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ALBUQUERQUE p. 52 BELGRADE p. 58 ITALIAN DOLOMITES p. 62 KUALOA RANCH p. 66 MEXICO p. 68 NEW YORK CITY p. 60 SÃO PAULO p. 54 TAIPEI p. 56 TBILISI p. 46
AMERICA’S BEST Explore the stunning beauty of U.S. national parks. p. 72
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR ®
Exploring Ukraine: Kimberly on a trip to Kyiv PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER
A World of Caring
I
n September 2017 I visited Ukraine. While then it was a destination I didn’t know much about, my trip shifted my entire perspective and taught me so much about the people, the history and plans for the future. What was abundantly clear then was how much the people appreciated their freedom and how much excitement the country held for a bright future. Even the street art boldly proclaimed that message. During my visit, I stayed in Kyiv and Lviv and took a daytrip to Chernobyl. I have watched, devastated, as those places are destroyed by the Russian invasion. Tears spring to my eyes as I see video clips of refugees fleeing, among them people I know and befriended while in Ukraine. When I feel hopeless I cannot do more, I remember I can use the power of the word to tell people about my experiences and time there, spread the message and encourage others to help. I went back and read the article I wrote about Chernobyl after my visit, and the last line rings even truer now: “As we began the trip back to Kyiv to spend the next few days exploring the country, I was certain of one thing: A spirit of revolution is alive in Ukraine.”
Of course, I’ve also helped financially, and I would encourage others who can to do the same. Even when the fighting ends, the beautiful Ukrainian people need help settling in foreign new homes and rebuilding their country. Since it can be hard to suss out the best places to donate and to assure funds are properly appropriated, here are a few recommendations on ways you can help: Bstrong in partnership with Global Empowerment Mission at bethenny.com/bstrong: Among the first organizations on the front lines providing hygiene kits for refugees, 100 percent of the proceeds go to the effort. Steve Glenn and Executive Travel (executivetravel .com) at OperationSafeHarborUkraine.com: This initiative launched to provide 200 refugees, or 50 families, with hotel accommodations in Warsaw and has since been able to double efforts thanks to donations. CORE, Sean Penn’s organization, at coreresponse .org: Assisting with the refugee crisis in Poland and Romania, with a special focus on women and children Direct Relief at directrelief.org: Delivering medical aid to those affected, thus far bringing 294 shipments of requested medical aid Support cruise lines like Holland America Line in the future, as the cruise line is currently using one of its ships to help house refugees. Please feel free to contact me at kim@global travelerusa.com with other suggestions or stories you’d like us to share. And, importantly, we must keep traveling and spreading the word and sharing cultures of peoples around the world so we can all appreciate, understand and love each other better and more deeply. With that sense of resilience with us, we jet around the world in this issue to Taipei; Belgrade, Serbia; U.S. national parks; Tbilisi, Georgia; the Italian Dolomites; Mexico; São Paulo; New York City; Albuquerque, New Mexico; and Hawai’i’s Kualoa Ranch.
EDITORIAL Editor In Chief Kimberly Krol Inlander kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director Katie Skrzek katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor Janice Hecht jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor Patricia Vanikiotis patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator Mary Melnick mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor Aoife O’Riordan aoife.oriordan@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director Tracey Cullen tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer Christopher P. Ottaunick christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor Vance Piccin
COLUMNISTS Jack Guy Kelly Magyarics WRITERS Kristy Alpert Susan Barnes Ron Bernthal Mark Chesnut Elyse Glickman Sharon King Hoge
Eugenia Lazaris Tim Leffel Karin Leperi Katie McElveen Johnny Motley Richard Newton Irene Rawlings Kathy Rodeghier Jan Schroder Brandon Schultz Terry Ward
For complete bios visit globaltravelerusa.com
CIRCULATION Special Projects Manager John Wroblewski Specialist Louie Atsaves Managers Jayhawk Evans, Mark P. Ford, Teresa Jackson, Anthony “Scraps” Dimera Circulation Director Michele Shannon Circulation Manager Anna Pudzianowski Research Consultant Sharon Sterne ADVISORY BOARD Chairman Michael Donahue COO Michael Kiely President Carlos Cappuccio Deputy Vice President Aviation Edward Jefferson Deputy Vice President Accommodations Stephen Doherty Deputy Director Destinations Wayne Tallman Vice President Special Events/Photography Christopher Ottaunick Secretary Mark Lane Research Director Frank LoVerme Director of Technology Bob Hancock Director of Digital Advancement Jared Torgan Vice President of Corporate Giving Jim Bolger Director of Emerging Markets & New Business Frank Wood
GENERAL COUNSEL Thomas F. Goldman CONTACT US General Inquiries/Issue Requests/Reprints info@globaltravelerusa.com Subscriptions tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com
Kimberly Krol Inlander Editor in Chief
As of publication, the destinations and venues mentioned in this issue were planning to reopen or are currently operating, but many may have restrictions or limitations in place to address current public health concerns. Always check in advance to confirm current requirements and restrictions.
Public Relations kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Letters to the Editor letters@globaltravelerusa.com Global Traveler is published monthly by FXExpress Publications, Inc., 309 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067. The U.S. subscription rate is $42 for one year, $79.95 for two years, $121.95 for three years. Postmaster: Please send changes of address to Global Traveler, 309 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067
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LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER ®
Celebrate Travel
H
appy to say New York is back! I recently enjoyed an overnight stay at The Draper in Manhattan, part of the Ascend Collection of hotels and located close to some of my favorite places (like Keen’s Steakhouse and the Empire State Building) and walkable to the rest of Midtown. I made a point to walk from the property on East 36th Street to Gallagher’s Steakhouse on West 52nd, where I met a client for drinks at the cozy bar. I then headed to dinner at Estiatorio Milos on West 55th. I always leave funny little comments when I book through OpenTable — at Milos I said, “A great table for great people.” When I New York, New York: checked in for dinner, the hostess quoted Francis enjoying the view at The Draper in Manhattan me and laughed … and we did have a PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER great table. After dinner, I walked back through Times Square, and I am pleased We have been busy securing our award venues for to say everything, including the crowds, seemed back to the balance of the year. Please mark your calendar normal. Although I did not see the Naked Cowboy, I for June 7, 2022, when we present the Global Travdid see Superman and Elmo. eler Leisure Lifestyle Awards and WhereverFamily The following week I connected with wonderful Wherever Awards at The Lotos Club, New York, and clients and old friends in Chicago. I stayed at The Aug. 16, 2022, for The Trazees Awards, voted by Trazee Langham, where I entertained friends at The Langham Travel readers, at University Club Atop Symphony Club lounge. It felt odd to sit in the lounge and look Towers, San Diego. Get your suit pressed and bring out directly at the building where I worked when I started your finest to join us as we celebrate the best. my career. Suite 2410 of the 1 E. Wacker Drive building I cannot end my letter without addressing the invastared right at me; years ago my office faced out over sion of Ukraine, which absolutely disgusts me. I want to the river to where I now sat at The Langham. I have thank Poland and the Polish people for going beyond to shout out to Christal in the lounge, who has a great anyone’s expectations to help and take in Ukrainians sense of humor and took excellent care of me, making it unjustly forced from their homes by Russia. Please rea real clublike experience. Look for a GT Tested review member the Red Cross always stands ready to help and of The Langham and The Draper in a subsequent issue. often arrives first on the scene with much-needed supI was impressed with the number of travelers at plies and medical support. During 9/11, the American Chicago O’Hare and the seamless flow through the Red Cross immediately showed up at the World Trade airport. We enjoyed a terrific meeting with the team Center with protective gear, shovels and whatever first at the Chicago Department of Aviation, who updated responders needed. us on new developments such as the family lounge at Keep traveling, which remains the best form of O’Hare and the Tallboy Taco concession in Central diplomacy. Market at Midway Airport … just the tip of the iceberg of the positive improvements. We also stopped at The Peninsula Chicago to meet our friends there. The Peninsula boasts a beautiful art exhibit supporting tenured African-American artists plus an installation by local Chicago artist Bob Faust Francis X. Gallagher specially made for the exhibit. All works are for sale, Publisher and CEO and one already found a new home. fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com
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Full Speed Ahead O’Hare International Airport celebrates the completion of its modernization program, among other exciting developments. DESPITE THE SUBSTANTIAL impact of the pandemic on the aviation industry, Chicago is excited about the future of air travel and is working just as hard as before to invest in its airport infrastructure. The Chicago Department of Aviation (CDA) recently joined government officials and airline
executives at O’Hare International Airport to celebrate the completion of the O’Hare Modernization Program, or OMP. This concludes the 16-year, $6 billion investment that transforms the airfield into a modern configuration, reduces delays and paves the way for future terminal redevelopment.
It’s a tremendous achievement for the airport and one of the largest runway reconfiguration projects in the world. The development incorporated the construction of four new runways, the extensions to two existing runways, the building of two new airport traffic control towers and the relocation of numerous facilities at O’Hare International Airport. The most recent project extends Runway 9R-27L by approximately 3,290 feet to make it 11,260 feet and the second-longest runway on the O’Hare airfield. Since the beginning of OMP, national airspace system impact delays attributable to O’Hare reduced by 64 percent. Further the investment led to the creation of tens of thousands of jobs and work for diverse businesses of all sizes. The completed runway reconfiguration also offers a more balanced airfield with three runways on the north airfield, three on the south airfield and two crosswind runways. This gives the airport more options in the airport’s constructive dialogue with regional leaders to ensure no community takes the brunt of runway noise. To commemorate the accomplishment, a set of murals were painted by teens at a program held with the Chicago Park District as part of First Lady Amy Eshleman’s My CHI. My Future program. The free summer series connected Chicago’s youth with safe and engaging spaces throughout 15 communities across the south and west sides and featured activities, games, food and more. The murals will go on display at O’Hare. These final phases of OMP are part of the O’Hare 21 capital program — Chicago’s vision for a modern airport that will be an efficient and accessible international gateway to the world and to Chicago. Through this $8.5 billion investment, O’Hare will be transformed from curb to gate and meet the needs of the traveling public through the 21st century and beyond.
More information on O’Hare 21 is available at ord21.com.
May 2022
CONTENTS
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features
on the cover globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99
May 2022
ALBUQUERQUE p. 52 BELGRADE p. 58 ITALIAN DOLOMITES p. 62 KUALOA RANCH p. 66 MEXICO p. 68 NEW YORK CITY p. 60 SÃO PAULO p. 54 TAIPEI p. 56 TBILISI p. 46
AMERICA’S BEST Explore the stunning beauty of U.S. national parks. p. 72
34
A Night to Remember Global Traveler revisits Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills.
36
A Change of Course Airlines pursue innovation in a post-pandemic return to in-flight catering.
40 COVER PHOTO: CANYONLAND NATIONAL PARK PHOTO: © PROCHASSON FREDERIC | DREAMSTIME.COM
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business destinations 46
Destination One: Tbilisi Tbilisi beckons with an old-meetsnew, East-meets-West vibe.
52
Stateside: Albuquerque Albuquerque embraces a colorful past and a bright future.
54
MICE: São Paulo Choose São Paulo for stylish meetings and events.
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9–5: Taipei Elevate client meetings as you drink in the history and hospitality of Taipei.
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After 5: Belgrade Party at Belgrade’s best bars and clubs.
Hassle-free flying. It’s about time.
Don’t you love how navigating in and out of Ontario International Airport is a breeze with quick access and easy parking? Isn’t it refreshing how great it is once you’re in the airport – shorter lines, room to spread out, happy people to help you? At ONT you can leave the stress of other Southern California airports behind because faster is always better when it comes to your airport. So let Global Traveler know by voting for ONT for: • Best Airport in North America • Best Airport Staff • Best Airport Parking • Fastest Growing U.S. Airport
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CONTENTS
in every issue 10 14 16 20
Mail Call News Reviews One on One St. Regis Hotels & Resorts Technology Wine & Spirits Spas Golf Chefs Cruising Diversity Airport Update Ecotourism Sports Preview
21 24 26 28 30 32 74 76 77 80 82
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leisure destinations 60
Neighborhoods: New York City New York City shows off its new attractions and hotels.
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Friends & Family: Italian Dolomites Ski, hike and eat your way through Italy’s Dolomites.
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Tours: Kualoa Ranch Pursue your own pace of activity at Kualoa Ranch. Kicking Back: Mexico Find your bliss among Mexico’s bounty of beach towns.
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Bucket List: U.S. National Parks Explore the stunning beauty of U.S. national parks.
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Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2022 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
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L I V E A Q U A B E A C H R E S O R T P U N TA C A N A
I N D U LG E YO U R S EN S ES W I T H L I V E AQ UA , LU X U RY L I F EST Y L E H OT EL S W I T H SO PH I ST I CAT ED A N D S ED U CT I V E AT M O S PH ER ES T H AT TO U C H T H E S EN S ES W I T H A R O M AS, T E X T U R ES, F L AVO R S, SO U N D S, C O LO R S A N D L I G H T.
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Q&A WITH YASSER OGANDO, ADVERTISING AND PRODUCTION MANAGER I typically consider a trip a vacation if it involves a tropical climate and lots of beach time. However, my recent travels led me to want more educational and participatory experiences that do not exclude big cities and easily fit into my solo travel plans. With this in mind, and from your experience, what do you consider the best U.S. city for solo female travel? Tell us. Email us at letters@globaltravelerusa.com
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Q&A TIME In our March 2022 issue we noted: With the anticipated return to international travel, many people once again plan special trips they postponed during the pandemic. Janice Hecht, senior editor, dreams of returning to Ireland and seeing Scotland for the first time. Are you planning to visit a bucket-list destination or celebrate a milestone by traveling abroad this year? A few readers wrote in: I have always wanted to go on a National Geographic Expeditions trip to Antarctica.
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My husband and I planned a trip to Thailand for late summer. It’s been on our bucket list for several years, and we now set our sights specifically on Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket. I love exploring the history of every destination I visit, and Bangkok boasts a rich history with many sites for tourists. My husband looks forward to visiting Chiang Mai to see the beautiful rice fields and hike Doi Inthanon. I may not join him on the hike, depending on the strenuous demands of the trek, but I expect him to take stunning images of the view from the summit. We both look forward to trying the cuisines of each city, as we love Thai food and want to finally enjoy the authentic dishes. LEIGH WINTER, VIA EMAIL
CONTACT GT DO YOU HAVE A STORY TO SHARE? THOUGHTS ON A RECENT GT ARTICLE? Email: letters@globaltravelerusa.com Write: Letters to the Editor 309 Floral Vale Blvd. Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.
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Something about the remoteness of Antarctica has always appealed to me, and I have extensively researched the cruise. After talking with friends, they convinced me to book the trip this year. I am beyond excited to finally see in person what I have only seen in photos and movies for years. I’m probably most excited to view the icebergs and wildlife. I’m certain no photograph can compare to seeing it up close. To be able to see penguins and whales will also be part of the fun, of course.
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ONE AT PALM JUMEIRAH, DORCHESTER COLLECTION, DUBAI NOW OPEN In the Feb. 23 issue of eFlyer, we told readers about the opening of One at Palm Jumeirah, Dorchester Collection, Dubai. We asked: Do you have an upcoming trip planned for Dubai? One reader shared feedback. Funnily enough, when I first read the article on this new property opening in Dubai, I had just booked my plane ticket to Dubai this fall! Reading about One at Palm Jumeirah, Dorchester Collection, Dubai, made me seriously consider booking a stay there, as it not only looks luxurious but also provides great amenities I often look for when choosing a hotel.
INDIANAPOLIS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT ARTS PROGRAM TO HIGHLIGHT BLACK EXPERIENCES In the Feb. 16 issue of eFlyer, we told readers about Indianapolis International Airport’s latest art exhibition displaying works by Black artists. We asked: Do you think local art should be displayed in more airports across the country? One reader shared this response: Because each airport is inextricably tied
to the area in which it operates, I strongly believe showcasing what makes the region special is important. So many people come through airports every day, many not from the area. Displays of art and other features that represent the surrounding area or city give visitors a glimpse of the region even if they never leave the terminal. I loved reading how Indianapolis International Airport highlights Black experiences. I looked up images of the pieces on display, and they took my breath away. I can
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May 2011
ABU DHABI
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FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY
Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.
I
n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind and soul in is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste.
Art of Healing
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INFO TO GO
A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.
WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from visiting Nashville to spending an evening in an arcade to enjoying a few days in Sarasota. globaltravelerusa.com/blog
ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE
May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35
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In our January/February 2022 issue, we accidentally misspelled the name of contributor Jarone Ashkenazi. Our apologies for the oversight.
