February 2018 Global Traveler

globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

February 2018

GOING IT ALONE

For an assortment of reasons, more travelers choose to journey on their own. p. 46

BELIZE p. 74 BUDAPEST p. 68 DALLAS p. 60 KUALA LUMPUR p. 54 MIAMI p. 66 NEW YORK CITY p. 64 TAIWAN p. 72 VIENNA p. 62

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

WAYS TO GO I WRITE THIS AS I LOOK OUTSIDE my office window at snow-covered ground, dreading the moment I need to bundle up to head outside to bone-chilling temperatures. We’re in the midst of a long arctic blast in the Northeast, which leaves me longing for the sunny weather and gorgeous views we had the opportunity to enjoy on our recent trip to Los Angeles. It’s a TRAVEL TEAM: rare occasion I find myself communi(Left to right) Patty Vanikiotis, Janice Hecht, Kimberly Krol and Tracey Cullen atop the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills cating in person with Tracey Cullen, PHOTO: © RICHARD EVANS art director; Jan Hecht, senior editor; and Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor and proofreader, as we usually work as a team virtually from our respective corners of the world, so the chance to enjoy lunch together only made the perfect weather and pristine vista all the sweeter.

Speaking of winter, do you look to escape the cold, or do you seek it out? Is your favored winter vacation destination a tropical beach, or are you hitting the slopes and searching for snow?

Personally, a late January jaunt to Miami was in order. Before departing, I took note of some of the suggestions in Regina Baraban’s article on South Beach. Turn to page 66 to check out her recommendations.

Where else do we visit in this issue? It’s truly a global adventure: from a spa in Riviera Maya, Mexico, to Mediterranean cruises and a restaurant with a view in Waikiki. We also experience Buenos Aires, Kuala Lumpur, Dallas, Vienna, New York City, Budapest, Taiwan and Belize.

For more on Austria, visit our three websites — globaltravelerusa.com, trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com — which will all feature articles about the country throughout the month.

A continuing trend in the world of travel is solo travel. We take a look at the phenomenon on page 46. However you prefer to travel — on your own, with a significant other, with your family or in a large group — we’ve got you covered next month, when we go from Tokyo to Managua to Durban. See you there!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Digital Coordinator ALLIE MENZIONE allie.menzione@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

REGINA BARABAN RON BERNTHAL MEGAN HILL ILONA KAUREMSZKY SHARON KING HOGE DALE LEATHERMAN KARIN LEPERI FELICITY LONG KATIE MCELVEEN CHADNER NAVARRO RICHARD NEWTON lively ALLISON VOIGTS Visit the

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

eet Fény Str d Market an e classic sample th street Hungarian s: fried go 'n la od fo ed with dough sopp m and ea cr ur so ead cheese. R t more abou t on Budapes page 68.

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS

CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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letter from the publisher ® ®

MARKING THE MILESTONES AS WE CLOSE THE FEBRUARY ISSUE and look forward to warmer weather here on the East Coast, I am reminded this marks the beginning of the 15th year of publishing Global Traveler.

Fifteen is a magical number; little did I know in 2004 we would reach such great successes and milestones. I cannot tell you all the places I traveled over the past 15 years (and where I have yet to go), let alone what trips the entire staff here at FXExpress Publications, Inc. enjoyed.

We continue to extend the brand identity, adding millennial and family travel TEE TIME: Francis X. Gallagher at the Royal St. Kitts Golf Club to our cache of editorial products. You PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER are probably tired of hearing me praise Global Traveler, globaltravelerusa.com, trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com, but I am proud of the success.

When we launched GT, we were the true underdog in the industry, but over the years we became the consistent true source for real travelers of all kinds. Make sure you check out this issue’s solo travel article. I can identify with people who want to just go and not negotiate with others about where to go, but they need to know which places are safe or offer the best value.

I recall a trip to Turkey more than 20 years ago when a couple we were to travel with backed out at the last minute. We went anyway and had the time of our lives exploring ancient Roman ruins and floating in the Mediterranean. So get up and go, solo or not. Sometimes you have to “kick a little” to get people to come with you — just take charge!

We believe in listening to our readers; sometimes a spark of an idea becomes a new product. Both Trazee Travel and WhereverFamily evolved in response to readers’ desires. Often we create the desire, reminding our clients families travel with all different ages and different modes and classes of travel to different places around the world. We listen further to readers’ opinions of the best in travel through the reader surveys for each platform, including our newest award, Cruise Line of the Year. We add this award to the Airline of the Year and Hotel of the Year awards we’ve recognized for the past seven years, won most recently by American Airlines and Lotte Hotels.

Thank you for your continued support, travel and readership. Enjoy the spring, and happy St. Valentine’s Day!

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales WILLIAM PAPA tel 267 884 1650 | william.papa@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive ASHLEY RICHARDS tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | ashley.richards@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive, Western Region KAITLIND EYDELLOTH tel 267 798 5554 | kaitlind.eydelloth@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive JULIE HAUPIN tel 267 364 5811 ext 210 | julie.haupin@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Coordinator ANDREW RISCH tel 267 364 5811 ext 201 | andrew.risch@globaltravelerusa.com REPRESENTATIVES Egypt CARMEN DOYLE and HASSAN SHEHAB tel 61 0 403866188 carmen.doyle@afrozinternational.com hassan.shehab@afrozinternational.com France, The Netherlands JEREMY PRADERIO-REGIE tel 09 54 20 09 50 | cell 06 07 96 54 15 j.praderio@regiepem.com Germany MICHAELA JUSTI tel 49 69 56 02 01 21 | fax 49 69 56 02 01 23 | cell 49 171 20 29 502 justi@mediasalescompany.de India FAREDOON KUKA tel 91 22 2925 3735 | cell 91 98200 85045 kuka@rmamedia.com Japan YOSHIZUMI MIYAKE, MEDIAHOUSE INC. tel 3 3222 7811 | fax 3 3234 1140 miyake@mediahs.com HIDETADA KOCHI tel 81 3 3222 7811 | cell 81 3 90 8774 9800 fax 81 3 3234 1140 kochi@mediahs.com Mexico CARLOS ALBERTO FRIAS tel 52 55 5254-4490 afrias@fgasociados.mx New York City MIKE EDISON tel 201 819 1510 | medison@saintsmarketing.co DIANE HOMER tel 646 529 7254 | dhomer@saintsmarketing.co

FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

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FEBRUARY 2018

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Discover a Hidden Side of Japan Venture outside of Tokyo to discover the wonders of Yamaguchi.

and easily, and spend your afternoon exploring Kintaikyo. A series of wooden arches — a rare sight outside of Japan — masterful Kintaikyo is a culmination of techniques and traditions.

Visit some other nearby attractions, including Iwakuni Castle, Iwakuni Art Museum where you can sense the Japanese spirit with precious armors and Japanese swords exhibited, put on

by Samurai in the Sengoku (end of the 15th to the middle of the 16th century) and late Edo (middle of the 19th century) periods. The Iwakuni Shirohebi (White Snake) Museum is a National Natural Monument and the only place in the world inhabited by the Iwakuni white snake.

Tsunoshima Bridge

JUST A SHORT FLIGHT from the skyscrapers and metropolitan experiences of bustling Tokyo, travelers discover the charms of Yamaguchi’s nature and landscapes. Time spent in both areas allows visitors the opportunity to understand and fall in love with the many charms of each destination.

Get to know Japan better with this four-day itinerary. Indulge all your senses.

TOKYO

DAY THREE, YAMAGUCHI Continue your exploration of Yamaguchi at the Tsunoshima Bridge, crossing the cobalt blue of the Amagase Sea. At nearly 6,000 feet, it is one of the longest bridges in Japan that can be crossed for free.

The bridge is part of the Kita-Nagato Kaigan Quasi-National Park so travelers can also enjoy the growing crinum asiaticums and the Tsunoshima Lighthouse, built in 1876 and one of the three major lighthouses of Japan for night viewing.

YAMAGUCHI

About 1 h 40 min. by airplane

in the heart of Tokyo. Its indoor observation gallery, more than 800 feet above sea level, and outdoor Sky Deck, close to 900 feet high, offer breathtaking views of the city’s skyscrapers, like Tokyo Tower and TOKYO SKYTREE.

Tokyo City View

DAY ONE, TOKYO Begin your day on the Tokyo Panoramic Drive (Hato Bus), spotting the signature spots of the metropolis, including Tokyo Tower, Toranomon Hills, National Diet Building, Rainbow Bridge, Tsukiji and Ginza. The view is spectacular, especially of Rainbow Bridge. You’ll feel as though you’re flying over the exciting city.

Allow yourself a chance to truly soar by taking in the views from Tokyo City View, located

DAY TWO, TOKYO AND YAMAGUCHI From Tokyo, Yamaguchi is a short, about onehour and 40-minute flight. Travel from Haneda Airport to Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport quickly

Kintaikyo

DAY FOUR, YAMAGUCHI AND TOKYO Before departing to Tokyo, savor your last moments in Yamaguchi at Karato Market. The first floor turns into public seafood stalls every Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and on national holidays. It’s a perfect gathering spot to enjoy the festive atmosphere and indulge in exceptional Japanese delicacies, like sushi, blowfish soup and blowfish sashimi.

Guide to Chugoku, Shikoku and Tokyo: chushikokuandtokyo.org

TOKYO Panoramic Drive (Hato Bus)

Guide to Japan and Tokyo: tourism-alljapanandtokyo.org

contents

February 2018 42

64

60

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

42 Reasons to Smile Alaska Airlines expands routes and fleets exponentially.

54 Destination One: Kuala Lumpur Kuala Lumpur transforms into a world-class city for business and pleasure.

46 Going It Alone For an assortment of reasons, more travelers choose to journey on their own.

60 Stateside: Dallas Dallas flourishes with diverse business and job opportunities.

50 Perpetual Motion Buenos Aires bustles with amenities for global meetings and events.

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FEBRUARY 2018

ON THE COVER

62 9–5: Vienna Get to know clients in Austria’s cultural and financial hub.

64 After 5: New York City New York City hums with fun around the clock.

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globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

February 2018

GOING IT ALONE For an assortment of reasons, more travelers choose to journey on their own. p. 46

BELIZE p. 74 BUDAPEST p. 68 DALLAS p. 60 KUALA LUMPUR p. 54 MIAMI p. 66 NEW YORK CITY p. 64 TAIWAN p. 72 VIENNA p. 62

COVER PHOTO: SOLO TRAVEL IN OIA, SANTORÍNI, GREECE © MARTINMARK | DREAMSTIME.COM

PHOTOS: © JESSAMINE | DREAMSTIME, © ALAKSA AIRLINES, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME, © ERIK LATTWEIN | DREAMSTIME

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contents

February 2018

68

72

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

23 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 78 81

10 13 16 21

66 Neighborhoods: Miami Discover cultural, culinary and eco-minded hot spots in this thriving Miami Beach neighborhood.

Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Tours Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health

Mail Call News Reviews One on One TAP Air Portugal 22 One on One Kempinski Mall of the Emirates 80 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

68 Friends & Family: Budapest Budapest entices with river views, architectural splendor and tasty cuisine.

72 Bucket List: Taiwan Watch in wonder as your wishes soar skyward at a Taiwan lantern festival.

74 Kicking Back: Belize Indulge in the laid-back pace of Caye Caulker’s Caribbean paradise.

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FEBRUARY 2018

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2018 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © SOMNIPHOBIAC | DREAMSTIME, © OUT ADVENTURES, © ROBERTO NENCINI | DREAMSTIME,© RICHIE CHAN | DREAMSTIME

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mail call DECEMBER Q&A WITH TRACEY CULLEN

Q&A WITH PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS, ASSOCIATE EDITOR

In the December 2017 issue, Tracey Cullen, art director, talked about all-inclusive resorts and cruises.

While these are usually something Cullen avoided, she recently enjoyed a stay at Grand Velas Riviera Maya in Mexico, which she loved for its amazing dining venue variety. She asked: “How do you feel about all-inclusives? Have you been to one you would recommend to others?”

Like Ms. Cullen, we usually steer clear of all-inclusives for hotels.

Some have better food than others, but sometimes it’s like going to a chain restaurant, where they’re serving quantity over quality. That being said, on cruises we usually opt for an all-inclusive package of some kind. I think you get a better value on cruises as opposed to hotels. The prices on most cruise lines are astronomical, and when you’re on the ocean, the only thing to do is eat and drink.

TIM LARANGE, via email I think every property is different. I’ve stayed at some great all-inclusives where I still enjoyed great food and entertainment, and I’ve stayed at some where I’ve had watered-down drinks and food no better than I would eat at home.

I think it depends on the size of the resort or hotel in which you’re staying — a massive all-inclusive resort is bound to offer some sub-par food and drinks, considering the quantity they’re serving. A

As I write this, my husband and I wrap up a New Year’s holiday tradition established over the past several years. We convene with two other couples, longtime friends, to enjoy three or four days on the Oregon coast. We indulge in plenty of good food and wine, football, laughter, reminiscing and making new memories as we start the New Year. While we enjoy the chance to visit galleries and boutiques and stroll the beach (weather permitting), the location really is secondary to the opportunity to kick back with good friends.

Do you find yourself returning over and over to a favorite destination, perhaps a family vacation spot or personal retreat? What was the original draw to the place, and what continues to call you back there?

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

boutique resort, though, may be well worth paying for all-inclusive.

I love Riviera Maya and may just have to check out Grand Velas.

RHONDA CURRAN, via email

ABOVE AND BEYOND I love the December issue. My husband and I both voted in the GT Tested Reader Survey. I actually voted for American Airlines for quite a few things, and I see it won for Airline of the Year — that’s great! I wrote it in for Best Airline for Domestic First Class. I love the layout and seats. I also voted it Best Airline for Business Class, but I’m sure Turkish is great; I hope to fly it at some point. I personally prefer the AAdvantage program to MileagePlus for the Best Overall Frequent-Flyer Program, but my husband voted for MileagePlus for its upgrade program.

I look forward to these awards every year. I like comparing year over year and seeing the consecutive winners and upsets.

Congratulations to IHG for knocking out Sheraton Hotels & Resorts after 13 years!

EVELYN HART, via email I love Aeromexico and completely agree with its win for Best Airline in Mexico. It has great food in first class and extremely friendly attendants. I’ve also flown LATAM with good experiences, and I’ve heard good things about Avianca.

KATIE WILLIS, via email Nothing beats Lotte. Beautiful hotels, exceptional service and some of the best food anywhere. Well-deserved wins.

SCOTT PHILLIPS, via email

I’d be interested to learn what qualifies airports as “best” in these awards. I only say that because airports like Chicago O’Hare, Singapore Changi and Hartsfield-Jackson are always insanely busy, yet they ranked highly. Is it location, convenience, number of flights?

JENSON HARRIS, via email

POISED FOR POSSIBILITY Portland’s one of my favorite places in the world — great small hotels, art scene, restaurants and people. The airport could use a facelift, so I was glad to read that’s in the works, and I loved the scenic drives tips. I’ll keep them in mind for my next visit, usually once or twice a year to visit friends.

LYDIA LEWIS, via email

DEBORAH RANDOLPH, via email

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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FEBRUARY 2018

Thank You for Voting

THE COOK ISLANDS THE BEST ISLAND PACIFIC RIM TWO YEARS IN A ROW

Second Consecutive Year

www.cookislands.travel

PLUS TRAVEL WITH APP-TITUDE

www.globaltraveleru

mail call

Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINE

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

A LOOK BACK AT 2017 In our Dec. 27, 2017, issue of eFlyer USA, we reflected on a year of headlines and events in travel — the good, the bad and the ugly.

One reader responds to the events of 2017.

Wow. Looking back on everything, it’s hard to believe that all happened in one year. The great thing, though, is that everything moves forward, including travel. Politics, weather, business problems aside, people will always want to see the world. Unfortunately, there are still many coping with the aftermath of the storms and fires, but tourism will only help most of these places as they recover.

MARY LOU REAMES, via email

MARRIOTT 2018 The new Marriott hotels opening in 2018 sound great. I’m a big Marriott fan, and they seem to be popping up everywhere. I’m actually heading to Nashville in May, so I’m hoping the new JW will be open by then.

I know Rosewood is also opening a new hotel in Santa Barbara that’s supposed to be beautiful. Looking forward to updates!

LOUIS SCOTT, via email

LIAM FULLER, via email

HOLI-DELAYS

LIGHTS OUT IN ATLANTA

In our Dec. 20, 2017, issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on an AirHelp study. The air passenger rights organization and flight compensation company reviewed data from hundreds of thousands of flights from the 2016 holiday season to help travelers plan ahead for the 2017 season.

I wish I could say AirHelp was helpful, but it’s the same every year — airports are nightmares, and the traffic getting to them is even worse. I usually find myself in or around LAX in December, and the whole month is more congested than usual, whether it’s holiday travel or people seeking an escape from the cold. All I recommend is give yourself more time than you think is necessary — worst-case scenario is you’re early and you can get some work done and enjoy a good meal and a cocktail.

OWEN COLLINS, via email People think delays only happen in the winter in colder states because of snow, but the weather impacts travel everywhere in the country. We waited for a flight in San Francisco an extra three hours because of delays in Detroit caused by snow a

12

couple of weeks back. Never assume smooth sailing for travel in the winter, and always give yourself enough time.

globaltravelerusa.com

FEBRUARY 2018

As one of the lucky ones who can say they experienced the Great Power Outage of 2017 at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta Airport, I had to write in. I was flying Delta ATL–LGA to visit a friend, and I was in Terminal S when the power went out. It was chaos. No one knew where to go or what to do — no screens were operating, and you couldn’t get anywhere near airline or airport personnel. Everyone was pretty much getting news by word of mouth. When it became clear flights were not getting out, we were basically instructed to leave. Fortunately I didn’t check luggage as so many did, and I was traveling for pleasure, not business, so I was able to head back to my car and eventually get home to reschedule. Traffic was comical — it was a mass exodus. It’s unbelievable something like this could happen at the country’s busiest airport. I was able to reschedule my flight at no additional cost, aside from the inconvenience, so I think Delta handled it well, but I’m sure others weren’t as lucky and may wait months for a voucher or account credit. At the very least, I got a good story out of the situation!

ANDREW BARNES, via email

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from our GT Tested Reader Survey awards party in Beverly Hills to hiking in Portland, Ore.

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American Airlines Launches Service to Iceland With airlines like WOW air and Icelandair dominating the skies between North America and Iceland, it seems inconceivable for another airline to enter the route race. But beginning this June, American Airlines will offer service to the North Atlantic island nation, driving further competition among the airlines already in place.

Starting June 7, daily nonstop service will be available between American’s hub at

Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport and Reykjavík’s Keflavík International Airport.

These seasonal flights will last until Oct. 27, at which point travelers seeking to fly from Dallas to Iceland can reserve a seat on one of the other two aforementioned airlines that recently began to fly the same route. If Texans were previously concerned about having to connect in another city to finally take that trip to Iceland, this summer they will have not one but three options. aa.com

EXTRA AIRLINE FEES COLLECTED IN 2017

PHOTOS: © UNDREY | DREAMSTIME, HAKINMHAN | DREAMSTIME

The year 2017 saw the early stages of airlines enacting add-on fees for services previously packaged into flight fares. But with increased competition from budget airlines both at home and abroad, the big names had to cut some inclusions in order to keep prices low.

As travelers’ perks continue to decrease or be eliminated altogether, some passengers are willing to pay to get them back. According to IdeaWorks Company, the estimated total of extra passenger fees collected by airlines in 2017 may reach $57 billion.

Two of the big three airlines — Delta Air Lines and American Airlines — noted approximately 50 percent of their travelers are more likely to pay the extra price for the bells and whistles than to grin and bear it in the increasingly basic Basic Economy.

Such fee-carrying services can include seat selection, in-flight entertainment, checked bag fees and even carry-on bag fees.

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Facebook, Airbus Collaborate on WiFi

If a collaboration between Facebook and Airbus comes to fruition, there may finally be a solution to the spotty WiFi connection often found at 30,000 feet. Through technology known as high altitude platform station systems, internet connectivity will be possible through solar-powered, drone-like devices floating throughout the air space.

