February 2020 Global Traveler

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February 2020

CARTAGENA p.64 CHRISTCHURCH p.70 DUBLIN p. 50 HONG KONG p.60 LOS CABOS p.74 NASHVILLE p. 56 NORWAY p.72 PARIS p. 58 TAIPEI p.66 ZANZIBAR p.62

THE WOMEN’S ISSUE Rise of the Female Solo Traveler p. 38

letter from the editor ®

HONORING WOMEN

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

I MUST ADMIT, I STRUGGLED some in the past with the concept of a women’s issue or articles about female travelers and their wants and needs because, as a woman and as a traveler, I think my basic wants and needs are no different than any other traveler’s. We’re all looking for comfort, safety, great amenities, exceptional cuisine, clean accommodations, hassle-free transit, mobility, working technology and more.

Any business traveler wants space to hang their clothes for a meeting. No traveler would feel okay with a broken hotel door lock, and no traveler should wander down a dimly lit street late at night in a strange city. All people want to visit beautiful destinations and meet interesting people. So, for me, it was important to produce a Women’s Issue that doesn’t marginalize or categorize women as a certain way but rather honors and acknowledges the impacts made by women in the travel industry and takes a look at the future and how travel can and will be made better for all people.

With that caveat out of the way, I am honored to welcome you to our first-ever Women’s Issue, a celebration of women in the industry. You’ll hear from women who had to hide their role at a hotel they owned GIRLFRIENDS’ GETAWAY: because a woman in the kitchen was unheard Kimberly Krol in Savannah’s Forsythe Park of at the time. Compare that to Chef Kaya PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL Peters, whom I watched recently at Marriott’s Masters of the Craft competition take on a number of other chefs, male and female, and shine because of her skills, with no one batting an eyelash at her gender. Nashville aims to honor women this year with a look back at the historic amendment allowing women to vote in 1920, marking the 100-year milestone as women this year prepare to cast their own ballots and make their voices heard in the presidential election. Of course, there’s always room to improve, to diversify, but women are making their mark on the industry.

I’ve been fortunate to be surrounded by strong female role models my whole life, starting with my mom and my maternal grandmother, and continuing today. I’m constantly in awe of the trailblazers and leaders I meet on a regular basis, and I work daily with the remarkable women of FXExpress Publications, Inc. and throughout the industry, from public relations agencies to airlines and hotels. In my personal life, I am surrounded by female friends who are successful professionals managing families, households and other obligations with ease. I draw confidence from each and every one of them. I hope I inspire them as they inspire me. And all of this together is what I hope we achieved with this Women’s Issue.

An intrepid bunch of fierce females, many of whom personally motivated, inspired and mentored me, helps us take you on a global journey this issue, from Hong Kong, Zanzibar, Norway and Dublin to Taipei, Los Cabos, Paris, Cartagena, Nashville and Christchurch.

And I’d be remiss not to also mention another milestone, as this month marks Global Traveler’s 16th anniversary. We debuted in February 2004; take a trip down memory lane with a photo retrospective on page 46. Join us next month as we fly over Cappadocia in hot air balloons and kick back in the Florida Keys. Until then, keep inspiring and traveling!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator MARY MELNICK mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

DEBRA BOKUR J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED JACK GUY KEVIN RYAN

KRISTY ALPERT SUSAN BARNES ELLEN CLARK BECCA HENSLEY MEGAN HILL SHARON KING HOGE DALE LEATHERMAN IRVINA LEW KELLY MAGYARICS KATIE MCELVEEN SHERYL NANCE-NASH IRENE RAWLINGS HOLLY RIDDLE

ete For compl t bios, visi m elerusa.co globaltrav

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

g Rebuildin g vastatin after de kes, New earthqua oldest Zealand’s d city establishe ing its is becom earn L t. es w ne t ou ab e or m rch Christchu 70. on page

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN CONTACT US

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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letter from the associate publisher ® ®

ON HER OWN THE RISE OF THE WOMAN traveler is here and prouder than ever. As I travel around the world, I see women conducting business with executive lunches at Spago in Los Angeles, celebrating a deal over cocktails at the bar at the Raffles Singapore and enjoying girlfriends’ getaways in Mexico City. Because of this, I could not be happier to share our first Women’s Issue!

Being part of Global Traveler for almost nine years has allowed me to travel the world and experience the most unique cities, restaurants and culture — often on my own. Traveling solo and as a woman takes a bit of courage, a bit of bravado, and often results in a whole of lot of fun.

It took years of traveling on solo business trips for me to get the courage to eat dinner on my own without being embarrassed and squeeze in stops at landmarks when able. Now I love getting the scoop on local eateries and make sure I plan to see at least one new museum or cultural site in new cities, even if I need to plan a meeting around it.

INTREPID TRAVELER: For years, when you heard the words Carly Allen at Raffles Hotel Singapore “women” and “travel” in the same sentence, PHOTO: © CARLY ALLEN you thought about cliché tropes like bachelorettes and honeymoon planning. Whether it’s the times we live in or the presence of more females in influencer roles, the industry heard the call, and women in travel are having a moment … a moment we know is here to stay.

Now more than ever, women occupy leadership roles throughout the travel industry, giving voice to unique changes and ideas. We explore this in our thoughtful features about women-led hotels around the world and female airport CEOs. Dear to my heart, our article on the rise of the female solo traveler gives credence to my own quest to become a more adventurous solo traveler. I recently took my first solo leisure trip to Maui where I enjoyed a sunrise snorkeling session in Molokini Crater and sat at the Andaz Maui bar for dinner to make new friends and get out of my comfort zone. It was one of the best and most freeing trips I’ve taken.

This issue also takes you on perfect girlfriends’ getaway cruises, with many cruise companies hopping on this trend for customized promotions and on- and offshore excursions to make the most memorable trips with your multi-gen family or friends.

I hope you enjoy this trip around the world through the eyes of the female traveler, and let’s head into the future of women in travel!

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales BILL LODZINSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | bill.lodzinski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 | stephanie.makowski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive CHRISTOPHER SAGER tel 267 364 5811 ext 204 | chris.sager@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive MARIANA ZENIZO tel: 52 55 6560 1152 | marzenizo@gmail.com Account Executive ANGELA PAGE tel 917 334 6572 angela.page@globaltravelerusa.com Production & Advertising Coordinator YASSER OGANDO tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

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CARLY ALLEN, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELER’S BEST TRIPS 2020 - ONLY US CITY

SISTERLY LOVE Harp & Crown

contents

February 2020 38

PHOTOS: © ARTUR BOGACKI - DREAMSTIME.COM., © ACCESS CULINARY TRIPS, © SAN IGNACIO RESORT HOTEL

50

42

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

38 Going It Alone An upswing in solo female travelers changes the landscape of the industry.

50 Destination One: Dublin Dublin pours on the charm to attract innovators and entrepreneurs.

60 9–5: Hong Kong Find all you need to impress clients amid Hong Kong’s cultural fusion.

42 Women at the Helm Women rise to leadership roles in the hospitality industry.

56 Stateside: Nashville Nashville sings the praises of groundbreaking women, past and present.

62 After 5: Zanzibar Spice up the night in Zanzibar’s Stone Town.

46 Sweet 16 Take a trip down memory lane as Global Traveler celebrates its 16th anniversary.

52 6

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ON THE COVER February 2020

CARTAGENA p.64 CHRISTCHURCH p.70 DUBLIN p. 50 HONG KONG p.60 LOS CABOS p.74 NASHVILLE p. 56 NORWAY p.72 PARIS p. 58 TAIPEI p.66 ZANZIBAR p.62

THE WOMEN’S ISSUE

58 MICE: Paris Women find the City of Light irresistible for professional meetings.

Rise of the Female Solo Traveler p. 38

COVER PHOTO: TOURIST IN ROME PHOTO: © ICLICKU - DREAMSTIME.COM

36 FEBRUARY 2020

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contents

February 2020 66

PHOTOS: © BILETSKIY - DREAMSTIME.COM, © GABRIEL MURAD - DREAMSTIME.COM, © DODOW, © LOS CABOS TOURIST BOARD

72

74

24

24

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

24 Technology 26 Wine & Spirits 28 Wealth 30 Spas 32 Golf 34 Chefs 36 Cruising 78 LGBTQ+ 81 Medical Tourism

10 Mail Call 14 News 16 Reviews 21 One on One oneworld 22 One on One Marriott International 80 Airport Update 82 Preview

64 Neighborhoods: Cartagena Cartagena’s once gritty neighborhood transforms to a hip hangout.

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FEBRUARY 2020

66 Friends & Family: Taipei Friendly and fascinating Taipei welcomes all with open arms.

70 Tours: Christchurch Explore a new Christchurch as it rebuilds from devastating earthquakes.

72 Bucket List: Norway Observe nature’s most dramatic sky show: the northern lights.

74 Kicking Back: Los Cabos Find sanctuary in Los Cabos’ blend of coastline, mountains and desert.

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2020 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

VOTED BEST LUGGAGE BRAND • 10 CONSECUTIVE YEARS

Thank you Global Traveler readers

mail call Q&A WITH KATIE SKRZEK, VICE PRESIDENT/DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Q&A WITH YASSER OGANDO, PRODUCTION AND

ADVERTISING COORDINATOR

In our December issue, vice president/digital director Katie Skrzek discussed her travel highlights from the year and additional locales for 2020. This inspired the questions: What were some of your favorite 2019 travel memories, and do you have any exciting trips planned for 2020? A few readers wrote in with responses:

JENNIFER REELING, via email 2019 was a busy year. I traveled on my own to four countries for work and a family trip over the summer to our friend’s house in Palm Springs.

ROBERT JACKSON, via email

One of the items on my bucket list is a solo trip to Cuba; however, I know this can be quite difficult if it’s your first time. Seasoned solo travelers, what are some exciting destinations and pro tips for first-timers?

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

LETTER TO THE PUBLISHER In response to a recent publisher’s letter discussing the GT Tested Reader Survey awards (held annually in December), an avid reader wrote in with some travel plans and recent experiences of his own: We recently returned from a whirlwind eight-day trip touring Iceland, coupled with a few days in London at The Trafalgar St. James (Curio Collection by Hilton) and some time in Paris at the

newly renovated (and wonderful) Hôtel du Louvre, a Hyatt property. Next up was Christmas in New York City and New Year’s in Florida. More exciting is our planned trip on the Queen Mary 2 in June coupled with a few weeks in Greece.

JONATHAN FUCHS, via email

BRILLIANT HOSPITALITY IN BEIJING Last month, frequent traveler,

CORRECTION CORNER In our November 2019 Cruising Issue, we displayed an image of the Costa Fortuna vessel (page 42) and inaccurately captioned the image “Cunard’s Costa Fortuna.” The image should have been captioned “Costa Cruises’ Costa Fortuna.”

avid reader and Globility Board member Mike Russo wrote in with compliments regarding his recent trip to Beijing: Last month I spent six nights on a quick getaway to Beijing. I decided to encamp at the Regent Beijing, my first stay with that brand since its acquisition by InterContinental Hotels Group. It was absolutely brilliant! Upon arrival I was happy to be upgraded to a large suite with Regent Club access on a high floor on the Forbidden City side of the hotel; the accommodations were superb. But the incredible staff’s attention to detail made this particular stay so memorable. This stay overlapped my birthday, and the attention from the staff definitely stood out from any other birthday stays at other hotels in the past. The Regent Club staff consistently said “Happy

PHOTO: © COSTA CRUISES

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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PHOTO: © YASSER OGANDO

Our 2020 travel plans are pretty light right now — just Jamaica for a wedding and Puerto Rico for a couple’s getaway — but there’s bound to be more on our list by the end of the year. Perhaps a cruise!

Solo female travel has significantly increased over the past few years.

Whether for business or leisure, some women find themselves craving the challenge, freedom, independence and confidence a solo trip can bring.

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ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

birthday” and knew my name on sight — at breakfast, afternoon tea and the nightly cocktail and canapé reception. Even walking back into the main hotel lobby mid-afternoon, the lobby greeter greeted me by name with birthday wishes. The Regent Club prepared an off-menu breakfast noodle dish that was to die for as a surprise in the morning, and a huge cake awaited in my suite when I got back at the end of the day. Regent definitely gained a future loyal customer during this stay!

MIKE RUSSO, via email

UNITED TRANSITION In our Dec. 17 issue of eFlyer USA, we discussed the major change in United’s leadership, impacting airline operations. The news of United transitioning CEO Oscar Munoz out by May 2020 and J. Scott Kirby (from the president’s seat) in as the new CEO inspired an avid reader and traveler to write in with thoughts: Thank you for the informative piece regarding United’s leadership transition. I have been pleased with Mr. Munoz’s tenure as CEO. I’m a frequent flyer in Houston, a United hub city, and I think customer support and in-flight crew training have been at their highest in recent years. With the recent rewards program changes, I fear a change for the worse coming. The changes implemented for 2020 reward only money spent, not as much miles actually traveled.

For example, a person booking one $10,000 flight “counts” more than one booking 10 flights costing $999 each. The airline claims the changes are to reward the most loyal travelers. I guess time will tell.

NEW AIRLINE MOXY In our Dec. 23, issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on the new regional carrier, Moxy, to operate out of Salt Lake City (SLC). The new airline is brought to the region by David Neeleman, who previously started Morris Air, WestJet, JetBlue and Azul Brazilian Airlines. This news inspired an avid traveler to write in: Years ago, when I worked for the BLM in Cody, Wyoming, air travel for work was, if not frequent, a fairly normal part of life, even as a bottomlevel management guy. For us, the regional hub was Denver, but Salt Lake’s role as a hub for business and recreation is super-obvious, and I doubt national carriers are looking after small markets. Since my time (I’m now in Vero Beach, a Florida resort town served by tiny Elite Air), the West has become infested with wealthy ski enclaves, Boise boomed, and Utah has been growing a nonnatural resources economy. There are lots of places five hours from Salt Lake City by road that have enough potential travelers to support air travel, at least seasonally, and a smart airline might be able to juggle planes between summer and winter demand. Neeleman has a history of creativity. Could he be thinking the Salt Lake City region is a little bit like New Zealand?

I live in Florida, where the cities are close enough together to make air travel impractical. We will soon have Virgin Trains operating from Orlando Airport and perhaps Disney to stops on the southeast coast from Stuart south through West Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miami … an interesting experiment.

DAVID MARTIN, via email

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND I

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

birthday” and knew my name on sight — at breakfast, afternoon tea and the nightly cocktail and canapé reception. Even walking back into the main hotel lobby mid-afternoon, the lobby greeter greeted me by name with birthday wishes. The Regent Club prepared an off-menu breakfast noodle dish that was to die for as a surprise in the morning, and a huge cake awaited in my suite when I got back at the end of the day. Regent definitely gained a future loyal customer during this stay!

MIKE RUSSO, via email

UNITED TRANSITION In our Dec. 17 issue of eFlyer USA, we discussed the major change in United’s leadership, impacting airline operations. The news of United transitioning CEO Oscar Munoz out by May 2020 and J. Scott Kirby (from the president’s seat) in as the new CEO inspired an avid reader and traveler to write in with thoughts: Thank you for the informative piece regarding United’s leadership transition. I have been pleased with Mr. Munoz’s tenure as CEO. I’m a frequent flyer in Houston, a United hub city, and I think customer support and in-flight crew training have been at their highest in recent years. With the recent rewards program changes, I fear a change for the worse coming. The changes implemented for 2020 reward only money spent, not as much miles actually traveled.

For example, a person booking one $10,000 flight “counts” more than one booking 10 flights costing $999 each. The airline claims the changes are to reward the most loyal travelers. I guess time will tell.

BROOKE CHODZINSKI, via email

12

globaltravelerusa.com

FEBRUARY 2020

NEW AIRLINE MOXY In our Dec. 23, issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on the new regional carrier, Moxy, to operate out of Salt Lake City (SLC). The new airline is brought to the region by David Neeleman, who previously started Morris Air, WestJet, JetBlue and Azul Brazilian Airlines. This news inspired an avid traveler to write in: Years ago, when I worked for the BLM in Cody, Wyoming, air travel for work was, if not frequent, a fairly normal part of life, even as a bottomlevel management guy. For us, the regional hub was Denver, but Salt Lake’s role as a hub for business and recreation is super-obvious, and I doubt national carriers are looking after small markets. Since my time (I’m now in Vero Beach, a Florida resort town served by tiny Elite Air), the West has become infested with wealthy ski enclaves, Boise boomed, and Utah has been growing a nonnatural resources economy. There are lots of places five hours from Salt Lake City by road that have enough potential travelers to support air travel, at least seasonally, and a smart airline might be able to juggle planes between summer and winter demand. Neeleman has a history of creativity. Could he be thinking the Salt Lake City region is a little bit like New Zealand?

I live in Florida, where the cities are close enough together to make air travel impractical. We will soon have Virgin Trains operating from Orlando Airport and perhaps Disney to stops on the southeast coast from Stuart south through West Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miami … an interesting experiment.

DAVID MARTIN, via email

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

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Top Airlines for 2020

At 10,000 miles with a flight time of 19 hours and 19 minutes, Qantas tested what may become the world’s longest flight, from London’s Heathrow Airport to Sydney (SYD), Australia. The test flight observed the effects of such a long flight on staff and passengers.

Modern aircraft are technologically advanced enough to endure ultra-long flights, but airlines still need to determine how the human body reacts to long hours in flight without a layover.

The 50 people on board the Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner included pilots, researchers from Australian universities, cabin crew and a few passengers. Crew data will be part of final discussions with the Civil Aviation Safety Authority to approve an extension to current operating limits required for these ultra-long-haul services.

Qantas also tested a non-stop flight from New York to Sydney, 500 miles shorter but requiring about the same time. Qantas indicated it has selected the Airbus A350-1000 as the preferred aircraft for the routes, fitted with an extra fuel tank. A final decision on an order is expected in March. qantas.com

Norwegian Nixes Denmark and Sweden Long-Haul Routes

WANT MORE NEWS ON THE GO? SIGN UP FOR GT NEWSLETTERS Global Traveler’s weekly newsletters keep you up to date with info on the go. Sign up for newsletters at globaltravelerusa.com/newsletter.

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As of January, low-cost long-haul carrier Norwegian Airlines no longer conducts non-stop flights from Copenhagen (CPH) and Stockholm (ARN) to New York (JFK), Los Angeles (LAX), and Bangkok (BKK) and Krabi (KBV) in Thailand. According to the airline, the cancellation of these routes is due to low demand and technical issues with the planes’ Rolls-Royce engines.

Norwegian will continue to operate flights from these cities to destinations in Europe, but for further locales from Scandinavia, Norwegian will put its sole focus on its hub in Oslo.

