Culturama October 2013 by Rohini Manian

culturama your cultural gateway to india

October 2013 Volume 4, Issue 8

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Art struck

India's contemporary art scene comes alive on canvas

48Spotlight T Athiveera Pandian

Turn to our spotlight on Gandhiji as the country celebrates his birthday on October 2

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Dear readers The story of Arjumand Banu is one of eternal love. And we want to dedicate this issue to her. She died at childbirth, after which her heart-broken husband, Khurram, erected a marble edifice to hold her remains by the banks of the river Yamuna. Yes, it is the story of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz, embodied in the Taj Mahal. I revisited it recently after four decades. The image of the Taj will rest in my mind’s eye for a long time. Yet, my 13-year-old niece was excitedly asking me to take a “Selfie” when we were in front of the beautiful edifice at sunrise. Welcome to today’s gadget world which allows us to freeze our memories and share them with the world instantly. You need to stand in a queue from 5:15 a.m. to enter the Taj Mahal at the crack of dawn. The queue of Indians is far shorter than the separate one for foreigners. The first rays of the sun make the white monument seem almost magically pink. What amazing architectural

October 2013

feats and optical illusions were built into this mausoleum! The guide excitedly points out the angular 3D-effect pillar which, when touched, turns out to be unidimensional and flat. At the tomb, he asks us to call out “Mumtaz” and the name echoes for a full minute. He shows us one of the hexagonal chinks in the intricately carved trellis, grabs my phone camera and captures the whole of the Agra Fort in front through it. I was moved to tears by thoughts of Mumtaz’s short life of 38 years, 19 of which were spent in conjugal bliss, bearing 14 children. The guide photographed us seated on “Diana’s Bench” and I was reminded of another equally young, modern-day princess in the West, who loved, was loved, and died at 36. Let’s celebrate love unconditionally today, as who knows what the future holds! It is what our festivals do, like Navratri or Dussehra this month that reminds us of the eternal and the ephemeral. It is what our long tradition of art does, also echoed in the contemporary artists of our Feature story that reminds us that we always hold the brush in our hands and the colours in our mind. It is what the mighty rivers do, like the Indus in our Seeing India column that reminds us that the power of love is endless, cleaving through the toughest landscapes and mountains. It is also embedded in our architecture that echoes old love, like the charm of Old Delhi in our Picture Story. And it is what time seems to teach us, as Sri Eknath Easwaran tells us in our Holistic Living column, reminding us that all that we hold within is fully and completely alive only in this present moment, not in the past or the future. So go on, immerse yourself in India today; if you are holding this magazine, then it’s definitely a start! Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief

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Credits Original Cover Painting T Athiveera Pandian, www.athiveerapandian.com

Letters to the editor Dear Editor,

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Consultant Editor Praveena Shivram Business Head Sheeba Radhamohan

“Thank you for your love and support. The Mike Eliseou Award in your annual Expatriate Photo Competition this year is a very beautiful and special tribute to Mike. He would have been so happy.” Roseli Eliseou, Brazil

Editorial Coordinator Shefali Ganesh Senior Designer Prem Kumar

Dear Editor,

Consultant Designers 2adpro

“I like the feel of the September issue of Culturama; it has a good mix of articles for a cross section, and I am sure it will interest everyone. The cover by Venket Ram of Priyadarsini Govind is splendid.”

Circulation Manager R Vijayan Advertising Bengaluru T Mukundan Chennai M Dhiviya Delhi/NCR Preeti Bindra, Ruchika Srivastava Mumbai/Pune Farah Bakshay, Rachana Sinha Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 Email culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 7/2, Edward Road, Off Cunningham Road, Bengaluru – 560052 Tel +91-80-41267152 Email culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon – 122002 Tel +91-124-4354236 Email del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai Rustom Court, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai – 400030 Tel +91-22-66104191/92 Email mum@globaladjustments.com Pune CTS No. 37/1, Bund Garden Road, Next to Jehangir Hospital, Pune – 411001 Mobile +91-9545453023 Email pune@globaladjustments.com To subscribe to this magazine, write to circulation@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.culturama.in Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028, and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

Steve Borgia, Indeco Resorts

Dear Editor,

“Your magazine has published something that is quite inappropriate in the A to Z of India on slang words. The word ‘Kela’ in Assam has quite another meaning and is akin to a derogatory swear word! How can you make such a gross error?!” Chitra Puri, India

Editor’s Note: Dear Chitra, thank you for taking the time out to call us and explain this horrific error in Culturama. I am deeply and truly sorry. We will make sure that we avoid such errors in the future. Dear Editor,

“It was wonderful to see the August issue of Culturama. I enjoyed reading it. I liked the Seeing India story on the Cauvery; my paternal ancestors belonged to the area near Trichy, and it struck a chord. Also, the short piece on Mizoram was good to see as the northeast gets little intelligent coverage in the media. And I was touched by how Raageshwari has overcome the challenges that came her way – I remember her as a bubbly anchor.” Prof. Rishikesha Krishnan, IIM Bengaluru

Look out for icons On our website and our magazine we are now using the five icons below to help guide you through the contents. They are based on our five areas where Culturama can really help – giving you an insight into India, its life and culture; finding you great places to shop and fun things to do to enrich your Indian experience; helping you find a home; and connecting you to new friends.

Errata It has been brought to our notice that the word under 'K' in the A-Z on Slang in the September issue of Culturama has inappropriate connotations. It is never to be used in polite circles.We apologise for any embarrassment it may have caused our readers

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Culturama’s contributors 01 Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffeetable books. 02 Harini Sankaranarayanan is an ardent foodie and a professional chocolatier. She has a degree in Hotel Management, English literature and theatre.

05 Neil Miller is Head of CrossCultural Services at Global Adjustments. He is an American and has been living in Chennai for the past two years. 06 Eknath Easwaran (1910— 1999) was a spiritual teacher, author and founder of the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation in California. www.easwaran.org

03 Ian Watkinson is a wrestler of words, a cooker of curries, a dabbler with the tabla, a persistent photographer and haphazard historian. 04 Bindu Menon is Country Head of Relocation Services at Global Adjustments. She is a reader of books, traveller of lands, and an India enthusiast.

07 Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. www.devdutt.com 08 Anita Krishnaswamy is President of Global Adjustments and a relocation expert. She has years of experience working with expat clients across the country.

Advisory Board members 09 N Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editorin-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu. 10 Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

11 Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan. Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture. 12 Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for two years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www.mezzemoments.blogspot.com

13 G Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com 14 Beth Chapman is an American business management consultant living in Bengaluru. Former President of the city’s Overseas Women’s Club, Beth is an Indian culture aficionado.

15 Diane Chatterjee is a Scottish insurance professional who has lived in Mumbai for the past seven years. Besides indulging her passion for Indian travel, craft and cuisine, she has been on the Board of Mumbai Connexions, a society for expats. 16 Marcel Van Mourik is a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years. Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture.

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On the Cover

Contents Journeys into India

Seeing India

Explore the path of the river Indus on a thundering Bullet and soar high in the colours of Ahmedabad

24 Art struck A look at the contemporary art scene in India

Spotlight

The birth anniversary of Mahatma Gandhi, Father of the Nation

India’s People

10 In focus An exclusive interview with Mansoor Khan, part-filmmaker, partfarmer, and now, part-writer

Thought leaders

Business leaders, Shankar Annaswamy and Sunil Kunte in an inspiring conversation on India's future

India’s Culture 12

A-Z of India

The many ways in which India travels

Short message service

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture

Holistic living

Spiritual guru and teacher, Eknath Easwaran, tells us how to live in the present

From the other side

An expat's viewpoint on the tradition of religious fasting in India

Regulars 30

Look who’s in town

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in India.

Calendars

See what’s going in Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai

Picture story

Unravelling the mysteries of Old Delhi through the camera

At Global Adjustments

One month to go for the Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition!

Global citizen

A cross-cultural perspective to living and working in India

Give to India

Featuring worthy causes across the country

India Writes

A space for India’s abounding world of literature

Relocations and Property 22

In your kitchen

Realty bytes

Prema Srinivasan gives us a glimpse of India’s vegetarian history

Practical advice from Global Adjustments’ relocation expert.

Festival of the Month

The nine-day festival of Navratri

Space and the city

Property listings across the metros.

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Mansoor Khan (centre) with his family

In focus by Praveena Shivram

The greater common good 1 Ace Bollywood director, cheese-maker and farmer, Mansoor Khan is all set to step into the next big role of his life – that of an author with his revolutionary first book, 'The Third Curve' Ask any Indian about Mansoor Khan, and the typical responses you will get would be: "Oh yes, the guy who made Qayamat Se Qayamat Tak (QSQT), right?” or “Isn’t he actor Aamir Khan’s cousin?” or “Oh, I absolutely love his movies! Where is he nowadays, anyway?" The fact that, even after 13 years since his last movie released, people still remember him for his cinema is testimony to Mansoor’s craft that spoke the language of sensitivity, changed the course of Hindi cinema and launched one of the biggest stars we know today. The fact that no one seems to know what he is up to these days, is testimony to Mansoor’s personality that shies away from fame, glamour and image constructs, preferring the call of the wild to the call of the camera. He has been cocooned with his family

Mansoor with his wife, Tina

in his cheese-making farm, Acres Wild, in Conoor, Tamil Nadu, bringing the magic of sustainable living and the pulse of the natural world closer to people through his homestay options. “I think, while I was making my films, I was always planning to run away. I have never been interested in cities and intuitively knew I would live in a farm some day. And ever since I became aware of the concept of Peak Oil (http://tinyurl.com/2jbmh4), it started making sense to me immediately,” says Mansoor. In fact, he has been talking about this for a while, and even wrote a hard-hitting essay on this (Read the essay at www.culturama.in), but it is only after 2008, after the economic downturn, that people began to sit up and take notice and his book, The Third Curve — The End of Growth As We Know It, releasing this month, came to be. But with Mansoor, the passion for truth never wanes, the effort never dips, and most important of all, there are no false expectations. As Benjamin Mee, the man who bought a zoo, said in an interview, “Sometimes all you need is twenty seconds of insane courage ... Literally twenty seconds of just embarrassing bravery. And I promise you, something great will come out of it”. In Mansoor’s case, something great sure did. Reading your essay, one can't help feeling that there is a hint of sadness and bitterness all along. Am I right in sensing that? See, the bitterness and sadness is there, it is something you feel automatically. We are letting go of the things that

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economy, where you live within the energy the earth receives. That is our budget. Instead of relying on that and growing that, we have all but exhausted it to grow a symbolic concept of money. The only thing that grows and doubles and doubles is a cancer cell. We have applied the cancer ideology into our day-to-day thinking. My argument is not that growth is bad, but that in the current model, it is impossible, because real growth is gone and only paper growth exists.

The cheese-making farm at Acres Wild (www.acres-wild.com)

matter, like health and stuff, for a fake model called money growth. We are taking everything — energy capital, social capital, spiritual capital — because of a false notion in our minds that money has to grow. The economics of it just doesn’t make sense. The sadness comes from the fact that people who propagate this growth genuinely believe in it. The bitterness comes from the arrogance of people who think they know how to make the world better. The fundamental point I am trying to make really is that this is just not possible. The very fact that we have based our economic model on a burning model, whether you like it or not, whether I say it or not, the model itself fails. Not because of morality, but because of reality. The essay, and the book, is about energy accounting, the true type of accounting, because energy is the true currency of the universe, not the dollar or the pound or the rupee or the mark. All ecological systems, our rivers, climate, environment, even animals run on this principle of energy accounting. I am not arguing about whether a fridge is bad or not, but will you be able to run these things forever? 250 millions years of stored energy, or stored capital, has been burnt in 150 years. We are running on a deficit and we don’t even factor in these costs in our economic scale. If you drive down to pick up a pack of cigarettes, you are burning 500 years of sunlight, which you never account for. Instead, you only account for the amount it cost you to fill fuel in your car. So you believe money is the big bad wolf? Not at all. We don’t realise that money is just symbolic; it is just a token language. It is useful for exchange. But when we add another value to it, the time value, it becomes unnatural and then it runs into trouble. Not only is the concept of interest a fallacy, but on top of that, we have added the notion that money growth should compound! Money as tokens are useful, but only as a receipt of exchange. That is a steady-state

Do you think a film around this concept would have reached more people, rather than a book? I honestly feel I had to write the book first. It forced me to think through the whole thing completely. I know not many people would read it, but it forms the backbone and gives credibility to what I am trying to say. I could fictionalise it for a movie, and I must admit, it is there in the back of my mind. But as a filmmaker, I have a responsibility and if I tell you something, then I will have to tell you the whole thing, even if you don’t like it and even if it might not be the proper, commercial thing to do. I am very lucky to be saying all this at the right time though, as we can see the effects of it just outside our window. I am not the first and there have been thousands of people before me saying much the same things. I just happen to have a way of condensing and simplifying the thought so the incongruity of the whole concept comes out, that’s all. What do you think we can do, on an everyday basis, to stop this crazy rush we all seem to be in? Join the Transition Movement. It is a different way of thinking, following a completely different set of rules, and it is happening around the world in 800 different organisations. It truly helps you understand energy descent and works towards qualitative change, not quantitative. Which means, it is not about changing all the bulbs in your house to CFL, which is quantitative. But changing the way you think, changing the way the community functions, and changing what you value. 1 4 Listen to Mansoor’s TedTalk here: http://tinyurl.com/oryeudb 2 ‘The Third Curve — The End of Growth as we Know It’ releases October 12 and will be available in all leading bookstores and online stores. Log on to www.mansoorkhan.net for more details on the book.