Facebook introduced a precursory program in early 2017 called Aquila which, through drones, would extend internet connectivity to remote areas around the world. Airbus’ functional assistance comes into play as it begins to conceptualize single-pilot and pilotless planes. These flying internet hotspots could roam through the atmosphere for multiple months at a time before running out of power.

Not only would this invention provide passengers with quality internet connections throughout their flights, but also it would assist planes with satellite communications with other planes and air traffic control towers.

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news

United’s New Domestic Routes

Madrid-Barajas International Airport opened its recently renovated Velázquez Premium Lounge, brought to passengers by Iberia Airlines.

Located in T4, the 24-hour lounge welcomes travelers into its space of almost 27,000 square feet, nearly 25 percent larger than its original size. Now 500 guests can enjoy the space that offers free WiFi; USB charging stations; both hot and cold buffet lines;

New Renaissance Hotel in Dubai

a traditional sit-down restaurant; multiple coffee and tea bars; and a “vinothècque,” where wine lovers can take their pick from 22 Spanish wines: 13 red varieties, eight whites and one rosé.

When not indulging in food and wine, lounge guests can relax in cozy leather armchairs or freshen up in one of six shower cabins. Travelers with children can visit the kids’ zone with video games and children’s programming played on TVs. iberia.com

Last fall, Renaissance Hotels opened the doors to one of its newest properties: the Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai. Situated in the up-andcoming district of Business Bay, the location is prime for business travelers passing through or attending meetings in the United Arab Emirates.

The sky-scraping hotel features 233 guestrooms plus 65 suites with floor-to-ceiling windows that look over the water. The modern décor comprising black and gold accents welcomes guests into a haven of Middle Eastern luxury.

The hotel features four on-site restaurants catering to exquisite international taste. At Bhar (Arabic for “spice”), diners can explore local flavors through a casual sit-down meal or grab a coffee at the adjacent coffee shop, Grounded. Travel west (in the same hotel) to Rome by sampling Italian delights at BASTA!, or go even farther west to the farmland of Southern France with a chef’s table meal at Bleu Blanc. At Morimoto, celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto dishes out modern Japanese favorites with Western influences. renaissance-hotels.marriott.com

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united.com

Alaska Airlines Cuts Cuba Service

In the wake of the current administration’s rollback of previously released travel restrictions involving Americans’ ability to travel to Cuba, some airlines decided to suspend their services to the Caribbean island nation. Alaska Airlines is among the airlines ceasing flights to Cuba, making its final voyage last month.

The airline noted the re-imposed travel restrictions would result in decreased demand, and thus Alaska joined other airlines — such as Spirit, Silver and Frontier — in completely removing any service between the United States and Havana. alaskaair.com

PHOTOS: © IBERIA; RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL, DUBAI; © MEINZAHN | DREAMSTIME

Iberia Premium Lounge Reopens in Madrid

As the time for spring vacations nears, United Airlines launches a bevy of new flight routes to cater to travelers’ desires to escape somewhere warm and sunny (or simply more scenic) come springtime.

Beginning in April, United will fly from Chicago O’Hare International Airport to El Paso, Texas (ELP); Fresno, Calif. (FAT); and Wilmington, N.C. (ILM). Other debuting routes include Denver (DEN) to Jacksonville, Fla. (JAX); Los Angeles (LAX) to Redmond, Ore. (RDM); Medford, Ore. (MFR); Kalispell, Mont. (FCA); and Missoula, Mont. (MSO); Newark (EWR) to Elmira Airport, Ontario; and WashingtonDulles to Wilmington, N.C.

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Earn 100,000 Points with American Express

LEVEL Increases International Service

The newest airline to join the ranks of European budget airlines is LEVEL, a subsidiary of IAG, which also owns British Airways and Aer Lingus. Since June, LEVEL has offered incredibly discounted fares from Barcelona (BCN) to cities like Los Angeles (LAX), Oakland (OAK), Buenos Aires (EZE) and Punta Cana (PUJ). As the New Year began, the airline announced plans to double its services between Europe and North America.

Beginning March 28, LEVEL will debut a new route from Barcelona to Boston (BOS), and by July LEVEL will offer flights from Paris’ Orly Airport to Montréal (YUL), Newark (EWR), Martinique (FDF) and Guadeloupe (PTP).

Fares will start as low as $148 for a one-way flight. flylevel.com

PHOTOS: © LEVEL, © AMERICAN EXPRESS

Airlines Introduce Fare Payment Plans

With rapidly changing airfares and schedules, airlines work to make the payment process more flexible for hopeful travelers by offering incremental payment plans for flights.

Etihad Airways is one of the first airlines to introduce such a plan. On etihad.com, travelers can select Pay by Installment and then choose one of 17 banks to pay the fare in the next three to 60 months. Travel-

ers must have a credit card with one of the participating banks to qualify.

Although this option is only available in Egypt, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, domestic airlines like JetBlue and Southwest teamed with UpLift to offer this opportunity in the United States. The programs would require a down payment plus a monthly interest charge which, with UpLift, would be approximately 12 percent. uplift.com

Credit card users who sign up for the Platinum Card from American Express can earn 100,000 Membership Rewards points once they spend $5,000 in the first three months.

Card members can also receive up to $200 for Uber rides each year and a $200 airline fee credit to use for travelrelated expenses like baggage fees and access to airport lounges under the Global Lounge Collection.

When booking flights, members also will be eligible for five times the membership rewards points when booking with airlines or with American Express Travel, and five times the points on hotels reserved through amextravel.com. americanexpress.com

Marriott, SPG Rewards Program Changes

This year Marriott Rewards and Starwood Preferred Guest members will see slight changes in how they earn and redeem points. In an effort to match Marriott’s membership structure, SPG members who have lifetime membership status can now enjoy points that have no expiration date. They also can earn points by renting vehicles through Hertz.

Previously, Marriott members were able to roll over excess nights earned from one year to another, but in 2018 members will not be able to roll these nights over into 2019. Extra earned nights will expire at the end of the year.

By signing up with Hertz’s rewards program, Platinum members of both programs can receive mid-tier 5-star status with Hertz’s Gold Plus Rewards, while Platinum Premier members with ambassador service will be eligible for Hertz’s Gold Plus President’s Circle. marriott.com starwoodhotels.com

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LEOPOLIS HOTEL Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ You cannot beat the location of Leopolis Hotel, right in the center of Lviv’s historic area and just a few minutes’ walk from many of the city’s best sights, including Market Place, Opera Theatre and Vernissage.

Guest Quarters: My two-night visit was jam-packed, which didn’t afford me the luxury of spending much time in my guestroom. If I’d had more time to enjoy the accommodations, I know they would have proven comfortable.

A king-sized bed flanked by nightstands sat opposite a desk, above which a TV was mounted. A small sitting area occupied the corner near the window. The décor, neutral colors and clean lines, offered a soothing palette and allowed for natural light to stream through the windows. A marble bathroom rounded out the offerings in the 290-square-foot room.

Other room features include plush bedding and linens, complimentary WiFi, window black-outs and a minibar.

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Services/Amenities: This boutique hotel packs a lot of punch with its amenities and services. Guests can spend an evening at the Cigar Lounge or enjoy fine dining at Leopolis Restaurant, off the lobby and boasting a menu of modern Ukrainian cuisine. I enjoyed the breakfast buffet in the restaurant one morning. Four tables on the Rooftop Terrace offer a beautiful view and an exclusive dining experience. Rounding out the culinary offerings are On Shevska, serving homemade pastries, coffee and business lunches; Summer Terrace, serving breakfast and cocktails when weather permits; the lobby bar, Hartwall Bar; the Library, where you can enjoy an evening cocktail by the fireplace or host a business meeting; and a cozy patio hideout. Room service is available 24/7.

The Spa is open daily 10 a.m.–9 p.m., and the modern gym also offers personal trainer services.

Three different conference spaces — Leopolis Hall, Karelia and Inkerman — can host events of all types up to around 250 people. The staff at Leopolis can also provide ancillary services including flowers, music and entertainment, menus and invitations and photographers.

◆ The luxury hotel’s boutique size — 72 guestrooms, including three suites and three Superb Executive suites — gives your stay an exclusive, private feel. ◆ The hotel offers first-class car, VIP minivan or bus transfers to and from the airport, a nice perk for business travelers.

LEOPOLIS HOTEL Teatralna St. 16 79008 Lviv, Ukraine tel 380 32 295 95 00 leopolishotel.com

PHOTOS: © OLENA SUVOROVA | DREAMSTIME, © LEOPOLIS HOTEL

Arrival/Check-In: The Leopolis Hotel, nestled in the heart of Lviv, Ukraine, is a 5-star boutique property perfect for business or leisure travelers. The lobby is on the smaller side, with a limited seating area, but the hotel itself felt spacious. I arrived with a group of four and, despite a one-person manned front desk and the multiple check-ins concurrently, it only took a few minutes to retrieve my room key and head up to my third-floor deluxe guestroom.

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KIMPTON EVERLY HOTEL Reviewed by Ashley Richards

PHOTOS: © EVERLY HOTEL

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at Kimpton Everly early in the evening. Believe it or not, my Uber was able to beat the well-known L.A. traffic, which worked out perfectly since it afforded me a couple of hours to burn before dinner plans.

After swiftly checking in, I made my way to Hollywood Boulevard (just around the corner) to see all the stars and enjoy the beautiful weather. Sunny and 80 degrees in the middle of December is not something this Philly girl is used to.

Guest Quarters: I stayed in room 1012, conveniently located near the elevator. As I entered, I was immediately drawn to my view — having the Hollywood Hills in my “backyard” offered quite the sight. Immediately to the right of the entryway was the bathroom with one sink on a blackishgray marble counter. A large shower offered dispensers of Atelier Bloem shampoo, conditioner and body wash, which smelled amazing.

Past the bathroom on the right was a table and a fully stocked minibar. Opposite that, I was happy to see a freshly made California king-sized bed with plush white pillows and a down comforter. On the way out of the room to the right, a decent-sized closet held the basics: hangers, iron, ironing board and full-sized mirror. One thing I will mention is the

extremely soft robe. I’m a bit of a robe snob, so I appreciate when a hotel provides a nice one. The room also featured a large, flat-screen TV, though I didn’t make much use of it.

Services/Amenities: As many of you may know, the Kimpton hosts a complimentary wine hour every day, a tradition started in 1981 by Bill Kimpton. As the founder, he wanted to offer a gathering place for guests to feel a sense of community and include it in the room rate. I found it a great way to relax and get a quick drink before dinner.

The front desk was available to help with whatever I needed. Even avid travelers sometimes forget the little things, which can make a big difference. Kimpton Everly has this covered. In my bathroom, I discovered a list of items available upon request such as a cellphone charger, lip balm, curling/ straightening irons, apparel tape, a make-up mirror, stainremoving wipes, TSA-approved liquid bags, razors, tweezers … you name it! It was nice to know I could get these without having to make a trip to a local store or pharmacy. Last, and especially not least, was the rooftop pool bar — a perfect place to take out your laptop, catch up on emails and enjoy the California sun.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ During the wine reception, your furry companions are allowed to join in the festivities. ◆ The property is located just a few blocks from Hollywood Boulevard, so you can conveniently see all the stars. ◆ The rooftop pool was a perfect place to relax and enjoy the L.A. view. Yoga mats are available in the room as well.

KIMPTON EVERLY HOTEL 1800 Argyle Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90028 tel 213 279 3532 everlyhotelhollywood.com

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WALDORF ASTORIA BEVERLY HILLS Reviewed by Richard T. Evans

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Guest Quarters: I had a Beverly Hills suite, which included a balcony overlooking Santa Monica Boulevard. The balcony held two chairs and a small coffee table.

I entered the suite into an entrance foyer that led to a hallway, one side of which included a more than spacious walk-in dressing room/closet with a dresser and built-in bench. Opposite the dressing room/closet was the bathroom, which included a large tub, two sinks, a separate shower and a water closet.

The bedroom itself featured a king-sized bed with two nightstands and a bench at the foot of the bed. The desk offered electric outlets at desktop level. The desk also held an iPad that controlled the lighting, AC/heat and the window blinds, as well as room service and more.

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There were two armchairs, one on either side of the desk, as well as an easy chair with an ottoman for when one feels a swoon coming on. And for when one feels peckish, a minibar and a coffeemaker offer sustenance. The toiletries are by Salvatore Ferragamo.

Services/Amenities: The hotel is on the corner of Wilshire and Santa Monica, so it is near the heart of Beverly Hills, especially convenient if Rodeo Drive is on your list of must-visit places while in L.A. The hotel restaurant is Jean-Georges, the only Jean Georges Vongerichten restaurant in California. I had breakfast here, and I have to say the breakfast menu is one of the best in my experience. The hotel features three cocktail lounges: one in the restaurant, one in the lobby and a spectacular one on the roof.

Since the roof is the 12th floor of the hotel, the rooftop bar offers great 360-degree views night and day. The fully equipped gym caters only to hotel guests, so there is no concern about it being crowded. The spa is La Prairie, a Swiss brand, and has six treatment rooms.

The pool is also on the roof and has cabanas for those seeking some shade. The property includes a business center, several meeting rooms and a ballroom.

◆ The staff is friendly and accommodating. All of them, from the doormen to the bellhops to the maids and the people at reception, make a point of saying hello whenever they see you. ◆ I hosted a lunch for four of my colleagues at the rooftop bar, and we were all pleased with what we had and impressed with the daytime views. It is definitely worth visiting at least once during your stay.

WALDORF ASTORIA BEVERLY HILLS 9850 Wilshire Blvd.

Beverly Hills, CA 90210 tel 310 860 6666 waldorfastoria3.hilton.com

PHOTOS: © WALDORF ASTORIA

Arrival/Check-in: I was in Beverly Hills to attend Global Traveler’s GT Tested Reader Survey awards gala cocktail reception at a nearby hotel. After an uneventful flight from the chilly East Coast, I arrived in Los Angeles to summer-like weather, which I appreciated. The doorman gave me a warm greeting and directed me to reception, where the friendly staff promptly checked me in and the concierge showed me to my room.

The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is a new hotel, opened in June 2017, so everything about it has a newly minted glow.

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JUMEIRAH AT ETIHAD TOWERS Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

PHOTOS: © JUMEIRAH AT ETIHAD TOWERS

Arrival/Check-In: After a day of meetings in Dubai, we drove to Abu Dhabi to complete our journey in the U.A.E. I’d stayed at the Jumeirah at Etihad Towers twice before, the first time during the first month it was open. I find the property friendly and constantly evolving to suit the tastes of its guests. When we arrived, my driver could not open the trunk to retrieve our luggage; we all tugged, to no avail. I chatted with the doorman, and we thought it might be the valet lock in the glove compartment. Eureka! This was the issue, and we were soon off and running. The doorman and I became fast friends, smiling at each other as I arrived and departed.

The lobby is grand, offering options for relaxing, including the Lobby Lounge and Lobby Bar. Check-in was swift, and the friendly team asked if I needed help or guidance, which I politely refused and retired to my room.

Guest Quarters: I was in room 4303, with sweeping views of the beach club below and the warm waters. A great deal of construction was still taking place below, with several peninsulas dotted with luxury homes.

A long entrance hallway included a built-in closet and a minibar, coffee station and safe for valuables. I noted a wooden box contained a powerful hair dryer — not that I planned to use it, but this is a key item with my team. To the left, a large bathroom decorated with lovely gray-veined marble contrasted with white marble offered all the required amenities, including Jumeirah-branded shampoos and conditioners. A large white soaking tub stood to the left, and a separate massive shower was at the back next to a door for the commode and bidet.

The bedroom was functional. A nicely appointed built-in desk sat to the right, where I immediately set up shop and conveniently hooked up all my electronics. Large floor-to-ceiling windows offered a spectacular view with a Modernist chaise in front along with a small table and chair for dining. A flat-screen TV hung on the wall at the far left; it could have been a little larger. An extremely comfortable kingsized bed offered luxurious sleeping with a finely made duvet. A turtle motif on the center of the duvet signified the property’s environmental awareness.

Services/Amenities: I cannot say enough about Ray’s Bar, boasting wonderful bartenders, and Ray’s Grill. The Grill chef offers prime cuts of beef from all over the world: Ireland, Italy, the United

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Don’t miss the super happy hour at Ray’s Bar. ◆ I loved the Irish beef at Ray’s Grill.

States, Australia and New Zealand. The team crafts a specially milled salt/spice at the table, and you can select from a variety of sauces.

I was particularly fond of the steak knife selection, all different sizes and handles. We enjoyed the meal with a tasty red wine, Carm, from Portugal’s Douro region. Every night the staff selects one table for a complimentary dinner. Out came the team chanting, “Cut the check” and offered me the bill to slice in half! We felt like we had new friends and, of course, left a generous tip.

We also tried Tori No Su, a Japanese restaurant across from the lobby on the ground floor. We had a lovely table and ordered some of the best sashimi, nori and rolls and again found a team that combined a great mind for service with a fantastic sense of humor. I recommend either restaurant as some of the best in Abu Dhabi. The property’s dining options also include Italian, Lebanese and the wonderful breakfast at Rosewater.

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◆ Location, location, location — across the street from the Emirates Palace where you can enjoy a 24K goldtopped cappuccino.

JUMEIRAH AT ETIHAD TOWERS Etihad Towers West Corniche Abu Dhabi United Arab Emirates tel 971 2 811 5555 jumeirah.com

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FOUR SEASONS HOTEL TORONTO Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

Guest Quarters: My superior room was generously sized, with a king-sized bed and plush bedding, a spacious granite bathroom and ample space to work. The room opened into a small vestibule, with the bathroom straight ahead. The bathroom boasted a large rainfall shower, but with a curtain rather than a door; a standalone tub; and quite a bit of counter space. I appreciated the many towels.

Across from the bathroom were closets, and then the hallway opened into the bedroom. To the right

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was the long dresser/credenza which also housed the minibar and espresso machine, above which was mounted the 55-inch Ultra HD Smart TV. A desk faced the windows, but I preferred to work in the armchair and put my feet up. Outlets were easily accessible. The comfortable bed — I sank into it that night and slept well — was flanked by two nightstands.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Services/Amenities: Café Boulud, helmed by Chef Daniel Boulud, serves cuisine inspired by the chef ’s family meals in Lyon, France, and is open for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. I enjoyed breakfast there, and you can tell it is a place where businesspeople congregate for morning meetings. The breakfast potatoes were especially tasty. D|Bar, located below Café Boulud, serves a casual dining menu alongside cocktails, beer and an extensive wine list.

I really did have every intention of visiting the eighth-floor fitness facility, open 24 hours a day with room-key access and featuring free weights and cardio equipment, but alas, I never made it there. The Spa at Four Seasons Toronto is temporarily relocated as the space refreshes its guest areas and pool but should reopen March 2018. Massages, facials, body scrubs and more are available.

◆ Located in Yorkville, the hotel is convenient to some of Toronto’s best shopping and dining. While my visit was too short and busy to explore, I noted the hotel’s easy accessibility as I arrived and departed.

◆ I arrived a bit after lunchtime and ordered room service — a Caesar salad and chicken noodle soup. When it arrived, I thought, “This is the most beautifully presented hotel room service I’ve ever seen.”

