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letter from the editor ®
EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com
JOURNEY ON! WOW! IT’S HARD TO believe we’re celebrating our 15th anniversary. This month my photo features a majority of the team who helps make the magazine happen every month and ensures our continued success. I think we can all agree this is a momentous occasion for which to raise a glass and say, “Cheers!” I remember clearly arriving CHEERS!: for my job interview more than 12 Kimberly Krol with members of the GT team years ago. In 2006, just two years PHOTO: © YASSER OGANDO after Francis X. Gallagher took a risk that certainly paid off, I made my way up the stairs, painted with a colorful cityscape, of our original office, perched atop a doctor’s office in Yardley, Pennsylvania, unsure of what to expect and still surprised to find a travel magazine operating just 20 minutes from my hometown. Fast forward to today — because the time really has flown — and we’ve moved and expanded offices, grown our suite of products and staff significantly, and made incredible memories along the way. I’m fortunate to be part of the ride, and I’m proud to head up an unbelievable editorial team. Day to day, I work with the best people, knowing I can always rely on them to help produce 16 print issues a year and 16 articles a day across our three websites, and that’s just the beginning. On this 15th anniversary, I want to take the opportunity to thank them for their hard work, dedication and friendship. We wouldn’t be here without them and all the members of our special team. Last month I let you know some of what’s ahead this year. In this anniversary issue, we debut a new look for our back page. Flip to the end of the magazine for Preview, which will, each issue, offer a glimpse at what’s to come next month. The celebration continues on the following pages. Our worldwide party takes us to Brussels; Milan; Tunis; the Swiss Alps; Chengdu; Tbilisi; Bermuda; Birmingham, Alabama; Austin, Texas; and Mykonos. Next month we recap our annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards event and look more closely at UNESCO World Heritage sites. Here’s to continued success on the next 15 years of the journey!
Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com
ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN
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WRITERS
KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE
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ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob
CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE
ational The sens ouvelN n ea J designed tion conven now in r te n ce ment p o el ev d the to s d d a tings ee m new n more mix. Lear ssels on ru B t ou ab page 50.
ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB
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letter from the publisher ® ®
TIME FLIES! WHAT AN INCREDIBLE SHOCK to realize 15 years have passed since we first put Global Traveler into the hands of our readers! I recall people asking if the world needed another travel magazine. I usually replied, “No, but we always need something better,” and that has been our goal. We achieved this success by extending the brand into trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com since celebrating our 10th anniversary. We have adapted and changed, but Global CROSSING THE POND : Traveler and globaltravelerusa.com Fran with his wife on the bridge of the QM2 continue to advocate for the aims of PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER the frequent traveler. Our target strategy of writing and designing a magazine for business/luxury travelers sets us apart from the mass consumer titles, websites and blogs. Our readers can never be tagged as road warriors or armchair travelers. They are dynamic and energetic travelers who collect destinations and experiences with as much concern as others collect recipes. Often, they combine business and leisure trips but then take off for that once-in-a-lifetime experience. In the past 15 years we strove to be a market leader through our circulation, marketing research and the unending copy we produce exclusively for you. Highlights of our history include the launch of the magazine in 2004, shifting the number of yearly issues from the original 10 to 12 and now to 16 editions. We redesigned the publication at the height of the recession, adding to its size and creating a wider format. Finally, we relaunched our website, globaltravelerusa.com, (multiple times) to include daily articles, news and deals and better searchability and search engine optimization. Monthly unique visitors continue to grow. Add to this trazeetravel.com and wherverfamily.com in the past five years, and FX Excursions more than a year ago, and you can see we reach a dynamic and diverse market. Trazee Travel also went through a redesign this past year, with the goal to keep all our content fresh and relevant. Of course, we benefit from fantastic trips all around the world from Egypt to Portugal and Rio to London. When asked if it was all worth it, I say without a doubt, “Yes!” I owe a great deal to the dedicated team here at FXExpress Publications, Inc. We could never have made it without their consistent and ongoing efforts. There is always room to do things better or in a different way. Join us for the next 15 years of adventure!
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contents
February 2019
PHOTOS: © DEYAN DENCHEV - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SCALIGER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM
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FEATURES
BUSINESS DESTINATIONS
40 Well-Wishes Leaders from around the travel industry extend congratulations as Global Traveler celebrates its 15th anniversary.
54 Destination One: Chengdu Chengdu heats up as a fashionable global city.
42 Get Out the Vote As we embark further into the new year, voting is underway for the annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards. 46 Safe and Secure Protect your devices from cyber attacks while traveling. 50 A Brussels Breakout The capital of Europe broadens its potential to host meetings and events.
60 Stateside: Birmingham Birmingham surges forward as an epicenter for technology startups. 62 9–5: Milan Impress clients in prosperous and multifaceted Milan. 64 After 5: Tunis Tunis comes to life with the setting sun.
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• Osaka Mumb ce • Portla • Onomichi • Omaha • Port-au-Prin Carmen Oldenburg • Playa del • Pittsburgh Phoenix Acapulco
Leaders from around the travel industry extend congratulations as Global Traveler celebrates its 15 anniversary.
COVER PHOTO: CELEBRATING GT ’S FIFTEENTH ANNIVERSARY PHOTOS: © ZIMMYTWS - DREAMSTIME.COM, © EVREN KALINBACAK, © PLEJ92 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SCALIGER - DREAMSTIME .COM, © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © PHOTOALIONA DREAMSTIME.COM, © NAEL_PICTURES - DREAMSTIME.COM
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contents
February 2019 68
72
23
74
25 74 LIFESTYLE
CONNECTIONS
LEISURE DESTINATIONS
25 Technology 28 Wine & Spirits 29 Wealth 32 Tours 34 Spas 36 Chefs 37 Cruising 77 LGBTQ+ 81 Health
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66 Neighborhoods: Austin Sixth Street East transforms into a trendy destination.
Mail Call News Reviews One on One Iberia 24 One on One American Airlines 80 Airport Update 82 Preview
68 Friends & Family: Tbilisi Meet up in the creative Georgian city for culture and cuisine. 72 Bucket List: Swiss Alps Enjoy legendary skiing in Switzerland’s dramatic mountain scenery. 74 Kicking Back: Bermuda Escape to the idyllic isle of beaches, beauty and sea breezes.
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FX E X P R E S S
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P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .
Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2019 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
PHOTOS: © XANTANA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © MICHAEL PORTMANN, © ANKER INNOVATIONS, LTD, © HOTEL BALNEARIO LAS ARENAS, © RINA NEHDAR
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mail call Q&A WITH ERICH MARTIN, ASSISTANT EDITOR
Q&A WITH PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS,
In our December 2018 issue, Erich Martin, assistant editor, discussed his fondest travel memories from his childhood. Thinking about his family trips as a kid brought up the questions: Which travel memories do you cherish the most? Do you hold on to sentimental family trips more than extravagant travel? Every summer my family would rent a big beach house in the Outer Banks and camp out on the beach. We had so much fun grilling and playing on the beach as kids, so we kept the tradition going into adulthood. We still take a few weeks out of the year to rent a house at the end of summer and invite any and all family who can attend. Everyone comes when they can, brings food, and we have a mix of family and friends so each year is different. It’s a fun tradition and one I hope instills some of the same memories I had as a kid in our kids and their kids. ROBERT FELDMAN, via email We didn’t travel a ton when I was a kid, so pretty much every vacation memory is a standout, but definitely our big trip to Europe when I was 10 is a memory I will never forget. SUZANNE WESTON, via email
ASSOCIATE EDITOR/COPY EDITOR
My husband and I and another couple, good friends of ours, are planning a trip this fall to Spain and Portugal. In order to visit several regions, cities and towns both large and small, we’d like to rent a vehicle and make it an extended road trip. Having never driven internationally before, I’d like to know: What tips do you have for undertaking such a journey? If you’ve made such a trip, what would you consider essential take-alongs and key elements to consider? Any pitfalls we should try to avoid? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com
globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99
November 2018
THE CRUISING ISSUE Set sail on a rising tide of new cruise vessels and voyages. p. 44
CARIBBEAN CRUISING p.66 COCHIN p. 64 COZUMEL p. 72 FORT LAUDERDALE p. 58 LISBON p. 52 NEW ORLEANS p. 60 TRANS-ATLANTIC CROSSING p. 70 VENICE p. 62
LETTER TO THE PUBLISHER After Global Traveler’s first-ever Cruising Issue launched in November 2018, a reader wrote in to publisher Francis X. Gallagher with a few thoughts along the same cruising theme:
Congrats on your initial Cruising Issue endeavor providing an “across the bow” smorgasbord of various cruise lines. Any cruise works for me, with special enjoyment for significant time-at-sea voyages. The secret to a great-fit cruise is matching the personality/DNA of the travelers with the unique DNA of the ship: In other words, it’s like fitting someone with the right shoes. One size doesn’t fit all. Less can be more! Today’s seasoned cruiser will stay away from the mega ships (up to 6,000 passengers) and any ship with more than 1,500 passengers (the exception being Cunard’s legendary Queen Mary 2 for [a] classic trans-Atlantic crossing).
Alaska cruising is not necessarily a cold-weather destination but more of a mild-weather, May–September cruise destination and is particularly attractive for multigenerational family travel. It’s America’s last frontier. Expedition cruising has also come into vogue with the Galápagos and Antarctica receiving much attention. River cruising has taken on a whole new life and niche of its own, especially in Europe, with competitive product offerings [and] uniquely providing upfront berthing in quaint village towns. Like ocean cruises, the focus is on cultural immersion and themed sailing, such as wine/ epicurean engagement. JAMES FERGUSON, via email
CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.
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mail call 9–5 | CAPE TOWN
CRUISING COVER Our November 2018 issue and firstever Cruising edition featured an image of a Viking River Cruises vessel floating by the Hungarian Parliament building along the Danube River in Budapest, Hungary. We detailed the main image, the Viking River Cruises vessel, and where the photograph was taken. A few readers wrote in with different views: I was given your November issue by a relative who knew I was an experienced cruiser and thought I would enjoy seeing it. By the time I plowed through the front matter and found your address on page 10, I was disappointed and annoyed. The gorgeous architectural creation on the cover attracted my attention. Immediately, I asked myself, “What is it?” and “Where is it?” It was not identified on the cover. There was no mention of the cover at all on the first five pages of front matter I searched. But I was relieved to find the small page six note “ON THE COVER.” Alas, that note totally ignored the magnificent gigantic structure that aroused my curiosity and was the central feature of the cover photograph. I still don’t know what it is. So much for encouraging your readers’ interest in traveling to new and awesome places! JOHN TASKER, via email I absolutely loved the November issue! I’m an avid cruiser, and the image grabbed me immediately. I have been lucky enough to cruise along the Danube River many times, and the Parliament building is an absolutely stunning sight. I enjoyed the mix of stories and different
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cruise options. I typically stick to what I know and destinations that most interest me, but the blend of options opened my eyes to a few new ideas for my husband and me next year!
Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers
AMELIA TRAINER, via email 62
I first saw the November Cruising Issue of your magazine in an airport lounge during a work trip and was immediately drawn to the image on the cover. My wife and I take a cruise once a year, at least, so I think of myself as a pretty avid cruiser. Beautiful magazine — I will keep an eye out for the next one on my trip next month. TRUMAN LORIA, via email
’TIS THE SEASON In our Dec. 10, 2018, WhereverFamily News newsletter, we featured an article on the best experiences to gift this holiday season, inspiring a reader to write in: This year for my boyfriend’s birthday, I surprised him with a TopGolf experience, and I highly recommend giving experiences as gifts, no matter what the celebration. It was a milestone birthday, and he was so surprised. The surprise activity would have been enough, but having two private rooms and all of our friends join turned the activity into a party. We had such a great time, and it was easily one of the better gifts I’ve given. RACHEL MASON, via email
passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques
globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2018
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news
Will Alaska Airlines Join the Oneworld Alliance?
PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © ALASKA AIRLINES, © FOTOCROMO - DREAMSTIME.COM
SKYSCANNER REVEALS THE WORLD’S MOST TRUSTED AIRLINES
Travel search engine Skyscanner released the results of its first Trusted Traveler Awards, a list of the most trustworthy airlines based on input from travelers. Criteria included an airline’s online booking process, customer service, fares, clarity of information regarding extra costs and results from its Partner Quality Ratings. These ratings were established in 2016 to aid customers not only in finding the best price but also in securing the best overall booking and flight experience. Coming out on top in the first year of awards was American Airlines, followed by Delta Air Lines (the only other U.S. airline to make the list), Lufthansa and Eurowings. Other honorable mentions include Transavia (a Dutch low-cost carrier under the Air France-KLM umbrella); Flybe (a U.K.-based short-haul airline); and Condor, based in Germany. Skyscanner, which partners with 99 percent of the world’s airlines, received more than 1 billion customer responses last year from customers who booked flights based on information they found on the search site. skyscanner.com
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Back in late November, Alaska Airlines’ chief commercial officer announced the airline may consider joining the oneworld alliance. As the only major North American airline not part of one of the world’s top three flight alliances, its move to oneworld would not be a full commitment, as it would join the oneworld connect tier of membership, along with Fiji Airways. This level of membership caters to smaller, more regional airlines that aren’t responsible for the costs that come with full alliance membership. With this change, passengers won’t receive all the same perks they would with other oneworld alliance members, but they can still expect some benefits. This transition for Alaska would mean more possible connections with member airlines from Alaska Airlines’ popular cities of Los Angeles (LAX), San Francisco (SFO) and Seattle (SEA) to destinations abroad. Joining oneworld, even as a connect member, would mean easier booking with fellow member airlines such as American, British Airways and Qantas. alaskaair.com
Airlines May Weigh Carry-Ons
As airlines drop fares in exchange for à la carte pricing, some travelers opt to carry on only, removing the hassle of paying extra cash for a checked bag. However, airlines still have weight restrictions for carry-on bags, an obstacle most travelers have been able to bypass. This may change. A few airlines around the world have begun to weigh passengers’ carry-on bags before they even go through security. By withholding boarding passes until a passenger physically checks in at the airport, airlines have more control over the weight of bags. If a bag weighs too much, the airline may request passengers remove heavy items and toss them or opt to check their bag for an additional fee. Australian airline Qantas will begin to weigh passengers’ bags at the boarding gate, offering gate-checking for bags too heavy for overhead bins.
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news
Norwegian’s Summer Flights Make Europe Accessible
Near the end of 2018, low-cost long-haul carrier Norwegian Air announced new routes for summer 2019, offering Americans even more incentive to finally book a European vacation. Norwegian’s summer 2019 offerings will include two additional non-stop routes from Boston’s Logan International Airport to Rome (FCO) and Madrid (MAD). Fares for a one-way ticket from Boston to Rome — beginning March 31 — will start as low as $300 for an economy seat, not including all the bells and whistles that come with booking a no-frills fare (such as seat selection, luggage and in-flight meals). Premium seats on a one-way flight will start at $780. The Boston–Madrid route debuts May 2 and will be slightly cheaper, at $200 for a one-way seat in economy and $640 for a one-way premium seat.
As of Dec. 1, Delta Air Lines increased the prices for its in-flight beverage service, taking a cue from competing airlines American and Southwest, who raised drink prices in 2018. The price for each beverage on Delta’s drink menu increased by $1, bringing the new cost for beer to $8 and $9 (for domestic and imported, respectively) and wine, liquor and specialty cocktails to $9. The price for a glass of sparkling wine has not changed, staying at $9. The price changes do not apply to passengers in Delta’s premium seats and Comfort Plus economy seats, who can enjoy free beer, wine and cocktails. delta.com
norwegian.com
Southwest’s New Terminal at LAX
With an investment of $516 million, Southwest Airlines was able to open its own terminal at Los Angeles International Airport. Thirteen gates comprise Southwest Airlines’ Terminal 1, a space neglected in terms of updates and design since the 1980s. The investment from Southwest introduced art displays (both temporary and permanent), increased natural light, a new security checkpoint and 20-plus dining and shopping options for travelers. Dining selections include the Beaming Organic Superfood Cafe, Cassell’s Hamburgers (an L.A. favorite), the organic Urth Caffe from Manhattan Beach and the first airport location of Trejo’s Tacos. Travelers can shop at MAC for makeup or stop by Be Relax for a pre-flight spa treatment. The terminal can accommodate 133 departures per day from its 13 gates. southwest.com
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Last Fall’s Routes Carry Over
Several new routes that debuted in fall 2018 continue into 2019, offering even more variety in terms of both departure and destination locations. On Nov. 2, 2018, Singapore Airlines launched a new thrice-weekly route from Los Angeles (LAX) to Singapore (SIN) which will continue in 2019 and will be joined by a new Seattle–Singapore route this September. Also in early November, Southwest introduced new routes that will continue throughout 2019, including routes within the United States: New York (LGA) to New Orleans (MSY), Burbank (BUR) to Houston (HOU) and Chicago (MDW), and Houston to Philadelphia (PHL) and Sacramento (SMF). Flights to Mexico include Columbus (CMH) and Nashville (BNA) to Cancún (CUN), Chicago to Cabo San Lucas (SJD), and Denver (DEN) to Puerto Vallarta (PVR). Flights to the Caribbean connect Fort Lauderdale (FLL) to Grand Cayman (GCM) and Turks and Caicos (PLS).
PHOTOS: © BJORNFORENIUS - DREAMSTIME.COM, © PROCHASSON FREDERIC - DREAMSTIME.COM, © STEVEHEAP - DREAMSTIME.COM
Delta Increases In-Flight Drink Prices
deals & rewards
Lyft, Uber Launch Loyalty Programs
Popular ridesharing apps Lyft and Uber both announced loyalty/rewards programs for faithful riders. Lyft’s rewards program will differ slightly from its specialized rewards program for business travelers, introduced in February 2018. Passengers in the program will be able to earn points for each dollar spent with Lyft, which can be saved and used for future upgrades in Lyft Lux vehicles or for ride discounts. Meanwhile, a similar rewards program recently launched at Uber. Riders also will be able to earn points with each Uber ride, as well as with Uber Pool and Uber Eats. In accruing these points, Uber riders can reach various levels of membership (Blue [fewer than 500 points], Gold [500 to 2,500 points], Platinum [2,500 to 7,500 points] and Diamond [higher than 7,500 points]), each of which offers benefits such as priority airport pickup and price lock-ins during late hours or in inclement weather — periods during which rates for rides increase. To participate in the program, Uber will take into account all rides for the six months prior to sign-up. lyft.com uber.com
PHOTOS: © JULIE BLY - DREAMSTIME.COM, © CAPITAL ONE
2018’s Best Hotel Rewards Programs
The results are in: These were 2018’s best hotel rewards programs. Based on a recent study conducted by WalletHub, 10 hotel rewards programs came out on top when considering amenities like late check-out, in-room dining options including snacks, loyalty perks, redemption capabilities and accessibility for all travelers, as well as other criteria such as geographic representation. Heading the list, Wyndham Rewards gives travelers nearly $15 back for every $100 spent at its properties. Wyndham was trailed by Best Western Rewards, Radisson Rewards, Marriott Rewards and Choice Privileges. The final five were World of Hyatt, Hilton Honors, La Quinta Returns, Drury Gold Key Club and the IHG Rewards Club. wallethub.com
Capital One Beefs Up Travel Card Rewards
Travelers who carry one of Capital One’s travel credit cards will soon enjoy more benefits that make the card slightly more competitive with the travel rewards heavy hitters like American Express and Chase. These two cards offer the most flexibility in terms of transferring points to partner airlines and redeeming frequentflyer rewards, but Capital One follows suit and will soon allow reward redemption across 12 airlines. The new perks will apply to holders of the Capital One Venture and VentureOne Rewards credit cards. For every two Capital One points, cardmembers can transfer 1.5 frequent-flyer miles to participating airline partners, which will include Air France/KLM, Cathay Pacific, Etihad Airways, Qantas and Qatar Airways, among others. capitalone.com
FEBRUARY 2019
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GT tested
BRITISH AIRWAYS | CLUB WORLD
London (LHR) to Philadelphia (PHL)
Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher On the Ground: I checked in online the night before and forwarded our boarding passes to the front clerk at the Corinthia Hotel for printing. I was traveling with my wife after crossing the Atlantic on the Queen Mary 2 and spending a few days in London to see friends. I arranged a car service to take us to Heathrow, which turned out to be a smart move, as the trains were all stopped due to an issue. Checking luggage was swift, as was security, and I was looking forward to spending some time in the British Airways lounge. However, a traffic delay did not allow us that luxury. Instead, we took the airport train system to the gate and waited for the plane to board.
