Culturama October 2018

celebrating the 275th Issue of

POWERED BY GLOBAL ADJUSTMENTS

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Talent Sans Borders Worldwide ERC 's CEO, Peggy Smith, on key trends and India's role in the relocation industry ÂŽ

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Hindu Halloween?

No treats, but there are practices to placate, control and even trick spirits

October 2018 Volume 9, Issue 8

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SOPHISTIC

SILK ATION IN

E-1, LOTUS COLONY, CHAMIERS ROAD, NANDANAM, CHENNAI 600 035 | +91 9840977323

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Dear Readers,

When I went to meet my dentist the other day, I was delighted to see a Korean gentleman poring over a copy of Culturama at the clinic. What had prompted him to pick up a magazine with a very South Indian image on the cover, showing a woman bowing down respectfully before a group of men walking in a procession?

Was it the respect shown to age and hierarchy that is common to diverse Asian cultures, I wondered.

After a few minutes, I asked him what he found interesting in the magazine. He answered that he was struck by the article on leadership styles in India, ranging from Tata to Kalam. My toothache had changed my appearance, and he had not recognised me from my photograph inside. I was glad of this candid, first-hand validation that we pique readers’ interests.

This is the 275th issue of Culturama. It has been our pride and joy to write about

this nation, India, which has always fascinated the world – in terms of both trade and tradition, for both material and spiritual pursuits.

When we interviewed Peggy Smith, President and CEO of Worldwide Employee Relocation Council, our Thought Leader for this issue, I was reminded of the first time I met her. It was after she had taken up the reins of the Worldwide ERC® as an experienced mobility professional. She literally took our breath away when she landed in front of 2,000 of us in the audience at the conference at Denver, Colorado – rappelling, jumping and smiling as she found her feet on new terrain.

Metaphorically, that is what the global citizen is doing today – finding his feet after jumping off smart rocks and artificial intelligence surfaces, with the rope of human progress tied firmly to his waist.

Hope you enjoy the interview.

Peggy is our symbolic Western representation of India’s festive season Navaratri, the nine days during which India specially celebrates the trio of Goddesses – the Goddess of Wealth (Lakshmi), the Goddess of Knowledge (Saraswati) and the Goddess of Energy (Durga).

Editor Ranjini Manian Managing Editor Yamini Vasudevan Creative Head Prem Kumar Circulation P. Devaraj Advertising Chennai Shobana Sairaj Bengaluru Meera Roy Delhi/NCR Ruchika Srivastava Mumbai/Pune Ashish Chaulkar

To subscribe to this magazine, e-mail info@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.globaladjustments.com Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 E-mail culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru #333/1, 1st Floor, 9th Main, 14th Cross, 2nd Stage, Indira Nagar, Bangalore - 560038 Tel +91-80-41267152 E-mail culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR Level 4, Augusta Point, Golf Course Road, Sector 53, Gurgaon 122002, Haryana Mobile +91 124 435 4224 E-mail del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai #1102, 11th floor, Peninsula Business Park, Tower B, SB Road, Lower Parel, Mumbai – 400013 Tel +91-22-66879366 E-mail mum@globaladjustments.com Hyderabad Suite-18, 3rd Floor, Rajapushpa Business Centre, Stone Ridge Centre, Opp. Google, Hitec City – Kondapur Main Road Hyderabad – 500 084 Tel +91 40 48687956 E-mail hyd@globaladjustments.com Printed by K Srinivasan and published and owned by Ranjini Manian. Printed at Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 and published at Global Adjustments

Editor | globalindian@globaladjustments.com

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Editor Ranjini Manian

Scattered throughout this issue are little ‘ Key Notes’ on bettering relationships among inter-cultural teams. The tips are structured in the form of questions, to which American and Indian professionals from different industries have shared their thoughts. The pieces are from Make It In India by Ranjini Manian and Joanne Grady Huskey, published by Westland Ltd. (2015). (The answers have been edited for length, and the titles of respondents have been updated as per their current positions.)

Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

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Contents Regulars

14 Thought Leader Peggy Smith, CEO of ERC Worldwide® talks to us about global mobility trends, India’s role in the world economy, and what companies need to work successfully with millennials.

India’s Culture 10

Short Message Service

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture.

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Driving Forces

The concept of karma may be seen as a fatalistic attitude by some – however, it plays a key part in determining social and individual behaviours in India.

Journeys Into India

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At GA Foundation

Global Adjustments Foundation conducted a special workshop for women inmates at Puzhal Prison – the aim was to motivate them towards positive self development.

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Champion Women

Want something but too shy or afraid to ask? There is a way to get past that barrier and get what you want.

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Feature

India’s economic history is key to understanding its character. We look at the trajectory of trade since the 16th century, to understand how India has harnessed the past to progress towards the future.

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Hit The Road

Mauritius has a unique mix of Indianness in its culture – remnants of the migration of people from the subcontinent in the mid-1800s.

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Value Vignettes

Forgiveness does not only help relieve the burden of anger and resentment – it also builds bridges of long-lasting peace.

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Myth & Mythology

Is there such a thing as a Hindu Halloween? We look at the many ways in which ghosts and negative entities are viewed in Indian myths and traditions.

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Holistic Living

In the final years of our lives, we should let go of the past and focus on what we want to make of ourselves.

Look Who’s In Town

Ralph and Sonia Hays from Mumbai talk about finding their feet in a new country.

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Festivals of India

Navarathri is a nine-day celebration of three goddesses, who represent varied facets of our feminine side.

Relocations and Property 62

Space and the City

Property listings in Chennai.

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Cover Image

Featured on our cover this month is Peggy Smith, CEO of Worldwide ERC®. Turn to Thought Leaders (Page 14) for her interview.

Advisory Board Members N. Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editor-in-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu.

Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years before returning to Scotland. She is a freelance writer and graphic designer.

Liz Neisloss is a veteran journalist and writer who has worked for CNN based from Singapore, Chennai and at the United Nations in New York.

She is now based in Mumbai.

G. Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. www.gvenketram.com Annelize Booysen is a business consultant and social entrepreneur. She lived in Asia for more than a decade, which included three years in India. She is currently based in the United States.

Namita Jain, founder of Jaldi Fit, is a leading fitness guru and a businesswoman who helms Kishco, a world-class cutlery brand.

Contributors Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffee table books.

Eknath Easwaran (1910–1999) was a spiritual teacher, author and interpreter of Indian literature. In 1961, he founded the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation and Nilgiri Press in California.

Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. www.devdutt.com Preeti Verma Lal is a New Delhi-based freelance writer/photographer. If God had asked her what she wanted to be, she’d tell Him to turn her into a farmer who also writes lyrically; her fingers stained with wet clay and deep blue ink. Visit her website at www.deepblueink.com

Letters to the Editor Dear Editor,

I am a regular reader of Culturama, and look forward to each issue eagerly. I appreciate the effort you put into communicating India’s traditions and practices in a clear, easy to understand manner.

- Kalpana Rajiv, Chennai

Dear Editor,

Photography is my hobby, and I always enjoy the photos featured in your magazine. I am looking forward to seeing the winning entries from the annual photo competition, and the ways in which they showcase our country.

- Abhinav Kumar, Bengaluru

Culturama is HIRING Culturama is a 23-year-old magazine that has been telling the Indian story to Global citizens. We have 2 full-time positions available in Chennai, and are looking for brilliant folks with 5 years’ design/editorial experience.

Graphic Designer: If you can design with flair and have an eye for detail, send in your CV and 2 design samples to the email given below.

Sub-editor: If planning, editing, writing and coordinating skills are your forte, send in your CV and 2 published/unpublished writing samples to the email given below.

culturama – Subscribe Now! Get your copy of Culturama as a hard copy or as an e-magazine - visit www.culturama.in to subscribe For other enquiries, e-mail us at culturama@globaladjustments.com or call us on +91-44-2461 7902

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NURTURING CREATIVE THINKING

Purpose designed campus I UK / USA qualified teachers International Curriculum I Easily accessible from OMR & ECR

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SMS

by Suzanne McNeill

Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Art/textile/craft: Chamba Rumal Chamba Rumal are delicately embroidered handkerchiefs or cotton squares (rumal means kerchief) from the old princely state of Chama in the western Himalayas, now part of Himachal Pradesh. The craft dates from the 17th century, and was influenced by the miniature Pahari paintings of the region.

Artists drew the designs onto base cloths of fine muslin, which were then embroidered by the women of the region, including members of the Himalayan royal families, in colourful silk threads using a double darning stitch called do-rukha (meaning two-faced) so the design was equally well finished on both sides of the textile. The rumals were used to cover wedding gifts and given to daughters as part of their dowries, so the embroidery depicted scenes of weddings or other auspicious subjects.

Krishna’s dance with the gopis was also a favoured theme, as well as scenes from the epics. The art form lost its royal patronage following Independence and quality deteriorated, but in recent years the craft has been revived and protected.