◆ I am always excited to see a rainfall showerhead in hotels; however, I was disappointed the shower in my guestroom soaked the bathroom floor.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL TORONTO 60 Yorkville Ave. Toronto, ON M4W 0A4 Canada tel 416 964 0411 fourseasons.com

PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS HOTEL TORONTO, © KIMBERLY KROL

Arrival/Check-In: After a morning flight from Philadelphia, I arrived in Toronto and was quickly on my way to Four Seasons Hotel Toronto. My latemorning arrival coincided with the last bits of rush hour traffic as well as some construction, so I arrived at the property a bit after lunchtime. Luckily, check-in was easy, conducted by an especially warm and friendly front desk attendant. And happily, despite being several hours in advance of the normal check-in time, my room was ready. I had to pause a moment upon arrival and on my way to my room to take in the beautiful holiday decorations on display.

one on one

TREY URBAHN Chief Strategy Officer, TAP Air Portugal

PHOTO: © CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK

rier for the new Airbus A300-900neo, taking delivery of 19 by the end of 2019. These aircraft, featuring breakthrough airspace cabin interiors, will provide new market growth. TAP will also introduce the highly efficient Airbus A321neo LR, featuring fully lie-flat businessclass seats in addition to premium-economy and economy seating. These aircraft will allow TAP to open new, thinner markets too small for the 300-seat A330neo, including the Eastern United States and northeast Brazil. The 53 new Airbus A330s, A320s and A321neos on order will simultaneously improve the efficiency of our fleet and improve our product.

Name: Trey Urbahn Title: Chief strategy officer Company, city: TAP Air Portugal; Lisbon, Portugal Number of employees: Approximately 7,800 airline employees, with another 4,000-plus at ground handling, maintenance and regional subsidiaries Recent project: Transforming TAP from a stodgy, state-owned airline to a private, innovative, profitable airline capable of competing globally First job: I rotated stock on supermarket shelves for a pet food company in college.

Little-known fact about you: I commute weekly from my home in Connecticut to Lisbon.

Before that, I did the same to São Paulo. In the past 12 years, I’ve flown more than 5 million miles and spent more than 1,000 nights commuting to and from work.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Airlines fly with a lot of unused capacity in wide-body airplanes. Some, like TAP, use a container with stairway access to provide a crew rest facility with up to seven bunks. Similar concepts will develop for passenger use.

Best career advice you’ve received: Airlines are a passion; do it because you love the business. If you want to get rich, work on Wall Street.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? The airline business is about serving people or serving someone who does. Take care of your employees and they will take care of your customers, who ultimately provide for your bottom line.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Traveling to the island of Fernando do Noronha off the coast of Brazil, a spectacular, undeveloped island with the best beaches in the world.

One travel tip you cannot live without: I always bring my own pillow, noise-cancelling headphones and an iPad with movies, or an ebook.

Best advice for business travelers: Fly to Europe via Lisbon on TAP. Our business-class and economy-plus fares are consistently lower, and you can stop over in one of the great undiscovered cities for free.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can travelers expect from TAP Air Portugal in 2018?

In 2017 TAP installed state-ofthe-art lie-flat seats in seven of its newer Airbus A330-200s. In 2018 we will be the launch car-

Tell our readers about the stopover program, which recently expanded from three to five nights. The program is a remarkable success, with more than 80,000 travelers from the Americas experiencing a stopover in the last few years. As TAP flies to more than 65 destinations throughout Europe and Africa, this is a great way to have travelers consider our global network and offer a heck of a deal, as Americans clamor to see Lisbon, Porto and the rest of the country. Travelers can spend up to five nights in Lisbon or Porto with no additional airfare, and there are also hotel discounts (or a free night for those booked in business class), free wine with meals at participating restaurants, shopping discounts at a major department store and great experiences such as walking tours or complimentary museum entry.

What can premium travelers expect from their TAP Air Portugal experience? By 2020 all our long-haul aircraft will be brand-new or recently reconfigured, providing a consistent product across the fleet. We’ve recruited six Michelin-starred Portuguese chefs to bring their individual touches to our food in business and economy, and we’re introducing new Portuguese wines to our award-winning onboard selection. Our premium travelers can expect the “new TAP” with a renewed commitment to deliver a superb flying experience.

We will continue to be the price leader for customers flying between the United States and Europe.

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one on one

SLIM ZAIANE General Manager, Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates Dubai

Best career advice you’ve received: You must have big dreams to achieve great things; high expectations are key; aim toward the future and start with a clear goal.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Have passion and pass this passion on to your team.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Whenever I travel, I collect regional artists’ works. I curate a collection of modern art from all the countries I have visited. It is a great tool to remember all the great moments from many years.

Name: Slim Zaiane Title: General manager Company, city: Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates Dubai; Dubai, U.A.E. Number of employees: 400 Recent project: Our $100 million property renovation, with the full refurbishment of the Aspen Chalets, took close to four years to complete.

First job: Food and beverage management trainee in Geneva at what was then the Hilton, now a Kempinski Little-known fact about you: I am British; I was born in Tunisia and studied in Switzerland and the U.K. I speak fluent French, English,

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Arabic and Italian. I am married with two daughters. I love to run 10k at the end of a hectic day and tend to complete 100k in running per month.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? The Kempinski is a leader in the luxury hospitality market, and currently we focus on innovation to exceed the expectations of millennials, either as a workforce or as present and future guests. The millennial generation is the largest age group to emerge since the baby boom generation, and as this group

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One travel tip you cannot live without: Learn something new from every trip. Try the local cuisine and understand the basics of the culture.

Best advice for business travelers: Be mindful that it is easy to get trapped in unhealthy habits when traveling.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from a stay at Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates Dubai? The property is a luxury lifestyle destination at the heart of Dubai. Our guests come not only for the luxury and personalized service but also for the wide range of activities at our doorstep.

They can explore the best Dubai

has to offer and then retire to their suite for privacy, space and relaxation. Guests choosing our Aspen Chalets also benefit from 24-hour private butler service.

Whether guests are traveling on business or with a large family, our stellar staff anticipates their needs.

Tell our readers about your Aspen Chalets. The Aspen Chalets are unique in Dubai and the region. No other hotel has rooms overlooking the legendary Ski Dubai at Mall of the Emirates. The view is absolutely second-to-none, while the décor instantly transports guests to a luxury ski lodge in Aspen.

What are the dining options at the hotel? Each of our restaurants offers a unique dining experience. The flagship restaurant, Olea, presents authentic Levantine cuisine, known in Arabic as the Bilad ash-Sham or Land of the North. This is the traditional cuisine of Jordan, Lebanon, Palestine, Syria, southern Turkey and Cyprus. Authentic Spanish eatery Salero Tapas & Bodega offers creative and authentic tapas as well as a wide selection of paellas and fresh seafood specialties.

Aspen by Kempinski celebrates the European tradition of a grand café in the heart of the city. We also have two bars: Noir, offering artisan cocktails, and our poolside bar Mosaic Chill.

PHOTO: © KEMPINSKI HOTEL MALL OF THE EMIRATES DUBAI

grows significantly as a proportion of the workforce over the next 20 years, employers will need to make major adjustments in their engagement models.

technology

GET SMART Ramp up the action with next-generation products.

BY JACK GUY

CYCLIQ CONNECTED EDITION BIKE LIGHTS With cycling ever more popular among commuters and recreational riders, technology develops to keep riders safe.

Bike lights are a must for anyone riding in the dark, and the Cycliq Fly12 and Fly6 Connected Edition lights come with some impressive extra features. Both the front-facing Fly12 and the rear-facing Fly6 are fitted with integrated cameras that record footage constantly, allowing you to record evidence in case of a collision.

Fly6 CE, $179; Fly12 CE, $279. cycliq.com

PHOTOS: © CYCLIQ, © BENQ, © VAVA, © VIVE

BENQ HT2550 As 4K technology becomes more common in televisions, projector manufacturers work to bring the technology to their products. Highly regarded home cinema brand BenQ announced the 4Kand HDR-ready HT2550 projector for release in early 2018, at a far more affordable price than the competition. If you’ve got the wall space, treat yourself to a 4K projector for the ultimate home cinema experience. $2,100 (to be confirmed). benq.us

VAVA DASH CAM If you spend a lot of time on the road, a dash cam is a great idea for security. The VAVA records in full HD and supports iOS and Android smartphones, too, as well as providing a live video feed and GPS tracking. It also features a remote picture button so you can take a snap without compromising your safety.

Whether you want to record the most beautiful drives on your road trips or collect evidence in the case of an accident, the VAVA is a great dash cam for the purpose. $149.99. vava.com

HTC VIVE FOCUS The new virtual reality headset from HTC is a stand-alone model that displays images without being connected to a computer or smartphone. It’s even more realistic than existing headsets and looks set to be the first VR headset to support six degrees of movement rather than four. Other companies are working on next-generation VR headsets, but HTC just might beat them to the punch with the Vive Focus.

Price TBD. vive.com

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Dignified Dwellings

The Peninsula Beverly Hills introduces new guestrooms, suites and villas.

TO WELCOME 2018, The Peninsula Beverly Hills unveiled a complete update of all 195 guestrooms, suites and garden villas. The fresh look and feel preserves the iconic property’s signature French country style while introducing a contemporary twist.

Inspired by the work and style of the hotel’s original designer, Beverly Hills-based firm Forchielli Glynn, LLC created a renovation program reflecting the hotel’s commitment to offering the best in services and amenities with state-of-the-art technologies set alongside comfortable, stylish aesthetics.

“We continually update and evolve our product to ensure that we are offering our guests experiences of the finest quality,” said Offer Nissenbaum, Managing Director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills. “But we also wanted to stay true to the DNA of the hotel and preserved the design

elements that have become so beloved over the past 26 years.”

Built in a classic Renaissance style, The Peninsula Beverly Hills was designed to resemble a gracious private residence. From personalized pillowcases and the tranquil Roof Garden and Spa to the comforts of The Living Room, complete with fireplaces and the uplifting sounds of the hotel’s resident pianist, guests feel right at home during their stay.

Among the finest in the industry, accommodations at The Peninsula Beverly Hills embody laidback sophistication, reflective of the hotel’s quintessential Southern California charm. Each guestroom is equipped with custom-made furnishings, chic marble bathrooms, ergonomic work areas and electronic room controls.

“The Peninsula Beverly Hills always welcomes me warmly and treats me like family throughout my stay. This warmth extends to the new

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suites at The Peninsula, which are tastefully decorated but also very comfortable. I always enjoy the spacious desk as I work for extended periods in the suite, and I find I can truly make myself at home while enjoying the comforts and style The Peninsula offers,” said Francis Gallagher, Publisher and CEO, Global Traveler.

Deluxe rooms have seen a striking transformation and now feature soft French blue walls reminiscent of California’s bright blue skies. Light fills the room through the property’s signature Juliet balconies that open up onto palm tree-lined streets. Luscious floral-patterned canopies, made with textiles

by French fabric house Manuel Canovas, frame plush beds set atop vibrant royal blue gingham bed skirts. Other rooms feature a soft peach scheme with classic Brunschwig & Fils tree-of-life pattern fabric and pale Champagne walls, contrasted with coral accents.

Light and airy stand-alone villa suites, set amid the hotel’s lush tropical gardens, boast hardwood floors and spacious balconies. A golden glow warms the new rooms, redesigned with soft yellow tones that complement each room’s flickering fireplace. The bed’s French-inspired canopy interweaves beautiful white magnolias with playful pineapples — the international symbol of hospitality.

Newly transformed, The Peninsula Suite whisks guests

away with Asian textiles, eye-catching objets d’art like Chinese blue-and-white porcelain, hand-knotted Savonnerie rugs and hand-painted Chinoiserie-style murals, while The California Suite captures the best of the hotel’s hometown with eclectic art, plush furnishings, gilded chandeliers, rose accents and understated floral prints. Each of the five updated Signature

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Color Suites continue to boast a distinctive character with unique color palettes, fireplaces, book collections and artwork for a homey atmosphere.

The Peninsula Beverly Hills offers the perfect luxurious oasis, set in one of the most prestigious areas of Los Angeles, in the heart of Beverly Hills. Located at the intersection of Wilshire and South Santa Monica Boulevards, the hotel is within easy walking distance of the financial and shopping areas of Century City and Beverly Hills, including the famous

Rodeo Drive, and is less than an hour from Los Angeles International Airport, Santa Monica and Malibu beaches, hiking trails and distinguished cultural institutions like The Getty Center, The Broad and the Wallis Annenberg Center for Performing Arts. A knowledgeable hotel concierge is always available for personalized recommendations, reservations and other services to help you experience all the city has to offer.

Live the L.A. dream without even leaving the hotel with The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ specially curated experiences, including the Hollywood-Style Photo Shoot, complete with a professional Hollywood stylist, bespoke jewelry and a session with award-winning photographer Ryan Forbes. Or perhaps you’d like to experience what it’s like to be a world-class pianist: Antonio Castillo de la Gala offers a private 90-minute lesson, followed by lunch at The Belvedere.

For kids, Executive Pastry Chef Stephanie Boswell helms a class teaching the basics of baking; and NYC-based Red Carpet Kids gives young guests a World Premiere Experience, including a live-action movie filming and a walk down the famous red carpet.

Unique to The Peninsula Beverly Hills, the Peninsula Time check-in and check-out service allows guests to arrive and depart at their leisure, 24 hours a day, based on availability.

The award-winning Belvedere restaurant, the only AAA Five Diamond-rated restaurant in Los Angeles for 24 consecutive years, offers an innovative seafood-centric Mediterranean menu showcasing world-class cuisine in a warm and inviting environment. The restaurant’s outdoor terrace space is a destination in itself, offering al fresco dining under the glittering Beverly Hills evening sky. The Living Room serves the legendary Peninsula Afternoon Tea, and daily, casual dining is

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available at The Roof Garden, an oasis offering beautiful views and food made with ingredients from the hotel’s own rooftop garden.

Adjacent to the tranquil Roof Garden, the award-winning Peninsula Spa offers a full array of health and fitness facilities, from tailor-made facials and custom massages to stress-reducing body treatments and a eucalyptus steam room. The Fitness Center offers the latest in high-tech exercise equipment including machines by HOIST, personal training services and one-on-one sessions in yoga and Pilates.

Also on the rooftop, surrounded by panoramic views of the Los Angeles and Century City skyline, is the hotel’s 60-foot lap pool and Jacuzzi, bordered by 12 private cabanas, where guests can lay back and relax with a signature cocktail or light fare from the Naturally Peninsula menu.

Those visiting The Peninsula Beverly Hills for work have access to 3,398 square feet of versatile meeting and event

space, providing flexibility for every type of meeting and celebration. The grand Verandah Room offers a gorgeous setting for indoor-outdoor parties for up to 300, complete with a large foyer, grand piano and a peaceful terrace. The rooftop venue offers a laidback atmosphere and picturesque views, and the stately boardroom is the perfect setting for meetings, conferences and small exhibitions. Events at The Peninsula Beverly Hills always impress, with not only memorable venues but unparalleled service.

The only AAA Five Diamond and Forbes Five Star-rated property in Southern California every year since opening in 1991, The Peninsula Beverly Hills was also named the Best Hotel in the United States for the seventh consecutive year in Global Traveler’s 2017 GT Tested Reader Survey awards. The award is a testament to the hotel’s exceptional attention to detail, unparalleled amenities and premier service.

wine & spirits

HEART’S DESIRE

OF ALL THE MAJOR PRODUCERS in France’s Champagne region, only a few are family-owned. One of the few is Maison & Domaines Henriot, founded in 1808 and today, seven generations later, still making outstanding Champagne. As a privately owned Champagne house, Henriot chooses to keep its production low, to just over 1 million bottles a year, while most larger houses in the region turn out many millions annually.

Being privately owned also allows it to emphasize its own distinct style, one aspect of which is to stress the purest expression of Chardonnay. And many of the Chardonnay grapes that become Henriot Champagne come from top-rated Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. As Laurent Fresnet, Henriot’s cellar master, says, “What makes our Champagne special is that its grapes are sourced from beautiful terroirs. And thanks to our independent status as a family-owned house, I can dedicate the time and care it requires to craft … the unique style of our Champagnes.”

In Henriot’s Brut Rosé ($70) in which Fresnet uses 35 percent reserve wine, he looks for freshness and fruitiness.

And indeed, it is fresh and fruity as well as bright and balanced. A pretty pink shade, it offers a mouth-filling sensation and a medium-long aftertaste.

Brut Souverain ($45), composed of 50 percent Chardonnay, 45 percent Pinot Noir and the rest Meunier, is pale yellow, quite dry, with a sturdy body and a fresh, lively aroma.

Made of 100 percent Chardonnay and presenting an explosion of delicate bubbles, Blanc de Blancs ($60) is a clean, ripe, floral wine with a delicious finish.

The creamy, rich, Brut Millésime 2006 ($62.50) combines equal parts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Cuve 38 ($599) is a special wine with only 1,000 bottles produced each year, all in magnums and made only of Chardonnay from Côte des Blanc Grand Cru vineyards.

Beginning in 1990, the finest part of each Chardonnay harvest has been kept in a solera system. In the current bottling, the oldest part of the blend is from 1990, the youngest from 2008. Cuve 38 is truly spectacular.

In short, every one of Henriot’s Champagnes lives up to the house’s 210-year-old reputation.

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alk p ch e e ion sd reg r it e o f n pag own of ham Kn res C c e a h l, t 00 soi 5,0 7 sts boa s. ard y e vin

PHOTOS: © CHAMPAGNE HENRIOT

Celebrate your love with the perfect Valentine: Henriot Champagne. BY EUNICE FRIED

from vineyard to bottle at our

URBAN WINERY state-of-the-art concert facility restaurant + wine bar private event space WINE CLUB Wines delivered to your home or office twice a year

CUSTOM WINE PROGRAM Make your very own barrel (252 bottles) and/or your own labels

INDULGE YOUR SENSES LOCATIONS IN

NYC | CHICAGO | NASHVILLE | ATLANTA BOSTON | WASHINGTON DC (coming soon) contact sales@citywinery.com | citywinery.com

HANDS-ON BLENDING We’ll guide you and your guests/team through a wineblending session

TAP WINE Large and unique selection only available at City Winery

wealth

FAMILY WEALTH TRANSITION Transferring assets from one generation to the next can be a smooth process with proper planning.

Imagine you ask a travel agent and a travel guide to plan the perfect vacation for you. They set out creating your ideal trip; however, they never actually communicate the plans to you.

Without proper communication of the who, what, where, when and why, how will the trip be successfully executed? The same goes for successful communication of an estate plan and the wishes of the person in control of the estate.

The following checklist provides a starting point for assessing if your family is prepared. Careful preparation, communication and clear goals will significantly enhance the success of your family wealth transition.

PREPAREDNESS CHECKLIST

◆ Our family has an estate plan in place and we created the necessary legal documents to carry out the plan. ◆ Our estate planning documents are periodically reviewed and are up-to-date.

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◆ We communicated our estate plan to our family, to the designated beneficiaries and to the parties responsible for carrying out the wishes of our plan. ◆ Our family understands the basic goals we aim to accomplish with our financial and estate plans. ◆ Our family continues to have ongoing communications about topics of importance to the family (financial plans, estate plans, family history, family values).

If you checked off all six items on the checklist, most likely your estate plan is in place and you have a high probability of a successful transition to the next generation. Congratulations!

However, any unchecked items provide a starting point for improving your plan.

With proper planning, transferring wealth from one generation to the next can be a smooth process. The basic documents that should be in place before anything else are the will and trust documents. However, contrary to what many believe, it does not end here. Open communication, including periodic family meetings, keeping everything up to date and all parties understanding their roles and responsibilities are the keys to success and, frankly, can make or break an estate plan.

PHOTO: © AMMENTORP | DREAMSTIME

HOLLYWOOD MOVIES USUALLY PORTRAY the reading of the will as a family gathering around in suspense, anxiety and agony. You’ve seen it in films or in commercials on television.

Lucky family members win the prize inheritance and are in celebration, while others are left out of the will, completely forgotten and with nothing. This scene of the estate plan details being revealed after death can create some potential problems, and in an ideal world should never happen.

For most people, an estate plan includes items such as a basic will, a trust, durable power of attorney documents and medical or health care directives. These documents are packaged together for the client, including instructions for designating property correctly and best practices for safekeeping of the documents.

Ideally, both client and advisor are happy; the client knows his or her advisor understands the client’s needs and the advisor knows the client now has the appropriate documents in place.

Ideally.

However, successful wealth transfers must answer these questions: How do we communicate the strategy to those responsible for carrying out the wishes of the client?

How do we prepare those beneficiaries and responsible individuals for implementing the plan?

When is the appropriate time to communicate this strategy to the beneficiaries?

