January 2018 Global Traveler by Global Traveler

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January 2018

A SENSE OF ADVENTURE Fulfill your dreams of exploring the world with one-of-a-kind expeditions. p. 46

ALASKA p. 72 ANKARA p. 68 ANNAPOLIS p. 60 BUCHAREST p. 66 CAPE TOWN p. 62 GUATEMALA CITY p. 54 KRABI p. 74 PARIS p. 64

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

LOOKING AHEAD HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM FXExpress Publications, Inc! Across our brands, including Global Traveler, trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com, we’re full steam ahead into 2018! How did you ring in the New Year? Just about every outlet predicts the hottest travel destination for the year ahead. I’ve read lists from Lonely Planet — which included Mauritius and the country of Georgia — to Elle Décor, suggesting Patagonia and Detroit, and U.S. News and World Report, naming St. Lucia and Serengeti National Park. A few spots we’re covering in 2018 deserve a spot on the list, in my opinion: Chernobyl (yes, you read that correctly), READY FOR TAKEOFF: Kimberly Krol in the cockpit of an Air Ukraine; Azores, Portugal; Greenland; PyCanada Boeing 787 eongchang, South Korea (we’re going to PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL examine the city post-Olympics); Mendoza, Argentina; and Antarctica. Check back throughout the year for more on these and other fantastic destinations. What’s new for 2018? Turn to page 32 to read our first Tours column, written by intrepid traveler and frequent GT contributor Kristy Alpert. This month she treks to Mount Everest, and throughout the year we’ll bring you tour company profiles, closer looks at tour types and highlights of the best treks in select destinations. Let’s take off in 2018 as we venture around the globe in this issue to Seoul, Guatemala City, Annapolis, Cape Town, Paris, Bucharest, Ankara, Krabi and Philadelphia. For adventurous travelers, check out page 46 for a look at adventure travel around the globe and experience brown bears in their natural Alaskan habitat on page 72. While I’m not piloting the plane on your next flight, I did get a chance to sit in the cockpit of Air Canada’s Boeing 787. I was on hand in Toronto at the end of last year as the airline debuted its new Signature Suite. I am, however, piloting next month’s issue, which includes a look at the rise of solo travel and kicking back in Caye Caulker, Belize. Away we go!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Digital Coordinator ALLIE MENZIONE allie.menzione@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

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KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

KRISTY ALPERT SUSAN B. BARNES MEREDITH BETHUNE DEBRA BOKUR ELLEN CLARK JACK GUY MEGAN HILL SHARON KING HOGE DALE LEATHERMAN ALLIE MOORE RICHARD NEWTON BRANDON SCHULTZ

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

named Originally e city Angora, th is of Ankara with scattered the statues of ted soft-coa d goats. Rea t the more abou ty on Turkish ci page 68.

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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NEW BEGINNINGS WHEN WE START OFF THE NEW YEAR, we always try to better ourselves and project how we will achieve these goals. At Global Traveler, we are bettering ourselves by expanding our brands digitally into the under-served family travel market. Most of those currently writing about family travel do so as a side thought or to document their occasional family travel experiences in a blog or through social media. Now that WhereverFamily has gotten its feet wet, you can clearly see we dedicate this publication to the true needs of HIGH POINT: Francis X. Gallagher with the spectacular team at Ray’s Grill atop the traveling families. What sets us apart is Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, Abu Dhabi our firm belief the publication should PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER be independent, with no associations, written and run by and for the American family traveling domestically and internationally. Please welcome whereverfamily.com to the FXExpress Publications, Inc. family! This issue marks the end of voting for the Leisure Lifestyle Awards and the beginning of the 2018 GT Tested Awards. You’ll find both ballots in these pages — I know you value the opportunity to offer your opinions and rate the best in business and luxury travel. This issue closed as we awarded the best of 2017 last month at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. This year will mark the 15th anniversary of the GT Tested Awards, a true milestone. I wonder if any travel categories will secure the unprecedented 15-time win — we shall see in December! The new year also marks the end of the holiday season and the beginning of our intensive travel from coast to coast and from country to country to secure marketing plans and for our journalists to travel and report on global travel conditions. I plan to jump coast to coast and north to south to meet with our clients and discuss exciting ways to reach our multiple target platforms for travelers. Between Global Traveler magazine, globaltravelerusa.com, trazeetravel.com and whereeverfamily.com, we hit every core facet of the market, from business travelers to millennials. I hope to see you on board soon — and find a way to make business a pleasure while traveling in 2018!

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contents

January 2018 60

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

42 The Ride Revolution Despite struggles, Uber and Lyft continue to change the way we get around.

54 Destination One: Guatemala City A new optimism begins to boost tourism in Guatemala City.

46 A Sense of Adventure Fulfill your dreams of exploring the world with one-of-a-kind expeditions.

60 Stateside: Annapolis When it comes to business, all’s shipshape in Annapolis.

50 See You in Seoul Get down to business at an event in South Korea’s capital.

62 9–5: Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients.

52 6

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ON THE COVER

January 2018

A SENSE OF ADVENTURE Fulfill your dreams of exploring the world with one-of-a-kind expeditions. p. 46

64 After 5: Paris The city’s neighborhoods hum with dusk-todawn enchantment.

JANUARY 2018

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ALASKA p. 72 ANKARA p. 68 ANNAPOLIS p. 60 BUCHAREST p. 66 CAPE TOWN p. 62 GUATEMALA CITY p. 54 KRABI p. 74 PARIS p. 64

COVER PHOTO: KAYAKING ON ALASKA'S GLACIAL WATERS © GAIL JOHNSON | DREAMSTIME

PHOTOS: © NATEE MEEPIAN | DREAMSTIME, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME, © HONGQI ZHANG (AKA

FEATURES

MICHAEL ZHANG) | DREAMSTIME, © ELLEN CLARK

contents

January 2018

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

26 27 30 32 34 36 40 41 78 81

10 13 16 22

66 Neighborhoods: Bucharest Spend a day in the open air exploring Bucharest’s parks.

Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Tours Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Denver International Airport 24 One on One Aerolineas Argentinas 80 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

68 Friends & Family: Ankara Immerse in Ankara’s authentic traditions and modern ambience. 72 Bucket List: Alaska Come face to face with Alaska’s bears in their natural habitat. 74 Kicking Back: Krabi Explore one of Thailand’s most beautiful destinations.

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JANUARY 2018

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2018 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © RAZVAN DINICA | DREAMSTIME, © OKSANAPHOTO | DREAMSTIME, © GREANGGRAI HOMMALAI | DREAMSTIME, © FINISTERRA SPA

mail call NOVEMBER Q&A WITH CARLY ALLEN

Q&A WITH JANICE HECHT, SENIOR EDITOR

In the November issue our executive vice president and associate publisher, Carly Allen, talked about her solo weekend vacation to Maui, Hawai’i. Carly snorkeled in the Molokini Crater, learned to paddle board and enjoyed memorable culinary experiences. While solo travel was admittedly out of her comfort zone, it was something she thoroughly enjoyed. She asked: “Have you taken a solo vacation? If so, where did you go? How did it feel?” Good for you, Carly! It certainly sounds like an exciting trip. Travel is one of those things I think is best shared with someone else, though, be it a friend, sibling or loved one. I would love to go to Maui. Hawai’i is one of those places always on my bucket list that just keeps getting pushed down for one reason or another. I’d love to look into a Hawai’ian vacation for my husband’s and my 50th anniversary. I saw your GT Tested review of the Andaz, which may be a bit modern for our taste, though it does look great. The Montage Kapalua Bay also looks good.

I fell in love with train travel at age 19 when I toured Europe on a Eurail Pass. More recently, my husband and I rode the rails from Connecticut to Atlanta on Amtrak, booking a cozy sleeping compartment. When time allows, nothing compares to watching the passing landscape slowly change and being lulled to sleep by the rhythm of a train trundling through a quiet night. On my bucket list: an extended excursion on a luxury train such as the Belmond Royal Scotsman or the Royal Canadian Pacific. Do you enjoy traveling by train? Have you had a rail experience you would recommend to other travelers? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

the same people over and over, so you feel more comfortable introducing yourself. I actually got breakfast one morning with another couple I met the day before. Overall, the trip was quiet and relaxing, and I think everyone should take a solo trip at least once a year. You make your own schedule and choose your own activities. Trust me, it’s the way to go. DONNA ROBERTS, via email

RHONDA SHEFFIELD, Syracuse, N.Y.

