Culturama August 2012

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India's Only Cultural Magazine for Global Citizens

VOLUME 3, iSSUE 6 August 2012

Brought to you by Global Adjustments

The Roar of Freedom Dedicating this 65th Independence Day special issue to India's national animal, the Tiger

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D e a r

R e a d e r s

IF SOMEONE asked India, ‘How old are you?’, what would she say? Sixty-five, for the years of independence from close to two century of colonisation? I have always imagined that India would probably just smile; age is a misnomer when it comes to a country that has existed well over 5,000 years, with a culture that is as much a part of this earth as it is of India. It’s one of the reasons why August 15, the day of Indian independence, holds a much deeper meaning than a mere national holiday. It’s one of the reasons why I still get goose bumps when I sing the national anthem. And probably why, this particular display at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London caught my attention.

Titled ‘Tipoo’s Tiger’, this automaton rests in a glass case and makes growling noises as it takes off the arm of the mannequin below. The mannequin is that of a British soldier. The meaning is obvious, the tiger representing India’s indefatigable spirit, overcoming the coloniser. You need to wind up the automaton though, and that made me realise that every act, every action, needs to come from within. It’s individual effort that leads to collective change.

And so, this issue is dedicated to the tiger – because it represents India in its unmistakable presence, because it is India’s national animal, because it is, unfortunately, an endangered species, and because, this universal will to save India’s tigers is our clarion call to wake up and act. It’s not just about the tigers anymore, as much as it is about our wildlife, our forests, our habitat, our livelihood. But it has to begin somewhere and the tiger is a good place as any to begin. Our Feature story gives you a comprehensive outline of tiger conservation efforts in India and some of the popular tiger reserves in the country; ‘Being India’ features the inspiring story of Julian Matthews and Tiger Nation; the ‘Present Tens’ interview with wildlife photographer, Vasudha Chakravarthi, puts the issue in perspective; and A to Z of India lists some of the incredible wildlife of India.

All these different voices converge in the need to “take action to create value for someone else”, an important lesson I learnt from a customer leadership workshop I had the pleasure of attending, by Ron Kaufman, a thought leader whose story you read in Culturama last month. He is a real man with a mission, teaching the world how a positive service culture can impact the way we live, and how the right words and apt action can deepen our core values.

We hope you enjoy this issue and look forward to your feedback.

Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief E-mail: globalindian@globaladjustments.com

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contents 8 Present tens

Shoot at Sight

12 Past Tens

Rabindranath Tagore WITH the country on the threshold of its 65th Independence Day, the month of August signifies all things Indian. Our cover picture from the Kerala folk festival Pullikali is the perfect blend of tradition and patriotism, blurring the boundaries between man and beast and celebrating the endangered national animal’s regality, majesty and poise.

Photo Yana Fetova, Ukraine

Editor-in-Chief

Ranjini Manian

business head tiia vaataja Consultant Editor praveena shivram creative head

JayaKrishna Behera

Associate Designer

Prem Kumar

14 Short message service

Snippets of Indian Culture The Wild Bunch

20 Feature

Reservoir Cats 26 in your kitchen

Coast Effective

Chennai trishla jain, pallavi roy choudhury Bengaluru mukundan T Delhi-NCR preeti bindra, ruchika srivastava Mumbai & Pune

Vijaya subramaniam

E-Culturama

Samyuktha Sunil

Advisory Committee

N Ram, Elaine Wood, G Venket Ram, Marina Marangos,

Suzanne Mcneill

Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru and Chennai

40 Calendars

Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru and Chennai

Transformation

Bengaluru - We've Moved!

7/2, Edward Road, Off Cunningham Road, Bangalore - 560 052. Tel.+91-80-41267152 E-mail: culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-Gurgaon Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon - 122 002. Haryana. Tel.+91-124-435 4236.

E-mail: del@globaladjustments.com

HappiLi Ever After

58 India immersion centre

News & Happenings & IIC Calendar

60 GLOBAL CITIZEN

The Boy Who Grew Up

62 Holistic living

The Infinite Quest

64 MYTH AND MYTHOLOGY

The Turning Point

65 FESTIVALS OF INDIA

48 Thought Leaders

A Class Apart 50 seeing India

Tiger Trails

Celebrate Independence Day, Eid, Onam and Krishna Jayanti

66 CHILD FRIENDLY

52 being India Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R. A. Puram, Chennai 600028, India.

Telefax. +91-44-24617902 E-mail: culturama@globaladjustments.com

56 Rhythm of life

32 Look who's in town

46 picture story

Advertising

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18 A-Z of INdia

Paw It Forward

67 iseries

54 currently occupied

Taken at the Flood

Sweet Nothings Book, Movie and Music Review

68 POSTCARD FROM INDIA

At Play & Gidday

70 PATRIOTIC FLAVOUR

Mumbai/Pune Rustom Court, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai 400030.

Tel.+91-22-66104191/2 E-mail: mum@globaladjustments.com

The Album of Time & Songs of India

72 Tell us your story Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028 and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032.

Editor: Ranjini Manian

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The House Whisperer

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76 & 79 space and the city

Property Listings

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“Culturama offers a refreshing glimpse into the cultural nuances that form a distinct part of everyday life in contemporary India. I am sure these insights about our heritage are of immense interest to visiting citizens from across the world.

Congratulations! I wish you continued success.”

– Ajit Gulabchand Chairman and Managing Director, Hindustan Construction Company

Letters to the Editor

As a celebration of Global Adjustments’ journey, the June 2012 issue was an excellent read. The images were colourful and the texts accompanying the images were stories within themselves. Expats sometimes forget there is so much to gain from living abroad. This issue reminds us that India is hugely diverse and culturally enlightening for anyone who embrace it. I do enjoy the advertisements too; it gives me some assistance on what is available in the city. I found my hairdresser and beautician from the magazine, and both are great!”

– Liz Hooley, USA “Loved the Culturama 200th issue.

Great design and content.”

– Kamini Ramani, USA “The June 2012 issue of Culturama with 200 images is simply spectacular and breathtaking. You and your team have been successful in capturing the essence of India in all possible colours, shapes and sizes in a nutshell. Congratulations!”

— Prof. (Dr.) Debashish Sengupta, India “Culturama is a very impressive magazine – very high quality production and content, and a splendid souvenir.

Congratulations on it and achieving 200.”

— Russell Salton, USA

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“I thoroughly enjoyed the July issue of Culturama. The revamped content and design made it a pleasure to read, especially the Feature on Islam. Kudos to the team.”

— Dan Selton, UK “I moved to Bengaluru recently and my wife and I have been using Culturama as our bible to learn the dos and don’ts in India, along with the helpful advice to tenants you offer. Keep up your good work for our community.”

— Ben Adams,, UK “Culturama has been an outstanding guide to me in the four years I have lived in India. I look forward to it, cherish and collect copies, and I am taking them all back with me as I return to Russia soon. Fantastic work! Thank You.” – Gleb Gerasimov, Vice Consul General, Russia

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Present Tens pRAVEENA SHIVRAM

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Shoot @ Sight HER photographs speak the language of quiet from within. fortitude, of silence that demands reverence, and of As a wildlife photographer living in the Nilgiris, truths from a surreal world communicated in that split how do you walk the thin line between objectifying second of immortality. Wildlife photographer, Vasudha nature and revering it?

Chakravarthi, city-bred in Bengaluru, now calls the You need to know your subject before you actually forest her home and the wildlife around her sustenance, take your picture. Fifty percent of my time is spent in capturing not just the essence of nature, but the moods, observation. You need to be aware that you are in their temperaments, and soul of her myriad ‘wild neighbours’. territory. As an amateur, you pick up the camera and all From her 187-year-old colonial bungalow in the forests of you can think of is the exposure, the colour, the light, Nilgiris, Vasudha talks about why she will never share her the frame. But when you get into the jungle, you need pictures of the tiger, about habitat management and the to respect why you are there. The subject knows your rigours of following one’s passion. presence very well; they have a much better sixth sense What led you to wildlife photography – the than you. You need to be thankful for the space they give need to conserve nature or the need to capture it you, and take your shot when the time is right, when you for posterity? are meant to take that shot.

I was introduced to nature as It takes a lot of courage to It’s absolutely not a child by my father, and I knew follow one’s passion, and even easy being a wildlife then that whatever I do I would be more so to sustain it. Where do connected to nature. I got my first you draw your strength from photographer. You need camera, a Russian SLR analog for survival? camera, when I was eight years I haven’t had power for three to be mentally, physically old and I have been shooting ever weeks and water for seven months. and emotionally since. I would go on treks every Every day, I travel 12 km one way weekend, was part of nature to get 400litres of water. For tough. To follow clubs, interested in birds, plants, groceries, I have to travel 6 km your passion means trees and habitat management. to the nearest village. There have The idea to capture nature has been days when I have sustained handling the hardships always been a part of me, but myself on just boiled potatoes. that come your way to do it through photography And, I have to go on foot, as my came much later. I was 26 when jeep got stolen a few months ago.

I quit my corporate life; I used to work with HSBC Bank. It’s absolutely not easy and you need to be mentally, Over a period of time, I started to question my actions, physically and emotionally tough. I live alone with very wondering why I am continuing to do something when I am little communication with the outside world, and to be not feeling good inside. So I went back to nature. I went to alone in a frame of mind where you are sane, where you Ooty’s Light Life Academy to study digital photography can get up every morning with the same amount of love and, well, here I am. I rented this old British bungalow and passion for your work… there’s a lot of sincerity in on 300 acres of property that the owner preferred to what I do and probably that’s what keeps me going. To maintain as a reserve, and I have been here for the past follow your passion means handling the hardships that three years. I am not sure if that answers your question, come your way. Financially, I sustain myself by doing a bit but nature is something or someplace where I feel content of commercial photography. I live a very basic life, so I get

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by with very little. Sometimes, I miss my parents, and would love for my mom to come and give me some comfort food!

What is your typical day like at the Nilgiris?

I am up at 5:30 a.m., and do a little bit of yoga and meditation. Then by 6:30 a.m. - 7:00 a.m., I head into the reserve, record any sightings, and shoot most of the time. There are a lot of students who come and study with me. I also run this initiative called Green Gurukul, and our goal is to create a litter-free biosphere.

We have adopted a lot of villages around the forest and have signed up with the government to clear litter from the root.

We work with the local people and forest guards, and every Sunday, around 25 families get together for this project. This is completely voluntary. Otherwise, my days are spent walking through the forest with my tracking dog, camping in parts of the forest, and learning to recognise sounds and smells from a distance.

My tribal people taught me this, a very important survival skill in the jungle.

Having been in both the corporate jungle and the real jungle, what has been the most important lesson you have learnt?

From my experience in the corporate world, and I include myself here, I realised that once we achieve a certain financial stability in our lives, we tend to lose our focus on the basic values of respect and a certain sense of arrogance creeps in.

As part of Green Gurukul, we undertake weekend patrolling, to control the littering that happens on the national highway that connects Bandipur and Ooty. Despite various signs, people don’t respect the wildlife around them. We need to conserve nature to conserve the human species as well. Every form of life plays a role and the responsibility rests with us. I was arrogant too, and I have learnt it the hard way. From spending Rs. 20,000 on a pair of shoes, to now living an entire month on that amount!

It’s about understanding and respecting wildlife. We need to conserve it to conserve the human species as well.

Every form of life plays a role and the responsibility rests with us.

What does being a wildlife photographer mean to you?

To get an opportunity to observe nature and the ability to be able to capture it onto a frame that stays forever is very dear to me. You see a lot of things when you immerse yourself in the forest.

Today, the tiger is the most talked about.

I don’t think it is right to concentrate on just one species. We need to look at habitat conservation as a whole. I would never show my tiger images to anybody because I believe every species needs to be given importance. What needs to happen is for the bureaucracy to change its way of thinking and to open up to experiences. We need to encourage youngsters. So many 21-year-olds have such brilliant ideas and given the right support we could change so much. That’s what being a wildlife photographer means to me, to be at the centre of things and effect change.

As a city-bred girl, how do you reconcile with danger?

Recently, about three months ago, five of us – three students, a yoga guru and myself – went down looking for snakes.

This is a hilly terrain and the visibility factor is minimal. Also, Lantana, a weed, has taken over the jungle. It is full of small thorns that creep into your skin and you can’t see anything. Suddenly, my dog sighted two elephants. It was eight to ten metres away from us. One of my students wanted to take a closer shot, and stepped on a dry twig. The elephants turned and smelt us. Without any warning, without even a mock attack, they charged at us.

We ran without thinking and I fell into a Lantana bush. My guru saw one of the elephants coming my way and threw me

To know more about Green Gurukul, write to vasuchakravarthi@gmail.com 10

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to the other side. A moment later the elephant came into view. Had I been there a moment longer, I would have simply been trampled. I still have thorns in my skin, by the way. So danger is now simply a way of life.

How would you order these when it comes to taking a photograph – composition, subject matter, instinct?

Instinct is very important for any photographer. I always listen to my inner feelings and thoughts. It is only after that the rest follow. If there is a tiger in front of me, I need to listen to my instincts and feel comfortable. I need to see if I am safe, and know if the moment is right. Only then can I look at the light source, move around my subject without disturbing it and create my composition.

You are described as India’s only female wildlife photographer. Does the epithet bother or inspire?

I am actually not the only female wildlife photographer; I don’t know where this title came from. There is Radhika Ramaswamy, a bird photographer, and I am sure there are several woman researchers living in the jungle. To answer your question, the title doesn’t affect me at all. If it does, then it’s a problem.

What are the three things every human being entering the forest, for whatever reason, needs to keep in mind?

Do not enter the forest without prior permission; do not feed animals or litter, or disturb wildlife in any way and don’t try to make the animals human by changing their roots (we found a Lays chips packet inside the stomach of a dead spotted deer).

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Past Tens S u san P hi l ip

Poet, writer, artist, playwright, musician, lyricist, and more – it’s difficult to concise this doyen of literature’s life and the author of India's national anthem, into a limited number of words, but this is our humble tribute

Rabindranath Tagore

Rabindranath Tagore at his painting desk, Government School of Art, Calcutta 1932 photo courtesy www.oldindianphotos.in

Birth Chart: He was Debendranath Tagore and Sarada Devi’s youngest son. He was born in Calcutta on May 7, 1861, and was named Rabindranath.

Growth Spurt: Rabindranath grew up in a progressive atmosphere where theatrical performances and music concerts were regularly held and literature and philosophy were common topics of conversation. He was tutored at home on subjects ranging from Bengali to English, Science to Sanskrit, and the Romantic poets to the Hindu Scriptures. He joined University College, London, to become a barrister, but returned without completing his degree.

Family Ties: Rabindranath’s grandfather was known as ‘Prince’ Dwaraknath, and he was on visiting terms with Queen Victoria! His father Debendranath was one of the prime forces behind Bengal’s socio-

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religious reform movement called Brahmo Samaj. One of his brothers was the first Indian admitted to the elite Indian Civil Service, and most of his other siblings were poets and writers in their own right.

Word Power: He wrote his first poem when he was just seven. After that, prose followed poem, and story followed play. His humungous body of work includes novels, essays, humourous pieces and travel diaries.

