June 2012 Issue by Rohini Manian

culturama | may 2012

dear Readers

Photo: G Venket Ram

2 0 PEOPLE always ask me the story behind the genesis of Culturama. And every time, I wonder which story is the right one to pick. Was it when Joanne Grady Huskey and I started our company, Global Adjustments, in our endeavour to build cultural bridges to create empowered global citizens? Was it when an expat spouse mentioned during our orientation session how there was nothing to do in India? Or was it when we saw the American Consulate’s calendar of events and thought to ourselves, ‘Why can’t we make one too’? I would have to say it is a mix of all that. The company’s vision of the importance of cultural understanding that is universally acknowledged today is the foundation of this magazine. The client’s requirement was the impetus, and the Consulate’s brochure our inspiration. Somewhere along the way, Culturama has become such an intrinsic part of Global Adjustments’ ideology that we now see its role as an important facilitator of this bridge building. Today, as we proudly place before you 200 images of India with insightful interpretations in this collector’s edition, we highlight the timelessness of a 5,000-year-old civilisation that carries the wisdom of peace through culture in its heart. Divided into sections that follow the same categorisation of our Annual Expatriate Photo Competition, where thousands of photographs on the theme of Beautiful India are submitted year after year, we celebrate the universality of Indian diversity. We present 40 photos in each of these categories, handpicked by our advisory board members: ‘Faces’ has been introduced by N. Ram, the former Editor-in-Chief of The Hindu, India’s national newspaper since 1878, who speaks insightfully of the “ordinary Indian”; ‘Culture & Festivals’ by Marina Marangos, a Greek-Cypriot and spouse of the UN Agency Chief in New Delhi, evokes the inescapable adventure of it all; ‘Places’ is by intrepid traveller, Elaine Wood, former Mumbai expatriate, now residing in Sydney; ‘Unique India’ has been prefaced by acclaimed photographer G Venket Ram; and finally, ‘Into India’ has stunning images of the visitor immersed in India, warmly explained from Edinburg by Suzanne McNeill, who spent a decade in India. We also wish to make a pledge here. We intend that future editions of Culturama tell stories of Thought Leaders formed by the Corporate Consortium, which has joined together to share a common belief that cultural bridges are bottom-line business imperatives. Companies such as Larsen & Toubro, India’s largest infrastructure company, and Sulekha.com, the largest Internet portal for NRIs, have joined hands to promote our work in Culturama. We thank them for this encouragement and for the joint effort to co-create the future of global citizens. Warm regards and much gratitude to our readers, advertisers, contributors, and the team at Global Adjustments for making this landmark issue possible…I certainly didn’t think this day would come when, 17 years ago, we printed this magazine at a colleague’s home printer! Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief globalindian@globaladjustments.com

Celebrate the 200th issue of Culturama with a special gift to all our readers – a set of four Postcards showcasing different facets of India with this issue. Do post your comments and feedback on our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/CulturamaMagazine

culturama | June 2012

contents CULTURAMA’S advisory board member, acclaimed photographer G Venket Ram, creates a stunning cover design for the 200th issue of Culturama that features 200 images of the country. The camera is ready and poised to capture India in all her glory, and in her welcoming embrace for the expatriate community. Filled with the colours and motifs that typify India, this camera is our tribute to a magazine that connects India to the world through her images and stories, 200 times over. Cover Conceptualisation: G Venket Ram Graphics: Disha A Shah www.gvenketram.com

Editor-in-Chief

Ranjini Manian

business head tiia vaataja Consultant Editor praveena shivram Assistant Editor

vatsalya janani

creative head

JayaKrishna Behera

Associate Designer

Prem Kumar

Advertising Chennai trishla jain Bengaluru mukundan T Delhi-NCR

Preeti Bindra, Ruchika Srivastava

Mumbai & Pune

Vijaya subramaniam

Advisory Committee

N Ram, Elaine Wood, G Venket Ram, Marina Marangos,

Suzanne Mcneill

Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R. A. Puram, Chennai 600028, India. Telefax. +91-44-24617902 E-mail: culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 216, Prestige Center Point, Off Cunningham Road, 7, Edward Road, Bengaluru 560052. Tel.+91-80-41267152/41148540. E-mail: culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon - 122 002. Haryana. Tel.+91-124-435 4236. E-mail: del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai/Pune Rustom Court, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai 400030. Tel.+91-22-66104191/2 E-mail: mum@globaladjustments.com Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028 and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032. Editor: Ranjini Manian

13 Faces

From the colour of our skin to facial features, India’s faces abound with stories of the country’s diversity. By Susan Philip

24 Places

Snow-capped mountains, arid deserts, intricately carved temples, forts and palaces, and much more, define India’s topography. By saritha rao

36 Photo Feature

Co-founder of Global Adjustments takes us down Culturama’s memory lane.

38 culturama timeline

Take a look at the company’s and magazine’s timeline, along with the changes some of Culturama’s popular articles have undergone with time.

44 Culture & Festivals

India is synonymous with her culture and festivals, where every ritual, tradition and custom is steeped in the ancient history of this country. By Susan Philip

56 Into India

If India is a diverse country, then so are the expat experiences of India, each a testimony for their enthusiasm to immerse themselves in India. By praveena shivram

68 Unique India

culturama | may 2012

From the quirky to the ludicrous to the gratifying to the matchless, every image in this category is truly a ‘this-happensonly-in-India’ phenomenon. By praveena shivram

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Connecting India

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FACES An introduction by N Ram, Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, and former Editor-in-Chief of The Hindu

FACES, an interesting category of 40 selected images from an archival trove of about 10,000 photographs, speaks to the reality as well as the idea of India. And the faces presented here tell an intriguing tale: of an ancient historical civilisation and a gigantic land that has, for millennia, been recognised as an exemplar of diversity and pluralism, of individualism as well as regimented social behaviour, of dogged conservatism as well as dynamic change, of stagnation as well as creative bursts of energy. R.K. Narayan, in his introduction to Malgudi Days, a collection of some of his finest short stories, conveys this essence of India as a society unerringly: ‘The material available to a story writer in India is limitless. Within a broad climate of inherited culture there are endless variations: every individual differs from every other individual, not only economically but in outlook, habits and day-to-day philosophy. It is stimulating to live in a society that is not standardised or mechanised, and is free from

monotony. Under such conditions the writer has only to look out of the window to pick up a character (and thereby a story).’ So too the photographer, professional or amateur, it seems. Layers of history have been piled up or superimposed, one upon another, and the photographed faces, through their subtle socio-economic meanings and their ethnic, class, caste, and cultural markers, reflect that. They also denote, in a somewhat intriguing way, a phenomenon known to the world at large as Rising India. Remember the long season of exuberant celebration round the world of that phenomenon alongside the parallel and even more dizzying rise of China? And now are we not into the Season of Flak, where a weakened and troubled economy, a tumbling rupee, prodigious and seemingly uncontrollable corruption, and strange, if not bizarre, political styles feature regularly in the international news media? The faces are emblematic of a country that forever seems to attract mixed reviews: wild euphoria as well as exaggerated denigration. The reality of India is surely somewhere in the middle, essentially because the people and the democratic institutions of this country are resilient and have hidden depths and reserves. It is hard even to judge how representative the 40 selected faces (which include a hyper-alert, perhaps quizzical, and enchanting face of a tiger in its prime and a striking close-up of a camel) are of the vast trove of ‘amateur’ pictures that Global Adjustments and its founder and driving force, Ranjini Manian, have accumulated over 14 years of holding photo competitions. But they tell us plenty about the living idea and reality of India. They tell about demographically young India, about India’s diverse regions, ethnicities, religions, languages, castes, about progress but also stasis. These amateur photographers, who are mostly either members of ‘expatriate families relocating to India or Indian business professionals working in a global environment’ and have therefore been drawn into association with Global Adjustments as a much-appreciated cross-cultural destination services company, have done the annual competitions, one of which I had the pleasure of judging several years ago, proud. They handle the themes and the faces with notable sensitivity. By and large, the images speak to a keen, curious, empathetic, unselfconscious eye. And, to the credit of the photographers and their curator, Ranjini, most of these interesting faces are of ordinary Indians.

“Congratulations on the 200th issue of Culturama! The publication successfully bridges global communities and facilitates expatriates to smoothly integrate with local culture and traditions. Keep up the good work.” — Shinya Fujii, Director General, JETRO Chennai 12

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Heads Up! These tribal men of Nagaland, complete with traditional headgear adorned with menacing horns, probably tokens of the prey they’ve brought down, are awaiting the start of a cultural event. India is replete with ethnic groups, each with its distinctive clothing and traditions. PHOTO: Victoria Wlaka, UK

Let’s Dance! Transgenders, like this one, perform on auspicious occasions, as they’re believed to have the power to grant boons (or curse, if they’re not properly treated). They even have their own deity, Aravan or Kuttantavar, and an annual gathering in Tamil Nadu for a festival at the temple dedicated to him draws a large number of transgenders. PHOTO: Ian Watkinson, UK

Man of War: The handlebar moustache, flowing beard and headgear are typical of the menfolk of western India. The scabbard and other accoutrements signify his social standing. The men of Rajasthan are renowned for their bravery and die-hard spirit. PHOTO: Thorsten Vieth, GermanY

In Glowing Looks: This clear-eyed little girl is wearing the vibrant colours that are customarily worn by the desert people of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Her multiple earrings are a part of her ethnic culture, but they’re also now a fashion statement throughout India. PHOTO: Tineke Sysmans, Belgium

Cheers! Teashops are ubiquitous in India. Travel along any road, urban, rural or deep interior, in any part of the country, and you’ll come across these little wayside lean-tos, selling a rich brew, often flavoured with spices such as cardamom and ginger. It is also common practice to pour hot tea on to a saucer and drink it as a cooling method. PHOTO: Ian Watkinson, UK

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King & I: The Bengal Tiger is India’s national animal. Majestic in its beauty, there are now many reserves devoted to this diminishing species. Sighting a tiger in the wild is a thrill such as no other. PHOTO: Tammy R, USA

Fan Club! These schoolboys pose for the camera with a hand-made poster proclaiming their love for their motherland. If you watch an International cricket match in India, you’ll see plenty of such banners being waved from the stands. PHOTO: Ron Potisk, USA

Say Cheese! Camels are common modes of transport in the interiors of Rajasthan. Time was when a man’s wealth was tallied by the size of his herd. Even now, fairs are held regularly, most popular being the Pushkar Camel Fair in Rajasthan, where these ships of the desert are bought and sold. PHOTO: Secondo Balducci, Italy,

Smile Please! Many Muslim families consider it mandatory for their girls, even as young as this one, to cover their heads in public places. Many Hindu women too follow the custom of covering their heads, as a mark of respect to elders. India’s Christian communities also follow the tradition of women covering their hair during worship services. PHOTO: Rhodius Brigitte, USA

Catching them Young: Brahmin priests have their heads tonsured in a distinctive style, with the tuft on the head as a symbol of giving up distractions and focusing on spiritual connections. Young boys are initiated into spiritual knowledge at the ‘thread ceremony’, and taught the scriptures and the complex rituals that go into temple worship. PHOTO: Sabina Panday, USA 14

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E x t r e m e Precautions: The Jains are members of a religious community who believe strongly in the principles of non-violence and the sanctity of life – even forms invisible to the naked eye. The white ‘masks’ these women sport are to prevent them from accidentally breathing in and killing microbes. PHOTO competition 2001

