Culturama July 2014 by Rohini Manian

culturama your cultural gateway to india

July 2014 Volume 5, Issue 5

Heal the World...

Dr. P.C. Reddy of the Apollo Hospitals Group talks to Culturama about compassion in healthcare

True and Tested A look at the indigenous healing traditions of India

Special issue on holistic healing

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Ranjini Manian with Dr. P.C. Reddy of Apollo Hospitals Group.

Dear Readers, A couple of months back I entered Apollo Hospital with Muriel, who visits India each year to attend music concerts. She had undergone spine surgery in Paris but was still in pain, so I suggested a second opinion. When we walked in to the Apollo Hospital in Chennai, there was a red carpet laid out and we saw Dr. P.C. Reddy,

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Chairman and Founder of Apollo Hospitals Group, along with Preetha Reddy, Managing Director, hundreds of smiling faces of doctors, nurses and administrative staff! We felt most welcomed and beamed with pleasure. Then we realised that they were really standing there to welcome someone right behind us – none other than the Honourable A.P.J. Abdul Kalam, our beloved former President of India, who was there to address the teams. Dr. Kalam’s speech was transmitted on all the TV monitors of the doctors’ chambers. His words rang true with all the staff: “A Hospital has to be angelic by look and give the confidence to a patient, ‘I will be cured’.” Also, the six qualities he suggested to care givers – generosity, pure ethics, tolerance, perseverance, pure concentration and intelligence – are embodied by the person whose image we chose for our cover, Dr. P.C. Reddy. He has truly woven good health across the nation by bringing the world to India. The most recent recipient of his team’s care is Muriel, who was assured by a charming Indian surgeon that she would be able to dance again. No wonder she loves India even more! Good health is what Culturama honours in this special issue, which has been planned around the topic of holistic health and healing. Read about the different indigenous systems of treating disorders – from ayurveda to unani – in our Feature. Prepare a dish that balances the different rasas or flavours – flip over to In Your Kitchen for the recipe. A look at our Picture Story gives you the low-down on streetside remedies. Healt h is t he crown on a well man’s head t hat only an ill man can see. Stay healthy, stay happy. 1 Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief globalindian@globaladjustments.com

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Credits

Letters to the Editor Dear Editor, Cover picture of Dr. P.C. Reddy: Courtesy Apollo Hospitals Group

“It’s a pleasure to have a read-through of Culturama as it always gives me a quotable snippet or two.” – Stephen O’Farrel, Ireland

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian

Dear Editor,

Associate Editor Yamini Vasudevan

“The Give to India piece on Mumbai Mobile Creches in the June 2014 issue was a very interesting and inspiring one. It is amazing as to how initiatives like these can help families go a long way in achieving economic and social success. I hope more such initiatives are started in India.”

Business Head Sheeba Radhamohan Sub Editor Shefali Ganesh Senior Designer Prem Kumar Finance Controller V Ramkumar Circulation S Raghu Advertising Bengaluru Meera Roy Chennai Amritha Suresh Delhi/NCR Neha Verma Mumbai/Pune Deepa Navani To subscribe to this magazine, write to circulation@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.culturama.in Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 Email culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 17/16, Ali Asker Road, Off. Cunningham Road, Bengaluru – 560 052 Mobile +91 99869 60316 Email culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR 1414, DLF Galleria Tower, DLF Phase IV, Gurgaon, Haryana – 122009 Mobile +91 98712 89488 Email del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai Rustom Court, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai – 400030 Tel +91-22-66104191/92 Email mum@globaladjustments.com Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028, and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

– Radha Sampath, India

Dear Editor,

“Culturama has gone a long way and has become a very good magazine. The covers are attractive and make one pick it up immediately! The contents don’t disappoint either.” – Capt. K.S. Gopinath, India

Dear Editor,

“I am a recent reader of Culturama. I love the ‘Look Who’s in Town’ columns – they always have interesting information on different aspects. Also, the perspectives from people living in different cities are very useful for newcomers to this country.” – James Keavney, USA

Look out for icons On our website and in our magazine we are now using the five icons below to help guide you through the contents. They are based on the five areas where Culturama can really help — giving you an insight into India, its life and culture; finding you great places to shop and fun things to do to enrich your Indian experience; helping you find a home; and connecting you to new friends.

1 Read 4 Locate

2 Shop 5 Connect

3 Do

Errata: In our June 2014 issue, in the Realty Bytes (Page 72), we had missed out the photo credit due to Jean Francois Vial from France. In the Feature (page 36), the photo should have been credited to Dany, instead of the given credit. We regret the errors and apologise for the same.

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Culturama’s contributors 03 Anita Krishnaswamy is President of Global Adjustments and a relocation expert. She has several years of experience working with expat clients across the country. 04 Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. Visit www.devdutt.com

01 Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffee table books. 02 Pratibha Jain is a Chennaibased writer and translator, and is co-author of the award-winning cookbooks Cooking at Home with Pedatha and Sukham Ayu. Visit her website at www.pratibhajain.org 01

05 Keval Singh is a broadcast journalist in Singapore. You can read more about his works at http://kevuthemusafir.blogspot. com or find him on Instagram (@kevusingh). 06 Resham Gellatly and Zach Marks are journalists whose work has appeared in The New York Times and Time Out Magazine among others. Zach is a journalist and contributor to The New York Times. 05

Advisory Board members 07 N. Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editorin-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu. 08 Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

09 Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan. Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture. 10 Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for four years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www.mezzemoments.blogspot.com

11 G. Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com 12 Beth Chapman is an American business management consultant living in Bengaluru. Former President of the city’s Overseas Women’s Club, Beth is an Indian culture aficionado.

13 Marcel Van Mourik is a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years. Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture. 14 Kathelijne van Eldik, from Holland, has been in Mumbai since 2004. Her employment with an airline is not a surprise, considering she has been raised in different countries and has it in her DNA to travel.

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Contents 40

Look Who’s In Town

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in this country.

In Focus

Chairman of British Biologicals, V.S. Reddy talks about the niche sector of nutraceuticals and India’s role in the pharma industry.

28 Feature A look at the healing traditions of India.

India’s Culture 10

Short Message Service

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture.

In your Kitchen

Achieve a holistic balance of all tastes or rasas with one dish.

Festival of the Month

Read about the significance of Guru Purnima and Ramzan.

Myth & Mythology

Stories from India’s mythology, reinterpreted for practical living.

Journeys Into India

See what’s going on in the main metros and suburbs.

Seeing India

Take a walk down history lane in Amritsar, or explore the silk route along the Cauvery river.

Holistic Living

Juggling with likes and dislikes becomes easy when you break the bounds of desire.

Picture Story

Get a prosthetic jaw or fix a broken bone – streetside.

Calendar of Events Daily Cuppa

Explore India’s chai culture through the eyes of its myriad chaiwallahs.

Give to India

Featuring worthy causes across the country.

Regulars

Relocations and Property

Thought Leaders

P.C. Reddy, Founder and Chairman of the Apollo Hospitals Group talks about the human touch in the world of modern healthcare.

India Now

A recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month.

India Writes

A special pick of books on the topic of holistic health.

Ten for the Road

Trivia about an Indian state – featuring Chattisgarh this month.

Cultural Lens

Learn to adapt by understanding and respecting differences.

Realty Bytes

Practical advice from Global Adjustments’ relocation expert.

Space and the City

Property listings across the metros.

You will find this icon – which depicts the ideal state of holistic health – across the magazine. The icon accompanies articles specially chosen for this theme, as well as quotes from expatriates on their experience of healing in different forms in, and from, India.

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by Suzanne McNeill Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Art, Textile and Craft Mojari Rajasthan

Mojari are the distinctive decorated men’s shoes from Rajasthan that have an extended, and sometimes curled, toe. The shoes are made by hand using vegetable-dyed leather for the soles, and leather or textiles for the uppers. They are often flat-soled, and have no right–left distinction. Mojari were introduced to India by the Mughals and worn by royalty. They were highly ornamented with gold zari thread or wire, pearls and even precious stones. Nowadays mojari are embellished with applique, beads and embroidery, and worn for special occasions, particularly with ethnic clothes and the wedding sherwani – the long embroidered coat worn by men.

Food and Drink

Words

This crispy deep-fried, spice-filled snack is famously sweet and tangy. Bakarwadi is a Maharashtrian speciality, and a visit to Chitale Bandhu, a famous sweet shop in Pune, is a must for all lovers of Indian sweets. Bakarwadi is made from a stiff dough of flour and oil, which is rolled out and trimmed. Fennel, pepper, cumin, sesame, coriander and poppy seeds are ground to a coarse masala along with chilli, sugar and fresh coconut. The mixture is spread over the dough, which is then rolled (like a Swiss roll), sealed and cut into even rounds to be fried in hot oil. 3 Watch Vah Chef’s tutorial for perfect bakarwadi at http://tinyurl.com/bakarwadi – and make some today!

A Tamil dictionary will tell you that sambar is a nutritious lentil-based vegetable and tamarind stew or gravy that is eaten alongside dosa (pancakes), idli (steamed rice cakes) or rice. The name derives from the Tamil word champaaram, which refers generally to ground spices. It can be said that a South Indian meal is incomplete without a tangy sambar. A Hindi dictionary, however, gives sambar as the name of a large species of deer found in wooded areas across India, and the favourite prey of the tiger. You are likely to see (and hear!) sambar deer at any of India’s national parks.

Bakarwadi (Pune)

Sambar vs Sambar

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is Daniele, Fran

Photo: Franco

Interpretations

Urban Adventure

This type of sandal – a sole with a post and a stub to provide grip between the toes – is called a paduka. Paduka might be made in the shape of actual feet, with carved toes, or of fish, and are made of wood, ivory and even silver. They are sometimes elaborately decorated with high platforms and form part of a bride’s trousseau. They can also be given as religious offerings or themselves be the object of veneration – as appears to be the case here, where a tilak of sacred white ash has been daubed on each sole. The representation of footsteps is a manifestation of the presence of Buddha, and plain wooden sandals are associated with the frugal lifestyle of a Buddhist monk.

Pondy Bazaar has made the news in recent months as the street vendors who filled the pavements of Chennai’s busiest shopping district have been relocated within a new complex in the neighbourhood. Still packed at the best of times, however, Pondy Bazaar’s mix of big-name jewellery and sari shops and smaller independent shops selling everything from textiles to household goods to shoes to bangles continues to attract hordes of shoppers every weekend and during the festival season, including many visitors from Sri Lanka. The district is said to account for 70 percent of the gold sold in Chennai.

Paduka

Pondy Bazaar in Chennai

He/She Lives On

Writer and Poet Rabindranath Tagore Born in Calcutta in 1861 to a prominent Bengali family of philosophers, composers and writers, Rabindranath Tagore was a polymath whose prolific output of poetry, short stories, songs, novels and plays reshaped Bengali literature and music. Tagore wrote poetry from his earliest years and, in 1890, completed Manasi, which contains some of his best-known works. He was the first non-European to win the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1913 for Gitanjali: Song Offerings. Tagore campaigned against the caste system, and the poverty of Calcutta became a keynote of his later writing. He was passionately anti-Imperialist, and became an eloquent spokesman for Independence, travelling widely to lecture and read from his work. Rabindranath Tagore died in 1941 at the age of 80. He is generally regarded as the outstanding creative artist of modern India, and his poems and songs remain extremely popular amongst all classes of Bengali society. 3 See Chokher Bali – one of Rabindranath Tagore’s famous novels, which was made into a movie in 2003 by well-known director Rituparno Ghosh, and stars Bollywood actor Aishwarya Rai in one of the leading roles.