CORRECTION: OCTOBER ISSUE

I love traveling solo. I did a Viking Rhine River cruise last year by myself, and it was wonderful. I think cruises lend themselves perfectly to solo travel. They’re safe, and there are always people around if you’re feeling social, and on a smaller cruise ship you see

We regret an error in our October issue’s One on One article with Qantas Airways’ Stephen Thompson. The article says the airline is capable of flying London–Perth in seven to eight hours. This has been corrected to read “Our new Boeing 787-9 is a game changer, allowing us to fly London to

Perth in 17 hours.” Thank you for bringing this to our attention.

THANKSGIVING TO SEE HIGHEST TRAVEL NUMBERS SINCE 2005 In the Nov. 20 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about AAA’s prediction that Thanksgiving 2017 would be busiest for travel since 2005. Did you travel? It’s funny; I read your article on Thanksgiving travel before heading to New York to visit family. They just recently moved there, and it was my first time flying into JFK on a holiday, and I assumed it would be busier but not too much worse than usual. To keep it short and spare you the details, I think I’ll Skype in to family dinner next year. RON ADLER, via email

Do yourself a favor and stay home. I swear, sometimes Thanksgiving traffic is worse than Christmas, especially if you’re anywhere near L.A. I don’t know what it is, but everyone in the world seems to be on the roads at Thanksgiving, which makes business trips around that time excruciating and expensive. JIM PERRIN, via email I drive I-95 in Connecticut, so I know traffic. What most people experience Thanksgiving is what we experience on a regular basis. My advice is always take the train if it’s an option. Even if that’s delayed, it’ll likely get resolved quicker than Connecticut road traffic. JAYSON VOGEL, via email

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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friends & family | SOUTHWEST IRELAND

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND TIME OUT:

Dingle Peninsula (top), and a colorful pub in Portmagee (bottom)

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE

PHOTOS: © PATRYK KOSMIDER | DREAMSTIME, © CHRISTIAN MUERINGER | DREAMSTIME

LODGING

CASTLEWOOD HOUSE This premier boutique property, a classic mix of antiques and art, overlooks Dingle Bay. It’s romantic, beautiful and a bargain. The Wood, Dingle, Co. Kerry $$ HAYFIELD MANOR HOTEL Set within a lovely, private, walled garden (where afternoon tea is served), this 5-star hotel and spa in a stylishly elegant country house lies within a short stroll of the city center.

Out of This World Explore the stunning landscapes and legends of Southwest Ireland. BY DONNA TABBERT LONG RUGGED AND REMOTE: Hiking Skellig Michael PHOTO: © UPTHEBANNER | DREAMSTIME

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A CRITICAL SCENE FROM Star Wars: The Force Awakens takes viewers to a mystical and magnificent mountaintop far, far away that rises from a sparkling, dark blue sea. It turns out the location wasn’t in a beautiful remote galaxy. It was on Skellig Michael, an island approximately eight miles off the coast of Southwest Ireland in County Kerry. In a video release by the Irish Film Board, the film’s director, J. J. Abrams, stated he wanted a place that was authentic and looked “out of this world.” County Kerry, along with County Cork, makes up this part of Ireland long renowned for its authentic, other-

worldly, scenery-rich terrain. Cliffs and crashing waves, lakes and craggy mountains intersperse with picturesque villages, ancient stone forts and old castles dotting the bright green countryside. Road signs feature Irish Gaelic names. The pace is slower in this rural region, and people are friendly. Whether you’re with a significant other or the entire family, it’s a stunning and memorable region of Ireland to explore for a few days after a business trip. Luke Skywalker fans can now catch a private boat from Portmagee, a small seaside village on the Iveragh Peninsula in Southwest Ireland, for the 40-minute trip to Skellig Michael. There are no ferries, only numerous small independent companies that provide transportation (weather permitting). Whether you’re a Star Wars aficionado or not, don’t miss the chance to visit this incredible UNESCO World Heritage site. Landing tours allow visitors to disembark on the island and climb the 640 steps to the top of the mountain and see the sixth-century monastic site where the movie scenes were filmed. Other boats simply make a circle tour around the island. Book well in advance in either case. The tiny port town lies just a few miles off Southwest

Ireland’s most famous tourist trail and one of Europe’s greatest scenic drives: the Ring of Kerry. This means even if you don’t make it to Skellig Michael, there is plenty of superb sightseeing to enjoy right on the peninsula. Numerous turnouts on the 112-mile loop provide amazing vistas and gorgeous backdrops for budding photographers or those taking selfies, from seascapes over the open Atlantic in the west to rugged overlooks of Dingle Bay in the north. Beautiful beaches include the Blue Flag Beach near the village of Glenbeigh, a popular destination for families on holiday. At the Derrynane National Park, a nature trail leads to another of Ireland’s outstanding beaches. A paradise for bird lovers, the park also features Derrynane House, the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, Ireland’s most famous politician, lawyer and statesman. Today visitors can tour the house, designated an Irish National Monument. In its sheltered courtyard, Ahamore Tearooms serves up delicious tarts and tea, crumbles and coffee. Besides beaches and overlooks, the Ring of Kerry proves a fantastic place for history buffs to explore three of Ireland’s prehistoric stone forts, built without mortar or cement. Located a few miles off the main road, Staigue Fort is among the biggest and best-preserved of these ancient sites. Remnants of Stone Age man and early Christian settle-

Perrott Avenue, College Road, Cork, Co. Cork $$$$ KILLARNEY PARK HOTEL Ultimate service and classic charm pervades this 5-star luxury hotel, located in sumptuous surroundings and steps away from beautiful Killarney National Park.

ments also exist on Southwest Ireland’s Dingle Peninsula. Follow the scenic Slea Head Drive to find the Gallarus Oratory, an early Christian church near the village of Ballyferriter. Built more than 1,000 years ago and shaped like an upturned boat, its drystone walls are still waterproof. While Slea Head Drive is less than 30 miles long, it proves slow going. Along with dramatic coastline and sandy beaches that compel you to pause, it includes hairpin switchbacks as well as an occasional narrow roadway where drivers may need to pull over for oncoming vehicles. There’s also the possibility of traffic jams when a flock of sheep occupies the road. The lively little fishing port of Dingle lies east of the peninsula’s tip and offers a good place to stop or spend

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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INFO TO GO

Most travelers fly into one of Ireland’s three international airports in Dublin (DUB), Cork (ORK) or Shannon (SNN). Because Southwest Ireland doesn’t have the same level of public transportation as these bigger cities, the best way to get around is to sign up for a group tour or rent a car and explore at your own pace.

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SOUTHERN IRELAND I enjoyed your article on Southern Ireland. It’s one of my favorite places to visit. Last time I was there, I stayed at Mount Juliet, and it was lovely. It’s a gorgeous Georgian-era property, [has] beautiful antique furniture, ivy-covered walls, gardens — the whole nine yards. The Lady Helen Restaurant is a Michelin-starred restaurant. I had venison that was to die for, and my husband had cod, equally amazing. Great wine list as well. You can’t go wrong with places like this in Ireland. The hospitality and service are out of this world, far better than a chain hotel property. Rosleague Manor House Hotel in Galway is also charming and not far from Connemara National Park. I’ve never stayed at Hayfield Manor, which Ms. Long mentions in her article, but I’ll add it to the list! ANITE LEMELLE, via email

THE CHANGING FACE OF LUXURY TRAVEL In the Oct. 31 issue of eFlyer USA, we highlighted the ways in which luxury travel is changing. Today’s luxury traveler spends more on experiences than anything else. Do you agree? These findings don’t surprise me. There’s nice, and then there’s unnecessary. I want good service, good food, good WiFi and a comfortable bed when I travel, but nothing over the top. I’d rather shell out more for a great show or tour if I’m somewhere new than extravagant things I don’t need. It’s been said a million times, but memories last, things don’t. CHRIS AULT, via email

KOREAN AIR LOUNGE I just came across your magazine for the first time in the Korean Air lounge at JFK on a recent trip. I wanted to write in to tell you how much I enjoyed flipping through — beautiful images and a great mix of articles. Really loved

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ISLANDS

East Avenue, Town Centre, Killarney, Co. Kerry $$$$$

NOVEMBER 2017

kicking back | COOK

JANUARY 2018

the Technology column, and the interviews with staff added a great personal touch, considering it was the first time I’ve read the magazine. I feel I got to know the faces behind the words! It also inspired me to plan a trip to Southern Ireland — my thanks to Donna Long. ANDREAS TRAN, via email