Chasing away the Blues: Natural dyes produce the rich shades of scarlet, indigo and flaming pink so beloved of the desert people of India – probably an unconscious attempt to brighten up the drabness of the scenery. The beaten silver jewellery this happy woman sports is typical too. PHOTO: Philip James Clegg, UK

For God’s Sake: Mendicants are a common sight in India. Many of them sport saffron, and the mandatory ‘rudraksha’ beads, which legend describes as the tears of Lord Shiva, made from the seeds of the rudraksha tree. The crescent-shaped symbol seen on his forehead is a reminder for the impermanence of life. PHOTO: Paul Fejer, UK

Rites of Passage: This young Sikh offers his prayers in the holy lake around the Golden Temple. The mini orange turban called phatka, symbolises selflessness, while the kirpan or ceremonial dagger tied to his turban stands for “compassion, honour and mercy”. The kirpan is one of the five Ks of Sikhism, the others being Kesh (uncut hair), Kanga (wooden comb), Kara (metal bracelet) and Kachera (cotton shorts). PHOTO: Ninna Marie Hogedal, Denmark

Life Lines: Long exposure to an unforgiving sun, and a lifetime spent staring across undulating desert sands seem to have carved these lines on the face of this man, part of a troupe of Rajasthani musicians. PHOTO: Benjamin Bowling, USA

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To Dye For: Tie and dye or ‘bandhini’, that this turban is made of, is a textile art form practiced in many parts of India. Rajasthan in western India, where this man hails from, is one of these. Madurai, in the South, is another. PHOTO: Neil Simons, UK

Cap This! The white cap this old-timer is wearing was once the insignia of Freedom Fighters, the Congress Party in particular. It is also known as the Gandhi cap because Mahatma Gandhi, who spearheaded the Independence Movement, popularised it. It is peaked both at the front and back, and was traditionally made of Khadi or homespun. PHOTO: Ian Watkinson, UK

Music Man: This Rajasthani singer, with his typical stringed instrument called ‘chikara’, is an example of the importance of music in India’s cultural and religious life. Traditional songs speak of history and values, of gods and man, of love and pain. Instruments such as the Veena, the Sitar, the Dholak and the Jal Tarang are uniquely Indian. PHOTO: Mike Eliseou, UK

Prayerfully Yours: These monks, wearing traditional headgear and robes, are only one facet of the religiosity that pervades India. Prayer and ritual play an important role in life here. Recently, the Dalai Lama, spiritual head of the Tibetans, described India as an ideal place to live in secular harmony. PHOTO: Nathalie Quadranti, Switzerland Colour Coded: This artiste is an exponent of Kathakali, an intricate form of dance theatre from the southernmost Indian state – Kerala. The mask is painted in symbolic colours that give the audience a clue to the character’s nature and standing. Green signifies the ‘hero’. PHOTO: Martijn Kleverlaan, The Netherlands 16

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Pinned! The nose pin or ring is an auspicious sign of maturity and marriage for women in many communities. The design varies with the region. Some are elaborate, like this one, but even a single stone will pass muster in others. In modern times, tradition has become a fashion accessory. PHOTO: Lucas Graf, USA

Sitting Pretty: This little boy, wearing pyjama-kurta and a fez, is probably manning his family’s clothes store while the elders are taking a break. The mannequins display embroidered material that can be made up into salwar-kurtas, mainly worn by the women of northern India at one time, but now popular throughout the country. PHOTO: James J Williams, UK

Beating the Heat: These women are savouring their kulfis – unique Indian ice-cream made with fresh, thickened milk and sugar, and flavoured with cardamom, rose water, saffron or pistachio. Traditionally made at home by slow cooking, the kulfi, like so much else, has become a product of mechanisation. You now get branded, packaged varieties. PHOTO: Leisha John, UK

Getting an Earful: Earrings are part and parcel of a woman’s adornment in India. Some, like the ones worn by this tribal woman, are so heavy that they drag the earlobes down in great hoops. Special ear-piercing ceremonies are held by some communities as well. PHOTO: Liz Tunnel, UK

Masked Man: Folk theatre is popular throughout India. Masks and elaborate costumes like the one sported by the man in this picture are essential ingredients in the highly stylised performances, woven around myth, legend and tales from the evergreen epics – Ramayana and Mahabharata. PHOTO: Isabelle Bassel, USA culturama | June 2012

The Sisterhood: Each region of India has ethnic groups with distinctive features and modes of dress. These young girls from the North-east seem to be enjoying a break from their labours on the farm. The ubiquitous cellphone is a silent reminder of India’s growing market, with an estimated 10 million mobile lines added every month! PHOTO: Ann Cambier, UK

The Mark of a Man: Caste marks on the forehead mean a lot. This young man has a ‘v’ made with sacred ash, running down to his nose, with a vermillion line in the centre. It marks him for a Vaishnavite, a Brahmin sect. Other sects wear horizontal lines, while some simply have a streak of vermillion. PHOTO: Hari Prasanth Sadagopan, Canada

Giving it in Writing: Prayer banners are common in Buddhism, one of the religions that originated in India. Boys as young as these are initiated into monkhood and the teachings of Siddhartha, the Prince who found enlightenment under a Peepal tree and became known as The Buddha. PHOTO cometition 2005 World View: This little boy looks out on the world with khol-dark eyes, safe in the knowledge that his mother is keeping a protective hold on him. The khol is not just a cosmetic, when hand-made to age-old recipes; it’s a soothing salve to the eye. PHOTO: Magali Reynaud, France

Tea Time: The rolling hills of the North-eastern States and the slopes of the Eastern and Western Ghats in the South offer fertile ground for tea plantations. Tea picking is a skill and this young woman obviously enjoys her job. PHOTO: Ingo Hofmaier, Germany 18

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Salaam Namaste! This particular style of salute is locally called ‘salaam’, an Urdu word for ‘peace’, commonly used in India by labourers as a mark of respect towards their employers. This culture is an echo of the earlier feudal system that existed in India and continues to exist in rural parts of the country. PHOTO competition 2004

Music to the Ears: This itinerant flute player seems to be competing with the racket of the ubiquitous ‘autorickshaw’, otherwise known as the ‘phut-phut’ because of its puttering noise. You can pack quite a few souls into this mode of transport, popular in urban and rural areas alike. PHOTO: Dave McTavish, Canada

Some Like it Hot: Beaches are highly popular relaxation spots right around the coastline of India. Vendors like these two laugh all the way to the bank after doing roaring business late into the evening selling hot ‘bhajis’ and other snacks to the teeming crowds who come to cool off on the sea shore. PHOTO: Dylan Sullivan, USA

The Little Prince: It is quite common in India to see children dressed as gods, either for celebration or to make a living. This little one is dressed as Lord Muruga, son of Lord Shiva, one of the Holy Trinity. Muruga is usually seen riding a peacock, India’s national bird, and carrying a spear called ‘vel’ in his hand. PHOTO: Elaine Ackrill, UK

Trigger Happy: This Tibetan Monk seems to be happy with the world! India has given refuge to the Dalai Lama and thousands of his followers. Dharmasala in the North is the Dalai Lama’s seat in exile. Many other places in the country, including Karnataka in the South, have Tibetan settlements. PHOTO: Dany Haim, USA

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Striking a Pose: Even deep in the wooded heart of India, there’s a sense of style and selfconfidence. This little fellow, on his way to the Pemayangste Monastery in Sikkim, epitomises it as he stands twirling his umbrella with studied nonchalance. PHOTO: Brian Jolley, USA

Sands of Time: A winner of the 2005 Faces category, this picture was shot outside a school for fisherfolk, two weeks after the devastating Tsunami hit the South Indian coast in 2004. The coastal community of India thrives along the Bay of Bengal in the east, the Indian Ocean in the south and the Arabian Ocean in the west. Fishing is their primary means of livelihood. PHOTO: Chirstopher Wurst, UK

Pulling Along: The rickshaw pullers of Kolkata continue to struggle for their identity, as the city grapples with whether to ban it on grounds of Human Rights, or retain it as a means of livelihood for the 6,000-odd pullers. With large wheels, a carriage and a yoke with long handles, these were once popular modes of transport. PHOTO: Brian Hinchcliff, UK

Telling Beads: Here’s a gypsy woman selling her wares at a market place. The colourful jewellery these nomadic people fashion from beads, lac and other simple materials are much in demand. In India as elsewhere, these groups have their own dialect and ethnic codes. They're also extremely adept with the catapult and slingshot. PHOTO: Alfredo de Braganza, Spain

Rain Proof! Making up in ingenuity what they may lack in mod-cons, the people in the rural depths of India use local stuff to make life comfortable for themselves. Take this couple’s effective rain gear for instance – the ‘umbrellas’ are hand-woven using plant material which is readily available. PHOTO: Aude Dussert, France 20

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Connecting India

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An introduction by Australian Elaine Wood, who anchored Culturama’s Travel series for over two years

RECENTLY, I was chatting to a friend in Australia about the best places we had visited. India was on her list. She said she’d been there once, to Rajasthan. She recalled the white marble of Ranakpur, chiselled to translucence, the gold sandstone lace of Jaisalmer, lightening the bulk of the fort, and the contrast between the jostling blue jumble of Jodhpur and the arid quietness of the desert landscape. Later in the conversation she mentioned the exhilaration of trekking in the mountains of Sikkim when the rhododendrons were in flower. “But, that’s also India,” I reminded her. “So it is,” she said, “somehow I never connect the two places, they’re so very different from one another.” Indeed, India is so full of contrast and variety that every place offers a new experience that can range from life changing to heartwarming to humourous.

Forts, palaces, ashrams, temples, spas, cities, remote villages, tropical islands, frozen rivers, holy lakes, arid deserts, mountains, lush jungles, soothing backwaters…. the catalogue is long. There’s a place that caters to every interest: history, culture, food, architecture, craftsmanship, spirituality, wildlife, trekking and scenery, rejuvenation, buzzing nightlife or rural tranquility and of course, photography everywhere. When we came to live in India, my husband didn’t own a camera. But after our first trip, which was to the Taj Mahal to celebrate our daughter’s thirteenth birthday, he bought one and hasn’t stopped clicking since. In ten years we took all our holidays in India, apart from home visits, and there are still many places on our wish list. It is the contrasts that are so compelling and surprising. Just 65 km from the beauty and sophistication of Agra’s tombs is the pristine Chambal River, a river with an ancient curse which means there are neither towns nor temples on its banks. Instead, muggers, gharials, and the occasional river dolphin as well as blackbuck and Sarus Cranes, the world’s tallest birds, live in an area that was once the hideout of dacoits like Phoolan Devi and her gang. And then there is the contrast between Mumbai’s hectic bazaars and the peaceful hills of the Sahyadris just a few hours’ drive away, where you can trek for days admiring the views and exploring ancient forts, seeing only a handful of people. Photographs speak with an eloquence unmatched by words, and they give one the opportunity to contemplate an otherwise fleeting scene. Images of so many memorable places come to mind. A monastery terrace in Ladakh overlooking the vast silence of rugged snow-topped mountains; cane chairs and bone china cups on the lawn of a colonial bungalow amidst the rolling green hills of manicured tea gardens; the quirky delights of Nek Chand’s bangle people in Chandigarh; the startlingly explicit beauty of Khajuraho’s stone lovers; a rhino, armour plated, materialising from the dawn mist in Kaziranga – these are but a few of such images. And, it is all India.