Despite the reasons Norwegian presented for cutting service, the situation begs the question as to whether the low-cost, long-haul model is failing yet another airline. In early 2019, WOW Air — which operated under a similar model — completely ceased operations due to its failure to make a profit on cheap airfare and high fuel costs. norwegian.com

PHOTOS: © QANTAS, © NARUEDOM YAEMPONGSA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © PAVOL STREDANSKY - DREAMSTIME.COM

Qantas Tests World’s Longest Flight

Results from AirlineRatings.com reveal the winner of the 2020 Airline Excellence Awards’ Airline of the Year, recognizing the top performers in the aviation industry, from airport lounges to firstclass cabins. The top-ranked airline for 2020 is Air New Zealand, which marks the sixth time the airline has won the award.

Contributing to Air New Zealand’s win is the airline’s commitment to sustainability: Air New Zealand reduced its carbon emissions by nearly 22 percent in the past 10 years by switching to biofuels and focusing on more efficient flight paths. It’s also transitioned its ground transportation vehicles from gas-powered to electric.

Singapore Airlines dropped from the top spot to second place but won first place in the first-class category. Rounding out the top five are All Nippon Airways, Qantas and Cathay Pacific.

Changes to Delta American Express Card

KLM Opens AMS Crown Lounge

Dutch carrier KLM Royal Dutch Airlines finally fully opened its flagship lounge in Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport.

Different areas of the lounge debuted in phases during the past year, but as of late November all areas of the lounge are open to travelers.

The Crown Lounge encompasses approximately 73,000 square feet with sitting capacity for up to 1,000 visitors — twice the size of the original lounge.

The Crown Lounge décor celebrates Dutch scenery including the cities, the sea, the mountains and the sky. It boasts a 360-foot light wall with LED lighting, a Heineken bar, an area for live cooking demonstrations, 20 free showers, sleeping cabins (for an extra fee) and work areas.

Visitors to the Crown Lounge can dine at Blue Restaurant, conceptualized by a Michelinstarred chef. The premium restaurant is not included in the lounge amenities; diners must pay for their meals.

delta.com americanexpress.com

Perks of Norwegian Credit Card

International Airlines Group announced in late October it plans to purchase Air Europa, a Spainbased airline owned by Globalia. With a price tag of $1.2 billion, this acquisition will expand IAG’s reach to the Caribbean islands and Latin America.

London-based IAG — which also owns Spanish airlines Iberia and Vueling — hopes to propel Air Europa’s hub at Madrid–Barajas International Airport into a more powerful position among European airports, which include the major players Amsterdam (AMS), Frankfurt (FRA), London Heathrow and Paris Charles de Gaulle. From Madrid travelers will have more options to connect to Latin America — and possibly Asia — in the future.

Air Europa will join other European airlines in the IAG alliance such as British Airways, Ireland’s Aer Lingus and Level. The purchase reflects a larger consolidation plan expected to continue this year.

Fans of Norwegian’s affordable international flights can now reap even more benefits, thanks to the airline’s new Norwegian Reward MasterCard.

New cardholders who spend $500 with the card in their first 90 days of membership will earn $50 in Norwegian CashPoints, which travelers can rack up and use to book future flights or to pay for luggage fees, seat selection, insurance or other flight-related expenses. Members who spend $20,000 with their card in one year will earn $100 in CashPoints.

Using the card for dining and grocery purchases, as well as for all Norwegian Air purchases, will add 2 percent of the amount spent as CashPoints to members’ balances. All other transactions result in 1 percent CashPoints.

Cardholders also can take advantage of priority boarding for all Norwegian flights, as well as no international fees and no annual fees.

iairgroup.com

norwegian.com

aireuropa.com

mastercard.com

klm.com

IAG Buys Air Europa

PHOTOS: © KLM, © DELTA, © NORWEGIAN

Travelers who carry one of Delta’s SkyMiles American Express credit cards can enjoy a host of new benefits.

The Blue card — the entry-level card for Delta SkyMiles members — no longer carries foreign transaction fees (which used to be 2.7 percent for all international transactions), and dining points doubly increased.

Delta’s new Gold card costs $99 per year, and cardholders earn double miles for dining and groceries, as well as $100 toward a Delta flight each year so long as they spend $10,000 in one year.

Carriers of the Platinum card now earn triple miles on hotels and Delta purchases, as well as a $100 credit toward Global Entry or TSA PreCheck membership.

And finally, the top-tier Reserve card increased its annual membership fee to $550 but includes access to Centurion lounges, two annual guest passes to Delta Sky Club lounges and complimentary upgrades.

FEBRUARY 2020

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FOUR SEASONS MEXICO CITY Reviewed by Carly Allen

Guest Quarters: The first thing I noticed upon walking into my fifth-floor executive suite was a feeling of comfort and contemporary class. Warm, pristine white carpeting with red ribbon designs led into a well-lit hallway with dark wood doors and closet space plus a full bar. Beyond, the full room came into view, framed with large windows brimming with natural light and offering a coveted view of the gorgeous courtyard filled with flowers, lush plants and a fountain. The windows opened, and I made a point of keeping them open while in the room to enjoy the sounds and fresh air. The king-sized bed provided a great night’s sleep, while a lounge area with a couch

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and ottoman also included a large desk with plenty of electrical outlets I found handy during my stay.

The large bathroom featured warm, cream-colored marble floors and a large vanity with abundant lighting. The spa tub was large, although the stand-alone glass-enclosed shower proved a bit tight. I appreciated the L’Occitaine products for guests.

Services/Amenities: The property makes a perfect place for business meetings or a special outing with friends, as it offers a bit of everything. Every morning I stopped for a quick bite at Pan Dulce, the coffee shop and bakery. I loved being able to take my coffee to the veranda tables before a day of meetings.

Il Becco, an all-day eatery located in the courtyard, is beautifully decorated with colorful tile flooring and warm lighting. I suggest coming for dinner to experience the atmosphere and lovely Italian cuisine. Also be sure to try the well-known and lively Fifty Mils, a gastro bar with signature cocktails like Billy the Kid and Frijolito. With leather couches, plush club chairs and seating spilling out onto the courtyard, it provides the perfect place to end your evenings.

The city hotels don’t often have room for outdoor pools, but the Four Seasons boasts a rare rooftop pool and deck for guests to enjoy an afternoon of relaxation. A full gym is available, but I recommend an early-morning jog up and down Reforma if the weather permits for a bit more sightseeing and immersion.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The local contemporary and folk art throughout the hotel sets a unique atmosphere for guests. ◆ You must experience dining in the courtyard, either early morning with a coffee to hear the fountain or with a cocktail outside Fifty Mils. ◆ The location in the heart of the city lets you conveniently enjoy dining, museums and business.

FOUR SEASONS MEXICO CITY Av. Paseo de la Reforma 500 Colonia Juarez, 06600 Mexico City, Mexico tel 52 55 5230 1818 fourseasons.com

PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS MEXICO CITY

Arrival/Check in: I arrived in Mexico City on a sunny late afternoon and zipped through light traffic from Benito Juarez International Airport to the heart of Mexico City, Paseo de la Reforma. Four Seasons Mexico City sits in the middle of the bustling area; but once you arrive in the covered driveway, you are transported into a sense of calm, art and luxury.

Guests entering the black and white marbled lobby are greeted by a giant arrangement of fresh flowers which scents the entire area. Just beyond that, a friendly receptionist welcomed me and checked me in within minutes. As I walked to the elevators, I noticed the lobby held lots of distinct areas, with seating in front of a fire, marbled work spaces and lounge chairs busy with guests — a great place to get some work done or even have a quick meeting.

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THE SAGAMORE RESORT Reviewed by Angelique Platas

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

PHOTOS: © THE SAGAMORE RESORT

Arrival/Check-In: After driving two hours north to Lake George, New York, toward The Sagamore, we followed the directions to a stretch of road loaded with quaint shops and restaurants. We had arrived in Bolton Landing. We walked around town and enjoyed some coffee and shopping as we had made great time and arrived a bit early for check-in.

Once our rooms were ready, we headed over a small bridge and entered what is essentially The Sagamore’s own private island on Lake George. Our Opal breakfast offer included complimentary valet parking, but we opted for self-parking and grabbed our bags. After about five minutes with the concierge, we received homemade cookies and fresh-pressed apple cider. It couldn’t get more quintessentially fall.

Guest Quarters: But then we saw the rooms. They were rich with hardwood furniture, deep tones and possessed a homey feel. Our room opened into a living room with a few comfortable chairs, a television and medium-sized refrigerator. In the bedroom we found two queen-sized beds, another television and a beautiful bathroom. The old-fashioned touches and flooring made the space large enough for two to get ready at the same time.

The bedroom windows opened to the resort property, filled

with Adirondack chairs, swimming pools and stunning views of the lake. Seeing everyone below in their sweaters, holding hot drinks and taking in the views made me want to run right back down to the lake.

Services/Amenities: The Sagamore is reminiscent of an old-school, members-only club-meets-summer camp. The resort fee includes everything guests could want: tennis and basketball courts; an expansive kids club and rec center; golf; one of the largest hotel gyms I’ve seen (with one coveted Peloton bike); indoor and outdoor swimming pools; indoor and outdoor hot tubs; and daily, complimentary boat tours of Lake George on The Morgan. Our particular stay included daily breakfast at the buffet, but guests can choose from a variety of offers for all dining needs.

You can enjoy several dining establishments and activities throughout your stay; just check with the front desk about timing for each, as they may vary by season. With Champagne toasts in the lobby at 4 p.m., live music in the evenings and s’more roasting later in the night at the fire pit by the rec center, there’s a good chance guests can come with a few friends and leave with even more.

◆ Summer may be the high season for guests, but fall and the holidays are a best-kept secret. Winter vacancies are limited, so check the website for availability. ◆ Make reservations for dinner!

Even in the off-season, the restaurants are popular. ◆ The Sagamore presents a real sense of community, from the staff to the guests. Everyone seems friendly and as if they know each other. ◆ We took our server’s advice for a local hike and enjoyed some of the best views of Lake George in the area.

THE SAGAMORE RESORT 110 Sagamore Road Bolton Landing, NY 12814 tel 518 644 9400 thesagamore.com

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THE RESORT AT PAWS UP Reviewed by Carly Allen

Guest Quarters: Kaw Point sits on a hill surrounded by tall pines and overlooks part of the valley and grazing land of the resort, providing views of the bison on property and snowcapped mountains in the distance. The front porch, about 50 feet long, offers rocking chairs, a small couch and soft lighting for guests to take in the scenery.

I spent every morning there bundled up with my coffee.

The cabin’s main living room has a soaring ceiling due to the loft, with wood beams framing the space and giant windows. A large stone fireplace serves as the heart of the space, surrounded by true Western-chic furniture of overstuffed brown leather couches, wing-backed chairs and a desk. The fully functioning kitchen includes a state-of-the-art stove and oven, a microwave and an 18-bottle wine cooler next to a table. We dined in several times, and they fully plate each meal upon delivery.

The estate has two master suites with the same attention to detail in each; we chose the front room for its full views. Fitting with the Western-chic theme, the tall, oversized king bed is comfortable but also offers plenty of outlets nearby (ideal for plugging in my phone and Kindle). Leather-bound lights above the bed make perfect soft reading lights. His-and-her closets equipped with robes and soft slippers stand on each side of the small hallway leading into an expansive bathroom with a stone-topped double vanity and a large window framing the outside view. A large Jacuzzi tub and two-person, glass-enclosed shower remind you this is a true luxury vacation.

The loft boasts a living room/game room, two full beds and a full master with a bathroom. Around the back of the house are lounge chairs, barbecue and our second-favorite spot of the house: the hot

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tub. For someone from Los Angeles, the experience of being in a Jacuzzi late at night when it’s snowing proved surreal and unforgettable.

Services/Amenities: Expect top-notch, all-inclusive dining at the resort. Besides the snacks and drinks provided at your camp or cabin each day, heading into the Village is a delight. Breakfast and lunch are served at Trough, where you choose from either a full menu or made-to-order and buffet-style eats near the Ranch Table. I loved the Brekki smoothie, part of the smoothie program. However, madeto-order omelets were also a hit. Lunch at Trough was great as well; I enjoyed the sandwiches, but the homemade chili with cornbread croutons was amazing for a chilly day.

Pomp, the resort’s fine-dining restaurant, opens in the evenings, offering either a five-course tasting menu or choice of prime meats, fish and rich soups — all in front of the roaring fire. The experience was high-end, but you don’t need to dress up too much; lots of diners wear casual dress with jeans and sweaters, something I appreciated after a busy day. We also stopped daily at Tank, the casual full bar with local beers and spirits.

The resort hosts dozens of activities based on the seasons, from fly fishing to canoeing and ATV tours to cattle drives. My goal when I travel is to get out of my comfort zone, so our first day we chose a three-hour ATV tour through the mountains and creeks on and off the property. On Day Two I met Bug, aka Love Bug, a giant of a horse they say was 17 hands tall, for my trail ride. Our guide, Kate, was a pleasure and entertained us with stories as we rode down to the creeks and through the meadows. Horseback riding is a must for all guests, and I wish we did another day of it.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The Paws Up property offers a special experience with its rolling hills, spiraling trees and roaming deer and bison. ◆ The staff was friendly and had a passion to share the outdoors with each guest. ◆ The all-inclusive dining and drinks made each meal easy and fun to try new things.

THE RESORT AT PAWS UP 40060 Paws Up Road Greenough, MT 59823 tel 406 244 5200 pawsup.com

PHOTO: © THE RESORT AT PAWS UP

Arrival/Check-In: This past fall I took a much-needed vacation to somewhere I’ve never been before but have heard about for years: Montana. We chose The Resort at Paws Up outside of Missoula, as it blends miles of open land and outdoor activities with luxury accommodation and service.

Flying from Los Angeles (LAX), we stopped in Portland (PDX) for the short hop to Missoula (MSO) and arrived late afternoon. Paws Up offers free transportation from MSO for the 40-minute drive to the resort, and a great Paws Up team member named Trey picked us up in a new Lexus SUV, giving us insight into the towns we passed and the overall scoop on the resort. We saw him again later during a pick-up from an activity and continued like old friends.

We arrived at the Lewis & Clark Reception barn for a quick check-in and overview of our scheduled activities. The reservations team contacts guests a few weeks prior to arrival to help book activities and dining, giving suggestions so you are all set with your plan before arriving. This helped with packing! Staff drove us to the Wilderness Estates, about seven minutes from the Village, to our cabin called Kaw Point. The estates are the larger, three-bedroom cabins great for large families, while Timber and Meadow homes are just as exclusive but for smaller families or even couples.

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AIR CANADA

LONDON (LHR) TO TORONTO (YYZ)

Reviewed by Stephanie Makowski

PHOTOS: © AIR CANADA

On the Ground: I arrived at Heathrow Airport after a trip to London for the World Travel Market Conference. As I arrived at the Air Canada check-in counter, the helpful staff directed me to the security checkpoint. Once through the line, and a bit strapped for time, I walked quickly to my gate, where an extremely kind concierge service member greeted me. She asked how my trip was and said she had been watching for me so she could assist me with boarding early to ensure a calm and easy departure. She had assisted me earlier that week when I processed through security from Toronto to London, so it was nice closing my trip with a friendly face. She escorted me onto the plane and to my seat in the beautiful Signature Class cabin of the Boeing 787-8, introducing me to the flight attendant who would be directing cabin staff during my flight. I thanked the concierge for her hospitality throughout my journey. Experiencing what the Air Canada Super Elite-level members enjoy as features of their commitment to the brand helped me understand the appeal of retaining that status.

Pre-Flight: The Signature Class offers modern and spacious seating. The layout provided privacy and ample room to be comfortable whether one was seated at the inside or window side of the main aisles. The flight attendant offered juice, sparkling water or Champagne. (I opted for the Champagne.) I got situated in my seat and checked out the touchscreen menu and the provided headset and settled in for takeoff.

In-Flight: Once airborne we selected our main entrée. I opted for the lamb filet served with creamy fennel sauce, roasted potatoes, pumpkin and broccoli. The starters to this meal were delicious prawns and a garden salad, and for dessert I enjoyed the fresh fruit. Once I finished my meal, I checked to see if I could get started on some emails. Unfortunately, the WiFi was not functional on this flight. Air Canada was in the process of retrofitting these aircraft with the most up-to-date WiFi, but due to the MAX grounding over the past year could not take this 787 out of commission to update the technology. It all worked out, though, as I was able to still get some work done before taking a nap.

This flight departed mid-morning London time and would land in Toronto in late afternoon/early evening. I was quite comfortable during my nap, lying completely flat with a blanket and pillow of excellent quality. The restrooms in the businessclass cabin were clean and spacious. Once we were about an hour or so from our arrival in Toronto, I enjoyed afternoon tea accompanied by delicious sandwiches. I spent that time watching a film and relaxing. After our smooth landing in Toronto, a concierge team member greeted me and directed me to the Maple Leaf Lounge, where I enjoyed a break and snack between flights.

The flight, product and service were exceptional from start to finish. It is no wonder Global Traveler named Air Canada Airline of the Year in 2019. As Air Canada says in its advertisements, “Travel like a Canadian.” I can tell you, I will be again!

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Build loyalty and miles with this award-winning airline to become an Air Canada Altitude Super Elite 100K member.

Receive faster check-in and boarding, assistance with flight changes and transfers, and escorts between terminals and gates to ensure a seamless journey. ◆ Dine on Demand gives travelers the option to schedule when they eat to best suit their needs.

Simply inform the flight attendant when you order your meal at the beginning of the flight. ◆ Save room for the world-class catering on board. I skipped breakfast in order to be hungry for my flight; the culinary options are a taste bud delight!

AIR CANADA aircanada.com

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THE WATER CLUB HOTEL AT BORGATA Reviewed by Katie Skrzek

Guest Quarters: We made our way to our room on the 30th floor. Our king room featured all of the standard guestroom amenities as well as complimentary WiFi, robes, a large couch and desk. The bathroom boasted a walk-in shower with both standard and rainfall showerheads.

We were visiting Atlantic City to attend the annual food and wine festival, Savor Borgata. The event took place in the adjacent property, a brief walk from The Water Club, connected by an indoor walkway. This made for an incredibly convenient experience accessing the event while enjoying a stay at the quieter, luxury property. Plus, we didn’t need to step foot outside during the cold weekend.

Even though we were attending the food festival, we did take advantage of The Water Club’s in-room dining. The menus, crafted by celebrity chef Geoffrey Zakarian, offer imaginative and refined cuisine delivered directly to your door. We enjoyed

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breakfast the first morning of our stay. We both ordered eggs accompanied by rosemary home fries, arugula and fennel salad and grilled country bread, plus juice and coffee. Our meal arrived much more quickly than the estimated 30 minutes. All parts of the meal were perfectly prepared. It was one of the best room service breakfasts I’ve experienced.