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NEWS, DEALS AND REWARDS TAP Air Portugal Moves to JFK Terminal 1
Smithsonian Journeys, the travel program of the Smithsonian Institution, announced its partnership with Ponant, a leader in small-ship expeditions, to bring an exclusive list of sailings for 2023. A total of 21 departures with several new itineraries will include trips around the Arabian Coast, the Mediterranean, the St. Lawrence River and Northern Africa. Each sailing features notable experiences and acclaimed experts to allow guests to dive deeper into a destination’s culture, language, cuisine, history and wildlife. With resources dating back 175 years, Smithsonian will incorporate its global knowledge on board. Many voyages will involve Smithsonian Journeys Experts, from scientists to archaeologists and anthropologists to historians. Additionally, Ponant will sail to ports of call not previously visited, such as Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island; and Ploče, Croatia. Itineraries include a nine-day trip around the Arabian Coast from Dubai to Muscat; a 16-day journey from Indonesia to Kimberly, Australia; and an eight-day circumnavigation of Sicily, exploring its ancient history. _______ ponant.com smithsonianjourneys.org
The Brix, Autograph Collection Opens in Trinidad With its opening in Port of Spain, The Brix, Autograph Collection brings elevated hospitality to Trinidad. Sugar played a significant role in the cultural and financial development of Trinidad and Tobago, and the hotel integrates that history into its elements, from the modern architecture to the property’s name, which
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stems from the chemical measurement of sugar in solution. The 161 guestrooms and suites weave in warm tones and local artwork to showcase the island’s rich culture, while The Exchange restaurant, bar and lounge serves a menu inspired by local cuisine and international flavors. At The Sugar High Rooftop Lounge tapas and cocktails accompany stunning views. With a South Beach-inspired pool deck complete with cabanas and seating, The Brix invites guests to enjoy the amenities plus various sites viewable from the property. The hotel lies minutes from Royal Botanical Gardens, the Magnificent Seven buildings and Emperor Valley Zoo. _______ thebrixtrinidad.com
flytap.com
Radisson Debuts in Madagascar Radisson Hotel Group makes its Madagascar debut with Radisson Blu Hotel, Antananarivo Waterfront; Radisson Hotel Antananarivo Waterfront; and Radisson Serviced Apartments Antananarivo City Center. All three lie within the historic city, a short trip from the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga, the country’s only cultural UNESCO site. Radisson Blu Hotel, Antananarivo Waterfront features 168 modern guestrooms and suites filled with natural light and offering waterfront views. On-site venues include The Larder and the Fire Lake Restaurant & Bar, serving delicious dishes centered around grilled meat; The Lobby Coffee & Bar, offering hot drinks and cocktails; and an outdoor rooftop pool. Guests wanting a more intimate stay with lake and garden views may opt for Radisson Hotel Antananarivo Waterfront, a 30-room boutique hotel blending Scandinavian influences with Madagascan design elements. Tamboho Restaurant highlights local and international dishes through fresh, seasonal ingredients. Weekly live jazz performances and a garden lounge also grace the property. The Radisson Serviced Apartments Antananarivo City Center proves ideal for guests traveling for business or an extended stay. Studios and apartments feature a mini fridge, kitchenette and flat-screen TV. Guests can savor French and Asian fusion cuisine at SOHO Restaurant and cocktails or afternoon tea at SOHO Rooftop Lounge. The rooftop also hosts weekly live music and DJ sets. _______ radissonhotels.com
PHOTOS: © DARRYL BROOKS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © THE BRIX, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION
Ponant and Smithsonian Journeys Announce 2023 Expeditions
As of mid-February, TAP Air Portugal changed terminals at New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport. The move from Terminal 5 to Terminal 1 comes with added flights to and from the United States. TAP resumed all U.S. flights in November 2021. From the United States, TAP Air Portugal flies non-stop to Lisbon (LIS) from multiple locations, including New York (JFK), seven flights a week for summer 2022; Newark (EWR), 14 flights a week; Boston (BOS), six flights a week; Miami (MIA), five flights a week; Washington/Dulles (IAD), five flights a week; Chicago (ORD), three flights a week; and San Francisco (SFO), three flights a week. TAP will also operate six weekly flights from Newark to Porto (OPO) in summer 2022. In addition, the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey is working with a consortium of sponsors to build a new, 2.4-million-square-foot international terminal, expected to create the largest terminal at JFK to date. _______
Dromoland Castle Hosts Women’s Irish Open Dromoland Castle will host the 2022 Women’s Irish Open on its 18-hole Championship Course Sept. 22–25. This return of the Ladies European Tour marks the first women’s professional golf competition in the Republic of Ireland since 2012. Dromoland Castle’s 18-hole course features more than 6,800 yards of greenery. Designed by Ron Kirby and JB Carr, the par-72 championship course consists of gentle hills, ancient trees and unexpected water hazards. In preparation for this year’s championship, the course and accompanying practice facilities are receiving a €2 million upgrade. _______ dromoland.ie
Scenic Cruise’s 2023/2024 Antarctica Offer
Star Clippers Booking Costa Rica Sailings Star Clippers is now taking bookings for sailings on the cruise line’s new Costa Rica itineraries for the winter 2022/2023 and 2023/2024 seasons. Due to popular demand, Star Clippers will offer two different eight-day itineraries to Costa Rica. The itineraries will take guests through Costa Rican towns as well as ports in Nicaragua and Panama, depending on the itinerary. Guests will also have the chance to explore the port town of Quepos in Costa Rica, Manual Antonio National Park and the beaches on Isla Tortuga. In San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, guests can surf the waves and take in the Mirador del Cristo de la Misericordia, one of the largest statues of Jesus in the world. _______ starclippers.com
PHOTOS: © DIMARIK16 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © BELMOND
Maroma, A Belmond Hotel, Riviera Maya Set to Reopen Belmond recently announced its plans to restore the Mexican beach retreat Maroma. Maroma, A Belmond Hotel, Riviera Maya sits between 200 acres of tropical jungle and the white sands of eastern Mexico. The property, slated to reopen May 25, 2023, includes several projects to further elevate the hotel. The natural beauty of the surrounding region combined with ancient healing rituals will guide the restoration of the 72 rooms, suites and villas. Internationally acclaimed designer Tara Bernerd and her team will restore the property, utilizing the Sacred Geometry of Maya masons to guide the redesign and layout. Bernerd aims at creating a reimagined hotel that honors Mexican artisanal traditions while emphasizing authentic craftmanship and local materials. _______ belmond.com
Upon seeing a 100 percent increase in year-over-year bookings to Antarctica on board its ultra-luxury Discovery Yacht Scenic Eclipse, Scenic unveiled its full 2023/2024 Antarctica and South America Voyages & Land Journeys, with the chance to save up to 20 percent on bookings. Guests booking and paying in full for their cruise 12 months prior to departure will save up to 20 percent on the fare with Scenic’s Super Earlybird offer. This offer applies to all sailings in 2023/2024. To learn more about Scenic’s sailings or to book a cruise, call 844 788 7985 or email info@scenicusa.com _______ scenicusa.com
The Chatwal’s Exclusive Work-from-Home Offer The Chatwal, located in New York’s Theater District, launched an exclusive work-from-home offer for guests looking for a change of scenery. Valid through Sept. 5, the offer includes 10 percent off a two-night minimum stay, Sunday through Wednesday. Guests will also enjoy daily lunch from The Lambs Club delivered to their rooms, complimentary daily butler services, complimentary WiFi and daily housekeeping services upon request. Room rates start at $495 before discount. _______ thechatwalny.com
Want more news on the go? Sign up for GT’s eFlyer USA newsletter. Global Traveler’s weekly newsletter keeps you up to date, bringing news, deals and reviews right to your inbox every Wednesday. Sign up at globaltravelerusa.com/newsletter. MAY 2022 globaltravelerusa.com
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LIVE AQUA SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE URBAN RESORT
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
GUEST QUARTERS: Our room could accommodate two to three guests, but for comfort I recommend keeping it to two. The hotel left us a welcome gift of a bottle of red wine and a plate of strawberries with chocolate, all perfectly fresh. The staff truly thought about every detail.
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The well-organized bathroom featured two sinks; a bathtub for a relaxing soak; a separate, private shower; and a door leading to the toilet. Our room included a TV, a record player and a selection of vinyl to play, an espresso machine with capsules of coffee and tea, and a mini fridge stocked with basics you might want in the middle of the night. When you book a room, consider requesting one with a view of the countryside. SERVICES/AMENITIES: I was impressed by the number of services and amenities I could access, starting with the wellness center — more than properly equipped, extra clean and with a touch of street art on the walls. The pool area with a bar offered a comfortable space perfect for a drink before any outside plans; the views and climatized pool were delightful. You must pamper yourself at Feel Urban Harmony Spa, which takes guests to another level of relaxation with a private sauna. My brother needed the laundry service for a shirt, and the fast turnaround impressed us; we thought it would take longer. REVIEWED BY Mariana Zenizo
LIVE AQUA SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE URBAN RESORT Calz. de la Presa 85 Zona Centro 37700 San Miguel de Allende Mexico tel 52 415 150 2300 liveaqua.com
PHOTO: © LIVE AQUA SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE URBAN RESORT
ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: After hitting the highway early in the morning and driving for three calm hours from Mexico City, we arrived in the beautiful town of San Miguel de Allende. Through the stretch of small streets we found our way to the hotel; and let me tell you, even though it’s beautiful from the outside, we were not ready for what awaited on the inside. As we entered the hotel, we noticed big, beautiful open places, gardens, art, architecture and lots of perfect spots for pictures. In the lobby we didn’t even wait a minute before a kind woman approached us and took care of us while we enjoyed a refresher; this proved one of the fastest and most comfortable check-ins I’ve witnessed, granting access to our room earlier than expected. She gave us important information about the services, amenities and sanitary regulations so we could enjoy a safe but fun stay, because protecting ourselves and others remains important.
The hotel is 100 percent dog-friendly, a wonderful characteristic. I will bring my dog with me next time. -------------------------Just an eight-minute walk from the hotel you’ll find the beautiful San Miguel Patio Decor gallery, which includes mini cafés and restaurants for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The art, the food and the coffee will delight you. -------------------------I found the pillow menu perfect for me; since I have neck problems, I consulted the menu and chose the right pillow for a good sleep. I didn’t know how important this detail was until I stayed at Live Aqua.
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CABANA ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: Since you’ll be taking your accommodations on the road in the form of a customized van, you will enjoy a wonderful pre-arrival process from home that allows you to curate your experience with the Cabana app. You can choose a pick-up location (currently Los Angeles or Seattle) and select how much or little assistance you want with the onboard amenities list. Once everything is confirmed, you eagerly await trip time. On trip day, you arrive at the pick-up location with your van number in hand and use your Cabana app to access your van, where you’ll find your keys and embark on your adventure-filled journey.
PHOTOS: © MUQU JAVAD @MUQU_J, © LUNA ESPARAZA @WOMANINMOTION
GUEST QUARTERS: Your luxury RV comes with all the comforts you might not expect if you’ve never been on such an adventure. You might expect compact quarters, but you’ll find all the comforts you’ll need on your trip. The standard facilities include a shower (with hot water), toilet, a queen-sized bed, linens, towels and toiletries (so you can pack light), coffee and a kettle. SERVICES/AMENITIES: Cabana offers a truly customizable experience. Regardless of your other selections, you will enjoy WiFi (with hotspot), a 24-inch TV, fridge for the essentials, plenty of USB ports and power outlets, heater, ceiling fan, a stand-in shower and bathroom. We made the best use of our heater since we traveled in the winter. In winter, Cabana will automatically provide tire chains should you need them. Make your experience easier with the following: Cabana offers Concierge to take care of your entire trip with services like making reservations at your overnight spots and mapping them out and creating an itinerary with recommended breakfast spots, sights of interest and more. You can choose from a selection of add-ons; for example, reduce your packing by adding a full kitchen with basic dishes including an electric kettle, a pot
TOP TAKEAWAYS: Cabana offers the perfect recreational vehicle experience for those who have put off the experience for fear of driving an oversized vehicle. -------------------------Cabana’s team stays with you the whole way. If anything comes up, its team is just a click away through the app. -------------------------Starting January 2022, Cabana began offering one-way trips, either from Seattle or Los Angeles pick-up locations.
and pan and full sink. Pups are also welcome on this journey … just add the Dog Kit.
CABANA cabana.life
REVIEWED BY Maria Angeles
MAY 2022 globaltravelerusa.com
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CASEY KEY RESORTS - BEACHFRONT
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
GUEST QUARTERS: The resort recently renovated the rooms of the beachfront properties. In addition to having my own designated beach chairs and umbrella just outside my door, the influence of the beach continued in the décor and layout of the room. The bed sat in the center, facing the French doors so that, as the sun set, lying on the bed entailed a bask in the golden light. The back wall featured black metal wall lamps as well as a wooden surfboard sitting behind the bed, positioned horizon-
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tally with the cursive “Surf ” scrawled on the front. The room incorporated neutral tones like whites, creams and tans to draw some of the earthy tones of the beach into the room. In addition to a spacious closet, microwave, WiFi, smart television and mini fridge, the bathroom further elevated the room and was, in my opinion, a highlight of the stay. The mirror had a light-up option to provide natural lighting for makeup and hair styling. The standing shower featured intricate tile flooring with a sleek glass wall and a built-in shelf on the far wall. SERVICES/AMENITIES: The beachfront resort lies just five miles down the road from the mainland resort, and guests can take advantage of its many amenities. While the beachfront properties come with private beach chairs and direct access to the beach, additional amenities at the mainland property include a resort pool and tiki bar, which serves refreshments Thursdays–Sundays. Guests can also enjoy their in-room Keurig coffee machine. Those wanting an escape to the quiet Gulf will find muchneeded respite at this resort. Casey Key Resorts - Beachfront blends simplicity with the beach to create a calming ambience. REVIEWED BY Aoife O’Riordan
CASEY KEY RESORTS BEACHFRONT 221 Casey Key Road Venice, FL 34275 tel 941 966 2121 caseykeybeachfront resort.com
PHOTO: © AOIFE O’RIORDAN
ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: I planned a trip to Sarasota to visit some co-workers in late February and arrived at Casey Key Resorts Beachfront in the early evening after driving all day. Situated on a narrow road lined with vacation homes, rentals and cottages, I found Casey Key Resorts - Beachfront tucked in between, with clean white walls and a designated parking space for guests. The resort lies on the same stretch of road that trails through the gorgeous beach homes of Siesta Key. This keyless resort sent me an email with a code to enter my room. Each door exits to the outside for optimal enjoyment of the Florida sun and Gulf breeze; and upon walking around the corner to my room (Room 7), I suddenly faced the blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico and the white sands of the beach. My doors opened right up to the beach, facing the setting sun.
Sitting just steps from the beach, few other resorts can boast having the Gulf of Mexico on their doorstep with a private view of the waters. -------------------------At night, the resort is quiet and allows guests to fully enjoy the solitude and peacefulness of the beach. Despite the resort sitting near other resorts and vacation properties, the area is quite calm. -------------------------Recently renovated from top to bottom
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AC HOTEL BY MARRIOTT MIAMI BRICKELL ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: My colleague and I arrived earlier than normal check-in time, so I didn’t expect the room to be ready for us. However, the staff was polite and offered to keep my luggage while we headed out to a lunch meeting. When we returned later that afternoon, the room was ready and I checked in with no issues. One thing that stood out was the AC Hotel and The Element hotel shared a lobby on the sixth floor, making the floor entrance an elite experience with a hallway leading to separated elevators.
PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT, © CHRISTYN PEK
GUEST QUARTERS: The room was everything I imagined from the photographs online — modern and clean with lots of light and open space. With recent updated innovations such as tap key entries, I felt safe and secure in my 14th-floor room. Each room included a full-sized desk, making it comfortable to work from my room. My favorite part of the room was the bathroom with full mirror lighting and an open glass shower with a rainfall head complemented with high-end shampoo and conditioner. The room also had a mini fridge to store leftovers plus plenty of space to hang clothing and store shoes and luggage. SERVICES/AMENITIES: This inner-city hotel features a well-equipped gym located on the top floor; a refreshing rooftop pool overlooking the city with several shaded cabanas; fine dining done right with a glorious bar; and complimentary breakfast with a staffed crêpe bar, open until 10 a.m. But that’s not all! The hotel also offers a gorgeous rooftop known as Rosa Sky, open to the public, by night club owner Alan Roth and creative director Jasmine Viana. At Rosa Sky, I exited the elevator doors to a breathtaking view and into the life of a party with great cocktails
TOP TAKEAWAYS: AC Hotel by Marriott Miami Brickell sits in a centralized location in downtown Brickell near the business district, making it convenient for business travelers to attend meetings or hop on the freeway to commute to Doral or Fort Lauderdale. -------------------------Only two blocks from great shopping at Brickell city center, surrounded by fine dining and nightlife
and live DJs. This proved a fun way to end my workday without venturing far. REVIEWED BY Christyn Pek
AC HOTEL BY MARRIOTT MIAMI BRICKELL 115 S.W. 8th St. Miami, FL 33130 tel 786 628 1500 marriott.com
MAY 2022 globaltravelerusa.com
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ONE ON ONE
George Fleck Vice president and global brand leader, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts
THE BASICS Name: George Fleck Title: Vice president and global brand leader, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts Company, city: Marriott International; New York City First job: Bellman at Marina del Rey Marriott Where to next: Mallorca, where we are renovating The St. Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort A LITTLE BIT MORE What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? If only I could be lucky enough to have Keanu Reeves play me! He has timeless appeal and is complex but also down-to-earth. What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? An airline pilot — I
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love aviation. Airplanes always fascinated me, and as a kid I thought pilots had the coolest jobs. What is your favorite book, movie or television show? The Talented Mr. Ripley. I loved the portrayal of the glamorous 1950s Italian and New York City lifestyles. The story is amazing, and it always makes me think of what it would be like to have visited our St. Regis hotels in Italy during that era. What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? I’d say Truman Capote, as I’d love to learn more about the stories he wrote and the fascinating people he surrounded himself with. We would have to end the evening with a nightcap at King Cole Bar in The St. Regis New York. THE BUSINESS What is your most recent project, and what
AS A TRAVELER Tell us about a travel nightmare: This is more a snafu as opposed to a nightmare, as the staff handled the situation graciously. My All Nippon Airways flight diverted to Newark (EWR) instead of New York (JFK). However, ANA did not have crews at EWR, so we had to wait it out and then fly the extremely short flight to JFK. All the while, I was thinking about how my apartment at the time was actually closer to Newark! Share a comical travel experience: I love gummy bears — especially Haribo. Every time I check into a St. Regis, gummy bears appear. What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? I’m an airline aficionado stuck in a hotelier’s body, so my answer is definitely planes. Flying can be really beautiful. What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? It’s when someone recognizes you and remembers you beyond information logged in a system. There is genuine care and discretion. The butler team at The St. Regis Punta Mita remembers how I like my coffee, and the service feels natural. At The St. Regis Cairo, the hotel organized a tour of the Forever Is Now art installation for me with a professor and Egyptologist — it was the most insightful tour I’ve taken. It’s about turning the ordinary into the extraordinary.
PHOTO: © ST. REGIS HOTELS & RESORTS
was the inspiration behind it? During the pandemic, we paused experiential events. In December 2021 we got back to it with the St. Regis World Snow Polo Championships at The St. Regis Aspen. It made us optimistic for the future and excited to have people gather and celebrate together again with St. Regis. We are also gearing up to open our milestone 50th St. Regis property, with incredible growth specifically in our resort portfolio. We’ve signed on for The St. Regis London, in the heart of Mayfair, and we are focused on the openings of properties in Chicago and Kanai, Mexico. What is your favorite aspect of the job? I’ve been in hospitality for more than 25 years, and my favorite aspect has always been the people. I’ve lived across the globe and have maintained friendships with people around the world. It’s all changed my perspectives. I love communicating with the global St. Regis community and prefer to think of myself as a brand steward as opposed to a brand leader. What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? Staying in the travel industry post-pandemic — but travel is in my DNA; it will always be my first love. Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? Arne Sorenson was such a visionary! I miss him and think of him often. And, of course, John Jacob Astor IV, the founder of St. Regis.
TECHNOLOGY
As You Like It Empower your world with devices to suit your fancy.
BY JACK GUY
DODOW Not getting enough sleep can lead to longterm health issues, and the stresses of modern life mean more people than ever struggle to get the right amount of shut-eye. Dodow aims to help you nod off, beaming a slow and steady pulse of light onto your ceiling so you can synchronize your breathing with it. Employing a technique known as cardiac coherence, used by fighter jet pilots to manage anxiety, Dodow says it will have you to sleep in no time. $59.99. mydodow.com
SONOS ROAM The latest device from audio wizards Sonos, the Roam portable speaker weighs in at just under a pound and is built to accompany you on the move. The battery lasts 10 hours, and the device is dropresistant and waterproof to boot, all while offering the rich, powerful sound fans have come to expect from Sonos. Control the speaker with the accompanying app, and combine it with other Sonos products to build out your home audio system. $179. sonos.com
PHOTOS: © SONOS, © DODOW, © FENDER, © SAMSUNG
FENDER MUSTANG MICRO Those who play electric guitar know it’s more fun when they can really let go … while their families or roommates might not appreciate their passion. Fender came up with a solution in the shape of Mustang Micro, a tiny amp that connects to wired headphones. This means the budding Jimi Hendrix can play as loudly as they like without everyone around listening to their musical efforts. The Mustang Micro also supports Bluetooth streaming, so you can play along with audio from your mobile or computer, plus you can record your sessions using the USB-C output. $119.99 fender.com
SAMSUNG GALAXY S22 ULTRA This supremely powerful handset from Samsung packs up to 1 terabyte of internal storage and 16GB of RAM in a beautifully designed package. Available in seven colors, the S22 Ultra even manages to fit an S Pen stylus in an internal slot for increased productivity, while weighing just 8 ounces. This seriously high-end piece of kit features Samsung’s most advanced camera system ever, and a 6.8-inch OLED display makes it feel like a mini notepad in your hand. $1,199.99 samsung.com MAY 2022 globaltravelerusa.com
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IHG Business Edge: Celebrating Small Businesses ®
THERE ARE A LOT OF EXCITING EVENTS taking place in May, but National Small Business Week is exceptionally special to IHG® Business Edge because of our loyalty to small businesses and their travel needs. Since 1963, National Small Business Week has recognized the critical contributions of America’s entrepreneurs and
small business owners. It was important for IHG Business Edge to be a resource for those hardworking businesses as they conduct meetings around the nation at one of our 4,200-plus Americas hotels and resorts. Now, more than ever, IHG Business Edge is encouraging and reminding our partners business travel is back,
and Business Edge is ready to bring small businesses exclusive rates and benefits during their next trip. According to the U.S. Travel Association, 86 percent of business travelers are excited to get back to travel as they believe business travel is essential for building and maintaining
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relationships with customers and peers. These meetings can happen again — and they can happen safely. Studies show that, with proper procedures and methods in place, professional meetings and events are safe for attendees and guests. IHG® Hotels and Resorts enhanced the experience of meeting in person by redefining cleanliness. The IHG® Way of Clean initiative ensures face-to-face events meet expectations to keep everyone healthy. Since its inception, IHG Business Edge has catered to small businesses, which represent a majority of the American workforce. In fact, more than half of Americans either own or work for a small business, and they create about two out of every three new jobs in the United
States each year. IHG Business Edge works to continue to reconnect small businesses to their
devoted customers by offering a customized portal powered by compelling content, relevant reporting, and a discounted nightly rate. National Small Business Week is more than just a week to say thank you to our 60,000 partners but to the countless small business owners around the country that led this recovery back to travel. We want to continue to be a tool for your growth and success. Want to become a part of the IHG Business Edge community? It’s easy to sign up, just take two minutes to register at businessedge.ihg. com. Small Business, Big Thanks: If you enroll now, May 1–July 31, and complete a hotel stay before July 31, the account will receive 25,000 IHG Rewards points.
