.

Past Glories The ancient kingdom of Vanga (sometimes called Banga) mentioned in Sanskrit literature, is believed to be the root of the name Bengal or Bangla. Also, around the 6th century BC, the area was a part of the powerful Magadha Kingdom.

Under the Howrah Bridge. Photo: Helen Taylor

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Culture Quotient

Worshipfully Yours

Bengal is the cultural heartland of India. Art, literature, theatre, cinema and music are integral to life, especially in Kolkata. Rabindra sangeet, the genre of music pioneered by Rabindranath Tagore, has a strong fan following. So do the wandering Baul minstrels.

Filmmaker Satyajit Ray, a creative genius on more than one front, was awarded an Honorary Oscar. There are many more Bengalis with high artistic quotients.

Brahmoism, based on the principle of monotheism or one Supreme God, is a movement that started in Bengal and was committed to religious reform on various fronts. The Brahmo Samaj, the community which follows Brahmoism, was founded in 1828 by Raja Ram Mohan Roy. It embarked on social reform, trying to do away with practices such as sati (burning of widows on their husband’s funeral pyre) and child marriage.

It greatly influenced the making of modern India.

Photo: Wikipedia

Sights to See

Photo: Helen Taylor

The Howrah Bridge, Victoria Memorial, Belur Math and Mother House, headquarters of Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity, are popular tourist spots.

Don’t miss a chance to visit the Sundarbans, the world’s largest mangrove forest, natural habitat of the famous Bengal Tiger and home to many endangered species, including Olive Ridley turtles, estuarine crocodiles, river terrapins and Irrawaddy dolphins.

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Talk about Bengal and the first name that comes to mind is Rabindranath Tagore – author of not only India’s national anthem, but of Bangladesh’s too, and a Nobel Laureate. Another prominent personality is Subhasini Mistry. She was married off at a young age, and widowed at 23 – because her village lacked medical facilities to treat her husband.

Rabindranath Tagore Though she had four children to bring up, Subhasini dreamt of building a hospital.

She worked as manual labourer, scrimped and saved, and made her dream come true. The two-storied Humanity Hospital at Hanspukur village, which serves the poor free of cost, is testimony to what the human spirit can achieve.

Fish curry

Personality Plus

Tasty Treats Try mishti doi (sweetened curd), and ilish macherjol, a fish gravy – they’re typical Bengali fare. Spend a lazy afternoon snacking on jhal muri – spicy puffed rice and raw vegetables with a mustard oil dressing – washed down with tea served in eco-friendly disposable earthenware cups. Mustard oil, by the way, is the traditionally preferred medium of cooking.

Crafted with Care

Ethnic Fingerprint

The bankura horse and kantha embroidery are two famous handicraft items of West Bengal. The former, distinctively stylised horses, are made usually with terracotta and are considered auspicious. Kantha work is done on either cotton or silk, and looks good on both apparel and furnishings.

The peace-loving Mru tribe is found mostly in the Jalpaiguri area of West Bengal. There is a fair bit of democracy in their social setup. The ploong is a type of mouth organ that Mru men play. The more elaborate ones are something like bagpipes.

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The Union Territories

DELHI: CAPITAL CITY The place obviously has something going for it. It has been identified as the capital of Indraprastha itself, the ancient kingdom of the Pandavas, immortalised in the epic Mahabharata. Since then, several empires have left their imprints on this city – or rather cities, for Delhi isn’t just one city but a cluster of cities. The whole area has been categorised as the National Capital Region (NCR) while the Capital itself has been marked as the National Capital Territory. Administratively, it is like a mini-state, with its own Legislature and Cabinet of Ministers, led by a Chief Minister.

