Culturama sep 2013 by Rohini Manian

your cultural gateway to india

Poised and Ready

Bharatnatyam exponent Priyadarsini Govind on dance and her newest role as the director of Kalakshetra, a haven for the arts

Lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a Beach

Breathe in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coastline as we walk through her culturally diverse beaches

September 2013 Volume 4, Issue 7

Rs 40

September 2013

culturama

September 2013

Dear readers We are all really spiritual beings, having a temporary human existence. Indian festivals constantly remind us of this, as we make lovely clay images of Ganesh, the elephantheaded God, this month, and immerse him into the ocean after nine days. The fleeting nature of life comes home to us when someone passes away, leaving survivors with the burning question of “Who am I and what is my real role on this earth?” In this issue of Culturama, we too ponder about this as we pay tribute to Mike Eliseou, former Advisory Board member. Mike became a client of Global Adjustments when he relocated from the United Kingdom 14 years ago. (Global Adjustments has been bringing you Culturama for 18 years now.) He came to India to head up a leather business, and based himself in Chennai. He was a Greek-Briton, full of life, with a natural ability to bring people together. He founded the first British Business and Social Club in the city and the Photography Club. He led from the front as Culturama’s judge in our annual Expatriate Photo Competition on “Beautiful India”. When we featured another client Roselli from Brazil in Culturama two years after Mike arrived, little did we realise that he would be inspired by the article to go find her and marry her! (Culturama has had a hand in matchmaking, too!) He spent a decade in our country before going home to Greece. Roselli wrote us to share the sad news that Mike won’t be calling on India again. But deep in our hearts we know, somehow, we will always be connected. Mike, this September issue, and our photo competition this year with a special award in your name (more on page 50), are both dedicated to you. Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief

Mike hands over a prize as our photo competition judge in 2007

Mike celebrates his 60th birthday in India

One of Mike's award winning entries at the photo competition in 2005

Credits

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Cover Photo G Venket Ram, www.gvenketram.com

Letters to the editor Dear Editor,

“I saw the brilliant issue of the August Culturama. Your editorial is superb!” Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian

Padmashri Aruna Sairam Renowned Indian classical vocalist

Consultant Editor Praveena Shivram Business Head Sheeba Radhamohan Editorial Coordinator Shefali Ganesh Senior Designer Prem Kumar Consultant Designers 2adpro Circulation Manager R Vijayan Advertising Bengaluru T Mukundan Chennai M Dhiviya Delhi/NCR Preeti Bindra, Ruchika Srivastava Mumbai/Pune Farah Bakshay, Rachana Sinha Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 Email culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 7/2, Edward Road, Off Cunningham Road, Bengaluru – 560052 Tel +91-80-41267152 Email culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon – 122002 Tel +91-124-4354236 Email del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai Rustom Court, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai – 400030 Tel +91-22-66104191/92 Email mum@globaladjustments.com Pune CTS No. 37/1, Bund Garden Road, Next to Jehangir Hospital, Pune – 411001 Mobile +91-9545453023 Email pune@globaladjustments.com To subscribe to this magazine, write to circulation@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.culturama.in Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028, and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

Dear Editor,

“Congratulations on going from strength to strength with this magazine.” Priya Sarukkai Chabria Indian poet, writer and teacher

Dear Editor,

“I have seen the August issue on the Internet and it looks amazing again.” Marcel Van Mourik The Netherlands

Dear Editor,

“I have recently subscribed to your magazine and find it interesting. I enjoyed the ‘Seeing India’ pieces especially.” Asha Balan India

Dear Editor,

“We have been enjoying our copy of Culturama since we arrived in August 2009. Sadly, the time to leave India has come. It’s good news for us that the magazine is available online!” David, Kate, Naomi and James Nash USA

Look out for icons On our website and our magazine we are now using the five icons below to help guide you through the contents. They are based on our five areas where Culturama can really help – giving you an insight into India, its life and culture; finding you great places to shop and fun things to do to enrich your Indian experience; helping you find a home; and connecting you to new friends.

1 2 3 4 5

Read Shop Do Locate Connect

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Culturama’s contributors 01 Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffeetable books. 02 Harini Sankaranarayanan is an ardent foodie and a professional chocolatier. She has a degree in Hotel Management, English literature and theatre. 03 Ian Watkinson is a wrestler of words, a cooker of curries, a dabbler with the tabla, a

persistent photographer and haphazard historian. 04 Bindu Menon is Country Head of Relocation Services at Global Adjustments. She is a reader of books, traveller of lands, and an India enthusiast. 05 Neil Miller is Head of CrossCultural Services at Global Adjustments. He is an American and has been living in Chennai for the past two years.

06 Eknath Easwaran (1910— 1999) was a spiritual teacher, author and founder of the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation in California. www.easwaran.org 07 Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. www.devdutt.com

08 Anita Krishnaswamy is President of Global Adjustments and a relocation expert. She has years of experience working with expat clients across the country. 09 Bipin Khimasia is the President and CEO of Mainstay Teleservices Ltd ( BPO) in Bengaluru. He is an avid travel photographer and has lived in Kenya and Canada, before moving to India in 2007.

09 01

Advisory Board members 10 N Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editorin-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu. 11 Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

12 Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan. Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture. 13 Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for two years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www.mezzemoments.blogspot.com

14 G Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com 15 Beth Chapman is an American business management consultant living in Bengaluru. Former President of the city’s Overseas Women’s Club, Beth is an Indian culture aficionado.

16 Diane Chatterjee is a Scottish insurance professional who has lived in Mumbai for the past seven years. Besides indulging her passion for Indian travel, craft and cuisine, she has been on the Board of Mumbai Connexions, a society for expats. 17 Marcel Van Mourik is a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years. Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture.

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On the Cover

Contents Journeys into India

Seeing India

We journey from the City of Dreams, Kolkata to the city of greens, Thekkady in Kerala.

26 Life's a beach Walk through India's coastline, the sacred, the touristy and the environment-friendly, in our exclusive feature story.

Holistic living

Spiritual guru and teacher, Sri Eknath Easwaran, tells us why it's important to slow down.

From the other side

An expat's perspective of India's yatras or walking pilgrimages.

India’s People

10 In focus In conversation with the acclaimed danseuse and new director of Kalakshetra in Chennai, Priyadarsini Govind.

Thought leaders

Former Chairman of Microsoft, Ravi Venkatesan, on why MNCs need to embrace the chaos in India to succeed.

India’s Culture 14

A-Z of India

26 common Indian slang words to get you started on India!

Short message service

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture.

In your kitchen

Explore the exclusively vegetarian food of the Marwari Jains from Rajasthan.

Myth and mythology

Stories from India’s mythology reinterpreted for practical living.

Festivals of the month

The elephant-headed Lord Ganesh’s birthday and Kerala’s harvest festival, Onam!

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Look who’s in town

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in India.

Calendars

See what’s going on in Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai.

Picture story

A photo journey of India's billboards on its love affair with gold.

At Global Adjustments

It's time to get into the Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition groove.

Global citizen

A cross-cultural perspective to living and working in India.

Give to India

Featuring worthy causes across the country.

Spotlight

A column featuring India’s biggest influences and events.

India writes

A space for India’s abounding world of literature.

Relocations and Property 72

Realty bytes

Practical advice from Global Adjustments’ relocation expert.

Space and the city

Property listings across the metros.

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In focus

by Praveena Shivram

Poised and Ready They say it is easy to spot a dancer in a crowd. They have an inherent grace, the gift of expression that can travel in waves from the eyes to the feet, and an unhurried sense of calm beautifully set to the rhythm of their footsteps. Priyadarsini Govind is no different. As she opens the door to her brand new office at Kalakshetra Foundation and peeps out to say hello, as she flashes you her warm smile that always reaches the eye, as she pauses in between sentences to greet a fellow colleague without hampering the flow of conversation, as she answers her questions quietly and firmly, and as she searches her mind for that one word that would explain her soul, she absolutely personifies the essence of a dancer. Dancing from the age of six and performing since sixteen, Priyadarsini is no stranger on the national and international stage, and continues to perform extensively. “During my teens, when people would ask me what I would like to become, I quite instinctively said ‘a Bharatnatyam dancer’. It’s the love for dancing that led me down this path, rather than a conscious thought or decision. I have always been dancing and performing, through my marriage and two children and despite several other things I pursued in between,” she says.

1 Renowned Bharatnatyam dancer, Priyadarsini Govind, on dance, culture and her newest role as the director of India’s premier institution dedicated to classical dance and music, Kalakshetra

As a member of the audience, if you see a vision of pure art on stage, then as a dancer, Priyadarsini is hardly conscious of this transformation. “When I am on stage, I am not conscious of anything but the dance and the performance. I listen to music before I go on to the stage, though. Not to calm myself, but more because music helps me centre my attention and helps me focus,” she adds. As she tells us why dance means magic to her and why she believes life itself is her favourite dancer, you can’t help but appreciate the fact that there is something rare in Priyadarsini that sets her apart from other dancers – her unbridled enthusiasm for dance and her deep, deep humility that she carries in her every breath. 1. As a Bharatnatyam dancer and now as its director, what does Kalakshetra mean to you? Growing up, I have always marvelled at Smt. Rukmini Devi’s vision to create such an institution. It is truly a haven for art and artistes, where everything is provided for and all you have to do is learn and live. I marvelled at her conscious effort to nurture minds and create a space for the best of talents in music and dance. And the space helps you appreciate nature, and life itself. Today, I am really proud to be a part of this historic institution.

Photo G Venket Ram

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2. Why is the cultural scene so disconnected in Chennai? What is the one practical first step to make us more inclusive? I absolutely support the statement of working together and becoming more inclusive. And I do believe it is good for cultural institutions to have common goals. Having said that, we also need to keep in mind our individual needs and requirements. It is too soon for me to propose practical steps towards this, but there are several ideas that I would like to explore to integrate our rich cultural offerings. 3. Expats and modern youngsters find dance fascinating but too long. Is it sacrilegious to think of a short one-hour performance format? Not at all. The time or duration of a dance performance is not a big issue at all. In the sense, you can’t obviously tell me to give you a five-minute performance. The beauty of the art form is in how it unravels itself. There have been 45-minute and onehour performances, even 20-minute shows. You just choose your pieces accordingly and what matters more is how you present those pieces. As a dancer, your mind is made up too that this is a 20-minute performance and not a three-hour one, so you perform accordingly. 4. What are the three things every woman pursuing her passion must keep in mind and the three things to let go of? The three things to keep in mind are commitment, balance and passion. What you can let go of is negativity of any kind, fear and cowardice. 5. How do you balance the personal and the professional? I try to keep my eye on the goal and don’t look left and right. And the goal could be anything. For instance, I want to be an artiste. Whether it takes hard work, learning from somebody or overcoming minor obstacles, that is the goal I keep in front of me. My gurus taught me a very beautiful thing, to always put art before the person. When I go on stage, I don’t think of myself as Priyadarsini, only the art that we practice exists. Now, I am at Kalakshetra, so Kalakshetra’s goals become my goals. At home, the needs of my children become my needs. The needs of my husband become my need. And the person executing all this is me, naturally, and that is how I view the ‘I’. I become a vessel really, and perhaps, that’s how I am able to balance it all. 1 Photo G Venket Ram

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A to Z of India

by Susan Philip

Getting the Slang of Things

Adipoli

Chamcha

Said with a lot of emphasis, it’s a ‘WOW’ word in Malayalam, the local language of Kerala, India’s southern-most state. For instance, if you’re asked for your opinion on a traditional art show, that one word would say it all.

That's Hindi slang for toadies. When someone is described as a ‘chamcha,’ be warned: it means that the person is viewed as one who says what he thinks his listener wants to hear, rather than expressing his honest opinion or stating facts.

By-two At almost any eatery you could overhear someone tacking this term to an order for tea. Or else, when you order soup at a restaurant, the waiter might look enquiringly at you and ask ‘By-two?’ In some parts of India, the term used is ‘cutting.’ Don’t be mystified or alarmed. It’s neither a thinly veiled threat or a comment on your style of ordering, it’s just shorthand for ‘Do you want your order split into two portions?’ (Even a ‘by-three’ is possible).

Dabba In many parts of India, the word simply means ‘box'. But if you’re in Karnataka, and you hear someone being referred to by that term, you can be sure it’s not flattery. He’s being called a dunce.

1 The constitution of India lists 22 languages under the ‘official’ category, but the ground reality is that there are a bewildering variety of dialects and mothertongues in this vast country. Add to them region-specific slang with connotations and insinuations that are apparent only to the native speaker, and even the average Indian finds himself floundering in anything but his own familiar milieu. Indian slang does not limit itself to Indian languages, but also resorts to the innovative use of English words, which the rest of the world understands differently. Here’s a random sampling of lingo that you may expect to hear in the streets, office corridors, clubs, pubs and marketplaces of India.

Enthaadey? Literally the question why? asked between friends, this Malayalam word is also used to say ‘What’s up?’ and is a term of greeting used commonly by the younger generation.

Family way That's a practically pan-Indian euphemism for expecting a baby. Indians don’t hesitate to enquire into the personal lives of even Photo Magali Reynaud, France

Photo Basia Kruszewska, USA

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genuine. In India, it could also mean everything’s OK, complete or for sure. So you have the ‘pukka sahib’ or the real or fullblooded aristocrat, as well as “I’ll get it done tomorrow, pukka,” meaning both definitely and completely.

