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BHUTAN p. 54 COSTA RICA p. 74 GUATEMALA p. 72 HOBART p. 64 . ISTANBUL p. 66 MINNEAPOLIS p. 60 PATAGONIA p. 68 PRAGUE p. 62
THE GREEN ISSUE
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EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com
NATURAL TENDENCIES WELCOME TO OUR third Green Issue! We introduced our themed issues in 2017, and our annual Green Issue kicks off the year with a look at some of the most eco-friendly destinations and travel providers around the globe. Following a year of back and forth and ups and downs when it comes to the environment, it’s a welcome chance to take a closer look at countries and cities getting it right when it comes to green initiatives ECO AWARENESS: and to examine more closely how we can Kimberly Krol on a recent Seabourn cruise do our part. PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL Given this month’s theme, it seemed fitting to include one of the world’s most valuable resources in my photo this month — our seas and oceans. Our waterways were of particular focus in the past 12 months as a movement to end the use of single-use plastics gained momentum, even in the travel industry. Plastic straws, in particular, are polluting our oceans. Hotels, airlines and cruise lines made a move to replace them, stirrers and more with eco-friendly alternatives. On board my recent Seabourn cruise — I’m on the veranda of our suite in my photo — all the straws were paper, and I could see a concerted effort to clean up trash and debris and recycle appropriately on the islands we visited. Each time I saw a stray piece of trash or an empty bottle tossed to the side, it hit home a little harder how close that was to ending up in the Atlantic Ocean or the Caribbean Sea. It reinforced to me I can personally improve my own habits to ensure I leave the world even a little bit better. Join the fight with some of the world’s airlines, hotels and airports; highlighted on page 40 are a few doing what they can to rally against some of the more destructive effects of the travel industry on the environment. Another important issue is animal conservation. In addition to Susan Barnes’ exploration of the subject on page 46, I was reminded of this when I visited a hawksbill turtle sanctuary on Bequia in St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Orton “Brother” King started the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary after a lifetime as a native skin-diving fisherman. Being one with the ocean led to his mission to save this species of turtle from extinction. It was fascinating to learn more. Where else in the world should you consider for eco-conscious travel? We highlight Vancouver, Bhutan, Minneapolis, Prague, Hobart, İstanbul, Patagonia, Guatemala and Costa Rica on the following pages. Join us next month when we take a look at up-and-coming MICE destinations worldwide and announce the winners of our Leisure Lifestyle Awards in our annual Leisure Lifestyle Edition. Until then, travel smarter!
Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com
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ete bios, For compl a.com travelerus al ob visit gl
CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON
ore With m lakes than 20 city within limits, polis is Minnea as the known Lakes. City of e about Learn mor is on Minneapol . 60 ge pa
Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN
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TAKE THE INITIATIVE AS USUAL, THERE IS a great deal going on at Global Traveler. We just completed the most successful Leukemia & Lymphoma Society Red & White Ball in the history of the chapter, for which Global Traveler assists in the silent auction. We attribute our success both to our airline and hotel clients who donate tickets and accommodations and to our readers who ON THE ROAD: bid online during the annual silent Francis helps a taxi driver with directions in Egypt. auction. We applaud you all for your PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER efforts! This month I travel to Myrtle Beach for my annual golf tune-up trip. Over four days we’ll play some eight rounds of golf, leaving little time to do anything else but sleep. I hope to have some golf reports to share in upcoming GT issues. We will follow this trip with a 10-hour drive south to spend Easter break in Sarasota. In addition, we gear up for the Leisure Lifestyle Awards, held at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills on May 16. In its seventh year, this event now sports more than 40 award winners specializing in luxury leisure travel and goods. We will also present four Special Achievement awards ranging from social responsibility to environmental achievements. We look forward to a fun-filled, exciting evening under the stars on the Sofitel’s pool deck — we hope without swimming lessons. Also in May, our 16th Wines on the Wing Airline Wine Competition will take place this year at City Winery on Varick Street in New York City. City Winery agreed to host the survey, marking its second time in the past three years. The judging includes a professional blind tasting during the day followed by a reception on May 6 for us amateurs. I’ll save the rest of the summer plans for subsequent issues. Needless to say, we have plenty happening between now and then to keep us busy updating you on the business and leisure travel activities available to us all. Enjoy the final days of spring, and please read this Green Issue from cover to cover for insights into eco-friendly travel. Did you know April 22, Earth Day, is actor Eddie Albert’s birth date? He was a staunch supporter of the environment. Travel well!
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contents
April 2019
PHOTOS: © BIOSPHERE EXPEDITIONS, © VKOLETIC - DREAMSTIME.COM, © TETIANA ROZHNOVSKA - DREAMSTIME.COM
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FEATURES
BUSINESS DESTINATIONS
40 Greening Up The concept of sustainability broadens for the world’s airlines, airports and hotels.
54 Destination One: Bhutan Bhutan welcomes visitors while protecting the environment and its national culture.
46 Protecting the Planet Combine conservation and travel to help save animals and their habitats.
60 Stateside: Minneapolis Big, bold changes shine a new spotlight on Minneapolis.
50 Natural Appeal Vancouver proves the ideal venue for eco-friendly events.
62 9–5: Prague The Czech capital knows how to make doing business a pleasure. 64 After 5: Hobart Revel in the bucolic beauty of Tasmania’s port city.
ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99
April 2019
BHUTAN p. 54 COSTA RICA p. 74 GUATEMALA p. 72 HOBART p. 64 . ISTANBUL p. 66 MINNEAPOLIS p. 60 PATAGONIA p. 68 PRAGUE p. 62
THE GREEN ISSUE COVER PHOTO: ELEPHANTS IN A CHIANG MAI JUNGLE, THAILAND PHOTO: © LAMBERTO JESUS LUQUE PEREZ - DREAMSTIME.COM
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LIFESTYLE
CONNECTIONS
LEISURE DESTINATIONS
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66 Neighborhoods: İstanbul Explore İstanbul’s high-energy hub of Beyoğlu.
Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Tours Spas Chefs Cruising LGBTQ+ Health
Mail Call News Reviews One on One Turkish Airlines 24 One on One InterContinental Hotels Group 80 Airport Update 82 Preview
68 Friends & Family: Patagonia Trek to remote beauty and adventure in Chilean Patagonia. 72 Bucket List: Guatemala View the power of nature as you hike Guatemala’s Pacaya Volcano. 74 Kicking Back: Costa Rica Discover the abundant biodiversity of Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula.
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FX E X P R E S S
P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .
Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2019 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
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April 2019
mail call Q&A WITH PATTY VANIKIOTIS, ASSOCIATE EDITOR/COPY EDITOR
Q&A WITH MARIE EDWARDS, DIRECTOR OF SALES
Whenever I travel for work, I try to find new and interesting places to visit, especially green spaces. So many cities are becoming more sustainable, green and making significant changes to the city landscape and community.
In our February 2019 issue, Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor and copy editor, mentioned plans for a fall trip to Spain and Portugal. Needing to rent a car and having never driven internationally before, she asked: What tips do you have for undertaking such a journey? If you’ve made such a trip, what would you consider essential take-alongs and key elements to consider? Any pitfalls we should try to avoid?
THOMAS MASTERSON, via email My husband and I have rented a car for all of our European vacations. We have traveled to Spain and Portugal four times in the last eight years. You must have an international driver’s license for each driver. Good for one year, we get ours from AAA. I like to take a Michelin book map for more detail than the standard folding country map; you can order them online. I highly recommend a standalone navigation device rather than one you rent with the car. You will know how to
Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com
use it, it will be in your language and you can carry it with you in pedestrian mode in cities or on hikes. You can load the international maps, and it comes with software to load onto your home computer. You can map out your driving routes with planned stops, then transfer them to the nav device. You can also load places you want to visit, restaurants, gas stations, banks and such, and transfer them to the device. Spain and Portugal have some skinny streets in the old towns and villages, and you want to avoid them if you can. Have a great trip.
and gender equality. A few readers wrote in with thoughts:
Netherlands would be higher on the list.
Found the distribution ridiculous. Surely ... Bhutan above Sweden ... Qatar above Israel? Seriously? Is this based upon actual travel, or brochures published by the respective countries?
ANGELA NEWSON, via email
DR. RICARDO SCHACK, via email Germany ranks as the most desirable destination for ethically minded travelers? I don’t know about that. In terms of animal welfare, I would think the
THE END OF THE A380 In the Feb. 20 edition of eFlyer USA, we discussed Airbus ceasing production of the A380. The final Airbus A380 aircraft will be delivered in 2021, and some readers wrote in with a response: I have had the pleasure of flying an A380 only a few times, and it quickly became my favorite jet. I hope I will have the opportunity
GLORIA CANTRELL, via email
TRAVEL MORALITY In the Feb. 6, edition of eFlyer USA, we discussed the rankings of ethical travelers, according to a study by The Latin America Travel Co. The list was conducted based on human rights, animal welfare
CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.
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I rented a car internationally once when I traveled to Italy a few years back. The process was a little tedious but manageable. There are so many options these days in choosing a reputable company, but I had a travel agency handle everything for me.
Do you seek out gardens and parks or have a natural curiosity about urban locations that have been transformed within the city/destination you are visiting? If so, what cities are your favorites?
CHICAGO'S O'HARE AIRPORT IS NOW
THE BUSIEST AIRPORT IN THE U.S. IN 2018, O’HARE MADE MORE THAN 900K ARRIVALS AND DEPARTURES.
CONNECTING THE WORLD TO CHICAGO AND CHICAGO TO THE WORLD VISIT www.flychicago.com
@fly2ohare @fly2midway
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mail call to fly on an A380 again. SCOTT PEDERSON, via email I have just gone through your description regarding its outstanding qualities and likeability throughout the world, but then what are the other reasons for its discontinuation of production which have not been mentioned?
to from most hubs in Europe, and the people are friendly and welcoming. TOM LINHARD, Globility Board member,
9–5 | CAPE TOWN
via email
Read your online story regarding U.S. and Canadian travelers to Malta. My husband and I visited Malta for a week in May last year (we are from Ontario, Canada). It was fantastic.
Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers
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passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques
globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2018
MUHAMMAD SHARIF, via email
MALTA, MALTA, MALTA! In the Feb. 27 edition of eFlyer USA, we discussed the increasingly popular tourist destination of Malta and the record number of North Americans flocking to the archipelago. A few readers wrote in from personal experience: I’ve been to Malta twice, both for business conferences. The first time was about 12 years ago, and I was amazed by the history and old fortifications. Two years ago we held a conference there for our European dealers, and they loved it. The guys from the Netherlands had never been there or even thought about it. After a few days at our Malta FaxCore conference, they said they would return with their spouses and children on holiday. The place is affordable, easy to get
SANDYE HOOK, via email
FLYING FRONTIER In a recent story featured on global travelerusa.com, one writer discussed the new concept of tipping flight attendants on Frontier Airlines. One reader wrote in with thoughts: While I always tip 18–20 percent when dining out in restaurants, I just don’t see the same level of service on Frontier as I do in a nice sit-down restaurant. I don’t require a lot of service on a flight and I don’t fly Frontier often, but I would be interested to see if the service improved on my next trip based on the new tipping concept. I can’t see this becoming a popular trend among airlines. BRITTNEY WELLS, via email
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PARTICIPATE IN VOTING Visit our website to vote for your favorites in the 2019 GT Tested Reader Survey.
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news Free Live TV on Select United Flights
United Airlines became one of the latest airlines to offer free live television on flights. More than half of its fleet of Boeing 737 aircraft, or 211 planes, will offer free live DIRECTV for all passengers. United used to offer this service for $5.99 for shorter flights and $7.99 for longer flights. For those who aren’t interested in live TV, United passengers can also still access up to 300 TV shows and movies via its entertainment portal, which can be streamed on personal devices such as laptops, tablets or smartphones. Travelers can learn whether their flight will offer free DIRECTV service up to 24 hours before departure by reviewing the flight status on United’s website or mobile app and searching for the DIRECTV logo under the list of in-flight amenities. Other domestic airlines providing such services include American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, JetBlue and Southwest. united.com
IN-FLIGHT WELLNESS SPARKS COMPETITION
PHOTOS: © CATWOMAN10 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © GAEST.COM
Airlines are in constant competition, usually for the latest technological amenities that put them ahead of their competitors and make air travel easier for their passengers. The latest impetus for such competition focuses on in-flight wellness: Airlines across the world find ways to implement wellness into the flying experience to enhance passengers’ comfort and level of sanity in a frequently stressful environment. Examples include Qantas’ guided meditation series, also available via virtual reality for passengers who download the Qantas VR app prior to boarding. Cathay Pacific offers yoga and meditation apps for download, and Hawaiian Airlines hosts guided in-flight stretching and breathing exercises. Elsewhere, Delta Air Lines introduced a meditation app called OMG. I Can Meditate, while American Airlines launched a similar app called Calm. The popular meditation app Headspace first partnered with Virgin Atlantic in 2011 but has since partnered with 10 other airlines including Air Canada, British Airways and United Airlines.
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Airbnb Purchases Space-Booking Company
Airbnb’s latest acquisition is a company that helps event planners and businesses find spaces to rent for hours or a full day. Danish company Gaest specializes in renting out spaces off-site for various corporate events or other short-term rental needs. Airbnb confirmed Gaest will retain its name and a separate host of services, at least for now. Meetings professionals consider the deal to reflect the growing interest in virtual meeting and venue bookings, while experts at Breather — a company that rents meeting spaces by the hour, day or week — anticipate 30 percent or more of urban office space will serve as short-term rentals for various business purposes in the next five to 10 years. Airbnb also sought partnerships with other space-rental companies for business purposes such as WeWork, a co-working brand that would allow Airbnb guests to purchase short-term passes for shared working space. airbnb.com gaest.com
APRIL 2019
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news Get Zen at HKG Cathay Pacific Lounge
With seven Cathay Pacific lounges at Hong Kong International Airport, it can be difficult to choose which one to visit. But The Pier lounge has a new amenity that can entice on-edge travelers. The Sanctuary, a 700-square-foot area within The Pier, further divides into The Body Sanctuary and The Mind Sanctuary. Visitors can use The Body Sanctuary for self-guided yoga practice, seated stretching and guided video yoga sessions. Next door in The Mind Sanctuary, antsy travelers can ease their minds via guided audio meditations or visual meditations, which involve sitting on a comfortable cushion and focusing on a single point in order to calm the mind, a practice known as trāt.ata. cathaypacific.com
Delta Expands at Raleigh-Durham
Delta Air Lines debuted two new routes out of Raleigh-Durham International Airport. The two new routes will travel to Pittsburgh (PIT) and New Orleans (MSY) beginning June 8, bringing Delta’s total number of non-stop destinations from RDU to 29. The round-trip Raleigh–Pittsburgh route will depart daily, catering to business travelers who hop between the two cities for work, while the New Orleans flight will only operate on Saturdays and Sundays, thus offering an easy weekend getaway destination for Raleigh-Durham locals. Delta’s expansion at RDU comes on the heels of the expansion of other airlines, such as Frontier and Spirit, which added a total of 15 new routes in January. delta.com BELLEVIEW INN
As part of Penn Station’s major makeover, Amtrak plans to revamp its ClubAcela lounge, branding it with a new name (the Metropolitan Lounge) and upgrading its amenities for rail travelers. Seats in the new lounge will have USB ports and electrical outlets, and meeting rooms will be firstcome, first-served for those who need a quieter atmosphere to take calls or review work before traveling. The lounge will offer a rotating menu of meals, snacks and drinks as well as free WiFi. The new Metropolitan Lounge is scheduled to open in early 2021 and will be available for Acela First Class passengers and members of the Amtrak Guest Rewards Select Plus and Select Executive programs. amtrak.com
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Luxury Hotels Offer Cultural Programming
Standard hotels often lack a true connection to the local community and the chance for guests to immerse themselves in the local culture, but some luxury hotel brands plan to change this by bringing the culture to guests. One example lies in Heckfield Place, a country estate one hour outside London that offers a program of rotating events called “The Assembly,” which includes talks with renowned local experts and even in-house culinary presentations and classes. Elsewhere, the Four Seasons: The Westcliff in Johannesburg, South Africa, hosts “Art on the Hill,” a continuous calendar of events for all types of local arts. In Barcelona, Casa Bonay’s ground floor features a multipurpose space that hosts independent films, local musicians and even yoga sessions. The overarching goal of these programs is to expose guests to an activity or knowledge they may not get from a traditional hotel stay.
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New Amtrak Lounge at New York’s Penn Station
deals & rewards Redeem Capital One Miles for U.S. Flights
Book AA Premium Economy with Miles
Since the debut of premium-economy seats in 2017, almost all American Airlines passengers enjoyed extra legroom, free drinks (including alcohol), two free checked bags and priority boarding. As of late January, AAdvantage members are finally able to use their hard-earned miles to enjoy the same perks. Approximate MileSAAver minimum redemption costs for popular destinations include the following: 15,000 miles to Alaska; 22,500 miles to Hawai’i; 30,000 miles to South America and Europe; 35,000 miles to most Asian countries; and 40,000 miles to the South Pacific. Members of American Airlines’ frequent-flyer program can log into their account and browse available seats via the site’s booking engine.