STOPOVER PROGRAMS I’ve seen several articles lately about stopover programs, most recently TAP Air Portugal’s. I also know Iceland offers one, which would make for an interesting stop. I love this concept, and I feel like it’s relatively new. I know at some airports you’re able to leave, but the option of staying somewhere for a couple of nights (by choice) is excellent. My husband and I are considering a trip to Croatia in June, and it’s a long flight, so this might be the perfect opportunity to see a new city and break our journey up a bit. SUSAN LAFARGE, via email

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news The Latest in Airport Security Regulations Beginning last November, new airport security measures went into effect to not only increase the quality of passenger safety but also to streamline security processes to make the passenger screening experience more efficient. New measures include brief interviews with passengers either at the check-in counter or at the boarding gate. Although this may delay these two processes for passengers, airport administrators deem it necessary to more thoroughly vet travelers for safety purposes. Commissioned by the

United States Transportation Security Administration, these new efforts in traveler security require passengers to arrive at the airport even earlier than before, as the interviews may slow down check-in and boarding processes. In addition to this new measure, airlines are free to implement their own regulations. For example, Cathay Pacific removed online check-in and bag-drop capabilities from its services for all passengers flying directly to the United States. The Asian airline advises travelers to arrive at the airport up to three hours early to accommodate for the new measures.

AMERICAN EXPRESS OPENS NINTH CENTURION LOUNGE American Express’ latest installment of its airport-based Centurion Lounge opened its doors in Philadelphia International Airport. The 6,300-square-foot lounge is located in Terminal A West and offers guests a globally inspired culinary and cocktail experience. Four-time James Beard Award winner and local favorite chef Michael Solomonov runs the kitchen, dishing out Bulgarian kebabs and Israeli plates like challah French toast. At the complimentary bar, local mixologist Jim Meehan will serve Alla Modeas (an Italian take on the Cosmopolitan) and the Liberty Bell Ringer, with apricot brandy and gin. For something a bit softer, select a vintage from a list curated by wine expert Anthony Giglio. This new Centurion Lounge location is accessible to holders of the American Express Platinum Card and Centurion members, plus two guests.

PHOTOS: © AMERICAN EXPRESS, © SINGAPORE AIRLINES

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Singapore Airlines’ New Business Suites As the Gulf airlines continue to roll out expansive business-class suites, Singapore Airlines meets the demand and competition with its own version of the impressive onboard seating options. Beginning in December, the airline outfitted some of its new Airbus A380 models with new suite seats in business class, with full implementation to be complete by 2020. The suites feature a leather recliner (21 inches wide) plus a fully reclining single bed (27 inches wide), with the option to combine beds with another suite to form one double bed. The suites measure approximately 60 percent larger than the previous compartments offered by Singapore Airlines. Other amenities include sliding doors with adjustable blinds, passenger-controlled lighting, a 32-inch, high-definition TV monitor and private storage compartments for valuables. Only six suites will be available in each cabin, and they will be located on the upper floor of the aircraft. singaporeair.com

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news

Incheon Debuts Impressive Terminal

This month South Korea’s Incheon International Airport is set to debut Terminal T2 in conjunction with the Jan. 30 opening of the Olympic Village. Since the region was announced as host for this year’s Winter Olympic Games, Incheon has prepared for the influx of athletes, coaches and fans who will pour through the airport at the end of the month. Terminal T2 will be home to four major SkyTeam airlines: Korean Air, Delta Air Lines, Air France and KLM. Airport officials estimate nearly 20 percent of the Games’s participants and attendees will use the new terminal, with an expected annual capacity of 18 million travelers. Improved technology capabilities will ameliorate the check-in and security processes at Terminal 2, with an anticipated 10-minute decrease in overall wait time from check-in to boarding. Incheon will continue to grow the new terminal through 2023, with the goal of accommodating up to 46 million travelers each year. airport.kr

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Fly New York to Berlin with Lufthansa

German carrier Lufthansa introduced new non-stop flights from New York (JFK) to Berlin (TXL) beginning November 2017. The debut of this flight marked the first

Thanks to ride-hailing apps like Uber and Lyft, travelers can find easier and cheaper ways to navigate new cities with their smartphones. Recent findings from Certify show business travelers tend to prefer Lyft to Uber when it comes to booking on-demand car service for meetings and other events. Business expense solution company Certify released its SpendSmart report showing an 8 percent increase in Lyft use among business travelers (from 3 percent in the second quarter of 2017 to 11 percent in the third quarter). The same report showed a decrease of 1 percent in Uber hires, car rentals and traditional taxi services. When analyzing specific locations, Lyft was more widely used by business travelers in San Francisco, Boston and Dallas, with increases in use of 9 percent, 5 percent and 5 percent, respectively.

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long-haul service between the two cities since 2001 and brings the total number of routes between the Big Apple and the nation of Germany to four, joining non-stop routes to Munich (MUC), Frankfurt (FRA) and Düsseldorf (DUS). The route will be available five times per week from New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport via an Airbus A330-300. By summer 2018 the flights will employ Eurowings carriers, expanding the service to Berlin’s Tegel Airport.

Regent Adds Routes to Cuba

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Despite Americans’ questionable future as tourists in Cuba, Regent Seven Seas Cruises plans to debut six new itineraries to the Caribbean nation in time for its 2018–2019 season. The new routes will depart from Miami beginning in October and will employ the Seven Seas Mariner, Voyager and Navigator vessels. The ships will stop in Havana’s harbor and allow passengers to take part in free on-shore excursions. Select ships will feature a re-boarding time of midnight to ensure visitors can get the most out of their time in Havana.

PHOTOS: © INCHEON INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, © TYLER O'NEILL | DREAMSTIME, © THOMAS LUKASSEK | DREAMSTIME

Business Travelers Prefer Lyft

deals & rewards

Marriott’s New More Program

Uber Expands Credit Card Perks

Holders of the American Express Platinum Card will soon have access to perks from ridehailing app Uber as the credit card company and Uber forged a partnership to provide a new set of benefits to card members. Platinum Card members who use their card to pay for Uber rides will earn double points with each ride and receive $15 per month to use with Uber. In addition to this partnership, Uber plans to release its own no-fee Visa credit card to reward loyal riders. Holders of the Uber credit card will receive 4 percent cash back for dining expenses, 3 percent back on hotel and airfare purchases and 2 percent back on Uber rides and online shopping. Uber card members also will enjoy a $50 credit toward a Spotify subscription as well as mobile phone insurance. uber.com

PHOTOS: © PETER KSINAN | DREAMSTIME, © UNITED AIRLINES, © MARRIOTT

Changes to United MileagePlus

As of November 2017 United Airlines made some subtle changes to its MileagePlus loyalty program, including the introduction of a new tier: Everyday Awards. This level will focus on a more price-based rewards model rather than pricing flights based on designated reward levels. United’s Saver Awards level has also seen some changes in pricing, with slight increases in the points required to obtain international and businessclass tickets and decreases in the points needed for economy-class seats. united.com

In an effort to provide loyalty members more ways to earn and redeem points, Marriott launched a new service called More. The browser toolbar extension and mobile app will let members upload points into an online account and then dip into that account to pay for purchases they make online, or opt to earn points through purchases. A handful of companies signed on to take part in the new feature, including (but not limited to) Apple, Amazon and Best Buy, and purchasing and redeeming terms vary based on each partner’s agreement with Marriott Rewards. more.marriottrewards.com

Partnerships You May Not Know About

As new travel-related services emerge to make it easier for travelers to book, save and plan, big-name loyalty programs sometimes reach out to forge partnerships with these smaller companies. One such example is the collaboration between Delta’s SkyMiles program and Airbnb, through which Delta members can earn one mile for each dollar spent on an accommodation reservation. Delta also has a partnership with the ridehailing app Lyft wherein SkyMiles members earn one mile per dollar spent on Lyft rides. JetBlue TrueBlue members can earn 30 points each time they use Lyft to transfer to the airport. The Starwood Preferred Guest program has a similar arrangement with Uber: Riders earn one Starpoint per $2 spent on an Uber ride. delta.com jetblue.com starwoodhotels.com/preferredguest

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THE HOLLYWOOD ROOSEVELT Reviewed by William Papa

Guest Quarters: The Tower building has 12 floors, each showcasing large black-and-white pictures of old Hollywood on the walls in the hallways. My room, a Superior Tower room, featured a queen-sized canopy bed; hardwood floors; a desk; a large, flat-screen TV; and plenty of comfortable couches and chairs in the 300-square-foot area. I noticed a handwritten note on the desk from guest relations welcoming me, signed by Nicole, Bryce and Juliana — a nice touch. The hardwood floors, leather

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furniture and simple design reminded me of a New York City-style loft. My windows overlooked Hollywood Boulevard, with the sidewalks bearing the Walk of Fame stars. The office building next to the hotel slightly obscured the iconic Hollywood sign, but Grauman’s Chinese Theatre was in clear sight. I did not take advantage of the fully stocked minibar but thoroughly enjoyed the Davines bathroom amenities. The water closet was separate from the shower, which had a great rain shower option.