Services/Amenities: All guests of The Water Club have easy access to the amenities of the Borgata, including its dining options, event space, casino and nightlife. The Water Club itself features 18,000 square feet of meeting space, plus boutique retail shops.

There are seven pools on site, both indoor and outdoor. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to utilize the pools during our stay.

However, we did take advantage of the fitness center on the 33rd floor. The numerous cardio machines included treadmills and ellipticals, with free weights and weight machines also available along with bottled water and towels. With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the city and the Atlantic Ocean, the view is perhaps the best feature. The property’s two-story spa, located on the 32nd and 33rd floors, sits conveniently nearby.

When our stay was over, the check-out process and car retrieval at the valet went smoothly. Within no time, we were on our way home, more relaxed and still full from the fantastic food of the festival.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Take advantage of the stellar 24-hour room service menu, crafted by celebrity chef Geoffrey Zakarian. ◆ Pack your bathing suit to take a dip in one of the property’s seven pools. With indoor, outdoor and heated options, you can enjoy the pools year-round. ◆ Spend time in the fitness center, located on the 33rd floor, for beautiful views of the city and ocean while you work out.

THE WATER CLUB AT BORGATA 1 Borgata Way Atlantic City, NJ 08401 tel 609 317 1000 theborgata.com/hotel/the-waterclub

PHOTOS: © THE WATER CLUB HOTEL AT BORGATA

Arrival/Check-In: We arrived at The Water Club Hotel at Borgata in Atlantic City, New Jersey, for our two-night stay and drove directly to valet parking. After the swift drop-off process, we took the escalator one flight up to the lobby to check in. The property is located steps away from the Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa. With no one ahead of us in line, we were checked in and on our way to our room in no time.

one on one

GHIM-LAY YEO Vice President, Corporate Communications, oneworld to know them better, get updates, bring our message to the airlines and meet the employees.

What is your favorite aspect of the job? Working with the people; as the newest member of the team, it’s a treat to get to know everyone: people of different cultures, backgrounds and at different stages of their lives and careers.

What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? I moved from Singapore to Washington, D.C., in 2011. I was transferred with my previous company, in my late 20s, and I didn’t want to turn down the transfer and potentially regret it. I was initially financially worse off, but it was such a big decision that was worth it in the end.

Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? Claudia Sender, who previously served as the only woman on the executive team at LATAM — and Latin America has a maledominated culture. She was outspoken about women having a better seat at the table.

PHOTO: © GHIM-LAY YEO

THE BASICS Name: Ghim-Lay Yeo Title: Vice president, corporate communications Company, city: oneworld; New York, New York First job: When I was 18 years old, as a telemarketer for a financial services company, I had to cold-call people, which is never pleasant.

Where to next: Madrid, Spain A LITTLE BIT MORE What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? Lucy Liu, because she’s a bad ass and a good actress.

What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? I’d be a novelist writing fiction.

What is your favorite book, movie or television show? Little Miss Sunshine is my favorite movie; it’s funny, and the dark humor appeals to me, but it’s also a good movie about family.

What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? Bessie Coleman — she was the first African American and Native American female pilot, carving out a space in a field still dominated by men today.

THE BUSINESS What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? I’ve been organizing our town halls, an initiative we continued from our 20th-anniversary year in 2019. We’re visiting member airlines to get

AS A TRAVELER Tell us about a travel nightmare: When I lived in D.C., I booked a flight to Boston in March. I don’t know why, because I typically don’t, but I checked a bag. In line for security, my flight was canceled. I was put on the next flight, but my bag went on an earlier one. My next flight canceled. It wasn’t worth it for a short trip to rebook again, and it then took me two days to track down my bag, calling every number I could think of. Four days later, I picked up my bag at the airport in D.C. Share a comical travel experience: I extended a business trip to include a solo trip to Machu Picchu. Singapore is a tiny country, and I rarely run into Singaporeans on my travels. On the train ride back from Machu Picchu, I was among an entire tour of Singaporeans — it was serendipity!

What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? It depends on where I’m going, but mostly planes. It’s the easiest, most convenient option, especially as the train infrastructure in the United States isn’t great.

What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? In my previous career as a journalist, I was booked on a Singapore Airlines flight. I was sick a few days prior to the trip and not sure I’d even make it; I had no appetite on my businessclass flight, and the cabin crew noticed and expressed concern. A flight attendant brought me green tea throughout the flight, and I felt much better upon landing.

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one on one

LISA HOLLADAY Global brand leader, The Ritz-Carlton, Ritz-Carlton Reserve, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts and Bulgari

with? Can I have a dinner party? I’d pick Shakespeare, Barack and Michelle Obama, and César Ritz.

A LITTLE BIT MORE What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? I’d say Reese Witherspoon; she’s a brilliant actress, a smart businesswoman, multidimensional and dynamic. Plus, she’s from the South, like me!

What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? An actress! When I was younger, I actually studied to be a Shakespearean actress.

What is your favorite book, movie or television show? I love to read; at the moment, one of my favorite books is Where the Crawdads Sing.

Favorite movie is The Wizard of Oz, and for television, right now it’s Outlander.

What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner

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AS A TRAVELER Tell us about a travel nightmare: I travel a lot, so I’ve had quite a few! I was heading to the West Coast on New Year’s Eve, but due to fog in San Francisco, we were dumped in Las Vegas. Las Vegas on New Year’s Eve means no hotels and no flights out, so I rented a car with two strangers and drove to San Francisco.

Share a comical travel experience: Every year we drive from D.C. to the South for the holidays with our two dogs, one 70 pounds, the other 60 pounds. With the dogs, luggage, presents and more, it’s a perfect set-up for comedy.

What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? Each method has its charms, but I’m most often on airplanes. I’m looking forward to becoming a big fan of cruising with The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection.

What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? As with nightmares, I’ve had many examples of genuine care in all my travel. After being gone for a week, I was really sick and traveling from London to Rome. The St. Regis Rome took exceptional care of me, bringing me pajamas, tea and medicine.

PHOTO: © ST. REGIS HOTELS & RESORTS

THE BASICS Name: Lisa Holladay Title: Global brand leader, The Ritz-Carlton, Ritz-Carlton Reserve, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts and Bulgari Company, city: Marriott International; Washington, D.C. First job: Cashier at a grocery store at 16 years old Where to next: Jordan

THE BUSINESS What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? We recently opened the 100th The Ritz-Carlton in Perth, Australia. We are also looking at the family programming available at St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, as it is important to take into account our littlest travelers.

What is your favorite aspect of the job? The people, including my team, and the travel. I don’t love the jet lag, but I love to travel and meet new people.

What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? Leaving the safety of a job in the automotive space and making the move to the hospitality industry Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? Herve Humler — he hired me and is the founder of The Ritz-Carlton brand, as well as a master of luxury hospitality and an amazing and kind human being.

2020 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot

Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers__________________________________ Best Airline for . . .

Business Class___________________________________________________________________

International First Class_________________________________________________________

Domestic First Class_____________________________________________________________

Onboard Service ________________________________________________________________ Lounges _________________________________________________________________________

Flight Attendants________________________________________________________________

Flight Attendant Uniforms ______________________________________________________

Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs

Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________

Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion_______________________________________________________________

Award Redemption______________________________________________________________

Customer Service _______________________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . .

Africa_____________________________________________________________________________

Australia and New Zealand______________________________________________________

Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________________ China____________________________________________________________________________

Eastern Europe__________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ Mexico___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East _________________________________________________________________

North America___________________________________________________________________

North Asia (excluding China)____________________________________________________

The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . .

Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . .

Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_________________________________________________________________

North America___________________________________________________________________

South America___________________________________________________________________

International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs

Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World___________________________________

Elite-Level Program____________________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________________

Award Redemption____________________________________________________________

Customer Service_____________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . .

Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________

South Korea___________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . .

Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________

Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program ______________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

State

ZIP Code Email

technology

PROBLEM SOLVERS Customizable devices adapt to your individual needs. BY JACK GUY

AVA FERTILITY TRACKER Fertility tech is a growing market, with a number of apps now able to track the menstrual cycle based on user inputs. Ava goes one step further and provides a unique dedicated bracelet that tracks five common signs of fertility, with capabilities backed by scientific research. You only need to wear the Ava while you sleep to collect data on fertility, sleep, stress levels and heart rate, and the accompanying app ensures the best chance of conceiving.

From $299. avawomen.com

APPLE AIRPODS PRO The long-awaited update to Apple’s wireless earbuds brings noise cancellation and water resistance to the already highly popular package. You can now wear your AirPods while exercising, and a customizable fit means they will stay in place, too. Expect to get around 4.5 hours of playback per charge, with the battery topped up each time you pop them back in the wireless charging case.

Sound quality is much improved, and the lightweight design means you can wear them all day without discomfort. $249. apple.com

GOOGLE PIXELBOOK GO Google’s latest Chromebook brings a raft of new features to the table and starts at just $649. However, upgrading to the $1,349 model is certainly worth it, with 16GB of RAM, 256GB internal storage and a 13-inch 4K Ultra HD touch display. All of these features come in a package just 13mm thick that weighs in at two pounds, offering great portability for travelers. It’s available in black and Google’s “Not Pink.” From $649. google.com

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PHOTOS: © DODOW, © AVA, © APPLE, © GOOGLE

DODOW Sleeping problems can have serious effects on your health and productivity, but many people are wary of relying on medication.

Dodow uses lights and a metronome to get you to sleep without chemicals. Simply breathe along with the blue light as it fades in and out, making use of breathing techniques to help you get some rest. Since the Dodow is about the same size as a drink coaster, you can easily take it with you on your next trip. No more lying awake watching the clock tick ever closer to your morning meeting. $59. mydodow.com

wine & spirits

EXPRESSIVE EFFERVESCENCE The sparkling wines of southern England surprise and delight. BY EUNICE FRIED

THE GRAPE BASE IS VIRTUALLY the same as Champagne — Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. They are made by the same two-fermentation Champagne method. And, like Champagne, the finished result is a sparkling wine. One difference, though: This bubbly is made not in France’s Champagne region but in the southern part of England. So much is English sparkling wine a growing industry, the majority of wine currently produced in England’s 450 wineries is now sparkling.

To test the quality of English sparklers, I held a small tasting of six. The result was fascinating.

Chapel Down Classic Brut NV — an elegant, pale-shaded sparkler with tiny, tight bubbles — proved a well-made, well-structured, clean wine. It left a pleasant, refreshing finish.

The flavors of Ridgeview Bloomsbury NV were a bit deeper with small, lively bubbles and an elegant aroma: a classic, delicate sparkler.

Nyetimber Classic Cuvée Brut, NV, expressed still deeper flavors and a fuller body, more complexity and more weight.

A sturdy, well-balanced wine with well-balanced acidity, it’s a classic sparkler very similar to Champagne.

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As befits a wine made totally of white grapes, Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs 2014 was pale, almost colorless, with bright, especially active bubbles: a vivacious wine with a positive mouth feel.

Delicious and powerful, Gusbourne Brut Reserve 2014 inspired one of the tasters to ask if I snuck a Champagne into the tasting to fool them. No, it was simply a bigger, more forward English sparkler.

Chapel Down Three Graces 2014 displayed the largest bubbles of the group, and they were aggressive as well.

This complex wine boasts a body of medium weight and exceptional structure although with a rather short finish.

Overall, England’s sparkling wines, all new to the tasters, both surprised and pleased them. As for prices, they range about $40–65.

Is France’s Champagne region concerned about English competition? Perhaps more in action than in words. In 2015 the 276-year-old, highly respected Champagne house of Taittinger bought vineyard land in England and in 2017 planted its first English vineyards. When they mature, it will make its first English sparkler.

SPARKLERS

(Left to right) Chapel Down Classic Brut NV, Ridgeview Bloomsbury NV, Nyetimber Classic Cuvée Brut NV, Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs and Brut Reserve, and Chapel Down Three Graces PHOTOS: © CHAPEL DOWN, © RIDGEVIEW, © NYETIMBER, © GUSBOURNE, © CHAPEL DOWN

of ttle A bo e pagn Cham ains cont tely xima o r p ap illion 49 m les. bubb

Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Benefits

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wealth

GET READY Consider these tax tips as you prepare for retirement. BY KEVIN RYAN, CPA

if your income equals more than $34,000 each year.

RETIREMENT IS A WHOLE NEW phase of life. You’ll experience many new things, and you’ll leave others behind — but what you won’t avoid is taxes. If you’ve followed the advice of retirement plan consultants, you’re probably saving in taxadvantaged retirement accounts. These types of accounts defer taxes until withdrawal, and you’ll probably withdraw funds in retirement. Also, you may have to pay taxes on other types of income: Social Security, pension payments or salary from a parttime job. With that in mind, it makes sense to develop a retirement income strategy.

CONSIDER WHEN TO START TAKING SOCIAL SECURITY. The longer you wait to begin your benefits (up to age 70), the greater your benefits. Remember, though, that currently up to 85 percent of your Social Security income is considered taxable

THINK ABOUT YOUR WITHDRAWAL SEQUENCE. Generally speaking, you should take withdrawals in the following order: Start with your required minimum distributions from retirement accounts. You’re required to take these, after all.

Since you’re paying taxes on taxable accounts, make this the second fund you withdraw from.

Withdraw from tax-deferred retirement accounts like IRAs, 401(k)s or 403(b)s third. You’ll pay income tax on withdrawals, but do this before touching Roth accounts.

Lastly, withdraw from tax-exempt retirement accounts like Roth IRAs or 401(k)s. Saving these accounts for last makes sense, as you can take withdrawals without tax penalties. These accounts can also be used for estate planning.

These factors are complex, and you may want to consult a tax professional to help you apply these tips to your own financial situation. You can test different strategies and see which ones can help you minimize the taxes you’ll pay on your savings and benefits.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

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PHOTO: © TARRAGONA - DREAMSTIME.COM

BE COGNIZANT OF WHAT TAX BRACKET YOU FALL INTO. You may be in a lower tax bracket in retirement, so you’ll want to monitor your income levels (from Social Security, pensions, annuity payments) and any withdrawals to make sure you don’t take out so much you get bumped into a higher bracket.

spas

READY FOR THE RED CARPET Refresh and get glam at the newly redesigned The Peninsula Spa in Beverly Hills. BY KIMBERLY KROL

WARM RECEPTION: Spa front desk

PHOTO: © THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS

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FOR NINE YEARS NOW, Global Traveler has celebrated its annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards at the 5-star Peninsula Beverly Hills in Los Angeles, California. Each year when we descend upon the hotel for the event, it does feel a bit like returning home, or at least to what is akin to my home away from home in the City of Angels. My December 2019 visit proved no exception, although one of the property’s sanctuaries did look different. I wanted to check out this remodel of a familiar space and see the new facility. Luckily for me, that refreshed venue was the hotel’s equally stellar spa.

Last summer The Peninsula Beverly Hills completed a renovation of the 4,600-square-foot facility, located on the fifth floor near the rooftop pool, allowing for a day of pampering and relaxation.

Entering the spa feels glamourous, with lit flower décor adorning the walls and clean white and gray marble surrounding reception. Fresh, beautiful floral arrangements and an extra-large, deliciously scented candle beckon patrons deeper into the ultimate relaxation zone. As the friendly receptionist showed me around the refreshed facility, she told me plans to renovate the fitness center, located directly behind spa

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reception, would begin shortly.

After the tour I changed into the comfy, plush robe, slipped into the slides and eagerly awaited my therapist in the refreshed serenity lounge. Post-facial, I spent a few minutes back in this room enjoying the most delicious ginger tea. Spa-goers can also enjoy light nibbles like zucchini muffins and turmeric shots here, as well as magazines and adult coloring books. The pink color on one of the walls, which dances with a butterfly motif, and the pops of pink and orange in the pillows are both energizing and calming, beckoning you to take a moment but giving you the burst you need to take on the rest of the day.

Salt seems to be having its moment in the spa world; of my last three spa experiences, The Peninsula Beverly Hills included, all featured Himalayan salt in some way. At The Peninsula, it’s in the saunas. The pink Himalayan salt dry saunas, part of the renovation, are activated by heat and aid in digestion, memory and mood by helping to release serotonin in the body. Other elements of the redesign include textured wall coverings, new lighting and art, a new

hair and makeup studio — of extra importance in Los Angeles’ world of red carpets — and a spa cabana that takes express treatments, including reflexology and vitamin treatments, outdoors.

The spa menu also received a facelift to incorporate The Peninsula Hotels’ exclusive partnership with Australian brand Subtle Energies; this marks Subtle Energies’ first foray into the U.S. market. The Peninsula Chicago and The Peninsula New York also feature this venture. Treatments include Subtle Energies 24K Gold Age-Defying Facial and Subtle Energies Recovering Traveler. The Peninsula Beverly Hills also is now the only spa in Los Angeles offering two high-tech Medical Beauty Research facials, one costing approximately $1,600.

It was time for my own facial, the 60-minute BR Biologique Recherche Facial, described on the spa menu as an “intensive and sophisticated facial.” After an in-depth analysis of my skin by the therapist, who everyone I encountered told me was the best (I have to agree!), there followed a cleansing and exfoliation.

Afterward, the therapist used her hands to lift my skin and muscles; the technique, as she told me, is intended to tighten the skin and promote elasticity.

Careful to avoid excessive redness as it was my first time using some of the products, she was gentle yet effective. After the lifting she applied several anti-aging serums and a custom face mask formulated to match my skin type. My favorite part of the facial? The therapist used a jade roller over the cold face mask — it was so refreshing and energizing!

There’s a treatment to suit every need on The Peninsula Spa’s menu, with 12 different facials, Ayurveda aromatherapy, body treatments and eight massages. The treatments include techniques and practices from around the globe, like the Thai

REFRESHED:

Treatment room (above), and serenity room (left) PHOTOS: © THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS

Table Ceremony, and some are broken out on the spa menu by the type of products used, allowing spa-goers to easily find their favorites. Spa packages, hair and nail therapies and fitness classes round out the offerings.

With my visit on the cusp of awards season, my mind wandered, wondering which celebrities would soon visit the spa to get glam. With its new design, its luxurious treatments, its welcoming staff and its 5-star facility, I’d say The Peninsula Spa at The Peninsula Beverly Hills is already red-carpet ready.

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The Peninsula Spa The Peninsula Beverly Hills 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd.

Beverly Hills, CA 90212 tel 310 975 2854 peninsula.com

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golf

TROPICAL GEM Test your skills at Cap Cana’s oceanfront Punta Espada Golf Club.