In-Flight: I find the seating on BA’s business class a little awkward. My middle seat faced backward, so I looked directly in the face of the woman sitting on the aisle. We chatted for a while and she was pleasant, but we both agreed to pull up the privacy screen after takeoff. Fortunately, the gentleman behind her never fully reclined, so I had an easy path to the bathroom during the entire flight; otherwise, I would have had to step over him and straddle his feet to get in and out.
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Once airborne, attendants distributed amenity kits, and the BA machine was in full swing as dinner orders and cocktails appeared. I ordered a scotch, served in a rather nice tumbler of cut glass and accompanied by warmed nuts. Unfortunately, this flight was not serving the second- and third-place wines from our survey — Oldenburg Vineyards Chardonnay 2016, South Africa, and Waimea Pinot Gris 2016, New Zealand — but as I ordered a seared filet of British beef, I selected Château de Ruth 2017, Sainte-Cecile Côtes du Rhone Villages, recommended by my flight attendant. By then we had become chummy. The crew offered cheeses and sweets after dinner and presented teas with sandwiches before landing. As this was a day flight, I watched several movies including The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society. I also accessed BA’s WiFi for a reasonable fee and emailed my team during the entire flight, making great use of the time. British Airways is excited about its new uniform designer, Ozwald Boateng, OBE. The new designs are rather smart and seem like a big hit with the crew. British Airways is investing approximately $5.7 billion over the next five years and will install higher-quality WiFi and power in every seat, outfit 128 long-haul aircraft with new interiors and take delivery of 72 new aircraft. Next year, BA will also introduce a new Club World seat with direct aisle access to really bring the airline up to speed with others as it reaches its 100-year anniversary.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ The new Club World seats will help one of aviation’s best innovators move back to the top ranking. ◆ Philadelphia International Airport can use some basic help with luggage delivery. ◆ A good selection of movies kept me entertained, and the WiFi was superb. BRITISH AIRWAYS ba.com PHOTO: © BRITISH AIRWAYS
Pre-Flight: Once the flight started boarding, we were both selected for an additional security check. It was rather detailed, involving taking the escalator down to the boarding tunnel (jetway), where a makeshift security team went through luggage and asked passengers to lift up clothing for review. Perhaps this was due to our one-way ticketing, but those selected hardly fit any profile. Once clear, we were directed back up the escalator to line up for the flight. Getting all settled with carry-on bags stowed took a few minutes, then the crew passed around newspapers and served Champagne. We were offered the middle seats in a row of four business-class flat beds. As a couple, this was fine, but I imagine it might be awkward as strangers. I was looking forward to tasting BA’s award-winning wines from our annual Wines on the Wing survey (ranked fifth globally) and settling in for my flight.
GT tested
THE RITZ-CARLTON, HONG KONG Reviewed by Carly Allen Arrival/Check-In: I took a taxi from Hong Kong International Airport on a warm Sunday afternoon. Traffic was light, taking only about 30 minutes into the welcoming drive of the International Commerce Centre. The hotel, located on the top floors of the towering building in Kowloon, presents a feel of class, business and expectation upon arrival. Valets greet you at the drive and escort you to the elevator, where you’re directed to the 103rd floor. The vast lobby presents an ambience of dark marble, wood and soft lighting and bustles with guests. As I was staying in a club suite room, I was directed to the Club Lounge on the 116th floor, where I sat next to the large windows and sipped tea during check-in. It was only 10 a.m., but the hotel accommodated my early check-in.
PHOTOS: © THE RITZ-CARLTON, HONG KONG
Guest Quarters: My Grand Victoria Harbour room was simply perfect. Walking through my hallway of warm woods and into the room, I immediately noticed the panoramic views of Hong Kong and natural light spilling in through the windows. The light playing off the combination of dark wood furniture accents and cream carpets provided a cozy feeling of coming home. The king-sized bed dominated the right side of the room with its 400-thread-count linens, down pillows and dreamy mattress that offered an excellent night’s sleep. Both large side tables offered electrical outlets for charging smartphones and tablets. A 42-inch, flat-screen TV faced the bed, and a marble console built into the wall under the TV ran along the entire side of the room, offering a place to hold all my loose items. The large desk sat in front of the windows, with numerous electrical outlets and a comfy chair; however, I spent most of my working time sitting in the window seats to look at the view while catching up on email. The full marble bathroom featured an open concept with bright lighting. The cream-accented double sink offered plenty of space for personal items, and extra lighting surrounded the oversized mirror. The vanity included multiple outlets, but be careful — the socket blew out my hair tool. The Ritz-Carlton’s specialized Aspry amenities have a rich citrus scent, delicate and not overwhelming for female guests. The large, stand-alone shower included a rainfall showerhead, always a favorite of mine. Frosted glass separated the shower and toilet room. As this was my second stay at the property, on my second night I arrived at my room to find decorations of balloons, flowers and a card saying, “Welcome back.” After a long day of meetings, it was a lovely surprise. Services/Amenities: The Ritz-Carlton in-room dining menu is extensive and quick; however, if you are staying on the club level, the Club Lounge is the place to dine. It truly is the heart of the property with its floor-to-ceiling windows, comfortable couches and lots of extra seating. I spent most of my time here while in house. Breakfast is served until 10:30 a.m., and I enjoyed a daily tasting of dim sum and a pot of English breakfast tea. The concierge was helpful with directions, arranging reservations or printing items. Before dinner, if you crave a small bite or glass of wine, the evening service offers fresh hot plates of Cantonese favorites and a choice of Champagne — great to bring a business partner to as well. The property boasts more premium dining experiences including Tosca, a unique take on Italian cuisine, and exclusive Michelin-starred Tin Lung Heen for authentic Cantonese cuisine. Be sure to make a reservation before your trip. The OZONE lounge/bar — promoted as the highest bar in the world and accessed via an elevator off the lobby — includes an outdoor bar and seating area for views of the city and serves premium cocktails like the Dragon’s Back and Tropical Cyclone. It’s pricey but a must experience. After all the food, head to the 24-hour fitness center on the top floor, unmatched at any other Hong Kong property. Guests can run on the many treadmills or swim in the lap pool with full views of the city — quite an incentive to stay awhile.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ The team at The Ritz-Carlton makes every guest feel welcome and loves to share ideas to enhance your stay. ◆ The renowned Club Lounge is a must for any business traveler as it offers great food, quick service and help with any directions. ◆ Find amazing views of the city and Victoria Harbour from the guestrooms, restaurants and gym. ◆ Centrally located just a quick car or MTR ride away from business, shopping and dining THE RITZ-CARLTON, HONG KONG International Commerce Centre 1 Austin Road W. Kowloon, Hong Kong tel 852 2263 2263 ritzcarlton.com
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GT tested
FAIRMONT GRAND DEL MAR Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher Arrival/Check-In: I arrived a little early before check-in time and found my room was not ready. Not a problem; I figured I could check my email in the Lobby Lounge and have a late lunch. I enjoyed a really lovely cheese plate while I waited to be notified my room was ready. About an hour and a half later, I checked again and was told it still was not ready, which was disappointing. Finally, two hours later, I returned again to discover it was ready; the individual had not bothered to inform me. There is no question the hotel was busy; and people were checking out late; and many guests were arguing over the resort fee, which they claimed they did not know about. It was a little embarrassing to overhear these conversations. The fee is reported on the hotel website to be $40 per room per night; some of the families checking out had multiple rooms, so you can imagine their concern. A wonderful bellman took me to my room and brought my luggage; he worked there since the hotel opened, and I recalled him from my previous stays.
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◆ Grand as grand can be, with beautiful gardens! ◆ The property offers a fantastic golf experience.
Services/Amenities: I cannot say enough about the golf course and the service there (see my review in the September 2018 issue). There are many restaurants, and I encourage guests to try them. Addison has always been one of my top favorites and features Chef William Bradley’s artisanal approach to creating a lovely experience (GT interviewed Chef Bradley back in 2007). Amaya offers Mediterranean cuisine and great views of the course and makes a good spot for breakfast with your extended family. I find the Lobby Lounge cozy and friendly, a great place to unwind. The golf course offers the Clubhouse Grill, and you can easily walk there. As I was teeing up early and had some work to catch up on, I chose room service the first night but was disappointed at how slow it was, and I had to call down for status at both dinner and breakfast — something I never recall doing before. The food was well done, however; I just think in-room dining became overwhelmed when people like me decided to stay in for the evening. I also had a hard time securing a simple box to ship some items. I can’t be the only guest who looks for this service.
◆ The bathroom included top amenities and shampoos by Red Flower. FAIRMONT GRAND DEL MAR 5300 Grand Del Mar Court San Diego, CA 92130 tel 858 314 2000 fairmont.com
PHOTOS: © FAIRMONT GRAND DEL MAR
Guest Quarters: By the hotel’s standards, my room was small and the balcony was tiny, but the enormous bathroom made up for this. From the room entrance, a long hallway led to the bathroom on the right, then to a nicely set-up minibar and the open room with a king-sized bed flanked by two nightstands. One wall of the room included a cut-out from the bathroom tub, which could be opened or closed as you soak away. A little vanity was positioned in the cut-out area, and the far right corner was complemented with a curved sofa and small table. A desk provided ample room to set up shop, but the electrical systems by the desk seemed antiquated. A large TV was oddly mounted in a gaudy picture frame, making it hard to view from the desk. The room was comfortable, and I was able to sit on the mini deck and watch people enjoying the gardens below. The bathroom was a tub lover’s dream with a large soaking tub on the left; double marble sinks; a huge, separate shower stall; and a commode with its own door for privacy. A large changing area was helpful for me, as I was transitioning between trips and was shipping some clothing back home as I continued onward. There is no question the resort is now fully family-friendly, and there were virtually no couples or singles staying at the hotel, mainly families with children and their multigenerational relatives.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
GT tested
HOTEL ZEPPELIN SAN FRANCISCO Reviewed by Carly Allen
Arrival/Check-In: I lived in San Francisco during college, so visiting the city and seeing all the changes made for a fun and exciting getaway. The Hotel Zeppelin resides in a once slightly shabby area that has since come alive with new hotels and restaurants for travelers looking for something different. We arrived at noon on a Friday, and the hotel front desk staff immediately greeted us. They were able to accommodate an early check-in, completed in just a few minutes. The lobby is as hip as the hotel name sounds, but it also offers a cozy atmosphere, with a roaring fire and comfy couches and chairs in the lounge area. Unique wall art, statues and lighting remind guests of the cool factor.
PHOTOS: © HOTEL ZEPPELIN SAN FRANCISCO
Guest Quarters: Our premier room was even more fun than I expected. Walking into the small entrance, we discovered a bar with an espresso machine, a mini fridge and lots of complimentary water; this all sat across from a generous, full-sized mirror. The heather-gray walls and high ceiling gave the room an airy feel, and decent light came through the full wall of windows, despite the fire escape just outside. Two full beds were separated by a large side table, which provided a chic green lamp and a double-sided outlet for everyone’s electronics. Adjacent, the lounge area featured full-sized couches and funky tie-dyed pillows next to a 55-inch, mounted TV. A great John Boos desk offered plenty of space and outlets. I was even more delighted by the gift bottle of Pinot Noir and Circus Animal cookies sitting atop it. By far the best part of the room was the ceiling light which, when turned on, projected a peace sign and the word “love” on the ceiling. The slate-tiled bathroom featured wallpaper with gray-and-white names of famous bands like The Doors and Santana. A single, raised black bowl sink on a white counter provided plenty of space for personal and beauty products. Three hanging bulbs surrounded a large mirror and gave great lighting. I loved the Roil products offered to guests, including the body lotion and wash. The stand-alone, glass-enclosed shower was roomy, and I enjoyed the great water pressure. As everyone knows, I am a robe snob, and the Zeppelin’s jersey hooded robes were comfortable, soft and not overly large. Services/Amenities: The hotel offers room service, but I recommend trying the Rambler Bar & Restaurant, its on-property eatery. On Friday and Saturday nights it’s a typical San Francisco eatery with loud music and groups of young and old gathering together. The pizzas are cooked in a stone oven, and the pumpkin soup was perfect for a colder evening. The fitness center sits on the upper floors of the hotel, giving you a unique view of the San Francisco skyline as you use the modern cardio and weights — perfect if it’s a rainy or windy afternoon. If you are up for a challenge, try walking up Powell Street’s steep incline through Nob Hill and Russian Hill — just follow the cable car!
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ This boutique hotel gives off major cool but approachable vibes. Great for a weekend with friends. ◆ The Rambler is perfect for an evening meal with its small plates and local craft cocktails and drinks. ◆ From the central location near Union Square, enjoy a nice walk up to Chinatown and North Beach. HOTEL ZEPPELIN SAN FRANCISCO 545 Post St. San Francisco, CA 94102 tel 415 563 0303 viceroyhotelsandresorts.com
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GT tested
DREAM HOLLYWOOD Reviewed by Stephanie Makowski
Arrival/Check-In: The urban chic hotel dwells perfectly between Hollywood hip and corporate cool. Dream Hollywood welcomes you upon arrival with an open glass entryway showcasing a structured, organically lush lobby atmosphere filled with modern art and a lobby lounge bar that transforms for a morning cup of coffee or a post-work cocktail. Upon check-in with the extremely helpful and courteous staff, I made my way to the elevators and up to my room, enjoying the artwork as I awaited my elevator. I felt I had been transported to an ultra-cool setting — who knew who I’d run into here!
Services/Amenities: This property offers guests the opportunity to utilize one location for all their needs. Dream Hollywood and Tao Restaurants have something for every taste bud. If you are looking for nightlife and a club atmosphere, Avenue is the spot to go. It even has an exit that leads through to the pizza parlor on premises, Luchini Pizzeria & Bar. If you seek something a bit more refined yet trendy and elegant, the Beauty & Essex restaurant and the Tao Asian Bistro will surely please you. Want a view without leaving the property? Head to The Highlight Room, an amazing bar and lounge located poolside on the hotel roof. I ventured up there with my friend who lives in the area, and she enjoyed its customized cocktails and the superb views. After exhausting all those dining options, go for a quick jaunt in the hotel’s gym, custom-designed by trainer to the stars Gunnar Peterson, who curated each piece of equipment. For someone traveling, this facility is quite the treat. Overall, this property boasts an option to fit any lifestyle, placing everything right in your reach for a Hollywood trip to remember.
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TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ Guests who decide to venture off property within a few miles can reserve the house car for going to dinner, a meeting or other activities. ◆ Dream Hollywood offers meeting and event spaces for parties, conferences and corporate events. The multiple Tao restaurants can also be reserved for events. ◆ In a rush, but want to look your best? Stop by the newly opened Glam & Go blow-dry bar attached to the hotel for an easy way to tame that mane and get you Hollywood-ready. DREAM HOLLYWOOD 6417 Selma Ave. Hollywood, CA 90028 tel 323 844 6417 dreamhotels.com
PHOTOS: © DREAM HOLLYWOOD
Guest Quarters: Each floor of the property features a calming, dimmed lighting to encourage a peaceful walk to your room. The room itself instantly had me saying, “Wow!” Many rooms (including mine) offer a floor-toceiling window with a view of Hollywood beyond. I happened to enter my room during the “golden hour,” which offered a lovely pink and orange California sunset. The room held every modern convenience necessary to stay connected while on a business trip but also offered modern, sleek furnishings for a fun and fashionable stay. The bed was extremely comfortable with luxurious linens. The minibar provided any essentials one would need for a nightcap, and the spacious bathroom, stocked with Co. Bigelow bath products, offered the perfect tools to head out the door looking red-carpet ready. If guests need any additional items, such as an umbrella, slippers, robe or a bag to carry a few items, they can check out the closet — everything is easily accessible and ready to use.
one on one
LUIS GALLEGO Chief Executive Officer, Iberia What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Aligning with others will give you better results. Talk to people. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: We had to stop some of our routes a few years ago as we transitioned. I remember recently, when we added one of the routes back, we arrived there to people excited and waiting for the flight to return. One travel tip you cannot live without: If you don’t have a lot of time on the ground, enjoy the flight. Read, watch a good film, eat a good meal — dedicate that time to yourself. Best advice for business travelers: Fly and use good, trusted companies so you arrive relaxed. ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from Iberia’s new Business Plus and premiumeconomy cabins? Our Business Plus cabin has been noted as one of the best in the business, with a lie-flat seat with a nearly 7-foot bed. It’s a very good product. Our premium-economy cabin offers a bigger seat and TV screen, more space, a better meal and more on-the-ground advantages.
YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? People will take advantage of every opportunity offered in the industry; there’re a lot of interesting industry startups that could help improve efficiency. Best career advice you’ve received: Work with good people, and trust people. Take care of those people. Be the best.
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Tell our readers more about Iberia’s Airbus A350. Getting the new aircraft was a jump for us, allowing us the opportunity to offer new technology and, at the same time, better fuel consumption in an aircraft that is better for the environment. There’s less noise, better cabin air quality and less time in flight. Travelers arrive more relaxed. The Business Plus seats are bigger in width. So far, we’ve received two aircraft, with 40 more on the way. What can travelers anticipate from Iberia in 2019? We’ll continue to grow an average of around 6 percent every year until 2023, which isn’t easy, given high fuel prices. We’re investing in our aircraft, the product and WiFi. We’ve opened a new lounge in Madrid (MAD), and we’re continuing to strive toward our goal of being a best-in-class operation.
PHOTO: © IBERIA
Name: Luis Gallego Title: Chief executive officer Company, city: Iberia; Madrid, Spain Number of employees: 16,000 Recent project: In 2012 Iberia’s transformation began. At that point, the airline was losing $1 million per day. I joined in 2013 to help turn the company around; with more than 30 initiatives today, we strive to be the best in everything. First job: I studied to be an engineer, but I’ve been in the aviation industry since I started my career 25 years ago. Little-known fact about you: I don’t have a lot of secrets! I’m a big supporter of Real Madrid Football Club.
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Paris
Philadelphia Charleston
Venice
Romantic Getaways Visit these four cities for a little love this month. VALENTINE’S DAY IS A GREAT EXCUSE to sneak away for a quick romantic getaway. Whether you can make it to these cities this month or you want to prepare for a future visit, here are a few cities prime for romance. Paris got its moniker as the City of Love for good reason; it seems the entire city drips with romanticism. To ensure your trip is luxurious and unforgettable, book a room at the Paris Marriott Champs Elysees Hotel, situated on Avenue des Champs-Élysées and an excellent gateway to some of the city’s most iconic views and romantic activities. Across the Atlantic, Philadelphia is prime
for a spur-of-the-moment romantic getaway. The city has excellent restaurants, breathtaking views and a number of world-class hotels. For a front-row seat to all of Philadelphia’s romantic offerings, Philadelphia Marriott Downtown gives visitors and locals alike the chance to spend Valentine’s Day in luxury. Just down the road, Love Park serves as the perfect backdrop for a photo. Venice, Italy, offers an incredible aesthetic and luxury. The JW Marriott Venice Resort and Spa allows guests to experience as much of Venice as they wish. The hotel features complimentary shuttle service to Piazza San Marco,
where you can traverse the canals of Venice at your leisure on a romantic gondola ride. If the southern United States is more appealing, Charleston, South Carolina, is an excellent option for couples. Charleston is home to excellent food, gorgeous architecture, inspiring parks and waterfront views. The Courtyard by Marriott Charleston offers incredible views within walking distance of the water. The famous rainbow row offers a great backdrop for photos, while a spa, golf options and incredible food are just minutes away from the hotel. Is Valentine’s Day too soon for a trip? The Marriott Rewards® Premier Plus card will be hosting a VIP experience at this year’s Charleston Wine + Food festival in March. Romance is palpable in these cities. With the Marriott Rewards Premier Plus card, earn six points per $1 spent at over 6,700 participating Marriott Rewards® and SPG® hotels.
Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Marriott Rewards Premier Plus cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. Offer subject to change. See MarriottPremierPlus.com for offer and rewards details. The number of Marriott Rewards points needed for a standard reward free night starts at 7,500 points. Refer to MarriottRewards.com for all reward redemption values. (C) 2019 JP Morgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.
one on one
JANELLE ANDERSON Vice President, Global Marketing, American Airlines AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Scuba diving in Bora Bora, French Polynesia, was the most memorable. I remember the absolute delight of flying in over the water and seeing the spectacular colors. This was a once-in-a-lifetime trip for us. One travel tip you cannot live without: When you travel with your family, create an end-to-end experience. Don’t wait until you get there to plan, but start from your flight onward — especially if you can share the Flagship or premium experience with them. Best advice for business travelers: Invest in the experience. Using the Admirals Club or premium cabin will offer a seamless trip, and the experienced crew is first to help and offer solutions in any event.
YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Personalization will be an expanding expectation for travelers, bringing in more segmentation of products and differentiated choices. American began offering more choices, like Flagship First and choices to upgrade the economy experience with premium economy. Best career advice you’ve received: The first day of my corporate career, right out of college, the senior vice president said, “Come to work every day and try to hit it out of the park.” You will swing and miss, but you will also hit it out of the park more than others by trying. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? There is a lot to learn in the travel industry, as it’s always changing and moving. Don’t be afraid to challenge the status quo and dream big.
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Tell us about American’s menu enhancements across all cabins for the onboard cuisine. In December we launched a partnership with Zoës Kitchen to offer lighter and fresher menu options in the main cabin. In our premium cabin we always update our menus with guidance from well-known chefs to help with fine-dining meal planning and executing it at 35,000 feet. We continue our Bobby Stuckey wine program throughout 2019 both on board and in the lounges, especially with our multiple wins for Global Traveler’s Wines on the Wing survey. Bobby Stuckey will also launch an exclusive label for American Airlines, available in the Admirals Club. What can travelers expect from the whole flight experience in American’s premium cabins? It is a private, seamless experience from Flagship First Check-In, front-of-the-line security screening and entering into our Flagship Lounge and Flagship First Dining. Our in-air goal is to give you comfort, wellness and connectivity — we’re also bringing high-end Bang&Olufsen headsets on board for premium cabins. For connectivity, we have options from a large curated set of movies and music, live TV and high-speed WiFi. The future is exciting at American.
PHOTO: © JANELLE ANDERSON
Name: Janelle Anderson Title: Vice president, global marketing Company, city: American Airlines; Fort Worth, Texas Number of employees: 100 people on AA’s marketing team and 130,000 worldwide Recent project: Developing AA’s Flagship program as the only domestic airline with a truly first-class product First job: I was a swimmer in college, so my first job as a lifeguard in Cambridge, Minnesota, was an easy choice. Little-known fact about you: In college I minored in English and theology, which taught me how to think broadly and from different points of view.
ABOUT YOUR BRAND With AA’s recent schedule enhancements, what can travelers anticipate from the airline in the new year? With new routes in 2019, we will add some really interesting international destinations like Berlin, Bologna and Croatia. Domestically, we want to engage our hubs and surrounding cities like Flagstaff, Burbank, Kalispell and Santa Rosa to offer more services. We spent $3 billion over the last few years to enhance the customer experience, including high-speed satellite WiFi. By the end of 2019 our mainline domestic fleet will have satellite WiFi and live TV. Every seat will have an electrical outlet — that’s 86,000 seats! For our health and wellness campaign, we partnered with Calm to create a custom relaxation channel for travelers to use in flight, along with continuing to offer Casper sleep products to our premium cabins. We will continue our Flagship Lounge and Flagship First Dining expansion, with Dallas/Fort Worth’s lounge opening next, and continuing to update our Admirals Club lounges throughout the network to give our travelers a consistent experience.
technology
SMART START Pack these savvy tools to enhance any travel experience.
BY JACK GUY
PHOTOS: © GOTENNA, © ANKER INNOVATIONS, LTD, © VERIZON WIRELESS, © XENVO
GOTENNA MESH SMS AND GPS DEVICE Ideal for camping trips or traveling into the wilds, these SMS and GPS dongles let you text on phones and share locations without data or WiFi. The GoTenna system works over a range of three miles, a bit like a modern walkie-talkie system, and is compatible with Android and iOS devices. An accompanying app also lets you download maps that can be used offline, a boon in areas without a signal. $179. gotenna.com
ANKER NEBULA CAPSULE SMART PORTABLE PROJECTOR Whether you’re beaming a presentation onto the wall at an impromptu meeting or relaxing with a film at the end of a long day, a portable projector is a great purchase for a traveling executive. It’s lightweight and shaped like a Coke can for portability, plus it will run four hours on a full charge. The Nebula Capsule also has its own HDMI port and an Android operating system, meaning it can be controlled via remote control without connecting to a laptop. However, an accompanying mobile app makes everything even easier. $319.99. anker.com
PALM MINI SMARTPHONE The original Palm brand was a big deal in mobile technology before it went out of business. Now, a new company revives the name for this mini companion phone. With a tiny handset not much bigger than a credit card, the new Palm is designed to share your existing number but with fewer features than a primary smartphone. It helps people disconnect when they’re traveling with family and friends without worrying about missing a vital call, plus its waterproof feature makes it great for outdoor adventures. Available exclusively on Verizon in conjunction with a smartphone plan. $349. verizonwireless.com
XENVO PRO LENS KIT If you’re tight for space in your pack and can’t fit in a standalone camera with all of its accessories, this camera lens kit will give your smartphone a considerable boost in terms of image quality. It lets you get a great shot of that amazing sunset you’re watching and works just as well on close-ups of small objects. Not bad for a device small enough to fit in your pocket. For iPhone or Android. $35. xenvopro.com
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Rapid Expansion TAP Air Portugal’s reach spreads even further across the globe in 2019. TAP AIR PORTUGAL has its eyes firmly set on the future in 2019 with a full line-up of new routes coming to market this year. This follows record-breaking years for the Portuguese national carrier: In 2017, TAP boarded more than 14 million customers and it was named one of 2018’s 10 fastest-growing carriers. At 73 years old, TAP Air Portugal is better than ever. The new year sees expansion from North America, allowing U.S.-based travelers greater access to the enchanting destination of Portugal. On June 1, TAP inaugurates five round-trip flights per week between Chicago O’Hare International Airport and Lisbon, followed by the launch of flights from San Francisco on June 10 and Washington, D.C.’s Dulles International Airport on June 16.
The brand-new Airbus A330-900neo serves the San Francisco and Chicago routes, with the A330 Retrofitted aircraft servicing Washington D.C.; TAP is the launch carrier for the new aircraft, and has plans to receive 21 more in the next two years. Further solidifying its dedication to a bigger and brighter future, TAP has 71 aircraft poised for delivery, including A320neos, A321neos and A321 Long Range jets. Travelers from Chicago and San Francisco will enjoy the new Airspace by Airbus cabin onboard the A330neo, featuring economy, EconomyXtra and Executive business class. The premium cabin holds 25 new lie-flat seats, more than 6 feet long when fully reclined. Each seat boasts USB slots and individual electrical sockets, headphone connections, individual reading lights, enhanced space and additional storage. It’s truly a treat to travel to Portugal on TAP’s Executive cabin. The refreshed economy and EconomyXtra cabins also promise to delight passengers, featuring a configuration and design that offer a fresh atmosphere, more legroom, deeper seat recline and new seat covers. In economy, with its green and gray hues, pitch is 31 inches, while EconomyXtra brings a little something more with an additional three inches of legroom and a 34-inch pitch. April will see new international routes from TAP, from Lisbon toTel Aviv, Dublin, Basel, Naples, and Tenerife. With the addition of these,
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TAP’s global network grows to 57 destinations in Europe and 17 in Africa and the Middle East. “With more than 70 new planes on the way, this is only just the beginning,” said David Neeleman, founder, JetBlue Airways, and a major shareholder in TAP Air Portugal. “We have 10 gateways in Brazil with service to Portugal. We believe we can support the same number from the US. So, we have several more new destinations in North America in our planning. Our network beyond Lisbon is also growing. We now serve 55 destinations in Europe and 17 in Africa and fully 50 percent of our American passengers are flying us to places beyond Portugal.” Even if your itinerary may take you beyond Portugal, there’s no reason to miss some time in the European country, thanks to TAP Air Portugal’s Portugal Stopover program. The stopover allows travelers to enjoy up to five nights in Lisbon or Porto along the way for no extra airfare. Additionally, the Portugal Stopover includes a network of more than 150 partners bringing exclusive
offers to the program’s customers, ranging from hotel discounts and free bottles of Portuguese wine to experiences such as tuk tuk tours, museum visits, dolphin watching in the River Sado and food tastings. Stopover customers don’t need to travel beyond Portugal to be eligible; travelers to Algarve, the Azores or Madeira, for example, can still enjoy the added time in Lisbon or Porto. Stopover passengers can also customize a multi-destination journey, flying to one destination and returning from another, with a visit to Lisbon or Porto on either end. One-way travel Stopovers are now also available to Europe or Africa. “The Portugal Stopover has become so popular for our American customers,” said Carlos Paneiro, vice president of sales for North and Central America, TAP Air Portugal. “Everyone really appreciates the opportunity to visit and experience two destinations for the price of one.” TAP is among Europe’s most awarded airlines, and a member of Star Alliance since 2005. To learn more, visit flytap.com.
wine & spirits
WIND AND WEATHER In Mendoza’s beneficial climate, Trivento produces extraordinary wines. BY EUNICE FRIED
ish Span rs ize colon d the e plant ape gr first n i vines na t n i Arge 1. 5 in 15 EXCEPTIONAL:
Winemaker Germán Di Cesare (left), and Eolo 2015 Malbec PHOTOS: © TRIVENTO WINERY
TRIVENTO, IN SPANISH, MEANS “THREE WINDS,” a perfectly descriptive name for the Argentine winery where three beneficial winds blow across its vineyards in the Mendoza region. They are the polar wind of winter, the warming Zonda in the spring and the cooling Sudestada wind of summer. Each plays a vital part in producing the grapes that make the wines of Trivento. With them, winemaker Germán Di Cesare produces a variety of wines including Chardonnay, Torrontes, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah and, especially, Malbec. A red grape, Malbec came to Argentina and other parts of South America from France beginning in the mid-1800s. And Malbec adapted spectacularly well, particularly in the Mendoza region, in the western foothills of the Andes. Today, fed by a combination of its weather conditions, altitude and alluvial soils, Argentina produces some of the world’s most successful Malbec. It is a grape that, at its best, makes a deep-colored wine with a medium to full body, a good acidity level and satiny texture. At a recent luncheon with winemaker Germán di Cesare, we began our tasting with Trivento White Orchid Reserve 2018 ($11), a refreshing white blend of Torrontes and Pinot Grigio. And we continued with an array of Malbecs.
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The first, Trivento Reserve Malbec 2017, proves a tasty wine with an appealing aroma and, at $11, an excellent buy. Trivento Amado Sur Malbec Blend 2017 ($15), 70 percent Malbec, displayed deep color, medium body and hints of berries and plums. Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2016 ($21) is full-bodied, well-balanced and bold, with flavors reminiscent of coffee. “A classic Malbec,” Germán said. We finished with the winery’s top Malbec: Eolo 2015 ($79), an exceptional wine. Eolo, named after a god of wind, has a limited production since its grapes come solely from those grown in a single 10-acre vineyard. Smooth, full-bodied, assertive and seductive, its deep flavors include a bit of spice and toast and boast an especially long finish — a memorable ending to a good tasting. Germán likes to say, “The best measure of a wine’s worth is an empty bottle.” Our luncheon table, strewn with empty bottles, provided the evidence of Trivento’s value.
wealth
STAY THE COURSE
WHILE THE STOCK MARKET continues to contain a lot of uncertainty, it is still prudent to open and contribute to a retirement account. If you are concerned about investing in equities, you could deposit your contribution into a very low-risk — or no-risk — account like a money market account. Investing in your retirement account makes sense for several reasons. It reduces your current year’s taxable income by the amount contributed to your retirement account. The earnings on your investment grow tax-deferred; you do not pay income tax on the contributions or earnings until you withdraw money. And you get into the habit of putting money aside which will grow to a much larger number when you reach retirement (potentially you will be in a lower tax bracket when you withdraw the money when retired). Following is some background on a few of the different types of retirement accounts available. If you are an employee of a company, you probably won’t have
much choice in the type of retirement plan in which you can participate. If you work for a for-profit company, odds are it has created a 401(k) plan for employees. If it is a not-for-profit company, you can probably contribute to a 403 (b) plan. These plans are similar; they just have different names. The maximum a person can contribute to this type of plan in 2019 is $19,000; if you are 50 years old or older, you can make catch-up contributions of up to $6,000. It is always best to contribute as much to the retirement plan as the law or your employer allows. Also, if your employer makes a matching or annual contribution on your behalf, maximize the contribution you receive by contributing what you need to maximize your deduction. If you are an employee and you don’t have the ability to contribute to an employer-sponsored plan, you can contribute to an individual retirement account, or IRA. Unfortunately, this retirement vehicle only allows for a maximum annual contribution of $6,000; however, it allows an additional $1,000 catch-up contribution for those 50 years of age and older. Another type of retirement account is the SEP IRA, which stands for a Simplified Employee Pension, used primarily by the selfemployed or small-business owners. The maximum amount of the contribution for this type of account in 2019 is $56,000. However, this is further limited to 25 percent of the income your business reports. A few other types of retirement accounts are available, but most contributions flow into one of the accounts referenced above. Always speak with your professional tax advisor to make sure you do what is best for you.
The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice. Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.
FEBRUARY 2019
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PHOTO: © MELPOMENEM - DREAMSTIME.COM
Continue to contribute to your retirement plan, even in an uncertain market.
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tours
DESERT MARVELS Guided tours give extra insight into the region’s intriguing wonders. BY KRISTY ALPERT
I DISMOUNTED MY CAMEL and stood face-to-face with the massive limestone blocks of one of Giza’s great pyramids, unable to take my eyes off this wonder. I inhaled and felt a twinge of excitement as my guide, Amal El Far, handed me a ticket to enter the Great Pyramid of Khufu. Only a small number of people are allowed to go inside the pyramid each day, and lucky for me, the concierge at the Marriott Mena House hotel in Cairo recommended a guide who not only knew how to navigate the site but who also came armed with cold bottles of water, hand sanitizers and some amazing insider knowledge about Egypt’s history. The Middle East, Egypt and Turkey are home to some of the most amazing and historic sites in the world — the Great Pyramids of Giza, Petra in Jordan, the Burj Khalifa in the United Arab Emirates and Hagia Sophia in İstanbul — but it can often feel overwhelming for many tourists used to traveling in more Westernized cultures. Private tour guides like Amal El Far take the trepidation out of travel in this area, where they can advise on local customs, help with bartering in the souks and markets, and give insight into the destination’s historic and current significance. Tours in the Middle East range from a four-hour dining experience with a Bedouin family in the desert to a multiday custom itinerary inclusive of museum entrance fees and meals and extras. The top companies operating out of the Middle East include Alshamel Travel, which specializes in VIP travel for government officials, small groups and individual bookings; and Kanoo Travel, one of the largest tour operators in the Middle East. Bestway Tours & Safaris offers tours around the world, but the Middle East tours by this family-run operator are second-to-none. Three brothers, born in Africa and educated on three continents, where they learned the value of working alongside locals, started the company. Highly trained local guides run all of the tours and give travelers a firsthand look into life in their chosen destination.
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FIRSTHAND LOOK:
Tour of Al-Khazneh, the Treasury, in Petra, Jordan (above), and Pyramid of Giza tour by camel (left) PHOTOS: © JOSEF MILLS DREAMSTIME.COM, © MERYDOLLA - DREAMSTIME.COM
r tou r, a a k boo l El F o T ma m hA t t i r a ail.co w e h il gm ema lfar@ e the al am tact ena con or iott M k as rr nd me. Ma a na use Ho r by he for
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spas
IN GOOD HANDS Splurge on pleasure and relaxation at Valencia’s Hotel Balneario Las Arenas. BY KIMBERLY KROL
UNDERWATER:
Pool waterfall
PHOTO: © HOTEL BALNEARIO LAS ARENAS
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IT WAS MY BOYFRIEND SCOTT’S first time getting a massage, so he was a bit apprehensive, to say the least. Unsure of what to expect or how the whole process worked, it was normal for him to have some nervousness associated with our upcoming experience. It briefly brought me back to my first massage, now more than a decade ago, and I remember butterflies in my stomach about the entire process. Those quickly dissipated as the soothing massage strokes began, and I felt the same would prove true for Scott. We were in Valencia, Spain, on a long weekend jaunt, and any quick search or word-of-mouth recommendation on the city’s best spas yields Hotel Balneario Las Arenas high among the rankings. After two days in the city center, we were heading to the seaside hotel, so it seemed an obvious choice to spend some time unwinding in its noted spa. Given the glowing reviews I’d found on the facility, I knew
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Scott would be in good hands for his first massage. As a member of Leading Hotels of the World, Hotel Balneario Las Arenas sits somewhat regally steps from the Mediterranean. Its white exterior boasts columns, balconies and intricate design details, with its several buildings positioned around a courtyard and pool. Las Arenas, one of Valencia’s most popular beaches, sits directly in front of the hotel, and the property’s prime location also places it adjacent to Malvarrosa Beach and its promenade. Despite the early November temperatures, we still made our way to the water and walked along the sandy shores. The hotel boasts a number of other amenities in addition to its spa and 5-star accommodations. A state-of-the-art fitness center complements the wellness offerings, as do outdoor tennis courts. The Mediterranean serves as the perfect inspiration to get that heart rate
up. There are three swimming pools, an Octopus Miniclub for children and a full schedule of other amenities and events. We enjoyed a pre-spa lunch at Le Sorolla Brasserie and were impressed by the breakfast buffet on each morning of our two-night stay. The property boasts a variety of meeting and event spaces, and it comes as no surprise the hotel’s enviable location makes it an ideal venue for weddings. The spa sits in a separate building from the main hotel space; after we checked in, we went to our respective locker rooms to change. Due to our late-afternoon appointment, it felt a bit like we had the space all to ourselves. I departed the locker room to find Scott lightly tapping his foot in anticipation, and we waited in a quiet lounge space on Z-shaped recliners for our therapists. We were escorted to the treatment room for our couple’s massage, where I don’t think Scott heard a word of instruction from our therapist as he looked around the room. I helped him get situated, then lay face-down on my own table as we waited for the experience to begin. We booked one-hour relaxing massages; however, the spa offers a wide range of treatments and includes a hair salon. I like that the facility boasts both monthly promotions and seasonal recommendations. I found the seasonal offerings unique and a nice touch for a further taste of the season and Spain for travelers. Per usual during a soothing, relaxing massage, I drifted into a state of semi-consciousness, rousing only momentarily when it was time to turn over and I heard Scott’s masseur, Enrique, ask him how he was doing. In turn, Scott replied, “I’m great; very relaxing.” I may have managed a smug, “I told you so” smirk to myself at that moment. Although the relaxing massage soon ended, our experience wasn’t over yet. We next took to the spa’s hydrotherapy wellness circuit, which includes a Scottish shower, sauna, cold pool, steam bath, ice fountain, aromatherapy shower, bubble beds, active pool and an indoor and outdoor Jacuzzi. Here we did encounter a few other spa-goers,
but until that point our experience had been exclusive and private. We bounced from spot to spot on the circuit, Scott braver than me in plunging into the cold pool and standing under the freezing shower. In the pool were several other water features such as superstrong jets to massage any remaining kinks from our backs. The hydrotherapy wellness circuit proved the perfect way to end our spa experience. After the flight home, I looked at Scott to see him stretching his neck. With a grin, he noted, “I could really use another massage from Enrique.”