Members of Capital One’s travel rewards cards, such as the Venture card or the Spark Miles for Business card, can transfer miles to up to 14 frequent-flyer programs, but none of these include domestic airlines. However, there is a way to manage a transfer of miles to those domestic airlines not on the list. To use Capital One miles for U.S. flights, the best method is to transfer miles to an international frequent-flyer program and then use them for an American airline in the same alliance. One example is Avianca’s LifeMiles program in which points can be used for flights on United Airlines at a transfer ratio of 2:1.5. Etihad Guest and Qatar Privileges programs also can be used to transfer miles to American Airlines. Travelers who want to book with Alaska Airlines can go through Singapore Airlines’ KrisFlyer program and transfer miles at a 2:1 ratio. capitalone.com
aa.com
PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © CAPITAL ONE, © ALASKA AIRLINES
Marriott’s New Loyalty Program
Alaska Airlines Limits Miles Purchases When your mileage account is running low and you need to keep your frequent-flyer membership active, all it takes is the purchase of a few thousand miles to maintain your status. But Alaska Airlines now puts
a limit on the number of miles a member can purchase within a single year. In the past, Alaska limited the number of miles that can be purchased in an individual transaction, but this new limit applies to the number of miles that can be purchased per year. Members can purchase or gift up to 60,000 miles per transaction, but at a maximum of 150,000 miles per year. The new policy does not apply to those with elite status. alaskaair.com
The Starwood Preferred Guest Loyalty Program will soon be no more with the introduction of Bonvoy, a joint loyalty program from Marriott, SPG and The Ritz-Carlton. Members of these programs will see their points automatically roll over into Bonvoy. The only changes will involve earning points, redeeming points and changes to elite status. The Platinum Premier Elite level will change to the Marriott Bonvoy Titanium Elite, and the Platinum Premier Elite with Ambassador level will now be known as the Marriott Bonvoy Ambassador Elite tier. Marriott and SPG’s events programs will combine and be known collectively as Marriott Bonvoy Moments. As one program, Bonvoy encompasses 6,700 properties and more than 120 million members. meetmarriottbonvoy.marriott.com
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GT tested
W LOS ANGELES – WEST BEVERLY HILLS Reviewed by Marie Edwards
Arrival/Check-In: In an urban location within minutes of Rodeo Drive and UCLA and not too far from Venice Beach, W Los Angeles is surrounded by all the razzle-dazzle of L.A. yet in a quiet and convenient location offering easy access with a wide entry and an efficient lobby. You can check in, drop your bags and head straight to the Living Room Bar, STK Los Angeles or sit poolside at The Hideout, a brand-new outdoor dining experience. From the moment you arrive, you’ll feel the contemporary vibe and relaxed, well-organized tone similar to other W Hotels you’ve visited. Guest Quarters: I stayed in the Spectacular King Suite, perfect for me, as I was traveling on business. I entered the room into a spacious business center with an ample desk, easy access to power and room to work. Just off the business center, a comfortable lounge area offered a large sectional and chairs. The separate sleeping area featured a king-sized bed, with the W signature mattress, and a TV. The modern bath included a tiled shower and sink that was perfect for one guest. The room also featured a fully stocked W MixBar. I enjoyed the layout of the room and the ease with which I could work in a comfortable, sophisticated environment.
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◆ Equally enjoyable for business or leisure stays, the W Hotel is in a great location and practical for business needs. ◆ There is a great restaurant and a fun lounge area to visit with friends. ◆ This upscale, modern and relaxed hotel offers quick check-in and ease of getting around.
During my visit it was being refurbished, so I didn’t have an opportunity to visit this lovely outside area. It is, however, now complete and offers another great escape at the W Hotel. You can’t visit L.A. without getting some exercise; so if you need a workout, there is a FIT gym. If you have plans to visit L.A. for business or pleasure, keep The W Hotel in West Beverly Hills in mind for convenient, upscale accommodations.
W LOS ANGELES – WEST BEVERLY HILLS 930 Hilgard Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90024 tel 310 208 8765 marriott.com
PHOTOS: © W LOS ANGELES – WEST BEVERLY HILLS
Services/Amenities: The property offers several dining options. I had a fun evening with some famous people, which set the tone for my visit to L.A. We started in the Living Room Bar, a chic lounge offering several types of seating areas. Afterward we moved our conversation to STK for a fantastic dinner. To start, we shared a few tasty dishes which included market lettuce, heirloom beet and pear salad and tuna tartare. Our main courses included Mary’s organic chicken, flatiron Wagyu and branzino served with maple bacon sprouts, spicy broccoli and mac and cheese (a signature dish). While all of these dishes were incredible, the best part of the meal was dessert. We ordered The Cloud, a flaming cotton candy cloud which burns away to disclose secret sweets on the inside. In addition to the fabulous restaurants, the hotel offers five meeting/event rooms ranging from a boardroom to team-building activities to high-tech meeting space; event rooms are spacious enough to host a wedding. Guests can take advantage of the W’s signature Whatever/Whenever service. One of the nicest features is the outdoor area, The Hideout.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
GT tested
THE JOULE Reviewed by Carly Allen
PHOTOS: © THE JOULE, © CASEY DUNN / THE JOULE, © ERIC LAIGNEL / THE JOULE
Arrival/Check-In: I arrived in Dallas on a cloudy afternoon and, luckily, traffic was light as I drove my rental car into the city in just less than 30 minutes. The Joule, built in the 1920s in the Neo-Gothic style, is a city landmark sitting in the heart of the business district. The hotel’s valet awaited curbside and quickly gathered my luggage from the trunk and walked me through the art-filled lobby. Before booking this hotel, I was aware the property featured art installations throughout, but I was still delighted by the interesting art that was tastefully done for guests to experience. I was promptly greeted and checked in at the front desk in the middle of the lobby. The elevators, hidden toward the back, are accessed through a long corridor, but art lining the walls helps guide your way. Guest Quarters: My fifth-floor deluxe suite was exceptionally large for a one-bedroom suite. The entrance into the suite’s main living room features dark wood flooring and creamcolored walls. A large geometric-design rug sat under a full sectional couch and club chair facing a 47-inch, flat-screen television, all beneath a bold chandelier. I found myself sitting here most of my stay, watching a bit of sports and getting work done, although the desk was large, had plenty of electrical outlets and held a complimentary bottle of red wine and gourmet chocolates in a beautiful crystal jar. A king-sized bed with luxe Sferra sheets dominated the large bedroom. The side tables included extra outlets for charging; however, the touchscreen lighting control was not that intuitive and took me about five minutes to adjust to my liking. Full-length mirrors enclosed the large closet which held extra cushioned hangers (greatly appreciated) and a plush robe — all provided with a woman in mind! A large, flat-screen television sat across the room; low bookshelves ran around the entire room with Taschen art books and plenty of space for personal items. The bathroom, though located on the other side of the living room, was well worth the walk. All black and gray stone and marble, it included a large double sink, marble vanity with lots of open space and lighting surrounding the large mirrors. Amenities were Niven Morgan products especially crafted for The Joule. Enclosed in frosted glass, the rainfall shower offered seating for a full spa experience — one of the best showers I have experienced. Services/Amenities: If you are looking for spots to eat and drink, the property has it all. After a day of meetings, I recommend a casual cocktail at the Lobby Bar, surrounded by larger-than-life art. If you prefer a night out, the Midnight Rambler has a hot spot feel and is fun for a date. CBD Provisions, the on-property restaurant, features a modern twist on favorite Texas dishes and was a delight to try — so much so, I dined there for breakfast and dinner! I recommend the Little Gem lettuce and lump crab small plate and Berkshire pig head carnitas to share. For breakfast, the avocado toast and chai latte proved a
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ Guests can enjoy unique art installments and photography throughout the property. ◆ Top-notch shopping surrounds The Joule, with unique boutiques and a flagship Neiman Marcus.
perfect way to start my day. The property also boasts wellness areas including The Spa and a rooftop heated pool that stretches over Main Street. The hightech gym is open 24 hours, but I also suggest taking advantage of VITAL, a fitness studio on the property offering spinning, boxing and more — perfect for any traveler looking to keep workouts on schedule or trying something new.
◆ Dining and drinks on property are a must. Try CBD Provisions for dinner and a night out at Midnight Rambler. THE JOULE 1530 Main St. Dallas, TX 75201 tel 214 748 1300 www.thejouledallas.com
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GT tested
EGYPTAIR | BUSINESS CLASS
New York (JFK) to Cairo (CAI)
Reviewed by: Stephanie Makowski
Pre-Flight: We were seated in the first row, which offered additional room and, as advised by EgyptAir staff, would offer a quiet alternative to the back of the section where many families sat. Amenity kits, headphones, a bottle of water and pillow and blanket awaited at our seats. The seats were spacious and comfortable, and the staff took our coats to avoid wrinkles and arranged our bags above in the storage compartment. EgyptAir does not provide alcohol, but attendants greeted us with fresh juice options as we settled in. I chose the orange as it was approaching flu season, and any vitamin C boost is helpful. After takeoff, I found the navigation screen useful to keep track of the time and our location en route to Cairo.
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In-Flight: Each seat was equipped with a screen for onboard entertainment, and I enjoyed a great documentary about the Valley of the Kings and the pyramids. The visuals and information were inspiring and prepared me for our upcoming activities and meetings in Egypt. Other movies were available in English and Arabic for passengers to peruse. Our flight was in the evening, so we were served dinner right away. The flight attendants came around with a service cart and presented the options as each course was served. I would have liked to see a menu for review so I could know what was included in each dish, but the attendants answered most of my questions. EgyptAir offers culinary options for various religiousbased dietary restrictions or allergies; you just have to inform the staff before your flight. The meal itself was delicious; I enjoyed a delightful shrimp cocktail and selected the beef as my entrée. We finished the meal with coffee, a selection of cheeses and nuts and dessert. During our flight we experienced a terrifying bout of heavy turbulence. This sometimes happens while crossing the Atlantic, but Fran asked me if my seat belt was secure, so I knew my fear was justified. Luckily, we passed through safely. My hunger satisfied, I reclined my seat, which was almost completely flat, and enjoyed the soft blanket. The ceiling in the cabin was dimmed, and aisle lighting looked like the night sky full of stars. This encouraged a peaceful slumber, and I woke to breakfast being served before we reached Cairo. The breakfast was delicious, with our coffee accompanied by reading materials. Prior to landing we received a simple form to fill out for immigration. The experience was overall pleasant for an almost11-hour flight, and Egypt itself proved a magical destination of wonder and history.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ If you enjoy wine or Champagne on your flights, as I do, have no fear. Though EgyptAir does not sell alcohol on flights, you are permitted to purchase alcohol in the airport and bring it aboard. The staff can store it and serve it to you in flight. ◆ If you have dietary restrictions, it may be best to pre-request a menu so you are fully aware of the culinary features on your flight. There is no printed menu in business class. ◆ The staff provided clever stickers for each seat which passengers could use to inform crew of requests to be awakened for meals, not disturbed and so on. A great, simple add-on. EGYPTAIR egyptair.com
PHOTO: © ANDREW PERIAM - DREAMSTIME.COM
On the Ground: New York’s JFK Airport presented the usual hustle and bustle as I parked my vehicle, with Global Traveler CEO Francis X. Gallagher in the passenger seat. We were flying together to the Middle East, first stop Cairo, to meet with clients. Originally we planned to use off-site parking, but a heavy rainstorm altered our plans, and we parked in the covered garage near the International Terminal entrance. We collected our luggage and made our way to the EgyptAir check-in counter. Fran had checked us both in the evening prior, and the friendly EgyptAir staff greeted us, reviewed our destination and checked our bags quickly. We unfortunately did not have EgyptAir club access pre-flight but checked to be sure. We proceeded through security, which in JFK’s International Terminal turned into a game of ever-rolling bins without order and hastily making sure all our items were together in the end. At boarding time we were ushered to a separate line for priority seating; passing by the rest of the plane’s passengers, I noticed quite a few families and groups. We made our way onto the Boeing 777-300, where a pleasant flight attendant escorted us to our seats.
GT tested
ENTRADA ESCALANTE LODGE Reviewed by Angelique Platas
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ Visit during the high season when the weather is warm and days are longer so you can enjoy the lodge’s outdoor space, day or night. ◆ The lodge is located on the town’s main road and is in walking distance of a few great restaurants and taverns. ◆ Utah has strict ABV laws (most beer is 4 percent or less unless you ask for full-strength). ◆ Take advantage of the lodge’s great location, just a 15- to 30minute drive from most local hikes and about an hour from Bryce Canyon National Park.
PHOTOS: © ENTRADA ESCALANTE LODGE
Arrival/Check-In: My sister and I flew into Las Vegas (LAS) from Philadelphia (PHL) on a later flight, arriving at 8:30 p.m. Normally, this wouldn’t even be noteworthy, but on this trip I decided we would drive to Escalante, Utah, and check into our hotel the same night. After the five-hour ride, we finally arrived at our destination: Entrada Escalante Lodge. The hotel concierge had been kind enough to arrange for our keys and room number to be waiting for us, even with our (really) late arrival long after the lobby closed for the night. We grabbed our keys, parked in front of our lodge and passed out on the king-sized bed almost immediately — checking in was basically the easiest part of the trip at that point. Guest Quarters: In the morning I took a good look around our deluxe king room (Lodge No. 7) and was impressed with the size of the space. The lodge offered a full kitchen and dining area, outdoor space with a grill and patio furniture, a living room with a TV and queen-sized sofa sleeper, a king-sized bed, a full bathroom with a large shower and two showerheads, WiFi and plenty of room to unpack and get ready for a long day of hiking. I could see this space would lend itself well to an even
longer trip than our two days, as guests could load up the refrigerator with supplies, cook in the kitchen or on the grill, and dine in all weather conditions — all with unobstructed views of the mountains in the near distance. Service/Amenities: Within the lodge we found binders of information on the town, including local restaurants, tour opportunities and shops. The lobby offered complimentary tea and coffee in the morning with a slew of guides and material for daytrips and hikes in the area. Our lodge was clean and loaded with towels — white for showers and brown for anything needing Escalante’s red dirt removed — plus blankets, extra pillows and really anything we could need in terms of comfort. The lodge is set up like a self-serve kind of adventure where guests can come and go as they please while respecting the quiet hours observed by the lodge — 9 p.m.–7 a.m. Fill up on supplies in town and bring them back to the lodge and enjoy at your leisure.
ENTRADA ESCALANTE LODGE 480 W. Main St. P.O. BOX 427 Escalante, UT 84726 tel 435 826 4000 entradaescalante.com
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GT tested
THE RAPHAEL HOTEL Reviewed by Katie Skrzek
Guest Quarters: Our room on the seventh floor faced Country Club Plaza, also still decorated for the holiday. The room featured a comfy king bed, large desk with multiple outlets and a sitting area with a chair, small couch, minibar and television. The closet had a window, which I had never encountered. I thought this was a nice touch for looking at clothes in natural light. The easily-accessible WiFi is complimentary, which I always appreciate during a hotel stay. Despite being close to the elevator, we weren’t bothered by any noise. The bathroom sat across from the closet at the back of the room, which provided extra privacy. It boasted a combination shower and tub. The sink and vanity were located just outside of the bathroom door. The Raphael offers oversize towels. As someone with long hair, I appreciate this type of towel when
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drying my hair. We enjoyed turn-down service during our visit, complete with chocolates on the pillows. Services/Amenities: On the first night of our stay we stopped for a drink at the on-site bar and restaurant, Chaz on the Plaza. Kansas City boasts a lively jazz scene, and the bar hosts nightly live jazz performances. We enjoyed sipping our cocktails while listening to music. We also utilized the property’s 24-hour room service one night of our stay. We ordered a late-night burger after enjoying live music downtown. The service was swift and the burger was really tasty. As we indulged in plenty of Kansas City’s famous barbecue during our visit, we knew we wanted to make time for the gym. The property’s fitness center, located on the second floor, features several cardio machines, free weights, medicine balls and other equipment. There were plenty of towels, plus a basket of granola bars and a mini fridge stocked with water. You will need your room key to access the fitness center. Throughout the day The Raphael offers complimentary beverages in the lobby including coffee in the morning, fruitinfused water in the afternoon and hot chocolate and cookies in the evening. We enjoyed each of these options. We felt at home during our three-night stay. I would recommend a stay at The Raphael whether you’re visiting Kansas City for business or leisure.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ Stop by Chaz on the Plaza for a great weekday happy hour and nightly live jazz. ◆ Walk across the street to Country Club Plaza for shopping, dining and other entertainment options. ◆ Check The Raphael’s website before your stay for special offers. A Winter Blues Jazz deal kicked off just two days after our stay ended, which we were disappointed to miss. THE RAPHAEL HOTEL 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 64112 tel 816 756 3800 raphaelkc.com
PHOTOS: © KATIE SKRZEK
Arrival/Check-In: The Raphael Hotel has a prime location in Kansas City, Missouri, directly across the river from the popular shopping area, Country Club Plaza. My husband and I arrived ahead of check-in and our room was not quite ready, so we opted to visit a nearby museum. Shortly after we arrived at the museum, I received a call that our room was ready. Once back at the hotel, check-in was swift, and the friendly front desk attendant directed us toward the elevator closest to our room. We visited right after Christmas and the property was still decked out in holiday décor, which made our stay feel extrafestive.
New nonstop service to Bologna. Introducing the only new nonstop service to Bologna (BLQ) from Philadelphia International (PHL). This gateway to Tuscany offers a variety of things to do – from a hike to the top of San Luca or a stroll through Piazza Maggiore. Whatever you choose, the splendor of Bologna awaits. Book now at aa.com
American Airlines, Flagship and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. Š 2019 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.
one on one
M. İLKER AYCI Chairman of the Board and Executive Committee, Turkish Airlines
YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? We continually improve and innovate by investing heavily in R&D. We constantly, carefully review various results to determine aviation trends and consumer demands, with outcomes often finding their way into our products and services. In-flight entertainment will use the latest technologies, including augmented and virtual reality solutions, as well as improved content. Best career advice you’ve received: You must be patient and have perseverance to reach your goals. Be honest [with] yourself and others. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? This industry is competitive; you need to be flexible and not afraid to be a self-learner. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory: As I am newly married, we enjoy building new travel memories together while visiting museums and cultural epicenters around the world. One travel tip you cannot live without: Always be aware of experiences; travel light, but bring something home with you from your travels. Best advice for business travelers: Use the benefits of business-class lounges and onboard service.
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Tell us about your fleet, one of the youngest in the world. Currently we have 333 aircraft. With an average age of 8.2, it is indeed one of the youngest fleets in the world. We plan to reach a fleet size of 400 aircraft by 2021. Turkish Airlines ordered a total of 165 new-generation narrow-body, 60 new-generation wide-body (50 firm and 10 optional) and three wide-body cargo aircraft in recent years. New-generation aircraft such as the Boeing 787 Dreamliner and Airbus A350-900 will feature increased fuel efficiency and longer ranges that will allow us to reach even farther from our new home. What are your future plans? Where do you see Turkish Airlines 10 years from now? As the airline that flies to more countries than any other — we currently serve 306 destinations in 124 countries — we reached a new takeoff era with İstanbul Airport. We confidently move toward our 2023 goals — a 500-aircraft fleet and a 4 percent share in global aviation. With our young and modern fleet, ever-expanding flight network and our commitment to customer satisfaction, we will continue to outpace our rivals. According to forecasts from respected aviation institutions, the center of gravity in world aviation is shifting from the West to the East, following the path of economic activity. The urbanization and access to air travel in developing Asian countries are increasing, and we would like to be ready to meet the future demand. The air traffic passing through İstanbul is expected to increase by 2.6 times in the next 20 years. We are perfectly positioned to take a significant share of the expected traffic. Turkish Airlines aims to be the best in the world by being the airline of choice for our passengers and claiming a place in their hearts. That is our most coveted goal.