Services/Amenities: I spent a few hours on the day of check-in at the Tropicana Café pool area. The menu offered American fare with burgers, fries, salads and sandwiches and a good selection of brunch cocktails. A cold beer paired nicely with my burger for a lunch by the pool. Behind some palm trees near the pool sat the Garden, a smaller outdoor Southern California beer garden. These were two of the four restaurants in the hotel. I also tried 25 Degrees for breakfast each morning, which filled me up with eggs, bacon, toast and delicious hash browns. Public Kitchen & Bar, the Roosevelt’s classic American brasserie created by Tim Goodell, serves a fantastic charred Spanish octopus. The bar options impressed me; my favorite was the Spare Room, referring to the “spares” its patrons left on the bar’s two-lane bowling alley. Other amenities include a 24-hour gym and room service, which I did not get the chance to experience.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The hotel and the multimilliondollar mural on the bottom of the Tropicana pool both are designated Historic-Cultural Monuments by L.A.’s Cultural Heritage Commission. ◆ There is so much to do inside the hotel with its restaurant and bar options, you may forget you are in the heart of Hollywood until you step outside on the Walk of Fame. ◆ Marilyn Monroe lived in the hotel for two years early in her career. Rumor has it her ghost still haunts the hotel! THE HOLLYWOOD ROOSEVELT 7000 Hollywood Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90028 tel 323 856 1970 thehollywoodroosevelt.com

PHOTOS: © THE HOLLYWOOD ROOSEVELT

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived mid-afternoon on a Sunday after my taxi fought the notorious Los Angeles traffic from LAX. The guest arrival entrance is around back, and staff was very attentive to me and the other arriving guests. While waiting to be checked in, I admired the tile fountain in the arrival desk area, which created a calming effect. I wandered down a hall, following the sound of upbeat music, which led me to the Tropicana Café pool area. Since it was a weekend and the weather was favorable, the area was filled with hotel guests and pool guests alike — all having drinks, laughs and fun. It seems the Tropicana Café pool is used for private parties and as a place to relax on the weekend for L.A. locals. After quickly checking in and receiving a complimentary bottle of water, I went up to my room in the Tower section. I wanted to change into my bathing suit and grab a bite to eat back at the pool lounge.

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OPERA HOTEL KYIV Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The on-site Teatro Restaurant offers an abundant breakfast buffet each morning alongside an equally abundant madeto-order egg menu. It was the perfect way to fuel up each morning for a day of sightseeing.

PHOTOS: © OPERA HOTEL KYIV

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at Opera Hotel Kyiv in the early evening, looking forward to a swift check-in, as I needed to change for dinner and didn’t want to rush. Fresh from my flight to Kyiv from New York, I felt a bit sluggish. Luckily, the 5-star property delivered, and within minutes I was on my way to my generously sized guestroom, with just enough time to rest a bit before departing again. Guest Quarters: Several different but connected buildings make up the hotel. My fourth-floor guestroom was on a round floor, almost on the opposite side of the circle from the elevators, so the route to my room was a bit circuitous. The door opened into the bedroom, with a nightstand and the bed to the immediate left. A nightstand flanked the bed on the other side as well; I appreciated the nearby outlets. Across from the bed sat a long desk and TV stand with an armchair next to it. A separate wardrobe sat just outside of the bathroom, convenient for easy access between the bathroom and my luggage as I was getting ready. Over the course of my three-night stay I made myself at home. The bathroom was large, but with a pedestal sink,

◆ Opera Hotel Kyiv, one of the city’s 5-star hotels, is conveniently located in the heart of Kyiv near the business, cultural and historical districts; as you enter, the light-filled, beautiful lobby greets you.

I was left wishing for more counter space. A towel warmer and heated floor, on the other hand, were appreciated touches. Warning: Check the showerhead before turning on the shower; the handheld unit wasn’t fully secured and it flipped around when I turned it on, nearly flooding my bathroom. All guestrooms boast complimentary, high-speed WiFi; stocked minibars; flat-screen TVs; and digital safes.

Services/Amenities: Teatro Restaurant offers all-day dining, 6:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Mediterranean ingredients shine in the menu’s international dishes, all complemented by a wine collection curated from around the globe. Guests can also relax at the Lobby Lounge enjoying coffees, teas and pastries under the conservatory-style glass ceiling of the lobby. Meeting and event facilities are available: The Symphony and Maestro halls can accommodate up to 250 people, while the Business Lounge is the perfect spot for meetings, presentations or cocktail parties and private dinners. Diva Spa at Opera Hotel is open daily 9 a.m.–9 p.m. and offers massages, hair services and cosmetology.

◆ My guestroom was impressively spacious, offering room to relax, spread out, do work, unpack, charge all electronics and more. OPERA HOTEL KYIV 53, B. Khmelnitskogo St. Kyiv, 01054, Ukraine tel 38 044 581 70 70 opera-hotel.com

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THE RITZ-CARLTON, DALLAS Reviewed by Francis X Gallagher

Guest Quarters: I stayed in room 325, down the hallway a bit and tucked into a corner of the building, affording a corner office-type layout for the suite. Once I entered the door, a long hallway and a turn to the right brought me into the suite. To the left, the large bathroom included twin sinks with black marble tops. A separate tub sat by the window, but there was no view to speak of, as it faced a flat roof. The bathroom also had a large,

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comfortable, separate shower with a generous rain showerhead and a shaving mirror. Bathroom amenities included Asprey shampoos, conditioners and lotions. Opposite the bathroom, a hall table acted as the minibar and held a Nespresso coffee station. The room was quite large with a king-sized bed and a desk. Two chairs sat on either side of the desk, and a more comfortable overstuffed chair occupied the far corner near the windows. The room was on the outside corner, allowing for a lot of natural light. A credenza on the far side of the non-windowed wall held a flat-screen TV and entertainment system.

Services/Amenities: The cleaning service always made sure I had plenty of bottled water and respected the do not disturb sign when I was working in the room — which I really value. Although we did not have the opportunity to try Fearing’s, I hear it is one of the best steakhouses in Dallas. We did have some libations at Rattlesnake (a fantastic name), part of Fearing’s. I asked some colleagues to meet me at Rattlesnake, and the name is so hidden, they had to ask where it was. Michael took good care of us, serving pre- and post-dinner wine selections.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Make Rattlesnake’s name more prominent! Great place to meet. ◆ Great location and comfortable guestrooms, a Dallas tradition. THE RITZ-CARLTON, DALLAS 2121 McKinney Ave. Dallas, TX 75201 tel 214 922 0200 ritzcarlton.com

PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at DFW late in the afternoon and took an Uber to the property. My colleague was staying nearby and had rented a car for our meeting in the Big D. I chatted with my Uber driver, originally from Houston, so we had a lot of subject matter to cover based on the recent storms. The Ritz-Carlton is located alongside Dallas’ historic McKinney Avenue, which has seen a great deal of growth and resurgence in recent years. When I was dropped off, the friendly front door staff escorted me into the registration area. Check-in was swift, and I was told I had a nice upgrade to a suite. This often happens to me when I have fewer than 12 hours to stay in a property. The lobby is grand and in the Ritz-Carlton style; off the lobby are the popular Rattlesnake Bar and Fearing’s Restaurant.

