Culturama February 2013

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India's Only Cultural Magazine for Global Citizens

VOLUME 3, iSSUE 12 February 2013

Brought to you by Global Adjustments

The Memory Maker

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Path-breaking wedding videos by Vishal Punjabi

Horn OK, Please Wedding Bands in India

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The Vow factor

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A look at Indian weddings in all their pomp and glory

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D e a r

R e a d e r s

WHEN people ask, “So, do you still have arranged marriages in India?” I always answer that we ‘arrange’ for our sons and daughters to fall in love. Families are careful to match up their sons and daughters with other families who might be very different, but share similar values and aspirations. Sometimes, in the course of searching for a bride or groom, all the son or daughter gets to see is a picture of their potential mate. One picture that gives them a glimpse into the rest of their lives. On the basis of that one picture, they embark into a life-changing journey.

In Culturama, we celebrate and interpret pictures of India that may serve as a symbol of a cosmically arranged marriage between you, our expatriate guests, and India, your bride. We hope that while you are here, you find India to be a good partner with similar values and aspirations. Of course, there will be bumps along the way, especially in the early days, but we know that the journey you are on is also a life-changing one. So we hope that whether you are new here or have made India your home for many years, or are, in fact, an Indian who hasn’t spent time thinking of the nuances of our rich culture, these pictures and stories serve as a mark of the beginning of that journey for you in India, and eventually, you learn to love it. So take a walk through our Feature story that brings the different customs and rituals of marriage ceremonies across the country with an invaluable checklist for our expat guests; spend some quality time with our A to Z of India column that is all about India by, for and of love; stop by our Being India column that shows you how ‘young love’ can be transformational; meet India’s newest talent, Vishal Punjabi, as he talks about revolutionising wedding videos; and do make time for stories of our expat friends in our Look Who’s in Town column for their own life-changing journeys with India.

As the important seven steps taken during an Indian wedding for good luck goes, the groom says to the bride, “Sakaa-Sapthapadhabhava”, which means, “By these seven steps you have taken with me, you have become my best friend”. So too, I hope, India will remain your best friend for the years to come. And Culturama’s role? Imagine it as that cosy little café round the corner, where you can hang out with India!

Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief E-mail: globalindian@globaladjustments.com

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Contents On the Cover

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26 The Vow Factor A look at India’s rich tapestry of weddings

40 Calendars

See what’s going in Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai

52 At Global Adjustments

India’s People

‘Taste of India’ programme for University of IOWA students

Vishal Punjabi, creator of Bollywoodstyle wedding videos, talks to Culturama

54 Global Citizen

8 The Memory Maker

A cross-cultural perspective on the Thank You phenomenon in India

12 Pandit Ravi Shankar

A ten-point journey of modern India’s musical ambassador to the West

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58 Give to India 22 In Your Kitchen

Simple tastes, deep roots – India’s Kayastha community from Bihar

60 Myth & Mythology Stories from India’s mythology reinterpreted for practical living

Journeys into India

48 Horn OK, Please

A look at the unique phenomenon of wedding bands in India

46 Being Mind Full

A conversation with thought leader, R Chandrasekaran, the Group Chief Executive, Technology & Operations at Cognizant

50 The Transformers

A movement that transforms the lives of under-privileged children through education

Featuring worthy charitable initiatives in India

62 Child Friendly

Seeing the country through young eyes, along with an Indian traditional game

64 iSeries

Indian book, movie and music reviews

Relocations and Property

66 Tell Us Your Story

Practical advice from Global Adjustments’ relocation expert

67, 68 Space and the City Property listings across the metros

56 The Inner Chamber India’s Culture

Lessons from the Bhagavad Gita on going beyond the physical

Snippets of Indian culture

Regulars

18 A-Z of India

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in India

14 Short Message Service

A look at India’s famous love stories – from mythology, films, books and real life

32 Look Who’s in Town

Errata We regret to have missed out on the following photo credits in the January issue of Culturama: Page 56 — Douglas Vanherpe, Belgium; Page 61 —Tineke Sysmans, Belgium Page 62 — Alan Dougans, Australia; Page 68 — Sophie Fontant, France 4

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Letters to the Editor Dear Editor, “Hats off to your editorial tip on genuine Christmas gifts. Surprisingly, gifting forgiveness, apology or undivided attention boomerangs return gifts of peace, joy and release on the giver. Thoroughly enjoyed the December issue!”

— Rashmi J, India Cover photo: Charlotte Oke, UK

Dressed as a Kashmiri bride during Global Adjustments' Annual Expatriate Photo Competition, 2012

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian

Consultant Editor praveena shivram

Business Head Sheeba radhamohan

creative head J K Behera Editorial Coordinator Shefali Ganesh Associate Designer Prem Kumar Advertising

Bengaluru mukundan T Delhi-NCR preeti bindra, ruchika srivastava

Mumbai & Pune Farah bakshay

Chennai sheeba

E-Culturama Shezina Kallarakkal, Samyuktha Sunil

photography tobias schmidt

Advisory Committee N Ram, Camilla Skaremyr Krook, G Venket Ram, Marina Marangos, Suzanne Mcneill, Babette verbeek

Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R. A. Puram, Chennai 600028, India Telefax. +91-44-24617902 E-mail: culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 7/2, Edward Road, Off Cunningham Road, Bangalore - 560 052. Tel.+91-80-41267152 E-mail: culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-Gurgaon Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon - 122 002. Haryana. Tel.+91-124-435 4236.

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Editor: Ranjini Manian DISCLAIMER: Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher's or the magazine's.

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Dear Editor, “We found the January issue of Culturama very interesting. I found the information about Indian politics and the system of government particularly useful.”

— Anne Warner, UK Dear Editor, “I really liked the ‘Postcard from India’ in the January issue of Culturama and wish I had thought of it before.”

— Rosella Stephen, Editor New Indian Express, India Dear Editor, “I loved Karan Singh’s quote captioned on page 9 in the January issue of Culturama. That is our driving force. If we have nobility and goodness, it will go on to our children. They learn by example. Keep up the good work!”

— Arshleen Aneja, India Dear Editor, “What a superlative issue of Culturama. The January issue was an eye opener for me. Congratulations.”

— Helen Muller, Germany Dear Editor, “Just a big 'Thank You' for the perfect Chakkara Pongal recipe in the January issue of Culturama. The same cooked to the T!" — Asma Menon, India Dear Editor, “The January edition of Culturama was great!

What I enjoyed the most was the article, ‘First Things First'. It was very interesting to discover all these new things about India. The other article I liked was ‘Politically Correct’, because it described how the system works in India, and it clarified the complicated political world." — Tineke Sysmans, Belgium

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Present Tens

10 questions for An Indian influencer

p Rr aa nvj een ini a M asn hiiavn ram

The Memory Maker 8

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IF YOU ever get the chance to attend a wedding that is to be filmed by Vishal Punjabi of The Wedding Filmer, then I would suggest you simply grab the opportunity, especially if you belong to the ‘before The Wedding Filmer’ era. Because it would be your chance, even if in the periphery, to be a part of a journey that captures the essence of human emotions – the joy, the pain, the celebration, the beauty, the love, the warmth, the spirit – in true Bollywood style. However, it would probably underestimate the worth of his work to compare it to India’s sprawling and often garish film industry, because the soul of Vishal’s films is a mirror of your own. It has to be, considering it began with the filming of his own wedding.

Originally an award-winning graphic designer in London, Vishal was “discovered” by Bollywood Superstar, Shah Rukh Khan. Born and brought up in Ghana, Africa, Vishal moved to India in 2000 to design Khan’s web portal, and eventually joined Khan’s Red Chillies Production as the graphic designer and visual effects supervisor. Soon, he began directing commercials for the production house as well, and now works independently. He talks to Culturama on what makes The Wedding Filmer tick.

From a background in visual effects to directing commercials and documentaries, to The Wedding Filmer…What about this venture excites you the most?

What excites me the most is when I finish the film and the family watches it. It’s better than any premier night you could have. With commercials, when you show the end product to the client, there will be 25 meetings for the 10 shots that are in the ad film. Clients will always complain and dissect your film to pieces. But, with The Wedding Filmer, they watch the movie and they cry, laugh, hug you and become friends for life. It’s a movie for a very, very small audience, for the people who have starred and acted in it. I can shoot it however I want, do whatever I like, be as creative as I can, and the family will watch it and enjoy it. That, for me, is the most gratifying moment.

Do you set out with a definite script, once the family gets in touch with you? Or does the film evolve at the editing table?

Well, nothing is rehearsed or planned. I always tell everybody that they end up making the movie. I just shoot it the best I can. People usually don’t know we are shooting. I don’t have lights on people’s faces; I use long lenses, the kinds used for cricket matches, so everyone can just be themselves. I do talk to the family; try to get them to open up, especially if it is a love marriage where the families might not be that accepting of the bride or groom. So you work at it. Or, you wait and watch for the right moment, when all sorts of stories will come out.

How do you draw the line between remaining unobtrusive and yet not compromising on what you want for your film?

It totally depends on how I connect to the bride and groom. When you put in so much money in a memory, then you need to do it properly. I require their participation; I need them to have fun, to enjoy the process of getting married. If it means a lot to them, it will mean a lot to me. The films we shoot are for life, are something your great grandchildren can watch to know how you felt, what the breeze was like, what the light was like, what the voice was like, what kind of music there was… it’s about watching your wedding video without hitting the fast forward button. For me, it’s always about the people and their story, which is why I don’t do every wedding that comes my way.

The films we shoot are for life, something your greatgrandchildren can watch to know how you felt, what the breeze was like, what the light was like, what your voice was like, what kind of music there was… it’s about watching your wedding video without hitting the fast forward button

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The Wedding Filmer team

Considering this is India and you deal with weddings, how do you handle the responsibility of what that means in India?

It’s precisely because weddings are so important in India that we do this. The bigger the wedding, the stranger it becomes for the family, where everything is a blur. Only when they sit down and watch the film do they get to see what was happening. And because weddings are so big in India is why I am successful.

Of course, you have to be selective about what you shoot and how you shoot. That’s the craft of a filmmaker, and that’s the gift The Wedding Filmer gives you. I honestly do believe that God is watching over us, as there’s never been a wedding that I have shot where something magical hasn’t happened in front of the camera. At a wedding, emotions are so high, there is so much drama, and I do believe a good love story always has a great plot.

What are your favourite parts to capture on film?

Just before the bride goes to the mandap, when she is getting ready in her room. I have shot 15 to 16 brides till now and each moment has been different. I remember one of the brides had a panic attack, where she couldn’t breathe, and I put that in the film. Just the fact that they are sharing such deep moments with you, is enough to connect with them. I know how she is feeling at that moment and no matter what anyone says, it is going to change her life.

Most of the weddings you have shot till now are focussed on the North. Is it because weddings in the North are much more opulent?

I am actually dying to work on a South Indian wedding! I am not sure why it has not happened, though. No one has approached us yet, though one of the weddings I shot, the girl was from Chennai, so maybe that counts?

One of your recent videos was on the silver jubilee of a couple. What other parts of Indian culture/life cycle rituals would you want to dedicate with this kind of art-form?

A funeral, I would love to shoot one, however morbid that sounds. Birth, marriage and death – they are life-altering moments in people’s lives, affecting generations to come. With death, a film to always remember the person by is one way to get out of the grief.

How much do you internalise the stories that you shoot?

I keep the stories with me, long after I finish the movie.

You learn something new every day from people, and the people I work with are not actors, they are real people with real emotions. You have to be sensitive to them and know where to draw the line. And it helps that I am a die-hard romantic. I love the romance and the happily-ever-afters!

What are the three most important things a young filmmaker needs to keep in mind to succeed?

I don’t have three, but I have one – be honest with your work. Present your story as originally as you can. When I started shooting weddings, everyone laughed, because there is this stigma attached to wedding videographers, and it is considered staid and boring. So I started out on my own, with my own camera, and when people saw the work, they saw how beautiful it could be. Now I have a bigger team, with seven people. So be honest, don’t worry about the money. A starving artiste is always a good artiste.

Finally, is there any one wedding on your future wish list and one wedding from the past you would have liked to film?

I would want to shoot my own wedding again, and future wish list? A Saudi princess wedding, with the whole Arabian Nights feel, would be quite special.

Behind the Filmer Advertisements Airtel, Aircel, ITC, ICICI Bank, Videocon, Hyundai, Pepsi, 7up, Jet Airways, Wipro, to name a few.

