August 2019 Global Traveler by Global Traveler

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August 2019

FOOD & WINE ISSUE GT presents the winners of the 16th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. p. 34

BANGKOK p. 60 BORDEAUX p. 72 CAFAYATE p. 66 ITALY p. 70 HANOI p. 52 PORTO p. 62 SAVANNAH p. 63 WILLAMETTE VALLEY p. 58

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

IN GOOD TASTE I’M A BIT EMBARRASSED TO ADMIT it’s taken me this long, but I finally made it to Portugal this summer. While I spent only two days in Lisbon, my visit in June, paired with the Porto article (turn to page 62), left me wanting more. I have a long list of destinations within the country to visit next time — and I won’t let it take me so long to return. It’s easier than ever for U.S. travelers to visit Portugal, as TAP Air Portugal recently launched service from Chicago (ORD); Washington, D.C. (IAD); and San Francisco (SFO). I was lucky enough to join the inaugural flight from San Francisco to Lisbon (more on page 18), and the excitement in the air was palpable before boarding. The new flights will go a long way in connecting A PASSION FOR PORTUGAL: Portuguese communities in the United States Kimberly Krol in Lisbon with their homeland. PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL Welcome to our Food & Wine Issue; in the past, this has been our Wine Issue, but this year we opened that up to include cuisine, one of the most important aspects of travel for many people. A Food & Wine Issue wouldn’t be complete, of course, without Portugal, and my recent trip highlighted the importance of food in my travels. Despite a limited time in the city and a tight schedule, it was essential I make time to visit Pastéis de Belém to try the famous egg custard tart of the same name. It didn’t feel like my visit would be complete without sampling the iconic dessert, available throughout the country but particularly of note at this specific bakery, where the tart’s secret ingredient has been a long-held secret. It was worth the visit. I also eagerly read Donna Long’s article on Savannah, Georgia, page 63. Next month I’m headed to the city for the first time for a bachelorette party. If there’s a city that can live up to the task of offering food and beverage to satisfy 11 women with varying diets and tastes, Savannah is it. Each article in this issue made me eager to visit the destination — and made me hungry and thirsty! Where else are we eating and drinking this month? Tokyo, Hanoi, Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Bangkok, Cafayate, Italy and Bordeaux. Check out some lesser-known food and wine regions on page 44, and find out which airlines serve the best wines in the sky on page 34. Join us next month when we visit the burgeoning tourist destination of Malta and go gorilla trekking in Uganda. Until then, cheers!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com Intern ANDREW MELNICK intern@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

KRISTY ALPERT TERESA BITLER DEBRA BOKUR ELLEN CLARK EUNICE FRIED KELLY MAGYARICS BECCA HENSLEY KARIN LEPERI DONNA LONG KATIE MCELVEEN RICHARD NEWTON BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD,

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TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

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AUGUST 2019

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letter from the publisher ® ®

CHEERS TO TRAVEL! MANY OF YOU TELL ME you read Global Traveler from cover to cover, and I hope you’ll enjoy this August issue as part of your summer reading. Perhaps you’ll be cruising at 35,000 feet on the way to some exotic locale or, like me, listening to the waves crash on the beach while getting some real R&R. GT recently underwent its most extensive Alliance for Audited Media audit to date. We spent several months pulling individual WORLD OF GOLF: subscription files and printing bills, Francis winning at Turkish Airlines newsstand details, airline lounge inPHOTO: © TURKISH AIRLINES formation and postal receipts. We go through this process to verify our distribution and circulation and to review internally the best target for the publication. We spent part of our summer at the Global Business Travel Association conference in Chicago. Our distributors, in conjunction with GBTA, made sure Global Traveler was in every delegate’s registration bag as well as throughout the convention center and city. Eight GT staffers, including yours truly, plied the conference, and I am pleased to say we were a hit with planners and other attendees. Our cocktail reception at the Claridge House in Chicago proved an intimate epicurean success. At this event we also awarded The Trazees, selected by the readers of our millennial platform, trazeetravel.com. We’re proud to present this issue chock-full of useful information for the independent business traveler. In these pages you’ll find in-depth surveys and more destinations than any other magazine. As this is the annual Food & Wine Issue, note the winners of our annual Wines on the Wing first- and business-class airline wine competition, as well as the best destinations for excellent wining and dining. Best regards, and enjoy the summer. I plan to close the month by traveling south to Cape San Blas, Florida, to enjoy the waters of the Gulf of Mexico while I investigate the area’s recovery from Hurricane Michael last Oct. 10. On a final note, I selected a trip to Lanai to celebrate my birthday — thanks for all your suggestions. I look forward to United Airlines’ non-stop flight from Newark (EWR) to Honolulu (HNL) and its lie-flat seats!

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contents

August 2019

PHOTOS: © THE ADRIANNE PHOTO, © ANDRONIS EXCLUSIVE, © VINH DAO - DREAMSTIME.COM

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

34 Wines on the Wing 2019 GT presents the winners of the 16th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition.

52 Destination One: Hanoi Despite rapid changes, Hanoi retains its traditional charms.

44 Perfect Pairings Discover new frontiers in food and wine around the globe. 48 A Toast to Tokyo Infuse your MICE event with Japanese culture, wine and cuisine.

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AUGUST 2019

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

FOOD & WINE ISSUE

58 Stateside: Willamette Valley Sample the bounty of food, wine and brews in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. 60 9–5: Bangkok Bangkok bustles with options for wining and dining clients. 62 After 5: Porto Spend a sublime evening tasting Porto’s wine, cuisine and culture.

August 2019

GT presents the winners of the 16th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. p. 34

BANGKOK p. 60 BORDEAUX p. 72 CAFAYATE p. 66 ITALY p. 70 HANOI p. 52 PORTO p. 62 SAVANNAH p. 64 WILLAMETTE VALLEY p. 58

COVER PHOTO: FOOD AND WINE IN SANTORÍNI, GREECE PHOTO: © SANTORINES - DREAMSTIME.COM

contents

August 2019 22

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

21 Technology 22 Wine & Spirits 23 Wealth 24 Tours 26 Spas 28 Golf 30 Chefs 31 Cruising 76 LGBTQ+ 80 Health

10 Mail Call 13 News 16 Reviews 20 One on One City Winery 78 Airport Update 82 Preview

63 Neighborhoods: Savannah Discover the culinary charms of historic Savannah. 66 Friends & Family: Cafayate Revel in Cafayate’s remarkable vintages, food and landscapes. 70 Bucket List: Italy Make Montepulciano your home base for a jaunt through Tuscany. 72 Kicking Back: Bordeaux Bordeaux boasts legendary wines, fine dining and enchantment galore.

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AUGUST 2019

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2019 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © AEROGARDEN, © ALVARO GERMAN VILELA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANNA CAMPBELL

mail call Q&A WITH RICHARD EVANS, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT

Q&A WITH TRACEY CULLEN, ART DIRECTOR

August is our annual Food & Wine Issue — my favorite themed issue! I love tasting new wines, and I always seek out wineries wherever we travel. My bucket list is filled with places famous for their wine: France, Portugal, Argentina, and even stateside, including Oregon and Napa Valley.

In our June issue, Richard Evans discussed his interests in active, outdoor pursuits like horseback riding, biking and sailing. He mentioned a horseback riding trek through Sienna, Italy, stopping from farmhouse to farmhouse. This inspired the question: What similar trips have our readers experienced?

What is your favorite wine destination? Did this issue give you any ideas for where you’d like to go wine tasting? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

My sister is an avid runner, and I was slowly getting into it myself when she asked me to run a race with her through Redwood National Forest. I jumped at the chance, and it’s become a new tradition of ours — finding a long-distance race to run, somewhere we want to visit and making a mini trip out of it.

BACK ON THE BOEING 737 MAX

REBECCA STALL, via email Finding something active and outdoorsy to do while on vacation isn’t the challenge, it’s finding someone to do it with. I usually stick to running in the morning when on vacation; that way I can explore a new area for a bit on my own, before the family wakes up. STEWART WALSH, via email

LETTER TO THE EDITOR An avid reader recently wrote in with thoughts on a recent experience traveling through the new Istanbul Airport and Turkish Airlines’ club lounge: I flew Turkish Airlines heading to İstanbul from Chicago. During my travels, I go to a lot of lounges and always read your magazine — it’s everywhere! My wife and I went through

İstanbul to Israel. The new airport is amazing, and the Turkish Airlines club lounge at that airport — have you been? — oh my! That airport is at the top of my list. The lounge is quite amazing: massages, food cooked to order, every drink you could think of, and it’s the size of about three Costcos. JEFF SUSICH, via email

You asked if I will fly on this aircraft. No, nope, no way, nuh huh, never. I think Boeing is being really naive here. It really, really lost travelers’ trust. I’ll be checking what aircraft I’m booking on and will not fly on this plane. FRANCESCA KELLY, Highland Park, Illinois Will I fly on the 737 Max? Not for a long while. Boeing was dishonest in how it addressed the original problem. After

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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AUGUST 2019

PHOTOS: © TRACEY CULLEN, © TURKISH AIRLINES

In our May 29 and July 19 eFlyer USA newsletters and several other articles on our website, we covered Boeing’s completion of a 737 software fix, Boeing 737 MAX Summit and American Airlines’ canceled Boeing 737 MAX flights, respectively. A few readers wrote in with comments and responses:

VOTED BEST AIRLINE IN NORTH AMERICA, AGAIN Air Canada is proud to be named Best Airline in North America at the 2019 Skytrax World Airline Awards for the 8th time in 10 years. Serving over 50 U.S. cities, we are committed to providing our customers the best travel experience possible, with more non-stop flights between the United States and Canada than any other carrier and seamless connections via our Canadian gateways to destinations spanning 6 continents. Learn more at aircanada.com

mail call about a year or so of proven reliability, I will probably fly on the aircraft again. But I want a proven track record, and I’ll check the FAA website to track incident reports. EMANUEL R. BAKER, PH.D., via email

MY KIND OF TOWN, CHICAGO IS In our June 4 issue of eFlyer USA, we listed the recent ranking, from WalletHub, of Best and Worst Cities for Staycations. Along with Honolulu and Orlando, Chicago tops the list as one of the best staycation destinations, inspiring a reader and Chitown resident to write in: I am thoroughly delighted (but not surprised) my hometown of Chicago is at the top of the list. Every season is a delight — endless festivals, neighborhoods, architecture, attractions, hotels, great food and, of course, beautiful Lake Michigan. Sometimes we just take a weekend and become “tourists.” Yes, even in winter. We always look at things with a fresh perspective, always enlightening and just plain enjoyable yearround. SUE CASTORINO, via email

THE STATE OF FUN IN THE STATES In our June 25 eFlyer USA issue, we listed the newly announced ranking of the most and least fun states in the country, according to WalletHub. A few readers wrote in with thoughts: I’m a little surprised Delaware was among the lowest-ranking states. With Delaware’s great beaches, shopping and FireFly music festival in Dover, I would think the state would rank higher on the fun list. CORI FIELDSMAN, via email I’m not surprised at all California and New York top the list as fun states. There’s so much to do, even beyond the world-famous cities. It’s difficult to argue, no matter your idea of fun. ADAM HOAGLAND, via email I had to live in Mississippi for a little more than a year for work, and I can confirm it belongs in the low-ranking list of fun states. ROBIN WELTS, via email

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2018

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WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from seeing Washington, D.C., via Segway to helping solve the problem of overtourism.

PARTICIPATE IN VOTING Visit our website to vote for your favorites in the 2019 GT Tested Reader Survey.

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news Brussels Hosts Annual Food and Wine Event

This September, Brussels will host the eighth annual “eat! BRUSSELS, drink! BORDEAUX” festival in Brussels Park, Belgium, an event that showcases the best of cuisine from the Belgian capital plus the best of Bordeaux wines. The four-day event will be held Thursday, Sept. 5–Sunday, Sept. 8, at Brussels Park and will celebrate Brussels’ renowned restaurants and chefs representing cultures and cuisines from all over the globe. But the festival offers more than just pop-up kitchens and wine tastings; attendees can also pull up a chair for cocktail master classes and to watch Brussels’ prawn croquettes competition. When not tasting chefs’ signature dishes, guests can sample cheeses and desserts, or visit one of 40 wine merchants from the Bordeaux wine region in France. Admission is free, but guests must purchase a magnetic Wine Pass upon arrival to take part in tastings. eat.brussels/en

SINGAPORE AIRLINES’ FARM-TO-PLANE MEALS Travelers have become accustomed to dousing in-flight meals with salt and pepper in an attempt to pull out even the tiniest bit of taste from the bland main courses, but Singapore Airlines plans to revolutionize airplane food with its “farm-to-plane” initiative. As part of the concept to introduce more sustainable meals on flights, the airline will use only local ingredients to create dishes and will also include ingredients sourced from farms in countries where Singapore Airlines offers service. The airline will source fish from fisheries certified by the Marine Stewardship Council, an organization known for sustainable fishing, and will offer less meat in meal options on board. Meals will revolve around the route’s country of origin and destination country. Implementation of the farm-to-plane meal initiative will begin later in 2019, starting with customers in Singapore Airlines suite seats and gradually introduced to all classes.

PHOTOS: © SINGAPORE AIRLINES, © QATAR AIRWAYS

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Qatar Airways Introduces Quisine

In an effort to elevate in-flight meals for economy passengers, Qatar Airways launched a new meal program called Quisine. The meal experience with Quisine begins when passengers receive a menu that outlines the timeline of meal service during their long-haul flight. On flights longer than five hours, a pre-dinner drink service also will be included as well as cocktail snacks before the main meal is served. If passengers become hungry at any time throughout the flight or crave a snack while watching a movie or TV show, they can order one of Quisine’s snack options, such as a cheese-and-cracker tray, potato chips or popcorn in flavors such as Himalayan Salted Caramel or French Butter. Main meals will increase in size by 25 percent, with the use of local, fresh and healthy ingredients to increase by 50 percent. qatarairways.com

AUGUST 2019

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news

Dine with Locals in Their Homes

Airport flight departure boards can often be misleading; sometimes they’ll rush you to the gate by indicating your flight is “boarding,” but upon arriving at your gate you find a long line of fellow passengers waiting to board. Airlines like Delta Air Lines and United Airlines prevent this disappointment by sending push notifications to their passengers via mobile apps to indicate when actual boarding begins in real time, and now American Airlines is testing the same feature on its own mobile app. With this feature, boarding notifications begin when the first boarding pass is scanned, and passengers will also be informed of the time the boarding gates will close. The push notification feature is currently undergoing beta-testing for iOS and Android devices, with plans to make the feature available to all American Airlines passengers once the testing period has completed. aa.com

Taco Bell to Take Over a Hotel

eatwith.com

Singapore Hosts Global Restaurant Leadership Conference

This month, fans of the fast-food chain will be able to stay at the temporary Taco Bell Hotel and Resort in Palm Springs, California. The taco restaurant will move into an existing resort for five nights of the popular Tex-Mex cuisine. Guests at the Taco Bell Hotel will be able to visit a gift shop, paint Taco Bell nail art onto their nails and, of course, sample favorite menu items. But guests also will be able to sample snacks and meals that aren’t always on the menu, such as breakfast dishes only available during certain hours in restaurants and not well-known. Taco Bell hopes guests will use their stay as an opportunity to promote the chain restaurant on social media and build brand awareness beyond the brick-and-mortar restaurants. The first night of operation will be Aug. 9.

This fall, Singapore will host the fourth annual Global Restaurant Leadership Conference at the Marina Bay Sands Hotel. The event will take place Nov. 3–6 and will bring together more than 1,200 representatives from the world’s top food service organizations for informational sessions, networking opportunities and a trade show element that will allow companies to showcase their products and services. Speakers will include leaders from Yum! Brands, Jollibee Foods, Hungry Jack and other international chains who will share their stories and insights into industry trends, sales data and leadership tactics.

tacobell.com

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AUGUST 2019

PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © TACO BELL, © EATWITH

American Airlines Beta-Tests Boarding Push Notifications

Finding a local travel experience often involves booking a shared tour that only gives you a surface-level look into the life of a resident in your new destination, but mobile apps and startups developed ways to bring locals and visitors together in more intimate settings, allowing foreigners to experience a new place via the food, families and conversation that may not otherwise take place. One example is Eatwith, an app that lets travelers search their location for locals willing to invite them into their home, cook for them and possibly even cook with them. The app is in use in more than 100 countries around the world. Guests can peruse activities such as cooking classes with residents, wine tastings or even just appetizers and an evening chat. Prices vary depending on what’s involved, and reviews are available from former diners.

deals & rewards

Hyatt Partners with American Airlines, Joie de Vivre Hotels

Juicy Miles Award-Booking Tool

Amassing frequent-flyer miles and travel points is easy, but figuring out how to combine and redeem these points can pose a logistical nightmare. Redemption options depend on airline alliances, credit card transfer partners and transfer limitations. Enter Juicy Miles, an online platform that helps travelers figure out how to use points for free travel. Since its inception in January 2019, the automated search tool has conducted more than 176,981 searches across 26 loyalty programs. Once users enter their rewards program information and see a list of search results, Juicy Miles instructs travelers on how they can redeem their points most effectively. Currently, Juicy Miles can churn out results for one-way and round-trip flights (with multistop and stopover flights to come) for a monthly fee of $29.99.

Since Hyatt’s announcement regarding new ties with American Airlines that will allow travelers to earn and redeem both hotel points and airline miles between the two entities, the partners announced yet another inclusion in the expanding family of miles and points. Hyatt incorporated Joie de Vivre Hotels into the World of Hyatt loyalty program, allowing for an even larger pool of properties in which travelers can combine and cash in their points. As of mid-May, loyalty members can earn and redeem points at Joie de Vivre properties throughout the country, as well as at any of Two Roads Hospitality’s brands, acquired by Hyatt in 2018. world.hyatt.com jdvhotels.com

PHOTOS: © JUICY MILES, © HARPERDREWART - DREAMSTIME.COM, © JOIE DE VIVRE HOTELS

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New Allowances for Delta Elite Flyers Credit Cards Cover TSA PreCheck Fees

The Transportation Security Administration PreCheck program comes with an $85 application fee and, once approved, allows travelers to speed through security checkpoints for the next five years after applying. Eleven cards either cover the application fee or reimburse you for the fee, making it a no-brainer to sign up for the perk to save you one headache at the airport. These credit cards are Chase Sapphire Reserve, the Platinum Card from American Express, Capital One Venture Rewards, United Explorer Card from Chase, IHG Rewards Club Premier Card, Citi Prestige, Marriott Bonvoy Brilliant American Express Card, Citi/AAdvantage Executive World Elite MasterCard, Bank of America Premium Rewards Card, SunTrust Travel Rewards Card and the U.S. Bank FlexPerks Gold American Express Card.