Food: Country Captain Chicken Curry Anglo-Indian cuisine developed during the colonial period as the memsahibs of the Raj interacted with their Indian cooks, adopting recipes, ingredients and techniques and simplifying them to suit British tastes. To sophisticated palates, dishes were characterised by the use of pre-blended ‘curry powder’, the addition of fruits such as raisins, and hard-boiled eggs. There are some signature dishes that have stood the test of time, including Mulligatawny soup, kedgeree and chutneys. The popular curry named Country Captain may be associated with the 19th century British trade ships called ‘country ships’ whose captains were known as ‘country captains’. The recipe, handed down over generations, is simple: Marinate chicken pieces with garlic and ginger paste, turmeric, black pepper, chilli powder and lime juice. Fry sliced onions with green chillies and add the marinated chicken, frying until golden brown. Then, add chicken stock and simmer until the chicken is tender and the gravy has reduced.

Garnish with fried onions, and serve with chapatis, plain basmati rice and a salad.

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Name: Anita Nair Anita Nair is a bestselling and critically acclaimed novelist and poet, whose works have been translated into 30 languages around the world.

She was born in the town of Shoranur in Kerala in 1966, educated in Chennai, and has a BA in English Language and Literature. Nair wrote her first book, a collection of short stories, in 1997 whilst working as the creative director of an advertising agency in Bengaluru. A novel, The Better Man, followed in 2000, then her breakthrough work Ladies Coupe in 2001, which questions whether a woman can stay single and happy in a male-dominated society through the story of 45-year-old Akhila who buys herself a one-way ticket to the seaside town of Kanyakumari, abandoning her circumscribed life as daughter, sister, aunt and provider. Nair describes her novels as the result of much thought and pondering and intense research. For instance, Ladies Coupe was inspired by the conversations in the sleeping berth of the ladies compartment during a real-life train journey.

She has published several more novels. Idris, Keeper of the Light, set in 17th century India and woven around the story of a restless Somalian trader who visits Malabar, was shortlisted for the Hindu Prize, 2014. In a change of direction, she has begun a series of crime novels set in the seedier side of Bengaluru and based on her fictional detective, Inspector Gowda. Chain of Custody in 2016 is a sequel to A Cut-Like Wound, 2012, and is based on her own observations of a child trafficker at a shelter as well as a real-life account that was recounted to her.

Word: Haat

Nair also writes for children and was awarded the Central Sahitya Akademi Award, given to Indian writers for books of outstanding merit, for her contribution to children’s literature in 2013. The screenplay for the movie adaptation of her novel Lessons in Forgetting won the National film Award in 2013. Nair is the founder of the creative writing and mentorship programme, Anita’s Attic.

A haat is a simple open-air market or bazaar that is held once or twice a week. It is the oldest type of marketing channel in rural India and sells anything from fresh vegetables, fruits and clothes to agricultural equipment and consumer products.

They are often quite basic, lacking amenities such as water supply or electricity, and there may be no proper connections to roads. Nonetheless, the haat plays a major role in the rural economy. Managed by village panchayats, they allow farmers and artisans direct access to customers. Spaces are auctioned by local bodies who also issue permits to vendors to use these haats. For villagers, the haat can often be the only market for certain foodstuffs and household items, but they are also affordable compared to shops. The haat is also a prime opportunity for social gatherings.

Dilli Haat in Delhi is a permanent handicraft market built on 6 acres of reclaimed land and styled with small cottages and kiosks to give a village atmosphere.

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Peggy Smith, CEO of Worldwide ERCÂŽ, at the 2018 conference in Dallas, United States.

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Thought Leader

by Yamini Vasudevan & Anupama Arvind

Talent Sans Borders To survive in the ever-changing global arena, companies should rework their strategy, keeping in mind that borders cannot act as barriers against talent mobility. Peggy Smith, President of Worldwide ERCÂŽ, tells us more

Peggy Smith is the person to turn to for all things related to companies making an overseas move, and, more importantly, sustaining and building their presence there. After all, she is the President and CEO of Worldwide ERCÂŽ , an organisation that functions as the primary source of information, education and networking for the worldwide workforce mobility industry, for over 8,000 member companies.

With the millennial workforce increasing in size and impact, global communications creating new avenues to connect for work and play, technology acting as a key disruptor and political changes affecting economic and social linkages, companies are grappling with a wide range of issues. It is key to note here that expansion overseas is not just affected by these factors but also by the individual employee’s ability to adapt Global Adjustments has been a member of Worldwide ERC for over 15 years. We take pride in this association, and look forward to continued fruitful partnership.

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and form positive work relations with his/her counterparts from other countries and cultures. It is these issues that Peggy looks into – and seeks to help companies handle issues on talent management and retention, mobility strategies and workplace harmony between members of different generations and cultural backgrounds. Under her, the Worldwide ERC® expanded its reach further in the APAC (Asia-Pacific), EMEA (Europe, Middle East and Africa) and LATAM (Latin America) regions.

In this interview with Culturama, she shares her thoughts on several topics, which include noteworthy trends in the mobility arena, some key pointers to ensure harmonious working relationships across borders and India’s potential role in the global workforce arena.

As CEO of Worldwide ERC®, you have a ring seat in the global arena.

What are some notable trends you have observed in terms of the attitude towards mobility and exploring hitherto unknown regions through job opportunities?

One overarching trend is that we see our workforce now as one big pool of talent, rather than as segmented by regions or countries. We refer to the ‘global workforce’, knowing that deploying talent around the world is much more fluid. And regarding technology and data, the future of recruiting and hiring is increasingly going to be accomplished through global talent mapping – tracking talent within a particular labour market, with a particular skillset, so that we have insight analytics on whether to deploy someone to a location, or whether that talent can be found right in that market.

In India, you’re experiencing a trend that has been highlighted by globalisation: bringing more women into the workforce.

According to the World Bank, only 27 per cent of working-age Indian women have paid jobs. Like other countries, for India to realise its full potential, it is important to maximise the number of able citizens in the labour force – that is how economies grow. As more companies choose to do business in India and encourage more female participation, the number of women in the workforce will rise.

You stated in an interview with Global Mobility Insider that ‘the world’s talent pool has never been more mobile’. Given this, what are three things that employers must keep in mind when hiring (across levels)?

Be aware that employees are vetting employers as much as they are being sized up as a potential employee!

Employees today want experiences – which is why they are so inclined to global opportunities – and they want to work for companies that match their values, that have a social conscience and a purpose, and offer flexibility in addition to good compensation.

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Peggy moderating the 2017 Global Workforce Symposium thought leaders panel.

We are entering an environment where constant upskilling is a necessity. Employers are finding that sometimes it is advisable to hire for the job and then train for the future skills they need. We will see companies incorporate training by partnering with brick and mortar or online educators and integrating employee learning into the flow of everyday work, delivering it at the point of need. Similarly, top talent is looking for training and career guidance to advance, so employers do not want to lose skilled professionals to competitors who are providing this kind of leadership.

There is a growing contingent population of skilled workers and business-savvy professionals who can fill gaps in talent and competencies. Many of these individuals are or have been in traditional jobs, but crave the independence and entrepreneurial option of on-demand work. As the talent crunch gets tighter, employers will want to develop their ability to seek such workers to complete their workforce.

What are some key human values that are important for companies and individuals to successfully work with people across cultures and borders?

‘Practising good global citizenship’ is my best answer!

But let’s break it down – some of the top values include empathy, respect, flexibility, resilience, collaboration and cooperation. And while this next thought doesn’t fall under values, I’ll share that I also think it’s important to have a blend of temperaments to work well in a global team. We all process information differently, and when we have a mix of people who contribute a spectrum of dynamic, analytical, conceptual, expressive and visionary perspectives, the outcome is often extraordinary.

How is India expected to impact the global workforce scene as a mobility destination?

It is exciting to watch India’s emerging role in global business and its growing reputation as a high-potential

How have you adjusted meeting protocol in order to manage meetings with multi-cultural teams?

We had to work at making meetings effective; it didn’t just happen. Finding a way to allow Indian nationals to participate more easily in meetings was very important. At first they were rather quiet. The process was to give them their voice. Indians speak beautiful English, so if we give them the opportunity to speak and draw them out by assigning roles, Indian teams can be most forthcoming and productive at meetings. Our best practices and processes worked so well in India that we went to China to set up the China plant, replicating the Indian model.

Phil Spender, former President of Ford India

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w w w. a i s c h e n n a i . o r g The Grade 4 students in the French and Spanish classes have been researching different countries that speak French or Spanish. They then prepared creative projects to showcase their learning, and they presented them to everyone at the gallery walk!

#AcademicExcellence

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market. Digital technologies are driving business, and we’re seeing companies recognise India’s capabilities in big data and analytics, artificial intelligence, machine learning, IoT (the Internet of Things), blockchain and robotics. This transition of India to a country with new revenue sources for MNCs, and not just as a means of cost reduction or productivity improvement, opens the country to great possibilities as a mobility destination.