Movies Line Producer and Visual Effects Supervisor for Main Hoon Na, Paheli and Asoka. Visual effects producer for Don and Honeymoon Travels.

Documentaries Directed a documentary with musicians, Akon & VishalShekhar

Watch trailers of The Wedding Filmer’s work at https://vimeo.com/channels/theweddingfilmer or visit www.theweddingfilmer.co.in 10

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Past Tens

An Indian's footsteps worth following

S u s a n Ph i l i p

Pandit Ravi Shankar The best-known contemporary Indian musician in the world and modern India’s musical ambassador to the West, Ravi Shankar’s eminence won him the title of Pandit. He passed away on December 11, 2012

How It All Began: Born in Varanasi on April 7, 1920, Robindro Shaunkar Chowdhury, 7th son of Shyam and Hemangini Chowdhury, later changed his name to Ravi Shankar.

Making a Dance and Song of It: Hemangani brought up the children after Shyam left them to go abroad and married again there. Ravi Shankar joined his choreographer brother, Uday Shankar’s dance troupe at the age of 10, becoming a full-fledged member three years later.

He toured Europe and US. He learnt French and was exposed to Western music and culture.

Plucking Strings: After meeting the legendary court musician Allauddin Khan, Ravi Shankar left the dance troupe to live with the musician and learn to play the sitar and other Indian instruments. He made his stage debut playing the sitar, together with Ali Akbar Khan on the sarod, in December 1939.

Musical Confluence: One of Pandit Ravi Shankar’s most important contributions to the world of music was his success in combining Hindustani classical music with elements of Carnatic music. He also wove elements of Western classical music into his work and combined electronic instruments with traditional ones.

East meets West: Ravi Shankar made a great impact on Western music and musicians. He numbered Yehudi Menuhin, the violin maestro, and George Harrison of the Beatles, among his very special friends. They impacted him, and he, them.

Hitting the High Notes: It’s impossible to comprehensively list Pandit Ravi Shankar’s outstanding achievements. So, a selective, subjective list: Montery

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Pop Festival, Woodstock Festival, Concert for Bangladesh (charity), Tana Mana, (album), Ghanshyam (music theatre), music for films (Charly, Gandhi, Apu Trilogy).

Famous Family: His first wife was Annapurna Devi, daughter of Allaudin Khan. She was herself a talented musician, and they had a son, Shubendra Shankar. The marriage wasn’t happy, and Shubendra died in 1992. Ravi Shankar meanwhile had a daughter, Norah Jones, with Sue Jones, and later married Sukanya Shankar, with whom he had another daughter, Anoushka. Both are extremely talented, award-winning musicians.

Plaudits for the Pandit: A very select list: Member, UN International Rostrum of composers; Music Council UNESCO Award; Magsaysay Award; Bharat Ratna; three Grammys; Honorary member, American Academy of Arts and letters; Member of the Rajya Sabha.

Editor’s Note: Ravi Shankar performed for the last time in Chennai in 2008 when Global Adjustments joined hands with the Banyan to host the event. We had to save a front row seat for his dog Suki, a Maltipoo (cross between a Maltese and a poodle) who sat still and watched him throughout the two-and-a-half hour performance. When the show was over, unmindful of the thunderous applause, Sukhi ran up to Panditji and licked him in adoration! Sukii, a ‘therapy’ dog, played an important role in keeping the maestro stress-free. .

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Short Message Service

easily digestible cultural snippets

S u z a nne M cne i l l

Oriya g Showcasin aspects of re in Indian cultu tible easily diges snippets

Channapatna Toys

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ORIYA is the official language of the north-eastern state of Orissa, and the second official language of Jharkhand, which borders Orissa to the north. Officially called ‘Odisha’ since 2011, Oriya is descended from Magadhi Prakrit (believed to be the language spoken by the Buddha), one of the three written languages of ancient India that followed the decline of Sanskrit, and which was spoken in the region 1,500 years ago. The letters of the Oriyan alphabet have a distinct round and curving shape. According to scholars, this derived from the Oriyan tradition of using palm leaves as writing materials — a sharp stylus was used to scratch the text onto the surface of the leaves, as a curving script was less likely to pierce the leaf than the straight lines of other Indian languages. As per the Indian census of 2001, there are 33,017,446 speakers of Oriya. You can become one of them by learning to ask ‘Kimithi atchanthi?’ — ‘How are you?’, and responding ‘Mu bhala achi dhanyabada’ — ‘I’m fine, thank you.’

Puneri Pagadi Photo Vrksa Arts & Crafts www.vrksa.in

CHANNAPATNA (cha-na-pat-naa), 60 km from Bengaluru, is known as the ‘toy town of Karnataka’, producing thousands of brightly coloured, lacquered wooden toys each year. It is said that Tipu Sultan brought master craftsmen from Persia to train the toy makers, and today over 6,000 people are engaged in making and selling the toys in the villages around Channapatna.

Traditionally, the toys were made from ivory wood (called ‘Aale mara’), and sometimes rosewood or sandalwood. The wood is seasoned and cut, then carved into the desired shape. Mounted on a spinning lathe, the colour, a nontoxic vegetable dye, is applied with precise skill to the toy, and it is polished to a high lacquered finish. Nowadays, the craftsmen and women of Channapatna have adapted their skills to produce a wide range of products including decorative household items such as coaster sets, spice boxes and napkin rings, as well as the traditional toys for children.

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A ‘PAGADI’ is a type of Indian headdress or turban for men, and ‘Puneri pagadi’ is the name given to a style of turban specific to the city of Pune in India’s western state of Maharashtra. Turbans are usually one long length of fabric that is wound around the head – the type of fabric can denote the wearer’s status, the style in which it is wound conveys the wearer’s region and religion, and the colour is often chosen to suit the occasion. It was introduced in the city about 200 years ago by Mahadev Govind Ranade, a distinguished scholar and reformer, and a founding member of the Indian National Congress and is considered a symbol of pride and honour in the region. Nowadays, it is worn mostly on state occasions and for weddings. The Puneri pagadi has recently been granted Geographical Indication (GI) status, in order to preserve its identity and authenticity.

rain Tree

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Short Message Service

The Fish Cure EACH year thousands of people suffering from asthma flock to the South Indian city of Hyderabad to partake of the Bathini Goud family’s famous fish therapy. The family was given a secret formula of miraculous herbs by a Hindu holy man over 150 years ago, knowledge of which is still zealously guarded. The time of the treatment is fixed each year by astrologers and normally coincides with the arrival of monsoon rains. Patients must swallow a live fish, a murrel or a sardine, which holds in its mouth a ball of mysterious yellow herbal paste mixed with water. The wriggling fish negotiates the phlegm in the throat, clearing the way for the herbal paste. Three additional doses of medicine must be taken over a 45-day period, during which time the patient follows a diet restricted to 25 different foods, and the cycle is repeated over three years. The Goud family members, who dispense the treatment free of charge, guarantee a 100% cure if the procedure is followed to the letter.

Indian Fencing

Photo Courtesy: www.thejakartaglobe.com, AFP Photo/Noah Seelam)

Stick Around FOR the majority of Indians, religion permeates every aspect of their life, and so you will see images of the gods affixed to rickshaws, market stalls, PCs and kitchen cabinets, to name but a few. These stickers are sold on street corners, from stalls, shops and bazaars, and there’s a thriving Internet business, too. They show the rich iconography of the Hindu religion, which symbolises universal concepts and ideas, such as the Om symbol, representative of the totality of the universe, and the swastika, a symbol of the sun’s rays and life-giving properties. For the devout Hindu, the artistic merit of the picture is secondary to its spiritual content, but look closely at these traditional images — they are detailed, intricate and often very beautiful.

Photo courtesy L&T Constructions

INDIA is a relative newcomer to the sport of fencing – the Fencing Association of India was founded in 1974, and India made its international debut at junior and senior levels in 2001. This year India hosted the second South Asian Fencing Championship in Hyderabad, which also included teams from Nepal, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Afghanistan. India’s men and women won gold medals in the individual and team events that feature the three different weapons used in fencing, epée, foil and sabre, thereby improving on their position in the first SAFC held in Chennai in 2010. Despite facing challenges sourcing equipment, training facilities and coaching staff, the association is making a sustained effort to promote the sport at the national level. Fencing’s international body, the FIE, currently ranks Bhavani Devi at 139 in the world in the women’s sabre category, and Vinoth Kumar Velautham at 190 in the men’s foil.

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Photo Francois Daniele, France

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A to Z of India

26 Things you might like to know about India

S u s a n Ph i l i p

Love, Actually It is love, they say, that makes the world go round. India has contributed to the spinning of the world with a treasure trove of love, in the form of mythology, films, literature, folklore and real life too Ardhanareeshwarar Ardha-naa-reesh-wa-rar is a manifestation of Lord Shiva.

Once, Parvathi, Shiva’s wife, mistakenly assumed that another woman had captured her Lord’s heart, and retreated beyond his reach in grief. Shiva, after clearing the misunderstanding, held her so tightly to him that they merged into a single entity – half man, half woman.

Devdas A Bengali novella by Sarat Chandra Chatopadhyay, Devdas is about love blighted by social customs prevailing in the India of the early 1900s, and the ambivalence of the central character.

The name Devdas, in fact, has become synonymous with a man unsuccessful in love.

Bobby This a classic Bollywood film that is a must-see for all fans of romance. Directed by the legendary Raj Kapoor, this 1973 simple love story of two teenagers who come from different economic backgrounds holds an appeal that is evergreen.

Ek Duje Ke Liye The name translates as ‘For each other’, and is a Hindi remake of a Telugu film. With versatile actor Kamal Haasan, Rati Agnihotri and Madhavi as the main characters, this 1981 release was a box office success despite its tragic ending.

Fire This sensitively depicts the development of a homosexual relationship between two married women. First screened at the 1996 Toronto Film Festival, ran to packed houses when it was released in India in 1998, and is considered a path-breaker.

Golden Threshold This is an anthology of poems by Sarojini Naidu, known as the ‘koyal’ or nightingale of India, contains some exquisite poetry on the theme of love. Read ‘The Poet’s Love Song’, ‘Ecstasy’ and ‘An Indian Love Song’ for a taste of her lyricism.

Cheeni Kum This film explores the unexpected blossoming of love between a man in his sixties and a woman thirty years his junior. Sterling performances by the lead actors – Bollywood Superstar Amitabh Bachchan and Tabu, raise it above the ordinary.

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Heer and Ranjha They were legendary lovers who were either star-crossed or lived happily ever after, depending on the storyteller. It is set in Punjab, and a mausoleum in the village of Jhang, marking their final resting place, is a favourite with modernday couples.

Indian Love Stories This is an anthology of contemporary short stories edited by well-known psychoanalyst, Sudhir Kakar, featuring 15 of India’s most talented writers, including Indira Goswami, Manjula Padmanabhan, Kamala Das and Ismat Chughtai.

Jodhaa Akbar A film that tells the heartwarming tale of the love between the famous Moghul Emperor Akbar and a Rajput princess, Jodhaa.

The movie won the Audience Award for the Best Foreign Film at the Sao Paulo International Film Festival.

Kannagi She is the central character of Illango Adigalar’s immortal Tamil epic, ‘Silapathikaram’, who is devoted to her husband, Kovalan.

Wrongly accused of theft, Kovalan is beheaded without trial, but Kannagi proves his innocence posthumously and her righteous wrath burns down Madurai, capital of the king who had him killed.

Laila-Majnun The oriental counterpart of the Romeo–Juliet story, this is really Arabian in origin, but has an Indian connection. The lovers are believed to have taken refuge in Bijnore, Rajasthan, and died there. The village has two graves believed to be those of the ill-starred pair.

Mera Naam Joker Undoubtedly, one of the greats of Indian cinema. Raj Kapoor’s unforgettable performance as the circus clown who sees it as his role in life to make people laugh despite his own heartbreak must touch a chord with every human being.

Nala-Damayanti This oft-told story from Hindu mythology, tells of how princess Damayanti and King Nala fell in love, how a swan was their emissary, how they married, how Nala gambled away his kingdom and left Damayanti, and how they were reunited after twelve years.

Om Shanti Om This romantic comedy is an entertainer of a movie, with lots of drama, action and suspense, and a supernatural element thrown in to give the mix a fizz. The 2007 release has the much acclaimed Shah Rukh Khan and the svelte Deepika Padukone in the lead.