Achieving elite status with an airline can feel like being knighted, but a lapse in travel can cause members to lose this status, thus sending them back to square one. Delta Air Lines is introducing a change to its elite status terms in order to help sporadic travelers maintain the status earned. If elite members experience one of the following life events, they can apply for an extension of their elite status: becoming a parent, recovering from a serious illness or injury, changing jobs, going back to school or caring for an ill family member. Delta also stated it will review other requests and make exceptions, if necessary. delta.com

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AUGUST 2019

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GT tested

SANTIAGO MARRIOTT HOTEL Reviewed by Katie Skrzek

Guest Quarters: My corner room on the 16th floor provided stunning views of the nearby Andes Mountain range. The room featured a king-sized bed, chair with ottoman, desk with numerous outlets and a large television. WiFi is complimentary. The bathroom featured a combination tub and shower plus a large vanity with multiple outlets. Services/Amenities: During my visit I utilized the hotel’s lobby-level fitness center. Equipped with multiple cardio and weight machines and free weights, the 24-hour facility also offers a large area for fitness classes. The property’s spa and pool, also located within this area, provide guests with complimentary use of the pool, steam room and whirlpool. Spa treatments may be booked for a fee. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to enjoy the spa facilities during my stay. My room came with access to the executive lounge on the 23rd floor. This provided the perfect spot to grab a bottle of

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water, snack or glass of wine. The space also offers panoramic views of the mountains. I grabbed a quick breakfast there the last morning of my stay. The breakfast spread included pastries, cold meat, a small hot station, yogurt, juices, fruit and cereal. Dining options include three on-site restaurants as well as 24-hour room service. I enjoyed a phenomenal traditional Chilean feast at Latin Grill the first night of my stay. Highlights included an appetizer of mixed seafood preparations, seafood soup and grilled sea bass. I sampled the breakfast buffet at Café Med, located on the ground level of the property, the first morning of my stay. The beautiful spread included a variety of cold and hot meats, an omelet station, fresh juice, yogurt, fruit, vegetables and pastries. The property features six event rooms, with a total of more than 3,500 square feet of meeting and event space. There’s an additional option for those conducting business. The property offers a business guestroom, complete with a separate office space attached to conduct business or host meetings. For those traveling with children, a family room is available, with a play room off of the bedroom. The separate room features a queen pull-out sofa bed, a television and PlayStation games. The Santiago Marriott Hotel is located in Los Condes, the financial district of the city, close to restaurants and shopping. Located within a brief car or subway ride to the cultural center of Santiago, the property proves perfect for a business or leisure stay.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Enjoy dinner at Latin Grill, a popular spot for locals and tourists. ◆ The property is about a 15minute walk to the Manquehue subway station, a brief ride away from the cultural center of the city. ◆ Take in the beautiful views of the Andes during your stay. SANTIAGO MARRIOTT HOTEL Av. Presidente Kennedy 5741 Las Condes Región Metropolitana, Chile tel 56 2 2426 2000 marriott.com

PHOTOS: © SANTIAGO MARRIOTT HOTEL

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at the Santiago Marriott Hotel in Chile ahead of check-in and, luckily, my room was ready. While the front desk attendant checked me in, I admired the massive lobby. An elevator bank next to the front desk leads to the guestroom floors. The lobby opens up to the property’s fitness center and the Akun Lounge and Bar, with stairs and elevators leading down to event space and additional restaurants. After a swift check-in process, I made my way to my room. I appreciated the extra time to settle in before heading out for my activities for the day.

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KENWOOD INN & SPA Reviewed by Katie Skrzek

PHOTOS: © KENWOOD INN & SPA

Arrival/Check-In: We arrived at Kenwood Inn & Spa shortly before check-in. The front desk attendant went to perform a quick inspection of our room while I enjoyed a complimentary welcome glass of Champagne. She returned and asked if we needed assistance with our luggage, then escorted us to our room. Along the way she pointed out the rooms past the lobby where the daily complimentary breakfast is served as well as complimentary wine tastings. Guest Quarters: Our garden king room was located a few steps from the outdoor pool and hot tub. A small table and chairs sat on the patio just outside our room, where we sat to take in the views. Even though the room was near the pool, it felt secluded, and we didn’t hear any outside noise during our stay. The heavy blinds offered additional privacy for our ground-level room. The room boasted a comfortable California king bed, large armoire, two plush chairs with a table, a fireplace, television, two nightstands, a coffeemaker and a radio. WiFi is complimentary. There was a walk-in shower in the bathroom and robes and slippers. The layout of the rustic property felt more as though we were staying at a Mediterranean villa and not a hotel in California. As one would expect in Sonoma County, vineyards and orchards surround the property. Services/Amenities: While there isn’t a full-service restaurant

on-site, the property offers guests daily, complimentary breakfast and a selection of small plates for purchase from La Cucina kitchen. Available 11 a.m.–10 p.m., the small plates menu includes a charcuterie plate, hummus plate and wood-fired pizzas. We enjoyed our breakfast in the courtyard. The buffet menu varies day to day and generally includes pastries, fresh juice, a selection of hot and cold breakfast meats, egg dishes, fruit and a hot food station. Kenwood Inn & Spa offers guests a complimentary afternoon wine and cheese tasting. Enjoy a sampling of wines from local wineries. Complimentary Port service is available during the evenings in the lobby. We took advantage of a wine tasting one afternoon and the complimentary Port one night during our stay. On our last night we spent some time relaxing at the pool. It offered the perfect relief from the hot weather. After taking a dip, we read and relaxed on the lounge chairs. There were plenty of towels available along with a discreet receptacle for used towels. Located just next to the pool, the on-site spa was undergoing renovations during our visit. Kenwood Inn’s nearby sister property, Gaige House & Ryokan, offered spa services for Kenwood guests during the renovations. The location proves ideal for anyone visiting Sonoma County. The property lies a short drive from numerous wineries, restaurants and parks. Kenwood Inn & Spa proved a perfect property for a luxurious, relaxing stay in Sonoma County. AUGUST 2019

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Take advantage of the complimentary on-site wine tastings. ◆ Sonoma County is home to hundreds of wineries. Check at the front desk for staff recommendations and passes for discounted tastings. ◆ Guests will find two freshly baked cookies upon arrival in their room. Purchase a copy of The Kitchen at Four Sisters Inn cookbook and learn to make them yourself. KENWOOD INN & SPA 10400 Sonoma Highway Kenwood, CA 95452 tel 707 833 1293 kenwoodinn.com

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TAP AIR PORTUGAL | EXECUTIVE CLASS

SAN FRANCISCO (SFO) TO LISBON (LIS)

Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

On the Ground: I was lucky to be on board TAP Air Portugal’s first flight from San Francisco to Lisbon, the first-ever route directly connecting the U.S. West Coast to Portugal. I’d traveled from Newark (EWR) that morning, so I didn’t check in at SFO, and because of the special circumstances, I opted to forgo the lounge in order to enjoy the fanfare at the gate. This included Portuguese cuisine, a cake, a fado singer and speeches. You could feel the buzz and excitement in the air, and it was palpable what an important moment this was for both the airline and the San Francisco and Lisbon communities. A baggage snafu at SFO, outside of the airline’s control, delayed us, but once boarding commenced, it was quick and efficient.

In-Flight: This was my first time flying TAP Air Portugal, and I was eager to see what awaited me. I was familiar with the airline’s Taste the Stars chefs program, so I was surprised to see a description of the program in the menu, but none of the food options boasted the program’s logo to indicate they were chef-curated meals. I saw the designation on my return flight from Lisbon to Newark, however. The meal began with a tuna and cream cheese canapé as well as mixed

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◆ A brand-new Airbus A330-900neo jet serves the SFO–LIS route, and the modern aircraft was pristine, comfortable and offered a peaceful in-flight environment. ◆ I appreciated the complimentary in-flight messaging that allowed me to send What’s App and iMessages during the more than 10-hour flight.

nuts, followed by veal tonnato with radish and herb salad and mint pea soup. I chose the filet of beef with Madeira sauce for my entrée. I particularly enjoyed the au gratin potatoes on the side. I finished with strawberry ice cream. After recently completing our wine survey, I recognized some of the served wines from the tasting, and I was eager to try them. I found the Casa de Compostela Vinho Verde pleasant. The service was efficient if not overly effusive. After purchasing an enhanced WiFi option on board in order to get some work done, I settled in to watch a few movies and sleep. I thought the onboard movie selection lacked a bit when it came to new releases, but I found, overall, plenty of films I wanted to watch. Before landing, a light breakfast was served, including cold cuts and cheese, jam, butter, fresh fruit, a bread and pastry selection and coffee and tea. I will say, caffeine addicts beware: The coffee/tea cups are quite small, so you’ll need several cups to satisfy your cravings.

◆ I usually sleep rather fitfully on flights, but the 180-degree, lie-flat seat and calm in-flight environment were conducive to sleep; and I arrived in Lisbon the next day feeling refreshed. However, as my seat was on the aisle, I found the provided blanket a bit too large for the space, as it kept falling into the aisle or getting stuck under the cart’s wheels. ◆ The amenity kit bags feature cute scenes from Portuguese destinations. I don’t always keep the bags, but this one was unique enough to save! TAP AIR PORTUGAL flytap.com

PHOTOS: © TAP AIR PORTUGAL, © AIRBUS

Pre-Flight: TAP’s Executive Class features a 1-2-1 configuration. On this flight I was in the two-seat, middle section; however, each row features a different seat layout. For instance, on some single-aisle seats, the seat is right against the window, with the storage area to the aisle; in the next row, it’s swapped. In the middle section, either the two seats are separated by the middle storage areas or the seats are next to each other with the storage areas to the aisle. I was seated in the former. As it was a long flight, I unloaded my laptop, book and a few magazines before placing my belongings in the overhead compartment. I also plugged in my phone to charge before settling in. Flight attendants passed around welcome beverages; it was a celebration, so it seemed only fitting to opt for Champagne. Amenity kits and noisecancelling headphones, as well as a small, Portugal-made gift in honor of the inaugural flight, awaited business-class passengers at their seats.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

one on one

MICHAEL DORF CEO and Founder, City Winery

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Backpacking alone in the Austrian Alps, I was completely lost for a few days and eventually hit upon a railroad track. I walked along it less than 100 feet and found a dilapidated, abandoned train station. I looked at the schedule in German and thought I understood the train stopped there once a day at 15:17. My watch said it was 3:16; I was a bit confused, then I heard the train roll in. I got on, and off I went, my Eurail pass working. Indeed, it stopped there once per day, and I found this spot serendipitously with less than 60 seconds to spare, or I’d wait another 24 hours, hungry. One travel tip you cannot live without: Global Entry is amazing. I went through customs/passport control in less than five minutes yesterday. Best advice for business travelers: If you don’t play the frequentflyer game with one airline, use the credit card and take advantage of the clubs that go along with the system, you’re missing important opportunities to save a lot of time during work travel.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Continued focus on more intimate experiential packages sold for musical immersions with your favorite artists Best career advice you’ve received: Be patient. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Make sure you absolutely love what you are doing all day. If it is impossible to tell the difference between work and play, you have achieved success.

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ABOUT YOUR BRAND City Winery will soon celebrate its 10th anniversary. Congratulations! What can our readers expect from City Winery in the future? We will continue to grow into new markets, and our expansion in New York is also exciting. I hope to be in 20 cities or more in another 10 years, plus some foreign cities. The New York City location will relocate to Pier 57. Tell us about the new space and venue. It is an amazing location where everything we have learned in the last 10 years will be put into play. It sounds audacious, but it will be the best small venue ever in New York, or anywhere for that matter. Our restaurant spaces surrounding the club and the working winery will be really cool, and the overall functionality will be second to none. The brand focuses on environmentally friendly winemaking. What developments have you made toward this initiative? By selling about 75 percent of our wine production by the glass, we are able to serve it via our tap system, which saves truckloads of bottles every year. It allows us to avoid adding sulfites and, thus, have a more refreshing and pure wine. We are also completing the building of a larger winery production facility 90 minutes north of Manhattan; it is on a river, and we own the dam with a hydroelectric facility, allowing us to produce all the wine in that facility using self-generated electricity. So now we can also claim to be net zero energy on the production of the wine, the refrigeration and so on. Pretty cool.

PHOTO: © CITY WINERY

Name: Michael Dorf Title: CEO and founder Company, city: City Winery; New York, New York (additional locations in Chicago; Boston; Atlanta; Washington, D.C.; and Nashville; plus Philadelphia and Hudson Valley coming soon) Number of employees: 1,000-plus Recent project: Raising money for Solar Responders, a great nonprofit working to solve the electric grid challenge during storms in Puerto Rico using renewable energy at all first responder stations First job: I never worked for anyone. I sold my beer can collection at a flea market at age 12, had a lawn mowing business at 13–14, built rec rooms on contract at 15–16, did more flea market business, then started the Knitting Factory. Little-known fact about you: I really love hiking, going off into the woods almost every weekend for at least a two-hour hike/climb. Once a year for the last 31 years, I go away out of cell range and spend a week off the grid, going deep into a journey while on some mountain expedition.

technology

EAT, DRINK AND BE SMART Connect with cool tools to improve your enjoyment of food and wine.

BY JACK GUY

PHOTOS: © ANOVA, © MYOENO, © CORAVIN, © AEROGARDEN

ANOVA PRECISION COOKER Sous-vide cooking — sealing food in a plastic bag and cooking it in hot water — means you can slow-cook for hours with precise results. The Precision Cooker from Anova takes the idea and brings it into the 21st century. You can control the WiFi-enabled device from anywhere using a companion app, plus it clips onto the side of any pan before easily packing away for storage. Pop a meal into the cooker before work and program the device to have dinner ready when you walk through the door. $129. anovaculinary.com

MYOENO If you have an interest in wine but struggle to recognize the distinct characteristics of each bottle, MyOeno is here to help. Dip the small scanner into your wine glass and it can measure different properties, such as acidity or the level of tannins, which it displays in its free app. MyOeno makes a great gift for wine fans who want to take their interest to the next level. $99. myoeno.com

CORAVIN WINE PRESERVATION SYSTEM This incredible device was invented by an MIT nuclear engineering grad who decided to turn his considerable intellect to wine. Coravin lets you drink just one glass from a bottle of wine without spoiling the rest. It’s perfect for when you want to have a special glass without committing to drinking the whole bottle. It’s also great for cutting down on your alcohol intake, as there is no longer pressure to finish a bottle before it spoils. From $199.95. coravin.com

AEROGARDEN HARVEST ELITE WIFI This indoor gardening system means you can grow your own herbs, vegetables and salad greens no matter where you live. The soil-free system uses more than 100 LEDs to create perfect growing conditions inside your home. WiFi connectivity allows a companion app to guide you through the growing process, up to five times faster than in normal soil. It’s a great way to brighten up your home and keep healthy foods in stock. $200. aerogarden.com

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wine & spirits

OREGON ORIGINALS A second generation takes the helm of Willamette Valley’s pioneering wineries. By Eunice Fried

FAMILY BLEND:

Sisters Anna Maria Ponzi and Luisa Ponzi (Ponzi Vineyards), siblings Alison Sokol Blosser and Alex Sokol Blosser (Sokol Blosser), and siblings Anna Campbell and Adam Campbell (Elk Cove Vineyards) PHOTOS: © ANNA CAMPBELL

has Oregon emale more f kers winema ia, aliforn than C g i e hav n despit r e quart only a h grape as muc e. acreag

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THEY BELIEVED IT WAS a path to a bright future, pioneers who, some 50 years ago, moved to Oregon and planted Pinot Noir and other grape varietals not usually found in that state. Never mind others told them those varietals were not meant for Oregon’s soil and climate, that they would never flourish in that northwestern state, that their idea was a culde-sac in failure. These early wine enthusiasts took no heed. They began to arrive in the 1960s. By the early 1970s, there were five established wineries in Oregon. Today the state boasts 700-plus wineries, and together they sell more than 3.5 million cases of wine a year. Many came as families; others had children during their early years as vintners. Now the second generation runs a number of these pioneer family-owned wineries, among them Elk Cove, Ponzi and Sokol Blosser. Pat and Joe Campbell began Elk Cove Vineyards in 1974. Now their daughter Anna is the winery’s creative director and their son Adam is the winemaker. Nancy and Dick Ponzi moved to Oregon in the late 1960s and began Ponzi AUGUST 2019

Vineyards in 1970; their daughters now run the winery. Anna Maria Ponzi serves as president and director of sales, with Luisa Ponzi as the winemaker. Bill Blosser and Susan Sokol Blosser started their winery in 1971, now headed by their children, co-presidents Alison and Alex. All three wineries list among those founded in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. This second generation of winemakers call themselves, appropriately, the Second Generation Vintners. And to celebrate the importance to Oregon’s wine history of continuously family-owned and -operated wineries, the three joined together to create the Second Generation Vintners’ Oregon Originals Pinot Noir Cuvée, known for short as 2GV. The wine blends the grapes of all three wineries, each coming from a different kind of soil, each winery having made and aged its own wine and then contributed it to the final blend. This beautiful, rich, well-balanced, silky-textured wine offers forward fruit flavors and brims with the aromas and pleasures of a fine Pinot Noir ($100). Did someone say Oregon could not make fine Pinot Noir? Try 2GV.

wealth

TARIFFS AND TRADE WARS

PHOTO: © ZAGORSKID - DREAMSTIME.COM

What tactics can businesses use in this time of uncertainty?

AS WE HAVE ALL HEARD, the United States is involved in a trade war with China. It has been ongoing for some time, and the tariffs continue to increase — what began as a 10 percent tariff now attaches a 25 percent tariff to many goods. The administration may levy additional tariffs which could be 10 or 25 percent. Uncertainty is the constant. Consequently, individuals and businesses face some difficult decisions. Do you begin to work with suppliers not in China to avoid incurring tariffs? If so, can you receive the same quality when you work with a new supplier? Do you run into timing issues affecting your ability to produce the required amount of product? Do you stay the course and hope an agreement is reached and the tariffs are removed or lowered? Or do you just stand up and scream?