PHOTO: © TURKISH AIRLINES
Name: M. İlker Aycı Title: Chairman of the board and executive committee Company, city: Turkish Airlines; İstanbul, Turkey Number of employees: Approximately 51,000, including subsidiaries Recent project: Bringing all our developing technology within Turkish Airlines to create a seamless experience, from using AI in our reservation system to fullservice enhancements at the airport First job: Right out of university, I worked for the İstanbul metropolitan government as a consultant for the mayor. Little-known fact about you: I enjoy learning about the unique cultures, from gastronomy to history and mythology, of the places I visit around the world.
ABOUT YOUR BRAND İstanbul’s new airport is now open; tell our readers more about the new facility. İstanbul Airport is a monumental project we will use as a base to further expand our footprint on a global scale. Its capacity, 200 million passengers per year when all stages are complete, will be the world’s largest. For Turkish Airlines, İstanbul Airport removes the capacity constraints of our current airport and slot caps that limit our network extension. We will be able to increase frequency and add new routes while giving our passengers a completely redefined travel experience with our new exclusive lounges — three will be available at İstanbul Airport. Travel through İstanbul Airport will be a breeze thanks to the superbly laid-out terminal, designed from the ground up to offer a seamless experience for travelers using the latest technologies and innovations. It will transform the way we travel. Playing the central role in our future growth strategy, it will have an enormous effect on the numbers of our domestic and international-tointernational passengers. The megaproject will be launched in four phases, with the final phase set to complete in 2028. In all, the complex will boast six runways, two terminals and 233 aircraft parking positions; more than 500 check-in desks; and 225,000 employees.
W ELCOME
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Experience the newly redesigned rooms, suites and villas complemented by residential comfort, contemporary furnishings and legendary Peninsula service.
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T E L : + 1 310 5 51 2 8 8 8
E-MAIL: PBH@PENINSULA.COM
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one on one
DEREK DECROSS Senior Vice President, Global Sales, InterContinental Hotels Group
Name: Derek DeCross Title: Senior vice president, global sales Company, city: InterContinental Hotels Group; Atlanta, Georgia Number of employees: 375,000 at 5,500 hotels and corporate offices around the world Recent project: We celebrated reaching the milestone of 200 InterContinental Hotels and Resorts open around the world. First job: Unpaid? Probably pulling weeds for my mom. Paid? I was a cook and a carhop at a Sonic Drive-In at age 15. Little-known fact about you: My first hotel job was playing piano in lobbies and bars.
ABOUT YOUR BRAND IHG Business Edge launched in August 2018. Tell our readers about the program. IHG Business Edge is designed for small and midsized enterprises (SMEs) built by SMEs. A few years ago we asked real SME customers to tell us what they look for in a hotel program and checked in with them through various stages of development, pilot and launch to keep us on track to creating something uniquely different in the travel space. What resulted is a comprehensive selfservice hotel program that streamlines the travel buying process and rewards SME travel managers and travelers every time they stay at more than 5,500 IHG hotels globally.
YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Like every industry, the hotel business considers the best ways to leverage technology to serve our customers. We are in the hospitality business, so we will never lose the human interactions at the heart of our service, but we will use technology in new and different ways to enhance and personalize the guest experience throughout the travel journey. We’ll also continue to see new brands and the evolution of existing brands to meet the changing preferences of travelers. At IHG, we’re investing further in growing our presence in the luxury segment. We relaunched our recently acquired Regent Hotels and Resorts brand, celebrated the 200th opening of an InterContinental Hotels and Resorts property and will open our first Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants location in Asia this year. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Be curious and never stop learning. Build strong relationships across your company and with partners, as they will greatly enhance your impact and the speed of your impact. Remember, you’re either serving the customer or someone else who is. Regardless whom you serve, do it with purpose, passion and pride. Choose to have a positive attitude regardless of challenges you face.
What stood out among the insights received through customer feedback? We realized the importance of striking a balance between providing benefits for those responsible for managing travel and those actually traveling. Often they can be one and the same, but it became evident that SMEs are an incredibly diverse group with varying needs and expectations, especially when you incorporate input from different regions globally. They look for more than a discount, so we had to dig deep to develop benefits that drive tangible value to many different types of SME customers, their internal stakeholders and their travelers.
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What perks are associated with the IHG Business Edge community? What most distinguishes IHG Business Edge is that it’s not simply a hotel discount program. Members of the community receive expedited loyalty status in IHG Rewards Club, a customized company portal featuring curated content designed to support them in their unique role, a spending and savings dashboard to help them manage travel expenses, and the ability to engage with other businesses on topics most relevant to them right in their portal. They still get the competitive discount, but they’re really gaining a holistic business travel resource.
PHOTO: © DEREK DECROSS
AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: My earliest travel memory was when I was 3 and took my first nonrevenue flight (my dad spent his career at Delta Air Lines) on a Boeing 747 between DFW and ATL. Other great memories include extended family trips to Scotland and Costa Rica. But as much as every trip is wonderful in its own way, any trip to Italy alone with my wife is simply magical. One travel tip you cannot live without: I’m on the road fairly often; and since my first child was born, I’m the lightest sleeper you can imagine, so I’m a big believer in my white noise app to provide a consistent background for sleeping. Makes a big difference! Best advice for business travelers: While travel can be tiring, it is a wonderful privilege that shrinks the globe, enables commerce, bridges cultures and brings loved ones together. Always remember how fortunate you are to see the world, and in the rush of business meetings, conferences and deal making, take time to experience the local culture. Rather than thinking of it as a grind, see it as a beautiful opportunity to experience life.
Enjoy more places. And how you get there. oneworld® member airlines connect you to more than 1,000 destinations in 150 countries. Exploring the world has never been easier. If you’re planning to visit three, four, five or more continents in a single trip, booking a oneworld Explorer fare is the simpler way to travel around the world. Select routes, plan stopovers, and book your itinerary by searching global travel options that fit your needs. Learn how you can travel bright at oneworld.com.
technology
EFFICIENCY EXPERTS Get the most out of devices designed to optimize performance. BY JACK GUY
HALO SPORT 2 Bluetooth headphones are fast becoming the new standard, but the Halo Sport 2 model boasts a special feature. By passing a small electric current through a series of soft protrusions in the headset, Halo promises to stimulate the area of the brain associated with movement and help you learn new skills faster. Scientists and leading athletes back the concept, known as neuropriming. Plus, it’s not just sporty types who can benefit; the effect is the same for learning an instrument or a language. $299. haloneuro.com
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ECOBEE4 Smart thermostats not only help you lower heating and cooling costs, but they are also more environmentally friendly. The ecobee4 pioneers a new generation and provides all-around comfort. Its room sensor reads the temperature and occupancy level in various rooms of the house and adjusts accordingly. Alexa Voice Service is built in, allowing users to perform many of the same functions from their thermostat; you can hear and speak to it from across a space. Its mobile app lets you control it from the room, and its ENERGY STAR certification saves around 23 percent in heating and cooling costs yearly. Good for users and for the planet. $249. ecobee.com
RYLO 360 VIDEO CAMERA Many people carry around a great camera with them every day, built into their smartphone. To stand out from the crowd, get your hands on a 360-degree camera like this Rylo model. It captures immersive video in an impressive 5.8K resolution and boasts built-in stabilization technology for smoother shots. Shoot away and then attach your phone with the bundled sync cable so you can watch, edit and upload your videos to share them with family and friends. Get yourself a water-resistant Adventure Case, and it will be ready to travel on even the most rugged trips. $499. rylo.com
PHOTOS: © SAMSUNG, © HALO, © ECOBEE, © RYLO
SAMSUNG UN49NU8000 SMART LED TV If you want to join the growing number of consumers switching to cable-free TV, the Samsung HD Smart LED TV is one of the best options on the market. With this 49-inch, 4K Ultra HD TV, you’ll get access to Netflix, YouTube, Amazon Instant Video, HBO Go, Hulu, Vudu and Spotify, among others, and enjoy voice control thanks to the Bixby assistant. In addition, the picture quality is as good as you’d expect from 4K — and it’s stylishly designed, too. $999. samsung.com
wine & spirits
A FAMILY PASSION A third generation of winemakers leads Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine. BY EUNICE FRIED THEY ARE THE THIRD GENERATION to lead Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine, the winery named for their family and started in Italy’s Veneto region in 1925. And they are determined to make their wines as well-known in the United States as they are in their home country. The winery produces about 1.5 million cases of wine each year, much of which it exports to 50 countries. Since taking over control of Pasqua in 2014, the members of the third generation have worked to put a fresh face on Pasqua wines in America. Tasting the wines at a luncheon with two of the third generation, brothers Alessandro and Riccardo, I asked why the first two Pasqua wines served carry the sub-label Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento. “Because Verona is in the Veneto, and so many people who come to Verona want to see Juliet’s balcony,” Riccardo said. The tale of Romeo and Juliet is considered a most romantic story, and indeed, a house with a balcony in Verona claims to be Juliet’s home and the inspiration for Shakespeare. Today it inspires thousands of visitors to leave love notes at the site. Whether it was Juliet’s balcony or, more likely, wasn’t, the two wines we tasted under that label were excellent and well-priced. The Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento Bianco Veneto 2017 ($16) proved a charming, flavorful wine, made of the Garganega grape with hints of peach and other beguiling flavors and a lingering finish — a perfect aperitif. The Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento Rosso Veneto 2016 ($16), a blend of 40 percent Merlot plus Corvino and Croatina, tasted spicy, graceful, berryish and round. Famiglia Pasqua Amarone Della Valpolicella 2013 ($46), particularly dark-shaded, presented a full-bodied wine with hints of leather in its deep, rich taste. And Mai Dire Mai Valpolicella 2013 ($46) was especially forward and full-flavored, in all, an excellent wine. We finished with Mai Dire Mai Amarone Della Valpolicella 2011 ($100), an opulent, well-structured wine with a fascinating complexity. Clearly, the third generation of Pasqua is on the right track.
QUEST FOR EXCELLENCE: Riccardo, Umberto and Alessandro Pasqua (top); Pasqua Cellar (bottom); and Romeo & Juliet red blend (right) PHOTOS: © PASQUA
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WHERE YOU WANT TO BE
Luxury All-Inclusive | Oversized Suites | 5-Star Dining | Adults-Only Royal Service | Family Concierge | Yhi Spa Life Enriching Experiences | Non-Motorized Water Sports | Fitness Programs | Romance by Paradisus | Meetings & Incentives P a r a d i s u s P a l m a Re a l | P a r a d i s u s P u n t a C a n a | T h e G r a n d Re s e r v e a t P a r a d i s u s P a l m a Re a l Paradisus Playa del Carmen | Paradisus Cancun | Paradisus Los Cabos | Paradisus Playa Mujeres (Coming 2019)
For more information, contac t your preferre d Tour Op erator, 1 . 8 8 8 . 74 1 . 5 6 0 0 o r P A R A D I S U S . C O M
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
PARADISUS RESORTS, GREEN INITIATIVES WITH THE WELFARE of the environment in mind, the Soap for Hope program in the Dominican Republic brings recyclable soaps to the local community and reduces hotel waste. Hundreds of pounds of used soap were collected from each Paradisus Dominican Republic property, then sanitized and made into new soap. This program allows hotels to reduce waste, teach the local community the soap production process and save lives through hygiene education. Since its start in September 2018, Paradisus resorts delivered approximately 2,000 soaps to local communities in need. Paradisus Playa Mujeres - Opening 2019
AS THE LEADER in luxury all-inclusive resorts, Paradisus By Meliá has made strides to incorporate green initiatives, locally and globally, through corporate social responsibility programs. Paradisus by Melia is committed to environmentally conscious initiatives and sustainable programs. Every opportunity where Paradisus By Meliá can include its guests in this mission is a win for the organization and world. WITH PROPERTIES IN the Dominican Republic and Mexico, Paradisus By Meliá implemented the brand-wide initiative of eliminating single-use plastics from the portfolio. This change in all Meliá Hotel International properties includes plastic bottles, cups, bags, straws and coasters in more than 370 hotels across more than 40 countries. A change like this is the first step in the domino effect of making an advance for a cleaner world. IN ADDITION TO reducing the amount of plastic at each property, Paradisus By Meliá is committed to going paperless in all guestrooms. In place of paper materials, a digital directory will be available via the room’s TV and will include important numbers, activities, FAQs, menus and more.
The Grand Reserve at Paradisus Palma Real
FURTHERMORE, THE PARADISUS Los Cabos property is taking the wildlife that calls the Los Cabos region home into special consideration with the Welcome to Life project. This initiative looks to protect endangered wildlife, primarily the Least Tern bird and local Leatherhead, Black and Olive Ridley sea turtles, and educate guests through a conservation program. As one of the only three hotels in the region authorized to host a sea turtle conservation program, Paradisus Los Cabos provides guests with an enriching experience. From GPS setting for adult turtle arrival to watching babies released, there is a way for each guest to get involved in the conservation process.
Paradisus Palma Real
wealth
THE PAY-OFF Student loan debt continues to rise.
The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice. Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.
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PHOTO: © FLYNT - DREAMSTIME.COM
STUDENT LOAN DEBT IN 2019 reached the highest level ever. According to Forbes, more than 44 million borrowers collectively owe more than $1.5 trillion in student loan debt in the United States alone. Student loan debt now represents the highest consumer debt category, behind only mortgage debt, and is higher than both credit cards and auto loans. Borrowers in the class of 2017, on average, owe $28,650 according to the Institute for College Access and Success. Even more distressing, more than 2.5 million borrowers have student loan debt greater than $100,000, with 610,000 of that total holding student loan debt greater than $200,000. Interestingly, the highest increase in student loan debt is among 30- to 39-year-olds, which translates to these individuals going to school if they haven’t previously or going back to school to perhaps change occupations or earn an advanced degree.
As workers hold more debt and feel the crunch, could it be a reason younger individuals don’t stay in jobs as long as some of their predecessors? They continue to jump ship for higher offers because their student loan debt is strangling them. It is not uncommon for young employees to use 15 percent or more of their take-home pay toward student loan obligations. According to a University of Michigan survey, younger adults (those under age 35) reduced their spending compared with previous generations. This could be due to weakened job prospects, delayed marriage and educational debt. Lower consumer spending limits economic growth; this massive debt impacts not only the borrowers but also the future of our economy. There is talk of assisting those in need and forgiving some or all student loan debt. Certain jobs and certain fields also offer debt forgiveness. Doing some research may lead to valuable insight and assist those in need. If you carry student loan debt, one would hope those funds allowed you to get into the career you wanted. Usually the return on the investment is worth it, even if it feels as though you are not making progress on a monthly basis. Remember, paying these debts on time is important so you don’t negatively impact your credit score. Don’t panic if you have trouble making payments because of unemployment, health problems or other unexpected financial challenges. Contact your lender immediately; you have options for managing your federal student loans such as through deferments and forbearance.
tours
BREATH OF FRESH AIR Gain new perspectives when you explore your destination’s green spaces.
FOLLOW THE GUIDEBOOKS in your next destination and they will likely have you pound the pavement in an effort to uncover the hottest of the crowded restaurants or the priciest of the charming boutiques without even breaking a sweat. While there’s something to be said for shopping locally and supporting small businesses, cities often go only partially explored when visitors stick to the concrete pathways and brick-and-mortar establishments within their borders. A destination’s green spaces are often the lifeblood of the city, acting as a place where locals and visitors can breathe in fresh air, commune with nature and maybe even embark on an adventure or two. Green spaces are becoming essential for urban environments, generally funded and maintained by the city in an effort to help filter urban pollutants while improving overall well-being and quality of life. Tour operators and hotels get behind these spaces in a big way by offering unique experiences for visitors and guests to get out in the open air and see the city in a different light. In Florida, World of Hyatt loyalty members can use their points to book bespoke experiences in the wilderness with a guided hike through an oldgrowth forest outside Pembroke Pines through Hyatt’s new FIND experience platform. The platform recently launched in cities around the world with exciting tours and experiences to encourage Hyatt guests to get out and explore more of their destinations. “These immersive local experiences speak to various facets of well-being and encourage members to feel at their best while enhancing the mind, body and spirit,” said Amy Weinberg, senior vice president, World of Hyatt. “Members are able to earn and redeem World of Hyatt points by partaking in these authentic, exclusive experiences that encourage travelers to adventure into the beauty and nature that surrounds their destination, whether that’s in their home market or where they travel.” In New York City, visitors can indulge in a hearty, farm-fresh breakfast at The Bar Downstairs and Kitchen at Andaz 5th Avenue in Midtown Manhattan and then be transported moments later into the pristine waterways of Cold Spring Harbor for a guided kayak trip through a beautiful landscape. Other options include taking a guided hike with Ambassador Wolves in Frazier Park, California, or enjoying a meditative walk through nature with a forest therapy guide in Chicago, Illinois. Lynott Tours offers insights into some of Ireland’s and the United Kingdom’s best gardens, including tours through Ardkinglas Woodland Garden and Crarae in Scotland and the famous Chelsea Flower Show in England. The Old Town Trolley sightseeing tour in Boston drops passengers off at the Boston Common for a chance to wander around the nation’s oldest city park, and many other parks around the world are free and open for visitors to stop and smell the flowers while exploring on self-guided, self-paced tours.
BY KRISTY ALPERT
COMMUNE WITH NATURE:
Chelsea Flower Show in London (top), and practicing yoga in the Redwood Forest through the World of Hyatt’s FIND program PHOTOS: © LONDONGAL27 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © WORLD OF HYATT
platform erience p x e D e guideFIN eyond th Hyatt’s b f o o g o ld t r e world, Wo members ts of th y r lt a a p y e lo r lo allows eply exp acticing more de ia to pr o d t o b s k m o a o b ugh C ing thro t. from bik d Fores Redwoo e h t in yoga
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2019 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.
HOTEL BEST
Best Individual Hotel in the World ________________________________________________ International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________
AIRLINE BEST
Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers__________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class___________________________________________________________________ International First Class_________________________________________________________ Domestic First Class_____________________________________________________________ Onboard Service ________________________________________________________________ Lounges _________________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendants________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms ______________________________________________________ Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________ Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_______________________________________________________________ Award Redemption______________________________________________________________ Customer Service _______________________________________________________________
HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ South Korea___________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________ The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________
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AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ South America___________________________________________________________________
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spas
HEALING WISDOM Soothe mind, body and spirit at Aspira Spa at Wisconsin’s Osthoff Resort. BY BRANDON SCHULTZ
TRANSCENDENCE: Meditation Sanctuary
PHOTO: © ASPIRA SPA
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I NEVER CONSIDERED WISCONSIN a top spa destination, and that’s certainly not why I visited the small resort town of Elkhart Lake, just below the peninsula between Green Bay and the rest of Lake Michigan, but an afternoon at Aspira Spa challenged me — and not just about this one blip of ignorance. The Potawatomi Indians named the region for the shape of its lake (yes, the shape of an elk heart) and believed the sacred waters were imbued with healing powers. In 1885 Otto and Paulina Osthoff relocated to the area after Paulina suffered a nervous breakdown and required a change in scenery from bustling Milwaukee. Paulina recovered, and the Osthoffs later built a resort that remains today the premier accommodation of the region. The eponymous Osthoff Resort, a consistent AAA Four Diamond Award recipient, is hyper-focused on encouraging a wellness experience that proves, intentionally or not, a fitting tribute to Paulina Osthoff’s recovery more than 130 years ago. Aspira Spa sits at the heart of its holistic approach.