COOL DIP:
Cold-water pool PHOTO: © HOTEL BALNEARIO LAS ARENAS
Hotel Balneario Las Arenas Carrer d’Eugènia Viñes, 22, 24 46011 Valencia, Spain tel 34 963 120 600 hotelvalencialas arenas.com/en
FEBRUARY 2019
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chefs
CULINARY ALLIANCE Chef Alain Roux pairs fresh Scottish produce and classic French cooking at The Balmoral Edinburgh. BY KIMBERLY KROL FAMILY FARE:
Michel and Alain Roux PHOTO: © THE BALMORAL EDINBURGH
grew up on her humble yet delicious recipes. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? It is difficult to choose since I have worked under eight head chefs, mainly in France at some Michelin-starred restaurants. If I have to choose one, it would be Denis Ruffel, chef owner of Pâtisserie Millet in Paris, under whom I served an apprenticeship during the 1980s. Chef Ruffel was an inspiring, generous teacher who guided me through a varied, focused pastry apprenticeship, but he taught me so much more. I accompanied him to the food markets, worked with him on his cookbooks, participated in demonstrations and collaborated on new recipes. We also catered for special events for private customers, so it was an excellent, multifaceted learning ground.
IT’S A FOOD PAIRING you likely won’t experience anywhere else. At Brasserie Prince by Alain Roux at The Balmoral Edinburgh, Executive Chef Alain Roux, in collaboration with his father, Michel Roux, O.B.E., matches the best in Scottish produce with classic French cooking. The seasonally inspired classics include freshly caught seafood, a raw bar, lively light bites and sharing plates. The collaboration marks a pairing of two families famed in the hospitality industry: Roux and his father with Rocco Forte Hotels. The Balmoral, a landmark in the city, has served as Edinburgh’s most prestigious address for more than a century. It boasts other eateries, including the Michelin-starred Number One restaurant and an award-winning spa. WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I seek inspiration wherever I go. When I arrive in a destination, I love to explore the local ingredients, so a visit to the local market is a must. It’s always been about the beauty of things as well as the taste, for me. California is a chef’s paradise, stretching from farmers’ markets to Chinatown in San Francisco. There is such a rich variety of ingredients. Asia is also a mecca for chefs, and I love to explore the crazy, busy streets and fall in love with a recipe to bring home. I’m obsessed with the simplicity of the flavors and ingredients.
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WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? I have two equal favorites on opposite sides of the globe: New York and Tokyo. New York is mind-blowing for its sheer diversity. Even fast food and tea shops offer outstanding service and top-quality ingredients; I don’t know how they do it. I love Asian flavors, and I find the best representation in Tokyo, where I love to explore and always discover a new style of dish, restaurant or combination of ingredients. The food is less processed and meals are balanced.
But when it comes to ingredients, Scotland is hard to beat; it is the heart of Great Britain for food. The cold, clean waters of its lochs and seas mean Scotland’s fish and seafood is some of the best in the world. I love the Highland beef, game, wildfowl, venison and the quality, freshness and flavor of the fruits and vegetables.
WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? I sense restaurants serving food sourced from their own kitchen gardens or at least locally will become more popular. The consumer is losing trust in corporate mass production and the damage it is wreaking on our health and environment. It’s about self-respect and wanting to eat food on our doorstep. As a chef, I feel passionate about this and place great importance on building relationships with local suppliers when sourcing grains, meat, fish, organic vegetables, fruit and even dairy products.
WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Either my dad, Michel, or Uncle Albert … depends who’s listening! I must also credit my mother, Françoise, a naturally gifted cook, and perhaps the family’s most important culinary influence, my maternal grandmother, Germaine. We all
THE BALMORAL EDINBURGH 1 Princes St. Edinburgh EH2 2EQ United Kingdom tel 44 131 556 2414 roccofortehotels.com
cruising
UP NORTH Sail Alaska’s Inside Passage, where glaciers flow down to the sea. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER
DESPITE A SHORT SAILING SEASON (May through September), Alaska attracts a million cruise passengers annually, ranking it among the five most popular cruise destinations in the world. Most lines plying Alaskan waters sell out far in advance, and that’s true for the two largest operators in the 49th state, Holland America Line and Princess Cruises. Headquartered in Seattle and Santa Clarita, California, respectively, these two lines handle a quarter-million Alaska visitors yearly, employing mid-sized, fullservice ships that hit the highlights of Southeast Alaska’s virtually roadless 1,000-mile-long Inside Passage. This seashore gallery is rife with monumental glaciers and fjords, towering snowy peaks and abundant wildlife; and its rustic ports retain elements of their Native American and pioneer heritages. Departing primarily from Seattle and Vancouver, British Columbia, Princess and Holland America assign about half their fleets to Alaska each summer. But what really sets these two lines apart is their land tours, which seamlessly extend a standard seven-day cruise into an overland exploration of interior attractions including Denali, America’s tallest peak. Princess owns five lodges, 10 deluxe train cars and 359 motor coaches in Alaska. Holland America, Alaska’s largest private employer, boasts similar land operations that roam as far as the fabled Yukon. Holland America is the more traditional and premium of these two operators, while Princess carries the most passengers of any cruise line in Alaskan waters. Alaskan cruising attracts some of the world’s largest ships, including Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Bliss (4,004 passengers) and Royal Caribbean International’s Ovation of the Seas (4,180 passengers). Disney Cruises also ventures up north, with onboard parka-clad cartoon characters a big hit with kids. Passengers seeking higher-end, all-inclusive, smaller and far pricier luxury cruises have some stylish options
in Alaska as well. Windstar Cruises’ 212-passenger Star Legend will run a score of 12-day upscale adventure cruises between Seward and Vancouver in 2019. Silversea Cruises’ 16 Alaskan sailings cover the same waters starting May 27. Crystal Cruises’ 848-passenger Crystal Symphony sails the Inside Passage from Vancouver with National Geographic experts on its expedition team, and Seabourn Cruise Line’s 462-passenger Seabourn Sojourn serves up eight Alaskan cruises, each with a Caviar on the Ice deck party. For adventure cruising on even smaller boutique ships, UnCruise Adventures fits the bill. Its yachts (22–90 passengers) make 142 departures on 11 itineraries from Seattle and points in Alaska, providing guided hikes and kayak trips in spectacular Glacier Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site. In 2019 UnCruise’s first departure is early — April 6 — and its last is late: Sept. 28, constituting the longest season in the industry. Whatever the size or style, Alaskan cruises — with calving glaciers and breaching whales — are well north of ordinary and well worth sailing.
ALASKAN ADVENTURE: Norwegian Bliss in Alaska
PHOTO: © NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES
he s in t e i p p u n The P rogram o p a z s se Piaz Crui cess n i r n P ska s Ala es on bring puppi t g o d sled terac to in d r a o ers — b sseng a p h wit a tedly repor success. ng howli
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Cruising’s Next Wave With the introduction of the MedallionClass™, Princess Cruises® further elevates the cruise experience. THE DESTINATION LEADER in vacations just made the travel experience easier, more personalized and exclusive. Princess Cruises®, traveling to 380 destinations and seven continents, unveiled the MedallionClass™ experience on board Caribbean Princess and Regal Princess, bringing leading-
edge technology ship-wide to deliver customized service through enhanced guest-crew interactions, the elimination of cruise/vacation friction points and interactive entertainment. This is cruising at a whole new level. Guests receive a complimentary OceanMedallion™, a wearable device about the size of a quarter that communicates with thousands of sensors and servers on board to provide an unprecedented personalized guest experience. This industry game-changer recently won a CES 2019 Innovation Award and features leading-edge technology for a seamless guest experience. The MedallionClass experience begins soon after guests book their cruise. By downloading the OceanReady™ App, guests can log into the OceanReady portal to load travel documents, submit their security photo, provide information on where to ship their OceanMedallions, and more. Once at the cruise ship terminal, guests
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Watch Movies Under the Stars and have drinks delivered with OceanNow.
bypass the traditional check-in process and visit dedicated MedallionClass podiums nearby where crew await them holding tablets. Before a guest can even say hello, staff immediately recognize them by name, thanks to each guest’s OceanMedallion. By becoming OceanReady, their embarkation is hassle free, getting them from curbside to poolside on board in a breeze. Onboard, MedallionNet™ offers the best WiFi at sea — fast, reliable and affordable at just $9.99 per day, per device. Picture a guest onboard a cruise — maybe with family watching Movies Under the Stars, or perhaps with their main squeeze on their stateroom balcony, wanting to toast the sunset. The OceanMedallion steps in to make a perfect moment that much better. By using the OceanNow™ App, that traveler can order a beverage, from soft drinks to wine, cocktails and more from anywhere on the ship and have it personally delivered to their location — they won’t miss one second of their dream vacation! Navigating the cruise ship is now easier than ever as well. New portals throughout the ship make finding one’s way to restaurants, other activities or staterooms as simple as the touch of a — in this case — screen. As a guest approaches select portals throughout the ship, the OceanMedallion recognizes them and their location, and offers guid-
ance from where they are to where they want to go. Guests can also use the portals to locate members of their party, especially useful for traveling families or those within a much larger group. And that’s only the start. The Princess MedallionClass experience includes a host of other innovative features. Access to staterooms is easy and secure with the OceanMedallion acting as your key, with a personalized greeting displayed on the door portal. MedallionPay is an easy-to-use payment option, taking the payment back and forth out of the exchange and allowing crewmembers to deliver more meaningful interactions. To keep you entertained, there’s the Ocean® Casino, PlayOcean® and OceanView®. With OceanCasino, cruise passengers can wager real money on casino games, including slots, poker, bingo, roulette and more, anywhere on the ship from smart devices and through select portals. On PlayOcean portals throughout the ship, guests can play games, like trivia, a word jumble and Ocean Treks Adventure, an interactive, ship-wide digital scavenger hunt. And smart devices can transform into game controllers, allowing for interactive gaming on the massive Movie Under the Stars screen on the top deck. Guests can also stream more than 100 hours of award-winning Ocean™ Original travel programs to
smart devices anywhere on the ship at no cost with OceanView. The programming is content that airs nationally on weekends on ABC and NBC. Already activated on Caribbean Princess ® and Regal Princess ®, additional ships in the Princess fleet will be outfitted with this industry-changing technology throughout 2019. Cruisers will be able to enjoy a MedallionClass Vacation throughout the Caribbean, as well as voyages in Canada & New England, Scandinavia & Russia and the British Isles. The bar has been raised; prepare for an entirely new way to cruise with Princess Cruises. Learn more about the MedallionClass experience at princess.com/ medallionclass. Book now! Book online at princess.com; call at 800 774 6237; or contact your travel advisor.
Princess.com | 1-800-Princess Travel Advisor
feature
Well-Wishes Leaders from around the travel industry extend congratulations
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Globility
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as Global Traveler celebrates its 15th anniversary.
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BOSTON’S NEW NEIGHBORHOODS ACCELERATE A BOOMING ECONOMY p. 58 BASQUE COUNTRY p. 72 BEIRUT p. 62 CAYMAN ISLANDS p. 66 DUBLIN p. 64 HAVANA p. 52 JAPAN p. 70 MIAMI p. 60
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WALK ON THE WILD SIDE
November 2018
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TO
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THE CRUISING ISSUE
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Set sail on a rising tide of new cruise vessels and voyages. p. 44
CoRPoRATE GETAWAYS CoME bACk
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BUENOS AIRES p.64 HONOLULU p. 62 HYDERABAD p. 56 JURASSIC COAST p. 70 LAGOS p. 67 MÁLAGA p.66 PHUKET p. 76
BUsiNEss MEETs ROMANcE
CARIBBEAN CRUISING p.66 COCHIN p. 64 COZUMEL p. 72 FORT LAUDERDALE p. 58 LISBON p. 52 NEW ORLEANS p. 60 TRANS-ATLANTIC CROSSING p. 70 VENICE p. 62
August 2016
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Mexico city
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TRAVEL In oUR AnnIVERSARY MonTH
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SUPERLATIVES AboUnd In HIGH-TECH BANGALORE
consTrucTinG The ciTy of The fuTure
ExPLoRE TiANjiN’s HEIGHTS BUENOs AiREs RAnkS NO. 1 FoR MEETInGS In THE AMERICAS
SeychelleS
CAIRO
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AN EPIC EXPERIENCE AWAITS AMONG THE ANTIQUITIES p. 60
BUSINESS BOOMS IN BOGOTÁ p. 52 EMBRACE CHESTER'S HISTORY ON A ROMANTIC RAMBLE p. 66
WINES ON THE WING:
DOURO DELIVERS MORE THAN IMAGINED p. 74
12 th ANNUAL WINE SURVEY RESULTS REVEALED p. 38
Montreal
GeT To KnoW The canaDian ciTy’s colorful niGhTlife
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December 2018
ANTARCTICA p. 102 ANTALYA p. 104 ATHENS p. 96 CHICAGO p. 90 HAIKOU p. 92 HELSINKI p. 94 MEXICO CITY p. 82 PARK CITY p. 88
CELEBRATING
XV!
Announcing the winners of
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August 2018
the 15th annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards. p. 40
ALENTEJO p. 66 FLORENCE p. 52 FRANCE p. 72 NAPA VALLEY AND SONOMA p. 60 MENDOZA p. 64 SANTIAGO p. 68 STELLENBOSCH p. 76 WELLINGTON p. 62
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THE WINE ISSUE GT presents the winners of the 15th annual Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. p. 36
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June 2018
AUCKLAND ROARS WITH OPPORTUNITY
COPENHAGEN p. 64 COSTA RICA p. 74 MONACO p. 66 NEW ZEALAND p. 70 OKINAWA p. 62 PRETORIA p. 65 SEATTLE p. 58 STOCKHOLM p. 52
FIND YOUR PACE IN EXOTIC, CHAOTIC KOLKATA
TUrKey
TAKe A BreAK FROM BUSINESS AMONG TURKEY’S RUINS
THE WELLNESS ISSUE
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Embark on a quest for wellness at the world’s finest spas. p. 40
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ENTERTAIN CLIENTS AGAINST CAPE TOWN'S SPECTACULAR BACKDROP p. 60
July 2018
June 2016
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CABO SAN LUCAS p. 76 DUBAI p. 52 DUBLIN p. 62 KENYA p. 72 MANILA p. 64 MOSCOW p. 65 PYEONGCHANG p. 68
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OF THE PINK CITY
p. 52
EXPERIENCE THE PULSATING PACE OF BARCELONA p. 62 OFT-OVERLOOKED ATHENS PROVES A MATCH FOR FAMILIES p. 66
CONFLUENCE OF CULTURES
PLUS TRAVEL TODAY:
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San Antonio looks to its heritage to forge its future. p. 60
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September 2015
FEEL THE TECHNICOLOR BUZZ
January 2018
KICK BACK AND ENJOY BERMuDA'S PINK-SAND BEACHES AND BALMY BREEZES p. 72 WHO WINS, WHO LOSES AS LOYALTY PLANS ADOPT A PAY-TO-PLAY STRATEGY? p. 34
SEOuL Paris A KALEIDOSCOPE OF
FAMILY-FRIENDLY FUN p. 64
PARTY ‘TIL THE SUN COMES UP IN BERLIN p. 60
the City of light Brightens Business Family
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THRILLS ABOUND ALL AROUND CHRISTCHURCH GALWAY PUTS THE MUSIC IN THE NIGHT
A SENSE OF ADVENTURE
PAST MEETS PRESENT IN SOFIA
RIYADH
Fulfill your dreams of exploring the world with one-of-a-kind expeditions. p. 46
ALASKA p. 72 ANKARA p. 68 ANNAPOLIS p. 60 BUCHAREST p. 66 CAPE TOWN p. 62 GUATEMALA CITY p. 54 KRABI p. 74 PARIS p. 64
INSIDE ONE OF THE WORLD’S
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FOR WORLD-CLASS LIVABILITY, VIENNA REIGNS SUPREME p. 52
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June 2016
ENTERTAIN CLIENTS AGAINST CAPE TOWN'S SPECTACULAR BACKDROP p. 60
JAIPUR
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BELIZE p. 74 BUDAPEST p. 68 DALLAS p. 60 KUALA LUMPUR p. 54 MIAMI p. 66 NEW YORK CITY p. 64 TAIWAN p. 72 VIENNA p. 62
p. 52
OFT-OVERLOOKED ATHENS PROVES A MATCH FOR FAMILIES p. 66
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JAIPUR FEEL THE TECHNICOLOR BUZZ OF THE PINK CITY
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April 2018
South africa
Discover the magic of nature on safari
BUSINESS BOOMS IN BOGOTÁ p. 52 globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99
EMBRACE CHESTER'S HISTORY ON A ROMANTIC RAMBLE p. 66
August 2017
DOURO DELIVERS MORE THAN IMAGINED p. 74
GooD times: 's annuaL gBta Party recaP p. 40 Brush up on Business etiquette in JeDDah p. 60
Montre
AZORES p. 74 CURITIBA p. 66 GALÁPAGOS p. 72 ICELAND p. 68 OSLO p. 64 LJUBLJANA p. 62 SAN FRANCISCO p. 60 SINGAPORE p. 54
WINES ON THE WING:
12 th ANNUAL WINE SURVEY RESULTS REVEALED p. 38
p. 70
50 Years of transformation reDefine Life in aBu DhaBi p. 50
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AN EPIC EXPERIENCE AWAITS AMONG THE ANTIQUITIES p. 60
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BROOKLYN p. 58 FINGER LAKES p. 66 GUJARAT p. 64 INCHEON p. 60 JINJIANG p. 52 POMPEII p. 70 SALZBURG p. 62 TAHITI p. 72
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200 and Counting
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’S GLAM GALA CELEBRATES THE 11 th ANNUAL GT TESTED AWARDS
The GT team marks another milestone issue with reflections on travel. p. 38
CheeRs!
THE GREEN ISSUE
To The winners of The 12Th annual GT TesTed ReadeR suRvey awaRds p. 44
AZORES p. 74 CURITIBA p. 66 GALÁPAGOS p. 72 ICELAND p. 68 OSLO p. 64 LJUBLJANA p. 62 SAN FRANCISCO p. 60 SINGAPORE p. 54
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Make memories at the best family travel destinations around the globe. p. 48
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ROARS To LIfE
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EXPERIENCE THE PULSATING PACE OF BARCELONA p. 62
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OF THE PINK CITY
EXPERIENCE THE PULSATING PACE OF BARCELONA p. 62
’S GLAM GALA CELEBRATES THE 11 th ANNUAL GT TESTED AWARDS
MEXICO CITY
p. 42
FIJI PLEASES ANY PARADISE SEEKER p. 74
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LEISURE LIFESTYLE AWARDS: RECAP THE BIG NIGHT
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Greek National Tourism Organization North America congratulates Global Traveler on the occasion of its 15th anniversary. May your magazine continue to inform and connect with luxury and frequent business travelers. GRETA KAMATEROU, director, North America, Greek National Tourism Organization Congratulations to Global Traveler on its 15th anniversary. JP Morgan Chase applauds your dedication to travelers, and we thank the readers for their preference for the Marriott Rewards Premier Plus card. Here’s to many more years to come. VIBHAT NAIR, general manager, JP Morgan Chase Air India extends its congratulations to Global Traveler on its 15th anniversary and best wishes for the next 15! JOHN MASSEY, manager, marketing programs and industry affairs, Air India Congratulations on providing great information to support the frequent traveler community, especially the United Chase cardmembers. Happy 15th anniversary. KRISTEN BOWDOIN, managing director, JP Morgan Chase & Co.