LEARN MORE AT businessedge.ihg.com
WINE & SPIRITS
Philadelphia Freedom Declare independence from alcohol with flavorful, zero-proof cocktails … or indulge in creative boozy libations. BY KELLY MAGYARICS
B
ars these days generally offer well-made nonalcoholic beverages during yearly Dry January promotions — and to a lesser extent in Sober October. But what’s a teetotaler or temporarily abstaining guest to do the other 10 months of the year? In this glorious renaissance era of craft cocktails, the savviest of operators know “not drinking tonight” doesn’t have to (and shouldn’t) equate to yawn-inducing, nearly flavorless club soda with lime. Philadelphia bartenders get in the spirit with libations so good you won’t miss what’s missing. Drinking in the glamorous space at the sumptuous REX at the Royal would be thirst-quenching enough. The teal and gilded façade of the former Royal Theatre — what’s left of the country’s first African-American movie house and live music venue built in 1919 — serves as the backdrop for the Low Country-influenced restaurant. Slip into a velvet-upholstered booth and select one of the liquid options offered during its recently launched brunch; several come in cocktail and mocktail versions, and every sip arrives in swoon-worthy vintage glassware. Swap out the blanco tequila and Galliano in the Por Dio with carrot, turmeric and lime, instead adding grapefruit, orange juice and sparkling water. You end up with the still shockingly orange, vegetal Madras Cooler. Hold the gin in a Pythians (made with sorrel, clove, allspice, lemon and tonic), and the cheekily named Sorrel Loser proves anything but. The super-fun Yellow Snow, a playful combination of blanco tequila, yellow Chartreuse, crème de banane, pickled sweet corn and rosemary, only gets better as its snowball mound of crushed ice melts. Worthy savory accompaniments include sweet tea-brined chicken thighs and malted waffles, and shrimp with cheese-speckled grits. Over in Old City, neighborhood bistro Royal Boucherie proves a lively spot any night of the week. Grab a stool at the low-lit bar situated beneath a pressed tin ceiling and order the French 52, a heady version of the bubbly classic named for the venue’s address on Second Street that mingles local Boardroom Gin with sparkling rosé, lemon and a whiff of rose water. Four Temperance Cocktails pique the palates of the non-potent potable crowd, like a gin-less Easy East Side riff with ginger beer and the chameleon-like Lavender Bow Tie, whose lavender-pea flower infusion turns fuchsia when floated atop grapefruit juice and soda. Just around the corner, explore Forsythia, known for its selection of natural wines and playful sips like a rye- and beet-based cocktail fans of The Office will recognize as an homage to Dwight’s Scranton beet farm. But the modern French restaurant’s most fun use of a spirit might be the splash of green Chartreuse added to the almond butter in which tender escargots take a soak; pickled pearl onion leaves and bergamot croutons add to the surprising presentation. Drink your dinner, indeed.
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Bar Scene: Yellow Snow (left) and Por Dio at REX at the Royal (right), and inside the Royal Boucherie (below) PHOTOS: © KELLY MAGYARICS, © ROYAL BOUCHERIE
2022 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.
HOTEL BEST
AIRLINE BEST
Overall Best Airline in the World ____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance _______________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type ________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website ______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific _____________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers _________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class __________________________________________________________________ International First Class ________________________________________________________ Domestic First Class ____________________________________________________________ Onboard Service _______________________________________________________________ Lounges ________________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendants _______________________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms _____________________________________________________ Airline Cuisine __________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design ___________________________________________________ Airline Cabin Cleanliness ______________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program __________________________________________ Elite-Level Program _____________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion ______________________________________________________________ Award Redemption _____________________________________________________________ Customer Service ______________________________________________________________
BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa____________________________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand_____________________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India _________________________________________________ China ___________________________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe _________________________________________________________________ Europe __________________________________________________________________________ Mexico __________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ________________________________________________________________ North America __________________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China) ___________________________________________________ The South Pacific _______________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America ____________________________________________ To Japan _____________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline ________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline _________________________________________________________________
AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World ___________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World __________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents ___________________________________________________________ Airport Dining _______________________________________________________________________ Airport Parking ______________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ___________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport ________________________________________________________ Best Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia _____________________________________________________________________________ Africa____________________________________________________________________________ Europe __________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia _____________________________________________________________________________ Africa____________________________________________________________________________ Europe __________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ________________________________________________________________ North America __________________________________________________________________ South America __________________________________________________________________ * Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions
Best Individual Hotel in the World ________________________________________________ International Hotel Chain _________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain _____________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel _____________________________________________________________________ MICE* Hotel ______________________________________________________________________ Hotel Website _____________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World __________________________________ Elite-Level Program ___________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion ____________________________________________________________ Award Redemption ___________________________________________________________ Customer Service_____________________________________________________________
HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia ___________________________________________________________________________ Europe ________________________________________________________________________ South Korea __________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ______________________________________________________________ The United States ____________________________________________________________ Japan __________________________________________________________________________ Singapore _____________________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia ___________________________________________________________________________ Europe ________________________________________________________________________ Latin America _________________________________________________________________ Mexico ________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ______________________________________________________________
OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program ______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company ______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination ______________________________________________________________ MICE* City ________________________________________________________________________ WiFi Service ________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand ____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App __________________________________________________________________________ Airline App _________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program _____________________________________ Best Offshore Business Location _________________________________________________ Travel Insurance Company _______________________________________________________ Best Rail Service/Provider ________________________________________________________ Best Credit Cards Overall Credit Card ________________________________________________________________ Small-Business Credit Card _______________________________________________________ Credit Card Special Events _______________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program ____________________________________________________ Credit Card Design _______________________________________________________________ New Credit Card Launch __________________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions ___________________________________________________________________ Benefits _______________________________________________________________________ Redemptions _________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card________________________________________________ Promotions ___________________________________________________________________ Benefits _______________________________________________________________________ Redemptions _________________________________________________________________ Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card ___________________________________________________
PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone
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SPAS
Healing Power
Recharge and renew at The Spa at Four Seasons Philadelphia. BY KRISTY ALPERT
City Escape: Views of the city and infinity-edge pool PHOTO: © FOUR SEASONS
THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL PHILADELPHIA AT COMCAST CENTER 1 N. 19th St. Philadelphia, PA 19103 tel 215 419 5000 fourseasons.com
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s a mom, you’re not allowed to pick favorites. With a growing baby in my belly and a toddler guiding my daily routines, my own favorites often take a back seat as I make the daily choice to swap healthy foods for junk food cravings and toddler tunes for windows-down, volume-up jams. But when I heard my favorite spa was relaunching its facial program, I felt zero guilt — of the mom variety or otherwise — about taking a morning off and booking myself a nice, long, rejuvenating facial at The Spa at Four Seasons Philadelphia at Comcast Center. “I am going to start this off the same way I start it for all my moms that come through here,” began Jenny Gaus, my spa aesthetician during that 90-minute collagen renewal facial. “Take a deep breath and remember: Taking care of yourself is exactly like what they say on the airplane, to ‘put the oxygen mask on yourself before helping others.’ You taking care of yourself first will be the
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best way you can help anyone else in your life. Now, relax and take another deep breath.” And with that she tapped a wooden mallet against a crystal singing bowl, and I slowly allowed my tired body to melt into the warmed, plush bed of her treatment table. The Spa at Four Seasons Philadelphia resides on the 57th floor of Philadelphia’s tallest building, where arriving by glass-encased elevator becomes part of the surreal experience. Although the elevator travels at 11 mph to reach its destination, you encounter a decidedly different pace upon arriving on the 57th floor — likely due in part to the more than 700 pounds of energy-nurturing crystals embedded in the walls of the entire level. A blend of mechanical-diffusing crystals — such as pyrite, obsidian and clear quartz — placed near the elevator, electrical room and fitness center help offset the electromagnetic frequencies. Meanwhile, a calming mix of crystals — including rose quartz, moonstone and lepidolite — charge the relaxation lounge, salon and staff areas
with an energy almost observable in the demeanor of the spa attendants and staff members. When the spa first opened in August 2019, the striking balance between low-tech and high-tech was an intentional decision, one that becomes more and more relevant as guests continue seeking recharging experiences after a tumultuous few years. But it’s not only guests who get recharged at the spa. Every six months a certified crystal healer comes in to re-energize the space and ensure the crystals remain active. Each treatment room carries its own calming energy. A single crystal dominates the theme of each space, and guests book treatments that coincide with the specific qualities and attributes of each room/crystal including rhodochrosite, carnelian, citrine, malachite, turquoise, kyanite, amethyst and clear quartz. My facial took place in the amethyst room, a crystal that coordinates with the crown chakra by enhancing intuition and removing negative thoughts and emotions while promoting a calm state of mind. Among the spa’s entire range of body wraps, massages, salon services and exfoliations, the signature treatments stand out, especially the Seasons of Chakras Massage. During the relaxing, 60-minute essential oil massage, a therapist stimulates all five senses. Reiki sessions and a sound energy healing session book up quickly throughout the week. The latter lasts for 105 minutes and comes with a complimentary chakra set of crystals for guests to take home and continue their healing journey in their own spaces. The breathtaking views and rare opportunity to swim in an infinityedge pool on the 57th floor inspired the facility’s most exclusive experience, and so, in January 2021, the spa hosted its first Night Spa experience. The experience has become a favorite for couples, even today, as the evening begins with a runway of candles guiding two lucky guests to their makeshift spa above the clouds in the empty pool room. It continues with an intimate 60-minute couple’s massage and a private swim above the twinkling lights of the city below. The shared time in the treatment rooms or relaxation room, where anti-gravity chairs strategically look out over the streets of Philadelphia, makes this a favorite among couples. But for me, it’s become my favorite place of solace, a place that reminds me time for myself is not selfish but rather a gift that recharges my inner being. Then, I can recharge those little gemstones waiting for me back home.
Energy Boost: Couple’s treatment room (above), and infused oil and crystals (left) PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS
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GOLF
Face to Face
Four friends reunite for a round at The Meadows Country Club.
Sarasota Gem: The Meadows Country Club PHOTO: © THE MEADOWS COUNTRY CLUB
THE MEADOWS COUNTRY CLUB 3101 Longmeadow Sarasota, FL 34235 tel 941 371 6000 meadowscc.org
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BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER
hile spending time with my team in our Florida office, I took the opportunity to play a round of golf with Wayne Tallman (FXExpress Advisory Board), Jan Young and John Cary, both former neighbors from Bucks County, Pennsylvania, and commuters to New York City who relocated to Western Florida. John lived in China for many years, so I found it refreshing to hear his perspective on current events. The Meadows Country Club, a private facility located close to downtown Sarasota and University Town Center Mall, offers a total of 54 holes on three courses: The Meadows, The Highlands and The Groves. (The Meadows is a members’ course, while the others allow public play.) The club also includes 17 Har-Tru green clay tennis courts, pickleball, a junior Olympic pool, a fitness center plus two restaurants and event space. We teed up at The Meadows Course, designed by golf architect Ron Garl, who crafted more than 250 courses, mostly in Florida.
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Golden Ocala, his best known course, hosted the LPGA’s Coates Golf Championship. At Ocala, Garl started the trend of creating tribute holes mimicking those at Augusta, St Andrews, Royal Troon and Baltustrol. If you play in Myrtle Beach, Traditions Golf Club, built in 1996, proves another Garl gem and a frequent course to play. Traditions ranked as South Carolina’s 2020 Golf Course of the Year and Golf Digest’s Best New Course 1996. After hitting a few balls on the driving range and getting reacquainted, these four Pennsylvanians from Bucks County teed up for a fun round of golf and discussions of global affairs. HOLE 5 489 yards, par 5 On this No. 1 handicapped hole, you face the challenge of water on the right running up the fairway. All balls hitting
the right side seem to bounce favorably toward the water and into the pond. Clumps of trees also grow in that right-side landing area; so if you are lucky enough to stay in, you may have to navigate around trees for your second shot. This was my predicament, and my second shot to the green clipped a tree branch, knocking me down and making me lose a stroke. John and Wayne faced similar issues but on the left side, where heavy growth resulted in recovery shots to the fairway. Jan came through with a masterful drive to position left-center of the fairway and followed with two more “golf shots” to the green, saving par for the team. HOLE 7 139 yards, par 3 Just between you, me and the pages of this magazine, we all underestimated this hole which, though not far off, lies on a peninsula with bulkheads in front. After we all hit the bulkhead and landed in Davy Jones’s locker, we declared a re-hit. Better club selection prevailed, but I hooked my ball a bit and landed on the left side of the green. I chipped up and saved a bogey for the card. Wayne made the green and two-putted for a textbook par, and John came up short, matching me with a bogey. Poor Jan lost another in the water, and we moved on to the next hole. HOLE 9 362 yards, par 4 A nice finishing hole for the front nine, but the water lining the left side of the fairway makes it intimidating. All of the team’s tee shots favored the right side so much, they all left the fairway; after much searching, we determined Jan’s was lost. Wayne chipped his ball back into play, but mine sat about four inches from a coconut tree. Although it originally looked unplayable from a distance, the position actually allowed me to take a complete swing without hitting anything. Keeping the trunk of the tree out of my mind, I took a violent swing and launched the ball high and long with my 6-iron, hitting the back of the green. John’s ball landed short but in good position; he also took a stab at drilling his ball to the green — with great success. An easy two-putt secured par for John and me.
HOLE 13 161 yards, par 3 The hole lies over a pond you must clear, requiring a drive of 135-plus yards to make it over and safely land. With slightly overhanging trees on the right, the 13th sits askew with a bunker ready to catch any wayward balls on the far right of the green. We teed up for the challenge, and, once again, I favored the left side, landing over the green and leaving myself with a long chip back. Everyone encountered issues: John and Wayne caught the greenside bunker, and Jan hit what looked like a great shot only to lose the last bit of airborne momentum and fall in the pond. John flicked his ball out of the sand and onto the green, earning a sandy par. Wayne and I tucked our tails and walked off with bogeys. HOLE 18 411 yards, par 4 After finishing this hole, I said, “Playing this again, I would do things differently.” One of the benefits of The Meadows is its fine on-cart GPS yardage system; there is no lack of distance on this course. I should have paid more attention to the screen and mapping of each hole, particularly No. 18. A drainage trench splits across the
fairway and sometimes fills with water. Hit a short drive and it may prove the end of your par — this was Jan’s fate. I hit a wild shot but it sailed toward the left side of the fairway, landing in the bunker with great force and bouncing out on the top. This left me with an odd shot to the green on a slightly sloped stance. I swung away with an 8-iron for a glorious high shot to the pin that carried a little left. It hit the left side of the green and ricocheted down into the traps below and, ultimately, the water. A little course knowledge would definitely help here. Wayne and John equally struggled to the green; and although this was not one for the record books, we had a great day. We followed up with drinks and snacks at Centre Court Lounge, near the tennis courts, where we all expressed our hope for global leaders to conduct more faceto-face open discussions. We had no idea how right we were.
Day of Play: Golf course overview (top), and Francis with Wayne, John and Jan (bottom) PHOTOS: © THE MEADOWS COUNTRY CLUB, © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER
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CHEFS
Leading the Way BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER
WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? Ah, one of my guilty pleasures is to have one — sometimes two — HäagenDazs Hazelnut Ice Cream bars in the wee hours, after working late into the night. We all have guilty pleasures, and why not? They bring comfort to hard days and joy to life. As for an ingredient I hate to use: eel. I’m just not a fan.
WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? I love to entertain, par-
P
rincess Cruises’ head of culinary arts, Chef Rudi Sodamin, is no stranger to making waves, regarded as the driving force behind revolutionizing culinary practices and elevating fine dining in the cruise industry. One of the most highly decorated chefs on the world’s oceans, he’s left his mark on many of the world’s most respected cruise lines. Sodamin successfully launched Rudi’s Sel de Mer restaurant on three Holland America Line ships and was commissioned by Carnival Cruise Line to create Rudi’s Seagrill on its Excel-class ship Mardi Gras. He was chef de cuisine on Norwegian American Cruise Line’s Vistafjord at just 23 years old and corporate executive chef on Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth II by 26. He later joined Royal Caribbean as director of corporate food and beverage operations. Serving as the first head of culinary arts on Princess Cruises, Sodamin will retain his role as master chef for Holland America Line concurrently. “I see food as the way to our guests’ hearts, and the individuals on the Princess Cruises culinary team bring great heart to what they do and take tremendous pride in their work,” said Sodamin. “My goal is to grow that pride and lead the culinary workforce to new performance heights through innovative approaches to teamwork and creativity, collaboratively creating new signature interactive dining experiences, and motivating this talented team to new levels of culinary artistry.”
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ticularly at home. One thing is for sure: There will always be plenty of bubbly. I’m a big believer in Champagne to celebrate any occasion that brings people to a table for a fine meal. In terms of food, so much depends on the season: What is fresh, what is best, and what creative inspiration would take hold. I might create smoked salmon with caviar, steak tartare, Asian-inspired salmon meatballs, fresh oysters, goose liver lollipops, cauliflower floret fritters. And for the sweet tooth: mixed berries with Champagne sabayon or lemon tart with toppings. My goal is to wow, and the dish can be simple but must be spectacular.
WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN? In all the interviews I’ve done, no one has ever asked me this! I started my career at age 14, helping my mother (she was a professional cook). Around that age, I made an oven-roasted whole chicken
with a vegetable bread stuffing. I believe the first dessert was a yogurt-lemon cream. One thing I remember making on my own was my first biscuit roulade — all that rolling was hard!
IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? As an artist known for the presentation of my dishes, it would be something simple that maintains the integrity of its simple flavors and brings out its natural aromas. For example, if I were serving a dish of sautéed cod filet with a lemon beurre blanc surrounded by sautéed vegetables or a starch, I would put emphasis on the freshest, best ingredients and optimal cooking technique. Then I would focus on the composition, building up the ingredients in a round form, placing the fish on top with a garnish of fresh herbs, then artistically saucing the entire plate.
WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? I am smiling. I would like to see kale salad disappear. Additionally, foam on foods and bacon ice cream. On a serious note, I would love to see all unsafe processed food items disappear from markets. I study food trends (and sometimes start them). A number of them are rising and will stay strong: vegan, vegetarian, fermented foods, foods linked to greater healthfulness and mindful eating, and food safety. PRINCESS CRUISES princess.com
PHOTOS: © PRINCESS CRUISES
Chef Rudi Sodamin elevates the culinary arts at Princess Cruises.
THE
FEELING
EACH MORE THAN
D AY
WHEN
SEEMS
M AGICA L THE
L A S T.
When did you last feel treasured… by warm welcomes, proud traditions, untouched wonders, exotic luxuries, and the life force that’s felt in all things we call Mana? Feel treasured in The Islands of Tahiti. Visit TahitiTourisme.com to plan your tri p.
CRUISING
Rock the Boat Get in the groove on the newest music-themed cruises.
Songs at Sea: The Rock Boat PHOTO: © WILL BYINGTON
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BY JAN SCHRODER
hether you like to line dance, swing dance, rock out, salsa or just chill and listen to tunes, there’s a musicthemed cruise for you. Mix all the best components of a music festival with the ease, amenities and excursion opportunities of a cruise, and you can see why music lovers are ready to set sail. In the past 20 years music cruises have proved popular, with just about every genre represented. One of the largest producers of music cruises, Sixthman Productions, offers cruises such as the Rock Boat, KISS Kruise, Outlaw Country Cruise and Keeping the Blues Alive at Sea. Or choose Broadway, disco, soul and even cruises themed by decades. In addition to the performances, music fans also enjoy a more relaxed atmosphere on most music cruises. “All rules are relaxed and changed,” said Scott Burnett, marketing director, Legendary Rhythm & Blues Cruise. “There is no formal dining and no dress code. Even the ship personnel are in a different vibe and mood.” Some music cruises encourage a different type of dress code, with
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popular theme nights like Pajama Night, Mardi Gras or Wig Night. Laura and Tom Calk of Atlanta, Georgia, went on a week-long cruise one year with Legendary Rhythm & Blues Cruise to celebrate their anniversary and see Tom’s favorite band, Tedeschi Trucks. According to the couple, “We had a blast. There was a theme night every night. One night we dressed as Gumby and Pokey. And we rode the elevator with members of Tedeschi Trucks!” Fans also flock to music cruises to meet and chat with musicians, an experience you seldom get at a concert or music festival. Scheduled opportunities to meet artists include meet-and-greets and autograph sessions. And you are literally in the same boat with all the musicians you came to see — they hang out by the pool, attend the same concerts, dine in the same restaurants and go on the same excursions. Robert Levy from Glen Allen, Virginia, sailed on three musicthemed cruises. “I like the chance to see so many acts back-to-back-to-back and to
Crowd Pleasers: Sixthman Melissa Etheridge concert (above), Southern Avenue on a Blues Cruise (top right), and Sixthman unicorn crowd surfing (bottom right) PHOTOS: © TROY A. WALSH, © JOSEPH A. ROSEN, © TROY A. WALSH
meet the musicians and talk to them like normal people, one cruiser to another,” he said. “I met John Lodge of the Moody Blues at Ernest Hemingway’s house in Key West, Florida, and we just hung out and talked, one tourist to another.” “We loved sitting in the audience with members of other bands,” Laura Calk said. “You may find yourself sitting next to a musician you had just seen play.” On some cruises you can even jam with musicians. The Legendary Rhythm & Blues Cruise hosts nightly jams, and guests can join in and play or sing. It’s not unusual to see guests board a music cruise with a guitar or other instrument. The artists love the jam sessions, as well. “Sometimes musicians get on the stage with other musicians they have never played with before, and you can hear combinations of artists you’ve never heard,” said Legendary’s Burnett. “Some of the magic happens with these open jam sessions.” While music cruises can offer a place for emerging artists to play — and many started their careers that way — big-name musicians love to perform on board as well, including Melissa Etheridge, Kiss, Yes, The Moody Blues and Peter Frampton. After Johnny Winter played the Legendary Rhythm & Blues Cruise, he said, “This blues cruise was better than Woodstock!” Burnett said a week-long Legendary cruise can present more than 100 acts, resulting in an intense pace. “Some people go to bed right after dinner and set an alarm to wake up later for their favorite acts,” he said. No worries if you need a quiet moment away. “We loved hanging by the pool and seeing so many different acts. But I needed a break sometimes,” Laura Calk said. “I could always find a quiet place to escape and read three novels on my cruise.” The percentage of repeat visitors on music cruises remains high, with fans returning for encore performances of their favorite bands every year and forming bonds with other fans. “We have about a 70 percent repeat rate,” said Burnett. “We typically have guests from 15 to 20 countries on board. I’ve seen many of them make lasting friendships, then stay in touch through our chat room or on Facebook.”
FESTIVALS AT SEA Find your favorite genre among these music-themed voyages. Cruises fill up fast, so book early. 1940s Transatlantic Crossing with the Glenn Miller Band ahoyvintagecruises.com/glenn-millerorchestra-crossing Jam Rock Reggae Cruise welcometojamrockreggaecruise.com The Jazz Cruise thejazzcruise.com Legendary Rhythm & Blues Cruise bluescruise.com Outlaw Country Music outlawcountrycruise.com The Ultimate Disco Cruise ultimatediscocruise.com
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FEATURE | SOFITEL BEVERLY HILLS DINNER
A Night to Remember Global Traveler revisits Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills. BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER
U
pon our triumphant in-person return to Los Angeles in December 2021 to celebrate our annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards, the FXExpress Publications, Inc. team also revisited one of our favorite city hot spots: Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills for dinner at the on-site Riviera 31 bar lounge. The list of accolades for Riviera 31 is long, including being a favorite of celebrities and other L.A. elite: Best Hotel Bar in West Hollywood by WEHOville; among the 10 hottest spots in Los Angeles to go out, by USA TODAY; and more. Visitors find themselves surrounded by sensual Baroque décor, cozy ruby red and blue velvet sofas, a gold Rococo ceiling and a hint of Roaring Twenties Hollywood glamour amid the luxurious French flair of the
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Sofitel. We started our evening with refreshing cocktails and delicious traypassed items including Wagyu sliders with aged white Cheddar and caramelized onion spread, lump crab cakes, arancini with truffle and Grana Padano, and a chicken salad tartlet lush with dried cranberries and green apple. For our three-course dinner, we moved to a private dining room off the Esterel breakfast restaurant’s main space. Our sumptuous dinner menu reflected the true love letter to Los Angeles and its diversity of people, cultures, tastes and influences that Chef David Macias puts into every one of his curated dishes. The menu and food offerings at the property reflect his own life and culinary path, which took him from Los Angeles’ South Bay to multiple luxury hotels in the city.
We enjoyed experiencing his ode to the tastes of Los Angeles in our handcrafted menu which began with a starter of roasted autumn squash caprese featuring burrata cheese, roasted pepitas, basil and golden balsamic. I opted for the roasted cauliflower entrée boasting fromage blanc, toasted pine nuts and Bloomsdale spinach, while my colleagues selected from other options including a braised lamb shank with roasted poblano pepper grits, aged Cheddar, sweet onion and a citrus gremolata; or crisp black cod accompanied by caramelized turnip, candied bacon, roasted fennel and sauce verte. For a sweet finish to an excellent night, we enjoyed a spiced, poached pear finished with dulce de leche, French toast and chocolate crumble. Consider Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, Riviera 31 or any of the hotel’s other venues, for any of your event needs. Riviera 31 also hosts an exceptional live entertainment program. Following our meal, we found our reserved table for Jazz Night, offered every Monday night and dubbed “the place to be and to be seen, where the unexpected can happen.” Cello
maestro Ryan Cross and his band bring the best of jazz and blues. Surprise performances from special guests frequently materialize; in the past, Stevie Wonder, Craig Robinson and Dan Reynolds (frontman of Imagine Dragons) joined in to sing and enjoy the best jazz night in Los Angeles. On Wednesdays, it’s time to dance! Angelo Pagan and his band deliver Cuban and Puerto Rican rhythms to Salsa Night, hosted by Gabriela Lopez. Attendees may find themselves dancing or singing next to the likes of Marc Anthony or celebrity dancers like Maksim Chmerkovskiy. Visit Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills and Riviera 31 this spring for seasonal specialties including carnitas bao, pork saltimbocca, fried oysters, white mushroom pizza and bread pudding, alongside cocktails like the Elder Fitzgerald composed of Maker’s Mark, St. Germain, passionfruit syrup and lemon juice; and the Peach Julip, featuring Bulleit Whiskey, Liquid Alchemist Peach Syrup, muddled mint and sugar. Bon appétit!
Tasteful Treats: (Left to right) Riviera 31 Jazz Night, bread pudding, carnitas bao, fried oysters, and the Elder Fitzgerald PHOTOS: © SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS
RIVIERA 31 Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills 8555 Beverly Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90048 tel 310 278 5444 sofitel-los-angeles.com
MAY 2022 globaltravelerusa.com
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FEATURE | A LOOK AT IN-FLIGHT CATERING
A Change of Course Airlines pursue innovation in a post-pandemic return to in-flight catering. BY KATIE MCELVEEN Fresh and Local: Beginning midSeptember, Delta and its Atlantabased caterer will bring flavors from Georgia’s farms and brands to international flights departing Atlanta. PHOTO: © DELTA AIR LINES
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ot, safe and delicious. According to Michael Henny, managing director, Onboard Services Operations, Delta Air Lines, that’s the goal of the company’s in-flight catering program, which serves meals to thousands of passengers hurtling through the sky each day. And while the COVID19 pandemic certainly made getting meals from the kitchen to the tray table even more complicated, Henny chooses to look at the changes wrought by the pandemic as an opportunity. “Bringing things back after COVID was almost like starting with a blank slate,” he said. “We were really able to focus on what customers want, which, conversely, is food that’s exciting but familiar and healthy but indulgent.” One way Delta provides customers with the experience they desire
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is by working with local vendors who can help the airline translate regional tastes into something that can be replicated on an airplane. “The next generation of menus will have been created with a lot of experimentation,” noted Henny. “We need to make sure it works within the confines of what we can deliver consistently.” The airline recently returned to serving coursed meals in Delta One. Union Square Events, a spinoff of Danny Meyers’ restaurant group which includes New York’s Union Square Café and the burger chain Shake Shack, is one of the suppliers Delta utilizes to serve restaurantquality meals to passengers departing from New York’s John F. Kennedy and LaGuardia airports. The decade-old partnership got its start when Delta approached Meyers about serving dishes from Blue Smoke, the
company’s barbecue restaurant, on certain flights. The resulting partnership proved such a success, before long Delta began rotating menu items from several Union Square restaurants onto its planes. Today, Union Square Events includes a team dedicated to developing menus for Delta. Brett Romberg, associate director of culinary operations, Union Square Events, said creating menu items that can withstand the kitchen-to-plane gauntlet poses more hurdles than expected. “It’s amazing what you have to think through,” he said. “We created a fabulous short rib dish that we just knew would be a hit; but when we tried to put it in the warming oven on the plane, it was too tall. That hadn’t occurred to us. But now we know.” Romberg also noted Delta and Union Square Events both put a lot of faith into what flight attendants tell them about passenger responses to specific menu items. “That cumulative view gives us a lot of data, from what looks dried out to what never gets finished,” he explained. “Just yesterday we heard that the blueberries in a breakfast parfait were turning the yogurt a weird shade of grey. We can easily make that adjustment, and passengers will enjoy the dish more.” Romberg said as passenger tastes evolve, his team adds more global flavors to Delta’s menus, such as a Moroccan chicken stew that just passed all the R&D tests. “There’s a fine line at creating something that sounds a little different but is still approachable,” he said. “A lot of the dish’s ingredients are familiar, but instead of adding a bunch of salt, we used harissa and other aromatics to mitigate the taste bud changes that occur at altitude.” Bill Gillen, director of culinary excellence/North American region, LSG Group, which provides airline catering services to dozens of airlines around the world, said he, too, enjoys the challenge of introducing new flavors to customers but wants the dish to delight those who may have grown up eating it as well. “For us, the key is recreating the flavors that make a dish distinct,” he explained. “To make sure everything we serve has an authentic flavor profile, we enlist the expertise of chefs who specialize in specific cuisines.” Gillen said the realities of in-flight catering — such as long waits between the time an item is cooked and when it is served — forced him to get creative with ways to maintain the integrity of the ingredients. “Fish is always a challenge, so we got the idea of wrapping each fillet in a steamed cabbage leaf before plating it,” he said. “When the dish is served, the flight attendant removes the leaf and discards it. The result is beautifully moist, flavorful fish.” The company also experiments with more plant-
based proteins. LSG will also re-introduce the company’s Choose Your Own Menu program, a casualty of COVID. “Passengers built their own meals with choices for protein, starch and sauce,” Gillen said. “It was very popular.” Other airlines found ways to bring back pre-COVID programs as well. Austrian Airlines introduced a smaller-scale
Tasty Selections: In-flight meals prepared by LSG Group (top) and Union Square Events (bottom) will be served in Delta One and first class on flights from New York-JFK to Seattle, Los Angeles and San Francisco. PHOTO: © LSG GROUP
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Flying Fare: Austrian Airlines’ wiener schnitzel PHOTO: © AUSTRIAN AIRLINES
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version of its Flying Coffeehouse, offering coffee classics such as the Melangerie, Viennese iced coffee or a mocha on board and making crispy schnitzel available on select flights. British Airways features classic British dishes including a traditional roast made with aged British beef and served with Yorkshire pudding, chicken pie with mash, and shepherd’s pie. The menu also features vegetarian options using butternut squash, wild cavolo nero and asparagus grown in Britain. In February American Airlines re-introduced hot, plated meals in both economy and business classes and will add healthy grain bowls and entrée salads later in the spring. Passenger favorites like short ribs and warmed mixed nuts will also reappear. Beyond food choices, travelers can look forward to other changes on upcoming flights. Increasingly, passengers make onboard food and beverage purchases using an app on mobile devices; most require a pre-loaded payment method. Pre-order options are also exploding, from British Airways’ Buy Before You Fly menus, which include a selection of food from Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge, to Delta’s First and Business Class Pre-Select menus. “Passengers can choose a regular menu item or one of our limited selections, which is only available as a pre-order,” said Delta’s Henny. “Since we know exactly how many we’ll need for each flight, it gives us a chance to get
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creative.” Airlines also look to minimize single-use plastics and other noncompostable materials, which poses even more of a challenge in today’s COVID era. Delta and ANA are switching to cutlery and dishes made from biodegradable materials; in the main cabin, Delta will serve wines in aluminum cans from a sustainable winery. Swiss International Air Lines and Austrian Airlines are exploring programs to reduce food waste by offering unpurchased fresh products for sale at a discounted price on the last flights of the day. Emirates purchases a number of products from companies that utilize ecologically friendly practices. These include Castello Monte Vibiano Vecchio Cantina, Italy’s first olive oil producer to achieve zero greenhouse gas emissions; Gate Gourmet Japan, which sources produce from farms less than a mile from its facility; and Amarula, an African company that harvests fruit for its cream liqueur from uncultivated trees and supports both elephant conservation and eco-tourism skill building throughout Africa. The company is also building a vertical farm in Dubai that will provide produce served on flights and in Emirates lounges. “COVID forced us to forge new relationships, get innovative with technology and rethink how we do almost everything,” said Delta’s Henny. “It’s been an adventure, but it’s made us more nimble.”
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Spending Power
PHOTO: © AOLESHKO | DREAMSTIME.COM
Boost your rewards with the best travel credit cards for 2022. BY TIM LEFFEL
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s I gear up for a trip to Argentina this year, I’ll fret over testing requirements, travel insurance requirements and a health app I need to download before departure. One thing I won’t worry about is paying for the flight: I’ll travel roundtrip on United Airlines to Buenos Aires using loyalty miles earned from credit card spending. After arrival, I’ll spend one night at an InterContinental hotel earned simply by renewing my IHG Hotels card and paying the annual fee. In Patagonia I’ll enjoy a free night from Wyndham at one of its top-level hotels, paid for with bonus points I received when acquiring its card this year. It would be logical to think loyalty programs reward actual loyalty from flying on an airline or staying with a certain hotel chain, but that’s only true for a small percentage of frequent travelers. Most of the freebies go to people who just bought their way in: those who obtained the right credit card and used it for their regular spending.
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BEST AIRLINE CARDS FOR TRAVELERS The overall trend with airline loyalty programs has been to downgrade the value of loyalty points for all but the highestspending, frequent, first-class travelers. For everyone else, airline credit cards offer an easier path to free flights. For most of these cards, you’ll get a sign-up bonus after a minimum spend within three months. You’ll usually earn bonus points on airline purchases, and an annual fee may be waived the first year. Perks may also include priority boarding, a free checked bag (domestic only on American Airlines) and Global Entry fees, among others. AIR CANADA Canadian residents don’t have as many choices when it comes to points-earning credit cards, but three companies offer affinity credit cards tied to Aeroplan: TD, CIBC and American Express. The CIBC Aeroplan Visa does not charge an annual fee, while the fee is waived on the Visa Infinite, normally $139 annually, if you have the right bank account through CBC. Premium cards that cost $500 and up offer lounge access, a complimentary checked bag and other benefits. Air Canada is a transfer partner of the multiprogram cards from Amex and Chase mentioned on page 42. U.S. residents who travel often in Canada are better off with a Chase Aeroplan Visa: It can earn 100,000 points with a sign-up bonus and awards 25K elite status for its $95 fee. ALASKA AIRLINES The Alaska Mileage Plan Visa card currently offers an attractive sign-up bonus of 60,000 points plus a discounted companion pass each year. Miles never expire, and you receive 50 percent off admission to the airline’s lounges. AMERICAN AIRLINES Barclays and Citi both offer AA cards, with similar benefits but differing sign-up bonuses and points multipliers on purchases. All proved more attractive this year after American announced credit card spending points will count toward elite status, giving AA flyers an incentive to shift spending and regular bills to one of these cards. The AAdvantage Aviator Red World Elite Mastercard from Barclays costs $99 per year but comes with a 60,000-point sign-up bonus after a single purchase and includes plenty of perks. The Citi AAdvantage Platinum Select Mastercard offers 50,000 points after a $2,500 spend but waives the $99 fee the first year.
SOUTHWEST AIRLINES While Southwest does not offer a business-class cabin, it offers plenty of benefits, such as two bags checked free on any flight. It has the most transparent points program of any airline: Just toggle between “points” and “dollars” to see the fares. Chase offers three levels of Southwest cards, with annual fees ranging $69–149, giving you more anniversary miles, higher earnings multipliers and other differences as the fee rises. You will receive a sign-up bonus, good enough for several free flights, plus bonus points for each annual renewal. The sign-up bonus sometimes includes a companion pass.
DELTA AIR LINES American Express offers a range of cards that earn Delta points, the best value being the Delta SkyMiles Gold American Express Card. It waives the annual fee the first year ($99 after that) and currently offers a sign-up bonus of 40,000 points with a $1,000 minimum spend. Spend part of that at a restaurant and get $50 back.
UNITED AIRLINES Through Chase, United Airlines offers four levels of Visa cards. The best value is the Explorer card, which currently offers 50,000 points after a $3,000 minimum spend, two annual lounge passes and a free checked bag benefit on any flight. The annual fee, waived the first year, is $95. Higher levels offer more benefits but cost $250 or $525 per year.