He wrote mostly in his native Bengali. Gitanjali, meaning ‘offering of songs’ was the first collection of his poems to be published in English, which created a literary sensation in the West.

Brush Strokes: Rabindranath also used paints as a powerful medium of expression. He composed music and lyrics for around two thousand songs, which are collectively known as Rabindrasangeeth. Economics, science and education were among his other interests.

Prized Prize: In the year 1913, Rabindranath Tagore was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature. He was the first non-Westerner to have this honour.

No Sir! In 1915 he was knighted by King George V of England. Four years later, at Jallianwala Bagh, Punjab, a British officer ordered his soldiers to fire on thousands of men, women and children gathered in peaceful protest.

The carnage was beyond belief. Rabindranath made his personal statement of protest by renouncing his knighthood.

Back to School: The young Rabindranath had chaffed at the Western brand of education. He started a school at Shantiniketan, incorporating the best facets of India’s age-old Gurukul system of learning. It subsequently got university status. Indira Gandhi, who went on to become Prime Minister of India, and Satyajit Ray, doyen of Bengali cinema, are among its famous alumni.

Full Circle: In 1937, Rabindranath took ill. The next five years were a time of suffering and pain, but he managed to continue to write. Finally, on August 7, 1941, the end came, at Jorasanko, in the house where he was born.

Fun Facts: Tagore wrote some of his early work under the pseudonym ‘Bhanusimha’ meaning Golden Lion. He dressed in long, flowing robes, and had a long, flowing beard to match, of which he was rather proud!

He is the only person to author national anthems of two countries – India’s and Bangladesh’s.

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Short Message Service S aritha R ao

Khasi g Showcasin aspects of re in Indian cultu tible easily diges snippets

Ganjifa Cards

photo courtesy: ganjifacards.blogspot.in by Madhurima singh

GANJIFA (gan-jee-faa) are circular hand-painted playing cards of Persian origin, introduced to India presumably by the Mughals. Over time, the number of cards in a set increased and Hindu mythological themes like the Dashavatara (the ten incarnations of Vishnu) began to be depicted.

Typically, the card base is prepared with layers of cloth glued together and dried before being cut into circles. A coat of lime plaster is applied and once dry, the figures relevant to the theme of the set are painted on with lacquer colours. Usually, the backgrounds are darker so the intricately illustrated miniature figure in the foreground stands out. The prepared card is then varnished. The size of the cards varies between two inches and four inches, and each set is made up of 120 evenly-sized round cards.

These playing cards are also decorative, and it is not uncommon for collectors to display cards from various parts of India, like Maharashtra, Karnataka, Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, where the art flourished.

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KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI KHASI

KHASI

KHASI (khaa-see) is the official language of the north-eastern Indian state of Meghalaya, with 1,128,575 Khasi speakers according to the 2001 Indian census. It is also spoken in parts of Assam and Bangladesh. The language has a rich oral tradition of songs and folklore, some of which has been forgotten for lack of a script. It was up to missionaries like Wlliam Carrey, who arrived there in 1813, to create a script and introduce literacy. Thomas Jones, regarded as the Father of the Khasi alphabet, arrived in 1841 and set about putting together the First Khasi Reader with 21 alphabets in the Roman script. John Roberts, with his translation of religious texts and extensive language Readers, is considered the Father of Khasi literature. Well-known names in Khasi literature include Jeebon Roy Mairom and his son, Sib Charan Roy Dhikar, Rabon Singh, Radhon Singh and Soso Tham.

Dimsa Dance

photo Naomi Hattaway, usa

THE Dimsa dance, a community dance of the tribes inhabiting Araku Valley in Vishakapatnam, Andhra Pradesh, is graceful in its movements, as men and women hold hands behind their backs, tracing patterns in a circle or a snake-like ‘S’ formation, to the lively beat of traditional percussions. This group of women, in red, probably belonging to the Araku Valley, perform the Dimsa at the annual Surajkund Mela in Delhi. It is a celebration of Indian culture, with numerous stalls showcasing handicraft, cuisine and performing arts from across India.

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Kabaddi KABADDI (ka-bad-dee) is a team sport with seven to ten players in each team on court and a few in reserve. The court is divided into two sides, each team dominating a side until the break when they swap sides for the second half of the match.

If Team A wins the toss, they send out a 'raider' whose objective is to touch as many of Team B's players as possible and return to his side within 30 seconds, all while chanting the word 'kabaddi' over and over again. Team B's defenders try to contain him on their side of the court. If the Team A player is not able to return to the Team A court, he is declared out and the defending side gets a point. If the Team A player manages to return, he gets a point and the Team B player he touched has to exit the game. The side with the highest points wins the match.

Kabaddi is presumed to have originated in India. It is also known as Chadugudu and Hu-tu-tu, and its variations are played across South Asia. It is the national game of Bangladesh. photo courtesy L&T Construction

Mysore Devaraja Market

photo padraic koen, australia

THERE have been at least two fires here, and a section of the roof has given way at least once before, but the Devaraja Market continues to thrive as the nucleus of the commercial hub in Mysore, Karnataka. The market has a rectangular plan, with many entrances and two distinct arches in the north and south. The Dufferin Clock Tower, locally called the Chikku Gadiyara (small clock), stands opposite one of the entrances to the market. All the requirements of everyday life, from vegetables, fruits and flowers to woks, clocks and medicines are available in and around the market. There are bakeries, medical stores and fancy shops on the periphery of the market, facing outwards, still in business after decades. Strands and garlands of the famous Mysore Mallige (jasmine flowers) are available in the flower stalls here. Sadly, leading off the market nothing exists of the streets evocatively called Onduvarane Galli (Oneand-a-half Anna Street) and Nalakuaane Galli (Four-Annas Street), perhaps named after the price of the merchandise available on that street in the days of yore.

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Ponduru Khadi

photo Carol haynes, usa

PONDURU (pon-du-ru), in Srikakulam district of the southern Indian state of Andhra Pradesh, is known for its handwoven Khadi dhotis made of fine cotton. Khadi (khaa-dee) is the name given to hand-spun and hand-woven fabric, either cotton, silk or wool. Mahatma Gandhi promoted Khadi as part of his movement for Swadesh (self-sustenance) during the Indian freedom struggle. The cotton sourced for Ponduru Khadi is the short-staple hill variety. The Khadi and Village Industries Commission refers to this cotton as being 100% eco-friendly as the crop is grown without fertilisers. Normally, in creating the yarn, the process of loosening the seeds from the fluff of the cotton is carried out mechanically. However, in Ponduru, even this is done by hand using a rather unique instrument – the jaw of a locally available river fish! Once the seeds are separated from the fluff, the yarn is spun on a spinning wheel. The weaving then takes place on a handloom. The fabric is famous for its fine texture, which is attributed to the process of hand spinning and weaving. Here's a bit of interesting trivia: Congress President Sonia Gandhi usually wears a Ponduru Khadi sari!

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A to Z of India S u san P hi l ip

The Wild Bunch

INDIA is the land not just of tigers, snakes and elephants but of an overwhelming array of flora and fauna that make it a naturalists’ paradise. To enumerate them all is near impossible, but we’ve put together a sampling of creatures that call this part of the world home.

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C

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Asiatic Lion: This is one of the seven sub-species of lions in the world. The Gir Forest in Gujarat is the last remaining natural habitat of this majestic animal. Conservation programmes have taken their count up from about a dozen at the end of the 19th century, to around 360 in 2005.

Black Buck: The graceful Black Buck were at one time hunted with impunity, so much so that they’re now found only in small pockets, including in the Guindy National Park in Chennai, and on the lands of Rajasthan’s Bishnoi tribe. It is the state animal of Andhra Pradesh.

Cobra: One of the deadliest of snakes. The distinctive hood, which it raises on perceiving a threat, has a spectacle pattern on the back, and hence the name Spectacled Cobra.

It is associated with the Hindu Pantheon, particularly Lord Shiva, and is also worshipped as a deity.

Gaur: The largest species of wild cattle, it is also called the Indian bison. Only the tiger and crocodile have been known to successfully hunt a gaur.

When faced with a tiger, a gaur herd goes into phalanx formation and advances menacingly towards the enemy, which often retreats!

Himalayan Wolf: A rare and beautiful animal, it has adapted to the mountain snows. Researchers say only a minuscule population exists in the wild. The Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary in Himachal Pradesh offers some protection to this diminishing species.

Indian Giant Squirrel: This dark brown, tan and beige animal is a delight to the eye, provided you catch sight of it – it’s timid and shy. These squirrels build globe-like nests high up on trees, usually with separate living quarters for their young ones! You find them in Peninsular India.

Dhole: Otherwise known as the Indian Wild Dog, this animal can whistle, mew, cluck and even scream!

Diminishing habitat has placed it on the endangered list. Dhole can be found south of the river Ganga, in the northeastern states and in West Bengal.

Jungle: The very word is from India! It comes from the Hindi ‘jangal’ meaning forest, wasteland or uncultivated land, and the Sanskrit version, ‘jangala’ meaning an arid area with a sparse distribution of trees.

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Elephant: This usually gentle giant is often taken to be India’s national animal. Once a part of royal stables, it still lends its strength to forest-related activities, and adds a touch of grandeur to temple rituals. The Indian elephant is a little different from its African cousins – the ears are smaller, for instance.

Flamingo Colony: India’s natural habitat also plays host to myriad visitors, like the flamboyant pink flamingos. About half a million of them drop by while travelling from hotter climates to cooler places. A lake near Khavda in Gujarat is ranked as the world’s largest flamingo colony.

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Kashmir Stag: The state animal of Jammu and Kashmir, this beautiful creature is now found only in the Dachigam National Park in the state. It is one of the most endangered animals of the sub-continent. Also known as the Hangul, the males have spectacular antlers, some with as many as sixteen points!

Langur: The Grey Langur is considered sacred because of its association with Hanuman, the monkey god. Legend goes that the langurs came to help Hanuman when he was trapped in a fire, and in the process got burnt, accounting for their black faces and hands.

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Mugger Crocodile: These olive green reptiles inhabit India’s lakes, rivers and marshes. It’s the most common of all the crocodile varieties in India. They can move amazingly fast on land as well as in water, so … ‘Never smile at a crocodile!’

Nilgiri Thar: Tamil Nadu’s state animal, these stocky, goatlike animals are domiciles of the Nilgiri Hills and the Western Ghats. Another endangered species, it is sometimes referred to as the Nilgiri Ibex. The Eravikulam Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala offers it some protection.

Travancore Tortoise: A forest dweller, this species of tortoise is large – it measures up to 13 inches in length. Its numbers are dwindling because of hunting and depletion of its natural habitat. The species is classified as ‘vulnerable’.

Unique animals: The Indian subcontinent has several species of flora and fauna that are endemic to it. This list would be incomplete without names like the Great Indian Bustard, the Khur, the Pygmy Hog, the Madras Tree Shrew, Whitaker’s Boa, the Malabar Flying Frog, the Manipur Barb and the Jumping Ant.

One-horned Rhino: This magnificent beast could once call the entire Indo-Gangetic Plain its homeland. It is now confined to small pockets of the north-eastern states and neighbouring Nepal, due to relentless hunting and encroachment of their natural habitats.

Vulture: Once ubiquitous in India, they were not paid much attention due to their association with death, till conservationists woke up to the fact that their numbers were sharply falling as a result of feeding on carcasses of cattle treated with the drug diclofenac. Captive breeding programmes are under way.

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Peacock: This beautiful creature, India’s national bird, needs no introduction. If you’re fortunate enough to see a peacock spread out its tail and go through its elaborate courtship dance, it’s a sight that will remain forever etched in your memory.

Wonderful Parachute Spider: If you’re one among those who consider spiders beautiful, then you’ll love this particular species because of its dramatic colouring. It can now be found only in a very restricted area in West Bengal.

Quail: You can consider them ‘common’ in India; they’re farmed and valued for both meat and eggs. But some varieties are really rare. A few, like the Himalayan Mountain Quail, are even feared to be extinct.

X-tinctions: They’re the nightmare of any naturalist.

Several names have already disappeared from the wild list – like the Asiatic Cheetah and the Pink Headed Duck. Many others are on the verge of vanishing, such as the Malabar Civet, the Pondicherry Shark, the Forest Owlet and the Fire Corals.

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Red Panda: A native of the Himalayan ranges, this animal is nocturnal. It has red and white markings and a long, bushy, ringed tail. Red Pandas are shy, solitary creatures, and prefer to spend their time in the trees. They’re an endangered species.

Sarus Crane: This gangly bird, said to be the world’s tallest, is India’s only resident crane. It can stand as tall as a man, the male growing up to six feet in height. The National Aeronautical Laboratory has named the first multipurpose civilian plane it designed in the Light Aircraft category ‘Saras’, the Sanskrit word for Crane.

Yellow-throated Bulbul: A shy bird, it prefers to hide in the scrub, and startle you with its sudden, cackling calls! It lives in the Eastern and Western Ghats. If you’re a keen birdwatcher, you just may be able to glimpse one at lessfrequented hill stations like Nandi Hills in Karnataka or Yercaud in Tamil Nadu.

Zebra Loach: This stunning fish is native to India. They live in fresh water and are suitable for ornamental aquariums. They’re normally peaceable, have no special requirements and are easy to keep.

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Feature S u zanne M c N ei l l

Cats Reservoir

William Blake might have immortalised tigers in his famous poem, The Tyger, but words can never replace the raw power of seeing a tiger in the flesh.

Probably the reason why India, often called the Land of the Tiger, chose this majestic cat as its national animal

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Tadoba National Park, Jaipur

Photo: preeti seshadri, india

The tigress, indifferent to all of us, came through the trees. Everyone fell silent. Like the nilgai, she walked at an angle to us, calmly crossed the track in front, scent-marked… She was so close. Her bright shoulders moved loosely in a film-star slouch. So red and extraordinary, black stripes moving over shifting copper. Cameras clicked like an audience at the Vatican.1 THE writer Ruth Padel, touring a tiger reserve, captures the awe evoked on seeing a tiger in the wild, the sense of power and the dazzling presence of the beast. Not only do tigers have a mythical hold over us but they are also elusive, surprisingly well camouflaged and rare.

Padel’s sighting took place at Ranthambore, one of India’s 42 National Parks. These protected sanctuaries are spread across the country and offer a fascinating diversity of landscape, animal, bird and plant life. Most are open from October to April, during which period the vegetation will change from post-monsoon lushness to the desiccation of the hot, dry season as summer begins. Sightings are a hit or miss affair so it’s advisable to spend several days visiting a reserve, and whilst the landscape might not be so picturesque, the dry season offers more sighting opportunities as the lack of water entices animals out. Tigers hunt early morning or late evening, and have incredibly sensitive hearing: if you see a tiger, it’s long after it’s already sensed, heard and seen you. However, the tigers within the Parks are used to being viewed by visitors, having grown up with vehicles and trained elephants.

Visitors tour the Parks in open four-seater ‘gypsies’ or in groups in the larger ‘canters’ or buses, and some Parks offer elephant rides, which can increase the chance of seeing animals that prefer the cover of undergrowth.

