March 2020

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March 2020

BUCHAREST p.66 COLUMBUS p.58 COOK ISLANDS p.68 FLORIDA KEYS p. 74 LUCERNE p.64 MUMBAI p.62 SANTIAGO p. 60 TANGIER p.71 TEL AVIV p.52

UP IN THE AIR

Drift above Cappadocia’s surreal landscape in a hot-air balloon. p. 72

All the comfort you’d expect from business class, at a lower-thanexpected price. When you fly TAP you’ll also get the option to stopover in Portugal on your way to over 70 destinations in Europe and Africa. New service from Orlando starting March 2020.

letter from the editor ®

TOP SPOTS

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

EACH YEAR WE AWARD the best of the best in travel across all of our brands. We start in spring, with Global Traveler’s Leisure Lifestyle Awards and Wines on the Wing airline wine survey. In summer, trazeetravel.com awards The Trazees, with whereverfamily.com’s Wherever Awards in fall. We wrap up each year celebrating the GT Tested Reader Survey awards in December. Last year’s Sweet 16th of them is recapped this month, beginning on page 34. However, whether or not it’s awards season, we, as travelers and journalists, are regularly reminded throughout the year why certain airlines, hotels and travel products stand out, even in the most subtle ways.

One such recent reminder for me came during a tour of Newark, New Jersey’s, AeroFarms, a farming facility combining horticulture, engineering, data science and nutrition.

The indoor vertical gardens grow safe, nutritious, delicious food year-round. Using no pesticides, it’s all locally grown and creates less food waste but 390 times more production than field farming by using special LED lighting and a recycled cloth material to replace soil. Additionally, production uses 95 percent less water.

Following the facility tour, I enjoyed a plating demonstration with Antony McNeil, director of GT GETAWAY: food and beverage, Singapore Airlines. McNeil Kimberly Krol dining in Chicago with Francis Gallagher, John plated the three business-class salads served on Wroblewski, Lou Atsaves and Richard Evans board and featuring greens from AeroFarms.

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER The greens are harvested just hours before flight in a new farm-to-plane partnership. What an amazing initiative and a special touch for premium passengers — all a reminder why Singapore Airlines regularly appears on our survey as Best Airline in the World.

On a recent trip to Chicago during a conversation with United Airlines, yet another award winner, we learned it incorporates special touches for families, like passports for children, footstep patterns on the airport floor leading to family-friendly lines, redesigned wings and more. Again, special touches that keep providers top of mind for frequent travelers. What are some recent reminders you’ve had of why your favorite airlines, hotels and more remain No. 1 in your heart?

It seemed only fitting that when Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO; Richard Evans, senior vice president; and I met John Wroblewski and Lou Atsaves, our distribution specialists, for dinner in Chicago, we selected the aptly named GT Prime Steakhouse. Over delicious wood-fired steaks and lots of laughs, we also managed to capture a selfie, which I selected for this month’s letter.

On the subject of photos, I need to gush over this month’s cover. It’s one of my favorites, and it instantly transported me back to a 2015 trip to Cappadocia. While I didn’t take to the skies in a hot-air balloon, the landscape is otherworldly and stunning from any perspective. Learn more on page 72. We also float around the globe in this issue to Tel Aviv; Columbus, Ohio; Santiago; Mumbai; Lucerne; Bucharest; the Cook Islands; Tangier; and the Florida Keys.

Next month we unveil our fourth Green Issue, printed on recycled paper and highlighting sustainability around the globe. Until then, don’t forget to take a moment during your travels to spot those little reminders!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator MARY MELNICK mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

DEBRA BOKUR J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED JACK GUY, KEVIN RYAN

KRISTY ALPERT ELLEN CLARK BECCA HENSLEY STEVE JERMANOK EUGENIA LAZARIS KARIN LEPERI GREG MCCLUNEY KATHY RODEGHIER BARBARA ROGERS JAN SCHRODER BRANDON SCHULTZ

ete For compl t bios, visi m elerusa.co globaltrav

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

t, the Key Wes t most poin southern ntinental in the co s tates, lie United S miles from just 90 rn Cuba. Lea t The more abou Keys Florida 74. on page

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN CONTACT US

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letter from the publisher ® ®

FRESH INSIGHTS THE MARCH ISSUE includes a recap of our annual awards festivities held at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. We were excited to celebrate our 16th anniversary of the GT Tested Reader Survey awards, this being our ninth year at The Peninsula, where the team, under managing director Offer Nissenbaum, always does a stellar job. Once again, we spent a beautiful night by the pool on the hotel’s rooftop.

A special shout out to the winners who have taken awards for all 16 years, including United Airlines MileagePlus and Chicago O’Hare International Airport, and those who continue to shake up the voting process.

Voting is now underway for the 2020 GT Tested Reader Survey awards; you can either complete the ballot on page 33 of this issue of Global Traveler or the digital ALOHA: version located at globaltravelerusa.com/ Francis heading to Lanai gt-tested-awards-ballot.

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER We were thrilled to welcome Jacob Adoram Hendrickson as our guest of honor, representing Water Mission. Breaking the world record as the first person to row across the Pacific Ocean without stopping or receiving any support, Jacob rowed nearly 8,000 miles as a fundraising effort for Water Mission. Water Mission focuses on building sanitation and hygiene solutions so everyone has access to clean, safe water. Currently, 2.1 billion people globally lack access. To learn more, visit watermission.org.

We just finished a survey of the readership of our magazine and our three digital platforms (globaltravelerusa .com, trazeetravel.com, whereverfamily.com) through MRI-Simmons. The results reveal interesting insights. It turns out we have the most prolific travelers no matter the age segment, and their incomes increased greatly. This translates to individuals who travel frequently around the world for various reasons.

Pending trips on my agenda include bypassing Myrtle Beach this year (the first time in countless years) for Kiawah Island and trips for business in the Northeast. And I have selected a trip for my upcoming birthday this October, which I will announce in my April letter.

Happy traveling!

FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

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ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 | stephanie.makowski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive CHRISTOPHER SAGER tel 267 364 5811 ext 204 | chris.sager@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive MARIANA ZENIZO tel: 52 55 6560 1152 | marzenizo@gmail.com Account Executive ANGELA PAGE tel 917 334 6572 | angela.page@globaltravelerusa.com Production & Advertising Coordinator YASSER OGANDO tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com C

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contents

March 2020 52

PHOTOS: © NIKOLAS BATES, © DNAVEH - DREAMSTIME.COM, © EXPERIENCE COLUMBUS

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FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

34 Sweet Sixteen Global Traveler celebrates the 2019 GT Tested Reader Survey award winners.

52 Destination One: Tel Aviv Tel Aviv’s robust startup culture lures international tourists and businesses.

62 9–5: Mumbai Meet with clients amid the city’s kaleidoscopic sights and sounds.

48 Pride of Portugal TAP Air Portugal expands fleets, routes and passenger experiences.

58 Stateside: Columbus Eat, shop and play in hip and happening Columbus.

64 After 5: Lucerne Lucerne lights up with activity when the day is done.

60 MICE: Santiago The resilient city of Santiago entices MICE planners and travelers.

ON THE COVER

globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

March 2020

BUCHAREST p.66 COLUMBUS p.58 COOK ISLANDS p.68 FLORIDA KEYS p. 74 LUCERNE p.64 MUMBAI p.62 SANTIAGO p. 60 TANGIER p.71 TEL AVIV p.52

UP IN THE AIR

Drift above Cappadocia’s surreal landscape in a hot air balloon. p. 72

COVER PHOTO: HOT-AIR BALLOONS OVER CAPPADOCIA, TURKEY PHOTO: © VLADYSLAV DANILIN - DREAMSTIME.COM

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Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Benefits

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Alaska Airlines Visa Signature Card from Bank of America 2019

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contents

March 2020

PHOTOS: © LUKE POPWELL - DREAMSTIME.COM., © CITY WINERY, © YAKTHAI - DREAMSTIME.COM, © MOTOROLA

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LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

22 Technology 24 Wine & Spirits 25 Wealth 26 Spas 28 Chefs 30 Cruising 78 LGBTQ+ 81 Medical Tourism

10 Mail Call 14 News 16 Reviews 19 One on One W Hollywood 80 Airport Update 82 Preview

66 Neighborhoods: Bucharest Revel in the newfound energy and vibrancy of Romania’s capital.

68 Friends & Family: Cook Islands Natural beauty and adventure beckon in the remote Cook Islands.

71 Tours: Tangier Let a guide lead the way around the mesmerizing Moroccan city.

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MARCH 2020

72 Bucket List: Cappadocia Drift above Cappadocia’s surreal landscape in a hot-air balloon.

74 Kicking Back: Florida Keys Get away from it all in the laid-back Florida Keys.

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2020 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

mail call

Q&A WITH MARY MELNICK, SOCIAL MEDIA AND EDITORIAL COORDINATOR

Flying home (to PHL) from South Carolina years ago, what should have been a four-hour day, tops, turned into a six-hour layover in North Carolina. That trip taught me no price is too high to spend at the newsstand in the airport.

SHELLY WALLIS, via email It seems I have at least one significant weather-related delay every year. I always have downloaded entertainment on my iPad, like books and Netflix shows, just in case. It’s also helpful on the flight since airlines are doing away with headrest monitors.

CHERISE BLANE, via email A delayed flight usually means a trip to a sit-down restaurant in the airport or nearest bar with a good view of a TV. Preferably by an outlet to get work done, but I do always have a portable char-

This month’s edition features a recap of the winners of the GT Tested Reader Survey awards. When choosing your nominees for the awards, what are your top reasons to vote for a specific brand, destination or service as best?

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

ger on me for work emergencies.

MAX GOLDSTEIN, via email

MEASLES ON THE LOOSE In our Dec. 31 issue of eFlyer USA, we covered recent exposure to the measles in various airports due to the influx of holiday travel. One traveler passed through Chicago (ORD) twice in one week, potentially spreading the virus. A few readers wrote in with thoughts:

You can’t ask American citizens to get vaccinated in order to travel. Being healthy enough to fly, sure, but actually requiring proof of vaccination would be a completely arbitrary request.

GENE REED, via email I get my flu shot and necessary

vaccines not only for myself but to protect others. It would be nice for fellow travelers to do the same.

SIMONE BRANSON, via email

GENTING CRUISE LINES In our Jan. 15 issue of eFlyer Asia, we reported on Genting Cruise Lines’ largest ship, Global Dream, set to arrive in Asia in 2021. The first-ever global-class vessel will accommodate more than 9,000 passengers and offer the world’s first roller coaster at sea. This news sparked an opinion from an avid reader: Besides the hassle of getting a visa to India, I can’t believe the service would be up to that of Cunard, Regent, Seabourn or Princess, among others.

Genting Cruise Lines is defi-

nitely geared to the Asian cruise market. The atmosphere aboard these ships is not conducive to Western world travelers. I wish them well, but as an international travel consultant I would find it difficult to encourage use of this line.

MICHAEL J GREEN, via email

PHILADELPHIA PLANS FOR BIG 2020 In our Jan. 22 issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on Philadelphia International Airport’s anticipated record year and plans for the future.

The international airline is making changes in 2020, focusing on guest experiences including dining, shopping and suites. A few readers wrote in with thoughts: I travel frequently through Philadelphia (PHL) and have seen

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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PHOTO: © CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK

Q&A WITH STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

In our January issue, social media and editorial coordinator Mary Melnick discussed weather-related issues while traveling in winter.

Inevitable cancellations and even a personal experience of a five-hour flight delay inspired the question: How do you pass the time during a flight delay? A few readers wrote in with suggestions:

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May 2011

Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINESS TRAVELERS

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

GT App Read GT on your iPhone and iPad. The GT app makes it easy to peruse the current issue, search the archives, bookmark favorites and more.

Highlight one special offer or promotion via delivery to GT e-subscribers.

Publisher’s Picks

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE

TEL AVIV

GT ’s publisher, Francis X. Gallagher, delivers his current travel favorites in this monthly e-newsletter.

CARTAGENA p.64 CHRISTCHURCH p.70 DUBLIN p. 50 HONG KONG p.60 LOS CABOS p.74 NASHVILLE p. 56 NORWAY p.72 PARIS p. 58 TAIPEI p.66 ZANZIBAR p.62

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

THEICELAND WOMEN’S ISSUE ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE Rise of the Female Solo Traveler p. 38

2011 | Global Traveler | 35

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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the positive improvement firsthand over the years. The dining has definitely come a long way, and I’ve been seeing a lot of new stores I recognize planning to open.

the size and number of service animals, requiring passengers with service animals to check in earlier and requiring stricter documentation and training.

Some readers wrote in with thoughts:

THOMAS ARDEN, via email

It’s about time they looked into this and tightened restrictions. I sat one row ahead of a duck on my last flight.

JENNA SCHWARTZ, via email Philadelphia International Airport is hit or miss for me, so I’m glad to hear it is working on improvements. Some terminals are much better than others.

RON SMITH, via email

SERVICE ANIMAL RESTRICTIONS CHANGE In our Jan. 28 issue of eFlyer USA, we discussed the U.S Department of Transportation rules changing the definition of a service animal. Specific rules include allowing airlines to limit

12

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MARCH 2020

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

www.globaltravelerusa.com

ALEX TABOR, via email I don’t know what anyone did with their animals before airlines became so lenient on flight restrictions.

They could definitely be a bit more thoughtful when allowing just any animal on a flight with flimsy documentation.

BETH HARRIS, via email I travel frequently with my service animal with all the appropriate documentation, and I think these rules are a little restricting. Travel is stressful enough, let alone requiring the assistance of a service animal. People should stop taking advantage of the system and consider those travelers actually in need.

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ALLISON GRANT, via email

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS?

As a weekly traveler for business I firmly support the rule amendments. In my opinion the craze of bringing Fluffy along was started by reality shows which will remain nameless.

A service animal undergoes quite a bit of training to assist the traveler in need. They are a wonderful asset for that individual. If you cannot fly without your emotional support “whatever,” please stay home.

BRENDAN FOGARTY, via email

Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from the Port houses of Portugal to a father/daughter trip to Japan.

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Availa at the

PHOTO: © ANTHONY ANEESE TOTAH JR - DREAMSTIME.COM

I was pretty excited when I saw Bud & Marilyn’s opened in PHL on my last trip in November. It was way too early for breakfast, but being a Philly native, I know the biscuits are worth it, so I went anyway to try them. So good.

ABU DHABI

Chicago’s airports offer more than 275 nonstop destinations worldwide.

CONNECTING THE WORLD TO CHICAGO AND CHICAGO TO THE WORLD

VISIT www.flychicago.com

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

@flyohare @flymidway

/fly2ohare /fly2midway

/flychicago

DUBAI

ADDIS ABABA

HELSINKI

STOCKHOLM

KRAKOW

COPENHAGEN

(STARTS 3/2020)

TEL AVIV

ZÜRICH

AMSTERDAM

BARCELONA

LISBON

ST. MAARTEN ST. LUCIA SAO PAULO

PUNTA CANA

ARUBA

PROVIDENCIALES

NASSAU MONTEGO BAY

GRAND CAYMAN PANAMA CITY

GUATEMALA CITY

MEXICO CITY QUERETARO BELIZE CITY COZUMEL LIBERIA CANCUN SAN JOSE HUATULCO

GUADALAJARA ZACATECAS MORELIA LEÓN IXTAPA MONTERREY AGUASCALIENTES

DURANGO

PUERTO VALLARTA

LOS CABOS

AUCKLAND

(STARTS 4/2020)

BRISBANE

SEOUL

SHANGHAI

HONG KONG

EDINBURGH

BRUSSELS

DELHI

ISTANBUL AMMAN DOHA ABU DHABI

WARSAW

FRANKFURT VENICE MUNICH ROME PRAGUE (STARTS 5/2020) ATHENS VIENNA BUDAPEST

PARIS

LONDON (HEATHROW AND GATWICK)

DUBLIN MADRID

REYKJAVIK

HALIFAX

QUEBEC CITY

OTTAWA TORONTO (CITY) MONTREAL

TORONTO (PEARSON)

CALGARY WINNIPEG

VANCOUVER

TOKYO (NARITA AND HANEDA)

TAIPEI

BEIJING

CHENGDU

news, deals and rewards Airlines Plan to Avoid Gate-Checking Bags

Gone are the days of free checked bags unless you’re an airline premium rewards member with hundreds of thousands of miles to spare. Once airlines started charging travelers to check bags, more people started carrying on, resulting in limited space in overhead bins and the necessity for gate-checking those bags that won’t fit into the storage space. Now, faced with a problem they imposed upon themselves, airlines have begun to implement plans to address this growing conundrum.

Airlines like American Airlines are retrofitting some aircraft to include larger overhead bins, while United Airlines configured its Bombardier CRJ-550 aircraft with enough space for one carry-on bag per passenger and plans to equip 80 percent of its other aircraft with new, larger bins by 2023.

With more space for carry-on bags, there is hope no matter what group you board with or how far back you are in the boarding line, you will find a place for your bag. aa.com united.com

Credit Cards Discount In-Flight Purchases

You’re already scoring major points when you book a flight with one of your airline credit cards, but did you know some cards come with other perks you can enjoy once you board the plane?

Carriers of the American Airlines AAdvantage Aviator Silver Mastercard can receive $25 back (per day) for in-flight food and drinks, as well as $50 toward in-flight WiFi service, while AAdvantage Aviator Red World Elite members can receive a 25 percent discount on in-flight food and drinks and $25 back on their statement for WiFi service.

Delta Air Lines’ American Express credit cards offer 25 percent off (via a statement credit) all in-flight food and drink purchases, while JetBlue credit card holders can benefit from a 50 percent discount on food and drinks on board.