Quarter Govindan That’s Tamil slang for someone who’s always at least slightly under the influence of liquor.

Raapchik

Photo Marlon Pieris, Canada

casual acquaintances or to share details of their own, so this term is quite frequently bandied about here.

Grease It eases the passage of paperwork or procurers a ticket out of turn — it means ‘bribe’ and is easily understood.

Haula If you’re in Hyderabad, capital of Andhra Pradesh and also designated capital of the newly announced state of Telengana, chances are you’ll hear this word thrown at you if you inadvertently jaywalk, and a motorcyclist has to swerve to avoid you. He’s calling you names, of course!

Item It can be taken either as a complimentary term or a derogatory one, depending on the point of view, so use with care as an adjective — it means ‘hot chick’.

Jhakkas It’s the Mumbaiite’s way of saying something is ‘mindblowing’. It could be used for anything from a starlet’s performance to a project presentation.

Kela

Osi

The Assamese strew this word through their entire conversation. It’s a multipurpose term which doesn’t mean anything in particular, much like the ‘la’ that people in Malaysia use prolifically.

It's now an accepted word in Tamil and Kannada, and is derived from the letters ‘O.C’ dating back to the British East India Company. These magic alphabets stood for ‘On Company Service’ and any parcel or letter marked ‘O.C’ meant it was exempted from stamps or postage duties. In course of time, it has come to stand for anything that is free of charge. If your company sponsors a concert or a cricket match, you and your family can get ‘osi’ tickets for the event.

Load muth lay It’s a multi-lingual phrase, load being English and the rest Hindi. In other words, don’t get stressed out. When deadlines are menacingly close, it’s free advice that may, or may not go down well, depending on whether it’s just lip service, or it’s accompanied by some practical help.

Machaan

Pukka It’s a Hindi word, but was adopted by the British to mean something that is first class or

In Tamil Nadu, you know you’re accepted as part of the gang if you’re addressed by this term (‘Machi’ if you’re a woman). It literally means brother-in-law. The Malayalam counterpart is ‘Aliyan’, while in Hindi it is ‘Saala’. But be warned, Saala can also be used as a term of abuse.

Nool udradhu Another Tamil term, it implies flirting.

Photo Galina Zagumennova, Russia

Typically a term used in the Mumbai streets for a smartly dressed, good looking girl. By extension, it can be applied to cars, and even to the batting prowess of your favourite cricketer.

Solpa adjust maadi This piece of colloquial Kannada is very useful to know. Say it to a family of five, complete with bulging bags of shopping, squeezed into a bus seat for two, and miraculously, a space opens up! Literally meaning ‘please adjust a little bit’, it works like magic. At the sound of it, all injuries, trodden-upon toes included, are immediately forgiven.

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Tube light

X-pletives

A reference to the florescent tube-shaped lamps which blinked and flickered and took ages to come on — it is a derogatory comment on a person’s grasping power. Thankfully, the new versions of tube lights are much quicker off the mark!

All languages in India, as in the rest of the world, are replete with these. It takes an inventive brain and a good command of the language to come up with insults that sear, and the Indian brain is particularly inventive. Many a word can seem harmless on the face of things, but carry hidden shades of abuse and disrespect. Learn local terms by all means, but do check on acceptability before you try them out in mixed company or in an official context.

Udees In Kannada it means ‘no good’. It could refer to the quality of both men and materials.

Vela Hindi slang, commonly used in Delhi for a person who has nothing to do, and simply whiles time away. You hear it a lot on University campuses!

Would be This is a typical Indianism for ‘to be’. Unlike the English connotation, it in no way denotes anything derogatory. For instance, “This is my would be daughter-in-law” simply means “my son’s fiancé”, not “the girl who thinks (in her dreams!) that she’s going to marry my son”.

Photo Steven Birnie, USA

Yaar A Hindi word meaning friend, it’s an accepted colloquialism. “Hi Yaar!” is a common greeting. Casual conversation is also liberally interspersed with this word, as in “Arey, Yaar, have you heard the news? Rohit has got a promotion.” In Tamil and Kannada, Yaar is replaced by da (or di, in the case of women) and in Telugu, by ra.

Zabardast Amazing! That's what it means. What a zabardast country India is! Photo Nancy Reisig, USA

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by Suzanne McNeill Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Crafts of India Bamboo Craft of Assam

Language Gujarati

Bamboo has notable economic and cultural significance in South Asia. It is fast growing, and vast expanses of the plant are to be found across the forests of Assam in north-east India, where it has long been used as a versatile raw product — sources from early literature reveal that the craft was diverse and highly sophisticated 2,000-plus years ago. Many of the state’s everyday utensils are made from split bamboo, such as mats, baskets and trays, and there is a long tradition of manufacturing furniture that pairs bamboo and cane, which also grows abundantly in the region. Local fisherman use rods, traps and cages made from bamboo, and large woven sections are used for roofing and as panels and screens in dwelling places. It is a cottage industry craft, practiced in every household, while small units of artisans practice the craft in more built-up areas of the state.

Gujarati is one of the official languages of India, with 46,091,617 speakers recorded in the 2001 Census of India, and was the mother tongue of Mahatma Gandhi. Gujarati developed from Old Gujarati, spoken from 1100 to 1500 BCE by the Gurjars who lived and ruled in the Punjab, Rajputana and central India, as well as Gujarat. The next period, Middle Gujarati, saw the Rajasthani element of the language split away, and the transition to Modern Gujarati was complete from 1800 onwards. Gujarati script was adapted from Devanagari script, the standardised script of the Hindi language, but until the 19th century it was used mainly for writing letters and keeping accounts, while the Devanagari script was used for literature and academic writings. Consequently, the Gujarati script is also known as the saraphi (banker’s), vepari (merchant’s) or mahajani (trader’s) script. The word ‘bungalow’ entered the English language from the Gujarati word bangalo meaning ‘low thatched house’.

Art Madhubani Folk Paintings Madhubani folk paintings are indigenous to the Mithila region of northern Bihar, which borders Nepal. They are highly thematic and symbolic, painted on the walls of dwellings such as the kohabar ghar, the room where newlyweds spend the first night of their marriage, with scenes depicting passionate love. Other images are painted to mark ceremonial space for festivals or feature stories of the deities and are dedicated to the gods. It is said that Sita, Lord Rama’s wife, came from Mithila, and stories from the Ramayana are commonly depicted. Madhubani paintings date back to the seventh century BCE. The figures depicted are two-dimensional and linear in form. There is no shading, and the strong double lines of the forms are filled with geometrical patterns inspired by the flora and fauna of the region. The artists are female, and several have received national recognition over recent years. Madhubani painting was awarded Geographical Indication status earlier in 2013.

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Words Kama and Karma

Textile Rabari Embroidery of Kutch

Kama means desire and is pronounced kaa-ma (extended aa in the first syllable). Legitimate desires, or entertainment, are allowed, in fact encouraged in the Hindu way of life. Kama, pleasure or enjoyment by rightful means, is regarded as the third of the four aims of man (the others being duty or dharma, wealth or artha, and liberation or moksha). Karma comes from the Sanskrit word meaning 'action' and is pronounced like cur-ma (the first syllable sounds like 'cur' of current not car). Hindus often attribute the fortune and misfortune that befalls them to their Karma — the consequence of the good and bad actions or deeds performed by a person in the present or past life. Karma operates across lifetimes, with the consequences of an action in one lifetime being experienced in another, and therefore we cannot totally control our present but are masters of our own future destinies or lives.

The Kutch district of Gujarat in western India is home to many tribal peoples, including the Rabari. Historically, the Rabari were nomads, but today many are settled in small hamlets and villages. Unchanged is the craft of Rabari embroidery, the highly recognisable form of needlework by which the women of the community decorate textiles for themselves and their families. Essential to Rabari embroidery is the use of small mirrors in different shapes, outlined by buttonhole and chain stitching and accentuated by skilled needlework in bright, bold silks. This is applied to the dress of women and children, but most importantly to a bride’s trousseau. Young unmarried women traditionally prepare their own dowry, which includes wedding apparel, bags, bedcovers and even decorative covers for the livestock associated with the Rabaris semi-nomadic lifestyle. A bride may only enter her husband’s home once these preparations are complete. See the basics of Rabari embroidery at http://tinyurl.com/rabari1 and http://tinyurl.com/rabari2.

Tribes of India Santhal Tribe The Santhal people are India’s largest tribal community, numbering around 5.5 million across the north-east states of West Bengal, Bihar, Odisha, Jharkhand and Assam. Their lives revolve around the forests and rivers of the region, where they hunt and fish and work as farm labourers. The Santhal are animist, with a unique religion and culture. They believe in a world of spirits or bonga, who are present in every village and household, and who must be placated with prayers and offerings. Religious leaders are shaman, who practice medicine and prophecy and lead the community through the annual agricultural cycle as well as the rituals of birth, marriage and death. The Karam Festival in September and October is their most popular, with dance an important part of the festivities. The Santhal organises its own judicial and social systems under the head of each community, called Manhhi Hadam. They are famous for their resistance to British rule.

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Photo Esben Agersnap, Denmark

Urban Adventure Commercial Street, Bengaluru

Past Influencer M F Husain

Visitors to Bengaluru are often drawn by the city’s designer shops, department stores and glistening malls, but the long-established shopping districts can offer a much livelier retail experience. Commercial Street runs through the centre of a grid of small streets and bylanes close to the central business district, and is lined with shops selling everything from international designer brands to local textile retailers operating from overstuffed godowns. The area, which includes Dispensary Road, Ebrahim Sahib Street and Narayan Pillai Street, is a must for women’s fashion and accessories, both Indian ethnic and Western, as well as jewellery, crafts, toys and décor items. Roadside food stalls sell fast food such as savoury chaat and pani puri alongside what’s said to be Sachin Tendulkar’s favourite sweet shop, Anand’s Sweets. Locals and tourists alike throng the shops, most of which are open by 10.30 a.m. Carry cash for the smaller stores, and have a go at bargaining!

India’s greatest modern artist started his career as a billboard painter, but an invitation to join the Progressive Artist’s Group in 1948 exposed him to new influences that he assimilated into his work, and by the mid-1950s he was one of the country’s leading artists. His paintings demonstrated the draughtsmanship and scale of his early training: forceful, vibrant and very distinct. A favoured theme was Indian iconography (Mother Teresa, Krishna and Saraswati), another motif was the horse. Great murals of Husain’s works adorn public spaces, for example, in the departure hall at Delhi airport. Husain’s prodigious career (10,000-plus canvases!) was marked by national and international awards and exhibitions, accompanied by a celebrity status that made him India’s most recognisable artist and ‘a national heritage site’. He died in exile in London in 2011, driven out of his beloved country by right-wing groups that filed lawsuits against him for ‘obscenity’ and for hurting religious sentiment.

Interpretations: The Ganga Aarti As it flows through Varanasi, the Ganges riverside is lined by stone ghats, or steps, and thousands of pilgrims come here for ritual ablution and to view the spectacular Ganga Aarti, a puja performed at the city’s Dashashwamedh Ghat every evening. Aarti (aa means ‘complete’ and rati means ‘love’) is always performed facing the deity or divine element, in this case the Ganges, India’s most holy river. Integral to any aarti puja is the circulation of the lamp around the deity, which acquires the deity’s power. The priest then offers the lamp to the devotees, passing on the deity’s blessing. The priests at Dashashwamedh Ghat begin the Ganga Aarti around 6.45 p.m., lighting lamps and chanting mantras. They offer incense, rotating the sticks in synchronised movements, and then perform the aarti with brass lamps burning camphor, all to the accompaniment of singing, flutes, handbells and gongs. The ceremony lasts up to 45 minutes.

Photo Stephanie Poitrasson , France

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Photo courtesy E-Hotel, Chennai

In your kitchen by Harini Sankaranarayanan

Comfort Food 1 The Marwari Jains of Rajasthan are part of one of the few communities in India that remain environment-friendly, in thought, deed, action, and, of course, food

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Gatte Ki Subzi Ingredients For the Gatte 1 cup besan (chickpea flour) 1 tsp cumin powder 1 tsp red chilli powder A generous pinch of asafoetida 2 tbsp vegetable oil Salt to taste Water to make the dough Method – Add all the ingredients together and make a stiff dough. – Roll into a long rope and cut into bite-sized pieces. – In a large pan bring some water to boil and add the pieces of dough to the water – When the pieces float up they will be cooked. – Remove with a slotted spoon and allow to drain. For the gravy 1 cup yoghurt ½ tsp cumin powder 2 tsp coriander powder ½ tsp turmeric powder 1 ½ tsp chilli powder (more or less can be added according to taste) Salt to taste 1tbsp oil Method – Mix all the dry spices and salt with the yoghurt and beat well. – Heat oil in a pan. – Add the yogurt mixture and stir well on medium heat. – Add the cooked gatte and continue to cook until the oil separates. – Serve hot with rotis or rice.