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SAUDI ARABIAN AIRLINES | FIRST SUITE

New York (JFK)–Riyadh (RUH)–Dubai (DXB)

Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher On the Ground: Check-in at JFK was swift and professional; as I had no luggage to check, I was quickly on my way to security. The lines at Terminal 1 can get quite congested, and this was one of those days. Once through security, I changed over some cash and went to the Korean Air lounge, which Saudia uses for its passengers. The lounge is separated into two sections: business-class passengers on the right and first-class passengers on the left. I found the offerings a little on the light side, but the selection of sandwiches was quite delicious. It served only bourbon and no Scotch, which I found a little odd, but the wine choices were top-notch. In no time we were walking to the gate at the end of the terminal, and a gentleman who seemed familiar to me from my years of travel escorted us onto the aircraft in VIP style. My colleague was over the moon with the two separate entrances on the Boeing 777, preventing first- and business-class passengers from getting caught up in the rush of economy-class passengers.

PHOTOS: © SAUDI ARABIAN AIRLINES, © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Pre-Flight: I was taken to the seat and was looking forward to my long flight for which I had mapped out a plan: work and enjoy the first-class service for about 30 percent of the time and then sleep during the remaining journey. Flight attendants distributed newspapers and magazines (though I brought a satchel of magazines to catch up on) and juices together with fine amenity kits complete with Salvatore Ferragamo-branded lotions, lip balms and other items. Everything required was in that tasteful kit. On the return flight, the kits were Porsche Design, a nice change. Crewmembers also distributed pajamas and blankets with duvets along with the in-flight menu, which offered a nice selection of meals. They served Arabian coffee with the tastiest dates fresh from the Middle East. I hooked up the power for my computer and phone and settled in to work and enjoy the entertainment system and meal service. Takeoff went like clockwork, and we were taxiing down the runway and airborne to Saudi Arabia. In-Flight: Once we were airborne, the friendly flight attendants began their first-class meal service, including a mixture of Arabian and European favorites. Whenever I fly first class, I choose the caviar to start — this sets first-class service apart, and Saudia was no disappointment. Passengers can choose from various soups and three entrées which included lamb shank, lobster Thermidor and chicken biryani. When in Rome, do as the Romans do, so I went directly for the lamb, tender and generous — I found it impossible to finish. The meal closed with a selection of fresh fruit (which I chose), assorted desserts and ice cream. (I admit I had some ice cream, too.) I opened my laptop and powered through a great many emails. These were all teed up to send when I

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

arrived in Riyadh. Saudia offers WiFi, but as it was late, I figured holding them was the best option. While working I enjoyed some tea and watched a couple of movies. The screen is 23 inches wide and displays in HD, with many channels and programs to choose from. Ready to sleep, I called the flight attendant to transform my first-class suite into my first-class bed. She reclined the seat fully flat, covered the seat with a mattress cover and laid out the duvet and pillows. I was in a happy place and went right to bed. The sliding doors shut; I did not wake until breakfast was served. Truly a restful flight, which I needed for our full week in the Middle East. Connections were a breeze at Riyadh, where the lounge is spacious and comfortable. We were treated like VIPs during transfer, a benefit of the first-class service. Our departure to Dubai was on the same aircraft a few hours later, and in Dubai we were met by Bander A. Alfowzan, Saudia’s manager of operations – U.A.E. and Oman, based at Dubai Airport. Bander continued our first-class service and walked us through security to our waiting car.

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◆ The key to the comfort and sleepability is the 100 percent cotton mattress pad, which allows the seat to breathe and keeps the bedding from getting too hot as you sleep. ◆ I left my computer charger on the Riyadh– Dubai flight. Bander received a call and the charger was brought to me. We laughed, and I said this was a test of the fine Saudia service! ◆ Best in-flight dates and Arabian coffee, hands down! SAUDI ARABIAN AIRLINES saudia.com

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KEMPINSKI MALL OF THE EMIRATES Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

Guest Quarters: I stayed in a comfortable superior suite with a small hallway leading to a large living room. The opposing wall held a flat-screen TV and also had sliding doors to the bedroom. A seating area included a sofa and coffee table with two comfortable chairs, and a nice amenity made of chocolate wishing me a happy birthday sat on the table. Next to the window a desk against the wall offered ample workspace and, more importantly, a series of electrical outlets facing its front. A Nespresso machine and a fine minibar added a nice touch along with free WiFi, an iPad, a safe and plenty of bottled water. The bedroom boasted a comfortable king-sized bed and

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another large, flat-screen TV where I found myself watching the evening news. The bed was flanked by nightstands with a master lighting system at your fingertips when it was time to turn in for the evening. A spectacular closet system with glassfront drawers was a useful addition to the changing area. From the bedroom, a door led to a massive bathroom with a large shower and a separate marble-lined bathtub. Double sinks complemented the utility of the room, and a door leading to a powder room with its own little sink could be accessed from both sides. Kempinski-branded emery boards, shower caps and toothbrushes were of such good quality I replaced mine and took one as a backup. I found the Kempinski Bergamot with Organic Aloe Vera shampoo of a high quality as well.

Services/Amenities: We frequently had end-of-the-day cocktails at Noir, a hot spot late evenings on the weekend. The team at the Kempinski uses all sorts of creative options to attract more guests to this fine lounge, including a restart of its famous brunch. If you like to smoke a cigar, there are smoking areas and a decent selection of Cuban brands. Salero Tapas & Bodega is a Spanish restaurant run by Marco Torres, who specializes in the finest seafood paella. We were honored he made ours personally while we enjoyed our sangria at the bar. Offering both contemporary and Arabic cuisine, Olea focuses on the six Levantine nations: Syria, Palestine, Jordan, Southern Turkey, Lebanon and Cyprus. Olea’s wonderful daily breakfast buffet became a habit while we stayed at the Kempinski.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ A whole other review could cover the chalet experience; these multilevel townhomes are the ultimate. ◆ I enjoyed the team at Noir, who needed little convincing to pour a double the way they do in New York City! ◆ Super staff, and the location is effective if you are traveling all around Dubai. KEMPINSKI HOTEL MALL OF THE EMIRATES Sheikh Zayed Road Dubai, United Arab Emirates tel 971 4 341 0000 kempinski.com

PHOTOS: © KEMPINSKI HOTEL MALL OF THE EMIRATES, © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Arrival/Check-In: After a long journey flying to Dubai from New York via Saudi Arabia, we were pleased to arrive at the Kempinski property, directly connected to the Mall of the Emirates with its Ski Dubai facility. In fact, some of the chalets offer direct views of this indoor alpine experience. The grand lobby boasts a high, multistory ceiling and lovely artwork. It seems the hotel researched both of us, and the staff knew us on sight from our social media pictures. The front desk contacts were friendly and informative, and during my stay I found them invaluable as they took great care with some letters and cards I was posting to the United States. Our luggage was taken, and up we went to settle in to our rooms. I was in room 640, located just far enough from the elevators, and my colleague was just down the hall.

2018 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

AIRLINE BEST Overall Best Airline in the World____________________________________________ Airline Alliance___________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _____________________________________________________________ Airline Website __________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Trans-Pacific_______________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class_______________________________________________________ International First Class________________________________________________ Domestic First Class__________________________________________________ Onboard Service _____________________________________________________ Flight Attendants_____________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms _____________________________________________ Airline Cuisine________________________________________________________ Security_____________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design____________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _______________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch___________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program____________________________________ Elite-Level Program___________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________ Award Redemption___________________________________________________ Customer Service ____________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa_______________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand_____________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________ China_______________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe_______________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ Mexico______________________________________________________________ The Middle East _____________________________________________________ North America________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China)___________________________________________ The South Pacific_____________________________________________________ To South America and Central America______________________________________ To Japan_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline______________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline_______________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World____________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents__________________________________________________ Airport Dining____________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping _________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_______________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ The Middle East______________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia_________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ The Middle East______________________________________________________ North America________________________________________________________ South America_______________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST

International Hotel Chain_________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain___________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel__________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel ____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Club Floor________________________________________________________ Hotel Website__________________________________________________________ New Luxury Hotel in Asia _______________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World_____________________________ Elite-Level Program_________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion___________________________________________________ Award Redemption_________________________________________________ Customer Service___________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________ South Korea________________________________________________________ The Middle East____________________________________________________ The United States __________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________ Latin America______________________________________________________ Mexico____________________________________________________________ The Middle East____________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program ______________________________________________ Rental Car Company____________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_____________________________________________________ MICE City _____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service___________________________________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand__________________________________________ Luggage Brand_________________________________________________________ Ride Share_____________________________________________________________ Hotel App______________________________________________________________ Airline App_____________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card_________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card _________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events __________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program____________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card______________________________________ Rental Car Affinity Card__________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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one on one | CEO SERIES

KIM DAY CEO, Denver International Airport ABOUT YOUR BRAND Denver International Airport was on track for a record-breaking year in 2017 in terms of passenger traffic. What can travelers expect from a trip through the airport? We strive for the highest quality in everything we do. DEN offers great WiFi access and a great variety of things to do. We have diverse shops and restaurants in a mix of local and national brands plus services like dog therapy programs, pet relief rooms in all the concourses and nursing mothers’ rooms. The Plaza offers a rock climbing wall, zip lining and miniature golf.