Finally, the United Explorer Card from Chase, the United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase and the United TravelBank Card offer 25 percent discounts (via statement credits) for food, drink and WiFi purchases on United flights.

delta.com united.com

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eFlyer USA

eFlyer Asia

GT ’s independently run weekly travel email newsletter written for executive business travelers.

GT ’s independently run weekly travel email newsletter written for the Asian travel market.

globaltravelerusa.com

MARCH 2020

The passport renewal process can be a time-consuming headache, especially when your next trip is right around the corner and the bureaucratic nightmare of documents and snail mail stands in your way. But Mobile Passport — the mobile app that allows you to breeze through customs upon returning to the United States — now offers a new feature that lets travelers renew their passports in as little as 24 hours.

Thanks to a partnership with RushMyPassport, a passport expediting service, travelers who sign up with Mobile Passport will receive a notification of the impending expiration date six months prior and then can start the passport renewal process via the app.

For procrastinators, however, an extra expedited service lets you renew in 24 hours but comes with a price tag of $170, depending on the urgency of the turnaround time.

The process still requires a postal submission of the application and a new photo but removes the need to visit a renewal office in person. mobilepassport.us rushmypassport.com

PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © GREGORY21- DREAMSTIME.COM

Renew Your Passport in 24 Hours

aa.com

Redeem Christmas Gift Cards for United Miles

New Smart Economy Seats for Better Sleep

Falling asleep in an airplane economy seat takes a bit of strategy and a lot of patience — and flexibility goes a long way — but U.K.-based travel company Universal Movement developed a new seat style that, if adopted by airlines, would improve the sleeping experience no matter how much (or how little) you pay for your seat.

The backs of Universal Movement’s Interspace seats can unfold into wings passengers can lean their heads on for support. They also serve as privacy screens if you find yourself next to an annoying neighbor.

With the sleeping/privacy wings already in place, Universal Movement continues to come up with other ideas for their Interspace seats, such as sensors that detect when the passenger has fallen asleep and pause and power down the entertainment screen so seat occupants can pick right up where they left off when they wake up.

PHOTOS: © UNIVERSAL MOVEMENT, © ROBERTDS - DREAMSTIME.COM

universalmovement.io

WalletHub’s Best Hotel Rewards Programs

Last December WalletHub released its annual Hotel Rewards Report, revealing the nation’s top hotel rewards programs based on a review of the nation’s nine largest hotel chains. The personal finance website analyzed programs using 21 key metrics including point values, expiration policies and perks included with membership.

According to the report, the top five hotel rewards programs are Wyndham Rewards, Radisson Rewards, Best Western Rewards, Choice Privileges and Marriott Bonvoy.

The omission of larger hotel brands at the top of the list may seem puzzling, but WalletHub surmises the smaller chains often offer more incentives in order to compete with the larger players in the hotel industry.

WalletHub’s report also features a calculator that lets travelers enter their individual spending habits and view the top hotel rewards programs catered to their budget and preferences.

If you’re still stuck with unwanted gift cards from the Christmas season, there’s a way to redeem them without having to dine at a restaurant you don’t like or shop somewhere that doesn’t have a store in your region.

United’s MileagePlus Gift Card exchange program will buy gift cards you don’t plan to use and, in exchange, offer award miles you can use toward your next flight purchase.

To redeem your gift cards for miles as a new MileagePlus member, create a United MileagePlus account, complete an online form with your contact information and wait for approval. Once your account is active for a minimum of 90 days, log on to your account and search for the retailer of the gift card you want to exchange, enter the value of the gift card and see the number of miles you can earn if you choose to cash it in.

Existing MileagePlus members can log in to their accounts and view their exchange options right away. united.com

Airline Credit Cards with Companion Passes

One of the airline credit card perks travelers may not be aware of is the ability to bring a friend or loved one along for a trip at no extra cost. While these companion passes are technically free, they usually require a minimum membership period, an annual fee or a minimum amount of acquired miles before they can be redeemed.

For example, Alaska Airlines Visa Signature cardmembers can bring a companion on a flight with them after their one-year anniversary. The card requires an introductory fee of $121 to use the companion pass, with an annual fee of $75 for every year after.

Other airline credit cards offering such passes with varying terms and conditions are the Hawaiian Airlines Bank of Hawaii World Elite Mastercard, the AAdvantage Aviator Red and Silver World Elite Mastercards, the CitiBusiness / AAdvantage Platinum Select World Elite Mastercard, the Delta Reserve Credit Card and the Platinum Delta Card.

While none of Southwest Airlines’ credit cards include this offer, all Southwest travelers are eligible for a free Companion Pass after racking up 100 qualifying one-way flights or 125,000 qualifying points per calendar year.

wallethub.com

MARCH 2020

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GT tested

FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

Arrival/Check-In: After an enjoyable couple of days in Oahu, we looked forward to our short flight to Lanai from Honolulu. Representatives of the hotel met us at Lanai’s small airport, collected our baggage and drove us, with other guests, to the resort. A former pineapple plantation, Lanai is a less-traveled island; in fact, I found no residents in Honolulu who had been to Lanai. Upon arrival we were greeted with juice and leis and checked in by Xavier, who quickly escorted us to our room, No. 7552. Instead of keys, guests receive wrist bands that can get wet and still remain active; they open your suite door.

Larry Ellison, founder of Oracle, purchased nearly 98 percent of the island in 2012 for $300 million. As one of his first projects, he invested $75 million in Manele Bay Hotel and turned it into the Four Seasons Resort Lanai.

Services/Amenities: Service, dining and activities were tops, and we did our best to hit all the highlights. Recent upgrades included the restaurants; we really enjoyed Nobu Lanai. Our upbeat and friendly server, Grace, displayed charm and humor while coming up with custom sushi and Japanese scotch to complement my birthday dinner. We had our first meal at Malibu Farm, one of the first restaurants Ellison brought in when he took over.

Perched above Hulopo’e Bay with ocean views, the outside venue offers fresh, farm-to-table cuisine near the pool. One Forty, the main dining facility, takes its name from the island’s 140-squaremile area. The restaurant, which also serves breakfast, features

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Enjoy a fantastic golf experience — never overcrowded. ◆ Lovely beach with attendant offers great surf action; the waves can be huge.

American steaks and a Hawai’ian seafood dinner menu with an emphasis on local ingredients. Be sure to try the Lanai venison.

(There are more deer than people on Lanai — watch out for the deer when traveling in the evening.) The Lobby Bar with its outside lanai offers sunset entertainment of traditional Hawai’ian songs and chanting, worth listening to before dinner.

Of course, the golf is spectacular; I played a round on my birthday (read my review in the December 2019 issue). Last but not least, we took a tour of the island in a Jeep 4x4, completing the circumference and stopping at several key beaches and in Lanai City. The last stop, Lanai Cat Sanctuary, proved surprisingly interesting. This playground for cats keeps them under control and away from nesting birds. Most of Lanai’s birds are ground nesters, and the cats were decimating the population. The sanctuary feeds the cats well and ensures they receive medical care, all within enclosed boundaries.

◆ Be sure you make it to the Lanai City Bar & Grille, usually half full of hotel guests and locals. The hotel offers shuttles.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI 1 Manele Bay Road Lanai City, HI 96763 tel 808 565 2000 fourseasons.com

PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI

Guest Quarters: Getting to the room was a bit of a walk, which was fine as it took us past the bird cages whenever we went to dinner or the beach. I enjoyed listening to them copy my whistling … or was I copying them? In our suite, a hallway from the front door took a left turn to the massive bathroom and straight to the main bedroom just before a fully stocked minibar. The marbletiled bathroom featured double sinks and a large tub plus an equally massive shower with a rain showerhead and an individual sprayer attachment. The Aloha ʻĀina bath amenities featured kukui nut oil from Alberta’s Farm. The bedroom held a Four Seasons-branded king-sized bed and a built-in mini desk where I set up my laptop and worked between activities. At the end of the room, floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors opened to a lanai overlooking the gardens and the ocean below. On the opposing wall, a built-in closet offered lots of room and a safe plus a handy beach bag to take to the beach and pool. At the foot of the bed a sofa proved a convenient place to lay out clothing. Opposite the bed a large, flat-screen TV hung from the wall, but you won’t want to spend much time in the room with all the great activities at the resort.

GT tested

FAIRMONT MIRAMAR HOTEL & BUNGALOWS Reviewed by Erich Martin

PHOTOS: © FAIRMONT MIRAMAR HOTEL & BUNGALOWS

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Arrival/Check-In: My 5:57 a.m. departure from Philadelphia with a stop in Atlanta landed me at LAX about 11:30 a.m. I caught a shuttle to the LAX-It lot, where travelers can grab rideshares and taxis, and headed toward my final destination.

I could see Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows from Ocean Avenue as my Uber approached the property.

We turned into the long driveway through well-manicured landscaping. Seconds after the car stopped at the entrance, attendants pulled the car door open and grabbed my luggage from the trunk. I told them I didn’t need help and took my luggage inside. I did not expect my room to be ready, as it was barely after noon.

I headed through the clean and spacious lobby to a long, well-staffed check-in counter. I noticed a little bar and lounge at the other side of the room, next to the staircase. The hotel staff checked me in, and my room was ready. Even better, they upgraded me from an ocean-view room in the hotel proper to a full-on bungalow.

Guest Quarters: An attendant showed me to my bungalow.

The bungalows all sit in a courtyard behind the lobby, in the middle of the hotel proper. This area houses the outdoor pool, an outdoor dining venue and a few other scenic spots where it

would be nice to sit and spend some time with a good book.

Entering my bungalow, I was happy to see all the usual amenities. A well-equipped wet bar held every kind of spirit I could wish to drink, including water and two bottles of wine.

The counter space under the TV housed a bottle of wine, a fruit plate and wine glasses. The bedside table held a tablet for ordering room service plus a pile of complimentary books.

The bungalow was a little bigger than a standard hotel room; however, the bathroom was larger, with two sinks, and a sliding glass door led to a small patio area with seating, another incredible spot to sit and read.

Services/Amenities: Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows boasts everything you would expect at a luxury hotel in the heart of Santa Monica. The property is home to an expansive spa and full fitness center. In addition, it offers a barbershop and a few places to shop. I didn’t get a chance to explore these, but I liked what I did see.

For dining, the property offers four options plus in-room dining. During our stay, my colleague Angelique and I had lunch at FIG Restaurant. I ended up getting a delicious chicken sandwich while Angelique enjoyed a salad. In the morning, I had breakfast and coffee at the on-property Dogtown Coffee. The breakfast burrito was excellent.

◆ The fitness center’s fully versatile space offers any kind of workout, including five Peloton bikes. There are also outdoor workout spaces, which I had not seen before at a hotel. ◆ The location in the heart of Santa Monica, a short walk from the famous Santa Monica Pier, makes it convenient to get out and stroll the neighborhood. ◆ On-site services can get you ready for a night on the town. Get a haircut at Lloyd’s Barbershop, hit the Exhale spa to relax or pick up some jewelry at Atelier by Edward Avedis. You can easily spend time on site without being bored.

FAIRMONT MIRAMAR HOTEL & BUNGALOWS 101 Wilshire Blvd.

Santa Monica, CA 90401 tel 310 576 7777 fairmont.com

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GT tested

AC HOTEL LOS ANGELES SOUTH BAY Reviewed by Richard T. Evans

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at the hotel in what felt like a few minutes after landing at LAX, no surprise since it is only three miles from the airport. I especially liked the proximity to the airport a few days later when catching an early flight home. The friendly staff at the front desk were fast and efficient in getting me checked in and on the way to my room. The hotel has a sleek, minimalist décor with muted colors accented with floral arrangements that I found soothing, especially after a long transcontinental trip.

Services/Amenities: The lobby has an open, free-form design that encompasses the bar/lounge and the breakfast area, where lots of windows provide plenty of natural light.

The hotel restaurant, Flora, is located on the roof and

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◆ My stay was made pleasant because of the hotel staff’s friendly and accommodating attitude toward guests. A great staff is the first thing you remember about a hotel stay. ◆ The hotel prides itself on being pet-friendly. Although I have not had a dog in some time, I am always pleased hotels allow the family pet.

includes an interior bar and an outdoor patio area with views of El Segundo and LAX. I was told the sunset views from the roof can be spectacular, and seeing the lights of the planes coming into the airport at night proves quite an experience. One of the things I liked about the patio area: The vegetables they use are grown behind it, so diners can see where the vegetable dishes come from.

Talk about eating locally!

The hotel has a 24-hour fitness center as well as a business center.

With four meeting rooms and its location so close to LAX, the hotel makes an ideal venue for business meetings.

◆ Many Los Angeles-area aerospace firms have major facilities nearby, so the hotel is likely a convenient place to stay when making a business call on these firms.

AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay 2130 E. Maple Ave. El Segundo, CA 90245 tel 310 322 3333 marriott.com

PHOTOS: © AC HOTEL LOS ANGELES SOUTH BAY

Guest Quarters: My room was on the ground floor, which I was not too keen about at first. However, I soon realized one benefit is no time wasted waiting for elevators.

My room included one king-sized bed and a double sofa bed; an easy chair; a desk with desktop-level outlets for recharging one’s computer, iPad and phone; and a 55-inch, flat-screen TV. There was also a mini refrigerator, a safe, an iron/ironing board, a coffee/tea maker and free bottled water. And I always appreciate complimentary high-speed internet service.

The bathroom had a sink and a shower. The sleek, minimalist décor carried over here, as well.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

one on one

MARK EBERWEIN General Manager, W Hollywood

What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? Teaching baseball. I have two boys who play, and nothing makes me happier than being outside on a warm spring day, fresh-cut grass, screaming, “Turn two!”

What is your favorite book, movie or television show? The Office — sometimes I have to pause the episode because I’m laughing so hard.

What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? Jimmy Carter. I believe he always attempted to do what he trusted America stood for.

PHOTO: © W HOLLYWOOD

THE BUSINESS What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? We’re working on how to help the youth homeless population.

Some people choose to live on the street, but these kids were thrown there. There is too much wealth in the United States to have homeless youth exist.

What is your favorite aspect of the job? The relationships: getting to know your team and guests on a personal level. Sharing stories and a part of your life is how I fell in love with this business.

What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? Changing the name of a hotel. The locator city was only known locally and travelers, especially international, didn’t know where we were. The renaming focused on a well-known area close by and resulted in an increase in business, especially in the summer.

Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry?

Stan Kaminski (senior vice president, Azul Hospitality) inspired me to be better at all aspects of my job. His intensity and respect showed me what I could be; I’ll never forget that.

THE BASICS Name: Mark Eberwein Title: General manager Company, city: W Hollywood; Hollywood, California First job: Dishwasher at a greasy spoon called Aunt Emma’s. It was the only place that would hire a 15-year-old.

Where to next: Mount Rushmore; we’re exploring everything America has to offer.

A LITTLE BIT MORE What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? Gerard Butler (my apologies to Bradley Cooper). Our team places a picture of your Hollywood doppelganger on your door to celebrate Hollywood.

AS A TRAVELER Tell us about a travel nightmare: I was once stuck on a Philippine Airlines plane in the middle of summer in Manila for more than six hours.

They wouldn’t let us leave, and the air-conditioning wasn’t working. After all that time they couldn’t fix the issue, so we had to board a new plane the next day.

Share a comical travel experience: While in Jamaica we were picked up by what we thought was a taxi. The driver was so high we never broke 10 mph all the way to our hotel. At the hotel, we were instructed on what real taxis looked like on the island.

What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? As long as it is absent of traffic, I love long car rides. Every place has a story, and it’s amazing on the open road. On a drive to Yellowstone, a buffalo walked alongside us!

What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? At the Gaylord Texan, my room was at the far end of the hall. I passed at least six housekeepers on my way to my meeting. Every one of them stopped and said, “Good morning,” and wished me a great day. Do you know how it feels to be acknowledged that many times in five minutes?

MARCH 2020

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Five Years and Counting Learn why Seoul has enjoyed top billing as Best MICE City for five years running in Global Traveler’s GT Tested Reader Survey awards.

King Studio

Korea Furniture Museum

MAINTAINING EXCELLENCE IS A lofty proposition, but it’s one the city of Seoul has managed perfectly for the past five years, consistently winning Best MICE City in Global Traveler’s GT Tested Reader Survey awards in 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. Seoul is tops in the meeting, incentive, conventions and exhibitions business for a myriad of reasons, and here are just a few.

Floating Island Convention

Floating Island UNIQUE VENUES Ranging from historic and artistic to modern and trendy, Seoul’s venues always stand out. KOREA HOUSE, home to the Korean Cultural Heritage Foundation, was built in 1957 as a reception hall for foreign dignitaries. Following renovations throughout the years, it today serves as a multiplex for Korean culture, with royal court cuisine, traditional

performances and other cultural programming — and as a potential spot for a MICE event with a touch of history.

Two other venues to consider for a historic and arts-focused celebration, the Korea Furniture Museum showcases traditional Korean wooden furniture from the Joseon Dynasty, including 10 distinct Hanok houses. The displays and exhibitions at Seoul Museum, situated at the base of the Inwangsan Mountains, offer a deeper look into the everyday life of the city and its people, which serves as the perfect backdrop for an immersive MICE event.

For events with a view, consider King’s Vacation, a luxury lounge and bar in Sky Kingdom and a modern reinterpretation of European royal palaces.

Enjoy gourmet drinks and dishes, an indoor swimming pool, DJs, nightlife and more. Or opt for the spot where trends begin: Dongdaemun Design Palace, opened in 2014 as a multicultural space for exhibits, fashion shows, product launches, forums and, possibly, your next event.

Rising as a landmark of Seoul, Floating Island Convention is an artificial island on the Hangang River. As the cornerstone of the Han River Renaissance project, it offers Vista Pub and an iconic and unique option for any event.

Learn more at miceseoul.com/venuesearch.

AUTHENTIC ACTIVITIES When it comes to team-building, Seoul has you covered with a wide variety of authentic team-building activities.