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Thought Leader by Ranjini Manian

Heal the

World…

Sitting in Dr. Prathap Chandra Reddy’s ante room is like sitting in your own family home. Offers of coconut water or coffee come my way with polite regularity. I glance at the wall, which holds a tip of the iceberg of the Reddy-Apollo reach on the planet – moments captured with the Dalai Lama, Mother Teresa, Bill Clinton, George Bush and Barack Obama tower over you quietly. I watch as the country’s top gastro surgeon, best back and neck doctor, along with extended members of the founding family totally dedicated to the goal of ‘touching lives’ walk in and out of the room. Dr. Reddy’s efficient assistant of three decades welcomes me with the combination of a familiar smile and clinical professionalism – surely the mantra that has helped put India's pioneering corporate healthcare chain on the world map. Dr. P.C. Reddy, a cardiologist, began the Apollo Hospitals Group at the age of 50. What began as the country’s first private-sector group of hospitals is today a mammoth institution that boasts of 54 hospitals, which provide healthcare comparable to the best standards in the West at a fraction of the cost. Among the many honours and awards bestowed on him are the ‘Padma Vibhushan’, the second highest civilian award granted by the Government of India in acknowledgement of his contributions to healthcare. However, it is not mere felicitations on stages that stand

1 Dr. P.C. Reddy, founder and Chairman of the Apollo Hospitals Group, speaks about what it takes to build a worldclass organisation, yet remain grounded in humanitarian values Dr. P.C. Reddy with the painting of vishwaroopa darshanam as the backdrop. Photo: Apollo Hospitals Group

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testimony to the mark Dr. Reddy has made – it is word-ofmouth praise for Apollo that has made many turn their attention to India. With an artist’s impression of vishwaroopa darshanam (seeing the whole world as divine) as an apt backdrop to his desk, Dr P.C. Reddy shares his insights in a special interview with Culturama. The Apollo Hospitals Group is regarded as one of the best in the world – what makes it so? A Gallup Poll just gave us the news that Apollo Hospital has been selected as the best place to work in, among world hospitals. We are one of the 30 selected to receive that award. It’s our people who make it what it is. There are great cardiologists, surgeons, physicians and assisting staff – and when they come together as a team, they make a great difference. When I started out, I used to ask, ‘Why should people go abroad? Why can’t they get treated here?’ Then, ‘How much should we charge for heart surgery?’ The answer: ‘$3,000’. Today, after 31 years, our cost for heart surgery is $2,000. Our success rate has improved from 90 percent to 99.99 percent. So, this is done by them [the team]. But we have strict processes and procedures in place to ensure that no one can take shortcuts or miss something – because it’s a life at the end of it.

1 “Do you know what the value of the human body is? Six trillion dollars. If the dog sneezes, we take it to the vet; if the car misfires, we take it to a workshop – but we don’t look after ourselves.” So, world class comes with processes, protocol and the tender loving care you give? Yes, care, commitment and compassion – it is very necessary. When you do any work saying, ‘Yes, I am doing work; I am paid for it,’ it won’t be the same. It is very important that people truly participate by viewing themselves as part of a corporate family. At Apollo, it is the family spirit that has made a big impact. You continue to go on rounds, as does your daughter and Managing Director of Apollo, Preetha Reddy. How do you sustain the personal touch? I don’t know about other businesses, but in healthcare, it is not just the best medicine or best equipment, it is the collective compassion that brings greater power to the skills we have. We are the first in every technology the world has, that India has – the first ECT, first MRI, first Novalis [Tx radiosurgery and radiotherapy for cancer treatment]. We will continue to upgrade our technology to the best possible levels, and we would want to get the best possible skills – but it is

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1 “When we first started, I asked, ‘How much should we charge for heart surgery?’ The answer: ‘$3,000’. Today, after 31 years, our cost for heart surgery: $2,000. Our success rate: up from 90 percent to 99.99 percent.”

being on the ground and continuing to impart that personal touch that makes the difference. So, does it all come down to the mantra of thinking big? Yes, you are right – because the problem is big, you see. Whatever we start, we will continue to do that, but the problems are new. So, we thought to ourselves, ‘How do we sensitise people to the fact that the disease patterns now are different from what it was 30 years ago? And what must we do for it?’ What was previously a ‘3-P’ formula – private public participation – now has another ‘P’ added: private public people participation. Could you elaborate on this? Nobody knows, for instance, how expensive the human structure is. Do you know what your value is? Six trillion dollars. If the dog sneezes, we take it to the vet; if the car misfires, we take it to a workshop – but we don’t look after ourselves. So, this is where the fourth ‘P’ of people taking responsibility is important. At Apollo, we are trying to connect the hospital to the clinic to the individual seamlessly. Every check-up at Apollo is a continuous process – they will remind you what needs to be done. Recently, in the Economic Times, Jack Welch said that it is ‛impossible and incredible' what India is doing – a CAT scan for $200, which costs $2,500 in the US! So, India is going to be the future. With a new government in place, there better be no paralysis. I think that it is a pity that the last five years were wasted in the country’s life-span. What we need is for the government to act as a facilitator – they shouldn’t be doers. If you look around, not just at Apollo, all our hospitals in India today are giving the same level of care as anywhere else in the world at a tenth or one-twentieth of the cost. Johns Hopkins charges $120,000 for a by-pass surgery; we charge $2,500. We have the capability, but we have become a little complacent.

Secondly, we are not addressing the larger issue of health. This is where I think we need the Government to stimulate the players to work together – and involve the individual, and remind him that he’s a six-trillion-dollar creation. You are the father of four girls, handing over the reins to them. Do women make for good leaders? Indian women make excellent leaders. First of all, I think the way our culture has been, the girl always has the superior capacity. I was looking at the paper, and all the school exam toppers were girls! That’s because they focus better. For a man, somehow, that focus is a bit lost. For example, I sent a team of men to another country to research on something, but they were distracted by other things – so I had to give them a deadline of 48 hours to give me a decision on the one thing I had sent them there for! Maybe I should have sent ladies – they would have focused on the task! We have to admire ladies for their compassion – all of us have compassion, but women fearlessly bring it out. Their smile, their way of saying things with love – in these things, a man is hesitant. So that is a great advantage to keep the family together, and in the work they [women] are doing. So, the way a girl is brought up, and the way she wants to position herself will determine how far she goes.

“I am here from Canada - my brother needed a hip replacement surgery. If I had waited in my own country, it would have taken a minimum period of one year to get to a doctor, because the waiting line is so big there. I am delighted with the service here in India - in moments, we got appointments; in days, we had this process done; in a couple of weeks, we were rejuvenated. Included in the package was a stay at a beach resort to get over the physiotherapy part of this treatment - we even had the opportunity to do tourism along with this, and see this fascinating land. So, India is going to be the answer for wellness to the Western world.” - Bayden Kraus, Canada

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What is one business area in which India needs to do better? What we need is a little focus on marketing – it’s good to be great, but how do you make others know you are great? For example, I was in Bombay [Mumbai] recently – there, some people said, ‘You know Dr. Reddy, we think of Apollo, but we stopped coming there.’ The fault is ours – we are not communicating with them about what further things they can get by coming to us. We may do things very well, but we also need to speak a little louder so that the world listens. What is your vision for the future? My dream is that India becomes a primary healthcare destination. We have the capacity, we have the skills, the people. Diseases are killing people; we had the largest number of 30-year-olds coming into our Emergency this year, and some never even made it. And this is growing. But we can do something about it and change it. Speaking of India… India is a great country with culture. We need to rediscover ourselves; whatever it was 10,000 years ago, we need to get there. A majority of young people today have that fire in them. We need the society and government to facilitate their progress. Memory of a famous person you have met… My meeting with Mother Teresa was one I can’t forget. On the day she was to give me an award [The Mother St. Teresa’s Citizen of the Year], she was running a temperature of 104 degrees. So, I asked, ‘Why should she come?

Someone else could give the award on her behalf.’ But the organisers couldn’t convince her, and she came. I offered, ‘I will take the award while you are sitting on your chair Mother.’ And she replied, ‘This is a duty that has been ordained. So I will come around.’ So she came on stage and gave me the award. I bowed, ‘Bless me Mother’. She replied, ‘I ask the Lord to bless both of us, because we should continue to give service to the people.’ I was so happy that she involved me along with her by saying ‘we’. There was another incident with Bill Clinton. The first satellite telemedicine in the world was by Apollo. We connected my village with all of Apollo Hospitals and I wanted Clinton to inaugurate it. He came. And he saw a young girl in my village being examined by a doctor; the consultant was in Hyderabad. After the examination, the consultant said, ‘Your daughter has a hole in her heart. During vacations, send her to us. We will fix it and she will rejoin the school when it opens.’ He added, ‘She will lead a normal life’. Tears flowed from Clinton’s eyes, and he said, ‘Doctor, this is a very, very wonderful thing you are doing. The rest of the world should follow your lead, so that people in remote places can get help.’ Six or seven years later, Clinton came to Lucknow. I showed him the photo of the girl, and asked him if he remembered the inauguration. ‘Yes, yes, Chelsea reminds me of it every day!’ he said, and asked, ‘Can I keep this?’ I replied, ‘Your Excellency, I brought this picture for you!’ 1

(Top left) Dr. Reddy receiving the The Mother St. Teresa’s Citizen of the Year award. (Top) Dr. Reddy with former US President Bill Clinton. PhotoS: Apollo Hospitals Group

1 Read the Healer: Dr Prathap Chandra Reddy and the Transformation of India by Pranay Gupte. In this book, Gupte tells the story of Dr Reddy’s success in changing the face of healthcare in India. Against the backdrop of India's evolution from a sluggish economy driven by socialist ideals, the Apollo Hospitals Group’s growth is an inspiration for businessmen and idealists alike.

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India now by Susan Philip

The month that was 1 A quick recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month

Politics and Polity

Business Matters

Woman of worth

The Pizzeria is prepared

There was only one school in the village where she grew up. And it was a boys’ school. But a little detail like that didn’t prevent Anandiben from getting not only a school education – right there in her native village, as the only girl in the school – but also an M.Sc and a B.Ed degree! In 1987, she won a gallantry award for saving two school students from drowning. Such is the can-do spirit of this septuagenarian who has been sworn in as Gujarat’s first woman Chief Minister. 1 India’s history is replete with women achievers. Check out Muthamma Chonira, Cornelia Sorabjee and Bula Choudhury for a start.

While Amazon, with a view to tapping all routes of delivery in India, is busy exploring the lower end of the scale – the kirana or mom-and-pop store route, a low-profile pizza chain in Mumbai has beaten it in the high-tech zone, by effecting a delivery by a GPS-enabled drone! Francesco Pizzerias delivered a half-kg, 13-inch pizza using its custom-built, remote-controlled drone. It isn’t legal to use drones to make commercial deliveries in India, and the pizza chain stayed on the right side of the law by insisting it wasn’t technically a sale but a test-run. The unammed drone landed on the rooftop of a high-rise building in central Mumbai. ‘Be Prepared’ is obviously the company’s motto!

Sports Spots Climb every mountain… Achievers can come from the most unlikely places. Malavath Poorna is not quite 14 years old, but she’s an example. She hails from a tiny village in the newly created State of Telengana in South India. The daughter of farm labourers who struggle to make a living, Poorna had never even seen a snow-capped mountain. Yet, she has reached great heights – literally! At 13 years and 11 months, she has become the youngest girl ever to scale the world’s highest peak – Mount Everest. As a student of a state-run residential school, she was one of those picked for grooming in adventure sports and trained at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute at Darjeeling. 1 While the Everest may be too lofty a goal for most of us, there are less challenging peaks to conquer throughout India. Check out http://www.indmount.org/ for information.

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Arty Happenings India’s own Bond

Photo: Paul Burger

Ruskin Bond has turned 80. That’s little more than a number for the prolific author, who marked the occasion by releasing two more books. And he plans on writing more! Bond, who was conferred the ‛Padma Bhushan’ – one of India’s highest civilian awards – has a huge fan following among people of all age groups. He writes for children, writes short stories, essays and novels, ghost stories and love stories as well. His first published novel was a semi-autobiography called The Room on the Roof. Born in 1934 to British parents in Kasauli, India, he has made Mussoorie (in Uttarakhand) his home, where he lives with an adopted family. 1 Did you know: The critically acclaimed 1978 Hindi movie Junoon is based on Bond’s novella, A Flight of Pigeons, revolving around the 1857 Rebellion (or Sepoy Mutiny).

This and That

Tailor-made!

Requiem for a car

The kurta in a new avatar

Hindustan Motors, makers of the Ambassador, India’s version of Britain’s Morris Oxford, has shut down its factory in West Bengal – where the car which once ruled the Indian roads was produced. Lack of demand was a reason cited. Time was when the Ambassador was one of the few cars available in the country. Designed to pack extended families into its roomy interiors, with enough space in the boot for vast piles of luggage, it was particularly suited to the Indian ethos. Not for the ‘Amby’ the low-slung sleek looks of the modern car. It was unashamedly ‘homely,’ but oh-so-comfortable for creaky knees and aging backs. So, is it the end of the road for the Ambassador? Maybe not – Hindustan Motors says it is exploring possibilities of a revival. White Ambassadors were once the wheels of India's officialdom. What car has India's new prime minister chosen as his official vehicle? A: The BMW 7 Series 760 Li Security Edition

Clothes probably make the man (and woman) to a greater extent in India than anywhere else. That’s because each ethnic group has its own distinctive style of dressing. Even the political class can be identified by the choice of clothes. Hitherto, it was by-and-large the white kurta-pajama or, in the south, crisp white dhotis and shirts, while the women went for hand-woven saris in block-print designs. But with the change of guard at the Centre, a new style of dressing is also emerging – pioneered by none other than Prime Minister Narendra Modi. In fact, his twist on the classic, long-sleeved white kurta or tunic shirt – a half-sleeved version in a variety of shades – has come to be known as the ‘Modi kurta’. By teaming it with top branded sunglasses and watches, Mr. Modi is probably consciously making more than a fashion statement. 3 Want to get the Modi look? Visit the e-commerce site http://www.modimania.com/

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India writes

iREAD

by Team Culturama

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When it comes to the topic of well-being, the world of books is replete with choices. From a balanced diet to cosmetology to positive thoughts every aspect has been examined and commented upon by experts in the different fields. For this month’s issue, we asked some of our readers for their pick on different aspects of health and healing – and collated a set that some of these varied aspects.