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YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? We have seen a lot of changes in passenger expectations. DEN aims to use technology and knowledge about our customers to make a better passenger experience and enhance security. In the past few years we installed the fastest WiFi available, redesigned our website and are looking at ways to use cellphones to push messages. Best career advice you’ve received: Take any opportunity that comes your way and work very hard at it. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Don’t limit yourself, experience different things, move yourself around and build as many talents as you can. Be well-rounded.

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AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: I took a delegation to Reykjavík on an inaugural Icelandair flight. We then flew to a little town on the northern side of the island and took a boat to a remote island where the group feasted on mussels and drank wine. Great bonding experience. One travel tip you cannot live without: Take a bath before bed. Best advice for business travelers: Planning, planning, planning! Anticipate to reduce stress.

What can’t-miss activities should passengers look for at DEN? Check out anything that’s going on at the Plaza. We will have our own Oktoberfest, a skating rink and a solar dog house competition — 16 local architects are designing and building houses with solar panels that will then be sold to local shelters. Tell our readers about the art experience at Denver International Airport. DEN has an unbelievable art program, with 40 permanent pieces people can view. A recent “Colorado Music” exhibit focused on the sights and sounds of important Colorado-rooted musicians. There are, however, some conspiracy theories revolving around the art at our airport!

PHOTO: © DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Name: Kim Day Title: CEO Company, city: Denver International Airport; Denver, Colo. Number of employees: 1,200 city employees who actually work for the airport, plus 400 Denver Police and Fire first responders Recent project: We opened a 519-room Westin hotel at a commuter rail station, incredibly significant to the airport and far exceeding revenue projections. The rail station makes DEN physically closer to downtown. Ridership is up and trains run frequently. First job: Working for a large architectural firm after earning a degree in architecture Little-known fact about you: I played alto saxophone in high school and college marching bands.

Tell our readers about the airport’s plans for expansion and renovation. Our next big project, the Great Hall Project, will break ground in summer 2018 and will revitalize the entire main terminal, improving the security process and offering pre-security and postsecurity areas both for domestic and international passengers. It is slated to be completed in 2021.

OPENING

DECEMBER 8, 2017 RIVIERA MAYA, MEXICO

Live

T H E L U X U R Y VAC AT I O N D R E A M Introducing The Sian Ka’an at Grand Tulum, an all-inclusive adults-only escape from the everyday. Off the beaten path and close to everything guests want including a champagne lounge and personal butler service. Select an oceanview room with whirlpool or a suite with a terrace and plunge pool.

For reservations call your travel professional or 1 (800) 44-OASIS

www.OasisLovesU.com

Oasis Hotels & Resorts is exclusively represented in North America by TravAmerica, Inc.

one on one

DIEGO GARCIA Commercial Director, Aerolineas Argentinas my first flight. It was a school trip to Patagonia. One travel tip you cannot live without: I like to eat, so I recommend downloading the OpenTable app. You can spend time looking for good restaurants and earn rewards. Best advice for business travelers: Use your free time to enjoy the city you are visiting on your business trip. ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from an Aerolineas Argentinas flight? We live up to a high expectation to deliver an authentic Argentine experience and bring the culture, service and cuisine of the country on board. You can start to know about the country the minute you step onto our aircraft.

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YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Since the quantity of passengers in Argentina is less than in other places, we have a huge opportunity to double the market and grow with it. We want to invest in Argentina, invest in the airport, bring a domestic focus and increase by 1 million passengers by 2020. Best career advice you’ve received: I followed the example set by my father; we were

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lower middle class and my father worked two jobs to ensure the education of his four sons. He taught us to be hardworking, honest and intelligent. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Every time you travel, talk to the person next to you. You never know when a business opportunity will come up. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: When I was 12 years old, I took

What are your personal recommendations for travelers to Argentina? Argentina is more than just Buenos kAires; plan to spend at least two to three weeks exploring the country. To the north, Iguazú Falls; to the south, more than 300 glaciers; there’s fly-fishing in Patagonia and seven ski resorts. Everywhere you go in Argentina, it’s different. Enjoy the great food and vinotourism. Give yourself the time to visit.

PHOTO: ©AEROLINEAS ARGENTINAS

Name: Diego Garcia Title: Commercial director Company, city: Aerolineas Argentinas; Buenos Aires, Argentina Number of employees: 12,300 Recent project: Launching our third gateway in Argentina: Córdoba First job: I was a travel agent; I’ve been in this industry for 28 years in a variety of different capacities. Little-known fact about you: I was a professional soccer player when I was young; I played fullback.

Aerolineas Argentinas recently reported its third-best month in its history. Tell our readers about what they can look forward to from the airline in 2018. In the last 20 months we launched 31 new routes. We offer four corridors of flights: North, South, Atlantic and the Petroleum corridor. We want to consolidate the routes and grow our domestic traffic. For U.S. travelers, we maintain 14 flights from Miami (MIA) and New York (JFK) to Buenos Aires (EZE). Our codeshare with Delta Air Lines ensures our continued visibility throughout the country.

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technology

NEW BEGINNINGS Update your devices and get 2018 off to the best possible start. BY JACK GUY

IPHONE X Apple fans have been waiting for a revolutionary new smartphone after a number of incremental upgrades, and the iPhone X will bring a raft of new features to the table. With a full-screen display, wireless charging and a reinforced glass design, the iPhone X looks set to be subject to high demand in 2018. Other upgrades include Super Retina resolution and face-scanning technology known as Face ID. The ongoing battle between Apple and Android smartphone makers is far from over, but the iPhone X puts down a marker. From $999. apple.com

GOPRO HERO6 BLACK GoPro continues to upgrade its range of action cameras, and the Hero6 Black brings 4K video at 60 frames per second. The new flagship model will go into battle with the Yi 4K+, billed as a GoPro killer. To stave off the challenge, GoPro doubled the 4K frame rate from the Hero5 and introduced a new processor that will improve dynamic range and stabilization. With impressive specs and the promise of an improved user experience, the Hero6 Black proves a significant upgrade. $499.99. gopro.com

GOOGLE PIXEL BUDS Wireless headphones are steadily becoming the new normal, and Pixel Buds represent Google’s first foray into the market. A lack of wires may no longer be big news, but Pixel Buds stand out thanks to real-time translations using Google Translate. Other companies offer dedicated translation earpieces, but integration into a pair of mass-market earphones shows the rapid development of the technology. Pixel Buds are designed to work with the Google Pixel 2 and Pixel XL 2 smartphones, and they look like they could be a real hit. $159.99. google.com

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PHOTOS: © HP, © APPLE, © GOPRO, © GOOGLE

HP SPECTRE 13 LAPTOP Business travelers need to stay connected, but that doesn’t have to mean lugging around a backbreaking bag of devices. The HP Spectre 13 is just 0.41 inches thick, and HP claims it is the thinnest touchscreen laptop in the world. If you’re worried about prioritizing design over performance, the eighthgeneration Intel processors and 4K screen prove this is a serious piece of kit. For PC fans who want a fast, light laptop that can handle whatever they throw at it, the Spectre 13 offers a great option. $1,299.99. hp.com

wine & spirits

GENUINE ORIGINAL Alto Adige Pinot Grigio expresses the true nature of the grape.

PHOTOS: © ALTO ADIGE WINES

as ew g i d ria oA Alt ust . A 19 t of par ntil 19 u

BY EUNICE FRIED

FAME CAN BE FICKLE. And the more famous something becomes, the more likely its true nature is lost. Take Pinot Grigio, for example. Born in France centuries ago as the brownish pink-skinned Pinot Gris grape, it crossed the border into Italy. There renamed Pinot Grigio, by the turn of this century it had become the most popular white wine in that country and, soon, Italy’s most popular imported white wine in the United States.