SCENIC BEAUTY: Hole 1

PHOTO: © DONNELLE OXLEY

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IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC — actually, in all of the Caribbean — not many golf courses can challenge the legendary Teeth of the Dog course for “top dog” status. Most golfers agree only one comes close: Punta Espada. This oceanfront Nicklaus gem is located at Cap Cana, a 30,000-acre luxury resort/residential community about 10 minutes from Punta Cana International Airport.

Cap Cana proves a stunner from the moment you enter the gates.

Two decades ago, when I saw the plans, I thought it was an impossible dream, but the self-contained resort community evolved into a beautifully landscaped enclave with hotel choices ranging from family-oriented to adults-only. A variety of good restaurants scattered throughout the resort serve a feast of culinary creations. Diversions include riding and polo at the equestrian center and water sports at the full-service marina.

We stayed in Eden Roc, a collection of 34 free-standing suites and villas, each with its own pool. Eden Roc is the island’s only Relais & Châteaux hotel, and everything about our 1,000-square-foot villa was

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BY DALE LEATHERMAN

flawless, right down to the outdoor shower and small pool secreted in a private garden. Each accommodation includes a golf cart for exploring the resort.

This was our first visit to Cap Cana since the opening of the Punta Espada Golf Club in 2006, and we found it matured into a tropical gem, with flowering plants accenting broad stretches of white sand and emerald fairways and greens. Measuring 7,396 yards from the tips, Punta Espada (“Tip of the Sword”) features eight holes on the ocean and views of the sea from many vantage points. The coral cliffs, abundant foliage, water challenges and constant ocean breezes are a given, but the elevation changes come as a surprise for a seaside layout. Even if you’re using the Dorado (6,883 yards), Azul (6,314 yards) or Rojo (5,052 yards) tees, you must climb up to the back tees of the second hole. As you enjoy the view to the ocean and green 611 yards away, consider it fair warning: This course proves daunting from any tee. You can count on Nicklaus for lots of risk-reward, and this is the Bear at his best.

HOLE 1 | 416 yards, par 4

The opening hole, with its tee complex set atop a ridge, vividly sets the scene for the round. From the brilliant blue bowl of the sky, the Caribbean sun bounces off the white coral cliffs and waste bunker along the left, contrasting with the deep green of the fairway and the putting surface, tucked against another wall of bleached coral. At one time this area was under water and the coral teemed with sea life, as evidenced by the skeletons and shells we could see in the rock faces. Ranked ninth in difficulty, the par 4 makes a good warm-up hole.

HOLE 2 | 611 yards, par 5

After the first hole’s scenic welcome comes the course’s toughest test, a 611-yard bully teeing off from a rocky bluff — the course’s highest point. The dogleg right, liberally bunkered, includes sand wrapping around a lake in front of the green. Unless you’ve kept to the left side of the fairway, you’ll make your approach shot over sand and/ or water to a green backed by more sand in the form of a narrow beach.

BY THE SEA: Hole 11 (above), and Hole 17 (left) PHOTOS: © DONNELLE OXLEY

HOLE 10 | 432 yards, par 4

A large waste area runs along the entire right side of the hole, circles a lake and surrounds the tabletop green set off to the right. A deep bunker in the landing area discourages aiming right, the shortest route.

This sets up a second-shot quandary, especially for women who teed off from 283 yards and may choose to hold up rather than hit a longer iron to the small, forward-sloping target.

For good measure, Nicklaus placed a pot bunker in the front face of the green.

HOLE 13 | 250 yards, par 3

If the pounding waves on the left and in front of the tee boxes fail to intimidate, gusting winds can confound your club choice here. Even the 114-yard carry from the forward tees can turn into a wood shot in a head-on wind.

Being bold and reaching the green doesn’t get you home free because the putting surface rises to a spine, then runs off to the ocean or two grass bunkers in back.

HOLE 17 | 358 yards, par 4

The pressure rachets up near the finish, with the sea a threat all along the right side. On the penultimate hole, a wide bay lies between the tees and the fairway, and the green perches on a spit of land at the water’s edge. The farther down the fairway your drive over water lands, the better your approach angle will be. Beware the final trap: the deep bunker set into the left front of the small, elevated green.

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Punta Espada Golf Club Cap Cana Punta Cana 23000 Dominican Republic tel 809 469 7767 puntaespadagolf.com capcana.com

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chefs

IN HER ELEMENT Chef Kaya Peters keeps things fresh at OAK + CRU Social Kitchen & Wine Bar. BY KIMBERLY KROL WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN? Growing up, I would make pancakes every Sunday.

I was born in Germany, and we moved to Canada when I was 5, so I didn’t learn to make fluffy, Canadian-style pancakes until later. Sunday breakfast always consisted of the thinner, German-style pancakes similar to crêpes. With just three ingredients (milk, flour and eggs), they were one of the first things my mom taught me how to make. Together with all the fixings, like homemade fruit compote, breakfast on Sunday was everyone’s favorite meal of the week.

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WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND, ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? Guilty pleasure would be a nice piece of 70 percent — or darker — chocolate.

I’d like to say I would give up chocolate, but I’m not a quitter. I’m not fond of cumin. I got sick after eating a dish primarily spiced with cumin. I had a migraine and cold at the same time, and though that had nothing to do with the dish, I can’t smell or eat cumin now without associating it with a migraine.

WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? I grew up on a vegetable farm, so seasonal produce is important to me. I would most certainly serve in-season dishes. In fall you can’t go wrong with meat, cheese, crackers and an array of condiments. Charcuterie boards are one of my favorite plates to design.

I would pair the ingredients with a local wine. Next I would prepare squash soup; a favorite of mine uses coconut milk and curry spices. For the main dish: a roast, preferably braised until the meat melts in your mouth.

A hearty gravy made from the roasted vegetables and meat drippings would complement. To accompany the protein, butter carrots and mashed potatoes with brown butter and sesame seeds (Mom’s recipe, of course) and a seasonal coleslaw. For dessert, there’s nothing better than a warm Okanagan apple strudel with vanilla bean ice cream.

FEBRUARY 2020

WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? While I do appreciate the benefits of a good sous vide and what it brings to the culinary scene, I think the world is moving toward sustainable alternatives. I believe it is time to stop putting everything in plastic bags, for environmental reasons. There’s value in learning how to properly cook chicken, steak or vegetables that still maintain the flavor and juices. Trust the process.

OAK + CRU SOCIAL KITCHEN & WINE BAR Delta Hotels by Marriott Grand Okanagan 1310 Water St. Kelowna, BC V1Y 9P3 Canada tel 250 763 4500 marriott.com

PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL

KAYA PETERS FELL IN LOVE with cooking by watching and learning from her mother. However, she wasn’t certain it was the career path for her until after a six-month solo backpacking trip through New Zealand. After graduating top of her class with a Certificate of Culinary Arts in February 2016, she returned to work in Canada’s Okanagan region, where she grew up on an organic vegetable farm; she has been in her current role as chef de partie at OAK + CRU Social Kitchen & Wine Bar at Delta Grand Okanagan since 2018.

OAK + CRU draws its inspiration from the fresh ingredients of the area, which includes more than 200 wineries and many local purveyors and artisans. This complements Peters well, as she cites the abundance of fresh local fruits and vegetables as one of the reasons she loves working in the Okanagan.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? I still have so much travel and learning to do, but I really enjoy tasting and cooking different styles of cuisines. More specifically, I would say a composed appetizer plate of seared scallops, a purée of creamy carrot, an herb vinaigrette, sautéed baby vegetables and pickled shaved vegetables. I love the way a quick pickle on a shaved vegetable adds brightness to a plate. One of the most important aspects of a good flavor profile — and something I always focus on — is balancing acidity and salt. With that plate, the buttery and salty seared scallops and smooth, decadent purée balance nicely with the acidity of the pickled vegetables and herb vinaigrette.

cruising

A STATEROOM OF ONE’S OWN Unwind and recharge on a girlfriends’ getaway cruise. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

A YEAR AGO, OPRAH WINFREY took the helm, along with “chief officer” Gayle King and mates from O, The Oprah Magazine, to launch the ultimate girls’ getaway cruise. The event sold out in less than 24 hours, and the ensuing spectacle, aboard Holland America Line’s Nieuw Statendam, consisted of a three-day cruise to the Bahamas out of Fort Lauderdale. Nearly 2,400 women (and 59 men) helped Oprah celebrate her 65th birthday with a non-stop party at sea that included Oprah talks, meditation and fitness classes, book club readings, health and beauty sessions, fashion shows and shopping marathons — in short, all the workshops and workouts women dreamed of finding time for in their busy lives on land.

While Holland America is noncommittal about an Oprah repeat, women seeking a revitalizing escape from the pressures and restrictions of home and workplace have plenty of cruise options. A girlfriends’ getaway cruise, whether organized by an agency or the participants themselves, gives women travelers a chance to experience the good life in the exclusive company of girlfriends or female family members, with no men or kids in tow.

While full-bore girlfriends’ getaway cruises on the scale of the Oprah special are rare, there are operators who plan small-group experiences focused on women that are conducted on regularly scheduled cruises.

Stitchin’ Heaven, for example, offers a dozen 4- to 11-night getaways for quilters and stitchers in 2020 aboard Royal Caribbean’s big ships out of several U.S. ports, including Miami; Galveston; Seattle; and Cape Liberty,

CREATIVE GETAWAY:

Stitchin’ Heaven cruise PHOTOS: © STITCHIN’ HEAVEN

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New Jersey. These cruises enable women to visit the Caribbean, Central America, Canada or Alaska as regular passengers while participating in stitching seminars conducted by several experts.

Quilters have exclusive 24/7 access to work spaces and Bernina sewing machines, and they can bring their own precut fabric and patterns or purchase a prepaid, precut quilt package.

Cruise & Crop offers quite similar small-group, 3- to 10-day cruises for those interested in a wider range of crafting, from scrapbooking to beading. Most of the nearly 30 cruises listed for 2020 sail out of Florida to the Caribbean, but there are also crafting cruises to Alaska, Hawai’i, New England, Canada, Northern Europe and the Mediterranean. U.S. departure points are Tampa, Port Canaveral, Miami, Galveston, Honolulu, Seattle, Baltimore, Boston and Cape Liberty.

Most girlfriends’ getaways at sea are not organized around a shared hobby or special interest, of course. A regular booking with other women is all that’s needed, although the assistance of a travel agent specializing in cruises can simplify planning, especially in matters of stateroom selection, destination, pricing and choice of a cruise line that lives up to one’s dreams. Mega-ships offer the most options for onboard activities, from spas, shops and swimming pools to shows and special dining spots. Women are free to spend time together or pursue personal interests as they wish, to get personal or indulgent or even a bit rowdy. When fitness or exploration are strongly shared interests, however, small ships may be the best choice for a getaway. Wilderness Women Expeditions, for example, conducts sailings to such exotic locations as Egypt, the Greek Isles, Desolation Sound (British Columbia) and the Exuma Islands (the Bahamas) for small all-women groups (just six to eight participants) with female skippers at the helm.

Whether lasting a weekend or a week, a girlfriends’ getaway combines freedom and exhilaration in a way no other experience can, and ocean and river cruises have long served as the perfect setting for such a venture, with a treasure chest of resort luxuries, special activities and exotic sights, along with leagues of unfettered time to explore what women share together.

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GALS ON CANALS Barge Lady Cruises conducts tours on 50 vessels along 30 European waterways, but for a girlfriends’ getaway, the specially designated choices are the six-night itineraries that tie up near medieval villages, châteaus and vineyards along the canals of the French countryside.

The 12-guest Luciole traverses the Canal du Nivernais in Northern Burgundy. It takes in the church of Auxerre with its fabulous stainedglass windows. The six-guest Magnolia sails on the Canal de Bourgogne in Southern Burgundy and features truffle hunting and dinner at a French home.

The luxurious eight-guest C’est la Vie runs along the Canal de Bourgogne in Northern Burgundy, highlighting the vineyards of Chablis. It also sails along the Canal de Briare in the Upper Loire region, visiting the Gien tableware factory and the Château de la Bussière, famous for its angling-themed art collection.

BARGE LADY CRUISES bargeladycruises.com

CRUISING AND CRAFTING: Guests enjoy scrapbooking on a Cruise & Crop cruise PHOTO: © CRUISE & CROP

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feature

Going It Alone An upswing in solo female travelers changes the landscape of the industry. BY BECCA HENSLEY IT SEEMED A FAIRY TALE GONE WRONG. I’d schlepped my bags for more than 30 hours of flights and layovers across the globe, only to arrive at the Maldives at midnight. “How can this possibly be worth it?”

I mumbled, as I stumbled onto a boat, the only passenger. I’d come to mend a broken heart in Eat Pray Love mode. But in the darkness I doubted myself. If this was paradise, it was too dark to see. The stars glittered in the night sky, a briny scent filled the air, and the water made whispering sounds as we lurched into the purple infinity of night.

NEW DAY:

Walking on a pier in the Maldives PHOTO: © SVEN HANSCHE - DREAMSTIME.COM

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DO YOUR OWN THING:

Chicks Ice Clinic (top), and horseback riding at The Home Ranch (bottom) PHOTOS: © CHRIS NOBLE, © THE HOME RANCH

It was that gentle murmur that finally brought tears to my eyes. The loneliness seemed unbearable. Why had I come solo to one of the most romantic places on Earth?

Things got a bit worse in the morning, when I boarded a yacht-like, floating hotel with just 10 suites. It takes intrepid guests out for three to seven days at sea on scheduled jaunts between two Four Seasons properties, each located at diverse points amid the Maldives’ vast, 1,800-island archipelago.

As the vessel meanders through the Indian Ocean, it stops at the captain’s whim so guests can picnic on uninhabited islands, snorkel with a pod of dolphins or just watch a sunset take over a sky as enlivened as an artist’s canvas. Sounds perfect, right? But when I boarded the boat and met the other guests, my resolve faltered. I wouldn’t be alone — it was worse: I’d be sailing for three days with four honeymoon couples. It didn’t seem the most prudent place for a person trying to recover from a breakup. The challenge was real. As we left the shore to sail toward the horizon, my fellow guests stood at the bow, their bodies entwined, rapt looks on their faces, Champagne flutes aloft. Alone, in the most beautiful place on the planet, I started to sob.

What happened next surprised me. The trip turned out to be healing and blissful. I mark it as one of the best weeks of my life. Without a traveling companion, I bonded with the crew — not to mention some of the honeymooners. Even though I didn’t want to be a charity case, I became the person everybody wanted to make sure had a good time. Without the distractions of a vacation buddy, I focused on myself, doing exactly what I wanted to do — no compromising. I let myself take “safe” risks — like night snorkeling with the marine biologist — that instilled a sense of courage. Perhaps best of all, I spent quality alone time with myself. From the deck of the Explorer, the sea vistas took on a curative quality. I felt a kind of spiritual detox take place. Pain and anguish dissipated; joy took hold. A powerful inner spirit reignited. As I returned home, I marveled at the results.

I stood up straighter; was less teary-eyed; and felt confident, capable and recharged. Vacationing alone was like a gym for the soul.

Travel outfitters, hoteliers and travel agents the world over note an upswing in solo female travel.

“Women are traveling more. And they’re doing it alone — on their terms. In many ways, this movement is changing the landscape of travel,” said Michaela Murray, head of marketing, Hacker Paradise, whose company organizes global remote FEBRUARY 2020

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‘In response to solo female travelers telling hoteliers they did not like answering the door for room service, innovative Obie Hospitality (with hotels in Boise and Eugene) instituted butler’s pantries in all rooms. This external compartment allows guests to enjoy room service without opening the door.’

— CEO BRIAN OBIE

LOCAL IMMERSION: Access Culinary Trips, Peru PHOTO: © ACCESS CULINARY TRIPS

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work trips for location-independent professionals, complete with built-in crews. “We’re seeing an uptick in the amount of female-focused travel solutions out there, from female-only accommodations to the rise of female travel forums online,” she said. Indeed, research shows that besides work travel, women journey to check off a bucket-list destination, learn a new skill, celebrate a notable date or seek some kind of transformation or renewal. Making it easier, scores of hotels, destinations and travel companies offer female-only experiences, trips and retreats. Since females now helm many aspects of the travel industry as well, from fly fishing companies to yoga studios and including cooking schools, hotels and spas, there’s a fluid natural support system in a multitude of global locations.

This provides more opportunities than ever before for women travelers to step outside their comfort zone in accessible, encouraging environments.

Leading global guiding company Trafalgar recently conducted a survey targeting women travelers. The research concluded that after a solo trip, women felt “on top of the world,” empowered and motivated to take on the challenges of their real lives. “Women feel they can accomplish anything after an epic trip,” said Melissa DaSilva, Trafalgar’s president. She further reveals that, according to the survey, a majority of women believe travel makes them stronger (73 percent), more independent (73 percent) and more inspired (69 percent). Of those canvassed, 86 percent were not afraid to explore, despite what might be happening in the world around them. “Adventure travel attracts most of our solo female globetrotters,” said DaSilva. “It outweighs luxury by 20 percent.” From Trafalgar’s itineraries, DaSilva suggests intrepid women sign up for the Trailblazer, an eight-day trip which explores the Grand Canyon and Lake Powell.

Ready to go? Here are a few more to consider: Colorado, known for its active denizens and stellar terrain, has long been a resource for women in search of transformation and adventure through travel. In fact, Chicks Climbing and Skiing has had a stake in female travel for two decades. Its programs, located in Colorado and Wyoming and led by women for women, include instruction in edgier pursuits, from ice climbing to avalanche rescue training. In Boulder, “no dudes, no attitude” serves as the motto for Sacred Rides, owned by a female former pro mountain and cyclocross racer. Its bespoke overnight trips and gamechanging Ladies Day Out rides ensure adrenaline rushes.

For trekkers, Aspen Alpine Guides takes women hikers to the heights on backcountry peak climbs with its Leave the Boys Behind program. On a more Zen note, The Home Ranch, an

affiliate of Relais & Châteaux, offers a Yoga & Horses retreat several times a year for women interested in improving their equestrian skills via a mind/body connection with their equine mounts.

In more far-flung parts of the world, follow the example set

by Judi Wineland and her daughters, Erica and Nicole, who operate AdventureWomen, a nearly four-decade-young travel company for female sightseers. Its off-the-beaten-path options redefine girls’ getaways with itineraries to less-trammeled spots such as Oman, Antarctica and India.

For gastronomes, Access Culinary Trips introduces its first women-only tours to Morocco, Peru and Tuscany in 2020. Planned to immerse culinary fans safely and intimately

into communities, the jaunts ethically seek to empower local women in each country as well. Besides taking guests to iconic sights, the tours show firsthand the perspective of being female in these countries as well as exploring culture through cuisine.

In Tuscany travelers cook with a female chef in her home in Cortona, and in Morocco they’ll visit a women’s Argan cooperative.