Skin Deep: An Inside Out Approach to Looking Good, Naturally! by Aparna Santhanam Aparna Santhanam, a popular dermatologist, cosmetologist, and hair and wellness expert, says that diet plays an important role not just in the way one looks but also in the way one ages. In this book, she tells readers how to identify their skin type and thereby decide on a diet plan, about pollutants that damage skin, and about why one’s diet should consist of different coloured food items. In addition, common concerns over whether certain foods (like wine or nuts) are good or harmful, the issue of ‘negative calories’ and so on are addressed. 1

Mukhwas: A Journey of Indian Food through the Ages by Alka Pande In India, food is defined by several elements – climate and geography, history and politics, religion and ritual, social customs and relationships. This book aims to unravel the tradition behind the food from different parts of India, while keeping in mind that it is one of the most unifying factors in this diverse country. Replete with anecdotes, quotes and recipes, this work puts forth the varied flavours or rasa that go into each dish, while also delving into the indigenous wisdom that dictated the structure and order of each meal. Written by Alka Pande, the Consultant Arts Advisor and Curator of the Visual Arts Gallery of the India Habitat Centre in New Delhi, this work is a wholesome read for anyone interested in gastronomical cultures. 1

Women and the Weight Loss Tamasha by Rujuta Diwekar Given Rujuta Diwekar’s successful experience of working with celebrities from all walks of life (from Bollywood actor Kareena Kapoor to businessman Anil Ambani), her advice on fitness and nutrition is much sought after. As the title suggests, this work is directed at ladies. In it, Diwekar discusses the different stages in the life of a woman, and how they impact her well-being. Akin to a primer for those who are looking to create and start on a weight loss/health plan, the book lays out four principal areas (sleep, relationships, nutrition, and exercise) and the ways in which they impact a woman’s health. 1

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Light on Pranayama: The Yogic Art of Breathing by B.K.S Iyengar B.K.S. Iyengar, recognised as one of the world’s leading teachers of yoga, puts forth the basics of the one of the most important elements of yoga practice in this book. Laid out as a programme that requires practice of 15–30 minutes daily, this book introduces the reader to the ‘dos’ and ‘don’ts’ of proper breathing techniques, as well as practical instructions to develop physical health and a sound mind. The text aims to demystify the techniques of pranyama, such that even those unfamiliar with yoga will be able to adopt them as part of their daily routine. 1

Learning to Silence the Mind by Osho Chandra Mohan Jain, who came to be known as ‘Osho’ from 1989, was an Indian mystic and spiritual teacher who gained a strong following among Indians and people from other nationalities. In his book, he writes that the mind is extraordinarily creative and has the power to deal with problems. However, instead of treating the mind like a helpful servant, humans allow it master their lives. Using the example of a virtual switch, Osho says that silencing the mind helps the mind to rest and rejuvenate. This state of quiet can be achieved by understanding, watchfulness and meditation – which, in turn, will help the individual face challenges in a calmer and more mindful manner. 1

The Emperor of All Maladies : A Biography of Cancer by Siddhartha Mukherjee In this work, Siddhartha Mukherjee, doctor, researcher and awardwinning science writer, examines cancer with a cellular biologist’s precision, a historian’s perspective, and a biographer’s passion. An eloquent chronicle of a disease humans have lived with, and died from, for over 5,000 years – notwithstanding the arrogant assumption that, three decades ago, it was thought to have been vanquished in an all-out ‘war against cancer’. From the Persian Queen Atossa, whose Greek slave cut off her malignant breast, to the 19th-century recipient of primitive radiation and chemotherapy and Mukherjee’s own leukemia patient, this book provides a fascinating glimpse into the future of cancer treatments and a brilliant new perspective on the way doctors, scientists, philosophers and lay people have observed and understood the human body. 1

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How the Land Lies: A Central Indian state, Chhattisgarh is landlocked. It is India’s tenth largest in terms of size, and sixteenth in terms of population. 2. Political Pressures: One of India’s ‘youngest’ States, it is only about 14 years old. Carved from the state of Madhya Pradesh, its creation fulfilled a long-standing demand of a section of the population for a separate identity. The capital is Raipur. 3. Past Glories: The debate about the origin of the name of this state offers a glimpse of its rich past. The word can be broken up into chhattis, which means 36, and garh or fort. The area is home to a string of forts, testimony to the military might of rulers of yore. Some take it to be a corruption of ‘Chedisgarh’, or the land of the Chedis, who once controlled the area. It could also be a reference to the Chhattisgarhin Devi temple, which has 36 pillars. 5. Ethnic Fingerprint: A state with a significant tribal population, Chhattisgarh has much to interest the anthropologist and the traveller. A visit to the Tribal Museum at Jagdalpur will give visitors a good overview of what life as a tribal involves in this part of the country. 6. Culture Quotient: The tribes here are among the oldest in India. Many of them have retained much of their original lifestyles. For instance, barter is still in vogue among some groups. Many tribes hold weekly markets called haat, at which visitors can pick up some unique artifacts in terracotta or wood. 7. Personality Plus: Award-winning litterateur Vinod Kumar Shukla is an eminent son of Chhattisgarh. Among his best known works are Naukar Ki Kameez (which was translated into English and published by Penguin), and Deewar Me Ek Khidkhi Rehthi Thi. 8. Sights to See: With large tracts of forest, Chhattisgarh is replete with natural beauty. A visit to the Kanger Valley National Park will give you a chance to see not only tigers and leopards up close but also waterfalls and mysterious caves. 9. Tasty Treats: If there is one distinctive feature of the food habits of the people of Chhattisgarh, it’s their sweet tooth. Crisp golden jalebis, soaked to bursting in sugar syrup, are a ubiquitous part of the menu. Also, the mahuwa fruit is vital in tribal cuisine – from it is made a particularly potent brew. 10. Crafted with Care: Chhattisgarh is known for Dhokra craftsmanship – otherwise called bell metal or lost-wax casting. Initially used to make articles for worship, the skilled craftsmen have now diversified into producing utility and ornamental items, including jewellery. Also famous in this region is kosa silk. Made painstakingly from cocoons of silkworms that feed on specific tree species, this silk is available naturally in shades ranging from cream through pale gold and orange to dark honey, and traditionally coloured and printed with natural dyes. 10. Worshipfully Yours: One of the finest examples of ancient brick temples is located in this state. The seventh century Laxman Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, has a stone lintel or frame for its main doorway and exquisite carvings as well. 1 1.

Ten for the Road by Susan Philip

Chattisgarh 1 Explore the 29 states of this fascinating subcontinent from your armchair. This new segment will set out a collection of interesting, bite-size facts from each state – this month, we look at Chattisgarh

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July 2014

Feature by Suzanne McNeill

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True Tested

1 There are several systems of indigenous medicine in India â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all of which form a comprehensive medical system and way of life â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thus, the concept of holistic health as mind, body and soul originated from India

Traditional Indian medicine has always been holistic in nature, treating the whole person rather than just the physical symptoms of a disease. It aims to restore a balance between the various components of a person, believed to be disturbed in sickness. Disorders and diseases have long been treated with regimes that partner herbal remedies with disciplines such as yoga and cleansing treatments to restore the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s overall balance, and whose central ideas are influenced by Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic philosophy. There are several systems of indigenous medicine in India. Ayurveda is the most common, but other practices are equally well established. All form a comprehensive medical system and also a way of living. The very concept of holistic health as mind, body and soul, originates from India.

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The term ‘Ayurveda’ combines two Sanskrit words: ‘ayur’, which means ‘life’, and ‘veda’, meaning ‘science’ or ‘knowledge’. Photo: Hajo von Keller/Creative Commons

The founding story of medicine in India has a divine beginning. Dhanvantari, an avatar of Vishnu, appears in the Vedas and the Puranas (Hinduism’s founding texts) as the physician of the gods. He is depicted holding a pot of amrita, the celestial nectar that gives immortality, in one hand while another is encircled by a wheel of energy called a chakra. He is the embodiment of perfect health, and his divine presence in herbal medicines removes the fear of old age, disease and death. The name ‘Dhanvantari’ became an honorific for teachers of medicine in ancient India, and the Bhagavata Purana (‘The Divine Eternal Tales of the Supreme God’) proclaims Dhanvantari as the teacher who revealed Ayurveda to the world.

Ayurveda Ayurveda is a system of medicine that originated in India in the Indo-Gangetic Plain and lower Himalayan regions several thousand years ago. The term ‘Ayurveda’ combines two Sanskrit words: ‘ayur’, which means ‘life’, and ‘veda’, meaning ‘science’ or ‘knowledge’. The fundamental concepts and practices of this ‘science of life’ emerged not only from the traditions of tribal and wandering healers and the observations of learned physicians but, also, combined the ascetic traditions of Buddhism and orthodox systems of Hindu philosophy such as Sankhya that sought to understand the universe as a combination of spirit and matter.

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habits and thoughts, proper balance can be re-established and the prakriti, or essential nature of the body, restored. Maintaining the correct balance of a person’s prakriti will, according to the Ayurvedic approach, create and maintain health and longevity. Practitioners prescribe daily and periodic regimes that focus on diet and exercise, herbal tonics, massage and meditation, as well as positive relationships and behaviour. To cure disease, Ayurveda offers various approaches, including internal medicines and detoxification, topical oil treatments, herbal pastes and steam therapies, surgical intervention, mental and spiritual therapies, and drugs based on herbal therapies.

Siddha

The ‛circle of health’ depicts the balance between seasons, body type and disorders. Photo: www.ayurvedaposters.com/Creative Commons

The principles, therapeutic methods and moral guidelines of Ayurveda were codified in Sanskrit in three main texts. The primary text is the Caraka Samhita, based on an original written between 100 BCE and 100 CE. Sections include texts on healthy living and the uses of drugs, the anatomy of the body, the pathology of disease, and diagnosis on the basis of sense. The Susruta Samhita, written in the 3rd or 4th century CE but believed to be based on the works of a physician from the 6th century BCE, principally discusses surgical techniques and procedures. The Bheda Samhita, dating back to between the 4th and 6th centuries CE, lists the names, properties and uses of medicinal plants. By the medieval period, Ayurveda was offering systematic diagnosis and treatment for a great many diseases. It had been classified into eight specialities, which are practised to this day under the following modern categories: internal medicine, which focuses on tridosha imbalance, metabolic function, and digestion; surgery; eye, ear, nose and throat; obstetrics; paediatrics; psychology and psychiatry, which includes spirituality; toxicology, focusing on poisons ranging from insect bites to heavy metals; and rejuvenation or geriatric medicine. The underlying assumption of Ayurveda is that all sickness is due to an imbalance of the three elemental bodily substances, or humours, called tridosha – pitta or bile, the force of the sun, which is hot and rules the digestive processes and metabolism; kapha or phlegm, likened to the moon, the creator of tides, which has a cooling effect and governs the body’s organs; and vata or wind, relating to movement and the nervous system. Essentially, by changing a patient’s diet,

As Ayurvedic medicine flourished in northern India, the practice of Siddha emerged in the south, particularly in the Tamil-speaking region. The foundations were laid by the Siddhars, saintly ascetics who believed that a healthy soul could only be developed through a healthy body. They practised yoga, fasted and meditated to strengthen both their physical bodies, and were believed to achieve supernatural powers and thus immortality. They wrote scriptures on all aspects of life, including science and medicine. It is believed that the Siddha system, too, came from the gods. It was first described by Lord Shiva to his wife Parvathy, who passed it to her son, Lord Murugan, the Tamil god of youth, beauty and divine freedom. Murugan taught this knowledge to his disciple sage, Agasthya, the father of Siddha medicine, some of whose works are still in use today. The Siddha system has a close similarity to Ayurveda. It is based on the five basic elements that make up the universe and everything created within it. Like Ayurveda, Siddha medicine seeks to harmonise and balance the three humours that co-exist within the body by opposing the negative effects of environmental and climatic conditions, diet, physical

“Health for me was always about martial arts, and I'd learned different forms in the West. But coming to India, I found an excellent master who taught the art of kalaripayattu - and it was an eye-opening programme that I immersed myself into. It was not just about exercise, but also about uniting body and mind through the breath. I have taken it back with me and included it in my practice - thank you India!” - Mark Sryhover, USA

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A collection of unani herbs and medicines. Photo: Thaths/Creative Commons

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activity and stress. It is largely therapeutic in nature. Diet and lifestyle play a major role in the Siddha system, and the practice also deals with the concept of salvation in life, through medicine and meditation. Siddha has developed a body of collected knowledge about the use of metals and minerals in drugs, with detailed classifications of the therapeutic properties of compounds, metals and alloys used in healing.