Through the years, however, as more Italian wine drinkers discovered Pinot Grigio’s charms and its popularity grew, many more wineries began to plant the grape and make huge quantities of the wine. Soon the market was flooded with simple, light-style Pinot Grigio, much of it devoid of the characteristics and beauty of the original. Still, within this glut of inexpensive Pinot Grigio, a few wine regions in Italy — notably mountainous northeastern Alto Adige, where Pinot Grigio grows well — have allowed the grape to express its true nature. Alto Adige Pinot Grigio emphasizes the wine’s finest points as few other Italian versions do. Here are three excellent examples of Alto Adige Pinot Grigio. Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio 2016 ($15) is a crisp, rich wine with an aroma reminiscent of a garden of flowers in bloom. Add the flavors of citrus fruits and fine balance, and it makes an excellent buy. Elena Walch Pinot Grigio Vigna Castel Ringberg 2015 ($25) offers another elegant example of the grape. With a clear aroma of peach, vibrant acidity and a balanced complexity, it stands out as a high-quality Pinot Grigio. Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2015 ($26) is aged on the lees in large oak casks for at least a half year, adding to its distinctive character. Richer than many, with a clear vanilla flavor and an especially long finish, Unterebner presents a bright acidity and intricate composition. A wine of finesse. When to enjoy Alto Adige Pinot Grigio? Pour it as the perfect aperitif. Serve it with before-dinner dips; with poultry, shellfish and other fish dishes; and with white and light meat dishes. Alto Adige Pinot Grigio rises far above ordinary.

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EXPERIENCE AWARD-WINNING COMFORT AND WINES

wealth

MAXIMIZE YOUR BENEFITS Get the facts about Social Security before you retire.

Can I count on Social Security income to be there when I retire? It is becoming commonplace to hear Social Security is bankrupt and will be gone in a few years. The truth is that even without any changes, trustees project redemption of the Social Security trust fund assets will be sufficient to allow for full payment of scheduled benefits until at least 2033. After that, 79 percent of benefits could be funded until almost 2090 without any change to the current system. Without getting into too many figures and statistics, the key takeaway is yes, you can count on Social Security income even if you are as young as 30 today.

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Are there claiming strategies for married couples? Even if your spouse never worked outside your home or in a job covered by Social Security, he or she may be eligible for spousal benefits based on your Social Security earnings record. It is not automatic; you must apply for benefits. There are many considerations when deciding what time is best for you to begin taking Social Security benefits. The first step is to start planning now. With decisions as monumental as retirement, it is essential to consult a professional advisor who can provide guidance in achieving your financial goals.

PHOTO: © GUNNAR3000 | DREAMSTIME

PLANNING FOR AND SUBSEQUENTLY transitioning into retirement is cumbersome enough without trying to figure out the Social Security riddle. Minimize the stress — and maximize the benefits — by separating facts from myths and knowing when to take Social Security.

So if I can count on it, when should I take it? Your Social Security retirement benefit is based on your average earnings over your working career. Your age at the time you start receiving Social Security retirement benefits also affects your benefit amount. If you were born 1943–1954, your full retirement age is 66. Full retirement age increases in two-month increments thereafter, until it reaches age 67 for anyone born in 1960 or later. But you don’t have to wait until full retirement age to begin receiving benefits. No matter what your full retirement age, you can begin receiving early retirement benefits at age 62. However, your benefit could be as low as 30 percent less permanently if you take it early. You can also choose to delay receiving retirement benefits past full retirement age. If you delay retirement, the Social Security benefit you eventually receive could be as much as 32 percent higher. That’s because you’ll receive a delayed retirement credit for each month, which equates to approximately 8 percent per year you delay receiving retirement benefits, up to age 70. For most people it comes down to three factors: existing savings, current income and health. If you already have sufficient savings, a high level of current income or a family history of long life expectancy, it may be best to wait and let that check amount grow. In fact, it is generally accepted if you live beyond age 80, delaying benefits until 70 becomes more advantageous. However, every circumstance is different, and depending on your income, cash flow needs and investment resources, it may be more advantageous to take the benefit earlier.

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tours

TOP OF THE WORLD Trek in comfort and safety with Trans Himalayan Tours. BY KRISTY ALPERT

MOUNTAIN TIME: (Left to right) Bridge in Sagarmāthā National Park, sunset views and Nepali rum at the highest hotel bar in the world, the final ascent to the Hotel Everest View, and writer Kristy Alpert alongside her guide and porter PHOTOS: © KRISTY ALPERT

WHEN JAPANESE MOUNTAINEER Takashi Miyahara arrived in Nepal back in 1962, he did so with a one-way ticket and a dream to build up the country he had fallen in love with years before. Although Miyahara is not a local Nepali, per se, this spritely 83-year-old entrepreneur knows the country better than many born-and-bred locals. In his years living and working in the country, he traveled on foot across most of the nation’s 75 districts and pioneered the country’s tourism industry when he set up Trans Himalayan in 1968. The tour company was one of the first five travel agencies to open in Nepal, and it wasn’t long before Miyahara set to work on his next goal: opening a luxury hotel looking out onto Mount Everest. He realized his dream in 1971, and the Guinness Book of World Records recently listed Hotel Everest View as the Highest Placed Hotel in the World, at 13,000 feet. Although the most popular of THT’s tours include trekking up to Hotel Everest View — where guests have the option to either helicopter in to the hotel or trek for three days to the property with a certified THT guide and porter — the company can organize any

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trekking or tour activities within Nepal. Other popular areas for treks are the Annapurna Range, Kanchenjunga, Langtang, Manang and Mustang. The company customizes each group’s experience, catering to comfort levels and accommodation preferences — with options of a tea house trek where trekkers stay and dine in various lodges along the path; camping treks with lodges where guests stay in lodges but take a THT cook and kitchen staff member along to prepare all the meals; and full-on camping treks where guests stay in tents. The THT difference comes in its white glove service for its guests as well as its focus on safety while hiking in such challenging environments. Where many trekking agencies in Nepal will hire freelance guides, THT employs full-time, English-speaking guides (many of whom also speak Japanese) with 15–20 years’ experience leading groups through the Himalayas. “The safety and well-being of our guests is of utmost importance,” says Sonia Miyahara, sales and marketing manager, Hotel Everest View, “and our staff regularly undergo industry trainings in things such as first aid and English language improvement.”

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Hollywood’s Newest Star

The Kimpton Everly welcomes guests to an exclusive hideaway at the base of the Hollywood Hills. KIMPTON HOTELS & RESTAURANTS debuted the beautiful Kimpton Everly at the base of the Hollywood Hills in August 2017. Boasting 360-degree views, The Kimpton Everly offers easy access to LA’s famous attractions, while also providing an escape from the hustle and bustle with its location just steps from the iconic intersection of Hollywood and Vine. Light-filled interiors and bright pops of color complement the 216 guestrooms. Hotel amenities include in-room yoga mats, complimentary PUBLIC bikes, Atelier Bloem bath amenities, an evening wine hour, pet-friendly accommodations, same-day laundry/dry cleaning and valet parking. Twelve suites provide breathtaking city views, additional sitting areas, claw-foot soaking tubs, luxury linens, oversized pillows and ample natural light. The heart of the hotel, the lobby, greets guests with its 28-foot ceilings and an all-glass Library, available for private events. Two on-site

dining options include Jane Q, a street-level restaurant serving modern California fare, and Ever Bar, a 12-seat social hub that transforms from a laidback lounge into a livelier social space throughout the day. Stay active at the hotel’s 24-hour fitness center, featuring state-of-the-art equipment, rooftop yoga classes and complimentary maps of the Hollywood Hills’ miles of running and hiking trails. The fifth-floor rooftop pool, open sun up to sundown, has six cabanas and a light bites/cocktail menu. With nearly 10,000 square feet of meeting and event space, including three ballrooms, The Everly welcomes events of all types. Beachwood Ballroom’s industrial loft-style design features high ceilings, natural light and subtle hues. The Graham Boardroom can accommodate up to 15 people. The Everly truly embodies the laidback California lifestyle of its home in Beachwood