Anita Dhakra has lived in Chennai for so long that she no longer remembers how life could have been in hot, dry Rajasthan. The Marwari Jains might have lived originally in the Marwar regions of the desert state but now can be found in almost every corner of India. “As a community, we are very different. We try to follow the dictate of non-violence in all aspects of life,” explains Anita. So how does this translate into food habits? “We try to make sure that no creature, great or small, is harmed when we prepare our food.” Is that not what vegetarianism is all about, one may wonder; but Jain food demands a category all on its own. A Marwari Jain will not eat onions, garlic or any root vegetable, in case little creatures are killed when the plant is uprooted. So, no potatoes, carrots, beets or radish in their cooking. It is almost impossible to imagine cooking without these basics. This community, however, do it on an everyday basis and yet will not compromise on flavour or taste. To complicate matters a little more, Jains usually prefer to finish their last meal of the day before sunset. “This usually means that we are terribly hungry in the morning so we do not usually bother with breakfast. It is lunch straight away, served early,” adds Anita. Lunch is a meal fit for the kings. There is usually roti and dhal of some kind, lots of vegetables that are in season. Food is cooked with ghee or clarified butter for energy, a little rice to go with the gravy, and a giant-sized pappad finishes the meal. The weather is not kind to the Marwari Jains. So when vegetables are available in plenty, they dry them with some seasoning and store them to be used when the rations are sparse. The cooking is relatively simple. Very few spices are used, the staple being cumin, coriander, turmeric and, not to forget, lots of chillies. Yoghurt is used as a base for a lot of their curries. The Gatte ki Subzi is a popular dish which makes clever use of the available ingredients. Using chickpea flour instead of vegetables, the Jains make little dumplings out of the flour. Simmered in a gravy using yogurt, the substantial dish is cooked both in the summer and the winter months. An early dinner is similar to the lunch. Rotis and vegetables complete the simple meal.

September 2013

During the rainy season, Marwari Jains have a further restriction. Many of them will not eat green leafy vegetables because the rainy weather brings all the little insects to hide within the folds of the leaves. Some orthodox Jains will fast the entire month, subsisting only on water. Lest we think the Marwari cuisine does not have much to offer in terms of variety, Anita reassures us. “You will be amazed at the variety that is on offer. Our children love vegetables and we do not have to force it on them. We also have a very sweet tooth. Sweets are never served as dessert at the end of the meal. It is served in the beginning, middle and the end! Our halwas, especially, are world famous.” Any self-respecting cook will have at least ten halwas in his repertoire. The Badam (almond) Halwa and the Moong Dal (Mung Beans) halwa being the most famous. The Besan Chakki and a fudge-like sweet made of chickpea flour are other staples. The most famous of them is the Dal Baati Churma served hot with ghee. The Marwari Jain cuisine reflects the environment that gave rise to it. Simple and almost sparse in the use of spices and reflecting the fiery summers in the generous use of the hot chillies. The snacks are rich and sweet like the people the land nurtures. Unique in flavour, it is steeped in the traditions of the people who believe that life is sacrosanct and in the policy of “live and let live”. 1 Did You Know? The Marwari Jain community’s traditional occupation has been trade. The Marwari traders have historically been migratory in habit. The Marwari language is a dialect of the Rajasthani language. The latter evolved from the old Gujarati language spoken by the people in Gujarat and Rajasthan. Traditionally, all the men would sit on the floor and the women of the house would serve hot piping food on small stools called chowkis.

September 2013

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Feature by Suzanne McNeill

Life’s a beach

Photo Jon Moellebro, The Netherlands

1 The coastline of the Indian peninsula extends for more than 4,500 km from the salt marshes of the Rann of Kutch in the west to the mangrove forests of West Bengal in the east. Countless beaches are to be found along this vast coastline, linking fishing villages with coastal towns and large cities, each with its own culture and style

City beaches Marina beach, Chennai Marina Beach can be described as Chennai’s playground. Famously, it is one of the longest city beaches in the world, a broad stretch of soft sand that extends 5 km from Fort St George to Santhome Cathedral, and a further 8 km south beyond that. It is a daytime beach: early morning sees people out walking, jogging and practising yoga, as the fishermen return from their night’s work, and it soon fills up, particularly as the city’s dwellers try to escape the soaring summer heat and enjoy the non-stop breeze. Kids playing cricket and football, families picnicking, peddlers hawking small goods and snacks, pony rides and palm readers — all add to the sociable and lively feel of this vast and expansive beach. Unlike many beaches, Marina Beach is not lined with bars, restaurants and amusement arcades, nor does it offer the usual amenities associated with beach tourism. Instead, it is a place where the people of Chennai go to refresh both body and soul.

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September 2013

Chowpatty beach, Mumbai By contrast, Mumbai’s Chowpatty Beach comes to life as the sun starts to set, and an evening visit to Chowpatty Beach is said to be an essential part of any trip to the city. While people come throughout the day to wander, to sit on the sand and to picnic, a carnival atmosphere takes hold in the evenings, and particularly on Saturdays, with fair rides, astrologers, monkey shows and vendors hiring beach mats and selling balloons, toys and snacks all adding to the clamour. Central to the experience is Mumbai’s street food such as spicy raw mango, roasted peanuts, chaat and the famous bhel puri, sold from beach-side stalls and eaten while strolling and people-watching. Chowpatty Beach draws huge crowds during September’s Ganesh Chathurthi festival, when thousands gather to watch the immersion of the Ganesh statues that have been displayed and worshipped around the city during the preceding ten days.

Kanyakumari beach, Kanyakumari Both sunrise and sunset are the attractions for visitors to Kanyakumari beach, at mainland India’s southernmost tip. Here is the spot where India’s three oceans meet, the Bay of Bengal from the east, the Arabian Sea from the west, and the Indian Ocean from the south, and thousands visit each year to see the sun rise and set from the same position. In April, during full-moon, it’s possible to see both the setting sun and the rising moon on the same horizon. As with the city beaches, there is a pleasant general ambience, with hawkers selling sea-shells, ice-cream, tea and coffee to visitors. Kanyakumari is essentially a place of pilgrimage. Devotees are drawn each year to visit the temple associated with the goddess Kanya Devi, the local deity who guards the shoreline, and to bathe in the sea where the three oceans flow together. Other beaches around the country have similar sacred significance.

Photo Nancy Reisig, USA

Photo Clara Thommes, France

Sacred beaches Puri beach, Orissa The coastal plains of the eastern state of Orissa are home to many of India’s historical and religious monuments, and the city of Puri is one of Hinduism’s most holy sites. Believed to be the home of Jagannath, the Lord of the Universe and considered a form of Vishnu, Puri is one of four auspicious centres of pilgrimage in India. Countless pilgrims visit the beach each year to purify themselves in the sea as part of the ritual of their visit to the Jagannath temple or their participation in the great devotional procession called the Rath Yatra, or Chariot Festival, when the Jagannath triad of deities (Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra and Subhadra) are taken in procession around Puri in huge wooden chariots. There are many versions of the story that ties Jagannath to Puri. One relates that King Indramena, a ruler of ancient Orissa, found the god Vishnu in the form of a tree stump washed upon Puri beach. He carried the lump of wood to the temple and, following instructions from Brahma, asked the court carpenter to carve out the image that became the iconic form of the idol now worshipped.

Gokarna beach, Karnataka The village of Gokarna midway along India’s western coast, backed by the foothills of the Western Ghats, is another sacred site for Hindus, for it is believed that Rudra was born here. Rudra is identified as Lord Shiva’s fierce and destructive aspect, and it is said he was born through the ear of a cow, after a period of penance. Gokarna is also home to the prana lingam, stolen from Shiva’s home on Mount Kailash in the Himalayas by Ravana, the evil king of Lanka. Legend says worshippers can maximise the lingam’s purifying power by taking a holy dip in the sea before viewing the deity, and so pilgrims begin their tour of Gokarna with a walk to the broad, white-sand beach to bathe in the ocean and offer prayer.

September 2013

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Kovalam beach, Kerala

Photo James Beasley, UK

Tourist beaches Calangute and Baga beaches, Goa India’s beach culture changes dramatically on reaching the once-infamous party beaches of Goa. The hedonism that characterised the influx of foreign travellers to Calangute and Baga beaches, from hippies in the 1960s through to the ravers of the 1990s, has given way to charter flights and package tours. For many, Goa still boasts of beaches that are amongst the best in India and on a par with those of South-East Asia, and which are characterised by blue seas and long stretches of sand against a verdant backdrop of palm trees and coconut trees. International tourists and Indians alike visit in their thousands to laze, sunbathe, walk, build sandcastles, swim in the sea and take part in water sports, whilst the party scene survives in more mainstream style in permanent club venues.

Photo Karen Foster, Denmark

Kovalam is Kerala’s most developed beach resort, boasting of three adjacent crescent-shaped beaches separated by rocky outcrops and lined with cafés and small shops. The locals are known for being easy-going and relaxed, and the area is characterised by a string of yoga schools and Ayurveda treatment centres, massage parlours and centres for meditation. These attract an alternative, health-conscious and less touristy crowd than Goa, who may spend the entire morning from dawn in practice at their discipline, sunbathe in the afternoon and who will eat a simple vegetarian meal in the evening ahead of an early night. Consequently, the nightlife is very low key. Traditional Kerala coastal life hasn’t retreated too far from the tourist spots, with fishing boats crowding the beaches beyond where the sands are used primarily for landing catch and fixing nets.

Mamallapuram beach, Tamil Nadu A different beach atmosphere again is to be found at the ancient seaside town of Mamallapuram on the Coromandel Coast, around an hour’s drive south of Chennai. Mamallapuram is the site of some of India’s most extraordinary stone-carved rock sculptures and temples, including the windswept Shore Temple, which sits on a rocky outcrop jutting into the Bay of Bengal. The silver sands of the beach lined with grey-green casuarina trees alongside such stunning archeological monuments has always attracted tourists, and there’s a thriving backpacker scene that sustains budget hotels, simple cafés, trinket sellers and tour guides.

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September 2013

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Photo Christopher Wheeler, UK

Photo Balazs Szolga, Hungary

Photo Lair Showalter, USA

Eco beaches

Practical tips The beach can be a place where Indian conservatism and Western self-indulgence co-exist uneasily. For many foreigners, the beach is a place to strip off, soak up the sun and swim in the sea, while their Indian counterparts look to the beach as a place to cool down in the sea breezes, to picnic with family or to meditate. Here are some practical tips to ensure everyone enjoys being on the beach together: •

Lakshadweep Lakshadweep is a group of 27 tiny, coconut- and palm-covered coral islands, found at a distance of 200 to 400 km off India’s south-west coast in the aqua blue waters of the Arabian Sea. The pristine white sands are surrounded by calm lagoons that are rich with coral reefs, attracting scuba divers and lovers of nature. Coral reefs are often called the rainforests of the sea, and form diverse and productive ecosystems. Lakshadweep’s islands host a rich variety of aquatic life, including sea turtles, dolphins, octopus, sharks and many species of fish. Tourism in Lakshadweep is focused on the natural world of the beaches, the flora and fauna, and the marine life, and the islands are becoming known as a destination for water sports such as canoeing, snorkelling and water skiing. Concerted attempts are being made to minimise the ecological impact of tourism in Lakshadweep.

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Andaman Islands Another archipelago, the Andaman Islands are situated 1,000 km off India’s east coast. The main attraction for visitors is the crystal-clear waters and the pristine reefs that ring the islands, which are filled with dazzling corals and colourful fish. The seas are unspoiled and marine life abundant. The beaches themselves are picturesque, uncrowded and tranquil. Radhanagar on Havelock Island is said to be one of Asia’s top five beaches, framed by a brilliantly blue sky, turquoise seas and a thick evergreen treeline. Another Havelock beach, Elephant Beach, is probably the only beach in the world to offer elephant rides! 1

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On many beaches, including Marina Beach and Chowpatty Beach, swimming is not permitted. Strong undertows and currents can make swimming difficult and unsafe. Only swim at beaches with lifeguards, or, better still, swim at resort or hotel pools. Nudity and topless sunbathing are not acceptable. Don’t be surprised that Indian women will bathe in the ocean fully clothed in saris or salwars! The ocean and sun are worshipped in India. Don’t be surprised if people seem to be offering prayers to the sun or water god. Photo opportunities are great on an Indian beach, which is often the most economical outing for families. Ask and shoot away – people usually don’t mind. The food sold from stalls is a big attraction at beaches, but an expat tummy may react to it! International brands such as Walls ice-creams are fine to buy on beaches, though. Take water and food with you when visiting out-of-the-way beaches – many have no facilities at all. If there are fishing villages near your beach, be prepared that parts of the beach may be unsanitary. Take your garbage home with you, even if others seem to be throwing theirs around And finally, close your eyes and reflect on the fact that you are on a beach in India, somewhere your forebears would never have imagined visiting!

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September 2013

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Emily (left, above and inset) on conquering the mountains of Ladakh and the Mumbai Marathon

On the Go Look who’s in town Mumbai 1 Our fitness guru for Mumbai is American Investment Manager Emily Paarmann who has cycled her way through Ladakh at 5,300 meters, trekked the hilly terrains of the Western Ghats and run the Mumbai Marathon, too!