Unani Unani is an Arabic medical tradition that originated in the doctrines of the ancient Greek physicians, Hippocrates and Galen. It was further developed and refined during the period of the Caliphate (which ruled across north Africa, Spain and south-west Asia from the 7th to 11th centuries CE), most prominently by the Muslim scholarphysician Avicenna. Unani medicine arrived in India with the establishment of the Delhi Sultanate, and flourished under the Mughals, who had many eminent Unani physicians, called hakims, in their courts. As with Ayurveda and Siddha,

Unani medicine relies on natural healing based on principles of harmony and balance to unite the physical, mental and spiritual states of health and well-being. To maintain good health, there needs to be a harmonious arrangement between the seven essential principles of the body: arkan, or elements, which are the body’s primary components, the arrangement of which affect a person’s mizaj, or temperament; akhlat, or bodily humours that give rise to an individual’s disposition; aaza, or organs and systems; arwah, the vital spirit; quwa, the body’s faculties or powers; and the body’s functions, called afaal. These physiological principles are kept in balance by the body’s tabiyat, or self-regulating power. The role of the tabiyat is essential for normal health, and in determining an individual’s ability to withstand or combat disease. Unani hakims therefore prescribe therapeutic relief to enable the tabiyat to maintain the body’s natural defence systems, and they recognise six factors called asbabe-sittah-zarooriah that are essential to this: the quality of air a person breathes; the

The Classical Elements When earth, water fire, air and akasa arise, that is to say, when the five attributes of the elements, mentioned in the books on yoga, become manifest, then the yogi’s body becomes purified by the fire of yoga and he is free from illness, old age and death. – Svetasvatara Upanishad, Chapter II, verse 12 Underlying the principles of holistic medicine in India, and fundamental to understanding them, is the set of classical elements that are believed to reflect the essential parts that make up all of creation. The Vedas set out a system of five elements of Hinduism, the panchamahabhuta, which are earth, water, fire, air and the ether. The human body is the replica of the universe and, as with all creation, is made up of these essential elements. Upon death the body dissolves back into these elements, thereby balancing the cycle of nature. Islamic philosophy, too, recognises earth, water, fire and air as the four entities that constitute the primary components of the human body, whilst early Buddhism saw these four elements as a basis for understanding suffering and for liberating oneself from it.

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nutritional value of the food and drink; exercise and rest; stimulating mental activity within a correct 24-hour cycle of sleep and wakefulness; and the elimination of noxious substances from the body. When a person is unwell, the hakim diagnoses the cause by considering the stuff and material the patient is made of, his or her temperament, the different external factors that influence the patient, and nature’s own attempts to maintain the individual’s physical functions. In treating illness, the hakim will initially establish a programme that attempts to normalise the body through diet, detoxification or massage, but the Unani system also has recourse to a vast pharmacopoeia of more than 2,000 medicines derived from various herbal, mineral and animal sources.

Alternative systems Yoga, meditation, chanting, breathing exercises and panchakarma programmes have long histories within India’s tradition of holistic medicine as practices to ensure wellness. A peaceful mind and calm emotions are recognised as being as essential to health and happiness as the elimination of disease and detoxification of the body. The word yoga is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘yuj’, meaning to ‘yoke’ or ‘unite’ and came to be applied to the joining of the body and the mind. It is one of the six orthodox schools of Hindu philosophy that accept the Vedas as supremely revealed scriptures (another is Sankyha, one of the founding philosophies of Ayurveda). Yoga refers to the physical, mental and spiritual disciplines that aim to transform body and mind, and the term is often used within India as the equivalent of a religious practice. Yoga aims at controlling the vital energies of the bodies. Traditionally, the main forms are Hatha Yoga and Raja Yoga. Hatha Yoga focuses on physical and mental strength and the purification of the body through shatkarma, leading to the purification of the mind. Hatha Yoga marked the development of the asanas, or exercises, into the full body postures now in popular usage. Raja Yoga is a system of meditation and concentration. It places little emphasis on the asanas, and focuses instead on moral preparation and allowing the mind to turn inwards. The aim is to lead the spirit to the realisation of its original nature, free from matter or prakriti, and to reach a state of elevated and motionless consciousness. The most popular shatkarma discipline is Pranayama or ‘breath control’. Pranayama seeks to lengthen, control and regulate the breath. It was presented initially as an exercise

‘Pranayama’ or breath control regulates the channels through which enery flows through the body. Photo: José Antonio Morcillo Valenciano/Creative Commons

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e also Herbal teas ar

inor ailments. used to treat m

preliminary to concentration, but is now an exercise to energise, and to balance the nadis, the channels through which the body’s energy flows, and the chakras, the body’s energy points. Other shatkarma purification practices include neti, or nasal washing to cleanse the nasal passages, and nauli, intestinal cleansing, achieved through abdominal exercises. Panchakarma (meaning ‘five actions’) brings together popular holistic therapies that cleanse the body, mind and consciousness. Self-healing programmes include Ayurvedic consultations, massage and sweating therapies, classes in eliminating toxins from the body and balancing the tridoshas, and special diets.

Regional Folk Practices In villages across India, medicinal plants and natural ingredients are widely used to treat ailments, as they have been for hundreds of years. Scholars have recorded thousands of species of plants that are used for medicinal purposes across the country. The seeds, roots, leaves, bark and fruits of plants are used in various preparations and dosages to treat minor illnesses such as coughs, cuts, fever, headaches and toothache, with specific local remedies for traumas such as snakebites. Older people, local medicine men and women and herbalists are the custodians of such knowledge, which will also include midwifery, how to set bones and deal with mental disorders. Some healing practices have long been held to be sacred, with rituals to safeguard them. 1

““When I wondered how women in India had such lustrous thick black hair, I was told that it was due to oil massages. So, while I was in India, I got an oil massage every week with the natural oil of the coconut tree. Now, back home, I find that Body Shop has started selling little boxes of coconut oil!” - Annalise Walters, South Africa.

1 The Indian Government’s Ministry of Health & Family Welfare manages a department dedicated to developing education and research in Ayurveda, Yoga, Unani, and Siddha. Visit their website: http://tinyurl.com/ouev2cy

Listen to a mantra on Lord Dhanvantari: http://tinyurl.com/ AyurYouTube2

1 The National Centre for Biological Sciences in Bengaluru has a page on its website about India’s Healing Traditions. Visit their website: http://tinyurl.com/IndHealTrad

1 Information on Ayurveda on the US National Institutes of Health website about complementary and alternative medicine: http://tinyurl.com/NCCAM-Site

1 Pick up a copy of The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Body-Mind Disciplines – edited by Nancy Allison: http://tinyurl.com/ AyurBook1

1 Read an article about five leading Ayurveda destinations in The Times of India: http://tinyurl.com/ToIGuide 3

Watch a lecture on Ayurveda by practitioner Dr. Deborah Kern: http://tinyurl.com/AyurYouTube1

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In your kitchen by Pratibha Jain

A Fine Balance 1 The diverse cuisines on the gastronomic landscape of the subcontinent are all bound by the thread of a common principle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; achieving a harmony of tastes What is Indian cooking? Is there any one parameter that defines it? Interestingly, India, with its vast terrain houses many states and many cultures and boasts of many cuisines too. Not even the simple daal (lentils) is made the same way across different regions. While the soft fluffy idli of the South and the shahi paneer of Punjab have global recognition, they only represent a region of India each, and not Indian cooking in its entirety. Each region has its own distinctive style of cooking, designed for its geographical and climatic requirements. Yet, amidst the diversity, a thread of unity can be discerned in the common principles based on ayurvedic concepts of health that form the building block of the Indian cooking. One such

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Red Pumpkin Salad Ingredients: Red Pumpkin – 2 cups (when chopped) Onion – 1 medium (chopped fine) Green chilli – 1 (chopped fine) Coriander leaves – A few sprigs (chopped fine) Yogurt – 2 tbsp (beaten) Salt – To taste For tempering: Oil – 1 tsp Split black gram (husked) – 1 tsp Mustard seeds – ½ tsp Asafoetida powder – a pinch Curry leaves – 6 Peel and chop the pumpkin into bite-sized cubes. Steam for 4–5 minutes; the pumpkin has to be cooked but retain its crunchy texture. Strain and set aside to cool. Once the pumpkin cools, add the chopped onions, green chilli and coriander leaves along with salt and beaten yogurt. Mix well and transfer to a salad bowl. In a wok, heat the oil for tempering. Add the black gram and, as it turns golden, add in the mustard and stir till it pops. When the mustard starts to splutter, reduce the flame and add the asafoetida and curry leaves. Pour this tempering over the mixed salad. Chill for half an hour and serve. This recipe is from Sukham Ayu, the award-winning Ayurvedic cookbook by Jigyasa Giri and Pratibha Jain

principle is that of the six tastes or essences, known as Shada Rasa. Every food ingredient, be it a spice, grain or herb, contains the six essences of sweet, sour, salty, pungent, bitter and astringent. However, these essences are not present in equal measure in food ingredients. For instance, chillies are rich in pungent, fenugreek in bitter, and jaggery in sweet essences. A healthy meal is one that has a balance of all six tastes. Ayurvedic guidelines prescribe that one starts a meal with a sweet dish and ends with an astringent flavour such as buttermilk or fennel seeds. What is healthy also varies with each person. There is no one fixed formula – each person has to arrive at what is ideal for him or her based on age, body type, lifestyle, place of stay and such other factors. While any good ayurveda practitioner or nutritionist can guide us to arrive at that understanding, we can do so too using our intuitive capacity. Many of us may remember how, in our growing years, our mothers and grandmothers seemed to know how to treat many of our ailments. The doctor’s advice was rarely sought. The remedy seemed to be hidden in the day-to-day ingredients used in our food. Our grandmothers seemed to intuitively know which ingredient to reach for depending on the symptoms. Each one of us needs to listen to the body, cultivate sensitivity to its comfort and discomfort, and nurture it accordingly. It is a tradition of wisdom, laying stress on holistic health and wellness as the underlying principles for Indian cooking. Enjoy some of these simple food tips to ensure health and wellness: o Cook in a happy frame of mind. o Ensure a clean kitchen and clean ingredients.

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o Use local and seasonal ingredients in your food. o Balance a meal in the proportion of half portion solid, quarter portion liquid and quarter portion air. o Say a prayer of thanks before starting the meal. o Stick to a simple and healthy food routine. o Stop eating before you are completely full. o Cultivate sensitivity towards your body’s well-being. Why not take the first step towards healthy cooking and eating with the given recipe for Red Pumpkin Salad? Pumpkin, with its cooling and nourishing properties, is an ideal vegetable for making soups, salads and side-dishes. This salad also has the goodness of spices from the masala box – a common feature in most Indian kitchens. 1

“When I was posted in India, I was thinking that I would starve – what I enjoy best is a well-made steak, and I was going into a country that originated the phrase ‘holy cow’! However, when I went to the vegetable market, my eyes and palate were in for a delight because there were so many greens, oranges, purples, the colours of nature, all in edible form, that I was able to devour! Cooking these vegetables increased the taste but maintained the nutrition content. And somehow, the lemons in India are tastier even though they are smaller than in the West. The amount of protein that people get here from their 18 kinds of daal never had me bored, and I am almost converted into a vegetarian now from being a hard-core meat eater.” – Jerry Finnigan, Ireland

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Cultural Lens by Ranjini Manian

Fostering cultural sensitivity

Photo:

ards, UK

Julia Edw

1 In a multicultural environment, it is necessary to remember that perceptions differ and the essence of success depends largely on your ability to deal with these differences A leading businessman came to us for a cross-cultural consultancy session – he was having problems with his joint venture partner. Deadlines weren’t being met and he had asked for more time, but he was very offended when his Western partner told him: “I am the customer, I am paying you and you listen to me!” This statement had caused the Indian businessman some emotional turmoil. He was the owner of several business ventures, a respected member of a social club, had connections with various Government ministries and many Indian celebrities knew him. One of his joint ventures was with this Western garment exporter – and the moment these words were uttered, it translated into an insult in his mind. Let’s put the Indian businessman’s thoughts on pause and press play for an insight into his Western partner’s mind. For him, he was dealing with his Indian liaison manager – let’s call him Mr. Mehta. He knew that Mr. Mehta was a well-educated, upper-class Indian; the Westerner had no knowledge of his connections or his hierarchy. When he uttered: “I am the customer, I am paying you and you listen to me,” he was not speaking to Mr. Mehta the Rotarian or the person with the ministry connections. For the Westerner, he was the customer and Mr. Mehta was the provider of a service. Mr. Mehta left that meeting with his joint venture partner with the resolve to dissolve the venture. His team, though, had asked him to come to our company for a consultation. Here’s how such situations could be averted. Some points that Indians need to keep in mind:

Separate the personal and professional space. Don’t read anything into what is being said. Leave behind your baggage of ego and sharpen your listening skills to improve your business. And the most important rule, stick to deadlines. At the other end, here are some simple rules for Westerners: Communicate like a jalebi (a sweet that has a lot of rings leading to the point in the centre). In the above scenario, the client’s feelings could be communicated through a statement like this: “Mr. Mehta, usually you are very good. I enjoy working with your Mumbai and Pune teams, but I am the customer and I want you to listen to me!” Don’t state the obvious about money. Indians are into business for money, but prefer that it is not alluded to. Convey difficult communication in an e-mail for Indians to save face. The joint venture mentioned at the beginning of this article was saved. We helped Mr. Mehta compose a direct e-mail of what he appreciated about the partnership and what he could deliver in the business. It worked! In a multicultural environment, it is necessary to remember that perceptions differ and the essence of success depends largely on your ability to deal with these differences. 1 (This article is a modified version of a piece published by the author in The Hindu Business Line print edition, October 6, 2008. Read the article at http://tinyurl.com/nsz6zz3 )

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July 2014

Global Wellness Series

The science of Otorhinolaryngology is what is known to lay people

Tackling the Three

Common problems affecting the Ear, nose and throat include

as ENT, or diagnosis of diseases involving the ear, nose and throat. Adenoids, tonsils and Sinus. Recently Obstructive sleep apnea and cochlear implant surgeries seem to be the commonest of ENT problems. Obstructive sleep apnea (OSA): Muscle tone of the body ordinarily relaxes during sleep, and the airway walls of the throat are composed of soft tissue, it can collapse and can be obstructed during sleep in some patients. This leads to snoring problems and daytime sleepiness. Evaluating the patient involves sleep study (polysomnography) to assess oxygen saturation, heart and brain. Mild OSA patients should avoid alcohol and sedatives, reduce weight, avoid supine position and use oral prosthesis to keep airway clear. Severe OSA patients need to have a surgery done to resolve the problem. Cochlear Implant: A cochlear implant is a small device that is fitted over profound and severe deaf patients to help them sense sound and understand speech. The implants have an external

1 Dr.Sundhari of the Department of ENT, Global Hospitals reveals common issues that affect the Ear, Nose and Throat and how they are dealt with.

portion that is fitted behind the ear and an internal portionsurgically placed under the skin and connected to the cochlea (inner ear). The device bypasses damaged portions of the ear and directly stimulates the auditory nerve. 1

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Look who’s in town Mumbai

Family’s Day Out

1 The Bloemendal family, from holland, exploreS the many ways in which the children have adapted to life in Mumbai

The Bloemendal family’s life in Mumbai started off on a happy note. Rinske Bloemendal’s son celebrated his fifth birthday a few days after they landed in the city. The family was staying at a hotel and had no plans of celebrating the occasion, as they knew no one locally. “It was hard on him because we did not know anybody yet, and, of course, the family was not around. The hotel staff knew it was his birthday – when we arrived at breakfast, we found they had gifts, chocolate cupcakes and decorations. And they came to sing ‘Happy Birthday’ at our table. The whole day, he was congratulated by all staff he encountered!” Having lived in Mumbai for about a year now, Rinske, her husband Paul and their two children find the city “very colourful and interesting”. Rinske, a member of the Executive Council at the Foundation for Mother and Child Health, is particularly interested in exploring child-friendly entertainment spots for her kids in this bustling metropolis. Playtime Options In Holland, entertainment is all about being outside. Dutch people love being outside – rain or shine. Everywhere, you can find playgrounds, parks, petting zoos, skate parks and so on. In India,

most of the time, it is too hot or too wet to go outside. The roads are also too busy to play on. For children, I would definitely suggest Funkey Monkeys – an indoor play ground (http://www.funkymonkeys.in) in Lower Parel and Andheri. The Canvas Laugh Factory offers theatre for children. Also, there are many playgrounds they can visit – the ones you pay a small fee for are well kept and clean. To be on top of events and place, check the Internet. Be a part of different groups, such as the Mumbai Hopping Bunnies, The American Women’s Club or Mumbai Connexions. These organisations are very much on top of things happening in the city, and share them in newsletters or on Facebook. When in Holland In Holland, many museums are free for children and have children’s themes such as railways, toys or technology. Or, just go outside! Find a playground and make some friends; rent a bike and do what the Dutch do – enjoy the scenery while cycling around. 1

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July 2014

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Look who’s in town Chennai

The Shopper’s Stop 1 Mexican Juan Pablo de la Garza and his family go shopping in Chennai, and discover the big and the small of the options the city has to offer A year in Chennai changed Mexican Juan Pablo’s outlook on shopping in the city. “At first I wondered how we would be able to find all the things that we needed to live here.”

Centre’ in Alwarpet. The best place to buy souvenirs is Spencer Plaza. You can also go to the ‘Government Emporium’ at Temple Towers, and ‘Victoria Technical Institute’ – both located in Anna Salai.

However, time and a bit of exploring has helped him realise that options are aplenty in this bustling South Indian city. “Chennai is full of stores of all sizes, which offer a wide variety of shopping options – from the large shopping malls to the small specialty stores where you can find almost anything you need.

Internet and home delivery are great options too, and are becoming more and more popular in the city.

Initially, it can be a challenge to get used to the different shopping experiences that Chennai offers to the expats. After some time, and with help from others, you will find everything you need and enjoy your stay.”

Shopper Tips •

If you find something you need, buy it – don’t wait, because you might not find it again, or it might take a long time for the store to restock.

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Expect store keepers to follow you within the store; sometimes they may not let you decide freely. They are doing so as it is their job to assist you in a friendly manner – so, try and get used to it or ask them to give you some space in a polite manner.

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Carry reusable shopping bags and help the environment – many stores here charge for each plastic bag used.

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It is common for sales persons to insist on showing their goods. Sometimes they will unpack and stack so many items that you will be amazed at their interest to sell to you!

Retail Therapy In the beginning, an expat may prefer to shop in Phoenix Market City or Express Avenue Mall. Later, one discovers more options. For groceries you can find imported items in ‘Amma Naana’ located on Chamiers Road, ‘Five Stars Classic’ in ECR, ‘Mercado’ in Besant Nagar and the ‘Nilgiris’ or ‘Spencers’ chain stores around the city. Big supermarkets with a wide variety of local items include ‘The Spencers Hypermart’ located in Velachery Main Road, and ‘The Big Bazaar’ in Phoenix Mall and Express Avenue. Recommendable fruits and vegetable shops in Chennai; ‘Farm Fresh’ in Mylapore, ‘Kovai Pazhamudhir Cholai’ in Besant Nagar and ‘Uzhavar Pazhamudir Nilayam’ in ECR. Kitchen and home appliances can be purchased at Vivek’s, Croma and Shahs stores located throughout the city. Household items can be purchased at ‘Currimbhoys’ in Adyar, ‘Home Stop’ in Phoenix Mall, and ‘Home

When in Mexico In Mexico, it is common to buy from big brand stores that handle all types of items in one location. This reduces transit time, and makes the experience easier and faster. Indians might miss some fruits, vegetables and spices in Mexico. Also, the number of sales persons in a store in Mexico is definitely less than in India! 1

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July 2014

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Look who’s in town Bengaluru

French Delight

1 French femme Mandy Cavailles experiences Bengaluru’s burgeoning grocery hotspots to cook up a meal that is reminiscent of home Mandy Cavaille, who recently moved from France to Bengaluru, is amazed at the city’s mix of gourmet shops selling exclusive food products and street markets. “I was with my driver in the car, and we went past a display of meat and fish in the street. They were all kept on planks of wood, with nothing to keep the meat fresh in the sun. My driver told me that he loves this meat. I said, ‘Okay’, but didn’t try them!” Mandy, who lives with her husband, loves to rustle up French dishes in her Indian kitchen, and enjoys scouting out cooking demonstrations, shops that sell special ingredients such as baguettes or puff pastry, and much more. To market, to market In France, it is easy to find products for cooking. There is a market three times a week in the morning, or there are big supermarkets with good quality products where everything is available in the same place. In India, it is not the same – it can take a while to find what you want. I like cooking French meals; we are not vegetarian, so sometimes I have to go to four different places to find everything! Fortunately, I met lots of people and a very kind French girl is helping me to get settled in. Best Buys •

If you like beef, whole chicken or tiger prawns, close your eyes and go to ‘Bamburies’ in Richmond Road.

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Do you love cheese – especially fresh Italian cheese? You have to go to ‘Vallombrosa’ (www.vallombrosacheese.com).

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At Novotel in Marathahalli, you can have a class with a chef to learn how to make puff pastry, apple chausson or French baguette. Otherwise, you can just buy it!

Shopping Tips •

If you don’t know the shop, buy just a little first to see if the products are good.

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For meat or fish, check with other expats for the best places to buy in your area.

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Don’t forget your icebox when you buy meat or fish. It is very hot during the day and you never know how long time it will take to get home – given the heavy traffic!

When in France Check out the meat section in French supermarkets such as Carrefour, Auchan or Leclerc. They have a very good choice of products. A lot of products that make cooking simple (like puff pastry) are sold in supermarkets in France. 1

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July 2014

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In Focus by Team Culturama

A supplement in time…

Founder and Chairman of British Biologicals, V.S. Reddy. PhotoS: British Biologicals

1 when bengaluru-based British Biologicals was formed in 1988, it entered a new area in the pharma sector with ‘nutraceuticals’ – today, the company’S Success has earned it the moniker of ‘protein people’

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When it was founded in 1988, British Biologicals was entering a field that few people had heard of, let alone considered as a business sector. Today, the company is known as ‘the protein people’ for its range of ‘nutraceuticals’ or food supplements that are designed keeping in mind the requirements of the therapy the patient is undergoing. The products are particularly helpful for those undergoing harsh treatments for diseases such as cancer. The aim is to ensure the maximum in health benefits, and thereby enhance their quality of life. The Bengaluru-based company has expanded its reach across India and even overseas through tie-ups with pharma companies such as Finland’s Raisio Group. In line with its efforts, the company has been the recipient of several awards and accolades – British Biologicals was the first company to become a member of the prestigious International Food Technologies in the US; they were adjudged the second-best company to work in the nutraceutical field; and they are the only company to have conducted over 1,45,000 diabetes detection camps across India. In this interview with Culturama, V.S. Reddy, the company’s Chairman, talks about the the company’s motivations, the importance of good nutrition and the role of alternative healing practices in the world of modern medicine. Your company was the first to introduce nutraceuticals. What are nutraceuticals? The term ‘nutraceuticals’ was coined in 1989 – till then, it was under the umbrella of pharmaceuticals. Nutraceuticals include functional foods, beverages and dietary supplements. It also includes products made of functional ingredients such as proteins, vitamins, minerals and so on, which provide health benefits including prevention and treatment of illnesses. When we first introduced nutritional supplements in India in the 1980s, we realised that there was a huge gap to fill in terms of providing the right nutrition to

July 2014

patients suffering from various illnesses such as renal failure and cancer. Supplementing nutrition was not a part of the regular treatment at that point in time; however, backed by science, we were able to create nutritional supplements that were not only effective but also palatable. How has the nutraceutical sector evolved in India over the past decade? When I started the company some 25 years ago, the Indian nutraceutical industry was in a nascent state but I knew it had great potential. Over the past five years, the Indian nutraceuticals market has been growing at a rapid pace, but still there is a lot to be achieved. Over the past couple of decades, nutrition has been one of the key segments of growth in India – some have even termed it as a ‘sunrise sector’. Factors such as increasing consumer health awareness, increase in disposable income, increase in co-prescription with regular drugs and awareness on nutrition have led to the growth and acceptance of the sector. How are Indians viewed when they share a global stage? Years ago India was viewed as the land of snake charmers and turbans; but we are also the land of the Vedas. A lot has changed in the past few decades

July 2014

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1 “India is now in the forefront of technology, innovation, pharma and services. There is immense respect for India and its contribution to the world.” and India is now in the forefront of technology, innovation, pharma and services. There is immense respect for India and its contribution to the world; people now recognise the role we play in the global economy. The next big thing will certainly not be in the Silicon Valley but an alley in Bengaluru. There is a lot of talk about healing through 'alternative' means such as macro diets and spiritual healing. What is the role of such treatments in the modern world of medicine? Over the years, more and more people have been using alternative medicine because traditional medicine is not working for them. If alternative medicine is used in conjunction with traditional allopathic medicine as an integrative or complimentary medicine, it would be a person’s best option. Some traditional doctors are against it and some simply do not believe in complementary medicine, even though research continues to show the benefits of many compounds. What words of advice would you share with managers looking to climb the corporate ladder? Patience and persistence are two of the most important qualities you need in order to grow in any industry. Time and again we have seen that hard work gives results, having said that, it is also important to understand the market and the environment that the person is working in. Also, one should never compromise on the quality; people will always remember and get back to you if the quality of work is good.