Immerse your team in one of the biggest phenomena of Korean culture: K-pop. The K-Pop Dance experience teaches groups actual K-pop dance routines with K-pop back-up dancers as instructors. It’s 90 minutes of fun for any team.

For another hands-on experience, take a Korean Food Cooking Class, where participants try their hand at making traditional dishes like bulgogi, japchae, bibimbap and more.

A range of cooking activities are available.

There’s so much to choose from as well, including archery, baking bread on the Han River, makeup classes, Taekwondo instruction and escape rooms.

RKD Entertainment Learn more at miceseoul.com/teambuilding.

CUSTOMIZED EXPERIENCES The support program PLUS Seoul aids MICE participants and event planners from around the globe. PLUS Seoul programs for incentive groups and corporate meetings include company logo cookies, bus wrapping and other unique touches that help in fostering a closeness among your group. Convenience comes in the form of premium QR codes, application development for conferences, video recording and more.

Learn more at miceseoul.com/plusseoul.

V QUIN TATUS TS Best MICE City

Best MICE City

Seoul

Seoul

Fifth Consecutive Year

Fifth Consecutive Year

2019

2019

technology

PORTABILITY PLUS Take your productivity to the next level while on the road. BY JACK GUY

SONOS MOVE U.S. audio brand Sonos made its name with Bluetooth speaker systems for the home, and now it offers its first portable speaker. Weatherproof and hard-wearing, it’s perfect for outdoor adventures, whatever the conditions. The 10 hours of battery life and a well-designed accompanying app make for great functionality. The only downside: The Move tips the scales at a hefty 6.6 pounds. $399. sonos.com CALDIGIT TUFF NANO Portable hard drives have become smaller and smaller in recent years, and the Tuff Nano combines its small size with durable build quality. Half the size of an iPhone, it’s fully IP67 rated, so you can fully submerge it in water without damaging it. The Tuff Nano proves perfect for storing or backing up data on longer trips, and there are plans for a 1GB version in addition to the 512GB model currently available. $149.95 for 512GB. caldigit.com

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DJI RONIN-SC GIMBAL Take your video recording to the next level with this stabilizing gimbal from DJI. Bringing pro-level technology to the hobbyist market, the Ronin-SC is made for mirrorless cameras. Use the accompanying smartphone app to control the gimbal remotely and even track a subject of your choosing.

Weighing in at just 2.4 pounds, the device is perfect for long days of shooting and will dramatically increase the production values of your videos. $399. dji.com

PHOTOS: © SONOS, © MOTOROLA, © CALDIGIT, © DJI

MOTOROLA RAZR The early 2000s icon returns, and this time it’s smart. Motorola has been up front about the fact the redesigned Razr is a “design-first” phone aimed at those who look beyond the most popular smartphones, and the focus is evident. The slick flip handset features a touchscreen that extends over both internal faces of the phone, but beyond that the specs are fairly run-of-the-mill, with 6GB of RAM, a 16MP back camera and a 5MP front camera. $1,500. motorola.com

wine & spirits

PERFECT BLEND City Winery reaps success with a mix of winemaking, dining and entertainment. BY EUNICE FRIED CITY WINERY IS JUST WHAT its name suggests: a winery in the center of a city. Its new winery/concert space/restaurant opens its doors this month at Hudson River Pier 57 in Manhattan. The base of every City Winery, a winery is simply one aspect of its pleasures.

Like the original City Winery introduced by Michael Dorf in New York City in 2008, the new iteration shares its working winery space with an array of music shows and dining experiences.

With the success of New York’s City Winery, other City Winery outlets opened around the country. The company now makes wine in Philadelphia; Boston; Chicago; Atlanta; Washington, D.C.; Nashville; and Montgomery, New York.

Overseeing City Winery’s winemaking since its beginning, French-born and -educated David Lecomte earned his winemaking degrees in Burgundy and Montpelier.

As Chief Winemaker, David hires and trains the winemakers at all City Winery facilities and buys grapes for all from a number of sources, among them Napa Valley; Oregon’s Willamette Valley; Finger Lakes, New York; Washington state; and other U.S. vineyards, as well as about 20 tons from Mendoza, Argentina.

City Winery offers food and wine classes, and perhaps most intriguing and tempting, people can sign up to make wine with David and take part in every aspect of the winemaking process. Anyone, in fact, can have an oak barrel of wine with his or her name on it. Currently, David guides about 100 amateur oenologists in making their own wine at City Winery. Each works with one barrel, which holds enough wine to fill about 250 bottles.

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Picture the scene: You invite some people to dinner at City Winery’s restaurant. Before that evening, you go to the winery’s cellar, where wines age in oak barrels. From the barrel with your name on it, you withdraw some wine.

A few evenings later, you present the finished product to your dinner guests and watch their reactions. Surely, no bottle of wine — no matter how special or famous or old or expensive — will have quite the same impact. And with David Lecomte as your guide, it will no doubt prove an extraordinary experience.

FOOD AND WINE:

Artist’s rendering of City Winery’s new location at Hudson River Pier 57 in Manhattan (top), and a barrel tasting (bottom) PHOTOS: © CITY WINERY, © VICTORIA SAINT MARTIN

wealth

FOREIGN-DERIVED INTANGIBLE INCOME

PHOTO: © CYBRAIN - DREAMSTIME.COM

Consider new tax incentives for global manufacturers and distributors. BY KEVIN RYAN, CPA

IF YOUR U.S.-BASED BUSINESS SELLS PRODUCTS to the foreign marketplace or provides services to foreign customers, you may be entitled to significant tax benefits.

One new tax opportunity ushered in by the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act is the foreign-derived intangible income deduction, referred to as FDII. This new tax deduction (37.5 percent), effective for tax years beginning after Dec. 31, 2017, can reduce the U.S. corporate tax rate to a rate of 13.125 percent for certain qualified businesses. FDII aims to provide an incentive to domestic corporations to provide goods and services to foreign markets.

However, consistent with many other elements of preferential tax relief under the new law, it only applies to domestic C corporations.

Don’t let the word “intangible” cause confusion. The deduction applies to all non-excluded foreign-derived gross income in excess of a routine return. Excluded foreign income includes Subpart F income, global intangible low-taxed income, financial services income and foreign branch income. The routine return equals 10 percent of the adjusted tax basis of a C corporation’s

depreciable tangible assets used in its trade or business.

FDII is equal to the foreign source portion of its intangible income. It includes sales or other dispositions of property to a foreign person for foreign use, a license of intellectual property to a foreign person for foreign use, and services provided to a person located outside of the United States.

Corporations must maintain documentation to support the sale or service destination for foreign use. Property sold or services provided to a related party are not considered unless the related party then sells the product or provides the service to an unrelated foreign third party.

Calculating the FDII deduction involves a complex analysis, first determining qualified business asset investment, deduction-eligible income and foreignderived deduction-eligible income before calculating deemed intangible income and FDII, then multiplied by 37.5 percent to arrive at the deductible amount.

Foreign tax credits are also allowed against FDII, but only the taxable portion of FDII (62.5 percent) is taken into account to determine the foreign tax credit limitation. The FDII deduction is limited to taxable income of the C corporation.

The FDII tax deduction can provide significant tax savings for U.S. companies. When first introduced, there was some concern the World Trade Organization might view it as an illegal export subsidy. However, it is current tax law and companies should take advantage of it. U.S. corporations must also consider the state tax implications associated with FDII. In addition, many are now considering housing intellectual property in the United States, as the low rate of tax competes with patent box regimes offered by other countries. Further, companies should analyze whether it is worthwhile to transfer existing foreign business into newly formed C corporations to reap the FDII tax benefits.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

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spas

WELLNESS IN THE WOODLANDS Seek spiritual and physical healing at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort. BY KRISTY ALPERT

NATURE’S NURTURE:

Spa exterior

PHOTO: © NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT

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I INHALED THE DELICATE SCENT of the sage wafting through the air as I lay motionless on the table, the soft sound of my therapist’s feet grazing the ground as she navigated her way around the dark room, waving a smoldering stack of herbs in rhythm to a soundtrack of ritualistic music. All at once the sounds ceased and the room stilled, signaling the real healing would soon begin.

It had been exactly two months and 21 days since I last had a good night’s sleep when I walked into the Woodlands Spa at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort in Farmington, Pennsylvania. I know that because that was the exact age of my son on that day, whose arrival brought great joy and many sleepless nights into my life. I booked the hourand-45-minute Dream Catcher massage at the spa in hopes of finding relaxation and possibly even restoration for the often dreamless sleep patterns I was quickly developing.

I found so much more.

Like many of the treatments at Woodlands Spa, the Dream

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Catcher Massage acts as an homage to the resort’s Native American roots, promoting well-being and relaxation for guests with a wide range of targeted treatments. Dream catchers were a common talisman used by Native Americans to protect them from bad dreams and evil spirits; only good dreams and positive energy would pass through to the sleeper below. The concept of positive energy work inspired the spa treatment which begins with the burning of white sage to purify the mind and body and ends with a “casting of the nets” to symbolize rebirth. It also incorporates relaxing lomi lomi massage techniques to enhance the treatment and truly bring about a spiritual and physical healing in guests.

The spa first opened in 1988 but has since undergone countless upgrades and remodels to bring it to its current 32,000 square feet with 40 treatment rooms where guests can select from a menu of approximately 60 treatment options. The price of all spa treatments includes the use of an indoor heated lap pool, whirlpool, sauna areas,

locker rooms, steam rooms and a fitness center, transforming even a simple 25-minute facial into cause for at least a half day at the spa. Along with a range of facials, massages and body treatments, the spa offers hydrotherapy rituals like the Rosemary-Mint Immersion that combines a relaxing massage with a hydrating soak experience.

Even though the spa hosts more than 43,000 treatments each year, most spa guests remain surprised by the exclusive feel and private atmosphere they experience while in the spa, where quiet areas are sacred and even the hair and nail salons have a calming ambience about them. The spa is open to guests 14 years of age and older. However, younger guests aren’t left out of the pampering and are welcomed at The Grove, a kids’ spa offering age-appropriate services like teen massages and manicures and pedicures for children ages 5–13.

One of the newest additions to Nemacolin Woodlands Resort’s wellness offerings is the Holistic Healing Center, located adjacent to the resort’s Falling Rock accommodations. The center integrates Eastern and Western techniques for achieving life balance and wellness. Therapists, educators and medical practitioners work together at the Holistic Healing Center to offer whole-body solutions that go deeper than simply treating the physical symptoms guests are experiencing. The center operates, as do many European wellness resorts, with many guests staying for weeks to undergo treatments ranging from twice-weekly acupuncture sessions and metabolic counseling with meal-planning sessions to infrared therapies and sensory deprivation sessions. The center aims to help heal guests mentally and physically, and four treatment rooms provide the space for more than 33 different treatments, including a private meditation room, a private consultation space and an outdoor Zen garden.

The goal at both the Holistic Healing Center and Woodlands Spa is transformation; treatments aren’t placed on the menu for popularity’s sake but rather because each has been chosen — and often created by an expert on staff — to offer a true service for guests, from relaxing massages to sleep-promoting therapies like the one I chose.

I didn’t drift off to sleep once during the entire hour and 45 minutes I was on the table during the Dream Catcher, but as the rhythmic hum of the singing bowl reverberated through the room, my mind seemed to wake up for the first time in months.

I woke with a clarity of who I was — not just a mom, not just a wife — and felt a renewed passion for pursuing the healthy habits that once filled my days before becoming a mom. I may not have gotten back the two months and 21 days of missed sleep, but I returned to my family renewed, refreshed and rested enough to help inspire my little boy’s very own dreams.

s guests to menu for it e in w d an illed local a lunch Spa offers rites like ch s vo nd fa la g d in oo ud The W tments, incl wrap. or after trea asted turkey ro a or h le enjoy before h tabbou getables wit seasonal ve

SPECIAL OPTIONS:

Salon (above), and pool (left) PHOTOS: © NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT

Woodlands Spa Nemacolin Woodlands Resort 1001 Lafayette Drive Farmington, PA 15437 tel 866 344 6957 nemacolin.com

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chefs

CAPE TOWN KUDOS Executive Chef Christo Pretorius makes his mark at The Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa. BY KIMBERLY KROL WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN? One of the first really cool items we learned to make at chef school was marshmallows. I was so intrigued by the way you can whip up egg whites and create something so magical. Early on in my career, my menu was filled with weird and wonderful flavored marshmallows. Looking back, I definitely overdid them.

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WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? Guilty pleasure is a tin of condensed milk (I’m not entirely sure what the U.S. equivalent is); for some reason, I cannot resist it. My mother used to make me eat gem squash as a child, like all moms do, stuffed with corn and gratinated with cheese. I cannot cook with it at all now.

WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? That depends who my guests are! My wife, something Asian; my friends, something on a braai/barbecue grill that I caught myself; and for a VIP, I’d serve one of my signature Azure dishes, like the grilled baby squid with barley risotto, creamed artichoke, barley puffs, soy truffle purée, soy pickled shiitake mushrooms and green onion oil.

WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? Slate plates! If you’ve ever put your knife into a steak and cut into a slate plate, you’ll know what I mean. We shouldn’t compromise the dining experience by wanting something to look sexy. It should feel and eat well, too. Operating equipment evolved so much in the past decade, but it should enhance the experience, not the other way around.

THE TWELVE APOSTLES HOTEL AND SPA Victoria Street Camps Bay, Cape Town, 8005 South Africa tel 27 21 437 9000 12apostleshotel.com

PHOTO: © THE RED CARNATION HOTEL COLLECTION

A LIFELONG LOVE OF FOOD and two years spent working at a vacation resort in Suffolk, United Kingdom, led Christo Pretorius to a culinary career. Now the small boy who grew up in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, is the award-winning executive chef of all restaurants and banquets and events at The Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa in Cape Town.

While following in the footsteps of his mentor, Henrico Grobbelaar, under whom he worked as executive sous chef at The Twelve Apostles, Pretorius also made his own mark at the hotel with inventive new menus focused on international and local cuisine. He also makes a mark on the community, recognized for his efforts on sustainable seafood practices, participating in events centered around youth development and more. He’s received a number of accolades.

“My goal as a chef is to create lasting memories. Engaging all senses is what creates truly special memories that diners will cherish forever,” said Pretorius. From the sounds of it, mission accomplished.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? Springbok loin with pickled apple, red cabbage, cranberry gel, celeriac purée and roast springbok jus. I have always been proudly South African. We, as South African chefs, are incredibly lucky with the quality of produce we get here. If you have traveled elsewhere, you realize how lucky we are to be able to afford the quality, abundance and variety of meats and vegetables available to us in South Africa. We need to respect and celebrate it in our profession as much as we can.

WhereverFamily’s 2020 Travel Auction Supports The KAI Foundation FXExpress Publications, Inc., regularly hosts online travel auctions to benefit worthy causes. Thanks to your generous participation in past auctions, we’ve raised more than $1 million in charitable donations. In 2020, WhereverFamily will host an online auction to benefit the KAI Foundation, as they aim to provide facilities and support to aid the less fortunate in building successful lives for themselves and promising futures for their children. Join us by bidding often on some fantastic items, including round-trip airfare and Briggs & Riley luggage.

Visit whereverfamily.com throughout the month of March to start bidding.

Read more online for instructions and check back regularly as new items will be added.

The Claire Kartagener Maternity Ward Mugarameno, Chiawa, Zambia

Following a family trip to Zambia during which the Kartageners visited Mugarameno, a small village approximately 45 minutes by boat from Lower Zambezi National Park, it was determined the village would be the site of the KAI Foundation’s first project. The clinic in Mugarameno serves about 20,000 people living in the vicinity and the facilities left much to be desired. The one-room clinic had no running water and limited electricity. The KAI Foundation built the Claire Kartagener Maternity Ward, opened in 2016, for the community. Today, additional housing facilities for staff and volunteers are being built, and KAI Foundation looks to its next project, helping an underfunded school in Asia.

THE KAI FOUNDATION IS A 501(C)(3) NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION.

cruising

GEARED FOR GROWNUPS Indulge in true relaxation and recreation on an adults-focused cruise. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

IT WOULD BE DIFFICULT TO FIND a cruise company more kid-friendly than Disney Cruise Line, but even at Disney, where animated characters rule the waves, adults can still take command of the helm. Each of Disney’s four ships features areas open from morning to night where adults can enjoy kid-free dining, recreation and entertainment options. The Quiet Cove offers an adults-only pool, hot tub and splash-up bar. One deck up lies an adult sundeck and sunbathing area. The Remy and Palo restaurants are adults-only, too, as is the Senses Spa & Salon with a full range of spa and beauty treatments including a thermal suite with sauna, whirlpools and heated ceramic loungers. Cruises offer mixology and tasting classes and shore excursions off-limits to kids, and in the Caribbean, Disney’s private island even includes an adults-only beach with cabanas, bar and barbecue buffet. Back on board, in The District, Disney created an animated corridor of pubs, cocktail bars and nightclubs restricted to the 18-or-older crowd.

Disney is not alone in offering adults-only zones and facilities on its regular cruise ships. Norwegian Cruise Line equips its vessels with The Haven, a ship-withina-ship containing its own concierges, around-the-clock

KID-FREE ZONE:

Norwegian Cruise Line’s The Haven Bar (above) and The Haven courtyard (right) PHOTOS: © NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

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butlers, sundeck, lounge, restaurant and staterooms, all reserved for passengers 18 and older. Celebrity Cruises maintains its own 18-plus sanctuary, The Retreat, featuring personal butlers, a private restaurant, a pool area and an exclusive lounge. Royal Caribbean’s ships offer The Solarium, where adults can enjoy private hot tubs, a pool and a full bar surrounded by a glass canopy. Princess Cruises has a similar adultsonly inner sanctum known appropriately as The Sanctuary. And on Seabourn Encore and Seabourn Ovation, cruisers can rent an adult escape zone, known as The Retreat, by the half or full day.