HERE ARE SOME THINGS YOU COULD DO: 1. Budget your inventory. Make sure you have what is needed but not too much (in the event the tariffs are reversed and you then have product at too high a cost). 2. Consider your pricing. Work with your customers and determine where there are opportunities to raise prices. 3. Move the manufacturing of the products. Can you find a supplier in a different country, or can your supplier move its factory? We have heard many stories of companies misclassifying goods or attempting to alter the origin country to circumvent the tariffs. This is not a secret, and U.S. Customs is aware of these tactics. We suggest you don’t do anything improper. The best advice is to be nimble. If you are able to delay your purchases, it may allow for some clarity and the ability to have a better understanding of future pricing. Take this opportunity to review your finances and assess your situation; you will be better off for it.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice. Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

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tours

TAKE TO THE STREETS Discover the true taste of a destination on a street food tour. THE CULINARY WORLD is full of restaurants where reservations can take months to score and where elaborate dishes come adorned in edible gold or delicate shavings of rare white truffles and expensive caviar — which is why it’s so refreshing some of the biggest names in gastronomy have admitted their favorite foods while on the road include “meat on a stick” and street vendor sandwiches. Chef Gordon Ramsey raved about South Korean street foods on his recent visit to Seoul, where he sampled mayak kimbap. Chef and Chopped judge Scott Conant claimed his favorite meal is chicken and rice with white sauce from a New York City halal street cart. And late chef Anthony Bourdain was famous for his love of Vietnamese street food. Street food has grown in popularity over the past few years, and street vendors have earned the chance to receive Michelin stars for their creations since 2016. But just like any restaurant or diner, not all street food is created equal, and that’s where street food tours come in. Local experts and even local chefs will guide visitors along the streets of street food hot spots like Singapore and Hong Kong or even Chicago and Portland. Culinary Backstreets began as a food blog called Istanbul Eats, run by then-İstanbul residents and food and wine enthusiasts Ansel Mullins and Yigal Schleifer. The blog took off, and so did the company as the duo published their first food guide for İstanbul and first culinary walk in İstanbul in the same year. As the company grew, so did the tour offerings. Today the company operates in more than a dozen cities — ranging from Barcelona and Queens to Tokyo and Tbilisi — where their tours are led by passionate locals who range from welltraveled food writers to highly-trained chefs and cookbook authors. A Chef ’s Tour began with the aim to narrow down the many options within a destination and point hungry visitors directly to the best of best. Each tour is led by chefs, cooks and passionate gastronomes who traveled the streets of their destinations many times over to find the best eats as far from the tourist track as possible. A Chef ’s Tour offers 13 different tours, themed for each destination, like the Private Mumbai Secret Street Eats tour, the Old Markets and Beyond:

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BY KRISTY ALPERT

STREET EATS:

Woman eating mussels at the food market in Barcelona (top), and Hong Kong street food: stinky tofu with chili sauce (left) PHOTOS: PHOTO 101861381 © ROSSHELEN - DREAMSTIME.COM © KATYENKA - DREAMSTIME.COM

Kuala Lumpur Food Tour, and the Private Bogotá Food Feast and Coffee Tasting Experience. Other operators, like Urban Adventures by Intrepid and Viator, look to locals for the best recommendations on where to eat on the street, where tours can range from an hour-long journey through Bali’s best street carts or a full day of digging into San Francisco’s lesser-known street vendors.

ong Kong, Although H nd Bangkok a are Singapore ed as often laud best having the quick r streets fo a’s ic eats, Amer reet food hottest st ns include destinatio iami and Honolulu, M ns. New Orlea

spas

WILD AT HEART Restore and rejuvenate with the healing powers of nature in Western Québec. BY DEBRA BOKUR

NATURAL SURROUNDINGS: Nordik Spa-Nature

PHOTO: © NORDIK SPA-NATURE

SEEKING OUT PLACES embraced by natural surroundings is a crucial component to a healing journey for many travelers. I’ve always been a big advocate of nature’s healing powers and the verity of the ancient Chinese proverb that credits nature, time and patience as being the greatest of all physicians. Western Québec’s Outaouais region proves one of those corners of the planet that seem to be perfectly in balance, whether covered in layers of sparkling snow, adorned in blazing shades of autumn, garlanded in spring blooms or wrapped in sunshine and a rush of summer birdsong — making it ideal for a spa-based getaway. At Nordik Spa-Nature in the small town of Chelsea, I dash beneath a cascading waterfall that delivers icy water into a small, cold tarn, then sink gratefully into a rock-rimmed soaking pool fed by a hot thermal spring. This corner of the property is one of several that offer an opportunity for Scandinavian-style bathing, alternating heat, cold and periods of rest. A destination unto itself, the vast spa complex is divided into three sections: Kaskad, where

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the observance of silence creates a tranquil experience; Borëa, where whispering is allowed; and the Panorama Area, where socializing is absolutely fine (except for the silent sauna areas). The spa features seven dry saunas and two steam baths that include a traditional Russian banya, where a blend of hot and cold treatments embraces the tradition of being struck repeatedly by a venik brush composed of bound birch branches and fragrant eucalyptus. The practice is said to quicken circulation and facilitate cleansing, pore-purifying perspiration. After a full day of sampling the wet and steamy options and relaxing in several windowed cabins fitted with crackling wood fires, I meet my therapist for a Lumëa anti-aging facial. During the hourlong treatment, my face is gently exfoliated with a vitamin C-rich masque. My therapist, Crystel, delivers a soothing scalp massage while time allows an application of a toning cream to penetrate my skin. My face glows after the relaxing session, and I’m inspired to make one last circuit in the hot Vapora sauna before taking a dip in

Rivër, the coldest of the pools at the base of the waterfall. After an additional 20 minutes in a suspended, heated, cocoon-like hammock, it’s time to head to Parc Omega. I arrive at my small, private log cabin in the nature preserve well after dark and fall almost immediately asleep. The rising morning sun wakes me, pouring in through the wall of glass at the foot of my bed. The window wall faces an enormous enclosure housing a pack of gray timber wolves, rescued and made at home within the safety of the park. A lone wolf stands just on the other side of the glass, staring in at me, his curiosity perhaps piqued by the movements of the bedcovers when I sat up. I’m startled and enchanted all at once and sit on the floor facing the glass for several hours. Other majestic members of the pack approach the glass, clearly intrigued by the new exhibit in pajamas just on the other side. An overwhelming sensory balm flows from the spaces where we intersect with the natural world. It was naturalist and writer John Burroughs who said, “I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.” His words resonate as I drive away to find the Hôtel Fairmont Le Château Montebello, an enormous cedar log cabin estate not far from Parc Omega. I’m here to soak in a little more of Québec’s nature, and I begin with a few early laps in the hotel’s heated pool. The 75-foot stretch of water sparkles beneath an elevated ceiling in a separate log structure accessed from the main hotel via an underground passageway. The massive, beautifully painted ceiling above the water’s surface is supported by a series of artfully decorated totem poles. Later, settled by the fire in the spa’s Salon La Clairière (which translates to “forest clearing”), there’s time to contemplate the wooded surroundings before a maple sugar body scrub. The treatment is delivered with a decadent helping of Bio-Maple compound, an antioxidant powerhouse drawn from maple tree resin. The last stop on my wild wellness tour is The Wakefield Mill Hotel & Spa in the tiny riverside town of Wakefield. The old mill-turned-lodge features a pounding river coursing through a forest next to the stone hotel building, with outdoor hot tubs constructed with unobstructed views of the cascading water of McLaren Falls. It’s completely mesmerizing. As darkness descends, I leave the small Spa Eau Vive to warm myself in the red cedar sauna by the river and to soak in the water of the jetted hot pool beneath a silvery waning moon. Before leaving for the drive back to Ottawa and my flight back to the real world, there’s time for a yoga class on the riverside terrace and a Dream Weaver massage next to the waterfall, presented within the spa forest in a canopy tent. The water is the only necessary soundtrack, punctuated by the calls of birds going about their business in the tall trees: nature’s healing powers beautifully in attendance.

QUIET TIME:

Hôtel Fairmont Le Château Montebello (above), and Wakefield Mill Hotel and Spa (left) PHOTOS: © HÔTEL FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU MONTEBELLO, © WAKEFIELD MILL HOTEL AND SPA

Hôtel Fairmont Le Château Montebello 392 Rue Notre Dame Montebello, QC J0V 1L0 Canada tel 1 819 423 6341 fairmont.com/Montebello Nordik Spa-Nature 16 Chemin Nordik Chelsea, QC J9B 2P7 Canada tel 1 819 827 1111 lenordik.com The Wakefield Mill Hotel & Spa 60 Chemin Mill Wakefield, QC J0X 3G0 Canada tel 1 819 459 1838 wakefieldmill.com

AUGUST 2019

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golf

ON THE WATERFRONT Prepare for a wet and wild time at Glen Dornoch in Myrtle Beach.

DANGEROUS PASSAGE: Hole 9

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

WE FREQUENTLY PLAY Glen Dornoch Waterway Golf Links on our annual Myrtle Beach tour, but the course hasn’t made the pages of Global Traveler for a long time. The facility occupies 270 acres of environmentally sensitive and preserved land (due to golf) on the north side of the Grand Strand. Water features heavily on 12 of the 18 holes, and the Intercoastal Waterway threads its way around the course. Add in a little Southern charm with century-old live oaks, and you have a lovely golf experience. Designed by Clyde Johnston, the course opened in 1996. Johnston designed many courses in Myrtle Beach and Florida, including Jacksonville Golf and Country Club, which he will refresh this year after his original design some 30 years ago. At Glen Dornoch, passing boat traffic makes for an interesting diversion while you search for your ball in the high grass. Glen Dornoch belongs to The Glens Golf Group, which includes sister courses Heather Glen (see the November 2015 Global Traveler), Possum Trot and Shaftesbury Glen; the latter two might be referred

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BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

to as “tracks,” or courses not up to par. Glen Dornoch and Heather Glen remain the shining stars of The Glens Golf Group. Glen Dornoch just finished a total replacement of greens, and by the looks of them, they were not succeeding. Frankly, the greens were a huge disappointment and may result in a future no-play for the annual trip. Early by my standards, before 9 a.m., we teed up in a threesome including John Ecklund of Philadelphia; Gerry Gallagher, my older brother from Dallas; and yours truly. The Glen will never be the same.

HOLE 5 | 590 yards, par 5 – Wet Not Want Not

“Wet Not Want Not,” a monster by any measure, presented a daunting task for Gerry, John and me as we teed up. The hole is so named due to the significant marsh you must clear on the second shot. From the tee box, Gerry drove a ball so far into the woods, woodpeckers are still telling stories of the ricochets. John and I drove decent drives

favoring the left side in anticipation of carrying the 66 yards of wetlands before us. Although 66 yards is really nothing, as most know, 66 can feel like 666 when you hit your 3-wood fat and muddy. I cleared the hazard and landed on the deep green, walking away with my only par on the front nine. Wet is not what you want on Hole 5!

HOLE 9 | 460 yards, par 4 – Sea Cruise

Ranked as the No. 1-handicapped hole on Glen Dornoch, “Sea Cruise” intimidated us, as the Intercoastal Waterway lines the entire right side. So dangerous is this passage, boaters are asked to sign a waiver that golf balls may strike craft, causing their sinking … not really. But when we teed off, John was ready to steer his ball far from harm’s way, landing left of the fairway but safe. Gerry and I took a more dangerous route, teetering on the right side and nearly “seeing” the sea. The deceptive approach to the green goes slightly uphill; John took Hole 9, closing out the first half of Glen Dornoch.

HOLE 16 | 431 yards, par 4 – Beauty Is a Beast

There is no question your second shot to the green will be breathtaking with the waterway beyond and a sunken green crisscrossed with water and footbridges. But you are not here for photo ops. Chills will tingle up your spine as you imagine the harm that can happen, and I saw it firsthand. From the tee, do what John did and hug the right bunker. From there,

he executed a shot that looked lost but was found sitting on the green. A long putt up to the flag and a few expletives made for the best score on the Beast.

WAY OVER YONDER: Hole 18

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

HOLE 17 | 212 yards, par 3 – Island in the Sky

This might be the most respected and admired hole on the course. It is virtually an island green where you must clear marsh in front to an overly bunkered green. The rear bunker, backed with railroad ties, makes overstriking the ball a comical sight. From the tee box, a tree partially blocks the green, making a somewhat blind shot. A blindfold might have helped as we thrust ourselves into our swings, catching traps, bulkheads and greens. Even so, Johnny and I earned the best scores, each carding a 4.

HOLE 18 | 455 yards, par 4 – Where You Went

On this great challenging hole, you face two alternatives: Aim straight and hope you will clear the marsh straight ahead while not turning left into the Intercoastal, or chicken out and take the fairway right as a layup. Gerry teed up with all intentions of following the two of us who barely made it across, but he slapped his drive to the bailout/layup area on the right. John and I drove over but too far right for a clean second shot to the green. It was Gerry who pulled out the sneak attack and hit the green from the right fairway to par the final hole — forever coining the term “where you went.”

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GLEN DORNOCH WATERWAY GOLF LINKS 4840 Glen Dornoch Way Little River, SC 29566 tel 843 249 2541 glendornoch.com

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chefs

SIP AND SAVOR Executive Chef David Belknap brings his signature style to AC Hotel Columbus Dublin. BY KIMBERLY KROL

me the art of Mexican cuisine; and two years ago, when we were living in Playa del Carmen, we were doing cooking classes and catering events together. You’ll notice a lot of my cuisine has Mexican and Latin American undertones. She also keeps me in check when I take too much creative freedom with a dish.

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? Every destination has inspired me and can be seen at least in some small part of VASO’s cuisine. It’s not always recreating a dish you had before but more so incorporating the flavors and ingredients that travel with you. For example, lemongrass, kafir lime and fish sauce from Thailand, or plantains, pigeon peas and tamarind from Puerto Rico. All the flavor memories just tumble around in your mind and can end up being a truly miraculous dish without any particular lineage behind it. My wife is Mexican and believes more in tradition and heritage, while I tend to pair ingredients regardless of origin. WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Thomas Keller — he, like many of us, started at the bottom and worked his way to greatness, but he didn’t make it without his fair share of failures, either. He’s had his challenges, but through steady and persistent determination, he continues to be a pillar of our industry. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? Everyone you work with has an impact; but if I had to choose one, I would say my wife, Alexandra. When we first met 13 years ago, she taught

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? Interactive cooking will make a comeback. The days of sharing an expensive pot of fondue may have fizzled, but we still see huge interest in people taking part in the dinner production, like tableside service where things are prepared in front of you but outside of the kitchen. We hosted a dinner at VASO where everyone made their own gin and tonic at the table, and the guests got such a kick out of it. With the invasion of smartphones into our daily dining norms, interactive service forces diners out of their “selfie” world and back to enjoying an experience and engaging and sharing stories among people. VASO AC Hotel by Marriott Columbus Dublin 6540 Riverside Drive Dublin, OH 43017 tel 614 698 2525 vasodublin.com

PHOTOS: © AC HOTEL COLUMBUS DUBLIN

WASHING DISHES AT A COUNTRY club as a teenager inspired David Belknap’s love of cooking. In order to pursue his dream, he spent five years working for different chefs before becoming sous chef at K2U in his hometown of Columbus, Ohio. He’s come home with his current position as executive chef at AC Hotel Columbus Dublin’s Spanishinspired rooftop lounge and restaurant, VASO. This isn’t his first hotel restaurant foray. After graduating as valedictorian from Pittsburgh’s Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, he joined the team at The Ritz-Carlton Orlando, Grande Lakes, then ventured to Puerto Rico; Denver; and Naples, Florida, before landing a dream job working under Thomas Keller at the 3-Michelin-starred PerSe. After his own NYC venture, L&W Oyster Co., he moved to Mexico. Home called to him, and he relocated to Columbus to raise a family and bring his culinary excellence to AC Hotel Columbus Dublin.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? New York City, of course. It has everything you could ever want — and usually an entire neighborhood of it. Such a diverse number of people living in New York makes it a mecca for culinary exploration, not to mention the insanely talented, Michelin star-trained chefs working around the city. We all spend years in the fine-dining world but inevitably branch off to explore our own styles. That gives rise to these small, hole-in-the-wall restaurants putting out Michelin-quality food without all the pomp and circumstance.

cruising

A MOST MOVEABLE FEAST From shore market to galley, culinary cruises satisfy seafaring foodies. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER FINE CRUISES ARE SYNONYMOUS with fine cuisine, and luxury cruise lines fine-tune dining programs with that in mind. From visits to local farms and markets to cooking schools where passengers fix their own repasts, the latest culinary trends at sea promise passengers a deeper immersion in what’s behind the menu. Silversea Cruises provides a case in point. Silversea already offers up to 10 special culinary cruises a year, each featuring an onboard Relais & Châteaux L’Ecole de Chefs cooking school at no extra cost to passengers, but the cruise line is set to introduce an even more comprehensive culinary program. With the launch of the 596-passenger Silver Moon in August 2020, a new restaurant will hoist the flag of a new culinary program called S.A.L.T., which stands for “sea and land tastes.” S.A.L.T. enhances the experience of fine dining by focusing on local food production, procurement and preparation. Passengers will trace regional cuisines back to the source on shore excursions to the fields and markets where key ingredients are raised and bartered. Guests then savor the dishes of a just-visited destination in the S.A.L.T. restaurant and participate in lectures and cooking classes at the S.A.L.T. food lab, with local chefs on hand. While Silversea uses shore excursions and a new restaurant to bring guests to the nexus of regional cuisines port by port, other luxury lines help passengers get an inside view of food preparation at sea. Seabourn, for example, offers a Shopping with the Chef program, limited to 30 participants, with market tours at select stops, where the ship’s chef writes up recipe cards for the dishes he will prepare. Windstar Cruises also offers its guests the chance to join chefs as they scour the local produce stalls, provide shopping tips and dish out ample fresh samples along the way. Cruise lines have also begun to tailor their cooking school programs to foodies hungering to cook up their own meals at sea. The Culinary Arts Kitchen on Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ Seven Seas Explorer now features 18 cooking stations for passenger use, with instructions on preparing regional dishes and more (such as how to brew a proper British tea). And on two of its ships, Riviera and Marina, Oceania Cruises invites passengers to shop with its chefs in port and then prepare dishes themselves at fully equipped state-of-the-art cooking stations — a shore-to-galley tour de force for DIY foodies. As luxury cruise lines expand their cooking classes and culinary shore excursions, they give their guests the means to transform any cruise into a culinary one that goes well beyond the usual treasure trove of specialty cafés, caviar and free-flowing Champagne.