Prithviraj Chauhan He is a 12th century king of Delhi, and his love story with Samyukta is now legendary. Complete with handsome prince, beautiful princess, irate father, daring elopement and happilyever-after, it proves that real life is often more romantic than fiction.

Qayamat Se Qayamat Tak This film was a huge box office success when it was released in 1988. The storyline – the love between scions of two rival families which ends in tragedy – was not novel, but the young lead pair, Aamir Khan and Juhi Chawla, injected fresh life into the industry while achieving stardom for themselves.

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A to Z of India

26 Things you might like to know about India

Radha–Krishna This divine couple symbolise eternal love. The bright-eyed, mischievous cowherd mesmerised the gopikas, or cowgirls, with his flute, especially Radha. She was devoted to him, immersed in him, and he too was enchanted by her. They were two halves of a whole, beyond ceremonies and rituals like marriage in the union of their hearts. Theirs is India’s ultimate love story.

Shakuntala According to Hindu mythology, Shakuntala was brought up in a forest by a sage and met King Dushyanta while he was hunting.

Of their love was born Bharat, the legendary ruler who first united the greater part of India, and it is from him that this country gets its other name — Bharat.

Vikram Seth’s ‘A Suitable Boy’ Among the longest English novels to be published as a single volume, this book explores the political, social and communal milieu of post-Independence India, but its core is a love story. The pivot of the tale is the effort of Mrs Roopa Mehra to arrange the marriage of her daughter Lata with ‘a suitable boy’.

White Mughals A novel by William Dalrymple, this is set in 18th century Hyderabad, and tells the true story of the love between James Kirkpatrick, British resident at the Nizam’s court, and Khairun-nissa, a high-born Muslim girl. The book is evocative of the political, social and sexual mores of the time.

Xtra marital These love stories, particularly involving celebrities, are favourites of the (wo)man in the street. The twists and turns, especially in the lives of film personalities, have spiced up the drab lives of millions of their fans.

Taj Mahal Arguably the world’s greatest monument to love, the Taj Mahal needs little introduction. Built by a grieving husband, the Emperor Shah Jahan, as a tomb for his wife, the exquisite Mumtaz Mahal, this vision in white is one of the wonders of the world, and a must-visit.

Yathrakarude Sraddhaku Translating as ‘for the attention of passengers’, this is a love story that starts on a train. The movie explores the mores that surround two people of opposite sexes sharing a home and the complications and consequences that arise from that situation in Kerala’s conservative society.

Unniarcha She is the heroine of many a ballad from North Kerala.

According to legend, this 16th century beauty was fearless. Her cousin Chandu fell in love with her, but Unniarcha spurned his love, sparking a chain of betrayal and revenge, culminating in Chandu’s death at the hands of Unniarcha’s son, Aromalunni.

Zubeidaa This film is about the life and loves of a Muslim girl, who, after her marriage to a Muslim man breaks up, falls in love with, and becomes the second wife of a Hindu prince. Superb acting by Karishma Kapoor in the title role, ably supported by the rest of the cast, makes this a very special movie.

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culturama | February 2013

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In your Kitchen

understanding an indian community through their food

Harini Sankaranarayan

Bihar

Simple Simmers The Kayastha community of Bihar brings a unique versatility to India’s platter with the minimal use of spice and the ability to coax flavours out of the humble onion and garlic

ANJU Varma recalls her childhood in Bihar. “We were a large family, and my father had a government job. So we lived in the government quarters. What I remember most are the meal times. Simple homely food, nutritious and delicious, the loud laughter at the table and moments of family bonding,” she says.

She may now be a housewife in her late 60s living in a Chennai apartment, a far cry from her native Bihar, but meal times are still resonant with the traditional food providing the much-needed link between her past and present.

“The sad thing is that one cannot find good sattu here in Chennai,” says Anju, referring to the special gram flour found in Bihar, a base for many traditional dishes. “I still get it from Bihar whenever any relative visits Chennai," she confides. Sattu is used to make Litti, the traditional roasted bread eaten with Chokha, a potato curry. Sattu also makes a delicious, cooling drink for the summer months blended with chillies, salt and lime.

The Kayastha community, to which Anju belongs, is considered one of the privileged communities in Bihar. They moved to Bihar in the 4th century during the Gupta period to help with the administrative work and since have always found a place in the public sphere of the state. Landlocked as Bihar is by Uttar Pradesh on one side and Bengal on the other, the cuisine of the Kayasthas is influenced by both states.

The abundant use of mustard oil could remind one of the flavours of Bengal. However, Anju is quick to add that while the Bengalis cook with the mustard seed

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and flavour with the oil, the Biharis sauté their food in mustard oil. A lot of leafy vegetables find their way into the cuisine. Seasoned with ajwain, which smells like Greek oregano, one of the key flavouring ingredients is chilli. In Bihar, the dried red chilli is burnt and smoked and this is used to add the special flavour to a lot of the food.

Biharis love their staple rice and it is had with dal and seasonal stir-fried vegetables. They even have a roti stuffed with rice. Since they make use of fresh local ingredients, the cuisine changes every few months, depending on the season. Rice, rotis, dal, achaar (pickles) and chutneys remain constant.

When meat is used, it is usually mutton (goat meat).

Milk products in the form of yoghurt, buttermilk and ghee are a must with every meal.

Like their Bengali counterparts, the Biharis love sweets, but unlike the Bengali sweets they are not milk based nor soaked in syrup. The delicious Mothichur ladoos occupy a pride of place in the dessert menu, as does the crispy melt-in-the-mouth puff pastry called kaja. The Malpua has always been a dessert of contention between the Bengalis and Biharis. Anju confidently lays claim to this crepe–like dessert. The real king of their meal is a humble gherkin–like vegetable called parwal. It can be found in all celebratory meals, fried, sautéed, stuffed and even cooked as a dessert.

To get a taste of Bihari Kayastha food, try their famous Ghugni, a simple snack rich in protein that can be both satisfying and filling.

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Photo Tobias Schmidt www.artandshoot.de

Did you know?

According to the Puranas, one of India’s ancient scriptures, Kayasthas are descendants of Chitragupta Maharaj, the deity responsible for recording the deeds of humanity, upholding the rule of law and judging whether human beings go to heaven or hell after death.

Nalanda and Vikramshila were centres of learning established in the 5th and 8th centuries, respectively, in Bihar, and are counted amongst the oldest and truly international universities, where people all over the world came to study.

Kayasthas are considered both Brahmins and Kshatriyas because they were not only traditional scribes but warriors too.

*It’s Not Going to Blow Up! The pressure cooker is the Indian version of a regular steamer. The lid of the cooker is lined with a rubber gasket on the inside and has a “weight” attached to the top. This way, when the pressure builds, the weight moves up an inch to release the steam and sounds like a whistle, and settles back down to allow the pressure to build again. Indians measure cooking time with the number of times the whistle sounds, and will usually lower the flame after the first whistle, though this completely depends on what is being cooked.

Remember to wait for the cooker to cool down before opening it and make sure water levels inside are higher than that of the ingredients.

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Ghugni with Chiwda For the Ghugni 250 gm black chickpeas 3 large onions finely sliced Garlic paste made from a medium-sized bulb 1 inch of ginger made into a paste 1/2 tsp turmeric powder Chilli powder according to level of spice required Salt to taste Oil to saute Finely chopped onions, tomato and cilantro for the garnish

Method

• Soak chickpeas overnight in water. .• Fry sliced onions in oil till golden brown.

• Add soaked and drained chickpeas and continue to saute for a couple of minutes.

• Add ginger and garlic paste and cook till raw smell disappears.

• Add chilli powder, turmeric powder and salt.

• Add enough water to just cover the chickpeas and pressure cook.* • Wait for one whistle and then continue to cook on low heat for about 10 minutes.

• Open the cooker and reduce the liquid over heat till there is just about enough gravy to coat the chickpeas.

For the Chiwda

200 gm of flattened rice (locally known as poha or aval) Oil to deep fry Salt and pepper to taste Method Heat oil in a wok and deep fry the flattened rice till crisp.

Drain on a kitchen paper towel and season while still hot.

To Serve

Add a generous ladle of the hot Ghugni over the fried chiwda.

Serve immediately garnished with finely chopped onions, tomatoes and cilantro.

culturama | February 2013

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Feature S u z a nne M c N e i l

The Vow

photo Bipin Khimasia, Canada

Sink into India’s wedding fervour as we give you a feel of what to expect in weddings across the country

factor

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AN INVITATION to an Indian wedding provides an extraordinary insight into the country’s culture, festivities and spiritual practices. Every religion and community in India has its own traditions and style of celebration, yet there are elements within an Indian wedding that are constant across the country. In this feature, we journey throughout the country, highlighting the wedding customs specific to each region and their significance, whilst also noting the common elements.

And we provide a practical guide to expatriates who may be invited to a friend's or colleague’s wedding.

Weddings of the North The fast pace of modern life has seen the length of wedding celebrations across India shorten, although they can stretch across several days as traditional pre-wedding rituals are celebrated.

The mehendi ceremony is a symbolic event in the preparations of many North Indian brides. The groom’s sisters arrive with henna to decorate the hands and feet of the bride and the belief is that the deeper the final colour, the more she will be loved by her husband. In Punjabi weddings, the bride’s maternal uncle plays an important role, dispensing largesse including the chura, red bangles that are dipped in milk and water before the bride wears them to signify that she will blend into her new family as milk blends into water. The bride wears a kada (iron bangle) after the churas are put on as a protection against evil, and friends tie kaliras (tinkling daggers) to it representing their best wishes.

The barat is one of the most iconic rituals of North Indian weddings. The groom arrives at the bride’s house on a white horse amidst song and dance with his face hidden behind a veil of flowers, which is believed to protect him from the evil eye.

The groom’s party, or barat, are greeted at the threshold and each male relative is given cash by the corresponding relative of the bride after they are garlanded. It is customary for young girls from the bride's side to play a prank on the groom. During the ceremony, the groom’s shoes are hidden and he is asked to pay a ransom for their return. The groom comes prepared for

this and offers cash or traditional trinkets, called kalicharis – gold for the bride’s sisters and silver for her cousins.

Muslim weddings are characterised by the rituals during the engagement ceremony. The bride and groom exchange rings and undertake an oath of mutual consent, the Ijab-o-Qubul.

The bride enjoys a mehendi ceremony and her family welcomes the arrival of the groom’s barat with sherbet (a drink) and merrymaking. On the wedding day, gifts are exchanged and the marriage contract is registered in the Nikahnama, followed by prayers and dinner, where men and women eat separately.

After dinner, the newlyweds sit together for the first time.

Weddings of the West The Gujarati wedding day begins with the ritual cleansing during the peethi ceremony: a paste of gram flour, almond, turmeric, sandal and rose water is applied over the bride, who then takes a ceremonial bath. The wedding itself begins when a wooden stick wrapped in red, green and yellow threads is inserted into the mandava muhurat, a clay pot filled with soil.

This is part of the ceremony to invoke the blessings of Lord Ganesha. The bride dresses in a red and white sari, and on her wrists she wears chuda bangles; both are gifts from her maternal uncles. The groom arrives on horseback complete with a sword hanging from his waistband to protect his future wife from evil. For the wedding, the bride changes into a chunari, a red sari presented to her by her in-laws. After her father gives her away, the chunari is tied to the groom’s silk shawl and with the sacred fire of Lord Agni as witness, the marriage vows are taken.

Parsi weddings take place immediately after sunset or early in the morning, considered to be the most auspicious times.

The ornate wedding sari of a Parsi bride is white, generally considered unlucky by other communities in India. The couple sit facing each other on a stage, with a piece of cloth held between them. The priest places the right hand of the bride onto the right hand of the groom, and passes a piece of cloth around both chairs, enclosing the couple in a symbolic circle of unity. A length of twine is tied around their hands seven

Notice the elegantly covered heads of the North Indian bride and groom

The Muslim art of henna has permeated the Indian wedding culture photo ENRIC DONATE SANCHEZ, spain

photo Michelle Klakulak, USA culturama | February 2013

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photo Isaa Sayegh Sandrine, France

Garlands represent the circle of life at this South Indian wedding

This horse is waiting for the groom!

photo Marie Julie Oliver,France

times, passed around their chairs seven times, and then seven more times around the knot of cloth. Frankincense is thrown onto the fire, and the cloth separating the couple is dropped.

They shower each other with rice and are offered blessings.

As with most Indian weddings, a lavish reception follows the ceremony.