As borders become stronger and countries become more stringent about entry requirements, will the mobility scene see a decline in terms of expat assignments? How will it impact the larger global business ecosystem?

Over many years, we have developed a worldwide multilateral system that is made up of the world’s economies. If significant participants pull away from the global economy or established trade agreements, the impact may be significant. It is a delicate balance to manage immigration and still allow for skilled foreigners to enter a country to augment the workforce. We have certainly seen more countries adopt nationalistic policies, which reduces the ability to bring in talent from other regions and slows the flow of globalisation. And we have also seen other countries opening their borders more flexibly, as with France’s easy-to-access tech visa for founders, employees, and investors; and Canada’s Express Entry and Skilled Worker programmes.

Countries and companies that understand growth and expansion know that, no matter what, we are a world that is connected and interdependent across borders, countries, and continents. They will always seek that balance, and they will always need outside talent to succeed. So while we may see a flattening of assignments in some locations, there will be other regions that encourage an influx of workers.

Peggy at the 2018 conference in Dallas, United States.

Millennials are said to move between jobs and locations quickly, because of their need for change and novelty.

What are some key changes they might introduce in the workplaces and in the larger mobility scene?

This is a generation that is good at asking ‘Why not?’ and ‘What if?’ Because millennials question the status quo so compellingly, they have changed whole industries as a result. And this same propensity to challenge tradition is changing the way we manage mobility.

As an American who leads an Indian team, how should I balance my casual, familiar style with maintaining decorum?

Coming across as formal and efficient is important, and you have to work on that as a Westerner. You can’t be too casual. You’ve got to be mindful of the situation. Being boyish and cool and hip doesn’t work well in the beginning. You can become friends later on, but at the start, Indians do expect some sense of formality.

Zia Mody, AZB & Partners, India

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Bringing the world to India

Global standards. Indian warmth.

Creating Empowered Global Citizens

Relocation | Realty | Academy | Publishing | Foundation

www.globaladjustments.com Follow us:

/globaladjustments

/globaladjustments

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(From left) Dan Duffy, Chief Product Officer at Ineo; Susan Schneider, former Worldwide ERC Chairman and CEO of Plus Relocation; and Peggy Smith.

When we look through their lens at information delivery, it’s clear that millennials have been a driver for companies to make everything mobile so that information and tools can be accessed across multiple devices. That makes content and training (even on issues like business culture, language and intercultural business skills) accessible for workers in any time zone and enables people to be where they need to be when they need to be there…and that drives engagement and retention.

We know that younger professionals crave experiences, and a natural next step is for companies to leverage mobility as a component of their rewards programme. Companies might consider thinking of rewards as experiences rather than as financial remuneration: for example, a short-term global assignment could be an incentive for meeting deliverables; or employers could add a ‘bleisure’ (business + leisure) element to a business meeting to recognise an employee for executing a successful project.

As adventurous as our younger generations are – a trait that makes them more interested in global assignments – some in the mobility industry have encountered situations where a younger person changes his or her mind about the assignment before it is completed, and lacks awareness about the impact that might have on the business initiative. We are likely to see companies developing assignments in a manner that gives employees a global experience without risking an abbreviated mission.

Photos: Courtesy Peggy Smith

Anupama Arvind is Senior Vice President – Business Strategy at Global Adjustments.

Byte-size Wisdom Microsoft to Worldwide ERC – what is your leadership mantra?

Get to know the culture and the individuals first – everything else follows.

Who is an empowered woman?

I always have loved the wisdom of writer and poet Maya Angelou, who gave us so much good guidance for life. One of my favourites is, “When you learn, teach.

When you get, give.”

Effective parenting is… raising an independent child who still wants to be close to the family.

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info@thepurpleturtles.com www.thepurpleturtles.com

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Indiranagar: 080 - 4152 8039 Jayanagar: 080 - 2664 2552 Chennai: 044 - 4859 0912

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Prison No Bar Inmates in penitentiaries are in great need of resources that enhance their physical and mental wellness – as this will inspire them to build their lives in a positive manner during and after their sentence.

Superintendent of Police, Rukmani Priyadhashini (in police uniform), a regular meditator, manages two facilities, 800 men and 140 women inmates with poise. Seen with her (L to R) are Ranjini Manian, Usha Ramakrishnan and Lakshmi Subramanian of Global Adjustments Foundation

Champion Women programme participants at Puzhal Prison practice 'mantram art' – picking a word or phrase to keep the mind calm.

Global Adjustments Foundation recently conducted a special two-hour workshop for women inmates of Puzhal Prison – the aim was to inspire them with positivity, towards the higher purpose of nation building

On September 18, Global Adjustments Foundation commemorated the theme of non-violence week with a two-hour workshop for 100 women prison inmates at Puzhal Prison, Chennai. The session covered physical wellness, mental wellness and emotional well-being. This is a oneof-a-kind initiative, but one that is much needed for the recipients. Mrs. Rukmini Priyadarshini, Superintendent of Police (who handles the prisons), later shared that, while people leading regular lives have access to facilities to learn skills and values, inmates in prison need someone to visit them and bring these resources within their reach. Global Adjustments Foundation believes firmly in the positive potential of these programmes – one woman prisoner inspired today could mean 10 crimes less for society tomorrow.

We believe that champion women will enhance their confidence and do a fantastic job in nation building, irrespective of where they come from, where they are at present in society and in their own life journey. Interacting with the women at Puzhal Prison was a reminder for us to work harder to free ourselves from the prison of our minds through the means of physical and mental wellness. Our thanks go out to the Tamil Nadu police force for believing in our work.

If you are a manager in a corporate organisation, college or high school, please invite us to hold a sample seminar to empower women at your institution. The seminars will be free of cost for the institution and trainees. Content can be tailor-made on request.

Call Usha Ramakrishnan, Director, Global Adjustments Foundation at +91-9840520394 or e-mail usha@globaladjustments.com Follow us on:

/GlobalAdjustments

/GlobalAdjustmentsFoundation

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Champion Women

by Ranjini Manian

Women, Ask Nicely for What You Want We often tend to lose out on opportunities because of our inability to speak up when needed My friend recently told me she had been kicking herself for a lost opportunity. She had sat at a dinner table where the founder of the company joined them. Her husband, who sat between her and the founder, chatted up a storm. My friend, however, lost out because the nice woman to her left kept engaging her in conversation. So, she didn’t get to participate or listen to their leader, who she greatly admired. She says she ‘should’ve nicely’ told her chatty neighbour to quieten down.

But she didn’t, and she repented the loss of a oncein-a-lifetime opportunity.

Recently, I boarded a flight to Mumbai as the last person. On entering the aircraft, I saw that the first row seats were empty. So, I asked the in-flight attendant how come I was not given this seat at the counter, even though I’d offered to pay for extra legroom? She looked around, smiled warmly and said, “You may please take the seat.” She even served me cashews and juice, which went with the seat, as a gesture of goodwill and at no extra cost.

I thought about these two scenarios and how the desired end result is met. Intelligence has nothing to do with it. My friend is an amazingly smart scientist. Speaking up has everything to do with it. I speak up, because no one I know is a mind reader.

Quick thinking greatly helps. The moment of opportunity passes too soon, so drop the agonizing

We told our government leader about our work, and got this inspiring note – a recent, real life example of 'ask nicely for what you want'.

Presenting Global Adjustments Foundation's white paper to ADGP Mr Shukla IPS, Director – Prisons, a scientific study of the impact of these life-coaching workshops.

mind, shush it. Ask right away. No, you won’t be guillotined. Smiling and asking for our need is a winning formula. Then we can avoid the ‘Shoulda, coulda, woulda’ tune that keeps playing in our head afterwards.

How to ask? By simply asking.

Ask now. Ask for what you need. Ask nicely. Apologise for asking.

Ask anyway. You may not always get what you asked for. Accept that too. But you will be glad you tried asking. And, hey, you may well get what you asked for!

Ranjini Manian is the Founder–Chairperson of Global Adjustments Foundation, and aims to use life coaching for mindful living to encourage women's empowerment. She can be contacted for further questions on gender at globalindian@globaladjustments.com

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Driving Forces

by Suzanne McNeill

The Karma

Factor Belief in the adage of ‘as you sow, so shall you reap’ is strongly embedded in Indians’ minds – and overlaid by multiple beliefs and superstitions that influence their behaviour and decisions on a daily basis

Photo: Jocelyn WRIGHT, New Zealand

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Indians are disposed to believe in supernatural influences, particularly with regard to life’s successes or misfortunes.

Belief in good or bad luck is integral to the lives of many Indian people; not everything that’s taught requires a rational or scientific explanation. This manifests in concepts and actions that are practised across the country.

Taking a Closer Look The adage ‘As you sow, so shall you reap’ exists in most major philosophies. In India, this is encapsulated in the idea of karma, which came from Hindu thinking in ancient times but which still dictates behaviour in modern India and encompasses all other values. What you do comes back to you – so, if you don’t want to be lied to, then don’t lie; if you don’t want to be kept waiting in a meeting or by a customer, then don’t keep others waiting; if you don’t want your spouse to be flirted with, then please don’t flirt with other people’s spouses.