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Aspira, meaning “infused with spirit,” combines Eastern ideals of energy and design with the healing wisdom of indigenous peoples in an organic approach to wellness, and I was transported from the moment I entered. While the resort featured plenty of long, straight hallways, my path to the spa’s lounge incorporated no corners at all. Aspira was designed as three concentric rings, following principles of feng shui that were never more evident than in the Meditation Sanctuary where I awaited my treatment. Here, in a transcendent, round room lit only by a ring of candles surrounding a central copper pool fed by a trickling rock waterfall, I began to lose any sense of time or place among the five basic Chinese elements (earth, fire, water, metal and wood), freeing mental space for focus on my own wellness. As much as I love a traditional Swedish massage, I try to choose unique treatments whenever they’re offered. Aspira’s vast menu includes Moroccan hot oil, lomi lomi, yin yang, chakra balancing and a host of other mindful options. The spa even offers Vichy showers
and North America’s only chromotherapy spa tub, combining light and sound therapy with an immersive treatment. I chose the signature Cedars Massage and took my place on a table next to a crackling fire, ready for an 80-minute treatment promising relaxation and balance through tranquil massage with the aromatherapy of Elkhart Lake’s native cedars, revered by the Potawatomi. For about an hour, my therapist lulled me to a place of distant reverie before cocooning me with cedar under a heavy blanket. I was relieved I didn’t feel claustrophobic or even hot while wrapped so snugly, lying next to a fire, and I enjoyed the light pressure she applied to points across my face and head, completing my rebalancing. And then I felt absolutely nothing. Tightly swaddled and unable to see or touch anything, I became keenly aware of the stillness around me. When I no longer sensed the touch of my therapist for what felt like minutes, I wondered if I had been left alone, possibly to reflect or meditate. This hadn’t been mentioned in the description or in the pre-treatment assessment, so I was slightly confused by my abandonment. Until I began to tingle. Slowly, my arms and legs began to awaken, with a somewhat electric sensation moving clockwise around my body, limb by limb. Oddly, I still couldn’t register any physical touch, and this baffled me as I inwardly debated whether I was experiencing some sort of treatment, just going numb in an orderly fashion or completely inventing the entire situation out of sensory deprivation. When the session ended, I was so bewildered I sheepishly asked my therapist whether or not she had left me alone for the last 20 minutes, without explaining what I felt or why I was asking. She hadn’t left. Trained in Japanese reiki, she had been passing energy through my body, one area at a time, without physically touching me. If I had known ahead of time she would be doing this, I would have had my doubts about the technique; and if I even went through with it, I would have assumed I psychologically invented the sensations. Instead, I know now what I felt was genuine and an unexpected benefit of a spa with therapists who go beyond the traditional and embrace the ancient. Reiki wasn’t part of my treatment, but my therapist sensed I could use it. I believe she was right.
NATURAL APPROACH: Cedar massage
PHOTO: © ASPIRA SPA
s of Spa ica r Ame d ke ran a Spa ir he Asp in t tes, 2 . No Sta ted nic i n U ga Or zine and aga M Spa nized og rec for l pa s ta e th men n o r i p env rdshi ble a a w n ste ustai s and ices. ct pra
After a steam in the sauna, I sauntered to Spa Café, an exclusive bistro available only to guests of the spa, with a meticulously crafted wellness menu supplied by the resort’s organic gardens. I never made it to the yoga classes in the spa’s quiet studio, but I felt so newly connected to my body through the incredible intuition of my skilled therapist and the insightful facilities throughout Aspira that I didn’t regret my decision to take the rest of my efforts outdoors, on the lake itself. There I kayaked and hydro-biked my way into a perfectly restful weekend of wellness surrounded by the tranquil beauty of Elkhart Lake.
Aspira Spa The Osthoff Resort 101 Osthoff Ave. Elkhart Lake, WI 53020 tel 920 876 5843 aspiraspa.com osthoff.com
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chefs
FORWARD-THINKING Chef Tom Kerridge curates a fresh approach to memorable dining at Corinthia Hotel London. BY KIMBERLY KROL RENOWNED MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF Tom Kerridge opened his first London restaurant in September 2018 at Corinthia Hotel London. Open all day, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill boasts a relaxed, brasseriestyle dining room designed to attract both Londoners and visitors. Both Kerridge and Corinthia Hotel London bring a modern, forwardthinking approach to hospitality. David Collins Studio updated the interior design to feature leather dining chairs, button-backed banquettes, personally selected artwork and a dark green and burgundy color palette. A rotisserie bar prepares meat, fish and select vegetables in front of diners. A private dining room and a separate bar area round out the stylish restaurant. Kerridge opened The Hand and Flowers in 2005, the first pub to receive two Michelin stars, still held today. In 2014 he opened The Coach, which received its Michelin star in 2017. One can only assume a star may be in Kerridge’s Bar & Grill’s future.
WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Marco Pierre White, the first British chef to win three Michelin stars and someone who really kicked off the food industry. A lot of chefs my age wouldn’t be where we are without him. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? It’s difficult to pick one particular person, as through a career path as a chef you pick up a little bit of something from
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each person you meet along the way, creating your own style and path. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Obviously, I’m going to say London — not only to eat the best of British but so many great cuisines from around the world — whether Japanese, English, Spanish, Thai or even Peruvian. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? There is a huge movement at the minute toward vegetables and growing your own. I think a more vegetable-driven style will perhaps become more mainstream — I don’t mean protein-free, but perhaps the vegetable being the central part of the dish with the protein secondary, as it is right now. CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON Whitehall Place Westminster London SW1A 2BD United Kingdom tel 44 20 7930 8181 corinthia.com
PHOTO: © CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON
WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I’ve been lucky as a chef to have traveled and seen some quite eclectic and amazing food scenes around the world. Some of the finest [are] in New York, Hong Kong and Singapore, but there are many more I would like to see. The one thing it does do is remind me how great the British food scene is and the producers that work so hard and tirelessly and help drive the food scene forward.
W E L C O M E TO OUR BOUT IQUE H OT E L I N T H E A I R. DI S C OV E R O U R N E W B U S I N E S S C L A S S F O R I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L F L IG H T S .
BRUSSELSAIRLINES.COM/BUSINESS
cruising
EXCEPTIONAL EXPEDITIONS Embark on cold-water adventures aboard Hurtigruten’s sustainable ships.
FOR PASSENGERS DRAWN TO cold-water sailing, from the Arctic to Antarctica, and those who delight in exploring as well as cruising, Hurtigruten (although not well-known in North America) is the byword. Since 1893 Hurtigruten carried passengers as well as mail and other shipping commodities up and down the icy, fjordlaced Atlantic coast of Norway, and recently the line branched out into full-fledged expedition cruising at a time when this has become the hottest trend in the industry. Nearly half of the new ships to be launched this year by cruise lines worldwide are smaller craft dedicated to adventurous explorations at sea. Hurtigruten, which bills itself as “the world’s largest expedition cruise operator,” keeps pace in a number of ways. Employing 11 coastal ships and five expedition liners, Hurtigruten calls on 250 ports annually. Cruises concentrate on the line’s well-established routes in Norway, Iceland, Greenland, Canada’s High Arctic and Antarctica, but some explore warmer waters in the Caribbean and Central and South America. Wherever it sails, Hurtigruten’s emphasis squarely sits on expedition and adventure rather than Broadway shows, bumper cars and butler service, but it still offers facilities and services at a premium level. This is underscored by the introduction this year of Hurtigruten’s first new expedition ship in a line of 530-passenger ice-breaking vessels, the MS Roald Amundsen. The Amundsen provides a high level of accommodations (60 percent with balconies, 20 percent qualifying as suites); services (teams of expert English-
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BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER
speaking guides); and facilities that include a science center, three restaurants, indoor-outdoor observation decks, a running track, infinity pool, gym and sauna — even a stock of rubber boots for bracing adventures ashore. In addition, the MS Roald Amundsen is positively green. Sustainability and environmental preservation have long been the hallmarks of Hurtigruten’s approach to expedition cruising. The line banned all single-use plastics and is replacing all its older ship engines with propulsion systems relying on liquid natural gas and liquid biogas. Its new generation of ships goes a step further. The Rolls-Roycedesigned Amundsen is a sort of Prius at sea, a hybrid cruise ship that relies on batteries as well as cleaner fuels. Its batteries, large enough to fill two 600-square-foot halls in the hull, deliver enough power to be the sole fuel source for runs of 30 to 45 minutes. Overall, this diesel/electric propulsion system saves 20 percent on fuel consumption and emissions. The MS Roald Amundsen, slated to ply Hurtigruten’s newest destination, Alaska, will sail its inaugural cruise on an 18-day, Sept. 10 itinerary from Nome to Vancouver. In 2020 it will conduct seven exceptionally lengthy 14- to 18-day cruises in Alaskan waters. While a 530-passenger ship is large by expedition standards, Hurtigruten’s newest venture intends to lower the fares for adventure sailing and thereby open up expedition cruising to more passengers. For those seeking something beyond the usual big-ship, familiardestination cruise, Hurtigruten offers the cold-water alternative.
SMOOTH SAILING:
The hybrid MS Roald Amundsen at sea (left); and (right, top to bottom) its sauna, observation deck and science center PHOTOS: © HURTIGRUTEN
en’s igrut Hurt rn he Nort s Light e is Prom ees ant guar ht up to lig s on kie the s day 2its 1 cruises r e wint y— orwa rs in N e sseng or pa cond se get a (and e c chan ee. e) fr s i cru
the future of Expedition Travel
World Leader in Exploration Travel
Discover Antarctica aboard the world’s first hybrid electric–powered cruise ships
Hurtigruten expeditions challenge perceptions and appeal to those who value meaningful life experiences, knowledge, and personal growth. You’ll find that Hurtigruten offers authentic, immersive experiences for those seeking to connect with their inner explorer. You can engage in active adventures—snowshoe across snowy plains, hike to a penguin colony, and kayak among icebergs. And discover Antarctica alongside expedition team members who will share their expertise and passion, and deepen your understanding of this fascinating, fragile environment.
MS ROALD AMUNDSEN & MS FRIDTJOF NANSEN Our hybrid electric–powered ships feature cutting-edge technology that will reduce emissions by 20 percent, minimizing the impact of our operations to help preserve the natural wonders that we visit. Join us as we usher in a new era of sustainable expedition travel!
Learn more at Hurtigruten.com or call us at +1 (866) 538-3339
feature
Greening Up The concept of sustainability broadens for the world’s airlines, airports and hotels.
ZERO-EMISSION, ELECTRICALLY powered commercial aircraft are still mostly sketches on the drawing board, but in many other ways the green future already arrived as travelers pass through the world’s airports, travel the world’s airlines and move between hotels where sustainability is no longer viewed as a novelty but as an economic necessity. “It’s the aviation industry that is leading this effort for the built environment,” says Pat Askew, principal and aviation director, HKS, an architectural firm which designs airports around the world, including the ongoing renovation of Terminal 1 at San Francisco International Airport. “Every airport terminal is being designed now to be environmentally conscious and responsible.” Travelers might expect the Galápagos Ecological Airport, built in 2012, to be eco-friendly, and indeed the gateway to the abundant but fragile wildlife and natural beauty of the Galápagos Islands gets all its power from solar and wind energy sources. But it’s just one of 44 airports worldwide achieving carbon-neutral status, according to the 2017–2018 annual report from Airport Council International’s Airport Carbon Accreditation program. Of these, Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport represents the only fully carbon-neutral airport in the United States: The world’s fourth-busiest airport reduced its carbon emissions by 29 percent 2010– 2017 and cut its energy use by 38 percent, despite a 15 percent increase in the number of passengers in the same period. Lighting, heating and cooling comprise a huge part of an airport’s energy bill, and DFW cut its spending nearly in half through steps such as using technology to
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PHOTO: © VKOLETIC - DREAMSTIME.COM
BY BOB CURLEY
GOING GREEN:
Singapore Changi Airport’s Green Wall (top), Dallas/Fort Worth Terminal D (middle), and Oslo Airport (bottom) PHOTOS: © SINGAPORE CHANGI AIRPORT, © DALLAS FORT WORTH, © AVINOR - NORDIC OFFICE OF ARCHITECTURE - IVAN BRODERY
constantly monitor and adjust its climate-control system based on factors like passenger loads and time of day. It circulates cold water through pipes in terminals in the evening rather than running the air-conditioning system all night. Not just big airports buy into leaner, greener operations: TAG Farnborough Airport, a private business airport in the suburbs of London, became the first certified carbon-neutral airport in the world in 2018, according to the Airport Carbon Accreditation program. As at other eco-friendly airports, converting incandescent and other energy-hungry lighting to low-powered LEDs played a large part in the airport’s offsetting its carbon output. Other major steps include the use of electric vehicles in ground operations and giving workers bicycles to travel between buildings. New airport projects also are built with sustainability in mind. The renovated Terminal 4 at Singapore Changi Airport, for example, has literally gone green with a wall covered in more than 100,000 plants. Expanded to four times its original size in January 2018, the Green Wall serves as natural and functional art: The mist watering system helps maintain the temperature inside the terminal. Not only is the newly expanded terminal at Oslo Airport built with recycled steel, it also draws on Norway’s chilly climate by storing snow in the winter to be used as a coolant in the summer. Terminal 1 at SFO, slated for completion in 2022, proves another good example of how airports build with energy efficiency and environmentally sound practices as well as traveler comfort in mind, said Askew. The new facility reduces energy consumption by 50 percent while accommodating 10 million more passengers a year. “We reduced energy consumption by using diffused air and radiant heating and cooling systems” in renovating the airport’s B boarding area, Askew said. “Functionally, this saves electricity and gas, saves floor space and requires less maintenance and operations. In regards to sustainable design, this reduces energy use, reduces fan noise and ultimately provides better occupant comfort.” One after another in 2018, major hotel chains — IHG, Marriott, Hilton, InterContinental, to name some bigger ones — pledged to eliminate plastic straws and, in some cases, other single-use plastics, responding to campaigns like The Last Plastic Straw that highlight the environmental impact of plastics pollution, particularly in the world’s oceans. Substitutes include paper straws and, increasingly, edible ones. Hilton, for example, uses straws made from pasta, seaweed and even lemongrass APRIL 2019
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ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS:
Aruba’s Bucuti & Tara Beach Resort was the first carbon-neutral resort in North America (top), and banning plastic straws is just a drop in the bucket (above). PHOTOS: © BUCUTI AND TARA BEACH RESORT, © KATIE NESLING DREAMSTIME.COM
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at its resorts. The new Canopy Hotel Portland Pearl District placed water filling stations on every floor of the hotel, saving an estimated 30,000 plastic water bottles since it opened in June 2018. Reducing or eliminating plastics use is just one component of making a good hotel a green one, however. “The elimination of plastic straws is a drop in the bucket of the overall problem,” says hotelier and environmental activist Ewald Biemans, owner, Bucuti & Tara Beach Resort, Aruba, which became the first carbon-neutral resort in North America in 2018. “Plastic bags, any nonreusable plastics, pollution, emissions are all major issues. While it doesn’t hurt, there has to be a starting point and awareness. … A hotel must have a nonreusable plastic policy. It must pay attention to emissions and all forms of pollution in every shape and form, reduction of energy and reduction of the waste stream.” Incentives for forgoing housekeeping services — and thus cutting the use of water and cleaning supplies — are becoming increasingly commonplace in hotels. The Green for Green program at Silicon Valley’s Hotel Valencia Santana Row, for
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example, gives guests who stay two nights or more a $10 daily credit on days when they don’t get their sheets and towels changed. Environmental stewardship is a central part of the brand identity of 1 Hotels, launched in New York and Miami in 2015; expanded to Brooklyn in 2017; and with plans to open more properties in China, Mexico and Silicon Valley. “The 1 Hotels brand aims to show luxury travelers that they can live well, do good and connect with the world around them,” says Barry Sternlicht, founder and CEO, 1 Hotels. Citing research showing more than one in three travelers seek out information on hotels’ environmental and social policies before booking, Hilton International announced plans last May to cut its environmental footprint in half and double its social impact investment by 2030. The plan includes reducing carbon emissions by 61 percent and water consumption and produced waste by 50 percent, buying food from sustainable sources and expanding a soap-recycling program with the goal of sending no soap to landfills. Hilton also has been an active participant in the Hotel Kitchen Toolkit, an industry initiative to reduce food waste, developed by the World Wildlife Foundation in partnership with the American Hotel and Lodging Association and the Rockefeller Foundation. Building on a pilot program in which participating hotels cut their food costs by 3 percent and reduced food waste by up to 38 percent, the toolkit is being shared with hotels to nibble away at the 63 million tons of food wasted each year in the United States alone. In 2019 sustainability isn’t just about conserving energy and reducing waste, but also being mindful about where building supplies and food come from. The Urbana restaurant at the Kimpton Hotel Palomar in Washington, D.C., serves only sustainable seafood in accordance with the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program, for example. Bret Love, cofounder, Green Global Travel, sees 1 Hotels and Fairmont Hotels as among the leaders of a movement toward a more holistic approach to sustainability that goes beyond the important yet limited step of achieving LEED certification for energy efficiency. “LEED really only addresses the sustainability of the building itself rather than the location, the impact on the local community and the cultural heritage of the destination,” says Love. The Global Sustainable Tourism Council, on the other hand, “also emphasizes maximizing social and economic benefits for the local community, enhancing cultural heritage and reducing negative impacts to the environment.” Resort owner Biemans says travelers seeking out a truly green hotel should look for certifications like Green Globe — but also for solar panels on the roof. “A green hotel in 2019 would have a total energy management system and staff training in place and produce at least 30–40 percent of their energy via wind turbine, solar panels or
RENEWABLE RESOURCES: Wind turbines, solar panels and Emirates blankets made from recycled plastic bottles PHOTOS: © WENBIN YU - DREAMSTIME .COM, © UMARIN NAKAMURA DREAMSTIME.COM, © EMIRATES
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other alternative sources,” he said. “The hotel will have a waste management program to mitigate or prevent excessive waste stream to landfills. It will be involved in the community, teaching community preservation of nature, and lead by example. The hotel will have a food safety program and a food waste reduction program. For example, we reduced food waste by 30 percent and give the rest to a pig farmer.” “The hotel will work towards carbon neutrality, which we are grateful to have achieved in August 2018, but that doesn’t mean the work stops,” Biemans adds. “The hotel’s mission needs to be to aid the world and community to mitigate climate change — knowing that the industry has this responsibility due to the nature of their product.” On the big-picture stuff — like eliminating the 859 million tons of CO2 emitted annually by commercial planes — the airline industry’s progress is still mostly pie in the sky. Virgin Atlantic flew the first biofuel-powered flight in 2008, but experts say it will be at least 2030 before a hybrid fossil fuel/electric hybrid airliner takes flight, with zeroemissions flights an even more distant dream. The International Air Transport Association, an industry group, says fuel efficiency improved by about 10 percent between 2009 and 2016, with new generations of aircraft about 20 percent more fuel-efficient than the
jets they replace. Unfortunately, overall carbon emissions continue to rise annually, due to the simple fact more people are flying than ever before. Airlines, however, made more modest efforts to improve their environmental impact, akin to some of the changes in the hotel industry. In 2018, Delta Air Lines announced a plan to eliminate 300,000 pounds of waste by replacing plastic stirrers and straws with alternatives made from bamboo and birch wood, and offering those only by request. American Airlines similarly replaced plastic stirrers with bamboo ones, and Alaska Airlines also eliminated the use of plastic straws. In January, the Portuguese airline Hi Fly announced its intention to become the world’s first plastic-free airline, saying it would cease use of all disposable plastic in 2019. More exotically, EVA Air and Emirates both began using blankets made from recycled plastic bottles, and Delta recycled its old uniforms into backpacks, travel kits, passport covers and other travel accessories, while Southwest released a line of travel bags and accessories made from recycled le seat leather. s whi
ow to ch sh r a e s likely ’ re e s r l o e t re m usn Ho lers a a hotel’s s g, Hilto e v a r et on ookin leisur ormation ore b rs do f e b f in le ns seek trave actio s y s t i e l n i i b s taina ent of bu c r e 29 p well. so as
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Protecting the Planet Combine conservation and travel to help save animals and their habitats. BY SUSAN B. BARNES WILD ONES:
(Left to right) A manatee at play with a snorkeler at Crystal River, an Arabian oryx in a desert near Dubai, a loggerhead sea turtle near the coast of Pico Island in the Azores, and an elephant seen on a Biosphere Expeditions trip PHOTOS: © PLANTATION ON CRYSTAL RIVER, © KAIRI AUN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © HENNER DAMKE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © BIOSPHERE EXPEDITIONS
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EVEN BEFORE WE SLIPPED our wet-suited bodies into the 72-degree waters of spring-fed Crystal River on Florida’s west coast, a curious West Indian manatee revealed its snout when it approached the platform of our pontoon boat to see what was happening. Our group squealed in delight, and we knew it was going to be a good morning of snorkeling with the manatees that gather in the natural springs in Florida to keep warm during the winter months. According to the Save the Manatee Club, federal law protects West Indian manatees in the United States under
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the Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972 as well as the Endangered Species Act of 1973 and the Florida Manatee Sanctuary Act of 1978. In essence, it is illegal to harass, hunt, capture or kill any marine mammal, including manatees. How, then, could we snorkel with the manatees in Crystal River? The Federal Government allows passive, in-water observation between manatees and people in Kings Bay, within Crystal River; this is the only area throughout Florida where it is legal to have face-toface interaction with manatees. Prior to boarding the pontoon boat, our tour with the Plantation Adventure Center at the Plantation on Crystal River began with a short lesson and video on how to practice passive observation, with a set of rules to follow once we were in the water. In addition to providing incredible experiences for their guests, the staff at Plantation Adventure Center is just as intent on protecting the manatees and their habitats.