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January 2012
Congratulations to GT on its 15th anniversary; what a milestone! It’s an honor to be recognized by the magazine for the award we won in the 15th annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards, honoring our continuous commitment to treat our increasing number of guests across the Atlantic with the best Belgium has to offer, which goes well beyond our delicious chocolates. I would like to thank Global Traveler readers for placing Brussels Airlines among the best travel options in the important North Atlantic sector. CHRISTOPHE ALLARD, general manager business development, The Americas, Brussels Airlines
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It is an honor United’s MileagePlus loyalty program is consistently recognized by Global Traveler as the Best Frequent-Flyer Program. It represents our continued commitment to
our MileagePlus members and credit card holders. Congratulations, Global Traveler, on 15 exceptional years! LUC BONDAR, vice president of loyalty, president of MileagePlus, United Airlines It’s hard to believe 15 years have gone by so fast, but quality transcends time. Great to see how Global Traveler has grown and reinvented itself. Best wishes, Fran and gang, for at least another 15 years! JOEL CHUSID, executive director, USA, Hainan Airlines Congratulations on your 15th anniversary! Whenever we reflect on our own journey here at Asiana Airlines, one thing’s clear: Global Traveler has been a constant source of inspiration for us, helping us to think about what it truly means to be a global airline. Looking ahead, we know GT will continue to play that vital role as the travel magazine that encourages the entire international airline industry to be the best we can be. ASIANA AIRLINES TEAM On behalf of the entire organization at All Nippon Airways, we extend our sincerest congratulations to your company for completing 15 glorious years of success. With your commitment to provide appealing content to your readers, you remain a bridge that allows companies such as ours to reveal relevant information to U.S.-based international travelers. We hope to continue our wonderful relationship for years to come. Thank you! KEIJI OMAE, vice president, marketing and sales, the Americas, All Nippon Airways Co., Ltd. Briggs & Riley has appreciated the connection Global Traveler has provided over the last 15 years. Our quality collection is showcased to a valued audience of leisure and business travelers, many of whom are loyal Briggs & Riley customers. We congratulate Global Traveler on this achievement and wish many more years of success! RICHARD KRULIK, CEO, Briggs & Riley IHG congratulates Fran and the entire Global Traveler team on 15 years of connecting and informing world travelers. At IHG, we share a
passion for the very best travel has to offer. Here’s to many more years of sharing the joys of world travel experiences with your readers! DEREK DECROSS, senior vice president, global sales, IHG LATAM Airlines would like to congratulate Global Traveler on an amazing 15 years! Two industry leaders have built a relationship since the early beginnings of the Global Traveler and new LATAM Airlines brands. We look forward to many more successful years and a continued, valued partnership with our friends at Global Traveler! PABLO CHIOZZA, vice president, USA, Canada, Caribbean, LATAM Airlines Group All of us at Avianca have enjoyed the content over the years of this wonderful publication. We would like to send our best wishes and congratulate the staff of Global Traveler on its 15th anniversary! MARIO JIMENEZ, corporate sales manager, Avianca South African Airways would like to take this opportunity to congratulate Global Traveler on 15 years of success. Over the years we have watched this publication continue to grow and develop. We look forward to reading more issues and continuing to participate in the GT Tested Reader Survey awards, in which we have won 15 years straight! Cheers to 15 more years of GT! DAMION ROSE, manager, marketing promotions, South African Airways 2019 is a great year for landmark anniversaries — oneworld turned 20 on Feb. 1; one of our founding member airlines, British Airways, celebrates its centenary; and Global Traveler is 15 years old! Congratulations! As oneworld enters our third decade, we are rolling out a series of initiatives to make traveling with us even brighter. We’ve been honored to be Global Traveler’s GT Tested Reader Survey Best Airline Alliance for the past nine years. We hope all the great changes we are making now will enable us to retain the title for a 10th year running in this, your 15th anniversary year and oneworld’s 20th! ROB GURNEY, CEO, oneworld
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Get Out the Vote As we embark further into the new year, voting is underway for the annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards. BY KIMBERLY KROL LAST MONTH WE KICKED OFF VOTING for our annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards while wrapping up voting for our Leisure Lifestyle Awards. We asked our trusted Globility Board to share their thoughts on voting with us to encourage others to vote, either online or via the ballot printed on one of the following pages. The Globility Board is a vetted group of well-traveled subscribers serving as a sounding board for the magazine, offering insights into their travel habits and much more. In January they shared their thoughts on hotels, resorts and cruise lines; why they vote; and what the surveys mean to them. This month we went back to those same intrepid travelers to learn what makes them vote for their favorite airlines and destinations. As we are also celebrating our milestone 15th anniversary this month, we asked them to share what 15 years means to them as readers, what they enjoyed or disliked during their time as a subscriber and what they hope to see in the future. Read on as a few members share their thoughts.
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For airlines, I vote based on what I like getting out of the total flight experience from curbside to curbside. I think there’s room for a variety of viewpoints on best airline, depending on what a person wants. Probably the biggest differential is how a person wants the soft product service executed. I, for one, prefer not to be hovered over, whether it’s in a restaurant or lounge or airplane. I like the flight attendants to notice things but not to ask the obvious. An anecdote: Last month in the Delta Sky Club Salt Lake City, there were some staff circulating who kept asking if I needed anything, which felt a bit annoying after the first time. In a lounge environment, where it’s basically self-serve, staff should be able to recognize a person looking around for something or trying to get staff attention and otherwise leave them alone. Going out of their way to help in specific cases is another service mark I rate highly. Last month, flying to Shanghai on China Eastern, I walked up to the business-class galley and asked for help with mi DiDi (a China ridesharing app), which somehow I’d set in Chinese, and there were no obvious options to change it back to English. The first attendant couldn’t figure it out, and before long, it had elevated to peers who were finally able to fix it. Little things like that stick with me (and the free WiFi that actually works that China Eastern has in business on transPacific flights). As for destinations, that voting is a function of past experiences and the theme of any given trip. A beach and water holiday in Tahiti is
hard to compare to a culture holiday in London or history in Israel or panda-ing in Chengdu. So it’s really what you want out of a given holiday and how that destination fulfilled that specific theme and how you feel afterward. This year, I made first-ever trips to Israel and mainland China and enjoyed both for different reasons. Finally, I love the magazine! I think you are spot-on with the slightly nonstandard physical size and selection in paper stock. The article font is perfect, and the breadth of topics is good. I enjoy the news section and the focused topics like technology. I also think GT is doing a great job with just enough of the “handwritten” comments in the margins; when they do show up, they’re useful and not just a gimmick used over and over. Fifteen years is a long run for print in the current magazine/periodical world … I’m glad GT has survived as a hard product without going online only, and [I’m] confident it will continue to thrive! — MIKE RUSSO The 15th anniversary is crystal or, for modern times, a watch or timepiece. That seems to fit perfectly with GT as time flies. I remember early on reading it in the United Clubs. Then you had the special offer of bonus points (always look for those), and I became a full-fledged subscriber, delightfully so. While I appreciate the online versions, I still treasure the paper version. It is my required on-board reading during
my flight adventures. I love all of the areas and enjoy when there is a theme. I like the correspondence from others on their experiences. I really appreciate the hotel/airline reviews and the blurbs on what’s new, who has a deal, how I can maximize my points or benefits. I appreciate the destination articles get right to the point, don’t ramble and keep my interest. I’m glad to see you’re branching out with those and also writing about the unexpected and not-always-obvious. The Chernobyl one is still fresh in my mind. In short: GT really is a part of my life, and here’s to another 15 years. — SUE CASTORINO I remember the first time I came across a copy of Global Traveler more than a decade ago in an airline lounge. I started reading it and couldn’t put it down! As an airline enthusiast who loves to travel the world, every article was so interesting to me, and there was no other magazine like it. I ended up swiping the only copy in the lounge so I could finish reading every article on the plane. I’ve been a loyal subscriber ever since and am excited each time it comes in the mail. I still take a copy from the airline lounge from time to time to give to friends, but only when there are many copies available so others can enjoy my favorite magazine! Each year I vote for the airlines in which I am genuinely excited to
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fly — not just to reach the destination but to enjoy the flight experience itself. My friends and family often think it’s strange I spend so few days at each destination, but to me, the travel is often the most enjoyable part. I get excited when trying an airline’s new product, such as the new suites offered by Singapore Airlines and Delta Air Lines or the new Polaris cabin by United. But the single most important factor for my voting is the in-flight service, and often it’s the Asian airlines that truly excel in this category. — ERIC CHIANG Congratulations to GT! Fifteen years is quite an achievement in a highly competitive landscape. I recall that in some Latin countries 15 years marks the passage to adulthood (la quinceañera). To me as a subscriber, it is an adult publication yet has the dynamism that goes with its youth. It is always great to see the team get personally involved and continuously network with both the travel industry and your readership. The publication is always my first choice and a pleasure to read. Going forward, I would like to see GT share additional aspects of your and your readers’ combined experience on travel matters, i.e., not only the good but also sometimes the bad and the ugly, mistakes or places to avoid, why not … — JEAN-CHRISTOPHE MURAT
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Voting in the GT Tested Reader Survey gives me a chance to do two things. First, I get the chance to share an exciting travel experience with others or to show my loyalty to a particular hotel, airline or cruise line that consistently delivers the best service. Most of us just rely on Instagram or Twitter to comment on how nice our room is, how beautiful our favorite island is or how amazing a certain city is, but you can tell the entire world through the GT Tested Reader Survey. It’s immortalized in print, not just the digital ether. With airlines, admittedly, it is getting trickier. Unless you’re flying to Singapore regularly, you have to accept even first class is not what it used to be. Still, public recognition for airlines is important; and if one has a loyalty program worth something, actually takes responsibility for a cancellation or handles a lost bag well, be sure to vote for it. Airlines that do put effort into customer service need to get recognition because, let’s face it, bad publicity doesn’t seem to have any effect on airline service. The best thing about Global Traveler articles is the level of detail. With some travel magazines I flip through the pretty pictures, but with GT, I read, note and dog-ear every issue. The GT Tested reviews have practical reviews and points for places I regularly go, including at hotels where I can find a good price on a room. The featured stories inform me and give new insights even to places I have been to many times. For instance, İstanbul is a city I’ve been to several times and to which I will return. The destination story on Turkey in February 2016
pointed out things I still need to see and proved useful when I returned just this past summer. GT stories often end up torn out of the magazine, highlighted and put in a file. They’re worth keeping! — BENJAMIN DELEE
The familiarity with a website, mileage program, properties and airplanes are the reasons we vote for certain airlines. In the event things do not go well, I think my loyalty helps me get a better resolution to the problem. I see how proud the companies are when they receive awards at the ceremonies GT holds. Industry executives fly in from around the world to accept the awards, which I think is impressive. The awards are used in their company advertisements, and I think it helps their business. Angela and I first picked up the magazine in an airline lounge and decided to subscribe. I remember maybe 10 years ago we got an invitation to an awards event at the Biltmore Hotel in Los Angeles. We were frankly surprised, and I remember asking one of the GT executives why we were invited, and they said they invite local subscribers to their events. We thought that was special, and it gave us a chance to talk to industry executives, which I felt was cool. I remember talking to the brand manager of the Boeing 747, a special conversation for me. My wife loves to fly British Airways, and she was able to talk with executives from BA, which she thought was great. Global Traveler always offers us some interesting information about destinations, airline amenities, hotels and just great information we use to plan some of our different travel. We subscribe to a lot of publications, but Global Traveler stays on our coffee table. — STEVEN AND ANGELA WHITE
With respect to destinations I recommend, my wife and I have had some fantastic vacations, and I would recommend just about all of them. The temples and shrines of Bangkok and Chiang Mai are amazing. I think I wrote about the Anantara Hotel we stayed at in Chiang Rai. It has an elephant rescue camp. There are also beautiful gardens and an opium museum. Phuket Island is a wonderful way to end a hectic sightseeing vacation. We stayed at Mom Tri’s Villa Royale Hotel and enjoyed the beach and pools, the restaurants and the spa. We flew All Nippon Airways’ business class on the trans-Pacific flights, which I highly recommend. We took a Tauck Tour to China, visiting Beijing, Xi’an, Guilin, Chongqing, a three-day Yangzi River cruise, Shanghai and Hong Kong. The harbor skylines of both Shanghai and Hong Kong are breathtaking, especially at night when they are lit up. We traveled to Beijing from Washington Dulles Airport on United’s non-stop flight in the first-class cabin. We were the only two passengers in first class. We returned on Cathay Pacific in business class from Hong Kong to New York, with a brief refueling stop in Vancouver.
We will be returning to Asia this month, visiting Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and Singapore. We will have the opportunity to sample the business-class cabins of Austrian Airlines, Thai Airways and Air China. A trip to southern Africa is also an exciting vacation. We visited Cape Town and the Sabi Sabi Sands game reserve. This game reserve is adjacent to Kruger National Park but is a private game reserve. There are no fences between Kruger and Sabi Sabi Sands, so you see the same animals. The Jeeps at Sabi Sabi Sands can go anywhere the driver thinks the animals are. We stayed in the Earth Lodge, definitely not “tenting.” The schedule includes an early-morning safari, an earlyevening safari and three meals. We flew to and from South Africa, and from South Africa to Victoria Falls, on South African Airways. The food was quite good. — MARVIN SINGER The past few years saw extraordinary entrepreneurial success with business travel for projects to Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Turkey, Mexico, Jamaica, Belgium, France and Italy. I went on a “magical” (that is how my hosts described it, and they did not exaggerate!) trip to Paris as a guest of French fashion designer Thierry Mugler and his team to celebrate the 20th anniversary of his Angel fragrance. My host made all of the bookings; and although I had been to Paris many times before — and even lived there for a few months as a graduate exchange student — this particular trip was a completely different experience. I stayed at the Royal Monceau, now my favorite hotel in the world. I enjoyed the convenient location to Paris’ central business districts and met colleagues for a drink at the hotel’s Bar Long. The cocktails are memorable and service is efficient. The Royal Monceau has a Clarins Spa, a gym and indoor pool and the best breakfast service I have ever enjoyed anywhere at the hotel’s La Cuisine restaurant. I had dinner at Helene Darroze’s gastronomic restaurant. She is one of the leading Michelin-starred French chefs. I recommend lunch at Le Hoche restaurant. It is the perfect setting for a business lunch — be sure to order the clafouti for dessert. I voted for Turkish Airlines, which became my favorite airline when I flew it in connection with my work on a disaster risk financing program that required me to travel to Sri Lanka and to Pakistan. I flew business class on Turkish Airlines from Boston to İstanbul and then enjoyed a layover of more than 12 hours in the airline’s spectacular business lounge. The lounge features every amenity you could ever want, from great food to showers to business services. I then connected to Colombo, Sri Lanka, and returned from Islamabad to İstanbul to Boston. Turkish Airlines has the best in-fight cuisine. It manages to serve food that is moist, fresh and flavorful, rare for in-flight dining. The airline is my new choice for all of my business travel to Asia. For travel to Europe, I favor United Airlines’ Polaris business class. I just returned from a month working in Bellagio, Italy, and I flew United business class to Milan. I miss the original in-flight amenity kit it used to offer, but otherwise I love the in-flight service and, in particular, the wine selection. — DONNA CHILDS
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Safe and Secure Protect your devices from cyber attacks while traveling. BY AUDREY F. HENDERSON
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AFTER ARRIVING AT THE AIRPORT and making it through security, a quick check of the time reveals boarding for the flight doesn’t begin for another hour. The airport has a free WiFi network, presenting an ideal opportunity to snap a selfie and post an update to Facebook. Not so fast. Without ensuring the network connection is legitimate, travelers may set themselves up for identity theft or malware. Identity thieves and other bad actors frequently set up phony hotspots throughout airports with legitimatesounding names, warns Daniel Plante, Ph.D., a professor of computer science at Stetson University in DeLand, Florida, and a cybersecurity expert.
“The airport may have put a lot of money into making sure the public WiFi is free, but you don’t know which one is real,” Plante says. “The safest thing to do in an airport is to go to the information booth and [ask] ‘What is the name of your WiFi network?’ There may be other ones [networks] but they’re not the official sites. You can try the other ones, but it’s at your own risk.” Bluetooth devices represent another risk travelers may not be aware of and should be avoided whenever possible, especially in airports, according to Plante. “When you’re traveling, if you don’t need it, turn off Bluetooth on your phone; turn off Blue-
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feature
If travelers must connect to a public WiFi network in an airport or in any public place, such connections should be made through a virtual private network. A VPN funnels internet traffic through an encrypted channel, allowing users to surf anonymously. Ensure website URLs begin with “https” rather than “http”; this ensures web traffic is conducted through encrypted connections. Ad blockers and other browser extensions also enhance cybersecurity while traveling. The Electronic Frontier Foundation offers two browser extensions specifically devoted to enhancing cybersecurity on both personal computers and mobile devices: HTTPS Everywhere and Privacy Badger. HTTPS Everywhere rewrites http:// URLs to redirect to https:// URLs, while Privacy Badger blocks invisible trackers. Both browser extensions are free and work with Chrome, Firefox and Opera browsers, as well as with Firefox for Android mobile browsers. Even with cybersecurity safeguards in place, it’s wise to avoid accessing personal email or financial accounts over an airport WiFi network. General surfing on news or entertainment sites is usually all right, although clicking
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tooth on your computer. [Using] a Bluetooth keyboard in a public area, it’s the most trivial thing just to intercept the Bluetooth traffic. It’s not encrypted, and [it’s possible to] just collect everything that the person is typing on their computer,” Plante says. “If you are doing that in a public airport or in any sort of a public space, then at least make sure that you’re not doing anything that would be really sensitive. You know, don’t log into accounts, don’t log into your bank.” Personal mobile data plans represent a safer albeit more costly alternative to public airport WiFi surfing for both laptops and mobile devices. Many mobile plans allow devices to serve as personal hotspots, with computers tethered to the mobile device via a USB cable. It’s also possible to connect laptops to personal mobile hotspots via password-protected WiFi connections, but that’s less secure than a hardwired connection. A dongle — a small USB device that plugs directly into a computer — represents another option for high-speed internet connections while traveling that is safer than airport WiFi networks. Dongles are available via pay-asyou-go plans or for specified contract periods.
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Especially during extended trips, travelers must access their email, banking and other personal accounts. Fortunately, such transactions can usually be conducted relatively safely over a hotel WiFi connection. Such networks are often passwordprotected, with less access to the public than an airport WiFi network, according to Plante. “I feel like I can do financial transactions and things like that in my room. You can’t just say I’m not going to do anything for a month. I’m willing to take that risk. We do have to do things; you have to use email,” Plante says. “Especially when you’re traveling for extended periods, you can’t just stay off of everything, not do anything. So I calculate the risk and I only do things when I have [access to] networks that are safer.” Even so, travelers should employ cybersecurity measures such as VPN, browser extensions and avoiding Bluetooth connections when using hotel WiFi networks. When using mobile devices, dedicated apps, including apps for social media platforms, are often a safer choice than mobile optimized websites. Plante believes mobile websites “are going to be less secure in general than the apps. That’s like a rich area for people to
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find very subtle flaws in the way that communications are taking place. You know, there are headers, there are cookies — sometimes people can find ways around it. I feel pretty confident with most of the apps that I get with the iPhone. Apple Store really vets things carefully. My feeling is that you’re probably safer with a dedicated app from a respected supplier. If it’s an app from Google, if it’s an app from somebody respected, I would feel pretty safe about that.” In actuality, taking measures to ensure cybersecurity while traveling should begin well before travel begins. Travelers should determine whether they really want to bring computers, tablets, gaming devices or other pieces of tech hardware along. If so, ensure the devices are password-protected, with an option for remote wiping in case of loss or theft. Operating systems for all devices should be updated, including critical or important security patches. File sharing options and auto connect and location sharing functions should also be disabled if they are not already. Travelers should alert banks and credit card companies about their travel plans to avoid potential fraud restrictions from being placed on their accounts. Spending should be limited to one or two cards if possible. This makes it easier to check spending after returning from a trip and to detect suspicious purchases or transactions. Especially cautious travelers often substitute so-called “dumb” devices for their regular laptops and smartphones. They set up devices with clean operating systems and a minimum of programs and apps and no personal information. Accessing personal files and information through such devices can be accomplished through remote desktop programs or remote access of individual files through a VPN or a cloud-based backup system. In extreme cases, so-called “burner” devices are discarded at the end of a trip. However, unless a traveler’s plans involve espionage or similar covert activities, actually discarding substitute devices is not necessary. “I won’t bring my latest version iPhone when I travel,” Plante says. “[I’ll substitute] a little flip phone or something, get a local SIM card and just make calls when I need to and not take the chance of hurting my phone. So that’s kind of the same role as a burner phone. But I don’t throw that out. I just take out the SIM card. It’s not really as smart of a phone but it’s a lot safer than taking your own phone.”