Charitable feeding is seen as a way to gain merit.

This concept motivates the behaviour of even the most impoverished in India. Although there are so many people living in difficult situations, the amount of social unrest is less than would be expected in other parts of the world. This comes from the underlying belief that what I have now, good or bad, is the result of what I have done, good or bad, in this lifetime but it is also a throwback to reincarnation across several lifetimes. So, what I have now, in my control, is only the way that I think, speak and act from this moment on.

Photo: Didem ATAHAN-FABIG, UK

Guests, no matter what their age or stature, are seen as a representation of God, and hence extended generous hospitality.

Photo: Christèle GAUTHIER

Belief in karma is not fatalistic. Instead, it says, I can’t do anything about what has already happened in a previous lifetime, but by doing the right things I’m in control of my future life, which will be better as a consequence.

Of Legend and Myth A principle that underlies the beliefs and superstitions of Indians is the Vedic duty of Atithi, meaning ‘guest’.

Hospitality is a duty and a guest has to be honoured. Sanskrit scripture declares ‘atithidevo bhava’, meaning ‘be one for whom the guest is god’. The unexpected visitor (a-tithi meaning ‘one who comes without a date’) is the Lord himself.

Indians will always make room for more people, and will share food, make conversation and learn more about the visitors so as to connect at a deeper level. Guests will be garlanded in hotels, at functions or in workplaces, offered lots of food, drink and generous hospitality. Neglecting a guest is believed to bring misfortune.

The Here and Now There are several things that Indians will do on a daily or weekly basis that stem from the belief that merit, punya, can

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The common practice of watering and nurturing the tulsi (holy basil) plant stems from the belief that it is a way of showing respect to nature.

Crows are fed rice, as the birds are seen as representatives of the family's ancestors.

To ward off the 'evil eye', a demon's face is painted on a pumpkin, and the fruit is symbolically smashed.

Photo: Fabian Lange,Germany

be collected by doing good things, and papa, sins, avoided by shunning things that are wrong. For instance, it is believed that the ancestors come back as crows, and so feeding crows with rice shows reverence to the ancestors. Indians will look after family elders in a joint home, or give donations to an old age home. Respect is shown to nature by feeding animals

or watering a tulsi (holy basil) plant, and to the ancient scriptures by committing texts to memory and repeating them to ensure religious practices live on. Charity is offered to fellow human beings by giving rice to the poor. All these things bring merit and good luck, but cannot undo the wrong things an individual may have done. If I have hurt someone, say, injured their eye, it is given that I will receive an injury back to my eye. When it happens, if I have done good things as well as bad, then perhaps the affliction will be minor, a loss of an eyelash.

Cultural Expressions Belief in the evil eye is very common and is thought to be rooted in jealousy, attracting negative elements or misfortune. One way to ward off the evil eye is by painting demon faces on melons and pumpkins, which are then symbolically smashed in the road, or on masks that are placed in homes, offices and construction sites. A person who looks at the place with envy will be distracted by the demon face, and their jealousy is deflected and cancelled out.

Why is my expat boss so sceptical when I ask for time off to attend personal extended family functions?

Americans are much more prone to be workaholics than Indians, and Americans take far fewer vacation days than do Europeans. In the United States, it is nose-to-the-grindstone while working, with family often taking second place. This work–life balance is very different, even reversed, in India, where the family unit is very tight and often takes precedence over work. Expats need to understand this different value system.

David Sloan, Senior Advisor, The Scowcroft Group & President, Corporate Strategies International LLC

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the country, a way of thinking that binds relationships in a unique way.

World Echoes

A pictorial representation of vaastu.

Greeks protect themselves against the evil eye by wearing a charm called a mati, whilst the ghoulish faces carved or painted onto pumpkins during Halloween in the United States are meant to frighten away wandering evil spirits. In the United Kingdom, if someone spills salt, once a precious commodity, they will then throw a pinch of it over their left shoulder to ward off bad luck.

A black dot is placed on the cheek of a baby or child to protect it from negative forces. Photo: Lee Webb

Similarly, a black dot will be placed on the cheek of a new-born baby or black kohl applied to the eyes. This small flaw will deter someone who might otherwise long to possess the child. A combination of a lemon, seven fresh green chillies and a piece of charcoal is hung at the doorway to protect a home from evil spirits, or tied to a new car.

Eventually it will be thrown away on the open road, far from the dwelling.

All these superstitions are perpetuated in the belief that whatever someone has is given to them by the divine and by their own hard work, but they should also make sure that other people around them don’t become envious of what they have. Such superstition is well understood by people across

In Conclusion…

Belief in the supernatural has expanded to encompass Indians’ widespread belief in systems such as astrology, used to determine the most auspicious time for an activity and for shortlisting potential spouses in an arranged marriage, and in numerology, a belief in the divine or mystical relationship between numbers and events. Numerology incites Indians to pay large sums of money to buy certain number sequences for their car registration plates! The principles of vaastu, a code that dictates the most propitious layout for a building, has become a prime factor in the design and marketing of real estate in India with new buildings certified ‘vaastu compliant’.

As visitors to this land, our role is to understand the values behind behaviour and thus respect it. Who knows we may take one or two of these values back home, too!

Are there differences in how you create gender equity in the workplace in India, versus in the West?

I had the opportunity to work on this very important initiative at IBM. It was called the ‘India Women Leadership Council’. There were many challenges – women dropping off after marriage citing personal reasons, need for flexible work environment, and so on. We launched a ‘Get Women Back to Work’ programme to encourage them to rejoin IBM. We organized annual events on this agenda and brought successful women from diverse fields to speak and share their personal success stories. These initiatives created a special platform for women to learn, network, and grow.

Shanker Annaswamy, Former MD of IBM India Private Limited

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7.50%

5.12%

3.54%

0.97% 0.19%

0.38%

Narendra Damodardas Modi, the Prime Minister of India, in one of his memorable Independence Day addresses, made a powerful statement: “I want to appeal to all the people world over...‘Come, make in India’, ‘Come, manufacture in India’. Sell in any country of the world but manufacture here. We have got skill, talent, discipline, and determination to do something. We want to give the world a favourable opportunity.” The Prime Minister’s words were more than just a clarion call: they mark three significant aspects of India’s development as a country. One, they are testimony to India’s optimism and confidence in its own ability to create a bright future. Second, they convey the country’s openness to collaborate with other countries, and its decision to be a willing player in the world market. Third, they seem to have stemmed from an idea that powered the country’s Independence Movement – Swadeshi. While the earlier concept of swadeshi was for Indians to make their own goods for personal consumption, and thereby avoiding foreign goods, India is now looking to make and export to the rest of the world.

0.23%

Trade and manufacturing are not new to the subcontinent. India was once one of the biggest economies on the global scene. However, policy changes – influenced by changes in the political landscape – meant a shift in gear for a few decades. During that time, a sense of unease with regard to opening up the economy and collaborating with multi-national corporations persisted.

All that changed with the economic crisis of the 1990s, and made way for a shift in the country’s psyche. To provide a holistic understanding of just how far India has come, we trace the subcontinent’s journey from the 16th century to more recent times.

1500–1820 The World’s Market India’s annual average rate of growth of GDP : 0.19% In 1700, India’s economy represented roughly a quarter of the world’s trade. A trading society since the Bronze Age civilisation of the Indus Valley, India is estimated to have had

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Feature

by Suzanne McNeill

coming a full circle

A country’s economy and politics are closely linked – and a greater understanding of these is necessary to truly comprehend its character. Culturama traces the journey of India’s economy since the 16th century – and shows how the country has come full circle, learning from the past to create a positive future

the largest economy of the ancient and medieval world until the 17th century.

By the time the Mughal Empire was coming to an end, India was far more prosperous than any of the European countries whose merchants came to trade for textiles and spices. The country’s mercantile and banking institutions were sophisticated for the time, and such business ventures were formed and run by long-established trading families from India’s many castes and communities. The West Coast Parsis and Gujaratis were experienced navigators, shipbuilders and foreign traders. The Jains and Marwaris were moneylenders and bankers, whilst the southern Chettiars were a famous merchant community. To this day, members of these old trading families dominate the business activity of the country.

European merchants had been trading with the coastal communities of India for centuries, and by the 17th century had begun to establish permanent footholds along the peninsula seaboard. The Mughal Emperor Jahangir (1605– 1627) enthusiastically agreed to a commercial treaty with

IMAGEs: All vintage images from ImagesofAsia.com

the British East India Company, which gave them exclusive rights to build warehouses to hold the goods they collected before shipping to Europe in return for goods and rarities from the European markets. The Company invested in textiles, particularly calico and muslin – all the rage in Europe – and by the 18th century had expanded into cotton, silk, dyes, saltpetre for gunpowder, and tea.

