Culturama June 2013

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India's Only Cultural Magazine for Global Citizens

VOLUME 4, iSSUE 4 june 2013

Brought to you by Global Adjustments

The Stones of India A Love Story Shower Power A to Z of India's much-awaited Monsoon season that begins this month!

A Thousand Splendid Suns

Conversation with Bunker Roy, instrumental in solar electrifying villages

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D e a r

R e a d e r s

I AM writing this note to you from Chidambaram, just a fourhour drive away from Chennai, and home to one of the ancient temples of the country. This visit reminded me of that one question I am often asked, over and over again, by visitors from other shores: “How do you keep track of all the Indian Gods and Goddesses?”

Well, the easy answer would be that we don’t have to know it all in this lifetime and that we will eventually get there! But jokes apart, the intrinsic belief is in the nameless formless divinity, the Real Self, which dwells in all, that is symbolically represented in various names and forms of Gods and Goddesses. Spiritual progress is about seeing the oneness of all.

To symbolise this, Lord Shiva, one of the Holy Trinity and the Destroyer of Evil, manifests as the five elements of nature — earth, water, air, sky and fire in five famous temples, four of which are in Tamil Nadu and one is on the Andhra Pradesh border. In Chidambaram, he is seen as Akasha or sky represented through the manifestation of Natraja, the Lord of Dance. The sanctum has a secret chamber which is “unveiled” by a curtain to show that all we have to do is to remove our veil of ignorance to ‘see’ divinity everywhere, in space itself.

In Tiruvannamalai, he is Lord Arunachala, Lord of Fire, and the inner sanctum is unbelievably hot when you enter it. In Tiruchirappalli, he is in the form of Jal or water, and there is always water in the sanctum despite pumping it out. In Kalahasti, he is in the form of Vayu or Air where the totally windowless sanctum has flames of lamps flickering as if air is blowing all the time. And in Kancheepuram’s Ekambareshwara temple, he is worshipped as Prithvi or Earth, where the idol is made of sand that has stood the test of time. If we re-immerse ourselves in the original belief, then India has always been a thought leader par excellence, revering nature and therefore preventing environmental hazards.

Somewhere, modern man has lost this focus, following mechanical belief and losing the meaning of life.

This issue of Culturama is a gesture to bring this focus back: to the earth and stones and the stories they tell, through the eyes and ears of American Kate Cathey’s eloquent journey from the outside in; to water and its rhythms through our Seeing India story on the Himalayan range; to fire and its light through our In Focus personality, Bunker Roy’s, spectacular work in bringing solar energy to villages; to space and all it holds through our Picture Story on the Friday Market in New Delhi; and finally, to wind and its instantaneous power to spread across pixels and bytes through our website, www.culturama.in, where you can post your comments and connect with our community of readers.

To take a leaf out of George Lucas’ vocabulary, may the force of the five elements be with you.

Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief E-mail: globalindian@globaladjustments.com

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Letters to the Editor

Dear Editor, “I receive two copies of Culturama and savour the articles every month. I share the second copy with my children hoping Eknath Easwaran’s Holistic Living series touches them as much as it touches me.”

— Bhamini Narayan, Co-Founder, Shilpi Boutique, Chennai

photo kate cathey, usa

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian

Consultant Editor praveena shivram

Business Head Sheeba radhamohan

Editorial Coordinator Shefali Ganesh Senior Designer Prem Kumar

Advertising

Bengaluru mukundan T Delhi-NCR preeti bindra, ruchika srivastava Mumbai / pune Farah bakshay, Rachana Sinha Chennai dhiviya m

circulation Manager r. Vijayan

Advisory Committee N Ram, G Venket Ram, Marina Marangos, Suzanne Mcneill, Babette verbeek, beth Chapman

Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R. A. Puram, Chennai 600028, India Telefax. +91-44-24617902 E-mail: culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 7/2, Edward Road, Off Cunningham Road, Bangalore - 560 052. Tel.+91-80-41267152 E-mail: culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-Gurgaon Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon - 122 002. Haryana. Tel.+91-124-435 4236.

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Editor: Ranjini Manian DISCLAIMER: Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher's or the magazine's.

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Dear Editor, “I just received a copy of May issue of Culturama and was delighted with the content. I congratulate you and your team for a truly interesting format. For myself, I will be preoccupied with looking for some of these great movies listed.”

— Bipin Khimasia, India Dear Editor, “I enjoy the articles in Culturama and the portal www.culturama.in looks great too!”

— Rajoshi Ghosh, India Dear Editor, “Always a pleasure to receive my copy of Culturama.

Your Catch 20-20 article by Susan Philip neatly encapsulates the salient points of the IPL, especially for novices like me. The article on 100 years of Indian cinema was beautifully presented.”

— Zarin Mistry, India Dear Editor, "Just got your May issue...some of the pages look very crammed. Especially the Catch 20-20 and the 100 years of cinema feature (pages 24 to 42). I know that so much of info has to be put in, but, even the colours are jarring. Pages 44 onwards...really good. Hope you will take this as constructive criticism.”

— Nikhil Raghavan, India Dear Editor, “Culturama has gone so far since I first saw it in 2001!

Congratulations to the team. I still like reading it even though I am 5,000 miles away!

— Sejal Wasani, Canada Dear Editor, “Nice May issue of Culturama!

Hearty congratulations to the team.”

— Seetharam N Pattabhi, India

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Culturama’s Contributors

Marcel van Mourik is a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years. Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture.

Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. www.devdutt.com Neil Miller is Head of CrossCultural Services at Global Adjustments. He is an American and has been living in Chennai for the past two years. www.globaladjustments.com Eknath Easwaran (1910–1999) was a spiritual teacher, author, and founder of the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation in California. www.easwaran.org Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai. and editorial coordinator of Culturama's various coffee-table books.

Ian Watkinson is a wrestler of words, a cooker of curries, a dabbler with the tabla, a persistent photographer and haphazard historian.

Harini Sankaranarayanan is an

ardent foodie and a professional chocolatier. She has a degree in Hotel Management, English Literature and Theatre, and loves exploring different cuisines.

Anita Krishnaswamy is President of Global Adjustments and a relocation expert. She has years of experience working with expat clients across the country. www.globaladjustments.com Kate Cathey is an American food and travel writer currently living in Chennai. She is the author of 'Culture Smart!

Colombia: The Essential Guide to Customs and Culture.'

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Culturama’s Advisory Board Members

N Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editor-inChief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu.

Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan.

Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture.

Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for two years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www. mezzemoments.blogspot.com

G Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com

We welcome Beth Chapman on-board! She is an American business management consultant living in Bengaluru. Former President of the city's Overseas Women’s Club, Beth is an Indian culture aficianado.

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Contents On the Cover

54

24 The Stones of India: A Love Story

A report of the latest social event at this happening expat hub.

50 United We Stand

An expat’s pilgrimage to some of India’s architectural marvels.

A cross-cultural perspective on the other side of nepotism in Indian businesses.

India’s People

10 A Thousand Splendid Suns

58 The Special Spectrum

Shraddha Charitable Trust’s work to help young autistic adults in Mumbai.

In conversation with Bunker Roy, educator and social reformer.

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48 India Immersion Centre

51 Impending Dome

46

Postcard from India.

56 Seeing is Believing

Stories from India’s mythology reinterpreted for practical living.

Journeys into India

46 Lone Ranger

An exhilarating journey by road from Manali to Ladakh.

India’s Culture

12 A-Z of India

Some fun facts on India’s most awaited phenomenon, the monsoon!

16 Short Message Service Snippets of Indian culture.

22 In Your Kitchen

Featuring the cuisine of India’s Namboodri community from Kerala.

42 Displayed Desires A picture story of The Friday Market in New Delhi.

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52 One-Pointed Attention The wisdom of one-pointed attention is the magic of life itself.

54 Hand Picked Prayers Looking at the phenomenon of Pujas through expatriate eyes.

Regulars

30 Look Who’s in Town Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in India.

38 Calendars

See what’s going in Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai.

60 Spotlight

A new column featuring India’s biggest influences and events.

62 India Writes

A space for India’s abounding world of literature.

Relocations and Property

64 Tell Us Your Story

Practical advice from Global Adjustments’ relocation expert

66 & 68 Space and the City Property listings across the metros

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In Focus

praveena shivram

Spotlight on an Indian trailblazer

A Thousand Splendid Suns Meet Bunker Roy, educator and social reformer, voted one of Time magazine’s 100 most influential personalities in 2010 for his Barefoot movement that among other things, solar electrifies villages through grandmothers in rural communities

photo G. VENKET RAM

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IN THE autumn of 1966, Sanjit “Bunker” Roy, a student of St Stephen’s College in Delhi and a squash champion at the time, volunteered to raise funds and distribute food to the victims of the famine in Bihar. The word NGO did not exist then, but Roy knew that his calling was social work and he decided to begin his long process of “learning, unlearning and relearning”. In 1972, he set up the Social Work and Research Centre (SWRC), better known as the Barefoot College (www.barefootcollege. org). “The Barefoot College is the only college where the teacher is the learner and the learner is the teacher,” he says in his quiet, measured voice. “The term ‘barefoot’ was originally used in the context of ‘barefoot doctor’ to describe Chinese village residents who were trained to handle the basic health needs of fellow-villagers during the 1960s. In our case, the term ‘barefoot college’ emphasises the organisation’s commitment to the poor and marginalised sections,” he explains.

With a seemingly simple premise of “helping rural communities become self sufficient”, Roy’s barefoot movement

At Barefoot, teachers and students learn with patience and no communication tools. Till now, we have trained 600 grandmothers and not one has let me down.

Because of them, 45,000 houses have been solar electrified.

shows us how profound possibilities could exist within that.

And so, the college has trained rural women in different areas such as solar energy, water, education, health care, rural handicrafts, people’s action, communication, women’s empowerment and wasteland development. If you are wondering why only women, then Bunker says, “Men are untrainable. They are all restless, ambitious, and once they receive a certificate, they leave the village and go to the city. They don’t like training other people, while women are patient, compassionate, and tolerant and can easily train others.” During his TED Talk (http://tinyurl.com/3d7j2md), this is what he had to say about one of the many small million little impacts of Barefoot. “We went to Ladakh … and we asked this woman, ‘What was the benefit you had from solar electricity?’ And she thought for a minute and said, ‘It’s the first time I can see my husband’s face in winter.’” This is Bunker Roy — educator, social reformer, and just quite the miracle maker.

With Barefoot, where did it really begin?

First of all, there can never be an urban solution to a rural problem. To think the solution should come from the top is ridiculous; it should come from below. We need to recognise and respect the skill and knowledge rural people have and work with that. Forty years ago, Barefoot recognised how important that was and we have only been upgrading, developing and building on that, showing them that their knowledge is still relevant today. Maybe it began with our night schools for children who couldn’t go to schools in the morning. At these schools, we concentrated on exposing them to their own knowledge, teaching them to respect it and showing them how they are valuable for their own development. And now, these children are our human resource. I never recruit teachers from the outside.

Our senior staff has been with us for the last 15–20 years, and we are by far the worst paid NGO. How do you teach grandmothers to become solar engineers?

If you are imagining old women as grandmothers, then don’t. In villages, women become grandmothers when they are 35. So the grandmothers we select are between the age of 35 and 50, which is the best age, because, by then, they are grounded in their community, and they are close to the animals, the land and their family. Incidentally, none of them can read and write, so we teach through sign

language and by doing it over and over again by hand, and in six months, they become solar engineers. The 40 women who stay with us on campus come from different parts of the world – India, Africa, South America, and the Middle East. They sit at one table, talk to each other in their own language all the time, even though no one can understand the words. and the only common link between them is that they are all grandmothers. They are constantly chatting and helping each other and it is quite remarkable to see that. At Barefoot, teachers and students learn with patience and no communication tools. Till now, we have trained 600 grandmothers and not one has let me down. Because of them, 45,000 houses have been solar electrified.

Do you think, at its core, leadership is a lonely path? It can get overwhelming at times.