In addition to a hot tub and bar, Seabourn’s adults-only retreat provides 15 cabanas, each lavishly furnished with a couch, dining table, flat-screen TV, Bluetooth headsets, slippers, towels, souvenir tote bag, stocked minibar, fruit plate, lunch service, afternoon tea delivery and a bottle of Bollinger Champagne.

Such adults-only zones have become quite popular, but they encompass only a fraction of the whole cruise ship, where the majority of facilities and activities one might want to enjoy are not kid-free.

For those seeking a full adults-only cruise, the options are more limited but well worth considering.

From the start, Viking Ocean Cruises, with its new fleet of 930-passenger ships, restricted its passengers to those age 18 and older. Recently Viking extended this policy to its vast fleet of river ships. Today there are no facilities or programs geared to infants, children or teenagers on any Viking cruises. Parents and grandparents will have to leave the kids at home.

The world’s newest luxury cruise line, Virgin Voyages, will also bar passengers under 18 when it begins operations in April. The first of Virgin’s three ships, the 2,770-passenger Scarlet Lady, begins a year-long program of four- and five-night cruises in Caribbean waters with nary a child in sight. Virgin Voyages’ founder, billionaire and airline owner Richard Branson, promises to deliver an “adult-by-design experience at sea.” The emphasis rests

nce perie x e n g si dark y-de fter b a l t l l a b du rag. ges’ ‘a lor, dodge rmer in d a y o nV par erfo Virgi attoo esident p w t e n a d har ludes Bran h wit a’ inc at se and brunc ADULT APPROACH:

Virgin Voyages’ Scarlet Lady tattoo parlor Squid Ink (top) and RockStar suite (bottom) PHOTOS: © VIRGIN VOYAGES

THE BRITISH VERSION

on combining relaxation and activity on an all-inclusive, laid-back, upscale sailing resort.

Virgin Voyages will offer passengers the choice of more than 20 eateries, intimate and open long hours as well as Champagne on demand, a range of RockStar suites, karaoke and DJ spaces, outdoor yoga, a jogging track, a boxing ring and a spa, plus the only tattoo parlor at sea, Squid Ink. Add to that an onboard record shop with listening stations and a vegan/vegetarian restaurant churning out dishes that can turn “naughty” with meat add-ons, and you have something approaching a children’s cruise for grownups — perhaps the unspoken aim of all adults-only cruising.

Three British-style cruise lines boast kid-free, adultsonly ships for passengers seeking to eliminate the hassles and distractions that might be posed with families on board.

The first, P&O Cruises, now sails two adults-only ships: the 1,874-passenger Aurora and the 2,094-passenger Arcadia.

The second, Marella Cruises (formerly Thomson Cruises), launched the 1,814-passenger Marella Explorer 2 last year, the brand’s first vessel exclusively for passengers 18 and older. The third choice, Saga Cruises, raised the age bar higher yet, setting the minimum passenger age on the 999-passenger Spirit of Discovery and new Spirit of Adventure at a lofty 50 years old.

All three lines prove very British indeed, seeing few travelers from outside the United Kingdom, and they seem somewhat staid by New World standards. Expect formal nights along with regular doses of ballroom dancing and shuffleboard.

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2020 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers__________________________________ Best Airline for . . .

Business Class___________________________________________________________________

International First Class_________________________________________________________

Domestic First Class_____________________________________________________________

Onboard Service ________________________________________________________________ Lounges _________________________________________________________________________

Flight Attendants________________________________________________________________

Flight Attendant Uniforms ______________________________________________________

Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs

Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________

Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion_______________________________________________________________

Award Redemption______________________________________________________________

Customer Service _______________________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . .

Africa_____________________________________________________________________________

Australia and New Zealand______________________________________________________

Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________________ China____________________________________________________________________________

Eastern Europe__________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ Mexico___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East _________________________________________________________________

North America___________________________________________________________________

North Asia (excluding China)____________________________________________________

The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . .

Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . .

Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_________________________________________________________________

North America___________________________________________________________________

South America___________________________________________________________________

Best Individual Hotel in the World ________________________________________________ International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs

Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World___________________________________

Elite-Level Program____________________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________________

Award Redemption____________________________________________________________

Customer Service_____________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . .

Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________

South Korea___________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . .

Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________

Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program ______________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

State

ZIP Code Email

feature

Sweet Sixteen

Global Traveler celebrates the 2019 GT Tested Reader Survey award winners.

BY KIMBERLY KROL | PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK AND NICOLAS BATES

FOR THE NINTH CONSECUTIVE YEAR, The Peninsula Beverly Hills hosted Global Traveler’s GT Tested Reader Survey awards. On a beautiful evening overlooking the lights of Los Angeles from the hotel’s rooftop, we lauded the winners of our sweet 16th awards. It was truly a night to remember as we celebrated those travel companies consistently going above and beyond, as voted by our readers. In addition to honoring those winners, we also feted the Airline and Hotel of the Year; winners of our 2019 Wines on the Wing airline wine competition; and Quint Status, Hall of Fame and Crystal Status winners, those companies that won the same GT Tested Reader Survey award for the fifth, 10th and 15th consecutive years, respectively.

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A number of sponsors joined in the festivities including United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase, United Explorer Card from Chase, Air Canada, Ontario International Airport and China Airlines. Liz Watts & Company electrified with Hawai’ian-themed entertainment and fire dancing.

We were also honored to welcome Jacob Adoram Hendrickson on behalf of Water Mission. He broke a world record for being the first person to row the entire Pacific Ocean without stopping or receiving support. He rowed 7,145 miles across the ocean as a fundraising effort for Water Mission, focused on building safe water, sanitation and hygiene solutions around the world so everyone has access to clean, safe water. Learn more at watermission.org.

Be part of the action as we recap the night’s festivities on the following pages.

Well-

WINNERS’ CIRCLEÂ

Best Overall Airline in the World Singapore Airlines Fifth Consecutive Year Best Airline Alliance oneworld 10th Consecutive Year Best Aircraft Type Airbus A350 Best Airline Website AA.com Third Consecutive Year

Fastest-Growing Airline, Trans-Pacific American Airlines Third Consecutive Year Best Airline for International First Class Lufthansa Best Airline for Business Class Turkish Airlines Third Consecutive Year Best Airline for Domestic First Class American Airlines Fourth Consecutive Year Best Airline Lounges Delta Sky Club Best Airline for Onboard Service Asiana Airlines 16th Consecutive Year Best Airline for Flight Attendants Asiana Airlines 16th Consecutive Year Best Airline Cuisine Alitalia 10th Consecutive Year Best Flight Attendant Uniforms Delta Air Lines Best Airline for Security EL AL Israel Airlines 13th Consecutive Year

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3 Best Business-Class Seat Design Alitalia Second Consecutive Year

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Best First-Class Seat Design Air France Second Consecutive Year Best Airline for New Service Launch Air France Paris (CDG)–Dallas (DFW) Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers Turkish Airlines Corporate Club Second Consecutive Year Best Overall Frequent-Flyer Program United MileagePlus 16th Consecutive Year

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Best Frequent-Flyer Elite-Level Program Delta Air Lines SkyMiles Diamond Medallion Best Frequent-Flyer Bonus Program United MileagePlus Seventh Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Award Redemption LifeMiles (Avianca) Best Frequent-Flyer Customer Service American Airlines AAdvantage Second Consecutive Year Best Airline in North America Air Canada Best Airline to South America LATAM Airlines Group Sixth Consecutive Year

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1. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Tara From, director, member management, United Airlines 2. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Byeongok Jeong, executive director, Korea Tourism Organization 3. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Kristen Bowdoin, managing director, Chase Bank Credit Cards 4. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Evelyn St. Germain, director for leisure travel, Posadas 5. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Offer Nissenbaum, managing director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills

Best Airline in Mexico Aeromexico 10th Consecutive Year

6. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Doug Abbott, director, IHG Business Edge, InterContinental Hotels Group

Best Airline in Australia and New Zealand Virgin Australia

7. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Mark Thorpe, CEO, Ontario International Airport

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Best Airline in the South Pacific Air Tahiti Nui Second Consecutive Year Best Airline in Europe TAP Air Portugal Ninth Consecutive Year Best Airline in Eastern Europe LOT Polish Airlines Third Consecutive Year Best Airline in Africa South African Airways 16th Consecutive Year

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Best Airline in the Middle East Emirates Second Consecutive Year

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Best Airline in North Asia China Airlines Seventh Consecutive Year Best Airline in China Hainan Airlines Seventh Consecutive Year

1. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Robert Warren, assistant director, business retention and development, Miami International Airport

Best Airline in Central/South Asia & India Air India Sixth Consecutive Year 7

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2. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Khaled Aylouch, public relations and communications manager, Hamad International Airport

Best Trans-Atlantic Airline Brussels Airlines Second Consecutive Year

3. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Ana Maria Restrepo, marketing and CX director, El Dorado International Airport

Best Trans-Pacific Airline Japan Airlines Third Consecutive Year

4. Jacob Adoram Hendrickson; Amber Ritter, chief commercial officer, Chicago Department of Aviation 5. Eoghan Slye, vice president, marketing, Hertz 6. Jennifer Plasket, senior vice president, deposit sales and marketing, Bank of America 7. Diederik Scheepstra, commercial director, USA, Air France 8. Yoram Elgrabi, managing director, North and Central America, EL AL Israel Airlines 9. Karan Berry, general manager, Mandarin Oriental, Taipei 10. Ethan Grossman, food and beverage product manager, Alaska Airlines

Best Airline to Japan Japan Airlines Third Consecutive Year

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Best Overall Airport in the World Singapore Changi Airport Fourth Consecutive Year Best Airport in North America Chicago O’Hare International Airport 16th Consecutive Year

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Best Airport in Asia Incheon International Airport Third Consecutive Year Best Airport in Africa Addis Ababa Bole International Airport Second Consecutive Year Best Airport in Europe Amsterdam Airport Schiphol Second Consecutive Year 4

Best Airport in the Middle East Hamad International Airport Third Consecutive Year

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1. Diane Shaffer, manager, Volvo Overseas Delivery 2. John Boettcher, vice president, membership and business development, oneworld

Best Airport in South America El Dorado International Airport Second Consecutive Year

3. Jeff Forsythe, senior specialist, corporate sales, American Airlines

Best Airport Staff/Gate Agents Turkish Airlines Third Consecutive Year

4. Mert Dorman, senior vice president, Turkish Airlines Corporate Club 5. Jiho Choi, marketing director, regional headquarters, the Americas, Asiana Airlines

Best Airport Dining Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport Sixth Consecutive Year

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6. Guiseppe Careddu, country manager, director, USA & Canada, Alitalia Airlines

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Best Airport Shopping Miami International Airport

7. Andrew Yiu, managing director, product design, Air Canada

Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport Ontario International Airport, Ontario, California Second Consecutive Year

8. Chee Chian Seah, vice president, Western USA, Singapore Airlines 9. Chris Palmer, director of sales, Americas, Virgin Australia

Best Duty-Free Shopping in the World Dubai Duty Free 13th Consecutive Year

10. Nick Panza, vice president, Americas, Air Tahiti Nui 11. Michal Czernicki, spokesperson, LOT Polish Airlines

Best Duty-Free Shopping in Asia Singapore Changi Airport Third Consecutive Year Best Duty-Free Shopping in Africa Seychelles International Airport Best Duty-Free Shopping in Europe Munich Airport Best Duty-Free Shopping in the Middle East Dubai Duty Free Third Consecutive Year

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TO SEOUL AND BEYOND Be connected.

To Seoul, Asia, and beyond with Asiana Airlines.

Your connection to the world.

Reservations • 1-800-2ASIANA • flyasiana.com

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Best International Hotel Chain The Ritz-Carlton Fifth Consecutive Year Best Domestic Hotel Chain The Ritz-Carlton Fifth Consecutive Year Best Lifestyle Hotel Moxy Hotels Best MICE Hotel Lotte Hotel Seoul Fifth Consecutive Year

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1. Fern Ottavio, sales and marketing manager, North America, TAP Air Portugal

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Best Hotel Website IHG.com

2. Jayson Goh, managing director, airport operations management, Changi Airport Group

Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World IHG Rewards Club 15th Consecutive Year

3. Julie Vargo, vice president, consumer marketing, Boingo Wireless 4. Ed Curry, director of sales and marketing, The Ritz-Carlton

Best Frequent-Stay Elite-Level Program Marriott Bonvoy Platinum Elite

5. Matthew Schlitz, general manager, Chase Bank Credit Cards

Best Frequent-Stay Bonus Program IHG Rewards Club

6. Umar Chaudhry, director, sales development, South African Airways

Best Frequent-Stay Award Redemption World of Hyatt

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7. Porsche Hsu, marketing director, the Americas, China Airlines 8. Kai Zhou, regional general manager, Hainan Airlines

Best Frequent-Stay Customer Service Marriott Bonvoy Second Consecutive Year

9. Hideki Takarada, vice president, marketing & sales, the Americas, Japan Airlines

Best Hotel in the United States The Peninsula Beverly Hills Ninth Consecutive Year Best Hotel in Asia Mandarin Oriental, Taipei Third Consecutive Year

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Best Hotel in South Korea Lotte Hotel Seoul Eighth Consecutive Year Best Hotel in Europe Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski, Munich Best European Hotel Chain St. Regis Hotels & Resorts Fourth Consecutive Year

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10. Christophe Allard, director, North America, Brussels Airlines

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11. Shannon Patterson, senior vice president, customer engagement centers, Marriott Bonvoy

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Achieving greatness one flight at a time.

We couldn’t do it without our loyal travelers, and we can't wait to celebrate with you in the skies.

American Airlines and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. Š 2020 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Best Hotel Chain in Asia Oberoi Hotels & Resorts Best Hotel Chain in Latin America Sheraton Hotels & Resorts Best Hotel Chain in Mexico Fiesta Americana Ninth Consecutive Year Best Hotel Chain in the Middle East Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts Second Consecutive Year Best Hotel in the Middle East Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Second Consecutive Year

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Best Individual Hotel in the World The Address Hotel Downtown Dubai Best Overseas Delivery Program Volvo Fourth Consecutive Year Best Rental Car Company Hertz Sixth Consecutive Year Best Airport Parking The Parking Spot Best Tourism Destination India Best MICE City Seoul Fifth Consecutive Year Best WiFi Service Boingo Wireless Ninth Consecutive Year Best Luggage Brand Briggs & Riley 10th Consecutive Year

1. Ersen Engin, general manager, Turkish Airlines

Best Hotel App Hilton Hotels

2. Peter Tippen, head of marketing, global loyalty program, IHG Rewards Club, InterContinental Hotels Group

Best Airline App American Airlines Second Consecutive Year Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program IHG Business Edge Best Overall Credit Card United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase Eighth Consecutive Year

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8. Joshua Sloser, senior vice president of product, Hilton Worldwide

3. Keiji Omae, vice president and director, sales and marketing, All Nippon Airways

9. Brad Kanfer, marketing vice president, Capital One Financial Corporation

4. Lisa Arias, regional vice president, Hyatt

10. David Kovach, senior vice president, global entertainment, Citibank

5. Ana Tomicevic, director of brand marketing & partnerships for Caribbean and Latin America, Marriott International 6. Samantha Steckbeck, vice president, leisure sales, Oberoi Group

MARCH 2020

7. Samantha Caesar, head of brand loyalty and engagement, The Parking Spot

11. Gerald Hoesl, account manager, Lufthansa Group

One flight to the next.

Simple.

With oneworld® your airline transfers are fast and easy.

Our Global Support teams are there to help and assist with smoother connections. oneworld Global Support is currently available at London Heathrow, Madrid, New York JFK, Miami, Dallas-Fort Worth, Chicago O’Hare, Los Angeles, Tokyo Narita, and Hong Kong.

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oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld. Some limitations and exceptions may apply. For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/benefits. Fiji Airways is a oneworld connect partner which provides select alliance benefits to oneworld members.

For more information, visit www.oneworld.com/oneworld-connect.