From humble beginnings, the Jagat Seth family, part of the Marwari community, had risen to become powerful businessmen and moneylenders, controlling the revenues paid

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by the Nawab of Bengal into the Imperial mint. Such was their status at the Mughal court that the Emperor conferred the title ‘banker of the world’ on the family’s charismatic head. They engaged with the European powers as money brokers, monopolising the exchange of bullion and lending money to foreign merchants, British, French, Armenian alike, and eventually conspired with the British to depose the Nawab of Bengal at the Battle of Plassey in 1757 in favour

The East India Company invested in textiles such as calico and muslin.

in bullion, to being an exporter of raw materials, and an importer of the manufactured goods made possible by the onset of the Industrial Revolution in Britain and beyond.

This exploitation of India’s resources devastated the economy, and delayed the country’s industrialisation.

The indigo plantations of Bengal and Bihar were an important economic aspect to emerging British power in India. This valuable dye called ‘blue gold’ was one of the most profitable commodities traded by the East India Company, which controlled production. Farmers who leased land from local zamindars (the aristocratic landowners) were compelled to grow indigo or pay a fine, and received a miserly payment for their crops. In 1859, the farmers’ resentment led to a nonviolent uprising against the oppression of the planters. This was suppressed, but influenced public opinion significantly (a British official noted that ‘not a chest of indigo reached England without being stained with human blood’).

Championed by Gandhi a hundred years later, non-violent resistance aimed at undermining the colonial economy was to become the route to India’s independence.

1870–1913 of a rival. This was to give the East India Company its first decisive victory in India and helped establish its principal trading colony.

India’s Entrepreneurs India’s annual average rate of growth of GDP : 0.97%

1820–1870

Raw jute being carried to the mills.

Colonial Dominance India’s annual average rate of growth of GDP : 0.38% The political power of the East India Company gradually expanded throughout India from 1757 onwards. It gained the right to collect revenue in Bengal in 1765, and soon stopped importing the money it had used to pay for goods shipped back to Britain. Instead, the Company used the revenue collected from the provinces under its rule to purchase Indian raw materials, goods and spices, as well as to finance the wars it waged to gain more territory. India changed from being an exporter of processed goods for which it received payment

By the final quarter of the 19th century, the Indian economy had changed fundamentally. The fine cottons and silks once exported to markets in Europe, Asia and Africa

What is the right strategy for reward? If we praise one star performer on an Indian team in public, there are three others in the back sulking.

This is to some extent true in the United States, too. In India, we tended to reward teams together, but there is a philosophy promoted by Jack Welch: Be honest with people and reward top performers and get rid of your bottom performers. Our salary structures are usually done that way. That is kind of the way of the world. That said, try to recognise the whole team, if possible. For example, give certificates for the whole team.

Sherry Murphree, Independent Consultant, Former Director at The Dow Chemical Company

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Yoga power True yoga is not about the shape of your body, but the shape of your life. Yoga is not to be performed; yoga is to be lived.

Yoga doesn’t care about what you have been; yoga cares about the person you are becoming.”

– Aadil Palkhivala, Master Yoga Teacher, attorney and keynote speaker

Building a Global Team

The month of August proved truly exciting for GA Academy in more ways than one, as they ran a diverse spectrum of programs for clients across industries and locations across the country.

Mando-Halla Automotive India Ltd believes strongly in what Mark Sanborn had to say: “In teamwork, silence isn’t golden, it’s deadly.” For 4 weeks, 55 managers and senior managers, Indians and Koreans, worked together, assisted by our facilitators, to break down the deafening silence and create a working model of collaboration, channels of open communication and, most of all, mutual respect.

Here, you see them working together – to achieve this goal.

Our programmes on inter-cultural leadership and team building can be tailor-made. Contact Vyjayamthi at:

Call: +91-95516 95967 Email: vyjayanthi@globaladjustments.com

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were replaced by raw materials – cotton to English factories in Lancashire, opium and indigo, sugarcane and tea – and India now imported manufactured goods, often the same finished cotton fabric now returned to its origin. Yet the well-known business communities – the Jains, Chettiars and Marwaris, the Parsis and the West Coast Muslims – continued to thrive, through partnerships and trading groups that evolved into managing agency houses. These gradually bought into and replaced many British businesses, particularly in the jute and tea plantations.

Local attempts to found cotton factories in India – after all, India was providing both raw material and markets – naturally followed. Parsi businessman C.N. Davar (1814–1873) built on the family business as brokers for English commercial firms engaged in trade with India and China to participate in a number of new and successful ventures in banking, shipping J.N Tata and engineering, and ultimately a textile mill to spin yarn. Davar’s contemporaries soon followed, and by 1862 British officials were warning that Indian competitors would inevitably undermine their Lancashire counterparts. Eighty-six textile mills had been built by 1900.

India’s greatest industrialist, J.N. Tata (1839–1904; also from the Parsi community) began his career in 1877 in the textile trade. His vision was bold from the start – importing a finer quality of cotton yarn from Egypt than available locally and, importantly, investing in sophisticated machinery from the United States, whose output could compete with British

English mills were threatened by high-quality cotton fabric produced by India.

imports and would make the products globally competitive.

His vision was pioneering, and he identified three key areas for India: steel, electricity and scientific research. J.N. Tata laid the foundations for Tata Steel (formerly Tata Iron & Steel Company, now the world’s fifth largest steel company), Tata Power Company Ltd. (currently India’s largest private electricity company), and the Indian Institute of Science (the pre-eminent Indian institution for research and education in science and engineering).

1913–1950 The Swadeshi Movement India’s annual average rate of growth of GDP : 0.23% Demands for independence were growing by the early years of the 20th century. Alongside the call for independence, there was also a call for Swadeshi, a strategy that aimed at improving economic conditions in India by following the Hindu principles of self-sufficiency.

By boycotting British products, reviving indigenous manufacturing and buying locally made goods, Indians would ensure their resources did not leave the country’s shores.

G. D. Birla (1894–1983) was born into the Marwari community. Although his family were traditionally moneylenders, G. D. Birla began his career in the jute business in Calcutta, and saw his business soar as the outbreak of war caused supply problems throughout the British Empire. Birla

At a business meal, how can an Indian hold his or her own as a vegetarian teetotaler?

So long as you don’t have an inferiority complex, it is never an issue. I have seen senior leaders in Europe and the United States who respect your sense of dignity and purpose. Don’t be defensive. Your personal preference is your own. It doesn’t make you any higher or lower. In the United States, too, people are choosing to be vegetarian or even vegan (no meat or dairy), so the concept is more accepted these days. Sip juice or club soda while others drink a glass of wine. Learn to relish a salad and sandwich as a vegetarian and not be stuck on hot look-alike Indian food.

Krishna Kumar, Former director of Tata Sons; member of Tata Administrative Service; trustee of Sir Dorabji Tata Trust

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Conglomerates such as those of the Tata and Birla families would continue to operate throughout the economy and were required to meet the demand for consumer goods. The government assumed direct control of heavy industry, and employment in the state sector exploded.

In the spirit of Swadeshi and to protect domestic industry, the government blocked foreign investment and set very high import tariffs. It thwarted private competition by instituting a convoluted system of elaborate licenses, regulations and accompanying red tape that earned it the nickname ‘License Raj’; up to 80 government agencies had to be satisfied before private businesses could be set up, and their production was to come under government regulation. The result was decline and economic slowdown as aspiring businessmen were put off by the regimen of approvals. By 1973, India’s economy had declined to a 3.1% share of world income.

Jawaharlal Nehru

Mills was established in 1919 in Gwalior, and Birla soon ventured into other enterprises, building up a huge empire scattered throughout the country that encompassed sugar and paper mills, tea and textiles, cement, chemicals, rayon, The Hindustan Times newspaper, Hindustan Motors and the aluminium producer Hindalco. Birla was a close associate and supporter of Mahatma Gandhi, and his empire encompassed almost all the sectors that independent India would need.

The endeavours of pioneers such as Birla ensured that India would have the indigenous industries she needed to support meaningful independence.

Not everyone capitulated, however. Dhirubhai Ambani (1932–2002) was an ambitious business tycoon who founded Reliance Industries, now one of the world’s biggest conglomerates and the first Indian company to feature in the Forbes 500 list. After a formative spell working in Yemen, Ambani began his entrepreneurial career in Mumbai in 1958, exporting spices to the Gulf States and importing polyester yarns. Soon Reliance began producing nylon

1950–1973 Independence and the Five-Year Plans India’s annual average rate of growth of GDP : 3.54% Whilst Gandhi advocated the empowerment of village communities as the basis for the new nation, others believed that modern technology and industry would transform the economy. Congress leaders formulated a new model that combined a centrally planned controlled economy with social justice and would balance the market and the state. Private enterprise was to subordinate its interests to the requirements of the overall plan and be content with the limited profits that were in accord with the objectives of a welfare state.

textiles at a mill in Ahmedabad under the brand name ‘Vimal’. By 1972, the textiles business was a household brand across India. During the 1980s, Reliance expanded into petrochemicals, and oil and gas exploration, then diversified into telecommunications, IT and logistics.