Not at all, as I have a partnership in place. The government of India pays the air fare and six months of training cost for all the women, which includes their boarding and lodging, medical and phone bills. I also have a tie-up with international organisations like UN Women, UNESCO and UNDP who give money for our equipment. So we are well settled.

You are married to an equally socially conscious person — Aruna Roy. With two social activists in the same house, what’s the secret to this marriage?

In India, I am always Aruna Roy’s husband! Well, we fight every day; don’t agree on anything and that’s the secret to our marriage. Ideological fights are good for a marriage. In the 40 years that we have been married, we haven’t spent more than 40 days together at a stretch, so there’s another secret.

What are some of the things you have learnt in this journey at Barefoot?

I have learnt to be patient; I have learnt that rural people have a simple solution for anything. I have learnt to respect — how these women from abject poverty, living on less than one dollar a day, can come and still have so much to share. In the book ‘Future Shock’ by Alvin Toffler, he says, “Illiterate people are not those who can’t read and write, but those who can’t unlearn and re-learn”. At Barefoot, we are constantly learning, unlearning and re-learning. I have been doing this for 40 years and still going strong.

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A to Z of India

Susan Philip

26 facts and more on an Indian theme

Shower Power It’s eagerly awaited by farmers and stock brokers alike and has been described as India’s ‘real finance minister.’ We’re talking of the monsoon!

Basically, it’s a wind that blows from cold to warm regions bringing rain.

It determines the climate of India, and by extension, its prosperity. This bouquet of information is part technical, part advisory and part fun-facts

A

frica: That’s where this awesome phenomenon originates.

The winds begin mildly on the East African coast in March, gather momentum and blow with gusto across the Indian Ocean during June and July, bringing heavy rains to many parts of India.

G

od of Rain: He’s Varun, in the Hindu pantheon. Special prayers are held to propitiate him and ensure normal rains, so that the harvest will be plentiful, and there’s no water shortage.

B

ursting: This is a unique feature of the monsoons. The term refers to the abrupt spike in average rainfall. Come the season, the weather changes dramatically from scorching hot to soaking wet, almost overnight.

C

yclones: They’re part and parcel of the monsoon. Low pressure troughs form in the Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea or the Bay of Bengal and sometimes turn nasty. Rural areas usually bear the brunt of the furious winds, cities are more or less safe. But live wires pose a threat, so take care.

D

oldrums: That’s the name of the equatorial area where the trade winds in the two hemispheres meet. Also known as Inter-tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ), it is a belt of calm.

Without going into technicalities, the ITCZ shifts a little each year, and the shift sets off the south-west monsoon in India.

E

l Nino: This band of warm water that develops off the South American coast has a bearing on how the monsoon behaves in far-away India. Researchers find that the further west the band lies in the Pacific Ocean, the less monsoon rains India gets. When it lies to the east, rainfall is copious.

F

ood Fads: The monsoon blows in its own brand of food. Favourite comfort foods are piping hot kitchdi, a one-dish meal of rice, lentils and vegetables, and the ever-popular chai-pakora (tea and fritters). Drink Masala Chai — tea pepped up with spices – to keep the chills away Indian health systems prescribe plenty of turmeric, ginger, garlic and fenugreek to boost immunity.

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H

The iconic love song ‘Pyar hua, iqrar hua’ from the Hindi movie, Shree 420.

areli: It’s a monsoon-centric festival celebrated in the state of Chhattisgarh. The farming community prays for good crops, and worships farming equipment and cattle.

I

nfections: These are rife during the monsoons. Watch out for water-borne illnesses such as typhoid, cholera and jaundice, and malaria and dengue spread by the ubiquitous mosquito.

Slather on mosquito repellants and drink only boiled or branded packaged water. Avoid fresh salads; opt for soups instead.

J

et Streams: They are a system of upper air winds believed to help establish the monsoons. They give rise to high-pressure and low-pressure areas over north and central India during winter and summer, and influence the flow of the winds.

K

erala: This south-western state is where the monsoon makes landfall. Traditionally, it sets in on June 1, give or take a day or two. A normal monsoon is usually amazingly punctual.

L

ove songs: The rain has inspired many a steamy song-anddance sequence in Indian films. ‘Pyar hua, iqrar hua’ from the movie Shree 420 starring the iconic Raj Kapoor and Nargis is one of the sweetest, while ‘Andhi mazhai megham’ from Kamal Hassan’s Nayagan strikes a different chord.

M

eteorological Department: It goes into overdrive as the monsoon approaches. Predictions need to be made regarding the onset and strength, flood and cyclone warnings have to be issued, and rainfall measured on a day-to-day basis.

N

aming names: The word ‘monsoon’ comes from the Arabic ‘mawsin’ or season. Sailors plying ancient sea trade routes to India calculated the best times to take advantage of the seasonal winds while avoiding storms and gales.

The Pied Crested Cuckoo announces the arrival of the monsoon

Q

uality of monsoons: India’s economy is mainly agrarian and depends heavily on the monsoon for its health. A bad season has a cascading effect on crops, power, industry, stock market and GDP. A good one gives an ‘all is well’ feeling. Weathermen predict a normal monsoon for 2013. Fingers crossed!

R

ain: That’s a given. What is in doubt is the quantity. Too much brings floods and destruction, too little means a drought year. Like Goldilocks’ porridge, it has to be just right.

Sidelight: Authorities in many cities are serious about rainwater harvesting, and it’s paying off.

S The ubiquitous plastic bag becomes handy rainproof headgear!

O

easons of rain: There are two. The south-west monsoon starts in June and goes on till around August in most of India, while the reverse north-east one brings rain in October–November to the eastern coast.

photo: Tobias Schmidt Germany

odles of options: Don’t let the rain dampen your spirits. Bring out the child in you; take a walk in the rain, sail paper boats in the puddles on your porch, organise an impromptu tea-party for your neighbours, get the family together for a session of dumb charades or simply curl up with a good book.

P

ied crested cuckoo: This long-tailed, black and white bird is to the monsoon what the swallow is to the summer. Called chatak in Hindi, it is a migratory bird, and suddenly appears in late May and early June. Migrant Watch is a citizen’s initiative to document its arrival and link it to the monsoon.

Lush green fields after the rain photo: Francois Daniele, France

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A to Z of India

X

pect the unexpected: Floods may leave you marooned and/ or cut off supply lines for essential items such as milk and vegetables. Stock up on emergency provisions. The power is also liable to go off without notice. Buy emergency lamps and candles (don’t forget the matches). Heavy rains may also disrupt transport, and rain holidays, official and unofficial, are common. Budget for these in your business plan.

At the beach, waiting for the rains photo: Tobias Schmidt Germany

T

ravel tips: Get yourself weatherproof luggage, pack rubber footwear, water-resistant make-up and easy-to-dry clothes.

If you’re planning on driving, get your car serviced ahead of the rains, paying special attention to windshield wipers and tyres.

Floods and more, expect the unexpected

Y

photo Uta John, Germany

ore Lore: Indians believe that to see the sun shining through the rain brings you good luck. According to ancient Indian folklore, the trickster fox marries the crow when this happens.

Interestingly, other countries have similar folktales about this weather pattern too.

Umbrellas and other gear from old India photo Omar Khan (www.imagesofasia.com)

U

mbrellas and other gear: Umbrellas may not be of much use by themselves when the monsoon is in full flow, as when the wind is strong, the umbrellas tend to turn outwards. Invest in sturdy raincoats and and rain boots, called gumboots in India.

V

alley of Flowers: This National Park in the state of Uttarakhand is turned into a riot of colours by the monsoon rains. Over 300 varieties of flowers give the Himalayan valley its name.

W

ettest in the world: Mawsynram and Cherapunji, both in the north-eastern state of Meghalaya, have gone down in books of records as having registered the highest measured rainfall.

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The fox and the crow fable

Z

ones that experience monsoons: The phenomenon isn’t unique to the Indian sub-continent. The Asian monsoon brings rain to parts of Australia too! There’s also a North American one that hits central Mexico, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas.

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Short Message Service

Suzanne Mcneill

art Bhil Tradition Of Adivasi Art

Madhya Pradesh al Short cultur snippets for an easily dia digestible In

Photo Courtesy: Tara Books, www.tarabooks.com

textile Chamba Rumal

Himachal Pradesh

A FORM of miniature painting flourished in the 17th century within the Himalayan hill kingdoms of northern India that became known as pahari. These inspired a style of embroidery in the princely Chamba state that translated pahari images to squares of hand-spun, unbleached muslin called rumal (roomaal), meaning ‘kerchief’. Called ‘needle painting’, the drawing would be outlined on the cloth by a pahari painter, then embroidered by young girls and women in silk thread in a wide range of brilliant colours using a double satin stitch that could be viewed from both sides, making the design reversible. The images depicted scenes from mythology and the epics, and were embellished with decorative motifs of birds, animals and flowers. A chamba rumal is an essential part of a bride’s dowry, and larger sizes are hung in temples and homes as a backdrop to the deity.

ADIVASI is a term applied to the ethnic, tribal peoples of India, of whom the Bhil are the country’s second-largest community, found predominantly in central and western India.

Bhil artists tell the stories of the Bhil people, who claim to trace their ancestry to Eklavya, a young prince from a jungle tribe and an archer of exceptional talent who appears as a character in the Indian epic, the Mahabharata. Images and motifs from the natural world, from myth and folklore adorn the walls and ceilings of Bhil houses and are often repainted each year. These are primitive works that reflect the farming, hunting and gathering world of the Bhil, and like much tribal art, are permeated by a spiritual quality. The sun, the moon, rivers, fields and trees, animals and mythological figures populate their works.

Crafts

Athangudi Tiles

Tamil Nadu

pHOTO Debora Zerneri, USA

Photo Courtesy: www.ethnicshopper.com 16

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THE village of Athangudi, near Madurai in Tamil Nadu, has given its name to a style of decorative floor tile handmade by local artisans. Athangudi lies at the heart of the Chettinad region, a community of wealthy traders and businessmen.

The Chettiars built themselves fabulous mansions, which they ornamented with imported glass, marble and tiles that in time became too expensive to repair or replace. Enterprising craftsmen began to make replicas of the imported tiles using local clay in the vibrant colours of India, and to this day the village is a hub of tile production. Colourful pigments are mixed with white cement. This is poured into a patterned mould set within a wooden frame on a glass base to give the tile a smooth surface. The mould is removed, and a thin layer of sand is sprinkled into the frame, which is then filled with clay and dried in the sun.

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Short Message Service

Interpretation

Durga Takes a Ride THE exuberant celebrations that mark West Bengal’s annual Durga Puja climax each year when the many statues of the goddess, which have been erected in every street and village, are paraded through the streets before being immersed in water. Durga, the fearsome warrior goddess, is celebrated for slaying the buffalo-headed demon who had unleashed terror on the heavens and earth. Clay figurines are moulded into idols of the goddess, elaborately decorated, and placed on podiums all over the city to be worshipped every day as part of the lavish festivities. As the festival comes to an end, the idols are displayed on wooden chariots on their final journey to immersion, escorted by chanting and ritual drumbeats, as seen in this picture.

PHOTO Kees Koster, The Netherlands

Tribes of India

Kuruba

words

Hindu vs. Hindi

www.bmarchives.org. BMA/Mission 21, Ref No: C-30.69.013, 1.1.1861

THE Kuruba are a community of pastoral shepherds and agriculturalists who are amongst India’s most ancient and original inhabitants. The Kuruba are predominantly associated with Karnataka but are located across central and southern India in Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra and Tamil Nadu. In prehistoric times, the Kuruba were megalith builders, constructing monuments in stone. The modern-day Kuruba clan includes many urbanised communities, but there are still branches that live simple, semi-nomadic lives within and around the forests of central India. The Jenu (‘honey’) and Kadu (‘forest’) Kuruba cultivate small holdings in the uplands of their ancestral forest lands and gather honey. Many, however, have no land rights and supplement their incomes working on the region’s tea and coffee plantations.