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Best Small-Business Credit Card Capital One Spark Miles for Business Best Credit Card Special Events Citi Entertainment Best Credit Card Rewards Programs United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase Eighth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Marriott Bonvoy Boundless Visa Card from Chase Eighth Consecutive Year

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Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Promotions Marriott Bonvoy Brilliant Card from American Express Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Benefits Marriott Bonvoy Brilliant Card from American Express Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Redemptions Marriott Bonvoy Boundless Visa Card from Chase Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Alaska Airlines Visa Signature Card from Bank of America Eighth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Promotions Citi / AAdvantage Platinum Select World Elite Mastercard Sixth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Benefits Alaska Airlines Visa Signature Card from Bank of America Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Redemptions United Explorer Card from Chase Seventh Consecutive Year Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card Princess Cruises Visa Signature Card from Barclays Second Consecutive Year

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1. Andrés Castañeda, senior vice president digital and CX, Aeromexico

6. Kristin Smith, segment management, Barclays

2. Maaike van see Windt, director aviation marketing, cargo and customer experience, Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

7. David Kammann, financial director, CFO, North America Card, Citibank

3. Kristina Hunt, vice president, Marriott credit card product, American Express; Kelly Graham, director, co-brand product management, American Express 4. Kamal Roul, regional manager, the Americas, Air India 5. V. Senthur Kumaran, assistant director, India Tourism

8. Clay McConnell, head of communications, Airbus 9. Ekrem Dimbilogu, director, onboard brand experience and uniform design, Delta Air Lines 10. Claude Roussel, managing director, Sky Club, Delta Air Lines 11. Joel Goldowsky, regional sales director, eastern and north central USA, Emirates

WINES ON THE WING Best International Business-Class Wines on the Wing Etihad Airways

AIRLINE AND HOTEL OF THE YEAR

Best International First-Class Wines on the Wing American Airlines

Airline of the Year Air Canada Hotel of the Year Hyatt Hotels

Best Champagne International Business Class Aeromexico

QUINT STATUS Best Overall Airline in the World Singapore Airlines Fifth Consecutive Year

Best Champagne International Business Class Etihad Airways

Best International Hotel Chain The Ritz-Carlton Fifth Consecutive Year Best Domestic Hotel Chain The Ritz-Carlton Fifth Consecutive Year

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Best Champagne International First Class Air France Best White Wine International Business Class All Nippon Airways Best White Wine International First Class Singapore Airlines Best Red Wine International Business Class Etihad Airways

Best Alliance Wines on the Wing oneworld Best North American Wines on the Wing American Airlines Best North American Sparkling Wine Aeromexico Best North American White Wine American Airlines Best North American Red Wine Alaska Airlines

Best Red Wine International First Class All Nippon Airways

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Best MICE Hotel Lotte Hotel Seoul Fifth Consecutive Year Best MICE City Seoul Fifth Consecutive Year

HALL OF FAME Best Airline Alliance oneworld 10th Consecutive Year

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Best Airline Cuisine Alitalia 10th Consecutive Year Best Airline in Mexico Aeromexico 10th Consecutive Year 1. Paola Penarete, vice president, North America, Caribbean and Asia, LATAM Airlines

Best Luggage Brand Briggs & Riley 10th Consecutive Year

2. April Shapiro, general manager, SkyMiles, Delta Air Lines 3. Sinead El Sibai, vice president, marketing, Dubai Duty Free

CRYSTAL STATUS

4. Matt Vincett, CEO, LifeMiles, Avianca Airlines

Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World IHG Rewards Club 15th Consecutive Year

5. Vincent Frascogna, vice president, Americas, global sales, Etihad Airways

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6. Richard Krulik, CEO, Briggs & Riley 7. Nikhil Takalkar, vice president, loyalty operations, Marriott International

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THE NEXT

CHAPTER

Expanding the Gateway of the Americas

• New capital improvement program for $5 billion in modernization and expansion projects

• Non-stop passenger flights to 163 cities worldwide

• 46 million passengers in 2019 – a new record

• Cargo-only service to 108 cities worldwide

• Route launches in 2019: Casablanca, Cordoba,

• $32 billion in business revenue annually –

London Gatwick, Paris Orly, Warsaw

miami-airport.com

Miami-Dade Countyʼs largest economic engine

feature: airline update

Pride of Portugal TAP Air Portugal expands fleets, routes and passenger experiences. BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS TAKE FLIGHT: Airbus A330neo PHOTO: © TAP AIR PORTUGAL

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AS PORTUGAL AGAIN EARNED Best European Destination in the World Travel Awards, the nation’s primary airline, TAP Air Portugal, unfolds bold plans to more than double its flights from U.S. cities and add new routes throughout the world. By the summer of 2020 TAP will add 26 new weekly flights from the United States and Canada, for a total of 82 flights between North America and Portugal each week.

The new routes and greater frequency represent a more than 400 percent increase in just five years, from the 16 trans-Atlantic flights departing Newark (EWR) and Miami (MIA) in 2015.

In addition to doubling the daily flights between New York (JFK) and Lisbon (LIS), the current Newark–Porto (OPO) flights will become daily. Flights from Miami will increase to 10 a week, MARCH 2020

new the s, h t Pet Wi o G es& &Go Mil iles M n TAP ers ca m 0 o 0 t o5 cus t p nu ear when s mile ing on r el v thei tra h t i w in TAP hether e w , th pets bin or a c the . hold

and there will be daily flights from Washington, D.C. (IAD), and Chicago (ORD) to Lisbon. Six flights a week will begin by summer between Montréal (YUL) and Lisbon, and five between Boston (BOS) and Ponta Delgada (PDL) in Portugal’s Azores Islands. North American routes to Orlando (MCO) and Cancún (CUN) are also in the works.

These planned new and expanded U.S. routes come on the heels of three new routes added in summer 2019, when the first TAP flights to Lisbon took off from San Francisco (SFO), Chicago, and Washington, D.C. TAP also serves both Boston (BOS) and Toronto (YYZ) with daily flights to Lisbon.

TAP’s focus goes beyond its North American routes. The operational expansion includes increasing flights to Natal (NAT) and Belém (BEL), Brazil, from three to five per week and adding a fourth weekly Porto–São Paulo (GRU) flight. The Tel Aviv (TLV) route, new in 2019, doubled to two daily flights, with the modern Airbus A321 Long Range allowing better connectivity between Israel and U.S. and Brazilian destinations.

After initiating six new European routes in 2019, this year TAP will launch a route to Santiago de Compostela (SCQ) and add flights on existing routes to other Spanish cities along with Casablanca, Morocco (CMN). In Africa, where TAP serves as many as 134,000 people a month, the latest new route is Banjul, The Gambia (BJL), bringing the total number of African destinations to 18.

As expected, recent expansions to TAP’s routes paid off with a marked increase in passenger numbers, and in July 2019 the airline carried a record-breaking 1.7 million passengers, a growth of 11.6 percent from the previous year. The increased North American routes more than doubled the number of TAP’s trans-Atlantic passengers.

New routes and increased frequencies mean corresponding investment in its fleet. In the summer of 2019, TAP’s fleet reached 100 aircraft for the first time in its 74-year history. The first of the airline’s order of 71 new Airbus aircraft — which include 21 Airbus A330neos, 19 Airbus A320neos, 17 Airbus A321neos and 14 Airbus A321 Long Range jets — have begun arriving. TAP is the launch airline for the A330neo and, as of the end of 2019, the world’s only airline operating all of Airbus’ latest-generation NEO aircraft.

SWEET FLEET: Lie-flat seat on TAP Air Portugal’s Airbus A330neo (top), and an A321 LR PHOTOS: © TAP AIR PORTUGAL

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HEIGHT OF TASTE: TAP’s Star Chefs PHOTO: © TAP AIR PORTUGAL

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In just one month, TAP christened seven new aircraft, named for important figures in Portuguese history and culture.

With the upgrading of its fleet, TAP assures all passengers enjoy the same comfort as those on long-distance planes, with more space, ergonomic seats, onboard entertainment and connectivity that includes unlimited free messaging via WiFi. TAP is the first airline to fly the new Airbus A330-900neo, equipped with the AirSpace by Airbus cabin, quieter and with lighting adapted for different phases of the flight. It also features ergonomic and more spacious economy seats and state-of-the-art, full-flat seats in Executive Class.

The Airbus A321 Long Range, used on mid- and long-haul flights, also offers ergonomic and more spacious economy seating and state-of-the-art, full-sized seats in business class. All classes include Portuguese-designed Recaro seats.

With the fleet renewals, TAP added EconomyXtra seating for an upgraded economy-class experience, so far making it available on the Lisbon–São Paulo and Lisbon–San Francisco routes and on some medium-haul routes. These 56 reclining seats in the front rows of economy offer more space and adjustable headrests, as well as power and USB connections.

On long-haul flights, EconomyXtra also includes headsets and a

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luggage compartment.

Along with access to more than 100 award-winning movies, including the latest Hollywood releases, TAP apps allow passengers to download newspapers and magazines to read during flights. Passengers can begin downloading upon check-in.

Along with greater passenger comfort, the new aircraft increase the fleet’s fuel efficiency and reduce carbon emissions. The Airbus A330-900neo is equipped with Rolls-Royce Trent engines that average 17 percent lower fuel use than the previous generation.

This significantly reduces both CO2 emissions and noise. Likewise, the Airbus A321-200neo consumes as much as 15 percent less fuel than the Airbus A321 and can fly longer routes. The Airbus A320-200neo, the improved version of the Airbus A320, proves the most advanced and fuel-efficient single-aisle aircraft flying today, below the industry average for emissions and noise.

Promoting Portugal and its products has always been a priority for TAP, and nowhere does it do this with more enthusiasm than with the pride it shows for Portuguese wines. These have consistently earned prestigious international awards, and a flight on TAP provides a good opportunity to sample them. TAP partnered with some top Portuguese wineries to select the 1.2 million bottles served on board annually. A panel of wine connoisseurs taste them on the ground and in the air to assure the best high-altitude choices.

On the ground, passengers will notice the new service desk in the departures area at Lisbon Airport, near the Premium Customer Center. The spacious area was designed for passenger comfort and convenience, with a rest area and a ticketing system so next numbers can be called via mobile phone.

Likewise, TAP’s Premium Lounge in the Schengen area at Lisbon Portela Airport also emphasizes open spaces and a calm, uncluttered atmosphere. The lounge is open to Executive Class passengers and TAP Miles&Go Gold and Star Alliance Gold members. In other airports served by the airline, TAP shares lounges with Star Alliance and other partner airlines.

Partnerships and codeshares extend the airline’s reach worldwide. This winter TAP expands its codeshare with Etihad Airways to include 10 additional routes in Europe. In August it expanded a codeshare partnership with Air China, covering additional routes from Chinese cities to London Heathrow, Frankfurt (FRA) and Barcelona (BCN).

In line with its mission to promote Portugal, along with increasing the flights that bring tourists and business travelers to the country, a TAP initiative encourages onward-bound passengers to stop for a few days to savor the attractions of Lisbon or Porto. TAP passengers can now spend up to five nights in either city without paying the stopover fee. Bonuses include hotel and museum discounts, half-price Lisboa Cards and complimentary wines at partner restaurants. The Stopover App helps visitors get the most out of their stay.

elow nd b a e e v abo s th e nt i ted e a ativ c m r o a t l i s l i s r n a dmi e P room ic a f th 00 v o i 0 , my. c e 1 e c la ad ive han c a s t A n P e e r d p est’s t ex ecor h mo mos d R char Wit l u r d o B n a nd, he W iest grou to t heav g n s ’ i ld cord wor g, ac n i d buil

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LUCERNE

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COOK ISLANDS

PHOTO: © DORINMARIUS - DREAMSTIME.COM

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FLORIDA KEYS

destination one | TEL AVIV

Global Shift

Tel Aviv’s robust startup culture lures international tourists and businesses. BY BRANDON SCHULTZ WITH CITIES OLD ENOUGH to appear in the Bible and ancient ports connected to classical myths, Israel is a storied land that doesn’t often inspire thoughts of modernity and progress, but its second-largest city should. Though not the capital, Tel Aviv (officially, Tel Aviv-Yafo) is Israel’s economic hub, and its dominance in the technological and creative industries drives traffic to the city in droves. It’s the No. 1 destination for immigration in Israel and has been for the past five years.

A decade ago, Tel Aviv’s economy remained effectively local, primarily serving the Israeli market. As ancient as the sands and seas may be, Israel itself was just barely 60 years old at the time: a young nation with scarce resources and relative instability on the world stage — not at all an ideal environment

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for most established businesses. It was and remains a startup nation, with a climate better suited to startup companies, especially in the booming tech sector.

Israel spends more of its gross domestic product on civil research and development than any other nation in the world and ranks 13th in all scientific output. It’s a sci-tech superpower with Tel Aviv as its hotbed, where considerable investment in infrastructure attracted innovative companies to the city that likes to call itself “the startup city of the startup nation.” Today nearly 2,000 startups scatter throughout the 20-square-mile city bordered by the Mediterranean Sea on Israel’s western shore — the highest density in the world both per capita and per square mile. It’s a staggering statistic, but the most dramatic shift for Tel Aviv, a city already

GOING UP: Tel Aviv skyline PHOTO: © SLIDEZERO DREAMSTIME.COM

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens must hold a passport valid for at least six months from entry date. No visa is required for stays up to 90 days.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGES Hebrew and Arabic

INTERACTION AND REFLECTION: People dining in an open-kitchen restaurant in the hip Sarona district, the former German Templar colony (top), and a Rabin Square memorial to Holocaust victims (bottom) PHOTOS: © DNAVEH - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING THE DRISCO HOTEL TEL AVIV Modern interiors complement classical architecture in this 5-star property on the storied site of the city’s first grand hotel outside of the old Jaffa gates.

4-6 Auerbach St. $$$$

well-established as a technology powerhouse, is toward new global, not local, businesses. The rest of the world has arrived.

As Israel’s clear center of creativity and innovation, Tel Aviv now draws ancillary businesses that support and profit from the thousands of budding startups. Recent arrivals include dozens of business accelerators alongside countless financial, legal and service companies catering specifically to tech newbies populating the scene. This momentum has been building for more than a decade as Israeli businesses flock to Tel Aviv to take advantage of its resources, but it only recently began catching the attention of foreign businesses eager for inspiration. In the past several years more than 100 international research and development centers moved in, indicative of the marked shift in Tel Aviv’s economy from purely local to decidedly global.

The rapid development and expansion of businesses in Tel Aviv brings a wave of new residents from around Israel and beyond and, because of the nature of startups, many of these newcomers are young. Tel Aviv, no stranger to a culture of youth, has long been known for the good food and great nightlife that dominate its social scene, and the municipal-

THE JAFFA TEL AVIV This Luxury Collection hotel boasts an ideal location near many top attractions, including the Mediterranean Sea, Jaffa Port, the Shuk Hapishpeshim flea market, and museums and shops.

2 Louis Pasteur St. $$$$$ THE SETAI, TEL AVIV Past and present collide in the marble and stone halls of this 5-star property comprising historic Ottoman buildings, a restored Turkish hammam and a rooftop infinity pool overlooking the city.

ity actively courted this demographic in its successful effort to become a tech and innovation giant. Here youth isn’t shunned by business and government; it’s valued. Younger leaders tend to take more risks and search for new solutions to old problems, ideal qualities in a startup culture.

Another common characteristic of Tel Aviv’s newest citizens: their transitory nature. The tech industry thrives on enthusiasm, motivation, advanced education and globalmindedness, attracting employees who are not just typically younger but who tend to be internationally curious. More often than not they’re short-term residents who bring their vitality and zeal to the city to work with a local company for a

22 David Raziel St. $$$$$

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +2 Phone code: Country code: 972 City code: 3 Currency: Israeli new shekel Key industries: High-tech, manufacturing, diamonds, agriculture, tourism, transportation

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TALK OF THE TOWN:

People at tables outside a restaurant at Rothschild Boulevard (top), and Marganit Tower, one of the tallest structures in Tel Aviv and a landmark of The Kirya (bottom) PHOTOS: © FOTOKON - DREAMSTIME.COM, © RAFAEL BEN ARI - DREAMSTIME.COM

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few years before heading on to the next venture. As with youth, Tel Aviv recognizes the implicit value here, too. A constant stream of new ideas, fresh excitement and pure energy pours into the city, and that brings growth and innovation not just to business but to local culture. And without the culture, it’s unlikely the industry Tel Aviv worked so hard to develop could survive.

Without such vibrant communities of artists, foodies and culture hounds, there’d be little to attract the intellectual and culturally curious crowds that tech relies on. Relocating to Tel Aviv presents certain challenges; as part of a Middle East nation, its geography alone brings a host of societal and political challenges for many new arrivals. The dramatic influx of residents also puts considerable strain on the city’s infrastructure, but the promise of robust culture can outweigh these pains, especially for a young, temporary resident. As the tech industry depends on a workforce inspired by culture and the city’s culture benefits from its evolving population, both will continue to advance from the symbiotic relationship in a seemingly unstoppable pattern that makes Tel Aviv one of the most culturally attractive destinations for both businesses and travelers alike.

CHECKING IN WITH EYTAN SCHWARTZ CEO, Tel Aviv Global & Tourism

Why is Tel Aviv experiencing such a surge in tourist attention right now, and how will it capitalize on the momentum?

In 2019 the city hosted the Eurovision Song Contest, which introduced Tel Aviv to tens of millions of viewers across Europe and around the world. The city’s preparations for Eurovision resulted in a quantum leap in its standing as a tourist destination. In the coming years, in line with strategic steps to position the city as a destination for large international gatherings, numerous efforts will be made to host international conferences, trade shows and exhibitions. To achieve that goal, the municipality established the International Convention Bureau in 2018. It’s the first collaboration of its kind between the Greater Tel Aviv Hotels Association, Expo Tel Aviv and Tel Aviv Global & Tourism.

What types of tourism products is the city presenting to these new visitors?

Tel Aviv’s unique DNA as a tourist destination rests on three firm pillars: the ancient city, Old Jaffa, our main attraction;

the new city, Tel Aviv, characterized by phenomenal urban vitality; and, of course, the beach, with its extraordinary qualities.

In the coming years efforts will continue to develop, promote and sell the city as a tourist destination while relying on these three pillars. The municipality will give preference to initiatives, projects, attractions and services associated with these three pillars.

Culturally, what’s happening in the city right now?

This year Tel Aviv celebrates 100 years of Bauhaus with the grand opening of the city’s official White City Center. Tel Aviv-Yafo Municipality, the Tel Aviv Foundation and the German government cofounded the White City Center in an effort to advance the recognition of the outstanding architectural landscape of Tel Aviv, with its collection of more than 4,000 buildings constructed in the International Style, known popularly as Bauhaus. The high concentration of these unique historical buildings led UNESCO to declare the White City area in Tel Aviv a World Heritage site in 2003. Joining several leading cultural institutions in the city, the new center is a valuable source of information about the heritage of the White City for both residents and visitors.

WHITE CITY:

Bialik Square, site of the first town hall, an example of Tel Aviv’s famous Bauhaus architecture PHOTO: © RAFAEL BEN ARI - DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING MASHYA Named for mace (the spice), this chic eatery inside the Mendeli Street Hotel takes inspiration from the nearby food market, focusing on the freshest ingredients.

Mendeli Street Hotel, 5 Mendeli St. $$$ OASIS Culinary theater without pretense or gimmick, hyperseasonal ingredients and meticulous craft take center stage at Oasis, where Chef Rima Olvera presents daily masterpieces that may be available for one night only.