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A to Z of India

by Susan Philip

India travels, public unlimited 1 India has been a dream travel destination in ages past and in modern times, too. Travel within the country offers a galaxy of experiences that will transport you to unique planes of experience. Here’s a quick look at what’s on offer:

Autorickshaws These three-wheeled public transport vehicles are ubiquitous in urban India. Usually a distinctive black and yellow in Chennai, Bengaluru and Mumbai, and green and yellow in Delhi and Kolkata, they could be fitted with metres, but often, hard bargaining has to be done on the fare. Also known as tuk-tuks, they seat three plus the driver.

Cars The Ambassador from the Hindustan Motors' stable was once the undisputed king of Indian roads. A government of India—Suzuki joint venture resulted in the trailblazing Maruti 800, and things accelerated quickly. Now, all

global majors, Ford, Hyundai, Renault, Mitsubishi, Nissan and BMW included have a presence here. Not to forget the Nano, the world’s cheapest four-wheeler, from the house of Tata. For the record, till 1930, India didn’t make cars!

Drivers on call They are a major convenience for those who can’t or don’t want to drive on Indian roads. Multiple agencies in all the big cities supply drivers on hire, so you can travel in the comfort of your own vehicle. You can also hire cars – any make or model.

Environmental issues

reduce vehicular pollution and introduced emission control laws as well as environmentfriendly technologies. Batteryand CNG-operated vehicles are slowly registering a presence.

Frequent flyers Till recently, India had only two airlines, both state-owned. However, the open sky policy has spawned multiple private domestic players. Tier I and II cities are well connected by air. There are low-cost, no frills airlines, as well as ones that pamper passengers. Flying was once a luxury available only to the creamy layer, but with economic growth, flyer profiles have changed dramatically.

In its efforts to go green, India has taken note of the need to

Buses

Grand Trunk Road If roads could talk, this one would fill volumes! It's 2,600 kilometres stretched across what are now India, Pakistan and Afghanistan, and connected Kolkata with Kabul in the 16th century. It was of major political and economic significance all those years ago, and its importance continues. With only slight realignments, the Indian sections of the road are now known as National Highways 1 and 2.

Hitch hiking It's not safe in India. Neither hitch a ride yourself nor take a hitch-hiker into your vehicle.

Indian travel idiosyncrasies

There are many. Our propensity to overload is one. ‘Be Prepared They're good for both short-and (for any eventuality)’ is the long-distance travel, and are run motto of the Indian, whether on by the government as well as a trip to the beach, a weekend the private sector. There’s a wide vacation or an overseas training choice: air-conditioned, low-floor, programme. Superstitions are double-decker, with bunk beds. another. There are good and bad Chennai has Asia’s largest bus times to embark on a journey, terminus, Koyambedu, and the omens that presage a successful Andhra Pradesh Road Transport trip or otherwise, and ways to Corporation holds a Guinness Book ward off possible danger. record for the world’s largest fleet. Photo Ligang Chen, USA

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Juggernaut

Palanquins

That's one of India’s contributions to the travel dictionary. The English word, which has come to mean an unstoppable vehicle that rolls over everything in its path, originated from the temple chariot of Lord Jagganath in Puri, Odisha. The heavy chariot is pulled by devotees during the temple festival, and sometimes, accidents happen.

They're synonymous with exotic India. The elite, particularly women, in ancient India and even during the British era used them. These litters, or covered seats on poles carried by men on their shoulders, can still be seen on the steep Himalayan pilgrim trails. In cities, it gave place to hand-pulled rickshaws, which in turn were replaced by cycle rickshaws. Other exotic ancient modes of transport included elephants and horsedrawn carriages. Camels are still used in the deserts of Rajasthan.

Kos Minars They were milestones erected on main highways in medieval India. ‘Kos’ is a unit of distance, around 3 km, and ‘minar’ means tower. These towers were important signposts in the Moghul Empire. Though most have fallen into disrepair, some minars still stand.

Landmarks Modern Indian landmarks on the transport scene include the Bandra–Worli sea link, the Kolkata Metro, the BEST bus service in Mumbai and Delhi’s Terminal 3.

Mass rapid transit systems Burgeoning cities and population have focused

Photo Kate Nash, UK

attention on mass public transport, and many cities have either implemented or are planning Metro Rail, Mono Rail and Light Rail systems. The Delhi Metro is the world’s first railway project registered by the UN for carbon credits.

National Highways Authority of India This government body is responsible for the development, maintenance and management of national highways, which stretch across 71,772 km and serves as the arterial network of the country.

Queues Queues are a notion India doesn’t understand very well in its transport systems coming from a country of scarcity, and a large population. Traffic flows like water finding its level, lane discipline is wanting and a gap in a queue will get filled by jostlers. However, women will often have their own queue in most places.

Railways The country has one of the world’s largest rail networks, and transports roughly 25 million people daily. There are long-distance, suburban and freight trains, different classes of passenger accommodation,

trains that travel at different speeds and feature-heavy trains as well as no-frills ones. For a dream journey, hop aboard the Palace on Wheels in Rajasthan.

Ships and Sails Indian maritime history goes back a long way. The Rig Vedas mention ships. Kozhikode in Kerala was an ancient shipbuilding centre which undertook foreign commissions. Trade was carried on with Europe and the Middle East from thriving ports in medieval times. Inland waterways are still important transportation routes.

Ordinary man’s transport In rural India, bullock carts are still common and farmers often find that tractors come in handy to transport large groups of people. In cities, people use local bus services, share autos or metre taxis and mini buses for point-to-point travel.

Photo Tineke Sysmans, Belgium

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Young India’s preference In a word — two-wheelers. From Harley Davidsons to the humble, simple bicycle, from ‘mopeds’ to funky-hued ‘scootys’, India’s youth love anything on two wheels.

Photo Galina Zagumennova, Russia

Trams They were introduced in India by the British. Horse-drawn ones were replaced by vehicles that ran on electricity. Kolkata, Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai all had them, but all except the first have since discontinued the public transport service.

Victoria gaadi This is the name given to horse-drawn carriages, especially used in Mumbai’s well known Nariman point hugging the Arabian sea. These ornate carriages form a great tourist attraction.

This country has everything to offer the dedicated traveller. The modes of transport may be conventional or not; take anything that comes handy, even if it means clinging to a wayward donkey on a steep mountain trail or chugging along on a toy train. Chalk it up to adventure.

Walking That was the traditional mode of travel in India (as the world over) in ancient times. Even the postal service used ‘runners’. Mail was delivered by men working in relays, who crossed the harshest and most dangerous of terrain, with nothing more than a bell and a staff for protection.

X-ploring India

Utility vehicles

Photo Eric Rousseo, France

This is a growing segment in India. The industry has noticed an increased demand, and both Indian and foreign players are firming up plans to roll out new models this year. Watch out for offerings from Mahindra & Mahindra, Ford and Maruti.

Photo Michelle Klakulak, USA

Zooming off The sky is not the limit for India. The Indian Space Research Organisation has, in its Vision 2025, put human space flight on its agenda. Get set for the countdown.

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SMS 16

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by Suzanne McNeill Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Crafts of India Terracotta roof-tile making from Odisha The town of Sonepur in the eastern state of Odisha is sited at the confluence of the Mahanadi and Tel Nadi rivers. Using red and black clay gathered from the riverbank, Sonepur’s potters craft a style of cylindrical terracotta roof tile that is uniquely decorated with figures of birds and animals. They shape hollow ‘tubes’ on a potter’s wheel, perhaps 200 mm in diameter and raised to a height of around 300 mm to 400 mm. These are removed and cut in half lengthways, creating two long semi-circular cylindrical tiles. The animal figures are moulded separately, birds, squirrels, monkeys and mice being the most popular choice. All the detailing is done by hand, creating forms that are fluid and mobile, and full of expression. These are fixed to the top of the tile, which is then fired. It is said the tradition originated in the forested regions of the area, where the figures act as ‘scarecrows’ to scare away wild animals.

Textile Pochampally from Andhra Pradesh Pochampally, 50 km from Hyderabad, is at the heart of a cluster of 100 or so villages renowned for weaving highly intricate ikkat designs in silk and cotton. Ikkat is a craft in which instead of dyeing the finished fabric, the individual warp and weft threads are each dyed in a predetermined design and colour, using the tie-and-dye method of resist dyeing. A sequence of bindings that resist dye penetration are applied to the threads in the desired patterns. These are removed when all the dyeing is finished, and then the threads are ready to be woven in accordance with the design into cloth using handlooms. It is a long, complex and highly skilled process that ensures the fabric’s design is identical on both sides of the fabric. Designs are geometric or abstract, and Pochampally saris are known for their sheen and their bold and vibrant colours. Photo www.desicraftshop.blogspot.in

Photo Marina Marangos, Greek-Cypriot

Language Maithili of Bihar The Indian census of 2001 records 12,178,673 speakers of Maithili, most of whom live in northern Bihar. The name Maithili is derived from ‘Mithila’, an ancient kingdom ruled by King Janaka, a major figure in the Ramayan. The language came into its own during the medieval period. It is said that scholars used Sanskrit for their literary work, whilst Maithili was the language of the common folk, but this changed when the poet Vidyapati (1350—1450) chose to write his love songs of Radha and Krishna in the vernacular. Maithili was described as a distinct dialect in 1801 and scholars from the British Raj studied and transcribed the grammar and speech sounds of the language during the 19th century. Their work was taken up by Indian linguists, and Maithili is now one of the national languages of India following a mass movement for its recognition. Get to know a Bihari friend by asking, ‘Aahan ke naam kee chee?’ — ‘What is your name?’

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Photo Francois Daniele, France

Art Phad painting of Rajasthan

Words Dubba versus Dhaba

The name phad refers both to the piece of cloth on which this style of folk art is painted (phad means ‘fold’) and a narrative folk theatre that is performed before the phad by bhopas, priest-singers, who travel from village to village across Rajasthan. The phads depict numerous episodes from native folk tales, usually stories of the local deities, which are painted in ritualistic fashion by professional phad painters called chitera. The surface of the coarse, cotton fabric is prepared with white paste, and simple folk-style images are built up using natural pigments: orange for the figures, yellow for ornamentation, green for vegetation, brown for structures and red for royal clothing and flags. Every available inch of the canvas is crowded with figures of kings, attendants, dancers, elephants and horses. The bhopas perform their epic narratives in front of the paintings at night, illuminating each scene with lamps and bringing the stories to life.

Dubbah is a slang word that in Tamil refers in a mocking way to someone who learns things by rote. When spoken in the city of Mumbai, ‘dubbah’ means ‘useless’, as in ‘He has a dubbah car’. The word also means ‘tin’ or ‘metal box’ in India. Residents in the city of Mumbai will be familiar with the dabbawalas, who collect and distribute the metal tiffin boxes containing their lunch to thousands of office workers. Dhaba, meanwhile, is the name given to the simple restaurants found along highways in northern India serving Punjabi food to truck drivers. The food, which is heavily spiced and often fried, is authentic and cheap, and the stops provide truckers with the opportunity to rest, eat and engage in noisy conversation. In fact, the word has been adopted by restaurants in the United States and Europe to represent any cuisine deriving from the Indian sub-continent.

Photo www.efabula.com

Past Influencer Shakuntala Devi Shakuntala Devi was a mathematical wizard who became known as ‘the human computer’ for her gift of making calculations incredibly quickly in her head. Her ability to memorise numbers had become apparent as a child playing card games with her father, and by the age of six she had displayed her numerical prowess at the University of Mysore, despite having no formal education. She spent much of her life on the road, demonstrating her talents. In 1977, in the United States, she calculated the 23rd root of a 201-digit number in less than a minute, and in the United Kingdom in 1980 she correctly multiplied two 13-digit numbers in 28 seconds, earning her a place in the 1982 Guinness Book of Records. She wrote a number of books with titles like Fun with Numbers and Puzzles to Puzzle You and had an alternative career as a successful astrologer. She died this year in April.