In keeping with its history, the architecture and ambience of the capital region is a charming mix of the old and the new. Stately old edifices, burnished with history, rub shoulders with gleaming, modern steel-and-glass structures. The many narrow, twisting, crowded lanes and by-lanes are as much a part of the city as the broad, arterial Rajpath, with the majestic India Gate straddling it. There’s history 126

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everywhere you turn – at the ancient Qtub Minar and Jantar Mantar, at Humayun’s Tomb and Shakti Sthal, at Raj Ghat and Parliament House. The Red Fort in the old city is from where the Prime Minister customarily addresses the nation on Independence Day. New Delhi is distinct from Old Delhi. The present-day administrative area was designed by the famed architect, Edwin Lutyens. It has as its centre the sprawling, magnificent Rashtrapathi Bhavan, official residence of the President of India. Shop till you drop at Chandni Chowk, take a tonga ride through the old city and then hop on to the Metro for a study in contrasts. Gorge on street food – spicy kebabs and piping hot chole bhature, nihari – a slow-cooked meat dish, and cool kulfi are among the top favourites. Foodies, don’t miss the Gali Paranthe Wali – you get Indian breads with a mouthwatering choice of fillings there!

THE UNION TERRITORIES Chandigarh: Double Role Chandigarh is the capital of both Punjab and Haryana. It is a planned city, designed by French architect Le Corbousier in 1953. Look for the ‘Open Hand’ emblem that stands 85 feet tall, signifying peace, as well as the importance of both giving and receiving.

Daman and Diu: Portuguese Connection Daman and Diu bear the imprints of Portuguese colonisation.

Diu is a tiny island with a balmy climate, while Daman is on the mainland. The ruins of the Dominican Seminary here are worth a visit. It once attracted Catholic scholars from distant places.

Dadra-Nagar Haveli: Meet the Lion A cluster of 72 villages, Dadra-Nagar Haveli lies in India’s western region, nestling between the States of Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh.

Silvassa is the capital. The Vasona Lion Safari is a big tourist attraction.

Andaman and Nicobar: In a Time Warp A little over 570 tropical islands in the Bay of Bengal make up the Union Territory of Andaman and Nicobar. Of them, only 38 are inhabited. They have been largely isolated from external influences and are thus of great interest to anthropologists and scientists specialising in various disciplines.

Some of the tribes are of great antiquity. Some are on the verge of extinction. There are just a handful of Andamanese, for example. Entry of tourists, particularly foreigners, is restricted. The Cellular Jail at the capital, Port Blair, is sacred to the memory of many freedom fighters who spent their last days there, in the most wretched and inhuman of conditions.

Lakshadweep: Islands in Plenty The Archipelago of Lakshadweep are the only coral Islands in India.

Only five of them are open to tourists, and entry of foreigners is restricted to only two. Kavaratti, the capital, has a whopping 52 mosques, and, of them, Ujra is particularly revered because of a well which is believed to have extraordinary curative powers.

Puducherry: French Flavour The Union Territory of Puducherry, earlier known as Pondicherry, is made up of four disparate enclaves, three on one side of peninsular India, and the fourth on the opposite side. It takes its name from the largest enclave, and the French colonists had a strong presence in all four. Puducherry still has a strong Gaelic flavour, with French architecture and street names. It is the setting for a part of the Booker Prize-winning Life of Pi. And it is the home of the Aurobindo Ashram, a spiritual community founded by Sri Aurobindo.

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On a Lighter Vein Photo: Saran De Zutter, Belgium

Trivia

The hamlet of Mohammadpur Umri in Uttar Pradesh has a unique claim to fame. Among its 900 or so inhabitants, there are around 60 pairs of twins! That’s possibly the world’s highest twin birth rate. It has even recorded the birth of a pair of twin cows.

Sanskrit is one of the oldest languages of the world. It still commands respect as the language of the learned in ancient India. Most Indian languages of today have their roots in it.

However, though its cadences are very pleasing to the ear, it hasn’t really been the chosen medium for casual conversation. Except, that is, in the villages of Mattur and Hosahalli in Karnataka, where it is even now used in day-to-day communication.

In the Hindu scheme of worship, you can address specific problems to specific Gods. If your plans to go abroad have been thwarted by unyielding visa officials, make a trip to the ancient ChilkurBalaji Temple near Hyderabad. The deity there has somehow acquired the reputation of being a ‘Visa God’ who will untangle all red tape.

You may have heard of spas for pet cats and dogs, but here’s one that takes the cake: Every July, elephants in the southern Indian state of Kerala go to the Punnathoor Kotta Elephant Yard for a full-scale spa experience! Baths, massages and wholesome food are all part of the package.