Talking to New Yorker Emily Paarmann isn’t easy if you are not wearing your running shoes. No, seriously, because, fitness for Emily means being outdoors and being outdoors, even in the bustling city of Mumbai, means to run, cycle, swim and run, cycle and swim some more. “I started running seriously about five years ago, and oddly enough, I love running in cold weather — slightly above freezing temperatures! When I lived in New York, I would put on a fleece and ear muffs and head to Central Park for a 10k run in the middle of the snow. Needless to say, I don’t find opportunities to do that in Mumbai!” she says, as we try to imagine that in hot, hotter and hottest India! “Of course, I find the pollution and humidity in Mumbai to be worse than in New York, so I have had to adapt to these challenges and recognise my limits,” she says. “So, if I could run the full 42 km Mumbai Marathon back home, I could only do half that Marathon here,” she adds. And so, the woman who found her best friend on a hash run, runs us through (pun unintended!) the fitness options in the city: Mumbai's fit stop Try new activities — there is no dearth of fitness in Mumbai, from yoga studios to Bollywood dance,

Salsa, and I even found a Capoeira (Brazilian martial arts) workout! My pick would be to go for a run at 6 a.m. on a Sunday morning along Carter Road or Marine Drive — it is one of the few times that the city is quiet and you can get the streets to yourself. Try F2 Fitness in Bandra. It offers a wide range of cardio and strength training classes to keep you fit — including kickboxing, dance, and a yoga/pilates mix. Check out the Bombay Hash runners club — it is a group that runs together two Sundays a month (many walk as well). One Sunday is always in the city, and the second Sunday is at a location outside of Mumbai. After the run, indulge in food and drinks and get to know the other “hashers!” When in the United States Cycling is one of the best ways to see a new place, so rent a cycle and explore some trails. Hiking is also very popular — Virginia (my home state) has beautiful, lush mountains with waterfalls that are perfect for treks. And of course, try your hand at some activities that aren’t too common in India, such as skiing or surfing, which are very popular both on the east and west coasts. 1

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September 2013

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Helen lives it up in Chennai in style!

Multiple City Look who’s in town Chennai 1 British marketing manager HELEN TAYLOR shares her tips for making the most of your time in Chennai

Coming from a cottage in a sleepy village in England’s picturesque Derbyshire hills, nothing but India, particularly Chennai, could have presented Helen Taylor with a bigger, utterly unpredictable contrast. Back in the United Kingdom, she was a full-time marketing manager for an environmental NGO and spent her spare time singing in a choir, rock climbing and hill walking, while in Chennai, she discovered herself as a writer and teacher, and found the city behind all its obvious tourist attractions. “I think people often avoid Chennai because it’s big and crowded, but once you get to know it there are so many beautiful places to see and lots going on in the arts scene,” she explains, before taking us on a tour of her ‘new home’. Top three things A productive way to spend time in Chennai is to take advantage of the cultural events taking place all the time. Do check out the National Art Gallery at the Government Museum in Egmore, DakshinaChitra down the East Coast Road for South Indian architecture and crafts, and events at the Alliance Francaise, Lady Andal Hall, Museum Theatre or the Music Academy. For those fitness enthusiasts, who find jogging or walking on Chennai’s busy roads hard, try salsa! The best Latin dance nights in Chennai are at the Star Bar at Spring Hotel in Nungumbakkam, The Winchester Bar at the Radisson Blu in Egmore, or Havana Bar at The Raintree Hotel on St. Mary’s Road. You can take lessons with one of India’s dance champions at the LVDS Studio on Harrington Road.

For the weekends, Ideal Beach Resort, on the way to Mahabalipuram, is a great place to splash around in the pool or paddle in the sea for an afternoon. Top tips 01. Compared to other Indian cities, Chennai is relatively conservative and I have found that people appreciate efforts to dress and behave modestly. 02. I have also found that one of the best ways to get by is to get out and about on foot, during the cooler times of day, and to be open to conversations with strangers. 03. Always take a bottle of water with you and keep a compact camera handy because you never know when you might see something amazing. When in England One of the first things Indian travellers notice when they visit England is the changeable weather, which is something we Brits like to talk about a lot! Wrap up warm and bring a decent raincoat and you will be ready for anything! The second thing visitors often notice is how expensive everything is — particularly in London. But rather than splash out on afternoon tea at The Ritz or tickets to the grossly over-priced Madame Tussauds, why not check out the ‘real’ city, with a walk around the bustling markets of East London or a saunter up Primrose Hill for panoramic views. Finally, don’t leave without spending an evening in a traditional country pub, drinking real ale by the fire and eating a plate of traditional fish and chips or home-made pie. 1

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September 2013

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Work in Progress Rob takes a photo-break at his workplace in Bengaluru

Look who’s in town Bengaluru 1 Britisher Rob Andrews, Creative Director with an advertising agency in Bengaluru, and the mastermind behind Culturama’s new look, shares his insights on how to make working in India work!

Married to a Sri Lankan Tamil, and with three children with incredibly Indian names — Laxmi, Radha and Milan (pronounced ma-yi-lan, which means peacock in Tamil) — it’s hard to believe that Rob Andrews hasn’t lived in India all his life. “I first came here on a three-day recce trip in October 2009. It was misty when I got in at 5 a.m. Then it was incredibly hot for every other moment that I was here. I saw houses and schools that made my toes curl, and I spent a lot of time in the back of ramshackle cabs. They all freaked me out and filled me with dread,” he recalls. “But I retreated every night to Brunton Road, and something about Brunton Road made me optimistic; and I saw a school that I knew would change my kids’ life. So, now Bengaluru is home and the things that freaked me out, I don’t even think of as strange anymore.” Okay, so maybe Rob hasn’t lived in India all his life, but when we watch his quiet assurance at the workplace and his objective acceptance of a culture that thrives on unpredictability, we should have probably said that India, quite unconsciously, has lived with Rob all his life. Work—life balance I worked my whole career in London, and in a profession — graphic design — that tends to rather unhealthily blur the boundary between work time and personal time. When I got to India I discovered the expectation that if my clients were working, then I’d be working; that my mobile phone was expected to be always on and I was

expected to always be at the end of it. The balance tipped over dramatically towards work, and it took a long time to wrestle back control. Work tips 01. It’s nice to be called ‘sir’, but it’s also nice to call people ‘sir’. Deference and respect still have their place in India, and one should be equally comfortable giving and receiving. 02. Similarly, if you are hired to be a boss, remember that. Don’t fall into the Western management mentality that believes that to be a good boss, you also need to be a friend to everyone you meet. 03. This is hyperbole, but it helps. Ask an Indian if it can be done and they’ll always say “yes”, ask an Englishman and they’ll always say “no”. They might neither of them be right, but the Indian attitude is by far the more beneficial, where interesting ideas aren’t grounded simply because they seem insurmountable at first sight. Gang of helpers On my way to the airport via the packed, local fast train in Mumbai once, I’d managed to get myself on the wrong side of the train. So I yelled out that I was getting off at Vile Parle. As the train was slowing into the station, two guys near the door took a lapel each and pulled me through people towards them, launching me onto the platform just as the train stopped. Important lesson: no matter how tough and seemingly hopeless India gets, there will always be a gang of people who want to help. 1

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September 2013

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Marianne and Tom enjoy a sunny afternoon romp on their lawns

Meet the Pet Look who’s in town Delhi 1 Town Planner and Photographer from The Netherlands, Marianne van Loo gives us the ‘head to tail’ checklist for expat pet lovers to follow in the capital.

Marianne van Loo holds a special place in her heart for the city of New Delhi, having moved here two years ago from the United Kingdom. It is the city that gave her opportunity to self-publish a book about Gurgaon along with her friend Cara Louwman (www.gurgaonportraitofacity.com). It is also the city that gave her Tom, her one-anda-half-year old Labrador. “We adopted him as a puppy in a little pet shop in Yashwant Place. I went in one day and said I would like a two-month old, male, black Labrador and the shopkeeper said, come back in half-an-hour and there was little Tom and of course we immediately fell in love with him and took him home that instant!” recounts Marianne excitedly. And, just like Marianne, Tom too seems to have a special connection with the city. “Tom has a friend and protector in Tomy, a street dog who joins us on our walks. He ensures Tom is okay by barking off other stray dogs and has become a part of our extended family!” Vet it out In Delhi, I would recommend Pet Planet and it is in 16, DDA Market at Gulmohar Park, Tel: 26865737. It’s a tiny clinic but Tom has received excellent care there, like anti-rabies vaccinations. Once Tom was bitten by another dog and the vet cleaned it up perfectly and made sure Tom was better in a few days. For any major surgeries, try the CGS hospital, which is just off MG Road when you drive into Gurgaon. This hospital is very clean and sterile,

and they can keep pets overnight for observations. Their address is S25, Sit No 2204, DLF Phase III Gurgaon, Tel: 0124-4115580. Another recommendation for pet care, which I haven’t used yet, but a friend of mine did, is Red Paws Pet Spa in Hauz Khas Village at 29A, First Floor, Tel: 9711457626. They provide bathing, grooming, nail clipping, ear cleaning, etc. Doggy tips 01. Make sure you find a vet immediately, so he can recommend all the necessary vaccinations. 02. Find appropriate accommodation for you and your pet. 03. Teach them some Hindi as hopefully they will become great friends with your new extended household, such as guards, maids and drivers! When in the United Kingdom If an Indian plans to adopt a pet in the United Kingdom it would be a good idea to have a look at institutions such as RSPA shelters, where unwanted pets are cared for and who are looking to be re-homed. It would also be a good idea to have your pet ‘chipped’, so if it runs away it can be traced easily. In the United Kingdom many pet shops now also provide a grooming service, so make sure your pets get that little bit of extra attention by taking them there once in a while. All towns seem to have kennels, so before you go on a holiday get yourself acquainted with some kennels, and even try letting your pets stay for a night just to see how they get on. 1

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September 2013

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September Calendar of events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across the cities of Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs

Art & exhibitions

The Delhi Photo Festival New Delhi

Group Show Mumbai

The best of International and Indian photography will be brought together under the umbrella of the biennial Delhi Photo Festival. This initiative of India Habitat Centre and Nazar Foundation aims to create awareness of photographic arts and gives an opportunity for art lovers to interact. The theme of the festival this year is ‘Grace’, as a tribute to the late artist Prabuddha Dasgupta. Entry is free. Also check out workshops held by leading photographers. Visit www. delhiphotofestival.com for more details.

Apparao Galleries will present an art exhibition titled ‘Hidden Histories and Geographies of the World, Narratives in Art in India’. The exhibition combines an eclectic group of artists who have experimented with sculptures, paintings and images to tell the story of contemporary life. Contact 09867575259 or e-mail gallery@ apparaoart.com for more details.

Date September 27 to October 11 Time 1100h to 1900h Venue Various venues across Delhi

Date On till September 30 Venue Four Seasons Hotel, 114, Dr E Moses Road, Worli, Mumbai

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Festivals and events

India International Disability Film Festival Chennai

The Monsoon Football League 2013 Mumbai

The Ability Foundationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s film festival is an annual event that tries to bridge the divide between persons with and without disability. The festival, started in 2005, sensitises people about the underlining philosophy of an inclusive society. The festival will feature short films, documentaries and feature films from around the world. Entry is free. Call 044-24520016 or visit http://www. abilityfoundation.org for more details.

Football lovers can witness a spectacular match in the Monsoon Football League 2013, presented by Soccer Schools of Excellence and Astro Sports. The maximum number of teams that can participate is 40 with 9 players per team. The top four teams in each Sub League compete in the knock-outs. Winners receive a cash prize of Rs. 1.5 lakh. Call 022-24813333 for more details.

Date September 23 to 26 Venue Sathyam Cinemas, Royapettah, Chennai

The Edinburgh International Science Festival Bengaluru Coming to India for the first time, this Science Festival first began in 1989 as an educational event that encourages people of all ages and backgrounds to discover the wonder of the world around them. The festival will showcase more than 15 mega science experiments and also a science show. Look out for contests and workshops at the festival. Exclusive timings are available for schools. Visit http://sciencefestival.in/ for more details. Date On till September 8 Time 1000h to 2000h on weekdays, 1100h to 1900h on weekends Venue Bhartiya City, Hebbal, Bengaluru

Date Till September 21 Time 2000h to 1200h Venue Atria, The Millennium Mall, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai

Onam Celebrations Chennai DakshinaChitra, the centre for showcasing arts and culture of South Indian states, will be celebrating Keralaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s harvest festival, Onam. A troupe from Kerala will perform Mangalam Kali, a folk dance of the state. Visit www.dakshinachitra.net for more details. Date Till September 8 Venue DakshinaChitra, Muttukadu, East Coast Road

September 2013

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Theatre and music

English Play Bengaluru

English Play – The New Festival New Delhi

Theatre group Perch presents ‘Ms. Meena’, a play by Rashmi Ruth Devadasan. The play is inspired by the classic play, ‘The Visit’ by Swiss-German playwright, Friedrich Durrenmatt. It tells the story of an iconic film star who returns to her village that has descended into dire poverty, and the ray of hope that she brings to it. The play uses a combination of humour and pathos and brings in an element of cinema as well. Book your tickets on www.indianstage.in

‘Osama, Cinema and a whole lot of Black Money’, the short play by Stray Factory theatre group is part of The Park’s New Festival. The one-hour play will feature cinematic villages, balloon-popping politicians and omnipresent magicians. Successfully running in its seventh edition, the New Festival is organised by The Park Hotels and curated by Prakriti Foundation. It is India’s only contemporary performance arts festival and will showcase cutting edge acts and visual arts by artists from around the world. The festival has events across all metros; visit www.theparksnewfestival.com for more details.