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photo Lee Webb, USA

ONE word refers to the identity of a people, the other to the language they speak. At their root is ‘Hind’, the name for India that goes back at least to the time of Ashoka. Derivations of ‘Hind’ are found in Ancient Arabic (‘al-Hind’ referring to the land of the people who live across the River Indus), Greek (‘Indos’, from which English ‘India’), Hebrew and Chinese texts.

For centuries, ‘Hindu’ was a single, umbrella term used for the followers of the indigenous religious and cultural societies of India, whether they be Jain, Buddhist or followers of Hindusim.

Now ‘Hindu’ defines specifically the religious and cultural identity of followers of Hinduism.

‘Hindi’ is the standardised version of a dialect that was spoken across North India, and was recorded as early as 400 CE. It acquired prestige as the language of the court during the period of the Mughal Empire, when it was known as ‘Urdu’ and following Independence was formalised as a separate language.

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Short Message Service

language

Telugu

WITH over 74 million speakers, according to the 2001 Census of India, Telugu ranks third in the number of speakers of India’s native languages, after Hindi and Bengali. It is a Dravidian language, and is spoken predominantly in the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. The earliest writing that is entirely in Telugu dates back to 575 CE, but it is believed that some words appeared in a first-century BCE anthology of poems, and inscriptions have been found containing Telugu that date back 2,400 years. Until the 20th century, Telugu was written in a formal style that was very different from the everyday spoken language, but a new written standard has been developed based on the modern version. The question, ‘What is your name?’ can be asked in formal Telugu, ‘Mee peru yenty?’, or informal, ‘Nee peru yenty?’

Past influencer

Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan

Chants of India

Making Three Wishes Asato Maa Sad-Gamaya Lead us from the Unreal to the Real Tamaso Maa Jyotir-Gamaya From Darkness to Light Mrtyor-Maa Amrtam Gamaya From Death to Immortality Om Shanti Shanti Shantihi Peace

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PHOTO Deborah Miller, USA

BORN in Andhra Pradesh in 1888, Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan was an eminent academic, philosopher and statesman. His early studies instructed him in Western philosophy, and he applied the disciplines he had learned to the study of Indian religion, seeking to demonstrate that Hinduism was both philosophically coherent and ethically viable. He taught at Mysore and Kolkata Universities, and was invited to teach Comparative Religion at Britain’s University of Oxford from 1936 to 1939. During the second part of his career, Radhakrishnan held high office, including spells working for UNESCO and as India’s Ambassador to the USSR. He was India’s first VicePresident from 1952 to 1962, and then President of India until 1967. He died in 1975, and his birthday, September 5, is celebrated as Teacher’s Day in honour of the profession that was his first love.

THIS mantra encapsulates a simple three-pronged wish to welcome all that is enduring and wish away all that is temporary.

It asks God to lead us away from temporary attachments (to family, possessions and career), from ignorance and self-will, and from the limiting fear of death. The reality we seek is a relationship with the permanent and all-pervading Divine Self in our hearts. It is an ancient hymn from the Brihadaranyaka Upanishad, one of a collection of philosophical texts that reveal the truths that underlie the Hindu religion. ‘Brihadaranyaka’ means ‘a forest of knowledge’ and ‘Upanishad’ means ‘sitting down near’. The knowledge of these texts is said to be gained sitting near a spiritual teacher, who has walked the path and now communicates his wisdom.

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In Your Kitchen

harini sankaranarayan

Understanding an Indian community through their food

lightness of being The Namboodiris of Kerala bring their rich tradition of simplicity dating back to the times of royalty to the table, replete with flavours and stories LAKSHMI’S mother might have been a traditional Namboodiri never leaving her ‘illam’ or household.

Lakshmi, however, has changed the rules. She works in the marketing department of a leading corporate and lives life on her own terms. Ask her what she misses most about her childhood and she will immediately give you a long list. “The tropical green vegetation of Kerala, the lovely wooden and red tiled homes and, of course, the smell of home cooked food!” she says.

The illam in which Lakshmi’s mother, Shanti, lives is a huge compound with small houses within. The pond in their backyard is surrounded by coconut, jackfruit and mango trees. Banana plants dot the periphery. Creepers of pumpkin and yam occupy her backyard. All of these find their way into the breakfast, lunch and dinner in the Namboodiri household.

The Namboodiri community are very strict Brahmins, believed to have migrated into Kerala during the 1st century to aid the king with their priestly advice and to perform religious rituals. Slowly, the Namboodiris also became rich land-owning Brahmins. Their lifestyle, however, did not change much. Women rarely stepped outside their houses and the men were very orthodox in their daily life. Even those Namboodiri men who did not become priests led lives of austerity and prayer.

With an abundance of vegetable available in their backyard, it comes as no surprise that the Namboodiri cooks used them all to advantage. “We cook the pumpkin and bananas in so many different ways. Namboodiris are very good cooks. Some of us have even cooked for kings,” says Shanti with child-like delight and pride.

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The diet is strictly vegetarian, avoiding even onions and garlic. The flavours are mild, usually using cumin, pepper and green chillies for flavouring. Yoghurt and coconut milk are used to tone down the fiery nature of chillies.

Breakfast starts with fluffy soft idlis with coconut chutney flavoured with mustard and green chillies.

Sometimes they may have puttu, a savoury rice crumble made with red rice accompanied by Kadala curry, a gravy with chickpeas. Like most of the southern states, rice dominates the meal. Lunch would be a vegetable from the garden, sautéed and garnished with fresh coconut and chillies, a stew-like vegetable made with either coconut milk (Olan) or yoghurt (Avial). For the crunch in the meal there was always plenty of banana chips and pappadam.

A celebratory meal or sadya was a lot more complicated. There would be at least ten different dishes to go with the rice. The special flavour always came from the fresh coconut oil that is either used as a garnish, as the Italians do with olive oil, or used as a cooking medium. The dessert would have at least two payasams, one made from a thick extract of coconut milk cooked with both lentils and jaggery, and the other made from condensing milk and sugar to which bits of thin rice pancakes called ada is added. Unlike the Western meal, dessert is served as a mid-course rather than at the end of the meal. But for both Shanti and Lakshmi, food is always about the simple flavours hiding beneath the variety, dictating the Namboodiri way of life.

idt, Germany

Schm Photo: Tobias

Did You know?

Recipe Kurukku Kalan (Serves 6) Ingredients Raw green banana: 1 Elephant foot yam: 1/2 cup Beaten thick sour curds: 6 cups or 1/2 ltr (preferably homemade with sour taste) Turmeric powder: 1-1/2 tsp A pinch of red chilli powder Pepper powder: 1 tsp Ghee: 1 tsp (optional) Roasted fenugreek powder: 1/2 tsp (dry roast and powdered) 2 sprigs of curry leaves

Method

Salt to taste Grated coconut: 1 cup Green chillies: 6 or to your tolerance level Cumin seeds: 1/2 tsp

For the seasoning Mustard seeds: 1 tsp Whole dry red chillies: 3 Coconut oil: 1 tsp A few curry leaves

1. Wash and peel the skin of banana and the yam and cut them into thick cubes and set it aside.

2. Beat the yoghurt/curd well and do not add any water and set it aside.

3. Grind the grated coconut, cumin seeds, green chillies with a little yoghurt to a thick paste and keep it aside. Do not add any water while grinding.

4. Dissolve the pepper powder in 1 cup of water and cook the chopped vegetables in pepper water along with turmeric powder and red chilli powder till the water dries and vegetables are completely cooked. Now add the salt and curry leaves and mix well. If using ghee, add it now and combine well.

5. Now add the beaten sour yoghurt, reduce the flame and bring to simmer, stirring occasionally until the gravy is thickened to a semisolid consistency. (Note: when it cools down, it thickens further.)

6. Add the ground coconut mixture, stir well and heat through. Do not overcook the mixture after adding the ground coconut.

7. Remove from the fire and sprinkle the fenugreek powder and mix well; set it aside.

8. In a frying pan, heat the coconut oil and add the mustard seeds. When these start to splutter, add the rest of the seasoning ingredients and fry till the chillies turn dark brown.

9. Pour the seasoning to the Kurukku Kalan and cover the dish for 10—15 minutes.

10. Serve hot with steamed rice and pappadam.

The Namboodris are a matriarchal society with property passing on from mother to daughter.

Traditionally, only the eldest son of the Namboodri household or ‘illam’ was allowed to marry.

The origin of Malayalam as a language is attributed to the Namboodris, who mixed Sanskrit with the local Tamil language.

Note:

Usually, Kurukku Kalan is prepared up to step 6 and can be stored.

Whenever needed, the ground coconut mixture is added, heated and served.

This dish is served typically as very thick gravy. One can also serve the kalan in a more liquid consistency by not allowing the yoghurt to thicken too much.

Remember to smear a few drops of cooking oil on your palms before you cut the elephant foot yam as skin protection

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COVER STORY

Kate Cathey

A comprehensive narrative on India

The Stones of India A Love Story If the great stones of India could speak, then we would hear fascinating accounts of history, dig deep into the many secrets, and listen in raptures to some extraordinary stories of love and life. But they do speak, only if we care to listen

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The Taj Mahal's beauty captured in silhoutte against the setting sun

YOU can’t come to India without seeing the Taj Mahal.

Just the name commands reverence. Many say it is the most beautiful building in the world. This one building draws close to three million people a year, across vast cultural and geographic borders, to make the journey to be in its presence. A trip to see the Taj Mahal is a pilgrimage — a long, slow journey for deeper meaning. It is calling me as well. The map for my Indian pilgrimage has now been drawn.

With my best travel companions, my husband and our four-year-old son, we have set out to hear the stories these great stones of India have to tell. We feel lucky; living in India we know we can return many times so that when they speak to us we can hear them, if we are quiet, and if we listen.

Whispers from the Taj The great stones of India tell many stories. The opulent palaces built by the Maharajas remind us of the ambitious achievements of mighty kings at the height of their power, and their lavish tastes. The Hindu temples of South India tell us of a creative, whimsical and deeply spiritual people.

Some scream self-indulgence; others whisper humility.

Some, like the forts built by the Danish, Dutch and British in the name of commerce and colonialism, show muscle. And my favourites, like the Taj Mahal, tell a story that we all want to hear, a story about love.

The most profound architecture hits all of the marks — location, form, message, materials, mood, innovation, craftsmanship — and then, does more. Great architecture captures the human imagination. These great structures endure through the centuries because of their timeless message. They evoke emotional responses in us; they make us feel.

The Taj Mahal does just that. Shah Jahan, the great Mughal king at the height of the empire, promised his wife that he would build a spectacular monument as a parting gift where she would be laid to rest after her death.

The resulting building, some poetically say, captures the essence of a woman. She is pure beauty, perfection. The design is voluptuous, the decoration strong yet delicate.

Her white carved marble façade is like lace — her veil.

Like a jewel, her walls reflect her changing moods with the changing light of the day. Beauty, devotion, love — it is a fairy tale. The Taj Mahal is a fulfillment of a promise by a husband to his wife — an expression of never-ending love.

Promises of Love It was a promise that drew me to Kapaleeshwarar (kapaa-leesh-wa-rar) Temple. I went to witness a wedding — the divine marriage of the gods, Kapaleeshwarar and Karpagambal (kar-pa-gaam-baal). Once a year during the Tamil month of Panguni, (March/April), the temple explodes with zealous merrymaking during its ten-day annual festival, Panguni Utsavam. During the festival, hundreds

PHOTO armando bruck, brazil

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COVER STORY

of thousands of people crowd the temple to be close to the gods. On the eighth day they are carried through the streets in wooden chariots to mingle with the people.

The wedding, held always on the evening of the full moon, is performed on an open stage for all of the pilgrims to see. The figures of Kapaleeshwarar and Karpagambal stand tall facing the crowd, draped with white jasmine and pink roses in full bloom. When the frenzied drums are quieted the ceremony begins. Priests perform an intricate ritual where vows of eternal love are exchanged. With the eruption of horns, the celestial marriage is complete, the guests thrilled to be a part of the divine union.