Jain pre-wedding traditions also feature ritual washing ceremonies and the groom’s barati arrival, and dates and times are fixed by a priest. For the ceremony, the couple sit on decorated seats, the bride to the right of the groom, which is the place for strangers and acquaintances. Only after the saptpadi, when the marital vows have been exchanged, does the bride move to the left side of her new husband, as it is the side of the heart. Jains refer to a woman as vamangi or one who is on the left side.

Weddings of the East Bengali pre-wedding ceremonies start at night, during an auspicious rising sign marked out by a priest, with wedding feasts in the families’ respective houses. The next morning, the bride and groom take a ritual bath with water from the Ganges, or another holy river believed to be guarding their ancestors.

Traditionally, the mother of the bride is not allowed to witness the wedding for fear she may cast an evil eye, and it is common practice for her to turn up late and avoid the company of the bride and groom. The nuptial vows are taken around a holy fire in the presence of a priest chanting Vedic mantras. The groom is given a set of gold kurta buttons and a ring, and the bride enters covering her eyes with betel leaves, which she removes to look at the groom. The ritual culminates in the groom smearing the parting of the bride’s hair with vermillion, called sindoor, a sign of marriage across India.

On the third day, the bride leaves for the husband’s house, a post-wedding ceremony that is a feature of all Indian weddings and is called vidaai. Here, the Bengali mother-in-law puts a

drop of honey on the bride’s tongue in the hope that the words spoken by her will always be sweet, and gives her a loha, a gold-plated iron bangle as a token of the marriage, to be worn on the left arm for ever.

Weddings of the South Tamil weddings in South India follow Vedic rituals too, with prayers to Vishwaksena, an attendant to Lord Vishnu, for blessings. The ceremonies begin at dawn with a ritual enactment of asceticism, particularly amongst Tamil Brahmins.

The groom is at the end of his life as a brahmachari or bachelor and he acts out a scene where he sets out on foot and stops at a crossroad, pretending that he wishes to renounce the world.

His future father-in-law must then persuade him to come back and accept the bride. He returns, sits on a flower-bedecked jhoola or swing (called oonjal in Tamil), and each member of the bride’s family is introduced to him.

The groom’s sister helps the bride put on her ceremonial red nine-yards-long sari. The bride is ritually cleansed of her past, officially presented to the groom and, seated on her father’s lap, is ‘given away’. The groom ties a thali or mangalsutra, a yellow thread with a symbolic pendant, round her neck.

Traditionally, this is considered the most revered token of love and respect offered to the bride during the marriage ceremony in South India. In fact, the token of marriage among Tamil Christians is also a thali, not a ring.

Together, the groom and bride take seven steps, signifying a lifelong friendship, and walk as one around the sacred fire.

Placing the bride’s foot on the ammi (a grinding stone), the groom’s sister puts silver rings on the bride’s toes with a prayer that their marriage is as strong as the stone. As with all Hindu weddings, the celebrations draw to a close with the emotional vidaai ceremony (the Tamil equivalent is called grahapravesam or entering a new home), as the bride formally departs from her family home.

Editor's Note: Indian wedding nuances differ from family to family or community to community, and alterations to rituals presented in this article are likely. We have only provided a generic overview.

Turn overleaf for our practical Indian wedding checklist 28

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The Indian Wedding Checklist When to arrive

Weddings start later in the North than in the South, and both can differ from the time printed on the invitation. To ensure you don’t miss anything, ask specifically when you should arrive. Generally: • In North India, you can arrive 30 to 60 minutes after the invitation start time.

• In South India, arrive no later than 20 minutes after the start time – look for the word muhurtam on the invitation, as the climax happens at this auspicious time.

What to wear

• Dress up, and dress elegantly.

• Pre-wedding events can be quite Western in style, and Western evening dresses may be suitable.

• For the wedding ceremony itself, Indian clothes are more appropriate. Ask a classy Indian friend to help you pick out a sari, or have something made locally by an Indian dress designer.

• Jewellery is a must!

• For men, a Western suit or an Indian sherwani (a long embroidered jacket) is spot on.

What to expect

• A lot of noise, movement and seeming confusion.

• An ancient, ritualistic ceremony that appears less structured and more fluid than the Western equivalent.

• Many guests will chat throughout the ceremony and appear to take no notice of the ritual.

• Photography is allowed and welcomed.

• There will be queues to present gifts and have your photograph taken with the bride and groom.

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What to do

• Take a gift.

• Observe the ceremony and take photos!

• Dance if the audience is participating or else clap along to join in the fun.

• Enjoy the meal.

• Mix with the other guests.

• Show interest in who are the bride’s and groom’s parents and family.

• If stuck, make small talk by commenting on clothes and jewellery.

What not to do

• Don’t be unapproachable and don’t ignore the guests around you.

• Don’t be stressed about water or food hygiene – cooked food is safe.

• Don’t stick to your own group – make small talk and show interest in the events.

• Don’t react to noisy drums – keep a smile on always!

• Don’t hesitate to go with the flow.

• Don’t hesitate to take the goinghome goody bag at the exit, even if you leave early.

• Don’t feel you have to stay till the bitter end, but give your best wishes to the couple on leaving.

• Don’t make fun of anything or anyone – enjoy yourself and laugh with, not at, your fellow guests.

Gift Ideas

• Home decoration pieces, utility items such as dinner sets and kitchen gadgets, elegant photo frames, designer items depending on budgets.

• A gift that is typical of your country, but refrain from giving tourist souvenirs.

• Alcohol, meat, leather and anything black is strictly taboo.

• It is acceptable to give money or a gift cheque. In South India add an odd number to the amount for good luck, for example Rs. 1,001/- or Rs. 5,001/-.

• Do not wrap gifts in black or white (unlucky colours, associated with mourning) – green, yellow and red are auspicious colours.

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Look who's in Town ben g a l u r u

Leisure Lines Ronja makes the most of the outdoors on a sunny day

German Ronja Quazi who runs the Eagle Ridge Resort in Bengaluru, tells us what the outdoors in the city is like “I THINK the main attractions for me in Bengaluru were the misty rainy days that reminded me so much of the November rains of my childhood in Germany,” begins Ronja Quazi, a Chennai city veteran of over two decades, and now a Bengaluru city veteran as well, having lived in the city for a decade. “I came to Chennai in 1980, got married and enjoyed in due course of time three daughters. Also, I founded Surya Travels in Chennai, where we proudly celebrated our 20th anniversary, nearly two years ago. During an office excursion with my staff in 2003, I came to Bengaluru. We fell in love with the climate, the people and the natural surroundings. So much so that my company took over the Eagle Ridge Resort from Orange County in 2006 and we are happily running it ever since,” she says with her trademark smile. She now spends time between Bengaluru and Chennai, but says that when it comes to outdoor recreational activities, nothing beats Bengaluru. Here’s why!

At Home in Bengaluru Cycling and walking have always been my favourite pastimes.

My hometown is Nuremberg, and it lends itself to a lot of walking and trekking. I like the fact that Bengaluru allows me to do all that I used to do in Germany. The climate is so good here that I am able to be outdoors without limits. There are quieter parts of the city that allow one to cycle or walk in peace. Swimming

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is also an option, with the many convenient pools. There are several resorts, like ours, that have cycles on rent and pools, which can be very convenient.

Tips to Take Be careful of the sun’s rays; always use a hat and sunscreen lotion. Good shoes will help while walking or cycling. Avoid public roads and always carry tools to rectify a punctured tyre.

Wild Encounters Once, I stepped out of a car and nearly on to a snake!

Besides the shock, my reaction was quick, so was the snake’s, which must have been equally frightened as it slithered away as quickly as it could. Hence, whenever you go somewhere outside the city roads, beware of snakes and always make some noise before you step out of your car on to grassy or bushy sites.

When in Germany I would suggest a cycling tour, which is much easier in Europe since you can follow special cycling treks nearly everywhere.

Go to some of the water parks with uncountable attractions.

And venture out into the woods, an ever-rewarding experience.

Nuremberg has many hilly areas that are great for treks.

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Look who's in Town delhi

The Thing is… it’s Delhi!

Scotsman David Dooley’s list of things to do in the capital city is certainly a must do!

DAVID Dooley’s first experience of Delhi, after having originally lived in Gurgaon for close to a year, was quite unlike the regular s tories we hear.

“Within about two hours of arriving in Delhi I found myself locked in a carpet shop under some pressure to buy some of the vendor’s wares. Since then, I have become a bit more assertive when faced with these situations…I did manage to get out of the shop – with my finances in tact!” he says with obvious delight. Despite the ‘shock’ of this unexpected ambush, and because, “Delhi is an incredible city with everyday you see something new or interesting”, this financial services professional's must-do list is just as interesting.

Capital Three 1) Food: There are so many contrasting food experiences to be had in Delhi. At lunchtime you could be standing at the side of the road, eating samosa with a cup of chai, and at dinner you could be eating a slap-up meal in a Five Star hotel. Of course, there is always the element of danger associated with street food. I have found that the stalls in Dilli Haat are okay for the more risk averse.

2) Hauz Khas Village: HKV, based around a medieval water tank and surrounded by Muslim tombs, is now a trendy South Delhi hang-out. I have singled it out because it’s my favourite place in Delhi. Not only is it a great place to walk around and explore but there are also many great bars and restaurants with many hidden gems to uncover.

3) Tours: There are many different types of tours you can do in Delhi; it’s not just for tourists as many locals also take part.

Photography Tours – I recently went on a photography course, which concluded with a photo tour at the Qutab Minar complex. It was a great learning experience. Bike Tours – I have not been on one myself but am told it’s a great way of seeing Delhi from another angle. Street Child Tour – I went on a real eye-opening tour in the New Delhi Station area which gives you a look into the world of street children in Delhi. The tour is run by the Salam Baalak Trust and your guide is a former street child. It’s really heartbreaking to hear some of the stories but it’s also inspiring to see that many of them make it through such adversity.

When in Scotland Go to a Burns Night (January 25) so you can address the Haggis (the national dish of Scotland; vegetarian option available too) and take part in a traditional dance, ceileidh. Visit the Edinburgh Festival, usually in August and get out into the hills.

Keep in mind the weather, though. It will rain/snow/sleet/blow a gale and it will be cold. Questions in the local dialect, like Fit like min?, which means, How are you, will be common, so keep your Scottish phrase book handy before travelling.

David on the sands of Rajasthan 34

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Look who's in Town M u mb a i

Fun Times Dutchwoman Nadia Rashid tells us how to live it up in the city of dreams, Mumbai

THAT Mumbai is a city of ‘flats’ was what Nadia Rashid found when she landed in the city less than two years ago. “Coming from Amsterdam, I am not used to so many flats everywhere. So the first time around, I was still looking for the ‘normal’ houses with the front and back lawn,” she says with a gentle smile.

“The expats who have been around for a longer time would always tell me that the first six months are the toughest and

it was just a ‘simple’ culture shock I was experiencing. Today, I have adapted to the city and found a way to deal with the hectic environment, and every day I learn something new about the people and the city,” she adds. Join Nadia in discovering entertainment options in the city that never sleeps.

Happening Holland Even though there are more festivals celebrated in India, Holland offers a good mixture of entertainment for everyone, from child-friendly theme parks to historic sightseeing options, beautiful and unique flower gardens, canal cruises, and, obviously, the most famous museums where you can see fine masterpieces of Van Gogh and Rembrandt. When it comes to nightlife in Holland, it’s very vibrant and caters to everyone.

Entertainment for me in Holland means that there is always something to cater to your mood and there is not much planning required.

Mumbai Must-Dos Since there are so many festivals here, it’s a must for an expat to enjoy the colourful celebrations of the religious and cultural events, like Diwali, Ganesh Chathurthi, etc.

And, of course, visit the city’s restaurants and lounges.

Timely Tips 1.

Plan well ahead, so you don’t have to deal with surprises or the traffic (you can’t always avoid the latter).

2. During the monsoon season, some places are closed because of the heavy rains.

3. Don’t rely on the distance shown on your map. When traffic is bad, it can take you a long time to get anywhere.

When in Holland Check weather conditions and dress accordingly. Dutch people are very nice and extremely helpful, so in case you are lost, always ask a local.

Amsterdam has a great clubbing area that is always vibrant with excellent bars, lounges and restaurants. Don’t miss the canal cruise, the Van Gogh Museum, the Rijks Museum and the Stedelijk Museum. And go to the city centre for some great shopping destinations.