“Congratulations Culturama on 200 editions, always a wealth of information. Dancing, singing, or festivals you have it all covered. I look forward to many more issues.” — Sheila Bennett, Bengaluru

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Jaisalmer Fort, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan – If Granada’s Alhambra is named so because it is presumed to turn red at dusk, the yellow sandstone used to build the Jaisalmer Fort turns it a golden yellow. Hence the name, Sonar Kila (Golden Fort). The entire population of Jaisalmer was once encompassed within the walls of this fort built in the 12th century atop the Trikut Hill. Photo: Amore Marcello, Italy

Bhoganandishwara Temple, Bengaluru, Karnataka – The road from Bengaluru forks into two, one leading to Nandi Hills and the other, to this exquisite temple that few guidebooks write about. This temple was built by many dynasties and has remarkably well-preserved carvings for such an ancient temple. Photo: Anita Mamidi, Canada

Dal Lake, Srinagar, Jammu & Kashmir – Lounge lazily on the deck of a houseboat, or drift dreamily in a shikara (open boat) on the Dal Lake, and muse over Mughal Emperor Jahangir's proclamation when he set foot into Kashmir, 'If there is paradise here on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here.' Photo: Basia Kruzewska, USA

Brihadeeshwara Temple, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu – Built by the Chola emperor Raja Raja Chola in 1010, this temple in Thanjavur is considered the pinnacle of Chola architecture. The main tower, hewn out of a single granite piece, rises 200 feet. The temple turned 1,000 years old in 2010 and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Photo: Anneke SLENTERS, tHE NETHERLANDS

Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir – Explore the cold desert landscape of Ladakh, take in the Gompas (Buddhist monasteries), trek through a valley, take in the scenic beauty of Lamayure Road as in this picture, or indulge in a spot of white water rafting at Zanskar. Ladakh has something for every type of traveller. Photo: Brigitte Rhodius, UK

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Pareshnath Jain temple, Kolkata – Built by Ray Badridas Bahadur in 1867, the Jain Temple at Kolkata contains four shrines, markedly different in structure and design from each other. Although they are purely Indian, the aesthetic influence of Europe is evident in the tile and inlay work, stained glass panels, the statues and fountains in the garden and some very intricate metal grills. Photo: Dany Haim, USA

Krishna's Butter Ball, Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu – After marvelling at the Shore Temple, the Five Rathas and the stone monkey comically imitating a sage in the bas-relief called Arjuna's Penance, head a little ahead and marvel at the delicately-balanced boulder known popularly as Krishna's Butter Ball. It's not uncommon to see a few locals blissfully dozing in its shade at high noon! Photo: Dany Haim, USA

The Garden of Five Senses, Delhi – Meander through 20 acres of well-tended foliage, art installations, water bodies and fountains at the Garden of Five Senses, created in 2003 in an aim to provide an interactive and stimulating public space for the common man in Delhi. Don’t miss the wind chimes! Photo: Jade Kutzner, Singapore Charminar, Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh – Built by Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah in 1591, the Charminar (literally, Four Minarets) is considered the symbol of Hyderabad. The structure has four minarets at the corners and four arches between them. It is now a major intersection. Visitors can climb up to the first level and view the surrounding bazaars and mosques. Photo: Gottfried Sauer, UK

Meenakshi Amman Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu – In days of yore, Madurai was called 'Thoonga Nagaram' (The city that never sleeps). This is still much in evidence in Madurai's bustling bus stands, the adjoining shops and numerous eateries. Even the stuccos on the lofty towers of the Meenakshi Amman Temple are abuzz with kitschy colour and animated expression! Photo: Ercan Bekat, Turkey

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City Palace, Udaipur, Rajasthan – Originally built by Maharana Udai Singh in 1553, the complex has lofty archways, ornate balconies and resplendent halls built in both Mughal and Rajput architectural styles. It’s not hard to imagine why much of the Bond thriller, Octopussy, was picturised here. There is history in the bylanes and tales of valour in the palaces. Photo: Kerstin Vieth, Germany

Gwalior Fort, Gwalior, Madhya Pradesh – While the Gwalior Fort is presumed to be the site where the Mughal Emperor, Aurangzeb, ordered the execution of his brother, Murad, there is also the romantic story of King Maan Singh Tomar, who fell in love with a village girl from the Gujar community called Mriganayani. It was here that Tansen also began his journey to being a great composer of Hindustani music. Photo: John McNeill, UK

Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh – The venerable rubs shoulders with the worldly in the pilgrim centres of India, and it is most evident in one of the holiest of Indian cities, Varanasi. Experience the piety by taking a boat ride along the Ganga and watch the juxtaposition of life and death on the many bathing and cremation ghats (paved river banks with steps to access the river). Photo: Lucia Nodari, Italy Kerala – If your idea of paradise was a tropical lagoon with coconut trees and drifting boats, then the backwaters of Kerala are for you. The Kettuvellam boats, originally used for transporting agricultural produce, have been converted to houseboats to enable tourism in the region. It is a wonderful way to experience life on these waterways, where much of the local trade takes place. Photo: Lucas Graf, USA

Victoria Memorial, Kolkata, West Bengal – Conceived by Lord Curzon as a tribute to Queen Victoria, this majestic building was completed in 1921. A 16-feet-high statue called ‘The Angel of Victory’ made in Italy stands atop the dome. The must-sees at the museum are 'Company Drawings' of natural history, the Calcutta Gallery and paintings depicting Indian landscapes. Photo: Michele Bosciano, Italy culturama | June 2012

Hampi, Karnataka – Established by the powerful Vijayanagar kings, Hampi is a leap back in time. The Vittal temple and the Hazaara Rama temple with their carvings, the intricate frescoes on the ceiling of the Coronation Pavilion at the Virupaksha Temple, each with its own history. Little remains of the Royal Centre, but what stands, is evidence of a prosperous and gracious period in Indian history. Photo: martijn kleverlaan, the netherlands

Chandra Valley, Himachal Pradesh – The Chandra Valley offers breathtaking vistas for the intrepid traveller, giving you a slice of the Himalayan beauty. Trek along the Chandra River and feast your eyes on the sights that unfold en route to Lake Chandra Tal. Photo: Philip James Clegg, UK

The Golden Temple, Amritsar, Punjab – There is an air of tranquility at Harmandir Sahib, more famously known as the Golden Temple in Amritsar. The spiritual seat of the Sikh community of Punjab, the temple houses the Guru Granth Sahib, the holy text of the community. The valorous Maharaja Ranjit Singh is known to have financed the gold plating of the resplendent dome. Photo: masha bindra, denmark

Udhagamandalam, Tamil Nadu – Also known as Ootacamund or Ooty, this bustling hill town was originally home to a tribal community called the Todas. Some of their huts can still be seen. Do traipse off to nearby Coonoor for a more ecologically pristine experience. Visit the tea estates and the factories. Anneke slenters, The Netherlands

Mysore Palace, Mysore, Karnataka – The seat of the Wodeyar dynasty, the Mysore Palace was built on the site of earlier royal residences that were damaged many times over. It was reconstructed on the basis of the design by British architect, Henry Irwin, in the IndoSaracenic style in 1912. During the spectacular 10-day Dussehra festival in September/ October, the Palace and the city come vibrantly alive. Photo: paul fejer, uk

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Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, Rajasthan – Built in 1799, the facade of the five-storeyed Hawa Mahal is a honeycomb of jharokhas (decorated windows) providing views of the street below and even the city. The name, Hawa Mahal, literally means 'Palace of the Winds' and it lives up to its name, channeling cool winds that are a respite from the ferocity of the desert sun in summer. PHOTO: Rhodius Saudruio, italy

Jodhpur, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh – Built by the Chandela Rajputs, the Khajuraho temples are known the world over for their erotic sculpture. However, there's so much more in terms of religious imagery and scenes from everyday life of those times, that it is missed in the flurry to see 'those' statues. Do stay on for the Son-et-lumiere show in the evening. PHOTO: Sheila Bennett, USA

The Taj Mahal, Agra, Uttar Pradesh – Anything that has to be said about the Taj Mahal has perhaps already been said. Maybe all these adjectives are man's attempt at describing such an awe-inspiring vision in mere words. Do get across to the Agra Fort to view the Taj Mahal from the Musamman Burj as Shah Jahan did in his last days. It's even more spectacular. PHOTO: benjamin bowling,

Jodhpur, Rajasthan – Much like the white-washed houses of Santorini, the houses of Jodhpur are uniformly painted – in a vibrant blue, contrasting with the arid desert landscape. Best seen from a vantage point on Mehrangarh Fort at dusk. PHOTO: Secondo Balducci, Italy,

Orchcha Palace, Madhya Pradesh – Orchha is the land of the Bundelas, a community of Rajput warriors, renowned for their great sense of aesthetics. The Jehangir Mahal is by far the most imposing of the structures, built in Mughal style to commemorate the victory of Mughal emperor, Jehangir over King Vir Singh Deo. PHOTO: Suzy McNeill, UK Gaganachukki Falls, Karnataka – Gaganachukki, along with Bharachukki and Sivanasamudra falls, form a thundering cascade of the Kaveri River down a cliff. Coracle (round boat) rides are sometimes available. PHOTO: Tana Dutkevicova, Slovakia

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E n c h e y Monastery, Gangtok, Sikkim – A short distance from Gangtok, this monastery is set in serene surroundings. Listen to the flapping of the many colourful prayer flags, or gaze at the magnificent Kanchendzonga range, or simply meditate on the meaning of life in this haven of tranquility. Photo: Yana Fetova, Ukraine Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu – Considered the southern-most tip of India, Kanyakumari sees the confluence of the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal. Take a boat ride up to the Vivekananda Rock and admire the lofty statue, more recently constructed, of Thiruvalluvar, the revered poet-saint of Tamil Nadu. Photo: Thuy .T. Do, USA

Badami, Karnataka – Badami is home to some of the most exquisitely carved dwellings hewn from sheer rock. There are four caves depicting symbols of Vaishnavism (devotees of Lord Vishnu), Shaivism (devotees of Lord Shiva), Buddhism and Jainism. From the caves, there's a picturesque view of a pond called Agastya Theertha, with a temple nestled on its banks. Photo: Tineke Sysmans, Belgium

Thar Desert, Rajasthan – Considered the world’s ninth largest subtropical desert, the Thar Desert extends to the states of Haryana and Punjab in India, to Punjab and the Sindh province in Pakistan. It is also known as the Great Indian Desert and is home to the Bishnoi community, who consider nature conservation their religion. Photo: Damian Kelly, UK 30

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Qutab Minar, Delhi – Commenced by Qutab-ud-din Aibak and completed by his successor, Iltutmish, the Qutab Minar towers 237 feet, across five stories with fine engravings on them. Climbing the tower is not permitted. Nearby, the iron pillar is presumed to grant a wish if one could stand with the back against the pillar and encircle it with arms backwards. Try it. Photo: Mike Eliseou, UK

Jantar Mantar, Delhi – Created by Maharaja Jai Singh II of Jaipur between 1727 and 1734, the Jantar Mantar is a complex of architectural structures that are also yantras or jantras (instruments) of astronomy. There are four others of this kind, built by the Maharaja at Jaipur, Ujjain, Mathura and Varanasi. Photo: Mike Eliseou, UK

India Gate: Not to be confused with the Gateway of India in Mumbai, the India Gate is one of the national monuments of India, a relic of the British Raj. Designed by British architect, Sir Edwin Lutyens, also the architect of New Delhi and the Rashtrapathi Bhavan (Presidential House), India Gate was originally built as a memorial for Indian soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the Raj in World War I. Ricky Wong, USA