Out Adventures, with its high-end, small-group tours, long catered to gay men. But in 2020 it launches its new lesbian tour offerings, starting with a trip to Peru and a small luxury cruise to Croatia. Journeys encompass a lesbian host, female tour guide, visits to lesbian-owned businesses, and activities that support women-owned businesses.

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SOLO JOURNEY: Out Adventures PHOTO: © IRIS SERBANESCO

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Women at the Helm Women rise to leadership roles in the hospitality industry. BY KRISTY ALPERT oo MeT n # the en i n of , Wom ed r o B t nt Uni eme mov itality build p o Hos ives t ng amo str y t i y. n t mu ali com hospit ent n in an urg e m n wo zing on i ogni evoluti ry, c e R st for indu ers need the st p fo nd u o r g pa the rshi the e d lea pions cham vance d a ple le itab all peo y u q e t of pitalit men . os he h dustry in t in

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PRIOR TO WORLD WAR I, it was virtually unheard of to have a woman working in the hospitality industry. Women occasionally worked alongside their husbands to operate B&Bs, and the rare pensione was female-run; but as the men went off to war, the need for extra help in hotels gave rise to women entering the industry.

“Historically, women employees in hospitality were mostly in entry-level positions such as room attendants, servers and assistants,” says Vanja Bogicevic, clinical assistant professor, Jonathan M. Tisch Center of Hospitality at the NYU School of Professional Studies. “Only in the ’80s did women enter the hospitality leadership positions in larger numbers, and this progress has continued exponentially, though there is still much place for improvement.”

According to the Castell Project’s annual benchmark report, “Women in Hospitality Industry Leadership 2019,” women today comprise 11 percent of leadership roles such as directors, senior management, executives or partners, and more are being promoted to president roles or becoming owners. The numbers will continue to grow, as women now make up the majority of many of the world’s top hospitality schools’ student populations.

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RISING TO THE CHALLENGE: Angama Mara guest area (top), and owner and CEO Nicky Fitzgerald (above) PHOTOS: © ANGAMA MARA

Ultimately, a woman-led hotel is just that: a hotel. Although women have been grossly underrepresented in the hospitality field for many decades, the women now rising to the top of the industry do so alongside their male peers by offering an unparalleled level of customer service and a truly unique approach to customer satisfaction. From a five-diamond resort with a family-friendly focus outside of Pittsburgh to a mother and daughter-run safari lodge in Kenya, here are some of the world’s greatest hotels … which happen to be run by women.

NAMED AFTER THE SWAHILI WORD for “suspended in midair,” Angama Mara perches high above the Maasai Mara game reserve in Kenya on the site where numerous scenes from the movie Out of Africa were filmed. When the resort opened in 2015, it redefined the standards of luxury and experiential travel among Kenya’s safari lodges. This expansive property features 30 luxury tented suites, each looked after by owner Nicky Fitzgerald, who runs the property alongside her daughter, Kate. Fitzgerald has been in the hotel industry for more than 38 years, operating more than 60 luxury lodges across Africa and India. “This long journey was undertaken with Steve, my husband, very much at my side; and when he passed away two years ago, I took over the running of the company and am now, in my autumn years,” CEO Fitzgerald explains. “Our lodge is in the heart of Kenya’s Maasailand. The Maasai are a male-dominated society, and as a woman from South Africa, I respect that and daily seek solutions how to overcome this. I am up to the challenge!”

WHEN LIZ LAMBERT RETURNED to her native Texas in 1994 to work in the Attorney General’s office in Austin, the thought of owning a hotel was just a fantasy.

After a chance meeting with a local hotel owner, Lambert found herself the owner of the run-down motor court hotel on South Congress Avenue. She set to work raising funds to renovate the property, and in 2000 the Hotel San José opened and transformed its neighborhood with its upscale makeover and bohemian vibes. Lambert’s success with her first hotel renovation led her to launch Bunkhouse Group, a hospitality company founded on the pillars of design, music and community-driven experiences. Her portfolio of hotels now includes El Cosmico, the Austin Motel, Hotel Saint Cecilia, Hotel Havana, Hotel San Cristóbal Baja, The Phoenix Hotel and Hotel Magdalena, along with a series of popular Austin coffee shops called Jo’s Coffee.

IT WAS NO COINCIDENCE that 1994 was the year Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II visited the San Ignacio Resort Hotel in Belize and also the year the hotel transitioned its ownership to four sisters. Mariam Bedran Roberson and her three

sisters (Terry Bedran Carter, Nazle Bedran Kuylen and Paulita Bedran Figueroa) only realized later in life their father had been grooming them to take over the family’s property. They learned every aspect of running the business before assuming leadership in 1994, when they began the work of moving their development plan toward a higher-end market. The family culture of the hotel remains, but the property is now the only luxury resort hotel within walking distance of the town of San Ignacio. Along with updating rooms and meeting spaces, the sisters started the Green Iguana Project, to help protect the threatened species, and opened the Running W Restaurant featuring locally farmed meat.

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SISTERHOOD: San Ignacio Resort Hotel (top) and owners, left to right, Terry Bedran Carter, Paulita Bedran Figueroa, Nazle Bedran Kuylen and Mariam Bedran Roberson PHOTOS: © SAN IGNACIO RESORT HOTEL

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RECENTLY AWARDED THE Outstanding ASEAN Women Entrepreneurs Award for 2019, Tirawan Pangsrivongse Taechaubol’s success has only increased each year after rising to the role of group project development manager of Cape & Kantary Hotels.

Along with involvement in countless other properties, this philanthropic businesswoman is the force behind Thailand’s Cape Kudu Hotel in Koh Yao Noi and Cape Fahn Hotel on the private island of Koh Fahn, Koh Samui, both members of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Tirawan’s exquisite style graces each of the 55 luxury suites at the boho-chic Cape Kudu Hotel as well as the 22 independent luxury villas that comprise Cape Fahn Hotel. “I feel very fortunate to have been born in Thailand, which is one of the least sexist countries in the world,” Tirawan says. “That means that I have had the opportunity to exercise what I might call ‘the woman’s touch’ without any fear of criticism or censure from colleagues or the public.”

JOSEPH A. HARDY III originally set out to purchase a small parcel of fishing land for his daughter, Maggie, an avid fisherwoman, when he attended a land auction in 1987. Instead, he came home with 550 acres of land that would soon become the Nemacolin Woodlands Resort in Farmington, Pennsylvania. The resort grew to epic proportions under Hardy’s leadership, but it wasn’t until his daughter, Maggie Hardy Knox, took over as president and owner in 2002 that the property truly began to shine. Under her leadership, Nemacolin expanded to 2,000 acres, including an acclaimed spa and a holistic wellness center, a PGA Tour-quality golf course, a private airfield, a wildlife academy, an Olympic-caliber gym and five distinct lodging options, including the famous Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired Falling Rock luxury boutique hotel.

LIFELONG PASSION: Ashford Castle (top), and Beatrice Tollman, president and founder, The Red Carnation Hotel Collection PHOTOS: © ASHFORD CASTLE

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BEATRICE TOLLMAN WAS TRAINING to be a nursery school teacher when she met and fell in love with her husband, Stanley Tollman, a second-generation hotelier. “We leased our first hotel, The Nugget Hotel in Johannesburg, using our wedding present money to furnish the property,” she explains. “I managed the kitchen, teaching myself how to cook through reading, trialing and tasting, while Stanley looked after the front of house.” The couple’s passion for excellence in both food and service set their property apart, and soon the Tollmans had a portfolio of 20 hotels under their brand, The Red Carnation Hotel Collection. Aside from running the company, Mrs. Tollman continues to hand-select the finest antiques, artworks and furnishings for each property, including the luxurious Ashford Castle in Ireland.

“Thankfully, I do think that the industry has come on enormously in terms of opportunities for women since my first days in hospitality,” Mrs. Tollman says. “When I started out running the kitchen in our first hotel in Johannesburg, we would have to pretend that the chef had gone home whenever a diner wished to pass on their compliments in person, as it was so unusual for an establishment to have a woman in the kitchen.

Thankfully, women are now thriving as chefs and in the myriad other roles throughout the hospitality sector.”

PHOTOS: © DRAGONIMAGES - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEKSANDR STEPANOV - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SLAWEK KOZAKIEWICZ - DREAMSTIME.COM, © JULIA161 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © VLADGALENKO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © LIAMWH7 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LUIZBAGA2 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ACHIM BAQUÉ - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ZHIYULI - DREAMSTIME.COM

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Enhance well-being this New Year at Heart of the Earth Spa, located at Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, Hoi An.

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WhereverFamily’s 2020 Travel Auction Supports The KAI Foundation FXExpress Publications, Inc., regularly hosts online travel auctions to benefit worthy causes. Thanks to your generous participation in past auctions, we’ve raised more than $1 million in charitable donations. In 2020, WhereverFamily will host an online auction to benefit the KAI Foundation, as they aim to provide facilities and support to aid the less fortunate in building successful lives for themselves and promising futures for their children. Join us by bidding often on some fantastic items, including round-trip airfare and Briggs & Riley luggage.

Visit whereverfamily.com throughout the month of March to start bidding.

Read more online for instructions and check back regularly as new items will be added.

The Claire Kartagener Maternity Ward Mugarameno, Chiawa, Zambia

Following a family trip to Zambia during which the Kartageners visited Mugarameno, a small village approximately 45 minutes by boat from Lower Zambezi National Park, it was determined the village would be the site of the KAI Foundation’s first project. The clinic in Mugarameno serves about 20,000 people living in the vicinity and the facilities left much to be desired. The one-room clinic had no running water and limited electricity. The KAI Foundation built the Claire Kartagener Maternity Ward, opened in 2016, for the community. Today, additional housing facilities for staff and volunteers are being built, and KAI Foundation looks to its next project, helping an underfunded school in Asia.

THE KAI FOUNDATION IS A 501(C)(3) NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION.

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destination one | DUBLIN

On Tap

Dublin pours on the charm to attract innovators and entrepreneurs.

BY SUSAN B. BARNES

WITH ITS ENVIABLE LOCATION at the head of Dublin Bay on the Irish Sea, framed by the Wicklow Mountains beyond and the River Liffey running through it, there’s little wonder Dublin draws so many visitors. In fact, more than 6.3 million people visited in 2018. For a city with a population of 1.3 million and a country of just more than 4.9 million, that’s quite a number of people to welcome to the Emerald Isle.

Doing business in Dublin is not new. In the 1950s Ireland made a concerted effort to pursue “industriali-

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sation by invitation” by creating a welcoming business environment. A likely result, Dublin hosts some of the most influential global multinational corporations in industries such as technology, finance and pharma and biotech, with companies including Google, Microsoft, Johnson & Johnson, Pfizer, JP Morgan and Deloitte establishing headquarters here. According to IDA Ireland, the country’s inward investment promotion agency, one-third of all multinational corporations in the country have operated in Ireland for more than 20 years, which speaks volumes about its appeal.

According to Andrew Vogelaar, head of the growth markets division, IDA Ireland, 1,300 overseas companies work within Ireland, and about half are based in Dublin. He added two-thirds of Ireland’s exports — €140 billion in goods and €160 billion in services annually — are driven by multinational corporations.

“We’re a small, open economy that’s very much export-driven,” said Vogelaar.

ALONG THE RIVERSIDE: A view across the River Liffey in Dublin PHOTO: © IAN WHITWORTH - DREAMSTIME.COM

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens must have a passport valid for at least the duration of their stay, but it is recommended it be valid for six months after arrival date. A visa is not required for stays of up to 90 days.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

English and Irish (Gaeilge)

PAST & PRESENT: Famine memorial statues on the Custom House Quay in the Docklands opposite Dublin’s Central Business District PHOTO: © NICOLA PULHAM - DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING CARTON HOUSE About 20 minutes outside of the city center, the historic mansion built in 1739 sits on 1,100 acres of private parkland estate and features two golf courses, a spa, professional training pitches and more.

Carton Demesne, Maynooth, Co. Kildare $$$$ THE CLARENCE HOTEL The city’s original rock ’n roll boutique hotel features just 50 rooms in a location perfect for business and pleasure … just as you might expect from the hotel’s owners, U2.

6-8 Wellington Quay, Temple Bar $$$$

What’s more, Ireland makes it easy to do business on the island. The World Bank’s “Doing Business 2020” report ranks Ireland in the top 25 in regards to ease of doing business, and Dublin ranked second in Overall: European Cities of the Future in the fDi Magazine rankings for 2018–2019. Regarding its economy, the IMD World Competitiveness Center ranks Ireland as the second-most competitive economy in the European Union and the seventhmost competitive in the world.

Concerning the homegrown talent in Ireland, IDA Ireland reports the country is implementing a comprehensive, forward-looking National Skills Strategy & Action Plan for Education, aiming to make Irish education and training the best in Europe by 2026. The Emerald Isle enjoys a head start in that regard: It boasts one of the most educated workforces in the world, with 56.3 percent of 30- to 34-year-olds in Ireland having a third-level qualification, compared to an EU average of 40.7 percent. According to a recent study by the European Commission, the Irish are “the most highly employable graduates in the world.”

That’s not to say Ireland’s workforce is all local, however. According to the Dublin City Council, “Ireland is consistently ranked among the top coun-

tries in the world for labour productivity, availability of skilled labour, availability of financial skills and flexibility of its people, according to figures from the World Bank.” Because of this, “Highly skilled workers are attracted to Dublin for its many career opportunities, but especially for the great lifestyle that this compact, friendly city offers.”

“What you’re seeing now is it’s a much more open, multicultural society in the demographics of Dublin, all the different cultures that you have here,” said Vogelaar. “Facebook quite recently hired their 100th different nationality into the Irish operation.”

Looking ahead, Ireland is investing in its future.

Through the National Development Plan, implemented in 2018 and running through 2027, the country is investing €116 billion in public infrastructure and capital works, with a focus of 10 strategic priorities including “enterprise, skills and innovation capacity, housing and sustainable urban development, the national road network, environmentally sustainable public transport and climate action.” Additionally, at the end of the first quarter of 2019, more than 5 million square feet of office space was under construction in Dublin, of which nearly 3.8 million square feet lies in the city center.

Doing business in Dublin is smart, too, in that

THE SHELBOURNE, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION The 5-star luxury hotel, a favorite of discerning guests from around the world, has been the center of Dublin’s social and cultural life for nearly 200 years.

27 St. Stephen’s Green $$$

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT Phone code: Country code: 353 City code: 1 Currency: Euro Key industries: The five key industries expected to have the most significant growth in Dublin over the next decade are technology, health and social care, professional services, arts and recreation, and logistics and storage.

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INNOVATION:

Google office building (top), and downtown Dublin (bottom) PHOTOS: © CLEMENT MANTION PIERRE OLIVIER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ARTUR BOGACKI - DREAMSTIME.COM

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two projects will transform it into a smart city. Four Dublin County authorities have partnered with technology providers, researchers and residents to solve challenges and improve city life. Additionally, Dublin City Council and Trinity College Dublin’s CONNECT research center launched Smart Docklands in 2018 to encourage professionals to connect with the startup community and university students.

So what about Brexit? IDA Ireland notes there is strong public support for Ireland’s European Union membership, and 88 percent of the public “believe that Ireland has benefited from EU membership,” and 83 percent “are positive about EU membership.”

“There is some uncertainty out there due to Brexit potentially impacting business and consumer confidence and potential disruption to global supply chains as well,” explained Vogelaar. “Ireland is fully committed to the EU and will stay with the EU.” The future is bright in Dublin and all of Ireland, and businesses from around the world are more than welcome to be a part of it. As the Irish say, céad mile fáilte — a hundred thousand welcomes.

CHECKING IN WITH DR. ROISIN LYONS AND FURKAN KARAYAL

Dr. Roisin Lyons, assistant professor of entrepreneurship and innovation, Dublin City University Business School, and Furkan Karayal, founder and CEO, Diverse In, both served to organize StartupWeek Dublin to build momentum around the community’s unique entrepreneurial and innovative identity.

What makes Dublin conducive to startups and attractive to entrepreneurs?

Roisin Lyons: Dublin has many attributes that attract startups and corporates alike. Firstly, it is a hub of highly trained and highly skilled individuals, supported by five nearby universities and multiple third-level institutes and training facilities. This proximity to graduates and expertise allows for numerous collaborations and community-building initiatives. Secondly, the community itself is welcoming, supportive and engaged, with mentorship and information sessions to suit all needs. This energy and goodwill, of course, is showcased during StartupWeek but all year-round is felt, too. In addition, there is a supportive corporate infrastructure for entrepreneurship, multiple co-working spaces and related community leaders who strive to support this wave of innovation through the city.

Lastly, with citywide services such as Dublin City Council also helping to attract startups, the concerted effort feels like a strong web, an ecosystem for startups of all kinds.

Which industries are attracted to doing business in Dublin? What is on the horizon as far as new industries coming onto the scene?

Furkan Karayal: There is no doubt the technology industry will lead the future of the Dublin economy due to its current talent pool with tech startups and being the home to the European headquarters of most of the big American tech companies. Similarly, tech-related industries have higher potentials, too. Research shows medical technology is one of the fastestgrowing industries in Ireland. From another side, the impact of Brexit uncertainty plays a big role to make Dublin the best option for multinational companies in financial services or other areas to maintain their bridges with the European Union.

Describe the women entrepreneur scene in Dublin. What types of companies are they starting, and what type of support do they have?

Furkan Karayal: The majority of female entrepreneurs in Dublin are in social enterprises, professional services, communication and creative fields. Female entrepreneurs find support through state grants or accelerator programs and mentorship opportunities through social initiatives. Even though there is still more room to improve, Irish society is ready to embrace more female entrepreneurs, as we see new role models every day in the media.

TAKING THE INITIATIVE:

Dr. Roisin Lyons (left), and Furkan Karayal (right) PHOTOS: © DR. ROISIN LYONS, © FURKAN KARAYAL

DINING FIRE RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE If a restaurant is going to host the World Steak Challenge, its own steaks should be stellar. Fire delivers with a menu featuring modern Irish fare created from award-winning meats and fresh seasonal produce.

The Mansion House, Dawson Street $$$$ THE GREENHOUSE Michelin 2-starred chef Mickael Viljanen leads the kitchen team in creating inspired meals using the finest ingredients for a memorable dining experience at this Michelin 2-starred restaurant.

Joshua House, 21 Dawson St. $$$$$ SOLE SEAFOOD & GRILL SOLE serves the freshest of Ireland’s seafood in a chic setting where service is paramount.

Sure to impress at lunch or dinner: the decadent seafood tower.

18-19 S. William St. $$$$

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DIVERSIONS

When it comes to taking some time to enjoy the city, you will find plenty of ways to keep yourself entertained in Dublin.