Plantation Adventure Center is not alone in its conservation efforts. This July, Boulder, Colorado-based Natural Habitat Adventures will debut the world’s first zero-waste adventure during its Safari America: Yellowstone Country. The goal of this adventure is to divert 99 percent or more of all on-trip waste; at the end of the trip, the eco-conscious travelers should be able to fit all waste produced into a single small container. What inspired Court Whelan, Ph.D. — director of sustainability and conservation travel programs, Natural Habitat Adventures — to create the world’s first zero-waste adventure? “There is the long-time company culture at Natural Habitat of innovation, sustainability and creativity when it comes to conservation,” he says. “Simply put, this is in our DNA, and we’re constantly challenging ourselves and the industry to raise the bar on conservation. “I know saving the world may seem a bit of a hyperbole, but I truly think through our actions and inspiration, that’s exactly what we’re doing. And we’re in a unique position in the industry and world to have disproportionate impact for good.”
Biosphere Expeditions, a nonprofit wildlife conservation organization with offices in Australia, France, Germany, Ireland, the U.K. and the United States, leads trips around the world through which citizen scientists participate in wildlife research alongside scientists. Options range from studying whales, dolphins and sea turtles in the Azores to Arabian oryx and Gordon’s wildcats in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, from observing elephants in Thailand to snow leopards in Kyrgyzstan. With many more expeditions from which to choose, there are myriad ways to participate, regardless of age and background. And according to Biosphere Expeditions, two-thirds of contributions benefit the projects directly. When it comes to Biosphere Expeditions’ impact on conservation, Dr. Matthias Hammer, executive director, says, “‘What pays, stays’ is a phrase frequently used at the interface of wildlife conservation and tourism. There are examples the world over where tourism has kept poachers, chainsaws and other destructive influences at bay. … Our citizen science expeditions are no exception, and some of our best staff are converted poachers
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SAVING LIVES:
At Lions Tigers & Bears in San Diego, Zulu, a rescued lion (top left); a behind-the-scenes tour (top right); and rescued grizzly bear siblings Albert and Cherry (bottom) PHOTOS: © LIONS TIGERS & BEARS
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now turned into linchpin conservationists.” Closer to home, Lions Tigers & Bears in San Diego houses animals that have been rescued from the exotic animal trade, the source of tremendous animal neglect and abuse in the United States and globally. While no direct human contact is allowed for the safety of people as well as the animals at Lions Tigers & Bears, visitors have the opportunity to participate in the Feed a Wild One experience, wherein they feed the animal of their choice, and behind-the-scenes visits incorporate opportunities to learn about and feed a number of animals.
For a more immersive experience, guests can reserve the on-site luxury two-bedroom suite with private patio overlooking a three-acre lion habitat. “Education is the key to helping animals,” says Bobbi Brink, founder and executive director, Lions Tigers & Bears. “There is not enough sanctuary space in the world to save all the exotic animals in need. Ultimately, our ability to improve the welfare of captive exotics relies on raising public awareness.” In addition to providing rescue and life-long care to rescued animals, Lions Tigers & Bears is working on legislation and advocacy to help protect animals and end private ownership of apex predators. Germany-based Green Pearls’ mission is to make eco-friendly destinations and accommodations, as well as authentic experiences, more visible worldwide. The organization works with hotels that have initiatives to support the welfare of animals on land, in the air and in the oceans. In Thailand, Keemala Resort & Spa maintains a strict policy against the exploitation of animals and encourages guests to avoid activities that exploit animals for tourists’ entertainment. “Nature plays such an important role in every aspect of Keemala, from the surrounding forest to the waterfalls and rescued animals that call Keemala home, that for us it was only natural to extend this sense of responsibility outward in [the] form of our commit-
ment to environmental sustainability and ethical tourism as well,” says Samornpun Somnam, executive director. “We choose to offer a variety of culturally enriching and holistic lifestyle activities that give insight into the local way of life. Guests who still wish to interact with wildlife are recommended alternative, meaningful experiences such as visiting a sanctuary where they can better appreciate the wildlife that we have in this region without further harming the welfare of these precious animals, particularly endangered ones whose lives are already so precarious,” Somnam adds. Fashionable, eco-conscious travelers can show their support of endangered animals with pieces found in the Tiffany Save the Wild Collection from Tiffany & Co. Launched in September 2017, the collection features elephant, rhinoceros and lion designs, with 100 percent of the profits donated to the Wildlife Conservation Network. Tiffany & Co. has made a total commitment of $4 million by December 2019. “The Tiffany Save the Wild Collection’s success so far truly underscores the increasing demand for luxury that makes an impact,” says Anisa Kamadoli Costa, chief sustainability officer, Tiffany & Co. “For over 180 years, Tiffany & Co. has been inspired by the beauty of the natural world. For this reason, we believe we have a moral imperative to protect it — and our customers are validating this belief with each purchase.” Stefany Seipp, founder and CEO, Green Pearls, summarizes the philosophy behind conservation travel perfectly: “We owe this world to future generations. We need to act now; there is no ‘Planet B.’ Without the oceans there is no life, no blue, no green. It is our common responsibility to protect and conserve the planet.”
PRECIOUS ANIMALS:
Rescued buffalo at Keemala Resort & Spa in Thailand (top), and jewelry pieces from the Tiffany Save the Wild Collection (bottom) PHOTOS: © KEEMALA RESORT & SPA, © TIFFANY & CO.
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mice | VANCOUVER
Natural Appeal Vancouver proves the ideal venue for eco-friendly events. BY RON BERNTHAL BREATHTAKING BEAUTY: Vancouver Convention Centre’s living green roof with views of mountains and Vancouver Harbour PHOTO: © VANCOUVER CONVENTION CENTRE
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DURING MY FIRST VISIT to Vancouver three decades ago, I spent my days walking the city’s wet and foggy streets, spent hours in Chinatown’s 1940s-era Ovaltine Café, ate mussels and oysters at the public market stalls on Granville Island, attended an NHL hockey game and met a pretty girl on the SeaBus to North Vancouver. With snowcapped mountains hovering above the city’s skyline and a chilly sea mist blowing in off the harbor, I could always detect a fresh, cleansing hint of brine in the air. After several subsequent visits, it is wonderful to see Vancouver, even with all its new glass and steel towers, remains the same magical, breathtakingly
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beautiful and friendly outpost on the far western edge of the continent. What has changed, however, is Vancouver’s deepening green philosophy, a reality MICE planners truly appreciate. Vancouver can already claim the smallest carbon footprint of any major North American city. With an ongoing commitment to mixed-use development, abundant green space, efficient public transit and sustainable building standards, it consistently ranks among the world’s greenest cities. Its destination marketing organization, Tourism Vancouver, was the first in North America with a sustainable destination specialist. Vancouver expects to experience one of the busiest MICE years in its history, good news for the Vancouver Convention Centre, the city’s premier exhibition and conventions facility. With its harbor-front location and stunning sea and mountain views, the VCC offers one of the most beautiful settings in the world. The addition of the VCC’s West Building in 2009 and its six-acre living green roof tripled the center’s meeting, exhibition, ballroom and theater space to 466,500 square feet. Amenities like a seawater heating and cooling system, on-site water treatment and a fish habitat built into the foundation of the West Building make the VCC one of the greenest convention centers in the world. The building’s heating and cooling system feeds through the deep water of the harbor, using it as a constant
GREAT OUTDOORS: Aerial view of MICE venue Sea to Sky Gondola Summit Lodge PHOTO: © TOPO FILMS
UNIQUE VENUES Expected to open this year, the SeaSide Hotel offers 72 rooms, ocean-facing spa suites and a lobby bar. Situated on the North Vancouver waterfront, the property is part of The Shipyards, a new development easily accessed from the Vancouver Convention Centre via a 12-minute SeaBus passenger ferry. The hotel will not have its own meeting space, but planners can arrange private group space at Joey Shipyards, a 9,000-square-foot restaurant next door featuring a patio and theater kitchen. seasidehotelvancouver.com
temperature base to reduce the amount of energy used. Along with the East Building, which shares space with a cruise ship terminal and the Pan Pacific Hotel, the VCC is the world’s first double LEED Platinumcertified convention center. “The global business events industry is extremely competitive, and to once again receive top rankings in the Watkins Report that represents the views of nearly 1,000 meeting planners is both humbling and inspiring,” said Claire Smith, vice president of sales and marketing, Vancouver Convention Centre. “We are truly proud of these results that speak to the strength of our entire hospitality and events community and the global appeal of the Vancouver Convention Centre and the destination.” Vancouver offers a number of well-established, deluxe hotels MICE groups enjoy, including the Hyatt Regency (644 rooms), Pan Pacific (503), Fairmont Waterfront (489), Four Seasons (372), Fairmont Pacific Rim (367), Rosewood Hotel Georgia (156) and the Shangri-La (119). Metro Vancouver boasts more than 23,000 hotel rooms, with about 12,000 in the downtown core. The residual effects of the 2010 Winter Olympics, the city’s booming cruise ship industry, its exceptional cuisine and its green reputation all contributed to Vancouver hosting a record 10 million-plus visitors annually in the past few years, with Vancouver International Airport adding more than 20 new routes. “I cannot think of any other convention destination that checks all of the boxes like Vancouver does,” Leslie Zeck, director of meetings, International and American Associations for Dental Research, said of her recent Vancouver convention experience. “After
planning meetings all across the globe, I can say that organizing or attending a meeting in Vancouver just allows everyone to breathe easier. Vancouver as a destination is the formula for success.” The newest MICE accommodations and meeting venues can be found at Parq Vancouver, a mixed-use, downtown “resort destination” project designed by Canadian firms ACDF Architecture and Architecture49 and built to meet LEED gold standards. Opened in 2017 and located next to BC Place sports arena, Parq’s three towers contain two hotels; a JW Marriott occupies the twin towers on the eastern side of the complex, while the third tower houses The DOUGLAS hotel, opened in 2018. Together, the properties offer more than 470 rooms and 55 luxury suites. Both hotels provide guests with convenient access to Parq Vancouver’s wide range of amenities, including eight restaurants and lounges; downtown’s only casino; a 30,000-square-foot elevated park with trees located six floors above street level; a Spa by JW; and a modern fitness center. Parq Vancouver also includes 60,000 square feet of meeting and event space; 13 boardrooms; and the 15,000-squarefoot Parq Grand Ballroom, the largest hotel ballroom in Vancouver. “Parq was conceived as the missing link between the active environment of BC Place stadium and the downtown core’s thriving entertainment district,” said Maxime-Alexis Frappier, the project’s lead design architect at ACDF. “We have put forward a design that not only fulfills that role but which also captures the essence of the city and its breathtaking natural surroundings.”
Located on the beautiful west side of Vancouver, the University of British Columbia offers The Nest, a five-story facility with 250,000 square feet of LEED Platinum meeting and event space, opened in 2015. It houses eight eateries, two of which offer a full venue buy-out; 33 state-of-the-art breakout rooms; and 12 event spaces ranging from 100 to 11,000 square feet. A three-story rock climbing wall offers a mid-meeting adrenaline rush. Catering menus at the 600-person Great Hall ballroom are 100 percent Ocean Wise certified, supporting the venue’s commitment to ethical and sustainable food. ams.ubc.ca/the-nest Coastal Mountains scenery makes the Sea to Sky Gondola Summit Lodge, 45 minutes from Vancouver in Squamish, British Columbia, one of the best places in Canada to organize a MICE meeting or recreational event for about 100 persons. Arrange for hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, backcountry skiing, snowshoeing or team building, as well as private functions in the lodge’s Diamond Head room. seatoskygondola.com In North Vancouver, Two Rivers Specialty Meats boasts a traditional working butchery, complete with a glass-walled dry-age room; a Europeanstyle deli; and a 32-seat, eat-in restaurant, all laid out on a terrazzo-floored, 2,500-square-foot industrial space with an additional 16-seat patio. Great for small MICE groups. tworiversmeats.ca
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nia atago P n . i rivers Park l d a n n a o ati kes aine N glaciers, la P l e sd ins, Torre ounta m l al has it
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destination one | BHUTAN
Kingdom of Green
Bhutan welcomes visitors while protecting the environment and its national culture. BY RICHARD NEWTON
WINDING WAY: The hill road and aerial view of Thimphu PHOTO: © LCCHEW DREAMSTIME.COM
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GETTING TO BHUTAN is half the challenge; getting around is the other half. This mountain kingdom in the Himalayas has made the most of its natural defenses, quietly developing at its own pace, picking and choosing what to accept of the modern world. Time and again you will be immersed in scenes straight out of the Middle Ages, only to be brought back to the 21st century abruptly — for instance, by a Buddhist monk extracting a smartphone from the folds of his robe. It’s that kind of place. Arriving by air (as most visitors do) is not for the faint-hearted. “The mountains will be much
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closer than you are used to,” the Drukair pilot invariably warns as the descent begins. And sure enough, as the Airbus tips and turns through a succession of valleys, the mountain walls close in. With one final tight turn and a stomach-churning nose dive, the plane touches down at Paro International Airport. The airplane door opens onto a country unlike any other. You inhale pristine air as you descend the steps and cross the apron to an ornate terminal that resembles a Buddhist temple. Forested mountains loom all around.
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE
Dzongkha. English is widely spoken and is the instructional language in schools.