PHOTO: © JOMKWAN | DREAMSTIME.COM
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is easily offset by a free-stay credit each year for any property costing 40,000 points or less. In some cases, that covers an InterContinental or Kimpton property. MARRIOTT HOTELS After swallowing up Starwood a few years ago, Marriott now offers the largest array of hotels in the United States and beyond. Its new dynamic pricing means you’ll pay dearly outside of low season, though, and luxury properties can cost a whopping 130,000 points for a single night. The Chase Marriott Bonvoy Boundless card awards you 100,000 points after a $3,000 minimum spend, and you earn an industry-high 17X per dollar at any of Marriott’s 7,000-plus properties. WYNDHAM HOTELS With a wide range of properties and a straightforward redemption system with only three tiers, Wyndham’s cards from Barclay prove an easy choice, offering 30,000–45,000 points with a minimum spend, plus high multipliers on every dollar put on the card. You can buy your way into automatic room upgrades with the Wyndham Rewards Earner Business Card, though, which grants automatic Diamond Elite level for its $99 annual fee. Upon annual renewal, you receive a 15,000-point bonus.
PHOTO: © SIDELNIKOV | DREAMSTIME.COM
BEST HOTEL CARDS FOR TRAVELERS If you use a certain hotel chain a lot for business travel, that program’s card will have an edge, but be advised hotel programs vary radically in how easy they make it to cash in points. While Wyndham’s program is straightforward and predictable, Marriott’s gets more complicated every year. Many hotels have followed the airline model of using dynamic pricing for points, which means you don’t really know what your points are worth until you pull up a specific city and dates. HILTON HOTELS The point redemption levels for Hilton properties are higher than most others, making their points worth as little as half a cent each much of the time. Hilton hands out those points so generously to its credit card holders, however, that you can easily cash them in regularly if you have its Amex card. It’s common to earn 3X, 5X or more for every dollar you spend in a multitude of categories. The lowest-level Hilton Amex comes with a generous sign-up bonus and no annual fee; but if you pay $95 annually for the Surpass or Business card instead, you get far more in value than that. Besides earning 12X points at Hilton properties and a minimum of 3X elsewhere, you can enjoy a free night award annually, automatic Gold status and 10 complimentary Priority Pass lounge visits per year. IHG HOTELS The IHG Rewards Club Premier card currently grants you 125,000 points for signing up and spending $3,000 and gives you automatic Platinum status for room upgrades. The $89 annual fee
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MULTIPROGRAM TRAVEL CREDIT CARDS If you frequently travel on different airlines, stay at different hotel chains and have orphan points that don’t add up to enough to cash in, a multiprogram card can help you top off those accounts to reach your goal. Instead of being tied to one provider, you can bank points in a central system and then transfer them to partners as needed. The Chase versions are Sapphire Preferred and Sapphire Reserve. The Preferred — currently offering a 60,000-point sign-up bonus — makes a better bet for most travelers since it carries an annual fee of $95 compared to $550 for the latter. You get primary rental car insurance and travel discounts when booking through Chase, but the main reason to have this card is program transferability. For airlines, you can shift your points to programs from Southwest, Air Canada, United, Virgin Atlantic, JetBlue and others. Points can transfer to hotel partners IHG, Marriott and Hyatt. If you hold a regular Amex that’s part of the Membership Rewards program, you earn points you can transfer elsewhere as needed. Delta Air Lines is the only U.S. national carrier, though, joined by JetBlue and Hawaiian Airlines. A more extensive list of foreign carriers includes Air Canada, Aeromexico, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Singapore Airlines and others. Participating hotel programs include Choice, Hilton and Marriott. The Membership Rewards program is the same no matter which card you have, but the benefits and earning multipliers vary as the annual fee rises from $149 to a hefty $695 per year. Just remember to pay off the balance, of course, or otherwise high interest charges will negate those free flights and stays.
PHOTO: © MONKEY BUSINESS IMAGES | DREAMSTIME.COM
Ready to plan your next family vacation? Whereverfamily.com is the trusted source for the modern family written by award-winning journalists connected closely to family travel. Updated daily with content unique to today’s traveling families, the website features need-to-know information on planning family trips at any budget for any age group.
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U.S. NATIONAL PARKS Backcountry Access: Off-road tours by NAVTEC Expeditions take visitors through back entrances in Arches and Canyonlands national parks. PHOTO: © KATHERINE RODEGHIER
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DESTINATION ONE | TBILISI
Contemporary Crossroads Tbilisi beckons with an old-meets-new, East-meets-West vibe. BY RON BERNTHAL
Eclectic Mix: Tbilisi cityscape (above), and Stamba Hotel (right) PHOTOS: © JOYFULL | DREAMSTIME.COM, © STAMBA HOTEL TIBLISI, A MEMBER OF DESIGN HOTELS™
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hroughout Georgia, streets and squares bear the name of Shota Rustaveli, a medieval Georgian poet and a key figure in the country’s history. Although Georgians take great pride in their long history (founding Tbilisi in the sixth century), they especially savor more recent events when Georgia declared its sovereignty over Soviet laws. Renamed the Republic of Georgia in 1990, it gained independence before the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991.
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Since then Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, enjoyed increases in international business opportunities, a surge in the restoration of former Soviet buildings, new mixed-used projects and a fastgrowing tourism and hospitality industry. Rustaveli Avenue begins at Freedom Square and extends almost a mile through the city. This center of Tbilisi holds many governmental, cultural and business facilities. Stroll down Rustaveli and feel the city’s vibrant energy as businesses, cultural
LODGING
DINING
The Biltmore Hotel Tbilisi Located in Tbilisi’s tallest skyscraper, resembling a cascade of water, the 214-room luxury hotel offers WiFi, upscale bath amenities, a spa and beautiful views. Dining options include a sushi restaurant and a trendy cocktail bar.
Barbarestan The family restaurant bases recipes on Chef Barbare Jorjadze’s cookbook of Georgian classics. The atmosphere reads somewhat formal, with lace tablecloths, and menu items include rabbit wrapped in ham, pumpkin patties and cherry soup with mint, all made with local ingredients.
29 Shota Rustaveli Ave. $$$ Stamba Hotel This 62-room Design Hotels property repurposes industrial features of a former printing house for a 1930s retro look with a contemporary edge. Don’t miss the rooftop pool, lobby vertical garden and Tbilisi Photo and Multimedia Museum. 14 Merab Kostava St. $$$
venues, hotels and restaurants cater to locals and international visitors. Fabrika, one of Tbilisi’s most successful urban projects, features a multifunctional industrial space. Once a Soviet-era sewing factory, part of the building now houses a youth hostel, but people of all ages fill its public courtyard and its cafés, bars and boutique shops run by local entrepreneurs. Enriched with colorful and raw materials like wooden planks and metal stairways, along with an array of vintage furniture, it symbolizes the city’s modern and youth-oriented environment. Located in old Tbilisi on the bank of Mtkvari River, Fabrika brings a once-forgotten neighborhood back to life. The Adjara Group, developer of Fabrika, also began work on Radio City in the Gldani-Mukhiani district. The renovated former radio factory will provide a center for creative industries and startup innovators in a unique ecosystem of shared workspaces, shops, restaurants, bars and entertainment and event venues. The project will unite more than 10 industries and 35
Tbilisi Marriott Hotel Opened in 1911 as an opulent mansion-style hotel, the 5-star Tbilisi Marriott offers 116 rooms and 11 suites. Façades retain their original design; rooms with courtyard views feature balconies. Amenities include marble bathrooms, WiFi, a 24-hour fitness center and Executive Lounge. 13 Shota Rustaveli Ave. $$$
132 Davit Aghmashenebeli Ave. $$$$ Racha This popular tavern serves affordable Georgian classics to locals and visitors. From the dining room peek into the kitchen and watch the staff making khinkalis (steamed dumplings). Try mtsvadi (pork skewers with tkemali plum sauce). 4 Mikheil Lermontovi St. $$ Zala Restaurant Zala transformed a women’s school into a lovely brick venue with a historic arched wine cellar and windows overlooking the charming old Vera neighborhood. Try the beef steak with Saperavi wine sauce and tashmijab (potato purée and Sulguni cheese). 2 Belinski St. $$ MAY 2022 globaltravelerusa.com
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Lifestyle Hubs: Artist’s rendering of Cubic Towers (right), and Fabrika mixed-use spaces (below) PHOTOS: © NAKANIMAMASAKHLISI
sectors and support more than 200 economic activities. In 2019 Tbilisi’s mayor, Kakha Kaladze, convened a meeting on the fate of the city’s Soviet mid-century residential apartment blocks, known as khrushchyovkas (a reference to Nikita Khrushchev). Although many residents relate these buildings to the harsh times under the Soviet Union, others appreciate the spacious courtyards and family-oriented design. While new construction replaces many Soviet-era buildings, private contractors rehabilitate others. Georgia ranked seventh in the World Bank’s Ease of Doing Business 2020 rating of 190 countries and No. 2 for ease of starting a business. “Entrepreneurs in Georgia can, for example, transfer a property title within one day and at
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no cost,” said Valeria Perotti, program manager, the World Bank’s Doing Business unit. “Georgia started reforming in 2004 and went ahead of many of its peers.” Georgia also gets high marks for the 51 reforms made over the past 17 annual reports, including widespread use of electronic platforms for business. Sitting at a geopolitical crossroads, Georgia can export to Turkey, the European Union and the former Soviet republics; it seeks a similar free-trade accord with the United States. A recent success story in Tbilisi’s startup community emerged in 2021, when U.S.-based SpinCar, a global company specializing in digital automotive merchandising, acquired startup Pulsar AI. The startup created a virtual sales assistant technology, one of the most advanced automated conversational AI platforms in the automotive industry. According to Georgia’s Ministry of the Economy, the Pulsar AI deal was worth tens of millions of U.S. dollars. Pulsar AI’s technology research and development team continues to work in Tbilisi while the business team moved to California. It marks the first Georgian high-tech startup to successfully reach the global market, but others are close behind. Wine and fruit exports also play a big role in Georgia’s business growth. In 2021 the total revenue from exports of walnuts, mandarins, peaches, nectarines, apples, persimmons and blueberries amounted to a record $213 million.
JUST THE FACTS Time zone: GMT +4 Phone code: Country code: 995 City code: 32 Currency: Georgian lari Key industries: Steel, machine tools, electrical appliances, mining (manganese, copper, gold), chemicals, tourism, wood products, wine
INFO TO GO Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi International Airport lies 11 miles southeast of the city. A new arrivals terminal opened in 2017 and offers car rentals and taxi service (20–30 minutes to the city; $8–16). The Airport Rail Station (200 feet from the terminal) offers direct trains to/from Tbilisi Central Railway Station (35 minutes; $0.50).
CHECKING IN WITH IA PARULAVA
Owner, Kisi Boutique Hotel, actor and TV host Where would you take visitors to introduce them to interesting people and off-beat places in Tbilisi? Georgia offers many interesting people and magical places to visit. But walking in Tbilisi, just before the Botanical Gardens, you end up in a narrow entrance with stairs leading to the apartment of Mr. Tamaz (ask anyone in the area and they will take you there). Mr. Tamaz is the last master of Georgian silver and gold crafting on accessories. He is almost 90 years old but looks 60. Together with my father, he was one of the first Tbilisi residents to bring back the chokha, a wool coat traditionally worn by men, with folds on the chest, later made to hold bullets and gunpowder. Now the folds are ornamental. It originated in Persia and came to Georgia around the ninth century. Many Georgian men and women brought it back as a source of national pride after claiming independence in the 1990s. Mr. Tamaz speaks six languages, and he and his lovely wife may invite you to enjoy tea and sweet preserve, good homemade wine and lots of amazing stories about Tbilisi. You will see his amazing work and his small studio. And in Georgia you never leave without a small gift. In the decades since independence, has Tbilisi become a better city for artists, film makers, designers and architects? Georgians have art and culture in their genes, transmitted from generation to generation. Georgia remains the regional capital of art and culture, despite many challenges. We are witnessing the development of an amazing generation of artists, musicians, painters, singers, dancers, writers, designers, poets … you name it! This is our identity, what makes us all proud to be Georgians. Tell us about your roles as an actor and TV personality, and recently in the hotel business. I have acted in films since the age of 11, first in
Georgia and then in Los Angeles from 1990 to 1998, before returning to Tbilisi and hosting several TV programs, which I continue to do. In 2017 I got involved in the hotel business, and I am proud of my 15-room Kisi Boutique Hotel in the heart of the old city, close to the Botanical Gardens. My staff and I created a wonderful family atmosphere, and it’s the first and only hotel in Georgia with a charming cat who greets guests like a well-behaved staff member.
Local Perspective: Ia Parulava (top left), and waterfall at the Tbilisi Botanical Gardens PHOTOS: © IA PARULAVA © NIKOLAI KORZHOV | DREAMSTIME.COM
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Grand Design: Tbilisi Funicular (top), Rike Park Concert Hall (middle), and the fairy-tale Clock Tower of Gabriadze Theatre (bottom) PHOTOS: © JOYFULL | DREAMSTIME .COM, © ULF HUEBNER | DREAMSTIME .COM, © XANTANA | DREAMSTIME.COM
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Georgian (English is the official second language)
COMING AND GOING
DIVERSIONS The Tbilisi Funicular climbs to Mtatsminda, a leisure and amusement park overlooking the entire city. Enjoy a drink at the restaurant at the top along with the view, especially at sunset. Located near Freedom Square, Art Museum of Georgia exhibits approximately 140,000 items of art representing various cultures and time periods. Also visit the Georgian State Museum of Theatre, Music, Cinema and Choreography (known as Art Palace) to view important cultural objects in an iconic building incorporating Gothic and Islamic architecture. Gabriadze Theatre, founded in 1981, now houses the Georgian Marionette Theatre. The building features a magnificent though quirky clock tower where figurines perform daily at noon and 7 p.m. Rike Park Concert Hall and Exhibition Center boasts a beautifully designed glass and steel venue in the middle of a park, with an aerial tramway nearby. Take a short walk to explore the National Botanical Gardens with the Leghvtakhebi waterfalls and the unique Peace Bridge. Plan a daytrip to Mtskheta, a UNESCO World Heritage site inhabited since 1000 B.C. Just 12 miles (20–25 minutes by taxi) from Tbilisi at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, Mtskheta sits astride an ancient trade route. Excavators have found glass perfume bottles, Greek and Aramaic writings, pottery, metalwork and jewelry; and the town’s museum displays examples.
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U.S. citizens need a valid passport to enter Georgia and may reside, work or study in Georgia without a visa for up to 365 days. U.S. citizens who overstay the permitted 365-day period are subject to a fine.
FX Excursions FX Excursions offer a chance for a once-in-a-lifetime experience in a destination around the world. The unique itineraries, exclusively created by and for FXExpress Publications, Inc. and its partners, allow participants to go hands-on at a worldwide event or see an international city in a new way. All the planning and sightseeing is handled for attendees, from the flights and accommodations to the itinerary. Visit our websites — globaltravelerusa.com, whereverfamily.com and trazeetravel.com — to learn more about our three tour options, including suggested itineraries in worldwide destinations and recommended tours travelers can book at leisure through our preferred tour partner. Our Specialty Tours allow you to travel with us on a handcrafted agenda around the globe.
STATESIDE | ALBUQUERQUE
Sunshine and Soul Albuquerque embraces a colorful past and a bright future. BY KARIN LEPERI PEZO Soaring Spirit: Eagle dance PHOTO: © KARIN LEPERI PEZO
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ften known as the city of sunshine, Albuquerque, New Mexico, takes pride in its colorful history, diverse cultures, dynamic traditions and natural beauty. But even as it celebrates its heritage, Albuquerque masters the fine art of embracing the future in the present. The result: an affordable yet vibrant Southwest city that retains its soul, keeping Albuquerque fresh yet enduring. Mayor Tim Keller said, “Albuquerque is not only a top destination for visitors but for relocating and expanding businesses of all sizes.” He added, “Between our unique and diverse culture, vast recreational landscapes and strategic investments in fast-growing industries like tech and space, folks are discovering what we here already know — Albuquerque has the unmatched quality of life that people are after, something we’ve begun to value more and more since the pandemic. For professionals and businesses alike, Albuquerque is a great bet for your future.”
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Albuquerque gave its Old Town a facelift, with new developments in Plaza Don Luis including two tasting rooms from Ruidoso-based Noisy Water Winery and Albuquerque-based Sheehan Winery. While there, check out Outpost 1706 Brewhouse, Lapis Room, Luna + Luz Modern West Goods and Flying Roadrunner Bakery. The city boasts a burgeoning food scene as well. Think Albuquerque is only about New Mexican food? Think again. According to Mayor Keller, “Albuquerque’s food scene is diverse, unique and expanding, just like our city.” From the new Sawmill Market and food halls, food trucks, restaurants and diners to sophisticated dining at Level 5 and NativeAmerican cuisine at Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, you’re sure to find something to please everyone. Sample indigenous cuisine at The Indian Pueblo Kitchen and time your visit to coincide with Native American dancing, listed on the Cultural Center’s event website. Nearby, Level 5 at Hotel Chaco proves popular for fine dining with a panoramic view of Albuquerque. Mayor Keller added, “We’re excited that developers and creators alike are seeing the value of investing in the food culture here through destinations that boost local entrepreneurs, like Sawmill
Local Flavor: Wine tasting sign (above left), Noisy Water Winery’s Green Chile Wine (above right), and chilaquiles (below) PHOTOS: © KARIN LEPERI PEZO
Market, 505 Central, Green Jeans Farmery, Tin Can Alley and more.” Flora Restaurant, a favorite at Sawmill Market, offers excellent Mexican dining, including ceviche, in a festive and fun environment. Craving Vietnamese, Venezuelan, fish and chips or the great American hamburger (Dr. Field Goods)? It’s all here at one of Albuquerque’s newest artisanal food halls with a hip vibe and contemporary adult beverage scene that includes many New Mexico beers and wines. For an excellent Sunday brunch try Campo at Los Poblanos Inn, where chilaquiles prove a customer favorite. Then drive the scenic Corrales Byway. Providing the backdrop for Western movies of the past, Albuquerque also became known for Emmy Award-winning TV series such as Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul as well as Academy Award-winning movies such as No Country for Old Men and blockbusters like Star Wars: The Force Awakens. As a premier industry hot spot for entertainment, television and film production, Albuquerque garnered MovieMaker Magazine’s No. 1 spot in the country to live and work as a filmmaker, 2019–2022. In 2020 Netflix Studios announced expansion plans for a bigger presence here in local television and film production services. And NBCUniversal opened a TV and film studio location downtown, while other production-related companies strategically opened divisional offices in Albuquerque. From food, film, space and science to nature, nostalgia and culture, Albuquerque proves itself distinctive, with a welcoming Southwest spirit that artfully blends the past, present and future.
SCENIC DRIVES For a scenic drive that offers the essence of old Albuquerque and its agricultural beginnings, explore the 6.7-mile Corrales Scenic Byway, in the heart of the Rio Grande Valley. You’ll encounter a bit of agriculture, quirkiness, sophistication and ranch life all rolled into one charming drive: apple orchards, horse ranches, palatial estates, wineries and charming restaurants and cafés. From I-25 take the Alameda Exit 233 heading west, then head north on NM 448. Or from US 550, head south on NM 528, then east on NM 448. Along this stretch you will find historic buildings, boutique shops and restaurants offering local food and laid-back country ambience. This, the epicenter of the charming village of Corrales, has supported more than 1,300 years of irrigated agriculture and exudes New Mexican charm at its best. Take a stroll through the nearby Corrales Bosque Preserve, where you can hear sounds of 180 species of migrating and nesting birds along with the soothing babble of the acequia. It contains 400 acres of the Middle Rio Grande Cottonwood Forest. You can also connect to El Camino Real/Historic Route 66, drivable in the same day. From the north, start with El Camino Real, merge with Historic Route 66 in Algodones and connect via Alameda Boulevard in Albuquerque to the Corrales Road Scenic Byway. Relive bygone-era history along King’s Road and old Route 66.