Throughout the year, we have visited the temple many times, usually in the late afternoon when light on the temple becomes soft and golden. When we arrive we admire the towering gopuram, the carved entrance gate that soars into the sky. With my son high up on dad’s shoulders, we try to pick out the sculptures of the gods and recall their epic tales. We wander through the courtyard slowly, taking it all in — the colours, the mood. It swirls around us. Once inside, we become a part of it.

Prayers in Stone I made a pilgrimage to Madurai to make a prayer about love, the city believed to be the site of the divine wedding of Meenakshi (mee-naak-shi) and Sundereshwar (sunda-resh-war). At the centre of the city is the Meenakshi Amman Temple, dedicated to the female deity Meenakshi, worshipped for her qualities of beauty, fertility and devotion.

Ancient Tamil poets have compared her temple to a lotus flower, a powerful symbol in Indian mythology and culture.

The temple, like a lotus, exhibits perfection in its symmetry.

The temple is the centre of the lotus flower — its four gopurams fan out symmetrically in the four directions to the concentric streets of Madurai like petals.

It’s rare that a goddess is the primary deity of a temple, which may be one reason why this ancient temple has remained so popular. Meenakshi’s power attracts women from all over the world to her temple. They come to pray for many things — strength in their family and in marriage, for fertility, for love. Families congregate around the airy halls of the temple tank to introduce prospective couples. Newlyweds make a wish for children by tying a tiny wooden cradle to the wishing tree. In the main interior courtyard of the temple, many say a prayer to Hanuman, the god believed to keep couples together, before visiting Meenakshi’s shrine. And every evening they witness the traditional rituals of the divine couple. Once a year, in April or May, an estimated one million people flock to the temple for the annual re-enactment of the divine wedding of Meenakshi and Sundereshwar.

I had heard about the evening ritual performed here, a bedtime ritual between husband and wife. Just before the temple closes, the priests ceremoniously remove the statues of Meenakshi and Sundereshwar from their individual shrines. The divine couple is carried through the temple in a procession to their shared bedroom, where they are left to stay until morning. The couple is prepared for bed; even Meenakshi’s jewels are removed for comfort. They are given privacy to consummate their vows, to strengthen their bond in marriage and their everlasting love.

Love in the Time of Power It was love that lured many men to India’s shores; the Romans, Arabs, French, Danish, Dutch and British all came

The towering silence of the Kapaleeshwarar Temple

PHOTO olya morvan, ukraine 26

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COVER STORY

The expansive power of the Tranquebar Fort

Traveller’s Tips PHOTO rod hudson, uk

in search of the exotic tastes of India. The Roman Empire’s lust for black pepper led them to India’s Malabar Coast in search of the precious ‘black gold’. Pepper became so valued to the Romans that it was used as a form of currency as cocoa did under the Aztec rule in Mexico. And pepper’s fiery appeal enticed the Portuguese, Dutch and Danish too, where they engaged in a frenzied race to gain control of the spice routes to Europe. The goal — bring massive quantities of black pepper back home with them to satisfy Europe’s insatiable desires, and sell it of at enormous profits.

Drive six rambling hours south of Chennai through rice fields and grazing water buffalo and the road will lead you to Fort Dansborg, commanding the coastline from its seaside post in the town of Tharangambadi. In 1620, the Danes set up the Danish East India Company and made their attempts to establish a colony in India. They named the town Tranquebar and built the muscular fort that became the centre of the Danish colony for the next 200 years. Behind these impenetrable walls the Danish put their plans into play to monopolise the trade and exportation of India’s hottest commodity, black pepper.

These thick ochre walls tell the story of a passion that changed the course of history. The Danes ultimately failed in their attempts at setting up a colony in India and never were able to gain control of the pepper trade, but their fort and the restored governor’s mansion next door stand as powerful reminders of Europe’s unrelenting appetite for the exotic. If you stand close to the fort’s fading walls they will tell about a two-hundred-year love affair with spice.

These places keep calling me back to them. And there are so many more on the list that have something important to say. The most powerful speak of universal ideas in a language we can all understand. Their ancient stones reveal something new every time we visit, yet always hold a bit back to discover on our return. I want to hear all that they will tell me, so I will go often. I will be very quiet, and I will listen.

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Taj Mahal: Peak season is October—March when temperatures are coolest, while crowds are heaviest, yet air quality and visibility can be poor owing to burning debris in the surrounding villages.

Low season is April—September when crowds are lighter but temperatures soar. Don’t miss the view of the Taj Mahal from the great site in Agra, the Red Fort.

Kapaleeshwarar Temple, Chennai: 6:00 AM — 1:00 PM and 4:00 PM — 8:00 PM. Brahmostavam, the annual festival falls during the Tamil month of Panguni, mid-March to mid-April, and varies every year. Don’t miss the Rathotsavam, the Car or Chariot Festival on the seventh day, the Arupathumoovar on the eighth day, and the Thirukalyanam on the tenth day. Arrive early, around 3:00 PM, wear a hat and comfortable shoes, and bring lots of water.

Meenakshi Amman Temple, Madurai: 5:00 AM — 12:30 PM and 4:00 PM — 10:00 PM. The wedding ceremony is part of the Chithirai Tiruvizha Festival held in April or May, and varies every year, which also includes a car festival and a coronation ceremony. Spicejet flies the one-hour flight daily.

Don’t miss a visit to what remains of the Thirumalai Palace when you are there.

Fort Dansborg, Tharangambadi: Drive from Chennai, overnight in Pondicherry and continue on the East Coast Road for a beautiful drive until Tharangambadi. Also of interest is the original governor’s mansion of the Danish colony that has been restored by Neemrana Hotels and now is the place to stay, ‘Bungalow on the Beach’, conveniently next door to the fort.

PHOTOs L to R: Rod Hudson, UK; Alan Dougans, Australia; Rafael Nobre, Brazil

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Look who's in Town bengaluru

This India Picture From the beaches in Goa and Kerala to the deserts of Rajasthan, American Deborah Miller tells us why India is frame worthy

Deborah Miller at her favourite spot, Sankey Tank

“INDIA is a photographer’s paradise, especially for street photography. It’s where life happens in India. Back home, in New York, life happens behind closed doors,” says Deborah Miller, who has been living in Bengaluru since 2009. She continues, even as we look through her stunning images of India, and says, “I had been coming to India since 1992 and

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the one thing I took away from my visits here is that India has many layers.” We know now that this is the soul that speaks through her photographs. Deborah, who runs a small travel agency in the city, tells us why India appeals to the inner voice of her camera.

Snap This Any place in Rajasthan is a photographer’s dream; you cannot take a bad photo here. It doesn’t matter what type of photographer you are — wildlife, landscape, people, street, architecture — you can find it all in Rajasthan.

Another favourite place is Varanasi. You can’t help but experience the devotion and sincerity of what surrounds you; all your senses come alive in the holy atmosphere.

Don’t miss any opportunity to photograph a festival, whether it be a local festival or a bigger one like the yearly Pushkar Camel Fair, Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai, Durga Puja in Kolkata or the Maha Kumbh Mela that happens once every 12 years in Allahabad.

Trigger Tips Most of the time, Indians will insist you take their photo. If you want to take someone’s photo, engage with them first either by smiling, talking or placing your hands in Namaste before taking the photo. The photos will show the connection you have made with the subject. The only “don’t” when photographing in India, or anywhere for that matter, is to not be disrespectful. If someone doesn’t want their photo taken — don’t take it.

Memory Keeper My most memorable experience happened while photographing in Jaisalmer. I was walking down the narrow alleyways when this young woman asked me into her home.

The reason she invited me in was to see her newly purchased refrigerator. She was so proud of this refrigerator that it took centrestage in her living area. I photographed her and some of her family members standing around their newest family member. There was such a sense of dignity and pride in this woman, the refrigerator was just an outward symbol of what she was experiencing on the inside.

When in the United States For those wanting to visit the United States, my best advice is to decide what is most important to see, photograph and experience — the major cities (New York, Washington DC, San Francisco, New Orleans), the national parks (Yosemite, Grand Teton, Zion), natural wonders (Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Sedona), snow (New England, Colorado, Alaska), beach (Florida, Hawaii), ethnic areas (Native American Reservations, Cajun & Bayou), and small rural towns scattered throughout America.

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Look who's in Town delhi

Marcel and Ellen strike a pose at Hampi, Karnataka

Travel Unravel Swiss couple Marcel and Ellen Hungerbuehler give us the inside perspective of travelling in India FOR Marcel and Ellen Hungerbuehler, travel is second nature. If you went by Marcel’s designation – COO at the Delhi International Airport – then you would probably think such a posting naturally lends itself to travelling. But if you go by their penchant for adventure and enthusiasm to explore, then you would realise the designation is probably a result of this inborn calling. Whether shopping in Old Delhi or exploring Jodhpur or travelling down South India to Hampi, the couple has seen a lot of India in the last six years. Having lived in Bengaluru for four years before moving to Delhi in 2011, Marcel and Ellen are the travel experts with a bag full of memories. “We are always amazed by the warmth and hospitality of the people we encounter. A recent experience we cherish is spending Holi in Jodhpur with friends from Switzerland. We mingled and danced with the crowd and were totally covered with colours from top to toe!” says Ellen. Armed with the three must-haves in their back pack — “water bottle, Swiss army knife and antidiarrhoea tablets” are Marcel’s wise words of advice — they share other valuable tips on travelling in India with us.

Indo-Swiss Connection In Switzerland, most people use public transport; the train for longer distances and the bus or tram within a city. There is a wellorganised public transport network, making the services punctual

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and reliable. We avoid taxis as they are too expensive.

In India, it is best to cover long distances by flight. The aviation industry has undergone remarkable changes after private airlines were allowed to operate (1992) and the privatisation of the four metro airports. Today, because there is healthy competition, the airlines offer a dense network of flights and the services are reliable, punctual and reasonably priced. However, a true travel experience in India must include train journeys.

Travel Tips We plan all our holiday itineraries ourselves, including hotel bookings. We book flights, trains and hotels online. Hint: Plan your travels well in advance, especially to the famous tourist destinations, to get better air fares and confirmed reservations on the train.

Travelling in Switzerland Take your cash and credit card! Jokes apart, do carry a camera, a Swiss Travel Pass that will allow unlimited travel by public transport, your hiking boots and outdoor clothing. Be adventurous and plan the trip yourself. Visit www.myswitzerland.com and you will find lots of suggestions: the top attractions, outdoor activities, cultural events, city breaks, family vacations and more.

Global Health City Wellness Series

Banish That Crick!

Dr. Sunder, HOD of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation, Global Hospitals, gives us simple tips to keep Computer– Related Injuries at bay

Computer–Related Injury In the past decade, there has been a tendency for computer users to develop a painful, debilitating condition known as repetitive stress injury, also called computer-related injury (CRI). This condition is caused by incessant work in a static posture, with high repetitive actions, such as typing on a

keyboard. CRI can cause damage to muscle tendons or soft tissues and can disrupt work and domestic life.

CRI Symptoms Watch out for the following symptoms of CRI: Pain, burning, numbness, stiffness, or tingling sensation in the fingers, arms, shoulder, neck or back A constant need to stretch or massage your arms Heaviness or weakness in hands or forearms Visual strain or fatigue while working Trembling hands while opening doors, holding newspapers, using a comb, or even holding a tea cup Controlling CRI Proper lifestyle modification, an exercise regime and ergonomic furniture helps in controlling CRI. A good seating posture at work is when the feet are rested on the ground, the top of the monitor being at around the height of the eyes, the keyboard tray at elbow height with the elbow at 90 degrees and the forearms parallel to the ground. The mouse should also be at the height of the keyboard.

Follow these Dos Keep body straight and sit well in the chair.

Relax your shoulders and keep head and neck in neutral position.