Palitana, Gujarat: The Jain temples atop the Shatrunjaya Hill near Palitana were built from the 11th century AD to the 16th century AD. The hill is considered holy by the Jain community. It is also here that you will find the tomb and the story of Angar Pir, a Sufi saint who is said to have dissuaded the Mughal emperor, Allauddin Khilji from attacking the Jain temple complex in 14th century AD. photo: Tineke Sysmans, Belgium

Andaman Islands, Andaman & Nicobar – In pre-independent India, Indian freedom fighters were incarcerated in solitary confinement at the Cellular Jail in Port Blair. This penal facility was also referred to as Kala Pani (Black Water). Today, the islands are renowned for spectacular marine life, and are also a great place to learn scuba diving and snorkelling. photo: Szolga Balazs, Hungary

Haridwar, Uttarakhand – This is where the River Ganges descends from the mountains and enters the Gangetic Plain. Do stop by at dusk across the river from the Har ki Pauri riverbank to see the evening prayer. During the Maha Kumbh Mela, to be held next in 2022, thousands of pilgrims congregate to take a ritual dip in the Ganges to wash away their sins. photo: Roopak Verma, USA

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Dansborg Fort, Tharangambadi, Tamil Nadu – A slice of Danish history on the Coromandel Coast, Tharangambadi (formerly known as Tranquebar) houses a fort and a museum. The fort was built in 1620 by Col. Ove Gedde, a commander in the Royal Danish Navy. Do look for the archway into the town constructed in 1792. Photo: Rod Hudson, UK

Shravanbelagola, Karnataka – The statue of Gomateshwara Bahubali stands 57 feet tall atop a hill, instilling piety in followers of the Jain faith. King Bahubali's story is of renunciation and rigorous penance. It is said that the great emperor, Chandragupta Maurya, retired to a life of penance here. It was a seat of Jain religion and culture even in the days of yore. Photo: Ran Levy, UK

Sun Temple, Konark, Odisha – The Sun Temple at Konark is designed like a colossal chariot, whose wheel is the most celebrated symbol of the temple. The temple venerates the Sun God, Surya, personified in three statues. Although now in ruins, the temple inspires a sense of awe at the grandeur of some of the intricate carvings, especially the erotic ones. Photo: Melissa Enderle, USA

Baga Beach, Goa – The former Portuguese colony of Goa is a wonderful amalgam of Indian and Portuguese influences. While Goa has an immense legacy of arts, architecture and cuisine, it’s the beaches that draw in the crowds. Beaches, such as Baga and Calangute, have shacks, food stalls, shops and sometimes, even facilities for water sports. Photo: Lucia Nodari, Italy 32

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Looking back

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Total Recall

Joanne Grady Huskey

The co-founder of Global Adjustments, which produces this magazine, Joanne Grady Huskey, reminisces about the early days of a magazine that began as a two-page events calendar!

WHEN I first moved to Chennai, I was one of only a dozen expatriates living in what was then Madras. Most of us Westerners didn’t have a clue as to the cultural options there were in Madras. Many of us had the absurd opinion that there was no cultural life in Madras at all. As far as understanding Bharatnatyam dance or Carnatic music was concerned, or knowing if there was a temple drama or music event to attend, we were literally left in the dark. Consequently, many expatriates at the time found Madras a bit dull and boring. Imagine, in India! In 1995, when Ranjini and I founded Global Adjustments, one of the first things we did was host an event around the South Indian doll festival of Navaratri. We invited foreigners to come and learn about the various Hindu goddesses and celebrate with tea. It was right after that we realised there was a need to publish a monthly magazine that showed Western readers the cultural events that were available in Chennai. We designed our first magazine and called it At A Glance, because the idea was to put all events in a calendar that gave one a quick overview of all the events of the month. This simple early version of Culturama opened up the world of Indian art, dance,

music, theatre, and cinema to the growing expatriate community in Chennai. After a while, it became the goto place for foreigners to find out what was happening around town, and At A Glance was posted on refrigerators in all expat homes. In later years, the magazine took on a professional style and expanded to include articles that delved into Indian culture and explained the mysterious and the interesting aspects of India to the foreign community. We also began producing city-specific versions of the magazine in the cities of Bengaluru, Delhi, and Mumbai, till it morphed into this national edition you hold in your hands today. And with time, we found that Culturama catered not just to the expatriate community but the global Indian as well, who turned to the magazine for its rich and interesting exposé of Indian culture in its pages. It keeps foreigners and Indians informed and aware of India and the unlimited experiences available to all who are open to them. So, congratulations to Ranjini and the terrific Culturama team on this 200th issue. You provide an invaluable service to all who want to dive deep into India and get the full cultural experience!

“Culturama has been a magnificent source of information and enlightenment about life in India, and I will treasure each and every issue of this magazine, wherever I go in the future.” — Carles Berruezo Domingo Spain 36

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“Culturama encourages people to aspire to become global leaders with the power to transform the world. Personally, Culturama had helped me understand and appreciate Indian culture and also to increase my network. — Giselle Nazareth de Garau, Brazil, Kalyani Gerdau

“Culturama is a good snapshot of the city and its happenings. It serves both for Indians looking outwards and an expat looking to make India his home. We wish the magazine all the best for its 200th issue.” — Viswanathan Anand (World Chess Champion) and Aruna Anand

“As expats living in New Delhi, we were especially excited to share one of our unique experiences in India of making paper from elephant poop and we enjoy the monthly news on what's happening all over India.” — Mari JenefskyTitus, Delhi

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CULTURAMA TIMELIN E A look at the transition of some of Culturama’s ever-popular columns

made to order 1998

1997 1995 Six months after Ranjini Manian and Joanne Grady Huskey establish Global Adjustments (GA), India’s first relocation and cross-cultural training company, a humble twopage calendar of events is launched, called ‘Culture…At A Glance’.

1996 RPG Cellular comes on board as the first advertiser for a princely sum of Rs. 5,000 to print 100 copies!

Calendar of Events 1996-2012

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The year that GA got its first major client in Ford Motor Company and began to train both sides to work with each other is when this calendar of events suddenly had a larger role to play of bridge building. Pages are increased to six, the newsletter is renamed ‘At A Glance’, it is printed in colour, and GA’s first Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Competition is launched, with an overwhelming 52 photographs! (In 2011, we received only 1,000 photographs). This was also the beginning of a symbiotic relationship between the magazine and the photo competitions. The earliest version of our ‘Interpretations’ column in a question–answer format, and the everpopular ‘Look Who’s In Town’ column begins. With GA’s Realty arm taking shape, the newsletter also began to feature property listings that continue till today.

The ‘Dear Readers’ column begins, along with writer and journalist Harry Miller’s humour column, ‘Harry’s Tales’, expat experiences in ‘An Experience in India’, and the beginnings of a food column, ‘Spice Trail’.

1999 The masthead now includes the tagline, “A cultural newsletter with a Chennai calendar of events”. Bulk distribution begins courtesy The Airports Authority of India, allowing copies of the newsletter to be placed at the Chennai airport.

Look Who's In Town 1997 - 2012

2000 Pages increase to eight and historian S. Muthiah’s ‘Once Upon A City’, a popular column that traced the heritage of Chennai begins.

2001 Pages increase to 12, a ‘Self Help from Hindu Philosophy’ column is included, advertising steadily increases.

Dear Readers 1998 -2012

2002 The masthead and pages get a new and professional look, and the template is retained till 2004. Pages steadily increase, and in 2004 it is at 22 pages. 2004 is also the year when the e-version of the magazine was launched.

2005 Then President APJ Abdul Kalam sends a letter of appreciation for the free service of promoting Indian culture and demystifying the same for expatriates moving into the country. That same year, the newsletter is transformed into a magazine with Riccardo Sitler, from DV8 Saatchi and Saatchi, as its designer. The magazine now has a cover, a new masthead, ‘At A Glance – Understanding India’ and a new tagline, ‘India’s only cultural magazine for expatriates’.

A letter of appreciation from then President, APJ Abdul Kalam

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2006 The other city editions are launched, starting with Bengaluru in 2006, Delhi and Mumbai/Pune in 2007.

2008 The magazine now becomes one national edition, distributed in the cities of Chennai, Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai and Pune. It stabilises at 76 to 80 pages.

2010 The magazine is registered with the Registrar of Newspapers of India and therefore renamed ‘Culturama’ as the RNI did not accept the phrase ‘At A Glance’.

2012 The year of the 200th issue and the year of many more to come!

2011 Culturama, always perfectly mirroring GA’s own journey, opens its doors to voices across the world and India, as the company now caters to the Global Citizen, and not just the expat community. The tagline now reads: ‘India’s only cultural magazine for Global Citizens’.

Tales of India 1996-2012

“Culturama is a contemporary magazine with very interesting subjects that help me understand "Indian cultural keys" and informs me about events in my city. The layout of the magazine is nice and clear and the pictures are always appealing." — Patricia & David Marques, Airbus, Bengaluru

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Connecting India

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culture & festivals An introduction by Greek-Cypriot, Marina Marangos, anchor of Culturama’s ‘India & I’ series for the last two years

IN INDIA, the images of cultural activities and festivals sometimes speak so loudly for themselves that anything more seems unnecessary. For me, however, they constitute the starting point of yet another “daring to discover” adventure. Daring, because sometimes in their sheer enormity and overwhelming crowds (I am thinking of the Khumbh Mela here), the unfamiliar and the bizarre, the festivals of Holi, Dussehra and Diwali come to mind, and the intensity of the moment and the climate, can set about to conspire against the discovery. In my three years of living in India, and in particular in Delhi, I have been awed and amused, shocked and moved by the cultural variety, the depth of belief and the diversity on offer. It does help to remind oneself that India as a sub-continent occupies a geographical parameter larger than Europe, so to attempt to see it all and understand it is, perhaps, ambitious. While in many Western countries development comes at the cost of cultural diversity, this rapid progress does not appear to have influenced India in any way. There is no decline in the enthusiasm, detail and care with which cultural events and festivals are conducted all year round. In fact, the opposite is probably true. Government departments as well as the states themselves are given to celebrating the cultural diversity of this enormous country from the special traditions and costumes of the people of the North East, to the Buddhist populations of Nepal and Ladakh, to the Kathakali dancers of the South and the Sufis in the North. The dances, the traditions, the religious festivals and the food are all part of the complex composition of this kaleidoscopic country. So when I see the images, rather than be satisfied with them, they lead me to the history books and the stories, the myths and the epics, because the depth of the culture is complex yet welcoming, perplexing yet approachable. So pick up the Mahabharata and read the story of Lord Rama’s victory over the evil Ravana, which is the background to the Festival of Lights, and then immerse yourself in the softness of Diwali, with her serene rows of lamps. Marvel at the swirling Sufi dervishes and the festival of Bihu in Assam or enjoy the camels in Pushkar or the elephants in Jaipur. No matter in which part of the sub-continent you may be, the chances are that in your time in this country you may experience some of the cultural activities and festivals celebrated throughout the year. And daring to be part of them will never leave you, wherever your future might take you.