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MICE | SÃO PAULO
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Sophisticated Hot Spot Choose São Paulo for stylish meetings and events. BY JOHNNY MOTLEY
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io de Janeiro, with its mountainrimmed beaches and balmy weather, might be Brazil’s most iconic city, but São Paulo — or Sampa, as locals affectionately call it — rivals as the economic and cultural capital of South America’s largest country. Justifiably compared to New York, the sprawling metropolis of 12.5 million inhabitants boasts some of the Southern Hemisphere’s best dining, museums and entertainment. From Michelinstarred restaurants SÃO PAULO MAINTAINS ALL to legendary THE NECESSARY INGREDIENTS nightclubs that roar until the FOR WILDLY SUCCESSFUL late morning CONVENTIONS AND HOSTS to exquisite art galleries like 90,000 EVENTS EACH YEAR. MASP, São Paulo exudes endless sophistication and excitement. Cosmopolitan and welcoming, Business and Leisure: Paulistas (São Paulo locals) speak English well Sheraton São Paulo WTC Hotel Golden Hall (top left), and love to share their hometown’s charms with guestroom (top right) and visitors. As Latin America’s most important XII Congresso Paulista de Urologia (middle), and Hotel financial hub, the city naturally attracts meeting Unique exterior (bottom planners with first-rate MICE amenities includleft) and meeting space ing convention centers, business hotels and (bottom right) trade show venues. PHOTOS: © SHERATON SÃO PAULO WTC HOTEL, © HOTEL UNIQUE Although situated on another continent, São Paulo offers surprisingly easy access from North America. São Paulo’s principal airport, Guarulhos, receives around 40 million passengers per year, and flights arrive daily from New York City, Atlanta, London and Chicago. Direct flights from New York typically cost around $1,000. Guarulhos Airport lies about an hour by car from Avenida Paulista, São Paulo’s version of Wall Street. Visitors to São Paulo quickly note the flocks of helicopters weaving between the city’s skyscrapers, and, in fact, Sampa boasts the most chopper traffic of any city in the world. But for those who prefer more conventional transportation, the city operates an excellent subway and
bus system as well. The subway reaches just about all corners of the vast city, with tickets available for purchase in stations. If you need help getting around, locals are usually more than happy to help out. Uber and taxi services are also ubiquitous throughout the city. São Paulo maintains all the necessary ingredients for wildly successful conventions and hosts 90,000 events each year. The São Paulo Expo, one of the largest convention centers in the world, hosts everything from auto industry trade shows to biotech conferences and can accommodate just about any type of convention — large or small, formal or casual. The Expo contains several large spaces for trade shows as well as lecture halls with stages, superb sound systems and enough seating to accommodate up to 7,000 participants. The Expo lies about 20 minutes by Uber from Avenida Paulista and Jardins, perfect neighborhoods for dining or blowing off steam post-convention. The São Paulo Business Center proves another terrific option for corporate conferences, meetings and hybrid events. Partnered with several hotels within walking distance, the SPBC offers unrivaled comfort and convenience. Since the center contains several excellent restaurants, bars and cafés, participants can stay on site for meals, coffee breaks and even happy hours. Veja, Brazil’s most circulated magazine, recently named Sheraton São Paulo WTC Hotel as the best business hotel in the country. In addition to first-rate conference centers and exhibition halls, the hotel boasts a luxurious outdoor swimming pool lined with cabanas and bars. The property offers sumptuous rooms to boot, ensuring participants will be well-rested for conference activities and meetings. A quick taxi ride takes guests to Jardins, São Paulo’s poshest neighborhood and home to worldrenowned restaurants like D.O.M. Additionally, almost all other major hotel chains — including Marriott, Hilton and Mandarin Oriental — offer locations in São Paulo with accommodations for conventions.
UNIQUE VENUES The architectural equivalent of a Salvador Dalí painting, São Paulo’s Hotel Unique mesmerizes all who behold it. Designed by Ruh Ohtake, a celebrated Japanese-Brazilian architect, the massive, boat-shaped hotel boasts a tree-lined swimming pool and event spaces ideal for any corporate gathering, all surrounded by blocks of trendy restaurants, cafés and bars where guests can unwind. Guestrooms run about $400 per night, and the hotel partners with the American Express Fine Hotels + Resorts program, meaning guests with the Amex Platinum Card may receive upgrades and perks. hotelunique.com São Paulo’s Football Museum, part soccer history exhibit and part shrine to the game’s greatest players, resides in Pacaembu Stadium, where Corinthians and Palmeiras, two of Brazil’s most popular soccer teams, hold their home matches. For the ultimate São Paulo soccer experience, visit the museum during the day and return at night to watch a game and revel with some of the world’s most fervent fans. The Football Museum hosts corporate events such as press conferences, product launches, promotional campaigns and business social gatherings. museudofutebol.org.br
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9–5 | TAIPEI
Tea Time Elevate client meetings as you drink in the history and hospitality of Taipei. BY ELYSE GLICKMAN Creative Treats: Afternoon tea at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei Jade Lounge PHOTO: © MANDARIN ORIENTAL, TAIPEI
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hroughout Taiwan’s history, tea played an integral part in the cultural, economic and social landscapes. Between the 18th and 20th centuries, the seeds of its tea industry drifted on to the island from continental China and Japan and through the routes of Dutch and British traders. Today when you steep your plans in activities with a connection to the mighty leaf, getting to know Taipei becomes a delicious, conversation-generating journey. It livens up everything from the city’s restaurants to 5-star hotel high tea services, food tours, outdoor activities, art galleries, street markets and high-end retail. The nation’s tea trail originates in Taipei, leading to tours
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modeled after those found in traditional wine-growing regions, with varietals ranging from green teas (including the prized Sanxia Gan Zhong “Dragon Well”) to yellow, red, oolong, black and white. While a day or half-day on Nangang Tea Mountain — bordering Taipei’s Nangang District and New Taipei’s Xizhi District, 30 minutes from downtown by car or Taipei’s convenient, clean MRT public transportation — proves a perfect introduction to both the capital region and Taiwan, it also provides a relaxing retreat back into nature at the end of a conference or convention. Nangang offers a trail for every fitness level, starting with Loophe Guihua Trail, cutting through several tea farms and featuring views of Taipei City and the countryside beyond it. The more challenging Gengliao Old Trail Loop leads up to Tuku Peak, the area’s highest mountain. The Taipei Tea House, the cultural and educational anchor for Nangang Tea Mountain, offers tasting workshops, specialized tours, DIY planting and history- and nature-related talks. Shi-Yang Culture Restaurant, another mini daytrip destination, demonstrates how Japan’s occupation influenced Taiwan’s culinary and tea cultures in a stylish, minimalist-modern setting. If your companions prefer to stay in the city center (and close to air-conditioning, given Taipei’s tropical climate), you’ll find plenty of options in the city’s trendiest neighborhoods. The Wistaria Tea House in Da’an District retains much of its 1920s and ’30s charm while offering tea tasting sessions, light meal service, rotating tea history exhibits and a well-curated retail area. The Silks Palace restaurant at National
Palace Museum remains an event planner favorite for its pull-out-thestops business group banquets (headlined by edible versions of key museum artwork). However, the museum’s Sanxitang Teahouse provides a more intimate alternative with high-grade teas and gorgeous views of the city’s mountains. The Red House, constructed in 1908 and known for its theater, includes two retail spaces (The Red House Select Shop and Creative Boutique) stocked with artisanal teas and tea-related decorative items. Its popular weekend Creative Market features fashion and home items from up-and-coming Taipei designers. The Xinyi neighborhood boasts the four-story Eslite Spectrum Songyan Store adjoining Songshan Cultural Park (a former tobacco factory repurposed as a gallery and performance spot). There’s nary a chain store in this mall, and several Taiwanese tea shops and cafés populate the third floor. Although Taipei’s night markets remain as popular as ever, Taipei Eats tours leave no doubt you’ll find just as many things to savor by day and without the crowds. The Xinyi tour, launched with the company in 2014, starts at the local wet market and continues on to mom-and-pop restaurants specializing in everything from breakfast pastries with scallions to pulled pork gua-bao sandwiches, stinky tofu and soup dumplings. The tour also works in a unique drink creation, such as Earl Grey boba tea from The Milk Shop. The founders recommend booking a tour at the start of a trip, as it can serve as an icebreaking experience as participants get to interact with locals and pass noted historic sites such as the Sun Yat-Sen Memorial. The Mandarin Oriental, Taipei and ShangriLa Far Eastern Plaza Hotel shine with next-level creativity put into high tea presentations. The Mandarin Oriental’s Jade Lounge notably hosts a series of themed collaborations with fashion and beauty brands such as La Mer, Diptyque, Sisley, Guerlain and Chantecaille (the pastry kitchen spins cakes and sweets resembling elegant boxes and packages). The Shangri-La takes things to new heights by serving its high tea in the top-floor Marco Polo Lounge, displaying its edibles on a four-tier stand modeled after Taipei 101 and with a view of the real thing on the side. If a meet-up is closer to happy hour, both properties’ mixologists work their magic with tea-based cocktails expertly blended with top-shelf spirits. Given Taipei’s prominence as an international business destination, it offers an abundance of top-end restaurants and bistros. However, leads from locals ensure you’ll impress the most finicky of colleagues, as these picks consistently combine a balance of authenticity, service, quality and atmosphere, prompting regular customers to bring in visiting friends. Long-time Taipei resident Don Shapiro, former editor in chief of the American Chamber of Commerce’s Taiwan Business TOPICS magazine, recommends Dian Shui Lou Huaining Store, Fantasy Garden and AoBa Taiwan Cuisine, along with Toh-A and Aux Champs sur Marne, offering delightful spins on French cuisine. Summing things up, the leaves reveal you’ll find something in Taipei certain to be your cup of tea, and many things brewing are sure to impress your hosts and colleagues.
Tea Trail: Taipei tea garden (top), bubble milk teas (middle), and Songshan Cultural Park PHOTOS: © JEEAACHEN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ARTITWPD | DREAMSTIME .COM, © CHON KIT LEONG | DREAMSTIME.COM
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AFTER 5 | BELGRADE
Up All Night Party at Belgrade’s best bars and clubs. BY SHARON KING HOGE
Afloat: River raft restaurant and bar on the Danube River PHOTO: © MIRKO KUZMANOVIC | DREAMSTIME.COM
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ans of nightlife visiting Belgrade find themselves in the Balkans’ best spot. Serbia’s capital takes clubbing to an art form with attractive, well-dressed crowds flocking to bars and discos, taverns and restaurants throughout the city and along the riverbanks — seven days a week and well into every early morning. Party activity centers around Ušće, where the Danube and Sava rivers join, and spreads along the shores. Party barges lining the rivers include two summertime favorites: restaurant-raft Move and raft-club Leto. Along nearby Kosančićev Venac, café patrons sip wine while overlooking the waterfront and magnificent bridges. At Nacionalna Klasa, famous musicians show up to perform for crowds enjoying local specialties ćevapi (smoky grilled sausages), pljeskavica (Serbian burgers of ground beef, lamb and pork) and rakia (fruit brandy). Several venues adjoin the Belgrade Pier, around Beton Hala. Sakura serves drinks and Asian cuisine at an elongated bar, while Ambar proves one of the city’s best restaurants for local fare. Enjoy a beautiful view of Ušće from Kalemegdanska Terassa restaurant within the park surrounding the city’s antique stone fortress. Also near the fort, renowned Manufaktura serves
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national cuisine as famous Serbian bands perform. The downtown old city Dorćol district in the heart of Belgrade serves as a meeting place of artists, musicians and Bohemians. “It’s our Belgrade Manhattan,” reported Serbian Consul Tamara Vujovic. Pedestrian street Skadarlija offers galleries, antique shops and old town taverns featuring local tambourine and accordion music. Mali Vrabac presents a picturesque storefront with checked tablecloths and wine bottles lining the walls. Racks of flowers decorate the façade of Šešir Moj, with inside walls covered in folk paintings. Newly popular in the upscale Galerija development sprawling along the Sava riverbank, a mall with upscale shopping, clubs and restaurants includes Buddha-Bar, serving pan-Asian, European and Californian cuisine “expanded with a special Serbian twist.” Red Queen features “refreshing cocktails and lemonades.” Welcome around town, LGBTQ+ visitors favor gay-friendly clubs Half and Klub 20/44. Throughout the city, reservations are essential but easily booked, in English, on each club’s website. Whatever music, atmosphere or venue you prefer, you’re bound to find it in Belgrade.
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Seoul’s Sustainable Unique Venues Urban regeneration creates popular tourist spots in Seoul.
MANY PEOPLE FIND THE BEAUTY of hanok, a traditional Korean house, in its architectural features, such as roof tiles and wooden pillars, yet the hidden allure lies in the calm ambience as it invites nature into the building with windows and doors. Just like Koreans in old days considered creating harmony between nature and living space of great importance, the city of Seoul transformed a grown metropolis into a people-centered city through sustainable urban planning since the early 2010s. Renewing the city not only brought a better environment to the residents, but also contributed charming tourist spots for visitors. UNIQUE VENUES Unique venues represent the styles, stories and sustainability of Seoul. As the number of small- and medium-sized MICE events increases during the pandemic, providing participants with differentiated experience becomes ever more important and, as a result, there is growing interest in unique venues. The Seoul Metropolitan Government and Seoul Tourism Organization newly discovered 18 unique venues in 2021 on top of 53 existing ones that exist only in Seoul to satisfy eventgoers’ demand for differentiated experiences unique to the host city. They encompass places where MICE organizers and participants can link and communicate while experiencing the splendid scenery, culture, history and daily lives of Seoulites. Unique venues are capable of holding exhibitions, conferences, banquets and performances of various sizes.
SUMSEI Terrarium
SUMSEI Terrarium is an unusual MICE venue that presents an immersive nature exhibition. With five floors of healing sensory experience, this artificial terrarium reminds us to treasure our environment and strive for sustainability. The simulated nature creates the perfect indoor space for sustainability-related and environmentally friendly events in Seoul.
Sikmulgwan PH
Sikmulgwan PH is a trendy invention of botanical garden as a café and an art gallery. While the open space on the first floor is dedicated to artwork and lush plants, the second floor’s café can be used for small meetings. Also, the third and fourth floors are available for diverse exhibitions and events.
SEOUL INDUSTRIAL TOUR GUIDE The Eco Space category of the Seoul Industrial Tour Guide provides a list of places to inspire urban planning if you prefer a more direct observation and experience. For example, Seoul Upcycling Plaza is the best place to experience firsthand how to use upcycling materials by participating in various workshops. You can browse the Material Bank for many ideas for upcycling different materials. The Seoul Industrial Tourism Guide can be downloaded from the Seoul Convention Bureau website at miceseoul.com/pdflibrary.
Seoul Book Bogo
Seoul Book Bogo, Seoul Treasure Den for Books is a second-hand bookstore promoting Seoul’s independent bookstores and the independent publishing industry. The Den also serves as an event venue, hosting small lectures and meetings among the bookshelves and conferences, or events in a separate conference hall.
NEIGHBORHOODS | NEW YORK CITY
Big Time in the Big Apple New York City shows off its new attractions and hotels. BY MARK CHESNUT
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ew York City never fails to impress with its vibrant array of attractions and hotels. And this year the Big Apple offers even more excitement, thanks to new developments in several popular neighborhoods in the heart of Manhattan. It’s no wonder NYC & Company — the city’s tourism office — expects an especially good year. Among the most eye-catching new attractions, the city’s multiple observatories expanded with new features and experiences. Edge, which debuted at Hudson Yards in 2020 as the highest outdoor sky deck in the Western Hemisphere, recently opened City Climb, a “skycraping adventure” that challenges climbers to scale the outside of a building more than 1,200 feet above ground. In late 2021 New York City welcomed its fifth observatory, Summit One Vanderbilt, offering stunning city views from atop the tallest commercial skyscraper in Midtown Manhattan. Photo-worthy views also draw visitors to another of the city’s newest attractions: Little Island, a public park built above the water in Hudson River Park. From here, take a quick stroll to the chic Meatpacking District, where the Whitney Museum of American Art celebrates the 80th edition of its Biennial event April 6– Sept. 5. Fans of shopping, meanwhile, may consider a visit to Fifth Avenue this fall, when the flagship store of Tiffany & Co. reopens; the redesign includes a refreshed Blue Box Café that serves breakfast. Multiple new luxury hotels also up the ante in Midtown Manhattan and nearby this year. The 83-room Aman New York will surely become a favored spot for upscale travelers looking to stay on legendary Fifth Avenue. Just a few steps away, the renovated Palm Court at The Plaza New York draws visitors with a new culinary menu and craft cocktails. The chic neighborhood known as NoMad polished its upscale credentials, thanks in part to this year’s debut of two new luxury hotels.
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Above It All: Edge (above) and City Climb (left) PHOTOS: © EDGE
The 250-room Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad features a restaurant headed by Michelin-starred chef José Andrés and a spa. Slated to open in summer 2022, the 463-room Virgin Hotels New York will offer a new leisure concept called The Pool Club, a pool area furnished with cabanas, day beds and loungers.