The drivers know the tracks favoured by tigers and the time of day they pad along them. They scan the tracks for pug marks and respond to the alarm calls of nearby animals. If the dark shape of a tiger is spotted, there can be a rush of vehicles converging on the same spot, but be there four or fifty human viewers, the fear, power and inspiration evoked by the presence of the tiger is tangible.

A Brief History of Conservation in India How did the tiger reserves come into being? The tiger has been hunted by man for centuries and this was considered a princely and courageous sport by the maharajas. However, it was the trophy-hunting of the British in India that turned the hunt into an industrial slaughter, with estimates that 160,000 tigers were killed between 1800 and 1950. In more recent times, the tiger has had to contend with the eradication of its habitat as forests were felled for timber, and the encroachment of humans and livestock on what remains. It is estimated that there were 1,700 tigers in India in 2010, but that their area of habitat had shrunk by 20% in the preceding five years.

The tide of opinion turned. Hunting was banned at the beginning of the 1970s, and Project Tiger was initiated by the Indian government in 1972, believed to be a personal project of former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. This was launched at the sanctuary run by Jim Corbett, himself a hunter-turned-conservationist, with the aim of providing safe havens for tigers and recovery of habitat for all the animal population within the project zones, each with a buffer area where land use is shared but oriented

towards conservation work. Project Tiger began across nine reserves and had increased to 28 by 2006. The 42nd reserve was opened last year in Andhra Pradesh.

Heroes of Tiger Conservation in India Conservation work in India is promoted by a host of international organisations and NGOs, but the main work on the ground has been undertaken by articulate and committed individuals within India itself. Here are some of those heroes: Billy Arjan Singh (1917–2010) Born into a princely, land-owning Sikh family, Singh was a keen huntsman in his youth but experienced a lifechanging sense of revulsion on the killing of a young leopard. Converted to the cause of big cat protection, he created the Dudhwa National Park within a landscape of forest and grassland on the Nepalese border. Here, Singh lived and worked as an unpaid warden, raising leopards and tigers uncaged in his home, and encouraging them to return to the wild. Aged 88, Singh was the recipient of the J. Paul Getty Wildlife Conservation Award in acknowledgement of a lifetime’s work.

Valmik Thapar (born 1952) India’s foremost conservationist, Thapar is a natural historian, author and documentary filmmaker who came to prominence through his stewardship of the Ranthambore Foundation.

He is an outspoken advocate for the protection of forests in India as the key to conserving wildlife and water supplies and for sustainable and transparent models of wildlife tourism. He has called for tigers to be given ‘inviolate space’, believing it is not possible for man and tiger to live together, and for the engagement of local people to protect not exploit wildlife.

P K Sen (born 1941) P K Sen is a passionate champion of the tiger and he has worked most of his life in the forests of Bihar, where his photo Nathalie desire to protect nature Jauffret, and wildlife france habitats led to his appointment as Director of Project Tiger (now retired), and the Sanctuary Lifetime Service Award in 2002. Sen continues to call for the empowerment of ordinary forest guards and rangers and respect for their local and accumulated wisdom.

Dr Ullas Karanth (born 1948) Dr Karanth is an internationally respected conservation zoologist, writer, teacher and leading tiger expert. He is based in Karnataka and is Director of the Wildlife Conservation Society India programme. He develops conservation models, with emphasis on the mitigation of human–wildlife conflict, and has pioneered the use of camera trapping for field survey assessments of tiger populations.

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Photo: Elaine Wood, Australia

Ranthambore National Park, Jaipur

Photo Elaine Wood, Australia

Kaziranga National Park, Assam

Location: Eastern Rajasthan Size: 400 sq km Best time to visit: October - March Other wildlife: Leopards, boars, langurs, chital, nilgai, jackals, sloth bears

Mudumalai National Park, Jaipur Photo Elaine Wood, Australia

The Central Empowered Committee (CEC) The CEC was created by the Supreme Court of India in 2002 with a remit to protect and manage India’s natural heritage in the face of continuing misuse of forestland, such as illegal road building and construction work.

Popular Tiger Reserves in India Tiger tourism is the main draw for the reserves, but there’s a lot more to experience. Away from the hubbub that tends to congregate around the gates, the visitor moves into landscapes that are timeless and unspoiled, and where the air is clear and still. Early morning and twilight visiting hours mean that visitors are ideally placed to witness sunrise and sunset, and many of the Parks are bird-watching paradises.

All this is plentiful reward, surpassed only when a silhouette of the tiger is glimpsed through the scrub. Here are some of the popular reserves.

Ranthambore National Park Formerly the private hunting reserve of the Maharaja of Jaipur, Ranthambore is India’s most popular and atmospheric Park. The Aravali and Vindhya mountain ranges meet here and the landscape at Ranthambore is one of the last sizeable swathes of verdant bush in Rajasthan. The Park is dotted with rivers, lakes, pavilions and decaying palaces and at its heart is the tenth-century Chauhan Fort. It is claimed that Ranthambore offers the most possibility of seeing tigers during the daytime, so accustomed are they to visitors.

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Kaziranga National Park Kaziranga in north-east India is a World Heritage site located on the southern bank of the Brahmaputra River beneath the Karbi Anglong hills. Its savannah-style ecology is intricately linked to the annual flooding of the river, which recharges the grassland and wetlands. Kaziranga’s main attraction is India’s one-horned rhino, and the preservation of this great beast has been a huge success story at the Park. However, it is also believed to have one of the most dense tiger populations in India too, as well as numerous other species and a magnificent bird population.

Location: Assam Size: 430 sq km Best time to visit: November - April Other wildlife: One-horned rhino, elephants, deer, bears, leopards, primates, pelicans Kanha and Bandhavgarh National Parks Kanha was one of the original participants in Project Tiger and its forests provided inspiration to Rudyard Kipling for The Jungle Book stories. These are the deciduous forests of the Banjar and Halon Valleys that form the two halves of the reserve around a landscape of open grassland, hills and rivers. A particular attraction is Bamni Dadar, or ‘sunset point’, which provides an awe-inspiring backdrop to the reserve. Bandhavgarh too has an impressive setting, deriving its name from an ancient fort the ruins of which can still be seen in a landscape dotted with prehistoric caves.

Location: Madhya Pradesh, Size: 940 sq km and 437 sq km Best time to visit: January to April Other wildlife: Leopards and other jungle cats, sloth bears, dhole (wild dogs), jackals, swamp deer, gaur (wild cows)

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Tadoba National Park Densely forested hills form the north and west boundary of this lesser known reserve, which has a rugged and ancient landscape once ruled by the Gond kings and held as hunting grounds until 1935 before being turned into a sanctuary.

Tadoba is said to offer the perfect jungle experience, and the Park hosts a wide biodiversity of flora and fauna. Tadoba’s name derives from the God ‘Taru’, who according to local mythology was killed during an epic war with a tiger. Tadoba is open all year round, and reports of tiger sightings are on the increase.

Location: Maharashtra Size: 116 sq m Best time to visit: February to May Other wildlife: Leopards, sloth bears, Indian marsh crocodile, migratory birds, chital and gaur Bandipur, Nagarhole and Mudumalai National Parks These parks together form the largest protected area in southern India. Bandipur was Maharaja Voodiyar’s private hunting ground until 1941 and is noted for its beautiful and varied fauna, particularly its sandalwood trees. Nagarhole, ‘Cobra River’, is divided from Bandipur by the River Kabini, which has been dammed to form an artificial lake. During the dry season, the lake dries leaving an open plain of fresh grassland that attracts many herbivores. Mudumalai in the Nilgiri Hills has a strategic position as a wildlife corridor between these other protected areas and was declared a tiger reserve in 2007.

Location: Karnataka and Tamil Nadu Size: Together with Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, the area covered by these Parks totals 2,180 sq km Best time to visit: All year round, best in the dry season Other wildlife: Elephants, leopards, dhole, jackals, langurs, wild boar, peacocks

reserves (as designed in the newly opened Kawal sanctuary Alan Dougans, in Andhra Pradesh) and moves to givephoto local communities a usa direct stake in the tiger’s protection.

The forest in India’s great Sanskrit epic ‘The Mahabharata’ is represented as a place of renewal, and the poet understood this need for interaction: Do not cut down the forest with its tigers and do not banish the tigers from the forest. The tiger perishes without the forest, and the forest perishes without its tigers.2

Tadoba National Park, Jaipur

Photo preeti seshadri, india

Ranthambore National Park, Jaipur

Current Issues and Future Initiatives There is still much to resolve in terms of tiger conservation and the role of the reserves. Wildlife experts are aware of the pressure to reconcile the needs of villagers and their livestock with the demands of conservation, as well as development projects as India’s economy booms. Poaching is a massive problem within the reserves as the demand for tiger parts from China and tiger skins from Tibet offers substantial reward to criminals. The reserves have also been beleaguered by disputes over the methods of counting their tiger populations, and perhaps a lack of scientific rigour, whilst recent reports have suggested that rather than securing the viability of the tiger, poor management of tourism infrastructure has added to the depletion of landscape and disrupted wildlife movements. Initiatives to counter these worries include the creation of forest corridors between

1 Ruth Padel, Tigers in Red Weather, Abacus, 2005, pp. 73–74 2 Mahabharata, Dyogaparvan 29, verses 47–48 Photo Elaine Wood, Australia 24

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In your Kitchen H arini S ankaranara y an

coast effective There is something very easy-going about the Konkanis, a coastal community of India, a quality that is reflected in their unique cuisine

SUSHEELA KAMATH really started appreciating Konkani food only after she tasted her mother-in-law’s cooking. Having spent most of her unmarried years up north, her palate had got used to complex spice combinations and the fiery hotness of the chilli. Konkani food, in comparison, was simple to the point of blandness.

“Somehow, my mother-in-law made me appreciate the very simplicity that I did not care for. Suddenly I could taste the real flavour of the vegetables and learn to love the clean, fresh flavours.”

The Konkanis are thought to have migrated from near the source of the mythological Saraswathi River. With such close Kashmiri connections, their fair skin and light eyes almost seem like an anomaly along the Western coast where they eventually settled. While some of the migrants settled down on the Gujarat and Maharashtra coast, many moved even further south to the Karnataka, Goa and the Kerala coast. As a result they never really developed a written script; only a spoken dialect – Konkani. Their food too reveals influences from all these regions, yet simplified to retain the integrity of the ingredients used.

It would not be too surprising to find a Hindu, Christian or a Muslim Konkani and depending on the religion, the Konkani could be a pure vegetarian or the diet could include fish, chicken or even pork. However, the love of one ingredient forms a common thread through the entire cuisine – the ever present coconut. It can be found grated fresh over simply steamed vegetable like a Cabbage Upkari, where the cabbage is steamed till it just starts turning translucent and flavoured with whole mustard seeds. In a Randayi, the coconut is roasted before it is ground with chillies to form a gravy for either vegetables or meat. A Sukke, on the other hand, is very similar except the roasted coconut is powdered to make a dry preparation. A stir fried or seared dish is a Talasami and a deep fried one is called a Kisumuri, while in a Pohdies, the prepared vegetable is rolled in semolina and deep fried.

“Not all Konkani dishes need to have coconut in it,” adds Susheela, a doctor by profession. “These days, people prefer to avoid coconut for health reasons. Though it compromises on the flavour, it certainly stands to gain on the cholesterol front.” Her personal favourite is a ridge-gourd, steamed with a touch of asafoetida and a hint of chilli, had with the staple steamed rice. For the textural element, Teekh Appolo, spicy pappad, is a nice accompaniment. “I could eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner, without any problems,” she says, the longing obvious in her voice.

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To most palates used to the liberal use of spice in Punjabi cuisine, one finds the use of spices discreet and few. There are never more than a couple of spices used in a dish. The idea is to be able to taste every single ingredient used and appreciate the bounty of nature.

Kokum is a souring agent from a purple berry indigenous to Konkani food.

Along with Bimbi (another sour fruit) and tamarind, it takes care of the sour element of the cuisine. The sweetness comes from jaggery or coconut palm sugar and the heat from the dried red chillies or the fresh green ones. One of the dishes unique to Konkan celebration is the cashew curry. Tender fresh nuts are steamed and served in gravy with rice along with various vegetables and a watery dal. For dessert, there is, of course, the coconut in another form.

Mashed with banana and steamed inside turmeric leaves or made into a kheer (rice pudding) with coconut milk and jaggery.

Did you know?

That India’s tennis champion, Leander Paes, is Konkani, and loves his Konkani fish curry?

That the Konkani last name Kamath has now become synonymous with restaurants serving vegetarian food?

That there are about 22 ethnic Konkani communities living in Mangalore?

PATHRADO RECIPE Ingredients

5 colocasia leaves* or cabbage leaves (if colocasia leaves are not available) 1/4 cup toor dal (split pigeon peas) 1 tea spoon urad dal (black gram without the skin) 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon rice 3/4 cup fresh/frozen coconut grated 1 teaspoon jaggery (molasses can be used as a substitute) 4 to 5 dry red chillies 1/2 teaspoon tamarind extract or paste (soak some peeled tamarind pods in hot water and squeeze well to extract pulp) Salt to taste Oil to sauté

Method

To make the paste • Soak the toor dal in water for about half an hour.

• Heat a teaspoon of oil and fry urad dal, red chillies, and coriander seeds till fragrant and golden.

• Grind this with the rice, coconut, tamarind extract, jaggery and salt without adding water to make a

thick paste (if required, add very little water) Preparing the leaves • Remove the thick veins of the colocasia leaves.

• With the help of a pestle, slightly flatten all the veins (this makes rolling and cooking easier).

• If using cabbage leaves, cut out the stem from the leaf Assembling the dish • Apply a thin layer of masala paste on the leaf.

• Place another leaf on the first leaf and repeat process till all the leaves have a masala coating on them.

• Roll them up like a Swiss roll • Cut with a sharp knife to thin rounds (they will resemble pinwheel sandwiches) and arrange them in a steamer.

• Steam them for around 15 min.

• Leave cooker/steamer for another 10 minutes before taking out the pinwheel discs. Serve with hot rice.

• Any left over pathrados are rolled in sooji/rava/semolina and shallow fried on the griddle (since they become a bit hard when refrigerated) and served as a tasty snack.

*Colocasia leaves are called Chembu Elai in the South and Arbhi Patha in the North.

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Good Food

Guide

Chennai’s first speciality food superstore, Gormei Market, is here!

GORMEI MARKET is the goto place for foodies with a flair for cooking. The brainchild of USreturned engineers, Anand and Sriram, Gormei Market houses some of the world’s best high-quality food products. Clean aisles, well-stocked and well-stacked shelves, and a proactive, non-intrusive staff, provide a hassle-free shopping experience, akin to world-class standards.

With close to 5,000 products on offer, you will find breakfast cereals of every kind, a spectacular range of sandwich spreads, coffee, tea, juices and other beverages, chips, chocolates, ice creams, cheese, Italian, Mediterranean and Mexican foods (both ingredients and readyto-eat options), products with an emphasis on health and nutrition, energy bars, desserts, sauces, and branded Indian staples like rice and dal. And nearly 15% of the products at Gormei Market are organic.