Date September 27 to October 6 Time 1900h Venue Jagriti Theatre, Bengaluru

Date September 13 Venue The Park, Mantra, New Delhi

Choir Singing Mumbai Songbound, a music outreach initiative, will have its choir of children singing on the theme of monsoon. The Songbound programme reaches out to India’s most disadvantaged children and brings them the joy of music in a simple manner. The choirs are formed by children from schools and homes from across Mumbai. The children are taught traditional songs from both England and India. For more details, call 022-61586158. Date September 11 Time 1930h to 2030h Venue Blue Frog, Mathuradas Mills Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai

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September 2013

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Calendar spaces Know your city

Chennai Russian Centre of Science and Culture This centre was set up to celebrate IndoRussian friendship and promote crosscultural events. It conducts various cultural activities such as film shows, art exhibitions, music and dance performances, and competitions. The library has a rich collection of Russian classical literature, translations into Indian languages, newspapers and Russian periodicals. Website www.ruscultchennai.in

New Delhi Lalit Kala Akademi Instituted in 1954 by the Government of India in New Delhi, this is a premier fine art centre, with branches spread across the country. It promotes and develops Indian fine arts through exhibitions, scholarships and fellowships and also assists artisans and students of art, making this Akademi the backbone of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural and national identity. Website www.lalitkala.gov.in

Bengaluru Chowdiah Memorial Hall Set up as a tribute to renowned violinist Tirumakudalu Chowdiah, this is home to many musical and theatrical performances in Bengaluru. The building is shaped like a seven-stringed violin, a fitting tribute to the musician who pioneered the use of this instrument in India. Watch out for the calendar of happening events at this centre. Website www.cmh.co.in

Mumbai Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum Formerly called the Victoria and Albert Museum, this is the oldest museum in Mumbai. Originally established in 1855, it is a treasure house of the decorative and industrial arts. It houses a large number of archaeological finds, maps and historical photographs of Mumbai city, clay models, silver and copper ware and costumes from ancient India. Contact 022-23731234

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Phone: 044 - 2431 5371 Email: artworldchennai@gmail.com Web: www.artworldindia.com

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September 2013

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Picture story by Bipin Khimasia

Board Way 1 India's love affair with gold is timeless. It always was and still is much more than just a precious metal. Indians see the metal as a symbol of purity, prosperity and good fortune. And so, the largest and biggest billboards are related to jewellery!

Not so long ago, the billboards were handpainted pieces of art. However, over the past 15 years, the litho-process of churning out large posters that are glued on to the billboards has relegated these artists to the background. In 1995, over 90% of all the Bollywood billboards in Mumbai were hand painted! People in Kerala pride themselves on the fact that they have the largest, widest, and tallest, billboards in the world. However, they should visit China. I have personally seen a billboard that was

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approximately 72 * 12 feet wide, right across a six-lane highway! I have to admit that these billboards provide a panoramic view of the colourfulness of life in India. Most have something unique about them that counter the negative impact of their size, crowding, and sight-blocking. So hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s my pick of some. 1

01 I thought this represented Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gold fetish perfectly. You are never too old for gold in India! Size of billboard approximately 12 * 9 feet in Kerala. 02 This picture of a bride shows us the contemporary side of jewellery, bridging antique and the new in endless possibilities. Size of billboard approximately 18 * 12 feet in Mangalore. 03 One of those rare hand-painted billboards that, somehow, have a distinct charm that the digital medium can never capture. Size of billboard approximately 20 * 12 feet in Kerala. 04 This particular in-store billboard caught my attention for how the modern Indian woman has redefined the use of gold jewellery, taking it from predominantly dressy occasions to the elegance of everydayness. Size of billboard approximately 6 * 4 feet in Bengaluru. 05 She could be a Hindu or a Christian bride, a North Indian or South Indian. What matters though is how jewellery in India has trancended its boundaries of communities and states, giving rise to the new age of transperancy, where your gold is as good as mine, as long as it is gold! Size of billboard approximately 18 * 12 feet in Kerala.

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Thought Leaders by Ranjini Manian

Chaos Theory 1 Ravi Venkatesan, former Chairman of Microsoft India, and author of the latest bestseller, ‘Conquering Chaos: Win in India, Win Everywhere’, tells us why India, now more than ever, needs to be on the top of every MNC's priority list

Over the course of running a cross-cultural services and India destination company, I have had the chance to interact with thousands of expatriates from over 72 nationalities. While each expat’s India experience has been unique, there is one thing I always hear when they first move into India. “It’s absolutely chaotic”. Of course, our streets, our traffic, our business, our cinema, our politics, our food, our life, all seem to thrive on this one word: Chaos. We find ways to navigate this chaos, find a semblance of order as we go about our day, and hope that expats would be just as patient and forbearing. But, in the recent past, as companies and MNCs are looking at other emerging markets, the overwhelming realisation is that patience is running thin. So when my good friend and well-wisher, Ravi Venkatesan, released his book ‘Conquering Chaos: Win in India, Win Everywhere’ I sat up and listened. Because this perspective of “embracing chaos

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to succeed in India”, is born out of Ravi’s own experience as the successful head of two MNCs between 1996 and 2011, first with Cummins India Limited and then with Microsoft India. If in the former he was linchpin in the company’s transformational journey into a leading provider of power solutions and automotive engines in India, then in the latter, he managed to change the course of Microsoft’s history, making its India operations the second largest for the company. Excerpts from his inspiring and eye-opening thoughts on why India and why now: Why is India suddenly not a preferred destination for multinational companies? Well, India was never an easy place to do business but in recent years, it has become a lot harder. But, even as the current finance minister and the next government work to make India a less hostile place, it is interesting to note that in the same challenging environment there are a handful of multinationals that are thriving amidst the chaos. For companies such as Cummins, JCB, Volvo, Unilever, Samsung, Hyundai, Schneider Electric, Nokia, Ericsson, and Standard Chartered, India is not just an outsourcing destination but a market that contributes importantly to global profits and growth. These companies have realised that despite short-term problems, there are few markets with the same potential and headroom for growth. Even more importantly, they have understood that chaotic India is an archetype for most other emerging markets and that succeeding in India helps them succeed in other markets. Despite its current chaotic state, it cannot be ignored without consequences. If the world has to embrace chaos in India, then does India need to embrace the order in the world? Unquestionably. We need to be less corrupt, more predictable, with better governance and better infrastructure. But the beauty of our situation is that the world really does want India to succeed. Most MNCs really do want to be here. We don’t have to do much to ‘attract investment’; we simply must stop doing things that drive companies and investments away. What are some of the challenges that a leader can face in India? The first challenge is the structure of the market. India has a small affluent segment that is quite well served by

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global products at global prices, but to become relevant and really succeed in India, executives need the patience and perseverance to crack the large, fast-growing middle market. This can be a long and expensive journey. For example, today India is one of McDonald’s fastest growing markets, but it took the company nearly a decade to nail its menu, business model and supply chain. The second leadership challenge is managing chaos. To succeed in India, you need to cope with pervasive corruption where there is a “price list” for even routine approvals and transactions. The bureaucracy can be mindboggling, as routine approvals and decisions get deferred by months, if not years. Building a capable organisation is in my view the third greatest challenge. When a company has 20 percent growth and 15 percent attrition, as many companies do, it essentially has to hire and onboard a third of its entire workforce every year. This is no ordinary HR task. Indian culture places an emphasis on individual achievement right from childhood, which tends to breed workers who are capable, but competitive rather than collaborative. Successful company leaders have little option but to fill in all these gaps personally, by constantly teaching, inspiring and driving performance. Finally, there is the challenge of managing headquarters. How do you run fast when even the smallest decisions need to be vetted outside India, and when most of your team doesn’t report to you but to someone far away? You need to convince people at headquarters, whose entire experience is in the developed world, to look past the chaos of India and bet on her potential. The ones who succeed against these odds are the ones who are able to earn the trust and confidence of the global CEO. It takes a resilient and tenacious leader with unbounded passion for the role, who refuses to be ground down between the bureaucracy of India and the internal bureaucracy of the company. You need to see India not as a stepping stone to the big job but as a big job in itself. 1 A version of these responses was published earlier in the Business Standard and Washington Post.

1 Quick

Bytes

One word to describe the Indian market: Vital and volatile Your leadership mantra: Passion and courage One word you use the most: Aspiration One word you hate: Impossible Your favoutire Indian leader: Gandhiji

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At Global Adjustments

Photo Photo competition, Bengaluru

Smile India, you are on camera! 1 What sets Global Adjustments’ Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition apart from all other photography contests? It is the intent, of spreading peace through culture. Read on! It's that time of the year when expat managers and senior managers, teachers and students, artists and volunteers, spouses and homemakers, singers and dancers, health practitioners and wellness instructors, and sometimes, even visitors and tourists, exchange their diverse identities and become a single entity of photographers for a cause! Yes, it’s time for Global Adjustments’ 16th Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition when the essence of Indian culture – seen in her Faces, Places, Culture & Festivals, and Into India moments – is captured through exquisite photographs creating countless memories. Last year, we had 700 photographs from across the country with 71 participants representing 20 nationalities. This year, we expect no less, because the cause of fostering peace through culture, although subtle in its texture, is one that is only growing exponentially. As expats and Indians interact through this unique initiative, we have seen bridges being

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Win-Win Situation built, communities being supported, legacies being created, lessons being exchanged, and lifelong links formed because a simple moment seared itself in the participants’ hearts and minds. Every year the photo competition works with a theme, culminating in the glittering awards ceremony. If last year we had the glamorous Indian Wedding the as theme, this year we chose the quiet, yet powerful, theme of ‘Peace’. As natural disasters and man-made controversies have increasingly become a part of life in India, the theme of peace is a fitting reminder that India remains a country where inner peace and harmony are found in its everyday moments. We only need to look away from the news flashes on TV and out the window to see the truth of that in every

passing second, and look forward to our participants seeing it too, in their own inimitable way for our fifth and final category. As always, we have some fantastic prizes lined up for the winners, although we do believe that every participant is a winner here, which is why we spend the rest of the year reminding them of that by publishing their photographs in various issues of Culturama. Your photograph always tells our story. So, get your cameras clicking and send us your entries by October 31. The awards ceremony will be held from 10.00 am to 2.00 pm on Sunday, 10th November in Chennai. Watch this space for more. 1

Douglas Vanherpe, Belgian based in Delhi and 2012 winner of the Places category “I have been participating in this competition for the past two years and really enjoy it. It’s done very professionally with great follow-up. Also, the prizes to win are really great, so I would recommend everyone to participate!” Tineke Sysmans, Belgian based in Chennai and participant for the past three years “I love the display of all the photographs and the way the competition is organised. I also find that it is easy to participate and I like to see the different perspectives of other participants. It gives me ideas for more pictures! ”

The 16th Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition If you are en expat and love taking photographs of India, then here's your chance to win some exciting prizes and the opportunity to have your photographs published in Culturama!

Categories Faces

All Indian faces, human or animal, are welcome

Places The big, the small, the known and the unknown

Into India Expat immersion into Indian life

Culture & Festivals All the colour, verve and rhythm of India's true heartbeat *Only 4 photographs per person per category Last date for entries: October 31, 2013 To partner with us for this event, call +91 - 98416 54816

The Mike Eliseou

Award Mike loved India and all things Indian, and so Global Adjustments presents this award, a cash prize and certificate, for a deserving, upcoming Indian photographer. If you know of anyone, please send us your nominations to info@globaladjustments.com with 'Mike Eliseou Award' as the subject line by October 31st.

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Global citizen by Neil Miller

Photo Diana Grieger, Germany

Asking Power 1 What is that one thing you need to know about India when it comes to business? A word that holds several others in the cusp of its existence, giving access to wishes and desires and success — Power DURING a recent training session, I asked a group of Indian IT managers about what they would recommend to teach Westerners about working with India. What is important for expats to know about the heart of India when it comes to business? Among a few other things, the resounding answer came out as Power. I knew this word was packed with subtleties and deeper meanings, so I asked them to expand their thoughts a little more. Then, they gave me a list of things they wanted from a job, in this order: Power Money Status Respect Let’s look at these, backwards. Respect — Respect is essentially how a person’s job is looked at by friends, family members and strangers. Respect varies in the way someone looks at you if you are an AVP or a Director. Internally, it means you can be freed from more mundane tasks and work on those projects that are more important and profitable. Respect is important and is a driving force of motivation, but not the most. Status — Status is the amount of respect I have in relation to the people around me. Do people know right away from looking at my e-mail signature or visiting card that I have an elevated status? How are aunties and uncles around me comparing my title and

level with others? [Don’t be deceived. Aunties and uncles know very well how hierarchies are formed and constructed and ranked.] Status is important because it tells me how well I’m doing relative to everyone else. Status is the amount of respect that is ascribed to me. Very important and very motivating, but not everything. Money — Money is a great motivator for Indians, but it has very little to do with actual buying power. Money is important because it is the scorecard of status. I was listening to a very wealthy Indian being interviewed on the radio. The host asked, “Is money a motivating factor for you anymore since you already have so much wealth?” The man answered very candidly. “Yes, money has always been a motivating factor for me because it shows me how well I am doing comparatively.” Money lets you compare people across industries to know how much respect and status they really have. This is one reason luxury items are so popular in India. It is a way to indirectly show your hand at what your scorecard says. Money is a great motivator as it plainly shows how much status and respect you should have. However, it is not the ultimate goal. Power — Nothing is more important than power. Power is your ability to wield the respect, status, and money that you have. Understand this concept, and you will have gained an important insight into India. 1