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Tribes of India Mahadeo Koli Tribe Photo www.grassroutes.co.in

The Mahadeo Koli tribe take their name from their association with places sacred to Lord Mahadevo (a name for Lord Shiva), in the high peaks of Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra. One of many offshoots of the region’s clan systems, the Mahadeo Koli enjoy a high social position amongst the other Scheduled Tribes and Castes of western India. Their communities are patriarchal, with inheritance through the male line only, and village affairs and disputes are settled by panchas, informal groups of elders. Agricultural labour forms the Mahadeo Koli’s main occupation, but the limited income is supplemented by breeding cattle and selling dairy products. Most follow Hindu traditions and religious belief, with the addition of tribal deities who are believed to protect them from evil spirits. Music and folk songs play a large role in the lives of the women. The Mahadeo Koli are gradually losing their tribal pattern of life with the increasing contact with urban life and education (for boys).

Urban adventure Posta Bazaar

Photo Francois Boulle, France

India's lively, crowded wholesale markets are exhilarating places to visit, and not for the faint-hearted! Posta Bazaar, on the north-west corner of north Kolkata’s sprawling Barabazaar, is part of an area that has always hosted trading communities from around India and beyond, and it is here that the city’s prosperous Bengali merchant families created their palaces or raj baris in the 19th century. Barabazaar’s original trade in yarns and textiles has expanded into one of India’s largest general wholesale markets, each area delineated into katras (markets) that specialise in a particular commodity. Posta is the dedicated market for foodstuffs including potatoes, lentils and onions, cereals, spices and sugar, carried in and out of the market on handcarts, bicycle carts, trucks, and on the backs of fastmoving porters — be prepared to jump out of the way quickly!

Interpretations Ayudha Puja is celebrated as part of the nine-day Navratri festival across the southern states of India, and particularly Tamil Nadu. It means ‘worship of implements’ and on this day all the tools of trade are venerated, from machinery, cars and computers to books and musical instruments. Splashes of sandalwood and turmeric paste, which are integral to Hindu rituals and ceremonies, are used to anoint the implements, plus a dot of red kumkum for good luck. The puja, which grew out of a tradition of soldiers venerating their weapons of warfare, focuses attention on an individual’s profession and the tools used to achieve success, in recognition of the divine force that pervades all. In the North, such overtly splashy displays of anointment and decoration may be rare, but venerating tools of the trade is still practised. Photo Erica Bachmann, USA

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October 2013

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In your kitchen by Harini Sankaranarayanan

Booked cooked & hooked 1 Prema Srinivasan’s book, ‘Pure Vegetarian’, gives us a glimpse of India’s vegetarian history, both culturally and geographically. Add to that over a 100 recipes, and you have the epitome of the perfect cookbook

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Kondaikadalai Sundal 500 gm Garbanzo beans or chickpeas 7 cups of water for cooking 1 tbs salt 1 tbs lime juice Seasoning 1 tbsp oil ½ tsp whole mustard seeds ½ tsp black gram dal 4 dried red chillies 1 pinch asafoetida powder 1 sprig curry leaves 1 tbsp finely chopped ginger ½ tbsp finely chopped green chillies 2 tbsp freshly grated coconut 1 tbsp finely chopped unripe mango (optional) Method – Soak the dehydrated beans overnight. Drain and pressure cook* with salt and 7 cups of water for about 20 minutes. – Heat oil in a wok and add the mustard seeds. Wait till they splutter and add the remaining seasoning and sauté for a minute or two. – Add the cooked, drained beans and stir. – Remove from the fire and add lime juice. – Mix well and serve.

*One lakh is equivalent to a hundred thousand

As we traced the quintessence of India’s many communities in the last year in Culturama, one of the things that never ceased to amaze us was the sheer variety that India’s vegetarian palette offered. So when Prema Srinivasan, the matriarch of the TVS family in India, launched her book titled ‘Pure Vegetarian’, we thought there wouldn’t be much that we hadn’t already covered. But when faced with the heavy tome in our hands and the quiet magnetism of Prema Srinivasan herself, who, among several insightful nuggets of information, tells us, “Did you know that during the Vedic period in India there were more than four lakh* varieties of rice? And that today there are two lakh varieties?” we realise how absolutely wrong we were. While food of different communities told us how people perceived the food handed down over generations, Prema Srinivasan gives us that rare window into how India herself perceives her food. The country is often described as a mighty river that is fed by different tributaries, one of which is the common practice of vegetarianism. For many communities in India, as we discovered, this is a way of life and not really a conscious decision or choice. These communities do not use vegetables as a substitute for meat, nor do they cook it like they would a meat substitute. Instead, they have evolved methods and recipes to enhance the flavour of the produce they will be eating. This is what Prema Srinivasan calls “Pure vegetarian food”. For Prema, growing up in Mylapore, Chennai, meant that she grew up in the cradle of culture and vegetarianism. In her orthodox middle class family, the strongest influence was her grandfather whose love for food dictated the menu in her house and in course of time, Prema’s romance with food. Growing up, the food was always simple, wholesome and vegetarian. The culmination of this tryst with food resulted in this book published by Westland Ltd., where Prema sees the cuisines of different communities of India “bound together by common threads of spice,

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herbs, vegetables, and cereals.” “Spinach, for instance, can be cooked in so many different ways,” claims Prema. “It’s just a matter of a little tweaking of spices or herbs that changes the complexity of the dish. Kerala might use more of coconut, Andhra might go with chillies or Bengalis may use a dash of mustard oil. Sometimes whole recipes get adapted and become a common dish in many states and communities. The Mitha Chawal or sweetened rice of Rajasthan travelled all the way to Tamil Nadu to become Kesari Bhat,” explains Prema, who has spent the last decade researching for this book. Another interesting fact that Prema emphasises is the aspect of Ayurveda in the vegetarian meal. “Certain spices are medicinal in nature and adding it to the food balances the humours,” she says. Sprinkled right through the book are interesting little anecdotes not just about how different recipes are adapted, but also an exploration of the etymology of different names of dishes and how they came to grace our table today. For those who think that vegetarian food is limited in its appeal and that most Indian food is smothered in nondescript yellow/red gravy, even a cursory look through the pages will change their mind. The belief that the food we eat nourishes not only our body but also our spiritual energy is a well-established thought in Indian culture. It is common then to find that even hard-core meat eaters practicing vegetarianism on certain days of the month. With the onset of the festive season, various families all over the country will bring out their traditional family recipes not only as an offering to the Gods but also to celebrate the joy of living. For instance, the Sundal is a perennial favourite during the Navratri festival in the South, but it is also extremely nutritious. Simple to make, delicious and extremely nutritious, one can vary the flavours by using different beans. Do try substituting the garbanzo beans with broad beans, black eyed peas or even the ever present green peas. 1

October 2013

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Feature by Suzanne McNeill

Art struck 1 Contemporary art in India is an ocean of colours, textures, interpretations, traditions and perceptions. We present just a drop in this ocean, but one that resonates with Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s abounding talent firmly rooted in an ethos that is deliciously exciting and evolving

Parag Adhikari

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The style and the reach of contemporary art in India may surprise visitors to the country (and its value will do so, too). For many, Indian art is synonymous with bronze sculptures, architectural masterpieces and the golden age of Rajasthani miniature painting. They may also be familiar with the exotic scenes produced for the British market in the 19th century, known as ‘Company Paintings’ (after the East India Company), or the Westernised romantic images depicting scenes from the epics or village life by Raja Ravi Varma at the turn of the 20th century. This artistic legacy remains everpresent; however, Indian art has evolved dramatically over the past one hundred years as its artists have broken with these traditions to respond to the modern world in diverse and ambitious ways. The Progressive Artists’ Group, formed in 1947, called for a total break with the cultural and artistic constraints of the past. The members, who included later luminaries such as MF Husain, SH Raza, FN Souza and HA Gade, wanted to create an art entirely Indian and modern. This period gave rise to the major forces in the world of modern Indian art, the painters who began their careers in the 1960s. Some are still in their prime, producing works of originality and substance. The contemporary art scene changes constantly, but in this feature we offer an introduction to a number of newlyestablished artists working today. This is a highly selective list — we could have chosen many other artists — but we hope it will provide some insight into India’s contemporary art world by highlighting their artistic heritage, the medium in which they work, and the concerns they are trying to express. We encourage our readers to search out many more.

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Nupur Kundu

Figure Painting External Form and Inner Emotion India has a strong tradition of depicting the human figure: the bronzes of the Chola period and the carvings of Khajuraho helped form this legacy. The representation of the figure in contemporary Indian painting has undergone many changes of style since Raja Ravi Varma painted Indian gods and goddesses in the European tradition at the turn of the last century. Bengali folk art inspired mid-century artist Jamini Roy to abandon his classical training for a simpler idiom. K S Kulkarni, one of the masters of Indian modern art, painted semi-abstracts of the human form, whilst Manjit Bawa moulds his simplistic figures using rich colour and tone. The 1970s was a period of pain and fragmentation for the country, which was reflected in the work of a generation of figurative artists who came to maturity during this

Tapan Mitra

period. Now, a younger generation responds instead to the globalisation of modern life, and its frenetic pace, with figures who stand in isolation, or whose personal despair suggests a torn world. Sekhar Roy’s figurative paintings echo this need for solitude and silence, and a central theme of his work is a reflection on the nature of human existence and the turbulence of human life. The blues and browns he employs give an otherworldly effect, expressing mystery as well as a sense of alienation. Atin Basak’s works also evoke a need to escape the oppression of too many people: ‘Notes of Silence’, ‘The Shadow’ and ‘Hermit’ are the titles given to works he has

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exhibited recently. Basak grew up immersed in the fairy tales and mythology of India and his works reflect his inner life with dreamlike themes that may refer to the unsettling events of childhood. Recent works represent the beliefs and way of life in the East, depicting recluses and sages who stand alone and appear to have a wisdom that allows them to live apart. Sonia Mehra Chawla is another who creates dreamlike visions, mixing her figures with plant- and animal-life, with organic forms and urban landscapes. But rather than stressing the alienation of the individual, she is concerned with the ongoing process of transformation and renewal that links the natural and urban environment to the individual. Her works combine accurate representation and fantasy elements. Figures that are photo-realistic in style are entwined in arteries that become leads or entangled in the shoots of graphic-style plants. Disembodied animal and plant life float above the figures’ heads, layered against strange, organic shapes. There is a sense of decay, but also regeneration.

Landscape Painting Visions of the Natural Word The ‘Oriental Scenes’ painted by Thomas and William Daniell from 1786 to 1794 during their travels around the Indian subcontinent have long influenced Europeans’ perceptions of the Indian landscape. The delicate aquatints depict an exotic countryside ennobled by magnificent antiquities and made the more picturesque by elephants and palm trees in a manner that is highly romantic and conventional. Within the Indian tradition of miniature painting, the landscapes are stylised and two-dimensional, but the influence of Western artists led to increased realism in Indian works. As art became increasingly nonrepresentational during the 20th century, Indian landscape painting moved towards the abstract with colour or style taking precedence over the usual elements of the genre. Ram

Kumar is one such artist whose brilliant work has journeyed from impressionism to fragmented landscape, Bimal DasGupta another. The new wave of landscape artists that we look at here, however, has returned to the conventional landscape as their starting point, depicting scenes from villages, forests and seashores. Parag Adhikari works in watercolour, using restrained and complementary colour palettes of greys, browns and gold, and creates paintings that are filled with ethereal light that adds breadth and space to his canvases. His skies are stormy, or caught at twilight, and shed deep shadows onto the human endeavour that seems dwarfed by the natural world around it, and which he captures with delicate strokes. Tapan Mitra’s vision of the natural world is more graphically stylised, folk-like in form. The two-dimensional forms of his trees, the undulations of the hills and the flights of his birds fill the canvas in a sequence of patterns, almost like paisley, as they recede to the far-off horizon, integrating to suggest the artist’s vision of the unity of nature. The curving lines of foliage and the deliberate distortion of scale seem to echo the landscapes from India’s tradition of silk painting. The landscapes of Shuvankar Maitra are, by contrast, focused on one small patch of forest, one small group of trees, even one specimen within that group. His colour palette is bright and vivid, heightening the reality he sees before him, and delineating the minute details of light and shade as it falls on his subject matter. His technique is deceptively simple, almost naïve, yet the paintings suggest shadowed background and the dark places of the forest.