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on banner ads is not advisable. Even if the ads are not malware, they often deposit tracking cookies and other undesirables on unsuspecting users’ computers. Safest of all: Avoid internet connections in airports altogether, according to Plante. “When I’m in airports I try not to go to sensitive sites. Most of the time I work offline. Unless I need something desperately on the internet, I just keep my WiFi off.”
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mice | BRUSSELS
A Brussels Breakout The capital of Europe broadens its potential to host meetings and events. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY ARTS QUARTER:
Brussels cityscape from Monts des Arts PHOTO: © TOMAS1111 DREAMSTIME.COM
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CONSIDERED THE MOST densely populated region in Belgium, Brussels inspires corporate travelers with its cosmopolitan vibe. Across the 19 municipalities that call the Brussels-Capital Region home, meeting planners have a field day sourcing pre- and post-event activities as well as unique venues, some of which include palatial surrounds. According to one insider, the European capital, which attracts elite international organizations and top government officials visiting the European Parliament, pushed the reset button to broaden its meetings potential. Elisabeth Van Ingelgem, CMP, director, the Convention & Association Bureau at Visit Brussels, relays that growth potential. “We are also looking into attracting conferences that can highlight sectors here where we have local champions who can attract big congresses on different levels,” she said from her Brussels-based office. The city, she points out, offers additional sectors the meetings industry can tap into such as
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sustainability, fashion and high tech. To attract the next generation of MICE bookings, the city commissioned renowned starchitect Jean Nouvel to create a futuristic international convention center on the city’s outskirts. Called the NEO II urban regeneration project and located on a historic site near the Atomium, expect future bookings of large trade shows and other congresses. “We are excited about that,” said Van Ingelgem of the new events center, expected to attract 15 million visitors a year. As the top meetings destination for international associations in Europe and second in the world after Singapore, Brussels boasts approximately 2,200 international associations based here. “That makes Brussels the first destination in the world in terms of headquarters of international associations,” Van Ingelgem beamed. Brussels will be the host city for the upcoming 2021 International Geoscience and Remote Sensing Symposium, a U.S.-based organization and one of the many IEEE conferences Brussels hosts. For the top meeting venues, the SQUARE – Brussels Convention Centre, a 14,000-square-foot facility in the heart of the city center, taps into the meetings heritage. The venue occupies the site of the old Palais des Congrès built
for the 1958 World Expo. U.S. meeting planners enjoy the area’s accommodations, from the 281-room Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Brussels with its 2-Michelinstarred restaurant to the 354-room Crowne Plaza Brussels – Le Palace with its 19,840-square-foot meeting space. In this fairly compact city, the city center’s proximity to major transportation routes makes it a key hub. “We have a big international airport and train connections four times an hour. It takes less than 20 minutes from downtown,” Van Ingelgem says of the easy, no-nonsense transfer — so fast you won’t have time to fire up your laptop. On the food and beverage scene, planners can book venues themed on golden Belgian fries, chocolate making and beer sampling. As the pub scene evolves, Van Ingelgem said, “We have very old ones, but in recent years we have seen a lot of new and creative brewers in Brussels. It is not only heritage, it’s also about creativity.” For instance, the hallmark of the cul-de-sac Delirium Café is its beer selection. Depending on the season, find approximately 2,500 beer varieties from around the globe. A Guinness World Record holder for the most beers, the Café may offer flambéed or greenish-tinged beer or even mega 4-liter servings. At the longtime favorite, A La Mort Subite bar (whose name means “sudden death” in French), customers imbibe the classic Mort Subite beer at this fourth-generation family-run pub where the décor dates back to the 1920s. For Belgian fries-style meet-ups, head to the historic Chez Léon, opened in 1893 in the first district for a maximum 232 seating capacity. The classic Maison
FOOD SCENE:
Chocolate-making class at Planète Chocolat (top), and Brussels fries and beer at a pub (bottom) PHOTOS: © PLANÈTE CHOCOLAT, © PLANÈTE CHOCOLAT, © BOMBAERT - DREAMSTIME.COM
UNIQUE VENUES
Antoine, founded in 1948, remains one of the capital’s beloved fries-sampling spots, along with Fritland in the city center, considered the most famous spot in Brussels to taste the golden Belgian fries. For group chocolate-making workshops, Brussels boasts plenty of venues. Some popular spots include the artisanal manufacturing of Belgian chocolate at Concept Chocolate, offering your choice of wine or beer and chocolate workshops. At Planète Chocolat, groups experience a Willy Wonka atmosphere where instructors showcase techniques and offer team-building workshops. Winner of the Travelers’ Choice by TripAdvisor last year, this go-to venue has become a true ambassador of the world of Belgian chocolate.
The Grand Hotel Astoria was built for the 1910 Brussels World’s Fair under the decree of King Leopold II and served as a meeting place for kings, dignitaries and world personalities such as former British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill and former U.S. President Dwight Eisenhower. The property declined over the years, but its new owner, Corinthia Hotels, a small collection of 5-star luxury hotels, is restoring the grande dame. Watch for the anticipated 2021 opening of the 121-room Corinthia Grand Hotel Astoria Brussels, expected to hold fabulous, high-style meetings to suit 21st-century business travelers. The lavish property will become the city’s leading luxury hotel with its restored grand ballroom, multiple meeting rooms, several dining areas, an ESPA spa with thermal area and luxurious guestrooms and suites. corinthia.com/en/hotels/brussels
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destination one | CHENGDU
Sichuan Hot Spot Chengdu heats up as a fashionable global city. BY FELICITY LONG MODERN AND ANCIENT: (Left to right) Chengdu downtown waterfront; and Daci Temple dragon fountain, exterior and rooftop sculptures PHOTOS: © CHUYU DREAMSTIME.COM, © PLEJ92 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © VOGELSP - DREAMSTIME.COM, © PLEJ92 - DREAMSTIME.COM
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CHENGDU, THE CAPITAL of China’s Sichuan region, is having a moment. In fact, the city is booming, both as a business and leisure destination — so much so, a second international airport is under construction. When it opens in 2020, it will be the country’s third-largest airport, after Beijing and Shanghai. How did a city that not so long ago was a mere blip on the radar for a lot of Westerners become such a hot spot? Smart investment choices played a role, spurring strong growth in such sectors as international manufacturing — Toyota and Microsoft maintain a presence here, as do food companies like Nestlé and Danone — as well as pharmaceuticals and aviation. The city is also attractive to startups, particularly in the area of software design and application.
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COMING AND GOING
U.S. citizens must have a valid passport and a visa. You can obtain a tourist L visa or a business F visa through a Chinese consulate in the United States, but it’s a complicated process and requires letters of invitation from your host company or hotel. Consider using a visa agency to simplify the process. Your U.S. passport must be valid for at least six months past your dates of travel and have at least two blank passport pages.
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE
Mandarin; however, the local Sichuan dialect is more commonly spoken.
Access also plays a part. Even before the addition of the new airport, Chengdu already ranked as the largest international hub in the Central and Western regions of China and the fourth-biggest in the country overall. Most flights from the United States require an extra stop, but some airlines introduced non-stop flights, including United Airlines from San Francisco International and Hainan Airlines from New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport. Rail access from other key destinations in China includes a new high-speed railway connection from Chengdu to Xi’an, in operation since late 2017. But facts and figures only tell part of the story. What Westerners likely notice immediately on arrival in Chengdu is the relaxed and even familiar vibe that permeates the city. Yes, you’ll see ancient temples and pagodas; tiny, winding streets; and signage in Chinese. But you’ll also see familiar upscale franchises in prominent locations, from Hermès to Armani; young people in trendy fashions laughing in the streets; and outdoor cafés where you can stop for coffee or a glass of rosé. Call it “China lite,” although travelers looking for authenticity find plenty of that, too, especially away from the Sino-Ocean Taikoo Li district, offering a mix of high-end global and local shopping, restaurants and, incongruously, the ancient Daci Temple set among the touristy venues.
LODGING KEMPINSKI HOTEL CHENGDU Located near the U.S. Consulate and Jincheng Palace of Fine Arts, the property blends European and Asian ambience and cuisine. Relax in the indoor pool or book an event in the business facilities. 42 Ren Min South Road $$$ SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, CHENGDU Enjoy city and river views and take advantage of club floor access for your short
or extended stay. Amenities include an indoor pool, spa and multiple eateries. 9 Binjiang Dong Road $$$ THE TEMPLE HOUSE The 100-room Swire Hotels property sports the posh look of a Qing temple but with a contemporary twist. The indoor-outdoor Jing bar spices up Negroni cocktails, and Mi Xun Spa makes jet lag but a memory. 81 Bitieshu St., Jinjiang District $$$$
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Speaking of tourists, the rising importance of tourism proves another key factor in Chengdu’s growth on the international stage. According to government figures, the city’s overall income from inbound visitors increased by more than 10 percent by the end of 2017 over the previous year, totaling 3 million visitors who spent nearly $3.5 billion. Interestingly, the profile of these visitors covers a broad spectrum, with key segments including corporate travelers, weekend and holiday leisure guests, families and MICE attendees. To accommodate these visitors, luxury hotels scramble to keep up. Those that have popped up in recent years include the Fairmont Chengdu; The Temple House; The Ritz-Carlton, Chengdu; and The St. Regis Chengdu. More international 5-star hotels — like the Anantara Jinsha Chengdu Hotel and the Rosewood Chengdu — are set to open in the next three or four years, adding as many as 25,000 rooms to the city’s inventory. Also notable: the massive New Exhibition Center in Xinglong Town, functioning as the region’s permanent venue to host Western fairs since October 2018.
CITY OASIS: The Temple House exterior (top) and courtyard (bottom) PHOTOS: © THE TEMPLE HOUSE
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LOCAL WARES:
Jinli Street souvenir shops PHOTO: © PHUONGPHOTO - DREAMSTIME.COM
DINING LI XUAN Choose from Cantonese and Sichuan dishes at the fine-dining restaurant overseen by Executive Chef Martin Li. The lush setting evokes the ancient Shu civilization, and seasonal menu options include vegetarian selections. The Ritz-Carlton, Chengdu; 269 Shuncheng Ave., Qingyang District $$$$
CHECKING IN WITH KURT MACHER General Manager, The Temple House
What is Chengdu like culturally in terms of openness and welcoming all types of visitors? Chengdu is one of the friendliest and most openminded cities [in Asia]. I don’t feel like a foreigner here — everyone smiles at me and makes me feel welcome. Chengdu has one of the largest LGBTQ+ communities in China, and [couples] freely hold hands in public. Many millennials live here who are cool and fashionable, way ahead of Beijing and Shanghai. Overall, the local culture is relaxed, casual and easygoing. How about the WiFi situation? Is that a problem? You can’t access sites like Facebook, Google, WhatsApp or Instagram [via local internet], so the only way to do so is via a VPN. There is no problem with WiFi at The Temple House, and at home I also have WiFi. If you were to arrange a business meeting with someone local, would you hold it during a meal? Are power breakfasts and working lunches acceptable? Most business meetings are conducted either at
lunch, during tea in a teahouse or at dinner, which could include a hot pot meal. With locals, no one would have a power breakfast. What is your favorite off-property leisure activity? I love exploring Taikoo Li especially if there are new stores opening, and visiting Daci Temple, so serene and quiet in the center of Chengdu. I also walk with my dog to parks and have local tea and enjoy the local community and culture. Peoples Park is my favorite. I also love to go to Jinli Street, where you can eat the best local street food and shop for local souvenirs to bring home to family and friends. You can also buy a great variety of local spicy sauces. Next door is the Temple of Marquis Wu, always a great spiritual visit. What about for families? I suggest a daytrip to the mountains outside of Chengdu — Qing Cheng Mountains — a 1.5-hour drive from The Temple House. Taoism originated there, and it’s great to go up the mountain to see many Taoist temples. A cable car takes you up, and you can hike down or even take the cable car back down if the kids are too small. Local teahouses are attached to many temples, and the views are stunning.
MA WANG ZI Take a break from hot pot dining at this local favorite, but be prepared to wait; it doesn’t take reservations. Crispy duck and grilled shrimp in the shell are popular, and be sure to BYOB. 1 E. Kangshi St., Dacisi $$ SOCIAL Get casual at the buffet-style restaurant at The St. Regis, where you can opt for regional or international fare served indoors or on a terrace overlooking the Chinese Estates Plaza. The St. Regis Chengdu, 88 Taisheng Road S., Qingyang District $$$
JUST THE FACTS
Time zone: GMT +8 Phone code: Country code: 86 City code: 28 Currency: Yuan renminbi (CNY or RMB) Key industries: Manufacturing, automobiles, IT, aviation, financial and insurance, pharmaceutical
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al ition d a r t ered or a wn f ht be off re o d ha u sit you mig brot ed n yo , d e l h n a a e W serv ot m t oil ften t. hot p se it. Ho o , e ogur in y s U i . e u l c b pab a bi this r sip o s of e r l e p be sta with
DIVERSIONS Locals in Chengdu seem to have a handle on work-life balance; you’ll likely see them enjoying the same leisure attractions and sites as visitors. For a stroll through the city’s past, for example, set aside time to visit Wide and Narrow Alley, comprising two parallel streets full of tiny shops and eateries, with traditional crafts, produce and artisanal wares on full, noisy display. The streets actually consist of a collection of traditional and recreated buildings where locals, displaced when their original locations were transformed into modern structures, now run their businesses. You can even take a hands-on cooking class here — mapo tofu, anyone? — from a company called Sichuan Gourmet Trails, promoted by the Chengdu Cultural Department. Or spend some serious time exploring the rich culinary traditions of this region. One of the best ways to do that is by partaking of a hot pot dinner at a local restaurant. Consider trying Xiao Long Fan Da Jiang Hot Pot — you’ll know it by the giant dragon by the front door — where costumed singers, dancers and sword fighters entertain as you dine. Sichuan cuisine is known for its fiery spices, and even though some hot pot restaurants offer a spicy and an allegedly non-spicy version, be prepared to set your sinuses on fire. Be aware, too, hot pot is a form of communal dining, so vegetables, meats, tofu and spices are typically tossed into a giant circular pot and cooked together — just something to think about for strict vegetarians and vegans.
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Know also that few of the restaurants and local attractions boast English-language websites, so your concierge or local colleague will prove your best friend in suggesting eateries and guiding you. Even if you have no time for any other leisure activity in Chengdu, don’t even consider passing up a morning at the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, about a half-hour away from the city center. The 250-acre facility, also functioning as a botanical garden, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and played a key role in first putting Sichuan on the global map. More than 100 giant pandas of various ages live at the base, from Instagram-worthy babies climbing around their enclosures to massive adults who seemingly live to eat and sleep. Time your visit for the morning, when the adults are marginally awake; by afternoon they are mostly passed out from having dined on huge quantities of bamboo. The proceeds from the visit help support the center, with the admission price a bargain at only about $10. Give yourself plenty of time to do the center justice and save your shopping for the end, where the authorized shops and local vendors offer every imaginable panda-themed toy and accessory. Because the pandas are such an international sensation, most hotels offer packages to get you to and from the base. Finally, enjoy the city’s lively nightlife and take in some of China’s most innovative hip hop and rap music culture near Sichuan University, or check out the LGBTQ+ bars in the Dongmen Daqiao district.
FAVORITE FOODS: Chengdu traditional hot pot dinner (left), and Chengdu pandas eating bamboo (right) PHOTOS: © CHUYU - DREAMSTIME.COM, © DEYAN DENCHEV - DREAMSTIME.COM
INFO TO GO
Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport lies about 10 miles southwest of Chengdu city center. Taxi fare from the airport to the city center costs about $12 and usually takes 15–30 minutes. Public transportation options include a direct link from the airport to the city center via the new No. 10 metro line that runs from both airport terminals. Five shuttle buses serve different parts of the city, including the main train stations, the new Convention and Exhibition Center, the U.S. Consulates and local hotels.
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9–5 | CAPE TOWN
GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town
passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques
he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE
JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers
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stateside | BIRMINGHAM
Leaps and Bounds Birmingham surges forward as an epicenter for technology startups. BY TERESA BITLER ON THE RISE: Downtown Birmingham skyline
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THE LARGEST CITY IN ALABAMA, Birmingham was founded in 1871 at the intersection of two important railroad lines. In its first several decades, the city produced so much steel it was known as the Pittsburgh of the South, and it grew at such a “magical” pace it earned another nickname: The Magic City. When the steel industry crumbled, health care and finance took its place. Today the city hopes its burgeoning tech industries will cause a new moniker to stick: The Silicon Valley of the South. “Tech has always been a part of Birmingham,” says Jon Nugent, vice president of innovation and technology for the Birmingham Business Alliance. “When Birmingham was a steel city, steel was technology.” Health care naturally spurs innovation and technology, Nugent points out, but since the 1980s — and especially
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in the last decade — the city has seen a significant uptick in cutting-edge businesses. He attributes it to the University of Alabama at Birmingham, a Tier One research facility, which attracts talented undergraduates, graduate students, professors and researchers to Birmingham. Many come for an education and decide to stay; quite a few, even as students, begin their own businesses. Weida Tan is a prime example. A foreign exchange student from China who came during high school, he returned to UAB for his undergraduate and graduate degrees. As he pursued his Ph.D. in computer science at UAB, though, he saw a need in the computer peripherals sector and founded Fledging. Tan believes he couldn’t have started Fledging anywhere else, citing the support of UAB, Birmingham Business Alliance and the city itself, according to Nugent. XpertDox offers a similar story. The UAB medical doctors who developed XpertDox, a resource to help patients find experts specializing in their disease, came to Birmingham because of the university. After founding XpertDox, they chose to stay in Birmingham because they didn’t want to get lost in a big city. “They knew they could get the attention and resources they need here,” Nugent says. The mother-daughter team behind Mixtroz, a social networking app that helps meeting planners facilitate large events, actually moved from Nashville to Birmingham for the same reason. At a conference during Birmingham Innovation Week in June 2018, cofounder Ashlee Ammons explained they made the move because of the support they could receive, telling the audi-
ence, “It took us, in Nashville, a year and a half to make the same progress we made here in Birmingham in 13 weeks.” Birmingham doesn’t limit itself to technology-based startups, though. In fact, quite a few have little or nothing to do with technology at all. For example, Alabama Sawyer creates sleek furniture using reclaimed wood from the city’s fallen trees, while Big Spoon Creamery churns out some of Alabama’s best small-batch artisan ice cream. Both companies are located in MAKEbhm, a makerspace in the Avondale neighborhood. However, the city wouldn’t have the tech or startups it does without the Innovation Depot. Housed in an abandoned Sears in downtown Birmingham, it is one of the nation’s leading business incubators, with more than 100 member companies. Over the last five years, those companies have had an economic impact of $1.66 billion and created more than 1,000 new jobs, according to the Innovation Depot’s latest annual economic impact report. “Birmingham today is a more exciting version of Silicon Valley because there are more companies here with different focuses,” Nugent says. He believes Birmingham has other advantages over the original Silicon Valley. For one, it’s affordable — the cost of living is 90 percent of the national average cost of living — something that makes the city very attractive to entrepreneurs starting new businesses. It’s also vibrant, filled with young, highly educated professionals. Birmingham also offers much in terms of quality of life, says Vickie Ashford with the Greater Birmingham Convention and Visitors Bureau. It features several world-class museums including the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute, highlighting the civil rights efforts within the city, and the Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum, which displays more than 900 motorcycles. For those who prefer the outdoors, Birmingham offers great hiking and mountain biking
JUST DESSERTS:
Dolester Miles holding her famous coconut pecan cake PHOTO: © CARY NORTON
all isn’t m gha city min Bir ss. The le ine dib bus ncre s home i s i st boa ms and mes u e Ja ers mus 2018 winn e h d t r to wa rd A anding a e B st nd Out for urant a astry P ta Res anding t s Out f. Che
SCENIC DRIVES
opportunities. Additionally, the city has recently become a foodie destination, especially since Highlands Bar & Grill won the 2018 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant and its pastry chef, Dolester Miles, won the 2018 James Beard Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef. Many of the downtown storefronts have been converted into restaurants and its abandoned department stores and office buildings into lofts. Nugent expects 10 years from now many of today’s tech businesses and startups will play a major role in Birmingham’s economy, much as internet-based delivery service Shipt does now. The company was recently sold to Target for $550 million on the condition it remain in Birmingham. If today’s startups follow Shipt’s lead, Birmingham may very well become the Silicon Valley of the South.