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City of Dreams 1 Every city brings with it a dream, an aspiration and an identity that you feel the minute you step on its soil. This Indian city begins by answering only to the name of Calcutta, bringing with it an immutable connection to its past, present and future

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Seeing India by Ian Watkinson CALCUTTA has soul. Its heart pulsates with vibrant life, exuding an almost crackling energy. An invisible quantum force fuels the web of life here, and the sense of interconnectivity is impossible to escape from or define. It affects the visitor by osmosis. A dynamo humming. The human swarm teems endlessly through the polluted streets like a single organism. Every individual facet unravels amid the architectural aristocracy of colonial buildings or the crowded slums and shanties. A sense of ‘Calcutta-ness’ links all — the throng of humanity, the prolific arts, literature, politics and cuisine of this greatest of Bengali cities. Life. Many of India’s brilliant thinkers, scientists, writers and social reformers can claim to be sons or daughters of Calcutta; Tagore, Satyendra Nath Bose, Satjayit Ray, Amartya Sen, Toru Dutt, Swami Vivekananda, Ishwar Chandra Vidyasagar — the list goes on and on. Indeed, the 19th and early 20th centuries saw this period as the ‘Bengali Renaissance’, when these great minds of the city blossomed intellectually. This creative mentality and its reforming ideologies are fused into the psyche here; threaded like an ever-changing mycelium, a deft weaving of past, present and future integrated into the Bengali mindset — pragmatic, direct and eloquently objective. The revolutionary vision of Sir William Jones in the late 18th century was a seed for this wave of intellectual and social reform. Jones was an Englishman, one of the original ‘Indiphiles’, who established the Asiatic Society in the fledgling city. A scientist, linguist, academic and judge for the East India Company, he learnt Sanskrit from the Bengali Brahmins and first realised, with a flash of genius, the connection between Sanskrit and Latin. Thus began the unravelling of the common root between Indian and European languages; the creation of a portal to the vast well of human anthropology and the missing interconnectivity of the common ancestries of man. The Asiatic Society building still resides in the centre of the city. William Jones, Ananda Coomaraswamy, Max Muller, Alexander Cunningham — all the ideas and findings from these great thinkers and researchers concerning Indian history, science, art, language, and philosophy are here in these rooms; not in modern, tawdry lurid paperbacks but original manuscripts, vellum and hand-bound volumes. On another floor sits a section of an inscribed Ashoka pillar from the Buddhist era, which the humble administrator James Prinsep decoded in the early 19th century. It provided the first modern understanding of

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the ancient Brahmi script and revealed the root source of most modern Indian languages. This is the ‘Rosetta stone’ of Asia, an anthropological key unlocking a previously incomprehensible past. Sombre oil paintings heavy with burnt sienna, in broody frames peer down on the wide staircase. Images of this past governor, that former secretary; men in tight white breeches, silk cravats, wigs and thick Hanoverian jackets, who would seem better placed in the cold winter streets of London than in the steamy climate of Bengal’s swampy delta. Surely they would have been more comfortable in a dhoti? Stepping out from this quiet dusty past and into the humid noisy present, the city hits like a double expresso — exciting, electric and compelling. The air resonates with temple mantras, the muezzin’s call to prayer, and peals of church bells in seemingly equal measure. Powerful wooden fishing boats ply the great Hooghly River on their way out to the Bay of Bengal with four or five men to each oar, for the people of Calcutta are great lovers of fish. The complexities of a hundred bazaars unfold in the maze of streets leading back to the city’s heart — districts devoted to the manufacture of every device, tool or material known to man overlap and interface, a veritable hive of activity and ingenuity. Opulence, opportunity and grinding poverty juxtapose the emotions at every step. Interstate wagons awash with fresh produce unload into a warren of vegetable markets, masons mould marble into Murthi with steel, bazaars of sari merchants vend the famously soft Bengali silk. Beggars in brown rags mix with besuited businessmen bargaining, street stalls with fried fish and rice serve have constant custom. Bihari rickshaw pullers ply their trade around Chowringhee, running barefoot on the road with their passengers crammed aloof on the carriage behind. Pulled rickshaws originated from the Chinese people who settled here, and here is the only place in India where this form of transport still exists, despite efforts by the government to ban this practice on humanitarian grounds. Near the ever bustling Howrah bridge lies the morning flower market, a paint box of petals strewn between the grey railway lines and the Armenian Ghats. A dense yellow wall of metred ambassador taxis waits obediently for the lights to change — for all the traffic congestion and seeming chaos in Calcutta, rules are obeyed and there is patience. Colour and monochrome. Order out of chaos. In Calcutta, or Kolkata if you will have it, the pulsating heart is always finding new ways for a new future, and the dynamo never stops humming. 1

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The Green Zone 1 To discover Kerala means to live through many lifetimes, but in this one, at least a week needs to be set aside for a glimmer of why the Gods love this place so much!

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Seeing India by Bindu Menon

HOW does one translate the heart of a space that is as much a part of you as your breath? And how does one do that in seven days? Planning a week-long trip to Kerala with friends meant I had to do just that! It is for no ordinary reason that Kerala has earned the sobriquet, ‘God’s Own Country’. I am not saying this simply because I belong to that soil, but seeing is believing! My friends had been to most Indian cities and abroad, but never to this South Indian splendour where green is the colour of morning, noon and night, where elephants carry the history of this state on their backs, where water meanders through its divergent landscapes and where people move along Kerala’s pristine surprises with the regularity of a heartbeat. Packing Kerala in a week and yet covering all aspects of its beauty was certainly not easy, more so, because there was so much more I discovered too. We started with Kochi, the rich and vibrant city in Kerala, with a private mini-boat ride on the 'Vembanad Kayal’ or the backwaters. It offers splendid views of the Bolghatty Palace (which is now a heritage resort run by the government) on the right, the Taj Malabar (now Vivanta) on our left, and the Chinese fishing nets far ahead, sinking into the horizon by twilight. A stopover at Mattanchery, the ancient Jewish town in Kerala, was a revelation. The clean streets with neatly lined shops selling antique handicrafts, such as whisky flasks thrown into the sea in the 1800s and Kashmiri artisans selling embroidered wonders, were inviting. We met the oldest Jewish woman in Kerala who spoke fluent Hebrew, English and Malayalam. Her eyes glistened and her cherubic smile widened as she spoke of her childhood. A visit to the Paradesi Synagogue, the oldest active synagogue in the Commonwealth nations, reflected the charm of the Jewish era in India. Our final stop was Thekkady, and this is where the richness of Kerala came to the fore. There is just so much to see and do here! For starters, there is the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, one of the finest natural reserves in India, surrounded by dense evergreen forests that were home to wild tuskers, sambar, gaur, bisons, Malabar squirrels and more. We set out early in the morning for a walk from our resort. The roads sloped down till we reached the entrance of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. We hired bicycles and rode inside.

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It was quiet and lonely but for the few wild rabbits that crossed our paths. Soon we reached the Periyar River at the other end of the reserve, where a boat ride awaited us. We were told to maintain silence, so that we did not disturb the animals in their natural habitat. We spotted Cormorants, Darters (or snake birds as they are commonly known), Kingfishers and the Malabar Pied Hornbills. Deer and bisons were seen in herds, playing, staring, wondering what the ripple in their waters was all about. Suddenly, we heard the children squeal, unable to contain their excitement, for they had just spotted three wild elephants — perhaps a family — mother, father and a baby. It was such an endearing sight as they came down to drink water, the baby nudging the mother and playing between her legs. It was the perfect lead to our next stop — The Elephant Junction (www.elephantjunction.com). It was a dream destination for the children. We braved a ride on the huge pachyderms as they took us in batches into the thick, verdant plantations. The children were quite nervous as the elephants, led by their mahouts, plodded slowly and carefully along the narrow, rugged paths. They couldn’t believe their ears when they were told that they could bathe the elephants, too. They perched on them, scrubbed and cleaned and patted them like they were little pets. The elephants seemed to enjoy their company too, as they turned around, and gave them a royal shower from their majestic trunks! Next on our to-do list was the Kadathanadan Kalari Centre for a live demonstration of Kalari, one of the oldest martial art forms of Kerala, and said to be the big daddy of all martial art forms in the world. The rustic ambience and a well-designed gallery took us into a different world of sheer strength, flexibility, swift movements, and controlled coordination of the mind and body. There was also a splendid array of weapons, reflecting the evolution of this art form. After that adrenalin-rush, we needed something to soothe our senses. The last piece for the day was a live performance of Kathakali, the classical form of dance drama from Kerala, followed by a brief lec-dem on the art. We were awed by the elaborate make-up, the rich and colourful costumes, and the ornate jewellery the main characters wore. I did not imagine that the children would patiently sit through an hour of traditional dance form, but then, that is the power of art. For me, though, it just brought home the fact that no matter how many times I visit Kerala or plan trips there, I will never cease to be surprised. Perhaps the Gods only choose to reveal their ‘country’, bit by bit. 1

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Myth & Mythology by Devdutt Pattannaik

Photo RIENKE VAN NIEWLAND, HOLLAND

Whirls of Desire 1 The corporate world could benefit from this Indian mythological story of Menaka and Mohini, nymphs who were sent down to earth with a specific agenda

The word ‘Apsara’ is derived from the root ‘apsa’ which means water. Apsaras were nymphs who slipped away from the grasp of man, like water from a clenched fist. They were sent by the Devas to beguile and seduce Tapasvins, ascetics who sought to churn spiritual fire (tapa). The point of the seduction was to entrap the ascetics in the material world. Menaka was one such Apsara who seduced Kaushika, a king who was determined to become a sage, liberated from all things material. Then there is Mohini, the enchanting female form of Vishnu. In appearance, she is just like an Apsara, beguiling and seductive. She enchants even Shiva, the greatest of Tapasvins. But her agenda is different: she seeks to draw attention to the essential role of material things in spiritual life. She facilitates the transformation of Shiva, the indifferent hermit, to Shankara, the benevolent householder. Menaka and Mohini are the same in appearance. But while Menaka seeks to entrap the sage, Mohini seeks to enlighten the sage. Menaka is indifferent to the spiritual downfall of the Tapasvin, while Mohini balances material growth with spiritual growth. When an organisation is focused on its sales numbers alone, and not the benefit to the customer, they function as Menakas — seductive

nymphs serving the shareholders alone. When sales numbers are a consequence of serving or helping a customer, the organisation functions as a Mohini. Suresh, a high net worth individual, was met by a wealth manager, Chandrahas, from a prestigious bank. Chandrahas was an amiable young man who impressed Suresh with his style and sincerity. He then proceeded to present his bank’s offerings to Suresh — how they would manage his assets and investments in various debt and equity funds. Suresh liked the approach and considered signing on. Then he asked Chandrahas the question, “Are you interested in managing my wealth or achieving your bank’s target?” Chandrahas was tongue-tied. What could he say? Weren’t the two objectives the same? While Suresh liked Chandrahas, the person, he knew the lad was but a cog in the banking wheel, a Menaka sent out to beguile and entice clients to achieve the bank’s goal. Once within the bank’s network, he would be reduced to a customer number and be subjected to the impersonal automated telephone responses. Chandrahas was merely doing his job — signing on the client. He was a tool in a larger game, a game that did not really care for Suresh; it cared only for his wealth. What Suresh wanted was a Mohini. Someone who genuinely took care of his wealth and was not merely interested in meeting the sales targets of a particular bank or institution, someone who did not push his bank’s products in the name of wealth management. The reference point of Menaka’s agenda is the Deva; she works to please her masters. The reference point of Mohini’s agenda is the Tapasvin himself; she cares for his growth. 1 This article originally appeared in the Corporate Dossier, July 2011. Reprinted with permission from www.devdutt.com

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IN T HIS MAGAZINE Reach thousands of expatriates and Indians through Culturama, India’s only cultural magazine for expatriates. E m ail: c ult ur ama @ g l o b a l a d j u s tm e n ts .c o m Webs it e: www.g l o b a l a d j u s tm e n ts .c o m

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5 Join Us Every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaranâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eight Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments.com. If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

Photo Douglas Vanherpe, Belgium

1 The merits of slowing down, in our mind and body, means leaving anger and resentment behind, and being just one step away from embracing love

Holistic living by Eknath Easwaran

Somewhere Slow

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It takes some self-knowledge to understand that when we associate with people, we also participate in their mental states. We are affected not just by what people say and do, but also by what they think. When we are thinking angry thoughts about somebody, we are throwing abstract rocks at him. Sometimes I think a rock does not hurt so much as a harsh thought, because the hurt from a rock can heal much more rapidly. We know how long people can suffer because of resentment and hostility. Living in a place where people are angry and impatient is living in an atmosphere worse than smog. We are all concerned about pollution of the atmosphere we breathe, but internal pollution is equally dangerous. One angry, impatient person can upset a whole group. Conversely, have you ever known anyone whose mind was so calm that agitated people found rest in her presence, angry people became forgiving? People who have the skill of putting others first often play this role. Without preaching to others or advising them, the peace of mind such people radiate has a transforming influence on those around them. We all need support, whether in a family context or in the context of companionship among friends. And I believe we can find it, even in our hectic world. The Buddha might have called this “right companionship.” Everything we do, he reminds us, either adds or subtracts from our own image as human beings. We can seek out the goodness in people. We can seek out what is noble in human character. We can look for goodness and nobility in choosing our friends, in choosing to whom to give our attention and our love. We cannot afford to give unquestioning admiration to a person simply because he or she happens to be prominent in the media. If we confuse media glamour with reality, we are going to find it very difficult to love. Whether we realise it or not, we will always be expecting perfection, which means we will be increasingly disappointed, frustrated, and insecure. My grandmother used to say in her simple language that there are millions of people who suffer because they make demands on life which life cannot fulfil. Even after centuries of civilisation, we still haven’t discovered that there is only one way to be completely happy, and that is to forget ourselves in the service of others. When we forget ourselves in trying to add to the welfare of others, happiness comes to us without our asking. When you look around in any country, you are likely to find a few men and women who have this remarkable gift of