Abstract Painting A Pictorial Language For many art lovers, their response to abstract works is instinctive and subjective, sometimes based on no more than the harmony or clash of colour, and the symmetry or randomness

T Athiveera Pandian

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of shape. There is meaning, of course. Indian abstract art is often inspired by traditional cultural symbols, as depicted by two mid20th century greats: SH Raza’s colourful geometrical forms take as their inspiration the bindu, or seed, and GR Santosh’s Tantrik paintings were drawn from the spiritual union of male and female, mithuna. The more contemporary works of Sujata Bajaj, however, are a gorgeous riot of colour and line, vivid expressions of energy and emotion. Nupur Kundu paints equally vigorous abstracts, vibrant compositions that are a mosaic of colour and texture combining to create a landscape without form. Her inspiration comes from the natural world around her, which she translates onto large canvases, building layer upon layer of oil paint, and disrupting the finish into patterns by stippling or smearing the paint, or carving out pattern with a spatula. Her works suggest rhythm and movement, and the colours of her work are always beautifully harmonised, whether vibrant reds, yellows and ochres, or muted blues and greens. In contrast, the abstract works of Madhuri Kathe have an air of veiled mystery and stillness. They are light, almost ethereal, and executed using exquisite colour palettes that are based on panchtattwa, the five elements from which life

October 2013

Shuvankar Maitra

evolves comprising earth, water, light, wind and sky. Dramatic expression is the hallmark of the abstract works of T Athiveera Pandian. His compositions are compelling and powerful. He applies his pure colours with forceful strokes, often allowing the paint to drip and slide, mixing to suggest the shifting, unsolid forms of nature that can just be visualised in his works. There is control, however, beneath the exuberance, and as with the other artists highlighted here, poetry in the works that draws in the viewer.

Digital and Mixed Media Evolving Art Forms India’s young generation of artists have adopted with enthusiasm the opportunities offered by the range of new media in the digital age to explore complex issues in contemporary India. Their work often focuses on the urban environment, juxtaposing the country’s incredible technological growth with its apparently unchanging traditions and decaying urban environments. A leader in this field is Jitish Kallat, whose early figurative paintings were enhanced by photography and collage. Small motifs and graphic elements seem to appear randomly in one or other corner, but often link back to

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Links to featured artists previous works. In recent years, his style has become more challenging as he has moved into installation works in various media. The rickshaw has become a recurring motif of the lack of harmony in urban life; in the series of themed exhibitions ‘Rickshawpolis’, he has produced paintings showing the claustrophobia of city life overtaken by colliding and battered vehicles, photographs documenting the remains of vehicles. Documentary maker Amar Kanwar makes films and installations that speak of contemporary experience, and that connect the personal stories of people with the wider politics of power and justice. One such exhibit featured numerous screens that surrounded the viewer with films telling narratives, the common theme of which was the fate of women caught amidst religious and racial intolerance. Critics talk of his work as offering ‘visual essays’ rather than a direct representation of the violence he studies, offering a space for the viewer to contemplate the artist’s philosophy and message. Sakshi Gupta has used industrial materials such as scrap metals, recycled tar drums and plastic sheeting to produce sculpture that provides a nuanced commentary on discarded items. These works can be seen as a commentary on the world around her, and highlight the shift from heavy industry to the contemporary world of information and technology. We hope you’re encouraged to go home with some authentic works of art. Here are some tips to stay on top of the Indian art scene: • There are numerous small and not-sosmall commercial galleries in all India’s metros. Keep an eye out for exhibitions, and make frequent visits.

• Chat to gallery owners — many will be more than happy to show you their backroom stock, as well as talk you through the works on display. • If you get an invite to an exhibition launch party, go! • Check out the schools and institutions of art in your city, too, including JJ School of Art and the Jehangir Art Gallery, both Mumbai; Lalit Kala Academy in New Delhi (with branches in Chennai, Kolkata and Bengaluru); the Birla Academy of Art and Culture and CIMA (Centre of International Modern Art), both Kolkata; and the Cholamandalam Artists’ Village in Chennai. • India Art Fair, held in New Delhi, is South Asia’s largest annual exhibition and showcases Indian and international art. • Several of India’s upmarket hotel chains have invested in contemporary art, which is displayed in the hotel lobbies and dining rooms — take time to check it out. • A new frame can transform a painting that might have lived in a stockroom for a few years. There are plenty of excellent framers to be found in the cities. • Saffronart.com is a great website for checking artists’ works, profiles and prices. The Dictionary of Indian Art & Artists by Pratima Sheth, published by Mapin Publishing, focuses on the evolution and context of Indian art, and is an excellent reference work. • Finally, buy what you like – there is no right or wrong! The piece may or may not appreciate in value, but you will appreciate it for the rest of your life. 1

Sekhar Roy http://tinyurl.com/SekharRoy Atin Basak http://tinyurl.com/ABasak Sonia Mehra Chawla http://tinyurl.com/SMChawla Parag Adhikari http://tinyurl.com/PAdhikari Tapan Mitra http://tinyurl.com/TMitra Shuvankar Maitra http://tinyurl.com/SMaitra Nupur Kundu http://tinyurl.com/NupurKundu Madhuri Kathe http://tinyurl.com/MKathe T Athiveerapandian http://tinyurl.com/TPandian Jitish Kallat http://tinyurl.com/JKallat Amar Kanwar http://tinyurl.com/AKanwar Sakshi Gupta http://tinyurl.com/SakshiGupta

Jitish Kallat

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October 2013

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Joanna and her daughter at Rishikesh and at Sikkim (inset)

Camp India Look who’s in town New Delhi 1 Canadian Joanna Biggs, who lives in New Delhi, shows us the joy and the hiccups that come along while travelling with children in India

Been there, done that, would very well describe Canadian Joanna Biggs and her family’s travels in India. With her daughters, a four-year-old and a two-year-old in tow, Joanna has been everywhere, from the beaches of Chennai to camping in Rishikesh. “Even though you are not likely to find things such as children’s menus in restaurants, high chairs, paved walking areas for pushing a stroller or for small feet to walk on, I do feel that I am welcome here to take my children everywhere and people will not only interact with them, but be very kind and helpful,” she says. Thoughts of their travels gets Joanna laughing at one particularly amusing (and perhaps, distressing!) memory, “At the Wagah border crossing near Amritsar, my husband was being searched by heavily armed guards with our two-year-old daughter strapped to his back in the carrier. We weren’t sure her grandparents would see the humour in that situation!” And that’s why we couldn’t think of a better person to guide us on travelling with children in India! The Indian Adventure Our best family holiday so far in India has been camping on the shores of the Ganges in Rishikesh with friends. The camp we used was very safety conscious with children being near the water, and the kids loved being able to run in and out of the water and play in the sand. I also highly recommend Sikkim, particularly Gangtok, the

capital. It’s the only city I’ve seen in India where you can easily push a stroller through the entire town (and also not see a single piece of rubbish!) Our daughter loved the Himalayan Zoological Park and seeing the rare red pandas, and we had a great family day out at the Kangchenjunga Tourist Villa, which had rides and a playground for children. Another family favourite is the stretch of beaches and villages between Chennai and Pondicherry in Tamil Nadu. We stayed at a lovely hotel with an expanse of private, white, clean sandy beach. Backpack Tips If you have small children, always take an excellent backpack child carrier with you. Be sure to pack food if you are not sure what kinds of food will be available, as well as a first-aid kid, water purifying tablets, mosquito nets, and extra clothes. I am also careful to check weather conditions as seasons can vary so much in India. When in Canada Canada is a great place to expose children of all ages to outdoor holidays such as cottage life, camping, canoeing, hiking, and mountain biking, and winter sports such as skating, ice hockey, and skiing. Canadians take a lot of pride in their outdoor spaces, and are quite opposed to littering, so it’s a great place to teach children about keeping our environment clean. 1

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October 2013

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Chef Fabien in his kitchen and with his family (inset)

Ace of cakes Look who’s in town Chennai 1 Fabien Berteau, the Executive Pastry Chef at Park Hyatt Chennai, takes us through the highs and the lows of desserts in the city

When you meet the Executive Pastry Chef, you immediately imagine him or her surrounded by rows and rows of delectable, sinfully rich, and utterly delicious pastries. And the chef, with an amiable smile and grand gestures, telling you that it is no big deal to be working with such temptation all around. In Chef Fabien Berteau’s case, well, the rows of pastries morph into a tasteful counter at Park Hyatt Chennai. But the amiable smile and grand gestures are aplenty. “In France, where I come from, it is a tradition to buy cake on a Sunday and share it with your family and friends,” he says with a twinkle in his eyes. We absolutely believe him, of course, because in India, we buy sweets or serve dessert at the end of every meal! To that rejoinder, he smiles again and adds, “Yes, I love the Indian dessert, Gulab Jamun. For me, that is pretty unique. The image that comes to my mind when I think of Indian desserts is something similar to the Arabic desserts. They are colourful and of such different shapes that it is hard to forget them once you have seen, and eaten them, of course.” And with that, this pastry chef takes us on a dessert safari in Chennai. Chennai Connection It is good that Chennai is growing, especially in the hospitality sector. I can see the change in the last eight months of being here. Look at

the number of hotels opened in that time! It is a city for a lot of opportunities, not only in the hospitality sector but automobiles, IT, etc. My first impression of the city remains – it is busy, it is hot and it is full of energy and a rich, cultural heritage. French Connection Apple Tatin Tart is a classic dessert in France, and it is made all around the world. So, when you talk about desserts in India, there isn’t much that has changed from what I am used to because all the ingredients are available now in India and I could make you a great Apple Tatin Tart, French style, right here! Chennai Sweet Points 01. Park Hyatt Chennai 02. Baker’s Street, Pondicherry 03. Adyar Anandha Bhavan Pastry Shop in Velachery When in France France is known for their desserts, so I would say try everything. The places I would recommend are the Park Hyatt Vendome Paris for dinner, Ladurée, Pastry shop in Paris for desserts, and Hotel Plaza Athenee in Paris for high tea. 1

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October 2013

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Look who’s in town Bengaluru

Paws & effect

Photos Sathya Harshan, India

Of all the analogies we have heard from expats moving into India about the everyday chaos of the country, Beth Chapman’s has got to be the best and perhaps, the most accurate! “India is like a pouty two-year-old on a bad day: throws temper tantrums to drive you mad and can melt your heart with one smile. And I love it here. I find I have missed the traffic sounds, the crackers at all hours, the cows on the road, the temple bells and masjid calls to prayer when I have been away. They are the sounds of home,” she says, ruffling her Cocker Spaniel, Tikka’s head playfully. And that innocuous and unconscious gesture becomes the perfect picture of what she means, because home is really where the heart is, and Chapman’s is undoubtedly in India. And that’s why, despite the paperwork, it was worth bringing Tikka and her pet cat along. As Beth explains simply, “Your pet is your family. You would no sooner leave your child behind. Do the necessary paperwork. Pay the fees. Bring your pet. He or she will love it here. Bengaluru is quite lovely for pets. There are parks, puppy play groups, pet-friendly restaurants and hotels,” she says. Here are her tips for making your pet fall in love with “namma Bengaluru”, too!

Beth and Tikka enjoy a cosy weekend tete-a-tete

1 American Beth Chapman, one of Culturama’s advisory board members, on pets, vets, and tips on keeping that special family member happy!

Pet Talk There are many excellent vets, pet shops, kennels and specialty bakers available in Bengaluru. In Whitefield, Bangalore Pet Hospital is staffed by veterinarians who have trained in India and abroad and import much of their equipment and store stock. PAWS, the Pet Store in Ashok Nagar has a full range of fancy food, bedding, toys, rhinestone collars, and everything you could possibly dream of — plus they deliver! Restauranteur Shruti Saha, tired of the food business, turned her efforts to baking for dogs. Seriously. Find Bone Appetite on Facebook for more information. As for grooming, well, my dog Tikka is a bit of a nut. She loves baths; she hates being brushed. She bites. How embarrassing! But the people at Wiggles & Wags in Indiranagar manage her with grace, even without a chain. Pet Care Tips 1. Make sure your pet gets plenty of exercise. Never tie him/her on a chain, especially not one less than six feet long. Play with your cat, they love it! 2. Pets need plenty of fresh water, change it twice a day. 3. Help your pet keep his or her coat clean with regular brushing. Apply flea and tick medication, as needed. When in the United States In the United States, pet ownership is extraordinarily high in relationship to India—nearly 65% of all households, in fact! And many own more than one. Pets are considered cherished family members, they sleep on the bed, are adored by children, and their benefits as service animals to the blind, deaf, to returning war veterans, senior citizens, school children learning to read, and hospital patients is renowned. In India, culturally, pet ownership is a relatively new phenomenon. But with a blossoming middle class and a true global community, things are beginning to change. 1

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October 2013

Global Wellness Series A young woman of thirty something was once upon a time said to be protected from heart attacks by virtue of her feminine hormones and lifestyle. Not anymore. A recent study conducted by the Cardiological Society of India covering 15,000 patients in New Delhi, showed a 50% rise in the number of women suffering from cardiovascular disease and it also noticed a 50% increase in cardiovascular disease in the 20-30 age groups.