“Having lived abroad for many years, and then returned to India, I truly see the value in the way Culturama is bridging cultures.” Zia Mody, Indian legal consultant and voted Business Woman of the Year, 2010, by the Econimic Times Awards for Corporate Excellence 44

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Pot Holders: Neem and marigold play a major role in many Hindu religious rites. Jasmine and roses are important too. Indian rituals are replete with symbolism, many of which have a scientific underpinning. Even the pots these women worshippers at a temple festival carry on their heads are significant – they remind one of the body as a receptacle for the spirit. Photo: Ercan Bekat, Turkey

Bull Run: The bull fights of Spain find an echo in Tamil Nadu, where Jallikkatu is a very popular sport during the Pongal festival season. Young village men seek to prove their prowess by subjugating enraged bulls. The risk to man and beast is very real. Animal activists and the government have been trying to change the sport. Photo: Emmanuel Mancion, France

All at Sea: Ganesh Chaturthi, the birthday of Lord Ganesh, is a huge event in many parts of India, particularly Maharashtra. Idols of the elephant-headed God in every conceivable pose and size are worshipped. At the end of a fixed period (usually nine days), these idols are ceremoniously immersed in a water body, bringing the innate symbolism of the circle of life to the fore. Basia Kruzewska, USA, 2007 Photo: Emmanuel Mancion, France

Baby on Board: These women of the desert, most likely belonging to an itinerant tribe, have to use their ingenuity to device labour-saving devices for themselves – like this baby carrier for instance. Many Indian homes also make these cloth cradles, and instead of a stick, bunch up the four ends of the cloth into a knot and tie it to a ring in the ceiling. PHOTO: Basia Kruzewska, USA,

What’s your Favourite Shade? Holi is also known as the Festival of Colours, because it is celebrated by drenching friends (and foes) with brightly coloured water. Shops sell dyes of every hue, and young and old let down their hair and let loose with the water guns. With growing awareness, there’s an increasing preference for natural rather than artificial dyes. Photo: Elmarie Blignaut, South Africa

Nailed It! This is an only slightly modified version of what is possibly India’s oldest footwear design called Padukas. Padukas were believed to be worn by the sages and holy men of ancient India. In the Indian epic, Ramayana, Rama’s brother, Bharat, ruled the kingdom of Ayodhya during Rama’s 14-year exile in the forest by placing his padukas on the throne. Photo: Anita Mamidi, canada

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Deep Devotion: Temples are oases of calm amidst the hustle and bustle that is India. With beautiful carvings and paintings, they offer succour to spirit and soul. This priest, possibly an Alwar (Tamil poet saints devoted to Lord Vishnu), clad in traditional saffron, the colour of sacrifice and renouncement, sits in prayer before his deity. Photo: Ian Watkinson, UK

Horse Play: A traditional art form of Tamil Nadu is the ‘Poikaal kuthirai’, literally meaning the horse with false legs. Artistes on stilts cunningly disguised to look like a horse’s body perform lively dance routines, mainly at street corners and temple festivals. Efforts are on to keep this dying art alive. Photo: Diana Greiger, Germany

The Brotherhood: With the Golden Temple shimmering in the background, these Sikh men strike a pose at Amritsar, Punjab. Sikhism, founded by Guru Gobind Singh, is a major offshoot of Hinduism. Followers of the religion can be identified at first glance by their trademark turbans. India’s Prime Minister Dr. Manmohan Singh belongs to this community. Photo: Aling Jouve, France Prayers in Stone: Lord Shiva, Destroyer of Evil, who makes up the Hindu Trinity with Lord Brahma the Creator and Lord Vishnu the Preserver, is worshipped in many forms. He is Lord Nataraj, who performed the cosmic dance and also Ardhanareeshwara, half-man-half-woman. But perhaps the lingam in this picture is his most ubiquitous representation. Photo: Magali Couffon de Trevors, France

I Bow to Thee: India is home to the second largest Muslim population in the world. The Moghul Dynasty established the religion in the region, and its votaries keep the faith with zeal. When the Muezzin sounds the call to prayer at specific times each day, devout followers of Mohammed turn to face Mecca and worship. Photo: Marie-Laure Rousseau, France 46

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Beast of Many Colours: The elephant has long been a valued asset of kings and temples in India. These gentle giants are showcased during religious festivals, often elaborately accoutered, bejeweled or painted like this one during the annual Elephant Festival of Jaipur. Photo: Darlene Armijo, USA

For Whom the Bell Tolls: Bells form an integral part of the system of worship in India, as elsewhere. They’re believed to invoke the deities to shower their blessings on the worshippers, and also serve the practical purpose of drowning out distracting, worldly sounds. These votive bells at Kamakhya Temple in Guwahati, Assam, are sacred bells of hope tied by devotees. Photo: John & Michele Rose, France

Culture in Exile: Over the centuries, India has offered refuge to many communities. Tibetans, led by their spiritual head, the Dalai Lama, is perhaps one of the best known by the world. The Tibetans safeguard their own religion and ethnicity in little pockets in India, chiefly Dharmashala. Their temples and settlements are popular tourist spots. Photo: Herve Beaudet, France

The Mother: India has not only given the world major religions but has also assimilated world religions and made them its own. In fact, Christianity is believed to have been brought to India by St. Thomas over 2,000 years ago. Idols of the Virgin Mary draped in a sari are a common sight. Church ‘processions’ are also regularly taken out, in the style of Hindu temple festivals. Photo: Elia Atzori, Italy Standing for India: Mahatma Gandhi and the concept of non-violence are among India’s most valued contributions to the world. The story of how the country won freedom from Colonial rule, with a mass movement spearheaded by a frail man in a loincloth, is legendary. Over 60 years after Independence, it is rarely that we come across a freedom fighter now. Photo: Couffon De Trevros, France

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Calm Before the Storm: A baby relaxes, all unaware, as she’s about to have her ear pierced. Ear-piercing ceremonies are part of the Hindu rituals performed during childhood. Both boys and girls of some Hindu sects have their ears pierced in keeping with religious traditions and acupuncture benefits for health. Photo: Anneke Slenters, The Netherlands

Like Grandma Makes It: The grinding stone has almost acquired antique status in India. It has been replaced by electric mixers and grinders. But nothing can beat the flavour of spices and condiments freshly ground by hand, or of hand-pounded rice cooked over an open fire. Photo: Sue Taylor, UK

Woman Power: Durga, the Mother Goddess, is specially revered in West Bengal, where Durga Puja is a very important festival. In Hinduism, Shakti, or Power, is portrayed as a woman, and Maa Durga, the most potent of them all, is said to come once a year to abolish evil in the world. She is said to have the combined power of all the mothers in the world. Photo: Irene Salas Gastalver, Spain

The Elixir of Life: Hindus consider the waters of its rivers (Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswathi, Godavari, Brahmaputra, Narmada, Krishna and Kaveri) sacred, capable of washing away the sins of a lifetime. The waters, consecrated by temple priests, are stored by many in their homes, and used in various rituals, including death-bed ones. Water used during prayers at the temple is also considered holy and distributed among devotees. Light Up Your Lives! Diwali, Festival of Lights, is a major event. Photo: Edgard Tagnon, France Curiously, it celebrates different things in different parts of India – the triumphant return from exile of Lord Ram to claim his rightful place as King of Ayodhya, and the vanquishing of the Demon Narakasura by Lord Krishna. But the modes of celebration are the same – fireworks, sweets, and millions of little oil lamps. Photo: Tana Dutrevicova, Slovakia 48

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From Darkness to Light: Fire or Agni is an integral part of Indian philosophy. Sacrificial fires and burnt offerings were common in ancient ritual worship, just as it was in other world religions. Even today, fire plays a major role in temple worship and a lamp is always lit at dusk in Indian homes, dispelling the darkness of self-will and negativity, and ushering in the light of self-knowledge. Photo: Alejandra Montanaro, Italy

Jungle Rhythm: Pulikalli, literally Tiger Dance, is a popular folk art form of Kerala, much loved of tourists. Artistes really get into the spirit of the performance of this and other folk dances during the annual Onam season, when the state welcomes back the spirit of its legendary benevolent demon King Mahabali, in whose reign the region was a veritable Utopia. Photo: Yana Fetova, Ukraine

A Fine Seam: The Kashmir Valley is known for exquisite embroidery. When winter sets in, men and women alike spend the long, cold days sitting at home and working intricate patterns on textiles or weaving carpets. Pashmina shawls, handembroidered dress materials, table linen and of course carpets find a ready market all over India and abroad. Photo: Tabitha Loyd, uk

Happily Ever After: A Hindu bride traditionally wears red. It stands for prosperity and fertility. In most Hindu weddings, the bride and groom exchange garlands after walking around a sacred fire. Just as guests bless the bridal pair by throwing confetti in the West, in India, at the most auspicious moment of the ceremony, rose petals and rice grains are showered on the couple. Photo: Richard Buttrey, UK

River of Piety: The Ganga, the lifeline of millions in North India, is revered and worshipped as a Goddess. Pujas are held regularly along the river banks, and special rites are performed. On auspicious occasions, these are more spectacular than normal, and are attended by large gatherings. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a tourist attraction. Photo: Thorsten Vieth, Germany

Designed to Please: In India, you find art in the most unexpected places. Wander into a village tucked deep in the country, and you might find youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve stumbled on some exquisite craft or other â&#x20AC;&#x201C; intricate lace work, beautifully embellished metal curios, or even elaborate designs like these, painted in stark white on tamped-down red mud floors of simple dwellings. Photo: Thomas Valero, France culturama | June 2012

In Top Form: Classical dances are among the fine arts of India. Each region has its own, and each has its own distinct costumes, conventions and music. All are vibrant, colourful and a feast for the senses. Kathak, Manipuri, Odissi, Mohiniattam, Kathakali and Bharatanatyam are among the best known Indian classical dance styles. Photo: Rienke Van Niewland, Holland

Wedding Bands: A remnant of the British legacy in India, wedding bands continue to thrive in India, especially in the North. Dressed in bright colours with imaginative headgear, they play popular songs from Indian cinema during the wedding procession, when the bride and bridegroom arrive for their reception. Photo: Jerry Alan Smith, USA

Eyes Forward: Processions, like this group is readying for, are part and parcel of life in India. This is a group of Lord Vishnuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s devotees, made evident by the sacred marks on their forehead, the white lines on either side representing Lord Shiva and Lord Brahma, and the red line in the centre representing Lord Vishnu. Photo: Secondo Balducci, Italy

Powder Patterns: Indians welcome their guests in many ways. One of the most beautiful is the kolam, as it is known in the South. Designs, simple or intricate, are drawn on freshly washed thresholds, using fine rice powder. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re backed by sound principles of geometry, and are even eco-friendly, providing food for ants. In the North, these motifs are called rangoli, and are made with coloured powder. Photo: Nancy Hopkins, UK

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Food for the Gods: The harvest festival of Tamil Nadu or Pongal, celebrated as Makara Sankranti in the North, is a festival of new beginnings, honouring the Sun God. Indian homes are decorated with banana and mango leaves, and milk is allowed to boil over in mud pots to signify abundance. A dish of rice and lentils, flavoured with ghee, salt and pepper, also called ‘pongal’ is prepared. Photo: Heike Widmet, Germany

A Sight to Behold! Temple festivals don’t come much grander than this one – the Thrissur Pooram in Kerala. The annual event involves, among other things, a mind-boggling number of splendidly decked out, perfectly trained elephants and mahouts performing a complicated ritual with coloured umbrellas. The celebrations end with a dazzling pyrotechnics display. Photo: Monica Bradley, USA