Shani Shignapur in Maharashtra is famous not only for its temple to Shani (Saturn) but also for the fact that the houses there don’t have doors, leave alone locks! Crime was virtually unknown in this town till the very recent past.

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Distant Echoes

Talking about Similarities

Mommy dearest Indian society is primarily a patriarchal one, with inheritance and family affiliations being traced through male heirs. However, in two pockets of the country, separated by thousands of kilometres, with practically no shared history, women come into their own. The Nairs of Kerala and tribes like the Khasis of Meghalaya in the Northeast follow a matrilineal system.

How come, kokum?

Kokum is a plant that grows primarily on the western coast of India. The fruit and its rind are rich in medicinal properties. It’s a great coolant. Kokum is a trademark ingredient of cooking in Kerala, the Konkan area and Goa, too. The plant also finds favour in some northeastern states.

Second-guessing it Tamil as a language has some vociferous champions – but even they may not have dreamt that it would achieve the elevated status of ‘second language’ in the state of Haryana, way up in the North. But that’s what it was, for whatever political reason, till as recently as 2010.

All wrapped up Momos are ubiquitous in the Northeast. The savoury dumplings, usually stuffed with meat, are served with a spicy sauce. Down south, the wraps are rice flour-based, the filling sweet, but the concept is the same. They’re known as kozhukottais. Elsewhere in the country, they’re commonly called modaks.

Hindu mythology says they’re beloved of Lord Ganesha – the charming elephant-headed God.

Call of duty Dharma, or duty, is an important concept of Hinduism. It is central to the Bhagavad Gita, which encapsulates the advice Lord Krishna gave Arjuna on the eve of the pivotal battle of Kurukshetra.

Little wonder, then, that Dharmapuri, or ‘town of Dharma’, seems to be a popular name for places.

The best known is the one in Tamil Nadu. But there are other Dharmapuris – there’s one in West Bengal, one in Telangana, another in Maharashtra. See how many more you can find.

Gandhi in every town The nation owes a huge great debt to Mahatma Gandhi, the guiding force behind the freedom struggle. Every major town and city has paid homage to his memory by naming one of its prominent roads after him. So, next time you walk down M.G Road, think of the thousands of others walking down other M.G Roads, and the man who helped win the country its independence.

An ideal life Sages and philosophers have moved back and forth from the earliest times. Adi Sankara from the South set up four great Mutts in four corners of India. In more modern times, Sri Aurobindo, born in Kolkata, set up an international community down south in Pondicherry, or Puducherry as it is now called.

Colour me blue The Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu translates literally to ‘Blue Mountain’, probably a reference to the kurinji flower that blooms once in twelve years and clothes the slopes in a beautiful bluish-purple. Miles and miles away, in Mizoram, there’s another ‘Blue Mountain’.

Buck up!

The black buck is a protected animal. Apart from select areas in Rajasthan and Haryana, it is found in the Guindy National Park and IIT-M campus at Chennai, Point Calimere and Vallanadu Sanctuaries in Tamil Nadu and Rollapadu (Andhra Pradesh), Velavadar (Gujarat) and Chilka (Odisha).

Games people play Ezhu Kallu, a traditional game of rural India, involves breaking a tower of piled-up stones by throwing a ball at it and building it again before your opponents hit you with the ball and get you out. It is also called satoliya, pitthu and lagori. Hopscotch is known by other names, such as pandi, ekkadokka and tokkudubilla.

Going against the grain The biryani has many avatars. The saffron-infused Lucknowi version is usually made by layering partially pre-cooked rice and meat, and slow-cooking it in a sealed vessel. The Hyderabadi incarnation is spicier, while in Mumbai, kewra water (made from pandanus flowers) brings another dimension of taste. Kolkata’s twist is to add potatoes to the meat; along the Malabar coast, the rice used is a short-grained variety. Then there’s the Sindhi Biryani, the vegetarian tehri, and many more.

Pattern power Muggulu, kolam, rangoli, poo-kalam – the concept is the same, whatever they may be called. They are patterns, simple or elaborate, geometric or floral, drawn at the thresholds of homes, with white rice powder, coloured powders, sometimes even flowers, to welcome guests, feed the ants and ward off evil.