Heart Disease in Women 1 1.2 million Indians die of heart attack every year and the share of women in this is increasing year by year. Dr Joy M Thomas, HOD & Director, Department of Cardiology, Global Hospitals, Chennai, shares some stats and prevention methods

Changing Lifestyles A young woman in India today is most often a software engineer, a bank employee, a teacher, or a state or central government employee. Every morning, she has to prepare breakfast and lunch for all, ensure that her child or children leave for school, and after a full tiring day at work, she gets home to prepare dinner and, more stressfully, oversee her children’s studies. More often, lack of time forces people to have junk food at the office and at home, courtesy home delivery advantages! Apart from the obvious increase in stress such a lifestyle causes, other reasons include smoking, lesser exercise opportunities, and earlier occurrence of menopause. Symptoms to look for For women, more often the pain or discomfort during a heart attack is in the upper tummy rather than the classical left chest, shoulder and arm pain. This is mistaken for a “gas” problem and antacids are what are usually taken. Preventive measures Cardiovascular disease can be prevented in women by regular screenings, around the early thirties, ensured exercise time daily of about 40 minutes four times a week at least, healthy dietary practices and finally, but most importantly, stress reduction. 1

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Look who’s in town Mumbai

The wardrobe store-y One of Sandy’s India moment’s

1 American Sandy Singh points out the quirky corners that are favourite shopping spots for clothes in Mumbai

After a year in Mumbai, American marketing professional Sandy Singh’s biggest concern at the moment is the curious case of the everexpanding wardrobe. “It seems to have expanded disproportionately to my time here! I now need to find a way to get everything back home when it’s time to move back,” she says laughing. Sandy’s job takes her all over India and her wardrobe is witness to this too. Her first shopping experience in Mumbai, however, also gave her a quick peek into the spirit of this redoubtable city. “When I first got to Mumbai, I did go a little overboard on the shopping! After a great day of shopping, I ended up leaving all my bags at a boutique and realised it only when I was almost home. To make matters worse, I was so new to the city that it took me a few tries to finally find the boutique I had left the bags in. Thankfully, it was yet another wonderful Mumbaiker shop owner who was waiting for me with all of my stuff!” We took furious notes while following her around on her shopping finds, and here they are. California Calling At home, shopping is as simple as driving to the mall or department store and usually finding everything you need under one (albeit a very large) roof. Here, shopping can be a little more challenging! Where to direct the auto rickshaw depends on whether you want something branded or want to shop in a small boutique. This applies to both Indian and Western wear.

Malling in Mumbai My personal favourites are the small boutiques on the most random streets in Bandra. I try to visit or find new places where I know I can get something unique that speaks to my style. What makes shopping a little easier in Mumbai, as in other cities around India, is the abundance of tailors! My days of finding something that is almost-perfect-but-notquite-right is all but over thanks to the tailors on every street corner. One of my new favourite things to do here is draw out what I want and get it made for me. It’s every girl's dream come true! Lastly, I never rule out a dose of pure Americana – The Mall – it’s still a sure stop when you need a fix of your favourite international brands. Shop Tip 1. Bargain when you need to. All the stories you hear of prices going up when shop owners find out you’re not from India are sadly true, so never accept the first price! 2. If you don’t find what you want, get it made. Find the right tailor, and you can have a wardrobe of exactly what you want, whether it’s a traditional Patiala or a cute summer dress. 3. You can’t have it all, but that’s okay. In Mumbai, there are shops, enticing window displays, humongous posters with the latest designs and people who are dressed absolutely amazing everywhere! It’s easy to get caught-up in a materialistic fantasy, but keep your head on straight and try not to lose your mind! 1

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October 2013

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October Calendar of events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across the cities of Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs

Art & exhibitions

Group Show Chennai ‘Wit/ Humour and the Celluloid’ is an exhibition of paintings that showcases the triangular relationship between art, cinema and humour. The artists in this show use satire and humour to create introspective, engaging and witty works that are completely symptomatic of its times. Call 09941012388 for details. Date October 2 to 28 Venue Apparao Galleries, No.7, Wallace Gardens, 3rd Street, Nungambakkam, Chennai

Exhibition of Indian Miniatures New Delhi The National Museum brings an exhibition of Indian miniature paintings titled ‘RamaKatha; The Story of Rama’. Consisting of 101 masterpieces, the exhibition is an amalgamation of different styles from various regions of India, bringing out the important moments from Lord Rama’s life. Call 011-23018159 for more details. Date Till October 13 Time 1000h to 1900h Venue The National Museum, Janpath, Connaught Place, New Delhi

Photography Exhibition New Delhi ‘Roti, Kapda Aur Makaan’ is a unique art exhibition curated by London-based photographer, Suki Dhanda and organised by British Council. The exhibition is the culmination of a workshop led by the photographer, where participants explored the city of Bengaluru. The photographers have depicted several layers of the concept of homelands in their works. Call 01123711401 for more details. Date Till October 18 Time 0900h to 1900h Venue No. 17, British Council Division, Kasturba Gandhi Marg, Connaught Place, New Delhi

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October 2013

Music, Dance & Theatre

Photography Exhibition Bengaluru

Saayujya Chennai

‘A Journey through Asia’ is an exhibition of photographs by landscape photographer, Michael Kenna. This is his first solo exhibition in India. The black and white photographs take you on a journey through the landscapes of India, Thailand, Vietnam, China, South Korea and Japan. Call 08022128358 for more details.

Aalaap, a performing arts initiative based in Chennai, presents ‘Saayujya’, a collaborative production by India’s leading exponents of music and dance, T. M. Krishna and Priyadarsini Govind. Saayujya, literally meaning merging oneself with the divine, is an exploration of dance through music and music through dance. After a successful run in Mumbai and Bengaluru, Saayujya gets ready to spin its magic in Chennai! For more details, write to aalaap.concepts@gmail.com

Date Till October 30 Time 1000h to 1800h Venue No.26/1, Kasturba Cross Road, Residency Road, Bengaluru

Date October 3 Time 1900h Venue Music Academy, Chennai

International Arts Festival 2013 Bengaluru The sixth edition of the Bengaluru International Arts Festival is here again. The festival showcases a potpourri of music, dance, theatre, and more. The artistes are a mix of legendary and contemporary artistes with performances ranging from Carnatic music, Western music, dance drama and folk performances. Call 080-22342338 for more details. Date Till October 6 Time 1730h onwards Venue National Gallery of Modern Art, No.49, Manikyavelu Mansion, Palace Road, Bengaluru

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and other venues

Workshops & Events

Charity Run Mumbai, Pune, New Delhi Celebrate Gandhijiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s birthday by joining a 10 km run or walk in your city to benefit various NGOs. The entrance fee will be donated to a charity of your choice. The event is organised by Footsteps4Good and is entering its third year in 2013. Visit www.footsteps4good.com for more details or log on to www.culturama. in and read about the run under our Give to India section. Date October 2 Venue Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai; Police Parade Ground, Pune; Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium, New Delhi

Navratri Celebration Chennai Come and watch a display of ancient and new dolls of Gods and Goddesses that are said to walk the earth, as this part of the country celebrates Navratri. There will be live music, explanations about the festival and also traditional snacks. All are welcome to the open house. The event will also host international students under the Indian Council for Cultural Relations. Contact +91 44 24617915 for details. Date October 10 Time 1700h to 1900h Venue India Immersion Centre, Global Adjustments, No.5, 3rd Main Road, R.A Puram, Chennai

Trek to Kuntibetta Bengaluru Bengaluru Mountaineering Club is organising a trek to Kunti Betta, a hillock with a height of 950 metres. The trail is situated 130 km away from Mysore towards Mandya, amidst sugarcane plantations. The trek is short but with a beautiful view of the Thonnur Lake along the way. Call 09611102222 for registrations or mail support@bmcadventures.com. Date October 12 Venue Kuntibetta Trail, 130 km from Mysore

Russell Peters Notorious World Tour Chennai Comedian Russell Peters comes to Chennai to leave his audiences in splits. The Canadian stand up comedian of Indian origin is known for his politically incorrect observational comedy that will use humour to highlight racial, ethnic and cultural stereotypes. Book your tickets on www.bookmyshow.com Date October 29 Time 2000h Venue Chennai Trade Centre, Nandambakkam, Chennai

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October 2013

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Calendar spaces Know your city

Mumbai Dance Sport Association of Maharashtra (DSAM)

Bengaluru National Gallery of Modern Art A repository of the cultural ethos of the country, the National Gallery of Modern Art showcases the changing art forms of India. The gallery is located on Palace Road in the century-old Manikyavelu Mansion of the Mysore Royal family. Spread over 3.5 acres, the historic heritage mansion is equipped with an auditorium, open air theatre, reference library, museum shop and cafeteria. Website www.ngmaindia.gov.in.

New Delhi National Museum The National Museum was inaugurated in 1949 and now holds approximately 2 lakh objects of diverse nature, both Indian and foreign. The time span covered by the objects in the museum packs in more than five thousand years of Indian cultural heritage. Facilities here include guided tours, gallery talks by experts, film screenings and even customised activities for children. Website www.nationalmuseumindia.gov.in

Formed in 2009, DSAM promotes dance as a sport activity in India. It focuses on providing dance sport opportunities for athletes, coaches, officials and volunteers and encourages sport for health and fun. The association holds local and state-level championships and exhibitions in dance sports such as Latin and ballroom dancing. Website www.dancesportmh.com.

Chennai InKo Centre InKo Centre was set up in 2006 to initiate a dialogue between India and South Korea. The centre covers language studies, wellness and performing/visual arts programmes. It aims to promote an inter-cultural dialogue by facilitating consistent programmes that include film screenings and the annual Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Film Festival. Website www.inkocentre.org.

DanceSport Association of Maharashtra

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Picture story by Marcel van Mourik

These Old ways

1 Talking about Old Delhi means talking about Mughal Delhi or Shahjahanabad as it was known. Established in 1648 AD by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, it was designed by his daughter Jahanara Begum Sahib and became the new capital of the Mughals. It was a prosperous city of fabled riches, elegant mansions and gardens, and also came to known as the seventh city of Delhi.

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October 2013

The city was originally surrounded by mud walls, but was replaced by red stone in 1657. In the Mughal period, the gates were kept locked at night. The walls have now largely disappeared, but some of its gates still exists, such as the Lahore Gate in the west, the Kashmir Gate in the north and the Turkman Gate in the south. Chandni Chowk is the major street that runs through the middle of the walled city, from the Lahore Gate to Fatehpuri Masjid. Originally, a canal ran through the middle of the street as part of the water supply scheme for the city. This is where the romance of the bazaars is at its best. Chandni Chowk is also well known for its mouth-watering cuisine, both vegetarian and spicy Mughlai cuisine. The best way to experience Old Delhi is on foot. You will meet the true essence of intoxicating smells (good and bad!), the crazy noise and chaos, and Delhi’s history that will call out to you through its many bazaars, historic buildings and temples. Because in Old Delhi, each little nuance has a story to tell. 1 01 A paan-wallah preparing authentic paan in many variations out of fresh betel leaves 02 While sitting in a cycle rickshaw I captured members of the Seven City walking group touring Old Delhi 03 A great view of the inside of the Fatehpuri Masjid mosque built in 1650 04 Unaware of what’s happening around him, this man was patiently reading his newspaper 05 A young man preparing and baking one of India’s favourite dishes, parathas, while members of the Seven City walking group mill around 06 A beautiful view of the towering minarets and domes

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Thought leaders by Team Culturama

L to R: Shankar Annaswamy, Ranjini Manian and Sunil Kunte

Meeting of the Minds

experiences, while being deftly moderated by Ranjini Manian, CEO, Global Adjustments. We present excerpts from the conversation below. On India, it’s positives and challenges Shankar Annaswamy: When I joined IBM after GE and Philips, I saw phenomenal research lab capabilities. It had depth in a lot of areas and I needed to bring a synergy between IBM’s corporate requirement and the countries' 1 Celebrating 374th anniversary agenda. We signed a $750 million deal with Bharti that of the founding of Madras, with transformed the telecom sector. IBM now supports more than a scintillating conversation 500 million telecom subscribers. The model we used was hosted by Global Adjustments and different; we had maids to drivers using mobile prepaid cards. Sheraton Park Towers The famous missed call model was brought in. This broke the digital divide of India from the rest of the world. We were a When two illustrious sons of Madras come together to big part of the momentum that transformed the sector. We talk about “Why India Even Now” in the hushed ambience of Sheraton Park Towers, you know you are in for something hosted central solutions for cooperative banks that couldn’t afford it previously. My focus in all these companies I worked inspiring and thought-provoking. The 250-odd guests that with was to do something for India. If you believe in ‘Why included expat and Indian CEOs, management leaders and global change-makers gathered in solidarity for India’s future India even now’, India produces scanners that are in demand weren’t disappointed. Shankar Annaswamy, Sr. Advisor, India even in Germany. Whether we are Indian companies who are Enterprise, IBM India, rated by Business Week among the 50 global or global companies in India, if we apply mind and most powerful Indians and awarded Best CEO by Forbes, and strategy we could transform India. Sunil Kunte: The firm (Fidelity) has invested in India Sunil Kunte, President, FMR India, running the India arm of USA’s No. 1 mutual fund company, shared their insights and for the past 10 years. The firm is representative of a host of

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European and American companies that came here for cost arbitrage but are here to stay. It’s a matter of pride that we produce cost-effective solutions for companies. Over the decade, the India operations, especially in Bengaluru and Chennai, have become an integral part of the firm’s success. The India story even now is beyond providing cost-effective solutions. We follow a system called ‘Smart-storming’ where our associates from even small towns in India share their thoughts on our strategies. We ran a little project based on the US market for investment plans. Research shows that 51% of the wealth in the United States is controlled by women; by the end of the year more than 70% will be controlled by women. How can the firm extract this growing market is what we asked our associates. Traditionally, investment advisors target only men. Men think they get it but they don’t. We needed to change the market place and women needed a different approach. The associates came in with a brilliant idea as to how to exploit the market place. The US market is completely alien to these Indian associates from small towns. The fact that these 20-year-old people are able to get the context and come out with ideas and many of which are going into fruition is why India even Now. This is real. What the global Indian needs Sunil Kunte: First is communication. Indians are very articulate. But there is a difference between being articulate and ability to influence. By nature we can be argumentative, but there is a difference between debate and argument. Folks should understand debate has an outcome, but an argument doesn’t have one. When you communicate, you should be able to influence. Second is to when and how to say ‘No’. If it can’t be done, say so. Third; Embrace culture. Indians coming from a multicultural background, it comes naturally.