◆ Our financial plan has been completed and is up-todate.

Discover your financial freedom Helping our clients define and achieve their individual financial goals

Financial Planning Investment Management Tax Planning Tax Preparation Estate Planning

Comprehensive Wealth Management Solutions Fee-Only | Independent | Registered Investment Advisor Offices in: San Diego, CA • Irvine, CA • Prague, CZ • Middle East

www.rfadvisors.com

tours

BEHIND THE AMPERSAND Discover the signature style of Abercrombie & Kent. BY KRISTY ALPERT CREDITED WITH REDEFINING THE SAFARI experience and famous for pushing the envelope on bespoke travel, legendary luxury tour company Abercrombie & Kent has a long-standing tradition of blazing its own trails.

Although A&K was officially born in 1962, the true inception of this illustrious operator began decades earlier when its cofounders, Valerie and Col. John Kent, embarked upon an unforgettable safari in Zambia — unforgettable because on that safari the couple gave birth to their son, A&K cofounder Geoffrey Kent.

Kent grew up on the family’s farm in Kenya, where he later became the first person to journey between Kenya and Cape Town on a motorbike.

Kent obviously shared his parents’ pioneering sense of adventure, and after a short career with the British Army, he teamed up with his mom and dad to launch a safari camp that would give guests an experience like no other.

Equipped with one Land Rover, a sterling silver ice bucket that belonged to Kent’s mother and a made-up name (the “Abercrombie” portion of the name was strategically created to put the company at the front of the yellow page listings), the trio began offering guided safaris around their beloved home in Africa. Kent took over the company in 1967, when his parents retired, and began developing what would become the new standard of luxury travel by creating A&K’s signature travel style.

It was Kent who first repositioned African safaris to a “hunt with a camera, not with a gun” experience, and it was he who first introduced refrigeration to mobiletented safaris, making it possible to enjoy a chilled martini during a sundowner or a freshly chilled towel to refresh guests after a long day on a game drive.

The company now operates 52 full-time offices around the world with experiences that include luxury safaris in Botswana, high-end cruises to Antarctica and, its brand-new offering, Private Jet Journeys that offer the ultimate luxury travel experience.

The A&K difference is embedded in the philosophy that travelers should be able to discover the world in a uniquely authentic and stylish manner. Journeys with A&K are notoriously and delightfully old school, where travelers receive mailed packages leading up to the journey with printed details and materials to help make the journey more comfortable. Once on the road, guests

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TRAILBLAZER:

(Left to right) Geoffrey Kent circa 1977 with his Land Rover, and more recently in Mongolia; and the newly refurbished Sanctuary Chief's Camp in Botswana ​PHOTOS: © ABERCROMBIE & KENT

are accompanied by local experts who carry an intimate knowledge of the destination and are able to offer thoughtful insights on local customs and cultural mores.

A&K’s holistic approach to the travel experience allows for authentic encounters to occur naturally while giving guests a comfortable environment in which they can relax in some of the world’s most exotic locations, from air-conditioned camps in the Okavango Delta to freshly brewed cappuccinos on board the expedition ships to Antarctica.

ished furb amp e r ntly ief’s C rece The uary Ch ansive p d ct San es an ex extende r n u ed t a t a a ; e k d f p ec ge d m; and u with loun o d o e r p ip ng dini oms equ itioning o d r n o d c e b sso i, air al espre F i W on pers and . s e n i mach

GET SOCIAL Make Global Traveler your travel companion! Like our Facebook page; connect with us on LinkedIn; and follow us on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest for travel updates, deals and more. Share your updates with us by using #globility. If you haven't checked them out lately, here's a sampling of what you may have missed:

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PHOTOS: © CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK, © MARTIN MOLCAN | DREAMSTIME, © SKYTEAM, © MIKE CLEGG | DREAMSTIME, © PATTY VANIKIOTIS, © OLEKSANDR MOLOTKOVYCH | DREAMSTIME, © SKYTEAM, © COURTESY OF CONRAD DUBLIN, © JAN HECHT

Like us on Facebook to stay updated and interact with fellow travelers.

The team at the 14th Annual GT Tested Reader Survey Awards at The Peninsula Beverly Hills!

Doha skyline in Qatar.

Our team joined 30-plus volunteers from @SKYTEAM’s U.S. Market Coordinating Committee at the @HabitatforHumanity of Greater Los Angeles holiday home-building event. What a great way to give back! t.co/O5zdRdxlyT

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Check out this blog from our 2017 GT Tested Awards party!

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Follow our Twitter account, @GTmag, for the latest #travelnews and #traveldeals.

SkyTeam introduces a new lounge.

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Click the link in our bio to head to the #EmeraldIsle for a #festive celebration. #globility

The 14th annual GT Tested Reader Survey Awards at the @ThePeninsulaBH was one for the books! Thanks to all who made the night so special, and congratulations to the winners! #globility

spas

HARMONY IN THE JUNGLE Relax in the natural sanctuary of Grand Velas Riviera Maya. BY TRACEY CULLEN

TAKE THE PLUNGE: Spa Pool with relaxing waterfalls and massaging jets PHOTO: © GRAND VELAS RIVIERA MAYA

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THE GRAND VELAS RIVIERA MAYA nestles in a mangrove jungle that spans most of the 206-acre property. On our way to the Ambassador Section, we rode past the Zen Grand Section with its family-friendly suites in the heart of the Yucatán jungle.

A mile down the road, we came upon the two beachfront sections: Grand Class Adults Only and the Ambassador Family Friendly.

From the moment I checked in, the friendly staff treated me like royalty, always greeting me by name and with a smile.

After settling into the suite and enjoying an afternoon at the beach and the pool, I savored an amazing wild mushroom lasagna scented with black truffles at Lucca, one of the resort’s eight restaurants. Throughout my stay, I enjoyed meals at several of the restaurants, including Frida, the fine Mexican restaurant celebrating Mexican painter Frida Kahlo; and Azul, the beachfront buffet that made me rethink my previously unflattering opinion of allinclusive buffets. The venue displayed the huge buffet selection like a work of art, and the food was always fresh and delicious.

On the morning of my spa appointment, I took the shuttle to the Zen Section for breakfast at Chaká. After enjoying French toast with tropical fruit salad, I took my waiter up on the offer of

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a mimosa to get in a relaxed mood for my spa treatment.

The expansive, 90,000-square-foot spa offers a calming sanctuary in harmony with the surrounding jungle. At times, as I walked through the spa, I forgot I was actually indoors and not outside in the jungle.

I arrived an hour before my scheduled facial for the spa’s signature Water Journey. This experience, a therapeutic hydrotherapy process, consisted of different water treatments at varied temperatures. My Water Journey began in a traditional woodlined sauna, where the spa butler offered me a chilled towel and cucumbers for my eyes and gave the option of staying from five to 10 minutes. After I enjoyed a toasty five-minute stay in the sauna followed by a relaxing rain shower, she led me to the Color Therapy Steam Room. The ceiling of the dark, steam-filled room was adorned with small, hue-changing LED lights reminiscent of a colorful starry night. I settled into a seat on the tiled bench that wrapped around the circular room and enjoyed the pore-opening, eucalyptus-scented steam.

I then headed to the Clay Room which, in contrast to the dark steam room, featured a large window offering a bright jungle

view. I received a small bowl filled with thick clay to apply to my face and body, which felt refreshingly cool.

Once the clay had time to work its magic, the spa butler came in to let me know it was time to use the handheld shower to wash off the clay, apply an aloe vera gel and proceed to the Ice Room.

I was a bit apprehensive about the Ice Room, but upon entering I was pleasantly surprised by how invigorating it felt. Tiny, sparkly blue tiles covered every surface of the room, conveying the feel of a frozen igloo. The room lived up to its name — it was freezing! With the help of an icy cold towel and a constant supply of ice flowing from an ice fountain, it definitely closed all my pores.

Next, the sensation shower offered a chance to warm up and wash off any remaining clay I missed with the handheld shower.

The spa butler then escorted me out into the magnificent pool area. She led me to the Sensory Pebble Walkway and instructed me to walk down the first path and back up the second path, and repeat twice. I gently walked through the warm, knee-deep water, enjoying the feel of the smooth pebbles on my feet. I happily got out and entered the second walkway, immediately realizing I did not listen closely to her explanation of this ritual.

The frigid water I plunged my feet into took my breath away. It was so icy cold my feet felt like they were being pricked by a hundred pins. Once I got over the shock of that unexpected temperature change, the sensation changed from pin pricks to a strangely delightful tingle. I repeated walking the path, although I admit I was hesitant to enter the cold path, and I walked a bit faster the second time around.

I quickly exited the cold path and entered the warm pool area where a series of focused massaging jets relax different areas of the body. A water bubble bed and hot and cold plunge pools finished the amazing water experience.

And that was just the beginning of my spa day! Next, I was off to enjoy a facial.

Virginia, my therapist, ushered me back upstairs to the treatment rooms, asking my scent preference and gently placing my feet into a basin of warm millet seeds. After brushing off the millet seeds and placing my feet in warm slippers, she asked if I wanted the curtains opened or closed. I opted to keep them open to enjoy the feeling of being in the jungle. She asked me to disrobe, get under the sheets and gently sound the small cymbals to let her know I was ready for my facial. As I disrobed in front of the jungle window, I felt a little exposed and decided to hurry under the covers. In the process, I accidentally picked up

the cymbals by the connecting string and loudly clanked them together. Fearing the door would open before I covered up, I leapt onto the table and quickly pulled the sheets up to my chin with my heart pounding. But my fear was unfounded; Virginia quietly rapped on the door to check on me and make sure I was ready for her to enter.

She proceeded with my Grand Reserve Facial, recommended for skin very dry, mature or damaged by the sun.

A combination of Esdor wine-therapy products provided an intense antioxidant effect, at the same time helping seal in the natural moisture of the skin and soften fine lines.

My skin felt softer than it has in years, and I left feeling totally relaxed and ready for another day enjoying all the Grand Velas Riviera Maya had to offer.

ROOM BY ROOM:

Treatment room (top), and the Ice Room (bottom) PHOTOS: Š GRAND VELAS RIVIERA MAYA

Grand Velas Riviera Maya Carretera Cancun Tulum Km. 62, Playa del Carmen, Municipio de Solidaridad, Riviera Maya, Quintana Roo C.P. 77710, Mexico tel 52 322 226 8689 rivieramaya.grandvelas.com

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golf

JOYRIDE Play serious golf with a touch of whimsy at Nemacolin Woodlands’ Shepherd’s Rock. BY DALE LEATHERMAN

BEWARE THE BUNKERS: Hole 4 green

PHOTO: © DONNELLE OXLEY​

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YOU CAN ALWAYS EXPECT the unexpected from golf architects Pete and Alice Dye and their boots-on-the-ground co-conspirator, Tim Liddy.

In that respect, the design team and Maggie Hardy Magerko, president, Nemacolin Woodlands Resort, are kindred spirits — and Magerko does not hesitate to finance her free-spirited imagination if it is for the good of the resort.

Knowing this, I eagerly awaited the opening of the second Dye course at the resort, a 2,000-acre luxury enclave in the Laurel Highlands of Pennsylvania. I was there in 1995 for the debut of the Dyedesigned 7,526-yard Mystic Rock, a stunning layout routed through boulder-strewn terrain that would have reduced most designers to tears. It’s one of my favorites, though it always humbles me. The USGA rating/slope of 77/149 says a lot, along with the fact it is a former PGA Tour venue (the 2003–2006 84 Lumber Classic).

At the July 2017 opening of Shepherd’s Rock, my loyalty

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wavered. A 7,151-yard par 72 with a rating/slope of 74.7/138, the new course is a joyride twisting through meadows and forests, skirting lakes and wetlands, revealing distant mountain views at many turns. It’s pastoral, reminiscent of the British Isles, with waving grasses, rock walls, split-rail fences and herds of grazing sheep. And it’s great fun, with touches of whimsy such as the stylized statues of sheep scattered throughout the course. The sheep and statuary, like the luxurious comfort stations, are among Magerko’s touches.

The bunkers — 149 deep sand traps often backed by mounds — are no laughing matter, but Nemacolin’s director of golf Mike Jones points out they are, “positioned to indicate the best route and give you choices.”

One great feature of the layout is the “infinity greens,” which seem poised on the edge of the unknown. Pete Dye eschews backgrounds on most greens to showcase the setting, drawing the eye to

distant views. The result is visually pleasing, says Liddy, but also “plays with your depth perception.” I can attest to that!

HOLE 1 | 590 yards, par 5

Shepherd’s Rock opens with an eyecatching but intimidating par 5. The fairway rises and banks left around a nest of pot bunkers bordered by tall grasses. On the second shot the landing area shrinks to a passage between mounds and bunkers on the right and a drop-off on the left. The approach to the front-sloping green is open, but deep bunkers defend each side.

HOLE 4 | 619 yards, par 5

Did I mention the course is heavily bunkered? The view from the tee is a gaggle of grassy dunes with sand traps at their feet set into the elbow of a dogleg right. It’s an effective deterrent to cutting the corner. The mounding continues up the center of the fairway. If you’ve played the left side to avoid trouble, there’s a rude awakening at the elevated green, where a massive bunker lined with railroad ties protects the approach from that side.

PASTORAL PLAY: Hole 18 (top), and Hole 5 (bottom)

HOLE 5 | 214 yards, par 3

PHOTOS: © DONNELLE OXLEY​

The first par 3 is a beautiful example of an infinity green. Jones told me it was originally in a low-lying area, level with the lake. Raising the green blocked the view of a small irrigation building and the tees for the next hole — and made the shot visually intimidating. From the tee, it looks as if the lake is right behind the green, but it’s actually 50 yards away. The tiered putting surface slopes to the front and drops on the right side to two levels of bunkers.

Nemacolin Woodlands Resort Shepherd’s Rock 1001 Lafayette Drive Farmington, PA 15437 tel 866 344 6957 nemacolin.com

HOLE 10 | 388 yards, par 4

Just when you’re getting used to open meadows and grazing sheep, the course ducks into the forest and changes character. A grassy pit lies in the middle of this fairway, which pitches right toward woods and deep rough. The depression seldom comes into play, but the incline of the fairway does. Even if your drive lands high on the left side of the fairway it can bounce down to a nasty patch of wetlands beneath a rock wall. Or it can trickle down to the front of the green, avoiding the drop-offs on the right and back sides of the putting surface.

HOLE 18 | 455 yards, par 4

Originally, Hole 9 was slated to be the finishing hole, and it would have been a good one, rising as it does to a 50-mile view of the mountains. What is now 18 was a troublesome hole, according to Liddy. When the designer asked for a dramatic (and expensive) redo, Magerko and her father, Joe Hardy, agreed.

The result is a spectacular hole that runs alongside a lake and ends at a green backed by a waterfall.

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chefs

ISLAND FRESH Chef Joseph Almoguera serves up world-class cuisine at Prince Waikiki. BY KIMBERLY KROL

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WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Anthony Bourdain because of his travels and what I learn from them.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? My grandfather — watching him cook taught me the proper steps to cooking.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? My favorite food city isn’t actually a city. It’s the island of Guam, where I was born and raised. Various kinds of FLORIDA kelaguen, finadene, kadun pika and red rice are just some of the delicious food of the Chamorro cuisine.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG MIAMI TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? I think Filipino cuisine is emerging on the food scene.

PRINCE WAIKIKI 100 Holomoana St. Honolulu, HI 96815 tel 808 956 1111 princewaikiki.com

PHOTOS: © PRINCE WAIKIKI

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? Japan influenced my cooking style and dishes. I experienced the care and tradition in the food. When composing menus, I use tradition and heritage as inspiration.

ean Oc ntic Atla

JOSEPH ALMOGUERA DISCOVERED his passion during his high school years in Guam. Today the chef de cuisine for 100 Sails Restaurant & Bar at Prince Waikiki, Almoguera says it was working in kitchens while learning about hotel operations as a teenager that ignited the spark for a career in the culinary world for him.

Almoguera moved to the Big Island of Hawai’i in 1999, then to Oahu in 2008. Throughout that period, his career spanned John Taiyo’s Cuisine Corp., Kuakini Health System, Hilton Waikoloa Village, The Fairmont Orchid and Waikoloa Beach Marriott. While working with chefs from Japan and Hungary, Almoguera refined the art of ice carving. In his free time, he’s also drawn to the water, surfing and bodysurfing with his children.

Rivaling the delicacies is the vista from 100 Sails Restaurant & Bar, located on the third floor of Prince Waikiki and offering views of the many sails in the harbor and ocean below. For breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, Chef Almoguera serves fresh island cuisine with foods from various cultures.

Signature menu items include the Tako taco, crispy garlic soy chicken with spicy banana ketchup, poke tempura, uni carbonara, Prince shaved ice, and chocolate macadamia nut pie.

Located at the entrance to Waikiki, Prince Waikiki offers more than 563 oceanfront accommodations and suites, complemented by world-class service and, of course, exceptional cuisine.

An

urban resort in Los Angeles offering luxurious accommodations, California French dining, newly redesigned bar with live entertainment, spacious meeting rooms, complimentary high-speed internet, spa and salon services, fitness center and more.

SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS | 8555 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CA 90048 | 310-278-5444 WWW.SOFITEL-LOS-ANGELES.COM

cruising

SEA OF THREE CONTINENTS Choose your own way to cruise the Mediterranean. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

THE MEDITERRANEAN IS THE second-most popular cruise destination in the world, and for good reason. Nowhere else on Earth combines such an array of stunning marine settings with so many iconic, cultural and historic treasures. Cruise passengers can comb the ancient ruins of Greece and Italy, party on the Riviera, sip the wines of southern France, island-hop along the Iberian Peninsula or explore the walled cities of the Dalmatian Coast.

Sea-going travelers seeking to make their own odysseys in the Mediterranean have a full berth of choices among international cruise lines, with ships ranging from large resort vessels to small luxury ships. High season for Mediterranean cruises commences in June and tapers off by November. Experienced cruisers often prefer autumn or spring sailings when temperatures are milder and ports less crowded. Winter sailings are sparse, although the Mediterranean is inching toward becoming a major year-round cruise destination.

Cruises in the Western Mediterranean are four times as popular as cruises in the Eastern Mediterranean, where smaller luxury lines predominate, offering educational voyages to the Greek Isles; the Adriatic coastline of Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro; and, until recent political problems flared up, the treasure houses of Turkey and Egypt. Italy hosts the most cruises, followed in order by Spain, France and Greece. Eight Mediterranean ports served more than 1 million passengers each last year, led by Barcelona, Rome (Civitavecchia) and Venice. Marseille and

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the Balearic Islands of Spain (including Majorca and Ibiza) also topped the million-passenger mark, as did Athens (Piraeus) and two more Italian ports, Naples and Genoa.

Picking a Mediterranean cruise depends in part on selecting an itinerary with the ports, major and minor, that interest you most, whether they be Rome or Athens, Gibraltar or Santoríni, Florence or Monte Carlo. Another determining factor is which cruise line to book. Nearly 50 cruise lines deploy at least one of their ships to the Mediterranean this summer. Holland America, Princess, Royal Caribbean, Norwegian, Celebrity, Disney, Cunard and Carnival are among the largest operators with the largest ships, while Silversea, Seabourn, Viking, Crystal, Windstar, Oceania, Regent Seven Seas and Azamara Club Cruises lead the ranks of smaller luxury options. For Mediterranean trips year-round or shorter than a week’s duration, there are several international, European-based lines to choose from, including Costa Cruises (an Italian cruise line headquartered in Geneva), MSC Cruises (the world’s fourth-largest cruise company) and Variety Cruises (an Athens-based operator of boutique ships and mega-yachts).

Enclosed by Europe, the Middle East and Africa, the wide Mediterranean has plenty of space to accommodate the world’s major cruise lines while packing enough attractions to reward a lifetime of sailings, whether you yearn to see Vesuvius or Venice, Capri or Crete.