gram ’ pro e l b n Ta s to itche rket ‘K a ses ’ s m rpri ng ise i u u n s r r l C o a cean om m resh loc and f ng O ngers fr — i g k s n i i e l r e V c u s a t s a s pa barn e meat. s fe take ocal nner l i d t th f o ate et p ou k o s p a priv o b t how as a s on such n o i ruct inst

SOURCE TO SHIP:

With Silversea Cruises’ S.A.L.T. program, guests see where the ingredients come from and how they are prepared, as well as enjoy local delicacies on excursions in places such as Bali, shown here. PHOTOS: © SILVERSEA CRUISES

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2019 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers__________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class___________________________________________________________________ International First Class_________________________________________________________ Domestic First Class_____________________________________________________________ Onboard Service ________________________________________________________________ Lounges _________________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendants________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms ______________________________________________________ Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________ Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_______________________________________________________________ Award Redemption______________________________________________________________ Customer Service _______________________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand______________________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________________ China____________________________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe__________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ Mexico___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East _________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China)____________________________________________________ The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ South America___________________________________________________________________

Best Individual Hotel in the World ________________________________________________ International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World___________________________________ Elite-Level Program____________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________________ Award Redemption____________________________________________________________ Customer Service_____________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ South Korea___________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________ The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program ______________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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feature

Wines on the Wing 2019 GT presents the winners of the 16th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. BY EUNICE FRIED | PHOTOS BY THE ADRIANNE PHOTO

THE CONCEPT OF A WORKING WINERY in the middle of Manhattan became a reality when Michael Dorf rented a building on Varick Street and opened City Winery in 2008. By adding to the winery a restaurant; concert hall; and spaces for receptions, parties and meetings, he created a winning combination. So much so that in the ensuing years, he opened locations in five other cities: Chicago; Nashville; Atlanta; Boston; and

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Washington, D.C. Now a major change is coming to the original City Winery. Because the Varick Street building sold and is about to be demolished, City Winery closed July 31 and plans to reopen in a new, larger location at the Hudson River Park on Pier 57 early in 2020. Until then, it will continue its services at Manhattan’s Pier 26. Before City Winery locked its Varick Street doors for the final time, Global Traveler held its 2019 Wines on the Wing international airline wine competition there with 23 wine professionals judging wines currently being served in first class and business class on international flights throughout the world. And in a smaller category, they also judged wines served on first- and business-class flights beginning and ending in North America. As in all our professional wine competitions, the wines were served “blind” — that is, poured into numbered glasses — and judges were told only the general category of the wines they were tasting (for example, Chablis or Zinfandel). They never saw a wine bottle. They tested and tasted and pondered each wine, and then they wrote their opinions. When the judges’ ratings were later evaluated, the airline whose wines added up to the highest score among first-class international service was American Airlines.

“This award is a direct reflection of the investments we’ve made in the premium customer experience, and American is honored to be recognized by Global Traveler,” said Janelle Anderson, vice president, Global Marketing, American Airlines. “Together with our master sommelier, Bobby Stuckey, we focus on designing a wine list that will give our guests something new while also providing them with wines from their favorite regions.” To achieve this honor, Bobby Stuckey and Intervine, the airline’s wine management partner, taste more than 1,600 wines from 16 countries each year. In total, the airline opens 1,320,000 bottles annually on its first- and business-class international flights. Among American’s highest-scoring first-class wines were its Champagne, Bollinger La Grande Année 2008; the whites Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet 2015 and Simonnet Febvre Les Clos Chablis 2014; and the reds RoseRock Pinot Noir 2015 by Drouhin Oregon, and Masi Riserva Costasera Amarone Classico 2012. The highest-scoring airline among international business-class service entries was Etihad Airways. Its Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut tied for top place among business-class Champagnes, while its Château Moulin Haut-Laroque 2012 was the highest-scoring red wine in business class, and its Grosset Springvale Riesling 2016 finished among the highest-

scoring business-class white wines. “These prestigious awards give us the opportunity to showcase our innovative beverage portfolio,” said Linda Celestino, vice president, Guest Services and Delivery, Etihad. “Our boutique inflight cellar focuses on Old- and New-World wines with a range of both subtle and intense flavors, ensuring we offer wines to delight all palates.” Singapore Airlines did remarkably well, with high-scoring wines in nearly every category. It ranked among the five top-scoring first-class airlines, while its Champagne and a white wine finished among the best in their categories. It is also one of the highest-scoring business-class airlines, its wines among the top Champagnes and red wines. “Our commitment to the traveler is at the forefront of our in-flight wine program, and it gives us great pride to be named one of the top five scoring airlines in Global Traveler’s airline wine competition,” said Betty Wong, divisional vice president, Inflight Services and Design, Singapore Airlines. “We want to keep the palates of our frequent flyers excited with a new label delivered on board every few months. Our wine consultants source small-batch wines, many previously unavailable in flight. We are particularly pleased to see the fine showing of our Meursault and Château Tour Haut-Caussan wines.” In a move to diversify its wine program, Singapore Airlines recently

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE TOP INTERNATIONAL FIRST-CLASS WINES ON THE WING 1. American Airlines 2. All Nippon Airways 3. Air France 4. Singapore Airlines 5. Etihad Airways TOP INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS-CLASS WINES ON THE WING 1. Etihad Airways 2. United Airlines 3. Aeromexico 4. All Nippon Airways 5. Tie: Air Tahiti Nui Singapore Airlines TOP CHAMPAGNES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS 1. Krug Grande Cuvée (Air France) 2. Bollinger La Grande Année 2008 (American Airlines) 3. Tie: Krug Brut 2004 (All Nippon Airways) Krug Brut 2004 (Singapore Airlines) 4. Tie: Lanson Black Label Brut (Delta Air Lines) Charles Heidsieck Brut 2006 (Etihad Airways)

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introduced an extensive selection of artisanal wines. For example, it now can offer a wide selection of wines from Burgundy with 47 labels, many from small producers and a number that are Grand Cru; they will be rotated over 18 months. The airline also announced it will soon begin offering a variety of Champagnes. On average, Singapore serves more than 900,000 bottles of wine in first class and business class each year. United Airlines also showed well, with its wines scoring among the highest in the International Business Class and North America categories. As Master Sommelier, Doug Frost said, “Our goal is to offer a diverse group of wines that all of our customers can enjoy.” To which Charles Gmunde, vice president, Catering Operations, added, “We are proud of the selection of Champagne and wines we offer and take pride in our mix of well-known brands and lesser-known offerings. It creates a unique inflight experience for United customers.” Air France excelled as one of the five top-scoring first-class airlines. Its Krug Grande Cuvée was judged the best Champagne in first class, and its Château Lynch-Bages 2008 was rated one of the top red wines. Aeromexico scored well among the top international business-class airlines, with its Jacquart Brut Mosaïque Cham-

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pagne tying for first place and its Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 scoring as a top business-class red. In the North America category, its Champagne was the highest scorer, while its reds and whites were among the winners in every category. Of the airlines taking part in this year’s competition, 17 are members of airline alliances. The alliance whose member airlines scored the highest average this year is oneworld, represented in the competition by American Airlines and LATAM. Homer wrote wine can set “the wisest man to sing” and to dance as well. While our wine judges are obviously wise, none of them sang or danced. Instead, they did what they do best — they judged the wines before them, a talent well worth a song and a dance.

HOW WE JUDGE

To participate in Global Traveler’s competition, airlines throughout the world that operate long-haul international first-class service and/ or business-class service are invited to submit two white wines, two red wines and one Champagne or other sparkling wine currently on their wine lists, as well as the wine lists themselves. The same rules apply to our North America category, which includes airlines with first-class and/or business-class service beginning and ending in North America. All wines are coded and divided into flights, or categories, according to their type. For example, all New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc submitted would be judged together, as would all Rioja. Wines are presented to judges in code-marked glasses. Judges are told only the type of wine and, when appropriate (vintage Champagne, for example), the year. If judges feel a

WINNERS’ CIRCLE

wine is flawed, a reserve bottle is poured. Professional assistants pour the wines, and GT staff monitor the tasting. Each wine is judged on a modified Davis 20-point scale. The judges’ individual scores for each wine are added and averaged, and the averaged scores of an airline’s submissions are totaled. Individual wines with the highest scores and the airlines with the highest total scores win Wines on the Wing awards.

TOP CHAMPAGNES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS 1. Tie: Jacquart Brut Mosaïque (Aeromexico) Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut (Etihad Airways) 2. Tie: Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve (Air Tahiti Nui) Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve (Singapore Airlines) 3. Tie: Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut (Aeroflot) Laurent-Perrier Brut (Air New Zealand) 4. Ayala 2009 (United Airlines) 5. Lanson Black Label Brut (Delta Air Lines) TOP FIVE WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS 1. Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 2016 (Singapore Airlines) 2. Joseph Drouhin Chassagne Montrachet 2015 (American Airlines) 3. Simonnet Febvre Les Clos Chablis 2014 (American Airlines) 4. Domaine Laroche Chablis 2014 (All Nippon Airways) 5. Domaine Verget Pouilly-Fuissé 2017 (All Nippon Airways) TOP FIVE WHITE WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS 1. Bouchard Père et Fils Mâcon 2016 (All Nippon Airways) 2. Grosset Springvale Riesling 2016, Australia (Etihad Airways) 3. Domaine Verget Mâcon-Villages 2016 (Air Tahiti-Nui) 4. Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 2017 (United Airlines) 5. Casa de Compostela Alvarinho 2017, Portugal (TAP Air Portugal)

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE TOP FIVE RED WINES INTERNATIONAL FIRST CLASS 1. Château Léoville-Barton 2012, Saint-Julien, Bordeaux (All Nippon Airways) 2. RoseRock Zéphirine Pinot Noir 2015, Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon (American Airlines) 3. Château Giscours 2011, Margaux, Bordeaux (All Nippon Airways) 4. Château Lynch-Bages 2008, Pauillac, Bordeaux (Air France) 5. Masi Riserva Costasera Amarone Classico 2012 (American Airlines) TOP FIVE RED WINES INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS CLASS 1. Château Moulin Haut-Laroque 2012, Fronsac, Bordeaux (Etihad Airways) 2. Tie: Bramare Malbec 2013, Argentina (Etihad Airways) Château Rauzan-Ségla 2006, Margaux, Bordeaux (Singapore Airlines) 3. Château Haut-Caussan 2015, Médoc, Bordeaux (Singapore Airlines) 4. Petit Castel 2017, Domaine du Castel, Israel (EL AL Israel Airlines) 5. Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Sonoma, California (Aeromexico) BEST NORTH AMERICAN FIRST CLASS/ BUSINESS CLASS WINES ON THE WING 1. American Airlines 2. United Airlines 3. Aeromexico 4. Delta Air Lines BEST NORTH AMERICAN CHAMPAGNE/SPARKLING WINE 1. Jacquart Brut Mosaïque (Aeromexico) 2. Ayala 2009 (United Airlines) 3. Mionetto Prosecco Brut (Delta Air Lines) 4. Lanson Black Label Brut (American Airlines)

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JUDGES

certified wine instructor.

CESAR BAEZA is an oenologist and a consultant for the wine industry. A native of Chile, he studied winemaking there and in France, Spain and California and worked at several wineries. For 20 years he was wine master and co-owner of Brotherhood Winery in New York.

JOHN FANNING is general manager of Hakkasan, New York. He has been wine director and/or general manager of other restaurants in New York including The Lambs Club, SD26, Accademia di Vino, Il Trulli, Beppe, Felidia, Coco Pazzo and Palio and in Rome, Bramante and San Michelle.

JOHN BRECHER is senior editor of Grape Collective. He and his wife, Dorothy Gaiter, were wine columnists at The Wall Street Journal from 1998 to 2010 and are also the authors of four books on wine.

FRED FERRETTI is a wine and food writer whose articles have appeared in many national publications. Formerly a New York Times reporter, he was also a columnist for Gourmet magazine for many years.

J. SCOTT CARNEY, MS, is the dean of wine studies at the International Culinary Center. The center has schools in New York City and in Silicon Valley, California. BETH COTENOFF, DWS, a senior vice president at R/West, has 20 years’ experience in wine and spirits. She worked in Paris and with Sopexa/Food & Wines from France. She earned the WSET diploma in Wine & Spirits and is a

XAVIER FLOURET is owner of Cognac One, LLC., a national wine importer and New York wine wholesaler. The company focuses on sustainable and organic privately owned wine estates throughout the world that specialize in the best expressions of terroir and wine appellations. DAVID FRIESER, the fine wine purchaser at Park Avenue Liquor

Shop in Manhattan, is a frequent wine lecturer and has been professionally involved with wine for more than 30 years. DOROTHY J. GAITER is senior editor of Grape Collective. She and her husband, John Brecher, were wine columnists at The Wall Street Journal from 1998 to 2010 and are also the authors of four books on wine. CURTIS GREEN is president and founder of TenFolk Enterprises, a wine education and marketing company created to broaden interest in wine among African Americans. He also publishes SlitelyChilled.com, the online magazine geared to the AfricanAmerican wine drinker. DAVID LECOMTE is chief winemaker at City Winery. A native of France’s Rhône Valley, he earned degrees in viticulture and winemaking in France and worked in French, American and Chinese wineries before making wine in the heart of Manhattan.

WINNERS’ CIRCLE

As president of the Wine and Spirits Program, HARRIET LEMBECK has taught consumers and wine trade personnel for 35 years. She is the author of the 6th and 7th editions of Grossman’s Guide to Wine, Beer and Spirits and is a contributor to Beverage Dynamics Magazine.

President of her own company, Cornerstone Communications, MARSHA PALANCI has managed media relations emphasizing wine for 20 years. Previously she served as vice president for Schieffelin & Co., where she worked with Dom Pérignon, Moët & Chandon and Marqués de Riscal.

BOB SHACK is owner and president of HB Wine Merchants/R. Shack Selections and of Clos Robert Winery in Sonoma, California. Formerly he served as vice president and manager of the Premiere Wine Merchants Division of Rémy Martin Amerique for 20 years.

GILLES MARTIN serves as the winemaker and director of operations at Sparkling Pointe Winery on Long Island, New York, and as a consultant to many other Long Island wineries. French-born, he studied winemaking at Montpelier and has worked at Roederer Estate and Delas Frères.

LIZ PALMER is the author of The Ultimate Guide to Champagne. As a wine journalist, her articles have appeared in Forbes, China Wine News and other publications. She has been a wine judge and a wine host at several events throughout the world.

WILLIAM SHORT is regional manager, New York, for Dreyfus Ashby & Co., a fine-wine importing company. At 36 years, he is the longest-tenured salesman in the company’s history. Before joining the wine field, he taught school for 10 years.

DAVID MILLIGAN is president of David Milligan Selections, representing fine French producers. In the wine trade for more than 30 years, he began his training in England. He also served as president of Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines. KATHERINE MOORE, FWS, is general manager of Union Square Wine & Spirits, a large retail shop in Manhattan.

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On the staff of Heights Chateau, a wine shop in Brooklyn Heights, for more than 20 years, JUDITH RUNDEL takes part in wine-buying decisions, coordinates the Wine of the Month Club and writes the shop’s website. She also conducts wine tastings and classes. ARNO SCHMIDT has been the executive chef of New York’s Waldorf Astoria, The Plaza and other famous hotels. In that capacity, he has organized numerous wine and food events. Born in Austria, he has worked in hospitality since 1946.

AYELE SOLOMON is the winemaker and a pioneer in honey wine at his company, Bee D’Vine, in California. As well as still honey wine, he recently released the world’s only sparkling honey wine. PAMELA WITTMANN is the principal of Millisime, Ltd., her 17-year-old public relations and marketing firm specializing in helping foreign wineries enter the U.S. market. With degrees in oenology and in business, she has worked in wineries and wine sales.

BEST NORTH AMERICAN RED WINE 1. Battle Creek Cellars Pinot Noir Reserve 2017, Oregon (Alaska Airlines) 2. Château Villotte 2016, Bordeaux (United Airlines) 3. Antica Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Napa, California (Delta Air Lines) 4. Tie: Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Sonoma, California (Aeromexico) Hall Merlot 2015, Napa, California (American Airlines) 5. RoseRock Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir 2015, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon (American Airlines) BEST NORTH AMERICAN WHITE WINE 1. Joseph Drouhin Saint-Véran 2017, Mâcon, Burgundy (American Airlines) 2. Decoy Chardonnay 2017, Sonoma, California (Aeromexico) 3. Gravelly Ford Chardonnay 2017, California (United Airlines) 4. J. Hofstätter Pinot Bianco 2017, Alto Adige, Italy (American Airlines) 5. Rued Chardonnay 2018, Sonoma, California (Alaska Airlines) BEST ALLIANCE WINES ON THE WING 1. oneworld 2. Star Alliance 3. SkyTeam

AFTER PARTY GUESTS 3

GUESTS: 1. Erica Meyer; Peter Steier; Jill Steier 2. Lou Atsaves, distribution specialist, Global Traveler; John Wroblewski, distribution specialist, Global Traveler; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Eunice Fried, director, Wines on the Wing competition, Global Traveler 3. Sharon King Hoge, writer, Global Traveler; Alexandra Young, executive managing director, Konex International; Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, FXExpress Publications, Inc. 4. Mikhail James; Yasser Ogando, production and advertising coordinator, FXExpress Publications, Inc.: Nathan Gallagher; Casey Gallagher; Laura Gallagher; Christian Devine; Kendis Locke 5. Taylor Cramer; Gabbi Mangini 6. Gary Oswald, executive vice president, Advisory Board, Global Traveler; Kevin Ryan, partner, Citrin Cooperman; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Michael Donahue, chairman, Advisory Board, Global Traveler 7. Sheryl Stein. communications manager, EL AL Israel Airlines; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Sarah Inbar; Amos Inbar 8. Linda Axelrod, celebrity impersonator; Mark Lane, secretary, Advisory Board, Global Traveler 9. Sarah Siyufy, Brandon Schultz, writer, Global Traveler and trazeetravel.com 10. Katie Skrzek, vice president and digital director, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Yasser Ogando, production and advertising coordinator, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Erich Martin, assistant editor, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Angelique Platas, associate editor, FXExpress Publications, Inc.