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Shankar Annaswamy: Indians are used to working on their own. But collaboration is becoming the biggest key in working together now and in global enablement. Tom Friedman in a discussion told us that Indians get the HOW but not the WHAT or WHY. The ‘Why’ portion is the innovation component. This is critical for India to go forward. Advice for expats working in India Shankar Annaswamy: India is such a complex, multifaceted country that makes the learning process and adapting difficult. When you visit India, the first visit is always a disaster; on the second visit, you don’t see the noise, garbage, etc. Don’t make a judgement because you come from a different background. Sunil Kunte: Expatriates need a good sense of humour. As in any other overseas assignment, coping with the unknown is the adventure you should look forward to. For many expatriates, they leave India, but India never leaves them. Final word Sunil Kunte: I get inspired by our youth. We invited school children from underprivileged families and asked them what they see in the future of India. I was taken aback by a few young girls who in ten minutes expressed flawlessly why India is a great country. That is hope for me. Shankar Annaswamy: In India, growth doesn’t happen in a linear manner. The ups and downs help us build our muscles and strength, that’s how India will advance. My message for the youth is this: • There are enough of examples with value systems and integrity, follow these. • Youth should look for tough assignments so they can learn all the way and shape them. • Look for good mentors as you progress in life. • Indians settle for average outcomes, we need to search for excellence. Just enough is not good enough. 1

Watch the full conversation on www.globaladjustments.com or www.culturama.in

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Spotlight by Shefali Ganesh

Gandhi jayanti 1 This diminutive yet powerful man’s birth anniversary on October 2, is celebrated across the world as the International Day of Non-Violence, and as Gandhi Jayanti in India. We turn the spotlight on the father of the Indian independence movement, Mahatma Gandhi 1 Read ‘My Experiments with Truth’, Mahatma Gandhi’s autobiography on his life and his experiments with Satyagraha or non-violent resistance. 3 Do Join the ‘Footsteps 4 Good’ Charity run in honour of Gandhiji’s birthday in Mumbai that benefits many NGOs. Visit their website www. footsteps4good.com for details. 2 Shop Buy the DVD of the epic biographical movie ‘Gandhi’ directed by Richard Attenborough. 4 Locate Visit the Sabarmati Ashram on the banks of the Narmada in Ahmedabad where Gandhiji stayed. It has been converted into a museum giving a glimpse into his life. 5 Connect Listen to the Mahatma’s voice http://tinyurl. com/95gm3mc, a reminder of the magic that was.

Peace and non-violence are two words that come to mind with the mention of Mahatma Gandhi. Born Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi on October 2, 1869, in Gujarat, he went on to study law and became a barrister. The turning point in Gandhiji’s life was in South Africa where he saw racism and prejudice. His Civil Disobedience Movement in South Africa questioned the discrimination against all coloured people. Back in India, he witnessed the atrocities on Indians by the British Empire. Starting with the protest against national salt tax, the Dandi Salt March in 1930, Gandhiji went on to ask the British to ‘Quit India’ in 1942. “Be the change that you wish to see in the world” was what he advocated. He stood for truthfulness, peace and non-violence, and asked everyone to do the same. With a vision for a self-sufficient India, Gandhiji’s dream began with the villages that were the heart of India. Practising what he preached, he wore clothes he spun himself, was a vegetarian, grew his own vegetables and took long fasts for self purification. Fasting was also a non-violent means of conveying his determination in many of the causes that he stood for. “My life is my message” was his much-quoted words to the world. He was assassinated on January 30, 1948, at a prayer meeting at the Birla House in Delhi. The place has been converted into a memorial called Gandhi Smrithi that houses a multimedia museum on Gandhiji’s life. 1

Photo Wu Teng Guo , Singapore

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October 2013

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At Global Adjustments

Overall Winner 2011 Elena Eder, Italy

Winners take all!

Overall Winner, 2009 Ninna Marie Hogedal, Denmark

1 The 16th Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition is just a month away! If you are an expatriate and if you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t already sent us your entries, then take a look at some of our winning entries over the years for some India inspiration. So start clicking, because India is always ready and smiling!

Overall Winner, 2006

Culture & Festivals Winner, 2005

Emmanuel Mancion, France

Nancy Hopkins, USA

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October 2013

Win exciting prizes to exotic locations in India! And much, much Places Winner, 2003

more!

Neil Simon, UK

Last date for

Crowd's Favourite, 2004 Suzanne McNeill, UK

entries:

Places Winner, 2002 Mike-Eliseou, UK

October 31, 2013 Overall Winner, 2007 Dave McTavish, Canada

The 16th Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition If you are en expat and love taking photographs of India, then here's your chance to win some exciting prizes and the opportunity to have your photographs published in Culturama!

Categories Faces

All Indian faces, human or animal, are welcome

Places The big, the small, the known and the unknown

Into India Expat immersion into Indian life

Culture & Festivals All the colour, verve and rhythm of India's true heartbeat

Peace Capture the inner peace and harmony of everyday India *Only 4 photographs per person per category To partner with us for this event, call +91 - 98416 54816

The Mike Eliseou

Award Mike (who passed away last month) loved India and all things Indian, and so Global Adjustments presents this award, a cash prize and certificate, for a deserving, upcoming Indian photographer. If you know of anyone, please send us your nominations to info@globaladjustments.com with 'Mike Eliseou Award' as the subject line by October 31.

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Global citizen by Neil Miller

Grey area 1 India is a land of grey. The white is grey; the black is grey; even the grey is more grey than you are comfortable with, and here’s how you tackle this grey area For many people, there is black and there is white. There are things that are wrong and things that are right. This is a condition which sociologists call “universalism”. It basically means that the rules are the same for all people all the time. We all stop at the red light. Everyone is punished if they don’t pay their electricity bill on time. Everyone, always, never, all. For these people there is a little bit of “grey area” in life (i.e., assisted suicides, self-defence murders). But for the most part, if it’s grey, it may as well be black. If that describes you, then you will have a very hard time in India. There are very few absolutes here, and you will live a very short life if you try to figure out what they are. Here’s a story to illustrate: An expat friend of mine (Clark) was well known among his Indian friends as being a good writer and researcher. One day, one of Clark’s close Indian friends (Shreyas) came up to him and asked if he would help their mutual friend (Anand), who was at the end of a master’s programme, write a paper on Emily Dickenson. Clark said, “Sure, I can edit it and look over it.” Then Shreyas clarified that they actually wanted Clark to write the entire paper and submit it for Anand. For Clark, this was a clear moral boundary he was not willing to cross. How can I write a paper for someone else when they are in a master’s degree programme? His conscience would not allow him to participate.

But Shreyas looked at it differently. Anand was a close friend in need. His family had given everything to put him through the programme and as soon as he was finished, he would be able to provide for his family. Writing a paper on Emily Dickinson seemed very unimportant overall to the major goal of providing for your family. Here is a hierarchy of filters that determines what is right in the Indian context, the first being the most important: What relationships are involved and how will they be affected? What is the cost to me with each action? What are the laws that govern this action? If there is a clear answer after the first one, the second two are not needed. If the first is indecisive and the second is obvious, then the third is unnecessary. Only if the first two do not apply does the universal rule truly apply to this situation. That’s how your grey becomes their white. 1

5 Poll Box What do you think Clark should have done? • Clark wrote the article compromising his value, to keep Shreyas relationship going • Clark did not write the article, and Shreyas understood Clark’s value • Clark did not write the article, and Shreyas felt bad, it was the decline of their friendship. Log on to www.culturama.in and post your response.

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October 2013

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Seeing India by Ian Watkinson

Bullet points The river has for millennia carried its waters past empires rising and falling. It moulded the clay of the great Harappan brick makers. Its waters ran beneath the bridges built by Alexander the Great and Babur. It washed away blood spilt in the cruel pain of the Partition in 1947. This is the Indus. As these things mentally interconnect, my steed — a trusty Enfield Bullet — steadfastly thunders westwards along the Indus valley in the high desert of Ladakh. Fifty million years ago this area was the great sea bed of Tethys, and India was an island — a massive tectonic raft heading northward towards inevitable collision with the Euro-Tibetan continent. The two great land masses are still in collision; the Indian plate forcing itself under the Tibetan plate and pushing up the corrugated folds we know today as the world’s most breathtaking mountains, created from the Tethys seabed itself. This same river still flows next to the road. Surrounded by harsh rocks crumpled by geological pressure like discarded newsprint, the past is revealed by reading the folds. Freedom flows easily in immeasurable open space thanks to the Bullet’s thumping cylinder, echoing down dusty valley roads. Exploring this vast and uncompromising land by motorbike seems empathetic, the pulsing engine a mantra of motion — big space under wide sky.

1 Tracing the might of the river Indus as it has spawned civilisations, cultures and geographies, on a trusty, modern steed – a Royal Enfield Bullet The Himalayan, Zanskar and Ladakh mountains surround this historic meeting of lands, the Indus River cutting westwards like a slick of geological glue along the seam of the conjoined continents. This is not a loud, belligerent river, but one that quietly asserts its stature by stealth in a world of sharp crystalline rock. From remote sources in glacial ice sheets to the east it gathers volume and strength from gushing tributaries both north and south, which selflessly sacrifice their individuality to the timeless Indus. It is the great master of the valleys, the peaceful mediator in violent outbreaks of troublesome tectonics. The roads are broken by rickety iron bridges across the swift green river. Loose wooden slats ripple and clatter as the bike’s wheels roll over the span. Pools of gritty sand swirl on the pitted surface of the roads, contorted by winds channeling down the valleys and howling like primal archetypes. Small villages cling to the rocks along the way; tight communities where nothing is wasted, nothing is discarded, not a stalk, not a twig; not a breath. Reminders of Buddhism are ever present; lonesome Chortens (stupas) scatter as rubble across ridges and fields, great monasteries dominate sheer rock outcrops; smooth white edifices towering above the endless flat valley.

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These monasteries (Gompas) consolidate the spirit of this land. In the eighth century, Guru Padmasambhaya (Rimpoche) came from the Nalanda Buddhist University in Bihar and imprinted Buddhism firmly into the almost animist psyche of Tibet and Ladakh. His cave is still revered at Tak Thok monastery, a dusty winding climb from the Indus valley where even the Bullet is panting in the thin atmosphere. An hour or more, further east, lies remote Hemis Gompa, secreted up a long boulder strewn trail in a narrow valley. Here Rimpoche’s birthday is celebrated in an ancient two day ritual of costume and dance, where the deep drone of Tibetan horns and the bright clash of cymbals mingle with the bike’s constant engine mantra ‘thump thump’. It all echoes integrally down to the river in the distance. The Indus provides water for the villages in the valley, and small irrigated patches of bright green life interweave with the immutable, inscrutable surroundings. All waste is used — wood and dung sparingly for fuel and creatively for building, along with bricks made from dried mud. Willow shoots woven into baskets, yak wool into warm clothes. Meat is eaten frugally, mainly in winter when fresh crops are finished. In the planting and harvest seasons the villagers work in harmony with each other on the land. A sense of shared work and shared responsibility is systemic. Here, life is not driven by money or desire for reward — survival is not best served by an individual's personal ambitions. The Indus provides a summer lifeline as all water here is tremendously precious – the Himalayas are a barrier to the monsoon clouds of lowland India so rain is almost non-

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existent. Summer is short and hot; the winters long, hard and bitterly cold when the snow falls long and deep. The delicate balance of life and land shared by the villagers and valleys is easily displaced from its equilibrium. Visitors bring their own transient needs into a place where materialism was unknown until recently. Money, possessions, mobile phones and waste were never known or needed by this ancient culture but are inevitably infiltrating it as the outside world encroaches. The introduction of plastic, problems of waste disposal, increased demands for fuel, water and food are placing a huge strain on a unique self-sufficient society with limited resources. These are critical issues for the survival of this land and its culture. My now thirsty Bullet finally finds petrol at a gas station near Leh — the petrol is bought over the mountains from far away HP or Srinagar, all by thundering diesel guzzling tankers. Reality becomes irony as I understand we are all integral to this process of change. At least, I don’t buy bottled water and add to Ladakh’s rapidly growing plastic mountain. All our ‘freedoms’ come with a price tag somewhere along the line. So the Indus now flows along another great collision up in the mountains — this time not between continents but cultures. I guess it has seen it all before. 1

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Photo Saumil Shah, India

Seeing India by Bindu Menon

Flying high 1 The city of Ahmedabad that hosts the International Kite Festival every year has several things going for it â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the colour, both on the ground and in the skies, is just the beginning!