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being able to forget themselves. These are the people who live in heaven. All their attention is on others, so they don’t have attention left over for dwelling on what they want and insisting on their own way. They don’t have time to keep asking, “Am I happy? Is the world tending to my needs?” They are occupied only in giving, only in loving. To live in heaven always, we have to slow down the mind. All negative thoughts are fast. They are going a hundred miles per hour, so of course we can’t turn, we can’t stop, we have got to crash. But positive thoughts are slow. Patience is always in the slow lane. Good will is never in a rush. And love is actually off the highway, for it is not a stream of thoughts at all but a lasting state of mind. If you could see into the minds of people in a hurry, you would see thoughts whirling round and round like the laundry in a dryer, faster and faster. Such people will get angry without any convincing reason — over trifles, over little pinpricks that would be laughable if the consequences weren’t often disastrous — all because the mind is racing out of control. When the mind is going too fast, it naturally begins to affect the body, because body and mind are not separate; they work together. Do you remember the scene in My Fair Lady when Eliza accuses Professor Higgins of being insensitive? He reacts with utter amazement. “Insensitive?” he replies, if I may paraphrase. “Me? I am the soul of sensitiveness. Consideration is my middle name. Kindness and I are never parted.” This is the self-image most of us have: “I couldn’t possibly be selfish or insensitive or unkind.” And, in a sense, it is true. Most of us are not unkind people; the problem is the racing, speeded-up mind. To be sensitive, we have to place the highest priority on slowing down and giving full attention to what we do and to everyone we live and work with. As the mind slows down from sixty thoughts per hour to fifty, to forty, to thirty, to twenty, we begin to see people more and more clearly. Learning to love comes easily if we remember the needs of the whole. We simply have to ask: What will benefit our family most? What will benefit the children most? What will help us to make a contribution to life? If we ask these questions, we shall find we are putting others first naturally — and that our welfare, too, is included in the welfare of the whole. 1 Reprinted with permission from Take Your Time: The Wisdom of Slowing Down by Eknath Easwaran. Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971. www.easwaran.org

September 2013

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From the other side by Marina Marangos

Photo Tobias Schmidt, Germany

A Walk to Remember

1 If John Bunyan had visited India before he wrote his allegorical Pilgrimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Progress, it would have, quite naturally, led to an entirely different book. For pilgrimages in India are always a journey from this world to that

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AS A little girl growing up on the island of Cyprus, I was aware of the importance of a place called the Monastery of Apostolos Andreas. It was on the north-eastern tip of the island where pilgrims and devotees went to offer prayers and thanks and to ask for miracles. This seemed miles away from my home, though it actually took no more than a few hours to reach, and it seemed like a monumental undertaking for those people who went on the pilgrimage. I travelled there once in my life and it seemed to take forever at the time. I remember how impressed I was at seeing the wax offerings of body parts – an arm, a head, a baby representing the “miracles” or the answer to prayers to St Andrew. In retrospect, I can now say it was more like a day’s excursion with relative comforts provided on arrival and the devotional aspect of it over in minutes. This was the place that St Andrew stopped on his way back to the holy lands and where his staff hit upon a spring of healing waters, which restored sight to a blind man. The sanctity and importance of such places become more apparent to me as I grow older, if not wiser, and I can understand the need for pilgrims to undertake these journeys very much as a written obligation to themselves. The pilgrims who set off to Mecca, or those who go to Lourdes, or Jacobean pilgrims to Santiago de Campostello are just a few examples of the better known pilgrimage sites. Nowhere has impressed me more though than Delhi, where I see the pilgrims in their saffron-coloured dhotis – they are sometimes called Kanwarias – carrying a bundle with their meagre possessions on one end of a pole and holy water on the other, traipsing through the capital city on the way back from collecting Ganges water. I stopped and talked to some of them as they were so colourful and different, and found out that temporary shelters and accommodation of the simplest order are sometimes provided for them and that often they might walk thousands of miles of get to where they want to go. So this is nothing like a day’s excursion, not even a weekend – we are talking about weeks and weeks of walking through cities and fields, rivers and forests to reach their pilgrimage site. The hardship and the tribulations they encounter along these journeys help to purify their souls and bring them closer to the divine, and the whole exercise is undoubtedly an act of devotion and self-sacrifice. Their journeys are called yatras and, for some, the yatras happen once or twice in a lifetime, while for the swamis, well some of them at least, the journey never ends and they travel from one holy site to another relying on the goodwill of others around them for their food and sometimes their shelter. When I was in the south of India, near Bengaluru, I saw busloads of pilgrims who were unlike those I encountered in Delhi. Being curious I actually stopped some and asked them where they were going and why. These men, because there were mainly groups of men travelling, were going to Sabarimala as devotees of Lord Ayyapa and they were all dressed in black dhotis. India would not be India if it didn’t capitalise or see the market opportunities in even these most holy of events. So now there are tours organised selling the pilgrimages and supplying the saffron-coloured robes that are required. Perhaps that is not necessarily a bad thing because some

Photo Pia Berglund, Sweden

form of organisation might be beneficial to deal with the problems of overcrowding at some of the bigger venues, like the Kumbh Mela, where pilgrims are often known to lose their lives through stampedes or parents to lose children in the massive crowds. The devotional aspect of these events is not lost on me and I am full of admiration for those who can throw off all material comforts and cares to embark on what must sometimes be a hard and uncomfortable journey. So you can imagine how impressed I was coming across the story of two young men, both Berkeley graduates who decided to give up their life as they knew it and go on a walking pilgrimage from Ahmedabad to Mumbai, a distance of some 1,000 km, living on a dollar a day. In India you can do this, and they did, relying on the kindness of people along their way and writing of their experience that “walking teaches you patience, walking teaches you humility, walking helps you connect with the common man” enabling them ““to live in a space” as they put it “greater than our ego.” In giving up a comfortable life “we hope that our pad-yatra, walking pilgrimage, in India gives us the courage to live like pilgrims for the remainder of our lives”. It’s a lofty and admirable cause and one where the majority of us would struggle with, so next time you come across a pilgrim extend that hand of kindness and humility to them or as they so rightly put it, “do small acts with big love”.

1 Tipping point

At work, if you find an Indian colleague with an unshaven face or a shaved head, both could be signs of a Yatra or pilgrimage. Ask after it respectfully before dubbing the look 'unprofessional'.

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Give to India by Shefali Ganesh

Street-Side Story 1 In name and deed, the Salaam Baalak Trust salutes the spirit of happy children of tomorrow by dedicating itself to Delhi’s street children

5 Salaam Baalak Trust is at DDA Community Centre, Gali Chandiwali, Paharganj, New Delhi – 110055. The trust accepts donors, volunteers and well wishers. Ph: +91-11-23584164, 23589305 www.salaambaalaktrust.com

One of the four photographers who were chosen to record the rebuilding of the World Trade Center in New York, Vicky Roy will thank the Salaam Baalak Trust (SBT) for this rare opportunity. Many like Vicky who ran away from their poverty-stricken homes in the hope of greener pastures in Delhi, have been given a new lease of life by this Trust. In 1998, with a staff of three and 25 children off the roads of Delhi, SBT began on a balcony of the Ground Reserve Police at the New Delhi Railway Station. The Trust was set up with the vision of filling the gaps in the lives of street children, educating them, providing a secure night’s sleep, and more than anything else, to hold a hand when it hurt. SBT has now grown to providing support to over 5,500 children every year, with the help of more than 150 professionals. With 13 contact points or day care centres, one child-line centre and five residential care homes, SBT provides comprehensive child care development emphasising on education, health care and livelihood, along with other social support options.

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September 2013

RajastHan

palaces. forts. relive the past.

They also have a 1098 toll free emergency helpline that enables the Trust to reach out to children in distress. An indigenous idea, the SBT City Walk is now a ‘must do’ for any visitor to the city who wants to have a glimpse into the lives of street children. The walk is led by street children as guides and is conducted in and around the New Delhi Railway Station and shows landmark spaces where street children live. The SBT City Walk showcases the transformation, confidence and communication skills that the guides have gained. They get 500 visitors from 80 different countries every month, for their two-hour walks that are conducted daily. SBT works in Delhi and Gurgaon and has significantly contributed to restoring the families of street children. Two of SBT’s children study engineering, three have completed their Masters in Arts, five have won scholarships to American Universities, sixteen to an Australian-affiliated University and many across schools and colleges in India. Not surprisingly, SBT was chosen for the National Award for Child Welfare in 2011. While Vicky Roy is a success story, Chota Salim starred in the Oscar nominated short film — ‘Little Terrorist’, and Pankaj currently stars in the musical ‘Zangoora’ at the Kingdom of Dreams, New Delhi. Many others are writers, filmmakers and even work in corporate houses. Some of these helped their families back home, many have donated back to the Trust and a few, in recent times, have put together resources to buy their own homes. 1

milesworth holidays india • srilanka • maldives • and beyond

3 Fact File 01 The Salaam Baalak Trust completes 25 years this year. 02 It was the proceeds from Mira Nair’s film on the street children

of Mumbai, titled ‘Salaam Bombay’ that led to SBT's inception. The film is part of the New York Times list of ‘The Best 1,000 Movies Ever Made’. 03 Every year, SBT organises a hugely popular theatre production performed by the children of SBT.

visit: www.milesworth.com Milesworth Travels & Tours Pvt. Ltd., 39 R M Towers, 108 Chamiers Road, Chennai. Tel: +91-44-24320522 / 24359554 Fax: +91-44-24342668 E-mail: holidays@milesworth.com

September 2013

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Festivals of the month Ganesh chathurthi September 9 Also known as Vinayak Chaturthi, this is one of the most important Hindu festivals. It is celebrated as the birthday of Lord Ganesh, the elephant-headed God of prosperity and new beginnings. Ranging from anywhere between one to eleven days of festivity, there are colourful processions of various-sized idols on the streets, which are all then traditionally immersed in water. As a run up to the festival, many Ganesh clay idols, priced from Rs. 25 upwards, will be on display in temporary street stalls. You could buy a colourful paper umbrella along with it and decorate the idol at home, something like a Christmas tree. Offering food, such as placing an apple or a banana in front of the deity, pleases Him and all obstacles are removed from your home. The set up, display and food start on September 9, and three, five, seven or ten days later, you immerse the idol into the ocean or a lake or any other water body, as a reminder that everything in life is temporary and cyclical. 2 Where to buy the idols

Chennai: South Mada Street, Mylapore Mumbai: Matunga Market Delhi: Dilli Haat, Cottage Industries Emporium — Janpath Bengaluru: Jayanagar, Malleshwaram, Rajajinagar, JP Nagar

4 Where to see the display

Chennai: Venkatnarayana Road, T Nagar Mumbai: Shivaji Park Delhi: Dilli Haat, Cottage Industries Emporium — Janpath Bengaluru: Jayanagar, Malleshwaram, Rajajinagar, JP Nagar

4 Where to immerse the idols

Chennai: Marina Beach Mumbai: Chowpatty Beach Delhi: Yamuna River Bengaluru: Lalbagh, Ulsoor Lake, Madivala Lake and Sankey Tank

3 Where to eat traditional sweets

Photo Carlo Sem, Italian

For modaks (kozhakattai in South India) or peda (milk sweet) head to: Chennai: Grand Sweets, Gangotree, Suriya Sweets and Shree Mithai Mumbai: Brijwasi, Chandu Halwai Wala, D. Damodar, Haiko Market — Powai Delhi: Haldiram, Bikanerwala Bengaluru: Anand Bhavan, Arya Bhava, KC Das, Kanthi Sweets, Krishna Sweets

3 What to chant

"Ganapathy Bapa Moriya!" Learn the song at http://www. savetubevideo.com/?v=VU5TDdyMsZw

Onam September 16 Onam is the traditional harvest festival of Kerala and marks the first month of the Malayalam calendar. Legend goes that the King of the land, Mahabali, was so popular that he was vanquished by the ruler of heaven, Lord Indra, and banished from his land. He was granted one boon: he could visit his subjects once a year and that day is celebrated as Onam! Onam is celebrated for four days, with the highlight being the grand feast called 'Onam Sadya'. If you can, visit Kerala this month to get a taste of the magic; else, step into any restaurant in your city that serves Kerala food for a taste of the famous Sadya. Photo Joycelyn Harris, USA

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September 2013

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Photo Quadrantine Nathalie, Switzerland

Spotlight by Shefali Ganesh

The Ladakh festival 1 We turn the spotlight on the Ladakh Festival that will be held from September 20 to 26. This week long cultural extravaganza in the highest part of India promises to be a breathtaking spectacle showcasing the best of the region’s cultural diversity AN ANNUAL tradition of more than two decades, the Ladakh Festival takes place in the capital city of Leh and its neighbouring villages. Organised by the Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Department, this unique festival brings together the cultural heritage of Ladakh through dance, music and colourful artistic displays. With processions of villagers dancing and singing across Ladakh, contests in polo and archery, spectacular cultural performances, and a local handicrafts exhibition, the Ladakh Festival is when the mountains come alive in a burst of colour and vivacity.