Nadia and her daughter on a day out 36

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Look who's in Town chenn a i

Mike, Libby and their children at Cottingly, their historic home PHOTO Tobias Schmidt www.artandshoot.de

The Diplomat’s Weekend Mike Nithavrianakis, British Deputy High Commissioner, Chennai, tells us the best weekend options Chennai has on offer FOR Mike Nithavrianakis and his family, Chennai has been home for the last three years. “I have loved this city since the start. It is a privilege to be a British diplomat in Chennai and I try to squeeze the pips out of every day. The modesty of the people is what makes this place special,” he says, in that proper British way of expressing things succinctly. But there is also that proper British humour of finding laughter in the mundane, the quirky, and the obvious. “I went through a period where I received a text message, virtually every hour, saying, “Do Not Ignore Hair Loss”. As someone who is folically challenged, this was a well-targeted message. I have a feeling some of my friends added my mobile numbers to a messaging service. I am now looking for a cheap hair transplant…,” he says with mock seriousness, and then bursts out laughing. Here’s Mike’s pick of the city’s weekend destinations.

Ideal Weekend Weekends in the UK meant a chance to spend down time with my family, uninterrupted by work. Also, an opportunity to catch up on household tasks, personal admin, etc. My weekends are very different in Chennai. They are usually an opportunity for exercise – gym, swimming and yoga – and lots of socialising.

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Chennai Calling The three things I would recommend to expatriates as must-do in Chennai would be a meal at Southern Spice at the Taj Coromandel; a performance at Kalakshetra or something hosted by the Prakriti Foundation; and a late night movie at Satyam Cinemas or a Chennai Super Kings cricket match at the Chepauk Stadium.

Expat Tips If you follow a hobby or have a pastime that you want to develop in Chennai, don’t assume it isn’t catered for here; it is. It just needs a bit of effort to find like-minded people. Do accept invitations to the homes of local people; those evenings are usually the best fun and the food will be superb. Don’t try to impose Western driving practices on Indian drivers!

When in the UK Plan ahead, particularly if you are visiting London or another major city, as a lot of the popular shows, cinema theatres and restaurants get booked up. After the phenomenal success of the Olympics and Paralympics, a visit to London should be high on your list. But do try to fit in a trip to Scotland, the Lake District or a city visit to Bath. .

Tulsi art

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events CALENDAR MUMBAI

Kala Ghoda Arts Festival February 4 to 12

Kala Ghoda Area, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Mumbai Kala Ghoda Arts Festival is Mumbai’s festival extravaganza that offers a kaleidoscope of music, dance, theatre, literature, handicrafts and more. Take part in the many workshops, heritage walks, enjoy Indian folk performances and shop till you drop at the many roadside stalls.

The festival is called Kala Ghoda, literally meaning “black horse” after a statue of King Edward VIII astride a black horse. Visit www.kalaghodaassociation. com for more details.

Vocal Recital

February 8|1830h Alliance Francaise Auditorium, #.40, Theosophy Hall, V Thackersey Marg, Churchgate, Mumbai Viola Martins was born in India and first studied singing in Mumbai. She continued her studies in London at the Trinity College of Music, where she won the Elizabeth Schumann Lieder Prize and the French Song Prize. Viola sings regularly with Amici del Arte, a charitable organisation of which she is a founding member. Call 02222035993 for more details.

Nasscom India Leadership Forum February 13 to 15

Grand Hyatt, Off Western Express Highway, Santacruz, Mumbai NASSCOM is celebrating the 21st edition of its India Leadership Forum. The theme for this year’s conference is ‘Imagineering the Future: Disruptive Innovation for Sensible Growth’. Key speakers include Adriana Karaboutis of Dell, Karenann Terrell of Wal-Mart Stores, Vinita Bali of Britannia and Vineet Nayar of HCL Technologies.

Register at www. indialeadershipforum.nasscom.in.

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For a slice of culture in Mumbai through Culturama’s pick of events this month

Art Exhibition

February 6 to March 20|1100h to 2000h

Volte, # 2/19, Kamal Mansion, 1st Floor, Arthur Bunder, Mumbai South African artist William Kentridge is exhibiting his work titled ‘Poems I Used to Know’. The exhibition will include eight installations of projected film fragments that are part of his work in Shostakovich’s opera, ‘The Nose’. Kentridge makes drawings, animated films, prints, tapestries and sculpture, besides directing theatre and opera. Call 022-22041220 for details.

International Dance Festival February 8 to 11| 1400h to 2100h St. Andrew’s College, Saint Dominic Road, Bandra (W), Mumbai

This dance festival will host dance performances, master classes, competitions and more. Participants include MTV’s Americas Best Dance Crew, Bad Boys of Dance, New York City Ballet and more. Call 022-26469120 or 09870066649 for more details.

Mahindra Blues Festival

February 16 and 17 Mehboob Studios, # 100, Hill Road, Bandra (W), Mumbai The third edition of the Mahindra Blues Festival will feature global Blues artistes like Robert Randolph, Jimmie Vaughan, Dana Fuchs, Big Bang Blues and more. There will also be a Blues workshop by Michael Messer, master slide guitarist. Also check out ‘Gibson through the Lens’, a photo exhibition featuring legends with their Gibson Guitars. Book tickets on www.bookmyshow.com or call 09594991124 for more details.

events CALENDAR DELHI

For a slice of culture in Delhi through Culturama’s pick of events this month

Gotye – Live in Concert

Art Show

Blue Frog, The Kila, Seven Style Mile, Opposite the Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, New Delhi Grammy-nominated singer and songwriter, Gotye will play at his first live concert in the country. The multiinstrumentalist and pop artist’s concert will be the finale to the Oz Fest, the cultural festival.

Tickets can be booked at www.bookmyshow.com.

Art Alive Gallery, S-221 Panchsheel Park, New Delhi A unique art show where the walls of the gallery become the artist’s canvas. Join well-known artists like Anjolie Ela Menon, Manjunath Kamath, and many others, as they chat with art lovers in the gallery on their work.

Call 011-41639000 for more details.

Music and Dance Performance

World Sufi Music Festival

February 6|2230h

February 15|1930h

Epicentre, Apparel House, Sector 44, Gurgaon ‘Soul of Japan’ is a music and dance performance in Japanese traditions. Four Japanese masters in traditional dance, drums, folksongs and Shamisen (a traditional threestringed musical instrument) will be performing. Call 01242715000 for more details.

Photography Exhibition

Till Feb 16 | 1100h to 1900h The Japan Foundation, 5 A, Ring Road, Lajpat Nagar, New Delhi The Japan Foundation is exhibiting photographs by nine photographers on Tohoku, the North-eastern section of Honshu Island. This island is the largest in the Japanese Archipelago and is known for its beautiful seas, mountains, rivers and forests. Call 01126442967 for more details.

Till February 28|1100h to 1900h

March 1 to 3 |1830h Humayun’s Tomb Monuments, Mathura Road, New Delhi

This annual festival called ‘Jahan-eKhusrau’ is back, presented by the Rumi Foundation and filmmaker, Muzaffar Ali. The festival is inspired by the Sufi poet Hazrat Amir Khusrau and will feature eminent artists of Sufi traditions from all over the world. Book tickets at www. bookmyshow.in. More details at www. facebook.com/jahanekhusrau.

Workshop for Children Till March 13 | 1130h

Robo Club, Oakland Hotel, B 14, Chirag Enclave, Nehru Place, New Delhi The workshop on Robotics introduces children to simple machines using educational robotic kits. They will be taken through topics like gears, levers, pulleys and wheels, as they construct a variety of mechanisms, and learn real-life applications of mechanical concepts.

Call 09654348322 for more details.

culturama | February 2013

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events

CALENDAR BENGALURU

Exhibition of Cartoons

Music Concert

Indian Cartoon Gallery, Off MG Road, Midford Garden, Bengaluru The Indian Institute of Cartoonists will host an exhibition of legendary cartoonist, the late Mario de Miranda’s works. Honoured with India’s second highest civilian award, the Padma Vibhushan, Miranda gained popularity for his cartoons in The Illustrated Weekly of India.

The gallery is open on all days except Sundays. Call 08041758540 for more details.

Indian Institute of Management (IIM), Bilekahalli, Bannerghatta Road, Bengaluru ‘Unmaad’, the cultural festival of IIM Bengaluru, presents the Scratch Bandits Crew, the Hip Hop band live in concert.

Versatile Indian singer, KK, will also be singing live at the festival, which also has a host of other interesting events.

More details at www.unmaad.com.

English Play

Fireflies Festival of Music

Till February 9|1000h to 1800h

February 9|1730h and 1930h Alliance Francaise de Bangalore, Opp: U.N.I Building, P.B 108, Thimmaiah Road, Millers Road, Millers Road, Bengaluru. Tel: 080-41231340 Centrestage and IndianStage present ‘The Sketches’, featuring five thrilling stories performed by 20 Centrestage performers.

Conceptualised and produced

by Saad Khan, the play will be directed by Vishal Khimraj and Kenneth Sebastian. Book your tickets at www.bookmyshow.com.

The Bangalore Queer Film Festival (BQFF) February 22 to 24

Alliance Francaise de Bangalore, Opp: U.N.I Building, P.B 108, Thimmaiah Road, Millers Road, Millers Road, Bengaluru.

Tel: 080-41231340 The fifth edition of BQFF will be hosted by Good As You (GAY), Swabhava Trust, Pirat Dykes and We’re Here and Queer (WHaQ!). BQFF is an annual event that brings queer films from the world over, photo exhibitions, performances and panel discussions. For the complete schedule, log on to http://blrqueerfilmfest.com, or contact blrqueerfilmfest@ gmail.com for details.

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For a slice of culture in Bengaluru through Culturama’s pick of events this month

culturama | december february 2013 2012

February 9|1830h

February 10| 1200h to 2200h

Fireflies Intercultural Centre, Off Kanakapura Road, Bengaluru The Fireflies Festival of Music is a cultural experience in an open-air amphitheatre featuring music ranging from jazz to tribal folk. The lineup of bands this year includes Bahh Band, Vedanth and Bindu, Spinifex, Sangeet Sadhana, Sufi and Qawwali artistes from Kutch, and Talavattam performances. Call 080-28432725 for more details or visit www.fireflies.org.in for the complete list of performances.

The Bengaluru Temple Festival Till March 3

Across Bengaluru The Heritage trust is conducting the Gudiya Sambhrama festival or the Bengaluru Temple festival, to revive the ancient culture of performing arts.

The festival will bring more than 150 artists from across India performing dance, music, theatre, puppetry and more on every weekend till March 3. The focus of the festival is sacred animals, trees and divine vahanas (vehicles of God). The idea behind the festival is also to give an opportunity for general art followers to experience heritage spaces as centres of performing arts.

Visit www.gudiyasambhrama.org for more details or call +91 97312 07477.

culturama | February 2013

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events CALENDAR CHENNAI

Art@Edge Interactions February 2 onwards |1800h to 2000h

# 32/ 26, Vijay Mahal, 5th Main Road, Kasturba Nagar, Adyar Every Saturday, the Art@ Edge Gallery hosts interactive sessions with artistes from different fields. February begins with Vikku Vinayakram, a Grammy Award winning Indian percussionist who popularised the ghatam, an earthen pot. For other artistes to be featured in the month, call 9789989321.

Don Moen – Live in Concert

February 16 and 17|1730h YMCA College of Physical Education, Nandanam, Chennai Don Moen is an American singer-songwriter, pastor and producer of Christian worship music, having sold over 5 million albums worldwide. His name is associated with some of the most well-known songs in contemporary Christian music. To book online, log on to www.indianstage. in, or call 09243777970 for home delivery tickets.

Art Exhibition

February 25 to March 3 | 1000h to 1900h Lalit Kala Akademi, # 4, Greams Road, Chennai InKo Centre presents ‘The Emerging Frame’, a series of four exhibitions spread over four quarters to commemorate 2013 as the 40th year of IndoKorean relations. As part of the celebrations, InKo Centre will also conduct a two-week ceramic glaze workshop from February 1 to 15, by Korean ceramicist, Sung Jae Choi. Call 044-28291692 for more details.

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culturama | february 2013

For a slice of culture in Chennai through Culturama’s pick of events this month

Handmade Market

February 8 and 9|1000h to 2000h Gallery Sri Parvati, # 28/160, Eldams Road, Teynampet, Chennai ‘By Hand, From the Heart’ is an exhibition of handmade articles made by independent designers, and artists from Mumbai, Bengaluru and Chennai.