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WONDERS OF THE WHITEICELAND CONTINENT ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND Make lasting memories on an expedition voyage in Antarctica. p. 72
ABU DHABI p. 60 BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS p.66 BUSAN p. 62 CASABLANCA p.64 GREEK ISLES p. 74 LISBON p. 50 LONG BEACH p. 70 ICE LOUISVILLE p.56 ORLANDO p. 58
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Global Traveler | 35
Zest for Life European sophistication meets Latin passion in Buenos Aires. BY ARI BENDERSKY
Art Scene: Couple dancing the tango in front of the sculpture Floralis Genérica PHOTO: © ELULTIMODESEO | DREAMSTIME.COM
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ntil you visit, you may never know the extent of Buenos Aires’ cosmopolitanism. From design and architecture to technology and banking — and across all the arts — Buenos Aires truly has a global feel that rivals Paris, New York and Tokyo. While it’s on the water, Buenos Aires is not a beach destination like Rio but rather a port city — hence locals are called Porteños and have a zest for life and want to share it with all who visit. Almost as soon as you enter this beautiful Argentine capital, it becomes obvious just how fantastic this energetic metropolitan city truly is. You’ll likely spend most of your time between upscale, classic Recoleta; chic, eclectic and fashionable Palermo; and the romantic and gentrified San Telmo, where you’ll find a sprawling open-air antique flea market each Sunday. But the Central Business District of La Citi, between the San Nicolás, Montserrat and Retiro neighborhoods, is home to the Buenos Aires Stock Exchange, Argentina’s Central Bank and other financial institutions. No matter where you gather with colleagues and clients, you’ll notice quite quickly
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the European influence on the city’s architecture. Waves of immigrants from Spain, Italy and Germany — and what now comprises the world’s sixth-largest Jewish community — all arrived in Buenos Aires in the 19th and 20th centuries, bringing with them design, culture and gastronomy. All over the city their impact can be observed by simply walking around the neighborhoods and looking up at the homes and buildings. You’ll especially see it at Teatro Colón, one of the most important opera houses in the world, where singer Maria Callas famously performed and which offers group tours. At the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires, modern and folk art converge in permanent and rotating exhibits. You can experience it in any number of the city’s top spots to watch the romantic, sensual tango shows — and learn a few moves yourself in this, the world’s tango capital. You’ll even encounter it in La Recoleta Cemetery, a neighborhood in its own right where some of the city’s most important residents, including Eva Perón, are buried. When it comes to business, Buenos Aires’ numerous industries converge. In 2017 the city was named a smart city due to its welcoming attitude toward innovation, entrepreneurship, technology and app development. The newer Buenos Aires Exhibition and Convention Centre hosted the 2017 Smart City
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FRIENDS & FAMILY | ITALIAN DOLOMITES
Breath of Fresh Air Ski, hike and eat your way through Italy’s Dolomites. BY IRENE RAWLINGS Mountain Magic: (Left to right) Hiking trail with wooden huts on the path in Alpe di Siusi, colorful summer in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and Lago di Carezza PHOTOS: © JANOS GASPAR | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JOJJIK | DREAMSTIME .COM, © ANNASHEPULOVA | DREAMSTIME.COM
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alf-timbered houses cluster around old churches with needlethin spires. Grassy paths lead into thick pine forests. Jagged, sheer-sided mountains frame peaceful Alpine meadows. Welcome to the Dolomites — 18 peaks rising to more than 10,000 feet in the northern Italian Alps — designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. In summer, wildflowers carpet the high meadows where sweet-faced cows create random melodies with their cowbells. Warm weather attracts hikers, climbers, cyclists (electric bikes are available in summer), hang gliders and abseilers from around the world. You’ll certainly find many high-end, chalet-style hotels and restaurants, but the Dolomites also offer numerous family-friendly, reasonably priced options, especially when compared to the chic ski resorts in the French, Swiss
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and Austrian Alps. Rifugi or hütte (quaint huts in spectacular on-mountain settings) offer authentic and inexpensive experiences. Mostly accessible by foot or on skis, many open only in the summer months while others welcome guests all year for meals and overnights. Visit rifugios.net for up-todate information. Hikers and mountain bikers will want to download the free maps.me app. It shows all the trails and footpaths and, once downloaded, can be viewed offline. Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Three Peaks) offers one of the most iconic hikes, featuring easy-to-moderate inviting paths, massive sandstone monoliths and lush valleys. The hike to Lago di Sorapis proves much more challenging, taking a good four hours roundtrip through meadows and pine forests before hitting the difficult part — metal stairs, ladders and cables along a narrow ledge of rock — before reaching the milky-blue glacial waters of the lake. But don’t miss the easy 20-minute circuit around Lago di Carezza, an emerald lake surrounded by misty spruce forests and looming mountains, boasting stunning sunset views.
LODGING
DINING
Forestis Dolomites Surrounded by dense forests and snow-dusted peaks, this retreat offers minimalist interiors with floorto-ceiling windows and fireplaces indoors and out. Enjoy a naturebased wellness program; farm-fresh dinner with sunset-over-the-summit views; and drinks infused with local herbs, berries and fir needles.
AlpiNN A spectacularly cantilevered glass box with wraparound views extends out from the Lumen Museum of Mountain Photography. Ask for a window table and enjoy a seven-course, hyper-seasonal, über-local menu. Accessible by cable car.
Palmschoss 22, Bressanone $$$$$
A favorite hideaway of European royalty in the 19th century, the historic spa town of Merano now enjoys reinvigoration with the present-day search for wellness. Terme Merano offers detox therapy, thermal pools, a snow room and treatments using unique ingredients like organic whey or fine marble sand for exfoliations from Venosta Vallex. At Val Gardena’s Adler Spa Resort Dolomiti, opt for the organic hay sauna, a blossom steam bath or a soak in an otherworldly subterranean salt lake. Although today’s sleek, modern spas offer the latest therapies, most also rely on age-old cures like hot soaks, vigorous massages and clean mountain air. Be aware most of the saunas are gender-mingled, and nude or partially towel-wrapped bodies are the norm. History buffs can sign up for World War I tours to experience artifacts, trenches, tunnels, forts, bunkers, parapet walks and via ferratas. Italian and AustroHungarian troops fought ferocious battles among these steep, ragged cliffs. Erwin Rommel, the famed German general known as the Desert Fox in World War II, fought in these mountains as a young officer in World War I. The dead from both sides rest in small hillside cemeteries framed by low stone walls and overgrown with tall grass and wildflowers. Download battlefield maps at altabadia.org or book with a specialty tour operator like Scott Dunn (scottdunn.com), who offers four days/three nights accompanied by a historian and experienced mountain guide. In winter the mountains transform into a paradise for skiers with some of the
Plan de Corones 11, Brunico $$$$$
Hotel & Spa Rosa Alpina The charming and convivial familyowned, 70-year-old resort, now part of the Aman portfolio, boasts luxurious accommodations and heartfelt hospitality. Tastefully designed with antiques, fresh flowers and frescoed walls, it offers a family pool plus roaring fires in winter.
The Restaurant St. Hubertus The 10-table, 3-Michelinstarred restaurant helmed by legendary chef Norbert Niederkofler touts a no-waste Cook the Mountain philosophy, meaning fresh, seasonal and local. The superb wine list features many from South Tyrol.
Strada Micurà de Rü 20, San Cassiano $$$$$
Hotel Rosa Alpina, Strada Micurà de Rü 20, San Cassiano $$$$$
Hotel Miramonti The elegantly unfussy mountain hideout perfect for couples and young families boasts a minimalist but cozy interior with warm woods and contemporary furniture. Enjoy the glass-enclosed restaurant with off-the-charts views and a Finnish sauna and onsen. Land Rover shuttle to skiing. Via San Caterina 14, Avelengo, Merano, South Tyrol $$$$
Rifugio Ütia de Bioch A slope-side, family-owned restaurant at the top of the Bioch chairlift features a wood interior and Tyrolean décor. Traditional dishes include polenta with wild mushrooms and apple strudel with hot vanilla sauce, alongside local wines. Piz Sorega – Loc. Bioch, Badia $$ MAY 2022 globaltravelerusa.com
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Hidden Gem: Santa Maddalena village PHOTO: © TARAS DZOBA | DREAMSTIME.COM
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longest continuous runs in Europe. Buy the Dolomite Super Ski Pass to get access to the entire region — more than 740 miles of pistes connected by 450 lifts. First-time skiers can head to Cortina Ski School, the first Italian ski school, founded in 1933. Book the Smart Ski Course (six-hour lesson), then hit the slopes. Almost half of the slopes in Cortina d’Ampezzo are beginner-friendly. Midgrade skiers will want to spend time in and around Alta Badia, known for winter hiking trails and cross-country skiing but also more than 80 miles of downhills. Val Gardena always draws powder hounds and heli-skiers. Must-tries for experienced skiers include carving, telemark skiing, twin-tip freestyling and off-piste skiing — all with the help of an expert mountain guide. Strap on snowshoes for incredible winter hiking. One of the best, the Cinque Torri hike in the Eastern Dolomites offers a moderate, 4.5-mile circular hike that takes three to four hours to complete. Explore other winter sports such as sledding, tobogganing, fat-bike touring, snowmobiling and dogsledding. To ski and eat, sign up for the Santa Croce Gourmet Ski Tour out of Alta Badia. You can indulge in the entire hut-to-hut feast without
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removing your skis. Non-skiers may take a cable car directly to one of the mountaintop restaurants serving local cuisine along with panoramic views. Try the savory speckknödel (bacon-speckled dumplings in beef broth) or kaspressknödel, dumplings made with local mountain cheese. If there’s game on the menu, order it. For dessert: strauben (like funnel cake but different) or the truly decadent Kaiserschmarrn (shredded sweet pancakes topped with stewed berries, powdered sugar and fresh whipped cream). Après-ski? Selva and Cortina prove popular with the ski-hard/party-hard crowd; Livigno offers more than 150 bars. Must-try: bombardino, Italy’s favorite winter drink, combining creamy egg liquor with brandy and topped with whipped cream and cinnamon ... warm and reminiscent of an ultraboozy eggnog. Don’t miss the fairy-tale village of Santa Maddalena, located in Val di Funes; Alpe di Suisi and its undulating, high-mountain meadows dotted with charming wooden farmhouses; St. Johann in Ranui church, a tiny whitewashed church with mountains looming above; and Gardena Pass, a high mountain pass with hairpin turns and dramatic scenery … not for the faint-hearted.
INFO TO GO The drive from Austria, Germany or Switzerland takes four to six hours, depending on traffic and weather. Major airlines fly into Venice Marco Polo Airport; rent a car and drive 2.5 hours to Bolzano or two hours to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Road signs are in Italian and German, but English is widely spoken in most tourist-friendly cities. Most major credit cards are accepted, but carry euros for the smaller restaurants and some rifugi. Audley Travel (audleytravel.com) can arrange for a guide to accompany a friendsand-family group along the best less-trodden routes, sharing the area’s history, culture, geology and wildlife. Indagare (indagare.com) offers 5-star tours including World War I historical sites, hands-on cooking classes and personal training sessions. Dolomite Mountains (dolomitemountains.com) arranges tailor-made hiking, skiing, cooking and spa holidays.
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TOURS | KUALOA RANCH
Choose Your Oahu Adventure Pursue your own pace of activity at Kualoa Ranch. BY TERRY WARD
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he 4,000-acre private nature preserve of Kualoa Ranch, often referred to as Hawai’i’s Jurassic Valley, serves a triple treat made up of the Ka’a’awa Valley, Kualoa Valley and Hakipu’u Valley. If you’re looking to land on Oahu and quickly immerse in the Pacific region’s verdant ridges, plunging valleys and coastal dreamscapes, this easy-to-access spot on the island’s windward coast comes with options galore. A 40-minute drive north from Honolulu International Airport brings you to Kualoa Ranch, the famous site Hollywood found when it scouted for a Jurassic Park filming location and the most inspiring landscape where a T-Rex might roam. In fact, some 300 movies, TV shows and documentaries used the ranch as a filming location thanks to a backdrop of towering, dizzying ridges that plunge to a sprawling valley so emerald in hue the landscapes almost appear to be lit from within. What better setting to embark on a slew of daytrip adventures that offer something for every type of traveler? Kualoa Ranch’s two-hour ATV Raptor Tour, the most popular offering, delivers a serious rush of adrenalin, putting you behind the wheel for a rollicking ride through remote valleys and rushing streams. Horseback riding trips and e-bike adventures go through the same sublime valleys but keep a slower pace to traverse the spectacular trails around the ranch. The more leisurely catamaran tours venture into the turquoise waters of Kaneohe Bay, where you might spot sea turtles as you navigate the shallows around the unique basalt island of Mokoli’i. For a pterodactyl’s-eye view of the valley’s splendor, don’t miss the Jurassic Valley zipline tours that start at the top of the Ka’a’awa Valley and send you flying along seven tandem lines (so you can race a friend) — the perfect activity to tempt the more fearless in your entourage. Film buffs rave about Kualoa’s Movie Tour — a great option for a multigenerational group since you travel aboard an old school bus (with the windows knocked out to maximize views) through “Hawaii’s Backlot.” Among other movie set relics, you’ll see the boneyard from Kong Skull Island and Godzilla’s footprints. Then again, if lazing on a splendid slice of Oahu’s coastline aligns with your idea of a perfect Hawai’ian day, Kualoa Ranch has you covered, too, with its Secret Island Beach Adventures. Spend a few hours or a full day paddling a kayak or stand-up paddleboard, bathing in the warm ocean, playing beach volleyball on the sand or just swaying in a hammock under a rustling palm and basking in those awesome aloha vibes.
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Island Thrills: ATVs at Kualoa Ranch (above), and Jurassic World filming destination (left) PHOTOS: © KUALOA RANCH, © MICHAEL GORDON | DREAMSTIME .COM
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PHOTOS: © DREAM DOWNTOWN, © VISITPACIFICA.COM, © PULITZER AMSTERDAM, © OLGA MENDENHALL | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CURAÇAO TOURIST BOARD, © JAVARMAN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ONAIRPLANEMODE__, © LARRY GEVERT | DREAMSTIME.COM
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Advertising manager Haley Fogarty interviews Lauren Rocklin of The Parking Spot, a winner of the 2021 GT Tested Reader Survey awards.
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Whether you’ve been to San Francisco before or not, it’s time to add the destination to your travel list. From historic sites like Alcatraz to fun places like the San Francisco Zoo, the activities are endless.
KICKING BACK | MEXICO
Paradise Perfected Find your bliss among Mexico’s bounty of beach towns. BY BRANDON SCHULTZ
Coastal Charm: Mazatlán cliff diver (above), and (opposite page, top to bottom) family statue in Mazatlán, and scenes of the picturesque town of El Quelite PHOTOS: © ROBERT COCQUYT | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MAZATLÁN TOURISM BOARD
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wimming, surfing, sunning, sailing or sipping cocktails … Mexico’s 5,800 miles of coastline offer a welcome variety of beaches that are hardly one-size-fits-all. From powerful ocean currents for serious water sports to tranquil coves teeming with biodiversity, nearly all of Mexico’s boundless beach towns feature a full stock of high-end resorts, charming homestays and every level of accommodation between, and every town offers the freshest seafood or most tantalizing tacos. With so many solid options, it’s daunting to settle on a new locale, but don’t simply opt for oft-visited Los Cabos or Cancún. Both certainly
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offer plenty to experience, and there’s nothing wrong with returning to old favorites, but Mexico brims with beach towns waiting to welcome you. Consider some of these less-visited escapes for your next journey south of the border. Just across the Gulf of California from Los Cabos discover Mazatlán, one of the most underrated of Mexico’s safe beach towns. The city itself sits right on the coast, offering the full amenities of city living and a magnificent, six-mile oceanfront promenade (malecón) where you’ll find cliff divers, spectacular sunsets over sandy shores and countless seafood stalls supplying Mazatlán’s kitchens with fresh bounty daily. Beyond this can’t-miss stretch of strolling space that ranks among the longest and cleanest in the world, you’ll find a full 20 miles of beautiful beaches, but take some moments away from the waves to explore the historic center’s rich heritage, which you’re less likely to find in more popular beach towns. If surfing is your passion or you’re looking for an idyllic
INFO TO GO Mazatlán International Airport receives direct flights from six U.S. cities and plenty of connections through Mexico City (MEX). Puerto Escondido International Airport currently requires transfer either in Mexico City or Guadalajara (GDL). Visitors generally reach Holbox by flying first to Cancún International Airport and from there taking either a private car or public bus north to Chiquila and a ferry to the island (no cars allowed). Some travelers charter a flight from Cancún or a handful of other area cities to the island’s micro airport.
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LODGING
DINING
Aldea Kuká The luxury side of boho-chic is on full display at Aldea Kuká where thatched-roof rustic meets pool-bar glam at this adults-only eco boutique.
Casa 46 Overlooking the city’s historic main square, Plazuela Machado, the chic dining rooms of Casa 46 offer equal parts regional fine dining and international specialties with an exciting cocktail list.
Calle Paseo Kuká 5, Holbox $$$$$
Take the Plunge: Woman surfing in summer at La Punta, Puerto Escondido (above); and regional cuisine (right) PHOTOS: © GUILLAUMEPREVOST | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MAZATLÁN TOURISM BOARD
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place to give it a go, head to Puerto Escondido in the state of Oaxaca. For experts, Playa Zicatela offers plenty of adrenaline with major swells and unpredictable waves, especially in summer months. Most surfers will do best just to watch here, but it’s well worth an hour or two of ogling. Playa Carrizalillo offers a better spot for casual surf fun (plenty of boards for rent) or for learning from instructors easily hired here. Beyond surfing, it also shines as one of the most gorgeous beaches in the country, with turquoise waters and golden sand tucked in a palm-studded bay. Everyone else should head to La Punta, the intermediate middle ground requiring some true skill but without the bone-breaking power of Zicatela. To the east, Holbox embraces pure, laid-back leisure. A small island between the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico, Holbox not only has no cars but also proudly boasts hardly any paved roads. Enjoy the simple life here, with the complete island vibe of unspoiled beaches surrounding a small town teeming with fresh bites and a healthy street art scene, all within walking distance of just about any point on the teeny island. In summer it also offers prime whale shark spotting and swimming opportunities for those seeking an encounter with Mexico’s famous gentle giants in a truly remarkable locale.
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Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán Beach Resort In the heart of the action of Mazatlán’s Golden Zone, the recently renovated Pueblo Bonito Mazatlán offers oceanview balconies or terraces from every room and suite. Av. Camarón Sábalo 2121, Mazatlán $$$
Constitución 79, Mazatlán $$ Espadín Sunset dining on the terrace of Espadín offers a coveted experience in Puerto Escondido, though the sweeping view of Playa Carrizalillo below is a showstopper any time of day. Av. Carrizalillo 125, Puerto Escondido $$
Vivo Resorts Situated along pristine Playa Palmarito just 15 minutes from town, the luxurious beachfront rentals of Vivo Resorts boast enhancements such as a host of upscale amenities with a wellness and sustainability focus.
Mandarina For quality beach dining on the island of Holbox, head to Mandarina at Casa las Tortugas. Luuma, at the same property, proves an equally popular toes-inthe-sand tapas spot but doesn’t take reservations.
Av. Vivo 46, Puerto Escondido $$$
Casa las Tortugas, Av. Damero 310, Holbox $$–$$$
EVERYTHING TRAVEL, A TO Z
Under 40 and planning travel? Trazeetravel.com is the resource for the under-40 traveler. A network of journalists updates travelers daily with content on subjects of unique interest to the millennial traveler: TRENDS — The trendy ways to travel, from spring break trips to voluntourism, fitness vacations and everything in between. PRODUCTS — Information about the essentials needed for travel, including the latest technology, entertainment, beauty and travel products. TIPS — Nuggets of wisdom about destinations, safety and travel to ensure your trip goes as smoothly as possible. TOP 5 — Our Top 5 lists cover the best of the best in destinations around the globe. UNDER $100 — If you need to see a destination on a budget, we will help you learn how to enjoy a city for $100 or less. REVIEWS — Learn about the best and worst airlines, hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and more.