Most importantly we should believe in the work we do, belief will act as a driving force and keeps a person motivated to achieve more. Stress is said to be the root cause of most health issues. Do you have any tips for stress management – especially for those in high-octane management positions? Stress and food go hand-in-hand. Food can give us the sense of power, control and contentment that we need in stressful situations. Giving your body the proper nutrition it needs is a positive stride you can take every day toward fighting stress. With the right nutrition, you are better prepared to face the challenges of the day. Our nutritional habits affect our health, happiness and our ability to get a good night's sleep. The creation of a healthy lifestyle takes place with a multifaceted approach that includes coping with daily stress, incorporating a positive outlook to life and developing sound nutritional habits. 1

“When I was fighting carcinoma, I had heard of the importance of using turmeric to have chemo work better on my body - and the idea that an Indian friend gave to drink it as a tea works beautifully and it works much better now.” - Dominique Fontaine, France

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July 2014

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Picture Story by Team Culturama

Street-side Remedies India’s roadside doctors may have no degrees, but they sure have a cure for healing broken bones, treating body pain, fixing broken teeth and even preventing possible calamities by looking out for them in the lines on your palm. Body, mind and soul – they take care of everything, and have something for everyone. Their colourful, catchy and convincing boards, propped up behind their ‘shop’, can often give spin doctors a run for their money. 1

The village doctor filters oil, adds in a dash of herbs and imparts a special touch to the concoction. The oil extracted from this is the ‘magic’ potion that draws patients to him. pHOTO Pellegrinelli Christophe, France

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July 2014

Sardar Chiman Singh does his ‘root canal’ treatment on a patient as passers-by watch. Also, the toothless can avail of prosthetic jaw sets in all shapes and sizes! pHOTO Deborah Miller, USA

Khalid the ‘massage man’ has his compact shack on a beach in Goa. His doors are always open for those who seek a remedy for tired bodies and weary bones. pHOTO J.F. Vial, France He rests after putting many a troubled mind to rest – a magnifying glass and a book of fortunes are the tools of trade for this fortune teller, who scans people’s palms and advises seekers on how best to overcome their troubles in life. pHOTO Cathy Maljournal, France

‘Doctor’ Chowdhury Mahalwan promises to heal broken bones anywhere in the body, and even aches and pains that have been with you for ages. A patient stands outside, probably as a poster boy for the healer. pHOTO Christopher Wheeler

July 2014

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The Golden Temple in Amritsar. Photo: Keval Singh

Seeing India by Keval Singh

Memories without Borders

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July 2014

Change of guards at the Wagah border. Photo: Wikipedia

As a Singaporean of Indian descent, I have always had a strong link to the subcontinent my ancestors came from. In fact, it was only in 1995 when my mother took my sister and me to my grandfather’s village for a visit, did I realise that we had family residing outside of Singapore. My grandfather had left the country in the 1950s after marrying my grandmother – the move was motivated by the hope and desire for a better life. I revisited Amritsar more than a decade later. I did not expect much to change since the mid-1990s, except the added presence of a few nephews and nieces. The excitement was quite palpable as we flew from Singapore to Delhi, and rattled onward in the train to Amritsar. But the familial visits could wait – first, I wanted to explore the city that was the birthplace of the Sikh religion. In specific, the list of mustvisit places included the Harmandir Sahib or Golden Temple – the holiest shrine for Sikhs. The Temple was originally built in 1574 and rebuilt in the 1760s following an attack by the Afghans. The temple has four entrances, symbolising the openness of Sikhs towards all people and religions. From the time the temple comes into view from the main entrance, you are immersed in the ethereal – in no small measure due to the hymns floating

1 An expat of Indian origin rediscovers the links of culture and history that bind him to the holy city of Amritsar from the speakers all around. All at once, it seems as if the troubles of the world have been dissolved in the nectar pool that surrounds the temple. At first, I thought such emotions were peculiar to me and perhaps my fellows Sikhs, but, as I was to find out from conversations I had with some backpackers from Europe, it resonates among those who are not of the faith too. The last time we went to Amritsar, a trip to Jalianwala Bagh was dropped because of time constraints, so it was imperative to go there this time, given the historical significance of the site. In April 1919, a massacre took place in the bagh (public park). What started out as a peaceful demonstration was seen as an act of defiance against a ban on all public meetings by the British colonials. Those gathered in the park (up to 20,000 people, some estimates say) were shot at on the orders of British Brigadier-General Reginald E.H. Dyer. Official sources said 379 people were killed; others run the count up to at least a thousand. Historians consider the episode as a decisive step towards the end of British

July 2014

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The lanes of Jallianwalah Bagh. Photo: Keval Singh

Getting there: Trains for Amritsar Junction leave from New Delhi Railway Station, and it takes about 6 to 7 hours on the Shatabdi Express. Flights are mostly to Delhi, though Jet Airways flies to London, Air India to Toronto and Qatar Airways to Doha. Buses run from Amritsar to several Punjabi cities and Delhi.

rule in India. Given my deep interest in history, I wanted to see the place for myself, especially since I had seen it in several films. Unfortunately, I was disappointed – the grass and gravel from the movie scenes had been replaced by a large structure commemorating the dead, pavements and trees. It felt too contrived and I wish it had been left untouched. That, in my opinion, would have been a better memory and tribute. A well into which people jumped in an attempt to save their lives is also standing – it is a protected monument and mostly meshed up. The city of Amritsar is close to the border with Pakistan, and a border closing ceremony is held at the border town of Wagah every day. We hired a car to take us there, past honking trucks whizzing by in the opposite direction at breakneck speed. Forty-five minutes after leaving Amritsar, we walked out of the car into what looked like a carnival. There was loud music blaring from some speaker or the other, stalls selling snacks, flags and other trinkets. We also saw a group of young men sporting saffron bandanas, and one or two pairs of drums strung on their shoulders. It was almost impossible not to be swept away by the atmosphere. Apparently, the flag

lowering ceremony used to be a much more serious affair, but looking around made such an assertion seem implausible. Minutes after settling down at the stands next to the border gate, we caught sight of a number of people from the audience making a dash for a piece of tarmac alongside almost nonchalant border guards to dance to Hindi/Punjabi tunes in a show of pop patriotism – never mind that not all the songs have anything to do with love of country or nationalism. Then came the performance of the border guards. Each man would stamp his boot with equal, if not greater force, than the soldier on the other side, spurred on by the cheers of his respective audience. The more precise the synchronisation, the wilder the crowd became. On both sides of the border, we saw men waving the flags of their countries against the setting sun. When the show ended, I noticed people rushing for the gates to meet friends or relatives separated by politics. Somewhere inside, I crumbled. My grandparents, and millions like them, were forced to choose sides as both India and Pakistan limped towards independence in 1947. Yet, I reminded myself, borders do not divide us – we do. 1

Eat: Amritsar is home to several restaurants and dhabas, including the famous Bhrawan da Dhaba, which is famous for rotis dipped in generous amounts of ghee. The story goes that the brothers who set up Bhrawan da Dhaba had a falling out and one of them broke away and opened another restaurant right next door. If it's a proper sit-down place you're looking for, try out Crystal on Cooper Road. Here you'll find both vegetarian and nonvegetarian options. Read: 1 The Butcher of Amritsar: General Reginald Dyer by Nigel Collett 1 Amritsar: Mrs Gandhi's Last Battle by Mark Tully 1 A History of the Sikhs by Khushwant Singh

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July 2014

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Seeing India by Shefali Ganesh

On the Cauvery’s

Banks

1 on the road to mysore, stop by the banks of the cauvery river, pick up a wooden souvenir from chennapatna, and end your day with a visit to the shiva temple at nanjangud

Taking a walk along the banks of the Cauvery River. (Right) Soapstone carved into various forms; a boy frolics in the cool waters. PhotoS: All photos by the author

The barren hills are surrounded by thorny shrubs and scant greenery – not a place where one could go on a picnic or walk around and take in the scenery. However, Vinayak, our driver for the trip, insists that these were the very hills that Dr. Aziz explored with Adela Quested – the Marabar Caves – in The Passage to India. Sensing my disbelief, he tries to convince me of the importance of these small hillocks. “Even the famous Hindi movie Sholay was shot here – did you know? That’s why they are called ‘Sholay hills’,” he insists. When we are sufficiently impressed, we drive on through the town of Ramanagara, where we chance upon ‘The Silk City College’. Pride is evident in Vinayak’s voice when he explains that this is where he hails from, and that it is known as the ‘silk town’ of Karnataka. It is from the silk produced here that the sought-after Mysore silk saris are made. We begin our journey towards Mysore, and further down to a little town called Nanjangud. We spot the Ramanagara silk cocoon market just as we

are exiting Nanjangud; Vinayak obligingly stops. We dodge people who are carrying crates containing white mounds and huge gunny bags – the mounds are a few tones of silk cocoons, with live silk worms in them! Further down, we see the same cocoons in a yellow avatar. A trader explains to us that the white ones are the superior variety as they give longer yarns of silk. Each little cocoon, he says, gives almost a kilometre of silk. To get a kilo of silk, nearly 5,000 worms are required. Around 50 tonnes of silk cocoons are traded in this market alone – all mostly used to make Mysore silk saris. When we get over the initial excitement of seeing the cocoons, the smell of live worms begins to overwhelm us. We take one yellow cocoon as a souvenir, and can’t stop touching its soft muzzy exterior as we walk out of the market. With one souvenir taken care of, we wonder if the next one would be a silk sari. However, my next keepsake comes from the town of Chennapatna. A little road leads us to a seemingly decrepit but functional unit of ‘Cauvery’, the

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popular brand for Karnataka handicrafts. Chennapatna is famous for its colourful, hand-crafted indigenous wooden toys – so much so that it is locally known as ‘Gombegala Ooru’ or ‘toy town’. The traditional craft has received the Geographical Indication or GI mark from the World Trade Organization. We watch as small pieces of soft white wood are transformed into blocks, spheres and circles. These are then run over on a machine with pieces of coloured lac that coat the wood with waxy, natural colours. Soon, keychains, bangles, paper weights and little wooden puzzles emerge. There are many such units that make these handicrafts – some even boast of having received orders from Michelle Obama. While the variety of products is mind boggling, it is clear that these units have to compete with Chinese plastic imports and electronic gadgets. All through the town, the roads are dotted with showrooms that sell the wooden handicrafts and toys, with the common mascot being the wooden rocking horse. Karnataka is where the river Cauvery, considered sacred by the Hindus, has its origins in a place called ‘Talakaveri’. The green fertile fields along the way are the river’s blessings to the people of this region. A dip in this ‘Ganges of the South’ is said to relieve one of all past sins – it seems almost like a coincidence that every temple here has the river flowing beside it. The Cauvery meanders past Talakaveri, crosses the region of Coorg and flows on to form a small island at Srirangapatna. The island is a much frequented temple town – named after the imposing temple of Lord Vishnu. While looking for a suitable place from which I can get a photograph of the temple tower, I see a man sitting in a corner shop, covered by a small cloud of grey dust. Manjunath sells handcarved soapstone images – of Buddha, Shiva in linga form, Nandi (the divine bull) and more. Watching him chisel out a small bull figurine is a fascinating process; his livelihood is based on a traditional craft that his family has practised for generations. After a visit to the magnificent temple, with an intricately carved soapstone lamp in hand, we spend a few minutes on the banks of the gentle river. Following the Cauvery’s path is not complete without dipping your feet in its cool gushing waters –we get to do this at the Nimishamba temple in Srirangapatna. This temple is considered special for its Goddess, who grants wishes, and for the scenic beauty lent by the river flowing beside. We sit on the Cauvery’s banks, munch on a slice of melon, get a relaxing fish pedicure and watch local boys gambol in the cool waters – little wonder we don’t see time fly by. After a while, we head off to take in the sights around Tipu Sultan’s summer palace.