BY THE SEA:

Cruise ship along the shores of Santoríni island, Greece PHOTO: © SMALLREDGIRL | DREAMSTIME

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feature | airline update

Reasons to Smile Alaska Airlines expands routes and fleets exponentially. BY KARIN LEPERI UP TO DATE:

(Left to right) New livery, check-in, and seat-back tablet holder PHOTOS: © ALASKA AIRLINES

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UNLESS YOU LIVE IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST, chances are you aren’t familiar with Alaska Airlines. However, with the rapid expansion of routes because of its recent $2.6 billion, all-cash acquisition of Virgin America, all that is changing in a big way.

The hooded Eskimo with a faint smile on the aircraft tail now flies to 117 destinations with nearly 1,200 daily flights in the United States, Mexico, Canada and Costa Rica. West Coast hubs include Seattle (SEA), Portland (PDX), Anchorage (ANC), San Francisco (SFO) and Los Angeles (LAX). But not all aircraft sport the telltale FEBRUARY 2018

logo, as Alaska Air Group — the parent organization for Alaska Airlines, Virgin America, Horizon Air and SkyWest Airlines — says it will be sometime in 2019 before it retires and repaints the Virgin America brand.

Nevertheless, the native Alaskan grin may broaden, as the acquisition now catapults the fast-growing airline to the fifth-largest carrier in the nation. That translates into the Alaska Air Group offering more flights to more destinations from the Pacific Northwest.

Under the leadership of Brad Tilden, chairman and chief executive officer, Alaska Air Group, headquartered in Seattle, the combined airlines will continue to focus on “low fares, profitable growth of the route network, and on becoming the easiest airline to fly.” Passenger comfort and fuel efficiency continue to be the focus.

Travelers agree the Alaska Airlines’ Mileage Plan is one of the best in the United States, as the airline racks up

awards to prove it. For the third year in a row, Alaska Airlines received top honors according to U.S. News & World Report’s list of Best Airline Rewards Programs. The ranking is based on a combination of six factors for frequent-flyer programs: ease of earning a free round-trip flight, benefits, network coverage, flight volume, award flight availability and airline quality ratings.

Chief among reasons for Alaska Airlines’ award streak is travelers’ ability to earn miles more quickly than in other airline programs based on award points for spending rather than flying. “Unlike other programs in the industry, our members earn miles based on how far they fly on us — not just what they spend — and we offer a generous upgrade policy for elite members,” said Sangita Woerner, vice president of marketing, Alaska Airlines.

Additionally, J.D. Power and Associates ranked Alaska Airlines Highest in Customer Satisfaction Among Traditional

Carriers in North America for 10 consecutive years from 2008 to 2017.

One thing is certain: Alaska Airlines retains a huge fan base of frequent flyers for a variety of reasons. Midgi Moto, owner, Juneau Food Tours, recently flew Alaska Airlines from Juneau to Anchorage, accidentally leaving her Kindle on the plane. “One quick FB message to Alaska Airlines and within a couple of hours we were reunited! Thank you, Alaska Airlines!” Moto wrote on her Facebook page.

Besides stacking up awards and customer loyalty, Alaska Airlines is known as an innovator when it comes to passenger incentives. For example, it recently featured a specially chartered solar eclipse flight for invited astronomers and guests to experience the first total solar eclipse in 99 years to cover America from coast to coast. On Aug. 21, 2017, the Alaska Airlines flight left Portland International Airport for a journey at 35,000 feet over the Pacific Ocean. With prime seat

is ines l r i A one ska ving a Ala h for ous wn igor r kno t os in he m ams r g of t o g pr need inin lots i tra P ld. wor ainthe f tr o s a r yea for six lify a u ctic to q r Ar o f ing ate . ific ions cert rat e p ht o flig

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CUSTOMER COMFORT:

(Left to right) Premium Class, and cabin experience PHOTOS: © ALASKA AIRLINES

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viewing, passengers were some of the first to experience totality.

Alaska Airlines also partnered with several leading wine destinations covering areas in Oregon, Idaho, Washington state and California. The deal allows up to a case of wine to fly free, provided it’s packed for shipping.

Then there’s the early boarding for sports fans in Seattle, the hometown of Alaska Airlines. Currently, the airline allows early boarding for anyone wearing a Russell Wilson jersey. Certain conditions apply: Passengers must fly from Seattle and must be Seahawks fans sporting the quarterback’s jersey.

“We’ve also been investing in our onboard product, incorporating some of the things people love most of Virgin America onto Alaska Airlines’ fleet, including mood lighting and music,” says CEO Tilden. “And we’re doing the same thing on the Virgin America fleet, just last month rolling out free movies and Free Chat on Virgin America flights, like we’ve had at Alaska Airlines since January. We also just announced our plan to install satellite WiFi across the entire mainline fleet.”

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Before the 2016 acquisition of Virgin America, Alaska Airlines maintained an all-Boeing 737 operational fleet built in the Seattle metropolitan area. The fleet comprised 156 Boeing 737 aircraft with an average age of 8.7 years.

Horizon Air and contractor SkyWest Airlines also fall under the Alaska Air Group umbrella, maintaining a regional operational fleet of 52 Bombardier Q400 aircraft and 10 Embraer E175 aircraft. In 2016 the group announced a purchase of 30 Embraer E175 aircraft, with delivery of seven as of summer 2017.

Alaska-owned Virgin America added a combined total of 65 leased Airbus A320s to the operational fleet, with most leases running through 2021. Alaska Airlines expects to merge these planes into its fleet sometime in 2019, when the airline anticipates the FAA will grant it a single operating certificate. With the purchase of Virgin America, Alaska Air Group now boasts 20,000 employees and 280 aircraft.

According to CEO Tilden, “We’re making great progress

on the integration with Virgin America. Our team is working hard to fulfill our purpose of creating an airline that people love. Since closing the deal, we’ve announced 30 markets, most in the Bay Area, growing our California footprint considerably. Our goal for California is to borrow on the strategy that has worked so well in the Pacific Northwest: fly non-stop to the top destinations our customers want to go.”

To be sure, the sudden expansion and acquisition of aircraft other than Boeings created growing pains within the Alaska Air Group. Foremost, the company will need to decide whether it remains a mixed fleet or reverts to an all-Boeing 737 fleet.

Obviously, the decision will impact pilot recruitment and training.

Then there’s the issue of Virgin and Alaska having two different cultures. While Alaska is known

for its punctuality and homespun hospitality, Virgin sports a stylish, urbane yet edgier look and feel. Can the two become one?

While asset and culture integration are challenging, so too are the issues of pilot compensation and pilot shortage. CEO Tilden cited the lack of pilots at the regional carrier Horizon Air as the reason behind fewer on-time arrivals and more delays and cancellations recently in the Northwest corridor.

Alaska’s iconic livery — the Eskimo face painted on the vertical stabilizer — debuted in the early 1970s and received a facelift in January 2016.

“It’s the same person, the same symbol — but he is bigger, bolder and more impactful,” said marketing vice president Woerner. Tilden remarked how he felt the Eskimo was a personification of the company, a community with a rich history and a dynamic future.

ABOUT ALASKA AIRLINES Route system: 117 destinations in four countries Alliance: Codeshare agreements with some members of oneworld and with some other airlines Loyalty program: Alaska Mileage Plan Fleet: 280 aircraft including Boeing 737; Airbus A319, A320 and A321; Bombardier Q400; and Embraer E175 Markets: North America (United States, Canada, Mexico) and Central America (Costa Rica) Hubs: Seattle (SEA), Anchorage (ANC), Portland (PDX), San Francisco (SFO) and Los Angeles (LAX) ALASKA AIRLINES alaskaair.com

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feature

Going It Alone For an assortment of reasons, more travelers choose to journey on their own. BY KATIE MCELVEEN FOUR YEARS AGO, when Los Angeles public relations executive Sara Swiger decided to take a vacation to Poland, Hungary and Austria, she did something she’d never done before: She traveled alone. “I wanted to go somewhere I’d never been,” she says. “Since I had no one to travel with, I went by myself.”

The experience turned out better than she could have possibly expected. “I found that I was more present and paid better attention to details than when I’d traveled with friends,” she recalls. “I had such a great time that even though I’m now in a relationship, I’ve continued to travel alone from time to time.”

Pamela Woods of Columbia, S.C., remembers begging people to travel with her to exotic locales. “I got tired of waiting, so I took off on my own,” she says.

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“It was incredibly freeing not to be roped into someone else’s schedule or bad mood.”

Swiger and Woods aren’t alone. “Solos are a growing movement, particularly among females in their late 20s and early 30s,” says Tom Marchant, cofounder and owner of the Virtuoso-affiliated travel planning company Black Tomato, which lists solo travel on its website alongside more traditional headings like honeymoons and family travel. “Whether they’re in a relationship or not, younger people are looking to recalibrate and find inspiration.”

Research supports Marchant’s observation for all demographics: According to the 2015 Visa Global Intentions Study, 24 percent of respondents traveled on their own on their most recent leisure trip, up from 13 percent in 2013. Among first-time travelers, 37 percent travel alone, up from 16 percent.

Then there’s the rise in apps like Couchsurfing, Meetup and The Outbound, which connect visitors with locals who want to share their communities. Swiger reports meeting one acquaintance who took her on a cycle tour of the city she was visiting.

“Seeing the city through a local’s eyes completely changed my perception,” she says.

As the number of travelers hitting the road on their own continues to rise, travel professionals reach out to this growing

FACE TO FACE:

Backpacker making friends with a yak near Rakaposhi Base Camp in Karakoram Mountains, Pakistan PHOTO: © PAOP | DREAMSTIME

market. Norwegian Cruise Line, for instance, launched a Solo Initiative in 2010 with 128 studio rooms designed especially for passengers traveling alone. Priced a bit higher than the per-person price of a typical interior stateroom but less than a single supplement, the studios are grouped together in a key-controlled area with access to a private lounge where singles can gather. “The studio rooms [have] been in extremely high demand from the beginning,” says Vanessa Picariello, Norwegian’s senior public relations manager. “We’ve included them on every ship we’ve launched since 2010.” Holland America Line also has a stash of solo cabins, both on existing ships and on the ms Nieuw Statendam, launching in December 2018. “Since they’re priced at less than the single supplement, these single cabins give solo travelers the opportunity to sail for less,” says Erik Elvejord, public relations director, Holland America Line.

The trend has also reached river cruise lines. In 2018 Uniworld, noting a 25 percent increase in solo travelers, will reduce or waive the dreaded single supplement on select cruises. “Uniworld wants travelers to see the world their way, and we’re hoping these great prices will allow solo travelers to do so,” says Ellen Bettridge, president and CEO, Uniworld.

Explorers who really want to see the world on their own terms often turn to professionals like Susan Farewell, owner of Farewell Travels, a travel design firm based in Westport, Conn. In the past few years Farewell has planned an increasing number of solo excursions throughout the world. And while the demographics of her singles vary widely — they’re married and uncoupled and span a wide range of ages — she finds one thing they share is a sense of independence. “One of my solo clients is a 70-year-old woman with the adventure spirit of an 18-year-old,” says Farewell. “She went to Oman last year and just recently spent two weeks in Iran.”

Farewell credits social media with giving the solo trend an assist. “All those Instagram posts of exotic vacations that come across your feed increase your awareness of what’s out there,” she says. “People think, ‘I’ve gotta get out there!’ And they do.”

Beyond creating bespoke itineraries filled with diversions — after-hours museum tours, private horseback excursions, one-on-one mountain treks — Farewell provides clients with an on-the-ground contact who can provide services ranging from tracking down a late-arriving guide to helping ship home oversized purchases. Depending on the traveler or the destination, she’ll schedule private guides or even add a small group component. “Activities that involve complicated logistics such as luggage transport and bush planes, like a multiday bike trip or a safari, work more smoothly in SOLO SOJOURN:

Boat trip in Phang Nga, Phuket

PHOTO: © JESSAMINE | DREAMSTIME

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a group setting,” she explains. “The key is to make sure the group has similar goals and skills.”

Leah Smith, president, Trafari Travel, a Denver-based Virtuoso travel agency, says many clients use solo travel as a way to restart a passion from their past they put on hold for family or career. “But they don’t know how to get started, which is where we come in,” she explains. “By cutting down on that barrier of fear, we’re allowing them to take that step. But once they do it, they do it again.”

Over the years, Smith found many of her first-time solo travelers gravitate toward cruises or group tours.

“They get the confidence that comes with a group but don’t have to compromise on activities,” she explains.

Melissa da Silva, president, Trafalgar Tours, has seen that in real time, noting 15 percent of the company’s guests opt to travel solo; adventure tour company Butterfield & Robinson has seen a 50 percent increase in solo female travelers. Contiki Travel is going after the solo market with its recently launched Independent Insider program that meets the needs of individualists with adaptable itineraries, allowing them to choose the length of the trip and cherry-pick activities. “Today’s solo travelers demand flexibility within a social setting,” says Adam Cooper, president, Contiki USA. “As travelers become more confident on their own, we need to continue to seek out ways for them to see the world on their terms.”

A number of hotels and resorts also launched packages aimed at guests flying solo. One is The Chanler at Cliff Walk, a boutique hotel in Newport, R.I. Cherie’lin Toporowski, director of sales and marketing, developed the package to help single guests enjoy both the city and the hotel. “We felt that many solo travelers were missing out on activities because they were only bundled into packages for two,” she explains.

To make the package even more appealing, it includes flexible options like a food and beverage credit instead of dinner. “Not everyone wants to dine alone in the restaurant, but they might want to have a couple of glasses of wine and an appetizer,” she says.

Wellness resorts, once the bastion of girlfriend getaways, are also making changes to attract more singles. Judith Burdick, a regular solo guest at Red Mountain Resort in St. George, Utah, appreciates the welcoming gestures made by the resort to help keep independent guests from feeling isolated. “There couldn’t be a more perfect place for solo travelers,” she says. “Beyond the structure of the schedule for outdoor activities and the option of a communal table to sit at for all meals, there is a real sensitivity to the needs of such travelers which makes it easy to come alone.”

Tracey Welsh, general manager, Red Mountain Resort, says 35 percent of the resort’s guests travel alone. “Even on vacation, the woman tends to be the caregiver,” she says. “Time to truly relax has become the biggest luxury, and sometimes the only way to get it is to take a trip alone. When our solo guests leave, they feel empowered and ready to go back to their lives.”

PURSUING A PASSION:

A traveler with a barongsai performer at a Chinese Lunar New Year event in Central Java, Indonesia (top); and yoga at Red Mountain Resort PHOTOS: © AKBAR SOLO | DREAMSTIME, © RED MOUNTAIN RESORT

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Offering more than 250 nonstop destinations.

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mice | BUENOS AIRES

Perpetual Motion Buenos Aires bustles with amenities for global meetings and events. BY RON BERNTHAL

dare, If you f one o visit res’ os Ai Buen gas milon many go ll tan (sma o s). G venue , p ress u late, d f lots o drink y r and t wine with ep up to ke cals. the lo

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DESIGNATED LATIN AMERICA’S smartest city, Buenos Aires’ digital innovation, sustainability, open government and technology advancements put it at the forefront of the trends hitting Latin America’s largest cities. Buenos Aires recently ranked No. 1 in Latin America on the IESE Cities in Motion list, ahead of cities like Santiago, Montevideo and Mexico City.

These improvements attract an increasing number of conferences and exhibitions to the city. The International Congress and Convention Association noted the 103 international conventions held in 2016, up from 82 in 2015, made Buenos Aires the top MICE destination in Latin America. This figure is expected to rise with the opening of a new convention center, expanded hotel capacity and the lifting of regulations that limited international flights to the country. New and resumed international air routes have already been approved, including United Airlines’ resumption of daily, non-stop service to Buenos Aires from New York.

The $70 million Buenos Aires Exposition and Convention Centre opened in 2017 in vibrant Recoleta, close to many of the best hotels, attractions and public transportation. The LEED-certified complex comprises three underground levels, a large rooftop garden and

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integrated solar panels that comply with the city’s highest sustainability standards. Numerous bus lines, 900 parking spaces and, soon, a new underground subway station ensure excellent transportation options from all areas of the city.

With more than 193,000 square feet of exhibition space, the structure accommodates up to 5,000 delegates. The main auditorium is partitioned into three separate spaces, with a second auditorium available as well as a gastronomic hall, machine room, press room, storage space, administrative offices and additional work spaces. In October 2017 The Smart City Expo World Conference inaugurated the structure, attracting more than 15,000 visitors over three days.

Established in 1886, La Rural, the city’s other large convention venue, hosted 177 events in 2016, including large agricultural exhibits.

The massive Argentina Motor Show drew more than 500,000 visitors here last June. Its nine buildings within expansive grounds in Palermo include beautifully renovated structures from the early 1900s.

Business and leisure travel to Argentina has been so strong, hotel occupancy increased by 10 percent from the third quarter of 2016 to 2017, according to the hotel research firm STR. Convention center and event calendars in Buenos Aires were full in September, October and November 2017 with corporate and association events, a tennis tournament and a rugby match with New Zealand. As of Jan. 2, 2017, the Argentinean government exempts all foreign tourists from the accommodations tax of 21 percent.

With a population of close to 3 million, and more than 12 million in metro Buenos Aires, local Porteños are proud of their Spanish heritage. The birthplace of tango, the city boasts world-class opera, theater and art, with well-preserved European-style architecture and

restaurants serving Malbec wines from Mendoza and cuts of beef fresh from the pampas. Each neighborhood has its own colorful streetscapes with outdoor cafés, murals, green fútbol pitches, and late-night tango clubs in historic districts.

The newly renovated 417-room Hilton Buenos Aires provides the most convention and meeting space of any city hotel, with 32 meeting rooms and 72,290 square feet of function space, including 22,000 square feet of exhibit space for up to 2,700 persons. The hotel is located on Puerto Madero, a manmade island connected to downtown by several bridges, including Santiago Calatrava’s stunning Puente de la Mujer.

Puerto Madero is a trendy and pricey oasis of deluxe hotels and restaurants, soaring office and residential towers and a marina.

The newest deluxe property, the Alvear Icon Hotel & Residences, offers 159 guestrooms and suites and a bar/restaurant on the 33rd and 34th floors with 360degree views. There are six dining venues, eight small meeting rooms and a heated pool with a retractable roof on the 19th floor. Across the street, the Faena Arts Center in a historic industrial building is great for off-site events.

The Alvear Palace Hotel, the city’s grande dame, has a magnificent Belle Époque atmosphere and 5-star amenities. Opened in 1932 in Recoleta, it offers 207 spacious guestrooms decorated in Empire and

Louis XV styles. L’Orangerie and La Bourgogne offer gourmet dining, and seven conference rooms handle deluxe meetings.

The Brick Hotel – MGallery by Sofitel in Recoleta boasts 175 guestrooms and suites and a lobby and restaurant splashed with colorful paintings by South American artists. Seven divisible rooms host meetings, private catering and social events for up to 400 people.

All the Recoleta hotels, including the Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt (165 rooms and suites; 9,170 square feet of event space) and Four Seasons (97 rooms, 49 suites; 11,528 square feet) are within walking distance of the new convention center.

The 315-room InterContinental Hotel sits close to Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada, the national government headquarters, and provides 16 flexible meeting rooms totaling 14,000 square feet and a banquet capacity of 800.

One of the larger properties for events is the 742room Sheraton Buenos Aires in the San Martin district, between Recoleta and Puerto Madero. With total event space of 70,000 square feet and 15 meeting rooms, its largest room measures 14,000 square feet.

The Viceroy Buenos Aires, to open in 2019, is the only hotel planned for Madero Harbor, with 125 guestrooms and 30 residences. Guests will enjoy proximity to a shopping center with 120 retail outlets, restaurants, nightlife, cinemas and a heliport.