Brands like Barilla, Betty Croker, Hersheys, Sun Sweet, Kraft, Post, and Edgell line the shelves of this store, standing side-byside with Indian favourites like Amul and Dabur. They recently launched a large meat selection, with the best of both Indian and international choices, and plans are to launch a live cooking demo by experienced chefs using ingredients from the store.

Gormei Market’s flagship store is located at CIT Colony, Mylapore (behind Focus Gallery) and an express store at Gandhi Nagar, Adyar (beside Crimson Chakra).

Flagship store: No.6(29), 2nd Main Road, CIT Colony, Chennai 600004. Ph: 91-44-42172228/29 Express store: No.13(7), First Crescent Park Road, Gandhi Nagar, Chennai 600020.

Ph: 91-44-42657733

info@gormeimarket.com http://gormeimarket.com http://www.facebook.com/gormeimarket

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Look who's in Town benga l u r u

Weekend Special

Bert at one of his favourite weekend spots, Hampi

Belgian Bert Porteman, Flight Operations Support Director, India/ South and South-East Asia, Airbus, tells us how culturally diverse weekends in Bengaluru can be “BENGALURU is much greener than I thought; I expected the city to have a bit more concrete,” says Bert Porteman.

Once famed as India’s Garden City, Bengaluru’s concrete jungle might seem intimidating, but Bert says, “You can still find green spaces to hang out in.” Bert moved to Bengaluru last November, and despite the warning from fellow expatriates about the noise and density of people in the city, Bert still found the change overwhelming. “It is very intense. Except for a couple of hours in the night, the city never gets quiet. I am getting used to it though, it’s a part of life,” he says. An attitude that holds him in good stead as he explores other facets of the city during the weekends.

Weekends at Home The last 12 years I have been living in the South of France, and almost every weekend, I would go biking, or hiking in the mountains and explore the countryside. I love sports and being outside. In India, though, that has been replaced by cultural experiences. Culturally, India has more to offer and I find my weekend balance there.

My Pick in Bengaluru I would recommend a visit to Mysore; it’s quite close to the city. A visit to Hampi is good as well. A bit more tiring for the weekend, perhaps, as it is far from the city. A walk in Cubbon Park or Lal Bagh is always nice, followed by a visit to a temple and a good brunch in one of the restaurants, like Taj West End. 32

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India Weekend Tips The first would be to leave early, say 5 a.m. or 6 a.m., to avoid the traffic. Traffic is dense during the weekends. During the day on Sunday, the traffic is not so bad, but it becomes congested by late afternoon. So organise your day according to the traffic.

Don’t be afraid to take the train or bus in Bengaluru. I have travelled twice by the night sleeper bus to Hampi, and it was really comfortable, not too expensive, and well organised.

Experiential Moment During one of my first weekends in Bengaluru, there was the harvest festival, Pongal, being celebrated. My Indian neighbours recommended that I visit the Shiva temple to experience the ceremony. So I said okay and decided to visit this temple. As I was walking, I began asking people for directions and ended up going around in circles, till I realised, there wasn’t one Shiva temple as I originally thought, but tens of them! Finally, I never reached the temple my neighbours suggested!

Belgium Weekend Tips Belgium is a nice country with a lot of Middle Age history in its architecture. I would recommend a trip to my hometown, Bruges, which is one hour by train from Brussels. It is very old, very clean, with nice bars, restaurants and hotels. It’s a small place, where you can explore everything on foot or a bicycle.

Do keep in mind that we respect queuing, respect nature, and like to keep our surroundings clean.

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Look who's in Town d e l hi

Space Capers

Greek Cyrpiot Marina Marangos, who moved to Delhi in 2009 with her British husband, Charles Gilks, talks about the city’s unique spaces FOR Marina Marangos and her husband, living in India was a careful dream nurtured for 25 long years.

“We came to India as young students and fell in love with the colours and the people, and my husband has always dreamt of coming to work here. Finally, after 25 years, the job opportunity came up and we have been here ever since.” So, it is hardly surprising when Marina says her unique space is her home in Delhi. “I grew up in Cyprus and was brought up to live by the sea for about four months every year. Of course, Delhi is not by the sea, and I miss that, but this house comes closest to my unique space with a garden full of trees and birds and a swimming pool I can swim in. Clearly, there is karma at work here,” she says, before taking us on a tour of her new city’s unique spaces.

Delhi Calling Visit Chandni Chowk for an unparalleled adventure into old Delhi, the Kiran Nadar Museum of Modern Art in Saket South Mall for an experience of the exciting modern art scene, and the Sanskriti Kendra Museum of Indian artifacts, pottery and fabrics in Ghitorni, a haven of tranquillity in the mad urban Delhi scene.

Tips in Delhi Explore these spaces with someone you know and trust. Be sensible in the clothes you wear and show sensitivity to local customs. Don’t be flashy with jewellery.

Carry the minimum with you, though water and a camera are must-haves. If you have an Indian resident card, then you can get into a lot of the museums and venues on Indian rates, as opposed to expat rates.

Cyprus Calling When in Cyprus, hire a car and take in all that the island has to offer. Explore some of the archaeological remains like the Curium Amphitheatre, or the Royal tombs in Paphos, the mountain villages for their handicrafts, architecture and food, and some of the seaside towns, like Ayia Napa, Larnaca and Limassol.

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Tips in Cyprus Cyprus is a divided country, as a result of the Turkish invasion of 1974, and people visiting should be aware of this and be sensitive to the issues it raises. The people are hospitable, and there are no concerns about safety or health. The sun can be strong and the ouzo (liqueur flavoured with anise) will give you a headache the next day if you drink too much!

Marina, with her husband, Charles, at her home in Delhi

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Photo Location: THE HILTON, Chennai

Look who's in Town chennai

Pub Shots

Mari enjoys a drink at Hilton's Vintage Bank

Finn Mari Kontio, an elementary school teacher, talks of the pub culture in Chennai and how different it is from back home HAVING lived in Chennai for a little over a year, if there was one thing Mari Kontio would like to change about the city, it would be the Cinderella-hour in pubs. “We are not used to such deadlines in Finland, where pubs are open even till 4 a.m.! Sometimes, you wish you didn’t have to stop partying so early,” she says with a frown. But talk about the city and the frown quickly changes shape. “I am still amazed at the people, the culture and how radically different everything here is from Northern Finland, where I am from. Chennai is such a big city with so many people. Even the climate here is different!”

So here’s Mari’s version of Chennai’s nightlife, the dos and don’ts, the differences, and most importantly, the fun!

Home & Away The first difference is there aren’t too many pubs in Chennai. The second is the affordability. Everything here is about 40% cheaper than in Finland. And the fact that we have enough household help here, with maids and drivers, means we can go pubbing more often than back home.

My Pick My top choice would definitely be Zara Tapas bar on Cathedral Road. The atmosphere is pleasant, the food is good and the music is soft. 10 Downing Street in T Nagar is good as well. It is spacious and has a good range of food to order from. Another pub that I enjoy quite a bit is the one at 36

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the Hilton. It is small with light music and amazing snacks.

It is a brilliant place to just hang out with a small group of friends.

Expat Advice Keep an open mind. Pubbing in Chennai is completely different from anywhere outside India. Just like other bars elsewhere, do not leave your valuables anywhere unguarded.

Finally, I have noticed that it is quite common for Chennaiites to exchange phone numbers in pubs. Personally, I am slightly cautious with this habit, even though nothing untoward has happened to me. Sticking with friends always helps.

Pubbing Memory Only the most embarrassing memory comes to mind. I was dancing at a local pub with a friend when I ended up tearing my pants! Thankfully, I was wearing a long enough shirt and so, I spent the rest of the evening dancing with my back to the wall!

Partying in Finland It may come as a surprise for Indians but Finns drink quite a bit when they are in pubs. Another thing that you may need to be cautious about is pick-pocketing and people spiking your drink. It isn’t common but it helps to be wary. Also, if you are going out with a Finn, be prepared to stay out till 2 a.m. or 3 a.m.

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Look who's in Town m u mbai

Local Flavour Briton Moira Dickson tells you why it’s best to think local when it comes to your grocery list in Mumbai

SHE came to Mumbai, 18 months ago, as the Head of the Human Resources division in the Bank of America Merril Lynch. Starting this month, however, Moira Dickson begins a new journey in Mumbai through her NGO, Audience of One, which uses the performing arts of India to give expression and meaning to the voice of the lesser privileged. Originally from Edinburgh, Moira has travelled extensively, with her loyal companion and pet, Hamish. “I seem to have lived outside my home country much more than in it! Ten years in Hong Kong, twice in Sydney, three times in New York and now in India. In fact, I have been visiting India on work for the last 15 years,” she says, before giving us her mantra for life in Mumbai. “Think local for your everyday needs, and you will find that Mumbai is a city of things coming to you than you going out,” she adds.

Home & Away Back home, you have a Walmart or Azda or Sainsbury for all your daily things under one roof. In Mumbai, you do have the HyperCity in Malad as the equivalent. But what people prefer are the local markets for their daily needs. The good thing is that the food is much fresher; somebody is going to the market once or twice a day, and you get to eat by the season.

Must-Visit List Definitely Crawford Market! Don’t be afraid of it, and don’t be overwhelmed. It would be best to go with someone. Also, find your local market and stores for fresh food. And try Godrej’s mini supermarket, Nature’s Basket, for your imported food.

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Moira strikes a pose with her dog, Hamish, at Crawford Market

Expat Advice Don’t try to replicate what you have at home. Get yourself a water purifier like Aquaguard to wash your fruits and vegetables.

Get used to deciding on a daily basis what you will need from the market. Finally, don’t assume your house help knows the quality of food you eat. It would best to take them with you once or twice and show them which market and stores you like to visit.

Experiential Moment I went to my kitchen one day and saw my full-time helper cooking lunch with a little tub placed next to him. I thought that was strange, and when I picked up the tub, I knew instantly what was going on. My helper had read the word ‘salt’ on it and hadn’t realised they were actually perfumed bath salts! Thankfully, not too much of it was used!

Britain Bargain Indians in England will find everything they are used to, except, things will be Westernised. Try the individual Pakistani and Indian stores for local Indian brands. And be prepared for a shopping culture that relies on self-service rather than the more personalised touch in India.

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events CALENDAR MUMBAI

Kalaripayattu – Traditional Martial Arts Workshop August 3 to September 16 | 1900h to 2015h

Sumeet Nagdev Dance Arts, Unit No. 3, New Udyog Mandir – 2, Bhagoji Kheer Road, Mahim, Mumbai Sumeet Nagdev Dance Arts is hosting a seven-session workshop for anyone aged 12 and above.

The workshop will be on the basics of Kalaripayattu, a traditional Indian martial art form. Training in Kalaripayattu is known to lend itself to forms of dance while also doubling up as an excellent exercise regimen. The course costs Rs. 3,000. More details at http:// sumeetnagdevdancearts.in/

Photography Workshop

August 8 | 1900h to 2100h The Art Loft, Valentino Rest, 1st Floor, Next to Mehboob Studios, Bandra West, Mumbai Experienced photographer, Andrea Fernandes will handle four sessions on basic photography, giving participants a unique perspective to light, composition and exposure. You can check out her pictures at http:// andreafernandesphotography.com/ or contact the venue at http:// theartloft.co.in/site/contact/ or 0993048396 for registration details.

India International Jewellery Show (IIJS)

August 23 to 27 | 1000h to 1800h Bombay Convention and Exhibition Centre, Off Western Express Highway, Goregaon East, Mumbai The 29th edition of the India International Jewellery Show will be marked by more than 800 exhibitors, 1800 booths and over 30,000 estimated visitors. Organised by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), it has evolved into the official platform for showcasing India’s manufacturing abilities. IIJS is Asia’s second largest jewellery show and acts as a brilliant networking platform. Prior registration is recommended. More details at http://www.iijs.org/ 40

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For a slice of culture in Mumbai through Culturama’s pick of events this month

Shyam Rang – A Musical Event

August 8| 1900h Tata Theatre, National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA), NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai With the festival of Krishna Jayanthi round the corner, NCPA brings together big names in the field of Indian music.

With singers including Shankar Mahadevan (winner of several national awards) taking the stage, the primary theme of the music would be Lord Krishna and his life. Songs will be predominantly in Hindi, along with other regional languages. For more details, visit http://www.ncpamumbai. com or call 6622 3737.

Continental Special at Aroma Garden

August 1 to 10 | 1200h to 2300h Aroma Garden, 5-6, Dockyard Road, Near Dockyard Station, Mazgaon, Mumbai Aroma Garden is serving up a treat of special continental dishes including fish fingers in tartare sauce, nachos with cheese sauce and salsa, and much more!

In honour of Father’s Day, the event has been on since June 12. Catch the action before it is too late. For more details, call 23775752 or 9833586845.

Candle Making and Pottery Workshops August 23 to 27 | Every Wednesday, all month Lokhandwala Complex, Kandivali East, Mumbai, Kindles Pottery and Candle Making conducts one-day sessions every Wednesday and on weekends for women and children. If you enjoy working with clay or wax, this may just be the perfect course for you. For more details, call 9819625896 or e-mail kindlespotteryclasses@gmail.com

events CALENDAR DELHI

Kuchipudi Dance Recital August 3 | 1930h

Epicentre, Apparel House, Sector 44, Gurgaon On the occasion of the 36th anniversary of the dance school, Natya Tarangini (founded

by Drs Raja and Radha Reddy, exponents of the dance form), students will perform in honour of their teacher and their institute.

Kuchipudi is the classical dance form of Andhra Pradesh. For more details, visit www.epicentre.co.in

Painting Exhibition

August 1 to 15 | 1100h to 1900h Art Perspective, F/213 D, Lado Sarai, New Delhi – 110030, Ph: 011-40564889

For a slice of culture in Delhi through Culturama’s pick of events this month

Autism Movement Therapy® Certification International Workshop

August 4 and 5 | 0930h to 1530h Hotel Ramada Gurgaon Central, Sector 44, Near Huda City Metro Station, Gurgaon, Delhi SOCH with Autism Movement Therapy® (AMT) Inc, USA is organising a Certification International Workshop, incorporating movement and music with Positive Behaviour Supoprt (PBS) to assist people on the autism spectrum. This programme, conducted by founder, Joanne Lara, will help improve self esteem and achieve social and academic goals for children with difficulties. Priced at Rs 18,000. Call 40404160 for more.

World Ethnic Music Ensemble August 17 | 2100h

TLR Café, 31 Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi – 110016. Ph: 011-46080533

Art Perspective has invited artists from all over the country to present their work using the water colour medium to herald in the Delhi monsoons. Titled ‘Verve’, the paintings depict the various realities of India from villages to heritage sites. Even traditional Hindi poetry has found a voice in these paintings, beautifully portrayed in vivid colours.

The World Ethnic Music Ensemble was formed by musicologist Fakhroddin Ghaffari (an Iranian percussionist) and includes artists on the acoustic and electric mandolin, sitar, cello, tabla and guitar. Their music has influences from Arabic, Persian, Indian as well as Flamenco styles.