1973–2001 Economic Liberalisation India’s annual average rate of growth of GDP : 5.12% Jawaharlal Nehru’s vision of a new India was created for the best of purposes – to build a proud new nation based on

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democracy and socialism – but it led to an over-regulation that, instead of lifting the country out of poverty, burdened it with bureaucratic hurdles and stifled its innovators. In 1991, a balance of payment crisis brought India close to default, and intervention by the International Monetary Fund began the processes of liberalising the economy and opening it up to foreign investment.

2001–Present Doing Business in India India’s current average rate of growth of GDP : 8.2% The changes made by the Indian government from 1991 onwards focused on creating export-led capabilities and building economic stability. These efforts at liberalisation have made for a consistently high economic growth rate and more opportunity for companies to do business in India.

Under the new open-door policy, foreign direct investment is now possible in Indian ventures in many fields, and successful partnerships have been launched in a wide variety of sectors from construction, energy and automobiles to insurance and waste disposal!

Success in the service sector – communications, IT and the ‘back office’ projects established by so many international corporations – is the fuel for much of the country’s dizzying growth, an average of 7% annually since 1994. Bengaluru in southern India is now a global IT centre. In 2007, it boasted of 150,000 IT professionals compared to 120,000 in California’s Silicon Valley, and the city’s growth has continued into this decade, with the number of new residents with technical talent outstripping that of the San Francisco area (recorded at 44% compared to 31% for California). Chennai, Hyderabad and Pune also outstripped their US counterpart as global destinations for technical talent. Many of the world’s major

Narendra Modi

IT corporations – including Microsoft, Google and IBM – have a major presence in Bengaluru, whilst the number of high calibre start-ups is also on the rise.

Today, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi has raised the call of ‘Make in India’ by which he invites multinational companies from around the world to set up their businesses in the country. It shows a clear return to the roots of the Swadeshi idea – the country utilising its strengths and resources for the common good. This self-assurance also demonstrates that India has lost its fear of being dominated by other external forces, and has instead become confident that it can work hand in hand with external partners for mutual benefit. In many ways, India has come full circle, learning from the past to create a positive future.

Is researching your expat business guests a good thing for preparation?

Absolutely, and nowadays with resources like Facebook, you can empower yourself with knowledge; you don’t go into a meeting without specific information. You do not write a generic e-mail saying, “Hi, can I have a meeting?” Find out what is going on in their life and craft a real message. It is unbelievable how often people don’t do that, and actually it is so simple.

I apply that to a client presentation as well; you never go to a client with a vanilla presentation, saying this is what you have. To me, if it doesn’t have some logo, or some product of theirs, where it shows you put some thought into what their needs are and how we can solve them, then, I don’t even go there.

Kirthiga Reddy, Technology Executive, Board Member and Angel Investor; Former MD, Facebook India and South Asia

Historical GDP figures from the work of historian and economist Angus Maddison.

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Hit the Road

by Preeti Verma Lal

Bhojpuri, Creole and Dal-Puri The island nation of Mauritius has a unique stamp of Indianness on its cultural landscape – a trait derived from the movement of Indians from across the subcontinent in the mid-1800s

All photos by Preeti Verma Lal

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Name: Ninhoo. | Age: 15. | Father’s name: Dhojoo.

Caste: Coormie. | Mark: Small mole on throat. | Village: Dumrawo. | Pargana: Bhojepore.

Zilla: Arrah.

Images of early Indian indentured labourers in Port Louis' Apravasi Ghat Museum (Top) The Apravasi Ghat is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site

It must have been raining hard in Dumrawo when a young Ninhoo signed up with the British recruiting agent to sail for Mauritius. With dreams in his eyes, he must have boarded the gleaming Rustomjee Cowasjee ship that weighed 764 tons and was licensed to carry 270. Ninhoo must have sailed for six weeks on Rustomjee. He landed in Port Louis on October 8, 1849, and must have walked up those 16 steps at what is now the Aapravsi Ghat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. He must have bathed, cringed at the vaccination, slept at the depot for two days, registered and then been carted off to a sugarcane plantation. That day, Ninhoo, the son of Dhoojo, lost his last name and his identity. He became an immigrant number.

And an indentured labourer. Everywhere he went he had to carry the tin ticket – either strapped on the arm or worn around the neck. In Mauritius, the life of a young, brawny teenager from Dumrawo changed forever.

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Images of early Indian indentured labourers in Port Louis' Apravasi Ghat Museum (Right) A symbolic footprint of the arrival of first indentured labourers from India on November 2, 1834.

It was in a red-bound long ledger stacked in the Folk Museum of Indian Immigration at the Mahatma Gandhi Institute (MGI) that I first stumbled upon Ninhoo. Finding Ninhoo was not easy – there are 2,000 such ledgers in the MGI that has details of the Indian indentured labourers. The first batch of 36 Indian labourers (then called Hill Coolies) landed in Mauritius on November 2, 1834. In 1934, there was no Aapravasi Ghat (it was constructed in 1849); several buildings in Port Louis were used as depots for labourers. Between 1834 and 1910 when the indentured system was abolished

in Mauritius, 346,145 men and 105,896 women arrived from India, mainly from what are now Bihar, Bengal, Tamil Nadu, Gujarat and Maharashtra. Of the total 452,041 arrivals, only 167,570 returned to India after the completion of their 5-year contract. Those who stayed left an indelible Indianness on the island nation.

Like the home of Rani Jhurry. At Zilwa Resort where Jhurry works at the restaurant, she is dressed in immaculate white, her hair tied into a pony, her conversations seamless in French and Creole. When I stepped into her home, she looked/spoke different. She in a pink sari, her head covered, a bold streak of vermillion in her hair parting. By the door sat an idol of Lord Hanuman and in her hand a steel plate with

Why don’t expats understand that a head wag doesn’t necessarily mean that we Indians agree with an argument or a point?

Yes, American visitors often ask me what the unique Indian head wag means. “I don’t get it,” they will complain. I have to explain that Indians, like Japanese, dislike saying “no”. I explain the complex difference between true intention and the polite gloss, contained in the head wag. It may mean, “I am listening to you, but cannot, yet, tell you what I think.” So, I advise the visiting American not to draw conclusions, but rather to analyse the situation. And ask for clarity.

David Sloan, Senior Advisor, The Scowcroft Group & President, Corporate Strategies International LLC

Historical GDP figures from the work of historian and economist Angus Maddison.

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Mauritius and actively participated in the campaign to restore the lost glory of Aapravasi Ghat, a campaign that was spearheaded by Beekramsing Ramlallah, her uncle, a newspaper editor.

Mauritian cuisine is heavily influenced by Bihari cuisine – for example, the dholl puri and tekhua seen here

A holy book brought along by the indentured labourers, now on display in Mahatma Gandhi Institute

a red hibiscus and a flickering lamp. “Hamre ghar koi aata hai to hum wise hi swagat karate hain (we welcome our guests like this),” Jhurry said in lilting Bhojpuri, a language still spoken in Bihar. A mother of three, Jhurry has never been to Bihar, but she traces her roots to a village from where her great grandfather came to Mauritius to work.

In Jhurry’s home, Bihar stays indoors. The kitchen is laden with the whiff of dal-puri (also spelt as dholl-puri), a common festive dish in Bihar and now Mauritius’ favourite street food. In the island, dal-puri has stepped beyond all religious/cultural boundaries. Everyone eats the dal-puri.

Jhurry’s daughter graciously served puri with the oh-so-Bihari kuchha (a grated raw mango pickle) and her father belted a Bhojpuri song, his accent mish-mashed with French, English and Creole influences. Jhurry’s home is not the only one with heavy hints of Indianness. By Ganga Talao (Grand Bassin) stands the 108-foot-tall statue of Lord Shiva. Not too far away is world’s tallest statue of Goddess Durga. On the occasion of Mahashivaratri, the pious and the devout throng to the Talao.

There is a Bihar Roots Foundation, a Bhojpuri Samaj, and Bhojpuri Institute.

No one has studied that Indianness more than Sarita Boodhoo, activist, scholar, writer and wife of former Deputy Prime Minister of Mauritius, Harish Boodhoo. Sarita has written several books on Indian/Bhojpuri traditions in

If you really want to see where Indianness in Mauritius started, you must see Phoolyar village, the first settlement of Indian labourers, Sarita insisted, interspersing her facts with a drone of the Bhojpuri folk songs that she knows by rote. She points to the Anjali Devi street, named after an Indian immigrant who was shot dead by the police after an immigrants’ protest meeting for better living conditions turned violent. She narrates the arrival of Mahatma Gandhi in Mauritius in 1901 and his visit to Indian settlements in St Pierre and Riverie du Rempart, a visit that compelled Gandhi to send Dr Manilal, a French-knowing barrister, to empower the Indian immigrants in Mauritius.