JUST THE FACTS
Time zone: GMT +6 Phone code: 975 Currency: Bhutanese ngultrum Key Industries: Hydropower, agriculture, forestry, tourism
Bhutan claims to be the greenest country in the world, with good reason. The virgin forests absorb around 6 million tons of carbon annually, while the country’s annual carbon emissions amount to around 1.5 million tons, making it the only carbon-negative country on Earth. By 2020 its food production will be 100 percent organic, and by 2030 the nation aims to produce zero waste. As the crow flies, the airport lies just 14 miles from the capital, Thimphu. But you soon discover journeys in Bhutan are rarely straight. The roads hug precipitous mountainsides, wending along valleys, across bridges and over high mountain passes. A head for heights is useful. A recent upgrade to the main east-west highway has shortened journey times, and the drive to the capital from the airport now takes about an hour over a distance of 34 miles. Thimphu, which occupies a beautiful, broad valley, expanded and modernized considerably in recent years, yet it remains unmistakably Bhutanese. Almost all of the buildings — including the few international chain hotels — are designed in the traditional style, with wood-framed windows and roofs with overhanging eaves. As traffic increased, the city made an attempt to introduce traffic lights. (Thimphu is one of the last world capitals without them.) Local
LODGING AMANKORA BUMTHANG LODGE The understated luxury of Aman’s 16-suite lodge in Bumthang is perfect for recuperation after the rigors of a Himalayan trek. The property’s own spa offers a range of treatments. Jakar, Bumthang $$$$ AMANKORA PARO LODGE One of five exquisite Aman lodges in Bhutan features minimalist
elegance in tranquil surroundings. The Paro outpost is convenient to the airport. Near Kuenga Chhoeling Palace, Paro $$$$ LE MÉRIDIEN THIMPHU International hotel chains have only recently ventured into Bhutan and must conform with the local culture and architecture. This swanky hotel is built in Bhutanese style. Chorten Lam, Thimphu $$$$
DESIGN DETAILS:
Intricately carved wooden façade and mural paintings at Punakha Dzong PHOTO: © ANTONELLA865 - DREAMSTIME.COM
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DINING BUKHARI Overseen by an Indonesian chef, Bukhari offers an eclectic international menu or the option of a Bhutanese set menu. Enjoy a beautiful semicircular dining area arranged around a stone fireplace. COMO Uma Paro Hotel, Paro Valley, Paro $$$ FOLK HERITAGE MUSEUM RESTAURANT A favorite of the late Anthony Bourdain, who featured it in one of his final programs, the restaurant offers a great place to sample Bhutan’s unashamedly fiery cuisine. Kawajangsa, Thimphu $$ THE SWISS GUEST HOUSE Bhutan and Switzerland — both mountain nations — have shared a special friendship for decades. In chalet-like surroundings originally built for expatriate Swiss dairy workers, enjoy Swiss cuisine, including cheese fondue and bratwurst. Jakar, Bumthang $$
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drivers found them impersonal and campaigned successfully for the return of traffic policemen at busy intersections. Their intricate choreography remains one of the many charming oddities of life here. The kingdom’s long-standing insularity continues to limit foreign investment. While there are undoubtably opportunities for outside investors, all business must be done on Bhutanese terms, which means plenty of red tape and a plethora of restrictions designed to protect the environment and national culture. The biggest sector is hydropower, harnessing the many raging rivers to create electricity for export to neighboring India. Agriculture continues as an important part of Bhutanese life, especially the cultivation of maize, rice and chili peppers (the essential ingredient of local cuisine). Tourism is perhaps the sector best suited to foreign involvement, though again local regulations can make for a challenging business environment. Bhutan deliberately pursues a policy of “low volume, high value” tourism. All foreign visitors on group tours must pay a tariff of $250 per day while they are in the country (with a $40 surcharge for groups of one or two). Independent travel is discouraged. The tariffs and limits on visitor numbers help to preserve Bhutan’s unique ambience. Few experiences beat attending a tshechu, a Buddhist festival held in one of the regional dzongs (an imposing cross between a castle and a monastery). Imagine being plunged into Shakespearean England. For the duration, plays and dances are performed to a raucous audience of rural people in traditional dress, many of whom walked for days to get there. It’s as close to time travel as you can get. While the rest of the world has homogenized, the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon (as Bhutan is often called) remains a land apart.
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FESTIVE DANCERS:
People in traditional dress and masks at a tshechu PHOTO: © HUNGCHUNGCHIH - DREAMSTIME.COM
INFO TO GO
International flights arrive at Paro International Airport, four miles from the city of Paro and 34 miles from the capital, Thimphu. Regular scheduled flights connect to Bangkok (BKK), Delhi (DEL), Kathmandu (KTM) and Singapore (SIN). Due to the tricky terrain, delays due to poor visibility are common, and all arriving aircraft carry enough fuel to divert if landing in Bhutan isn’t possible. For those opting to arrive overland, there are three entry points from India. Phuentsholing is the primary border crossing. The drive from there to Thimphu takes approximately five hours.
What cultural differences should Americans know about when visiting Bhutan? To begin, the Bhutanese are a welcoming community. There’s no barrier between “us and them.” Visitors to the kingdom are treated with high regard and respect, and English is widely spoken. What visitors do need to be aware of is the Bhutanese are exceptionally respectful of their king and the extended royal family and also of their religion, the Buddha and various saints and deities. They are fun-loving, appreciate jokes, humor and camaraderie.
CHECKING IN WITH JOHN REED Country Manager, Amankora Lodges
How long have you been in Bhutan? About 16 years. I arrived here in April 2003. Bhutan is renowned as one of the greenest countries in the world. How important are environmental considerations for Amankora? Exceptionally important. Since day one we have worked to keep our footprint to a minimum, from how we handle our water treatment to energy conservation, [from] segregation of waste for recycling and kitchen waste for composting or animal feed to eliminating all plastic straws and plastic water bottles (we bottle our own water). We also work with suppliers to reduce packaging.
What are the key developments to look for? Immediate news is the completion of the upgrading of the east-west highway. The widening of the highway has been a challenging guest experience for the past five years, but now with completion the travel times are much shorter and smoother between our lodges. Beyond this, we are adding additional amenities to our lodges, including swimming pools, enhanced comprehensive spa facilities and a couple of high-altitude trekking camps. Which visitor attractions do you especially recommend? Tiger’s Nest and Kyichu Lhakhang, as well as Dumtse Lhakhang in Paro; Cheri Goemba and Simtokha Dzong in Thimphu; the Giligang hiking trail and the Punakha Dzong in Punakha; the Longtey hiking trail and [a] visit to the monastic training school in Gangtey; Tamshing Lhakhang and the beer and cheese factory in Bumthang. There are many others, but these are some of the highlights.
HIMALAYAN HOSPITALITY:
Amankora Lodge Thimphu exterior and courtyard (above), and John Reed of Amankora Lodges (left) PHOTOS: © AMAN RESORTS
COMING AND GOING
All U.S. citizens must have a passport valid for at least six months after arrival and must obtain visa clearance before traveling to Bhutan. Visa applications take at least seven working days to process; you cannot purchase an air ticket until your visa is secured. At the point of entry you must provide two passport photos for the paperwork and pay a visa fee of $40. In addition, a daily tariff of $250 is levied on all visitors to the country (the rate drops to $200 from December to February and June to August). Visitors staying for longer than six months must submit to an HIV/AIDS test.
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MAGIC OF BHUTAN: Taktshang Goemba (above), and Bhutanese men competing in a game of archery in Thimphu (right) PHOTOS: © PICHAYA P DREAMSTIME.COM, © ULYSSEPIXEL - DREAMSTIME .COM
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DIVERSIONS
Taktshang Goemba — Tiger’s Nest Monastery — is Bhutan’s most famous site and an absolute must-see. But there’s a drawback. Visiting this incredible building, perilously built into a near-vertical cliff face, requires a serious uphill trek. From the trailhead, up a switchback path, an ascent of around 1,800 feet will finally put you on a level with the monastery, scenically perched on the opposite side of a deep valley. The hike, in the thin air of high altitude, is strenuous, but near the top sits a café where you can recover. If the prospect of the steep hike is too daunting, the only other option is to ride by mule. From the café, the final path to the monastery can only be completed on foot. The building, a meticulous restoration opened in 2005 after the monastery had been destroyed by fire in 1998, remains breathtaking in every sense. Bhutan’s major towns are usually dominated by a dzong, a formidable combination of castle and monastery. Most welcome visitors, and each holds an annual tshechu, a colorful Buddhist festival. Check in advance if your visit to Bhutan will coincide with a tshechu and plan your schedule accordingly (bear in mind the dates of a tshechu are determined by the lunar observations and can be delayed by a day or two at short notice). Although it’s not mandatory, many foreigners choose to wear traditional Bhutanese garb when attending a tshechu: for men, a robe called a gho, and for women a silk dress known as a kira. The most popular tshechus are those held in Paro (March), Thimphu (September) and Bumthang (November). Bhutan’s national obsession is the sport of archery, and on weekends archery tournaments often take place at dedi-
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cated fields in Paro and Thimphu. In a fascinating spectacle, rival teams taunt each other as individual archers take aim. Beyond the cultural attractions, trekking proves the main lure for tour groups. The Himalayan foothills provide some spectacular hikes, visiting remote communities and monasteries. The trekking heartland is the central region of Bumthang, with its beautiful valleys and abundance of important Buddhist sites.
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9–5 | CAPE TOWN
GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town
passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques
he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE
JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers
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stateside | MINNEAPOLIS
Super Star Big, bold changes shine a new spotlight on Minneapolis. BY MARLENE GOLDMAN TEAM SPIRIT:
Minnesota Vikings’ The Horn sculpture at U.S. Bank Stadium PHOTO : © MARLENE GOLDMAN
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MINNEAPOLIS ASSERTS its star power on a variety of fronts, from its history as a music city (Prince remained loyal to his roots here) to its wealth of art galleries and museums to its status as a professional sports magnet. Sharing its Twin Cities moniker with the neighboring state capital of St. Paul, Minneapolis stepped into the spotlight in 2018 as the host of Super Bowl LII, showing off the new U.S. Bank Stadium — home of the Minnesota Vikings and host to this summer’s upcoming X Games as well as this month’s 2019 NCAA Men’s Final Four. A slew of new developments accompanied its
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opening. “We had a lot of big infrastructure changes leading up to the Super Bowl,” said Kristen Montag, senior public relations and communications manager, Meet Minneapolis. “The stadium sparked a lot of development and growth — more stores, a lot more people.” According to Montag, after the stadium opened in Downtown East, it spurred a lot of development in the nearby Mill District. This month the Canopy by Hilton Minneapolis Mill District opens as a 183-room hotel in the renovated former Thresher Square building. Also in the area slated for this year is Moxy Minneapolis Downtown, with 153 rooms in the Ironclad building. As part of the city’s expansion, Target Center, home of the NBA’s Minnesota Timberwolves, also took the wraps off a $150 million transformation before last year’s Super Bowl. Meanwhile, Allianz Field will debut in the Midway area of St. Paul this spring as the new home of Major League Soccer’s Minnesota United FC. The stadium, designed to revitalize a 34-acre site which includes a 1.5-acre green space to its north, is designed with energy-efficient and sustainable features. Downtown’s shopping and entertainment strip, Nicollet Mall, now known as Nicollet, underwent a $50 million transformation before the Super Bowl, adding more trees and outdoor art. It is home to the famed statue of Mary Tyler Moore. The renowned Walker Art Center, a Minneapolis institution since 1940, sits at one end of Nicollet. Across the street, the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, expanded and
redesigned in 2017, showcases more than 40 pieces, including the signature Claes Oldenburg Spoonbridge and Cherry sculpture. Upcoming, The Dayton’s Project food hall expects to open this fall in a historic building that was the longtime home to Minneapolis retailer Dayton’s department stores — also the home to the beginnings of Target Corp. In the middle of a $190 million renovation, it boasts more than 200,000 square feet of retail space across three levels. Chef, TV host and entrepreneur Andrew Zimmern and partners list among 40 to 50 total vendors as tenants of a new food hall occupying the street and basement levels. The city is also currently working on a revamp of Peavey Plaza, slated for completion by July. Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2013, this plaza on Nicollet, renowned for its Modernist architecture, will include updated fountains and water features as well as improved lighting and will comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act. “It’s a good community spot,” Montag said. Already on board with sustainable initiatives, the Minneapolis Convention Center, which hosted this year’s Final Four Fan Fest, received LEED v4 Certification for Existing Building Operations and Maintenance. The numbers include 60 percent of all waste recycled and four tons of food donated each year, with non-consumed foods donated to local nonprofit organizations like People Serving People. “The Convention Center did a lot of work the last handful of years changing out LED lights, renovating and looking at sustainability issues,” Montag said. “One of the first things was putting solar panels on the roof.” Other green initiatives include the growth of the city’s light rail service, Metro Transit, which runs to Mall of America as well as downtown St. Paul and is working on a southwest expansion. Also, the bike share Nice Ride Minnesota now offers dockless bikes, and several companies are providing scooters. Northeast Minneapolis, filled with old repurposed warehouses that now feature artists’ studios, galleries and live performance spaces, undergoes growth as more buildings, high-rises and people move in. According to Montag, the area offers a lot of new restaurants, breweries and cideries, as well. “Northeast Minneapolis is like New York’s Brooklyn,” Montag said. The craft beer scene is also taking off in Northeast Minneapolis, including popular spots like 612Brew, with 10 house beers on tap at a time, and Bauhaus Brew Labs. At the same time, the restaurant scene is booming across Minneapolis and its surrounds. “The food scene has been really developing organically the last dozen years,” Montag said. “It’s almost hard to find a chain restaurant — a lot are owned by local chefs with notable credentials.”
POP ART:
Spoonbridge and Cherry at the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden PHOTO : © MARLENE GOLDMAN
SCENIC DRIVES
In particular, the North Loop neighborhood has been trending for a while. This month Gavin Kaysen (James Beard Best Chef – Midwest 2018) opens his newest spot, Demi, in a North Loop location adjacent to his popular Spoon and Stable restaurant. Also watch for a new Fillmore Theater and an Element by Westin hotel. Chef Sean Sherman, whose cookbook, The Sioux Chef ’s Indigenous Kitchen, won a James Beard award for Best American Cookbook, grew up in South Dakota but lives in Minneapolis. He is slated to open Indigenous Food Lab, a nonprofit with a classroom kitchen and restaurant. Sherman and partner Dana Thompson are also developing a new riverfront restaurant as part of the Water Works park on the west bank of the Mississippi in 2020. Chef Justin Sutherland, a Bravo Top Chef contestant, will move his Pearl & the Thief from Stillwater to downtown Minneapolis in July. Outside the city, Prince’s Paisley Park, located 20 minutes from downtown, opened as a museum following Prince’s death in 2016. Tours include the studio where Prince recorded his music as well as the stage where he hosted parties and performed live.
One of the easier daytrips from the Twin Cities, roughly 30–40 miles from Minneapolis and 15–30 miles from the St. Paul side, is the town of Stillwater, one of the oldest in Minnesota. Travelers can take either Highway 36 or I-94 and pass through the pastoral St. Croix River Valley. In Stillwater browse antique shops, bookstores and record shops and wander streets flanked with old brick buildings. Other options include crossing the Stillwater Lift Bridge, linking Wisconsin and Minnesota since 1931. About 55 miles from Minneapolis lies the town of Red Wing, linked by either Highway 61 or 52, passing through the Mississippi River Valley. Attractions include boutique shopping, art galleries and museums, historic homes, the historic St. James Hotel and an antique pottery museum. The town is filled with community and neighborhood parks featuring hiking and biking trails and is also home to Lake Pepin, a 26-mile-long picturesque spot on the Mississippi.
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9–5 | PRAGUE
Possibilities in Prague The Czech capital excels at making business a pleasure. BY ALLIE MOORE
MEDIEVAL TOWN: Aerial view over Church of Our Lady Before Tyn at Old Town Square PHOTO: © OLGACOV DREAMSTIME.COM
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THE CITY OF A THOUSAND spires stretches vastly from either side of the Vltava River, flanked by castle-topped hills to the west and a charismatic Old Town to the east. Prague experienced a renaissance of sorts in the past decade, attracting not only tourists who come to see its magnificent Old Town Square and centuries-old bridges but also professionals who discover newfound reasons to visit the next up-and-coming European metropolis. In each of the past two years, Prague made the list of the world’s top 10 cities for expatriates, enticing international businesses and freelance contractors who now call the Czech capital home. According to this annual survey conducted by Internations, Prague ranks highly in terms of job opportunities, job security and work-life balance. But even those who don’t live in Prague still flock to the Eastern European capital for opportunities to grow their networks and connect with like-minded professionals. Prague was named the 20th-most visited city in the world by Euromonitor International. Since
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the Czech Republic’s entry into the European Union in 2004, the number of foreign employees in Prague tripled to more than 500,000. Another survey by Arcadis lists Prague as the second-best city in which to live and do business in all of Central and Southeast Europe. Despite a fairly robust public transportation system, Prague’s City Council seeks to invest nearly $92 million into new parking lots and parking garages for commuters, a Council high priority for 2019. Prague’s new mayor, Zdenĕk Hřib, announced upcoming construction of a new metro line (Line D), expected to be completed within the next four years. Prague also plans to enhance its commuter rail system by adding high-speed daily trains that will connect Prague with surrounding cities such as Benešov and Kutná Hora, while other lines will see an increase in the frequency of train departures during peak hours. Getting down to business in Prague typically involves a few beers and a hearty meal of dumplings
or stew. As home of the world’s first pilsner, Prague has no shortage of enchanting beer halls where groups can reserve tables to sample some of the city’s oldest and highest-rated brews. Before imbibing in the locally brewed delicacy, settle in for a working lunch at Field, a Michelin-starred restaurant on the north side of Old Town. Try the multicourse lunch tasting menu, available on weekdays for 1,300 Czech koruna (approximately $58), not including wine pairings. Start with an amuse-bouche of lamb, gouda and raisin, or a seasonal taste of pumpkin, spicy butter and black garlic. Main dishes run the gamut from pike perch with curry kale and horseradish to beef, potato, yolk and dill. Just down the road find Prague’s picture-perfect Café Imperial where high ceilings, intricate wall carvings, gold accents and porcelain dishware round out an interior fit for royalty. Book a private room for meetings or celebratory gatherings and sample Michelin-starred cuisine such as roasted goose with bread dumplings and white cabbage, or grilled pork chops with beer sauce and Lyonnaise potatoes. More centrally located in Old Town is Restaurace Mincovna, a modern and clean space where sun creeps in to reflect off whitewashed walls and wood adornments. Long tables and comfortable taupe booth seating foster a setting for private conversations accompanied by traditional yet elegant Czech cuisine. Authenticity appeases the palate at Lokál Dlouhááá in the heart of Old Town, serving carefully curated dishes constructed with only regional ingredients alongside authentic Czech beer poured directly from the vats in which it is made. Specialties include mushroom-braised local rabbit, pork knuckle roasted in dark beer and pork neck steak with fried onions and gravy. Head toward the Vltava River to Estrella, a fine-dining vegetarian spot that incorporates organic ingredients into 20 percent of its seasonal dishes. A daily lunch menu includes soup, salad and a main course, which can be accompanied by a spot of only-local beer or wine, or a luscious dessert such as lavender panna cotta. Take clients and colleagues to the water for a less traditional gathering on the eco-friendly vessels of Prague Boats. The plastics-free company hosts day cruises up and down the Vltava River, and boats of varying sizes can even be rented out for
BOATS AND BREWS: A sightseeing boat tours the Vltava River (above), and Prague is home to the world’s first pilsner beer. PHOTOS: © TETIANA ROZHNOVSKA DREAMSTIME.COM, © WRANGEL DREAMSTIME.COM
private functions such as holiday parties, team-building activities or business lunches or dinners, with capacities ranging from 11 up to 550, complete with catering and entertainment services. When the workday is done, head to the 27th floor of Prague’s City Tower for sunset and a few pre-dinner cocktails at Aureole. Panoramic views extend over the city and the river from the top of the country’s tallest building, where guests can relax in one of two lounges, at the bar or on the outdoor terrace, and order Asian fusion dishes until 10 p.m. Whether you’re in Prague for business or pleasure, the medieval city caters to both, often simultaneously.