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Perfect Pairings Discover new frontiers in food and wine around the globe. BY BECCA HENSLEY BORED WITH BORDEAUX? Thoughts of Napa bring on a nap? Don’t care two whits about Tuscany? Perhaps the time has come to explore that trove of untrammeled, lesser-known, worldwide wine lands, places you’d never expect could grow a vine or 10. Microclimates around the globe ensure grapes thrive in the most unexpected places, and winemakers, dating back centuries, know just what to do with all that juicy fruit. From vintages made from grapes you never knew existed to old favorites crafted to make a drink that embraces regional gravitas, the offerings in these under-the-radar wine areas will add to your oenophile savvy. Since limited production can mean some wines don’t get exported to your favorite store, the best option is to travel for your tastings. The world, in fact,

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AUGUST 2019

is your wine glass. Consider that every wine region relies on stellar food as its complement, and you won’t want to miss a meal. Traveling to Switzerland, you may be thinking cheese or chocolate — even watches — but what goes better with these indulgent regional tasty treats than the fruit of the vine? A nation fringed by mountains, home to fictional heroine Heidi, swanky Switzerland keeps its wine exclusive. In fact, 98 percent of it never leaves the country. Try Switzerland’s best wines, including its signature, indigenous Chasselas vintages (perhaps best in the canton of Vaud), on site at what most people feel are Europe’s most easily visited vineyards. For red lovers, explore Bündner Herrschaft, just an hour from Zürich, comprising four villages in the canton of Graubünden. Known for a rich, herbaceous Pinot Noir, this wine area offers stellar walking trails, some of which take you right by the wineries. What to eat while you imbibe? The region specializes in hearty fare: soups, air-dried meats and potato-based dishes. In nearby St.-Moritz, truffle pizza tempts. Where to base? Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, a historic hotel known for its healing mineral water pools, anchors the little village of Bad Ragaz. Snow-white buildings, dome-shaped rooftops, impossibly crystalline waters, sunsets, colorful fishing boats, ancient temples and … wine. That’s right. You’ve heard of Dionysus, the ancient god of wine? The Greeks have long been aficionados, with vintages purportedly dating back to Neolithic times. Swim in the sulfurous waters of Santoríni’s caldera, then reward yourself with wines

made from grapes reported to sell for double the price of those They say everything’s bigger in Texas. Certainly, its wine scene, from Bordeaux. The island’s production today — spread across which began half a century ago, burgeoned to be the fifth-largest nearly 3,000 acres — includes indigenous white grape varieties, in the United States, with the last 10 years showing explosive such as Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani, while international and growth via new vineyards and wineries. Today approximately unique varietals of reds (think 450 wineries pepper the huge Mandalieria) do well. Find state which measures 10 ‘Exciting varietals like lenoir and sagrantino the wines in kanaves (cellars) percent larger than France and are thriving under fine Texas weather in Oia, Pyrgos and Megalostands out as twice the size of chori, among other villages. Germany or Japan. Though conditions, and more and more people are Immerse in the vineyard spirit diverse in its terroir and despite making their way to our great state, eager to having proven success with at Andronis Concept Wellness Resort, a hotel with heritage nearly every type of grape, try the wines and taste something new.’ grapes growing on property. Texas’ overall warm southern Its “adopt your own vine” temperatures nurture such — Paul Bonarrigo, owner, Messina Hof, and president, program gets you six bottles peerless whites as Vermentino, Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association of Andronis-produced wine Viognier and Roussanne, while per year for 10 consecutive hearty reds from Tempranillo years. What to eat while you sip? Santoríni is home to a superto Tannant — even Nero d’ Avola — thrive. Visit the Texas Wine sweet cherry tomato. Try them in the island’s special tomato fritters Country, a cluster of award-winning wineries just 90 minutes from (ntomatokeftedes), a fried appetizer. Also snack-worthy, the island’s Austin. Local favorites, wedged amid the Hill Country’s fields of chlorotyri goat cheese and rare white eggplants, often served puréed. wildflowers, barbecue joints and peach orchards, include Duchman

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VAST VARIETY:

(Left to right) Bündner Herrschaft, Switzerland; Santoríni, Greece; and Pedernales Cellars, Duchman Family Winery and Bending Branch in Texas PHOTOS: © SWITZERLAND TOURISM, © ANDRONIS EXCLUSIVE, © PEDERNALES CELLARS’ KUHLKEN VINEYARDS, © DUCHMAN FAMILY WINERY, © BENDING BRANCH

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feature Family Winery in Driftwood and Bending Branch in Comfort. Stay in the nostalgic village of Fredericksburg at the log cabin-themed Cotton Gin Village. What to try? Fredericksburg was settled by Germans who left a legacy of Teutonic cuisine. Try wiener schnitzel, smoked meats and spaetzle crafted with old-fashioned panache. Shangri-La has long been a euphemism for paradise on Earth. You’ll discover bliss in liquid form when you tilt your wine glass in China’s Yunnan Province to get the last sip of Ao Yun, made from grapes grown near the rumored location of Shangri-La in the foothills of the Himalayas. As China became the largest consumer of red wine in the world and fifth top market for wine in general, Moët Hennessy took note. It ventured into China to discover the immense nation’s true growing capabilities. In Yunnan it found an ideal terroir for Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, where veteran winemaker Maxence Dulou overcame the hardship of developing a French grape variety that never had been grown at 8,500 feet. Harvested and crafted by hand by local villagers and the wine team, the resulting Grand Cru Ao Yun puts China in the wine game. Stay at the Banyan Tree Ringha, built to mimic a Tibetan farmhouse. Visits to the winery become a reality in 2020. What to nibble? Rice noodles and yak meat are staples in Yunnan, which serves up a different twist on classic Chinese recipes. Dig into da jia jia, a pork, egg and rice dish. Renowned as a beach town and former hideout for Hollywood heyday film stars, Santa Barbara, a two-hour drive from Los Angeles, also serves as the threshold to some of the most captivating wine country in the world. Surrounded by bucolic landscapes, the region’s unusual east-west transverse coastline blows in just the right sort of weather for grape growing. Made famous in the film Sideways, the Santa Ynez Valley, just 30 minutes from town, harbors a cadre of quaint hamlets and more than 70 wineries, many of them family-owned for generations. Most make a startling Pinot Noir, but Chardonnay also proves a regional favorite. Nab a cabana at swanky, historic Belmond El Encanto, set atop a hill in a characteristic neighborhood in town. Though the hotel offers a wine under its own label, you’ll want to venture out to test The Urban Wine Trail, a casual tour of 20-plus tasting rooms situated downtown. An undisputed gourmet’s getaway, Santa Barbara is known for its tony restaurants, experimental cafés and creative chefs. With so many farms around, field-to-fork finds great expression here. Make reservations at The Lark in Santa Barbara and S.Y. Kitchen in Santa Ynez for the best of that genre. Diminutive, this farther-flung European outpost reigns as the darling of well-traveled pilgrims in search of a new wine-infused adventure. With craggy mountains, shimmering lakes and castles galore, Slovenia lies just north of Croatia and across the Adriatic Sea from Venice. Set within the European wine-growing belt and armed with centuries-old traditions, it features three wine-growing regions and 14 wine districts yielding a variety of wine. Perhaps most famous, Brda Hills borders Italy. Creamy Rebula, flowery Pinot Blanc and a citrusy Chardonnay represent the whites from this area, while earthy, light-style Merlots typify the reds. In the Karst Region, home to a red-hued “terra rosa” soil, indulge in Slovenia’s most unique wine: Teran. Red, with orange hues and a big body, it tastes of

VINE TO TABLE:

Ao Yun in Yunan, China (top); Santa Barbara wine tasting (middle); and dining at Belmond El Encanto, Santa Barbara (bottom) PHOTOS: © MOËT, HENNESSY © SANDREAS HUB, COURTESY OF VISIT CALIFORNIA/VISIT SANTA BARBARA, © BELMOND EL ENCANTO

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not-quite-ripe berries. In autumn enjoy the annual Old Vine Festival, a culinary and cultural tribute to the world’s oldest vine. A foodie destination, Slovenia boasts many regional specialties. Hard cheeses and housemade charcuterie are popular and pair well with wine. Sample Karst, a thinly sliced ham, Carniolan sausage (a mélange of garlic and pepper) and štruklji, cheese dumplings. Australia ranks as the eighth-largest wine-producing country in the world. But where to plan a tasting jaunt? A local favorite for its quality of wine and culinary offerings, remote Margaret River Valley sits three hours by car south of Perth in Western Australia. This hard-to-reach region includes 120 world-class wineries, most boutique and likely to have personable winemakers on hand. Renowned for both red and white varieties, the region produces such favorites as Chardonnay (sip some superstar vintages at McHenry Hohnen) and Cabernet Sauvignon (Deep Woods Estate rules with reds). Ensconce yourself at Losari Retreat (post-tasting spa treatments are de rigueur), but bookend your trip in Perth at tony, newly opened QT Perth, steps from the buzzy waterfront precinct and Elizabeth Quay. Epicureans take note: Margaret Valley has a passion for produce, organic farms and clever chefs.

It’s an ideal spot to take a cooking class (we love the one at Wildwood Valley). Travel in November to enjoy the Western Australia Gourmet Escape, a mind-boggling food festival.

FINE SELECTIONS:

QT Perth bar (top), and aged wines at Prus Wine Cellar in Krmačina, Slovenia (bottom) PHOTOS: © QT PERTH, © TOMO JESENIČNIK/ SLOVENIAN TOURIST BOARD

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mice | TOKYO

A Toast to Tokyo Infuse your MICE event with Japanese culture, wine and cuisine. BY RICHARD NEWTON UNCONVENTIONAL DESIGN: Tokyo Big Sight PHOTO: © VOYATA - DREAMSTIME.COM

lly, Officia isn’t Tokyo ut a a city b ure. It prefect s of consist -sized 23 city subwards into divided ts. distric

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LET’S TOAST OUR EVENT with Japanese wine. That might sound like a joke. Japanese wine? You mean rice wine? No, Japanese wine. Red or white, fermented from Japanese grapes. At first sip you know you’re tasting something of genuine quality. Why have you never sampled it at home? Because hardly any of it is exported; it is mostly consumed domestically. To try the full range of varieties, you must come to Japan. The wine is just one reason among many to choose this unique country for your MICE event. There’s nowhere quite like Japan, and the MICE options reflect that. Tokyo in particular boasts a welldeveloped MICE infrastructure, including experiences tailored for small or large groups. Business Events Tokyo offers team-building sessions

AUGUST 2019

involving sushi making, robot building or taiko drumming. All require teamwork. Other cultural experiences available include karate lessons, flower arranging and learning the art of the tea ceremony. As you’d expect of a sophisticated metropolis of 9 million people, you’ll find no shortage of world-class venues. Arguably, the flagship is the Tokyo International Forum, offering 1.5 million square feet of floor space in four buildings and the flexibility to accommodate everything from a small business meeting to a major exhibition. The Forum will host the weightlifting competitions for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. The Olympics. Let’s not forget about them. Tokyo is investing nearly $4 billion in infrastructure and facilities ahead of next year’s event. Though construction work will create some inconveniences in the runup, the benefits are already filtering through, with upgraded expressways and expanded rail stations. Find another heavyweight venue in the Tokyo Conference Center Shinagawa, located in Shinagawa District. The venue boasts two halls and a range of boardrooms on three floors, all just a short walk from Shinagawa Station, with convenient connections to Haneda and Narita International airports and to the country’s bullet train network. Tokyo Big Sight (also known as the Tokyo International Exhibition Center) reigns as the most distinctive venue in Tokyo and the biggest exhibition space in Japan. Resembling four upside-down pyramids balanced on four stocky support columns, the building originally

JAPANESE STYLE:

The Linden Room at The Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo in Nihonbashi District (top), and a Park Hyatt Tokyo meeting room (bottom) PHOTOS: © THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL, TOKYO, © PARK HYATT TOKYO

UNIQUE VENUES

Alongside all of the standard international-class venues, Tokyo has a variety of unusual options, some breathtaking, others quirky.

opened in 1996, instantly becoming an unmistakable fixture of the skyline in the Waterfront area. The venue features five exhibition spaces, three conference halls, a ballroom and numerous smaller meeting rooms. In addition to dedicated venues, most of Tokyo’s international hotels (of which there are many) offer MICE facilities. Park Hyatt Tokyo, the unforgettable setting of the movie Lost in Translation, occupies the top 14 floors of a 52-floor tower, offering stunning views of the cityscape and, on a rare clear day, Mount Fuji. The hotel has three versatile function rooms as well as boardroom facilities and private dining options. The Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo, in Nihonbashi District (styled ‘‘Fusion City” in tourism literature because of its blend of old and new) has 14 event spaces, the largest of which can seat up to 260 people. Every event includes a dedicated manager assigned to it and can incorporate cultural experiences as part of the program, such as Bushido

The Maxell Aqua Park within the Shinagawa Prince Hotel belongs to the breathtaking category. The exhibits combine aquarium displays with interactive technology as well as a central pool for spectacular dolphin shows. The Aqua Park can be hired exclusively after it closes to the public at 10 p.m., either for stand-alone events or to supplement events in the more formal surroundings of the hotel’s ballroom. aqua-park.jp TABLOID, in Minato District beside Tokyo Bay, fits in the quirky category. This former printing factory is the epitome of industrial chic. Its versatile central space can accommodate up to 2,000 people, and the building also has a rooftop terrace overlooking the bay. tabloid-tcd.com

martial art lessons or the making of traditional fans. Japanese cuisine should feature in any visit to Tokyo, and where better to experience it than in a restaurant that recreates the atmosphere of the Edo Period? Tofuro, in the swank Ginza District, comes complete with an indoor street, a running stream and several traditional wooden buildings. The seasonal menu includes, of course, sushi and sashimi. MICE groups can rent out an entire floor for up to 100 people or private rooms for two to 100 people.

Tokyo is so unrelentingly urban, it is hard to imagine rural Japan lies within easy reach. Around 90 minutes inland from downtown, close to the city of Ashikaga, find Coco Farm Winery. The winery produces Japanese variants of European wines (Chardonnay, Merlot), as well as genuinely Japanese wines derived from the local Koshu grape. Sample some of the wines in a tasting room suitable for small groups and enjoy vineyard views from the terrace of a small café. cocowine.com

AUGUST 2019

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GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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WILLAMETTE VALLEY

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destination one | HANOI

Fast Track Despite rapid changes, Hanoi retains its traditional charms. BY KRISTY ALPERT SLOW MORNING: Tai chi near Hoàn Kiếm Lake near the Turtle Tower PHOTO: © JAROMÍR CHALABALA - DREAMSTIME.COM

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TO THE UNTRAINED EYE, Hanoi appears to move at a slower pace than its neighboring Asian capital cities. People spend mornings practicing tai chi around the many calm lakes of the city while man-powered rickshaws share the roadways peaceably with motorbikes. Locals walk to work along roads filled with street vendors who pride themselves on making every dish entirely from scratch. Despite the appearance of calm and joie de vivre, this former French colony is actually one of the fastest-growing cities in Asia … and it’s about to get even faster. In 2020 Hanoi will become home to the Hanoi Motor Sport Circuit, a track that will host the Vietnam Grand Prix, the country’s first-ever Formula 1 race and the first new event to be added to the F1 calendar since Liberty Media took over the company at the beginning of 2017. Formula 1, the elite class of single-seat auto racing sanctioned by the Federation Internationale de l’Automobile, features speeds of more than 200 mph. The Vietnamese Grand Prix will join an exclusive calendar that includes Monaco, Singapore and Azerbaijan. The event will surely bring

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COMING AND GOING

Upon entering Vietnam, U.S. citizens must present a valid passport good for at least six months after arrival date and a tourist visa. You can apply for an e-Visa online good for a single-entry visit and valid for 30 days; it costs $25 and takes three working days to process.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Vietnamese

LODGING

HANOI LA SIESTA CENTRAL HOTEL This elegant Old Quarter hotel features 27 guestrooms and a rooftop bar offering the perfect perch for watching the sun set over Hoàn Kiếm Lake. 1 Cầu Gỗ, Hàng Bạc, Hoàn Kiếm $$$

LOCAL RESPECTIVE: Hanoi skyline (top), and street vendor (bottom) PHOTOS:© VINH DAO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANTHONY SHAW - DREAMSTIME.COM

increased international exposure to this already booming capital city. Experiencing substantial economic growth over the past few decades, Hanoi grew nearly 7 percent in the first quarter of 2019 alone, according to the city’s Department of Planning and Investment. The city has been on an upward cycle of growth since 1996, when the country normalized relations with the United States by joining the Association of Southeast Asian Nations. Although Vietnam remains a one-party state ruled by the Communist Party of Vietnam, the country’s emphasis on international relations and central planning gave rise to a profitable market-based economic system while decreasing the number of state-owned businesses. Many businesswomen and businessmen have made the move to Hanoi in recent years to take advantage of the fast-moving economy and diversify their operations away from China. Although Vietnamese is the national language, many in business circles speak English, making it easy to navigate this growing market. The past 24 years brought on an increase in liberal economic reforms, allowing for foreign investment to thrive and decreasing the poverty statistics in this capital city of more than 8 million people (and growing). The largest business in the city, Samsung employs nearly 100,000 people, and LG in nearby Haiphong proves another major player. Software developers thrive in the Hanoi market due to the city’s heavy focus on technology in schools. A recent finding from Google software engineer Neil Fraser revealed a group of 11th-grade students studying in Vietnam would easily pass parts of the famously challenging Google interview process with flying colors. Apple (Foxconn) operates a significant project out of the city, as does Mobase. Nike,

LOTTE HOTEL HANOI Sandwiched between the New Business District and the Old Quarter, this 318room high-rise occupies the upper portion of the 65-floor Lotte Center. 54 Liễu Giai, Cống Vị, Ba Đình $$ SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI HOTEL The 364 rooms and suites of this grand dame hotel are spread throughout two wings, the historically colonial Metropole Wing and the newer, Neoclassical Opera Wing. 15 Phố Ngô Quyền, Tràng Tiền, Hoàn Kiếm $$$

INFO TO GO

Noi Bai International Airport lies roughly 28 miles north of the city center and is the largest airport in Northern Vietnam. A metered taxi ride into the city center — normally about 30 minutes, depending on traffic — typically costs less than $14.