DESIGNED FOR BUSINESS: (Left to right) The new Buenos Aires City Hall, Galerías Pacífico shopping center, Hilton Buenos Aires MICE conference, and Hilton Buenos Aires' new lobby with wicker artwork resembling fishing nets PHOTOS: © NIGEL YOUNG FOSTER + PARTNERS, © JOANNA TRICORACHE

UNIQUE VENUES The Metropolitan Design Center in the Barracas district just south of downtown features eclectic designers’ studios, exhibit space and offices within a restored 1930s fish market. Be sure to see the fabulous street art by local artist Marino Santa Maria. traditionalinnovation.blogspot.com Argentines are fond of polo and fútbol (soccer). Planners can arrange private visits to Campo Argentino de Polo, where locals and visitors watch matches, or obtain tickets to La Boca’s famous La Bombonera stadium to watch the Boca Juniors play a rival team. bocajuniors.com.ar/el-club/la-bombonera Bring your group to one of the tango shows that fill a dozen city theaters every night. The Carlos Gardel Theater, named after Argentina’s most famous tango singer of the 1920s and 1930s, offers dinner and a 90-minute show sure to impress even the most jaded traveler. esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar

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the rated l e n n Cha e covery s i e of th n D o y l h a tiv See w rn Fes e t n a . nL world e h Taiwa t n ls i estiva f t s e b

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VIENNA

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NEW YORK CITY

PHOTOS: © DIEGO GRANDI | DREAMSTIME, © CHIAYIWANGWORKS | DREAMSTIME.COM

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destination one | KUALA LUMPUR

Rising Star Kuala Lumpur transforms into a world-class city for business and pleasure. BY RICHARD NEWTON DURING MY FIRST TIME in Malaysia, I made a rookie mistake. I had a meeting scheduled across town at 5 p.m. Forty minutes would be plenty of time to get there by taxi, or so I thought. While I prepared, my hotel room was bathed in afternoon sunshine; outside, the dense skyscrapers of downtown Kuala Lumpur

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gleamed under a pristine sky. I took the elevator down to the lobby and stepped into an apocalyptic twilight.

While I had been enjoying the view from my room, a storm had massed in the opposite direction.

Now it broke. The heavens opened, with thunder and lightning. The last taxis at the hotel rank had been claimed. I had no hope of catching a ride in time for my meeting.

Late afternoon downpours are common. The traffic plows relentlessly through streets transformed to rivers while pedestrians take cover for the duration.

If you’re not already in a taxi when the rain starts, forget it.

For all its modern trappings, Kuala Lumpur remains a tropical city. Its rhythms — even its name — are defined by its environment. Founded in 1857 at the

COMING AND GOING

All U.S. citizens require a passport valid for at least six months beyond arrival. Visas are not required for business or tourism visits of up to 90 days. Visitors can apply for extensions at the Immigration Department.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Bahasa Malaysian and English; there are more than 100 tribal languages.

CITY SIGHTS: Kuala Lumpur skyline with Petronas Twin Towers (far left), view of the city from the Petronas Towers (top), Kuala Lumpur monorail (bottom left), and National Sports Complex (bottom right) PHOTOS: © TOMAS1111 | DREAMSTIME, © SALVADOR MANAOIS III | DREAMSTIME, © RAVINDRAN JOHN SMITH | DREAMSTIME, © BOKGALLERY | DREAMSTIME

LODGING ALOFT KUALA LUMPUR SENTRAL Situated opposite Sentral Station, the Aloft sports cool décor with plenty of quirky facilities, including free-to-use computer terminals and a food truck in the entrance serving drinks and snacks.

5 Jalan Stesen Sentral $$ SHANGRI-LA HOTEL KUALA LUMPUR Enjoy 5-star luxury in an excellent downtown location set within verdant tropical gardens. Upgrade to the Horizon Club for extra facilities and services, including use of a private lounge.

meeting point of two rivers, the Klang and the Gombak, Kuala Lumpur means “muddy confluence.”

From humble beginnings as a settlement for tin miners, the city became a trading hub (thanks to those two rivers) and eventually the administrative capital of British Malaya.

At independence in 1957 it was still something of a backwater, with city life largely centered on the British colonial club and the adjacent cricket field.

From that point on, Kuala Lumpur flourished against the odds. With an industrious, multicultural population (50 percent Malay, 24 percent Chinese, 7 percent Indian), the city fearlessly embraced new opportunities and established itself as one of the powerhouses of the 21st century.

This is a city that doesn’t lack ambition. In the 1990s, that ambition was expressed vertically. The 1,483-foot Petronas Twin Towers reigned as the world’s tallest buildings

from 1998 until 2004 (when the Taipei 101 Tower topped out in Taiwan). The cost was enormous (around $1.6 billion), but the twin towers served their purpose. They firmly entrenched Kuala Lumpur, and the state oil company Petronas, in the global popular consciousness.

Within the next decade, the city’s ambitions will also be proclaimed in speed. Work is just beginning on a new 220mile high-speed rail link from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore.

The project, expected to cost around $15 billion, will cut journey times from the current four to five hours by road to just 90 minutes. The provisional date for completion is 2026. At the signing ceremony for initiating the project, Malaysia’s Prime Minister Najib Razak insisted the linking of Kuala Lumpur to Singapore will be a game changer, providing fresh economic impetus for both cities.

Despite Kuala Lumpur’s relentless progress, the city

11 Jalan Sultan Ismail $$$$ VILLA SAMADHI Inspired by traditional Malaysian architecture, this small city hotel exudes a tropical resort vibe. From the ground-floor rooms you can dive directly from your veranda into the swimming pool.

8 Persiaran Madge $$$

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URBAN DESIGN: Klang and Gombak river bifurcation (top), and scale model of the Tun Razak Exchange project (bottom) PHOTOS : © PABLO HIDALGO | DREAMSTIME, © ABDUL RAZAK ABDUL LATIF | DREAMSTIME

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hasn’t entirely swept aside its heritage. One of the most notable hold-outs is the traditionally Malay enclave of Kampung Baru, located immediately to the north of the landmark Petronas Twin Towers. The district potentially boasts the most valuable real estate in the city yet stubbornly remains a low-rise jumble of modest tin-roofed houses and hawker stalls (as the rickety roadside cafés and shops are locally known). The district’s elders continue to resist the developers, though it is probably only a matter of time before Kampung Baru makes way for modern Kuala Lumpur.

In the city as a whole, development continues apace. One of the biggest civic projects, the Mass Rapid Transit metro system, opened its first line in December 2016. A second line is scheduled for completion in 2021, with a third at the planning stage. The MRT is part of a fully integrated public transport system that includes a monorail, commuter rail lines and bus routes.

A new financial district currently under construction, the Tun Razak Exchange, will include as its centerpiece a new 106-floor tower, The Exchange 106, 130 feet taller than the Petronas Twin Towers. Its dominance of skyline will be short-lived. Another rising skyscraper, Merdeka PNB 118 (aka KL118), will top out at 2,070 feet on completion in 2024.

A much less showy project aims to improve the quality of life in the city. By 2020 the Klang and Gombak rivers will be cleaned and more than 60 miles of riverbank will be beautified for recreational use. Project by project, Kuala Lumpur is transforming itself into one of the world’s great cities for business and pleasure, come rain or shine.

INFO TO GO

Most international flights arrive at Kuala Lumpur International Airport, 28 miles south of downtown, which began operations in 1998. A non-stop rail service, KLIA Ekspres, links the airport to the KL Sentral Station downtown; the journey takes 28 minutes. The old airport, Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport, 18 miles west of downtown, is predominantly used for domestic services and regional international flights to Singapore and Indonesia.

tions on a one-on-one basis versus asking questions or debating in a wider team meeting or town halls.

Paying attention to nonverbal cues, therefore, becomes important in building trust and relationships.

CHECKING IN WITH RANGA SOMANATHAN

CEO, Singapore and Malaysia, Omnicom Media Group What is your connection with Kuala Lumpur?

Kuala Lumpur is close to our hearts. It was the city where my wife and I started our married life and had our firstborn. We lived in KL 2002–2005 and returned to live there 2009–2012. Now I live in Singapore and oversee the operations for Singapore and Malaysia for Omnicom Media Group.

What opportunities does Kuala Lumpur offer American investors?

For starters, it is a great place to live — people need to experience the multicultural environment, the cosmopolitan lifestyle and the Malaysian hospitality for themselves. From a business perspective, the Malaysian government has made it easier to set up and do business in Malaysia, with a particular focus on developing the startup ecosystem — for instance, by simplifying business registration, visa clearances, tax moratoriums and so on. Add to that the abundance of trained, English-speaking workers that affords a decent talent bank for investors starting businesses in Kuala Lumpur.

Compared with the United States, is it easier or more difficult to do business in Malaysia?

Not having worked in the United States, my understanding of ease of business there is just anecdotal. In that context, I believe KL is a positive business environment. There are challenges, however. In recent years, consumer confidence has been soft, resulting in the business sentiment softening as well. This could be a cycle the country comes out of once the 2018 General Elections remove uncertainty in the market.

Are there any significant cultural differences American business travelers should be aware of?

Being from a multicultural country, Malaysians are aware of the cultural nuances of different communities, both within Malaysia and across the world. Lack of awareness of those nuances among foreigners can cause irritation or offense. In a corporate setup, people are more comfortable giving feedback and asking ques-

What are the key future developments to look for?

With massive investments in infrastructure development, including the high-speed train link to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur has the potential to become a twin city of Singapore. Singapore and Japan typically are the largest investors in Malaysia; however, in 2017 we saw an increase in foreign direct investment in the manufacturing sector from China. With the government hoping to make Malaysia the gateway to ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations), Kuala Lumpur is in a good position to leverage the opportunity.

Which local attractions do you recommend?

My all-time favorite is the Petronas Twin Towers. Built in the midst of the ASEAN financial crisis of the 1990s, it is the epitome of modern technology in confluence with ancient design elements. In and around KL, you’ll find both manmade beauties and natural wonders to visit. In addition to the Towers, Petaling Street and Pasar Seni offer a great experience of local shopping. Putrajaya, the seat of the government, is worth a visit to enjoy the natural scenery and the monumental architecture.

If one is into adventure, there are some cool nature trails in the fringes of the city, including some spectacular caves found within the country’s limestone cave formations. Driving a few hours from KL, great weekend getaways offer experiences ranging from world-class beach resorts to hill stations with a colonial vibe.

Kuala f o s n e y Citiz opularl p e r a Lumpur Lites. as K known DINING CANTALOUPE AT TROIKA SKY DINING Under Chef Christian Bauer, the menu offers an innovative fusion of European cuisines with an Asian twist, located on the 23rd floor of the prestigious Troika skyscraper.

19 Persiaran, Troika Sky Dining, Tower B, The Troika $$$$ LITTLE PENANG CAFÉ You’re not here for ambience — it’s located in the ultra-modern Suria KLCC Mall. The attraction is authentic cuisine from the Malaysian island of Penang, served quickly and cheaply.

Level 4, Suria KLCC Mall $ OPIUM At this atmospheric Asian restaurant, eat indoors or on the terrace.

Specialties include rending, the popular Indonesian dish, made here with Angus beef.

50 Changkat Bukit Bintang $$$

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +8 Phone code: Country code: 60 City code: 3 Currency: Malaysian ringgit Key industries: Tourism, retail, financial services, oil and gas, manufacturing

GOING LOCAL: Ranga Somanathan (top), and Petaling shopping street (bottom) PHOTOS: © OMNICOM MEDIA GROUP, © MOSAYMAY | DREAMSTIME

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DIVERSIONS

You can familiarize yourself with the layout of Kuala Lumpur by map, or you can go one better and view the actual city spread beneath you from the 86th-floor observation deck of the Petronas Twin Towers. The deck is open Tuesday to Sunday 9 a.m.–9 p.m., with tickets priced at $20. Tours include a crossing of the Skybridge, which links the two towers at the 41st and 42nd floors.

The Petronas Twin Towers represent the epicenter of the Kuala Lumpur City Centre district, known as KLCC. A large shopping mall, Suria KLCC, is located at the foot of the twin towers, while stretching away from it is KLCC Park, 50 acres of landscaped gardens. On the west side of the park stands the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre and, beside it, the city’s world-class aquarium, Aquaria KLCC. Kuala Lumpur’s patchwork of districts reflects the city’s cultural diversity. The area around Merdeka Square boasts many buildings dating to the British colonial period, most notably the Tudorstyle Royal Selangor Club, overlooking a cricket field, and the remarkable Sultan Abdul Samad Building which, with its domes, is straight out of a fairy tale.

Chinatown presents a dense, bustling maze of narrow streets and alleys centered on Petaling Street. It’s the place to come for authentic Chinese cuisine and cheap shopping (though be warned many of the goods are counterfeit copies of famous brands).

Brickfields, also known as Little India, houses the majority of the city’s Indian population. As with Chinatown, cuisine is one of the big draws. There’s nowhere better in the city to enjoy a great curry, often served on a banana leaf.

Bukit Bintang, the premier shopping and entertainment district, is the melting pot of this culturally diverse city; by day and especially at night, the district presents a dynamic, neon-lit mix of generations, ethnic groups, locals and tourists.

In the middle of Kuala Lumpur lies a preserved fragment of rainforest, formerly known as Bukit Nanas Reserve, now rebranded as KL Forest Eco Park. It offers winding forest trails (which can be muddy, so wear appropriate shoes) and a recently opened canopy walk for treetop views of the local birds, squirrels and monkeys.

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Batu Caves, immediately north of the city, makes a worthwhile excursion. Reach the largest cave in this natural complex, Cathedral Cave, up a flight of 272 steps.

Visit early in the day to avoid the crowds, and enjoy the coolness within the caves — relief from Malaysia’s hot humidity.

MAIN ATTRACTIONS: Batu Caves statue and entrance (top), Little India (bottom left), and Batu Caves (bottom right) PHOTOS: © IGORP1976 | DREAMSTIME, © GUILLOHMZ | DREAMSTIME, © RAVINDRAN JOHN SMITH | DREAMSTIME

stateside | DALLAS

Big Development Dallas flourishes with diverse business and job opportunities. BY SHARON KING HOGE BIG D DOWNTOWN:

Dallas at twilight PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME

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THE CITY’S NICKNAME, “BIG D,” could stand for Big Destination as companies and job applicants discover unlimited opportunities in the flourishing Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex of central Texas. Midway between America’s two coasts; a transportation hub of interstate highways, railroads and two busy airports; and with the country’s fourth-highest ranking of Fortune 500 companies, the country’s ninthmost populous metropolitan region teems with projects and programs designed to foster business and growth.

In an economy based on banking and commerce, telecommunications and computer technology, energy and transportation, health care and medical research, the Metroplex boasts one of the largest U.S. concentrations of corporate headquarters for publicly traded companies.

Since 2010 more than 75 national companies relocated

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to the region. Toyota moved thousands of employees to its new Legacy West headquarters in Plano, MoneyGram picked up stakes and moved in from Minneapolis, and Jamba Juice transferred its offices from California. Factoring in expansion of local firms, more than half a million new jobs have been added to the market.

Enhancing a city seen as “a shining example” of business opportunities, the Dallas Regional Chamber worked with member companies to create programs targeted to attract business and talent. A strategic plan of 2015 named initiatives to promote future growth by ensuring good local education and attracting workers and firms to the area.

Recognizing millennials are the key to the future, the DRC launched “Say Yes to Dallas,” a key program enticing talent with diverse job opportunities; an affordable cost of living; unique neighborhoods; unlimited access to parks, culture, arts, sports and entertainment; and “something for everyone.” The sayyestodallas.com website incorporates a jobs portal, cost of living comparison calculator, neighborhood descriptions, articles on dining and entertainment options and testimonials from contented new residents.

Describing Dallas as “the best place to live, work, and do business,” the website dfwfacts.com aims at corporate recruitment. The site promises a welcoming environment with a wealth of resources. The region’s attractive quality of life, strong regional and state economy, low cost of living, skilled labor force, pro-business mindset and absence of corporate and personal income taxes all contribute to the thriving Dallas region. How-to blueprints

s s rank a l l a D erica’s as Am t mos thirdr popula n atio destin ss sine for bu l. trave

CITY STRETCH: Yoga at Klyde Warren Park

PHOTO: © RITU JETHANI | DREAMSTIME

on figuring taxes, recording registrations, relocating employees and startup processes are provided.

Already a city of colleges, universities and trade schools, Dallas bolsters its efforts with a commitment to supporting and improving education to ensure every child has the tools needed to one day enter and compete in the workforce.

Vast city improvements back up these outreach efforts. Downtown, an urban green space now covers a once divisive section of the Woodall Rodgers Freeway. This new Klyde Warren Park provides walking trails; parks for children and dogs; a performance pavilion; and daily sessions of lectures, yoga and concerts.

To relieve the notorious congestion on I-635 — aka the Lyndon B. Johnson Freeway — that loops the city, a 13-mile stretch of the northern side has been rebuilt and expanded with a section of six new underneath lanes operated as TEX-Express.

Tolled for congestion pricing, the lanes effectively double the thruway’s capacity and ease commutes to the newly developing Dallas Midtown, a city within a city of office towers, condo units, luxury hotels, restaurants and boutiques, hiking trails and gyms, a theater and a trolley system linking it to the Galleria Dallas mall.

Bus service and the nation’s longest light rail network support commuters. America’s largest contiguous arts center and the million-square-foot column-free exhibit hall of the Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center are additional attractive features of a city aiming to become “the most economically prosperous region — and the most desirable place to live, work and do business — in the United States.” DRC vice president Jessica Heer projects unlimited potential: “Project activity is still strong, there is a lot of growth in population and companies, our future is bright.”

SCENIC DRIVES

For an excursion, follow the Dallas Cowboys out to Frisco, where the team relocated its world headquarters and practice fields to The Star, a brand-new, 91-acre campus incorporating a state-of-the-art indoor stadium, restaurants and shops. Guided tours allow fans to see Super Bowl memorabilia; take a stroll along the Nike Star Walk, chronicling 10 milestones of the team’s history; and view the War Room, where the annual NFL draft is conducted. Nearby sports complexes house local hockey, baseball and soccer teams and the National Videogame Museum, where visitors can play on the world’s largest Pong console.

Just 20 minutes northwest of Dallas, Irving is home to the Toyota Music Factory, offering concerts and performances in many of its two dozen restaurants and bars, including a branch of the popular Alamo Draft House Cinema that screens films for dining movie fans. Adjacent Las Colinas features Old World Mandalay Canals, a section of office buildings, shops and restaurants where visitors stroll along tree-lined paths beside swimming waterfowl. A breathtaking bronze sculpture of nine wild mustangs gallops across pink granite Williams Square, and an essential stop includes partaking of squash enchiladas at Via Reál, a beloved Southwesternstyle restaurant.

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9–5 | VIENNA

Viennese Vibe Get to know clients in Austria’s cultural and financial hub. BY FELICITY LONG INNOVATIVE CONVENTIONS: Austria Center Vienna

PHOTO: © MARCIN ŁUKASZEWICZ | DREAMSTIME

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VIENNA HAS A REPUTATION. Austria’s capital and cultural hub is best known for its fairy-tale charm, its imperial architecture and its iconic musical heritage. But while undeniably one of Europe’s most beautiful destinations, Vienna is also a bustling financial center and has been for centuries. Situated roughly between the Danube and the Alps, Vienna thrived as an important trade route as far back as the days of the Romans and, later, under the Habsburg dynasty for more than half a century.

Fast-forward to today, and the city numbers nearly 2 million inhabitants; in fact, it’s one of the most densely populated cities in the European Union and home to about a fourth of all Austrians. The city benefits not only

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from its location in Central Europe but also its proximity to the increasingly important emerging destinations in Eastern Europe. Bratislava, for example, the capital of Slovakia, lies less than 40 miles away.

Certain factors make it easy to do business in Vienna: The country uses the euro, English is widely spoken, and Austria resides within the Central European Time Zone (GMT +1).

This is also a city where everything works. With long-standing political and economic stability and a robust infrastructure — including transportation, medical services and such leisure facilities as restaurants and sports venues — Vienna was named the world’s most livable city for the whopping eighth time in a row, according to the 2017 Quality of Living Survey by international consultancy firm Mercer. You also won’t have trouble getting a signal here: Free WiFi abounds, and mobile websites and apps help you get around.