Rest your wrists and hands when not typing.

Let your hands float over the keyboard.

Alter your posture from time to time.

Centre yourself to the monitor and keyboard.

Perform simple stretching exercises in front of the computer.

Disclaimer: This series aims at understanding the nature of the disease. It is essential to consult a doctor for eliminating the problem.

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Look who's in Town chennai

Bonjour Chennai

Olivia and Jerome Gasser enjoying a weekend out

Frenchwoman Olivia Gasser takes us on a tour of the happening entertainment options in Chennai STAYING “open minded” and never “judging a book by its cover” has helped Olivia Gasser from France find the best side of Chennai in the last eight months with husband, Jerome Gasser, the Controlling Manager at NAPC. She laughs at the time when they went for a Tamil movie organised by their driver. “We had a fantastic experience, even though we did not understand anything! We enjoyed the outdoor experience, people singing and dancing all along, that was truly like a second show during the film!” Join Olivia as she discovers the delightful facets of the Cultural Capital of India.

From Paris with Love I’ve lived in Paris for four years and it was a very exciting, beautiful city! A must-visit is the ‘Musée Jacquemart André’ museum, an opulent and beautiful mid-19th century residence in Paris. I’m a huge fan of classical music and dance ballet and at least once a month I went to the ‘Opéra Garnier’ opera house. Now, in Chennai, it’s obviously different; however, I still continue to live my passion of culture, music and dance in a different way.

Going Places Do one of India’s favourite entertainment options: see an Indian movie at the theatre! Bollywood and Kollywood movies (my favourite), are definitely a great experience. Enjoy the lovely songs and feel the excitement of the public, much more interesting than the story, perhaps!

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Enjoy a music or a dance show or participate in social events organised in the city. Places such Music Academy or cultural clubs in T-Nagar or Mylapore are worth a visit. Check the morning newspaper for the day’s show, and then just go and enjoy the show. It’s a good way of getting to know Indian culture better. Or take part in some great social events organised at the India Immersion Centre at Global Adjustments. I definitely loved the one where we were dressed like an Indian bride for a fashion show!

Fun Tips Never say no before trying something yourself. Chennai offers a lot of variety and some of them will fit very well with your idea of fun, even though other people might reject it. And take your time! If you are always in a rush, you will not enjoy as the Indians do and you will lose out on a lot of things.

When in Paris Keep an open mind and be ready for any experience. Make sure you book your tickets for shows / events at least a couple of weeks in advance. If people don’t sing, dance, smile or move from their seats during a performance, it is not because they don’t like what they are watching, it’s because they feel comfortable in their seats! Feel free to walk all over the streets and do not hesitate to push the doors; you will discover the city with another point of view, maybe the best.

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Look who's in Town mumbai

House Talk Restored Art Deco find from Chor Bazaar

Brit Julia Smith lets us in on her exciting finds in home furnishing destinations in the bustling financial capital of India, Mumbai

A SPARSELY furnished apartment set off Julia Smith on the hunt for the best home furnishings in Mumbai. “I started becoming a bit of a Mumbai expert when I started documenting my shop finds on my blog (BombayJules) while attempting to decorate our apartment,” she says, and looking at her tastefully done up apartment, we totally believe the expert has arrived. Leaving behind a long career in financial management in the United Kingdom, Julia accompanies her husband, who is the managing director of a consumer magazine in the city.

She volunteers at the Foundation for Mother and Child Health, an NGO that focuses on health and malnutrition in pregnant mothers and children, and after a year in the city of dreams, Julia says, “I love being in Mumbai and I haven’t looked back since the day I got here.”

Top Three Spots I have a passion for old pieces and so my favourite place to shop for furniture has to be Chor Bazaar (and in particular Mutton Street). Here, it is possible to spend hours hunting down original antique colonial furniture and all manner of knickknacks at competitive prices. Another suggestion is Magnolia Home Furnishings (3/C, Hansraj Pragji Warehousing, LN Pappan Marg, Dr E Moses Road, Worli Naka, Mumbai). It has a younger vibe than some of the big colonial furniture stores of Mumbai

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Julia at her favourite haunt in Chor Bazaar

and the stock is noticeably unhomogenised and reasonably priced. By contrast, the Western style store Pure Living (Phoenix Market City in Kurla West) is a place where you can find smart contemporary home accessories.

Bargain Tips When shopping in Chor Bazaar, take plenty of water and don’t go when it’s very humid. The stores can be very narrow and stuffy and you will exhaust yourself after a short time.

And, haggle, haggle, haggle! Some say you should end on a price that is about a third of the opening offer but as a Westerner, I never seem to be that successful! However, you will find that delivery is usually free and immediate — which is a real bonus and is something that is rare back in the United Kingdom.

When in the United Kingdom For Indians setting up home in the United Kingdom, my top three recommendations would be Next (next.co.uk) where you will find home furnishings with a contemporary look at reasonable prices; John Lewis (johnlewis.com) where the wide choice of styles and prices makes this the nation’s favourite department store; and IKEA (ikea.com) for its huge, exciting range of vibrant furniture, bedding, kitchen utensils and dining room accessories, and so on.

designstore@globaladjustments.com

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CALENDAR

events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across the cities of Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs. For more such events, log on to www.culturama.in

DANCE & MUSIC

Songs & Stories – New Delhi

Krishna: Dance Show – Bengaluru

Date: June 7

Date: June 9

Time: 1830h

Time: 1800h

Venue: India International Centre (IIC), # 40, Max Mueller Marg, Lodhi Estate, New Delhi

Venue: Chowdiah Memorial Hall, Gayathri Devi Park Extension, Vyalikaval, Malleshwaram, Bengaluru

Aalaap, a Chennai-based performing arts initiative presents, ‘Texts and Textures: Navarasas (or nine emotions) in Mahabharata through songs and stories’.

This 70-minute innovative performance features renowned storyteller, V. R. Devika, and classical Indian vocalist, Sushma Somasekharan. Each of the magical nine stories will capture an emotion that will then be reinterpreted in music. Entry is free, mail aalaap.concepts@gmail.com or call +91-9840792782 for more details.

A dance production by well-known danseuse and actor, Shobana, ‘Krishna’ is about Lord Krishna and the philosophy he stood for. In this production, Krishna is seen donning different roles — faithful son to his mother, Devaki; sincere advisor to his brethren, the Yadavas; wise teacher to princes telling them to mend their warring and bickering ways and opt for a more disciplined way of life; and eternal charmer. Tickets available at www.indianstage.in

Musical Performance – New Delhi Date: May 17 to August 18 Time: 1200h Venue: Kingdom of Dreams, Sector 29, Gurgaon, NCR Delhi Kingdom of Dreams, the entertainment destination, presents a spectacular show, ‘Mana – A Cirque Spectacle from France’ that will be on for three months. The show visits India after successful trips to the United States, Japan and Thailand. The music and dialogues are a mix of French and English and it narrates the story of creation with the Gods of air, water, earth and fire. Book your tickets on www.bookmyshow.com

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CALENDAR

events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across the cities of Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs. For more such events, log on to www.culturama.in

WORKSHOPS & EVENTS

Workshop for Children – New Delhi

Photography Workshop – Bengaluru

Date: Till June 14

Date: June 15 to 16

Time: 0930h

Time: 0930h to 1800h

Venue: India Habitat Centre, Lodhi Road, New Delhi

Venue: Toehold Seminar Hall, Jayanagar 4T Block, Bengaluru

Cynosure India will conduct a workshop for children in theatre diction and character development. ‘Speak Up’ will train children aged 10 to 12 years in the importance of character development, voice exercises, breathing techniques, music and movement. Call 011-24682001 for more details.

Noted wildlife and travel photographer, Sachin Rai, will conduct a workshop on the basics of photography.

The workshop will train beginners in exposure, focus, composition, sharpness and more. Those who have a camera could bring it along to benefit better, although it is not mandatory. Registrations are open at www.toehold.in.

Annual Coastal Cleanup – Chennai Date: June 16 Time: 0600h to 2100h Venue: 15 km from Marina beach till Injambakkam Chennai Trekkers Club will have the annual Chennai Coastal Cleanup project to clean a 15-km stretch of the beach.

Individuals and groups of volunteers can participate. More than 2,000 volunteers participated last year and the drive won the Limca Book of Records for the fastest cleanup.

The aim of the project is to send a strong message of environmental awareness and preserve the natural heritage of the city. Visit www.chennaitrekkers.org for more details.

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CALENDAR

events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across the cities of Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs. For more such events, log on to www.culturama.in

WORKSHOPS & EVENTS

Book Craft and Artisanship Exhibition – Chennai

Tiny Toes Children’s Workshop – Chennai

Date: Till June 29

Date: June 17

Time: 1000h to 1700h

Venue: Pappadam, 21, (Old No. 8) Chittaranjan Road, Teynampet, Chennai

Venue: Tara Book Building, # 9, CGE Colony, Off Kuppam Beach Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Chennai Tara Books is exhibiting the secrets of Tara Books’ now world-famous handmade bookmaking process. Tara Books will host the artisans who help create the book from various states of India, thus promoting traditional art forms of India. Visit www.tarabooks.com or call 04442601033 for more details.

Tiny Toes and Papaadam will hold their fourth annual workshop, this time on the theme of music and movement.

The programme is open for children in the age group of 6 to 30 months. It is designed to promote the joys of reading, moving and singing to very young children by parents or caregivers. There is also a programme for 3- to 5-year-olds on book reading and other fun activities. Call 044-42012262 for more details.

ART & EXHIBITION Art Show – Chennai Date: June 10 to 25 Time: 1100h to 1900h Venue: Art Houz, #41, Kasturi Rangan Road, Chennai Internationally acclaimed artist Chelian will exhibit his works at the venue. The exhibition includes landscapes, abstracts, paintings of Lord Ganesha and Buddha, his famous knife painting, and more. On the 15th, the exhibition will host an exclusive musical evening with saxophone artiste Raja. For more details, call 044-24992173.

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CALENDAR

spaces

Featuring interesting cultural spaces in your city

KNOW YOUR CITY

Jehangir Art Gallery, Mumbai

Chennai Trekking Club, Chennai

Located in the ‘art district’ of the Fort area in Mumbai, Jehangir Art Gallery is one of the historic landmarks of the city. The gallery has modern halls that are well equipped for showcasing contemporary visual arts. Art appreciation courses are also held at the gallery for laymen, aimed at building the rapport between artists and the public.

Look out for the annual exhibition of the gallery titled ‘Monsoon Art Show’. Visit www.jehangirartgallery.com for more details.

The Chennai Trekking Club (CTC) is a non-profit volunteer-based group that has been around for almost a decade, organising weekend outdoor events and treks throughout the year. CTC has programmes tailormade for beginners and experienced trekkers alike. Free presentations and workshops on various topics such as map reading and navigation are also held periodically by them. Visit www.chennaitrekkers.org for more details.

India International Centre, New Delhi

Smriti Nandan Cultural Centre, Bengaluru

A cultural institution set up to promote understanding between different communities of the world, the India International Centre (IIC) is considered a haven for arts, cultural events, conferences and more. The centre also has a well-stocked library and is known for its varied calendar of events. The IIC also provides hostel rooms for members with a view of beautiful gardens, a tea lounge and refreshment areas to entertain guests. Visit www.iicdelhi.nic.in for more details.

A non-commercial centre dedicated to the arts, Smriti Nandan is an organisation committed to creating opportunities for understanding traditional Indian culture. Set amidst landscaped gardens, in the heart of bustling Bengaluru, Smriti Nandan conducts a range of cultural programmes related to spirituality, theatre, poetry reading, film appreciation, craft and music. Visit www.smritinandan.org for more details.

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Picture Story

Marcel von Mourik

Where images speak a thousand words

I was attracted by this passing vendor selling sweet cookies, especially as you can see how it is baked on the oven plates.

displayed desires

THERE are many famous markets in New Delhi with supplies for the local population for their daily needs.