Linking lives

Divine greeting Namaste in the North, vanakkam in the South – broadly speaking. The words may be different, but they are both respectful greetings. The accompanying gesture of joinned palms held at chest level is understood by Indians everywhere:‘I bow to the divine in you’.

Photo: India Tourism Board

Different states and communities know them by different names – mangalsutra, thaali and minnu are three.

They’re all considered equally sacred. They are pendants with different motifs and components worn on chains by women across geographic, cultural and religious lines in India, signifying that the wearer is married.

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National Anthem English transliteration:

Meaning:

Jana-Gana-Mana-Adhinayaka Jaya Hey

The ruler of the minds of people, victory be to you,

Bharata-Bhagya-Vidhata

Dispenser of the destiny of India!

Punjab-Sindhu-Gujarata-Maratha

Punjab, Sindh, Gujarat, Maharashtra,

Dravida-Utkala-Banga

Dravida (South India), Orissa and Bengal,

Vindhya-Himachala-Yamuna-Ganga

The Vindhya, the Himalayas, the Yamuna, the Ganges,

Uchchhala-Jaladhi-Taranga

And the oceans with foaming waves all around.

Tava Subha Namey Jage

Wake up listening to your auspicious name,

Tava Subha Asisha Mange

Ask for your auspicious blessings,

Gahe Tava Jaya Gatha.

And sing to your glorious victory.

Jana-Gana-Mangala Dayaka Jaya Hey

You who impart well being to the people,

Bharata-Bhagya-Vidhata.

Dispenser of the destiny of India,

Jaya Hey, Jaya Hey, Jaya Hey,

Victory be to you,

Jaya, Jaya, Jaya, Jaya Hey.

Victory, victory, victory to you!

‘Jana Gana Mana...’, the national anthem of India, was written in Bengali by Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore. It was officially adopted by the Constituent Assembly as the Indian national anthem on January 24, 1950. The original poem written

by Rabindranath Tagore was translated into Hindi-Urdu by Abid Ali.

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Acknowledgements

Global Adjustments’ headquarters in Chennai houses the India Immersion Centre – a tribute to our nation Bharath.

This book was printed in the year that Global Adjustments completed 20 years, and first released as a souvenir at Aikya 2015. That year, Aikya, an annual CSR concert organised to help raise funds for retired accompanying artistes and to empower women, was in its sixth successful avatar. The idea for the book stemmed from a column in Culturama – and soon took a life and shape of its own.

interesting, engaging style was the backbone of this work.

When I saw the final proofs of the book, I felt immense happiness and pride – happiness that we were able to create this product, and pride at having taken a step (no matter how small) in serving our great nation.

Photographs make all the difference in a book like this one – and give us an ‘armchair travel’ experience, literally. Special thanks to India Tourism, Chennai, for permission to use photos from the Incredible India archives. And thanks to Shobana Sairaj Kumar, who helped us get permission to use those photos.

However, no matter how wonderful an idea, it needs the right people to give it life – and I want to thank the people whose time, talent and hard work made this book a reality.

Thank you to Srikals Printers, our print partners, for helping with not just this but many more books that are of high quality and appeal.

A special thanks to artist M.V. Dhurandhar and Images of Asia for giving us permission to use the images of Indian women in ethnic attire – which lent themselves to a very attractive cover.

Susan Philip is the author of the ‘Ten for the Road’ series in Culturama, from where we got the idea for this book. Her ability to search out bits of information and put them together in an

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“I hope there are no more ‘new’ states – finding pictures for 29 is hard enough!” was a common complaint from Team Culturama: Prem Kumar, Yamini Vasudevan, Shefali Ganesh, and Sethulakshmy Nayar. The team designed the pages, edited, proofread and sourced photographs, and went ‘the extra mile’.

I also want to thank all India aficionados who contributed many valuable photos to Culturama and to the Annual Beautiful India Photo Competition over the years, from which we used many of the photographs in this book.

Of course, no good idea can take off without the requisite funds. Our sales team – Anupama Arvind, Vyjayanthi Rajiv and Amritha Suresh – put in their time, effort and a bit of magic to pull this project through.

A special thanks to our sponsors for their generous contributions.

Ranjini Manian

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