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LAKESIDE STROLL:

Tree in autumn at Hoàn Kiếm Lake PHOTO: © VINH DAO - DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING LE BEAULIEU This elegant French haute brasserie inside the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi hotel puts on its French Colonial charm each Sunday for its famous afternoon brunch.

chả cá lã vọng, a savory fish dish served with turmeric and dill in a DIY assembly style. 14 Chả Cá St., Hàng Bỗ, Hoàn Kiếm and 107 Nguyen Truong To St. $

15 Lương Ngọc Quyến, French Quarter, Hoàn Kiếm $$$$

HOME HANOI RESTAURANT The ambience sets the stage for the delicious Vietnamese home-cooked recipes at this charming restaurant.

CHẢ CÁ LÃ VỌNG This 100-year-old restaurant is known for its namesake dish:

34 Châu Long, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình $

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AUGUST 2019

Adidas, The North Face and many other garment industry executives find Hanoi a welcoming environment for business with such a skilled (and plentiful) workforce. Meanwhile, Piaggio and Honda have become essential businesses in the city alongside other motorbike manufacturing and assembly companies. Surprisingly, the agricultural sector remains vital to the economy. Vietnam ranks among the leaders in exporting shrimp, with many exporters and businesses operating out of Hanoi. The country set a goal earlier this year to export $10.5 billion in seafood in 2019 and is on track to do just that. The city’s infrastructure is changing dramatically as city planners make room for the growing international markets by offering policies to promote new construction and modernized methods of transportation. A new airport terminal and highway opened in January 2016 make access to the city much easier from cities around the world. Hanoi recently completed a much-anticipated metro project, receiving its first air train in early 2019 for a project expected to continue to grow until 2021. The excitement of the Formula 1 competition coming in April 2020 inspired city leaders to move more quickly to get the city ready for such a world-class arena, proving once again development will only assist business and create more development opportunities in the near future. Despite this rapid change, the city maintains its historic charm and healthy work/life balance. No matter how much the city grows, a regular crowd will continue to practice the slow art form of tai chi in the early morning hours around Hoàn Kiếm Lake. The city’s storied past and rich traditions blend with a bright future to create a vibrant economy on the fast track for growth and expansion in the years to come.

CHECKING IN WITH ANTHONY PETER SLEWKA-ARMFELT

Director of Sales and Marketing, Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, and Director of Business Development, Accor Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos What were your initial thoughts about moving to Hanoi? Essentially, I was assigned to Hanoi by the company. Prior to moving I was not so keen to live in Hanoi, as during my many short visits the city appeared a bit chaotic and the weather somewhat overcast. However, I quickly began to really like Hanoi and was soon totally immersed. There are many reasons for this, even apart from the special beauty of where I work at the Metropole, but the main ones are the amazing close-knit and eclectic expatriate community, the nature of the Vietnamese people, the charm and authenticity of the small streets and old buildings, and the measured tempo of the apparent traffic mayhem. Is WiFi access ever an issue? WiFi is good almost everywhere, and I am not aware of any current restrictions on social media. What time of day would you arrange a business meeting with someone local? Power breakfasts are uniquely American so are not at all popular here (I never liked them either). Business lunches, however, are popular, and we see them often. Evenings are more for entertaining. I would say for the best outcome, plan business meetings for late morning in a meeting room followed by lunch. Where are some of your favorite off-site restaurants? As I am based in Hanoi, I tend to go for something other than Vietnamese food. Authentic Vietnamese restaurants tend to specialize in specific dishes, but for restaurants offering a large selection I recommend Cao Go, overlooking Hoàn Kiếm Lake and Ưu Đàm Chay for vegetarian. There is also Madam Hien, run by former chef Didier Corlou of the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi. Home Hanoi Restaurant at 34 Châu Long is also good, and I really like an eclectic Japanese expat restaurant that serves mainly Western food but Japanese-style, called PéPé La Poule in the Xuan Dieu area. La Badiane is a nice French restaurant, and Cousins To Ngoc Van is an expat favorite. For burgers, try either Sun Katz or Chops. For Italian we have Da Paulo Dragoncello and Cucini. And Maison De Tet Décor, a healthy Western restaurant close to the InterContinental Westlake, serves great salads, carrot cake and smoothies. Any surprising finds in the city? Actually, the golf situation is a hidden treasure, with many great courses nearby — more than in central Vietnamese resort cities.

DIVERSIONS

STREET EATS:

In the same way businesses thrive on the growing streets of Hanoi, the streets themselves continue to thrive with the steady hum of Hanoi’s famous street vendors. The street food in Hanoi is often regarded as some of the best in the world, where vendors prepare decadent dishes of phở, bun cha and bánh cuốn on tiny makeshift stoves following centuries-old recipes, often rivaling the complex flavor profiles of the world’s finest restaurants. The street chefs behind Phở Gia Truyền Bát Đàn (one of the most famous phở vendors in Hanoi) begin preparing phở in the early hours of the day. They sell it to a hungry crowd of locals and in-the-know tourists. It is so popular, they only serve it until they run out, typically around 10 a.m.

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Street food vendor with typical plastic stools (top), and phở from Phở Gia Truyền Bát Đàn PHOTOS: © ANDREEVAEE DREAMSTIME.COM, © NPHỞ GIA TRUYỀN BÁT ĐÀN

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ICONIC HANOI:

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre (top left), Tran Quoc temple (right), and Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi PHOTOS: © DAVID PILLOW - DREAMSTIME.COM, © VINH DAO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © VINH DAO - DREAMSTIME.COM

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +7 Phone code: Country code: 84 City code: 4 Currency: Vietnamese dong Key industries: Garment and textile, agricultural products and food processing, mechanical manufacturing, electronics and telecommunications, information technology

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Visitors can join street food tours at all hours of the day to get a taste of the best Hanoi flavors without the hassle of navigating the labyrinthine back streets. Many tours operate by rickshaw, whisking hungry patrons past the tai chi-practicing locals along Hoàn Kiếm Lake before heading to Hanoi’s Old Quarter to sample delicacies at places like Café Duy Trí or shop the stalls at Dong Xuan Market. For a little extra, many tour operators help arrange for a visit to the city’s beloved Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre or include a stop at the Tran Quoc Pagoda. The excellence in the street food industry elevated the restaurant game in the city as well, and many new restaurants opened to feature favorite dishes prepared in upscale settings and with ingredients deemed safe for Western palates (vegetables washed with bottled water, for example). Home Hanoi Restaurant in the Truc Bach neighborhood sits inside a former French residence and offers truly authentic versions of traditional Hanoi favorites. Its chả cá (turmeric fish with noodles) competes with the original recipes of the old city, while the ambience invites guests to slow down and enjoy a meal with friends in a cozy dining room setting. The most iconic property in Hanoi just happens to house many of the city’s most beloved sites, where countless novels and songs were born within steps of Hanoi’s first-ever French restaurant, Le Beaulieu. The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi opened in 1901 and has been an icon in the city ever since. It served as a honeymoon hideout for Charlie Chaplin in 1936 as well as a place of shelter for artist Joan Baez when she was in town during the Christmas bombing of 1972. Baez went on to write “Where Are You Now, My Son?” during the raid, and visitors today can listen to the recording, air raid sirens and dropping bombs and all, while touring the recently discovered bomb shelter on the property.

PHOTOS: © OPREANU ROBERTO SORIN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © EDUARDO DI PIEMONTE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © OLDRICH PRIDAL - DREAMSTIME.COM, © BENNYMARTY - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANDREW MELNICK, © THE GLEN HOUSE, MT. WASHINGTON, NH, © STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI, © CARLY ALLEN, © CARLY ALLEN

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stateside | WILLAMETTE VALLEY

Land of Plenty Sample the bounty of food, wine and brews in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. BY KARIN LEPERI FIELDS OF DREAMS: Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery head brewer Christian DeBenedetti PHOTO: © WOLVES & PEOPLE FARMHOUSE

the e of t m o S mos (and ve) t s be nsi expe r in oi ot N es Pin com d l r wo the the from te t lame . Wil ey Vall

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GREAT FOOD, WINE AND CRAFT BEER. Besides all things culinary, Willamette Valley is home to about 70 percent of Oregon’s population and is considered the cultural and political heart of the state. It might also be considered the heart of Oregon’s food and wine explosion. Named for the river that runs through it, the 150-mile-long sheltered valley is bordered by the Oregon Coast Range on the west, the Cascade Range on the east and the Calapooya Mountains to the south. Starting in the 1840s, this was the destination of many a westbound pioneer family following the Oregon Trail. They were looking for fertile soils and new beginnings. Today the valley is known for its bountiful agriculture ranging from olives, honey, hazelnuts and flowers to grass seed, turf and its world-class Pinot Noir wine — a fickle grape that

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responds well to distinctive diurnal temperature changes characteristic of the Willamette. (The valley also produces outstanding Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and other varietals.) First, to the wines. The region is an agriculturally fertile powerhouse in large part due to the spread of rich volcanic and glacial soils from the Missoula Floods — the last of some 40 floods occurred about 13,000 years ago. The coveted volcanic red Jory soil, most common above 300 feet elevation, is noted for providing the excellent drainage necessary for producing wine grapes of superior quality. That, along with various distinctive microclimates in the valley, create terroir that varies by soil, elevation and exposure. The Willamette’s viticulture uniquely capitalizes on innovation and artful production by mostly family-owned and -operated vineyards. Many farm sustainably and organically. And many tasting rooms define new boundaries in wine and food pairing. The Willamette Valley became an official American Viticulture Area in 1983 but has since expanded to include six sub-AVAs, with another four pending approval. Those seeking approval from the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau are Mount Pisgah, Polk County, Oregon AVA; Laurelwood AVA; Lower Long Tom AVA; and Tualatin Hills AVA. This development created international excitement as well as investment. For example, Francis Ford Coppola recently announced his new venture, Domaine de Broglie in the Dundee Hills AVA. But there’s more to Willamette Valley than wine: There’s also beer. One of the most innovative is Wolves & People Farmhouse Brewery in Newberg, designated Oregon’s Best Brewery by Outside Magazine. Founder and head

brewer Christian DeBenedetti uses pure well water with wild yeasts, hops, fruits and house sour culture to bottle small-batch beers. “They exhibit the beautiful wildness of Oregon terroir,” said DeBenedetti. Salem’s newest brewery, Xicha, fuses Hispanic traditions with edible culture. It specializes in lighter beers, ales and lagers along with creative food takes like smoked trout taquitos. Those craving Oktoberfest without leaving Oregon find Mount Angel the best option, 18 miles northeast of Salem. Settled by Swiss Benedictine monks in the 1880s and followed by a surge of Bavarian immigrants, the town celebrates the famed Oktoberfest in late September with hopped beers and accordions. Come spring, Mount Angel embraces tulips. And then there’s the food. The South Willamette Valley Food Trail debuted this spring, featuring foodie stops throughout Eugene and the Cascades area. Another recent entry is Castor Food & Drink in the southern Willamette Valley CRAFT COMMUNITY: Xicha Brewing town of Corvallis, focusing on sustainably harvested and PHOTOS : © ALONSO BRAMBILA foraged local foods. Executive Chef Danielle Lewis (formerly of King Estates) is someone to follow. In a field of another sort, the International Association of Athletics Federations World Championships comes to Eugene in 2021 with nearly 2,000 participants representing 214 countries. Eugene is TrackTown USA, the home of the University of Oregon; birthplace of Nike; and a happening place for cyclists, craft breweries and serious foodies. “As Oregon prepares to welcome a global audience for the 2021 World Track & Field Championships, Eugene and the South Willamette Valley are seeing an unprecedented level of capital investment,” said Kari Westlund, CEO and president, Travel Lane County. “This includes a renewed sense of our innovative strengths as a craft beverage and culinary destination; a center for environmental stewardship and outdoor recreation; and a place focused on changing society and the human condition for the better, whether that is through celebration of human performance, applied sciences or social equity.” Anticipating the momentous event, downtown development exploded in Eugene and nearby Springfield and Cottage Grove. Additionally, Eugene claims to have some of the best breweries supported by bottleshops, taphouses

SCENIC DRIVES

and growler fill stations. Whatever you do, carve out time to visit one of my favorites in the extended Eugene area, just southwest of the city: King Estate Winery. Reminiscent of a Tuscan castle with fields of blooming lavender in the summer months, the estate draws those who love wine, food and beautiful scenery. It also abounds in Pinot artistry — from Pinot Noir to Pinot Gris. With 26 acres of organic gardens and orchards, it represents the ultimate in Oregonian values and organically grown crops, artfully reflected in its wines and restaurant offerings. It’s the perfect place for a romantic celebration.

Oregon is known for scenic waterfalls, and the Cascade Mountains offer up plenty. About an hour east of the state capital of Salem, Silver Falls State Park is Oregon’s largest and one of the most popular parks because of its many waterfalls. Walk behind the famous South Falls or photograph it from the parking lot. More adventurous types will want to hike the Trail of Ten Falls, a nationally recognized hiking trail. Or bring your horse and overnight in the horse campground. For those who like driving Scenic Byways, Willamette Valley is home to three that cover historical and cultural landmarks along with six trenchant landscapes. The difficult decision will be which one to choose. Whether Mary’s Peak to Pacific Scenic Byway, McKenzie River Scenic Byway or West Cascades Scenic Byway, each offers plenty of enchanting vistas and breathtaking scenery along the way. All you need is a car and a sense of discovery.

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9–5 | BANGKOK

Thai Treats Bangkok bustles with options for wining and dining clients. BY ELLEN CLARK ALL THAT GLITTERS: Elaborate gold mosaics at Wat Phra Kaew PHOTO: © ELLEN CLARK

BANGKOK: THIS BIG, COLORFUL, noisy, larger-thanlife city positively bursts with energy. The air feels supercharged, and the legendary non-stop traffic jam seems downright overwhelming. This city comes at you like a whirlwind, yet few can resist its seductive charms. The city tantalizes visitors, from the shimmering gold- and jewel-colored mosaics of Wat Phra Kaew at the Grand Palace complex to the fascinating river life along the canals off the Chao Phraya River and the slightly chaotic but interesting Bang Noi Floating Market. But Bangkok’s national treasures tell only part of the story. Plenty is happening on the business front, and Bangkok’s business-savvy inhabitants have some

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clear guidelines for doing business with foreigners. First and foremost, visitors should respect the Thai culture. Do not ever make negative remarks about Thailand or the royal family, and never touch or take selfies with statues or images of Buddha. Also, the bottoms of feet are considered offensive and should never be pointed toward another person or a sacred image. The Thai people value courtesy and saving face, so they may see aggressive Western sales techniques as rude. Business culture in Thailand tends to be hierarchical and based on respect for elders and for position. Thais like to develop relationships with business partners, so business might progress more slowly than Westerners are used to. In Thailand the traditional greeting is a wai (pronounced “why”), performed by placing the palms together as if in prayer and bowing your head toward your fingertips. The person of lower status offers the greeting. Business cards, an important business tool in Thailand, are presented with the right hand to the most senior person first. And it is important to read the card offered. Business attire at the executive level is formal and conservative. To be on the safe side, stick with dark suits or slacks but avoid black, as it is associated with funerals. Men should wear dress shirts and ties, while women’s skirts should fall below the knee and shoulders should be covered. Because shoes are removed in homes and some businesses, socks and stockings should be in good repair. Though all of these rules may sound a bit overwhelming, the Thai people, particularly in the business world, are incredibly hospitable, with friendly smiles

and perfect manners. Quite forgiving and patient with foreigners, they will likely politely overlook any unintentional faux pas. Food figures prominently in Asian culture, and Bangkok offers a multitude of dining options, with every country and type of food represented. When business meetings include a meal, food is only one part of the package. Ambience and service also play a large part and are considered a reflection of one’s business persona. The problem is not finding a venue but choosing the one among many which will serve best for that important business breakfast, lunch or dinner. For an early-morning meeting, the Mandarin Oriental breakfast buffet is sure to impress almost any business associate with its tantalizing assortment of fruit and mouth-watering pastries served on the veranda in full view of the Chao Phraya River. Housed in a 100-year-old building, the Blue Elephant includes not only an innovative restaurant but also a cooking school. Featuring both set menus and a banqueting option, it proves perfect for small business conferences. For an elegant business dinner, Evergarden offers a classy ambience and superb food. Specializing in traditional Cantonese cuisine, its steamed snow fish in soy sauce is perfection. While Thai food’s reputation is legendary, and the wine’s not so much, this is changing. In September Bangkok will host the seventh annual Wine & Spirits Thailand, a leading international trade exhibition for the wine and spirits industries. Thailand’s Monsoon Valley Vineyard makes award-winning wines from international grape varietals.Wine Enthusiast included Bangkok as one of the 10 Best Wine Travel Destinations of 2019.

THAI TREASURES: Boat ride on the Chao Phraya River (top left), one of the beautiful dancers decorating Wat Phra Kaew (top right), and Bangkok cuisine (bottom) PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK, © TOMMY SCHULTZ DREAMSTIME.COM

Without question, one cannot discuss Bangkok without addressing the traffic issue. It often seems the city is in a permanent state of gridlock, and getting anywhere takes forever, but transportation options can make getting around doable. The BTS Skytrain and Silom Line linking Bangkok’s central business districts offer the quickest way around central Bangkok. The MRT, Bangkok’s second mass-transit system, covers the northern section of the city. Except during morning and evening rush hours, taxis can offer a surprisingly fast and cheap way to get around. Two things to remember: Have the name of your destination written in Thai, since few drivers speak English, and make sure the driver agrees to use the meter.