It features vintage-inspired home décor, handmade bath and body works, rural handicrafts, jewellery, art and craft kits, garden accessories and more. Contact 044-24353341 for more details or visit www. facebook.com/byhandfromtheheart

Pottery Workshop

February 17| 1530h DakshinaChitra, East Coast Road, Muttukadu, Chennai Jack Troy, a potter, teacher and educator will conduct a workshop on pottery. The workshop will include aspects of wheel-thrown pots and aesthetics behind it. He will also interact with the audience, discussing issues of pottery, poetry and more.

Call 044-27472603 for more details.

Workshop for Children Till March 16|1500h

Vanilla Children’s Place, # 89, Bishop Garden, Greenways Road, R.A Puram, Chennai The Science Factory will run a series of workshops for children aged between 5 and 7 years with fun, handson scientific experiments covering a range of topics like liquids, air, heat and metals. Call 044-42066660 for registration and course details.

Advertiser's Feature

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Contemporary home décor and furniture grab the eye with their aesthetic styling. The 3,600 sq. ft. store offers end-to-end solutions in home accessories, collectibles, bed, bath and table linen and kids’ décor.

With its unique merchandising, the store has something for everyone, like its new range of furniture, SG Ligne. The range has traditional handmade wooden accent furniture with metal and glass features. Available as consoles, side tables, sideboards and coffee tables, SG Ligne is a throwback on the days of the ‘Raj’.

Complement your choice of furniture with an array of décor. ‘Home & Style’ also offers an exclusive range of organic clothing.

Open all days except Monday from 11am to 7pm, it is located at No. 27, 10th Cross Street, Rajalakshmi Nagar, Velachery, Chennai – 600042. Call 8754476886 for details or follow them on Facebook www.facebook. com/homenstyle.

culturama | February 2013

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Thought Leaders

Being Mind Full R Chandrasekaran, the Group Chief Executive, Technology & Operations at Cognizant, talks to us about why it is important to have strong value systems for success in today’s world

PHOTO Tobias Schmidt www.artandshoot.de 46

culturama | february 2013

A CONVERSATION with R Chandrasekaran or Chandra always works on two levels – the intellectual and the subconscious. On the intellectual level, there is very little that Chandra doesn’t know – be it industry knowledge, India’s dynamic market or cross-cultural understanding – which directly impacts the subconscious level, because the learning is immense – from the way he conducts himself, to the words he chooses to express a certain thought process, to the confidence he exudes, to the quiet humour he brings in, Chandra’s leadership qualities are unique. Something that Cognizant recognised way back in 1994, when the company was established and Chandra joined their team. Over the years, he has donned many hats, and currently leads Cognizant’s solutions and global delivery teams worldwide. “I think working with people from different cultures is an advantage, if you establish your credibility. To get them to trust you, you need to be yourself,” he says. “Cognizant is a global company; wherever they are, people should adapt to the ‘Cognizant culture’ and value system. This should define who the company is and who the person is. Be culturally sensitive, but imbibe the value system of the global corporation,” he adds.

Two Times Two With a Bachelor’s degree in Mechanical Engineering from the National Institute of Technology, Trichy, and an MBA from the Indian Institute of Management, Bengaluru, Chandra actively represents Cognizant in a number of industry forums, including NASSCOM and the Confederation of Indian Industries (CII). He has a keen sense of changing market dynamics and believes that what a global citizen needs to keep in mind to succeed in this global village is “understanding, appreciating and adapting to different cultures”. “For instance, at Cognizant, we follow the ‘Two in a Box’ model to manage our client engagements.

Any client relationship is focused on customer relationship and delivery. If these two are executed well, the relationship grows in time. We are all from diverse backgrounds, but this background doesn’t matter when both the people in the box have a joint responsibly to execute the relationship. They both are responsible for ensuring that all aspects of the deal are ok.

This is the unique thing about our company that we have two culturally diverse people working toward the same goal. Goals are established in such a way that one can’t work without the other. We combine the best of both the worlds, or the best of multiple worlds in a multi-location context, and the net result is a unique experience our customers enjoy,” he explains.

Success Story Perhaps that’s one of the reasons why Cognizant was named the world’s third most admired IT services company, after Accenture and IBM, by Fortune magazine in 2011. “If I should define why Cognizant is successful, it is because of the entrepreneurial spirit. Cognizant is a 7 billion dollar company, but we feel the same as we did when we started. In fact, it feels like we are a $7 billion start-up! We have created the organisational fabric in such a way that there are lot of empowered units which are running a mini company. They are given overall guidelines and they flourish, they take their own decisions to grow the business. Unless you are a team player, there is no success. The most brilliant employee needs to be a team player,” says Chandra.

Future Stars This insight, however, seems to be directly opposed to what India’s educational system propagates of aggressive competition and one-upmanship. And considering large multinationals are hiring young Indians from just such a talent pool, how do they reconcile to these differing value systems and bring the change needed for success? “There are a lot of things we need to do here. Our educational system has the exam-oriented approach. In some cases, it has become

more of a business. Not all faculty are inspiring these days in colleges. We, the corporate, can’t change the system, but we can add something, an additional intervention for students.

We run a 14-week programme for fresh graduates, more like a finishing school, before they are deployed in projects. At the national level, we need to attract bright people for teaching and corporates also need to dedicate some time to make themselves available as adjunct faculty in these institutions.

Currently, the raw material is good; students have shaped up despite these challenges,” he says.

India versus the World Ask him about the West’s perception of having to deal with India’s apparent lackadaisical attitude at the workplace, the constant complaint being, ‘Why don’t Indians take timelines seriously?’ or ‘Why do they forget half the things, don’t take notes, fall back on deadlines and delivery schedules. Is a job well done not important to Indians?’, and Chandra says with a smile, “I hope this is not a Cognizant client!” before continuing, “I believe this is overstated. If that is the case, why would the IT industry be successful? If we can’t complete projects on time and keep over promising and not delivering, this wouldn’t be a 100+ billion dollar industry!”

Road Ahead And finally, we ask him where India is headed, as it struggles with unpredictable politics and an overall air of economic dejection, and Chandra signs off with, “I’m optimistic about India. I think we will make the upward surge. I think the 9% growth was probably inflated. We could have grown that much if our political environment was conducive and stable. Things will change, I am positive.” .

Quick Bytes India’s work culture: Submissive One useful word for expats working here to carry in India: Different Living Indian leader that you admire: FC Kohli, he is always relevant to the future and updated, conversant on any topic Personal work mantra: I am a people-oriented person. I trust people.

Start-up ideas: Data Science is going to be a big thing. There is so much of data we generate by using technology. I believe data analytics is a good place for start-ups.

culturama | February 2013

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Seeing India Marina Marangos

Horn OK, Please The wedding bands of India are certainly a class apart with their garish music and flamboyant costumes, making them an intrinsic part of more wedding celebrations across the country

photo Isaa Sayegh Sandrine, France

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photo Douglas Vanherpe, Belgium

WE ALL know that numbers are usually impressive in India and so would it surprise you or astound you if I said that perhaps as many as one million Indians have split lives in the wedding season in India? Their alter ego is playing for one of the thousands of brass bands that accompany a groom mounted on a white horse to his barat or wedding venue, followed by joyful family members as they make their noisy way to the venue.

You cannot live in India and not witness this amazing event even if you are never invited to an Indian wedding, as most of it takes place on the street or along the way between the home and the marriage venue.

The bands are always very distinct with military-style uniforms, tight-fitting jackets full of buttons and epaulets, elaborate turbans and colourful bands, often with white-flared trousers tucked into knee-high boots. The Rajasthani Brass bands have a style of their own with traditional multi-coloured turbans and tunics. They usually consist of several wind and some drum instruments and number anything from six to over twelve men; their output is as varying as the uniforms.

I suspect that perhaps some of them do not practice much from one wedding season to another, while other bands, formed on a more professional basis, have a more tuneful and popular repertoire based on some of the Bollywood favourites and some of the traditional marching tunes.

So the inevitable question that arises is that this is probably another unique feature of Indian weddings and I have been intrigued about how and why it started.

Going a bit further afield, it was during the 19th Century that brass bands began to spring up in Europe and America, and the UK had a strong tradition in processional bands. There is some historical documentation suggesting that it was because of the instruments left behind by the British army that brass bands in India sprang up. In ‘Round the Horn’, a brass band anthology, it is stated that brass instruments often travel with armies and end up in the hands of locals. The various locals who took up these instruments clearly enjoyed the experience.

This coincided with Independence and that strange mixture

of cross-cultural trends and activities, which helped give rise to the bands so widespread over central and northern India today.

They became frequent participants in all processional and army shows. How and when they crossed into the celebration of marriages is not entirely clear but the leap was made, and now it is quite inconceivable to have a wedding without a band. There is a Rajasthani saying to this effect, which goes something along the lines of “no band, no wedding”.

Gregory Booth was so captivated by them that he wrote a book dedicated to them called ‘Brass Baja’, which I suspect, might uncover some more secrets about the history and the traditions of these lovely bands. Interestingly, he notes, “that while music performed by them helps generate emotions of ecstasy and joy, the bandsmen who play it are in the fringes of the social events they herald, and are ascribed low social status both musically and socially”.

In Europe and in the UK, one of the achievements of brass bands is that they created what was probably the first mass participation of working class people in instrumental music.

In India, you could certainly see that it is mostly the working classes that participate in them for the pleasure the music gives them as well as a way of earning a little more money for their families. The traditions and the instruments are passed down from father to son. Women, incidentally, do not appear to have a part in any of them.

A band will often have a little shopfront where the interested shopper can enquire about rates and uniforms these days a large number of them are also available online. Whatever the quality of music that is produced, it is almost impossible to stand still when you hear them. Therefore, they are universally associated with having a good time and leading the way to a couple’s future happiness.

The authors in ‘Round the Horn’ put it slightly differently, and I will share this with you as it is simply so true of the India we know and love: “Indian Wedding bands are an essential part of the wedding because they can play louder than the traffic and they don’t need any electricity to produce their sound!”.

The writer is Greek-Cypriot and lived in Delhi for over two years. culturama | February 2013

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Being India Ann Pec k

Help-Kids-India gives you the opportunity to transform the lives of underprivileged children in rural Southern India through education and, in the process, it transforms your own life

Change Makers 50

culturama | february 2013

HAVE you ever visited the hill station of Kodaikanal? Winding up the scenic ghat road to the picturesque hill station of Kodaikanal, you are transformed from the hot dusty plains to the cool climate of the mountains scented with eucalyptus trees and shrouded in mist.

Something special is happening here that is attracting attention globally.

Nestled in tiny villages of clustered thatch and mud huts are small schools called “crèches” designed to accommodate 50 children between the ages of three and five. These schools are established for children who do not have the chance to go to school and are often left on the streets alone while their parents work.

The mother’s dilemma is a real catch22. When a mother goes to work, usually hard labour coolie work, carrying bricks, sand or wood on her head, breaking rocks by the side of the road or working long hours in agricultural fields, leaving home well before dawn, her young children are left home alone. If she does not go to work, there is no food at home that night to feed her children. What would you do?

It’s an impossible choice.

Most women choose to go to work rather than face the inconsolable crying of hungry children at night, and her own hunger pains. Men work if they can, but unemployment is high in this region, and work at $2 per day (approximately Rs. 100) is not enough to support a family.

Older siblings are often kept out of school to take care of younger children, adding to the lack of education in their lives and repeating the cycle of poverty in yet another generation.

Help-Kids-India is a US non-profit organisation that partners with the Betsy Elizabeth Trust in starting schools in villages where there is critical need to just sustain life. Children left at home alone have no access to food, water or shelter during the day, no safety net. What we have done is start small schools that provide three nutritious meals a day, two sets of uniforms, and a place to be . . . with nurturing, well-trained teachers who teach and care for the children, so mothers can work.

And to think it all began when I travelled to India for the first time in 1972 on my honeymoon. I was young and naïve and unable to absorb all that India revealed in challenging vignettes of life on the street. As a teacher and artist, I ended up teaching art for five years at the Kodaikanal International School, where I currently live part of the year with my husband, Bruce Peck, well-known artist and etcher.

I never dreamt of doing this work, but after opening my first crèche, ‘Little Lilies’, in the Palangi area, and watching the expressions on the faces of children coming into their school for the first time, I was transformed. The change has taken place over the last 12 years, from a casual observer to a devoted participant that morphed into a life-changing career.