However, this market is particularly different from the others. Every Friday, just one street behind the Hyatt Hotel, vendors occupy both sides of the long stretch of the road, while regular traffic rearranges itself around this lively market. Vendors begin to arrive in the early afternoon to set up their stalls, with countless trucks driving in to deliver fresh fruits and vegetables from the farmhouses. Around 4 PM, the market officially opens and within minutes it is crowded. Strolling around makes your mouth water with the smell of spices and freshly cooked food. At sunset, even the sun seems to favour the market as it is bathed in beautiful light.

A vendor proudly displays his fresh jackfruit, ginger, capsicum and green chillies, while preparing his gas light for the evening.

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Salesmen still preparing their stall with all kinds of colourful household items.

It’s mouth watering standing in front of this spice stall and smelling the spread of Indian aromas.

Bunches of fresh farmhouse vegetables ready to be cooked!

The beautiful colours of fabrics are always amazing and catch my eye all the time.

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Same Difference

Team Culturama

IF YOU were an eagle and soared high above India’s topography, then you might be forgiven, just might be, if you mistook this sea of traffic for anything other than what it is. It would just mean you haven’t been in India long enough, and by that we mean around five minutes. Traffic in India has often been described with equal parts disgust and awe where the jostle of cars, buses, vans, autos, tempos, cycles, motorbikes, people, roadside vendors, dogs, cows, goats, elephants, horses is like an intricate dance and Indians seem to be born with that natural rhythm. A look at this picture and an ‘eagle-view’ seems tempting, right?

Photo : Isaa Sayegh Sandrine, France

Into the Madding Crowd

Celebrating the obvious and the not-so-obvious contrasts of India

During India’s relentless summer months, most people head to her many hill stations for a respite from the heat. It looks like, from this picture, that most Indian ‘homes’ had the same idea too. Don’t be surprised to see a burst of concrete amidst India’s beautiful mountains that add an unmistakable layer to the landscape.

Never underestimate the dynamism of the humble brick and stone as precarious inclines and dangerous cliffs become perfunctory obstacles in the Indian mason’s hands. And really, when it comes to the powerful reach of real estate or the even powerful ambition of humanity, can the mountain compete?

Photo : Galina Zagumennova, Russia

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Seeing India

Ian Watkinson

Travelling around India with an expat

Lone Ranger Travelling by road from Manali to Ladakh can be exhilarating, exhausting, precarious and powerful, much like its changing landscape, with its many moods and temperaments, making this a journey from one soul to another – that of the land to your own EARLY June in Manali and the day begins cold and dark, long before the twinkle of dawn. Climbing the steep hairpin road, the early morning rush of vehicles wends its way up to the high passes. The treacherous road soon becomes almost difficult to navigate with mud and slush; walls of snow taller than a man suddenly loom out of the diminishing darkness and the air becomes dizzy, thin and cold as the green pine and cedar of Himachal Pradesh recede into the past.

Snow, ice and brittle rock fill the space to the horizon as Rohtang La Pass is traversed; the winding strip of road, a river of mud from the snow rushing to feed the rivers below.

Descending into the valleys of Lahaul Spiti, a vast tranquil beauty is unveiled with the sun sparkling on the angular glaciers cascading from the peaks. Meadows of yellow kingcups and miniature bright purple iris dot the tight grassy blanket on the crags, tokens of nature’s ability to carefully nurture the delicate

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and beautiful as well as the unforgiving towering mountains.

The icy emerald rivers of the Chandra and Bhaga Rivers froth into their confluence below, a violent wrestling match etching deep valleys into the geology. This river becomes the great Chenab in Kashmir, one of the tributaries of the mighty Indus.

The alpine meadows of Lahaul Spiti are astonishingly beautiful — long sweeping valleys of green peppered with smart Swiss-style houses, shiny corrugated roofs shimmering in the warm sun. Onwards from the dustbowl town of Keylang, the terrain rapidly becomes more inhospitable, climbing out of the comforting green valleys to a harsher, barren landscape which possesses a serene yet menacing beauty. Herds of goats scratch sparse clumps of shrub from the shale, small tarns hang in valleys, their water sheeted with ice. At 5,000 metres the fortress of the Great Himalaya opens to reveal Baralach La Pass, overwhelming views of snow-clad jagged

giants brood over the winding road twisting higher into the snow. Lungs screaming for oxygen like overworked bellows, dizziness, headache and an uncertain balance herald the minor symptoms of altitude sickness.

Gone is the green of Lahaul Spiti, now the great youth of the Zanskar Mountains predominate, growling, adolescent and rebellious. Greys and rustic browns in layered textures erupt from valley floors, laminates of young geology folded all around like crumpled carpet by the violence of their creation.

Turquoise rivers engrave their beds and slice like anemic blue acid through the rock, the only movement but for wind here on this barren high desert plain. The dimensions and scale of tumbling valleys and sheer mountains are impossible to evaluate until the winding road, like a charcoal mark on a painting, becomes visible beneath. The vastness of this moonscape vision compresses like a diorama, for this is jawdropping beauty. At the valley campsite at Sarchu, still at

nearly 4,000 metres above sea level, exhaustion prevails, and any kind of excessive movement induces dizziness and nausea.

A few kilometres away, at the Indian army camp, transient visitors suffering more dangerous consequences of altitude sickness seek advice from the only doctor in the area, as from here there are three more very high passes over the Zanskar

peaks before entering the Ladakh valley and symptoms will get worse again.

At Nakeela Pass, the road snakes into the distance, a thin bootlace peppered with wisps of dust from slow-moving trucks.

Lumbering, diesel-belching coloured dots, they climb over the pass and down again to the breathtaking Lachlung La Pass, again at nearly 5,000 metres. Here the valley walls close oppressively, sleeping guards on watch over eternal secrets; shapes and statues carved ornately from sedimentary rock by the incessant wind dominate the landscape. These mysterious giant chess pieces scatter at random as the road settles onto the endless Moray plains, a wide, flat sandy plateau walled by craggy ranges and populated by nomadic Ladakis and Zanskaris. These herdsmen with their turquoise and coral and braided hair race wild horses along the plain, manes free as the wind, dust and sand in their wake, spirals of smoke from their round yurt homes absorbed by the vast blue above. The nomads bring their yaks here in the brief summer to enjoy the sweet high pasture grass before winter engulfs all again.

Heads of inquisitive marmots pop up in the shifting sand, and scamper shyly back into burrows. After 50 km, the road climbs again steeply to the final pass, Tanglang La. Flashes of colour dance with vivid passion in the brittle wind; prayer flags placed on a Buddhist chorten at the high pass by transient travellers, certain that their prayers of ‘om mani padme hum’ will be sent to all corners of the world from this tranquil, inhospitable place under cobalt sky on the roof of the world.

On the other side, the sweeping expanse of the Indus Valley finally emerges at Upshi and finally Ladakh settles into place.

Green fields and poplar and willow trees grace the fertile banks of the great rivers, protected by the Ladakh and Karakoram ranges to the north and the Zanskar and Himalayan ranges to the south. Swelling quickly as it flows westwards, the swirling waters picking up the snow melt on the way. Buddhist prayer flags crisply flutter, maroon-clad happy lamas smile, small garden plots are nurtured, sweet wood smoke scents the crisp air, handsome chickens noisily claim the day, and the wheel of life keeps turning in an atmosphere of peace. For across the great mountain roof of the world is a timeless paradise, where empathy with the magic of the moment is more important than money. Let us hope it stays that way.

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India Immersion Centre Connecting the world to India

The King and I

Eight expatriates mirror the pose of Lord Rama’s coronation ceremony

While most birthdays are celebrated over cakes, we celebrated Lord Rama’s with friends from across the world over a traditional Indian summer cooler!

WHEN expatriates from eight countries come together to celebrate Lord Rama’s birthday, it has to be a happening event. Hosted at the India Immersion Centre (IIC), recently, the Ramanavami Coffee Morning saw expatriates revelling in the stories of Rama’s birth, valour, generosity and other interesting snippets from the Indian epic, Ramayana.

Stories about the life of Lord Rama are all-time favourite mythological stories among children across the country and it wasn’t any different with this enthusiastic audience either. They avidly listened to why Rama is revered in India as the ideal son, compassionate human being and a just king. This led to an interactive session of favourite childhood stories from across cultures, and some lively singing and chanting.

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It was also an occasion for expatriates to find new friends over sweetened paanagam, a cooling drink made from jaggery, and spiced buttermilk. A live demonstration on how to make this summer-friendly drink was definitely one of the highlights of the morning.

The Ramanavami Coffee Morning was a small step in global friendship, with friends from different countries joining hands with warmth in their hearts for India. The event drew a lot of positive responses from the participants.

Susanne Frittrang said, “This was a lovely morning,” while Teri Donaldson was all praise for the paanagam. The singing and chanting inspired Australian Meredith so much that she now wants to learn Indian music! True to IIC’s motto, it was all about living, learning and leaving a legacy.

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49

Global Citizen

Neil Miller

A cross-cultural perspective to India

Photo Willi Willson

United We Stand

nepotism finds new meaning in india as 'family', a word you embrace to succeed in India IN THE world of Western business, there are certain words that every manager tries to distance himself/herself from: hierarchy, politics, favourtism, traditionalist, and so on. These “dirty words” carry a lot of baggage for us, but perhaps none as much as nepotism. We would like to believe we dropped all the evils of nepotism sometime around the Enlightenment of the 17th century. Surely nothing is as un-democratic or un-modern as giving an important post to a family member.

Any reference to nepotism becomes a scandal.

Recently, in Bavaria, a German state which prohibits politicians from employing spouses and children, two politicians resigned amid nepotism charges and 79 more have been named in reports. Even in the United States, which is supposed to be the international symbol for meritocracy, there was a report filed citing nine Congressmen for giving special jobs to family members during campaigns.

Living in India gives you a new perspective on most things, of course. You begin to see how hierarchy can also have a softer side, and how traditionalism can preserve things that need to be remembered. But what about nepotism? Family rules in politics, where 29% of Members of Parliament (MPs) are “hereditary” members, meaning they inherited their position from their parent. In fact, 100% of MPs under the age of 30 got their positions from their parents. In business, Air India has a pending inquiry against its executive director of operations for giving pilot licences to family members without meeting the requirements.

In Indian business, it is harder to separate family from the equation. When a relative is looking for a job,

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it is your duty to scout around your workplace and see if there are any suitable posts. Why wouldn’t you want to entrust key parts of your business to those whom you know the best? Why bring in a stranger when I can find someone with more vested interests in our success? It is estimated in India that 40% of new hires come from employee referrals and a good portion of those are family members.

In India, people take great pride in the success of the Tatas, Ambanis and Birlas, who have managed to run their businesses in the midst of family. The Tatas are famous for not only incorporating their family into their business but then also treating members like family once they join. All foreigners coming to India should be aware of the gold standard that most Indians will use to evaluate your organisation.

So, while nepotism might still be a dirty word in the world of business, family should definitely be a word you embrace to succeed as you work in India.

Food for Thought Questions expatriates asked us about India this month What is the average cost of living here?

Which are the best techniques for internal trainings that will work with Indians?

Why do Indians throw garbage on the street, yet their homes are so well kept?

If you have a question or an answer, write to us at courses@globaladjustments.com

Postcard from India

Impending Dome

urai last avelled to Mad tr I d an d Y IL MY FAM man temple an eenakshi Am M d e ye th jo t si en vi al. We year to Nayakkar Mah s te ai al da m at iru th Th the urai, a city ad M nd ith ou w wandering ar d once traded is ird century an akkar Mahal back to the th N irumalai ay Th ai al e. m m iru Ro t Th King ancien in 1636 AD by al ric ilt et bu m m ce la sy pa ith a beautiful, w is ce in la g pa in e w ht flo Nayak. Th arches and lig d an ng ni rs ar lla le pi d rows of We enjoye courtyard.