The highlight of the festival is the dance performed by monks wearing masks and traditional headgear, accompanied by the slow beats of cymbals and trumpets. The dance is in mime form narrating the various aspects of religion and the eternal story of triumph of good over evil. The musicians who use these instruments have more than 300 tunes that are dedicated to Gods, Lamas and Kings. Unlike many of the other festivals in the region, the Ladakh Festival is not a religious one and is a cultural attraction for locals and international tourists. 1

1 Read ‘A Phrasebook for learning Ladakhi’ by Rebecca Norman is an invaluable guide for every traveller to Ladakh 3 Do Attend the ‘Ladakh Festival Cup’ polo match that has teams from across the region participate in a frenzied game or go white water rafting in the icy cold waters of the Indus. 2 Shop Get your own traditional Thangka paintings and other handicrafts from exclusive exhibitions set up for the festival. Or visit www.thangkahouse.com/ to order yours online. 4 Locate The Druk White Lotus School that is sustained entirely on solar energy. The architecture and design of this school is something to look. Contribute to the education of Ladakhi children through books and stationery. www.dwls.org/helping.html 5 Connect Watch glimpses of a previous Ladakh Festival here http://tinyurl.com/n5fqlvf and get a taste of what to expect.

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September 2013

Global Wellness Series That cosmetic surgery has been in vogue from the 6th century in India can be seen from the Sushruta Samhita, a Sanskrit text on surgery by historical physician Sushruta. The book by the father of plastic surgery, describes over 120 surgical instruments and 300 surgical procedures. While his techniques are practiced even today, a lot has changed in the field with state-of-the-art hospitals and modern infrastructure.

Cosmetic Surgery Dr. V.B Narayana Murthy, HOD, Institute of Plastic, Reconstructive & Cosmetic Surgery at Global Hospitals, talks about cosmetic surgery

What it involves Cosmetic surgery primarily deals with providing physiological and anatomical solutions for patients who are either dissatisfied with their appearance and seek to improve it, or medically need intervention to avoid other complications. Some of the common cosmetic procedures include hair transplants, nose reshaping and breast aesthetics. An expert team headed by a globally trained cosmetic surgeon will precisely discuss the various aspects of cosmetic surgery and to execute skillfully the finer intricacies required of this exacting field of plastic surgery. Common reasons A full range of cosmetic surgery from head to foot can be relooked to define what needs to be done. There are actually no limits to what can be achieved with cosmetic surgery. However, there are some common reasons why people undergo or seek cosmetic surgery, such as hormonal changes in young boys and women, breathing difficulties, liposuction and body reshaping, which can be done with expected and predictable results.

September 2013

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India writes

iREAD

Home and away For more on the immigrant experience, check out books by these Indian-origin authors Jhumpa Lahiri

Her award-winning collection of short stories, ‘The Interpreter of Maladies’, and her globally recognised, ‘The Namesake’ have placed the immigrant

reviewed by Babette Verbeek What is it about? Indian army Captain Ranjit Singh sees his life spiralling out of control after leading a mission with a disastrous outcome on the Siachen glacier. He flees with his wife and daughter to the United States, where he tries to build a new a new life in Boston as illegal immigrants. Finding a job as a caretaker of the deserted mansions of the rich and famous during the winter season on Martha’s Vineyard seems a lucky break. But then he stumbles on an international intelligence scandal involving the US senator for whom he’s been working.

Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni

A prolific and award-winning writer of short stories, novels and books for children, Divakaruni is a poet in her soul and writer in her heart. Her books are lyrical testimonies of the Bengali Diaspora in the United States, and the inherent sense of drama of everyday life. Her latest book is ‘Oleandar Girl’.

Who is it by?

Samina Ali

A.X. Ahmad moved from Kolkata to the United States at the age of seventeen. Working for years as an architect, he swapped careers and decided to become a writer after publishing several stories on immigrant life in literary magazines. Ahmad lives in Washington D.C., where he teaches writing and works on completing the trilogy, of which The Caretaker is the first book.

It’s rare to find stories of Indian-American Muslims, and Ali’s book, ‘Madras on Rainy Days’ is a fitting narrative on identities. When the protagonist reluctantly agrees to an arranged marriage, she is thrown into a world of stifling traditions, life behind the veil and the ever-present reality of Hindu-Muslim tensions.

Why should I read it? Read it because of its explosive mix of ingredients; a disgraced, traumatised Sikh Indian army Captain illegally staying in the United States, combined with the shady foreign diplomacy moves of a US senator and a passionate love affair that cannot be. The thriller is divided in three parts. The writer’s very detailed style in the first two parts unnecessary slows the story down; luckily, the third part widely makes up for this. At the end, we see protagonist Ranjit Singh vanishing in the chaotic traffic of Chandigarh, leaving us curious as to where the next book will take him.

experience firmly in the literary arena. Lahiri’s strength lies in the details that become overpoweringly important when away from the familiar. Her latest book, to be released this year, is ‘The Lowland’.

Indira Ganesan

Her debut novel, ‘The Journey’, is about the return to what was once familiar. Except, in this book, it is to the fictional island of Pi in the Bay of Bengal. Ganesan’s book, using strong imagery, brings out the disconnect with memory and reality, leading the characters on a journey of self-discovery.

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Realty bytes The House Whisperer by Anita Krishnaswamy For all those niggling questions you might have on housing and realty in India, write to anita@globaladjustments.com

Can we keep pets in rented homes in India? What are some unwritten

the breed and type of your pet, especially if you are bringing one from your

rules for this? Thomas Olivier, Mumbai

home country. Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tropical weather means that it is humid through most

A pet in rented homes is a topic that is extremely subjective. The landlord

of the year, and many foreign breeds of pets find it extremely tough to adapt

usually reserves the right to decide whether or not to allow pets inside his

to the Indian weather, making it a hassle for both the pet and the owner.

property. Most often, landlords who own independent houses allow their

When this is the case and the pet has to be kept indoors in cool areas all day

tenants to have pets. In apartments, owing to lack of space and potential

long, it is only natural for the animal to get restless and even cause some

disturbance to other people living in the same community, pets are

damage structurally. This is something that the landlord may oppose. Even in

usually discouraged. One might even find signboards outside apartments

independent houses, landlords prefer to have the pets kept outdoors and not

that declare that no pets are allowed or the apartment association might

enter the built-in area. As for dog walking and collection of poop, do follow

have a no-pet policy.

strict decorum as per your own home country, even if others donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to be

However, having said that, pets such as birds, hamsters or even cats are probably more welcome in apartments as they are considered quiet and non-

doing it. Communication is vital, be sure to inform the landlord about the kind

intrusive. The unwritten rule that one might have to keep in mind is that the

of pet that will be relocating with you and its needs so that no problem arises

landlord is the deciding authority, so be sure to check with him or her before

in the future. In our experience, we have often seen that it is worth the effort,

deciding to bring your pet.

as for many of our clients their pets not only provide companionship, but also

Another factor that might have a bearing on the landlordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decision is

serve as an important link to their lives back home.

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4 Chennai Property OMR Brand new apartment for rent

Thiruvanmayur Luxury apartment available

• 3 bedooms + Study • High floor, excellent views • 24/7 power back-up & Security • Clubhouse, pool, gym • See photos at: http://tinyurl.com/kx4kr7q

• 3 bedrooms, 2,400 sq.ft. • Fully furnished • Close to the beach • Suitable for expats

Teynampet Brand new flat in central Chennai

MRC Nagar Brand new deluxe house

• 3 bedrooms and study • Contemporary design • 100% power back-up • Fully equipped kitchen

• 4 bedrooms, 4,400 sq.ft. • Centrally located • Modular kitchen • Suitable for a company lease

OMR Gated community in Perungudi

Kottivakkam Charming house for rent

• 4 bedrooms, 3,800 sq.ft. • Contemporary row house • Shared pool, gym and party hall • 100% generator back-up

• 3 bedrooms and study, 2,200 sq.ft. • Aesthetically designed • Proximity to schools and shops • Close to the beach • Lovely rooftop terrace

Boat Club Posh luxury apartment • 3 bedrooms, 4,000 sq.ft. • Located in the heart of the city • Aesthetically designed by an architect • Beautiful terrace garden • Spacious balcony • Plenty of natural light • Quiet neighbourhood

Neelankarai Gated community in ECR • 3 bedrooms • 3,400 sq.ft. • Swimming pool, garden, gym • 100% power back-up

Client's Speak Overall, working with Global Adjustments was a really good experience. Local knowledge and overview were very detailed. Particularly impressed with the advice received to ensure our choices best suited our family position, made more relevant because our knowledge of the location was previously limited. Paul Kivlehan, Chennai

For more properties, call Global Adjustments at 91 44 24617902/91 72999 12605 (Chennai), or e-mail: realty@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

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4 Bengaluru Property North Bengaluru Spacious apartment for rent

South Bengaluru Large apartment for rent

• 4 bedrooms • Fully furnished • Balconies in all bedrooms • Swimming pool

• 3 bedrooms • Fully furnished • Colourfully painted bedrooms • Gated community

Central Bengaluru Apartment for rent

South Bengaluru House for rent

• 5 bedrooms • Centrally located • Tastefully designed • Club amenities

• Stand alone house • Fully furnished • Surrounded with greenery • Club amenities

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 80 41267152 /9986960315 or email: blr@globaladjustments.com

4 Delhi Property Gurgaon — Palm Springs Spacious villa for rent

Gurgaon – Tatvam Villas Spacious villa for Rent

• 5 bedrooms • Back garden, splash pool • 100% security and power back-up • Clubhouse, gym, bowling alley and a movie theatre • Children’s play area.

• 5 bedrooms • Back garden, splash pool. • 100% security and power back-up • Clubhouse, gym • Children’s play area

Delhi – Shanti Niketan Property for rent

Delhi – Pushpanjali Spacious house for rent

• Spacious apartment • Four bedrooms and basement • Fully air-conditioned • 100% power back-up

• 5 bedrooms • Large living room • 2 acres, landscaped gardens • Swimming pool, kitchen garden

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 124 435 4236/ 981551070 or email: del@globaladjustments.com

4 Mumbai Property Kemps Corner Exclusive duplex apartment for rent

Bandra West Fully furnished apartment for rent

• 4 bedrooms, 4,000 sq.ft. • Marble flooring, modular kitchen • Swimming pool, garden • Two car parking spaces, servant’s quarters

• 4 bedrooms, 3,000 sq.ft. • Modular kitchen, marble flooring • Car parking space • Gym and servant’s quarters

Khar West Fully furnished apartment for rent

Bandra West Spacious apartment for rent

• 4 bedrooms, 3,000 sq.ft. • Modular kitchen • Car parking space and servant’s quarters

• 2 bedrooms, 1,150 sq.ft. • Marble flooring, modular kitchen • Car parking space and servant’s quarters

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 22 66104191/ 9769001515 or email: mum@globaladjustments.

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September 2013

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Courtallam The Spa of South India 1 The cold gushing waters of Courtallam falls of Tamil Nadu are known far and wide for their medicinal properties, but there is a lot more to this legendary town. Tamil nadu Tourism Development Corporation (TTDC) projects the best time to visit Kutralam between June and September

Located in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu, Courtallam is synonymous with water, literally because of the many waterfalls that abound here. This part of the state is also where many rivers originate like the Tamarabarani and the Chittar. The South West monsoon sets the climate at Courtallam with abundant water and a cool breeze, making it a popular holiday spot. Part of the Western Ghats, this hilly town is home to nine waterfalls, out of which only three are accessible to the public. The main fall called Peraruvi or Big falls is about 60 m high and the public is allowed to bathe here. The other two falls called the ‘Old Falls’ and ‘Five Falls’ are also within public limits. But it isn’t just about the waterfalls or health resorts. Courtallam is also home to some famous temples, including the Kutralanathar temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple’s main hall called ‘Chitrasabha’ is one of the five halls at this temple, where the Lord is said to have danced his cosmic dance. The others sabha’s are the Rathna Sabha at Thiruvalangadu, the Kanaka Sabha at Chidambaram, and the Velli Sabha at Madurai and the Thamira Sabha at Tirunelveli. 1

3 What to do at Kutralam Visit Tirunelveli that is just 40 km from Courtallam for its famous wheat halwa Take treks to the smaller falls like the ‘Honey Falls’ in the Western Ghats Visit the Snake Park and Aquarium near the main falls. Take a boat ride at the Boat House near the Five Falls and Old Courtallam Falls. 4 How to get there By Road – Courtallam is 640 km far away from Chennai, 115 km from Trivandrum, 137 km from Kanyakumari. By Air – The nearest airport is Tuticorin By Rail – The nearest railway station is Tenkasi

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Registered with the Registrar of Newspapers for India RNI No.TNENG/2010/32752. Postal Reg.No.TN/CC(S)Dn./396/2013-15. Licensed to post without prepayment under WPP No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-268/2013-15. Date of Publication:1st of every month.