The transformation does not stop with me. Children enter our schools insecure and malnourished, tired and often sick, but leave at a healthy weight, confident and ready to continue to the next level of education — government or convent schools. We find that bringing children of the lowest economic sector into school at an early age impacts parents with positive benefits, by reducing the chance of child labour and ensuring that children stay in school. Education is the key to breaking the cycle of poverty, the gift that keeps on giving.

Our crèche programme provides education in writing Tamil and English, counting, drama, dance and art. Hindu, Muslim and Christian children learn and play together under one roof, with opportunities to celebrate their distinctive traditions and festivals.

The excitement spills over into global contacts near and far, primarily international schools who see our crèches as a unique service opportunity for their students to gain a new world perspective through experience in local villages. High school and college students can pursue areas of concentrated study in early childhood education, engineering, environmental science, health, business, marketing and the arts with our project.

In addition to our crèches, we have three outreach projects that provide critical intervention into village communities

Ann Peck

where we have an established reputation, because we educate their children. A women’s training centre, Sewing Empowers Women (S.E.W), a small health awareness clinic, and a smokeless-stove project, also provide hands-on opportunities for student volunteers to work in collaboration with rural people to implement appropriate development.

When children graduate from our crèches at ages five and six, they become role models in the next school classroom, able to help each other, share their knowledge and guide others in the rigourous routine of a full school day. We welcome you to visit and participate in the incredible transformation.

Student groups are welcome between January and May each year. Reservations can be made by writing to me at annpeck.helpkidsindia@gmail.com. We will provide specific work opportunities aligned with your interests and guide you in travel and accommodation choices. Make your next holiday a chance to serve a child in need, an experience that may change your life. It changed mine.

The writer is American and Director of Help-Kids-India. For more information check our website: www.help-kids-india.org or call 4542-244463.

culturama | February 2013

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At Global Adjustments

Young & Happening The India Immersion Centre at Global Adjustments hosted the largest group of students last month for the popular ‘Taste of India’ programme

WHEN a group of 33 jet-lagged University of IOWA students, along with an equally jet-lagged Professor, walked into the India Immersion Centre for our ‘Taste of India’ (TOI) programme, we were understandably worried.

But ten minutes into the programme and we were quickly reminded of the insatiable energy and palpable enthusiasm of a group of young minds! Add to that mix ten students who were on their first trip outside of the US, and you can imagine the vibrant texture of our morning.

The TOI sessions are essentially discovering India through your five senses of touch, smell, taste, hearing and sight, with the hope that participants will take home with them the sixth sense of India – that all pervasive verve and dynamism of colour, warmth and spirit.

We began with a traditional Indian welcome, garlands and tikka (red dot on the forehead to symbolically activate the “third eye”), followed by a tour of the India Immersion Centre itself. The quintessential Indian courtyard, an indispensable aspect of homes in ancient India; the Indian kitchen experience with rows and rows of colourful spice jars; an interactive Bharatnatyam dance performance by

danseuse Shobana Bhalchandra, who aptly compared some of the movements to ballet; the fun sari-draping session; the exciting meal on a banana leaf; the Indian slokas or prayers for a lesson on India’s ancient value systems, and an insightful Q & A session, where students surprised us with questions on India’s caste system, on what Indians think of Americans, arranged marriages and more. We present some snapshots from the session.

What They Said “I enjoyed the exploration of dance symbolism. TOI was a practical and hands-on introduction to Indian culture.”

Calyanne Cronch “The session was a wonderful preparation for complete immersion into India.”

Orion Abrians “I was delighted with the thorough demonstration and the extraordinary job that Global Adjustments does of creating cross-cultural awareness.”

Erin Robinson

For any delegation or visitor groups, you can book our taste of india programme, a three-hour fun eye-opener on India's living culture. For bookings, contact courses@globaladjustments.com 52

culturama | february 2013

Sunday | 6 pm | 31st March, 2013 Music Academy, Chennai Be part of this movement and Partner with us for the historic performance of a packed house of 1400 Chennaiites. Sponsorships now Open.

Support the Twin Causes of Retiring Musicians and Womens Empowerment Contact: anupama@globaladjustments.com, +91 98416d4816

culturama | February 2013

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Global Citizen

Heart Felt India

Photo: Global adjustments annual expatriate photo competition

N e i l M i l l er

To live in India means never having to say Thank You – our writer discovers what lies on the other side of this unassuming little phrase MY WIFE’S SMS said, “Call as soon as you can” – never a great sign. I soon learned that my young son had fallen and cut his forehead and was off to the hospital.

As my wife didn’t have a car, she asked our friendly “Uncle and Auntie” that we have known for over two years to help.

My neighbour drove my wife and son to the hospital, where they saw a doctor. Uncle waited at the hospital and purchased the medicines needed for the quick patch-up. He then drove them back home, recalling stories of the falls his own children had had, so that my wife didn’t feel guilty.

When I finally reached home, my son was already happily in bed and I was overwhelmed by a strong feeling of gratitude.

I had to satisfy my uncontrollable American urge to go and immediately say “thank you” for the generous act. We appreciate it when people do things for us, but we also like to acknowledge them right away.

I tried to choose my words carefully: “I am very thankful that you were here to take care of my son.” To which, my neighbour replied, “Never say ‘thank you’. Why else are we here but to do these things?”

Perhaps it is dharma, or perhaps the teachings of the Bhagavad Gita, but somewhere in the Indian mindset there is a strong feeling that one should not say “Thank you” for doing something that is expected to be done. To say “Thanks” trivialises the act to a simple transaction between strangers.

To not say “Thanks” shows there is a deeper relationship of assumed obligation that we will take care of each other

regardless. To live in an Indian family is to live in a massive invisible safety net that sometimes requires you to adjust a bit for others, and also requires others to adjust for you without flinching.’

Another friend living in India describes this cultural tension as adopting a “long-term view of reciprocity”. Those of us from individualist cultures don’t like the idea of an ongoing “debt” to someone and prefer to live without these long-term obligations. I would have thanked even my parents for doing the same for my child. However, being in India has opened my eyes to the beauty that exists when friends and family are willing to engage in such a deep relationship that the phrase “Thank you” loses the lustre that we ascribe to it.

Thanks, India. Or rather, as I rephrased my response to my neighbour, “It makes me so happy to know that my family is living in a place with such wonderful people all around us.”

Food for Thought Questions expatriates asked us about India this month: 1. Is there a lost Indian civilization that Indians are trying to look for?

2. What kind of regional differences exist between states in India?

3. Caste shows up in the work place (I think) how do I handle it?

If you have a question or an answer write to us at courses@globaladjustments.com

The writer is Head of Business Strategy for Global Adjustments (GA). He is American and has been living in India for the past two years. For a copy of GA’s New Training Catalogue featuring all of our courses and modules, contact courses@globaladjustments.com.

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culturama | February 2013

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Holistic Living E k n at h E a s w a r a n

The Inner Chamber

In this second installment of Chapter 4 of the Essence of the Bhagavad Gita, Sri Easwaran takes off from last issue’s message of going beyond the physical and takes us into the inner chamber of our self photo Alan Dougans, AUSTralia

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IN THE Gita, both body and mind are considered tools of consciousness: the body is an external instrument and the mind an internal instrument. We are neither; we are the Self, the operator, who uses body and mind as powerful tools for mastering the art of living. We can think of these two together as the car we drive; the body is the chassis and the mind the engine.

Indian philosophy goes so far as to call both of these two “bodies,” which is one reason Russian dolls make such an apt illustration. Just as we have a physical body, according to this idea, we have a mental or “subtle” body consisting of thoughts, memories, desires, and other such intangibles. The physical body, being physical, is subject to decay; but the subtle body is a field of forces, which are nonphysical in the sense that they are not measurable in the objective world. But that doesn’t make them less real. We can’t see electricity, but we can see the effects of it. Similarly, though we can’t see anger, we can see the effects of it, not only in damaged relationships but even in damage to the body in heart attack or stroke. And although we can’t see forgiveness, we can see the effects of it in the healing of emotional wounds.

James Clerk Maxwell found that electricity and magnetism, which seem so different in everyday life, are different expressions of a single force. Similarly, sankhya traces the thousand and one emotions we experience during the day to a handful of deeper forces called samskaras in Sanskrit, which express themselves differently under different conditions.

The most virulent of these in the Gita are the Big Three: selfish desire, anger, and fear. These three are closely related, but each has its own tactics. Selfish desire – kama, often translated as lust – is the fever of sensory craving. Anger – krodha, which covers a gamut from background resentments to outright rage – is essentially an expression of self-will, the violent drive to have one’s own way. And fear – bhaya, which includes vague emotions like anxiety and insecurity – arises from separateness: feeling isolated and alone in an alien world.

In fact, as you can see, all three flow from this acute sense of separateness from the whole; and therefore the root of all these is the sense of a separate self, which is both the source and the result of body-consciousness.

The subtle body, therefore, is not a thing but a process. This is a key point, because a process can be changed – redirected, transformed, even stilled, if one only knows how.

Like electricity and magnetism, the forces in the mind shape the field around them – the field called prakriti, the universal ground of the phenomenal world. In this field, every action leaves an impression; and since this includes all action, mental as well as physical, even thoughts have consequences that affect the field, leaving impressions that act on each other and build up with repetition – accumulated effects that last much, much longer than their material causes.

The personal implications of this are staggering: the subtle body contains the record of all our thoughts. Every thought we think is registered in this inner body! And since thoughts

record our experiences and are themselves expressed in words and actions, the subtle body may be said to contain the accumulated record of our lives.

In the 1930s, a brilliant Canadian neurosurgeon named Wilder Penfield happened by accident upon a similar kind of record in the brain. Since the brain itself does not feel pain, Dr. Penfield had developed a way of using only local anesthesia during surgery so that he could talk with the patient while probing areas of the brain with mild current from an electrode.

In the midst of one such operation, one of his patients suddenly began to describe a scene she recognized from her past, which she was experiencing again in full detail. As long as the probe remained at that particular location in her brain, the experience continued; when the probe was removed, the experience ceased – but later, whenever that part of the brain was stimulated, the same experience would be replayed, as vividly as before.

After this startling discovery, Penfield observed the same phenomenon in other patients. Each insisted that the experience was not like a memory or a vivid dream, but exactly like living through the event again. Penfield came to the conclusion that the nervous system contains a detailed library of past experiences locked into specific locations in the human brain.

This is not the same as the library of impressions in the subtle body; the brain seems too plastic for every memory to be enshrined forever in a particular physical location. But Dr. Penfield’s observations provide a dramatic illustration of how much more of the past our consciousness contains than we might guess – a critical point when we look later at what the Gita says happens at the time of death.

To be continued…

Classes every saturday Time: 3.30 pm Venue: India Immersion Centre,

# 5, Third Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai 28.

Introductory Presentation on Passage Meditation – Learn how to develop greater patience with yourself and with others. A long-time passage meditator, Ranjini Manian, will run a one-hour introductory presentation on this practical method of meditation, originated by Sri Eknath Easwaran.

Email Ranjini at easwaransindia@gmail.com for more information.

Reprinted with permission from Essence of the Bhagavad Gita: A Contemporary Guide to Yoga, Meditation & Indian Philosophy by Eknath Easwaran (Nilgiri Press, 2011). Copyright 2011 by The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971, www.easwaran.org. culturama | February 2013

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Give to India She f a l i G a ne s h

Frame Worthy A peek into an initiative that uses art for the benefit of the underprivileged

FOR V.S Ramana, charity begins at home and continues even at work. Giving comes very naturally to him and he chooses to give from the heart and hands. As head of Corporate Communications at Larsen & Toubro Limited, Ramana draws a grey line between Personal and Corporate Social responsibility.

As he also oversees the CSR activities for his company, he firmly believes that “corporates who believe in CSR, need to sensitise their staff to be socially conscious and participate actively in giving to their chosen charity. I call it Individual Social Responsibility.”

Essentially a communications professional for over three decades, Ramana writes, sings and is also a cartoonist. But his passion lies in photography and his ambition is to utilise his passion towards a charitable cause.

HeArt Beat is Ramana’s personal initiative that supports the Little Drops Home for the destitute in Chennai. The photographs that Ramana has shot during his extensive travels have been used in a creative way, highlighting colours and aspects of the subject. “FOTO ART, as I call my collection, is basically art seen differently through a camera. I use the Giclee printing technique to transform my pictures into surreal-looking portraits of

Ramana (left) at the inauguration of his recent exhibition

nature,” he says. “In the Giclee technique, the ink and paper used for printing are chemical free. This makes the work of art last much longer,” he adds.