Nestled in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains, Birmingham is surrounded by postcard-worthy scenery. The Talladega Scenic Drive lies about an hour east of Birmingham on SR 281, winds 26 miles through the lush Talladega National Forest and features Cheaha Mountain, the highest point in Alabama. The drive takes about an hour, but spend the $1 per person and enjoy Cheaha State Park while in the area. The Selma to Montgomery March Byway includes Selma civil rights landmarks such as the First Baptist Church and Brown Chapel and retraces Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. and his followers’ route to the Edmund Pettus Bridge, where they met physical opposition on March 7, 1965. The drive continues to Montgomery, where King delivered his speech “How Long, Not Long” after successfully attempting the march again three weeks later. In addition to its history, the 54-mile drive passes through beautiful Alabama countryside. For a daytrip, take US 20 east to Atlanta. The 2.5-hour drive crosses Logan Martin Lake, goes through Talladega National Forest just north of Cheaha Mountain and passes Sweetwater Creek State Park just before entering Atlanta. Explore Atlanta for a few hours and easily return to Birmingham in time for dinner.
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9–5 | MILAN
Influence and Affluence Impress clients in prosperous and multifaceted Milan. BY ALLISON VOIGTS HEART OF THE CITY:
Early morning at the Duomo and Piazza del Duomo PHOTO: © ANDREY OMELYANCHUK DREAMSTIME.COM
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MILAN HAS QUIETLY POWERED ITALY for centuries but may be on the verge of a higher profile than ever before. With a gross domestic product of $308 billion in 2016, its Porta Nuova District alone boasts a larger economy than four-fifths of the world’s countries, making it the richest neighborhood in Europe. Already a leader in fashion, publishing, manufacturing, banking and more, as Milan steps further into the spotlight in the wake of Brexit, the timing is perfect for a business trip here. It all starts with coffee in the Piazza del Duomo, Milan’s spiritual and commercial heart. Meet clients for a standing espresso at Bar Duomo for a head-on view of the cathedral’s ghostly white spires, or sit down to a morning cappuccino and croissant around the corner at Giacomo Caffè. You’ll find the most luxurious breakfast at the historic Caffè Motta inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. This spectacular arcade serves as a glass-domed passageway connecting the Duomo with Milan’s other top attraction, the Teatro alla Scala, a premier opera venue. Housing some of the top designer brands like Prada, Versace, Louis
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Vuitton, Gucci and Armani, the Galleria also features numerous restaurants and cafés sure to impress. Just as the Galleria set the template for malls all over the globe, Caffè Motta pioneered the concept of the quintessential Italian café. Try the panettone, a citrusy raisin cake. From there, make sure to stroll down one of the shopping streets that radiate outward from the piazza, like Via Dante toward the Sforza Castle. For lunch meetings with clients, hop on the tram to eat lunch on the go, literally. ATMosfera converted one of the city’s beloved trams into a fine-dining establishment. Reservations are critical to secure one of the eight elegant tables surrounded by teak paneling and gorgeous views of the streets passing by, and you can even book the tram exclusively for your meeting. Many of Milan’s trams have operated since the early 20th century, outlasting war and recession, meaning they’re living
DISTINCTIVE DESIGN: The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II on the Piazza del Duomo PHOTO: © SCALIGER - DREAMSTIME.COM
he cala, t alla S o r t p a o Te ur e, se in E Milan’s u o h a e city oper 00. Th ,0 largest 2 n a h ion for more t stinat e d seats s u o ule. e a fam trian r becam s u A g durin opera
museums that remain close to the hearts of locals. All of Milan’s transportation has the same singular charm: both classic and easy to use. The city’s three airports — Orio al Serio; Linate; and the main airport, Malpensa — offer trains or shuttles to the city center. For €11, the Malpensa Express arrives in 40 minutes at Milan Central, the grandest train station in Europe, whose onward options include high-speed connections to nearby Turin, Bologna and Venice; the metro’s four lines; the tram; and 80 bus routes (Line 94
stops at most of the important sites around the city center). Buy tickets — including day, week or month passes — at the machines or kiosks, and always remember to validate your ticket in the machine. Choosing where to lunch from Milan’s more than a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants may be a challenge, but Bice, a mainstay, specializes in business lunches and even offers a private room. Solferino, another hundredyear-old establishment, serves Milan’s specialty, osso buco, veal shank braised with white wine. The risotto that comes on the side is tinted gold by saffron to represent the financial aspirations of this affluent city. Pair it with a Chianti from the attached wine shop. Milan has an abundance of hotels for your afternoon meeting or lodging. At the Senato Hotel, formerly a family’s private residence, choose from a variety of lavishly designed modern spaces ideal for quiet discussion. In addition to all the standard luxuries, the Park Hyatt offers numerous meeting rooms, including high-tech services like simultaneous translation for up to 100 participants. Also on site is a beloved local bar, the Mio Lab. Perhaps the best location to host your meeting is the Town House Galleria, the world’s first certified 7-star hotel. Located within the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the hotel accesses a walkway overlooking both the grand atrium and the rooftops of Milan, including the spires of the Duomo. Last, it’s time for the aperitivo. Endless opportunities await on nearly every street to take part in this most Milanese tradition, punctuating the work day and segueing into luscious dining, but your best bet has to be Terrazza Aperol. Overlooking the Piazza del Duomo, where the day began, this chic bar occupies the original site of the famous Caffè Motta. Distilled from bitter herbs and rhubarb, the vivid orange spirit, Aperol, is actually sweeter and smoother than its stronger sister, Campari, and can best be enjoyed as a spritz, with equal parts Prosecco and a splash of soda water, as you close the day.
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after 5 | TUNIS
Mediterranean Nights Tunis comes to life with the setting sun. BY RICHARD NEWTON
THE ARAB SPRING, the seismic upheaval that swept across North Africa and the Middle East in 2011, began in Tunisia. The country still feels the impact, and the cultural and social consequences are far from settled. Conservative Muslim factions continue to attempt to sway the country in their direction, campaigning for, among other things, restrictions on bars and nightclubs. But at heart Tunis is a Mediterranean capital; and as the sun goes down, the city boasts a variety of nightlife. For a relaxed start to the evening, try the exquisitely picturesque satellite town of Sidi Bou Said, perched on cliffs overlooking the Gulf of Tunis. Whitewashed houses with vivid blue doors line the narrow cobbled streets. In sea-view cafés you can take a mint tea and smoke a narguileh (hookah pipe) while the sea morphs through the colors of dusk and slips into velvet darkness. With the view gone, Sidi Bou Said winds down. But Tunis itself is stirring. Don’t expect the gaudy attractions of some of the tourist resorts down the coast, but as a modern city with a sizeable population of students and young professionals, it offers plenty of cosmopolitan venues dotted about. Popular Le Carpe Diem, in the coastal suburb of La Marsa, offers music and dancing into the early hours, fueled by cocktails and snacks. Downtown, the bars of the international hotels present the best option for visitors without inside knowledge (though check in advance if they serve alcohol — not all do). The El Mouradi Hotel Africa, located in the center of the city, features a bustling lobby bar, one of those places around which life seems to revolve. Best of all, plunge into the ancient Medina. Within its thronging maze of alleys, the shops and stalls stay open for business into the night. It’s a memorable experience and offers perhaps the true face of Tunis nightlife. Homosexuality is currently illegal in Tunisia, though there are moves, led by the president, to change the law. For now, LGBTQ+ visitors face particular risks and challenges when visiting Tunisia, though the Arab Spring may yet bloom. HISTORIC CENTER:
Narrow street in the Medina of Tunis PHOTO: © NAEL_PICTURES - DREAMSTIME.COM
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ed oduc st pr r i f s hage Cart ne wa i t w n n e ere sia nci rds h Tuni of a a e y e m i in e t go. V in th ars a e wine. y t 0 ellen c 2,00 x e make still
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neighborhoods | AUSTIN
Austin Evolution East Sixth Street transforms into a trendy destination. BY SHARON KING HOGE
ONE OF AMERICA’S FASTEST-GROWING and most popular large cities, Austin not only is expanding outward to meet demand but also is revitalizing as the far end of Sixth Street undergoes transformation. Long a downtown mainstay, Sixth stretches west from the business district and upscale venues on through honky-tonk party central. Once a rundown, low-rent district across the freeway, East Sixth emerges as a new destination with brand-new high-rise apartments soaring over trendy clubs and bars. Cross Route 35 and see the restoration of the Legation, where the French resided during their stage of “six flags over Texas.” Near the park-like Texas State Cemetery, George Washington Carver Museum salutes the historic importance of the local black community. But it is on East Sixth itself, all along the street, where people come to dine, shop and sip. Within a few blocks Birds Barbershop offers buzz and razor cuts until 9 p.m. Waterman Supply stocks skateboards, backpacks and Lone Star caps. Powder Vintage sells blue jeans and candles. And 7–10 p.m., Practice Yoga offers donationbased classes. No type of global cuisine is overlooked. Murasaki rolls and otoro tuna star on the sushi menu at Fukumoto. Choose from cilantro pesto, soppressata, kalamata
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olives, basic marinara and other options at build-yourown Spartan Pizza. Inside vividly painted Buenos Aires Café, order up pastel de papas — Argentine-style shepherd’s pie chock-full of beef, raisins, olives and onions. Fare at Ah Sing Den ranges from dim sum to chicken and waffles, washed down with kimchi Bloody Marys. In a courtyard of picnic tables and hammocks bordered by food trucks, Carabao Express serves up Filipino barbecue and artesano Colombiano. Enjoy Brazilian street food at Boteco and tacos at Pueblo Viejo. And Popola’s draws queues for its beef fajita, special hot dog and South American-style fast foods. Chi’lantro’s menu takes on Korean fusion. For dessert at Gelateria Gemelli, sample plum sorbetto or salted caramel ice cream teamed with a cup of Viet coffee. Take your pick of bars and pubs: Shangri-La serves drinks beside its billiard El Paso table; the Hen House is geared to women empowerment; Attabar sets alight a flaming Welcome to the Jungle banana rum cocktail to sip while playing Scrabble at outdoor tables. Raise a glass to revived East Sixth, where everything old is new again.
GLOBAL GOOD EATS: Carabao Express serves up Filipino barbecue and artesano Colombiano PHOTO: © CARABAO EXPRESS
rom ne f i s i cu e on glob Find e h t. nd t tree S h arou xt t Si Eas Amarillo
TEXAS
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friends & family | TBILISI
Tag Along in Tbilisi Meet up in the creative Georgian city for culture and cuisine. BY KRISTY ALPERT uces prod 0 a i g 15 Geor than ne e r o m wi rs of ian e t i l rg on milli ear. Geo ts i y each n for a w o n as is k wine , created uct y d purit ural pro s. t a n tive addi o n with 68
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NOT LONG AGO, A TRIP TO the ancient city of Tbilisi began with explaining to friends and family it was in “the country, not the state” of Georgia. Today, friends and families flock together to this Eurasian destination to explore the city’s diverse landscape and vibrant culture. Wedged between Eastern Europe and Western Asia, the city changed hands countless times throughout the centuries as foreign powers vied to lay claim to this strategic gem set along the banks of the mighty Kura River. Kurds, Persians, Russians, Jews, Armenians and Europeans all made their marks on the city, but only in the past decade have the citizens of Tbilisi begun to swirl those influences together to create a truly dynamic atmosphere. Today Tbilisi stands on its own two feet again, no longer recovering from the crippling 80 years of Soviet rule followed by a shaky road to independence that spanned 25 years. The Soviet buildings may remain, but they have been repurposed and reclaimed into chic hotels, trendy nightclubs and urban artist lofts. The super-stylish Rooms Hotels’ Stamba
INFO TO GO
Visitors arrive at Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi International Airport from major gateways all around Asia and Europe. Public transportation is fairly simple throughout the city; a grand total of two lines makes navigating the subway system a breeze. Taxis are inexpensive and prevalent, but don’t forget to negotiate the price before getting in.
OLD MEETS NEW:
Tbilisi Old Town (left), khachapuri (top right), and The Stamba Hotel suite (bottom right) PHOTOS: © XANTANA DREAMSTIME.COM, © EVA ZIATKOVA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © DESIGN HOTELS™
LODGING ROOMS HOTEL TBILISI This 125-room hotel caters to the international creative crowd and welcomes guests to the designer digs as if they were family. 14 Merab Kostava St. $$$$ THE STAMBA HOTEL Housed within a former printing house, this chic hotel offers 42 rooms and some amazing co-working spaces for daytime use, plus a seriously stylish bar.
Hotel recently opened inside what was once a publishing house, where Brutalist architecture contrasts with the colorful history that rests inside through the creative use of stark corridors and welcoming, oversized warehouse windows. A member of Design Hotels, the Stamba features interiors designed by local architecture studio Adjara Arch Group. The Stamba Hotel sits in the heart of the quiet and historic Vera district, best known for the hidden gardens and green spaces inside and between many of the residential units and upscale bars. The Stamba attracts the city’s top creative minds with its ample outdoor spaces and open co-working space along with a dramatically cool drinking den called the Pink Bar. The hotel also offers a bean-to-bar chocolaterie and roastery and an Art Deco café for guests and locals alike. Each of the 42 guestrooms (soon to be 150) boasts industrial features and exposed brickwork with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves that give a nod to the space’s literary past. Guests can choose from the 560-square-foot Aviator Room, the 850-square-foot Aviator King, or the opulent Aviator Suite with a separate living room and show-stopping gilded brass freestanding bathtub. The
suites and casino are designed as an homage to the golden age of aviation and include bomber jacket leather headboards and metallic touches throughout. Nostalgic printing paraphernalia can be found throughout the entire hotel as it winds around a central courtyard that acts as an actual “living” room with lush foliage filling the five-story space beneath a glass-bottomed rooftop pool. The hotel is attached to another venture by the parent company, the Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, the gathering point for locals with its nouveau American restaurant The Kitchen. The restaurant, great for families, offers oversized, communal tables where diners swap stories and even share dishes made from seasonal ingredients. Georgians have become infatuated with American-style cuisine, with restaurants like PIPES Burger Joint and Buffalo Bill packed with locals chowing down on oversized burgers and dipping fries in metal ramekins of ketchup. But despite the buzz around non-local cuisine, Georgia’s own culinary traditions still thrive in this capital city, where outstanding dishes like khachapuri and khinkali await around every corner. Khachapuri is a cheesefilled bread traditionally topped with a raw egg yolk. The dish
14 Merab Kostava St. $$$$ TBILISI MARRIOTT HOTEL This hotel’s central location along Rustaveli Avenue makes it a perfect jumping-off point to experience Tbilisi’s most iconic sites. 13 Shota Rustaveli Ave. $$$$
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is best served hot, with the goal to swirl your fork fiercely from the yolk out to blend the bubbling mess into a central pool of cheese, yolk and dough for dipping the remaining bread. Khinkali are Georgian soup dumplings, often filled with meat and spices. Authentic khinkali have no fewer than 20 pleats, but regardless of the fold count, the traditional way to devour these delicious dumplings is with your hands, grabbing the topknot between your fingers, biting a small hole into the base and sucking the dumpling dry of broth before taking the first real bite. You’ll find great versions of both dishes at the city’s highest restaurant, Chela, at the top of the funicular. A scenic ride to the top takes friends and families inside this lunchtime venue to feast on local dishes like lobiani with red beans; Georgian tomato and cucumber salad; Abkhazian-style sausage with a pomegranate and berry sauce; and a decadent version of fried sulguni, a local cheese. After lunch, head back down the funicular to wander the Old Town and walk off the heavy meal with a short hike to Leghvtakhevi Waterfall. The waterfall is the only one in the entire world located within a walled city, and the paved walkway up to the viewpoint makes it easily accessible for younger and older guests. The Old Town of Tbilisi shows the remnants of the city’s fifth-century roots, with cobblestoned pathways and 17th-century buildings still standing intact. It’s here the city earned its name (Tbilisi means “warm”), as it houses a number of hot springs and historic bathhouses within Abanotubani. The Orbeliani baths have been in use for centuries; a plaque hangs from one of the suites commemorating poet Alexander Pushkin’s experience in the bath during 1829 when he described the experience as “luxurious.” Georgia’s claim to fame as the birthplace of wine is evident throughout the city of Tbilisi with colorful churchkhela — a traditional Georgian sweet made from strung-together hazelnuts dipped in a sweetened, thickened grape juice and aged for 15 to 17 days — treats hanging from just about every storefront but also in the numerous wine tasting rooms and wine bars throughout the city. Georgia’s winemaking traditions are some of the oldest in the world, with many winemakers still using buried qvevri (giant clay vessels) to make delicious versions of Saperavi, Mtsvane and Rkatsiteli. Vino Underground, one of the top wine stores in the city, sells a massive array of bio wines made within the country. The storefront offers wine tastings on request and offers light bites and wine flights during the evening. For a deeper look into the culinary traditions of the country, friends and families can book a class at Culinary Studio Caramel. Classes can be customized to specific dishes
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ARTS AND ANTIQUES:
Paintings at Dry Bridge Market (top), and flea market finds (bottom) PHOTOS: © PHOTOALIONA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © RYHOR BRUYEU - DREAMSTIME.COM
DINING CHELA The stunning views at this mountaintop restaurant equally match the exquisite menu of local cuisine. Kaloubani Street $$
or adjusted to welcome younger chefs into the kitchen for the first time. Near the studio, the Dry Bridge offers the chance to explore an outdoor art gallery of local artists and vendors selling their creations and a few antique items as well. Some trinkets date back to Soviet times, while many booths stock paintings and handmade textiles. Family-friendly dining in Tbilisi is simple, as most restaurants serve dishes family-style. Restaurant Barbarestan serves traditional Georgian recipes taken from a 19th-century recipe book from writer Barbare Eristavi-Jorjadze. Favorite menu items include traditional eggplant served with a walnut sauce, khabizgina (Ossetian pie with potato and Georgian cheese) and kubdari (a meat-filled pie). Tbilisi hosts a number of festivals each year. The annual jazz festival in July attracts world-class acts like Trombone Shorty, Erykah Badu and Wyclef Jean to perform within the open-air squares of the city. Something is always going on in Tbilisi, and the city’s ancient modernity and creative energy make it such an exciting destination to explore.