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after 5 | HOBART
Wholesome Hobart Revel in the bucolic beauty of Tasmania’s port city. BY BECCA HENSLEY
UNTRAMMELED, WITH AIR QUALITY reported among the best in the world, an Eden-like island where being a locavore was always in style, Tasmania — Australia’s southern state, located across the Strait of Bass from the mainland — may be overtaking Iceland’s reputation as the world’s most unspoiled destination. Nature buffs love its inner landscapes, composed of wallaby-brimming bushland, mountain peaks, verdant valleys, vineyards, meadows and farmland. Add in inviting beaches, olive groves and orchards, and this one-time penal colony reigns as an athlete’s playground. But what to do after hiking, whale-watching, biking, food market perusing and treetop walking? Where do you go after you’ve visited distilleries, shorn sheep with farmers, taken a cooking course at highly touted Agrarian Kitchen or hobnobbed with locals at the island’s various festivals? Get thee to Hobart, a stylish port city which blends heritage with nature to manifest an urban translation of Tassie’s bucolic glory. You’ll find the outdoors continues to be glorified in this Georgian-style city with its happening waterfront bars, the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), parks galore and alfresco lifestyle. A word of caution for those all-night partier types: Despite Tasmania’s history as home to convicts, it’s not a nefarious or bawdy place at all. Wholesome living, fresh air and outdoorsy days lead to early bedtimes for most Tasweigians. Their
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obsession with craft beer, locally made spirits, inspirational wine and field-to-table seasonal eating means playtime embraces a quality-over-quantity aspect. Eating with friends followed by a night cap, or happy hour by the water before dinner typifies most nights. Begin early at Faro, a restaurant located at MONA, with the Art + Dinner program, a ticket that lets you peruse exhibits between courses. Try Grape Food and Wine Bar in Salamanca Place, a historic square, for Espresso Martini Happy Hour, or sophisticated Birdcage Bar in Sandy Bay at the Wrest Point Casino for legendary cocktails. Dance lovers can shake it up at LGBTQ+-friendly Flamingos Dance Bar, while late-night sippers can hang at hip Preachers, for craft beer, or The Den Salamanca, a haven celebrating local products.
PICTURE-PERFECT:
Sunset panorama view of Sullivan’s Cove, Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery, and floating cafès (top); and MONA (bottom) PHOTOS: © VLADZETTER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SHAUN ROBINSON - DREAMSTIME.COM
es y Jon Henr e h t at bart’s Stay n Ho o l cte t o convi a Art H n i nce t hich o rfron w e s wate hou ry. It ware facto built m a ary d a j mpor e t n house o c t. 500 of ar s s d k l r o o h w anian Tasm
TAHITI NONSTOP FROM LOS ANGELES 3 weekly nonstop flights between LAX & Papeete. New cabins with direct aisle access Business flat beds. Easy connections to Bora Bora and other islands. AF 76 (DL 8560) TUE/THU/SAT - Depart LAX AF 77 (DL 8467) WED/FRI/SUN - Depart PPT
. neighborhoods | ISTANBUL
Bosporus Buzz Explore İstanbul’s high-energy hub of Beyoğlu. BY PATRICK ADAMS
TOUR THE TOWN: Historic tram on İstiklâl Avenue (left), and Galata Tower (below) PHOTOS: © ELENA ODAREEVA - DREAMSTIME .COM, PHOTO 63292745 © SERDAR GÜRVARDAR DREAMSTIME.COM
SEVERAL YEARS AGO, I made İstanbul home. And like so many moves, it began with a visit. I’d planned a typical three-day tour. From my perch at the Four Seasons in Sultanahmet, I’d hit the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, explore the ancient lanes of the Grand Bazaar and take in the tiled splendor of Topkapi Palace. I’d hop on a ferry to the Asian side for brunch in Kadiköy and maybe drinks in Moda. Then off I’d go with Turkish Airlines, non-stop to New York. But that plan quickly fell apart. A chance encounter led to a feast of fish and raki, Turkey’s anise-flavored liqueur, with a group of new friends. And then an idea: What if I stayed? I did. I spent the better part of four years in İstanbul’s Beyoğlu neighborhood, high up a hillside overlooking the Bosporus, the waterway that separates Europe from Asia. Once one of the world’s most polluted bodies of water, the Bosporus benefitted from intensive cleanup
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efforts over the past several years, and from my top-floor terrace I often watched the boats crisscrossing that ancient strait. Beyoğlu is best known for İstiklâl Avenue, a pedestrian promenade lined with shops and restaurants, cafés and bars. And though much changed under the Islamist government of Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, it remains the pulsing heart of European İstanbul with its mishmash of old and new buildings, high-end dining and tantalizing street fare, underground wine cellars and rooftop pools. For a taste of Black Sea cuisine, head to Hayvore, or go for the grilled kebab at Dürümzade, and wash it down with a cool, creamy ayran, Turkey’s national drink. For dessert, try the marzipan at Şirin Firin (maybe the baklava, too), and walk it all off with a hike to the iconic Galata Tower. From there, amble down the hill to the 16th-century Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam and enjoy a Turkish bath at its best.
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Take Me to Tahiti Consider Air France for your next trip to the beautiful Tahitian islands. a perfect sunset view beckons you to the pool bar. You can also enjoy breakfast in room, delivered via canoe, before snorkeling in the coral garden or indulging in a massage at the hotel spa. The island is also the spot to learn how to play ukulele with the locals.
Mana is the life force Tahitians believe connects all things. Feel the mana for yourself on a visit to the islands of Tahiti, and sample some of these activities as you connect with the breathtaking nature of the South Pacific.
PHOTOS: © TAHITI TOURISME
WHEN IN RAIATEA Get to know Raiatea on a catamaran tour or kayak adventure on the Faaroa River. Travelers can also opt to stand-up paddle board on the waterway. Ripe for exploration are the island’s vanilla plantations and Taputapuatea Marae, a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring a number of marae and stone structures and once considered a central temple
WHEN IN MOOREA After you check in at Sofitel Moorea Ia Ora Beach Resort, enjoy the various on-site facilities before a romantic dinner on the beach. Explore further on a subsequent day and rent a buggy to tool around the island, stopping at Belvédère for breathtaking views or shopping for locally made crafts. Other options for your Moorea adventure include a tasting at a fruit juice factory, lagoon tours, swimming with sharks and rays, a motu picnic, zip lining, underwater helmet diving, golfing, snorkeling and more.
WHEN IN TAHA’A An overwater bungalow at Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa – Relais & Châteaux awaits on Taha’a, and
WHEN IN HIVA OA Horseback through the mountains or explore the Atuona village during your time in Hiva Oa. Fill your suitcase with the local arts and crafts after you get to know one of the island’s sculptors. There’s also the archeological site of me’ae in Puama’u, home to a large tiki statue. WHEN IN TAHITI It’s back to the island of Tahiti for your Air France flight home, but the dream vacation doesn’t have to end just yet. Explore Tahiti further before departing; find romance over dinner at Le Coco’s or sample from les roulottes, or food trucks, gathered near the wharf. Boat to see the legendary Teahupo’o wave and then hike to waterfalls. After checking out Papeete’s sights, take one last moment to savor the incredible beauty surrounding you. For more information, visit airfrance.us.
friends & family | PATAGONIA
Wild and Windy
Trek to remote beauty and adventure in Chilean Patagonia. BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY
of aters t w e h T ld umbo the H bring ent Curr fish to tiful boun e world’s th feed sea bird, st , large lbatross a e th ilean in Ch ia. gon Pata
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THE SOUTHERNMOST REGION of the world rewards travelers with massive glaciers; ice fields; deep blue lakes; dark forests; and majestic, ragged mountains. Patagonia lies at the end of the massive Andes mountain range and serves as one of the departure points for travel on to Tierra del Fuego, the Patagonian Lakes, Cape Horn and, finally, Antarctica. Shared with Argentina, Chilean Patagonia’s natural wonders rival nature’s wildest, most dramatic and most remote. During most of the year, this windy, cool climate is in almost constant flux and can blow visitors away — quite literally. In this breathtaking and unique corner of the world, the weather sometimes proves as dramatic as the landscape. Outdoor activities abound for visitors, including riding, hiking to a remote overnight cabin, heli-skiing, heli-fishing, Jeeping and whitewater rafting. Additionally, wildlife sightings equal those on an African safari. Patagonia also offers a Big Five of game, especially in Torres del Paine National Park; boating on the Chilean Lakes; hiking to a glacier or ice field; and floating a river and fishing, where you’ll probably
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INFO TO GO
Most travelers begin their journey to Patagonia with a flight to Santiago’s modern Arturo Merino Benítez Airport, which receives many direct flights from around the globe, including a half dozen from North America. European arrivals may land in Buenos Aires (EZE) and connect to the south. From Santiago, connections fly south, usually on LATAM Airlines to Puerto Montt (PMC) or to Punta Arenas (PUQ), 1,360 miles south of Santiago. From either city, rental cars, Jeeps, vans (good for families traveling together, with or without guides) and private helicopters are available; public buses run regularly between the major sites and attractions. Bear in mind gas stations can be few and far between, so keep your tank as full as possible. Cruise ships are a growing mode of travel to Patagonia, usually departing from Valparaíso, Chile, or Buenos Aires, Argentina.
not meet another fisherman or group all day. Here in one of the most sparsely populated areas of the world, you need not give up luxury or fine dining to see it. The hotels, restaurants and infrastructure — carefully developed over many years — are eco-friendly and welcome families and groups from around the globe. The range of lodging and restaurants can satisfy almost any budget, although the top accommodations, hotels and guest ranches often fill up a year in advance during peak season (November to March, during their most reliable weather, in summer). To see natural wonders such as the Perito Moreno Glacier or to visit Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world and point of departure for most cruise ships to Antarctica, requires border crossings into Argentina and returns to Chile. Depending on the season, these can be time-consuming and frustrating but generally without major problems or long delays. One popular attraction is the Bariloche Lakes area crossing into Argentina. Beautiful and relaxing, the trek involves multiple boat connections, buses and sometimes several days to complete during high season. To avoid the throngs, some visitors charter their own boat and crew for a leisurely sail on their own schedule and then drive on in a private car. Or for an extra-special view, they can return to their hotel via private helicopter. Visitors can also enjoy the Chilean lakes region without crossing into the Argentinean side; it’s greener and offers many hot springs and rivers under volcanoes. You can reach the area easily by flying in and out of Puerto Montt.
INTO THE WILD:
(Left to right) The Perito Moreno Glacier, Torres del Paine National Park, guanaco and huemul PHOTOS: © SAIKO3P - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SORIN COLAC - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANDREY GUDKOV - DREAMSTIME.COM, © IHERVAS - DREAMSTIME.COM
LODGING HOTEL DON LUIS This Puerto Montt classic is intimate yet geared for business travelers and families, offering good value for groups. Enjoy good local cuisine in its restaurant and proximity to shopping, offices, the boardwalk and nightlife. Quillota 146, Puerto Montt $$ THE SINGULAR PATAGONIA PUERTO BORIES The Singular Patagonia combines luxury, comfort and nature’s beauty
in an all-inclusive at “the end of the world.” Exquisite Patagonian cuisine, full service plus guide service available. Km. 5, 5 Norte S/N, Puerto Natales $$$$ TIERRA PATAGONIA Close to Torres del Paine National Park, overlooking lakes and mountains, this all-inclusive luxury property with spa gives new meaning to “a room with a view” and offers striking architecture in a sustainable lodge. At the edge of Torres del Paine National Park $$$
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FEATHERED FRIENDS:
Penguins on Isla Magdalena PHOTO: © VLADGALENKO DREAMSTIME.COM
DINING CANGREJO ROJO Savor the best of Patagonia’s seafood in a casual nautical setting with live music. This local gem in Puerto Natales also serves excellent lamb and organic wines. 12 Ave. Santiago Bueras 782, Puerto Natales $$ LA CUISINE A unique, intimate restaurant in Punta Arenas melding French preparations with traditional Chilean asado (roasted meats) and seafood. Enjoy the king crab lasagna, various pâtés and crème brûlée for dessert. Reservations recommended. O’Higgins 1037, Punta Arenas $$ RESTAURANT KIEL Enjoy water-view dining and a German twist on Patagonian cuisine, meats and fish. Helga will meet you at the door and review the day’s menu, including fresh veggies from her garden. Camino a Chinquihue Km. 8, Puerto Montt $$$
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Plan at least two days or more for touring Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park, including a safari in search of the Big Five of South America: the puma, guanaco, huemul (South Andean deer), Andean condor and ñandú (rhea). It has been named South America’s most dramatic national park. Accessed generally from Puerto Natales, home of many historic hotel properties, the park remains a must-see for any group or family traveling to Patagonia. For those with the budget, The Singular Patagonia, at the entrance to the Patagonia fjords, is one of the top luxury properties in Chile. From here you can venture to Estancia La Peninsula, a traditional Patagonian ranch offering hiking, riding, 4X4 tours and sheep herding activities. Its extensive barbecue lunch proves a highlight and features local, grass-fed meats, fish and accompaniments. A full day on the ranch offers an activity for everyone in the group. Another top property near the park, Tierra Patagonia, offers its own experiences, both in and out of Torres del Paine. Guests can enjoy a ride, hike or Jeep excursion in the Sierra Baguales Mountains, which includes a visit to Mylodon Cave and the Fossil Canyons. As an additional treat, large herds of wild horses roam this area. Although Chilean Patagonia is a vast outdoor destination, it boasts some cities to visit if you have an urge for the social, cultural, culinary and club scenes only a city can provide. Brush up on your Spanish and meet some locals over a pisco sour, the national cocktail of choice. Three southern Chilean cities merit a visit and a recharge after your outdoor adventures: Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas and Puerto Montt. Consider Puerto Natales the hub for visiting the famous Torres del Paine National Park. This fishing town offers picture-perfect views of the Last Hope Sound channel. Stroll and shop the Plaza de Armas, stop for a warming coffee or meal and visit the Museo
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Histórico Municipal. Early-morning walks on the Avenida Pedro Montt can be dramatic and refreshing as the sun rises. Visitors will find good restaurants and affordable hotels in all categories. Puerto Arenas, the second hub for entry into Torres del Paine and the southernmost of the three, is the oldest city in Patagonia’s development. It grew into a boom town as mining, timber and cattle ranching grew Chile’s economy. Now, 150 years later, what was once one of Chile’s wealthiest cities shows signs of wear and tear but still has much to offer travelers. The Plaza de Armas — the city center and close to the cruise docks — hosts many cafés, bars and nightlife. Many families and groups make the stop here to catch a day boat to the Penguin National Monument on Isla Magdalena, home to more than 120,000 Magellanic penguins. It’s cold and windy but proves one of the highlights of any visit to Patagonia. Upon return, you can warm up at Club Madero, a famous local dance club. Puerto Montt, the fastest-growing city in Chile, is the base for travel to Chile’s Lake District. Many cruise lines visit its port, and passengers scramble to shop the central city as business travelers visit offices and entertain in the many asado (grilled meat) and seafood restaurants. Visitors can book daytrips to Volcán Osorno (an active volcano) or several local beach towns and Puerto Varas. Puerto Montt offers a choice of restaurants and hotels, as you would expect in a booming tourist town, as well as the most active bar and club scene in Chilean Patagonia. As it receives guests from around the world, LGBTQ+ visitors are welcome in most bars and clubs, but Chile remains a conservative country with strong family values, and the locals and tourists share the same establishments, especially restaurants. Puerto Montt offers direct air service to Santiago, a plus for groups and families. Wherever you go in Patagonia, remember to dress warmly, and don’t let the weather blow you away.
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bucket list | GUATEMALA
Active Adventure View the power of nature as you hike Guatemala’s Pacaya Volcano. BY JACK GUY
HIGH ENERGY: (Left to right) Trekking trail of Acatenango Volcano, looking from Pacaya to Acatenango Volcano, and lava erupting from Fuego Volcano PHOTOS: © KANOKRAT TAWOKHAT| DREAMSTIME.COM, © DREWRAWCLIFFE - DREAMSTIME .COM,© LUCY BROWN DREAMSTIME.COM,
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THE SMALL CENTRAL AMERICAN nation of Guatemala packs a huge number of attractions into an area about the size of Tennessee. Chief among them are the volcanoes which loom over the Western Highlands of the country in a spectacular spine running from the border with Mexico in the north to El Salvador in the south. While nearly 40 of these incredible geographical features reside in Guatemala, Pacaya is one of the best-known. One of just three active volcanoes in the country, it recorded several amazing eruptions in the last 50 years, some covering nearby towns in a blanket of ash. You’ll be pleased to hear the last eruption took place in 2010, and the volcano now offers a popular daytrip for visitors from both Guatemala City and Antigua. Just more than an hour by car from each of these cities, Pacaya proves supremely accessible. Regular group tours depart from both Guatemala City, the capital, and Antigua, the colonial city many visitors use as a base. You can make your own way to the welcome center in the village of San Francisco de Sales, pay
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the 50 quetzales (about $6.50) entrance fee and hire an obligatory guide, with the price subject to negotiation. But it’s more convenient to join a tour with everything included; you’ll usually pay $15–20 with tour operators. Most tours leave at 6 a.m. or 2 p.m. to avoid climbing during the hottest hours of the day, and you’ll soon see why. Even though the altitude takes the edge off the Central American heat, you’ll still spend two hours walking uphill on black volcanic rock. The summit of the volcano sits 8,573 feet above sea level, and you will gain 1,500 feet in elevation over the course of the hike. The moderately difficult route features some loose, sandy sections that prove tiring, but the locals are on hand to help out if needed. Local children offer hiking sticks for rent for less than a dollar, and you can choose to ride a mule to the top if you can’t take on the hike. You don’t need to bring much gear aside from a sturdy pair of shoes and a light jacket to keep the wind off your skin, and local people sell a variety of snacks if you need an energy boost on the way up.