Amazing Race: Snake boats are unique to Kerala. Made from specially treated wood, they lie low in the water, and are used for hugely popular boat races along the River Pampa and other water bodies. Crew are highly trained, and teams practice long and hard for the prestigious annual Nehru Trophy Race held during the Onam Season, which is a big tourist draw. Photo: Mike Eliseou, UK

Green Gold: The betel is of immense religious significance, as Hindus believe it is the home of many deities. It is an essential item during pujas and other events of religious significance. It is also believed to be a digestive, and is rich in vitamins. ‘Paan’, beloved of many Indians, is simply betel leaves filled with slaked lime, areca nut and other ingredients. Photo: Magali Couffon de Trevors, France

The Wheels of God: Temple festivals are occasions for the neighbourhood to celebrate. Idols are taken out in procession on chariots drawn by devotees. Some chariot festivals are so popular that they draw crowds in the hundreds of thousands. One has even contributed a word to the English dictionary – Juggarnaut, coming from the huge chariot of the Puri Jagannath Temple in Orissa. Photo: Monica Bradley, USA

culturama | June 2012

Spin a Prayer: Prayer wheels have become symbols of the Tibetan Buddhist tradition. Made of metal, wood, stone or cotton, these wheels have the prayer Om Mani Padme Hum inscribed in Sanskrit. Spinning the wheels are equivalent to chanting the prayer and are considered the corporeal expression of Buddha’s phrase, “turning the wheel of Dharma”. Photo: Rienke Van Niewland, Holland

Road to Enlightenment: If you don’t go to the Mountain in India, the Mountain will come to you. ‘Mobile Temples’ are a common sight, especially in rural areas. Motorised carts, carrying pictures of deities travel from one village to the other, complete with taped devotional music, as this picture of Shirdi Sai Baba (Indian saint revered by Hindus and Muslims) on wheels. Photo: James Beasley, USA

Tri-Colour India: The significance of India’s flag as we know it today was famously explained by Independent India’s first Vice-President, Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan. He believed that saffron stood for selfless leadership, white for truth, green for reverence to the earth and the ‘Ashoka Chakra’ in the centre as the forever turning law of dharma. Photo: Ninna Marie Hogedal, denmark 52

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Drum Beats: Folk arts are as varied as India’s ethnic communities. The Thappattam is a dance form practised by the Dalit community of Tamil Nadu. The dancers move to an irresistible, insistent beat of drums. Though of ancient origin, it is still popular. Photo competition 2001

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culturama | june 2012

culturama | June 2012

Connecting India

into india An introduction by Britisher Suzanne McNeil, former editor and designer of this magazine

I REMEMBER meeting a group of Westerners in Chennai, yoga enthusiasts who’d spent several weeks at an ashram in Kerala and now visiting Chennai on their way back to Europe. We chatted amicably, but there was a disconnect—that I was living in India for reasons of business rather than in search of spiritual enlightenment or volunteering as a charity worker ran counter to their assumptions of why visitors come to India. They probed: did I ever step outside my expat ‘bubble’? Did I actually know any Indians? Was this high-mindedness on their part? More an unthinking assumption that expatriates are in India only to consume what they can of the culture, the experience (and, on behalf of their companies, the business talent) without any desire to assimilate further. And it’s true that there are visitors who never step outside their comfort zone and who never quite get past the fact that India isn’t like ‘home’. However, my experience is that many, many more make great efforts to integrate with India’s culture, as these photographs demonstrate. The range is varied, but all convey that excitement when you realise that you’ve connected in some way, a sense that you’ve had an insight into something new, something integral to the country’s culture. Certainly I came to India with an agenda: I wanted to visit the maharajas’ palaces, the ancient forts and the sites of the Raj. I wanted to discover the fabrics and taste the food, experience the cities, and visit the countryside. I wanted to live in the East. I wanted to see a tiger in the wild! I did these things, and more, and somewhere along the way I stopped being a spectator and became a participant. Those are the memories that define my experience in India: invitations to family weddings, blessing ceremonies and pujas; meeting my husband’s work colleagues; photographing and being photographed by families visiting Mahabalipuram or the fisherman on a beach; sharing a smile and a few words with the stall holders at the local market; and, most recently, revisiting Chennai and staying in a friend’s family home. These are modest levels of immersion into Indian culture, and perhaps don’t carry the same cachet to the non-visitor as the prospect of visiting the Golden Triangle, but in retrospect they were the most special of times. And to answer those questions posed by the yoga students, yes, I certainly did! We lived in the South and then in North India for a period of seven years, and I had the great fortune to work for much of the time as the editor for At A Glance, which became Culturama. As an ‘Into India’ experience, this could not be bettered, and it opened up new interactions and vistas for me that I continue to enjoy to this day.

“Congratulations on your 200th issue! The cultural information in the magazine has helped me settle, and the advertisements fulfil my shopping needs. There is only one thing that I feel sad about and that is that I missed all the magazines that we published before I arrived in India!” — Nathalie Brantsma, The Netherlands 56

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Bangled Out: Bangles form an integral part of the Indian woman’s wardrobe, adding that much-needed colour (yes, we love colour!) to the ensemble.Traditionally, bangle sellers help you try out the bangles to avoid breakage, as they are usually made of glass. Expats love the tinkle of glass bangles as much as the ritual itself! Photo: Aline Jouve, France,

Blending In: He poses quite happily amidst the Indian tourists at the Shore Temple, Mamallapuram, content to let the Indians in the background stay where they are. For most expatriates, this Indian habit of not moving away from the frame until asked to, works in their favour to add local flavour to their India sojourn. So click away! Photo: Alexander Kara, Sweden

Making a Row: For most Americans and Europeans, kayaking, sailing and punting are popular hobbies. In India, however, a local ride out to sea would mean a catamaran, a raft made with four pieces of wood tied together, or a wooden boat. Boatmen are usually happy to let you have a go, especially for a photo op. Photo: Bart Bradley, USA Shake Hands: The fascination for white skin in India is very real, especially in the land of dark-skinned South India. Call it a colonial fixation or plain aspiration, but expats are usually treated with a lot of awe in India. It is quite common for Indians to want to shake hands with them or take a picture with them. Photo: Bart Bradley, USA

Show Me, Please: In most parts of India, people are more than obliging to strike a pose for you, especially in rural parts, where cameras are a novelty and photographs are still considered taboo. Take the time to show them what you have shot; it’s a fascinating experience for most to see themselves framed in a box. Photo: Brigitte Rhodius, UK

Girl Power: The fact that the Snake Boat Race of Kerala is a popular tourist attraction is a given. But not many would take the plunge, literally! These expat women, dressed in the traditional saris of Kerala called the ‘settu mundu’ are raring to go. You can clearly pick them out with their sunglasses and gloved hands. Photo: Basia Kruzewska, USA

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eye full india: One of the things Indians always miss out on is exploring India. It is so much a part of our lives that we need an expat pair of eyes to show us the beauty of the country. And many times, looking at pictures like these of Ladakh’s picturesque landscape, we can’t help but envy their enthusiasm to take back to the world a view of India. Photo: Carol Haynes, USA

Trunk Calling: Since most of the 33 million gods of the Hindu pantheon have animal mounts, animals are worshipped with equal fervour. The elephant is the mount of Lord Indra, the God of Gods, and to be blessed by one is a sacred act. Temple elephants usually oblige for a banana, a must-do for expats visiting India. PHOTO: Hampus Hall, Sweden

Loud & Clear: The loud Madras Check shirt coupled with an equally loud lungi (sarong) might be reminiscent of the 1980s’ Indian cinema, but it sure is becoming of this particular expat. Armed with a camera, he endorses not just the expat experience of India but also the popular male attire that is the answer to India’s humid weather. Photo: David Neville, USA 58

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Cross-legged India: Sitting cross-legged on the floor can still flummox an expat, especially if it involves eating a meal as well! Usually, this position is associated with the ancient Indian practice of yoga and meditation, something every expat living in India experiences at least once. In fact, sitting cross-legged with the back straight is said to be one of the most balanced postures. pHOTO:Darlene Armijo, USA

Planting Memories: Have you ever tried to dirty your feet in the muddy waters of a paddy field? If not, give it a shot and feel the rhythm of India’s earth and the pulse of her agriculture industry that is sadly declining economically, even if demographically it dominates. If yes, you know what we are talking about. Photo: Emmanuel Mancion, France

Tuk Tuk Clan: The auto in India is something we cannot explain, because this three-wheeled mean machine is only to be experienced. It’s not the same as the TukTuk you might find elsewhere in the world, as the Indian auto is its own master and slave to none, not even the Indian traffic! Photo: Elaine Wood, Australia

Coconut Calling: Indian summers are incomplete without the ubiquitous tender coconuts. These natural thirst quenchers, Yelaneer in the South and Naariyal Paani in the North, can be found in every Brand Ambassador: It wouldn’t be incorrect to say that the white Ambassador street corner of India. It’s quite something to watch the vendor hack car is a symbol of old India. Made in India for Indian roads, the Ambassador car the top away with his sickle and deftly put a straw in for the sweet is a dying breed, although it continues to be the preferred choice for government water, and then break the coconut for its soft flesh inside. Photo: Elaine Wood, Australia officials. It’s a classic, through and through. Photo: Elaine Wood, Australia

Reflected Glory: One of the things Indians appreciate the most about the expat community is their uncanny ability to always make us go deeper into our culture. Through their experiences and understanding, we see the India as we know it reflected back as the India waiting to be rediscovered. Photo: Franz Hartinger, Germany

Heady Welcome: If flower garlands and cocktails in coconut shells await every visitor to Hawaii, then in India, along with flower garlands, it is the allpervasive ‘tilak’ on the forehead, said to spiritually open the third eye of selfknowledge. Sandal, kumkum (red powder), turmeric or holy ash is commonly used. Photo: Linda Graeble,France culturama | June 2012

Charmed: Snake charmers, rope tricks and magic carpets are an intrinsic part of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s yore in the West. Centre Pinning: Jasmine, firecracker flower, rose, marigoldâ&#x20AC;Ś the list of flowers adorned by While the latter two have been relegated to the pages of Indian women on their hair is endless, as they are considered auspicious, often a sign of marriage. mythology, snake charmers are still very much around, Indian women grow their hair specifically for this purpose, as pinning flowers on short hair could even if there are only a few of them. A great photo op for both the faint-hearted and the brave! be quite a challenge and a spectacle! Photo: Jennifer Mauldin, Australia Photo: Felicity Kelly, USA

Big Love: The other side of being blessed by temple elephants is being loved by them. In the elephant camps of Kerala, Nilgiris or Jaipur, giving the elephant a bath by the river is a mammoth task (pun unintended), one the local mahout is happy to share with eager hands. Photo: Ingo Hofmaier, Austria

Grind Stone: Using a grinding stone to powder rice might almost be extinct in cities, but the experience is still available in villages or heritage spaces. Two circular pieces of stones are held together with a wooden stick in the centre, and another stick is attached to the stone on top to allow for the circular motion. Photo: Jennifer Mauldin, Australia

Skin Tone: Most expats tell us how India is so welcoming, her people so compassionate and her spirit (and weather) so warm. And for us Indians, it is the expat who is gracious, polite and courteous. Just goes to show that dark or white, a smile can simply make everything bright! Photo: John & Michele Rose, France 60

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Bikini Blues: Now this is a conundrum expats just can’t seem to figure out. Why would you visit your beautiful beaches fully clothed? The mystery is equally baffling from the other side too. Don’t you feel shy to visit our beaches in just a bikini? So, can I sell you some clothes? Photo: Nancy Reisig, USA