Get a feel for the city on a walking tour, with plenty from which to choose. Dublin Free Walking Tours traverse the north and south sides of the city, hitting the highlights along the way. Or opt for a themed tour, from history to literary to Ulysses; tasting and Irish music pub crawls are on tap, too.

Once you get your bearings, make your way back to the campus of Trinity College to see one of the world’s most famous books, exquisitely preserved: The Book of Kells, dating back to the ninth century. Afterward, continue upstairs to be awed by the Trinity College Library’s Long Room, filled with 200,000 of the library’s oldest books and considered one of the most impressive libraries in the world. Speaking of libraries, Marsh’s Library, next to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, was Ireland’s first public library when it opened its doors in 1707.

Today it houses more than 25,000 books from the 16th to 18th centuries.

The architecture of St. Patrick’s and Christ Church cathedrals is something to behold, both structures remarkably withstanding the test of time: St. Patrick’s Cathedral has stood for 800 years, while Christ Church Cathedral is nearly 1,000 years old. However, you’ll find the oldest church in Dublin, St. Michan’s Church, on the north side, founded in 1095. Bram Stoker, who penned Dracula, worshiped here.

Head to The Guinness Storehouse for a beer. The experience takes enthusiasts through the history of the famous beverage at St. James’ Gate, where it has been brewed since 1759. At the end, sip a frosty pint at the Gravity Bar, boasting 360-degree views across Dublin and the surrounding landscape. Of course, the city’s pubs pour terrific pints, too.

This represents but a small sampling of all Dublin and its surrounding communities offer. Take some time to enjoy the city’s history, perhaps take a daytrip, and start planning your inevitable return.

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HISTORIC FARE: Guinness Storehouse (above), and The Book of Kells (left) PHOTOS: © STEVEN CUKROV - DREAMSTIME.COM, © CHON KIT LEONG - DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

Direct flights from the United States to Dublin are available on Aer Lingus, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Norwegian and United Airlines. Upon arrival at Dublin Airport, about six miles from the city center, easily travel into Dublin via metered taxis and personal cars as well as by bus. Once in the city limits, get around via taxi or DART, Dublin’s electric train system, or simply walk. Returning from Dublin is made easier with a U.S. Preclearance facility where passengers go through U.S. immigration, customs and agriculture inspections prior to departure.

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stateside | NASHVILLE

Pivotal Roles Nashville sings the praises of groundbreaking women, past and present. BY HOLLY RIDDLE CLAIM TO FAME:

Women’s suffrage movement photo on display this year at The Hermitage Hotel (left), and the hotel lobby (top right) and exterior (bottom right) PHOTO:S © HERMITAGE HOTEL

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NASHVILLE: IT’S A TRAVEL DESTINATION known widely for its country music scene (it is Music City, after all) and, at least over the last decade, as a bachelorette party destination. However, step away from the bright lights and twangy tunes of Broadway, aka Honky Tonk Row, and you’ll find there’s much more to the Athens of the South than immediately meets the eye.

The offerings for female travelers are particularly impressive, and 2020 is an especially fitting time for women to make their way to Nashville. This year the city celebrates the 100th anniversary of the national ratification of the 19th Amendment, which granted women the right to vote in 1920. While this monumental scene on the tapestry of American history is worth celebrating all over the country, Nashville FEBRUARY 2020

and Tennessee as a whole boast a special connection to the event. Tennessee was the final state to ratify the amendment, and the deciding vote was cast in Nashville. As such, many Nashville organizations and businesses will present events, exhibits and activities throughout 2020 in honor of the female right to vote.

Beyond simply exploring some of the city’s honorary offerings, from free and self-guided suffrage walking tours to the year-long suffrage centennial exhibit at the Tennessee State Museum, visiting women can enjoy a more comprehensive experience with a stay at the luxurious Hermitage Hotel during 2020. The hotel notably served as a central meeting spot for pro- and anti-suffrage campaigners, and this year guests can explore the hotel’s collection of artifacts from the summer of 1920 in the lobby. They can also enjoy suffrage-themed craft cocktails at Oak Bar and a suffrage tea series through the summer, among other experiences.

The state and city’s support of strong-willed and groundbreaking females on that fateful day in 1920 wasn’t an isolated incident, though. Nashville has proven to harbor fertile soil for female entrepreneurs.

“We’ve had a [surge] of restaurants owned by women here in Nashville over the past 10 years, and it’s been very exciting to see,” says Marie Echols, general manager, Hotel Preston in Nashville.

Deana Ivey, chief marketing officer, Nashville Convention and Visitors Corp., notes the shopping scene in Nashville has really benefited from the addition of unique, independent boutiques, most of which, if not all, are female-owned. Ivey credits Nashville’s overall creative culture as an impetus for the growth in female business culture over the last several years. “Nashville

CREATIVE SPIRIT:

L.A. Jackson rooftop bar at the Thompson Nashville (top), and lobby of Hotel Preston (bottom) PHOTOS: © THOMPSON JACKSON, © HOTEL PRESTON

is really known for being supportive of creatives and working [with them] and building them up. Whether someone is in music or a chef or a maker, it’s a really tight-knit community. [The community aspect] makes a big difference.”

Many of these business owners and entrepreneurs find homes in up-and-coming neighborhoods and areas where construction rapidly provides new storefronts. Lisa Bush, director of sales and marketing at the 3-year-old Thompson Nashville, points to the Gulch neighborhood, the luxury boutique hotel’s location, as evidence of this. “The Gulch has unique, mom-and-pop shops that are very different [from what you’ll see downtown]. The Gulch area has more shopping and restaurants, and it’s a little bit more upscale.”

The Thompson Nashville frequently hosts solo female business travelers, and many, if not in the area long, remain in the Gulch neighborhood and explore its plentiful female-owned shops and restaurants.

These include e.Allen, a designer boutique, and Bar Otaku, a casual Japanese pub. If they do have some additional time, they might branch out to the 12South neighborhood, a destination known for its walkability and highlighted by local designers and makers. Soon these travelers will have an additional area to explore with the development of Nashville Yards, a project called a new “gateway to downtown” that includes retail, green space, a concert venue and a Grand Hyatt property.

Wherever female travelers explore all Nashville has to offer, though, the general consensus among businesswomen who live and work in Nashville seems to be that female travelers can feel safe exploring on their own in just about any part of town.

“Nashville is a very safe city for women.

You can feel comfortable walking any time of day, whether you’re alone or with a group,” commented Echols, noting that as a female hotel general manager, one of her top priorities is the safety of her guests at all times.

Bush seconds Echols’ comment in relation to The Gulch. “As a female, you can walk around and feel safe and find things to do without spending money for an Uber. Here [in the Gulch], I would [feel safe] any time of day or night.”

From shopping to dining, history to hotels, it’s easy to see how women of all ages and travel purposes are both catered to and celebrated in Nashville.

SCENIC DRIVES The focus on female entrepreneurship continues when you drive from Nashville to nearby Franklin. This small community features an adorable, walkable downtown with plenty of boutique shopping and local eateries. Scenic views also abound when you travel a portion of the Natchez Trace Parkway, which passes by Franklin on its way to Natchez, Mississippi. The 444-mile U.S. National Park Service-protected recreational road touches approximately 10,000 years of history.

For a scenic drive with a fun destination, take The Jack Trail, a Tennessee Scenic Trail stretching from Nashville to Lynchburg, home to Jack Daniel’s Distillery. Leave room for stops along the way, as the trail takes you past historic and natural attractions across central Tennessee.

For an enjoyable drive that highlights more history than nature, take the Antebellum Trail. As you leave Nashville, the trail takes you to the gorgeous Belle Meade Plantation, which could provide a day-long stop on its own. Further exploration of the trail’s 80-mile loop, though, reveals dozens of historic sites, including the James K. Polk home and Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage.

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mice | PARIS

The Lure of Paris Women find the City of Light irresistible for professional events. BY IRVINA LEW PARISIAN GRANDEUR: The Bonaparte Dinner at Shangri-La Hotel, Paris PHOTO: © SHANGRI-LA HOTELS AND RESORTS

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GASTRONOMY, GLAMOUR, GRANDEUR. The words alone evoke visions of Paris, the cultural capital that particularly lures women to professional events. Why not? The city, with its Haussman-style architecture, tree-lined boulevards and historic riverbanks offers an unparalleled backdrop for business. And women are unabashedly enthralled by its stellar reputation for food, fashion and romance.

Essentially, Paris takes on a bagel shape, though two teeny ancient islands stud the open middle. (On Île de la Cité, construction started for Notre Dame Cathedral in 1163; on Île Saint-Louis, private hôtels particuliers gentrified the island in the 17th century.) Cut the crusty bread irregularly in two to visualize how the river winds its way through the city, dividing it into Rive Gauche, the artsy Left Bank, and Rive Droite, the sophisticated Right Bank.

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With two international airports and flights from more than 500 cities — plus high-speed TGV trains connecting major European cities to its grand gares, the railroad stations — Paris proves emminently convenient to reach. And you’ll find taxis (with marked taxi stands), high-tech ride-hailing companies and efficient mass transit between airport and centre-ville.

In the City of Light your gatherings may take place in a giant convention center, ornate hotel or splendid department store. Perhaps you’ll convene within an imposing historical monument, one-of-a-kind art gallery, architecturally significant museum, glorious garden, impressive rooftop terrace, over-the-top nightclub, underground cabaret or cave (wine cellar), or on a vessel on the river. Not surprisingly, women appreciate conducting business within such emblematic cultural venues.

Meeting spaces stud many of the city’s 20 arrondissements. In the 1st, one of the oldest quartiers (neighborhoods) near the Louvre, a former 12th-century fortress, the Carrousel du Louvre, features a chic upstairs lounge, with event space in the adjacent royal gardens at The Espace Ephémère des Tuileries and at the Palais Royal gardens. (Try to reserve a table at Le Grand Véfour in the gardens.) In the trendy Marais, in the 4th, groups gather within the neo-Renaissance Hôtel de Ville and the Centre Pompidou, where the outdoor escalator leads to an amazing art collection; the bonus is on the terrace, with its Seine views. In the 8th, one-of-a-kind locations include Musée Jacquemart-André, the art-filled, 18th-centurystyled house museum facing elegant Parc Monceau; and Hôtel Salomon

LAVISH LUXURY:

Hotel du Collectionneur PHOTO: © HOTEL DU COLLECTIONNEUR

UNIQUE VENUES

The Bonaparte Dinner at Shangri-La Hotel, Paris, within a magnificently restored early20th-century palace, recreates an era when Prince Roland Bonaparte, Napoleon Bonaparte’s nephew, hosted opulent banquets. The evening revives these traditional soirees, beginning with close-up views of the glittering Eiffel Tower from the terrace and an aperitif toast. A butler, costumed in style Napoleon, welcomes the host and guests and announces, “Madame [or Monsieur] est servie,” before opening the doors to the Louis XIV-inspired, gold leaf-gilded Grand Salon and the regal fourcourse meal prepared by Michelin-starred chef Christophe Moret, which follows.

The lavish dinner for 20 — complete with candelabra, a floral table runner and Limoges porcelain — is served at a single oval table. Round tables are available for groups of up to 80. shangri-la.com/paris

de Rothschild, a sumptuous private mansion with idyllic spaces: 13 indoors and three on the estate grounds.

During Paris Fashion Weeks, designers showcase their collections in stylish venues. Chanel chose the Grand Palais, in the fashionable 8th; Hermès and Lanvin showed at the Espace Eiffel, in the 7th; and Agnès B. and Yves Saint Laurent in the strikingly modern Palais de Tokyo, in the 16th. Other wonderful spaces in the 16th include those within the Fondation Louis Vuitton — Frank Gehry’s soaring, ship-shaped opus which reinterprets 19th-century glass garden buildings. The terrace views there extend above the Bois de Boulogne (the city’s major park) to city landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower.

You and Francophiles may recall the mile-long Champs-Élysées reaches the Arc de Triomphe at the Étoile, where 12 streets converge. (It was commissioned

by Napoleon in 1806 and completed in 1836, after his death.) Beyond that, l’Avenue de la Grande Armée extends to the convention center, Le Palais des Congrès de Paris, at Porte Maillot in the 17th. The convention center houses almost 344,000 square feet of meeting areas, directly connected to the Hyatt Regency Paris Étoile. This 34-story skyscraper offers the largest meeting spaces inside a Parisian hotel and includes 35 modular event spaces which accommodate up to 2,800 guests.

Renovated in 2018, the hotel offers panoramic Parisian

views from its 995 rooms, and its culinary staff caters meals within hotel and convention center spaces. (If you prefer a smaller, boutique hotel, consider the chic La Villa Maillot, just a few short blocks away.)

A few of the hundreds of Parisian hotels provide striking and significant event space. A case in point: the art-filled Hotel du Collectionneur, the city’s largest 5-star hotel, located near the Étoile and featuring an ornate façade and stunning Art Deco décor with a monumental staircase. It provides 487 rooms; 18,000 square feet of meeting space; and 20 meeting rooms, including one lavish reception room that can host up to 650 people.

Its newly designed bar, restaurant and outdoor terrace made a swank debut in late 2018. The recently restored Hôtel de Crillon — with its pink marble floors; high, painted ceilings; and black, gold-trimmed, wrought iron railings — still feels like the 18th-century palace Louis XV commissioned in 1758 for the Count de Crillon. The 124-room hotel offers 6,600 square feet of meeting space; one 1,000-square-foot room boasts 20-foot ceilings, tall windows, formal molding and chandeliers. Outside, you’ll find the Place de la Concorde, the Musée d’Orsay, the Tuileries Gardens and Place Vendome.

American women, especially, adore Paris; among visitors, 61 percent — including those traveling to MICE events — are female.

Among the many vessels that cruise the Seine through the historic heart of the city, one — the new silent, electric motor yacht Ducasse sur Seine — boasts the multi-Michelin-starred chef’s team of 36 chefs, who prepare farm-to-table cuisine on board. Exquisitely served culinary specialties highlight each two-hour lunch or dinner voyage for 12 guests at La Table du Chef; 20 at Le Carre on the upper deck; and up to 102 guests at Le Pont Principal, which can also be divided for 45 guests. ducasse-seine.com

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9–5 | HONG KONG

Savvy City Find all you need to impress clients amid Hong Kong’s cultural fusion. BY KELLY MAGYARICS DIVERSE VIEWPOINTS:

(Left to right) Victoria Harbour, Asaya pool at Rosewood Hong Kong, and shopping at Causeway Bay PHOTOS: © KENG PO LEUNG - DREAMSTIME .COM, © ROSEWOOD HONG KONG, © PINDIYATH100 DREAMSTIME.COM

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HONG KONG, AT ITS CORE, REMAINS a destination based on fusion. Chinese and British history and culture continue to influence its personality: Its gastronomy offers an amalgamation of flavors drawing on Chinese, French, American and other cuisines, while its architecture, inspired by its Asian past and influenced by the West, proves distinctly Hong Kong in nature.

Over the years, an economy built on fishing and farming transformed into one based on finance and commerce. Hong Kong regained autonomy in 1997, and the Chinese government guarantees it for at least 50 years. Today it stands as the world’s fourth-most densely populated region; 92 percent claim Han Chinese descent, 95 percent of the population speaks Cantonese, and 53 percent speaks English.

Because it’s one of the world’s largest economic

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hubs, global business travelers regularly arrive and depart. More than 120 airlines fly in and out of Hong Kong International Airport, including United Airlines, British Airways, Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, American Airlines and Cathay Pacific. The latter is Hong Kong’s flagship carrier; if you fly business or first class, you’ll get to appreciate Cathay Pacific’s six lounges in Terminal 1 with amenities like napping cabanas, serviced shower suites, foot or back massages and workstations.

Dining concepts include a noodle bar, a Champagne bar and global fusion cuisine at sit-down restaurant The Haven.

After you’ve cleared immigration and customs at HKG, you can make the 20-mile trip downtown via Uber, taxi or public transportation. If you plan on taking mass transit during your stay, it pays to purchase an Octopus card, a contactless refillable card valid for all public transportation and also accepted at retail shops. And on your day of departure you can actually check in and check your luggage downtown at Hong Kong Station rather than lug it all back to the airport — a convenient and ingenious solution for business travelers.

A few new hotels opened in the past year. At the 5-star Rosewood Hong Kong, located in the Victoria Dockside Global Arts and Design District, 80 percent of the rooms and suites offer sweeping views of the harbor; it’s also the first in the brand to house Asaya, which promotes a wellness journey with spa treatments as well as expressive arts therapy, emotional awareness, meditation and mindfulness, and healthconscious cuisine in Asaya Kitchen. Most recent to open on site: Bayfare Social, a tapas-inspired gastro-market featuring all-day light dining and a convivial and leisurely setting for groups.

The St. Regis Hong Kong, a residentially inspired property in the vibrant Wan

Chai District, lies a five-minute walk from the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Host clients at L’Envol, serving innovative French cuisine overseen by Michelinstarred chef Olivier Elzer, or at Cantonese restaurant Rùn, led by award-winning chef Hung Chi-Kwong.

Tucked down a nondescript alley in the Central District, The Old Man may be tricky to spot, but it’s well worth seeking out for creative cocktails. Despite its recent opening in 2017, the lounge snagged the No. 1 spot on the 2019 list of the World’s Best Bars in Asia and ranked ninth on the overall list of the World’s Best Bars. Industry veterans Agung Prabowo, James Tamang and Roman Ghale created an intimate ode to the works of Ernest Hemingway via a mosaic Cubist back bar portrait of the author and liquid creations like The Sun Also Rises, with copra fat-washed applejack, curry leaf-infused gin, sweet vermouth, sous vide pandan leaves and makrut lime. It doesn’t take reservations, so get there early or plan on waiting to grab one of the coveted 29 seats.

Female chefs helm the kitchens of some of Hong Kong’s most exciting restaurants. Michelin-starred chef Vicky Lau owns and cooks at Tate Dining Room, which infuses an avant-garde sensibility into an eight-course tasting menu of “Edible Stories” melding French and Chinese cuisines.

Dishes evolve but may include surprises like seaweed jelly with cauliflower purée and conch and a warm sea scallop with aged kumquat Grenobloise sauce; an optional wine pairing offers pours to accompany three, six or all eight courses.

In 2017 Chef May Chow was named Asia’s Best Female Chef by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants; today she runs three concepts in Hong Kong. Little Bao in Causeway Bay proves perfect for a quick lunch of shareable plates and bao sandwiches; Second Drift in Little Tai Hang appeals to a happy hour crowd craving craft beer and inventive snacks like fries seasoned with cumin, takana, pickled mustard greens and dried chilies; and Happy Paradise fulfills Chow’s vision of a neighborhood hangout with neo-Chinese food like shiitake and garam masala tacos washed down by modern libations like Get Nuts, with peanut-infused bourbon, Sichuan salt and pepper, and sesame oil.