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Srirangapatna had seen much strife in the 18th century, when Tipu Sultan made it the capital of Mysore. It was here that the last battle was fought between Tipu Sultan’s army and the British forces – and on the ramparts of the fort that Tipu Sultan was killed, where a memorial now stands. As we enter Mysore, we look at the magnificent palace – the official residence of the former royal family of Wodeyars. Disheartened by the sight of jostling weekend crowds, we refrain from going into the palace, and instead walk around the grounds and take in its grandeur from outside. After a little shut-eye in Mysore, we go for a drive alongside Kabini, the Cauvery’s subsidiary. The bridge across the river Kabini, parallel to the one we are travelling on, is India’s oldest railway bridge. The 270-year-old bridge is a heritage structure, with its brick-and-stone stylised arches, and once connected Mysore to Nanjangud town. We see our eventual destination, the towering Shiva statue, at Nanjangud. We are torn between the sounds of the Cauvery gushing by, and the Shiva temple on the other side of the road. The temple elephant raises his trunk and hails us to see the Lord who swallowed poison to save the world (In Kannada, nanj is poison and und is to eat). It is here that I realise that the last souvenir would be the memories of the journey, and maybe a handful of the Cauvery in a jar. 1

July 2014

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Calendar of events

July

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs

Art & Exhibitions

Vintage Photography Exhibition Bengaluru

Exhibition of Ceramic Works Delhi

The works of the legendary 19th-century photographer, Raja Lala Deen Dayal will be exhibited along with a rare collection of photographs, glass plate negatives and studio furniture. The collection depicts British rule in India, portraits of royalty and common people, landscapes and monuments. Call +91 80 22342338 for more details

Apparao Galleries presents ‘Engaging the Earth’ – an exhibition of ceramic works by Rahul Kumar. The exhibition is a collection of stunning ceramics and aims to engage the viewer and to ask questions pertaining to origins and concept of self. Pottery as an art form has been practised since man invented the wheel, and this exhibition aims to bring out the artistic element that found its way into pottery. Call +91 11 23313726 for more details.

Date: June 21 to July 20 Venue: National Gallery of Modern Art, Palace Road, Bengaluru

Date: June 16 to July 31 Venue: Apparao Galleries, Tansen Marg, Mandi House, Delhi

Exhibition of Paintings Mumbai Art Musings presents ‘Rhapsody’ – featuring watercolour works by Paris based artist Maya Burman. Daughter of celebrated Indian painter Sakti Burman and French artist Maite Delteil, Maya has a distinctive style of floral, decorative patterns. She follows the French Art Nouveau traditions. Call +91 22 22163339 for more details. Date: June 5 to July 20 Venue: Art Musings, Admiralty Building, Colaba Cross Lane, Mumbai

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July 2014

EVENTS

Crafts Film Festival Chennai The Crafts Council of India, founded by Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay, is celebrating its Golden jubilee this year. The council will be holding a ‘Crafts Film Festival’ – a first of its kind, among other programmes. Anchored by actress Suhasini Maniratnam, the festival will showcase craft films and panel discussions. In conjunction with this, a contest titled ‘Moving Art – Films on Crafts’ will be run from July 1–20. This is a call for-one minute video films on crafts from the general public and students. Winners will be announced, and their entries shown, at the festival. Contact the Crafts Council of India at +91 44 24341456 for more details. Date: July 26 Venue: Russian Cultural Centre, Alwarpet, Chennai

Theatre Festival for Children Chennai / Bengaluru / Delhi AHA! The annual theatre festival from the house of Ranga Shankara is back. InKo Centre, as part of this festival, presents a musical performance: Taroo’s The Tiger with the white eyebrows. The performance will have a musical narrative accompanied by traditional Korean instruments. Call +91 44 24361224 for more details. Date: July 9 (Chennai), July 16,17 (Bengaluru), July 13,14 (Delhi) Time: 1900h Venue: Museum Theatre, Egmore, Chennai; Ranga Shankara, Bengaluru; IPSAA school, Gurgaon

July 2014

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Film Viewing Mumbai

The Pondy Marathon Pondicherry

Alliance Francaise will present a French movie, Mauvais Sang, directed by Leo Carax. The 105-minute film tells the story of two ageing thieves Marc and Hans who owe money to a tough American woman, and have a tight deadline. They scheme to steal and sell a new serum for a disease that’s killing lovers, but they need someone with quick steady hands. Set in Paris, the movie has double crosses, a daring rescue and action. Call +91 22 22035993 for more details.

The annual Pondy Marathon hosted by Pondicherry Tourism is back – and calling for participation from all age and fitness levels in the run. The quaint seaside town, just a couple of hours away from Chennai, is a great place for a fun and rewarding marathon. The running distances are 10km and 21.1 km. Registrations for the run are on. Visit www.pondymarathon.com for more details.

Date: July 7 Venue: Alliance Francaise de Bombay, 40, Theosophy Hall, Churchgate, Mumbai

English Play Mumbai T Pot Production presents Six Characters in Search of an Author, written by Italian playwright Luigi Pirandello. A director while rehearsing for a play with his actors is rudely interrupted by six strangers, who claim to be looking for an author. The play within a play is a tragic drama and is considered relevant in today’s times. Date: July 15 to 17 Venue: Prithvi Theatre, 20, Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Road, Mumbai Time: 2100h

Workshop for Children Delhi Cynosure India brings ‘The Summer Factory’ – a workshop for children from 8 to 12 years old, to introduce them to the works of Roald Dahl. The workshop will provide an opportunity to be part of theatre exercises, creating dialogues and understanding Roald Dahl’s characters. There will be a final theatre performance for all participants. Call +91 11 24682222 for more details. Date: Weekends from July 5 to September 30 Venue: India Habitat Centre, Max Mueller Marg, Delhi

Date: August 10 Time: 4.30 a.m. Venue: Gandhi Thidal, Pondicherry

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July 2014

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Photo: Wikipedia

Spotlight by Team Culturama

Kalachakra July 3 to 14

The snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas in Leh will see a flurry of colour this month â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Buddhist tradition of Kalachakra initiation will take place under the guidance of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. This year's ritual is the 33rd in the series of Kalachakra ceremonies performed across the world since 1954. The tradition of Kalachakra is based on the concept of time and the cycles of the planets (kala means time, and chakra is the cycle of planets). The ceremony is centred on the practice of working with the energies within oneself for the path to enlightenment. The ritual is usually held over 12 days - of this, eight days consist of preparation rituals

during which the monks make the mandala. The mandala will represent the many thousand deities of Tibetan Buddhism during the ritual, and is drawn using coloured sand and will have silken thangkas (a form of painting) surrounding it. The Dalai Lama blesses all the items that go into the preparation of the mandala. As part of the ceremonies, on July 9, the Kalachakra Ritual dance will be performed by the Namgyal Monastery. Participation in the Kalachakra is free and requires only an identification document. 1 5 Watch the Namgyal Monastery monks perform the Kalachakra Ritual Dance during His Holiness the Dalai Lama's Kalachakra for World Peace in Bodh Gaya, India, in 2011: http://www. savetubevideo.com/?v=QBsVcxFIARQ 3 Visit the official website of the 33rd Kalachakra for more details: http://www.ladakhkalachakra2014.com/

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July 2014

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Daily Cuppa by Zach Marks and Resham Gellatly

A Brew to

Remember

Photo: All photos by the authors

1 A quintessential Yemeni delight, sulaimani chai was brought to the southern city of Hyderabad by Arab migrants – who keep alive the recipe and remembrance of home

In Hyderabad’s Barkas neighbourhood where residents are descendants of Yemeni immigrants and many shop signs are written in Arabic, a sip of sulaimani chai can take you to the Gulf. The city’s chai culture has long been dominated by its famous Irani cafes, so called because their owners migrated to India from present-day Iran. Cafes such as Paradise, Red Rose and Grand Hotel became local institutions, with their sugary tea and snacks such as Osmania biscuits and lukhmi – a fried square patty filled with mutton kheema. While Hyderabadis love the sweet, milky ‘Irani chai’ served at these cafes, the concoction is quite different from the tea consumed in Iran and the Persian Gulf, which is prepared without milk. “The tea we serve is not Irani. It is just sold by an Irani,” explained Grand Hotel owner Jaleel Farrokh Rooz. “Irani cafes started adding milk to cater to the tastes of Indian customers, who all liked to drink milk. But if you are looking for authentic sulaimani chai, you will not find it in an Irani cafe.” We were indeed looking for authentic sulaimani chai. We had heard that the sugary black tea, occasionally brewed with lemon or a hint of mint, had been a specialty of the city from the time of the Nizams, but we could not seem to find it. Sulaimani chai was not prepared at roadside tea stands or Irani cafes. We asked where to find the drink and

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the answer was always, “For sulaimani chai, you have to go to Barkas.” When people told us to go Barkas, they often did so with a smirk on their face. Apparently, the neighbourhood, about six kilometres south of Hyderabad’s Old City, had a reputation as a hang-out for gangsters. A friend of ours, a journalist, explained: “People say if you have some small problem, you go to Dulpet [another neighbourhood notorious for crime], but if you have a big problem, you go to Barkas.” While this might be true, it sounded a bit like a myth grown from lack of knowledge about the area. Barkas has long been isolated from the rest of Hyderabad. The neighbourhood’s name, a corruption of the English word ‘barracks’, hints at its history – it used to be the housing quarters for troops from the Nizam’s army. Surrounded by hostile maharajas and nawabs in the Deccan, Hyderabad’s rulers enlisted soldiers from the Arabian Peninsula, most of them from the Hadrami community in present-day Yemen, who were prized for their strength, loyalty and fierceness in battle. To this day, most Barkas residents are descendants of these soldiers and other Arab immigrants who came to work in the Nizam’s administration. We visited Barkas on a sunny Tuesday morning. Within moments, a young man on a motorbike pulled up to check us out. The man seemed skeptical of us at first, but when he realised we had come only to sample sulaimani chai, he introduced himself as Ali and insisted on accompanying us for a cup. As we walked down Barkas’ main street, Ali told us the legend behind this piece of land: “There was a time when the Nizam came to this place to do his hunting. You see, this was all jungle. He didn’t want anybody to come behind him when he was hunting. But a sufi saint followed him to protect him. The Nizam was crouched down hunting, when out of nowhere a tiger jumped and attacked him. The saint shot the tiger down, saving the Nizam’s life. The Nizam shouted, ‘What do you want?’ The saint said he was part of this community from Yemen and asked for this area for his people in exchange for protecting the Nizam. The Nizam agreed and made this the barracks for his Yemeni soldiers.” Ali paused and added. “A lot of time has passed, but we have maintained our traditions. We still drink sulaimani chai every day.” With that, Ali introduced us to Hamed Abdullah, a man with a salt-and-pepper beard wearing a rounded, white topi or cap and a loose-fitting striped shirt. “He is an internationally known chai wallah,” Ali said of Hamed, who offered a small smile in response. Loyal customers often bestow hyperbolic praise on their favourite tea vendors, but in Hamed’s case, the compliment is accurate. Hamed has sold tea in Yemen, Saudi Arabia, Oman and the United Arab

July 2014

Emirates. Into four neatly arranged glasses filled with two heaped spoons of sugar each, Hamed poured a pot of brewed black tea through a strainer containing more tea dust to give the decoction extra strength. We enjoyed the strong, sweet tea with another customer, a man on a visit home from work in Oman, who said his grandfather had fought for the Nizam in 1948 during Operation Polo, in which the Indian army invaded and annexed Hyderabad. We said goodbye to Hamed and headed down the street, passing a restaurant serving hadrami harees, a Middle Eastern dish made of wheat, meat and butter. One hundred metres down from Hamed’s table was a wooden cart manned by Kaleem Bin Abdullah Lahamadi, or Kaleem Bhai, who invited us to try sulaimani nana – black tea with mint (nana in Arabic). It was refreshing, delicious and priced at Rs. 4 a glass. We noticed that the wooden box containing Kaleem Bhai’s supplies had two lines painted on it in Arabic script. One line began with ‘4’, which was the sulaimani tea, the other with ‘10’. Ali explained that the other item was gahwa – made with ground coffee beans, dried ginger and cardamom. “It is a taste of Yemen,” Ali said. “A taste you will not forget.” We ordered one and enjoyed the mingling of the bitter coffee, spicy ginger, fragrant cardamom and sweet sugar. On a pole next to Kaleem Bhai’s stand was a poster in Arabic offering travel packages to the Gulf. By taking another sip of gahwa, it felt like we had made the trip and saved the airfare. 1

July 2014

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1 The Mumbaibased Foundation for Mother and Child Health (FMCH) India aims to tackle malnourishment through innovative ways

Give to India by Shefali Ganesh

Hungry for Change In a small room in Mumbai, a group of women sit around a cookery demonstration and hold animated discussions on healthy food habits, special foods for children and so on. However, this is not a scene from a kitchen in one of the city’s stylish neighbourhoods – the scene is set in downtown Dhobi Ghat, which is often referred to as the city’s ‘washing machine’. The women gathered here are from the underprivileged parts of the neighbourhood, and are part of a ‘Pregnancy Club’. The club is a small initiative of the Foundation for Mother and Child Health India (FMCH), which helps mothers and children suffering from malnourishment. FMCH addresses three broad areas – health, nutrition and child development – in this poverty-stricken community. The concept of FMCH was borrowed from Jakarta, where a ‘foundation for healthy under-fives’ was founded by two