Lending a Hand: Part of an expatriate’s culture, no matter where they are from, is a deep respect for the fellow human being. So when someone notices the hardworking fisherman in Kerala with his Chinese fishing net and offers to lend a hand, it touches Indian’s heart like nothing else. Photo: Keri McLeod, USA

With Love, Taj: One of the seven wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal, built by Shah Jahan for his wife, Mumtaz, as a token of his love for her, remains THE tourist attraction. It is reported that 1000 elephants were used to transport the marble to the site. Photo: Monica Bradley, UK

Framed: The beauty of India’s architecture lies in her details, in the little nooks and crannies that sing a different tune, letting your imagination take charge and transport you to a bygone era. In fact, at one point in ancient India, women were allowed to look at the world go by only through such jharokas or windows. Photo: Neil Simons, UK

Window Seat: There is something so simple yet poignant about this picture that it remains etched in your Treasure Trove: India’s wildlife, her forests and jungles, her mountains and streams, are so memory long after you have seen it. For us, it is what full of a sense of adventure that every expat’s itinerary features one of these. Whether it is to spot this magazine, and the company that produces it, is all a tiger or breathe in the fresh mountain air, the rhythm at the deepest core of India, if found, is about – giving expatriates an exclusive window seat on something to be treasured. this journey called India. Photo: Olivia Taghioff, Sweden Photo: Olivia Taghioff, Sweden culturama | June 2012

Desertification: Everyone in India is happy to pose for the camera, even the camels. The scariest part of a camel ride is when the camel rises off the ground, forelegs first followed by the hind legs. For a real-life roller coaster ride, despite all that padding on the humps, try the camel. Photo: Elena Eder, Italy

Precision: Mehendi is the Indian tradition of creating intricate and beautiful patterns with henna on a woman’s hands or feet. Traditionally, in south India, it involved a simple circle on the palm of one’s hand, with caps on fingertips to denote the sun and its rays. Today, elaborate designs are made, especially during Indian weddings, with readymade henna cones available in the market. Photo: Jukka & Pia Lehtela, Finland

Potter About: Headgear in India come in all shapes and sizes. We are not talking about turbans, but the Indian way of carrying heavy loads on the head, with nothing but cloth padding below, sometimes not even that. It’s a balancing act alright, one that this particular expat has got spot on. Photo: Sarah McGain, UK 62

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Cart Attack: Now here’s a different picture. Look carefully and, for a change, you will spot an Indian taking a picture of the expat! Riding a camel cart is very different from riding a bullock cart as the system of yoking is much more complicated. Don’t be too surprised to find them on the roads, braving the traffic with élan. Photo: Silva Paananen, Finland

Do the Bhangra: An Indian wedding is a celebration because it isn’t just about the bride and groom but about the union of two families. Impromptu dancing and singing en masse, are a part and parcel of the wedding, whether on the streets or inside air-conditioned halls. As with everything in India, the more the merrier. Photo: Thorsten Vieth, Germany

Meal on the Floor: If you are visiting Jaipur, then a trip to Chokhi Dhani is inevitable. This village-themed resort gives you a glimpse of life in Rajasthan, replete with a full-course meal on the floor with brass plates and glasses made of clay. And if you can’t sit cross-legged, this expat offers you a simple solution. Photo: Tana Dutkevicova, Slovakia

Aye, Aye, Captain: Kerala or Kashmir, a stay in a houseboat is a must. The slow cadence of the backwaters is instantly calming and the pristine views of greenery or mountains a salve for sore computer eyes. Houseboats can be hired without a boatman as well, leaving you on your own with nature. Photo: Violette Brand, UK

A Fine Cut: For an expat used to the hygiene offered by five-star salons, this is a rare experience and one that needs to be lauded! It certainly takes guts to give these roadside barbers a go, unmindful of the comb and rusted pair of scissors, though they do dip it in disinfectant! Photo: Yana Fetova, Ukraine culturama | June 2012

Saluting Mother Earth: The Indian practice of paying respect to the earth in the groundbreaking ceremony, or bhoomi puja, cuts across all religious barriers, Mother Earth acting as the natural cultural bridge. In Global Adjustments’ experience, the company produces this magazine, it has been refreshing to see expats coming to do business in India respecting tradition and winning co-workers’ hearts. Photo: Global Adjustments, India

Travel Time: India’s public transport can be intimidating to an Indian, leave alone an expat. But here’s an example of one brave soul who looks beyond the heady cocktail of culture and colour, to live life like an Indian, cotton kurta, cloth bag and so on. The result? She has been accepted as no one is staring! Photo: Sarah McGain, UK

Lights On: Culturama celebrated Diwali with these young global citizens, dressed in traditional Indian attire and holding lamps of light and knowledge in their hands. It was our way of adding one more meaning to this Festival of Lights – that of spreading the warmth of oneness. Photo: G Venket Ram, India Leafy Hands: The South Indian practice of eating off of a banana leaf is said to aid digestion, thanks to the chemical released when it comes in contact with hot rice. The Indian practice of eating with your hands might seem messy, but it spiritually exudes the importance of touch. For an expat, however, it is just going back to the basics, rolling up your sleeves and having a whole lot of fun! Photo: Global Adjustments, India

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Like a Prayer: Raising children in India means hiring local nannies to look after them. And for the child that thrives on learning through imitation, it is literally a crash course on Indian spirituality. The fact that this little child is sitting on the floor bare feet and imitating her nanny in prayer is what assimilation without prejudices is all about. Photo: Ran Levy, Israel

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culturama | June 2012

Connecting India

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Unique India An introduction by acclaimed photographer, G Venket Ram, the creative mind behind this issue’s cover design

AS A photographer, you are constantly in what I call a state of observation. You notice things, from the way light falls on a particular subject, the colours of the sky, the shape of a tree, to a fresh composition that springs to mind in the middle of traffic, an interesting face that jumps out of a crowd or even the sounds and smells of everyday life around you. Suddenly, everything is an image, neatly defined in the 4:3 aspect ratio of your camera, which is not just an extension of your arm, but your mind as well. And thanks to the advent of technology, everyone is trigger happy today. But what happens when you look at something from a different perspective, through the lens of a different pair of eyes? What happens when the commonplace is transformed into something that arrests your attention? This particular category of Unique India images did just that to me. I laughed out loud at the inherent humour so simply captured, I smiled with affectionate pride at the dynamism that is India, and I revisited my own memories, my growing up years, and looked at those symbols that remained in the background from a new perspective. Whether it is graffiti on a camel, a group of men pushing a plane, our ability to convert anything, the language of English included, the solitary iron-wallah at the end of the street, the coconut seller effortlessly climbing the coconut tree with nothing but a rope sling around him, or a man carrying bales of cotton on his shoulders like huge cylindrical blinkers, it is all a part of the nuances that make India. It wasn’t easy choosing these images, to strike the right balance between the inanely funny to the singularly distinctive feature of

India, but through it all, the only angle I kept in mind was to highlight those aspects of India that are truly unique with no equivalent existing anywhere else in the world. I have often heard the phrase – This happens only in India – and gone from finding it amusing to being frustrated by it. Because, I could never make the other understand that what makes India unique is not the defeatist attitude that is usually associated with this phrase, but the knowledge and acceptance that we are different, the wisdom ingrained in our veins that this is who we are and we are happy. Yes, it happens only in India, and thank god for that!

“What an honour it is to see the 200th issue of Culturama come to print! It has been such a privilege to receive, issue after issue, a magazine that not only highlights the amazing things that India has to offer but also features the fantastic things that adopted citizens of this country have to offer India!” — Jukka Lehtelä (former Director of India Operations, Nokia) & Pia Lax-Lehtelä, Finland 68

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Beaker Service: Parrot astrology, or ‘kili josiyam’ as it is known in the South, is when the parrot nimbly hops out of his cage, picks up a card (similar to tarot Moo Moo, Anyone There? The shop might be closed for an afternoon siesta, but that doesn’t cards, except there are images of Gods inside) at randeter this particular customer, who can’t seem to make up his mind! Cows in India are revered and dom from the stack piled in front him and gives it to worshipped, and are given a free reign to saunter where they wish. Even the otherwise snarling traffic the astrologer, who then goes on to read your future. sidesteps these creatures sometimes found resting on Indian roads. Sounds incredible? Well, if an Octopus can do it, so Photo: Greg Hamra, USA can a parrot! Photo: Philip James Clegg, UK

Signed Out: When hoardings and billboards vie for attention all over the country, why not shop signs and Skinny Love: There is a part of the human soul that seeks to make a mark in the world, and posters? In cities, you will find that every little space in India, we simply take that a step further. Most historical monuments (and this poor camel) are is taken – from spoken English classes, to electronics sullied by proclamations of love (the Taj Mahal included), with no regard or concern for heritage stores, to DTP centres. Most times, you will find rows and rows of stores selling the same kind of products. values or cultural significance. It’s an Indian trait, one that we aren’t proud of. Who said shopping in India was difficult? Photo: Barrois Nicolas, France Photo: Wu Teng Guo, Singapore

Salt to Taste: Salt and India go back a long way to India’s freedom struggle, when Mahatma Gandhi immortalised this humble kitchen ingredient in the Dandi March or Salt March, a non-violent protest against the salt tax imposed by the British empire. Salt pans are a common sight along Indian roads, evoking a taste of times gone by. Photo: James Beasley, USA culturama | June 2012

One Too Many: The popular expat joke in India is, “How many can you fit in?” and the answer, “Always, one more”. As painful as this picture might look for the camel, India seems to thrive on the phrase: “Please, adjust”. Buses, rickshaws, motorcycles and cars, there is always space for one more. PHOTO: Paul Fejer, UK

The Food Regiment: Apart from neatly packaged food, mini-department stores like these also stock unbranded (usually homemade) sweets and snacks in non-descript glass jars, arranged to perfection. These sweets and snacks are usually fast-moving and are loosely packed based on the customers’ requirements. PHOTO: Cesare Pagani, Italy

Blink and Miss: Multi-tasking is India’s second name, and if we can do something in one go, no matter the hazards involved, then we are willing to take the risk. Because, you see, nothing is impossible. Not even carrying these two huge bags of what looks like foam, with a plastic pipe balanced in between. photo competition 2007

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Assembly Line: To say that real estate is a booming business in India is an understatement. Every street corner seems to have a new construction in progress, a boon for the rural population moving into cities in search of work. India’s massive labour force makes work possible, even when modern machinery is unavailable. PHOTO: Christa Martin-Kurz, Germany

Race to the Finish: Now this is something you will see only on Indian roads. Man and beast and machine travelling neck to neck, quite unperturbed by the other. Bullock carts, camel carts, horses, and elephants – it doesn’t matter how you travel in India; what matters is that you get there. PHOTO: Christa Martin-Kurz, Germany

Motor Way: The coracle, a small light-weight round boat, called parisal in India, is a common mode of transport in Karnataka. Bikers or cyclists who need to be ferried across the river are quite comfortable in these indigenous boats, so much so, they prefer to be seated exactly where they are, pillion rider included. PHOTO: Emmanuel Mancion, France

Just Juiced: Sugarcane juice is one of India’s favourite street-side drinks, made with this contraption unique to India. The vendor operates this with a manual pedal, running the sugarcane between the rollers in the centre, and offers the sweet sugarcane juice with ice in sturdy glasses. PHOTO: Willi Willson, New Zealand