If you or your dining companions are vegan or vegetarian, make a reservation at Grassroots Pantry, a progressive plant-based restaurant in Sheung Wan run by Chef Peggy Chan with a mantra of “To make food do good.” Her philosophy shines in plates like beetroot carpaccio with aged cashew Parmesan, capers and fermented grainy mustard; and jackfruit rendang with butternut squash, broccolini, pickled chard, turmeric and ginger brown rice.

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after 5 | ZANZIBAR

Sundowner Time Spice up the night in Zanzibar’s Stone Town. BY SHERYL NANCE-NASH STRIKING IN ITS BEAUTY and rich in history, this spice island off the coast of Tanzania boasts several turquoisewater beaches, one more beautiful than the next.

Simply put, Zanzibar is a water wonderland. Take your pick: snorkel, dive, go deep-sea or fly fishing, jet ski or set sail on a catamaran.

You can’t consider your trip to Zanzibar complete, though, without time spent in Stone Town, the capital city. This is where the action is.

Walk the narrow streets and alleys and you’ll feel like you’re in a movie. The Arabic architecture adds to the charm. Make your way to Darajani Market. There’s little you won’t find there: fruits, vegetables, seafood, beef, goat and local spices, but also toys, shoes, clothes and anything to enhance daily living. After dark, get your local food fix at the Forodhani Gardens night market.

Do visit Sultan’s Palace Museum (open until 6 p.m. weekdays) and The Africa House Hotel, formerly the English Club, perhaps best known for its popular sundowner venue.

Also stop by the Old Fort, built by Arabs for defense against the Portuguese.

But for a deep dive in history, go to the Old Slave Market/Anglican Cathedral.

It proves both powerful and painful, particularly the statues on the museum grounds depicting slaves standing side by side in chains.

To lift your spirits, venture to one of the city’s bars and restaurants. You’ll also find a lively vibe among the eateries and bars on the northwestern coast near Nungwi and Kendwa.

If you have a free afternoon and enjoy the solace of nature, head to Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park and its monkeys, bush babies and more than 40 types of birds.

Consider, too, a Kizimkazi dolphin tour, where you can see humpback and bottlenose dolphins at play.

For an intimate setting, the Elewana Kilindi Zanzibar Resort reigns as the chill spot. Sip elaborate sundowners on the beach as you marvel at the sunset as well as the cocktails

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and Champagne. Secluded and with a semiprivate beach, its privacy and safety make it ideal for female guests, solo female travelers and the LGBTQ+ community.

You’ll love the waterfall bar within the resort’s Main Pavilion overlooking an 80-foot-long infinity pool and offering outrageous panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. Come dinner time, dine on the alfresco terrace or along the pristine beach. Spoil yourself further with a stop in the Kilindi Spa, tucked away in tropical gardens. You’ll be in good hands.

NIGHT GLOW:

Local people selling food at night market (top), and Elewana Kilindi Zanzibar Resort bar area (left) and pool (above)

PHOTOS: © DANMIR12 - DREAMSTIME .COM, © ELEWANA COLLECTION

El Dorado

six decades of operation,

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neighborhoods | CARTAGENA

Gentrification of Getsemeni Cartagena’s once gritty neighborhood transforms to a hip hangout.

BY ELLEN CLARK

Cartagena PAN

AMA

VENEZUELA Medellín Bogota

COLOMBIA

BRAZIL

ECUADOR

PERU

IT’S TOUGH TO BEAT CARTAGENA, Colombia, when it comes to pure historic beauty and charm.

Its Old Town brims with superbly preserved Spanish Colonial architecture within almost seven miles of centuries-old stone walls. Needless to say, it proves an unparalleled tourist magnet. But, recently, savvy visitors started heading to a new haunt.

Just outside the city gates, the Getsemani neighborhood is hip and cool — but it wasn’t always so.

The barrio once housed servants for the upper class.

Unfortunately, in the 1980s and ’90s the neighborhood deteriorated and became a place of poverty, crime and drugs. Hard to believe, as today it proves one of the hottest neighborhoods in the city, boasting plenty of colorful buildings, impressive nighttime action and some of the best food in town.

La Cocina de Pepina offers a cozy place to sample Colombian cuisine. With a family feel, its specialties include such tantalizing dishes as coconut-based fish and shrimp soup and chicken soup with hominy.

Somewhat surprisingly, the city boasts a fair share of pizza restaurants. In the Getsemani neighborhood,

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Pizza Carbón not only offers yummy pizza but also a primo location, right on Plaza de la Trinidad.

At night you can indulge in some alfresco dining while watching local battling dance troupes and, of course, listening to music.

For a less expensive option, head to the main square and try some local street food.

Freshly fried empanadas come with a variety of sauces, and grilled, buttery arepas made with sweet corn and cheese are beyond delicious. You can stuff yourself for less than $5.

Café Havana rocks the late-night scene with potent mojitos and a live salsa band. Local aficionados pack the place to the rafters, though, so come early to secure a spot.

Getsemani is completely safe at all hours, so women traveling alone can wander around the neighborhood with no worries. In fact, hanging out at a table on the plaza with a cold drink makes a dandy way to while away the evening and maybe even make new friends.

ART OF THE CITY: Metal sculpture outside a bar in Getsemeni (left), and a man standing in front of a mural before it was touched up (right) PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK

over th ts c s wi i t ar alls l w a c d Lo hoo The hbor als. es r u neig m clud l l n u i f r tter tica colo t ma om poli c e j life. fr sub ing mily h a t f y o ever ts t men e t a st

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friends & family | TAIPEI

Pride of Place Friendly and fascinating Taipei welcomes all with open arms. BY MEGAN HILL INFO TO GO

International flights touch down at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport, about 25 miles outside of Taipei. Taxis charge metered rates, with a ride to downtown Taipei usually costing around NT$1,150 (about $38). The city also operates a train connection to the airport, the Taoyuan Airport MRT. Train tickets between Taipei and the airport cost NT$160 (about $5) and the ride takes 35–45 minutes.

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TENS OF THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE filed through the streets of Taipei in record-setting fashion, decked out in all manner of rainbow regalia, waving Pride flags and carrying homemade banners with phrases like “Closets Are for Clothes.”

Last October’s Taipei Pride Parade — the first since Taiwan became the first in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage — was the country’s biggest yet. Taipei Pride, consistently the largest such event in Asia since launching in 2003, attracts visitors from around the Pacific and the world. The 2019 event, with its theme, “Together, Make Taiwan Better,” drew 170,000–250,000 people from an estimated 100 countries.

While parade organizers readily admit there’s still a lot of work to do to further equality in Taiwan and around the world, the 2019 parade — and the country’s welcoming atmosphere — prove Taipei and Taiwan as a whole offer generally progressive places for gender and sexual minorities to visit.

The glass-and-steel high-rises of Taipei back up to verdant, volcanic mountains that bubble and steam. This volcanic activity extends into the city limits, creating hot

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rrent ’s cu i n a w Tai ent, Tsa d presi n, claims e Ing-w l firsts: ’s a ry sever he count old t h s She’ oman to , w ce first hest offi nt e ig its h st presid r i f n the th Ha of bo e and ent, es Chin ous desc ’s en indig e country h t and nmarried u first ent. d presi

HOT SPOTS:

(Left to right) Beitou Thermal Valley, the National Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall, and The Red House theater

PHOTOS: © CHON KIT LEONG DREAMSTIME.COM, © TAWATCHAI PRAKOBKIT - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ZEROBUG2000 - DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING MANDARIN ORIENTAL, TAIPEI This 5-star property a short walk from the nearest subway station puts all of Taipei at your fingertips.

With sprawling, modern suites and the largest hotel spa in Taiwan, it’s hard to go wrong here.

158 Dunhua N. Road $$$$

springs perfect for relaxation after a business meeting or long flight. A cluster of spas and hotels catering to these experiences popped up in Beitou Hot Springs, which has gender-segregated bathhouses, including the public Millennium Hot Spring, with pools of varying temperatures. Visitors can learn the history of the area’s hot springs culture through the free-to-enter Beitou Hot Springs Museum. If bathhouses don’t appeal, consider the option of exploring the Beitou Thermal Valley area via paved trails that visit open-air hot springs.

LGBTQ+ travelers can tap into the local queer scene at GinGin Bookstore, claiming to be the first of its kind in Taiwan. The small shop offers a variety of rainbow ephemera plus books, magazines and films that cater to queer audiences.

Owner Lai Jeng-jer created a hub for Taipei’s queer community in the face of impressive odds, including censorship and violence. The shop makes a great place to shop for souvenirs, or you can plan a visit around an event like a public forum, art showing or book signing.

At feminist café Witch House, owner Pen Yu-Jin not only operates a safe space for women and the LGBTQ+ community,

she’s also built a springboard for up-and-coming musicians to showcase their talents. Whether you come to unwind with a board game and a selection from the innuendo-laden menu or come to catch a show, you’ll find lots to love about this spot, where the chairs wear bras and women who do 10 pushups get 10 percent off.

Witch House’s next-door neighbor, Fembooks, is one of the few feminist bookstores in the region. Founded in 1994 by women’s rights activists, the shop uplifts women’s voices through its impressive collection of Chinese-language books and films exploring gender and women’s issues.

Taipei also boasts a thriving LGBTQ+ nightlife scene, which clusters around the landmark performance hall The Red House. The square behind the building brims with outdoor bars that largely cater to queer travelers. Venues range from lesbian dance club Taboo to candlelit cocktail bar Café Dalida to the massive gay dance club and karaoke lounge G*Star.

As a city of more than 2 million inhabitants, Taipei naturally offers more than experiences catered specifically to women and LGBTQ+ travelers. For a hands-on experience

REGENT TAIPEI This true retreat in the heart of Taipei wows with luxury suites and amenities, from a rooftop swimming pool and spa to tea-infused cocktails and live music in the lounge.

Don’t miss the outstanding buffet breakfast.

3 Lane 39, Section 2, Zhongshan N. Road $$$ VILLA 32 Tucked in the leafy Beitou Hot Springs district, Villa 32 sits among verdant landscaping and waterfalls.

Guests enjoy uniquely decorated guestrooms plus access to the property’s gorgeous hot springs bathhouses.

32 Zhongshan Road $$$$$

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NIGHT AND DAY:

Night market (top), and Huashan 1914 Creative Park (bottom) PHOTOS: © GABRIEL MURAD - DREAMSTIME .COM, © SANGA PARK - DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING THE GUEST HOUSE Hunan and Sichuan influences are filtered through a Taiwanese lens at this Michelin 2-starred restaurant housed on the 17th floor of the Sheraton. You can reserve VIP rooms if you’re coming with a group.

Sheraton Grand Taipei Hotel, 12 Section 1, Zhongxiao E. Road $$$ LE PALAIS Elaborate dim sum and Chinese banquet-style meals unfold at this rare Michelin 3-starred restaurant in the Datong district. Standouts include Cantonese specialties like crispy roast duck and baked egg custard.

Palais de Chine Hotel, 3 Section 1, Chengde Road $$$$$ SHOUN RYUGIN Taiwan’s Japanese influences are on display at this kaiseki restaurant, specializing in seasonally influenced dishes made from Taiwan- and Japansourced ingredients. Diners can choose between seven and 10 courses.

301 Lequn Third Road $$$

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sure to bond participants, visit Cooking 101 for an entry-level Chinese cooking class. You’ll learn to make classic dishes like beef noodle soup, soup dumplings, bubble tea and oyster omelets, depending on the class offered. The friendly staff helps make techniques more accessible and the overall experience lighthearted and fun.

Taipei’s National Palace Museum proves another staple must-see for visitors. The sprawling museum complex houses 700,000 artifacts and works of art from ancient China in a collection that spans 8,000 years of history. The collection has a dramatic origin, as the items here were evacuated in the wake of the Chinese Civil War for fear the Communist army would destroy China’s most prized artifacts.

For a bird’s-eye view of Taipei’s impressive setting, ride

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the high-speed elevators to the observation deck at the Taipei 101 Tower, the city’s tallest building — and for a while the tallest in the world. Here, you can take in 360-degree views of Taipei, and on a clear day you’ll see into the mountains and over the surrounding area. You’ll have to work a little harder if you opt to take in the skyline from Elephant Mountain, where stairs climb through a dense forest to several city viewpoints.

No visit to Taipei is complete without a stop at one of the city’s iconic night markets, street-side collections of stalls where vendors hawk a variety of food and drinks plus other necessities. Taipei boasts several worthwhile night markets, but the Raohe Street Night Market checks a lot of boxes. One of the oldest in the city, it’s particularly known for its outstanding food.

Keep an eye out for must-haves like the Fuzhou black pepper bun, oyster vermicelli, stinky tofu, potato spirals and more.

Head home with a unique keepsake from one of the many vendors at Huashan 1914 Creative Park. This impressive complex once housed a wine production facility and moth orchid breeding operation. The warehouses and surrounding land have been remade into a maze of shops, cafés and picturesque park space.The complex also serves as a creative hub, hosting musicians, sculptors, painters and performers. You might catch a performance, sip Taipei-brewed beer and come home with Taiwan-grown tea or a piece of art to commemorate your trip.

tours | CHRISTCHURCH

Fresh Start

Explore a new Christchurch as it rebuilds from devastating earthquakes. BY SHARON KING HOGE CHRISTCHURCH IS REBOUNDING from 2010 and 2011 earthquakes that devastated the city, destroying 80 percent of the downtown Central Business District and killing 185 citizens. When I visited in 2012, the ruins of the central city were cordoned off — I recall peering through barriers to see the fallen tower of the stately cathedral and then driving by the temporary Cardboard Cathedral built of cardboard tubes, timber and steel. As that temporary church continues to hold services, the church spire is displayed at the Quake City Museum, and plans to rebuild — not replace — the cathedral are in discussion.

In the rest of the CBD Red Zone, recovery is well underway. Guided tours pass the new Convention Centre rising on Cathedral Square; the rebuilt Town Hall of Performing Arts; and the Memorial Wall, with a spray fountain where visitors wet their hands in the Māori tradition of cleansing after visiting a grave.

Street art walking tours focus on many colorful outdoor murals. The bustling new Riverside Market attracts visitors to galleries, restaurants, bars and nightclubs of The Terrace.

Christchurch serves as a base camp for active exploring. Chill Bike Tours rents vintage bicycles for pedaling past heritage sites. Flat-bottomed punts offer rides on the river, and a gondola rises up to the Port Hills. A hop-on, hop-off Tram Tour passes 17 stops with commentary showcasing the Botanic Gardens, the Gothic Revival-style Arts Centre, the Canterbury Museum and visits to affluent coastal suburbs. Even adults acclaim Margaret Mahy Playground, the largest in the Southern Hemisphere.

In “the city of pioneering women,” the mayor and CEO are female, and you can find lists of workshops, performances and other activities for women online. Efficient guides listed on the ToursBy Locals website help make arrangements for specialty activities. One guide features visits to privately owned gardens, including one with a forest of sacred, native, giant kauri trees. Another takes visitors to the merino sheep farm his family has owned since 1884 to interact with neighbors, feed the chickens and watch dogs herding the sheep.

Guests dine on local produce — mutton, yogurt, cabbage, pears, peaches — and taste Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and other wines from nearby vineyards such as Greystone, Pyramid Valley and Waipara Springs.

RECREATION:

A kayaker paddles past The Terrace, a newly built entertainment complex on the banks of the Avon River (top), and Margaret Mahy Family Playground (right) PHOTOS: © TRAVELLING-LIGHT - DREAMSTIME.COM, © HOYWAII - DREAMSTIME.COM

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ne off o d e k ic kes k jects thqua r a n pro g e i s 1 e 1 d ory. nd 20 rban d hist a u n e a 0 l l g 1 a n 0 w Ze est si The 2 in Ne great e h t of

FOR

ALL THE MOMENTS WE STAND UP

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bucket list | NORWAY

Astronomical Delight Observe nature’s most dramatic sky show: the northern lights. BY IRENE RAWLINGS

ARCTIC LIGHT: (Left to right) Aurora borealis on the Lofoten Islands, the view near Tromsø, and Svolvær by night PHOTOS: © BILETSKIY DREAMSTIME.COM, © MARCIN WOJCIECHOWSKI DREAMSTIME.COM, © VLADESCU BOGDAN DREAMSTIME.COM

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MY OBSESSION WITH AURORA BOREALIS (northern lights) started in my grandma’s attic. I was there to help her clean out “old junk,” but instead I sat with a pile of old National Geographic magazines — riveted by spectacular photos of northern lights that seemed to shimmer and dance right there on the page.

No one had a bucket list back then, but as soon as such a thing existed, the northern lights were at the top of mine.

Although northern lights are visible in many places — Iceland, Greenland, Canada, Finland, Russia and, sometimes, even the northern United States — I decided on Norway’s dark and remote Lofoten Islands, partly because they are washed by the Gulf Stream, making for milder mid-winter weather.

After landing in Oslo, I took a two-hour flight to Tromsø (above the Arctic Circle), where I would spend a few days before renting a car and taking a scenic, 17-hour car ferry journey to the town of Svolvær, Lofoten’s unofficial capital. Flights from Tromsø to the islands take about an hour — or don’t go at all, depending on weather.

I wanted to stop in Tromsø — the biggest city in the “Aurora Zone” — because it is known for reliable northern-light sightings, a buzzy nightlife and authentic Nordic restaurants. I ate salmon marinated in Aperol and reindeer beef at Emmas Drømmekjøk-

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ken, stopped for a drink at Ølhallen (67 Norwegian ales on tap) and ended up listening to a local rock band at Bastard Bar. Each time I stepped outdoors, I was greeted by a blast of icy air (it was minus 6 degrees Fahrenheit) and an incredible light show — undulating ribbons of green and purple light.

Accommodations in Tromsø range from the 4-star Radisson Blu Hotel to studio apartments listed on Airbnb. I chose something different: the Tromsø Ice Domes Hotel in a pristine valley about 60 miles northeast of the city. From the outside, the domes are shaped much like the snow igloos we made as children, but inside they display stunning ice sculptures of Arctic wildlife and indigenous reindeer herder (Sami) culture. I slept, mummy-like, in an expedition sleeping bag on a comfortable mattress covered by reindeer skins but on a bed carved entirely out of ice. In my thermals and pull-over-the-ears wool hat, I was completely warm … except for my nose. Some highlights: guided snowshoeing to look for northern lights, hot chocolate liberally laced with Baileys, a salmon and veggie dinner cooked over an open fire and driving my own pair of huskies on a dogsled tour.