Environmentally, Vienna is a green city thanks to the wide use of public transportation, the profusion of city parks and an overall attention to air quality. Vienna has so much open land, it boasts a noteworthy viticultural industry of some 1,600 acres within the city limits.

Visitors find Vienna easy to access. Vienna International Airport served more than 24 million passengers in 2016. Direct flights from the United States are offered by several airlines, including Austrian Airlines, the country’s flagship carrier and a subsidiary of the Lufthansa Group. The non-stop City Airport Train links the airport to city center in just 16 minutes and operates

every half hour. Tickets cost only about $14; and if you have Hotel kids aged 14 and younger with you, they ride free. In addition, and charm of the opulence s is m to the highly advanced Hauptbahnhof central railway station, e sham asé about the It would be a nts will be bl ie cl l ca lo opened in 2014, provides seamless domestic and international ur yo don’t assume achertorte.

Sacher. And train service to other cities in Europe. the famous S of t gh si e th rticularly at Although best known for its creative industries including experience, pa music and art, the city hosts such international organizations as the Organization of the Petroleum Exporting Countries and the International Atomic Energy Agency. Vienna also serves as one of the United Nations’ four headquarters, along with New York, Geneva and Nairobi, and in 2016 it nabbed the No. 2 spot in the world as a top conference destination, according to the International Congress and Convention Association.

In 2016 the Vienna Convention Bureau hosted more than 700 international conferences, and one of those events, the Pioneers Festival, celebrates the city’s increasing reputation as an important incubator of startups.

When it comes to power breakfasts and business lunches, you’ll need to keep a few things in mind. Yes, it’s perfectly normal to talk business over a meal, but take your cue from your client, and don’t rush. Viennese meals, even power breakfasts at international hotels, are more leisurely than we’re used to, and lunch at a local establishment can be a lengthy affair.

Options for dining include such familiar brands as the Park Hyatt Vienna and the Dstrikt Steakhouse at The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna. Or go out on a limb and enjoy the city’s famous café scene — just be sure to pick the right one. There are literally hundreds of cafés from which to choose; and while some retain the bohemian vibe that’s attracted students and artists for generations, others morphed into more business-like establishments.

The 140-year-old Café Central in Herrengasse, for example, once attracted famous figures like Freud and Trotsky but now is likely to be populated by bankers, especially during the work week. Bear in mind you can make a reservation Monday through Friday — and we suggest you do — but not on weekends. Like all good Viennese cafés, it offers a vast and complex coffee menu.

Be forewarned: Your concoction might arrive with a tower of whipped cream instead of frothy milk if you don’t order carefully. The accompanying breakfast can include anything from smoked salmon and eggs to gorgeous pastries that defy any attempt at low-carb dining.

Café Central also serves lunch and dinner and stays open until 10 p.m.

Depending on the industry, people typically start The city also offers abundant options for business lunches, their office day between 8 and 9:30 a.m., but an 8 a.m.

TASTY TRADITIONS: and — unlike Spain, for example — hours for midday dining Hotel Sacher's famous power breakfast might be considered a little aggressive. Your best torte (top), and Café typically begin around noon. Meierei in Stadtpark, part of the bet is to suggest an 8:30 or 9 a.m. reservation.

Central in Herrengasse well-known Restaurant Steirereck, serves up Austrian fare at its best, If your clients skew toward millennials and you think they (bottom) including a daily four-course, wine-pairing menu along with a staggerwould be more impressed by your knowledge of barista-style PHOTO: © METSCHURAT | DREAMSTIME, © ROMAN coffee in a minimalist setting than an old-school café, try Kaffemik ing 120 varieties of cheese and a selection of pastries and cakes.

PLESKY | DREAMSTIME Dinners typically start anywhere from 6:30 p.m. to 8 p.m., and in the city’s 7th district near the trendy MuseumsQuartier. Two IT many of Vienna’s restaurants offer private dining. One to try, the professionals created the café to reflect their appreciation of highWinter Garden at the Hotel Bristol, a Luxury Collection Hotel, end, specialty java supplied by independent guest roasters and features Art Deco décor and an opulent setting. served via espresso or filter methods with a simple croissant.

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after 5 | NEW YORK CITY

Up All Night New York City hums with fun around the clock. BY MEGAN HILL

LIGHT UP THE NIGHT:

The Metropolitan Opera at Lincoln Center in Manhattan (top), and The Stonewall Inn (bottom) PHOTOS: © ERIK LATTWEIN | DREAMSTIME, © NYC & COMPANY / CHRISTOPHER POSTLEWAITE

NEW YORK CITY IS KNOWN as The City That Never Sleeps, so it should come as no surprise after-hours fun — from bars and clubs to world-class art and entertainment — is easy to come by. In fact, the sheer variety and number of entertainment opportunities in New York City is astounding. From age-old pursuits like seeing a play on Broadway to experiencing some of the best cuisine in the world, here’s where to let your hair down in the Big Apple.

New York’s club scene splits its time between Manhattan and Brooklyn, though the two offer different experiences. Manhattan specializes in glitz and glamour, with velvet ropes and high-end bottle service, while Brooklyn knows how to throw a massive rave. You might spot a celebrity at Provocateur or Le Bain in Manhattan, while House of Yes specializes in offbeat, over-the-top ragers open to anyone with a driver’s license.

The LGBTQ scene in New York is one of the country’s most prominent, thanks to historic spots like The Stonewall Inn, a bar in Greenwich Village credited as the birthplace of the modern gay rights movement. The scene lives on there and at newer spots like Nowhere, Ginger’s Bar and Cubbyhole.

The city’s dining scene has never been more exciting, with dozens of new hot spots. No longer are New York’s top spots concentrated in Manhattan only; now travelers might find the best meals of their lives in Brooklyn, Queens or the Bronx, and each borough brings a range of diverse options. Tap into the

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heartbeat of French elegance at Le Coucou in Manhattan, try a range of excellent Chinese dumplings at Dumpling Galaxy in Queens, or partake in adventurous riffs on new American cuisine at Prune in Manhattan.

Among the many things for which New York is famous, shopping certainly ranks high on the list. Whether you seek vintage treasures, rare art finds or high-end fashion, this city has you covered. Iconic shopping streets like Fifth Avenue, Madison Avenue and Broadway are packed with retail, while the Chelsea neighborhood remains the go-to spot for art galleries.

Seeking one-of-a-kind treasure? Try Brooklyn Flea, with its large market of vintage and handmade treasures.

It’s impossible to ignore New York’s world-class arts scene.

From museums like The Met, MoMA and the Guggenheim that house classic works to Chelsea and Lower East Side galleries that might house the next famous work, it’s impossible for an art fanatic to get bored here. See a legendary Broadway play, catch the opera at Lincoln Center or seek out renowned comedic performances at spots like Caroline’s and Comedy Cellar. No matter your preferences, you’ll be endlessly entertained in New York.

ork’s New Y tate eS Empir ng, Buildi d reigne which ’s world as the for 40 tallest s has it years, . p code own zi

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9–5 | CAPE TOWN

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he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

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neighborhoods | MIAMI

SOBE SCENE: The Bass Museum entry (left), and a South Beach street (right) PHOTOS © REGINA BARABAN

South Beach Buzz

ALABAMA

GEORGIA

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FLORIDA

xico Me

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Miami sail by — a spectacular sight.

Ditch the touristy restaurants on Ocean Drive and walk to Fifth Street for healthy dishes at Dirt, a farm-to-counter clean food café opened in 2015. Also on Fifth Street get the best acai bowls in town at all-organic Under the Mango Tree, a boho-chic local favorite that relocated here in late 2017.

Continue walking north on Collins Avenue for boutique shopping amid renovated Art Deco buildings. On 10th Street walk one block west to visit the Wolfsonian-FIU museum, a hidden gem in the heart of the Art Deco District. Heading up to 21st Street, explore a dazzling collection of contemporary art at The Bass, re-opened in October 2017 after a $12 million renovation.

Also on the northern boundary of SoBe, between 23rd and 24th on Collins, find the pioneering 1 Hotel South Beach that started Miami’s eco-luxury craze and consistently makes the Top 10 lists of Miami hotels. Opened in mid-2015 and completely dedicated to wellness and sustainability, the hotel takes up an entire city block. It is the chicest place in SoBe for wellness-minded activities and healthy dining.

f lf o Gu

THE SOUTH BEACH NEIGHBORHOOD of Miami Beach sizzles 24-7 with a Latin vibe. Visitors know SoBe for its beautiful beach with vividly painted lifeguard stands, outstanding Art Deco architecture, Lincoln Road pedestrian mall and boisterous nightlife on Ocean Drive. But there’s much more to discover in this diverse neighborhood of about 24 blocks on the southernmost part of Miami Beach.

The upscale enclave known as SoFi, running from 17-acre South Pointe Park to Fifth Street, has become one of Miami’s most affluent neighborhoods. At Second Street and Ocean Drive the recently renovated Marriott Stanton South Beach commands a prime location with local flair. Here you’ll find two trending restaurants: Lolo’s Surf Cantina, with tasty Mexican-inspired street eats, and Azabu, a muchanticipated new branch of the Michelin-starred New York restaurant with authentic über-fresh Japanese fare plus a vast selection of Japanese whiskeys.

For another SoFi highlight, head to South Pointe Park Pier to view the sunset over the ocean. When the sky darkens, you’ll see the lit silhouettes of cruise ships from the Port of

ean Oc ntic Atla

Discover cultural, culinary and eco-minded hot spots in this thriving Miami Beach neighborhood. BY REGINA BARABAN

MIAMI

best e is ot SoB n fo ed o r o l p ex g on ppin o h y iami or b nt M e c 5 the 2 s on h bu et.

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YOUR BODY YOUR HOPE

Your immune system may be the key to beating cancer. lmmunotherapy, a new approach to cancer treatment, is bringing hope to cancer survivors everywhere. lmmunotherapy works by empowering your body’s own immune system to correctly identify and eradicate cancer cells. This approach has been used to effectively fight many types of cancer, with new research leading to greater hope each day.

Speak with your doctor and visit standuptocancer.org/immunotherapy to learn if immunotherapy may be right for you.

Jimmy Smits, SU2C Ambassador Photo By: Timothy White

Stand Up To Cancer is a division of the Entertainment Industry Foundation (EIF), a 501(c)(3) charitable organization.

This Public Service Announcement was made possible by a charitable contribution from

friends & family | BUDAPEST

Bold and Beautiful Budapest entices with river views, architectural splendor and tasty cuisine. BY CHADNER NAVARRO ON THE DANUBE: Chain Bridge

PHOTO: © EUROPHOTOS | DREAMSTIME

rt the hea 897 in 1 in t il Bu Great ity, the c e h t f o fers an Hall of Market e of t glimps excellen . and life culture n ia r a Hung

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AT EVERY TURN BUDAPEST REMINDS YOU it is one of Europe’s great imperial capitals, but perhaps this storied grandeur is most obvious from a boat meandering down the Danube River, a rolling, glistening body of water that splits the city in half. Countless companies offer river cruises, but the best and most atmospheric is a private sail with Dunarama, which caps the number of its onboard guests at an intimate 10. The speedboat — done up with glazed wood — features plush open-air seating and a fabulous bar.

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You only need to spring for the 30-minute sunset cruise, when you can marvel at many of the city’s most iconic sights as the sky transitions from day to night. The trip starts at a leisurely pace, allowing you to take photos and selfies with outstanding monuments like the Gothic stunner that is the Hungarian Parliament on the Pest side or of the pointed towers of Matthias Church on the Buda side or as you sail underneath the 19th-century Chain Bridge once it’s lit up for the evening. The second half of the cruise, however, might make it a bit more challenging for photo ops, as the skipper cranks up the 1980s rock music and accelerates up and down the river for an unforgettable joyride. It’s a fun, high-octane take on a classic experience those bigger boats just can’t do.

Once it finishes, you’ll return to dock 8A on the Pest side right in front of one of the city’s hottest restaurants. Kiosk, a massive all-day dining complex, has become a favored hangout among Budapest’s well-heeled, who come for a bright terrace for lunch and then the glamorous dining room for after-work drinks, a bit of food and some late-night partying. For dinner, the kitchen focuses on elevated, somewhat whimsical takes on comfort dining, including a fortifying goulash soup or the burger trio of beef topped with mushrooms, goose liver with caramelized onions, and pork with blue cheese. The

CUSTOMS OF THE COUNTRY:

The thermal pools of the Gellért Baths in Buda (top), and dolls and sausages for sale at the Great Market (bottom) PHOTOS: © ROBERTO NENCINI | DREAMSTIME, © LESTERTAIRPOLLING | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING ARIA HOTEL BUDAPEST One of Budapest’s newest 5-star options, this citycenter hotel is inspired by music of all types.

Creature comforts include a stress-busting spa and a complimentary happy hour when guests can sample Hungary’s finest wines.

Hercegprímás Utca 5 $$$$$ BRODY HOUSE All 11 rooms in this atmospheric fin de siècle building are individually decorated with so much personality you could easily imagine one as your own city apartment.

Bródy Sándor Utca 10 $$$

restaurant is particularly renowned for its desserts, so leave room for fabulous pies and homemade ice cream in a variety of unusual flavors like orange cheesecake. Then grab a gin and tonic at the bar and extend the evening by hobnobbing with locals. You’ll go to bed thinking Budapest has a lot more surprises in store.

If the previous day was a bit high-energy, slowing things down may be easily achieved in this city known for its historic baths dating back to the time of the Romans.

Of the more modern iterations, the most famous is Gellért Baths in Buda. The massive wellness complex comprises a thermal bath (packed with minerals to help treat circulation problems, inflamed joints and other conditions), saunas and

a variety of pools. Massage therapists are available if you or your companion want to elevate your visit. But its architectural splendor is another reason this specific bath proves so popular. About a hundred years old now, the Art Nouveau construction features glass roofs, mosaic tiles, intricate wall sculptures and more.

Because of the diversity on offer, from Baroque to Neoclassical to Ottoman, pay close attention to Budapest’s vast architectural landscape; it really will blow you away.

Keep your eyes peeled for the Art Nouveau (or Szecesszió in Hungarian), the period in which the city truly flourished.

Architect Ödön Lechner’s works were a prominent product of this period, so seek out the structural beauty of the Szent

THE RITZ-CARLTON, BUDAPEST In the heart of town, this grand and contemporary 200-room hotel offers stylish hangouts including a lobby lounge under a stunning rotunda and a beautifully tiled top-floor swimming pool under a glass ceiling.

Erzsébet Tér 9-10 $$$$$

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DINING BORKONYHA WINEKITCHEN This Michelin-star winner with a jaw-droppingly reasonable menu serves elegant but unfussy dishes full of flavor like scallops with pork belly confit and Jerusalem artichokes. Try any of the countless labels of Hungarian wines.

Sas Utca 3 $$ KIOSK An all-day dining destination combines great décor, delicious food and a hot spot atmosphere. With a fabulous riverside location and views of one of the city’s bridges, it’s no wonder you need reservations.

Március 15 Tér 4 $$ ONYX Indulgent tasting menus of innovative twists on Hungarian dishes make this opulent dining room popular. Think mushroom velouté topped with pork espuma to start or aged rib-eye decorated with various celery preparations.

Vörösmarty Tér 7 $$$$

INFO TO GO

Budapest’s Ferenc Liszt International Airport lies about 12 miles from the center of town. Official transportation companies (for both private and group transfers directly to your hotel) operate manned kiosks conveniently placed at baggage claim and throughout airport terminals. Barring extreme traffic, a private car service into the city should cost around $25.

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László Gimnázium and the Geological Museum. For something else especially unique and local, add the stunning Zsolnay porcelain tiles to your architecture hunt. Considered Hungarian design treasures, the tiles, glazed with iridescent eosin, are most evident on the roofs of the capital’s most emblematic buildings, including the Museum of Applied Arts, Postal Savings Bank (both designed by Lechner) and Matthias Church.

But many more structures feature these tiles, which gained massive popularity at the beginning of the 20th century, so get on the new Ferris wheel in the center of town. It offers incredible views of downtown and a peek at the Zsolnay-covered roofs and façades.

If it’s really head-turning views you’re craving, you’ll want to catch the sunset at Aria Hotel’s High Note SkyBar, one of the few rooftop boîtes in all of Budapest. Pick a yellowcushioned seat, order a glass of rosé and marvel at the scene around you: a spellbinding medley of red-roof apartments and the dome, statues and towers of St. Stephen’s Basilica.

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DIVINE DESIGN:

Matthias Church exterior (top), and ceiling (bottom) PHOTOS: © VITALYEDUSH | DREAMSTIME, © CRISTIACIOBANU | DREAMSTIME

I M M E R S E YO U R S E L F IN THE BE AUT Y OF CANCUN & TULUM A romantic getaway for two, a sun-soaked break with plenty of me-time, a family-friendly vacation kids will love — at Oasis it’s all about you and having fun.

Discover amazing pools, gorgeous beaches, international cuisine, fun-filled activities, and endless entertainment including the Red Casino at Grand Oasis Cancun.

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E AT, P L AY A N D LOV E AT U N FO R G E T TA B L E A L L- I N C L U S I V E B E AC H R E S O R T S A N D C I T Y C H I C H OT E L S The Pyramid At Grand Oasis | Grand Oasis Cancun | Oasis Cancun Lite | Grand Oasis Palm | Oasis Palm Grand Oasis Sens, Adults-Only, 21+ | The Sian Ka’an At Grand Tulum, Adults-Only, 21+ | Grand Oasis Tulum | Oasis Tulum Lite Smart Cancun By Oasis | Oh! The Urban Oasis, Adults-Only, 18+

Fo r re s er vati o n s c a l l yo u r travel p rofe ssi on al or 1 ( 8 0 0 ) 44- OAS I S • www.O asi sLovesU.co m Oasis Hotels & Resorts is exclusively represented in North America by TravAmerica, Inc.

bucket list | TAIWAN

Beacons of Hope Watch in wonder as your wishes soar skyward at a Taiwan lantern festival. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

LIGHT UP THE NIGHT: (Left to right) Fireworks show at Taiwan Lantern Festival in Chiayi, the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival, and New Taipei City street scene during the Pingxi festival PHOTOS: © CHON KIT LEONG | DREAMSTIME, © RICHIE CHAN | DREAMSTIME, © NICHOLASHAN | DREAMSTIME

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THE FIRST FULL MOON BATHES the night sky across Taiwan. That’s when the Island of Formosa, meaning “beautiful island,” takes on a whole new vibe.

It’s as if this cosmopolitan hub of speed trains, night markets and the world’s tallest green building shifts into low gear. Why wouldn’t it? The annual Lantern Festival has arrived.

As jetsetters from mainland China and international wanderlusters hit the urban streets to partake in an ancient Chinese invention dating back more than two millennia, the glowing bulbous paper lanterns drift like hundreds of jellyfish toward the stars.

While the interpretations of the lantern release changed over the centuries (originally militaryrelated, later the lanterns became symbols of hope and prayer released by farmers in spring), witnessing these brilliant beacons is a bucket list-worthy phenomenon not to be missed.

“The sky lantern is considered culturally and historically significant in Taiwan, and many find it

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touching and even romantic as people write their dreams and wishes onto the lantern to release in the night sky, hoping it would come true,” says Stella Ying at the Regent Taipei as she shows a guest the small in-room lantern placed in all the rooms over the weekend. It’s just one of the complimentary tokens provided to guests staying at this luxury hotel during the Lantern Festival.

Held on the first full moon of the Chinese Lunar New Year, the festival pays homage to hope and new tidings through hubs across Taiwan, with a special nod, of course, to the animal revered in the Chinese zodiac. Ever since the Tourism Bureau of the Ministry of Transportation and Communications in Taiwan resurrected the festival in 1990, the celebration has been a crowd-pleaser. While the country declares one county as the mother ship of the Taiwan lantern festival, other hubs also ring in lantern parties in the most delightful ways.