17 Montefiore St. $$$$ SHILA Most beloved for its a la plancha dishes, Shila’s locally sourced meat and seafood specialties are long-time favorites in Tel Aviv’s upscale culinary scene. Shila also boasts a sizable wine list.

182 Ben Yehuda St. $$$$

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LOCAL COLOR:

DIVERSIONS Spend an afternoon or evening meandering through the historic stone alleys of Old Jaffa, one of the world’s oldest port cities and featured in both Biblical stories and Greek myths. Just as ancient, the nearby Jaffa Port remains a bustling hub of activity, though much more for recreation today. Move into the 20th century with a visit to White City Center on Idelson Street to educate yourself on the riches of Israel’s Bauhaus collection before exploring the surrounding White City area itself. Entrance is free, and the center provides a calendar of drop-in programs on its website. Come to the present day in the outdoor shopping neighborhood of Sarona, the former German Templar colony that later housed modern Israel’s first government before being converted into today’s dining and shopping experience. Then dive into Tel Aviv’s numerous food and craft markets to engage all of your senses at once. Finally, don’t leave this seaside city without visiting at least one of the dozen or so beautiful beaches surrounding Tel Aviv.

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Old port of Jaffa (above), and an assortment of marinated olives at a stall in Sarona Gastro Market (left) PHOTOS: © RNDMST - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ITZHAKI - DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

Ben Gurion Airport is the country’s primary international airport and by far the busiest.

Taxi dispatchers located outside of the arrivals hall offer fixed but high prices, leading most to opt for generally less expensive private car services. Trains run regularly to and from the airport, but Tel Aviv’s stations lie on the outskirts of the city and require an additional bus or taxi ride to reach most hotels. Trains do not run during Shabbat (Friday evening through Saturday evening). Shared shuttles offer 24-hour, door-to-door service, costing as little as $20 per person and bookable in advance online. When leaving Israel, arrive at the airport at least four hours before takeoff and be prepared for lengthy interviews and aggressive security screening, conducted randomly but frequently.

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VOTED BEST LUGGAGE BRAND • 10 CONSECUTIVE YEARS

Thank you Global Traveler readers

stateside | COLUMBUS

Art of the City Eat, shop and play in hip and happening Columbus. BY JAN SCHRODER AS WE WANDERED THROUGH busy art galleries and locally owned shops and boutiques on High Street in Columbus, Ohio, it was hard to imagine this vibrant area was a decaying, squatter-filled, crime-ridden section of town not so long ago.

The 18th-century brick buildings in the Short North Arts District housing shops, restaurants and residences intersperse with sleek new condo buildings, brand-new high-tech hotels and high-rises under construction. A recent infusion of millions of dollars from the city for streetscape improvements made the area greener, safer and more walkable.

What began as a burgeoning arts district in the 1980s now blooms as one of the hottest, trendiest neighborhoods of this fast-growing city.

The district boasts an arts trail, three parks and dozens of places to eat and shop. Visitors can take

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STREETSCAPE:

Short North Hubbard Grille (top) and a mural interpretation of American Gothic (bottom) PHOTOS: Š EXPERIENCE COLUMBUS

eup mak ion e h t at As opul es p s of it resembl ly close the of ed that Unit bus r e t grea , Colum tes eliSta s a r rket e v o pr ma test s, e l b a food t s fa gns for desi n o i fash ovative inn and ortation sp tran ogies. nol tech

EVOLVING ENCLAVE:

Short North street scene (left), and ice cream (right) PHOTOS: © EXPERIENCE COLUMBUS, © JAN SCHRODER

art, brewery, food and dessert tours or enjoy live music at bars and nightclubs, where they can see the city’s popular drag queens. Short North also has some of the city’s best happy hours and rooftop bars, a relatively new addition to Columbus. The jam-packed events calendar features fitness classes, festivals, tastings, live music and performance art. Giant interactive kiosks help visitors find information on transportation, restaurants, parks, hotels and stores.

Short North, located directly north of downtown Columbus, proves easily accessible by walking or taking the CBUS, a free circulator bus service that runs through downtown and Short North every 10–15 minutes. You’ll know you’re in the right neighborhood when you spot the giant colorful murals on the buildings and lighted metal archways over High Street. These were installed in tribute to the dozens of gaslit wooden arches that first spanned the street in the 1880s, earning Columbus the nickname of “Arch City.”

Betsy Pandora, executive director, Short North Alliance, said, “Short North has grown to be a premier 18-hour area where people love to live, work and visit. We have close to 400 businesses here, double the amount in 2012. It’s a unique, diverse area filled with entrepreneurs.”

The area benefitted from the rapid growth of Columbus, the state capital, considered one of the top places to do business. With more than 2 million people, the city now ranks No. 14 in the

country in terms of population.

“Short North is seeing a significant amount of development,” Pandora said. “More than 1,000 hotel rooms have been added or are under construction.” These include the new Graduate Columbus and the Moxy Columbus Short North.

Joel Pizzuti is president of the Short North Alliance and president of Pizzuti Companies, a commercial real estate company that moved its headquarters to Short North when it was building a mixed-use project in the area. “Our folks wanted to be here. It’s walkable, active, fun and accessible — it’s a fun place to spend the day.”

While urban development is happening everywhere, Pizzuti said Columbus is fortunate because the Short North neighborhood was already growing on its own.

“While it was a place people spent time before, it didn’t have the office and residential component it has now. Over the last 10 years it has really evolved as a community. Being located between the core of downtown and the Ohio State campus has been instrumental. While most of the activity has been along High Street, we now see it moving [three to four] blocks on either side.”

All this development and excitement about Short North bodes well for the city of Columbus.

As Betsy Pandora said, “We have a saying: So goes Short North, so goes Columbus. A lot of activity tries itself out here then spreads across the city.”

SCENIC DRIVES

Columbus’ location close to the center of the state provides easy access to Ohio’s 27 scenic byways. One of the best for scenery and fantastic hiking opportunities is the Hocking Hills Scenic Byway in southeast Ohio. This 30-mile byway makes a loop around Hocking Hills State Park, considered one of the best in the country. It has several hiking trails with rugged cliffs, huge waterfalls and ancient caves.

Travel through some of the most scenic countryside in Ohio on the Covered Bridge Scenic Highway, which parallels the Little Muskingum River south of Columbus. Stops on the self-guided tour include the 192-foot Knowlton Covered Bridge, constructed in 1887; an old country store; and a Mail Pouch barn. These were barns painted with ads for the Mail Pouch chewing tobacco company in the early 20th century.

Estimates say one in six Amish people live in the Holmes County area northeast of Columbus. You’ll most likely share the road with horses and buggies on the Amish Country Byway, featuring plenty of shops selling handmade wood products, baked goods, quilts and Amish food. Make a stop in Winesburg, a historic village settled by four German men in 1827.

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mice | SANTIAGO

Open for Business

The resilient city of Santiago entices MICE planners and travelers.

BY KATIE SKRZEK

MEMORABLE EVENTS:

InterContinental Santiago meeting room (above) and exterior (right) PHOTOS: © INTERCONTINENTAL SANTIAGO

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SANTIAGO, CHILE, SAW POLITICAL UNREST in late 2019, with millions taking to the streets to protest for fairer living conditions, sparked by the government’s announcement of a subway fare price increase and imbalance caused by the country’s market-driven economy. President Sebastian Pinera called for a national peace agreement, requesting more than $2 billion from Chile’s Economic and Social Stabilization Fund over the course of 2019 and 2020 to help end the conflict and repair divisions.

Despite this recent turmoil, the city remains open for business.

Visitors to Santiago primarily arrive at Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport, the largest airport in Chile. Located about 10 miles from downtown Santiago, the airport is a hub for LATAM Airlines. Travelers can take advantage of LATAM’s lounge, the largest in South America, with amenities including sleeping cabins, a business center and an entertainment area.

Several transportation options make for convenient navigation of the city. The Santiago Metro provides a safe, clean, efficient and inexpensive mode of transportation. The network comprises five interconnected lines bringing travelers throughout

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BREAK TIME:

Metal pedestrian bridge at Araucano Park PHOTO: © DIEGO GRANDI DREAMSTIME.COM

UNIQUE VENUES

Las Majadas de Pirque is a unique hotel and meeting venue housed in a palatial building outside of the city center. A former palace from the early 1900s, the property is designed for corporate stays. It offers five room options configured to accommodate different types of meetings or events. All spaces feature audiovisual systems and WiFi. Choose from a variety of catering options and activities, from horseback riding to live music. Las Majadas provides transportation from a single location in Santiago for your team. lasmajadas.cl

the city. If you plan to utilize the system often during your stay, purchase a reloadable Bip! card. Santiago’s bus system, Transantiago, features different color-coded and lettered zones. The bus system is more complex than the subway, so be sure to plan your trip so you use the correct route. Taxis are available, though be wary, as the drivers often scam tourists. Uber also operates in Santiago.

The city’s business and financial center, Las Condes, houses event spaces and several luxury hotels with MICE offerings.

W Santiago features 26,350 square feet of meeting space.

The 11 event spaces can accommodate between 18 and 1,110 guests. Customize your meeting offerings by taking advantage of W Hotels’ Recess program, which includes options from icebreakers to yoga sessions. When planning an event, the property can provide a complimentary unique reservation link to share with your guests for an easy reservation process.

Santiago Marriott Hotel boasts 11,754 square feet of total meeting and event space including six event rooms. Natural lighting throughout the facilities offers a pleasant change from stuffy boardrooms of the past. As an additional option for conducting business, the property offers a business guestroom with a separate office space attached in which to work or host meetings. Many rooms feature stunning views of the nearby Andes Mountains. The property is home to Café Med and Latin Grill, two popular dining options serving the flavors of South America.

Parque Araucano, a park and shopping complex within

walking distance of the hotel, features Centro Parque, an event space boasting more than 37,000 square feet of indoor meeting and event space, with additional outdoor spaces within the park. The versatile venues accommodate anything from small boardroom meetings to auditorium-style presentations, all with state-of-the-art audiovisual options.

The Santiago Business and Conference Center, located in Parque Titanium, is easily accessible via multiple modes of transportation, including vehicle access with parking spaces. Bicycles, a popular mode of transportation in the city, are accommodated, and this venue also lies within walking distance of two Metro stops, El Golf and Tobalaba. With more than 39,000 square feet of meeting and event space spanning three levels, the center proves ideal for large-scale events and conventions. The SBCC employs an in-house caterer with several dedicated gastronomy spaces within it. Its location in the park allows beautiful views from the building. Five hotels stand within an eight-minute walk of the convention center, including InterContinental Santiago.

The recently renovated property includes 27,157 square feet of meeting and event space, with 16 meeting rooms available.

A part of InterContinental Meetings, the property offers its InterContinental Insider Collection for memorable meetings.

These experiences rooted in the destination include everything from off-site team-building activities to local speakers.

With its traditional and destination-focused offerings, Santiago delivers for MICE planners and groups.

Take a short drive outside of Santiago to the Casablanca Valley to experience some of Chile’s best wineries. Viñamar Winery offers three different tasting options and guided tours held Tuesdays–Sundays. Its spectacular restaurant, Restaurant Macerado, serves traditional Chilean cuisine. Choose from à la carte options or three tasting menus. Viña Indómita, right next to Viñamar, conducts daily bilingual tours, with options to host private tours. Consider booking a horseback riding tour among the vineyards. The winery also boasts an on-site restaurant helmed by award-winning Chilean chef Tomás Olivera. Both wineries are located between Santiago and Valparaíso. vinamar.cl indomita.cl

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9–5 | MUMBAI

Dynamic Mumbai Meet with clients amid the city’s kaleidoscopic sights and sounds. BY ELLEN CLARK STREET SCENES:

(Left to right) Mumbai’s creative street art, young Mumbai woman, Kaali-Peeli cabs, train car for ladies only, and a grandmother and granddaughter PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK

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NO BETTER WAY TO SLAM-DUNK into the heart and soul of Mumbai than by visiting Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus train station. A UNESCO World Heritage site housed in an elaborate Victorian building, it is often called “the lifeline of the city.” At all times of day or night the place pulses and surges with humanity, alive with the sounds of huge, clattering, smoking railway cars.

From businessmen in three-piece suits to Sikhs in turbans and dhotis to housewives in shimmering saris and dozens of bangle bracelets, they all rush in and out of crammed carriages. Nothing is slow and relaxed here; the station, almost a life force in itself, proves a microcosm of the city in general.

Besides boasting an astonishing 20 million estimated inhabitants, Mumbai hosts Bollywood, the National Stock Exchange and countless financial and scientific institutions. Savvy and primed for

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success, the city welcomes business travelers from all parts of the world.

Doing business in India can require a little patience, especially for Westerners. It is common to engage in small talk at the beginning of a business meeting. And while business locals adhere to punctuality, meetings can start and finish later than expected, and interruptions occur on a regular basis.

Flexibility remains important, and when negotiations move more slowly than one is used to, it’s wise to relax and not force the situation.

English is widely spoken in business, and Indians place importance on formal titles such as Mr. or Mrs. or sir and madam. Business dress tends toward smart but comfortable: lightweight suits for men and pantsuits for women.

Mumbai prides itself on its impressive assortment of top-of-the-line meeting venues. One of the most historic venues, The Taj Mahal Palace hotel opened in 1903 and was the country’s first harbor landmark. One of its nine-seat conference rooms proves perfect for a small gathering.

Indigo Delicatessen, a European-style eatery with outstanding comfort food, offers circular banquette seating, making it ideal for a casual brainstorming meeting. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Michelin-starred Yauatcha serves outstanding Cantonese dim sum cuisine. A business meeting involving such superb food will undoubtedly impress any client.

With more than 34,000 square feet of event space and 21 event rooms, the Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre Hotel is clearly equipped for

meetings of all sizes. Especially handy for business travelers staying at the hotel, Fratelli Fresh serves excellent Italian cuisine and offers a great place for a quiet client dinner.

Among hotels that cater to business travelers, the superswanky Oberoi proves top-notch. Besides a stunning location on Marine Drive, the hotel boasts luxuries such as silkupholstered armchairs and mother-of-pearl dressers. But it also offers the latest in-room technology and exceptional levels of service. For more reasonably priced accommodations, the Indian ITC Hotels Group offers the Grand Central and the Maratha, both good business hotels boasting great service, good food and more warmth than the big global hotel chains.

Business travelers always face the issue of how to traverse a new city, especially one as huge and immensely crowded as Mumbai. There’s the local train, of course, with its 120 stops and four primary lines — not for the faint of heart. With the cars packed to absolute bursting, hordes of people moving like lightning rush on and off the train.

Local buses also pose a bit of a challenge, especially as they have no air-conditioning and incur frequent traffic delays. The famous black and yellow Kaali-Peeli cabs, offering the best deal for short distances, will cease operation in June. Uber and Ola

provide comfortable options.

If you have time for sightseeing between meetings, consider several interesting possibilities. The Gateway of India, a colossal structure constructed in 1924 and probably the city’s most iconic landmark, overlooks Mumbai harbor. Film aficionados can arrange for tours of Bollywood studios and locations.

But for the most unusual sight, check out Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat, a massive open-air laundry in operation for more than 140 years. Dirty laundry arrives here from all over Mumbai to be handwashed by the dhobis (washermen) in the seemingly endless rows of concrete troughs.

To see how the locals shop and to experience a feast for all the senses, make a trip to the Crawford Market. With 72,000 square yards of space in a historic Norman- and Flemish-style building, the market has been in business since the 1860s.

Besides the dazzling array of beautifully displayed fresh fruit and vegetables, vendors sell everything from spices to poultry to housewares and gift items, and there’s even a pet shop.

If you need to recharge your batteries after a morning of business meetings, stop by one of the branches of The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf or Barista Lavazza and get WiFi-connected while you sip a rejuvenating cup of coffee or tea.

t is a i a t mb on Mu orefr ing f the e grow cene s th of art eral t e e ev str ia. S orks, s in A sand w eryv u tho cting e ldo i dep from iti g ff thin ol gra ed n o sch nctio er a v to s ls, co lls a a mur ior w n. w er ext ver to o all

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after 5 | LUCERNE

Night Watch Lucerne lights up with activity when the day is done.

BY BECCA HENSLEY

A FAIRY-TALE CITY HEMMED in by mountains on one of the area’s most beautiful lakes, Lucerne exemplifies Switzerland in a nutshell. Its stirring medieval old town brims with sgraffito-adorned houses, colorful buildings, a covered bridge and a glistening lake complete with swans — along with a sophisticated, grownup vibe that makes you want to be an insider.

Myriad mountain trails, water sports options aplenty, a history including the likes of Goethe and Wagner, and heady museums such as the Rosengart Collection establish Lucerne as a destination in itself.

But how to spend your evenings?

Most medieval towns had a night watchman, a person mandated with sounding the hours of the night, either calling out the time or trumpeting it on horns or other musical instruments.

Immerse in Lucerne’s past with an evening tour led by a bona fide night watchman with GetYourGuide. You’ll start on the Chapel Bridge at the sound of the fire horn, then follow the night watchman on his rounds — learning charming anecdotes all the way.

Love music? Lucerne’s known for it.

Listen to some of the best musicians in the world at the Jean Nouvel-designed KKL, Lucerne’s most famous modern landmark.

A concert and conference center touted to offer some of the best acoustics in the world, it features nightly events, from symphonies to speeches. Go in September for the monthlong Lucerne Festival to enjoy appearances by high-caliber musicians such as Yo Yo Ma. Lucerne may be small, but in terms of restaurants, bars and clubs, it reigns mighty. Start with a rib-sticking meal at tavern-like Wirsthäus Taube, serving classic Lucerne-style food such as roesti (a potato dish) or meat loaf. Then head out to some of the city’s special places for adult beverages.