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BUCKET LIST | U.S. NATIONAL PARKS
America’s Best
Explore the stunning beauty of U.S. national parks. BY KATHERINE RODEGHIER
Majestic Moments: (Left to right) The Colorado River as it nearly doubles back on itself at Gooseneck Bend; switchbacks winding 1,500 feet from canyon floor to the top of a mesa in Canyonlands National Park; the view from an overlook just outside a tunnel in Yosemite National Park; and a motorist enjoying the view from one of nearly 70 lookout points in Shenandoah National Park PHOTOS: © KATHERINE RODEGHIER
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ong before U.S. national parks became go-to vacation destinations during the pandemic, I was a fan. Last year my tally hit 28 parks on my quest to experience all 63 of what novelist and environmentalist Wallace Stegner called “the best idea we ever had.” My most recent additions awakened me not only to the natural beauty of these best ideas but also to their variety as landscapes and in the way we travel through them. AS OUR CAR EMERGED from the tunnel, my husband hit the brakes and our jaws dropped. Once we eased into a nearby parking lot, we watched other motorists do the same. The reason: Tunnel View, an overlook in California’s Yosemite National
Park. El Capitan rose on the left, Bridalveil Fall poured down on the right and the park’s iconic Half Dome rock formation shone in the distance. We experienced Yosemite in two ways, each with pros and cons. With a car, we went where we wished and stayed as long as we wanted, but the driver couldn’t enjoy the view while keeping eyes on winding roadways, contending with traffic and wildlife poised to dart into our path. On a day-long tour booked at Tenaya Lodge, two miles from Yosemite’s southern border, we both enjoyed the scenery and our guide’s colorful backstories about park history and terrain. Tenaya’s 19-passenger customized vans feature glass sides and retractable roofs for unobstructed views of natural features towering over the roadways. The tour took us to the most popular sites; we would have stayed longer at some, less at a few. We also could have taken the park’s free shuttles with stops at major vistas. The road to Glacier Point, a highlight of our visit, remains closed for reconstruction in 2022, with delays expected in 2023. I HEARD HORROR STORIES of hours-long waits to enter Arches National Park, but on a day-long tour of both Arches and neighboring Canyonlands National Park last August, I never saw the entrance. Instead, I went through a back door by way of a 4x4 vehicle driven by a
INFO TO GO
guide from NAVTEC Expeditions. Unlike Yosemite with its waterfalls and granite peaks, these parks sit in the red rock country of the high desert outside Moab, Utah. I rode past Balanced Rock, Park Avenue and other popular spots but also went off road, jostling along dirt paths to backcountry sites only a small percentage of visitors see. I passed bighorn sheep and weathered buttes, stopped to peer at dinosaur tracks, climbed Eye of the Whale Arch and rode the steep switchbacks of the Shafer Trail. At Thelma & Louise Point I imagined a Ford Thunderbird flying off the cliff in the movie of the same name. My stomach flipped as I stood on the edge of a gorge at Gooseneck Bend in the Colorado River. To reduce crowding, Arches now requires reservations for timed entry through Oct. 3. Off-road tours by authorized park concessioners NAVTEC, Adrift Adventures and Moab Scenic Adventures remain exempt, as do other tour operators listed on Moab Travel Council’s website. PICKING OUR WAY OVER ROCKS and tree roots, my husband and I followed a trail to the summit of Stony Man, where a sweeping view of the Shenandoah Valley and the
Blue Ridge Mountains unfolded before us. On the right, Skyline Drive snaked off through the trees. Most travelers drive and hike to experience Shenandoah National Park, a long, skinny ribbon of forest on a ridge west of Washington, D.C. Its only public road, Skyline Drive, follows the ridge from Milepost 0 at Front Royal, Virginia, south to Milepost 105 at Rockfish Gap. On one of America’s best scenic drives, no one can be in a rush at 35 mph. Traffic stopped to allow deer to pass, a doe and fawn. A spot of black on a grassy embankment caught my eye: a bear. Nearly 70 lookout points allow motorists to pull over and gaze at the Blue Ridge Mountains, part of the Appalachians, one of the world’s oldest mountain chains. Unlike the tall, craggy peaks in the Western United States, they’ve eroded to waves of forested slopes cloaked in a blue haze as the trees emit the hydrocarbon isoprene. At Milepost 56.4 we stopped to hike Bearfence Viewpoint on one of Shenandoah’s more than 500 miles of trails. When our path crossed the Appalachian Trail winding through the park, we exchanged smiles with a group of through-hikers, their heavy packs swinging in time with their walking sticks.
Driving time to Yosemite Valley takes two hours from Merced Regional Airport, 2.5 hours from Mammoth Yosemite Airport (summer and early fall) and Fresno Yosemite International Airport, 3.5 hours from Oakland International Airport and Sacramento International Airport and four hours from San Francisco International Airport. YARTS operates seasonal buses from Mammoth Lakes, Sonora and Fresno. When visiting Arches or Canyonlands, fly into tiny Canyonlands Regional Airport, 18.2 miles from Moab, Utah. It handles flights to/from Denver (DEN) and Salt Lake City (SLC). Moab Express operates a shared airport shuttle. Charlottesville-Albemarle Airport lies 31 miles from the south entrance of Shenandoah National Park. Washington’s Dulles International Airport lies 56 miles and Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport lies 70 miles from the north entrance. The park has no authorized shuttle providers; visitors arrange their own transportation to, from and within the park.
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DIVERSITY
Meeting the Needs Inclusivity improves the travel experience for people with autism. BY: EUGENIA LAZARIS additional time or assistance, England’s Gatwick Airport offers an identification system in which passengers receive a lanyard with a sunflower. Gatwick takes things a step further as the first airport to offer a sensory room for travelers who need a quiet, calming space to regroup away from the fast pace of an international airport terminal. The sensory room offers soft surfaces like floor cushions and bean bag chairs, dim lighting and digital wall displays with colorful visual features. Once travelers arrive at a destination, the supportive services remain important. Beaches Resorts by Sandals checks all the boxes as the first resort company to complete the rigorous Training and Autism Certification through the International Board of Credentialing and Continuing Education Standards. Each THOSE WITH AUTISM MAY FIND TRAVEL DAUNTING, SO employee must undergo 40 MANY AIRPORTS OFFER PROGRAMS DESIGNED TO LESSEN hours of autism sensitivity training, and the resorts offer STRESS AND ANXIETY. unique touches like friendly pets roaming the grounds and sensory toys and pillows for young guests. Beaches will also introduce utism can present its own unique challenges but should a new Sensory Stimulation Guide to help guests familiarize themselves never prevent individuals and their loved ones from Safe Space: with their surroundings and the services available. exploring the world through travel. Luckily, autismThe sensory room at Gatwick These family-friendly resorts in Jamaica and Turks and Caicos friendly travel is on the rise. As destinations and service Airport feature an all-inclusive model that incorporates childcare and proproviders discover the importance of inclusivity, each day opportuniPHOTO: © GATWICK grams that enhance every aspect of the stay, such as certified autism ties grow that cater to the unique needs of the autism spectrum. AIRPORT Those with autism may find travel daunting, so many airports offer kids’ camps. These programs let little ones interact with other children their age in an environment that fosters social skills, communication programs designed to lessen stress and anxiety. Miami International and sensory and emotional awareness. Airport, for example, offers an airport readiness and instruction According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, program, MIAair. This dress rehearsal program allows passengers one in 44 children born in 2010 was identified with autism spectrum with disabilities to prepare for upcoming trips in a safe and controlled disorder, while just one in 88 born in 2000 was identified. As these environment. Participants can attend a pre-travel session in which numbers continue to grow, so, too, will the need for inclusive travel they go through all the steps of an ordinary trip, from checking in to experiencing a mock flight. This teaches travelers what to expect so the options that accommodate all types of travelers. It will be exciting to see the ways in which more companies and destinations adapt to meet big day is a familiar experience. those needs. To help airport staff identify travelers with autism who may need
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AIRPORT UPDATE
Gateway to Tomorrow San Francisco International Airport welcomes the newest technology and guest amenities. BY MARY MELNICK
IN THE PROCESS OF CONSTRUCTING THE NEXT GENERATION OF FACILITIES, THE AIRPORT IS TRANSFORMING THE PROPERTY THROUGH FORWARD-THINKING PLANNING, BOLD DESIGN, CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY AND MORE.
Public Pride: Display at Harvey Milk Terminal 1 PHOTO: © SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
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an Francisco International Airport strives to bring exceptional service and safety to its guests, employees and service providers. It aims to deliver a quality guest experience and remain on the leading edge of environmental and social sustainability efforts while still operating an effective and successful business. Current renovations from the inside out will completely revolutionize air travel at SFO. The airport’s dedication to redefining tomorrow’s travel experience starts with a commitment to its travelers, airline partners, shopkeepers, restaurants and service providers as well as the community.
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In the process of constructing the next generation of facilities, the airport is transforming the property through forward-thinking planning, bold design, cutting-edge technology and more. The airport plans to create spacious boarding areas with views of the bustling runways. With the new facilities, SFO brings the excitement back to air travel while committing to remaining green and healthy. Modern materials and technology will help the airport achieve Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) status. One of the latest projects, the Harvey Milk Terminal 1 redevelopment plan, will change the guest experience with 25 gates (including three international swing gates), a stateof-the-art ticketing checkpoint, popular Bay Area restaurants and shops, and stunning pieces of custom art. The new terminal facilitates an easy transfer to the A gates in the International Terminal. The Harvey Milk Terminal, the first in the world named after an LGBTQ+ leader, honors the life and legacy of the first openly gay elected official in California’s history. An exhibit in the front lobby invites travelers to learn more about his contributions to San Francisco through photos and campaign materials that give a glimpse into his life and death. Although paused during COVID-19, construction just restarted, with completion expected by 2024. The International Terminal will see a revamp as well. The renovations will double the security screening checkpoint in order to reduce wait time, all while providing an easier navigation experience for guests. The project will also expand the screening checkpoints to 10 lanes and update areas to support future automated screening lanes. Improved amenities for passengers include more comfortable lounges; more power outlets; and updated restrooms including women’s, men’s, all-gender, companion care and nursery facilities.
ECOTOURISM
Staying Green Reconnect with nature at the world’s best eco-lodges. BY SUSAN B. BARNES
Nestled in Nature: Melimoyu Lodge (top), and Senda Monteverde Hotel (bottom) PHOTOS:© MELIMOYU LODGE, © SENDA MONTEVERDE HOTEL
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ravelers increasingly consider their environmental footprint when making travel plans, and with more eco-lodges popping up around the world, that proves easy to do. Here we take a look at a handful of the best eco-lodges around the world, starting in Costa Rica. The Central American country’s commitment to become carbon-neutral makes it one of the greenest countries on Earth. Senda Monteverde Hotel features 24 modern rooms and suites in bungalows dotted throughout the grounds, all with locally sourced amenities and open-air porches. The hotel’s proximity to the neighboring Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve and Aguti Wildlife Reserve makes hiking trails, bird-watching and immersing yourself in nature easily accessible.
In Upala, luxurious accommodations blend effortlessly with pristine landscapes at ORIGINS Lodge. Six spacious one-bedroom lodges and the three-bedroom Villa Vertigo feature private hot plunge pools and captivating views. Michelin-starred chef Jean-Luc L’Hourre oversees dining, working alongside Costa Rican chef Manuel Marroquin to create dishes that delight the tastebuds. Sacha Lodge, set on 5,000 acres in the heart of Ecuador’s Amazon Basin, proves ideal for nature enthusiasts, bird-watchers and adventurers alike. Join one of the local guides and discover the native wildlife, including eight species of monkeys, anteaters, three-toed sloths and much more. Back at the lodge, relax in luxurious accommodations and dine on extraordinary cuisine. When it opened in 1965, Outer Shores Lodge was one of the first eco-lodges on Canada’s Pacific Coast. Now the lodge looks forward to welcoming guests again this spring to Vancouver Island and the traditional territory of the Huu-ay-aht First Nation. Make yourself at home in the main lodge or in one of two cabins. In the Aysén Region of Chile you’ll find Melimoyu Lodge. Surrounded by temperate rain forests, rivers and lakes, the lodge offers a terrific destination for fly-fishing, hiking, horseback riding and other outdoor activities. Refresh in the comfortable luxury of one of the lodge’s four guestrooms and get ready for another day in Patagonian paradise. Greenough, Montana, 35 miles northeast of Missoula, boasts the green o, a sophisticated adults-only woodland hideaway with just 12 design-forward luxury “Haus” accommodations. The Tree hauses, elevated above the forest floor, include rooftop decks in the tree canopy. A range of outdoor pursuits and more than 100 miles of trails await exploration. MAY 2022 globaltravelerusa.com
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Guiding a Greener Future for Global Business Travel PROTECTING THE PLANET AND PEOPLE means fighting the disastrous impacts of climate change and will require global, collective, ambitious and urgent efforts. Sustainability is a key factor for business travel — not only for its return and recovery from the pandemic, but also for its future in keeping businesses and economies strong and moving around the world. “Business travel is under scrutiny for its climate impact and generates emissions, but it also generates human connections, economic opportunities, jobs and global cohesion. The world needs to travel for business — what’s critical is to find the balance and ways to do so sustainably. At GBTA, we aim to guide travel managers in their own sustainability journey and join forces with travel suppliers to accelerate the uptake of more sustainable business travel alternatives,” said Delphine Millot, Senior Vice President, Sustainability, GBTA. In November 2021, GBTA embarked on a sustainability journey to bring the industry together to address one of the biggest challenges the business travel sector — and society — face today. The association welcomed a broad spectrum of global travel industry companies — including airlines, hotels, car rental, travel management companies and booking technologies — who stepped forward as Founding Partners of its first-ever GBTA Sustainability Program.
In March 2022, GBTA welcomed ESG (Environmental, Social and Governance) executives from the Partner companies to serve on GBTA’s Sustainability Leadership Council. The Council advises on GBTA’s overall Sustainability Program in its mission to demonstrate the significant contribution that the business travel sector can make. Council members have deep sustainability experience and expertise and serve a one-year term to help guide GBTA’s efforts, define priority areas for collaborative and global action, and help raise the bar for the business travel industry overall. “The response GBTA has received to our initiatives shows that the business travel industry understands the immediate and important need to accelerate its focus on sustainability, including finding a balanced way forward in enabling people to travel for business while better protecting the planet,” said Suzanne Neufang, CEO, GBTA.
GBTA’s first-ever global benchmarking study across travel suppliers, travel buyers and policy and government stakeholders reveals the state of sustainability in the business travel industry along with actions to improve the sector’s environmental performance. Sustainability is also a major theme for the GBTA Convention, August 14–17, 2022, in San Diego. GBTA’s global Sustainability Committee is focusing on identifying and developing relevant tools and resources to educate and guide GBTA members. On November 8, GBTA will host its inaugural GBTA Sustainability Summit in Brussels, a one-day event that will bring together the business travel industry and policy leaders to outline concrete solutions to decarbonize the sector. Visit www.gbta.org/sustainability for more information. Companies interested in supporting the GBTA Sustainability Program can reach out to their GBTA contact or sustainability@gbta.org.
SUSTAINABILITY LEADERSHIP COUNCIL MEMBERS American Express Global Business Travel
BCD Travel
BWH Hotel Group Italia
Accor
American Airlines
BRUNE POIRSON Chief Sustainability Officer
JILL BLICKSTEIN Managing Director and Global Head of ESG
NORA LOVELL MARCHANT Vice President, Global Sustainability
KATHY JACKSON Vice President, Executive Chair Sustainability
Enterprise Holdings
Hertz
Hilton
HRS
KATIE LEONE Director, Corporate Social Responsibility
JEAN GARRIS HAND Vice President, Global ESG
MARTIN BIERMANN Chief Product Officer
CLAIRE CARSTENSEN Global Sustainability Manager
Southwest Airlines
Reed & Mackay a TripActions Company
CWT
Delta Air Lines
SARA DIGIESI Chief Marketing and Sustainability Officer, Italy
FRANÇOISE GRUMBERG Vice President, Global Responsible Business and Diversity & Inclusion
AMELIA DELUCA Vice President, Sustainability
IHG Hotels & Resorts
Marriot International
SAP Concur
TOWNSEND BAILEY Head of Corporate Responsibility, Americas
DENISE NAGUIB Vice President, Sustainability and Supplier Diversity, Global Operations
HENDRIK VORDENBAEUMEN Vice President, Product Strategy and Global Head of Sustainability
United Airlines
FOUNDING PARTNERS OF THE GBTA SUSTAINABILITY PROGRAM
STACY MALPHURS Vice President, Supply Chain Management and Environmental Sustainability
CHRIS TRUSS Sustainability Director
LAUREN RILEY Chief Sustainability Officer and Managing Director, Global Environmental Affairs
GBTA SUSTAINABILITY LEADERSHIP
MARK CUSCHIERI Council Chair, and Vice President, GBTA Board of Directors and Executive Director, Global Head of Travel, UBS
JENNY SABINEU Council Vice Chair, Chair GBTA Sustainability Committee and Manager, Travel Services - Salesforce
DELPHINE MILLOT Senior Vice President, Sustainability, GBTA
SPORTS
Take Me Out to the Ball Game Baseball fans around the world root for their home team. BY RICHARD NEWTON
Play Ball!: Dodger Stadium PHOTO: © FFOOTER | DREAMSTIME .COM
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he largest baseball stadium in the world is Dodger Stadium in Los Angeles, with a capacity of 56,000. But what of the second- and third-largest? They’re also Major League ballparks, right? Actually, no. While baseball never achieved the worldwide popularity of, say, soccer, strongholds exist around the world where huge, fanatical crowds gather to watch games. In Japan, for instance, Tokyo Dome boasts a capacity of 55,000. “The Big Egg” (as the Dome is popularly known) houses Japan’s most successful team, Yomiuri Giants. Then there’s Estadio Latinoamericano in Havana, Cuba, which just shades Tokyo Dome as the world’s second-largest baseball stadium and hosts Havana’s top team, Industriales. Other countries with large baseball stadiums include South Korea, Taiwan, Venezuela, Nicaragua, Mexico, the Dominican Republic and the Philippines. The basics of the game remain the same the world over, with subtle varia-
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tions. For example, in Japan the ball is slightly smaller than in Major League Baseball, and games may end in a tie. Greater differences exist within the crowds. Latino and Hispanic fans can be spontaneous and passionate, dancing and singing during an outing. In Japan you’ll observe a more regulated but no less intense fervor. Japanese crowds include dedicated cheering sections with a variety of chants for different stages of a game. Traveling American pros tend to agree Japanese fans are the loudest in the world. Japan’s most hallowed venue — Koshien Stadium near the city of Kobe — debuted in 1924 and has hosted the annual Japanese High School Championship ever since. Babe Ruth and Lou Gehrig played here in 1934, helping to bolster its reputation as the nation’s “Field of Dreams.” Aspiring Japanese players see it as a right of passage to scoop a souvenir handful of “holy dirt” from Koshien’s famous infield. Whether you rub shoulders with avid Japanese fans in one of their swanky stadiums or chill on the bleachers of an old stadium in Mexico or the Caribbean, the conclusion remains the same: America’s pastime has gone global.
Travel Transforms Life
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PREVIEW
Leisure Lifestyle Edition Coming in June, our Leisure Lifestyle Edition will explore honeymoon hot spots for 2022; the best travel-themed movies, TV and competition shows; the world’s most unique museums; where to visit small-town America … and much more. PHOTO: HONGQI ZHANG (AKA MICHAEL ZHANG) | DREAMSTIME.COM
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The best summer vibes in the heart of Los Angeles Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills 8555 Beverly Boulevard, 90048 Los Angeles Visit www.sofitel-los-angeles.com
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EGYPT TRAVEL COLLECTION
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Dr. Zahi Hawass
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2022/2023
“The best company to visit Egypt with”
Dr. Jehan Sadat
LATE FIRST LADY OF EGYPT
“You will never forget these tours”
Dr. Mostafa Waziri
Discover the Land of the Pharaohs with the world’s most famous archaeologist, Dr. Zahi Hawass, and Egypt’s Head of Antiquities, Dr. Mostafa Waziri. Enrich your experience by meeting with renowned scholars, museum directors, high-profile ministers, and even members of a former president’s family. You will have unparalleled access to Egypt’s greatest monuments. Imagine having the Great Pyramid to yourself or standing between the paws of the Great Sphinx. Enjoy a VIP tour of the Grand Egyptian Museum and a private visit to the Valley of the Kings. These and other experiences typically reserved for VIPs are now within your reach.
EGYPT’S HEAD OF ANTIQUITIES
DON’T JUST VISIT EGYPT – EXPERIENCE IT!
WITH ARCHAEOLOGICAL PATHS IT IS POSSIBLE. TOUR DATES AND MORE INFORMATION:
www.archaeologicalpaths.com contact@archaeologicalpaths.com
+1 917-724-2772
TOURS STARTING AT
$5,985