India’s through the y in one of or st hi s a’ di In t more abou oldest cities.

ra, USA

Rachel O Ha

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Holistic Living

Tracing India’s spiritual wisdom

Eknath Easwaran

photo Pascal Reynaud , france

ONE-POINTED ATTENTION ONE-POINTED attention is most rewarding in personal relationships, where nothing can be more important than giving complete attention to one another. This is particularly true with children. Children naturally ask all kinds of questions and take a long time to tell their stories, and in millions of homes the parents are reading the paper as they reply, “Yes, yes, I see.” And in millions of homes, the parents are surprised when their children don’t listen to them.

Those little bright eyes know when your attention is wandering. When they are telling you the news from school, give your full attention. Everything else can be set aside for the moment. You are training your children to listen to you.

That is how I was trained by my grandmother and my mother. Every day, when I came back from school, my grandmother would say, “Tell me everything from the time you left home until the time you came back.” All my news was important to her. She gave me her undivided attention as I went through the events of the day from English class through the soccer game and the swim in the river after school. Children need this, and we need time for listening to their stories, which they tell at their own pace. Giving them things is not a substitute for our time and our undivided attention.

In Zen, they say when you are listening to the roshi, the Zen master, your eyes should not wander even for a moment.

I think that is good advice for any occasion. When somebody is talking to you, give your full attention. Eyes, ears, mind, and heart should be focused on the person you are listening to. He or she can’t help responding to your wholehearted

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attention. Every conversation is an opportunity for training the mind to be one-pointed.

Today, after years of training, complete concentration comes naturally to me. Even if what the other person is saying is not of urgent interest to me, I find it natural to concentrate. My mind doesn’t wander, and neither do my eyes.

I can’t help but notice how common the opposite is.

Watch people at a social gathering. How many are really giving their full attention to the person they are talking with? There may be a lot of animated conversation and an air of conviviality in the room, but if you observe carefully, you will see that most people’s eyes are wandering. It means their minds are wandering too.

Once, after attending a warm social occasion at the home of a friend, I asked my hostess, “Why do people have these short, scattered conversations? It seemed to me that no one was really paying attention to anyone else.”

“Most people are ‘working the room,’” she replied candidly. “They want to be sure to say at least a few words to everyone who is there, and it really doesn’t matter what the words are so long as they are pleasant and reach all the important people. So you’re always looking around to see who has just come in.”

“Besides,” she added, “no one wants to get caught in a boring conversation. So everybody keeps looking around to see if there is someone more interesting to talk with.”

I couldn’t help thinking that if you can’t keep your attention in one place, how can anything not be boring?

Nothing can be interesting, after all, unless you give it your attention.

Effortless concentration is the secret of all personal relationships, whether it is with casual acquaintances, co-workers, colleagues, friends, or family. And when relationships are not particularly cordial, one-pointed attention is even more important. It is an exceptional person who can give complete attention to somebody who is being unpleasant. When you can do this, you can slowly disarm even a hostile person simply by listening without hostility, with complete and even loving attention. In my own long experience, no thrill is greater than that of winning over a tough opponent to be an ally.

In life we are going to come across opposition everywhere, especially when we are doing original, worthwhile work. Instead of becoming resentful or afraid, we can learn to look upon every opponent as a possible supporter and every piece of criticism as a way to grow. These are the challenges we need in order to learn how to win over opposition, to turn a difficult situation into an opportunity, and to transform our own negative qualities into strengths.

Years ago I went to see Romeo and Juliet presented by the Royal Shakespeare Company in San Francisco.

During the second act, where Romeo cries, “It is the east, and Juliet is the sun,” I heard a soft female voice rather

To listen and receive with one-pointed attention means to experience an intensification of vision and holding the precious gift of seeing into the heart of life unlike Juliet’s implore, “Where is the candy, please?”

I didn’t remember reading that line in Shakespeare.

I looked around and saw two high school girls who were sharing a box of candy. My grandmother, who could be blunt, would have told them, “You don’t know how to enjoy a play, and you don’t know how to enjoy candy either.”

When we do things with only a part of the mind, we are just skimming the surface of life. Nothing sinks in; nothing has real impact. It leads to an empty feeling inside. Unfortunately, it is this very emptiness that drives us to pack in even more, seeking desperately to fill the void in our hearts. What we need to do is just the opposite: to slow down and live completely in the present. Then every moment will be full.

A one-pointed mind makes beauty more beautiful.

Music becomes more beautiful; painting becomes more beautiful; colours are more vivid and tones more dulcet. There is an inspired passage in Western mysticism where Thomas Traherne tells us that in his eyes the streets appeared to be paved with gold, and the boys and girls playing there looked like angels.

“All appeared new,” he says, “and strange at first, inexpressibly rare and delightful and beautiful.” That is the intensification of vision, the seeing into the heart of life, which one-pointed attention brings.

Join us every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point

Programme

of

Meditation.

E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments. com. If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

Reprinted with permission from Take Your Time: The Wisdom of Slowing Down by Eknath Easwaran. Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971. www.easwaran.org

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From the Other Side Indian spirituality through the expat eyes

Marina Marangos

photo Ben Bowling, USA

Hand Picked Prayers THERE is is a lot in India that is unfamiliar, and some expats in India may not find it easy to be immersed in the local rituals and culture. Not everyone has the ability to go out and explore, but I defy any reader who has spent some time in India, whether as a resident or a tourist, to plead ignorance about puja. There is no way you cannot see it, hear it and occasionally smell it, wherever you are in India, from the simple welcoming ceremony conducted at five star hotels when you arrive, to the elaborate rituals that take place in some of the shrines and temples.

In short, it means worship — an act of worship to honour a god. It is the act of offering a gift to a deity and receiving blessing in return. Simple enough, you might think, but when you see how widely it is applied to every facet of life here it makes you want to know more.

What is it, why is it so central to the lives of so many Indians and what purpose does it serve? You could say it is the cornerstone of Hinduism but it is also practised by Buddhists and Sikhs. There is evidence of pujas being performed in the epics of the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, and to my delight (because I always like to find the connections) there is evidence to say that some elements of

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This month, our writer walks us through the sprawling world living in this little word in India – puja.

Its significance, its experience, its lasting impressions

the puja may have come from the Greeks or the Bactrians all those years ago!

I suppose my first encounter with a puja in India came when my driver turned up a little late and had a red streak of colour on his forehead. I asked him about it and he said he had done a puja to Lord Shiva. As with most Indians, he maintains a place in his house where he is able to conduct this small but significant worship to his chosen god. Why they do it is of course a question that has many answers.

For most, it is a deep and spiritual connection to their God. For others it is an affirmation of their faith and, for some, perhaps it is a ritualistic practice passed down by families that has entered into their lives without much question or forethought.

There are many Gods who are the centre of the puja but one of the great favourites is Ganesh, the elephant-headed god, a god who is good at opening the way and removing obstacles. He is also a great favourite of taxi drivers and drivers in general, who invariably have a picture or an image of the god attached to their dashboard.

The other most memorable moment was the puja performed by our hosts at a Diwali party and our own efforts at one. The puja tray often holds a pot of water for ritualistic cleansing, red powder to mark the forehead, a lamp with ghee and incense, as well as flowers or fruit and offering of food. I had no idea that the coconut, which is often found on puja trays, is symbolic of the ego that must be broken to allow the worshipper to come closer to God. The light from the little burning lamp is symbolic of knowledge and, of course, these lights are very much part of the Diwali celebration.

Puja is a ritual that is as much a part of daily life as eating and bathing. For most Indian households, puja occurs within the confines of the home; so, unless you have some good Indians friends who might share this experience with you, you may never witness it. It often involves all five senses — sight, smell, touch, taste and sound.

One of my earliest memories of puja involved a festival in Bhopal, where my husband and I had been invited as special

guests (seen in the picture above). It was necessary to start the proceedings with a puja and it involved us being up close to the representation of the god, who was cleaned and decorated with flowers. We held the puja tray and blessed the proceedings with the light, the offerings of fruit and water by circling the tray with the incense burning in front of the god. I was hesitant to start with, but then quickly enjoyed my participation in the ritual.

At least, it brought back memories of my childhood and reminded me that participating in India's spirituality only strengthens one's own path! I am a Christian, specifically a Greek Orthodox Christian and interestingly, perhaps more so than Catholics and Protestants, we are also in the practice of doing pujas at home. We, like many other families, had a small puja corner in the house with the icons of a number of saints.

In our family's case, St George and St Marina were favourites.

On special occasions, my mother would light a small incense burner with charcoal and dried olive leaves, which would give off a characteristic smokey incense, and she would bless the icons and the family.

Perhaps a puja's universal appeal is because it is a ritual that has evolved to bring religion closer to people — indeed, it enables people to have a relationship with their God, separate from that of the temple and the priests and which clearly is more suited to the hustle and bustle of modern life.

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Myth and Mythology Practical tips from India’s ancient stories

Devdutt Pattanaik

photo Magali Reynaud, France

Seeing is Believing

As much as the world of delusions has its trappings, Devdutt feels our mythology tells us the necessity for delusions to gently coax humanity towards the world of harsh realities NEWS reached the king of Matsya, Virata, that his son, Uttar, had single-handedly defeated the Kaurava army, pushing back great warriors like Karna and Duryodhana (Editor’s note: This is a scene from the Indian epic, Mahabharata, right before the great battle of Kurukshetra between cousins, the Kauravas and the Pandavas.). The city prepared to welcome the young prince — the streets were watered, the buildings decorated with flowers and lamps and fluttering flags.

King Virata’s heart was filled with pride. His son had done the impossible. He ordered the poets to compose songs in Uttar’s honour.

“But sir,” said a priest standing next to Virata, “Does it not seem odd that a slip of a boy was able to defeat such mighty warriors? Surely he had help. Maybe that of his charioteer, Brihanalla, the eunuch, who once served Arjuna, the great archer.” The king ignored what the priest had to say and continued praising his son.

Once again the priest said, “Surely sir, you do not

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believe he did it all alone. He must have had the support of another, perhaps Brihanalla, the eunuch, who once served Arjuna, the great archer.” Again the king ignored him and continued praising his son. Again the priest suggested that it might have been the eunuchcharioteer, not the prince. Only this time, the king reacted violently. “Shut up!” he shouted and slapped the priest so hard that his nose started to bleed.

The priest had been speaking the truth. Uttar had indeed been helped by the eunuch-charioteer, Brihanalla, who was actually Arjuna in disguise. But the king was not ready to receive the truth. He wanted to enjoy the alleged success of his son but the priest, in his relentless pursuit of correctness, did not appreciate a father’s desire. The priest’s truth was cold and insensitive. The king wanted compassion, at the cost of the truth, for some time at least.

The priest was Yudhishtra in disguise. This event takes place in the final year of exile of the Pandavas

TAILORMADE TRIPS FROM JUNE - SEPT 2013

when they had to lose their identity and live incognito. The purpose of this humiliation in the Mahabharatha was to reveal to Yudhishtra the human desire for delusions and the importance of being gentle with the harsh truth.

Yes, in an ideal world, we should not have delusions.

Everything should be factual. However, this is not an ideal world and delusions enable us to cope with the harshness of reality. Delusions have value. Without delusions there would be no want, no market for luxury goods, no need for brands, no room for advertising.

Sohail was tired of creating concepts for advertising.

“These are all lies,” he said, “Deodorants are not aphrodisiacs, whitening creams are not life-transformers, soaps are not elixirs of life, cars do not bring couples together. This is all nonsense.” He felt like a manipulator, playing with people’s emotions and hopes and desires to peddle his wares. Why could he not simply tell the truth? But the truth would cost his clients their sales. It would result in more than a mere nosebleed.

Delusions play a key role in life. The word for delusion is maya. In mythology, Vishnu spins the web of maya. He is called the great deluder, Mayin. Some even consider him a manipulator. He makes room for the human need for delusions and gently coaxes man towards the truth. He has infinite patience, for we have infinite lives.