RESTAURANT BARBARESTAN Family-owned and -operated, Barbarestan features ancient recipes served family-style among candlelit tables and eccentric décor. 132 D. Aghmashenebeli Ave. $$ VINO UNDERGROUND This local spot is unique among wine bars with its focus on natural and smallproduction wines. It offers tastings of rare wines with light bites. 15 Galaktion Tabidze St. $$
bucket list | SWISS ALPS
Snow Heaven Enjoy legendary skiing in Switzerland’s dramatic mountain scenery. BY BECCA HENSLEY
WINTER WONDERS: (Left to right) Skijoring, the Glacier Express, and skiing in Zermatt PHOTOS: © CHRISTIN FARMER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © RHAETISCHE BAHN, © MICHAEL PORTMANN
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WITH FUR-LINED LOUNGE CHAIRS at mid-mountain huts, fondue for sustenance, chalet-style hotels and lift tickets costing less than what you’d pay at most American ski resorts, Switzerland caught my snow bunny daughter’s attention first for another reason. “Mom, can we go to the real Matterhorn?” Having seen the fake mountain at Disneyland, she was smitten. We’d been planning to go to Colorado for winter skiing, a ritual repeated for years and years. But why not make a change? While the Rockies never get old, perhaps it was time to point our skis (and snowboards) in a new direction. Tiny Switzerland, just the size of Vermont and New Hampshire combined, holds a mind-boggling number of ski areas — some 250-plus. Many are large, others diminutive, and all — wedged cheerfully into mountainous terrain — occupy characteristic villages reflective of their regions. Though Norway gets the credit for inventing schussing, the Swiss embraced the sport in the late 19th century as a utilitarian means to traverse the landscape. Not long after, blue blood British tourists discovered skiing’s thrills during long winter stays at tony resorts such as St. Moritz, ensuring the cold-weather phenomenon took hold. FEBRUARY 2019
Today Switzerland, a legendary gathering place for glitterati, famous for its white-gloved service and having hosted the winter Olympics twice, reigns as a snow lover’s paradise. With ski destinations in all its three language regions, each accessible by the efficient Swiss train network, it offers riders long, meandering ski runs; heart-thumping vertical drops; glaciers galore; miles of treeless expanses; and eye-popping vistas. Not necessarily secluded, though set amid stunning nature, resorts often connect to one another, allowing skiers to S-turn from village to village — sometimes even to neighboring countries — all in the same day. Add in a vibrant après-ski culture plus chilly activities from tobogganing to skating to snow polo, and Switzerland’s largesse convinced us to give its slopes a try. Even better, we decided to ride the storybook Glacier Express from St. Moritz to Zermatt, a train trip that would allow us to try out two famous ski towns on one trip. Upon arrival at Zürich Airport, we haul our suitcases, laden with puffy ski clothes and layers, to nab our first train for the adventure. We’ve bought a Swiss Pass, a remarkable travel savings allowing children under 16 to ride free on their parent’s unlimited travel ticket throughout Switzerland. It also provides gratis admit-
Don’t know how to ski? The Swiss Ski Schools offer a program at 43 locations, guaranteeing enrolled students will learn to ski with ease down a blue slope (the easiest marker) in three days or receive a free repeat course.
tance to museums and transportation on boats and buses. With that magic ticket firmly in hand, we walk from the airport to the train station, find the platform for the next train to glamorous St. Moritz and take a seat. St. Moritz, famous for its celebrity guests, nevertheless imparts a sporty vibe. We snuggle into swanky Badrutt’s Palace, poised minutes from the foot of Corviglia, perhaps the region’s most famous ski mountain. Ideally located for whooshing home at day’s end, the hotel also lies close to St. Moritz’s famous lake, frozen in winter but thronged with warmly clad revelers. That’s where we attempt skijoring, a nervy sport where a muscular horse pulls a scrambling person on skis across the ice. I decide I’m happier under blankets on a horse-drawn carriage ride, a hot wine in hand, tromping along the snow-carpeted forest trails. Later, after a much-deserved, truffle-strewn (pizza-like) flammkuchen, I retire to the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski’s spa for a marmot oil massage, a time-honored Swiss tradition said to restore overused muscles. To wit, I return the following day, repaired and rewired, to redo my skijoring efforts with a modicum of success.
When it’s time to board the fabled Glacier Express to Zermatt, we’re sorry to leave St. Moritz. But once seated on the nostalgic-styled train, complete with panoramic windows, we’re ready for the next phase of our escapade. Called the “slowest fast train in the world,” the Glacier Express averages 22 miles an hour, chugging for nearly eight hours across Switzerland. Thankfully, it’s also famous for its cuisine, and along the way we sit at starched white-clothed tables, sipping Swiss libations and nibbling charcuterie. En route, the train passes through 91 tunnels, crosses 291 harrowing bridges, trundles out of snowcarpeted valleys and climbs myriad Toblerone-shaped peaks. From the windows we see cross-country skiers with groceries balanced on their backs, cows with bells, and children sledding. As we near Zermatt, our excitement grows. We disembark and drag our bags up the pedestrian main street, filled with après-skiers, St. Bernard dogs and romantic carriages. “Where is it?” says my daughter, furtively searching for the Matterhorn, disappointed it isn’t in sight. Suddenly it appears as if summoned, majestic and authentic, at the end of the street — just waiting to be skied. FEBRUARY 2019
INFO TO GO
Fly to Zürich or Geneva on Swiss International Air Lines to make quick train connections to all regions of Switzerland. You can purchase a Swiss Travel Pass for the trains online through RailEurope.com. Swiss Deluxe Hotels offers a collection of characteristic yet opulent hotels across Switzerland.
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kicking back | BERMUDA
Bermuda Beckons
Escape to the idyllic isle of beaches, beauty and sea breezes. BY RINA NEHDAR OCEAN HUES:
(Left to right) Trunk Island, stand-up paddle boarding at Fairmont Southampton beach, and colorful Bermuda waterfront homes PHOTOS: © RINA NEHDAR
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WHEN A FEW UNDERWATER volcanoes blew into the sky, a confetti of colors landed to form what became the 138 British islands of Bermuda. Or so it would seem when one looks around today at the pristine communities that spread from those explosions in the heart of the Atlantic Ocean, about 600 miles or a two-hour flight from most of the U.S. East Coast. It is the translucent blue of stained-glass ocean, the pale yellow of hanging fruit, the fiery orange of coral reef into which Caribbean settlers later dipped their paintbrushes to color their houses, bridges and buildings. Then they cropped their pants, of the same colors, to create their namesake shorts. Not to be outdone, Mother Nature continued to flash her hues above and below the mint-green tropical blanket she used to cover her island.
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You can best appreciate this land by bike or a walk on the historic Railroad Trail; the tracks are long gone, but the 18-mile disjointed route connecting the nine parishes of Bermuda still spans its length. The dirt path sometimes gives way to stairs and bridges as it slips through sapphire coves, canopies of juniper and ribbons of sea. Social Cycles will rent you a mountain bike and take you as far as you want to go. If you’d prefer to see the island on foot, a two- or three-hour walking tour with humorous and insightful British transplant Tim Rogers or his native wife, Mary, of Bermuda Lectures and Tours, offers a great way to explore one stop on the trail, Fort Scaur. The fort once protected the Bermuda Naval Dockyard from pirates and marauders with its hidden cannons.
INFO TO GO
Flights take a little more than two hours from the U.S. East Coast to L.F. Wade International Airport in St. George’s, Bermuda. Visitors cannot rent cars in Bermuda but can rent scooters or electric two-seat Twizy vehicles. Taxis are regulated by the government.
“Although nations kept discovering Bermuda when their ships sank around it, no one claimed it until some British colonists sank their ship sailing to America and decided to stay,” Rogers told us. He showed us one of the original gray, drab homes built by the British. Rogers described the labor entailed for building a home from this porous volcanic rock, which involved taking whole slabs from the earth, drying it for months and then curing it. This process sounds so complicated and taxing, it explains why it took so long for people to make a commitment to the island. Rogers also talked about the connection between methane hydrate and the Bermuda Triangle, and may have solved the mystery. Take a break from your tour with a picnic lunch served on a grassy plateau next to Fort Scaur. A mosaic of blue ocean, bobbing boats and swaying fronds greets you, while gentle winds cool your exploratory efforts. You can request delivery of picnic baskets full
of sandwiches and salads from various local restaurants like the exquisite one by Karsten Krivenko, head chef at Utopia, while Novel Tea may quench your thirst. These are the makings of a unique romantic excursion or a great way to relax with friends and colleagues. If you’d rather learn about Bermuda on the fly, Segway Tours of Bermuda operates at the Royal Naval Dockyard. Although the British Navy pulled out of the dockyard in the 1950s, visitors can watch the reenactment of historic battles around remaining garrisons and fortifications. After your war games, stop for craft beer, dinner or dessert in one of the specialty restaurants. Or shop for diamonds rivaling those found on the midnight ocean, blow your own glass souvenir or indulge your inner Gucci in one of the many high-end shops. If you’re staying in Hamilton and can tear yourself away from the six world-class golf courses on the island, the Hamilton Princess can arrange for Island Tour Centre
LODGING FAIRMONT SOUTHAMPTON Tee off at award-winning Turtle Hill Golf Club or visit the private beach to ride a stand-up paddle board and observe rainbow sea life clear to the bottom of the protected cove. 101 South Shore Road, Southampton $$$$ HAMILTON PRINCESS Enjoy a drink from the infinity pool bar while waving to friends sailing the harbor. Walk the
posh interior to enjoy the extensive art collection. A favorite of Mark Twain, who read his stories to fans here. 76 Pitts Bay Road, Hamilton $$$$ THE LOREN AT PINK BEACH European elegance meets chic Bermudan style in this new oceanfront boutique hotel. Each room has a private balcony to savor those ocean hues. Tucker’s Town $$$$
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ISLAND LIFE:
Dr. Ian Walker with Crooked Nose and Sally (left) and feeding his lemur friend (top right), and flamingos at Bermuda Aquarium and Zoo (bottom right) PHOTOS: © RINA NEHDAR
DINING MARCUS’ Created by Marcus Samuelsson of New York Red Rooster fame, the restaurant occupies a former ballroom where Bermuda high society mingled. Ocean views, an open kitchen and a central bar make for a fun, casual evening. Hamilton Princess, 76 Pitts Bay Road, Hamilton $$$$
to cruise you over the water on a yacht tour. Choose from whale-watching in the winter or a tour of famous homes and hideaways. In the summer catamarans take you to play on secluded beaches. Along the way, the tour company supplies an island favorite, the Dark and Stormy — much more fun to sip than the weather for which it’s named — as it steers you from shore to shore. Another wonderful area to explore is the Bermuda Aquarium and Zoo. According to Dr. Ian Walker, principal curator, only rescued animals live in the zoo. Dr. Walker shared this after coming back from administering first aid to an injured duck. Although some animals are born inside or come from other zoos, they are released back into their natural homes if they recover. A guided tour fills you with cocktail party trivia such as the fact only flamingos remain outdoors during a hurricane. They stand, single file, beside a tree from largest to smallest and rotate with the wind as it shifts direction. You can also meet Galápagos tortoises Crooked Nose and Sally, who are 100 and 50 years old, respectively. You’ll be happy to learn Shirley Temple rode Crooked Nose when she was 10, and Sally is finally old enough to get busy with her man. Just a short ferry ride from the zoo, the BAZ also owns the private, seven-acre Trunk Island, where zoologists hold summer camps for visiting children and locals. It’s also available to rent for conferences. In between the island above and the island below lies a three-mile system of caverns called the Crystal and Fantasy Caves. These formed about 2 million years ago. As ocean levels rose, much of the enclosures and surrounding stalagmites and
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stalactites became submerged. A couple of local boys found it when they lost their ball playing cricket. You can imagine their bravery as you descend into the once-dark caves. Today you can take stone stairs onto a pontoon bridge that rises and falls with the tide and share some dramatic Instagram selfies. Once causing tragedy for ancient shipwrecked sailors, the hidden reefs surrounding Bermuda offer passage into a kaleidoscopic wonder world for snorkelers and divers. If you stay at the Fairmont Southampton, a hotel shuttle can take you to its private beach to snorkel offshore through blue-tinted water, or book a dive trip through its on-site Dive Bermuda shop. A good location to revive your ocean skills is Southwest Breaker, which is like sinking into an aquarium with the payoff only 30 feet below the surface. Or explore one of those unfortunate wrecks, with arguably the best-preserved being The Hermes, a World War II U.S. Navy ship resting on a sandy floor only 70 feet underwater. As the sun loses its light, explore a middle world inhabited by those who cannot rest. Hear their stories in the port town of St. George’s. With rays of street lamps stabbing through drifting fog, visit graveyards with the team at Haunted History and watch as actors lament their fate. Then try not to scream as you accidentally bump into some of those restless spirits. Whether your own spirit is drawn to the multilayered landscape of Bermuda for a long weekend or an extended trip, arriving is like stepping out of a black-and-white world into a Technicolor tapestry. And nothing needs to explode to see it happen.
VILLAGE PANTRY After visiting the Bermuda Aquarium and Zoo, grab an organic bite at the outdoor patio. With plenty of gluten-free and paleo options, it offers a tasty way to stay healthy on your trip. 8 North Shore Road, Flatts Village $$$ WOODY’S SPORTS BAR This relaxing, local hangout serves one of the best fish sandwiches on the island. Order it on raisin bread, the Bermudan way. Only local fish is served, so the menu changes daily depending on what is caught. 1 Boaz Island, Somerset $
lgbtq+
Mykonos Rocks The Greek island lures visitors with amazing beaches, hotels and nightlife. BY MARK CHESNUT
ASK ANY LGBTQ+ GLOBETROTTER to name a top sun-andfun vacation spot in Europe, and Mykonos will likely appear near the top of the list. “Mykonos has always been a welcoming and nonjudgmental place,” said Keith Wein, owner, 127travel, an upscale travel agency that’s a division of Tzell Travel Group in New York City and Seattle. The reasons for the appeal are many, according to Wein, who sells the destination frequently and recently returned from his latest visit. “Mykonos has amazing beaches, beautiful sunsets, wonderful gay nightlife, exquisite restaurants, shopping and dance parties that go on all night long. You can make friends with gays from all over the world and have an experience that removes you from the stress of your everyday life.” Among the top beach choices is Super Paradise, a complex that includes a hotel and what Wein touts as the most party-oriented stretch of sand, complete with afternoon drag shows. A quieter alternative is Elia Beach. After a day of soaking in the sun, Wein said, “… every LGBTQ traveler should go to Jackie O bar at midnight and enjoy the nightlife scene as the waves crash over the sea wall out front.” LGBTQ+ travelers seeking comfortable accommodations can choose from hotels like the Myconian Ambassador Thalasso Spa, a member of Relais & Châteaux;
the Mykonos Grand, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World; and the San Giorgio Mykonos, offering an extensive program of meditation classes and workshops. The largest annual LGBTQ+ event, XLSIOR, takes place Aug. 21–28 this year, with large-scale parties and events that attract thousands of mostly gay, mostly young men from around Europe and beyond. But that doesn’t mean you have to be a party person to appreciate Mykonos, of course. “All kinds of LGBT travelers are attracted to Mykonos,” Wein said. “The bustling shops attract everyone. Of course, the young crowd will want the late-night parties and beautiful young single people. However, an older crowd will appreciate the beautiful hotels and beaches and restaurants. It’s possible to have a completely chill vacation in Mykonos, void of nightlife.”
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ISLAND ESCAPE: Colorful buildings and balconies near the sea (top), and Mykonos Grand, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World (bottom) PHOTOS: © LUCIANBOLCA DREAMSTIME.COM, © SMALL LUXURY HOTELS OF THE WORLD
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aiport update
Ready for Takeoff İstanbul New Airport aims to become the largest in the world. BY ERICH MARTIN İSTANBUL NEW AIRPORT opened at the end of October 2018. In the brief months it has been open, the airport garnered attention as having the potential to be the largest in the world. It can currently handle 90 million passengers annually. After all planned expansions, the airport will boast 200 million annual passengers. Under construction with the help of 200,000 workers since 2013, İstanbul New Airport encompasses more than 823 million square feet. The airport opened with one phase completed on the 95th anniversary of the founding of Turkey. The materials used in the construction would be enough to build 80 Eiffel Towers, all the while saving 30.7 tons of carbon dioxide every year in an effort to promote environmental sustainability. Although İstanbul New Airport is the newest airport, constructed on the European side of İstanbul, it looks to exceed its contemporaries in more ways than passenger volume. Retail and dining options continue to ramp up. By the time the airport is completed, it will feature 344,000 square feet of food and drink space and 592,000 square feet of retail space. Turkish Airlines — the sole airline operating at the airport until next month — began by serving seven destinations. Through March the airport will add 11 destinations, with many more coming in the future. The airport will function as a hub for Turkish Airlines and currently features two independently operable runways, immediately boosting its capabilities. The second phase of construction will include a third runway and two separate taxiways. The third phase will add another passenger terminal and will allow the airport to accommodate 30 million more passengers annually. The fourth phase will add yet another terminal and runway. Final construction is expected to wrap up by the end of 2028. In total, the airport will serve more than 300 destinations. On the world stage, İstanbul New Airport appears to be still carving out an identity for itself. It holds massive potential in terms of scale in all aspects. In order to attract local passengers, the airport’s parking lot is free of charge up to and throughout February. İGA, the organization behind the construction and operation of İstanbul New Airport, was formed in 2013 to construct and operate it, owning operation rights for 25 years.
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BIGGER AND BETTER:
İstanbul New Airport PHOTOS: © İGA
İSTANBUL NEW AIRPORT istanbulhavalimani.com/en
health
Partners in Care Make the most of your next doctor appointment. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN A VISIT WITH YOUR HEALTH CARE provider is a good time to share health concerns and ask questions. Preparing for your appointment helps you take an active role in your health and get the best possible care. Before your visit, jot down your questions and concerns. You may want to ask if you are due for any screening tests or vaccinations or if you should worry about your family medical history. You may wonder what is causing certain symptoms or whether you should keep taking a medication or pursue other treatment options. Bring a list of your current medication allergies to each doctor appointment. Your provider can compare your list with the one on file to make sure all allergies are known. This includes prescription and over-thecounter medications, vitamins and herbal supplements. Consider keeping your list of medication allergies on your phone so you can easily access it; you can also take a picture of the list for easy retrieval. If you have symptoms, record details before the visit. Describe your symptoms and when and where they appear and explain how long you have had them or if they have changed. Place your notes in your wallet or purse, save them to your phone or email them to your doctor. If you need support, invite a friend or family member to come with you. They can help you understand and remember what you need to know. Ask questions until you understand what your provider is explaining. You are not stupid if you ask questions. Well-informed patients who care about their health ask questions. Make sure you have your insurance card and a picture ID with you at
the time of your visit. Tell the office staff if your insurance or address has changed. What you do and how you feel affects your health. Things you should share with your health care provider include job changes; family changes such as the death of a loved one, divorce, adoption, acute illness in a family member and threats or acts of violence; new activities or sports; or planned trips outside of the United States in case you need vaccinations. Review your current health conditions and past medical history including surgeries or procedures. Tell your provider about new allergy symptoms and side effects from your medications. Ask about special instructions for the medications you take, such as interactions with other medications or food and what each medication is supposed to do. Be honest about your lifestyle habits. Your provider needs to know about all your habits to best treat you and will not judge you. Alcohol and drugs can interfere with medications and cause certain symptoms. Tobacco use puts you at risk for many health problems. Ask if you should make any lifestyle changes. If you have symptoms, ask which tests might identify the problem, when you can expect test results, the benefits and risks of the tests and treatment options. If your symptoms do not improve, should you call the provider, and when should you schedule a follow-up appointment? You may be referred to a specialist, have a test, take a new medication or schedule more appointments. Today, as patients take an active role in their health care, they are encouraged to partner with their health care team. All providers should practice shared decision making
with patients for their care. There are many options, and your condition may be managed in more than one way. Your provider will go over all options with you. The two of you will decide, based on your health care provider’s expertise and your goals and values. Ask how you can communicate with your health care provider such as by phone, voice mail or secure messaging. Notify your provider when you experience side effects from medication; have new, unexplained symptoms or worsening symptoms; receive new prescriptions from another provider; need test results; or have questions or concerns. Many providers participate in a health care portal where you can send a secure message to your health care team; see your lab work, tests and radiology results; see your appointments; and access your medical records 24/7. This transparency helps engage patients in their care. Many portals have apps to schedule future appointments, perform prescription refills, send reminders for appointments or to take a medication, and more. Some facilities offer Telehealth or secure Skype sick calls via the patient’s home computer, iPad or handheld device with the health care provider at the office. Research shows patients who have a good relationship with their health care team receive better care and are more satisfied. Patients and families who engage with their providers and ask good questions reduce the chance of mistakes, prevent unnecessary tests and avoid hospital stays. If you are not sure about the treatment options offered, do some research and get a second or even third opinion when needed.
The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.
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preview
Formed naturally of sandstone, more than 2,000 rock arches and windows punctuate the landscape of Arches National Park in Utah. New ones are in the process of formation all the time, thanks to the erosive action of wind, rain and snowmelt, and the cracking that occurs when water freezes in narrow clefts and fissures. Learn more about the park next month when you read Bucket List: Arches National Park, Moab Desert. PHOTO: Š JOSEMARIA TOSCANO - DREAMSTIME.COM
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