Washed Away: Welcome to India’s version of a Laundromat! It’s open air, with rows of concrete-box-shaped wash pens standing in readiness for the day’s ritual. Dhobi Ghat in Mumbai is considered the world’s largest outdoor laundry, used by the city’s Dhobis or washermen, who provide this service for large establishments like hotels and resorts. PHOTO: Franz Hartinger, Germany

Power to You: Lighting up your life in India are these electrical handymen, who have little or no regard for safety as they climb up electric poles for quick repairs, without even a basic pair of rubber chappals. This smiling man of power seems quite relaxed high up there, even taking a minute to pose. PHOTO: Greg Hamra, USA

Herd That: In the interior parts of India, vehicles are forced to bow down to innocent herds of sheep or goats, as they amble along home after grazing the fields. Well, it isn’t the shepherd’s or the animal’s fault really if roads came up to disrupt their regular route! Photo: Secondo Balducci, Italy

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Face Out: What more can we say for this picture that speaks not a thousand, but ten thousand words! One thing that we can add is that the moustache is a symbol of manhood in India. While the practice in North India is to go for the clean shaven look, apart from the Sikh community and parts of the Rajasthani community, in the South, facial hair in men is considered ubercool. PHOTO: Emma Horne, UK

Words of India: India has this incredible ability to make anything and everything its own, and that includes English as well. And so we have here an instance of the Pidgin English of India. Here’s a little test. If you can decipher the last line on this very colourful menu board, then you have truly arrived in India. Photo : Ingo Hofmaier, Austria

Dry Day: If we can wash clothes in the open, then we can dry them too. Usually, you will find clothes drying on little tufts of grass in the open, but this is innovation at its best. Six-yard saris laid to rest on steps, possibly leading down to the river where they were washed, to make sure that they dry without any untoward creases. PHOTO: Mary Kay Fallbeck, USA

Pressing Times: An iron box made of metal that can be opened from the top to make room for hot coal within that produces steam, and has the ability to smoothen curves out of just about any material… Possible? Of course! Meet India’s ironwallahs. Did we mention that there is no electricity involved in the process? PHOTO: Alejandra Montanaro, Italy 72

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Beasts of Burden: In the elephant camps of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala, elephants are trained to work for local communities, usually to carry logs of wood or anything large and cumbersome. They are reared specifically for this purpose, which sets them apart from their brethren in the wild. PHOTO: Melissa Enderle, USA

Push Over: Where else but in India will you see a group of men trying to push a plane? It’s instances like these that have given the corporate world the term ‘jugaad’, which means to innovate with the resources available. Engine problem? So what if it’s not a car. Same principle, only more people. Simple. PHOTO: Emmanuel Mancion, France

Sharp Needs: India’s churiwallahs or knife sharpeners are a dying breed today, but the handiness of this mobile service cannot be denied. A small stone disc looped with a rubber belt connected to the rim of a bicycle wheel makes up the simple sharpening apparatus, with the tool to be sharpened held against the whirring stone. Photo: Roseli Gewehr, BraziL

Shell Shocked: India never ceases to surprise, and that holds true for Indians as well. Until we received this picture, we had no idea that indigenous shell sorters existed! Shot on the banks of Kanyakumari, the southern-most tip of India, this is certainly a clever way of sorting and cleaning shells from the sea. Photo: Basia Kruzewska, USA

Chilli Gate: We like our food spicy, and why not? India is the world’s largest, producer and consumer of chillies, with almost every state producing this favourite spice. Once cultivated, they are dried in the sun, before they are ready for consumption. Photo: Natasha Wood, Australia

Bad Hair Day: Tonsuring your head in prayer or when a death occurs in the family is common practice in India, especially prevalent in the pilgrim cities. The local barber, whose main source of income might just be this, uses a simple blade and shaves your head just about anywhere. Photo: Michele Bosciano, Italy culturama | June 2012

Phone Booth: With the advent of mobile phones in India, these phone booths have almost become extinct. For the uninitiated, PCO stands for Public Call Office (local calls), STD for Subscriber Trunk Dialling (outstation calls) and ISD for International Subscriber Dialling (international calls). PHOTO: Suk Hee Lee, Korea

Cricket Fever: Only in India will you see the true extent of cricket fever! Monks, usually associated with studious routines and spiritual endeavours, play the game with complete abandon and full concentration. You must hand it to them for using the yellow sack as the wicket. PHOTO: Brigitte Rhodius, UK

Door Delivery: Now we take our door deliveries seriously. You just have to look at this man on his moped to see just how seriously! He is actually carrying three sets of mattresses and is making it look like it’s the most natural thing in the world. Don’t miss the Humanitarian Van in the background, with the driver on his mobile. PHOTO: Sheila Bennett, USA

Side Step: For villages and tribal communities in the fringes of development, progress is used as a means of survival. Don’t be too surprised to find them using roads close to their settlements to aid the farming process, like this lady is doing, drying harvested lentils, calmly levelling it with her stick. PHOTO: Amore Marcello, Italy Chinese Fishing Nets: Said to have been introduced in India by a Chinese explorer, the Chinese Fishing Nets of Kerala are a popular tourist attraction. They look complicated enough to warrant attention. Elaborate contraptions by the shore, the nets are balanced by a series of ropes and rocks, allowing the fishermen to operate up to 20 nets or more at a time. PHOTO: Federico Donega, Italy 74

culturama | june 2012

Quadruplet on Wheels: A family of four on a bike – two adults and two children – is usual. Carrying a newborn on a bike, yes, we have seen that too. But four adults is quite something! If there is any discomfort, they don’t seem to mind. We are glad the girl in front is at least bending down, allowing the rider to see the road. Photo: Martin Reisig, USA,

Up, Up and Away: Have you ever seen a coconut tree climber in action? If you haven’t, then this picture will show you how they simply strap themselves to the tree with a rubber belt and use their hands and feet to prop themselves up. They even manage to carry the sickle to cut the coconut and sometimes, a mobile phone too! Photo: Faye Briony Peusan, France

Look Lock: Only in India will you find the old and the new co-existing effortlessly. Like on this door, with the old lock shaped like a trident, called trishul in India, and the new lock sitting just above it. Makes you wonder which one is more resilient. Photo: Beth Noute, France

Hero in You: The Hero Cycles have been around since 1956, when the company turned out 639 cycles for the entire year. Today, the cumulative production is over 18,500 per day! Despite various other brands and styles, the Hero Cycle maintains that sense of old-world sturdiness that ceases to fade. A quality that its new breed of expatriate admirers loves, enough to take the cycle back home with them. Photo: Doris Kimme, Germany

A Cut Above: At first glance, it really looks like this man is looking pained because India’s handmade fans are making a clean cut through his head! But look again and you will spend hours trying to figure out exactly how he’s managed to get so many palm-leaf fans on his head! Photo: Tineke Sysmans, Belgium

culturama | June 2012

Fanned Out: In the days before electricity, keeping cool was not always a breeze. Thank god for ingenious ways like this! A hanging cloth punkah or fan fixed above is drawn back and forth by a long string attached to it, creating a draft as it swings. Worshippers at the shrine recognise this service for the god by placing money in the plate next to her. PHOTO: Damian Kelly, Australia

Train Whistle Blowing: Amidst India’s massive railways network, considered the fourth largest in the world, are these “Toy Trains”. A nickname for the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, and listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, it offers a breathtaking view of the Himalayan range. The other ‘toy train’, also recognised by UNESCO, is the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Tamil Nadu. PHOTO: Jean Michel, France

Stitch in Motion: A sewing machine on wheels with the tailor pushing it forward – the contraption sure looks rickety and unreliable. But you will be surprised to discover a tailor who is quick and nimble with his fingers and threads. Quick fix solutions, simple thread work and minor corrections are all up his alley, but he will not stitch any garment from scratch. PHOTO: Doris Kimme, Germany Wall Art: Lots of wall space in India is devoted to cinema. So is mind space. Politics, movies and cricket are perhaps the three things that dominate Indian consciousness! And they are most often connected – film stars become politicians, cricketers become film stars or enter politics, and so on. This young boy poses in front of Bollywood actress Kareena Kapoor’s painting. PHOTO: Brigetta, Sweden 76

culturama | june 2012

It’s a Wrap: The Kancheepuram Silk Saris of India are famed the world over for their intricate double warp and double weft weave and zari work, where the silk thread is dipped in liquid gold and silver. Kancheepuram, also called Silk Town, is in Tamil Nadu, and is home to a large community of weavers. PHOTO: Youngmi Kim, South Korea,

culturama | June 2012

Global Health City Wellness Series

Healthy lifestyle

“Health is wealth”. This was never more true as nowadays. With cost of healthcare escalating and days taken off work meaning heavy financial losses it is imperative we lead a healthy life style to avoid illnesses. Here I give you 10 ways to start leading a healthy life. 1. Service your body. Initially cars run fine but later as the miles add on more frequent visits to the car service shop are required. We do not wait for cars to break down, do we? We do regular servicing. Similarly as one ages, one needs regular health checks to pick up problems early. 2. Use your body. A gate which is rarely used squeaks. However, a door opened everyday functions smoothly. Regular exercise is similar to oiling door hinges and ensures smooth painfree functioning. Our life is getting increasingly automated. Even simple activities like rolling down a car window are now done by moving one finger! Take every opportunity to use your body. Park your car farthest possible from your destination and walk. Take the stairs. 3. A sound mind in a sound body. Your mind is as much a part of you as is your body. Lack of sleep, lack of interest, tearfulness, anxiety, tensed feeling all may indicate problems of the mind. If ignored, mental problems may escalate and seriously interfere with day to day functioning. 4. Rest your body. Sleep for 6 to 8 hours is essential. It is important to sleep at fixed hours. It helps to eat 2 hours prior to bedtime. Avoid watching TV and computer screens prior to

culturama | june 2012

bedtime. Excessive coffee, tea and alcohol all interfere with sleep. Many diseases also interfere with sleep. Insomnia is a serious problem and should be brought to the attention of a physician. 5. Practice moderation. Anything in excess can be dangerous…even water! Foods like sweets, chocolates etc should be restricted to the festival day only. Never stuff yourself. Stop eating when you feel nearly full. 6. You are what you eat. Everyone knows instinctively what is good for one’s health. A simple guide is to eat as close to natural form as possible. For example, raw carrots are an excellent source of vitamins, fiber and energy. On the other hand, carrot halwa hikes up your cholesterol and sugar level. Avoid packed goods. Prepare meals from scratch. 7. Do not abuse your body. To willfully damage your body is probably the worst thing you can do to yourself. Numerous diseases such as lung problems, cancer and heart attacks have been linked to smoking. Alcohol abuse can destroy families as well as the liver. 8. It is never too early to start. Instill good habits when your children are young. Encourage exercise, healthy eating habits and regular sleep. Plan outdoor activities which you can do as a family. Preach to your child. Your guilt conscience may kick in and make you turn a new leaf! 9. Get professional advice. Do not try to analyze any symptoms. For example, weight loss is a common symptom for many diseases and not just uncontrolled diabetes. A physician is better placed to analyze symptoms and arrive at a diagnosis. 10. Drink like a fish. Water is the healthiest drink. It has zero calories and serves the purpose of quenching thirst. Extracting juice and discarding the fiber defeats the purpose of having fruit. Eating fruit means time and effort to clean, peel and consume. Opening a carton and pouring juice out is done in a jiffy. The less effort you put in less are the rewards!

culturama | June 2012

culturama | june 2012

culturama | may 2012