Apart from the regular artistes, guest singers add the English flavour to the troupe. More at http://www.tlrcafe.com

Drama – The Weekend Cocktail

India Fashion Summit

August 18 and 19 |1900h Alliance Francaise de Delhi, 72, Lodhi Estate, Delhi – 110003 The Weekend Cocktail, presented

by DreamTech, is a heady mix of three different literary marvels – Sholom Aleichem’s ‘Tevye Wins a Fortune’, Roald Dahl’s ‘Lamb to the Slaughter’ and W Somerset Maugham’s ‘Mr. Know All’. Directed by Ravi Raj Sagar, it has a running time of 95 minutes. For more information, visit http://www.dramatech.in/.

To book tickets, call 9810150991 or visit www.bookmyshow.com

August 31 |0830h to 2330h The LaLiT New Delhi, Barakhamba Avenue, Connaught Place, New Delhi-110001 With top Indian brands and designers on board the Summit, it promises a lot of action to anyone interested in the fashion industry. There will be a conference, fashion show, exhibition as well as a party, which will all be attended by designers and the who’s who of the city. For more details, contact 95825 32351.

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events

CALENDAR BENGALURU

Trek to Makkalidurga

August 4 and 5 | 2130h to 1100h Banglaore Mountaineering Club (BMC), No, 69, K. R. Garden, 3rd Main, Bank Colony, Murgeshpalya, Vimanapura Post, Bengaluru – 560017. E-mail: team@ bmcindia.org, Ph: 9902027262 Makkalidurga, 45 kilometres from Bengaluru, is known for its dilapidated fort walls replete with mythological stories. The mildly tedious trek is offset by the panoramic view of the hills.

Participation Fees: Rs.850 (includes Non A/C Transport, Breakfast, First aid kit, sleeping bags, instructor and miscellaneous charges). For more details, visit http://bmcindia.org/ events/night_trek_to_makkalidurga.htm

India International Salsa Congress 2012 August 17 to 19

Clarks Exotica, Swiss Town, Hollywood Junction, Sadahalli Post, Devanahalli Road, Bengaluru Over 45 international instructors, 60 workshops and participants from 30 countries contribute to the seventh edition of the Indian International Salsa Congress, directed by Lourd Vijay’s Dance Studio. Apart from some mind blowing performances, there are dance workshops for students, adults and children. For tickets and registrations, visit www. indianstage.in or call 42064969.

Barcamp Bangalore

August 25 | 0900h onwards

(Registration at 0800h) SAP Labs, #138, EPIP Zone, Whitefield, Bengaluru Five years after Bengaluru’s first Barcamp, the event will see multiple speakers discussing cutting-edge technology. Anyone interested can register and even ask for a session to speak! A malleable schedule allows for an uninterrupted flow of conversation. This is one of the most popular ‘unconferences’ in the country.

For more information, please visit http://barcampbangalore.org/bcb.

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For a slice of culture in Bengaluru through Culturama’s pick of events this month

Art Bengaluru 2012

August 10 to 19 UB City, # 24, Vittal Mallya Road, Bengaluru South India’s only Contemporary Art Festival is back! For the second consecutive year, it includes an art auction, a competition for children, workshops on music, dance and photography, as well as a continuous exhibition. For more information on the event and the schedule, please visit http://www.ubcitybangalore.in/ events/upcoming-page-1.html

The Hindu Metro Plus Theatre Fest 2012 August 23 to 26

Chowdiah Memorial Hall, 16th Cross, Park Extension, 2nd Main Road, Malleswaram The eighth edition of The Hindu Metro Plus Theatre Fest is back with more action, more drama and more entertainment. With plays from all over the country (and even one from Korea), the Fest will see one performance a day between August 23 and 26. Theatre enthusiasts in the city, gear up!

Park’s New Festival September 3 to 5

The Park, 14/7, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Bengaluru – 560042 and Chowdiah Memorial Hall, 16th Cross, Park Extension, 2nd Main Road, Malleswaram, Bengaluru A unique platform for emerging performance arts, this year participants will be witness to international choreographer, Akram Khan; to D’Lo, a queer Tamil Srilankan-American, political theatre artist/writer and Shankar Tucker of Shrutibox, an ongoing series of internet music videos composed and performed by him.

For more information, contact Prakriti Foundation at 66848484 or visit www.prakritifoundation.com

tamil nadu Let your spirituality soar

Best for August & September: Drive the temple trail along the Cauvery and Vaigai Rivers in Southern Tamil Nadu

milesworth holidays india • srilanka • maldives • and beyond

visit: www.milesworth.com Milesworth Travels & Tours Pvt. Ltd., 39 R M Towers, 108 Chamiers Road, Chennai. Tel: +91-44-24320522 / 24359554 Fax: +91-44-24342668 E-mail: holidays@milesworth.com culturama | august 2012

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events CALENDAR CHENNAI

Exotic Fusion Desserts August 1 onwards

Exotic Fusion Dessert Company has launched ‘Dial a Fusion Dessert’, the first-of-its-kind in the city. There is a wide array of Indian and Western desserts packed individually. The company requires 24 hours’ notice.

The minimum order is for 10 servings at Rs. 70 a serving and Rs. 60 a serving for 15 and above. This is a pick-up service. Contact 98840 52069/98402 28008 for orders.

The Hindu Metro Plus Theatre Fest 2012 August 10 to 12

Sir Mutha Venkatasubba Rao Concert Hall, No. 7, Harrington Road, Chetpet, Chennai – 31. Ph: 43561198 The Hindu Metro Plus Theatre Fest is back featuring plays from around the world. The eighth edition of this annual Fest brings together some of the best in world theatre, with one play each on August 10 and 11 and four on August 12. Like every year, the Fest promises to be a treat for theatre enthusiasts in the city.

Park’s New Festival

August 29 to September 2 | 1900h Museum Theatre, Pantheon Road, Egmore, Chennai – 8 and Sir Mutha Venkatasubba Rao Concert Hall, No. 7, Harrington Road, Chetpet, Chennai – 31. Ph: 044-43561198 A unique platform for emerging performance arts, this year participants will be witness to international choreographer, Akram Khan; to D’Lo, a queer Tamil Srilankan-American, political theatre artist/writer and Shankar Tucker of Shrutibox, an ongoing series of internet music videos composed and performed by him. For more information, contact Prakriti Foundation at 66848484 or visit www.prakritifoundation.com

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For a slice of culture in Chennai through Culturama’s pick of events this month

Krishna by Shobana

August 9 | 1830h onwards Narada Gana Sabha, TTK Road, Alwarpet Choreographed and performed

by Padma Shri Shobana, renowned classical dancer and national award-winning actress, this piece depicts the mythological journey of Lord Krishna. It traces his journey from birth, his upbringing with foster parents and his endearing childhood antics, to his rendition of the Bhagawad Gita in the middle of the battlefield in the Indian epic, The Mahabharatha. For tickets, log on to www.indianstage.in.

The Jungle in the Book

August 4 to 25 Tara Books, Book Building, No. 9, CGE Colony, Off Kuppam Beach Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Chennai – 41.

Tara Book House has excellent hand-crafted picture books for children, created by a dedicated team of writers and designers.

‘The Jungle in the Book’ is an interactive art exhibition for children, with workshops, discussions and seminars. Several other events occur in August as well. All events are free. For more details, visit www.tarabooks.com/ book-building. For registrations, call 4260 1033 / 2442 6696.

Madras Day Celebrations August 19 to 26 Various

The city’s founding day is considered to be August 22, 1639 when a sliver of land, where Fort. St. George stands today, was transacted by the East India Company. In 2004, a small passionate group of people decided to celebrate the city’s birthday with a set of events.

Today, it has expanded into a week-long celebration, with heritage walks,, workshops and film screenings. For more information, visit http://themadrasday.in/.

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Picture Story

P ra v eena S hi v ram

Culturama’s fiction series continues, capturing the quotidian of everyday life in India through stories behind the ordinary, the mundane, the forgotten and the invisible

Transformation HE HAD no mirrors in the house, except a small hand mirror, which he used when he shaved. Because, when Senthil looked into the mirror, he never saw his face – clean shaven, prominent bald patch, small eyes, slender nose, thin lips, Gandhi ears. He only saw Selvi.

He did try to make do without the mirror, but the nicks and cuts started to depress Selvi. He had to obey at least one of her desires. In return, all he asked was for Selvi to remain hidden. Every day, he had to battle with her constant presence. He didn’t have to even see her, he just felt her. Sometimes he wished she would just say something. Yet, he knew as much as she did that silence was a much more lethal weapon. It chipped away his resilience with the precision of a sculptor.

The cuckoo announced the time. It was half past eight; he had to head to work. He stood momentarily next to the half open door, pretending to find the right key (there were just two, one for the door, and one for the locker in their Godrej cupboard), and wondered if he should say something to Selvi instead to break the silence. Perhaps he will let her go out today. Like the one time they did. It was an unusually hot day, but they didn’t care. A movie, lunch at a popular restaurant and on a whim, a 20-minute photo session at the studio – they almost felt content, like a hungry man who had just had his fill. But it stayed at almost. They knew they would be hungry again.

He had met her for the first time 15 years ago. At his school’s farewell party, when the boys had to dress up as girls and the girls as boys. Senthil saw her almost immediately, shocked to even find her. His parents were dead, so he couldn’t ask them. He had no known

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relatives, or those he had, had disappeared a long time ago. He had grown up in a hostel all his life. And to think she had been studying with him all along! He accepted her immediately, he was even deliriously happy for a while, but regret and dread soon set in. And shame.

Shame at the truth of Selvi’s existence and shame at his own weakness. He locked the door resolutely.

He stepped out, careful to take one masculine step after another. Selvi had disturbed him. He fidgeted with his tie, his glasses that kept slipping down his nose, and his belt worn a little too tight against his exceptionally thin frame. He walked quickly to the bus stop and stood at the exact same spot as always, next to a beggar in tattered clothes rattling his tin can, and a rusted, halfopen electric box. He could smell stale urine from behind the box and freshly cut meat from the butcher’s shop behind him.

The bus arrived, heaving under the weight of the peak hour. Senthil hung on the sideboards for half the journey, till he found a place to sit. “Aey, mister, what do you think you are doing?” An angry, boisterous, middleaged woman bore down on him. “Can’t you read? LADIES SEAT!” she pointed. Senthil hastily got up, allowing the lady to sit down, and stood for the rest of the journey.

By the time he reached work he was exhausted.

He sat at his desk, too clean to be that of an accountant’s. He switched on his computer, but he was too distracted. He had to see Selvi. Why did she have such a hold on him? He opened his desk draw and under the piles of yellow and pink files, was a picture of Selvi, taken on their one day out. The laughter in her eyes, the evening breeze in her hair, and the sun in her smile…

photo ian watkinson, UK

this was Selvi. His Selvi. Suddenly, a rude hand thrust forward and snatched the picture away from him. The photograph exchanged hands, voices converged and diverged, making a neat little circle, the pointing fingers strangling him. He had to get away or the shame he had carefully kept inside him would erupt and consume photoso lee webb, usa him. He left the office and went to the only place he knew, to the place he should have gone a long time ago. This time, when he reached home, he didn’t fight her presence. He knew she had been waiting for him. He heard her speak, for the first time in years.

“Welcome home, Aravan.”

He looked deep into her eyes, and touched her hair.

He wasn’t ashamed anymore. He took out the lustrous wig from the locker in their cupboard, combed it gently and scented it with coconut oil. He placed the wig gingerly on her head, adjusting it to make sure it fit. He brought a thick strand of jasmine flowers from the fridge, and pinned it to her hair. He allowed her to change into the one expensive silk sari she owned, and watched as she meticulously put on her make-up. She looked beautiful.

They both smiled. Senthil spoke. “Would you like to go to Koovagam with me?”

Selvi nodded, staring back at him from the little hand mirror. Their reflections were one, the transformation complete. The Aravan had become the Aravani.

Footnote In Villipuram, Tamil Nadu, thousands of Aravanis (transgenders) gather at the Koothandavar temple for the annual Koovagam festival. Every year, Aravanis from across the country relive the mythological wedding of the warrior prince, Aravan or Koothandavar, to Lordphoto Vishnu in the guise of ingrid ritter, UK a woman, Mohini. According to legend, Aravan was to be sacrificed in war, and his last wish was to experience conjugal bliss for one night. At the festival, once the wedding celebrations are complete, Aravanis congregate the next day to mourn the death of Aravan by engaging in the elaborate ritual of widowhood. In the last few years, Koovagam has also become popular for its beauty pageant.

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Thought Leaders Yashas v ini R ajeshwar

A Class Apart Suresh Kumar, Distinguished Professor at George Washington University and till recently the head of USA’s export initiative, spoke exclusively to Culturama about the Indian education system, its American counterpart and what the two cultures can take away from each other

WHEN one professor can boast of associations with George Washington University and Princeton just as much as Hindu University, Delhi, and Bajaj Institute of Management Studies, Mumbai, you can be certain that he is an authority in the field of education. Add that to a role in the Obama administration, singlehandedly leading the country’s export initiative for two years, and you have a thought leader on education, governance, policy making and international relations, drawing heavily from personal experience over the years. “Whatever I am is because of teachers in India,” Prof. Suresh Kumar said. “In fact, the lessons I learnt as a student in India are to never accept what cannot be done, that India is the seed of ingenuity and if I can market here, I can market anywhere in the world.”

Prof. Kumar was recently at the India Immersion Centre at Global Adjustments addressing a gathering of educationists from the city. Prof. Kumar touched upon the concept of community colleges, a hot topic of conversation even during the recently concluded India-US Higher Education dialogue between Minister for Human Resource Development Kapil Sibal and US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. “Community colleges offer different subjects and have a separate fee structure altogether. They are affordable and ensure that everyone has access to education. In a country like India, however, the best way to tackle the problem of accessibility is by harnessing the power of technology.

Not everyone can benefit from exchange programmes and the like. We must seed critical thinking to ensure

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a good future for students during the Kindergarten to Grade 12 years itself. The demand for education is increasing, and it’s no more a privilege, but a right. And I do believe investing in technology is our solution,” he said.

A future-perfect solution indeed, although in a country like India, a more pressing issue would be the lack of quality teachers, and Prof. Kumar agrees. “We should not confuse this noble profession with charity.

There is definitely a cost for good quality education and that is the cost of good teachers. Also, the measure of good quality education should not be marks. Just like data is not the same as information, marks do not automatically lead to success. If education does not lead to employment, there is a gap in the system.

The only thing worse than an uneducated, unemployed youth is an educated, unemployed youth.”

Today, India has a demand for 800 universities and 35,000 colleges. Prof. Kumar believes in the dictum of “without the permission to fail, we cannot succeed” and urges educators to take control of the system, go a step beyond government regulations and mould an empowered future generation. In fact, his own personal motivation to join George Washington University was the opportunity to provide “relevant, robust and realistic education”. “Every time I stand in front of a class, it helps me clarify my mind. The people in front of me are businessmen who ask me pertinent clarifications and question my theories. When I am in the classroom, I learn more than I can give.”

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Seeing India EA ld aine oo d l d as iti MWanga

Tiger Trails TO SEE a tiger in the wild is an unforgettable experience. One I’d put near the top of my list of the ‘Wonders of the World’.