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April, Every hosts ok Bangk ’s rld the wo treet ts larges ht fig water e g th durin ar ew Ye Thai N nown yk holida as the ran Songk val. Festi

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after 5 | PORTO

Portuguese Classics Spend a sublime evening tasting Porto’s wine, cuisine and culture. BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

PORTO IS ALL ABOUT WINE. Wine literally flows from the steep vineyard-clad hillsides into the Douro River and on to Porto, where it ages in casks and is shipped throughout the world. Port wine takes its name from the city and shaped Porto’s social, cultural and economic history. Visiting the great wine houses is the thing to do here, and with planning you can fit a tour and tasting into an after-5 schedule. Wine houses, easy to find, line the riverbank and ascend the steep hillside of Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro River from the even-steeper streets of Ribeira, the old town. The dramatic Ponte Luis I Bridge connects the two. Several wine houses remain open until 7 p.m., and tours usually take about an hour, followed by tastings. Some offer tastings without the tour; reserve ahead through their websites for either option. Kopke, the oldest, offers tastings only, pairing wine flights with chocolates. Cockburn’s stays open until 6 or 7 p.m., as does Taylor’s, where tours are self-guided. Taylor’s offers another option: a wine dinner overlooking the Douro. ODE Porto Wine House serves beautifully presented Portuguese

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dishes using organic, locally produced ingredients. For a taste of Portuguese culture with your Port, take a tour at Calem with a 6 p.m. tasting and half-hour performance of traditional fado, Portugal’s unique, soulful music. For a longer fado show with dinner, locals choose Casa da Mariquinhas, where performances begin at 9 p.m. Porto’s Michelin stars fell on Gastronomic Restaurant at The Yeatman, where connoisseurs opt for the chef ’s tasting menu with wine pairings. The outdoor bar and terrace provide some of Porto’s best views. Also find a stunning view at the Lounge Terrace 360º Bar, part of the chic Restaurante DeCastro Gaia. A younger, hip crowd prefers Restaurante Cafeína, where Portuguese dishes include Italian and French influences. The liveliest nightlife centers in the crowded streets around Galaria de Paris, with Porto’s highest concentration of bars, cafés and lounges. For live jazz, seek out Mirajazz Wine Bar. Exclusively LGBTQ+ venues are few — Portugal is famously inclusive — but Café Lusitano and newer gayowned Conceição 35 cater to a mixed crowd, and Invictus Café Bar features live drag shows on weekends.

NOT JUST ANY PORT:

Porto old city skyline viewed from across the Douro River (left), and drinking wine on the waterfront (right) PHOTOS: © OLEZZO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © PIERO CRUCIATTI - DREAMSTIME.COM

ight ay n d r u Sat e One onth, th asa m C each porary ert m e nc cont sica co u o da M rns int st u ge t g l i hal gal’s b rest tu Por ub; the sts ho tcl nigh time it nces a e h of t perform ic mus enres. ll g in a

neighborhoods | SAVANNAH

Southern Hospitality Discover the culinary charms of historic Savannah. BY DONNA TABBERT LONG

ner ontai c n e p o nnah’s w) means Sava la n or no stroll law ( n th a wn wi lers c o e t v n a w r t do d. storic age in han r the hi e v ult be an ad

GRACIOUS PLACES: Forsyth Park (left), and breakfast at The Gastonian (above)

ANTEBELLUM MANSIONS, secret gardens, ancient oak trees draped with Spanish moss: Savannah fairly drips with Southern charm. As rich in history and beauty as it is in its culinary offerings, the bewitching city’s hospitable roots run deep. There’s a reason it’s called the Hostess City, after all. With a pace as relaxed as its drawl, most visitors to Savannah enjoy strolling through the city’s 22 public squares, each “prettier than the next,” locals like to say. Features of a historic district that is one of the country’s oldest, largest and most intact, each square boasts its own distinct character and ambience. The same could be said of the city’s abundant restaurants, loaded with delicious food and drink options — and often located in all kinds of repurposed properties. The much-acclaimed and chef-driven Grey, considered one of the most coveted dining reservations in town, serves food and wine lovers in a building that originally housed the 1938 Art Deco Greyhound Bus Terminal. Its newest spinoff, called Grey Market, offers diner-type counter seating backed by shelves lined with jars of its pickled vegetables and bottles of wine for sale. Cotton & Rye, another popular eating venue with a cool

and sophisticated vibe, is housed in a refurbished 1950s bank. A favorite watering hole, the French-inspired bistro and gastropub Circa 1875 (in a building of the same age), offers a fantastic worldwide selection of wine. Savannah’s great variety of mansions — ranging from simple Colonials to gingerbread-accented Victorians — represents another of the city’s charms. The architectural gems have not only been made into bed-and-breakfast lodgings like the Hamilton Turner Inn and The Gastonian, but numerous others also have been transformed into the city’s most popular dining destinations. Elizabeth on 37th, filled with elegant antiques and marble fireplaces, is renowned for its seafood and impressive wine list. Overlooking Reynolds Square, the beloved Olde Pink House dishes up authentic Lowcountry cuisine in an 18th-century Georgian mansion. For a late-night bump at a Savannah institution, however, nothing beats The Original Pinkie Masters, the longtime neighborhood dive bar where Jimmy Carter famously announced his bid for the presidency, way back when. That’s Savannah for you — a tantalizing mix of historic and hip, spiked with lots of Southern soul.

Atlanta Augusta

Macon Columbus

GEORGIA

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Savannah

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Midway’s Concession Redevelopment Reaches a Milestone A TOTAL OF 19 NEW shopping and dining options are now available to visitors at Chicago’s Midway International Airport, including the latest restaurant opening in the middle of Concourse B. The opening of a local favorite, Hubbard Inn, on June 15 marked a milestone of successfully repurposing

concourse space to enhance the food offerings at the airport. The full concession redevelopment will offer more than 70 new concession options at the airport by the end of 2020. The upgrade is part of the Chicago Department of Aviation’s partnership with Midway Partnership LLC to enhance and expand the concession program. The concessions redevelopment is one of three marquee projects part of the Midway Modernization Program, a nearly $400 million investment that also includes the passenger security checkpoint expansion and terminal parking garage improvements. MMP is the largest redevelopment program at the airport in nearly 20 years and is expected to create more than 2,000 construction and permanent concession jobs.

New dining and retail options at Midway highlighting local and national brands include: Arami BIG & little’s Big Shoulders Coffee Billy Goat Tavern Camden food co. DeCOLORES Einstein Bros Bagels FAO Schwarz Fuel Bar Hubbard Inn Hudson News & Gifts Ink by Hudson (Concourse A) Ink by Hudson (Concourse B) iStore (Concourse A) iStore (Concourse B) Nuts on Clark Porkchop Reilly’s Daughter Woodgrain Neapolitan Pizzeria Hometown favorites Home Run Inn and Harry Caray’s are scheduled to open at Midway this fall. For more information about the Midway Modernization Program, visit MDWmod.com.

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friends & family | CAFAYATE

High-Altitude Beauty Revel in Cafayate’s remarkable vintages, food and landscapes. BY TERESA BITLER ON A WHIM: Unique architecture PHOTO: © TERESA BITLER

FROM THE LUSH FOOTHILLS of the Andes Mountains to the cacti-dotted deserts in the south and the vineyards along La Ruta del Vino, Salta Province in northwest Argentina is, in one word, beautiful. In fact, capital city Salta’s nickname, Salta la Linda, means “Salta the Beautiful,” a label some locals in Cafayate apply to their own town. Located about 120 miles south of Salta via Route 68 in the Calchaquíes Valley, Cafayate is indeed beautiful. Rugged mountains serve as a backdrop to row after row of vines, with the occasional saguaro interspersed among the grapes. Grand bodegas — or wineries — entice visitors to stop for tastings in Cafayate proper and along Route 40 heading east and west out of town.

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Meanwhile, restaurants surround Cafayate’s central plaza, and tour buses stop in front of the daffodilcolored Catedral Nuestra Señora del Rosario. Most visitors come for the wine. Cafayate, the second-largest wine producing region in Argentina, behind Mendoza, claims the title of highest-altitude wine region in the world, at 5,500 to nearly 10,000 feet above sea level. A dry climate; dramatic fluctuations between nighttime and daytime temperatures; and the intense sunlight, which thickens the grapes’ skin, combine to create bold, flavorful wines. The region is best known for its Torrontes. Produced only in Cafayate, this varietal is usually bottled as a crisp, dry white wine similar to Albarino, although

INFO TO GO

Cafayate lies approximately halfway between two international airports. While Teniente General Benjamín Matienzo International Airport in San Miguel de Tucumán lies slightly closer, it is relatively small, and sections of the route to Cafayate are unpaved. The better option is Martin Miguel de Güemes International Airport in Salta. Larger, it is serviced by more airlines and rental car agencies — plus, the paved drive to Cafayate from Salta takes you through the scenic Quebrada de las Conchas.

COLORFUL CAFAYATE:

Catedral Nuestra Señora del Rosario (far left), Cafayate sign, and Malbec and Torrontes ice cream PHOTOS: © TERESA BITLER

LODGING GRACE CAFAYATE With its upscale furnishings, spa and wine bar, this 12-room, 20-villa hotel is reminiscent of Napa luxury. Take advantage of its indoor and outdoor swimming pools and open-kitchen restaurant.

some bodegas produce a sweet version reminiscent of a Riesling as well. Malbec is the most popular red by far, but most bodegas also pour Cabernet Sauvignon and red blends made with Tannat. Assuming you drive a rental from Salta on Route 68, you’ll begin seeing signs for La Ruta del Vino, the Wine Route, soon after leaving the capital city, but the first bodegas don’t appear until you travel more than halfway through the scenic Quebrada de las Conchas. Bypass these and focus instead on the area’s red rock formations, stopping at El Anfiteatro (The Amphitheater), Garganta del Diablo (The Devil’s Throat), El Sapo (The Toad) and the scenic overlooks. Route 68 ends at Route 40, just a few miles west of Cafayate in the heart of the wine region. Head to Plaza Cafayate to orient yourself and stretch your legs. Driving in Cafayate can initially be nerve-wracking because of the many one-way streets and local drivers who don’t adhere to the concept of lanes. Watch for blue rectangles with white arrows painted on corner buildings to indicate street directions. The plaza offers a good place for you and your significant other to sample empanadas filled with beef; quinoa; or humitas, a savory corn and cheese mixture, or to pop into a heladeria for a scoop of Malbec or Torrontes ice cream, both regional specialties. Tour the cathedral, then peruse the markets and shops for brightly colored ponchos made from llama wool, jewelry fashioned with precious stones and traditional yerba mate mugs. Asking questions about an item or negotiating may be a challenge, though. Unless they work at hotels and restaurants frequented by foreign tourists, most of Cafayate’s roughly 15,000 residents speak limited, if any, English. Paper and pencil and

Googled images on cellphones go a long way in bridging the communication gap. Before venturing to your first bodega, visit the Museo de la Vid y el Vino, two blocks east of the plaza on Route 40. The museum comprises two sections: the first describing what makes Cafayate such a unique wine region and the second telling the story of local winemaking. Signs are in both Spanish and English, and for 100 Argentine pesos (roughly $2.25), it’s well worth the visit. Ask for a map of the wine region at the Museo de la Vid y el Vino when you are ready to start tasting local wines. Or, before you leave home, print a map. You’ll find an excellent one at cafayate.com. Then, set out by rental car or taxi. You don’t need an appointment to visit any of the bodegas except Piattelli Vineyards, but don’t miss it. The most modern and one of the newest, Piattelli looks like it was lifted out of Napa and dropped in the desert foothills a few miles outside of town. Make a lunch reservation when you book your tour and tasting of Piatelli’s vintages from Cafayate and Mendoza. The restaurant’s patio, adjacent to a rose garden, overlooks the vineyards and valley below. By contrast, Bodega El Porvenir is one of the area’s most traditional wineries. The family-owned bodega offers tours on the hour six times per day, as well as tastings. Be sure to sample El Provenir, the bodega’s premium red blend, and consider timing your visit to lunch. You can dine in the property’s farmhouse, Finca el Retiro, enjoy a picnic lunch with your significant other in the vineyard or eat the empanadas you make during an on-site cooking class. Another traditional bodega, Finca Quara, is also arguably the most beautiful. Surrounded by immaculately landscaped gardens, the Spanish Colonial building features columns, arches and a wine

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National Route 40, Km. 4340 $$ PATIOS DE CAFAYATE WINE HOTEL Part of the Bodega El Esteco estate, this former colonial home features authentic Argentinian décor in its 32 oversized rooms. Enjoy complimentary sparkling wine every afternoon in the gardens. Intersection of national routes 40 and 68 $$ VILLA VICUÑA This 12-room boutique hotel just off Plaza Cafayate serves a free breakfast in its courtyard and lies a short walk from bodegas, restaurants and markets. Calle Belgrano 76 $$

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DINING

wn te is kno Cafaya rrontes, o T g n i c u for prod ually grape us e t i h w a wine to a dry n i e d a m ino. to Albar similar

BAD BROTHERS WINE EXPERIENCE Sample this restaurant’s two labels, Bad Brothers and the extreme-altitude Sunal, while sharing small plates like tannatbraised osso buco and quinoa tabouli with smoked salmon. Camila Quitanan del Niño 63 $$ PIATTELLI VINEYARDS Open only for lunch, the restaurant at Piattelli Vineyards offers sweeping views of the vineyards from its patio. Savor grilled beef along with a glass of the winery’s best.

TASTE OF THE TOWN:

Rib eye steak at Piattelli Vineyards (top), tasting at Bodega Domingo Hermanos, and Piattelli Vineyards exterior (bottom)

Ruta Provincial 2, Km. 3 $$

cellar available for private tastings of its Malbecs, Torrontes, Cabernet Sauvignons and other varietals. Come in March when the bodega celebrates its harvest with grape stomping, music and regional foods. (Argentina’s seasons are opposite those of North America, with December and January its hottest months.) Several bodegas lie in the town of Cafayate itself, within walking distance of the plaza. One of the most popular, Bodega Nanni pours organic wines, including a sweet Torrontes and a rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon. Purchase one of the reasonably priced bottles to bring home or to drink in the bodega’s courtyard. Nearby, Bodega Domingo Hermanos offers an exceptional value. While most tastings start at 100 Argentine pesos, its tastings only cost 50 pesos, roughly $1. For that, you receive four generous pours served with cheese made at the bodega. Plan to spend your time leisurely sipping the wines with your loved one. Afterward, cross the street and take a photo in front of the mural reading “Cafayate.” American-owned wine bar and restaurant Bad Brothers Wine Experience sits just off the plaza and proves a must.

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Located in a colonial home, it provides tastings of its highaltitude Bad Brothers wines and extreme-altitude (above 6,500 feet) Sunal wines. Staff manning the tasting area speak English, not always the case at the bodegas, so you can ask questions and gain a deeper understanding of local terroir and wines. Break up your visit to the bodegas with excursions into Quebrada de las Conchas. Guides around the plaza offer hiking, biking, horseback riding and 4x4 tours into the region. You can also arrange a visit to the Quilmes Ruins, the largest pre-Columbian settlement in Argentina. If you and your partner golf, call to book a tee time at the 18-hole, Bob Cupp-designed course in the La Estancia de Cafayate community. For those who want to add some romance to their visit, luxury hotel Grace Cafayate not only has the only local spa but also offers a couple’s massage room for side-by-side, one-hour massages followed by use of the room’s Jacuzzi and sauna for an additional hour. Sipping wine and savoring dulce de leche sweets delivered to you after the massage proves the perfect way to celebrate your visit to Cafayate.

LA ROSA Considered Cafayate’s best dining, the restaurant at Patios de Cafayate Wine Hotel offers a five-course menu paired with El Esteco wines in the evening. It is open for lunch, too. Patios de Cafayate Wine Hotel, intersection of national routes 40 and 68 $$$

bucket list | ITALY

Italian Lessons Make Montepulciano your home base for a jaunt through Tuscany. BY KELLY MAGYARICS

ABBONDANZA!: (Left to right) Aperol spritz at Villa la Massa, Agriturismo Nobile exterior, pizza in Tuscany, grapes on the vine at Castillo Banfi, and Banfi Cellar PHOTOS: © KELLY MAGYARICS

ALL FOODIES DREAM of a vacation in Tuscany — the challenge is figuring out just where to go. Stretching 8,900 square miles, the region is as vast as its wines and cuisine are irresistible, so you’ll want to narrow it down lest you spend all your time in the car navigating rather than lounging under the Tuscan sun sipping a dry red and nibbling on pecorino. First things first: If you really want to see the countryside, you’ll need to rent a car, which you can easily do in Florence. If you care to spend an evening or two adjacent to Tuscany’s capital in all her art-soaked and leather market splendor before venturing further out, consider booking a room at Villa la Massa. The 5-star property lies just close enough to make the city’s museums, restaurants and sights like Ponte Vecchio and Michelangelo’s David accessible yet removed enough to give you a taste of the bucolic lifestyle. Lush gardens surround the hotel, which overlooks the Arno River. Begin the day with a breakfast of charcuterie, cheese pastries, a mimosa and espresso on a patio table at its restaurant Verrocchio, while away a few hours in the pool with an Aperol spritz, and savor a nightcap of grappa or a Negroni at the cozy Medicean Bar. Continue on about an hour-and-a-half ’s drive to the town of Montepulciano, a medieval and Renaissance town in the province of Siena. You can’t miss it since the walled city sits higher than anything else in the

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area — an area renowned for its pork; cheese; lentils; pici (a hand-rolled wide pasta similar to spaghetti); and Vino Nobile, a Sangiovese-based wine that’s dry, grippy and age-worthy. The town itself isn’t navigable by car. (You’ll need to park outside the wall — if you can even find a spot.) But you won’t need to drive there at all if you check into Agriturismo Nobile. Located a stone’s throw from town (with a splendid view), this working farm and winery rents five bedrooms, five one- to three-bedroom apartments and a separate cottage dubbed La Casina. Apartment Stalla, especially inviting, boasts a large working kitchen with a communal hardwood table; all apartments feature local décor including brick archways, terra cotta-tiled floors and exposed stone walls. The pool beckons during hot summer afternoons, and owners offer niceties like a barbecue area, washing machine and drying racks, on-site restaurant and free shuttle service to and from town. Book a table in town on the terrace at sunset at Osteria del Borgo and settle in for a plate of pici topped with cinghiale (wild boar) or bistecca Fiorentina. It’s oh-so-fun to peruse the wine list and see so many bottles of red produced within just a few miles (don’t worry, it’s all but impossible to select a bad one), but it can be even more satisfying to order a liter carafe of the house red, sure to beat anything you can find back home. You’re

in Italy, so save some room for a few scoops of gelato at the coffee bar at Caffe Poliziano in flavors like fiordilatte, nocciola IGP of Piedmont and stracciatella. Ice cream is nice, but you most likely came to explore the vino. Think of Rosso di Montalcino as the region’s “house red”; a step up in quality is Brunello di Montalcino, and the highest quality is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. (Just like Chianti, they are all made from the Sangiovese grape; what differentiates them is where the grapes are grown, how long they are aged and other legal qualifications.) And none should be confused with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a grape hailing from a region east of Rome. A 15-minute drive from the agriturismo lies Villa S. Anna, a small, charming winery operation owned by Simona Fabroni and her daughters, Anna and Margherita. They make an amazing Vino Nobile that’s rarely exported, making it even more special. Email or call to let them know you are coming, and they will taste you through their offerings and even show you their cellar, featuring bottles dating back decades. When you find something you like (and you will), buy it, because you probably can’t get it at home. The winery produces a Chianti Colli Senesi, hailing from what most consider the region’s second-best subzone after Classico,

thanks to its high-quality soil. Fabroni calls it easy and fresh and perfect chilled as an aperitif. (Can you say “patio wine by the pool”?) For a much different winery experience, drive an hour west to Castello Banfi. Up on a hill surrounded by vineyards and tall cypress trees sits an impressive structure and grounds practically made for your Instagram story. Banfi Vintners introduced Brunello di Montalcino to consumers in the 1970s; today the company is known for a vast portfolio of stellar Italian reds. Book one of the daily tours held at 11 a.m. or 4 p.m. and taste the still and sparkling wines, grappa, extra virgin olive oil and Salsa Etrusca in L’Enoteca. Afterward, lunch at La Taverna, where you can enjoy a 3-, 4- or 5-course meal with or without wine pairings, or select from à la carte dishes like beef carpaccio, duck ravioli with carrot cream and eggplant cannolo. If you have a few minutes, breeze through the bottle and glass museum, with artifacts dating back to the fifth century B.C. And for a laid-back ending to the day, dine in the casual dining room at Osteria del Conte back in Montepulciano. Its warm and welcoming staff may recommend tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms, rosemaryseasoned grilled pork chops and caramel panna cotta. Deceptively simple yet complex in flavor, these dishes define the region itself.