Not many know of Phoolyar village now. The village, however, has not vanished; it has moved a few kilometers away where there are better civic amenities. The relocated Phoolyar looks like any ordinary village with no semblance to the original Phoolyar – a whitewashed slab on which Phoolyar Village written in blue is the sole reminder of its ancestry.

On November 2, 1834, when the first batch of Indians arrived as indentured labourers, not many would have predicted the Indianness that still lives in Mauritius 184 years later.

Who discovered Mauritius?

Mauritius was discovered by the Arabs. In the early 16th century, the Portuguese were the first Europeans to visit the island which was successively colonised by the Dutch, the French and the British. The country gained independence in 1968.

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Look Who’s In Town Mumbai

Full of Character

Ralph and Sonia Hays moved to Mumbai in 2017. Ralph talks about first impressions, travel plans and the secret to finding your feet In a new country I first came to India in 2016 as part of a diplomatic mission, but arrived with the family to set up camp here in August 2017. Before moving to Mumbai, we met many Indian expats in various countries. In addition, Sonia, during her career as a buyer, had plenty of contact with a few textile suppliers; and she maintained contact with them over the years. When our friends and contacts found out that we were coming to India, they were delighted and provided us with tips and advice.

Although we do not find any direct comparisons to the countries we are originally from (New Zealand and Spain), we feel that India is similar in some ways to Brazil – a large developing country, with a broad mix of races and religions, where people are always keen to celebrate.

Then and Now As this was the sixth country we were moving to, we had learnt to not arrive with any preconceptions or expectations.

It is always better to reserve judgement about a place until you experience things first-hand. Although we came here with an open mind, we did find it somewhat daunting with three children in tow. The secret for us is to look for the positive and make the most of it. Having lived in Sao Paulo for four years, the move from one big city to another made the transition easier.

India on a Platter We have certainly developed a taste for spices by now – some of our favourite foods are pani puri, samosas, aloo tikki, and dal makhani. We are also fans of naan and pappadam with chutney. For dessert, we like kulfi.

Festive Fervour We joined the Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations; we were lucky to receive an invitation to the immersion ceremony at Chowpatty Beach. It was an amazing experience, and we were impressed by the large, mixed crowd that the festival brings together. Sonia also participated in a Hindu puja called karva chauth, where women fast and pray for their husband. She was part of the ritual of singing while performing the pheris, which is passing their thalis or plates around in a circle. The event was very different from anything we have done before.

Sightseeing We visited Goa, where we stayed at a nice resort by the beach. We did a day tour of Old Goa and the churches, visited a Hindu temple and Fort Aguada. We also visited an old colonial Portuguese mansion. We enjoyed the local cuisine and learnt about the history of the region.

Loveable India The contrasting colours and the people of India, which is what we believe it make it so special.

I Am Taking Home...

Perhaps a greater appreciation for life and for the blessings we have.

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Look Who’s In Town Mumbai

One of the eight forms of Goddess Lakshmi (the wife of Lord Vishnu), known as the Ashta Lakshmi, Dhanya Lakshmi is so called because dhanya means ‘food grains’. She is regarded as the giver of agricultural wealth – especially food – all year round. She is shown here as having four hands, two of which hold lotuses and the others gold sprigs of paddy.

Painting by Sri S. Rajam. Picture courtesy ‘Art Heritage of India: A Collector’s Special’, published by L&T-ECC & ECC Recreation Club.

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Value Vignettes

by Susan Philip

Forgiveness, thy name is Woman Among the qualities of an ideal woman that the Bhagavad Gita sets out is Kshama – forgiveness. Forgiveness is one of the prerequisites for inclusivity. As corporate spaces and teams consciously work towards diversity and inclusion, it is good to remember that women are innately better able than men to let go of resentments and encourage cohesiveness.

Forgiveness is not just a means of cleansing our minds and souls of negative emotions – it is also a powerful tool that builds bridges and brings hearts closer

The ancient Tamil epic Silappatikaram tells the story of Kannagi. At a crucial point in her life, this young woman was able to forgive; but at another, she was unable to do so. The first instance opened up the possibility of a new beginning, while the latter had disastrous results.

Kannagi was happily married to a wealthy merchant named Kovalan until he succumbed to the charms of a dancer named Madhavi, who drained him of all his riches.

A penniless Kovalan came to his senses and begged Kannagi for forgiveness. She found the strength to let go of her anger against her husband and take him back. The couple decided to go to Madurai, the capital of the magnificent Pandya Empire, and start life anew.

Kannagi gave one of her few remaining possessions, a heavy gold anklet, to her husband to raise money as capital.

But when Kovalan tried to sell it, he was arrested on charges of being a thief because a similar anklet belonging to the Pandya Queen had been stolen. He was taken before the King, who had him executed without a trial.

Distraught and enraged, Kannagi stormed into the King’s court. She proved Kovalan’s innocence by breaking open the anklet seized from him to show that it contained rubies, instead of the pearls that filled the Queen’s anklets.

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(Top) A statue of Kannagi (Left) A scene depicting Kannagi’s curse against the Pandya King, which razed the capital to the ground.

Horrified at the miscarriage of justice he had caused, the King committed suicide. But even that did not move Kannagi to forgive the crime against Kovalan. Her curse started a fire that razed almost the whole of the Pandya capital.

At the core

Editor’s Note If you have women on a team, they will be able to bring groups together, to work cohesively towards a goal. Women have the innate ability to see good in people, even if they are being difficult and disruptive, and bring out the best in them.

They are able to let wrongdoers who are genuinely repentant off the hook, and bring them back into the fold, paving the way for a better and more productive work atmosphere.

Forgiveness is not easy. But it is empowering, positive and healing. Anger and resentment are the antitheses of forgiveness; and both are negative, destructive emotions, as evident from Kannagi’s story. Forgiveness builds bridges, and allows life to continue. It acknowledges that mistakes can be learning experiences. It offers a chance to let the past go and start afresh. On the other hand, the inability to forgive aggravates conflict.

Forgiving is something that has to be cultivated.

Circumstances in general give women more practice in forgiveness. A woman quickly learns that forgiving makes her life that much smoother, be it in her home or in the workplace – factory floor, hospital ward, classroom, board room or C-Suite. A woman who has the ability to forgive can spread that trait in her sphere of influence, and will be an asset wherever she is.

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(Top) Jo Berry with Magee (Left) Jo with Sir Anthony Berry

Echoes around the world Sir Anthony Berry was a British MP who was killed in a bomb blast at the height of the IRA problem. Patrick Magee, who planted the bomb, was arrested. Sir Anthony’s daughter, Jo, decided to meet Magee to achieve some sort of closure.

After talking for hours, both Jo and Magee were profoundly changed. Jo was able to forgive him for taking her father’s life, realising that if she were in his position, she couldn’t say that she wouldn’t have resorted to violence. On his part, Magee understood how innocent people had fallen victim to his actions. The two of them now hold talks promoting peace in conflict zones all over the world.

An American Indian story talks of two siblings, Yuma and Ahanu, who were constantly fighting, much to the distress of their father, the Chief of the tribe. One day, Yuma said something so hurtful to Ahanu that she ran away into the forest. A repentant Yuma combed the forest for days, until he fell off a cliff. His cries of pain led Ahanu to him. She brought him wild strawberries to eat, and water from a stream in her cupped palms. She supported him while they trekked back home. “Forgive me,” said Yuma. “I forgave you that evening itself,” replied Ahanu. The two lived in harmony.

Since then, the people of that tribe consider strawberries a symbol of forgiveness.

Well said!

God Most High has said: When my worshipper’s thoughts turn to Me, there am I with him. … and if he come to Me walking, I come to him running.

And if he meet Me with sins equivalent to the whole world, I will greet him with forgiveness equal to it.

From: The Mishkat al-Masabih, a 14th century collection of the sayings and actions of the Prophet Muhammad. This is part of an excerpt published in Eknath Easwaran’s spiritual anthologies, God Makes the Rivers to Flow and Timeless Wisdom.

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Festivals of India

by Team Culturama

When the Goddesses Hold Court The festival of Navaratri, which is centered on the feminine aspect of the universe, is celebrated in different, unique ways across the subcontinent The Navratri festival honours three female manifestations in the Hindu pantheon – Durga, the Goddess of primal energy, Lakshmi, the Goddess of wealth, and Saraswati, the Goddess of knowledge. ‘Nava’ means ‘nine’ and ‘ratri’ means ‘night’ – so the festival is spread over ‘nine nights’ (or days).

This year, Navaratri falls between October 10 and 18.

An interesting aspect of this festival is that it is dedicated to showcasing and celebrating the feminine aspect of the universe. The first three days are said to be dedicated to Goddess Durga, the next three to Goddess Lakshmi and the last three days to Goddess Saraswati.

Celebrations vary from state to state. In Tamil Nadu, Navaratri is marked by Kolu – a display of dolls ranging

from that of deities to scenes from village life. The Mysore Dussera, celebrated in Karnataka, is a grand 10-day affair.