Ramana wants to promote art by the physically challenged and specially abled young artists who need a foothold for their art. He plans to start a trust in the long term, linking it with larger organisations that would use the artwork in their office spaces. Ramana recently exhibited his work for the first time in Chennai, proceeds of which went to Little Drops.

FOTO ART can be viewed on Ramana’s website www.vsramana.in. Contact him at +91 99401 98135 or email at nishjayram@gmail.com for more information.

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Myth and Mythology De v d u t t P a t t a n a i k

Lost in Transition When faced with the impossible, what is the leader expected to do? Devdutt says the answer is with Vishnu, the Preserver of the Holy Trinity

photo Pia Berglund, SWEDEN

WE ARE a mid-sized company trading in engineering goods. The slowdown has hit us badly and on top of that the Chinese competitors are growing aggressive by the day. The costs are mounting because of inflation and revenue has been falling in the past couple of years. To make things worse, key employees have been leaving too. Honestly, I see no future in the stage we are in and in the industry I am in. Help me take a decision to quit or try and rejuvenate a dying business.

Whether I help you take a decision or not, you

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have already taken the decision, and even if you have not, the market seems to have taken the decision for you. Or maybe not. Maybe that is your reading of the market. Maybe, out there, buyers are looking for goods and services and ideas that only you can offer. You have to find them. Or you have to join forces with the competition, help them so that you can help yourself.

Or you have to roll back on your own vision: perhaps you overreached yourself. There is no one answer to the situation you are in. It all depends on how you read

the situation. For you, your reading is the truth. Others may read the situation very differently.

You are, at this moment, like Vishnu seated on the serpent of Adi-Ananta-Sesha, One-Infinity-Zero – you can take one clear decision and stick to it, lose yourself in infinite analyses and visions, or shut shop and go to sleep, a dreamless slumber. Around you is the ocean of milk, the market of possibilities, that will exist always, whatever choice you make.

You could choose to be Vishnu’s last avatar, Kalki, ride the white horse, brandish the sword, and shut operations, as your world has been overwhelmed by forces that you cannot push back. You could choose to be Vishnu’s first avatar, Matsya, the tiny fish, hoping that a Manu will protect you, put you in a pot, save you from the big fish, and spend the rest of your life growing, claiming resources, safe in a bubble, forgetting the jungle out there. Or you can choose to be Kurma, the next avatar, churning the ocean of milk, balancing opposing forces: buyers and sellers, regulators and competitors, investors and employees, constantly aware when to pull, and when to let go.

The thing about business is that the yajaman or leader takes the call. Markets may rise and fall, competitors may come and go, but it is you who steers the direction of your ship. Your employees are jumping ship perhaps because they see you directionless and lost. Imagine their anxiety. You are so consumed by your fears that you cannot see their fears. That is the real issue. Not the world out there but you. The collapse is more with you, than outside.

You may quit this business but then where will you go?

You will have to start another business, or take up a job.

The yagna will restart. And the conditions then and there may or may not be favourable. There are no guarantees in life. And no permanence. That is why everyone seeks a leader, a yajaman, a Vishnu, who brings hope and faith to the rest. You need to rediscover the Vishnu within you, or seek one for yourself. You need to find that Vishnu, within or without, to be able to preserve what you have created, adapt it to the yuga you are in, so that it survives, even thrives.

The writer is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology.

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Child Friendly Nanna Pedersen

Fashionista

Parama Pada Sopanam

By Sudha G

BEING an expat child is a lot of fun. I have lived half my life in India and China, and I have seen so many things and places.

I love the world of fashion, and have big plans on being a famous designer myself. Almost every day I make drafts of new designs – mostly clothes for young girls like me. India has inspired me a lot. All the beautiful colours and patterns you see here in India make my drawing special and colourful. I don’t think my drafts would have been so full of colour if I been only in my home country, Denmark.

In Denmark, the colour you use for clothes depends on the season. We only use a few colours for every season. Here, in India, I see a lot of bright colours. Indian girls are very good at putting colours together. Most days when I finish school, I go to my room, draw my ideas in my sketchbooks (I must have filled 20 books by now) and also find inspiration on television, through shows like Selena Gomez, Glee and Desperate Housewives (because of the nice dresses and clothes).

I’m very tall for a ten-year-old, so it is hard to find the right size for my age here in India. Most likely, I end up in adult clothes in small sizes. I like that a lot! Because it is almost the style of clothes I design at home. My mom, on the other hand, finds it problematic and wants me to dress like a ten-year-old would in Denmark.

My stay in India ends this summer. I hope all the impressions I have got here will last for years to come. Hopefully, it will be the ethnic inspiration if my dream comes true, and I end up becoming a famous designer.

The writer is a ten-year-old Danish girl living in Chennai.

Parama Pada Sopanam means “Steps (Sopanam) to the Highest Place (Parama Pada)”. The traditional version of the popular and contemporary game, Snakes and Ladders, Parama Pada Sopanam is believed to be symbolic of our attempt to reach God with the ladders representing the virtues and the snakes representing the vices.

Traditionally, this game is played on the night of Vaikunta Ekadashi (the 11th day after the new moon in the Tamil month of Margazhi, usually December). Many Hindus believe that the door to Vaikunta, the abode of Lord Vishnu, will be wide open to welcome the devout and the faithful. On this day, the devout stay up all night fasting and praying, and playing the game helps them pass the time till dawn when the fast is broken.

In Kreeda’s (a popular brand in India specialising in reviving traditional Indian games) version of the game, there is a large rolled up cloth game board, divided into 132 squares; a maroon pouch with four coloured wooden counters; and two long metal dies or the dhayakattai with notches to indicate the number.

Each snake or vice has been named after a demon or rakshasa from Hindu mythology. They are Ravana (lust), Hiranyaksha (power), Narakasura (cruelty), Bakasura (greed), Duryodhana (ambition), Kumbhakarna (laziness), Karkodaga (jealousy), Sishupala (over-confidence), Dhakshaka (anger), Mahabali (pride), Surapadman (vengefulness), Hiranyakashipu (arrogance), and Mahisasura (wickedness).

Unlike the snakes, the ladders do not have names. Instead, they have attributes representing honesty, concentration, hard work, courtesy, helpfulness, determination, dedication, compassion, wisdom and contentment.

The dhayakattai are fascinating. One side of each die is blank and represents “0”, but put together they have a value of “12”. The game can only begin when a player throws the die with a value of “1”. The game ends with the first player reaching the 132nd square.

Sudha blogs on books, travel, photography, music and more at http://thatandthisinmumbai.wordpress.com

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iseries

What is it about?

Ravi Mohan Saini, a professor of history, is accused of murdering his best friend, Anil Varshney, a linguist and symbolist, who finds an ancient seal that traces its roots to the Mahabharatha and Krishna’s lost city, Dwaraka. Saini finds himself in the thick of a conspiracy, with a serial killer on the loose, calling himself Krishna’s 10th avatar or manifestation on earth. Along with his doctoral student, Priya, and Inspector Radhika Singh, Saini is on the brink of unravelling an ancient secret.

Who is it by?

Ashwin Sanghi, a management student running his family business, realises that writing is his calling and specialises in historical thrillers.

Why should I read it?

Read it for Sanghi’s exhaustive research, for how he connects the dots – archaeological evidence to historical facts to legends and epics to modern science, and for the racy plot. Be warned that owing to the nature of the subject, it could get tedious at times with constant information overload.

i see

Album Full Circle: Carnegie Hall 2000 by Pandit Ravi Shankar

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What is it about?

Pandit Ravi Shankar’s live concert at Carnegie Hall in 2000, along with his daughter, Anoushka Shankar, Full Circle presents five tracks in two ragas (specific melodic formulas in Indian classical music) and shows that the genius of Pandit Ravi Shankar’s music does not wane with age. He was 80 when he performed at this concert, and returns to Carnegie Hall 62 years after his first performance.

Who is it by?

Pandit Ravi Shankar is India’s best-known contemporary musician, popularising the sitar, a stringed classical Indian instrument. To know more about him, turn to our ‘Past Tens’ column on page 12.

Why should I listen to it?

For one, this album earned Ravi Shankar a Grammy Award for the Best World Music Album. Second, you can see why he is the sitar maestro, especially in the track, Mishra Gara – his fingers seem to simply fly with the music. And finally, it gives you a sense of the richness of Ravi Shankar’s music, that though defined as contemporary, never strayed from its classical roots.

What is it about?

Based on a book by the same name, Chemmeen, translated as the ‘Anger of the Sea’, is at its heart, a tragic love story. Karuthamma, daughter of a Hindu fisherman, falls in love with Pareekutty, son of a Muslim trader. Circumstances and social mores lead to Karuthamma marrying Palani, instead. Her love affair, however, precedes her arrival at Palani’s village, Karuthamma’s chance encounter with Pareekutty one night, adds to the popular belief of the sea goddess consuming the husband of an unfaithful wife.

Who is it by?

The movie is directed by award-winning Malayalam filmmaker, Ramu Kariat, while the book has been written by Thakazhi Sivasankara Pillai, recipient of India’s highest literary award, the Jnanpith.

Why should I watch it?

One of the first movies in Malayalam to be shot in colour, watch Chemmeen for its stellar performances, for its breathtaking visuals and for its evergreen music. It won the National Award for Best Film and was also the first South Indian film to win the Indian President’s Gold Medal for Best Film in 1965.

culturama | february 2013

Book The Krishna Key by Ashwin Sanghi

i hear

i read

indian Book, film & Music Review

Film Chemmeen (Malayalam)

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IN T HIS MAGAZINE Reach thousands of expatriates and Indians through Culturama, India’s only cultural magazine for expatriates. w n. sgt lo or eb@a gl lao d n et n s t. sc. coomm dwe w sig b aj luasd tj ums et m

culturama | February 2013

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Tell us your Story

The ouse Whisperer Anita Krishnaswamy, President of Global Adjustments and relocation expert, will answer all those niggling questions you might have on housing and realty in India. Anita comes with many years of experience of working with expat clients across the major metros in India to help them find their perfect home. She can be reached at anita@globaladjustments.com

How common and frequent are electricity and water cuts in India?

(French tenant in Chennai) In a developing country like India, the power situation cannot be compared to the standards of developed countries. Sixty-five percent of the power is generated from thermal power stations (coal, natural gas, petroleum products, agricultural waste and domestic waste). With the increasing industrial growth in India, industrial power is increasing as is the domestic market consumption.

With acute shortages in power supply, India has started looking at alternate energies to meet the demand. Patterns of power cuts and power outages vary from state to state. Power cuts are normally announced and are regular. It may vary from an hour per day to two hours per day in urban cities, and much more in towns, suburbs and rural areas. I would recommend you understand the power cut pattern in your city by asking your neighbours or the local officials at the electricity board. Since the power cut pattern is periodically changed, it may not be published in any website.

I would also like to take this opportunity to appeal to the readers of this column to save energy and power in India. Switching off the power of EVERY APPLIANCE when not in use could save a lot of power for this country. Homes have switches for each of the electrical appliance like air-conditioners, water heaters, microwave ovens, televisions and music systems, and computers.

Every contribution counts.

Is there a cable for television or do we need a satellite dish?

(American tenant in Bengaluru) All metros are now moving from cable to satellite TV. Satellite TV is mainly a digital satellite receiver, which is also available in a better quality known as High Definition or HD now. The connection involves setting up of a dish on the terrace or outdoor space of the house/apartment, which is then connected to your TV. Multiple TVs can also be connected to one dish. It is popularly referred to as DTH (Direct-to-Home).

The process of setting up a connection normally takes up to a maximum of three days – exceptions need to be made for cases where cables in the house/ apartment do not support the dish and need to be changed or extended.

Satellite TV providers offer a wide range of channels and some of them even offer Japanese and French channels. Different recharge options are available and customers have the benefit of choosing from a wide range of options.

Follow us on

If you have any comments, suggestions or queries for this column, write to anita@globaladjustments.com 66

culturama | february 2013

home search - listings by global adjustments Chennai

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culturama | February 2013

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rajasthan palaces. forts. relive the past.

milesworth holidays india • srilanka • maldives • and beyond

visit: www.milesworth.com Milesworth Travels & Tours Pvt. Ltd., 39 R M Towers, 108 Chamiers Road, Chennai. Tel: +91-44-24320522 / 24359554 Fax: +91-44-24342668 E-mail: holidays@milesworth.com culturama | February 2013

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RNI NO.TNENG/2010/32752

REGISTERED No. TN/CC(S) Dn./396/13-15