We were waiting for the overnight train from Agra to Jabalpur. From there it’s a rough road for several hours to the gloriously remote Kipling Camp in the buffer zone of the Kanha National Park. This lies at the geographical heart of India in the state of Madhya Pradesh.

The Jungle Book characters of Rikki Tikki Tavi the mongoose; Baloo the bear; and Bagheera the panther call Kanha home.

But the guy we were after was Shere Khan, the tiger.

We finally arrived thoroughly shaken and stirred by the bumpy ride. A soothing cup of tea and the call of the fish eagle floating above the drowsy warmth of the afternoon soon restored us. The camp, shaded by Sal trees consists of several cottages scattered around a central shamiana. The simple rooms are clean and comfortable. Tribal art hangs on the walls; mosquito nets cover the beds. Fans and air coolers are used in summer and heaters in winter. The shamiana is an open-sided bar/library/dining room/ campfire area and the heart of the house party that is Kipling Camp. Guests and the British gap year students working there dine together and on our trip there was a good mix of nationalities.

Later we set off for Kanha in an open Land Rover with Siddarth, the camp’s naturalist. The sudden alarm calls of langurs bouncing the tree top branches and the yelps of spotted deer alerted us to a tiger but she eluded us. Instead, we experienced the excitement of a pack of

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Looking for the yellowstriped warrior of the jungle leads to a fascinating encounter with Bob Wright, conservationist and founder of the Kipling Camp in Madhya Pradesh

dholes (wild dogs) out on a hunt. Our safari went through forest and open grassland where herds of spotted deer mingled with sambar and magnificent barasingha, one of the world’s rarest deer.

At sunset the sudden drop in temperature and the thought of a drink round the fire prompted our return to camp. We made straight for the bar and wondered why our fellow guests had disappeared. It was soon apparent that we uncouth Aussies were the only ones not to have changed for dinner. Ah well, what to do but have another drink and a chat with Bob Wright, our charming octogenarian host and founder of Kipling Camp.

Several pink gins later we’d heard about Bob’s idea to re-introduce the Asiatic Cheetah to India. Records show that the last cheetahs were shot in the 1950s by a royal hunting party. But a closely related species is still found in Iran. We’d also discussed the plight of the tiger and heard Bob’s gloomy prediction that by 2020 the only way to see an Indian tiger will praobably be in a zoo, since countrywide they’re killed at the rate of about one a day.

Bob, who was born in Calcutta, used to be a shikar, or game hunter when hunting was legal and tigers were considered plentiful. But from the late 1960s, when drought in Bihar and Orissa caused an increase in poaching and animal numbers decreased significantly, the Wrights hung up their rifles and devoted themselves to conservation.

A typical Kipling day involves ‘bed-tea’ at 5am. Then you stagger out into the darkness to the jeeps. You pull on your hat and gloves and wrap up in a blanket as you wait for the 6am opening of the Kanha gates as dawn breaks. This is prime tiger-tracking time so tension is high.

Siddarth soon taught us to recognise babblers and pond herons and drongoes. Later we followed fresh pugmarks to a tree where deep slashes in the bark 3 metres from the ground made by a tiger on its hind legs sharpening its claws were a chilling clue to its size.

One afternoon we rode Tara the elephant to the river for her daily bath. We rolled up our trousers and jumped into the water to give her a good scrub. She and her mahout then splashed about like happy children while we had tea and biscuits on the river bank. Once Tara had dried off in the sun and given herself a thorough scratch and a pedicure with a branch we rode her back. My mother, who’d

Photo tana dutkevicova, czech republic

read about her in Mark Shand’s “Travels on my Elephant” says it was one of the most delightful moments of her visit to India.

Late at night, snuggled up with my hot water bottle, listening to the sounds of the jungle, I knew that whether I “got” my tiger or not didn’t really matter. What mattered was to know that they are still out there in the wild.

Bob Wright passed away in April 2005 and India lost a great champion of her wildlife. However, Kipling Camp continues with the legacy of his work.

The writer is Australian and is on her second stint in India. Earlier, she was in Chennai for four years, and is currently residing in Mumbai for the last one year.

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Being India j u l ian matthews

He calls himself the “unlikely editor” of Tiger Nation, a movement he began just a few months ago, but one that is already creating a ripple effect in India. Meet Julian Matthews, the Indian tiger’s trusted crusader 52

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I FELL in love with tigers, India and its people in 1998, when I first visited. I was in Africa before that, but hey, why waste my time with the African Big Five, when you can get a Big Seven here! I saw my first Tiger in Bardia, Nepal, in 1992, and the most recent was in November last year, in Bandhavgarh. The thrill is just the same, but I never mind not seeing them – it's a privilege of course – not a right! My favoured way of exploring wilderness is on foot, ten times more valuable as an education than in a vehicle. It’s something I would love to do more myself, but also see more opportunities with kids and adults too. It’s probably the best way to turn people into wildlife advocates.

Now I am up to my neck in India, with one abiding passion – to ensure I leave this planet for my kids and their kids with a place worth living on, that has the same beauty and joys of wilderness and wildlife that I have been privileged enough to experience and enjoy.

And so, that brings me to Tiger Nation.

Tiger Nation was once just a germ of an idea.

Seems a long time back admittedly, but it was only a year and half ago. Back then, I had a problem just thinking how to bring it all together.

How could we seek to chronicle the lives of tigers in a novel, compelling and fascinating way? How could we use these stories, as the basis on which we could further tiger research, build long-term histories, and keep a better eye on them? How could it be funded and sustained? Finally, how could everyone’s photographs and footage alongside amazing new technologies and the buzz of ‘citizen science’ and social media help us to get there?

I can’t quite believe it but we have it all here, all together and now (nearly) always working.

A screenshot of Tiger Nation's homepage

Understand, I was never meant to be the editor, or more precisely, the chronicler of a real-time, wild-time soap opera. The job was meant for a real experienced and talented natural history writer.

Wordsmithing is not my natural territory. Indeed, I have always pitied writers having to produce wondrous prose against never-ending deadlines and editors for

Mum Lakshmi and her cub Shardul. Lakshmi was killed by another tigress, Vijaya in late 2011, but Shardul now lives on the fringes of Bandhavgarh. Kim Sullivan Tiger Nation

the continuous timekeeping that publishing demands.

However, in truth, I have rather enjoyed the job; been gripped by the stories coming out of the wild; fallen in love (and out of love) with many of the tiger’s surprisingly human characteristics, and loved the drama and suspense that is life in India’s feted jungles.

Sadly, however, my ability to edit the diaries, caption the images and streamline the articles at anything more than snail’s pace has not improved.

Like anything that is novel, Tiger Nation has needed a thousand other things to happen at the same time and to settle down into some sort of daily routine.

We’ve needed real experts in the field to tell us what is happening, scientists to advise us how best to use the technology, cameramen to send us footage, Park Directors to support us, and of course, lots of you to help us gather the information and photos that we will depend on to make it happen. The result: a lot of behind-the-scenes juggling, endless drama, sleepless nights and lots of banging of desks, just to keep the whole Tiger Nation show on the road, and a very complex website on your computer screens.

I am what Indians would call a ‘wildlifer’ or ‘Junglee’, a person who infinitely prefers to be in the wild than in front of a computer screen. I am also very untechnologically savvy (if there is such a word), having tended to avoid or run away from anything resembling a box with a screen on it over the last 25 years of my career.

So if I am a reluctant editor, the reality is I’m an even more unlikely web entrepreneur.

It’s just the whole idea I could not resist.

The writer is Managing Editor and Tiger- in-Chief at www.tigernation.org and Chairman of Wildlife Tourism campaign TOFTigers www.toftigers.org. culturama | august 2012

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Currently Occucpied I an W atkinson

Takenat the

Culturama introduces a new column that gives you a glimpse of a topical India story through the eyes of an expatriate. This month our columnist zeroes in on Assam, where the recent devastating floods took its toll on the Kaziranga National Park

Flood

PHOTO ian watkinson, UK

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THE North East of India recently experienced devastating floods, centred in the state of Assam, which experiences both fortune and disaster by hosting the flood plain of the mighty Brahmaputra River that flows for over 700 km through the state. The North East area of India, formerly known as ‘Assam Province’ under the British rule, today consists seven states – Assam, Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram, Tripura, Meghalaya and Arunachal Pradesh.

With one of the heaviest monsoon rainfall in the world (the cause of the recent devastation), Assam boasts of a vivid verdant green and fertile landscape and is often called the ‘Kerala of the North East’. Great forests of Himalayan sal, teakwood and other hardwoods grow in profusion. Massive creaking bamboo, giant plantain and abundant vegetable crops are to be seen growing everywhere amongst extensive paddy fields.

Tumbling masses of purple orchids cascade wild from the hardwoods.

Assam has had a politically turbulent past in addition to the recurrent natural disasters, but is now experiencing a new social stability with progress unheard of until recently. The state is gently reasserting itself by opening up areas formerly closed to visitors and carefully nurturing some of the best wildlife parks in the world.

Many tribal areas are still ‘out of bounds’ to visitors without special permits; a legacy of the British, when banning outsiders from contact was seen as the best way to protect the delicate and very unique cultures of the rural tribal communities, particularly in the hilly forest regions. Complex conflicts still flare up in remote areas.

The tranquil villages are full of friendly and inquisitive faces; simple but spotless houses are constructed from bamboo or wooden frames filled with woven reed panels, skimmed with cow dung and mud, and raised on hard mud platforms or bamboo stilts to survive the rainy season. These flexible structures are also designed to withstand earthquakes – with good reason too; this is one of the world’s most active seismic zones.

Here, the Indian tectonic plate is still moving against, and under, the Eurasian plate. In 1897, one of the world’s worst earthquakes shook the area, with an estimated magnitude of 8.7. The dozen or so massive, erotically carved stone temples on the hillsides at

Madan Kamdev, built by the mysterious Pala Dynasty in the 12th century and often compared to Khajuraho, were reduced in seconds to piles of ornate rubble.

In 1950, another huge earthquake of 8.7 magnitude rippled the landscape – the sixth worst quake of the 20th century. The Brahmaputra River rose by eight metres and Tsunami-like waves flooded the broad flatlands, destroying villages and taking lives with the impunity of nature’s power.

However, the river and water are central to Assamese life. Nearly every house has a fish pond for freshwater fish, which is an integral part of the Assamese diet. With over 120 rivers feeding the Brahmaputra, water and fish are Assam’s life blood.

The jewels of Assam are its wildlife parks. The Kaziranga National Park, the most accessible, still takes six hours of driving through countless tea plantations.

Assam now produces nearly half a million tonnes of tea every year, one-sixth of the global production.

The tiring journey reaps rich rewards, for Kaziranga is a stunningly beautiful place. A jeep safari deep into the Park is the best way to see animals, and there is no doubt they are there. A slower way is by elephant safari, where from the rickety wooden seat on the back of the silent lumbering pachyderm the unworried animals seem within arm’s reach.

Kaziranga is one of the last bastions of the Indian one-horned Rhino. Although still threatened by poaching (because of the supposed aphrodisiac effects of its horn), the rhinos numbered over 2,000 prior to the sad losses in the recent floods that also, sadly, gave poachers access to the rhinos, adding to the losses. It’s a double edged sword – the area’s wetlands depend on the rain and the normal flood levels of the Brahmaputra for verdant growth, providing ample foliage for the animals. Yet, too much rain causes massive destruction.

An estimated 100 tigers call this home, along with 35 other species of mammals and over 480 species of birds. A rare great hornbill flies languidly across the pastel evening sky, a fitting farewell to a place near paradise, a place where only the unstoppable power of nature holds the critical balance in place. Soon the flooded plains will dry, the animals will breed and graze, and nature will let peace prevail – until it needs to vent its fury again on this lush, unspoilt corner of India.

The writer is British and has been in living in India for the past three years.

culturama | august 2012

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Rhythmof Life T etseo S isters

HappiLi

Ever After From the verdant hills of Nagaland come the Tetseo Sisters, and with them, the soulful refrain of a forgotten melody called Li

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THE green hills spread around him endlessly, with giant trees and heavy foliage. Was that some wild animal waiting to pounce on him? His spear and dao* (Naga hunting/utility knife) drawn, he prayed to the spirits of the woods to keep him safe and lead him back to his village. He had lost track of how many days he had been walking through the forest after he got separated from his group while out on a hunt. As he continued walking, he heard the sweetest of sounds. Human voices. The songs of men and women at work. He followed the voices and walked into a clearing from where he could see rice fields on the other side of the mountain. Streams of water gleamed like silver in the noon sun as they fed the cascading fields of speckled green and brown.

Laughter and song filled the air, as did the aroma of lunch cooking nearby in one of the huts. The familiar songs they were singing told him he was in friendly company and not too far from home. He had been saved by the songs.

Nobody knows for sure where the tribes of the Naga Hills came from or how they acquired their weaving skills or their love for colour, cowries and shells, predominant in their jewellery, or where they learned the music of the heavens. In the folktales from our childhood, they say the Nymphs of the woods would lure people away with their mystic songs and perhaps the Li (folksongs) of the Nagas are the closest thing to those wondrous songs. Li was integral to the lives of the Nagas. Music has always been a part and parcel of Naga culture, an activity connecting the dots of mundane human life to complex rituals to appease the spirit gods. Li is also a celebration of life, the only source of our history. Li calls for active participation of all members of a village at festivals or at work and then again, it could be the private communication between lovers in the midst of a crowd. The many forms of Li tell us how integral and inherent it was to the people in the days of yore. Stories of ancestral achievements, lessons in life, stories of love, parables and comedy all exist within Li and hence Li becomes one of the few sources of recounting the history of a people that was not recorded for posterity. How tragic it would be then to forget the songs and thereby lose the history held within them? This nearly happened with the rapid Westernisation of the Naga Hills post India’s independence, and the arrival of American

and European missionaries bringing Christianity to the tribes early on. It resulted in the rejection of anything animistic and indigenous to the point of destroying and relinquishing jewellery, an end to tribal festivals, rituals and practices, folk music and dancing, in favour of hymns, Western festivals and clothing, to rock music and all things modern.

Fortunately, in the late 1970s, some people saw the need for reviving and preserving the music and dances of our people and eventually the state government caught on and the great revival began.

Today, here we are, the Tetseo Sisters, trying to do our little bit to keep the fire burning.

We picked up our first folk songs from our parents when we were very young. As more opportunities arose for us to share those songs on stage, our foray into Li as professional artistes began and, eventually, after more than a decade of folk singing, it culminated in an album. There are no formal schools of Li, and learning is by participation; there are so many varieties of Li among the many tribes of Nagaland that it will take us years to learn a few from each tribe. We currently sing our folk songs in the Chokri dialect of the Chakhesang tribe of Nagaland. There are thousands of different styles and themes even within the Li of the Chakhesangs and our music offers but a glimpse of the rich variety of the beautiful music of our people, passed on from generation to generation by oral tradition.