Photo Bindu Menon, India

Photo Saumil Shah, India

Master craftsman Pankaj Makwana

Photo Saumil Shah, India

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I love kites. Since a child I have always been fascinated watching colourful kites drift away happily in the blue skies. That’s why the annual International Kite Festival in Ahmedabad was a must-do on my list. One cold and windy January, we landed at the Ahmedabad airport and almost thought we were lost in some European country. We saw the excitement in the faces of people from every possible country arriving with large suitcases. The hotels were full of them too. There was a festive feel in the air. It was Makara Sankaranthi or Uttarayan, the festival that marks the days in the Hindu calendar when the transition from winter to summer begins. There is a sense of hurry and flurry in every family. Children are up on their own in the wee hours of the morning, to bathe, take part in the day’s rituals and rush out with their kites to gather on the largest terrace available in the neighbourhood. Since 1989, Ahmedabad has proudly hosted the International Kite Festival to celebrate Uttarayan, inviting kite makers and enthusiasts from across the globe to display their unique creations and amaze the spectators with the most unusual and creative kites. I witnessed the most spectacular event. The skies over the Sardar Patel Stadium in Ahmedabad were filled with kites from each country reflecting their culture — Chinese dragons, American sport, Indonesian art, African wildlife and so on. The children squealed at the sight of larger than life characters from popular animation movies. The day after the celebrations is ideal for a tour of the city, as the streets are nearly deserted. It was a pleasant surprise to see that the main city areas had almost unblemished roads, something the Amdavadis are proud of. Their transport system (BRTS) is modern, systematic and accurate. Our friends took us on a ride down the city’s narrow gullies/lanes where ancient monuments stood testimony to a piece of history that may be forgotten today. Shopping is a delight in this city and the options stretch from leading malls to street shops selling the best of bandhini (tie and dyed fabric) and mirror-worked clothes in the most beautiful colour combinations. The Law Garden Market is a shopper’s dream, especially because it is open until late in the night. The sheer variety and the price left us going back for more the next day. The next best thing in Ahmedabad is the food. Gujarati food is an acquired taste, as most dishes have a dash of sweetness in it. But once hooked, you can be sure to devour

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a huge variety of delicacies from among snacks, curries and desserts. I must warn you — the mango-flavoured yoghurt or Shrikhand as it is popularly known is one sinful dessert! Vishala, the Gujarati restaurant conceptualised on the lines of a typical village, situated on the outskirts of the city is a must-visit. An evening there offers you a peek into true Gujarati culture. We were welcomed by staff in traditional attire with a warm smile and overwhelming hospitality that Gujaratis are known for. (They make terrific hosts and love to serve endless courses of delicious treats through the day! I was at the receiving end at a dear friend’s house and I couldn’t do justice.) Until our food arrived, we were seated on traditional rope-beds and served refreshments, as we relaxed and watched live folk music, dance and puppet shows by the villagers in colourful costumes. Delicious food was served in brass ware on low, rustic-looking wooden tables with floor-seating. Stewards in traditional attire with a welcoming smile tempted us to try out every one of the endless variety of food right down to the sweet paan (betel leaf) which itself had a dozen options to choose from! Oh could we please rest the night there on those comfortable, traditional beds, under the starstudded skies! The fabric section is a unique experience, as we met national award winning craftsmen and watched them spin yarns of silk, demonstrating their skill with pride and explaining the difference between the motifs, the threads and the fabric used. The handicrafts on sale make for perfect gifts to bring home for friends and family. The last day was saved for the soul. The Sabarmati Ashram on the banks of the river by the same name is where Gandhiji lived many years of his life. It is quiet, peaceful and takes you to an altogether different era, with the Hindu Bhajan, Vaishnava Janato, one of Gandhiji’s daily prayers, playing softly in the background. We entered the room where Gandhiji sat to spin the Charka. I touched it with reverence. We tried our hands at spinning and even brought home miniature versions as souvenirs. The International Kite Festival was a good reason for us to visit Ahmedabad, but we came back with an unexpected basket full of colourful memories of this vibrant city. 1

Know This

Master kite-makers prepare strong resilient kite bodies with springy bamboo frames and kite-paper stretched to exactly the right tension. The kites are attached to a spool (or firkin) of manja, special kite-string coated with a mixture of glue and glass to be as sharp as possible for cutting strings of rival kites. Production of kites and kite supplies can be seen on the streets of Ahmedabad beginning November to get ready for Uttarayan in January.

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5 Join Us Every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments.com. If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

Holistic living by Eknath Easwaran

Here and now One of the curious games I learned as a Boy Scout was musical why. They even seem to accomplish more, so that their lives chairs. There would be thirteen of us and only twelve chairs, and have enduring value, meaning, and the power to inspire. we would all circle around while someone sang our Scout song. Where does this sense of fullness come from? How can Whenever the singer stopped, everyone had to find a seat — and such people live without hurry but make each moment count? of course, one boy would be without. Each time around, one more The Buddha would give a simple answer: it is because they live chair would be taken away. As the game got faster and faster, we completely in the present — the only time there is. would begin to push each other and do all kinds of impossible When we nurse a resentment or dwell on an anxiety, things like trying to jump on we are stepping into a private 1 Ancient Indian scriptures have a chair from behind, panicky time machine and whisking this verse: “Take fullness from ourselves away from the here and because we were afraid we’d be fullness; fullness still remains." now. Whenever we rehash old out of the game. Sri Easwaran tells us that the experiences, whether pleasant Many people seem to only place this magic pot of treat life like this. Time keeps or painful, we have left the fullness is to be found is in the present and are travelling in the taking away the chairs, and here and the now we run around in more and past. Every fear or anxiety or more of a panic trying to get wishful fantasy is a trip into the a seat — even if it means someone else will have to go without. future. Most of us spend much more time doing this than we But in every age and culture there are a few — people like Francis think. And with every trip, we are training the mind not to of Assisi, Teresa of Avila, Mahatma Gandhi — who find this remain in the present, but to wander in the past and future as approach to life as meaningless as the game. After a few rounds aimlessly as in a dream. of scurrying like the rest of us, they quietly step aside. Everybody likes to bask in pleasant memories — the Great spiritual figures like these go through life without fuss time we won all those trophies, prom night, the day we and frenzy as if they had all the time in the world, and their lives were chosen Manager of the Year. Unfortunately, the past seem so much richer than ours that we have to stop and wonder is not always pleasant. And whenever we train the mind to

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October 2013

Photo Enrice Donate Sànchez, Spain

dwell on pleasant memories, we are training it to get caught in unpleasant ones too: the time we finished last, or did something ridiculous we’d like to forget, or hurt or were hurt by someone we loved. This is the stuff of resentment, anxiety, self-deprecation, guilt, and fear, which can make life a terrible burden. The same is true of the future too. A child can hardly wait to become a teenager. Teenagers can hardly wait to get out of high school so they can go to college or get married or get a job with an airline and visit faraway lands. When they do land a job, they look forward to a promotion. And on the job, promotion or not, they can’t wait for vacation. The conclusion is unavoidable: if one third of our time, with all its energy and creative resources, is trapped in the past, and another third is trapped in the future, we are one-third people. That’s all of us that is here and now. I started to understand this when I began to meditate. Meditation is a kind of glass-bottom boat for observing the mind, and when I saw what was happening under the surface, I decided I didn’t want to be a one-third person. I wasn’t even content to be a two-thirds person. I wanted to be whole, to be full. In the Indian scriptures there is a glorious verse: “Take fullness from fullness; fullness still remains.” That is what I

wanted. When you are full, you can give to everyone and still be full. You can love each person and still have love to give to everyone else. You can give fullness away like a millionaire scattering largesse. You can open a flea market for love, setting up a little stand and saying, “Take as much as you can. Help yourself!” and at the end of the day you will still be full. Time has been illustrated as an infinite cosmic carpet that is always rolled up behind and before us. One day comes and it is unrolled from the future, and that evening it is rolled up again. The only part of the carpet that is open is the present moment. The Buddha would go farther. There is no such thing as the past, he would say. It has been rolled up; it doesn’t exist. Nothing remains of it but what we hold in our minds. And there is no such thing as the future; it has not yet been rolled out. The very pressure of time is an illusion, the Buddha would say, created by the rushing movement of the mind. Time does not hurry us; we hurry ourselves. If we could slow the mind down, we would see that there is never any moment but the present, never any time but now. 1 Reprinted with permission from Strength in the Storm: Transform stress, live in balance & find peace of mind by Eknath Easwaran. Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971. www.easwaran.org

October 2013

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From the other side by Marina Marangos

Fast forward

Photo Francesca Del Soldato

1 On the 22nd of this month, women in North India undergo from sunrise to moonrise a sacred fast for their husbands. Our writer looks at this tradition of Karva Chauth, from the outside to the inside

Fasting for your man. This is what I was first told when I looked into the celebration of Karva Chauth, a one-day festival celebrated by Hindu women, mostly in North India. I smiled; it seemed so old fashioned and not something that I could actually see any Westerners doing or perhaps even the younger generation of Indians. Fasting always had the element of a religious rite, but none of us, however fond we are of our man, with the exception of his mum, think that he has god-like qualities for which fasting would be warranted. The only other side of fasting I am aware of is not eating so that you can get into the dress you bought two sizes too small for you. So fasting for your manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s health and happiness seemed quite far-fetched and in this rapidly evolving world of professional women and equality this was one festival whose future I questioned. I had to find out more so I went to a Karva Chauth event organised by a wonderful group of Indian women who were willing to share the secrets and

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delights of this day with us ‘firangi’. The whole day is not one for the faint-hearted as it starts before sunrise at 3 a.m. when the women get up to eat some special food called sargi and drink milk. Often the mother-in-law sends this to the daughter-in-law. The message is clear — fast for my son’s wellbeing and happiness. I don’t know how many dare defy that! The origins of this festival are a bit vague but probably had to do with women fasting for the safe return of their men from war. Now it is probably to pray for their safe return in the evening from Delhi’s roads! This is one day when the women take a rest from their daily chores and can do as they wish during the day. For some, this may involve being with friends and relations with some henna being painted, some gifts being exchanged or stories told. For wealthier Indians, I understand, some card games may be organised, and for others, long and deserving naps to get them through the rigours of a day without food or drink. At the celebration I attended, the women were dressed in their finest clothes, a good excuse to bring out their wedding saris or lehangas which are colourful and opulent. In the re-enactment of the celebration that takes place in the evening of that day, women sit round in a circle and have before them their little Karvas, their little pots. Chauth refers to the fourth day of the month of Kartik when the festival normally takes place, which is around the month of October. In front of them, on trays, the women had a clump of earth, a red cloth, mango leaves and a coconut, all symbolising offerings. The little pots or karvas are full of water. There are also votive lamps, which are lit, and the trays are passed around the women who sit in a circle on the ground. As this is happening, an elderly woman or sometimes a priest will recite in a sing-song voice the story of the Karva Chauth, in this case the story of Vervaati, the beautiful sister of seven brothers who fasted for her husband on Karva Chauth. She was hungry and was waiting for the moonrise and as her brothers did not want to see her suffering they told her the moon had risen and she broke her fast. Her husband grew sick. When Karva Chauth came round again she went off to buy a pot, to observe the fast properly and the husband regained consciousness and became well again. There are a number of Karva Chauth stories that may be recited depending on which community you might belong to but this was the one recited by the women in the ceremony I attended.