British nurses in 2001. An Indian volunteer, Leena DeubetGodiwala, brought the idea to Mumbai’ slums – and started out with an ‘early learning centre’, where health and hygiene was part of the curriculum. It was found that tackling the issue of health would have to start with malnourishment, which was rampant among the mothers and children of the community. This led to the establishment of FMCH India in 2011, with the goal of raising awareness about nutrition and health among the community. What started out with 100 families in one area of Mumbai has now grown to three clinics that reach out to over 2,400 mothers and children. Operating mainly in the Dhobi Ghat area of Mumbai, FMCH reaches out to beneficiaries through grassroots workers, who are selected from the neighbourhood. The field officers encourage mothers to come to the centre for regular checkups for themselves and their children. Volunteers and

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July 2014

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professionals are employed to provide necessary services to the patients. Malnourishment has to be identified and addressed at pregnancy – the most important stage for tackling the issue, says Rinske Bloemendal, Executive Council member of FMCH. “Pregnancy clubs ensure that nutritionists talk to mothers about what foods they need consume to have a healthy child. Cookery classes help them get an idea of nutritious meals that are within their reach,” she explains. Doctors who work here are also given training on the special needs of the children they will be working with. The FMCH clinics offer a complete range of health services, including monthly check-ups, screening for common ailments such as anaemia and TB, and essential vaccinations. Free vitamin supplements and nutribars (formulated by FMCH) are given to boost immunity. Records of the children and their mothers are maintained by the Foundation to help track the children’s mental and physical growth. Full-time field workers and nutritionists counsel parents and families on how to bring up a healthy child, and children over five years old are advised on what foods are good for them. To ensure the parents’ commitment, FMCH charges a nominal annual fee per child. Field activities such as health melas and street theatre are held regularly to spread the awareness of the need for nutrition. Month after month, the Foundation sees the fruit of its perseverance in the children – from the rise in their height and weight. As Rinske says, “It feels great that the system actually works and it’s even better to see healthy, well fed children at the centre!” 1 5 For more information on volunteering, donating and supporting, please visit their website: www.fmch-india.org.

Best for July & August: Sri Lanka's Cultural Triangle with a beach break at Trincomallee

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July 2014

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Festival of the month

Photo: Aurelie Marsan, France Photo: Culturama Archives

Guru Purnima July 12

Ramzan July 29

Guru Purnima is celebrated by Hindus and Buddhists in India in honour of their guru or teacher. For Hindus, it is believed that this was also the birthday of Sage Vyasa (author of the Hindu epic Mahabharata, and regarded as one of the greatest teacher of all times). Buddhists believe that Lord Buddha gave his first sermon as a teacher on Guru Purnima. Hence, on this day, students pay respects to their teachers – be it in academics or the arts.

One of the five mandatory beliefs of Islam includes fasting during Ramzan, the holy month when the Quran was revealed. Muslims follow the lunar calendar, and the sighting of the moon marks the start of the month of Ramzan. Followers fast for 30 days, from dawn to dusk, as a mark of self respect, to focus on God and cleanse their soul. At the end of each day, special prayers are held to mark the breaking of the fast. At the end of the month, grand prayers and a final conclusion of fasting – Id-Ul-Fitr – is celebrated.

3 Visit the Sivananda Ashram in Rishikesh, where this occasion is celebrated in a grand manner.

3 Take part in the iftar or feasts that are held at the break of each day’s fast. Ramzan is also a time when charity in different forms is practised by Muslims.

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July 2014

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In the Rig Veda, dated conservatively to 1500 BCE, a poet-sage wonders, “What came first? What existed before the first?” Thus he travels, not physically but mentally, and explores new worlds. Ramana Maharshi, a 20th century mystic, reflects this sentiment when he said that, from his abode in Arunachalam, he travelled the world. Travel then is not just physical from one place to another, but also mental from one thought to another. The outer journey made sense only when it was accompanied by an inner journey, at least to the rishis, the poet-sages of India, whose hymns make up the venerated Vedas. They were the seers: those who saw what no one else saw. We do know that the rishis travelled a lot: they travelled east from the banks of the river Saraswati to the banks to the river Ganga in the west, when the former dried up; their songs celebrating that once grand river are found in the Vedas. They travelled south from the Gangetic plains to the river valleys of Godavari and Kaveri, as we learn from the stories of Agastya and Ram, in the epic Ramayana. They were the first explorers. But they did not travel to conquer; they sought to understand the human condition. In the epic Mahabharata, when the Pandavas are exiled, they are told to follow the path of the rishis, visit holy places, talk to sages and strangers, so as to expand the mind.

Expanding the mind is a constant theme of the Vedas. The hymns constantly evoke the brahman, meaning ‘the great’ or ‘the expanded one’. Eventually the word came to mean God. The term ‘brahman’ comes from the Sanskrit roots brah, meaning to expand, and manas, meaning the mind. Brahman then is one of infinitely expanded mind. The brahmin (before it became infamous) referred to that which enables expansion of the mind. It referred to the scriptures that explained mind-expanding rituals, as well as the men who memorised the scripture and the details of the ritual. The ritual called the yagna was a journey that enabled the performer to travel to the realm of the gods, the realm of ideas, and experience ecstasy and immortality that was in short supply in the mundane world. It was perhaps what we now call an adrenaline rush! That is why the hymns simultaneously refer to the stars and the rivers and the forests, as well as to the mind and the senses and the heart. The divide between the physical and mental is so subtle that interpreters are not sure if the Vedic hymns refer to the mundane world or to the metaphysical world. Perhaps they referred to both: as one travelled from place to place, one also travelled from thought to thought. Destination of the long journey over highways, rituals, trade routes and pilgrim trails then was also enlightenment. 1

Published on 30th June, 2013 in Mid-day. Reprinted with permission from www.devdutt.com

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July 2014

Myth & Mythology by Devdutt Pattanaik

Going from Thought to Thought

1 Travel is not just a physical journey, but also a mental one â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from one thought to another. The outer journey makes sense only when it is accompanied by an inner journey

Photo: Deborah Miller, USA

July 2014

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5 Join Us Every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments.com. If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

Holistic living by Eknath Easwaran

The Bounds of Desire 1 Once we have tasted the freedom of juggling our personal preferences at will, we can face whatever comes to us calmly and courageously

We can get so caught up in our subtle maze of likes and dislikes that we temporarily lose our sense of direction. We tell ourselves, “I like this, so I do it. I don’t like that, so I don’t bother with it. What other basis is there for making a decision?” What we really mean is, “I’m in a car that turns of its own accord. I can’t help going after things I like, and I can’t help avoiding things I dislike.” We have only to look at ourselves with detachment to see how much of our daily routine amounts to little more than going round and round in the same old circles. There is real truth to an old saying: “The immature person does what he likes; the mature person likes what he does.” In the newspaper recently, three or four persons on the street were asked what quality they most admired in a friend. I would have liked to surprise the interviewer by saying, “Flexibility in likes and dislikes.” Its beneficial effects are immediate and wide-ranging: on our health, because it gives us a shield against stress; on our emotional stability, because now we hold the steering wheel in our own hands; on our relationships, because on most issues we can give easily, without rancor. Flexibility can be practiced everywhere, starting with food. My friend

Brian, who wrote the nutrition section of The New Laurel’s Kitchen, once told me that the thorniest problem in the field of human nutrition is helping people to change their eating habits. Even when they know their health demands it, change is almost impossible, simply because likes and dislikes about food can be so rigid. One of the first things I learned from Mahatma Gandhi was that training the palate is a powerful aid in training the mind. The reason is simple: you get at the mind through the senses, and taste is a double sense. Ask a gourmet: when something appeals to the palate, flavour and aroma are combined. So for those who want the taste of freedom, I am going to make a rather unpleasant suggestion. When you have the opportunity to eat some special delicacy that you like very much, choose instead to ask for something nourishing that you don’t particularly enjoy. Try it: you won’t like it. At first it may make your skin crawl. Then why do I suggest it? Because even two or three experiments like this bring a heady sense of self-mastery. If you get hooked, you will see for yourself how much freer your life becomes. Every day brings opportunities to practice this, as I can illustrate with another personal example. In

July 2014

Photo: Douglas Vanherpe, Belgium

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India, as you may know, we use many kinds of vegetables in curries, but we generally don’t serve vegetables raw. A tossed green salad is just a pile of leaves to us, and the only people in India who eat leaves are characters in our ancient epics who have been exiled to a forest or have taken vows of mortification. When I came to this country, consequently, I had some difficulty in taking to salads. My body needed their nourishment, but my mind did not understand that; I had to teach it. Today I probably eat more salad than half a dozen of you together, and I enjoy it immensely. You can juggle with likes and dislikes about work in the same way. Whatever the job, all of us feel a natural desire to work at what we like, in the manner we like, with the people we like, and at the times we like. This happens so quietly that we seldom notice that our little preferences are making choices for us. Only as my meditation deepened did I begin to see that I was drifting toward doing things I liked and away from doing things I didn’t like, without my even being aware of what was happening. Discrimination dawned with the insight that I was rarely acting in freedom. Juggling with likes and dislikes, then, is

much more than learning to be flexible about the relative merits of foods or jobs or people. The real issue is freedom. Life has only contempt for people who say, “Please give me two things I like today: one in the morning, preferably just before lunch, and another about midway through the afternoon, when I start to get irritable . . . Oh, and please remember to keep everything I dislike at a convenient distance.” This is panhandling, and we usually get what we deserve – disappointment, with a capital ‘D’. We can learn to say to life, “It doesn’t matter what you bring today. If you bring something pleasant, I will flourish; if you bring something unpleasant, I will still flourish.” Once we have tasted the freedom of juggling at will with our personal preferences, we can face whatever comes to us calmly and courageously, knowing we have the flexibility to weather any storm gracefully. This is living in freedom, the ultimate goal of training the mind. 1 Reprinted with permission from ‘The Juggler’, an article by Eknath Easwaran from The Blue Mountain Journal. Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971, www.easwaran.org. (Extract from http://www.easwaran.org/the-juggler.html)

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Photo: Ninna Høgedal, Denmark

Realty Bytes by Anita Krishnaswamy

Water, Water, Everywhere… For all those niggling questions you might have on housing and realty in India, write to anita@globaladjustments.com

Hot and cold water: Running hot water is available only for bathing purposes, and this is provided by the house owners. There is no common heating system provided unless it is specifically asked for at the time of building. If you need running hot water in the kitchen, you have to install a small heater so that you can get running hot water in the sink. Purification systems: Reverse osmosis (RO) and other similar water purification systems can be fitted in parts of the water line or under the sink, so that the water is treated before it comes out through the tap. There are also water dispensers where you could install purifiers, and non-electrical systems available.

I am advised that water for drinking and cooking is different from that used for washing and other purposes. Why is that so? Here is a little background about the water situation in India, which will make you appreciate the answer. The concept of water in India is different from the rest of the world. Potable water may not be available as running water in Indian homes. Due to high levels of pollution, segregating water for different purposes is inevitable. When houses are constructed, a well may be dug and water drawn from there. If there is little or no water up to 20 feet, the builder digs deeper by using a drilling machine, and installs a ‘borewell’. Most residential complexes and individual houses will have arrangements for water for that plot or complex – either as a well, borewell or storage tanks. Ground water collected in these storage areas cannot be directly consumed by humans. The water in the borewell or well is used for washing and gardening. In some places, this water is so ‘hard’ (it has many minerals in it) that it can’t even be used for washing clothes. (In many metros and developed areas, the water is good.) If so, you would have to rely on the Government’s water supply. Water distribution is primarily a function of the Government of India, though private agencies operate at a very small level. In most developed cities, Metro Water (water supplied by the Government) is available. Pipes are laid and water flowed to individual homes or apartment complexes through them. However, the water needs treatment prior to consumption. Newer buildings have treatment plants built within them. The processes of heating, filtering and cooling, to kill/ remove different viruses and impurities, and make it potable are also done by private service providers, such as Tata Water, Aquafina, Bisleri or Kent. After the treatments are done, the water is distributed in sealed bottles or big bubbles and is suitable for direct consumption. 1

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Postcard from India ing along ful early morn ti au be a as w This anasi, the e Ganges in Var th of s at gh e th e beautiful ty. The sun mad holy Hindu ci on the ddish patterns orange and re ntion. tracted my atte at at th gs n di buil ith hardly surrounding w e n re se a as w It up and le were waking any noise; peop i is very water. Varanas heading to the e not when there ar peaceful in May gh. It is ts. It is hot thou so many touris nts bathing e the inhabita amazing to se the Ganges. and praying in an-de Bruin, â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Cara Louwm nds The Netherla

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