When I boarded the car ferry (heading for the Lofoten Islands) at 1:30 a.m. the next day, the northern lights appeared jawdroppingly brilliant. The trip may have been scenic in summer,

slands Lofoten I e h t e c n experie lays March to light disp e n t r e la h t o r t o y rch. winter. N -Februar r and Ma r e id la b o m m p e m t f o p o r e Visit f hs of S darkness inox mont u complete q e e h e t h g t in id around while avo intensify

but now, in near-inky darkness, we only saw lights of small, coast-hugging villages along the way … and the white, green and purple northern lights shifting and swaying overhead like a silky curtain in the wind.

The scientific explanation — collisions between electrically charged particles carried from flare-ups on the sun into the Earth’s upper atmosphere by solar winds — is a less poetic way to describe aurora borealis (northern lights) and aurora australis (southern lights). Viewings are best when solar flares are the strongest and the skies are clear. Sometimes the show lasts for 10 minutes, sometimes it lasts all night.

Tromsø, the Lofoten Islands and other Norwegian towns above the Arctic Circle experience a long and cold polar night, several weeks during which the sun does not rise at all. Tromsø’s polar night usually lasts from the beginning of December until mid-January. In late January, a shimmer of pink and gold appears on the horizon as the sun rises briefly at midday and quickly sets, leaving the world bathed in a deep blue light that can last for several hours until night takes over again. Nature photographers come here especially to capture this magical but elusive Arctic light.

When the ferry finally docked in Svolvær, I had only a 10-

minute drive to my hotel — Swinøya Rorbuer, a collection of original, restored fishing cabins (robu), each with a kitchen.

But why cook? Børsen Spiseri, a fish-centric restaurant in a repurposed quayside warehouse, lay a mere few steps away.

About the dramatic and windswept Lofoten Islands: The spectacular 110-mile archipelago (five large islands — connected by bridges or tunnels — and numerous islets) boasts traditional fishing villages and a history dating from before the Vikings. Aurora borealis season usually lasts longer here, from September until mid-April. Most beaches (there are many) are away from city lights, making them perfect viewing spots. I booked a late-night, slow-tempo ride at stables in the small village of Hov. I rode on Arctic white beaches astride the small, muscular horses favored by Vikings back in the day. A pre-ride dinner of foraged and freshcaught food was served in a restaurant housed in an old hay barn.

The colorful ribbons of light I attempted to capture on my cellphone are blurry reminders of a long-imagined, finally accomplished trip. I saw northern lights every day of my late January adventure. I’m told that is unusual, and that I’m lucky. I absolutely agree.

INFO TO GO

Most international airlines fly to Norway’s Oslo Airport. A two-hour flight connects Oslo to Tromsø via SAS or Norwegian, and a one-hour flight on regional airline Widero takes you from Tromsø to the Lofoten Islands. Accommodations in Tromsø and the Lofoten Islands can easily be arranged online. Tromsø Ice Domes Hotel is open from December through March (depending on weather) and charges $1,500 per night for two people, all-inclusive. You can find weather alerts for most likely northern lights viewing at aurora-service.eu/ aurora-forecast.

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kicking back | LOS CABOS

Idyllic Retreat

Find sanctuary in Los Cabos’ blend of coastline, mountains and desert. BY KATIE MCELVEEN

g an Brin : layer extra s on Day ea of the S nd ez a Cort s on night t eser the d et can g cool.

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SOME HOTELS TRY TO WOO FEMALE guests with offers that include shopping expeditions, afternoon tea and, perhaps, a free yoga class. Not Grand Velas Los Cabos.

Guests who book the resort’s five-night Alpha Female Getaway can look forward to power hiking through the Sierra de la Laguna biosphere reserve, with a stop to swim in one of the reserve’s mineral-rich hot springs; a threehour private yacht adventure with time for snorkeling and paddle boarding; free use of electric bikes; and a four-hands tequila massage, an 80-minute treatment that uses ancestral stretching techniques to release muscle tension and a tequila rubdown to heal inflammation.

They’re not alone. All over Los Cabos, from Cabo San Lucas to San José del Cabo, 20 miles northeast, women are getting out of their hotels and exploring the coastline,

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mountains, desert and small villages like never before. One reason is the increased safety in this part of Mexico, which comes as the result of a recent upgrade to security processes, personnel and infrastructure. By early 2018 Los Cabos had reclaimed a safety classification on par with the United Kingdom and France. Another is the region’s dramatic natural beauty: Beyond a sapphire-blue sea, the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains rise in the distance. In between, speckled with deep green oases, lies a vast, tawny desert. It’s accessible, too, thanks to a spate of English-speaking outfitters who emphasize safety as much as they do exploration. A third is the increase in opportunities to explore the region’s culture through food, art and traditional wellness therapies.

Start outdoors. Separating the Baja Peninsula from the mainland, the Sea of Cortez is studded with dramatic rock formations such as El Arco, the iconic arch that marks the meeting point of the sea and the Pacific Ocean, and Seal Rock, where you can spot hundreds of sea lions loung-

INFO TO GO

The recently renovated Los Cabos International Airport lies about 25 miles from downtown Cabo San Lucas and eight miles from San José del Cabo.

Resorts are spread between the two cities. Direct flights from major U.S. hubs operate yearround.

GOING COASTAL:

(Left to right) Hiking along the shore, and enjoying the blue waters PHOTOS: © LOS CABOS TOURIST BOARD

LODGING ESPERANZA, AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION Gracious and welcoming, this boutique resort rests on a rocky bluff overlooking the sea. Rooms display local artwork; some have private plunge pools and hammocks.

Carretera Transpeninsular Km. 7, Punta Ballena, Cabo San Lucas $$$$$

ing in the sunshine. Boat tours of this watery wonderland abound, but for a quieter exploration, book a guided trip with Cabo SUP, which sits on pretty Medano Beach. Instructors can get just about anyone up and paddling; but if you’re more comfortable sitting than standing, there are kayaks on hand as well. Either way, prepare to get wet: The snorkeling is fantastic.

Inland, zoom over Cabo’s sand-swept hills to gorgeous views of the ocean on Wild Canyon Adventures’ specially designed vehicles. Along the way you’ll learn about this unique ecosystem, spot cool rock formations and get an adrenalineboosting thrill from maneuvering your ATV down sandy slopes, through dry riverbeds and along twisty trails. You can also fly over a half-mile of jungly canyons and desert arroyos on zip lines strung 300 feet above the ground or explore the desert on the back of a friendly dromedary camel.

Los Cabos hides a secret within its sandy desert: a lush oasis where organic farmers like Enrique Silva grow bushels of lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, herbs and other delights year-round. In 2011 Silva opened a restaurant, Huerta Los Tamarindos, as a way to use the produce he’d been growing since creating the farm in 2002. Housed in a 19th-century brick hacienda, the restaurant overlooks more than 100 varieties of vegetables, herbs, flowers and fruit trees, all used in the

restaurant and bar. Instead of just eating, consider working for your lunch (and learning a few secrets of Baja cooking) with one of the restaurant’s cooking classes. Start with mashing botanicals like mangos and pink-hued basil into colorful margaritas and, after a good bit of chopping and sautéing, end with lunch on the porch.

Traditional Maya customs come together with yoga, breathwork and other practices in consciousness-boosting workshops run by Ofelia G. Bojórquez and the team at Baja Wellness. They’re available privately or through The Cape, a Thompson Hotel, where they’re a component of the resort’s quarterly wellness retreat program that also includes beach fitness, healthy meals, meditation sessions and spa treatments.

Throughout the year the resort offers a cacao breathing ceremony. It uses music, oils, meditative techniques and other therapies to create a holistic sensory experience. It’s a soothing way to ease into a day at the resort’s oceanfront spa.

Founded in the mid-18th century, San José del Cabo is the cultural hub of the region. Galleries run the gamut from classic to modernist, offering paintings, sculpture, jewelry, ceramics, carvings, photographs and drawings by trained artists and talented artisans. Also find coffee houses, restaurants, cafés and shops, all of which stay open late on Thursday nights from October through June for the city’s Art Walk. One of the

GRAND VELAS LOS CABOS The food at this sprawling all-inclusive is so good, diners come from other resorts. Plan to spend the day at the spa; treatments include an hour-long water ritual.

1 Corredor Turístico Km. 17, San José del Cabo $$$$$ THE CAPE, A THOMPSON HOTEL Rooms and suites at this sleek, contemporary resort overlook one of Cabo’s top surfing beaches. The Rooftop is the hippest bar in Baja.

Carretera Transpeninsular Km. 5, Misiones del Cabo $$$$$

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ADVENTURES IN NATURE: Paddle boarding (top), and zip lining (bottom)

PHOTOS: © LOS CABOS TOURIST BOARD

DINING EDITH’S A Los Cabos icon, Edith Jimenez’s namesake restaurant serves specialties from Baja and her native Guerrero. Mexican coffee, flamed tableside, makes a thrilling way to end the meal.

Camino a Playa El Medano s/n, Cabo San Lucas $$$$ EL FARALLÓN Chef Miriam Jimenez presides over the most dramatic dining room in Los Cabos, an outdoor patio set directly over the ocean. Stop at the Champagne bar on the way in.

1 Camino del Mar, Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas $$$$$ FLORA’S FIELD KITCHEN Husband and wife team Guillermo and Leslie Tellez made this farm café a go-to dining destination.

Start with pizza; end with Leslie’s ice cream creation of the day.

Flora Farms, Carretera Transpeninsular Km. 30, San José del Cabo $$$$

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most well-known galleries is owned by Patricia Mendoza, a native of La Paz who, after years living and collecting art in Mexico City, decided to move back to Baja. “I’ve always loved art in any of its expressions and collected a lot of it over the years,” she said. “There was a moment where I needed to sell some of it, and my friends began to ask me to do it for them, and the gallery was born.”

At Montage Los Cabos, Faryn Clark collaborated with local artisans to create on-trend clothing, home accessories and jewelry rooted in traditional craft techniques. Her boutique, Eclectic Array, sells dog leashes, high-top tennis shoes, throw pillows, clutch purses and other items made from colorful, hand-loomed fabrics, while boho-styled bathing suit coverups and tunics feature delicate embroidery.

Another way to experience Cabo’s culture is to help at an area nonprofit. Operated by Solmar resorts, The Solmar Foundation supports Los Cabos’ most vulnerable communities, including the aged, the homeless and the orphaned.

Twice a week, foundation director Dinorah DeHaro takes guests to visit some of the people being helped by the foundation.

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Fundacion Sarahuaro was founded in 2005 to support and empower mothers in poverty by teaching life skills and English, a gateway to higher-paying resort-based jobs. In 2013 Sarahuaro created the Children’s Kitchen, which relies on nearly 200 volunteers each day to prepare and serve meals to school children. Since meals are served exclusively at school, they provide a powerful incentive for kids to attend classes every day. Volunteers can help serve meals any time during the school year.

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TEL AVIV

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

MONUMENTAL ICELAND MAGIC ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE

Easter Island intrigues with its mysterious stone statues. p. 72

CORNWALL p. 62 CURAÇAO p. 74 CUSCO p. 70 DOHA p.50 DURBAN p.64 FALKLAND ISLANDS p. 66 AND ICEp.60 GHENT PITTSBURGH p. 56 SEOUL p. 58

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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lgbtq+

Evolving Issues The lesbian travel niche commands new attention from the industry. BY MARK CHESNUT LESBIAN TRAVELERS ARE MORE PRESENT than ever in the travel and tourism industry according to Tanya Churchmuch, founder and president, MuchPR, a travel and LGBTQ+ public relations firm based in New York City.

“Lesbian travelers have evolved in that we are now looking to be more represented in the LGBTQ spectrum,” she said. “For so long, the ‘L’ was more of a token acknowledgement, and to be honest, it often still is. But things are improving within the queer travel community.”

In addition to her other activities, Churchmuch serves as lesbian brand ambassador for Out Adventures, a tour operator that just launched a series of programs for lesbians in 2020. “For 10 years, [Out Adventures had] mainly been offering group tours aimed at gay men, but for 2020 they felt that it was important to develop offerings specifically for lesbians,” she said. “This is a very rare move in our industry. While many gay men talk about lesbian visibility in travel, it’s not often that gay men put their money where their mouth is and invest in the market. Also, while there are many gay men in senior leadership roles in the travel and tourism industry, there are very few lesbians in these positions.

Visibility counts, and it’s important that more lesbians are given the opportunity to represent the community at this level.”

What about the travelers themselves? “The biggest way that the ‘L’ segment differs from other travelers is the fact that we are women, and that generally comes first in our travel considerations,” Churchmuch said. “Will we be safe as women where we go? Is it safe for us to walk the streets alone at night or with a female partner?”

Churchmuch also noted the lesbian travel niche often overlaps with family travel. “Many more lesbians are parents with children living at home, compared to the rest of the LGBTQ community, so family travel also plays a bigger role,” she explained.

Destinations and organizations that recognize this market tend to build a devoted following, Churchmuch added. “Places like Provincetown, San Francisco, Las Vegas, New York City and Vancouver, which have long marketed to the lesbian community, remain very popular lesbian destinations.”

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ON A JOURNEY:

Out Adventures’ Iceland tour (above), and Tanya Churchmuch (left) PHOTOS: © IRIS SERBANESCU, © TANYA CHURCHMUCH

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airport update

Leading the Way Women ascend to top positions at airports around the world. BY ERICH MARTIN

BUSY HUB:

Terminal T1 public area at Josep Tarradellas Barcelona-El Prat International Airport PHOTO: © SVETLANAIS DREAMSTIME.COM

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AVIATION CONTINUES TO EXPAND and grow. Each year new technologies evolve to make flying more efficient, more comfortable and more convenient. At many of the world’s major airports, women oversee this continued success and innovation.

Here we celebrate a few of the airport-leading women from around the world.

In 2013 Vernice Walkine became the president and CEO of Nassau Airport Development Co. in the Bahamas. Now officially called the Lynden Pindling International Airport, this hub serves as the biggest arrival and departure gateway in the country.

Before ascending to the level of CEO, Walkine put in time in the tourism industry. She was the first woman to serve as the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism’s director general of tourism.

Since taking over, Walkine managed a growing staff and oversaw the airport’s final development, totaling more than $409 million.

On the other side of the Atlantic, Sonia Corrochano has been director of the Josep Tarradellas Barcelona-El Prat International Airport since 2012. Under Aena, the airport operator responsible for Spanish airport management, Corrochano has led one of the busiest airports in Spain — and the world — for almost 10 years.

Corrochano earned a degree in higher aeronautical engineering which she uses to keep the airport running in tip-top shape.

Before taking on the directorship at Barcelona, Corrochano worked on construction and renovations projects at the airport.

As director, she helped to implement new commercial plans for the airport and consolidate the airport’s growth.

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In the Mediterranean, Eleni Kaloyirou took over as CEO of Hermes Airports in Larnaka and Pafos in April 2016. Located in Cyprus, both airports handle regular international traffic.

Kaloyirou has more than 25 years of experience in aviation, spending most of that time in executive positions with Cyprus Airways, first as CFO and then deputy CEO. Kaloyirou now puts her experience to good use. In 2019 the airports facilitated travel for 11.3 million passengers, signifying a 60 percent increase since 2016. Under Kaloyirou the airports have undertaken significant sustainability initiatives, including the reduction of carbon emissions and improved energy management. Each sustainability goal is outlined in the organization’s policies, making it clear improvements remain a priority for these Cypriot facilities.

Back in the United States, Rochelle Cameron makes waves on the East Coast as the CEO of Philadelphia International Airport. Prior to her appointment as CEO in January 2016, Cameron spent years with the Metropolitan Washington Airports Authority and then joined the Philadelphia leadership team as deputy director of aviation, finance and administration in 2011.

Recently, The Philadelphia Business Journal named Cameron the Most Admired CEO. Cameron oversees planning, development and activities for the airport, which brings in more than $16 billion annually and is responsible for supporting more than 100,000 jobs. Throughout her tenure, Cameron made improving facilities and the passenger experience her top priorities.

medical tourism

Aesthetic Expeditions Beautiful Brazil attracts more than adventurous sun seekers. BY DEBRA BOKUR

SINCE ITS EMERGENCE as a sought-after service niche, medical tourism has become one of Brazil’s fastest-growing industries, a global role reflected in the sophistication of its physicians, surgeons and medical facilities. Particularly well-known for plastic surgery, Brazil ranks as one of the top five countries in the world for cosmetic procedures.

Over the past several years, this South American country’s medical treatment offerings have expanded to include high-quality procedures encompassing cardiology, neurology, orthopedics, dental work, fertility treatments and diagnostic medicine.

Brazil boasts more than 60 hospitals and medical centers accredited by the prestigious Joint Commission International — in fact, the celebrated Albert Einstein Hospital in São Paulo was the first medical center outside of the United States accredited by JCI. The majority of Brazil’s JCI-sanctioned facilities are located in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, while others can be found in Porto Alegre, Salvador da Bahia, Recife, Belém, Belo Horizonte and additional towns.

For the medical tourist, Brazil’s wide selection of large institutions and intimate, private hospitals means it’s possible to choose the type of setting that’s most personally appealing as well as a location that’s most conducive to relaxing before a therapy or for recuperation post-procedure. If being surrounded by a vibrant city sounds like the perfect way to accelerate recovery, medical treatments in Rio de Janeiro can later be followed by tours of the historic sites, visits to the beaches at Copacabana and Ipanema, or even timed to coincide with the music and pageantry of the city’s annual Carnival celebration.

Slightly less intense and filled with stunning examples of architecture, ranging from Colonial to neo-Gothic, São Paulo has a large concentration of top-ranked hospitals. And for an even more low-key experience, Porto Alegre is known for its parks and greenery. As the capital of the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul near the border of Uruguay and Argentina, Porto Alegre also offers plenty in the way of culture and history.

Whether you think of scheduling a medical procedure as a side benefit to a vacation or the other way around, Brazil’s combination of quality care and gorgeous scenery proves a persuasive combination.

ON HIGH:

Aerial view of Christ the Redeemer statue at Corcovado overlooking Rio de Janeiro PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN - DREAMSTIME.COM

of cost e h t cal razil medi In B y t i l ess qua ire l u highq e l can r ancia n i f care the e half as th than t n e e itm in th comm eatment tr same States. ed Unit

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preview

At first sight, this fascinating, otherworldly terrain looks like the set of a Star Wars film. Perhaps it would be even more striking from above, surmised the first hot air balloon adventurers in 1989, who ventured to the sky for an advertising promotion. Today, hot air ballooning above this region of Cappadocia is a must-do activity when visiting Turkey.

Learn more about the balloons next month as you read Bucket List: Cappadocia.

PHOTO: Š KITTIPLACE - DREAMSTIME.COM

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