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The husband’s job, if one can call it that, is to look out for the moon as this signals the time when the wives or fiancées can break the fast and eat again. This is often accompanied by the final ceremony of the day, which involves the karva. Water is spilt gently into outstretched and cupped hands and offered to the moon, the gesture signalling at once an offer but also the prayer and hope of long wedded bliss. This is one of the rare moments when the husband touches his wife’s feet in reverence rather than the other way round which we see so often. While women have criticised this festival as perhaps being outmoded and even a reaffirmation of the subjugation of women, it is also true to say that instead of diminishing as a tradition it seems to be growing. There is something romantic in this festival, a reaffirmation of a marriage and the vows of loyalty and caring for one another. Public personalities have taken on Karva Chauth to emphasise these aspects and even advertisements on television have used the festival as a message of goodness and giving. The most encouraging sign however, and perhaps a sign of the times, is that husbands now occasionally join their wives in the fast and while it is to pray for their own health and happiness at least they know what wives go through as they too fast from sunrise to moonrise. 1

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Give to India by Shefali Ganesh

Mumbai’s songsters

1 Mumbai-based charity initiative, Songbound, true to its name, binds together India’s underprivileged children through its music outreach programme The notes of ‘Do-re-me’ and the young voices that accompany it, resound in an impoverished part of Mumbai city. A closer look reveals enthusiastic young children singing along in a language that you wonder if they understand. That music transcends language is what their smiling faces and excited voices tell us. In their case, music has even travelled across lands to bring joy through Songbound, a musical charity initiative. The Songbound seed was sowed more than a decade ago when Joe Walters, a London-based musician came to India to learn the tabla. Having spent many a year soaking in India’s music, Joe was trying to find a way to give back to the country. And music was what he was best at. The project of the Bombay Chamber Orchestra with Muktangan School for the Worli slum community set him off to produce a documentary film,

‘The Sound of Mumbai’. This riveting film was about the emotions of slum children from the Muktangan project on their experience of performing with a Western orchestra. Though an enriching experience, this project gave the children a one-time experience only. “That’s how Songbound happened,” says Joe. “It’s envisioned as a music initiative that would provide many more disadvantaged children the same uplifting and transformative experience of singing in a choir on a continued basis.” The outreach programme works by training choir leaders in a syllabus that is set by Joe Walters. Choir leaders

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October 2013

RajastHan palaces. forts. relive the past.

are experienced singers who are from diverse musical backgrounds. The common syllabus ensures that all the children learn the same songs and in a manner that is easy to grasp. Songs in languages from across the world including those in local dialects and English is what the syllabus prescribes. Louise Sizer, who manages the Songbound operations in Mumbai, adds, “Teaching the kids English songs is also a fun way for them to learn the language”. The programme reaches out to NGOs working with children, orphanages and forms a choir in these select places. Each choir, which has children between six to twelve years is trained throughout the year by a choir leader and also visiting musicians from abroad. To motivate the children, Songbound ensures they keep performing at public events across the city, throughout the year. Currently located in Mumbai, Songbound is inching its way to Bengaluru and is also in talks with NGOs in Chennai. The benefits of training these children in music have been significant. According to Louise Sizer, “The children have shown gradual improvement in behavioural issues; they turn less aggressive after attending the programme. They also show great interest in learning, thereby developing their focus, while having fun.” For the children who participate, the Songbound programme gives a boost in confidence and creativity. The choir leaders meanwhile prove that people from different backgrounds can come together for a social cause with just music as a common factor. And for Joe Walters, Songbound is satisfaction that his “raging passion for India and music” has been made the most of. 1 5 Visit www.songbound.com for details. Songbound invites singers to be trained as choir leaders or NGOs and schools that wish to form a choir or musical ensemble of their own.

milesworth holidays india • srilanka • maldives • and beyond

3 Fact File 01 At present there are nine choirs that Songbound runs in various slum areas of Mumbai and Bengaluru. 02 ‘The Sound of Mumbai’ musical documentary debuted in the Toronto International Film Festival in 2010. The movie shows children from the slums rehearse for songs from ‘The Sound of Music’. 03 The documentary continues to raise funds for the education of the children who were part of the film.

visit: www.milesworth.com Milesworth Travels & Tours Pvt. Ltd., 39 R M Towers, 108 Chamiers Road, Chennai. Tel: +91-44-24320522 / 24359554 Fax: +91-44-24342668 E-mail: holidays@milesworth.com

October 2013

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Festival of the month 2 What to Buy

Chennai: Buy a clay doll from the streets of Mylapore to take back home – a modern cricketer doll or an ancient sage from the mythical days. Especially buy the head-wobbling doll! Mumbai: To take part in the traditional dance of garba, buy Dandiya sticks outside Premson’s Bazaar in Breach Candy, on Linking Road in Bandra and DMart in Powai. Delhi: You will see idols being sold on the road all over the city during Durga Puja and Dussehra. For fancier idols you could go to Cottage Emporio or Kriti. Bengaluru: Dolls are sold on all most streets, especially in Gandhi Bazaar in Basavangudi and in Malleshwaram Market. Head to the Palace Grounds for a taste of garba.

4 What to do

NAVRATRI October 5 to 13 This nine-day festival honours three manifestations of the Mother Goddess: Durga, the warrior, Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity, and Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge and music. On the ninth day of Navratri is Ayudha Puja, when all implements of learning and tools of trade (including computers and cars) are venerated with special pujas. Travel south to Tamil Nadu for the unique celebration of the golu or doll display, which is central to the social celebrations. In Gujarat, the nine nights are given over to a traditional dance form called Garba, performed in rings around a lamp or an image of Durga. For the Hindu Bengalis of West Bengal, Assam, Bihar, Jharkhand, Orissa and Tripura the final five days of Navratri are celebrated as Durga Puja. In northern India, particularly in Delhi, the festival culminates on the tenth day with Dussehra, which commemorates the victory of Rama, the courageous hero of the epic Ramayana, over Ravana, king of Lanka.

Chennai: See a golu display at the India Immersion Centre, #5, Third Main Road, or at any of your neighbours’ place. Do wear fully-covered clothing, no bare arms and knees for women. Remove shoes when you come to see the display as a sign of respect. No other taboos, photography welcome! Mumbai: Visit the National Sports Club of India in Worli to watch the burning of demon king Ravana’s effigy. Or head to Shivaji Park in Dadar to celebrate Durga Puja with the Bengalis. Delhi: The Durga procession can be seen at the Bengali Senior School Lawns, Alipur Road, Delhi. http://ddpskgate.com/. You can see the enactment of the Ramayana at the Ramlila Ground, located near the New Delhi railway station. Bengaluru: Visit the Chamundeshwari Temple, about three hours’ drive from Bengaluru or catch the grandeur of Dussehra at the Mysore Palace.

4 What to Eat

Chennai: The traditional sweet, Mysore Pak, along with the proteinrich Sundal, a snack made with lentils. Available at Grand Sweets and Snacks and Suriya Sweets and Snacks. Mumbai: Try the Kulfi (Indian ice cream) at India Kulfi House, Marine Drive, Chowpatty. For Bengali sweets, try Sweet Bengal and Brijwasi, all over Mumbai. Delhi: Kaju Katli, Badaam Kheer and Khaman Dhokla are the few delicacies that are eaten during the Dussehra festival. You can buy them in any Haldiram or Bikanerwala restaurant located all over the city. Bengaluru: Try the Bengali sweets at KC Das, while other festival delicacies are available at Arya Bhavan Sweets, Anand Sweets, Krishna Sweets and Kanthi Sweets.

3 Where to eat traditional sweets

For modaks (kozhakattai in South India) or peda (milk sweet) head to: Chennai: Grand Sweets, Gangotree, Suriya Sweets and Shree Mithai Mumbai: Brijwasi, Chandu Halwai Wala, D. Damodar, Haiko Market — Powai Delhi: Haldiram, Bikanerwala Bengaluru: Anand Bhavan, Arya Bhava, KC Das, Kanthi Sweets, Krishna Sweets

3 What to chant

"Ganapathy Bapa Moriya!" Learn the song at http://www.savetubevideo.com/?v=VU5TDdyMsZw

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India writes

iREAD

reviewed by Babette Verbeek What is it about? India was the first non-Western and developing country embracing democracy. How is it possible that more than sixty years later a vast amount of India’s population doesn’t benefit from anything democracy or India’s growing economy has to offer? The authors set forth the state of the public services and give historical explanations as to why the gross inequality in India is so persistent.

Who is it by? Jean Drèze and Amartya Sen co-authored several books on India’s social and economic situation. Jean Drèze (1959) is a development economist and is currently visiting Professor at Allahabad University. Originally from Belgium, he became an Indian citizen in 2002. Drèze is considered an activist and through his work tries to get attention for the situation of the underprivileged. Amartya Sen (1933) is an Indian economist and philosopher who works as a Professor at Harvard University. He won the Nobel Prize for Economics in 1998 and was awarded the Bharat Ratna, the highest award for civilians in India. The effect of economic policies on the well-being of the community is an important focus of his work.

Why should I read it? ‘An Uncertain Glory’ is especially urgent because of the extra challenges India faces with the current downturn of the economy. Many Indians have never benefited from economic growth. Indian politics and media have shown little attention for the depth of their deprivation. Drèze and Sen propose inclusive growth, stronger public services and accountability. The book is meant to stir discussions and contribute to public reasoning rather than giving professional advice to the government in office. Indeed, the solutions the authors offer are heavily debatable. However, the description of India’s current situation seems beyond discussion.

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October 2013

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Realty bytes The House Whisperer by Anita Krishnaswamy For all those niggling questions you might have on housing and realty in India, write to anita@globaladjustments.com

Don't Indian homes have running hot water? What is this “geyser” people are referring to? We don't have any back home! Chris Lever, Chennai You are right, Indian homes do not have the concept of centralised running hot water. The landlord/tenant has to install “geysers”, which is another term for water heaters (and not the sudden gush of water and steam from the ground!), to facilitate the same. These heaters are often bought separately and fitted in the bathrooms, depending on the size and capacity of the bathrooms. Geysers usually range from 15 litres —35 litres, which is the amount of hot water it can store for a period of time. There are instant geysers too. These don’t have storage capacity, but convert a bucket of tap water into hot water in a matter of minutes. Most of the large hotels and serviced apartments, however, do have centralised 24-hour running hot water. Modern buildings and newer constructions have in-built heater pipelines that facilitate running hot water, but that again is a rarity.

Another aspect to keep in mind is the tropical weather of the country with very hot summers, especially in the city where you live. So people prefer cold water baths to beat the heat. Hot water baths are considered a luxury and only for people who live in conditioned environments. This is one of the main reasons why Indian houses do not have the concept of running hot water. In fact, most homes don't have geysers either, and instead, prefer to heat some water on the stove before a bath. Hot water for dishes or clothes is also a luxury not considered important in the Indian way of life where the sun makes up for the power-conservation mode of life. It won't always be easy to negotiate additional geysers in homes with landlords, and tenants may have to put their own in. Please do note that as running water in India is usually straight from the ground, this hot water is not fit for cooking/ drinking. Specially treated and bottled water is used for this purpose; hence, there are no heaters in Indian kitchens. 1

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October 2013

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October 2013

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October 2013

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Srirangam 1 An island town created by the graceful rivers Cauvery and Kollidam (Coleroon), Srirangam is visited by tourists for its magnificent Sri Ranganathar temple The river Cauvery flows through the southern states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, forming three islands along the way. While the first two islands are located in Karnataka, the third is Srirangam or Antharangam, literally meaning the last ‘rangam’ or heaven, home to Lord Sri Ranganathar, or Lord Vishnu. The Sri Ranganathar temple of Srirangam is considered the biggest functioning Hindu temple in the world covering more than 150 acres. It is the first of the 108 Divyadesams or main Vishnu temples that all Vishnu devotees aspire to visit in their lifetime. The temple is also said to house the holy sandals or padukas of the Lord, which inspired poet-philosopher Sri Desikan to write 1000 verses in praise of the divine sandals of Sri Ranganathar!

Life in Srirangam revolves around the vast temple and its seven enclosures or prakarams. The thick concentric walls give the temple an impregnable fort-like feel. There are 21 towers in all, within the seven circles of the temple that also houses more than 50 deities. The temple compound also hosts a museum, a library and a bookshop. There is something happening throughout the year in Srirangam. The town has large numbers of tourists from across the world descending during festive times. The most important festivals of the town include the Ekadasi festival celebrated during December – January and the Chithirai Ther festival during March – April. 1

3 Things to do around Srirangam: Visit Rockfort temple in the neighbouring city of Tiruchirapalli for its brilliant view of the river Cauvery from atop a hill. Have a dip in the magnificent river at Srirangam or Trichy. Mukkombu, a popular picnic spot, is a must-visit as it is the place where the Cauvery is at its widest. This is also where the Kolladam dam is located.

4 How to get there: Srirangam is connected by rain from Chennai and by air through Trichy airport. It is also approachable by road from Madurai, Bengaluru and Chennai.

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Registered with the Registrar of Newspapers for India RNI No.TNENG/2010/32752. Postal Reg.No.TN/CC(S)Dn./396/2013-15. Licensed to post without prepayment under WPP No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-268/2013-15. Date of Publication:1st of every month.