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Tuscan cuisine is traditionally peasant fare, known for including just a handful of ingredients.

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kicking back | BORDEAUX

The Good Life Bordeaux boasts legendary wines, fine dining and enchantment galore. BY KATIE MCELVEEN INFO TO GO

Located about six miles from the city, BordeauxMérignac Airport offers a full schedule of domestic and international flights. In addition to taxis and city buses, a shuttle runs directly to the train station. High-speed train service from Paris’ Montparnasse station takes just a little more than two hours; traditional trains make the trip in about three and a half.

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IT’S BEEN MORE THAN 20 years since the city of Bordeaux shook off centuries of neglect and scrubbed the soot from its buildings, cleared the crumbling warehouses from its riverfront and reconfigured streets to make them more pedestrian-friendly. The results have been startling. Hidden for decades behind a dilapidated wharf, the Garonne River sparkles beyond a sweeping promenade that runs from the lively Chartrons district, where outdoor cafés give way to elegant antique shops along Rue Notre Dame, to Pont de Pierre, the graceful 19th-century bridge commissioned by Napoleon. There are parks, gardens, sculptures and fountains, too, most notably Le Miroir d’Eau,

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a massive black granite reflecting pool where splashing about has become a warm-weather ritual. Step away from the river and you’ll find centuries-old churches with soaring spires; the hefty towers of medieval Gross Cloche; and the 18thcentury Neoclassical Grand Théatre, rimmed with a dozen sculptures of Greek and Roman gods. In all, more than 350 structures set within UNESCO’s largest urban complex are listed as historic monuments. Then there’s the wine. Bordeaux’s dominance in the production and distribution of wine has its roots in the discovery, in the first century, of a grape variety that could withstand cold winters. It flourished in Bordeaux and — voilà — the modern wine industry was born. Well, not exactly. Centuries of refining methods of growing, harvesting, blending, aging and distributing wine came into play as well, but the end of the story remains the same: Bordeaux’s wines rate among the best in the world. Oenophiles interested in learning even more about wine now have a place to do it: La Cité du Vin, opened in 2016 and the world’s largest museum devoted to wine. Set within a massive golden carafe overlooking the river, the museum’s 10 levels of interactive exhibits detail the history, lore, tradition and art of wine. And it’s not just intellectual: Admission includes a trip to the Belvedère, the museum’s eighth-floor, glass-walled aerie, where free flights of wine from around the world are poured by friendly staffers eager to help visitors taste the difference between, say, Cabernet Sauvignons from various wine-producing regions around the globe. For a city surrounded by vineyards that produce some of the most pres-

tigious wines in the world, Bordeaux’s wine bars are refreshingly attitude-free. Set along a cobbled street in the lively Saint-Pierre neighborhood, Vins Urbains offers more than 250 varieties; you can buy a wonderful glass of wine for as little as €4 (about $4.50). Owners Jan and Christelle Bussiere are passionate about their vast collections and delighted to create impromptu flights. At The Wine Bar, tucked into Le Boutique Hôtel, sommelier Mike Germon holds blind tastings each evening at 5 p.m.; the €35 (about $40) price includes cheese and charcuterie. Bordeaux’s top wines, called “classified growths,” are rarely available by the glass; Bordeaux Wine Gallery is an exception, offering several classified wines for tasting. The system isn’t romantic — guests must insert a credit card into a sealed system which then dispenses the wine into the glass — but it provides a rare opportunity to try some of the region’s most legendary wines. Even the most austere Bordeaux wines seem less intimidating within the relaxed,

art-filled setting of the Bar à Vin, a tasting room run by the Bordeaux Wine Council. Take your pick of more than 30 wines by the glass, and don’t be afraid to ask for advice: Bar à Vin’s English-speaking staff is patient and well-informed. Tasters looking to deepen their knowledge can even enroll in an on-site wine school. Once you’ve found your favorites, head around the corner to L’Intendant, a wine shop that stocks only the wines of Bordeaux — including the less-expensive second and third labels of esteemed châteaux — among its 15,000 or so bottles. Ascending the steep spiral staircase that dominates the shop’s interior tests both pocketbooks and legs: With every turn, prices rise significantly. Wineries in locales such as Napa, Sonoma and Chile have always welcomed visitors, but that hasn’t always been the case in Bordeaux. Fortunately that tradition is changing, and in recent years many of the region’s historic estates opened their doors and cellars to guests. One, Château Beychevelle, has

BOUNTY OF BORDEAUX:

(Left to right) People riding bicycles in the mirror fountain, a tram rolling near Grand Théatre de Bordeaux, and La Cité du Vin wine shop PHOTOS: © TOPDEQ - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALVARO GERMAN VILELA - DREAMSTIME.COM © THIERRY PETRIS - DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING HOSTELLERIE DE PLAISANCE This former convent is now an elegant, 17-room Relais & Châteaux hotel with a 2-Michelin-starred restaurant. Guests can stay in town or at the nearby vineyard inn. 5 Place du Clocher, SaintÉmilion $$$$ HÔTEL LE PALAIS GALLIEN Located in a 19th-century private home just steps from an ancient amphitheater, this recently opened hotel

features bold interiors and a lovely courtyard with an outdoor pool. 144 Rue Abbé de l’Épée, Bordeaux $$$$ INTERCONTINENTAL BORDEAUX – LE GRAND HÔTEL It’s all about drama at this 130-room property, from the hip rooftop bar and flowerfilled courtyard to the blackgranite spa pool surrounded by two-story red pillars. 2-5 Place de la Comédie, Bordeaux $$$

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DINING GAROPAPILLES Love surprises? You’ll adore this tiny, unpretentious Michelinstarred restaurant which serves a single menu each evening. The wine list is filled with treasures, but go for the always-inspired pairings. 62 Rue Abbé de l’Épée, Bordeaux $$$$$ LA GRANDE MAISON DE BERNARD MAGREZ Star chef Pierre Gagnaire oversees the kitchen at the 2-Michelin-starred La Grande Maison, set within a 19th-century manse owned by wine magnate Bernard Magrez. 10 Rue Labottière, Bordeaux $$$$$ RACINES Chef Daniel Gallacher may be self-taught, but his stylish, wellbalanced dishes reflect his time in the kitchen with Alain Ducasse. Select from an extensive collection of wines by the glass, too. 59 Rue Georges Bonnac, Bordeaux $$$

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FRENCH ESTATE:

Château La Dominique (top), its terrace of garnet-colored glass pebbles, and fine French cuisine at the restaurant (bottom) PHOTOS: © CHÂTEAU LA DOMINIQUE

produced Cabernet-based wine in the Médoc village of Saint-Julien since 1565. At the imposing château filled with antiques and surrounded by formal gardens, a recent renovation added a strikingly contemporary cellar. In addition to private lunches and dinners and custom tastings, the château offers 12 guestrooms for overnight stays. Château La Dominique, a Saint-Émilion-area château, offers innovative programs like blind tastings and an introductory tour for children. The 17th-century estate’s renowned Jean Nouvelle-designed restaurant features a second-story terrace composed of smooth, garnet-colored glass pebbles. Located about 45 minutes northeast of Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion merits a visit on its own. Named for the Breton monk who settled in the region in the eighth century, the walled village presents a glorious tangle of hilly streets lined with wine shops (the Merlot-based wines crafted here are exceptional), restaurants and historic buildings. Several significant churches remain, including the Collegiate Church with its massive stained-glass windows and soaring Gothic arches. The Monolithic Church, carved from limestone, features a massive bell tower. With that exception, the church, with its quiet hermitage and catacombs, lies completely underground. Grab a glass of wine at one of the bustling outdoor cafés that fill the courtyard surrounding the church, or climb the stairs to Hostellerie de Plaisance, where a pretty patio overlooks the city’s atmospheric rooftops and, in the distance, acres of neat vineyards.

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lgbtq+

Rainbow Cheers Wineries around the globe welcome LGBTQ+ travelers. BY MARK CHESNUT

NEARLY EVERYONE LOVES a good toast. And when it comes to finding a welcoming place to savor the best wine, LGBTQ+ travelers are finding more options than ever. Multiple tour operators focused on the LGBTQ+ market create vacation itineraries that include wine tastings. HE Travel, for example, offers a Colors of Burgundy Gay Biking Tour in France that incorporates tastings of the region’s legendary varietals and cycling through the vineyards of the wine village of Pommard. At Detours Travel, meanwhile, a South Africa itinerary features stops in the famed wineries near Cape Town, with a ride on a winery train. In the United States, Northern California proves a hot spot for LGBTQ+ wine enthusiasts. Napa Sonoma Pride, taking place every year in June, is an especially festive time to visit. This year’s celebration, for example, included LGBT Night at JaM Cellars Tasting Room, a “Drag Queens of the Valley” show, brunch at the JaM Cellars ballroom and a pride fundraiser at Tannery Bend Brewery. An annual summer event in Sonoma, Gay Wine Weekend, is a three-day celebration hosted by an organization called Out in the Vineyard. This year it included a comedy night at Deerfield Ranch Winery, a dance party at Chateau St. Jean Winery and plenty of opportunities for tasting.

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Travelers looking to explore Washington state’s wine country will do well if they check into Meritage Meadows Inn, a gay-owned property in Redmond, outside of Seattle, that can provide insider tips and recommendations about the best wineries. LGBTQ+ wine enthusiasts may be surprised by the number of welcoming wine destinations. Oliver Winery, for example, is located in Bloomington, Indiana, ranked the fourth-gayest city in the country by The Advocate, the LGBTQ+ news magazine. The vineyard recently formed a partnership with Cardinal Spirits, which donates 10 percent of the proceeds from its Pride Vodka to LGBTQ+ organizations in various regions of the country. In New York state, wine lovers head to the Finger Lakes region for tastings and events at venues like Ravines Wine Cellars, which reports an impressive number of LGBTQ+ members in its Wine Club. Ravines also supports FLX Pride, the annual Finger Lakes LGBTQ+ pride festival.

WEST COAST WINE TASTING: Meritage Meadows Inn (left), and Chateau St. Jean Winery (right) PHOTOS: © MERITAGE MEADOWS, © CHATEAU ST. JEAN

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airport update

Gateway to the World Munich Airport expands with an eye to a sustainable future. BY ERICH MARTIN

ALL OVER THE WORLD it seems passenger volume breaks records on an annual basis. More and more passengers take to the skies for business and pleasure on an infrastructure seemingly long outpaced by the demand for air travel. Munich Airport is one of the airports where this rings true. Munich Airport began operations more than 26 years ago, in May 1992. In the following years it witnessed swelling passenger numbers. In 2018 the airport ranked the second-busiest in Germany and the seventh-busiest in all of Europe, accommodating 46.3 million passengers that year. MUC constantly looks for ways to accommodate more passengers and serve them with more luxury. The airport’s current project includes a total overhaul and expansion of Terminal 1. The project officially got the green light in 2018 and began construction in April this year. The airport fully detailed the current and upcoming projects in a publicly available 2018 integrated report. The theme of the report focuses on finding new ways to accommodate passengers and continue futureproofing the facility. The upgrades are expected to cost €455 million. The cost will be

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covered entirely by the airport’s own budget, meaning no outside funding will be used to make the changes. The expansion brings 1.02 million square feet of new floor space, including more than 7,500 square feet of dining and retail space. It also includes a new pier capable of housing 12 aircraft. The terminal will feature four new security checkpoints for U.S.-bound flights. In sharp contrast to the glaring white of the rest of the airport, the new areas feature warm and inviting colors. Airport access is also set to improve in big ways. Last winter new train lines running directly to the terminal improved and simplified the use of public transportation to the airport. Next, the airport will expand the underground railway tunnels under the airport at an investment of €115 million. By the time infrastructure work is complete, eastern and southeastern Bavaria will enjoy easy access to the airport. As Munich Airport looks toward the future, officials take seriously the need to build sustainably. Terminal 1’s expansion and all future construction projects are designed with sustainability at the forefront, resulting in reduced energy costs in the years moving forward, airport officials said.

EXPANSIVE PLANS: Munich Airport

Munich Airport munich-airport.com

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health

Ounce of Prevention Schedule a dental check-up before your next trip. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

AS YOU PLAN A BUSINESS TRIP or vacation, see your dentist before you travel. A dental checkup can determine the condition of your teeth and may prevent problems while traveling. Your hygienist can clean your teeth and look for any periodontal disease, and your dentist should examine your mouth for signs of infection, cavities, loose or broken teeth and cracked fillings. The dental team usually gives patients a soft toothbrush and sample sizes of toothpaste, mouthwash, floss and other items perfect to pack for travel. Schedule your appointment to allow enough time to complete any necessary dental work before your departure date to address conditions such as decayed teeth, a chipped tooth, broken fillings or a root canal. This will help you avoid infection and pain due to pressure changes during air travel. When traveling, try to brush and floss your teeth after each meal, or at least twice a day. Bring along the essentials for dental care such as toothbrush, toothpaste, mouthwash and floss or other flossing devices. Pack toothpaste for sensitive teeth and topical, over-the-counter medications for gum sores or tooth pain. Pack acetaminophen and ibuprofen for toothache pain from cabin air pressure or sinus pressure. Make sure all immunizations are up to date, especially hepatitis B, in case dentists abroad are not vaccinated. Protect your toothbrush with a covering or toothbrush cap to prevent contamination with germs. Make sure it is dry before you pack it away. Do not place your toothbrush on the sink near the toilet where it can be accidentally knocked into it. If your toothbrush gets con-

taminated, soak it in antibacterial mouthwash or hydrogen peroxide. On the road, avoid chewing ice or eating popcorn kernels and hard candy, which can cause micro and macro fractures in your teeth. Do not use your teeth as a tool to cut tape or other materials. Avoid eating foods or drinking beverages high in sugar. If this is unavoidable and you cannot brush or floss your teeth, rinse your mouth with water. If you do not have toothpaste, brush with water and rinse with mouthwash. If the water is not safe to drink, use bottled water. Wash your hands before any oral care. If you cannot brush while traveling, chew sugarless gum with xylitol to stimulate the flow of saliva to help clean your teeth. When on vacation, we often change our eating habits. Try to limit the times you treat yourself to sweets in a day. Each exposure makes a difference to your dental health. Eat a balanced, healthy diet while away from home. If you encounter dental problems, whether you wait until you get home or get treated right away depends on the situation. If you experience acute dental pain or lose a tooth, you may need to be examined immediately. A lost tooth has the best chance for recovery if it is inserted into the socket within 30 minutes. With issues such as the beginning of tooth pain or a chipped tooth, you may be able to wait for treatment. Use sugarless gum to replace a filling temporarily, or use dental cement, dental wax or petroleum jelly to reinsert a crown that has loosened and fallen out. Call your dentist even if you are overseas to discuss temporary remedies that might help you wait for treatment. Air travel can make dental issues worse. An untreated tooth might become extremely painful when you fly. Your dentist

might be able to prescribe medication for the pain. Do not fly immediately after having oral surgery; wait at least one to two days after surgery due to possible changes in cabin pressure. In most European countries the standard for dental education is comparable to that in the United States, according to the Journal of the American Dental Association. Many countries have dental associations, such as the American Dental Society of Europe ( ads-eu.org), whose members completed their dental education in a recognized dental school in the United States or Canada. The International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (iamat.org) maintains a network of medical personnel, hospitals and clinics around the world which agreed to treat IAMAT members in need of care. Any traveler can become a member; there is no membership fee, but a donation is welcome. The Organization for Safety, Asepsis and Prevention (osap.org) is a growing community of industry representatives who advocate for safe and infection-free delivery of oral health care. You want to make sure the dentist you visit overseas follows the same standards and practices as U.S. dentists such as cleaning, disinfection and sterility of all dental equipment; infection control practices; and patient safety. Dental referrals are also available from the hotel concierge, the American Consulate or the American Embassy of the country you are visiting. If you do not speak the local language, make sure the dentist speaks English. If you have travel insurance, the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 24/7 hotline can refer you to a qualified dentist. The best insurance to a healthy trip is to have your teeth in great condition before you leave.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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preview

Peter the Great purportedly brought in hundreds of foreign experts from around Europe to consult on St. Petersburg’s architecture, construction and administration in order to fulfill his vision of creating the “window onto Europe,” and the results of his work remain evident today. Learn more about St. Petersburg next month as you read 9–5: St. Petersburg. PHOTO: © NIKOLAEV - DREAMSTIME.COM

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August 2019 Global Traveler

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