Get ready for a special ode to the lantern in the Year of the Dog. Here are two not-to-miss places for

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport, located 25 miles west of Taipei in Taoyuan. Travelers use shuttle buses and the skytrain for terminal connections. A high-speed rail service conveniently connects to all major cities. Purchase a high-speed rail shuttle bus ticket ($1) at arrivals by terminals 1 and 2, then head to the THSR Taoyuan Station. Tickets range from $5. Car rentals, tour buses and taxis are available. Cab fare averages $31.

this bucket-list party.

High in the cloud forest in Chiayi County, home of the famous sunrise on the Alishan Mountain Range, festival goers reach heavenly elevations for the Lunar New Year cheer. This year’s Taiwan Lantern Festival, March 2–11, unites three of the five elements — water, land and air — into one uplifting lantern theme.

Besides the mountain experience, lantern festival attendees celebrate in Taibao City along a downtown stretch that culminates in merriment around the futuristic southern branch of the National Palace Museum. Hailed as the turf of the smart Taiwan Lantern Festival, this event promises to break away from traditions. Discover waltzing water displays with familiar architectural patterns of the Forbidden City, Alishan Mountain and cherry blossoms at the “water” light district.

The “air” lantern zone puts participants in touch with the Chiayi lantern exhibitions via apps accessible from their smartphones. A virtual world of LED light frequencies beams other brilliant “land” images. By the National Palace Museum, for instance, see branches of magnolias adrift in the air. As part of the interactive installation, visitors can even “water” a virtual plant and watch it grow.

Another lantern experience awaits in Pingxi where, come sunset,

crowds converge at this shrine to the lantern located in a part of New Taipei City surrounded by mountains. Residents of Pingxi originally released sky lanterns to let others know the town was safe.

Dedicated scribes to the art of lantern making can now create their own artful lantern with a wellness note, then join the others in this lantern release party. More than 1 million sky lanterns blaze across the night sky.

An hour’s drive east from Taipei, the old coal boom town is a 1920s throwback with period-set architecture, especially around Pingxi Old Street — itself a spectacle. The street, built into a hill with a train track overhead, immerses visitors in a surprise setting that swirls in shops and charming wooden houses constructed during the Japanese occupation. But come nightfall, the mood morphs into wonderment. And there among the pack of wellwishers, guests from the Regent Taipei hold their personalized lanterns created only a short time before. For this delegation of lantern bearers, not a minute is wasted as they leave their luxe suites in dizzying Taipei, led by a private butler to Pingxi for the ultimate sky lantern tradition.

By the glow of a Taiwanese full moon with necks cranked skyward, all watch their dreams take flight.

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why See ry cove ted Dis el ra n n a Ch n aiwa T e th tern Lan one val i t s Fe est he b of t s in ival t s e f ld. wor the

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kicking back | BELIZE

Going Slow Indulge in the laid-back pace of Caye Caulker’s Caribbean paradise. BY ALLISON VOIGTS CARIBBEAN COLORS:

(Left to right) Caye Caulker blue water, signs posting the way in front of wooden houses, vibrant local scene on this easygoing island, nurse sharks gathering for bait at Shark Alley, and sea turtle

PHOTOS: © MORENO NOVELLO | DREAMSTIME, © MAREK POPLAWSKI | DREAMSTIME, © SOMNIPHOBIAC | DREAMSTIME, © MILES ASTRAY | DREAMSTIME, © DIEGO GRANDI | DREAMSTIME

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STARING INTO THE JADE SEA on the way to Caye Caulker, I thought of The Sea Around Us, Rachel Carson’s classic biography of the oceans.

“The deep blue water … far from land is the color of emptiness and barrenness,” writes the great marine biologist. “The green water of the coastal areas, with all its varying hues, is the color of life.”

On this tiny Caribbean paradise, really more of a sandbar just off the coast of Belize, you can walk from main pier to northern tip in less than 20 minutes, and in only a few minutes across, though nothing ever inspires such urgency. Walking is the only option, other than renting a golf cart, since

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there are no cars. My husband and I rode one of the many daily water taxis from Chetumal in Mexico with 50 other young travelers, mostly European, and a few children lugging backpacks home from school on the mainland.

Stepping from the dock onto the white sand among the palm trees, I took off my shoes like everyone else as a pelican swiveled off a post and glided away over the surf. “Go slow!” signs preached to the choir as I passed a woman I later came to know as the “Cake Lady” and a smiling man in a banana-leaf hat. Pink conch shell vendors and sizzling grills dotted Front Street all the way up to the Split, a channel left by Hurricane Hattie decades ago.

The swift current might wobble your kayak, but it’s worth crossing to the north side’s 100-acre Forest Reserve full of mangroves, exotic birds and “wish willies,” slang for the local iguanas. I skirted the tangled roots as I maneuvered a standup paddle board from local outfitter Contour Ocean Ventures, counting herons and turtles.

Snorkeling outfits like Caveman Tours and Tsunami Adventures offer full- and half-day excursions starting from $35. The price includes a mask and flippers as well as entrance fees to the Hol Chan Marine Reserve, where you can see coral, tropical fish and the odd manatee. They also serve fresh ceviche and rum punch en route. Our shirtless guide flashed a gleaming smile as he stretched himself off the boat and flipped a hunk of fish up into the air for a frigate bird to catch.

“The face of the sea is always changing,” Carson writes. This part of the Caribbean can flicker from vivid sapphire to the carved greenstone mask of a

Mayan king but always remains like some precious stone.

I found myself staring at the water again just before plunging in to join the nurse sharks that fed on the chum our guide tipped over the side of the boat. We had reached so-called Shark Alley, and their jostling mouths greedily breaking the surface like giant carp belied their true nature, which I discovered underwater and up close to be gentle.

For such a small community, Caye Caulker teems with fine restaurants and laid-back nightlife.

The range of options from sophisticated Italian charm and live music at Pasta per Caso to beachfront drinks at The Lazy Lizard overlooking the Split — and even gourmet wine and cheese at the more secluded Dreaded Grape — made it impossible to choose. So, at the urging of some new acquaintances, we sat at a table on a small dock next to Maggie’s Sunset Kitchen.

Tucking into the stir-fried conch, a Londoner raved about the nearby Great Blue Hole, a 500-foot-deep diver’s dream at the center of an atoll only a daytrip away. A Canadian told us

about Caye Caulker’s storied place on the Hippie Trail stretching down from Tulum on Mexico’s Cancún Riviera and on to the Mayan ruins of Tikal and the natural splendor of volcano-ringed Lake Atitlan in Guatemala.

“Want to see a crocodile?” a voice whispered out of the night. We cautiously followed a local farther onto the dock until we saw it floating under our smartphone glare, a tiny caiman with beady eyes.

That didn’t deter me from heading out again for night snorkeling. Bobbing in my four feet of light that kept the inky blackness at arm’s length, I watched a translucent octopus crawl over the rocks until the guide told us to turn off our flashlights. None of the wild creatures that suddenly populated my imagination could compare to what happened next. He said to wave our hands in the water, and as I did, a glittering storm of bioluminescence materialized around my fingers. When I flailed, the water shimmered green.

The effect happens when bacteria, algae, protozoa and other floating animals congregate

LODGING

BLUE WAVE GUEST HOUSE This newer accommodation with all-important balconies stands near the Split, so you’ll have an incredible view and a fully equipped outdoor kitchen for lazy nights in.

Front Street, Avenida Hicaco $$ CAYE REEF Lounge in luxury at this boutique apartment hotel with its rooftop hot tub and hammocks.

Enjoy the local artwork on display.

Caribbean Seashore, Playa Asuncion $$$ COLINDA CABANAS This laid-back beachfront mini-resort offers reverse osmosis purified water, two bicycles with each unit and a private 175-foot pier.

Playa Asuncion $$

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DINING

AMOR Y CAFÉ Lots of homemade foods including yogurt and bread make this breakfast spot the ideal place to start your day. Enjoy fresh juices from local fruit.

Front Street $ PASTA PER CASO You’ll think you’re in Italy when you find your way to this prime spot on Front Street. It has a great wine selection and a pizza spinoff at the Split.

Front Street, Avenida Hicaco $$ WISH WILLY BAR & GRILL Grab a seat and relax in Maurice’s backyard while he fires up the grill.

The jerk chicken and jerk shrimp — well, jerk anything! — are worth the wait.

Park Street $

INFO TO GO

Daily 45-minute water taxis run morning to night from Belize City, with easy connections to the airport and other nearby islands and even Mexico.

Everywhere you’ll need to go on the island is within a 15-minute walk.

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in warm-water lagoons.

Again, Carson illuminates the experience: “Since they drift where the currents carry them, with no power or will to oppose that of the sea, this strange community … are called ‘plankton,’ a word derived from the Greek, meaning ‘wandering.’”

Our last night at Wish Willy Bar & Grill lingered under the glow of Christmas lights strung over the backyard where my toes curled beneath the table in silky sand. Through the reggae I could hear the waves nearby. When the cook, Mama Star, recognized us, she brought over two generous rum Cokes. “What time ya got?” I tried out my Creole. She just laughed and brought huge ginger-buttered shrimp and jerk chicken still sizzling from her grill, with blackened yellow peppers and plantains on the side.

We ended up walking down Front Street with a New Yorker from the next table who dubbed herself “a 74-year-old woman living the life of a gypsy.” Belize was her 79th country.

When I asked what she was doing on Caye Caulker, she replied, “Becoming part of the universe,” and wandered into the night.

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LOCAL LURE:

Caye Caulker taxi service (above), and dish of red snapper and rice with coleslaw (left) PHOTOS: © ZHUKOVSKY | DREAMSTIME, © SANDRAWILLS17 | DREAMSTIME

as lker h u a C Caye for bited a h n i been s, f year o s d e hundr eved s beli i t i t bu ts esiden r n a t Yuca' aste the C g n i e fle in ca'tan u Y f War o uted ontrib c 7 4 18 t curren to its tion. popula

2018 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

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lgbtq

Tours for Every Taste The New Year brings a lineup of diverse LGBTQ excursions. BY MARK CHESNUT TODAY’S LGBTQ TOUR and vacation packages are as diverse as the people they’re designed to satisfy. Indeed, whether travelers prefer culture, adventure or natural beauty — and whether they’re looking for a package that includes LGBTQ-specific activities like gay nightlife and pride outings or just a comfortable and welcoming atmosphere — there’s likely a tour that fits the bill.

For 2018 the offerings are especially diverse. HE Travel, one of the longest-running brands in the LGBTQ tour market, offers a Greek Classics: Gay Travel Greece Cultural Tour in September. It includes visits to landmarks in Athens, Sparta, Olympia and Delphi and guided tours of the Byzantine churches and monuments of Thessaloníki.

HE Travel also offers a New Orleans holiday getaway, slated March 30–April 3 and December 13–17, with accommodations in the French Quarter, a jazz brunch and visits to a Southern sugar plantation and Mardi Gras float preparations. Participants in the spring tour can also attend the Easter Parade and the Gay Easter Parade.

Another well-established name in LGBTQ tours, Zoom Vacations, offers an Israel tour timed to coincide with Tel Aviv’s gay pride celebration in June.

The nine-day itinerary includes accommodations in Jerusalem, Galilee and Tel Aviv; gay nightlife outings in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem; and a visit to the fortress of Masada, among other sites.

For travelers with South Asia on their minds, Minneapolis-based Brand g Vacations put together a 15-day tour, with multiple departure dates through November, called Splendors of India and the Ganges River. Participants start in New Delhi and then fly to West Bengal for a cruise along the lower Ganges River before continuing to Rajasthan and India’s Golden Triangle.

Wildlife is a big draw for Ntaba African Safaris. In April it will stage a Rainbow Safari to South Africa with a stop in Cape Town and the opportunity to search for the Big Five, as well as optional extensions to Botswana and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.

For relaxation and low-key excitement in North America, Out Adventures offers a Big Gay Canadian Cottage Getaway, June 30–July 6. It begins with a weekend in Toronto and continues to a gay-owned resort in Muskoka, where guests can choose from romantic rooms, glamping tents and entire chalets. Daily yoga, water sports and Lumberjack Day — featuring archery, axe throwing and a sawing competition — are all included.

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THE GREAT OUTDOORS:

Out Adventures' Big Gay Canadian Cottage Getaway (top), Patagonia tour (middle), and Canadian tour (bottom) PHOTOS: © OUT ADVENTURES

airport update

Room to Grow Passenger traffic drives big projects at Denver International Airport. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT stands out among the rest, not only for its iconic tented architecture resembling the majestic, snowcapped Rocky Mountains but also for its sheer size, unique art exhibits, solar energy system and many accolades.

Some 1,500 commercial flights to 180 non-stop destinations depart DEN daily, and 10 new destinations were added since Jan. 1, 2017, including Long Beach, Calif. (LGB); Belize City, Belize (BZE); Pensacola, Fla. (PNS); Columbia, Mo. (COU); Providence, R.I. (PVD); London Gatwick (LGW); and Cozumel, Mexico (CZM).

Recent carriers added include Norwegian Air in September and Copa Airlines in December, and Edelweiss will join in June. United Airlines also plans to grow its hub at DEN to 400 daily departures in 2019, potentially pushing it ahead of other hubs to become the second-busiest.

With 53 square miles of land, DEN is one of the few major U.S. airports with room to expand its current facilities. With six runways, including one measuring 16,000 feet — the longest commercial runway in North America — and room for an additional six, the airport has the opportunity to plan ahead and avoid the overcrowding plaguing airports across the country and around the world. In 2016 DEN saw a record-breaking 58.3 million passengers, an 11 percent increase year over year, ranking the airport the third-fastest-growing airport in the world behind only Kuala Lumpur (KUL) and Delhi (DEL).

Rapid passenger growth drives big projects at DEN, including a $650 million renovation of the terminal building and a $65 million gate expansion project with 39 additional gates installed by 2021. In order to accommodate the projected 80 million passengers by 2030,

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though, the airport has work to do above and below ground.

Following significant delays during Thanksgiving, the airport announced plans to increase capacity and reliability of the underground trains that ferry passengers between concourses. The Denver City Council will sign a new contract with Bombardier Transportation Holdings USA, the current train operator, worth nearly $162 million.

The contract will add 15 new employees devoted to operations and maintenance, trains and tracks.

In less serious news, the airport made headlines in November with the opening of a restaurant and bowling alley by Punch Bowl Social in the defunct Stapleton International Airport, the city’s primary hub 1929–1995. The venue offers bowling, karaoke, diner-style food and a cocktail bar.

Back at DEN, travelers welcomed the new Smashburger restaurant, a Colorado-based company, in Concourse C in November, and a second will follow in Concourse B this spring. Also coming this year is the highly anticipated Denver Central Market, with 17 new shops and restaurants including Vero Italian, SK Provisions, Curio Bar and Izzio Artisan Bakery. The high-end restaurants will open in Concourse A. Those looking for a way to unwind between flights can enjoy a private yoga session at the newly opened Yoga on the Fly in Terminal 3.

In addition to being one of the best airports for food and fitness, the airport was recognized several times in 2017 for its projects and operations, including an Outstanding Sustainability Infrastructure Development award for the Hotel and Transit Center, a No. 5 ranking among mega airports from J.D. Power, and No. 2 and No. 3 rankings for Best Regional Airport and Best Airport Serving 50–60 million passengers from Skytrax, respectively.

NEW ADDITIONS:

Seating in Concourse C (left), and Smashburger (right) PHOTOS: © DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT flydenver.com

health

Let the Sunshine In Don’t ignore the importance of daily vitamin D. DESPITE ITS NAME, VITAMIN D is a prohormone and not a vitamin. Vitamins are nutrients our bodies cannot create which we must obtain through diet and supplements. Our bodies can synthesize vitamin D when sunlight hits the skin. We need vitamin D to aid the absorption of calcium and phosphorous by the bones and teeth, making bones stronger.

Muscles need vitamin D in order to move, and nerves need it to carry messages between the brain and every body part. The immune system uses vitamin D to fight off invading bacteria and viruses. Vitamin D also helps regulate insulin levels and aids in diabetes management. It supports lung and cardiovascular health.

Lack of vitamin D affects bones and other parts of the body. Growing children who do not get enough vitamin D may have bones that are too soft and unable to support their weight, a disease called rickets. Adult deficiency can result in soft bones (osteomalacia) and decreased bone mass, leading to fragile bones. Vitamin D deficiency may also contribute to the development of certain cancers, especially breast, prostate and colon cancers. Being deficient may increase the risk of chronic diseases such as heart disease, multiple sclerosis and osteoporosis as well as infectious diseases such as tuberculosis and seasonal flu.

Research shows children given 1,200 international units of vitamin D per day in the winter reduce their risk of influenza A infection by more than 40 percent. Several studies show an inverse relationship between blood concentrations of vitamin D and the risk of type 2 diabetes. Infants who received 2,000 international units per day of vitamin D had an 88 percent lower risk of developing type 1 diabetes by age 32.

Pregnant women deficient in vitamin D seem

BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

to be at greater risk of developing pre-eclampsia and needing a cesarean section. Inadequate vitamin D in pregnant women is associated with gestational diabetes and bacterial vaginosis. However, high levels of vitamin D during pregnancy are associated with an increase in food allergy in the child in the first two years of life.

You can obtain vitamin D three ways: through your skin, from your diet and from supplements. Individuals should get 10–15 minutes of exposure to sunshine three to five times a week. Food sources of vitamin D include cheese, butter, margarine, fortified milk, eggs, yogurt, fish, fortified cereals and juices. Cod liver oil and good fatty fishes such as cod, sardines, swordfish, sockeye salmon, mackerel and canned tuna are excellent sources. As it is difficult to get vitamin D from food sources alone, you may take vitamin D supplements in the form of D2 (ergocalciferol) or D3 (cholecalciferol). Vitamin D breaks down quickly; stores of it in the body run low, especially in the winter.

An estimated 1 billion people worldwide have inadequate levels of vitamin D, and deficiencies can be found in all ethnic and age groups. Industrial countries have seen a resurgence of rickets, previously largely eradicated through vitamin D fortification. If you live north of the line connecting San Francisco to Philadelphia or Athens to Beijing, odds are you do not get enough vitamin D from sun exposure. African-Americans and those with dark skin, as well as older individuals, tend to have lower levels of vitamin D, as do people who are overweight or obese.

Signs of vitamin D deficiency include depression, frequent illness or infection, fatigue, painful bones and back, muscle pain, hair loss and impaired wound healing. Chronic vitamin D deficiency can result in obesity, diabetes, hyper-

tension, depression, chronic fatigue syndrome, osteoporosis, fibromyalgia and neurodegenerative diseases such as Alzheimer’s.

The most accurate way to measure the amount of vitamin D in your body is the 25hydroxy vitamin D blood test. If you have not had the test lately, ask your health care provider to have one drawn. A level of 20 nanograms/ milliliter to 50 ng/mL is considered adequate for healthy people. A level less than 12 ng/mL indicates deficiency.

There is a scientific debate about how much vitamin D people need. Those at high risk of deficiency may need more. Check with your health care provider about the amount you need. If you live where there is sun year-round, you may not need supplements as long as you get enough sun. Vitamin D3 supplements of 1,000–4,000 IU (25–100 micrograms) should be enough for those who do not have access to the sun. The only way to know if you need a vitamin D supplement is to have your blood levels measured. Vitamin D is essential, and correcting a deficiency is simple, cheap and can have immense health benefits.

DAILY DOSE Recommended vitamin D dietary intake by age: Birth to 12 months: 400 IU 1–13 years: 600 IU 14–18 years: 600 IU 19–70 years: 600 IU 71-plus: 800 IU Pregnant/breast feeding women: 600 IU

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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past & present

Cunard Cunard has been at the forefront of ocean travel since founder Samuel Cunard was awarded the first Transatlantic Steamship Mail contract in 1840 and the RMS Britannia sailed from Liverpool to Boston, inaugurating scheduled mail service from Europe to the United States. In the 177 years since, Cunard ships have crossed and re-crossed

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sea with legendary voyages on Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth. Renowned for impeccable White Star Service, gourmet dining, world-class entertainment and the famous Insights program, all three Queens offer luxury on a grand scale in Britannia, Britannia Club, Princess Grill and Queens Grill accommodations.

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PHOTOS: Š CUNARD

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