This article originally appeared in the Corporate Dossier, ET, November 2011. Reprinted with permission from www.devdutt.com

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Give to India

Taara Manian

Indian NGOs making a difference every day

The Special Spectrum Hand holding young autistic adults and helping them find self esteem in life is what this special organisation does in mumbai PRATISH Sajnani and Mayur Sadhwani are in their thirties and are inseparable friends. They are like other youngsters in many ways — they like to sing, cook and read. What differentiates them is that they are young adults on the autistic spectrum.

Pratish and Mayur have found a sense of purpose, motivation and achievement in life through Shraddha, a charitable trust, committed to the empowerment and development of autistic and mentally-challenged young adults.

Started as a small garage initiative in 1997, with 16 adults and skeletal staff, Shraddha now has 47 adults, volunteers, support staff, teachers and care workers. Children born with autism face a lifelong development disability, affecting their communication and social abilities and therefore leading an entirely dependent life. They require assistance in order to overcome obstacles in academics, behavioural interventions and social interaction. Shraddha adopts a pioneering approach where young adults with autism and developmental delay are assisted to take small steps towards independence as well as self-sufficiency.

Special educators and caring volunteers help leverage their rudimentary skills and explore their latent potential to develop a wide range of artistic and environment-friendly lifestyle products. After a special training programme, these young autistic adults master simple skills such as sticking, recycling, moulding and pressing. The products that they make include grocery bags from newspapers, recycled-paper gift bags, incense holders, paper jewellery and more.

By creating and selling tastefully designed eco-friendly products, Shraddha provides a means of livelihood and support for less fortunate individuals. The nature of these activities coupled with an intensive therapeutic routine creates a working environment that enhances motor and sensory perception and promotes social interaction, which are the biggest challenges faced by them. The proceeds from the sale of these products are distributed in the form of a monthly remuneration. Mayur’s parents find that the monthly remuneration he receives makes him feel independent and he takes great pride in his work, boosting his self confidence and self esteem. Pratish, on the other hand, has not just felt appreciated and loved, he has also improved his communication, confidence and physical stamina. The sense of accomplishment and achievement in hand-crafting the products goes a long way in encouraging them to live their lives with dignity.

To buy products from Shraddha Charitable Trust or support them, contact 022-2351 3735 or +91-9820904079 or email info@ shraddhamumbai.org. For more details, visit http://www.shraddhamumbai.org.

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Spotlight

Shefali Ganesh

Focussing on India’s major influences and events

All Saint's Day Read To understand the soul of Kabir, read Jaya Madhavan's 'Kabir — The Weaver Poet' that walks you through a day in Kabir's life, laced with his famous couplets.

Do

Learn a doha a day from http://tinyurl.com/d8bygmo.

Here's one to start you off: Dheere Dheere Re Mana, Dheere Sub Kutch Hoye Mali Seenche So Ghara, Ritu Aaye Phal Hoye Slowly, slowly O mind, everything happens at its own pace The gardener may water with a hundred buckets, but the fruit arrives only in its season

Locate

Short and sweet, wise and impish, 15th century poet-saint Kabir's poetry continues to capture the imagination of India. We turn the spotlight on the magic of Kabir this month to commemorate his birth anniversary on June 4 KABIR, born to a Hindu widow and abandoned at birth, was brought up by a Muslim weaver in the holy town of Varanasi in North India. Growing up during the times of a rigid caste system, Kabir saw the plight of poverty-stricken artisans and began to grow into the voice that stood up against oppression and inequality. He became a disciple of the Hindu ascetic, Ramananda, a religious reformer. Unlike the saints of his time, Kabir did not become an ascetic or abandon worldly life, and, instead, lived a balanced life of a householder and a weaver.

Being illiterate, Kabir's verses and couplets (dohas) are penned in vernacular Hindi, common to the 15th century.

Through his poetry, he condemned the social and religious systems, the futility of idol worship and preached a universal view of spirituality. His pensive and earthy poems preach love and humanity without becoming sanctimonious and, perhaps, that is why his words are still so alive. Here's how you can get to know him and his work better:

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Kabirwad, situated in an island near the river Narmada, Gujarat, should be visited not just for historical reasons but also for the solitude it exudes. Kabir is said to have lived here for many years in the grove formed by a giant banyan tree and there is a Kabir temple to mark his presence.

Shop Over the years, there have been several revivalist movements for Kabir's poetry.

Renowned classical vocalist, Shubha Mudgal's soulful rendition of Kabir in the album, 'In Everybody Kabir' is a mustbuy. Listen to one of the songs from the album here: http://tinyurl.com/qhpj6zh Another more recent rendition of his poetry is by young musicians Vedanth Bharadwaj and Bindhumalini, who have travelled across the country singing about Kabir. Their album, 'Suno Bhai', is a collection of eight Kabir poems. To know more and buy a copy of this CD, visit www.sunosuno.in

Connect

See, hear and almost feel the genius of Kabir by watching films made on his life and poetry.

'Koi Sunta Hai' (Someone Is Listening), part of The Kabir Project (www.kabirproject.org) by filmmaker Shabnam Virmani is a mustwatch.

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India Writes A look at India's books and other literary trivia

Sophie Says – Memoirs of a Breakup Coach

by Judy Balan

Reviewed by Babette Verbeek

What is it about?

Sophie is a thirty-year-old single woman from Chennai who believes she’s just not ‘wired’ to have a relationship. After a decade of short-lived relationships, all of which end with Sophie having to do the breaking up, she writes a popular blog calling herself the breakup coach. Until Sophie manoeuvres herself into a situation where there’s not one but two men with whom she’d like to settle down for the rest of her life. Which man to choose? The unleashed emotions of love herald the end of the breakup blog, but what about her single life?

Who is it by?

Judy Balan is a successful blogger living in Chennai, just like Sophie the protagonist of her novel. Upon turning thirty, the author decided to challenge herself to write a novel and the result, ‘Two Fates – The Story of My Divorce’ became a national bestseller that will soon be made into a movie. ‘Sophie Says’ is her second book; judging from the subject and dialogues chances are that this book too will be seen on screen in the future.

Why should I read it?

Read it because the hot Indian summer calls for a light-hearted book laced with a pinch of romance and a lot of comedy. Incidentally, ‘Sophie Says’ also offers foreign readers a peek into the life and ideas of twenty and thirty somethings living in one of India’s metros.

What’s more, if not for this book you might remain oblivious to such terms as ‘Bong Woman’ and ‘OMB’.

Inspired Words Judy Balan’s first book was based on Chetan Bhagat’s bestselling novel, ‘Two States – The Story of My Marriage’.

Here’s some interesting trivia on Bhagat and his books: ‘Two States’ is based on his own love story, where Bhagat (the boy) is from New Delhi and his wife, Anusha Suryanarayanan (the girl), is from Tamil Nadu. The book is about the girl and boy winning over their families to make the wedding happen.

Chetan Bhagat quit his job as a successful investment banker to write full-time. This is his fourth book.

All Chetan Bhagat books have been made into movies. His first book, ‘Five Point Someone’ was made into the blockbuster, ‘3 Idiots’. His second book, ‘One Night @ the Call Center’ was made into ‘Hello’. His third book, ‘The Three Mistakes of My Life’ was made into the recently-released, ‘Kai Po Che’. And ‘Two States’ is currently being made into a movie.

In 2008, the New York Times called Bhagat “the biggest selling English language novelist in India’s history” and Time magazine named him one of the 100 Most Influential People in the World in 2010.

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Tell us your Story

anita krishnaswamy

Your real estate guide to India

The ouse Whisperer How soon will we have access to maintenance people when we have immediate repairs?

(American tenant in Mumbai) Let us talk about maintenance from two perspectives: Maintenance of the Property This would include cleaning and maintaining the common areas such as the garden, pool, gym, entertainment area, children’s play area, walkway, lounges in case of gated communities and condominiums and large apartment complexes. Most of these complexes have an association and a team of skilled technicians who will be available on call to take care of any immediate repairs that may occur during the period of your tenancy. Accessing these people and availability varies from complex to complex. It is best to check out during your lease process how these support functions work.

Maintenance of Electrical Appliances and White Goods If the responsibility of the maintenance of electrical appliances and white goods is with the tenant, please be informed that there are two types of maintenance support that you could seek: 1. Freelance technicians who could be accessed from any public domain directory like sulekha.com.

2. Technicians and support team associated with the brands of the products It is advisable to take the contact details (preferably mobile

numbers of technicians – freelancers or support team of brands) from the landlord as he/she may be familiar with the technicians, ensuring trust and credibility.

Coming to the direct answer to this question, these people are accessible from the date you move in. However, the service and corrective actions have no definite timelines in India. Following up at regular intervals may help solve the issue.

What can we use the prayer room for?

(German tenant in Chennai) The concept of an exclusive prayer room is more prevalent in the south than in the north of India. In most homes, this room is ideally positioned using Indian Feng Shui called Vaastu that is said to bring good vibes.

The normal built-in area for this special room would be anywhere from 50 sq.ft. to 200 sq.ft., depending on the overall built-in area of the house. These prayer rooms are normally constructed closer to the kitchen. So the ideal suggestion would be to use it as a storeroom. If it is over a 100 sq.ft., it could also be used as a small office space.

If the landlord is very particular about his faith, please inform him/her about how you intend to use that space. In my experience, I have had to advice clients not to turn it into a bar or shoeroom as it might be insensitive.

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home search - listings by global adjustments Chennai

Owners, list your property with us for MNC clients. Renters and buyers, we are your one-stop shop for all real estate needs.

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• Brand new with 5 bedrooms • Guest suite • Home theatre room and cozy attic • Office room on ground floor

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For more properties, call Global Adjustments at 91 44 24617902/91 72999 12605 (Chennai), or e-mail: realty@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

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home search - listings by global adjustments Bengaluru

Owners, list your property with us for MNC clients. Renters and buyers, we are your one-stop shop for all real estate needs.

South West Bengaluru Apartment for Rent • • • •

3 bedrooms Quiet neighbourhood Club house Gated community

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North Bengaluru Apartment for Rent

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3 bedrooms Modern kitchen Semi furnished apartment Centrally located

4 bedrooms Natural lighting Gated community Centrally located

Mumbai

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 80 41267152 /9986960315 or email: blr@globaladjustments.com

Bandra West Fully Furnished Duplex Apartment for Rent • 4 bedrooms, 3,500 sq.ft.

• Beautiful sea view • Marble flooring, modular kitchen • Two car parking spaces, servant's quarters

Juhu Fully Furnished Apartment for Rent

Juhu Spacious Apartment for Rent

Malabar Hill Large Apartment for Rent

• 3 bedrooms, 2,500 sq.ft.

• Modular kitchen, marble flooring • Car parking and servant's quarters • Gym

• 4,000 sq.ft., 4 bedrooms • Terrace • Furnished kitchen, marble flooring • Two car parking spaces and servant's quarters

• 4,000 sq.ft., 4 bedrooms • Marble flooring, modular kitchen • Car parking • Servant's quarters

Delhi

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 22 66104191/ 9769001515 or email: mum@globaladjustments.com

Delhi - Vasant Vihar Property for Rent

Delhi - Rajokri Farmhouse for Rent

Delhi - Shanti Niketan Spacious Apartment for Rent

Gurgaon - Palm Springs Villa for Rent

• Duplex apartment • 4 bedrooms • Aesthetically designed with character • Air conditioned, 100% Power back up • Terrace

• 5 bedrooms, lounge • Swimming pool, well maintained garden • Air conditioned with Power back up • Good location.

• Four bedrooms plus basement • Fully air conditioned • New construction • 100% Power back up

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• 100% security and Power back up • Clubhouse, gym, bowling alley and a movie theatre.

• Children’s play area

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 124 435 4236/ 981551070 or email: del@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

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Registered with the Registrar of Newspapers for India RNI No.TNENG/2010/32752. Postal Reg.No.TN/CC(S)Dn./396/2013-15.

Licensed to post without prepayment under WPP No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-268/2013-15. Date of Publication:1st of every month.

Celebrating 18 years of service, 1995–2013

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