In the eastern regions, particularly in West Bengal, Durga Puja is a key part of the celebrations. Colourful idols of the goddess slaying the demon Mahishasura add to the gaiety of the occasion. Aarti, a form of homage, is performed to the beat of the dhak (a drum) while some followers perform a dance called dhunuchi naach. In Gujarat, the garba raas and dandiya raas (communal dances) play a huge role in the celebrations.

Dussera, which is celebrated after the nine days of Navaratri, is especially popular in the North. It marks the triumph of Lord Rama (an avatar of Lord Vishnu, the Creator of the universe) over the ten-headed demon ruler, Ravana, who had abducted Sita, Rama’s wife. Parades known as Ram Lila are held, wherein passages from the epic Ramayana (which details the life of Lord Rama) are enacted. A muchawaited part of the celebrations is the burning of giant effigies of Ravana, which involves a massive exhibition of pyrotechnics.

The day after Navaratri, called Vijaya Dashami, is a time when people begin new ventures or begin their first class in art forms such as music and dance.

Ben Kin Richard

ngsley (left) on the sets of Gandhi with director d Attenborough

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Myth & Mythology

by Devdutt Pattanaik

Is there such a thing as

Hindu Halloween?

Much like Halloween, on which day people drive away ghosts that visit the earth, there are several Hindu festivals and traditions that are centred on the need to control or placate the spirits of the dead

Halloween is a popular festival in America where people dress up as ghosts on the night of October 31 to drive away the ghosts that visit the earth. It is traced to an old Celtic festival that saw this day, at the cusp between autumn and winter, as the day when the land of the dead comes closest to the land of the living. It is closely related to All Souls’ Day when Christians pray for the souls of the dead who are in purgatory, waiting for the Second Coming of Christ and Judgement Day. All cultures have days when the dead are worshipped. And this is closely linked to ghosts, as ghosts are seen as the restless dead, those who refuse to go to the land of the dead and continue to fester in the land of the living, troubling those alive, seeking to gain control of their body and their mind through terror. In Hinduism, there is no exact equivalent of Halloween, but there are many rituals performed that recognises the proximity of ghosts and seeks to keep them away.

Every year, a fortnight known as Pitr Paksha, between the worship of Ganesha (Ganesha Chaturdashi) and the worship of Durga (Navaratri) is reserved for ancestors (pitrs) of Hindus. This is when sarva-pitri-shraadh is done, to appease all the dead, who hang upside down, like bats, in Yama-loka

Photo: Diana Grieger, Germany

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turn them into powerful slaves. In Odisha, where in medieval times, Tantra was widely practiced, there is a Vetal Deul in the capital city of Bhubaneshwar, associated with ghosts and exorcism.

Lemon and chillies and rock salt are strung together and hung on doorways to feed ghosts and keep them away.

awaiting rebirth. During the ceremonies, the living promise the dead that they will produce children to ensure their rebirth. However, the offering does not satisfy some pitrs and they turn into pretas, or ghosts.

There are different kinds of ghosts: bhoot, preta, pisacha and vetals. Those who lived incomplete lives do not want to go to the land of the dead and so stay back in the land of the living. Those who lived complete lives, but their funeral rites were not properly performed, stay trapped in the land of the living. Some are cursed for misdeeds never to find peace in death, and so in misery haunt the living. These are the ideas about ghosts that one gathers from various folklores and from the Garuda Purana, an elaborate treatise on death rituals.

In the Rig Veda, especially in the Atharva Veda, there are many hymns addressed to gods such as Indra, Agni and Soma, who are invoked to destroy fearful demons who emerge out of darkness. This indicates an awareness of malevolent spirits, and ghosts.

The Bhagavat Puran informs us that Brahma, in a state of laziness, created bhuta-pisachas or ghosts. They were naked and their hair was unbound. Seeing them he shut his eyes (in fear?).

Many gods and goddesses are linked to ghosts. They are invoked to drive the ghosts away. The most popular of these is the gaunt Chamunda, who lives in crematoriums, is garlanded with heads and limbs of men, and travels on the back of ghosts (preta). She is closely related to the wild Kotravai of the crematorium found in ancient Tamil lore. They are also invoked by sorcerers who wished to control the pretas and

In Kerala, there are tales of yakshis who seduce young men and gandharvas who seduce young women and either kill them or drive them mad. Those afflicted visit the temple of the goddess Chottanikkara Bhagavathy to be free of the ghosts. In this temple, ghosts are exorcised and driven away to the land of the dead. Similar rituals are performed in the Balaji Hanuman temple at Mehndipur, Rajasthan, where there is also a shrine dedicated to pret-raj, king of ghosts, a form of Yama (God of death). Other deities invoked to get rid of ghosts are Kal Bhairav Kotwal of Varanasi.

The modern practice of hanging slippers on the gateway is to frighten ghosts away. Lemon and chillies and rock salt as used to feed them and keep them away, while coal and iron is used to frighten them away, in many folk rituals.

Basically, ghosts are seen as embodiments of malevolent and negative energies – the jealousy and hatred of others (living or dead) that can make us vulnerable to ailments and bad luck.

Belief in ghosts acknowledges that we are surrounded by many forces, positive and negative, all unseen. These unseen forces were called spirits and ghosts, and originally spirituality meant faith in these unseen forces. Over time, spirituality has come to mean faith in god or soul or energy, but it is just a sanitised version of belief in unseen forces, especially the force whose entry creates life and whose exit results in death, a force whose understanding still eludes scientists.

Published on 3rd November, 2017, on www.dailyo. in. Reprinted with permission from www. devdutt.com

Many goddesses are linked to ghosts, and are often invoked to drive negative entities away.

Photo: Jean-Denis LENOIR, France

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Holistic Living

by Eknath Easwaran

The Last Leg

Photo: Kathlijn FRUITHOF, Belgium

As we approach the final quarter of our lives, it is better to let go of the desire to relive the past and focus on what we want to make of ourselves, one day at a time

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Older people often tell me that in these years they feel the need to get rid of the possessions they have accumulated: furniture, photographs, papers, letters. “We don’t want to leave this for our children to deal with,” they say. I want to tell them, “Don’t spend your time on things like that now!”

If you have the detachment just to call Goodwill and deal with it in a single stroke, well and good. But rather than go through each letter, each photograph, each memory, it’s much better to leave everything in the garage for those who come after you. I can assure you that they will attend to it with much more detachment, and letting it go now will be far less painful than having it torn away at the time of death.

At this stage of life, more than ever, why stir up the past?

Work on what you want to take with you: don’t work on your past; work on who you are and what you want to become.

Reducing Body Consciousness There are a million and one ways in which we can reduce our identification with the body – a little every day.

My books are full of practical suggestions. In this stage of life, however, the most important strategy is to fill our consciousness with God – or, for those who find that wording problematic, to fill our minds with the loftiest thoughts we can conceive.

The dynamics of this solution are simple: With repetition, the lofty, inspiring thoughts and images that we choose displace the negative ones that have accumulated through habit or conditioning. First and foremost, therefore, comes the regular, systematic, enthusiastic practice of meditation. Filling the mind with the inspiring words of the world’s great scriptures, saints, and mystics is the very essence of my method of meditation.

For those who are already in the last quarter of their lives, taking up meditation can be daunting. That is why I urge everyone to begin as soon as possible. But even if your body is failing, it is very helpful to set aside a special place for meditation and commit yourself to half an hour every morning, as early as possible, trying your very best to go slowly through the words of a passage from God Makes the Rivers to Flow that appeals to you deeply.

Choose a passage that embodies the highest ideals you would like to embody in your life. Try to memorise

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the passage beforehand, but don’t let the difficulty of memorisation keep you from giving your best at the same time every day. What matters most is full effort. Do your best to bring your period of meditation to the full half-hour every morning.

You will be amazed to discover that this can be done, and when the task has seemed impossible, the achievement brings a thrill of mastery that will repay your efforts a million-fold.

That is the taste of freedom: you will know then that rising above identification with your failing body is within your reach, so long as you go on striving.

Here I can offer my own example. After years of the unremitting pain that followed my eightieth birthday, my memory – which had been excellent even in childhood – began to fail me. It would have been easy and natural for me to take for granted that I could not train it again. Instead I reminded myself that I was memorising these passages as an offering to God. That brought great motivation. I began to carry verses with me wherever I went, even in the glove compartment of our car, so that whenever I had a few moments I could take them out and try to commit them to memory verse by verse. At first it was terribly frustrating, even painful, but eventually I found that I had managed to fill my consciousness again with many, many beautiful passages I thought I had lost.

In this connection, we can all draw inspiration from a great song in the Indian tradition where Sri Krishna tells us, “Sometimes I like to play my music on a broken reed.”

Join Us Every Saturday Global Adjustments Office, Chennai, facilitates a free weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight–Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments. com. If you are in other cities, visit www.bmcm.org for e-satsangs.

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