While you may have seen photos of red-hot lava running down the slopes of Pacaya, these rivers of molten rock have cooled and solidified since the 2010 eruption. This makes the volcano safer to visit, and the spectacular view over the surrounding mountains and valleys more than compensates for the lack of lava. To appreciate the power of the volcano, many guides hand out marshmallows which you can toast over one of the many vents, providing a tantalizing tease of the energy that sits below the rocks. One of the best times to visit Pacaya is in November, the beginning of the dry season in Guatemala, when the area surrounding the volcano is lush and verdant with new growth. You’ll climb through the forest on the lower slopes before emerging onto the exposed volcanic rock and looking down over the incredible view below. Your guide will take you to look at the lava “sea” left behind by eruptions, and you can gaze over the volcano chain leading north to Fuego and Acatenango, two other well-known volcanoes near Antigua.
Fuego remains incredibly active and caused mass evacuations in 2018 due to a huge eruption. Tourists aren’t allowed to climb it for safety reasons, but you can summit Acatenango to look down over the crater of Fuego, which sits nearby. Those with the time to summit both volcanoes should look into staying at the eco-friendly Kawalil Hotel, a lodge in the town of Amatitlán on the road from Guatemala City to Pacaya. The adjoining Santa Teresita Spa offers the perfect place to loosen up those weary legs after a long hike. Hiking Pacaya provides a great way to appreciate the power of volcanoes without committing to a multiday trip or investing in loads of technical gear. With such great views from the top, easy access and just enough difficulty to make you feel like you’ve achieved something after the hike, it’s no wonder it’s one of the most famous tourist attractions in Guatemala. You can even book a tour online before you travel for the ultimate peace of mind.
INFO TO GO
The closest international airport to Pacaya is La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City. It offers daily flights to U.S. hubs such as Atlanta (ATL) and New York (JFK) as well as other destinations in Mexico, Central and South America. It is possible to travel by bus from the airport to Pacaya, but it involves lots of walking and multiple transfers. The easiest way to transfer is to get a private taxi, an Uber or a shared shuttle service to either Guatemala City center or Antigua.
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kicking back | COSTA RICA
Primeval Treasure
Discover the abundant biodiversity of Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula. BY TIM LEFFEL NATURAL STATE:
(Left to right)), An agouti, a capuchin monkey, a kayaking excursion, a deserted beach, a coati and a hawk PHOTOS: © TIM LEFFEL
INFO TO GO
Two small airports, at Puerto Jiménez (PJM) and Golfito (GLF), serve domestic prop plane flights from San José (SJO). Golfito can also be reached by road from Costa Rica or Panama.
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IN HOW MANY PLACES can you see wild monkeys and tropical birds on a walk from your room to the dining area? On how many hikes can you spot a sloth and a blue morpho butterfly before your first sip of water? In the wildlife-packed Osa Peninsula region of Costa Rica, the animals in a square kilometer can outnumber the tourists visiting the entire region. Costa Rica has a well-deserved reputation as the greenest country in the Americas. Around 28 percent of the small country’s land has been designated a park or nature reserve. The country with no army is one of the most biodiverse areas of the planet. It’s difficult to even get a handle on the number of species, but best guesses put it at around 850 species of birds, some 400 species of reptiles and amphibians, and about 230 types of mammals. Then there are the plants, with more than 1,000 types of orchids alone. It’s not unusual for someone with deep pockets to buy
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hundreds of acres of land in this country just to ensure it stays off-limits to developers. That’s the case in the Osa Peninsula, where the large Corcovada National Park is joined by 20 other protected areas — some privately owned, some public — to make up the extensive Osa Conservation Area. One of those protected reserves flanks Lapa Rios Lodge, where my family stayed on a nature vacation. After our prop plane flight south from the capital of San José, we landed at the small Puerto Jiménez Airport and boarded a Land Rover for our ride to the lodge. On the way, our driver pulled up to a tree so we could see the dozen scarlet macaws flapping their wings and squawking there. This seemed like a good omen, since the place we were headed was named after “scarlet rivers” in the sky — lapa is the local word for the red tropical bird and rio means river. Before we even made our way to our room after arrival, we spotted agoutis on a path, a huge toucan on a branch
and a few howler monkeys moving through the trees. Lapa Rios sits on 1,000 acres of pristine wilderness extending from the deep jungle down to the sea, with only a tiny fraction of it devoted to the 17-bungalow lodge. Established in 1993, it aims to serve as an eco-friendly vacation spot that brings visitors close to nature in wild Costa Rica. Guests see plenty of wildlife and explore the forests with the hope they develop an appreciation for preserving what’s left of Central America’s biodiversity. While on our day hikes we saw a wet sloth in a tree, capuchin monkeys, aracaris, toucans and a coral snake. At certain times of year, whales breach just off the end of the peninsula and in the gulf. Down on the beach, our daughter got to experience both the good side of nature and the bad. She had fun corralling the hermit crabs and building obstacles for them to crawl over but then returned to the lodge bawling after getting stung in the water by a jellyfish. The protected land areas of the Osa region, which straddle the deep Golfo Dulce, remain a wildlife haven thanks to the extensive connected land mass providing corridors for movement. It’s
large enough for even the biggest of the big cats to roam. While visitors are not likely to spot a king of the jungle out on a casual hike, this is the only place in the hemisphere that supports all five species of endemic big cats: margay, ocelot, jaguarund, puma and jaguar. The Osa Conservation group set up camera traps in 20 different locations to get a sense of numbers and track movement. We did keep our eyes peeled on the night hike after grabbing boots and a flashlight, hoping to defy the odds. Instead, we spotted parrots with their eyes closed, sleeping while still standing upright on branches. We saw colorful spotted frogs in the leaf cover and, occasionally, a small, slithering snake. Feeling drawn back to the area, I returned twice more to the Osa Peninsula on other trips. While parts of Costa Rica seem like well-oiled vacation machines putting visitors through an assembly line, this area still feels wild, alive, out of control — in a good way. “We have to really lock the food and drinks up well,” the manager told me at the nine-room Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge. “There are monkeys and wild pigs in these woods that we don’t want visiting camp because they can find easy handouts.” The 165 acres
LODGING Lapa Rios Lodge The original upscale jungle lodge of the region with a pool, beach, bar and restaurant. Cabo Matapalo, Puerto Jiménez $$$$$ Playa Cativo Lodge This full-service eco-resort boasts attentive service, 180-degree gulf views and miles of trails to explore. Golfo Dulce $$$$$ Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge Reached by boat and surrounded by mountainous forest, this is one of the greenest lodges in Costa Rica. Punta Nicuesa $$$$
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AMONG THE TREES:
A peccary (top left), a toucan (top right), and a scarlet macaw in a tree (bottom) PHOTOS: © TIM LEFFEL
DINING EL GAVILÁN RESTAURANT Enjoy a gourmet farm-to-table dining experience during a stay at the luxury Playa Cativo Lodge. Fresh, organic produce is harvested daily from the on-site farm. Accessible only by boat. Playa Cativo Lodge, Golfo Dulce $$$ MARISQUERIA CORCOVADO This is the top seafood restaurant in Puerto Jiménez if you’re looking for a spot after landing or before departure; it offers a water view. Oceandrive Blvd., Puerto Jiménez $$$ MAR Y LUNA GOLFITO Enjoy large portions of seafood and ceviche with good cocktails on the water in the port town of Golfito. Road 14, Golfito $$–$$$
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of their own and the Piedras Blancas National Park beyond that provide plenty of habitat for critters looking for a meal. When I went for a walk in the forest near Playa Nicuesa, I saw squirrel monkeys rustling in the trees and lizards fornicating beside the path. Hearing strange animal noises in the distance, I followed a path in the direction they seemed to be coming from. The otherworldly sounds were unnerving, so I crept slowly to avoid being seen. Once I got there, I breathed a sigh of relief. It was a pack of peccaries arguing over the food they found. The vacation experience at these nature lodges is comfortable but more sustainable than at most regular hotels, even in progressive Costa Rica. There are no plastic water bottles or TVs, and most of the energy comes from wind, solar or hydro sources. Candles and low-wattage bulbs are the norm. Much of the food is grown on site or bought from local producers. Common snacks are chips made from cassava, plantain or another local plant that can be sliced and fried. All the resorts in the region are self-contained since they can only be reached by boat or fourwheel drive. Rates usually include all meals at a single restaurant, served at set times. Expect a lot of fresh, locally sourced food served with care. I also traveled to Playa Cativo Lodge, reached by boat from Golfito. Fronting a calm bay with views of the Osa Peninsula from some of the rooms, this resort features a swimming pool and one of the best restaurants in the region. I spotted wild pigs here as well, plus a golden-naped woodpecker and a long list of tropical birds. When I took a stand-up paddleboard out for a leisurely trip
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along the shore, two dolphins swam by, and a sea turtle poked his head up to check me out. On my last trip to the region, I saw the Osa Peninsula by both land and sea. On an UnCruise small-ship tour along the coasts of Panama and Costa Rica, the itinerary included two nights and days around the Gulfo Dulce and the peninsula. We visited the House of Orchids botanical garden to see hundreds of plants and visiting birds, then paddleboarded up a mangrove-lined river to find rays visible below the water. At a landing on the far side of the peninsula, we went for a hike to a secluded creek for a swim and passed sandy beaches with no resorts or houses. They remain in a natural state, waiting for the sea turtles who come to lay their eggs each year. In the afternoon after we set up on one of these deserted beaches, I went for a hike along the shore to see what I could find. Eventually I headed toward a tree hosting a noisy commotion. I looked up to find a pair of scarlet macaws, tying my first trip to the last in this region teeming with wildlife.
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lgbtq+
Doing Good LGBTQ+ travelers discover diverse eco-friendly voluntourism options. VOLUNTOURISM, A FAIRLY NEW TERM, refers to tourism that includes a volunteer or philanthropic component. Its popularity continues to grow thanks to heightened awareness about environmental issues. LGBTQ+ travelers are among those who find an increasingly diverse array of options, making it easy to take part in gay-friendly, eco-friendly, volunteer-oriented vacations that prove both enjoyable and rewarding. REI Adventures, a company that promotes inclusivity and supports events like the LGBTQ Outdoor Summit, offers a series of volunteer vacations in a number of far-reaching destinations. Participants can help repair and maintain trails in places like Yosemite, Alaska and Patagonia; assist with archaeological restoration and the removal of invasive species at Machu Picchu; and work to preserve sea turtles in the Galápagos Islands. REI reports registration surged some 40 percent over the past year. Hands Up Holidays offers what it calls “luxury voluntourism” options in several destinations popular with LGBTQ+ travelers. In New Zealand, for example, visitors work with penguin conservation programs; in Thailand, groups work to protect elephants and their habitats; and in San Francisco, participants help to restore native plant and animal habitats. The state of California, in fact, offers a surprising number of voluntourism options in or near gay-popular vacation destinations. At Catalina Island, travelers can join voluntourism programs with the Catalina Conservancy, which offers everything from one-day to week-long experiences that include beach cleanups and native planting initiatives. Scuba divers can even join an underwater cleanup that removes trash from Avalon Harbor. Travelers looking to combine volunteer activities with pampering might consider heading to Miami Beach, where The Palms Hotel & Spa has a two-night Do Good, Feel Good offer. The program includes participation in beach cleanups in partnership with International Coastal Cleanup, an organization that collects millions of pounds of trash every year with the help of nearly 800,000 volunteers. The hotel offer also includes a daily breakfast buffet, a stand-up paddleboarding lesson and a $50 per-person credit at the Aveda spa. After all, there’s no reason you shouldn’t feel good after you do good.
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BY MARK CHESNUT
NATURAL ABUNDANCE: Elephant bathing (top), The Palms Hotel & Spa’s Chef Ilde Ferrer in the garden (bottom left), and penguin (bottom right) PHOTOS: © HANDS UP HOLIDAYS, © THE PALMS HOTEL & SPA, © HANDS UP HOLIDAYS
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aiport update
Airport of the Future Oslo Airport takes the lead for environmentally friendly aviation. BY ERICH MARTIN A LOT OF RECENT TALK surrounding sustainability and environmentalism seems directly concerned with travel and searching for ways to make air travel more environmentally friendly. Oslo Gardermoen Airport has worked to that end since it began service in 1998. Norway’s busiest airport acts as a hub for Scandinavian Airlines and Widerøe. The airport also serves as an operating base for Norwegian Air Shuttle and connects 26 destinations in Norway and 152 destinations internationally. When it originally opened, Oslo Airport was intended to handle 17 million passengers annually. In 2013 the airport served nearly 23 million. On April 27, 2017, an airport expansion debuted, allowing the facility to serve its current traffic of 32 million passengers each year. Since the completion of the expansion project, Oslo Airport deliberately positioned itself as a role model for other airports when it comes to environmental issues. The expansion, for instance, was designed and operates as close to carbon-neutral as possible. As it turns to the future, Gardermoen follows a roadmap to staying green. On one count, the airport continues to pursue increased use of renewable energy. On another, it maintains an absolute requirement of preventing the activities of the airport from impacting groundwater. Chemicals that treat surfaces during icy and otherwise bad weather have the potential to cause disastrous effects on the local groundwater supply. To protect this resource, airport crews gather and treat surface water before it can contaminate groundwater. The airport employs a number of initiatives to remain as carbonneutral as possible. A large amount of recycled materials and climatefriendly insulation materials go a long way toward sustainability. Wooden roofing, in place of the standard metal, offers just one piece of the equation. Oslo Airport’s next goal includes expanding the railway system
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serving the airport. In 2013 65 percent of Oslo’s passengers arrived and departed via public transportation. By 2020 the airport hopes 70 percent of passengers will utilize the public transportation system. Finally, unique processes for heating and cooling the airport really set Oslo apart from other airports all over the world. Facilities collect sewage from the municipalities of northern Ullensaker and Nannestad and the airport itself. Treating the wastewater and transferring it to the airport creates heat. To cool the expanded terminal, snow removed from runways in the winter is collected and stored in underground basins. The water from the melting snow cools the terminal in the summer. Oslo Gardermoen Airport stands out among contemporaries. Whereas other airports eventually might be forced into regulation by governmental agencies, the airport and its managing body, Avinor, take the lead. The planet has a long way to go before air travel stops impacting the environment in a harmful way, but with Oslo and others taking the reins on things like sustainable fuel, that future may be closer than it seems.
SOARING AHEAD: Oslo Gardermoen Airport
PHOTO: © AVINOR - ESPEN SOLLI
OSLO AIRPORT avinor.no/en/ airport/oslo-airport
health
Face the Facts Bell’s palsy can affect anyone at any age. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN
BELL’S PALSY IS A NERVE DISORDER that usually occurs without warning. This condition happens when the nerve that controls facial muscle movement becomes swollen, inflamed or compressed. Damage to this nerve — called the facial nerve or the seventh cranial nerve — causes weakness and paralysis of facial muscles. With approximately 40,000 U.S. cases each year, Bell’s palsy affects men and women equally and occurs at any age, although it is less common before age 15 or after age 60. It disproportionately attacks people with diabetes or upper respiratory ailments such as the flu or a cold. Infections called herpes zoster and herpes simplex might be involved. Other conditions that may cause Bell’s palsy include HIV/AIDS infection, Lyme disease, middle ear infection, mononucleosis and sarcoidosis (inflammation of the lymph nodes, lungs, liver, eyes and skin). Bell’s palsy occurs more often in pregnant women, especially in the third trimester or in the first week after giving birth. Some patients have a cold shortly before the symptoms of Bell’s palsy begin. Symptoms most often start suddenly but may take up to two to three days to show up. They do not become more severe after that time. Symptoms appear almost always on one side of the face only and may range from mild to severe. Many people feel discomfort behind the ear before noticing the muscle weakness. The face feels stiff or pulled to one side and may look different. The lack of control over facial muscles can
cause symptoms such as difficulty closing one eye; difficulty eating or drinking (food falls out of one side of the mouth); drooling; drooping of the face such as the eyelid and corner of the mouth; problems smiling, grimacing and making facial expressions; and twitching or weakness. Other symptoms include dry eye, dry mouth, headache if there is an infection, loss of taste, and hearing sound louder in one ear. Call your health care provider immediately or go to the emergency department of your hospital to make sure this is not a stroke. The health care provider will take a history and perform an assessment. Blood work can determine the presence of medical problems such as Lyme disease which may cause Bell’s palsy. Sometimes an electromyography or nerve conduction test is needed to check the nerves that supply the face. You may need a CT scan or MRI of the head if your provider suspects a brain tumor may be causing your symptoms. Often, no treatment is needed for Bell’s palsy. Symptoms may begin to improve right away, though it may take weeks or months for the facial muscles to get stronger. Your health care provider may prescribe lubricating eye drops or ointment to keep the surface of the affected eye moist if you cannot close it completely. You may need to wear an eye patch while you sleep or during the day. Your provider may prescribe medications such as corticosteroids (prednisone) which may reduce swelling around the facial nerve. Other medications include valacyclovir to fight the
virus that may cause the condition. Physical therapy, facial massage therapy or acupuncture may be prescribed. Complications of Bell’s palsy include corneal abrasions, infections and vision loss because the eye surface is dry, or swelling in the muscles due to loss of nerve function. When first diagnosed with Bell’s palsy, it is important to get plenty of rest even if you have no other symptoms. You should also maintain a healthy diet. If you work or attend school, it may be necessary to take time off to recover. Eye care is important. Excessive watering of the eye may be a sign of a dry eye problem. Eating and drinking may be difficult in the early stages. When your face is not working as it should, it is tempting to try to force the muscles back to work by doing facial exercises. Do not carry out exercises without professional help, as you may do more harm than good. Gently massaging your facial muscles is helpful. Most cases go away completely within a few months. If you do not lose all your nerve function and symptoms begin to improve within three weeks, you are more likely to regain all or most of your strength in your facial muscles. Some people may continue to experience long-term changes in taste, spasms of the eyelid muscles or facial muscle weakness. There is no way to prevent Bell’s palsy. It is rare for it to recur; but if it does, you may have a family history of recurrent attacks, suggesting a possible genetic predisposition to Bell’s palsy.
The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.
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Located in the picturesque Sierra Nevada mountain range on the border between northwestern Nevada and California, Lake Tahoe offers a postcard-perfect destination for nature lovers. Learn more about Lake Tahoe next month as you read Kicking Back: Lake Tahoe. PHOTO: © RAFAŁ CICHAWA - DREAMSTIME.COM
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globaltravelerusa.com
APRIL 2019
An
urban resort in Los Angeles offering luxurious accommodations, California French dining, newly redesigned bar with live entertainment, spacious meeting rooms, complimentary high-speed internet, spa and salon services, fitness center and more.
SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS | 8555 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CA 90048 | 310-278-5444 WWW.SOFITEL-LOS-ANGELES.COM