Try Penthouse Lucerne (a stunning rooftop bar), Art Deco Hotel Montana (with live jazz) or the Shamrock Irish Pub (to mix with expats). Feeling lucky? Spin the roulette wheel at Grand Casino Luzern. LGBTQ+ travelers in Lucerne for the weekend won’t want to miss the spectacular “Frigay” dance party at El Cartel, an über-buzzy club and disco.

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AFTER DARK:

Chapel Bridge (top), and KKL (bottom) PHOTOS: © BUMBLEEDEE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © VAIEM4 - DREAMSTIME.COM

FOR

ALL THE MOMENTS WE STAND UP

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neighborhoods | BUCHAREST

Bucharest Reborn Revel in the newfound energy and vibrancy of Romania’s capital. BY KARIN LEPERI

CITY LIGHTS: Bucharest skyline along the Dâmbovița River with the Palace of the Parliament in the background

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PHOTO: © GUTESCU EDUARD - DREAMSTIME .COM

CONSIDERED THE CULTURAL, industrial and financial center riddled with secret passageways and underground shelters, construction started in 1984 and, ironically, remains unfinished. The construcof Romania’s three traditional regions (Wallachia, Moldova and Transylvania), Bucharest continues to emerge from its Communist past tion burdened the Romanian people with a heavy foreign debt, with a cost today of about €3 billion. Originally designed to house all governand the oppressive regime of the former Communist dictator Nicolae ment, it was also to be Nicolae Ceauşescu’s Ceauşescu and his wife, Elena.

UKRAINE home. Guided tours are available, but To its credit, the largest city and capital make a reservation before you visit. of Romania morphed from its tyrannical HUNGARY The historic core of Bucharest, known past with a vibrancy and energy yielding as the Old City, is anything but dated. many surprises worth checking out. Allow You’ll find trendy restaurants, outdoor several days to take in the architecture, drinking gardens, bars, clubs and cafés. monuments, museums, gardens and old ROMANIA The vibe alternates between eating, drinktown restaurants before heading out to the ing and dancing, depending on the time more traditional region of Transylvania. of day or night. Check out tiny lanes like Nicknamed the “Little Paris of the Bucharest SERBIA Strada Smârdan or Strada Covaci.

East” because of its elegant architecture, BULGARIA With a deeply rooted Eastern largely redesigned by French and Romanian architects trained in Paris between Orthodox tradition, Bucharest houses the two world wars, the city features large, tree-lined boulevards along ecclesiastical architecture that fuses elements of Byzantine, Greek, with a triumphal arch, forming a nice counterpoint to former dictator Ottoman and Renaissance styles. Look for high steeples with elaborate Ceauşescu’s most storied creation of excess: the Palace of the Parliament. frescoes, raised pillars and stone balustrades. From the Stavropoleos to The Palace of the Parliament is the second-largest office building St. Apostles’ Church and Antim Church, these sacred spectacles will in the world, right behind the U.S. Pentagon. Built on a manmade hill delight any visitor.

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friends & family | COOK ISLANDS

Pearl of the Pacific Natural beauty and adventure beckon in the remote Cook Islands. BY EUGENIA LAZARIS MODERN ADVANCEMENTS in travel and tourism leave few places on this planet remote and removed from modern society, but the Cook Islands manage to maintain unique culture and history while preserving stunning natural beauty. Not yet affected by the ravages of overtourism, this Oceania archipelago offers visitors a glimpse into a bygone era when life was less complicated and people focused on family, community and quality of life. Adventurous travelers willing to make the trek to this Polynesian gem will find awaiting them a stunning world of timeless beauty.

Deep in the heart of the Pacific Ocean, the Cooks consist of 15 separate islands broken up into two groups, southern and northern. The biggest and most commonly visited, Rarotonga, home to the capital of Avarua, makes a solid starting point for your foray into the Cook Islands.

Rarotonga itself offers an impressive array of entertainment and adven-

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ture options, but the smaller islands feature their own natural beauty and fascinating local culture.

Rarotonga, the most commercial of the islands, boasts a plentiful selection of boutique resorts, restaurants and modern amenities all while maintaining a relaxed style synonymous throughout the islands.

Cultural centers such as Te Vara Nui Village are designed to offer guests an opportunity to learn about local history and culture during the day, culminating in a dinner show complete with traditional music and dances after dark.

Kayaking, diving and snorkeling are extremely popular in the waters surrounding the islands rife with underwater sea life. More than 70 species of native coral and hundreds of species of colorful reef fish make their home in these waters. Enjoy some of the best snorkeling off Muri Beach on Rarotonga’s southeasternmost point and off Aro’a Beach on the southwest side of the island.

On each of these islands — surrounded by the jewel-toned blues of the Pacific Ocean — lush green vegetation crowds right up to the sandy shores of beaches dotted with traditional thatched huts. Thriving jungles blanket the mountains of the interiors, and the small towns that crop up throughout have a laid-back vibe that captures the essence of the island lifestyle. Low-lying buildings (never rising taller than the treetops), a smattering of power lines and the occasional bus or car among the more

NATURE’S BOUNTY:

(Left to right) Snorkeling in Rarotonga, crystal-clear water and lush rainforest, cute piglet roaming freely, and a gecko walking on an indoor wall PHOTOS: © BLAGOV58 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © COOK ISLANDS TOURISM, © RAFAEL BEN ARI - DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING CRYSTAL BLUE LAGOON VILLAS Relax in an infinity pool overlooking Muri Lagoon at these luxury villas. Spacious two-story villas offer privacy and seclusion in expertly appointed accommodations.

Muri Beach, Rarotonga $$$$$

INFO TO GO

Air travel proves the most convenient method of getting to and from the Cook Islands. On the large island of Rarotonga, the international airport (RAR) receives daily flights from the New Zealand cities of Auckland (AKL) and Christchurch (CHC) via Air New Zealand. Air Tahiti Nui services Rarotonga with twice-weekly flights from Papeete (PPT), and Air New Zealand offers non-stop flights from both Sydney (SYD) and Los Angeles (LAX).

Once you arrive in Rarotonga, it is easy to visit the nation’s other islands, such as Aitutaki, via Air Rarotonga, the official airline of the Cook Islands.

Easily get around on the islands by car, bicycle or scooter rental. Public buses run regular routes around the island of Rarotonga, which can be circuited in just a few hours.

common scooters prove the only clues to modern civilization in this island paradise.

Aitutaki, in the northern group of islands, offers a great way to escape the commercialism of Rarotonga. The island boasts pristine beaches, clear blue waters and the oldest church in the Cook Islands. From Aitutaki one can easily visit one of the islands’ most popular attractions, Tapuaetai, or One Foot Island. This little islet, set within the lagoon of Aitutaki, features a stunning beach and some of the most incredible views of the lagoon. From Aitutaki, local water transport takes you to the smaller island, which owes its name to its resemblance to a large footprint within the crystal-clear waters of the lagoon.

The relative safety of the islands proves a strong draw for hikers who can take comfort in the absence of snakes and spiders on the islands. Keep an eye out, however, for plenty of other fauna such as the pet dogs, pigs and chickens that seem to roam the island freely. Geckos also abound, making their presence known not only in the great outdoors but in hotel rooms, where they intrigue visitors by scaling smooth walls and windows and hanging upside-down from ceilings.

The islands also host an impressive assortment of wild birds, including the rare kakerori, also known as the Rarotonga monarch. For the best bird-watching, head to the small island of Atiu, northwest of Rarotonga. Also known by its ancient name of Enuamanu, which translates to “Land of the Birds,” this atoll offers a haven for bird enthusiasts who want to observe the beautiful creatures in their natural tropical jungle habitats and the caves where they dwell. In addition to tours of the island’s bird caves, Atiu offers the opportunity to visit organic coffee plantations and partici-

PACIFIC RESORT RAROTONGA This beachfront boutique resort plays to traditional Polynesian style with beautifully decorated accommodations. Thatched roofs hidden among the shade of palm trees make for a perfect luxury hideaway.

Muri Beach, Rarotonga $$$$$ RUMOURS LUXURY VILLAS & SPA Thatched roofs and white sand make this beachfront property with its waterfalls, tropical gardens and private pools an ideal island getaway for romance and luxury.

Main Road, Muri Beach, Rarotonga $$$$$

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ISLAND FEAST:

Guests participating at an umukai (top), and tropical dish of fish and vegetables (bottom) PHOTOS: © COOK ISLANDS TOURISM

DINING THE MOORING FISH CAFÉ Whether you are looking for a fried fish sandwich or a traditional raw fish salad (ika mata), the selection is always fresh and expertly prepared at this walk-up hut.

Avana Fishing Club, near Muri Beach, Rarotonga $$ OCEANS RESTAURANT & BAR Enjoy spectacular sunsets at this beachfront bar and restaurant.

This resort eatery, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, offers a cultural dance show on Thursdays.

Crown Beach Resort & Spa, Beach Road, Arorangi, Rarotonga $$$ TAMARIND HOUSE RESTAURANT & BAR Executive chef Robbie Brown presents a finedining experience using fresh, seasonal ingredients in delectable meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes.

Pue, Tupapa, Rarotonga $$$$

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pate in fishing and pig hunting excursions.

All 15 islands boast pristine beaches, many secluded and uncrowded. Ranging from rocky shores to long stretches of white sand, the beaches offer plenty of water sports for adventureseekers. The climate in the Cooks remains moderate throughout the year, with temperatures averaging in the mid-70s; however, a rainy season exists from November through March. For this reason travel is optimal during the months of April through October, when visitors can best enjoy outdoor activities like hiking or snorkeling.

Shopping for local souvenirs is a must when visiting the Cook Islands, particularly the black pearls locally produced in abundance by the black lip pearl oysters found in the lagoon of the remote northern island of Manihiki, also known as the Island of Pearls. This tiny atoll is home to approximately 300 residents, many involved in the pearl cultivating industry. While you can find local black pearls throughout the islands, the local pearl authority specifically authorizes and accredits certain stores

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to sell them, such as Paka’s Pearls, Goldmine and Bergman & Sons, all located on Rarotonga.

When it comes to the local foodie scene, the Muri Night Market proves the place to be. This cash-only, open-air market offers an ever-changing variety of local vendors serving up fresh calamari, grilled fish and local fruits in tasty and delicious ways, letting you sample all the local delicacies in one place.

Local dishes are often fried or grilled and take advantage of the tropical fruit and the abundant seafood available year-round.

Lucky visitors invited to attend a umukai will be treated to a feast of local delicacies cooked with hot coals buried under the sand.

Similar to a Hawai’ian luau, this time-honored tradition offers a glimpse into the true food and cultural heritage of the islands.

As for local brews, kava is a customary drink on the islands, along with tumunu, a local beer brewed from oranges. You can find tumunu in small, thatched “pubs” frequented by locals, particularly on the smaller islands such as Atiu.

Keep in mind tipping is not customary on the islands. While not unheard of, it contradicts the native custom of returning a gift with a gift. Likewise, bargaining for better deals from local vendors is also not a common practice.

From the time you arrive and throughout your visit, friendly locals will warmly greet you with a casual “Kia orana,” which translates to “May you live on” in Cook Islands Māori. While the language is spoken throughout the islands, English is also commonly used by locals, making communication easy for visitors.

Whether you’ve got time for several days of exploring or just the evening hours after a long day of work, you’ll find plenty of ways to explore the natural beauty and fascinating local culture and history of the Cook Islands. Using Rarotonga as a base camp and jumping-off point, you can easily visit the smaller islands and learn about each of their unique personalities.

tours | TANGIER

Daytrip to Tangier

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Let a guide lead the way around the mesmerizing Moroccan city.

BY KATHERINE RODEGHIER

THE FIRST THING TO KNOW about touring Tangier: Don’t go without a guide. On the first day of our stay, we made that mistake. A maddening array of eager escorts approached at what seemed like every few steps, some quite aggressive. The next day, we engaged guide Aziz Begdouri to lead the way. It was as if a force field surrounded us. No one harassed us.

Moroccans we passed nodded in greeting to Begdouri, a respected figure who owns Hotel La Maison Blanche in the old quarter.

Begdouri and Ahmed Taoumi, former president of Tangier’s professional guides association, are veteran guides, speak excellent English and come recommended.

Most Tangier visitors arrive by ferry from Spain, independently or on a package tour.

Either way, a professional guide who won’t corral you into some nephew’s shop is a must.

Find private guides through websites such as viatour.com and getyourguide.com. Tour operators who vet guides for Tangier itineraries include Audley Travel, Grand Circle Travel, Kensington Tours, Odynovo, Destination Morocco Tours and Intrepid Travel.

You can experience Tangier on a daytrip or overnight focusing mainly on the old quarter, the medina, with its 15th-century fortifications in the kasbah and its labyrinth of narrow streets boasting buildings in a rainbow of colors and architectural styles: Islamic, Berber, Art Deco.

Markets teem with produce; artisan shops display rugs, mosaics and folk art.

During the early 1900s, Tangier became a nest of spies and shady characters, followed years later by playboys and wealthy expats such as Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton. Beat Generation authors Jack Kerouac and William S. Burroughs hung out in the cafés of the Petit Socco where visitors still sip mint tea and people-watch. By the 1970s Tangier deteriorated. Revitalization under current King Mohammed VI made it respectable again. Check out the Kasbah Museum’s art and archaeological finds in a former sultan’s palace. Another former sultan’s abode once served as U.S. diplomatic headquarters, the Tangier American Legation.

It highlights past U.S. and European work in Tangier; a museum displays belongings of Beat Generation author Paul Bowles.

CREATIVE MIX:

Tangier doors, walkways and buildings feature a rainbow of colors (left); the American Legation, once the U.S. diplomatic headquarters, occupies a former sultan’s mansion (top right); a market displays vegetables for sale (middle right); and artisan shops sell handmade goods like rugs and carpets (bottom right).

PHOTOS: © KATHERINE RODEGHIER

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bucket list | CAPPADOCIA

Up in the Air Drift above Cappadocia’s surreal landscape in a hot-air balloon. BY STEVE JERMANOK

ABOVE AND BELOW: (Left to right) Hot-air balloons over Cappadocia, fairy chimneys, the underground city of Kaymakli, and Goreme PHOTOS: © ELENATUR DREAMSTIME.COM, © YAKTHAI - DREAMSTIME .COM, © DMYTRO GILITUKHA DREAMSTIME.COM, © PEPE14 - DREAMSTIME.COM

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WHEN MOUNT ERCIYES POURED lava over central Turkey thousands of years ago, the volcanic ash formed a surreal, lunarlike landscape consisting of cone-shaped fairy chimneys and layers of soft volcanic rock called tufa. Early Christians found the pervious terrain ideal for escaping persecution by Romans and Arabs.

When wet, the tufa could be easily carved like soap to make caves out of the pinnacles and even underground cities descending hundreds of feet below the surface.

At first sight, this fascinating otherworldly terrain looks like the set of a Star Wars film. Perhaps it would be even more striking from above, surmised the first hot-air balloon adventurers in 1989, who ventured to the sky for an advertising promotion.

Today, hot-air ballooning above this region of Cappadocia is a must-do activity when visiting Turkey. The latest figures in 2018 report a remarkable 63 percent increase from the year prior, for a total of 537,500 passengers.

Every day, weather dependent, a maximum of 100 hot-air balloons inflate before sunrise. Reserve in advance for the first morning you’ll be in Cappadocia, since due to winds and

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weather, tour companies cancel almost one-third of all excursions. If you miss the first morning, you might try for a second or third morning to ensure you’ll be up in the sky during your stay. Choose a reputable hot-air balloon company like Voyager Balloons, in business since 2001. Options range from Standard to Exclusive flights, but we found the Comfort Flights best suited our family of four since we would get our own private compartment on the balloon. The balloons typically hold a maximum of 16 people, and the cost ranges €120–230 per person, depending on the level of luxury.

Though time in the sky usually runs 75–90 minutes, the entire tour lasts four to five hours. Outfitters pick up guests at their hotels sometime around 4:30–5 a.m. and transfer them to a restaurant for a light breakfast. Then it’s on to the balloons to watch the flames as they magically blow up these colorful orbs, still before dawn. Soon it’s time to make your ascent as you find your seat and leave the Earth’s surface.

They couldn’t time these rides better, especially for photographers or Instagrammers who want to capture that essential

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image. The sun rises alongside you, forming shadows and colors on this mythical landscape that mesmerize.

So do the numerous balloons around you crowding the sky. Depending on the wind, you’ll fly over Goreme and Zelve, home to clusters of fairy chimneys, and to the many contemporary villages like Ürgüp that surround these centuries-old enclaves.

Hiring a good outfitter also ensures you’ll have an accomplished guide who can not only navigate but also speak English and tell you about the rich history of this land. The first Christians came to the valleys of Cappadocia in the fourth century, led by St. Basil. They formed communities within the caves, building living areas, bakeries and workshops. Their religious leaders lived like hermits, constructing numerous churches and painting frescoes depicting Jesus Christ and Old Testament figures. Due to the natural aridity of the region, these paintings remain remarkably well-preserved today.

The flight ends far too quickly, and soon you’re back

on terra firma enjoying a Champagne toast and leaving with a certificate of flight in your hand. The balloon ride likely will whet your appetite to explore the open-air museums of Goreme and Zelve in person, where hundreds of churches and homes are located for your cavedwelling pleasure. The excavated underground cities of Kaymakli and Derinkuyu present another highlight of the region. An intricate maze of tunnels and stairways leads to sleeping quarters, communal kitchens, storage rooms … even stables. An estimated 60,000 people lived underground here for periods of up to three months.

A tour guide and a sweater are strongly recommended. The hallways seem endless, and one can get lost in this claustrophobic maze for hours without knowledge of the nearest exit. It can also get quite cold at eight stories under ground, even though it might be sweltering outside. But after exploring Cappadocia from the sky, on land and underground, you’ll understand why it should be on everyone’s wish list.