There is still so much to learn and explore. People ask if the language we sing in has been a deterrent in sharing our music on a bigger platform. Our response is rather clichĂŠd, but we say music is the language every ear understands. You just need to allow yourself to be transported into spaces beyond by the harmonies and melodies that reach you. A Li could take you into the heart of nature, walk you through the depths of the jungle, by rushing rivers and songbirds, sounding the battle cry with fierce warriors as they set out to protect loved ones and claim new lands, fill you with pain as you experience the emotions of unrequited love or death of a dear one and also give you wings and happy feet as you step into the arena or festivities to celebrate life and friendship and thank the gods for prosperity and good fortune. Such is the power of Li, and we are humbled and honoured for the opportunity to share it with the rest of the world.

Visit www.tetseosisters.com to know more about them and their music.

culturama | august 2012

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News & Happening

Learning

Tools

mango

mania THE lingering aroma of mangoes brought a whiff of the summer breeze, the smell of grass and clear skies to the India Immersion Centre (IIC) on July 21. Making the most of the mango season in the country, the IIC, an NGO arm of Global Adjustments, organised a unique cookery session for expats, aptly titled ‘Going Bananas over Mangoes’.

Conducted by Mrs. Krishnambika Nambiar, an Economist by training and a culture and food connoisseur by passion, the session opened up a whole new vista for this King of Fruits. Mrs. Nambiar’s experience in conducting numerous lecture-demonstrations around the world on traditional medicine, well-being and health came to the fore, as she seamlessly outlined the mango’s indelible role in the Indian kitchen and the variety of dishes one could make with it.

Though an interactive session, participants were taught to make a drink, starter, main course and dessert, all with the mango as the main ingredient. Mrs. Nambiar also explained the nutritional benefits that are bundled up in this one delicious fruit, its cultural significance in Indian myth and lore, and shared practical cooking and storage tips, which most expats found useful. The event was followed by lunch and conversation, and our foodies in attendance appeared to have really enjoyed the session!

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“Tell me and I’ll forget. Show me and I may not remember. Involve me and I’ll understand” – Native American proverb on education GLOBAL Adjustments and QED co-hosted a thought provoking event on educational practices and policy in India. QED is a newly formed company that could potentially transform the world of learning across the globe with its radical experiential learning methodologies And this was no ordinary event for the India Immersion Centre. We had the honour of having in our midst Prof.

Suresh Kumar, until recently a member of the Obama Administration as Assistant Secretary for Trade and Promotion in the Commerce Department and Director General of the U.S. and Foreign Commercial Service.

Prof. Kumar is now a visiting Professor at the George Washington University and a great advocate on merging policy with practice to shape the leaders of tomorrow.

The fireside chat, Q & A and networking session hosted at the India Immersion Centre had the who’s who of the education world in Chennai sharing their thought leadership on India’s current education policies and practices and the changes required to allow future generations to compete at a global leadership level.

Bombay Gym Blitz FOOT BALL TOURNAMENT

THE Bombay Gymkhana will be hosting its fourth annual six-a-side ‘Bombay Gym Blitz Football Tournament 2012’ on November 2 and 3, an exclusive event for the expat and consulate/diplomatic community. Last year’s tournament had 24 teams, with players representing England, Germany, France, India, USA, Ireland, Malaysia, Spain, Japan, Mexico, Columbia, South Africa, Iran, Italy, Brazil, Denmark, Sweden, Canada, Holland and Ghana.

The event has a festive atmosphere, with music and drinks flowing and a great opportunity for expats to network.

For more info, please visit http://www.facebook.com/ pages/Bombay-Gym-Football/147407351978492?sk=p hotos. This year, the event can host a maximum of 32 teams. Teams will be confirmed on a first-come firstserved basis.

Want to play

football in India?

Global Adjustments will be forming its own expat team for the tournament and is looking for potential Ronaldos, Beckhams and Van Persies of this world. If you can kick a ball and fancy yourself an undiscovered football star, please contact sunaina@globaladjustments.com by August 15, 2012.

IIC EVENTS CALENDAR AUGUST EVENT Chennai

Festivals Of India

Delhi

Dilli Saaga

ANZA

Mumbai

Myth Busters

DESCRIPTION Madras Day! Come celebrate the city in an interactive panel discussion with Expats and Indians Celebrate Raksha Bandhan. The story & significance of the festival, which celebrates the special bond of a brother and sister ANZA Coffee Mornings.

All Australian and New Zealand passport holders and / or spouses are welcome Why do Indians do that?

Unravelling behaviours based on Mythology.

After the resounding sucess in Delhi this event comes to expat women in Mumbai

HOW TO ATTEND

DATE & TIME Saturday, August 25, 10 a.m. – 12 noon

Contact: contactiic@ globaladjustments.com

Thursday, August 31, 10 a.m. – 12 noon

Contact: dillisaaga@gmail.com

All Fridays 9 a.m.

– 10:30 a.m.

At Olive Beach Hotel, Diplomat Sardar Patel Road, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi

Contact: www.facebook.com/ AnzaNewDehi

September

Contact: sunaina@ globaladjustments.com

India Immersion Center is the not-for-profit arm of Global Adjustments. See our regular events and workshops in your city, especially for Expats to gain an insight into India and meet unlikely Indians. Come Link, Learn,Leave a Legacy.

culturama | august 2012

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Global Citizen C ara H u ske y

The Boy Who Grew Up

Can there be a definitive marker to that moment when someone grows up? Our writer gives us a global perspective on the coming-of-age ceremonies across cultures, revealing inherent universal lessons

WHEN does a child become an adult? Each culture across the world has marked one’s coming-of-age uniquely. Be it a graduation, a particular age, a driver’s licence, a new home, a marriage, or even having a child, we all find our own moment to grow up.

Some cultures use special ceremonies to mark this transition. As an intern with Global Adjustments, I recently had the pleasure of attending the Hindu coming-of-age ceremony called an Upanayanam. Many Hindu boys have this “sacred thread ceremony” to mark their transition from boyhood to adulthood at just eight years old.

Undeniably, an Upanayanam has some distinctly Hindu traditions. For example, in the middle of the ceremony, the boy shares a final carefree meal with his best friend; afterwards, he must be conscious of what he is consuming each time he sits down to eat and make sure to give back as much as he takes. This concept is harmonious with the Hindu idea of overcoming one’s ego in order to be conscious of society as a whole.

However, I was also surprised to find rituals in the Upanayanam that seemed very similar to coming-of-age ceremonies of other cultures. Much like a Jewish boy’s Bar Mitzvah, the Upanayanam centres on the transition to becoming a serious student, where education becomes paramount. Each ceremony requires the boys to recite from their holy books, the Hindu Bhagavad Gita and the Jewish Torah, respectively.

Paralleling the ancient Chinese “cap” ceremony, the Hindu boy has his head shaved sparing a tuft at the back, whereas the Chinese youth’s hair is tied in a bun and capped in the same place. Both arrangements of hair represent the transition from youth to scholar.

Adulthood itself seems to be an ambiguous moving target.

These same Indian boys who have become adults at eight might later anxiously await their strands of grey hair to come in, which brings with it respect and legitimacy in the business world. Many young Indian girls are excited to grow up quickly, but also bemoan the time when they switch from being called didi or akka (older sister) to being called Aunty by small children.

Observing the Upanayanam, I began to consider my own transition to adulthood. For me, graduating high school and going to university was a monumental coming of age moment.

Taking on the responsibility of my own education and living away from home for a time made me feel like I had crossed a major threshold on the way to becoming an adult. I know there will be several markers along the path, but it is important to celebrate each one.

Cara Huskey is American and an intern with Global Adjustments’ Cross-Cultural Training Department. For more information on our courses, including working with younger generations, contact courses@globaladjustments.com 60

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Holistic Living E knath E aswaran

The Infinite Quest

In the last issue of Culturama, we began with the second chapter of the Gita, illustrating the impermanence of reality, of the power of meditation, and the impact of its knowledge in daily life. Sri Easwaran continues the journey THESE discoveries are the essential ideas that the Gita builds on, and since they are expressed in Sanskrit words that have no English equivalents, this is a good place to introduce the vocabulary that the Gita takes for granted. For the direct experience of reality that comes when the mind is still, in which we see life whole, the Gita uses the same word as yoga philosophy: samadhi. The supreme reality itself is called Brahman; the indivisible unity in which all creation is one. Since this unity is absolute, beyond all change, Brahman has no attributes, so it cannot be described. Yet its discovery brings experiential awareness of an inner presence far greater than the individual personality, from which the body draws its strength, the senses draw their activity, the intellect draws its powers, and the heart draws its capacity to love. This presence is called simply Atman, “Self.”

Like Brahman, the Atman is pure consciousness. When the mind is still, it has no limitations to distinguish it from the rest of the field of consciousness – “like pure water poured into pure water,” as the Upanishads say. The ineffable core of pure consciousness within each creature is exactly the same as the core of pure consciousness in every other creature; there is no difference at all. In the Upanishads this is put into an equation as precise and profound as Einstein’s formula for the equivalence of mass and energy: Tat tvam asi, “You are That”: your real Self is identical with that ultimate reality beyond name and form.

Brahman has a passive aspect – attributeless reality – and a dynamic aspect which is pure energy, called prakriti. Prakriti is both primordial energy and the material world manifested from it – that is, the whole phenomenal world, Brahman as seen through the filter of the mind in motion. In remarkably modern language, the Gita refers to prakriti – mind, matter, and energy all together – as a field: I am the Knower of the field in everyone, Arjuna. Knowledge

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of the field and its Knower is true knowledge. (13:2) These are tremendous ideas, radically different from the traditional view that mind and matter, God and creation, are separate and distinct. In traditional language, the Gita is saying that the ultimate reality most religions call God is not separate from the world. It is not inaccurate to say that the world is created by God, but the Gita and Upanishads would say also that the world emanates from God, and even that the world is God – not in the pantheistic sense, but in the sense that when we look at reality through duality, the world is what we see.

Because we are not separate from this supreme reality, it follows that each of us is incomplete so long as we consider ourselves separate: that is, until we make this discovery ourselves. Whatever else we may achieve in life, there will be a vacuum in our hearts that can be filled only by direct, experiential knowledge of reality. This is the message of the Gita in a nutshell: life has only one purpose, and that is to know the divine ground of existence and become united with it here and now.

Levels of Reality One all-important idea here is that the way in which reality is seen and described varies according to the level of consciousness of the observer. In other words, there are levels of reality, corresponding to the level of observation.

This is an elusive idea, but one that is vitally important for understanding the Bhagavad Gita, which will present us with the same one reality in a confusing variety of ways. The explanation of this is that since awareness is shaped by the mind of the observer, the ultimate reality takes the form that answers one’s deepest needs. Culture and tradition come into this, of course, but it is essentially a matter of the observer’s own consciousness. Thus, says the Rig Veda, though God is one, we call him – or her, or it – by different names.

India has always embraced diversity, so we find there many

names and faces for the one divine reality – Shiva, Vishnu, and the Divine Mother, among others, each endowed with attributes that a human being can relate to and love and worship. Vishnu, “the allpervasive,” himself has further forms, including Krishna. Then there are the devas, “gods” in lowercase – personifications of the forces of nature perhaps absorbed into Indian religion from an earlier age and preserved as divine powers. The panoply is confusing to almost everyone not born in India, to whom it often appears that Hindus worship different gods. Indians themselves add to this confusion by speaking affectionately of “the gods” meaning any of the above; but if pressed, even an illiterate villager knows that these are only faces or personalities of the same divine reality, like a repertory actor playing several roles.

Indian thought takes this one step further: in response to the collective needs of many, the needs of the times, God takes form – is incarnated – as a human being. Sri Krishna explains in famous lines: My true being is unborn and changeless. I am the Lord who dwells in every creature. Through the power of my own maya, I manifest myself in a finite form. Whenever dharma declines and the purpose of life is forgotten, I manifest myself on earth. I am born in every age to protect the good, to destroy evil, and to reestablish dharma. . . . As people approach me, so I receive them. All paths, Arjuna, lead to me. (4:6–8, 11) To be continued…

Join us every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at contactiic@ globaladjustments.com and Sharanya Govind at 9710947713. If you are in other cities, visit www.

PHOTO: Douglas Vanherpe, France

easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

Reprinted with permission from Essence of the Bhagavad Gita: A Contemporary Guide to Yoga, Meditation & Indian Philosophy by Eknath Easwaran (Nilgiri Press, 2011). Copyright 2011 by The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971, www.easwaran.org.

culturama | august 2012

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Myth and Mythology De v d u tt P attanaik

The Turning Point Culturama asked Devdutt how one can overcome hierarchical obstacles at the workplace and the Jain mythological story he shared with us shows that it is a struggle innate in every human being

IN JAIN mythology, Chakravarti means Emperor of the world. Chakra means a wheel. It refers to the horizon, which is circular, with us in the centre. The Chakravarti rules all that his eyes can see.

When he was made Chakravarti of the world, Bharata, eldest son of Rishabha (the first of the 24 Tirthankaras, or spiritual leader), demanded that all his brothers bow to him. Rather than bow to him, they renounced the world. One brother, however, refused to bow or renounce. His name was Bahubali, the second son of Rishabha. Bharata declared war on Bahubali.

To avoid unnecessary bloodshed, the elders recommended that the brothers should engage in a series of duels to prove who was stronger. Bahubali turned out to be stronger than Bharata, but a point came when Bahubali had to raise his hand and strike Bharata on the head. The idea of striking his elder brother disgusted Bahubali; so he used his raised hand to pluck hair from his own head instead, thus declaring his intention to be a monk.

But as Bahubali had renounced the world after his younger brothers, he was a junior monk and was expected to bow to monks who had renounced earlier, his younger brothers included. Bahubali found this idea unacceptable. Surely younger brothers have to bow to elder brothers? But in the monastic order, the rules of seniority were different. Bahubali struggled, for it was not just about giving up things, it was about giving up the thought of domination.

In the case of Bharata, the law said that the eldest shall be king. All knew this, yet his brothers preferred renouncing the world to bowing to him. In the case of Bahubali, he knew that being a monk involves renouncing the desire to dominate, and yet he found the idea of bowing to his younger brothers unacceptable.

This is what happens in organisations. Rules are made using the most rational arguments and even consensus, the aim being to realise the vision, do the task or reach the target. Yet, it is a struggle to implement them. Few see that every structure, every rule, however fair it may be, comes with its own power

structure. And so we wonder why people find it difficult to simply follow the most rational of rules, or align to the process.

We wonder why people yearn to be creative or drag their feet or demand motivation, despite being compensated. It stems from our animal desire to dominate, our rejection of any attempt to dominate us.

When Rahul joined as the assistant manager of a shipping firm, he was told two people, Jaydev and Cyrus, would report to him. Jaydev and Cyrus were senior by many years and they found the idea of Rahul signing their appraisal forms unacceptable. Rahul did not see what the problem was; surely the system had to be respected. Like Bahubali, however, he realised the problem when he was asked to report to the owner’s son, Pinaki, who though senior in years, was neither as qualified nor as smart as him. Jaydev and Cyrus could not handle reporting to a younger man. Rahul could not handle reporting to a man he thought was less smart than him. All had to struggle between desire to dominate and the rules of domestication.

illustration vincent moses raja

The writer is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology.