INFO TO GO

From İstanbul (IST), take an easy one-hour-and-20-minute flight to Kayseri (ASR) and drive another hour (or hire a transfer) to Ürgüp in the heart of Cappadocia. Esbelli Evi, the first cave hotel in the region, makes for a unique place to stay. We booked a spacious three-bedroom suite with full kitchen and patio, all carved out within a cave. Also in Ürgüp, we enjoyed Ziggy Café, where you sit on a rooftop overlooking the hills while dining on small plates of delectable eggplant-, lamb- and tomato-based dishes.

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kicking back | THE FLORIDA KEYS

Tropical Vibe

Get away from it all in the laid-back Florida Keys.

BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY

Key t, the Wes most hern t u o e s in th t n i o p l nenta conti ed Unit es es, li t a t S les 0 mi 9 t s . ju Cuba from

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KICKING BACK IN KEY WEST and the Florida Keys embodies the definition of days off for busy business travelers and visitors on holiday … and a permanent state of mind for residents. If you arrive by air, Key West International Airport is as laid-back as any in the United States. If you make the 160-plus-mile drive from Miami, the views will surely begin your decompression, and the same goes for passengers on the ferry boats cruising the straits from Miami.

With 800 islands in this archipelago, you’ll never see them all. The only highway, U.S. 1, touches only about 10 percent of them. If you choose to drive, plan to spend some time exploring some of the islands along the way.

Key Largo, one of the first you’ll come to, hosts the famous Caribbean Club where Bogie and Bacall filmed the movie Key Largo in 1951. Still serving, it provides a perfect introduction to the atmosphere, food and cocktails ahead on the Overseas Highway to Key West.

If you’re interested in sea life, visit John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, a great place to snorkel over one of the only live coral reefs in the

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INFO TO GO

Choose from four ways to reach Key West and other towns among the 800 islands that separate the bay side (Gulf of Mexico) and Atlantic Ocean side, the Straits of Florida. Most business visitors arrive by air into Key West International Airport or Miami International Airport, where they rent a car and drive one of the most scenic drives (about 160 miles) in America. MIA provides the most air service, both domestically and internationally, but most major U.S. airlines and some smaller commuter services fly direct to Key West. There you can find taxis, shuttles and rental cars. The airport lies just a few miles from the city center and Duval Street.

Greyhound provides bus service from Miami.

Some visitors take the ferry from Miami to Key West and either stay over or return to Miami that night.

Ferry service also runs from Florida’s west coast, seasonally.

Parking can be a challenge if you drive yourself or arrive during the high festival seasons. If you bring a car, check with your hotel regarding parking options.

WATERWAYS:

(Left to right) A French angelfish at the John Pennekamp State Park in Key Largo; a snorkeler ascending to the surface as seen through the open arms of the Christ of the Deep underwater sculpture, Key Largo; and Whale Harbor Marina, a popular tourist destination for the rental of yachts in Islamorada PHOTOS: © LUKE POPWELL - DREAMSTIME.COM, © MICHAEL WOOD - DREAMSTIME.COM, © FOTOLUMINATE - DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING CASA MARINA KEY WEST, A WALDORF ASTORIA RESORT This historic resort boasts the only private beach in Key West plus pools, gardens, golf, spacious suites, business services and a fitness room, all with ocean views. Guests enjoy access to The Reach Resort and its spa.

1500 Reynolds St., Key West $$$$–$$$$$

United States. If traveling with the family, visit the dolphin encounter for a swim with these remarkable animals. There’s also a wild bird sanctuary that displays the Keys’ native birds, many under rehab care by local volunteers for their injuries. If it’s time for a meal, stop

by Key Largo’s famous Conch House for a taste of conch fritters, the origin of the Keys’ “Conch Republic” slogan.

Heading south from Key Largo, Islamorada dubs itself the sportfishing capital of the world. While some might disagree, this island does host several full-service marinas with every fishing experience visitors might like to try, from group fishing to individual private charters costing $1,000 a day and more. This key is all about the water and the sports that thrive on and under it. To take it all in in one location, stop at Robbie’s of Islamorada, where you can see all the boats for rent, check out the dive boats and shop for the charter that fits your budget — and then browse an open-air market.

This marina also runs trips to two remote islands — Indian Key Historic and Key Botanical state parks — if you’re interested in what the Keys looked like before all the development.

After your trip back in time, head to Upper Matecumbe Key, where you’ll find a cluster of shops, bars, fish restaurants and accommodations to fit any budget and taste.

Continue south (and west) past Layton and you arrive in the Middle Keys. In Marathon you can visit a favorite beach of the locals, Sombrero Beach, as well as the terminal for Island Hoppers Aerial Adventures. This offers a chance to see the Keys from the air and spot the best beaches and reefs, an experience visitors and their families will never forget. You might even spot a shipwreck.

Families can also enjoy a visit to the turtle rescue hospital on Vaca Key. For a low-key lunch amid beautiful grounds, drop in to Hawks Cay Resort on Duck Key. Next up: the famous Seven Mile Bridge (over water) and on to the Lower Keys and Key West. During a stop at the National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key you may spot a small Key deer grazing or maybe an alligator in the fresh water of the Blue Hole. You’ll find more diving opportunities here, including a shipwreck. Looking for luxury? Try the private island experience of Little Palm Island Resort & Spa, accessible only by boat. For families, many less expensive lodgings are available.

A short drive west takes you to the main attraction of any visit to the Keys: Key West, the town itself. Depending on how much kicking-back time you have and your interests, a good place to start is the Conch Tour Train.

This touristy ride will show you the most popular sites

HAWKS CAY RESORT A sprawling resort near the beach includes pools, several restaurants and bars, a marina for water activities and conference facilities. Great for families, with rooms and suites for groups away from the crowds. Don’t miss the resident dolphins.

61 Hawks Cay Blvd., Marathon, Duck Key $$$–$$$$ LITTLE PALM ISLAND RESORT & SPA Get a taste of private island life at this five-acre paradise with 30 oceanfront suites and no phones or TVs. Reopening in April, it includes private beaches, pools, spas, gourmet food and water activities. Arrive by boat or seaplane.

28500 Overseas Highway, Little Torch Key $$$$–$$$$$

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KEY WEST ICONS:

Duval Street (below) and Mallory Square (right) PHOTOS: © ANNA KRAYNOVA DREAMSTIME.COM, © WANGKUN JIA - DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING CAFÉ SOLÉ French goes Caribbean where Chef Correa raises the bar on fine dining in style. Dine inside or out and enjoy classics like duck à l’orange or fresh mutton snapper in pesto, plus authentic key lime pie.

1029 Southard St., Key West $$$ SIXTY-ONE PRIME If it was a slow day for fishing or you just crave some prime beef with all the trimmings, SixtyOne delivers a big-city beef emporium to the tropics in a stylish, upscale business setting.

Hawks Cay Resort, 61 Hawks Cay Blvd., Marathon, Duck Key $$$$ SLOPPY JOE’S BAR Eat and drink like Hemingway where he hung out with friends. Dating back to 1933 (the end of Prohibition), the original saloon moved to Duval Street in 1937. Enjoy live music, dancing, a solid menu and cold beer.

201 Duval St., Key West $$

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and provide a bit of history. Old Town on Duval Street presents a self-guided walking tour of restaurants, bars, clubs, galleries and even a butterfly conservatory. Many visitors prefer to stay in Old Town at some hidden gems such as the Marquesa Hotel or the Eden House. But if you prefer a waterfront location, check out the Southernmost Beach Resort or the Westin Key West Resort & Marina.

Bike rentals, abundant and inexpensive, offer a good way to get around to see The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum (don’t miss the six-toed cats), the Audubon House & Tropical Gardens, Key West Lighthouse and the Schooner Wharf Bar overlooking the Key West Historic Seaport. The Mel Fisher Maritime Museum proves popular for all its nautical treasures. More active visitors and families will find options everywhere for diving and snorkeling, kayaking, hiking nearby islands and sportfishing.

Just 68 miles west, you can dive and explore the wrecks and ruins of Dry Tortugas National Park, including Fort Jefferson, established in 1846.

Sunset draws visitors and locals alike to Mallory Square for the special nightly celebration. This tradition is part carnival, part street food and drink with live music, and part natural sensation you don’t want to miss. Or if you have another sunset in your schedule, choose from several options to sail the local waters with full

buffets, drinks and even a dance floor. Another possibility: Just enjoy a catamaran sail with open bar.

Dinner means selecting from the plethora of every possible cuisine imaginable as you walk the menus on Duval Street. For a big night out and something special, head to Michael’s Restaurant or Café Solé. On your way home, Duval Street will just be warming up. Nightlife, restaurants and entertainment options abound in Key West, much less so as you navigate the Keys back northeastward on the Overseas Highway (U.S. 1) to Key Largo and the mainland.

For LGBTQ+ visitors, Key West remains one of the premier destinations in the United States and beyond. Two annual events attract LGBTQ+ visitors from around the world: Fantasy Fest, a 10-day celebration of all that is gay in Key West, and PrideFest, usually held in June. Popular clubs include the 801 Bourbon Bar, where you can play drag queen bingo; the Aqua Bar and Nightclub, presenting drag queen shows; and the Bourbon Street Pub, featuring male dancers and a clothing-optional garden bar. Virtually all restaurants welcome everyone.

For an overview, hop on the Gay Key West trolley tour for a tour of bars, shows, popular gay and lesbian accommodations, and a bit of history of gay life in the Keys.

March 19th “Networking�

ONLY At the Miramar

On the corner of Ocean & Wilshire fairmont-miramar.com | 310.576.7777

lgbtq+

Champion of Diversity West Hollywood welcomes all with open arms. BY MARK CHESNUT

ONLY A TRUE CITY SINCE incorporating in 1984, West Hollywood’s fame as an LGBTQ+ destination goes back much further. In the 1950s, a nightclub called Ciro’s hosted the world’s first Sunday afternoon tea dances for gay men. In 1984 the city elected its first openly lesbian mayor, and in 1985 West Hollywood also became the first U.S. city to legally recognize same-sex relationships. Today more than 40 percent of its residents identify as LGBTQ+, and Visit West Hollywood, the city’s tourism organization, plays up the city’s appeal with LGBTQ+ globetrotters. If you want to see what a modern LGBTQ+ community looks like, this is the place.

Navigate West Hollywood easily by breaking it down into three main districts: the Sunset Strip, lined with hotels, restaurants and entertainment; the West Hollywood Design District, where shoppers pick up the latest designer styles; and Santa Monica Boulevard, serving as a hub for the city’s LGBTQ+ nightlife. Here locals and visitors alike stop at popular venues like the Abbey, a restaurant by day and a dance club by night; GYM, an LGBTQ+ sports bar; and Fiesta Cantina, a relaxed LGBTQ+ bar also serving Mexican food.

If bar food isn’t your thing, not to worry. West

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Hollywood overflows with sophisticated dining options, including Aburiya Raku for Japanese, Connie and Ted’s for seafood, and E.P. + L.P. for pan-Asian dishes. Or for a lively drag brunch, consider taking a table at Hamburger Mary’s, where drag bingo and live entertainment are part of the experience.

Top accommodation choices include Andaz West Hollywood, a legendary hotel once nicknamed “Riot House” because of the flocks of misbehaving rock stars and celebrities who stayed there. Jim Morrison, Led Zeppelin and Little Richard may be long gone from its corridors, but the property has been reborn with stylish décor, an excellent rooftop pool and extensive amenities like a free daily wine hour. Other noteworthy upscale hotels include the elegant Sunset Tower Hotel; trendy The Standard, Hollywood; and the swanky Mondrian LA. June will prove an especially festive time to visit West Hollywood this year when the city hosts the 50th anniversary of LA Pride, Southern California’s largest LGBTQ+ pride event. Look for multiple days of live music, dance and parties, as well as a vibrant parade along Santa Monica Boulevard.

PARTY TIME:

LA Pride participants PHOTOS: © MARK CHESNUT

PHOTOS: © VIAVALTOURS - DREAMSTIME.COM, © RYAN FLETCHER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © FABIO FORMAGGIO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © DARRYL BROOKS - DREAMSTIME.COM, © PIOTR ADAMOWICZ - DREAMSTIME.COM, © NASIMI BABAEV - DREAMSTIME.COM, © WIKTOR WOJTAS - DREAMSTIME.COM, © KUREMO - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ONDŘEJ PROSICKÝ - DREAMSTIME.COM

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Enjoy a private villa in the gardens at The Ocean Club Resort in the Bahamas.

Airbnb joins the impressive list of 2020 Olympics sponsors as one of the lodging providers.

Head to the Falkland Islands for a trip of a lifetime.

airport update

Doubling Down Dubai looks ahead with a keen eye as both major airports continue to grow. BY ERICH MARTIN

DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (DXB) remains the city’s main aviation hub, but the other airport serving the region, Al Maktoum International Airport (DWC), is expected to far eclipse Dubai International in the coming years. Still under construction and gaining capacity, Al Maktoum first opened for commercial flights in 2013. When it reaches ultimate completion, the airport will be the largest global gateway, serving more than 160 million passengers annually.

Locally known as Dubai World Central, Al Maktoum’s most recent expansion, completed in 2018, raised its annual capacity from 5 million to 26.5 million. The number of passengers and airlines coming through the new airport might take a while to catch up to the hub’s capacity, though.

Through the first nine months of 2019, 1.3 million passengers passed through DWC; most passengers came through as a result of closed runways at Dubai International. As the numbers stand, Dubai International Airport remains the major hub for travelers flying into and out of Dubai, serving 64,495,241 passengers in the first nine months of 2019.

Dubai International Airport officials do not intend to let the airport rest on its laurels. In 2018 DXB came very near its 90 million-passenger total capacity with 89,143,351 passengers. Another project currently underway will increase its capacity to more than 118 million passengers by the end of 2023.

Together, DWC and DXB are expected to surpass 120 million annual passengers by 2025.

DXB has a unique position of influence, and the airport uses it to reduce its carbon footprint and produce less waste overall. Last June Dubai Airports, the governing organization of both DXB and DWC, announced the airports would impose a self-enforced ban on all single-use plastics. Straws, coffee lids, water bottles, utensils and more need to be purged, with airport officials working with vendors to meet the goal.

The first phase of the change went into effect in the beginning of January, removing plastic cutlery, straws, food packaging and polythene bags from the airport. Over the next year more products will be replaced. Hand in hand with

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the reduction of single-use plastic, the airports are increasing recycling efforts.

The future for DWC is uncertain with DXB continuing to grow and expand in the face of diminished numbers.

Dubai itself, however, continues to attract millions of visitors, whether they visit the city itself or just pass through.

DUBAI DUO:

DWC (top) and DXB (bottom) PHOTOS: © DUBAI AIRPORTS

DUBAI AIRPORTS dubaiairports.ae

medical tourism

Something to Smile About Dental needs and desires motivate many medical travelers. BY DEBRA BOKUR

HERE’S SORT OF A FUN FACT: In Europe, travelers refer to medical trips for dental work outside of their home country as “dental holidays.” While it might seem a stretch to equate a trip involving needles and drills to a relaxing getaway, the savings to American travelers having expensive dental work performed outside the United States might make those details seem a little less distressing.

Travelers aren’t necessarily packing their bags and heading to foreign clinics for standard work such as fillings or root canals, though. Data shows the most popular procedures are veneers and dental implants, followed by other work such as bridges and dentures.

According to Maria D. Georga, international medical travel specialist and regional manager, International Medical Travel Journal, dental surgery currently ranks as the thirdmost popular category of medical tourism.

“The ‘Medical Travel and Tourism Global Market Report’ shows that dentistry is among the most popular categories for which medical travelers are leaving their [own] countries,” said Georga. She adds the primary destination for dentistry links directly to which part of the planet patients travel from. Americans tend to travel to Mexico or to South American countries for dental work. For those based in Europe, the leading destination remains Budapest, Hungary, followed by locations within Turkey, Slovenia and Poland.

The dental services market is expected to experience significant expansion before 2023. Contributing factors to projected growth include an increase in the global geriatric population and a rapid, worldwide escalation in diabetes, a condition that can worsen the frequency and severity of gum disease and destabilize the bones vital to anchoring teeth.

While medical insurance in the United States is regulated, dental insurance is not. And though the medical community has long recognized the condition of gums and

teeth — including their alignment — can be an indicator of broader health issues ranging from headaches and kidney disease to heart health, American medical insurance rarely offers coverage for dental care.

Yearly benefit restrictions in most dental insurance plans do not offer coverage for more expensive procedures, prompting many Americans to seek solutions abroad that can be combined with travel. During downtime between implant procedures, patient-travelers might take in the historic sites in Budapest or bask beneath the sun in Mexico or South America.

Recent commentary in The American Journal of Medicine references this lack of insurance coverage as a driving factor in the decision to go abroad, particularly for older Americans additionally disadvantaged by the lack of dental coverage offered by Medicare. Unless this changes, dental clinics in other parts of the world will continue to specialize in assisting American and other foreign tourists who seek solutions for dental demands.

DENTAL HEALTH:

Stomatologist polishing fresh sealant, providing cosmetic dentistry for a chipped tooth PHOTO: © MOTORTION - DREAMSTIME.COM

ing clud n i s ie untr ment In co vern o g , nd co atte Mexi o t idies l subs hoo al sc er t n e d o low t e t sla nts. tran patie r o f s cost

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preview

Quito’s unique geographic location provides visitors with a spectacular wall of snowcapped Andes Mountains and volcanoes just beyond the skyline, as well as flowered gardens and palm trees. In 1978 Quito’s cobblestoned 16th-century Old Town, one of the least altered and best-preserved colonial-era districts in South America, received a designation as UNESCO’s first World Heritage site. Learn more about Quito, Ecuador, next month as you read 9–5 Quito.

PHOTO: © ALESSANDRO PINTO - DREAMSTIME.COM

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