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8

AUGUST

10

Festivals of India

13

Krishna Jayanti This festival celebrates the birth of Lord Krishna, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the Preserver in the Holy Trinity. Krishna is often depicted as a mischievous young boy with a penchant for milk and butter. Families across the country celebrate by offering milk-based sweets and butter to Krishna. Some families even draw infant footprints with rice flour paste from their door to the prayer room, to depict Krishna entering their homes.

Independence Day

15

This year marks the 65th year of India’s independence from British colonial rule. On this national holiday, educational institutions and some offices organise elaborate flag-hoisting ceremonies, movies of national importance and pride are telecast on television, and people usually sport a small tri-colour paper flag on their shirts.

20

Id-ul-Fitr A very important day for Muslims, it marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan. Ramadan is when Muslims all over the world fast from dawn to dusk, as a mark of piety to Allah and his teachings. On Id-ul-Fitr, also called Eid, celebrations abound, marked by an elaborate feast and much gaiety.

Onam A regional festival celebrated by people of Kerala with flower carpets, large banquets and snake boat races. It marks the annual visit of King Mahabali. The story goes that the king was a staunch devotee of Lord Vishnu and promised the God three strides of land when asked. The Lord stepped over the heavens and the earth in two strides and for the third, the king offered his own head. And so, he returns annually from the netherworld or Patala, where he was sent, to visit his people on this day.

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65

Child Friendly Yasmeena K han

Sweet Nothings Our youngest columnist takes on this calorie-conscious world, arguing for the cause of cookies and candies

HAVE you ever wished for a miracle to happen, like your suddenly turned healthy mom buys you those cookies you really want? And when she says no, have you argued and said that they’re low-fat? And then when you go to camp, do you buy candy and keep it in a secret place and promise your mom it’ll last until March even though it’s only August?

In the 21st century, more and more studies show that salads, candy minimums, and essentially calorie-free drinks lead to a healthy adult life. That is, provided you follow it as a kid. But following the strict regime your parents lay out for you isn’t easy.

Suddenly, you’re forced to watch how many calories go into you. Your care-free cookie-filled life is behind you. In front, only salads! You learn to watch for the times you can ask and usually get sugary drinks or dessert. And thus begins a life in which you resent every time your parents say “No.” So what happens when you are home free? When you’re in college? When there’s nobody to look out for you, nobody to say “No”? Or even at camp. You’re given freedom. Money. A General Store stocked with candy. How can you resist? You’re only a kid. Do you do the natural thing, race to the General Store with a $20 clutched in your hand? Or somehow, do your strict parents who insist on sunlight, exercise, and above all, no candy, not get to you? If it doesn’t, congratulations!

You are officially an alien.

I hope you come in peace. Because when you’re finally faced with freedom – even if only for a week – you’re going to need to take hold of it.

If only parents understood. They were kids once. They had cookies, their health not considered, their sweets freedom showing in age-old cavities. Why won’t they understand that sometimes, it’s not want that drives you to beg for that perfect ginger-and-chocolate cat cookie? It’s need.

The writer is 12 years old, half-Indian, quarter-Pakistani and quarter-Dutch and lives in the United States.

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Raksha Bandhan Raksha (to protect) bandhan (bond) is an Indian festival that celebrates the bond betweens brothers and sisters. On this day, sisters tie a decorated thread on their brothers’ wrist to signify their love for them, while the boys promise to protect and take care of their sisters for the rest of their lives. Over the years, gifts have begun playing an important role in the festivities, with money, clothing and sweets being offered and exchanged. The thread that is tied is called a Rakhi and so, the festival itself is referred to as Rakhi in some parts of the country. The tradition began with the Hindu Rani Karnavati, a widowed queen, who sent a Rakhi to the Muslim Mughal King Humayun to seek his help in battle. Today, Raksha Bandhan celebrates all sibling relationships.

Make A Rakhi!

Take six different colours of yarn.

Cut each one to an arm’s length.

Tie them all together at the top leaving about two fingers of space.

Braid the strands together.

Knot it at the end, leaving about two fingers of space.

Cut chart paper into a circle, about 1.5 inches wide.

Decorate it with markers and glitter.

Use glue to attach your decorated circle to the centre of the braid.

Tie it around a brother’s hand!

iseries

i read

S aritha R ao

What is it about? Precocious little Lenny Sethi is fascinated by the Ice Candy Man who flirts incessantly with Shanta, her ayah.

When Lahore is declared part of Pakistan, a spate of migrations, conversions and violence erupt in the city. Lenny witnesses the Ice Candy Man's transformation, as he revels in the carnage unfolding on the streets, and eventually, breaks the trust of an unsuspecting child, caught in the middle of it all.

Book Ice Candy Man

by Bapsi Sidhwa

Who is it by? Bapsi Sidhwa is one of the definitive voices of the Indian subcontinent. Her novels, written in English, have been translated into several languages. Sidhwa is, much like her polioafflicted protagonist Lenny, a Zoroastrian of Pakistani origin and the city of Lahore is central to many of her novels.

Album Laya Project – Earth Sync

What is it about? The Laya Project is dedicated to the survivors of the 2004 Tsunami. It is a confluence of contemporary sound with original recordings of folk music traditions from the South East Asian coastal communities ravaged by the Tsunami.

Who is it by? The album has 11 tracks featuring folk musicians and vocalists from Sri Lanka, Thailand, Indonesia, Maldives, Myanmar and India. It is produced by Earth Sync, a Chennai-based record label that combines the classical, the folk and the contemporary, and boasts of some unique musical collaboration from different parts of the world.

i hear

Why should I read it? Also called Cracking India, the book vividly captures the bestial violence that erupted during the Partition. Sidhwa wonderfully captures Lenny's voice, with all its petulance, raw frankness and stirring sensitivity. Ice Candy Man has also been made into a movie, ‘Earth’, by Deepa Mehta.

i see

Why should I listen to it? The album maintains the essence of each regional musical tradition within the larger contextual framework of a world music album. The voices of the folk artistes are raw, untrained and soulful in tracks, such as ‘Ya Allah’, ‘Touare’ and ‘Nium Nium’, while the instruments, especially the percussions, dominate in tracks, such as ‘Tapatham’ and ‘Prem Jam’. It is available in formats such as CD, DVD and downloadable digital audio files.

What is it about? McKinley, a jailor in British India, writes in his diary about five Indian patriots whose commitment to Indian independence shook his very belief system. Many decades later, his granddaughter, Sue, arrives in India to make a documentary based on this and casts a group of happy-go-lucky friends to play the patriots. In a sudden spiralling of circumstances, their lives end up mirroring those of the martyrs they portray.

Film Rang De Basanti (2006) Language | Hindi

Who is it by? ‘Rang De Basanti’ was scripted and directed

by Rakeysh Omprakash Mehra, a prolific ad filmmaker turned filmmaker. He is currently working on a biopic on Indian athlete Milkha Singh, who represented India in the 1960 and 1964 Olympics.

Why should I watch it? The movie portrays how the country's collective memory of rebellion during the Indian freedom struggle resonates even today in the angst of the youth in contemporary India.

It won the National Film Award for Best Popular Film Providing Wholesome Entertainment, and was the first Indian movie to be nominated by BAFTA in the Best Foreign Language Film category.

Visit www.flipkart.com to buy the book, movie or CD featured in this column. culturama | august 2012

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Postcards from India

At Play Gidday THESE little girls playing a game caught my eye in Kanchipuram, the southern town of temples and silks. I wasn’t quick enough for a candid camera shot of them pretending to drive a cart each, but they were happy to pose. I was curious about the smaller cart but we didn’t share enough language for me to learn more. The blue and yellow, the traditional tiles on the roof and the peeling plaster revealing the “bones” of the building appealed to me.

More history was revealed when I was told that the Tamil sign on the wall was for a traditional siddha* healer whose skills had been passed down by his forefathers. I wonder if the girls, his daughters, will break with tradition and take up the conventionally male profession?

Elaine Wood *“Siddha” means perfection and is a very ancient and alternative form of medicine developed in Tamil Nadu.

This photograph was an entry in the Global Adjustments 2005 Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition by Australian Elaine Wood.

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WAITING at a traffic light I noticed this three-wheeled autorickshaw stopped beside us. I caught sight of the kids as they caught sight of me – at least nine kids were crammed inside. Wow! So many children travel in this fashion to school in this mode of public transport, as not many schools have buses.

They started waving and shouting “hullo”, so of course I waved back. Luckily I had my camera with me. I wound the window down, said “Gidday” to them (a true blue Aussie greeting) and indicated I would like to take a photo. Well!!

The kids nearly fell out of the auto with excitement and the auto driver was so proud. Their impeccable school uniforms, beautiful smiles and their friendly but curious manner captivated me. They really were just as fascinated by us as we were of them.

Felicity Kelly

“You’re just as interesting as us” was an entry in the Global Adjustments 2005 expatriate photo contest by Australian Felicity Kelly.

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Patriotic Flavour

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Tell us your Story

The ouse Whisperer Anita Krishnaswamy, President of Global Adjustments and relocation expert, will answer all those niggling questions you might have on housing and realty in India. Anita comes with many years of experience of working with expat clients across the major metros in India to help them find their perfect home. She can be reached at anita@ globaladjustments.com

What kind of support can one expect from a landlord for maintenance of the property?

–American tenant in Delhi In India, landlords tend to get involved only if the property needs structural changes or white goods in the house have to be replaced. Basically, the larger maintenance issues are taken care of. For issues like minor electric work and plumbing, typically the tenant is expected to manage this. However, it is always advisable to keep the landlord informed at all times.

Why do landlords insist on an 11-month rental lease in India?

– German tenant in Chennai The lease agreement drawn up in India transfers the right of ownership to the tenant for an indefinite period of time, which can be problematic because it encourages the tenant to claim the right to permanently live in the property. Rent control laws favour the tenant and only apply to lease agreements of 12 months or more. Therefore, to combat this, landlords created an 11-month lease period to retain control. For a 12-month lease, compulsory registration is required as per government procedure.

Is there a property tax that is to be paid? If so, what is the rate?

– Swedish tenant in Bengaluru Property tax and water tax pertain only to the owner and landlord of the property. Tenants don’t pay any tax on property.

There may be additional maintenance costs depending on the type of property; these are not to be viewed as tax.

Do kitchens in India come fitted with white goods?

– American tenant in Mumbai It is advisable to not expect white goods in kitchens, especially for appliances like dishwashers, baking ovens and dryers.

Indian households depend on maids and other household help for washing dishes and drying out clothes in the open, while baking isn’t part of the Indian culture. Modern apartments may have provisions for the appliances to be fitted in the kitchen.

Do communicate your requirements to the broker or landlord at the time of viewing to avoid misunderstandings.

Follow us on

If you have any comments, suggestions or queries for this column, write to anita@globaladjustments.com 74

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R

Space & The City

Global Adjustments

Owners, list your property with us for MNC clients. Renters and buyers, we are your one-stop shop for all real estate needs.

Easing your passage to and from India

Bengaluru

17 years of bringing the world to India

North West Bengaluru Semi Furnished Apartment • • • •

Semi furnished Pent House 3 bedrooms Gated Community

South Bengaluru Beautiful Apartment • • • •

Fully furnished Quiet neighbourhood 2 bedrooms Gated Community

North Bengaluru Semi Furnished Apartment

South Bengaluru Independent House

• • • •

• • • •

Modern kitchen Semi-furnished apartment 4 bedrooms Gated Community with club amenities

Extended lawn Semi furnished 4 bedrooms Centrally located Gated Community

Mumbai

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 80 41267152/9986960315 or email: blr@globaladjustments.com

Bandra West Exclusively Furnished Apartment • 5 BHK • Area 4,800 sq. ft • Marble flooring, modular kitchen, pool, car parking space • Gym, children’s play area and servant’s room with bathroom

Bandra West Spacious Apartment • 3 BHK, fully furnished • Area 3,200 sq. ft • Modular kitchen, marble flooring, car parking space • Gym, servant’s room with bathroom

Powai Beautiful Apartment • Beautiful Apartment • 3 BHK, fully furnished • Area 2,150 sq. ft • Modular kitchen, Italian marble flooring, pool, car parking space • Gym, garden, servant’s toilet

Prabhadevi Fully Furnished Apartment • 3BHK • Area 1,800 sq. ft • Marble flooring, modular kitchen, aesthetically furnished • Car parking space and servant’s room with bathroom

Delhi

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 22 66104191/9833392620 or email: mum@globaladjustments.com

Gurgaon, Central Park Property for Rent

Gurgaon, Aralias Duplex penthouse for rent

Delhi, Pushpanjali Spacious house for rent

• Four bedrooms • Centrally airconditioned • 100% security and power backup • Clubhouse, gym and pool • Children's play area

• 5 bedrooms • New , Fully airconditioned • Large terrace and living room • 100% power backup, security, clubhouse • Tennis, swimming pool, spa and restaurant

• 2 acres, landscaped gardens • 5 bedrooms, large living room • Swimming pool, kitchen garden

Delhi, Chanakyapuri Brand new independant house for rent • 6 bedrooms • Brand new, fully arconditioned • Duplex with lift, spacious lviing room • Front garden, park facing

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 124 435 4236/9811111759 or email: del@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

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RNI NO.TNENG/2010/32752 REGISTERED No. TN/CC(S) Dn./396/10-12

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GRT

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Global Adjustments Easing your passage to and from India

Owners, list your property with us for MNC clients. Renters and buyers, we are your one-stop shop for all real estate needs.

Chennai

17 years of bringing the world to India

Spacious Apartment Besant Nagar

Brand New House ECR

Beautiful House Injambakkam

• 1,700 sq.ft.

• 3 bedrooms • Fully furnished • Quiet location

• 5,000 sq.ft.

• 6 bedrooms • Lovely swimming pool • Beautiful garden

• 4,000 sq.ft.

• 3 bedrooms and family room • Luxuriously furnished • Lovely pool and garden

Modern Apartment Alwarpet

Lovely Beachside House Neelangarai

Contemporary House near the Beach Neelangarai (Negotiations Ongoing)

• 1,500 sq.ft.

• 3 bedrooms • Quiet road • Refurbished interiors

• 4,000 sq.ft.

• 3 bedrooms • Gated community • Pool and garden

• 6,000 sq.ft.

• Five bedrooms • Modern, fully furnished • Beautiful garden

Brand New Villa close to the Beach Panayur

Well-Designed New Apartment R.A.Puram

New Apartment Anna Nagar

• 4,000 sq.ft. and four bedrooms • Western style open kitchen, dining & living area with elegant kitchen cabinets • Full electricity back-up with Generator • Sea view with sit-outs and open family lounge

• 2,200 sq.ft. and three bedrooms • Fully furnished with luxurious interiors • Large balconies in 2 bedrooms • Fully equipped kitchen – microwave, induction plate, refrigerator, washing machine

• 2,000 sq.ft. and three bedrooms • Fully furnished • Fully air-conditioned • Close to IT companies

For more such properties, call Global Adjustments at 91 44 24617902/9551695968 (Chennai), or e-mail: realty@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

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RNI NO.TNENG/2010/32752

REGISTERED No. TN/CC(S) Dn./396/10-12