Canyon. Inspired by mid-century modernism, a highly curated approach created a space evocative of the sensibility of life in the Hollywood Hills, from low, deep furniture and soaring ceilings to a neutral material palette and quiet, honest materials. It’s uncomplicated, timeless and cool. Vintage pieces from the 1950s, 60s and 70s and pops of color complete the effortless design aesthetic. Conveniently located 13 miles from Los Angeles International Airport and seven miles from Bob Hope Airport, Hotel Everly is the perfect option for your next visit to the City of Angels. Rates start at $280 per night. Learn more and book your reservation today at everlyhotelhollywood.com. San Francisco-based Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants is a leading brand of boutique hotels and restaurants. Dedicated to helping people live full, balanced lives, Kimpton inspires guests with a wealth of special touches.

spas

END OF THE EARTH Get away from it all at Martinhal Beach Resort’s Finisterra Spa. BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

TIME FOR TRANQUILITY:

Finisterra Spa relaxation area with view to garden PHOTO: © FINISTERRA SPA

PORTUGAL’S ALGARVE COAST averages 300 sun-filled days a year. I’d been there for six of them, and my skin showed every one. I’m not sure which was worse — dehydration from the sun or the layers of SPF-30 I’d slathered on every day. It was time to head to Martinhal’s Finisterra Spa for some serious repair work. With my husband, Tim, and 16-year-old Mary, I had been at this 5-star resort for two days after spending a few in the central Algarve, where resorts (and beach-goers) sit elbow to elbow. We were enjoying the more laid-back feel of the Algarve’s western end, with its sleepy towns and uncrowded beaches. The area around Martinhal is a protected natural park, and after arriving we’d followed a cliff-top trail along the wild Atlantic side of Cape Saint Vincent, walking from vertigo-inducing heights to long, golden beaches where we watched surfers challenging some of Europe’s best waves. For us it was a spectator sport, although Mary was inspired to sign up for a surfing lesson

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at the resort’s Water Sports Center. While she did face-plants in the surf, Tim and I kayaked with one of the center’s guides to explore the sea caves and crystal waters of rocky outcrops we could see from the balcony of our room. Paddling made Tim notice how stiff his shoulders were from carrying camera equipment, making the prospect of a relaxing massage really alluring. So he was happy to join Mary and me as we headed for our spa experiences. Martinhal’s spa resides in its own building in a natural landscape apart from the hotel, villas and recreation areas. This enhances a remote-from-the-world feeling appropriate to its name, Finisterra, which means “end of the Earth” — a reference to Martinhal’s location at the southwesternmost point in Europe. It was on this remote point jutting into the Atlantic that Prince Henry the Navigator gathered the top navigators, geographers and mapmakers of the Golden Age of Discoveries to plan and

direct the explorations that made Portugal a great 15thcentury empire. The gold these explorers brought back still covers the altars and walls of Baroque churches like the one we saw in nearby Lagos. The location makes Martinhal a perfect base for exploring the western Algarve, but we were spa-bound, so gold-washed churches and Prince Henry’s outpost on the windswept point had to wait for another day. Fulfilling its promise as a family resort, Martinhal’s spa has treatments for everyone: mom and child facials, father and child back massages, mother and child manicures, and a range of Tweens & Teens offerings. Along with massages and manicures, the teen options include facials with masks and moisturizers, and introductions to skin care and establishing beauty routines. No stranger to spas, Mary wasn’t the least bit shy about following the smiling therapist who ushered her off for her facial. Tim and I lazed a little longer in the hot tub overlooking the natural landscape before we headed for our own bit of nirvana. The spa menu offers a dizzying list of options, and I really wanted to say, “One of each, please.” Massages include detox with herbal compresses, anti-stress deep-tissue back massage, full-body massage, reflexology, Ayurveda and head massages, but Tim selected the seaweed leaf and hot stones treatment, designed to relax tense and aching muscles. The spa’s body treatments use VOYA products, based on organic seaweed that contains iodine, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. I was tempted by the Detox Mud Wrap, an 80-

minute seaweed wrap that renews damaged cells, but instead chose the Sweet Ocean treatment, Finisterra’s signature body scrub with local sweet orange and almond bark in sweet almond oil. (Almond trees are a legacy of the area’s Moorish occupation; in February the hillsides are so white with their blossoms, it’s called “Algarve snow.”) This skin-brightening face and body massage with hot towels and organic lavender immersed me in another world, one of divine fragrances. My sun-damaged face needed special attention, so I added an Ocean Fresh Facial, a mask especially designed for sun-exposed skin, and a Seaweed Marine eye treatment that uses Atlantic seaweed, green tea and vitamin C to refresh, firm and hydrate sun-tired eyes. Mary and Tim were long gone when I finally emerged a new woman to stretch out with a cool drink in the relaxation area. This, like the entire resort, was built from and decorated with local materials — native woods, stone, cork and natural fibers. The interiors maximize natural light — even the treatment rooms are lit by skylights — and the glass wall of the relaxation area overlooks a garden with a Zen-like design of plants and grasses indigenous to the Western Algarve. All the gardens and landscaping at Martinhal follow this ethic, as does the architecture of low, whitewashed buildings that hug the hillside, echoing the traditional Algarve houses. As I looked out across the peaceful, sun-drenched landscape, I really could believe I was at the end of the Earth. JANUARY 2018

DIVINE DESIGN:

Treatment room (left), and wall art (right) PHOTOS: © FINISTERRA SPA

Finisterra Spa Martinhal Beach Family Resort Hotel Quinta do Martinhal, Apartado 54 8650-908 Sagres, Portugal tel 351 282 240 200 martinhal.com

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golf

ON THE GOLF TRAIL Play your way to Canada’s ultimate course at The Algonquin Resort.

CASTLE BY THE SEA: The Algonquin

PHOTO: © DONNELLE OXLEY

WHO DOESN’T LIKE A GOLF road trip, especially when it combines exciting courses with fresh seafood, scenic coastal drives and welcoming locals? Last summer I made a long-overdue pilgrimage to the eastern tip of Canada — the Maritime provinces of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. I was drawn by the buzz about Canada’s top golf designer, Rod Whitman, who had been busy in the Maritimes. His Cabot Links layout in Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Highlands opened to high praise, and deservedly so. Drawing inspiration from the classic courses of England and Scotland, Whitman transformed a former coastal coal mine into a true links course with views of the restless Gulf of St. Lawrence from every hole. Then he collaborated with Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw on the adjacent Cabot Cliffs, Canada’s No. 1 course (Golf Digest, 2017–18). Cabot Links is No. 5, and both rank in the world’s top 100. We played our way from course to course down Nova Scotia’s west coast to Digby and the iconic Stanley Thompson layout at the historic Digby Pines Golf Resort and Spa. From there we caught a ferry across the Bay of Fundy (home to the world’s highest tide) to New Brunswick and made our way south to St. Andrews. How can

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BY DALE LEATHERMAN

anyone not fall in love with a storybook village named St. Andrewsby-the-Sea? I did, on my first visit a decade ago, and it was just as much fun as I remembered, with brightly painted shops and inns lining the main street, and tourists happily consuming fresh lobster at outdoor eateries. On a hill in the center of town, the 233-room Algonquin Resort still reigns. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1889, the Tudor-style “castle by the sea” is an enduring favorite of visiting royalty and heads of state. It looked the same when we pulled beneath the portico — bright white with deep red roofs — but a $50 million renovation had added modern touches, many of them unseen. Kilted young men took charge of our bags and car, and we lingered in the lobby with a charming staff member, Sydney, the black Lab. It’s that kind of place, where black-tie affairs happen but you can play with a dog on the lobby floor and no one looks askance. The hotel has seen it all. History is everywhere: in the artwork, the fireplaces, the furnishings — and the golf course, which dates back to 1894 and boasts the country’s oldest clubhouse.

The 7,108-yard, par-72 Algonquin course delves into woods on the front nine, emerging into the open for a back nine overlooking Passamaquoddy Bay, with several bayside holes. Donald Ross mapped out the route in the 1920s, and Thomas McBroom redesigned it in 2000. But the most dramatic changes occurred in 2017, when Rod Whitman and associate Keith Cutten worked their magic. They touched up most holes on the front nine, changing bunkers, greens and fairway lines. On the back nine they moved several holes closer to the sea to optimize the views and natural hazards. The effect is stunning yet uncontrived. It’s hard to imagine the layout any other way. “Although the back nine is breathtaking, the front will offer a very good test for all golfers,” said Jason Porter, director of golf and head professional. “Whitman’s pot bunkers are strategically positioned and will definitely make a golfer think. The greens on holes one, four and seven are much larger now, and the breaks will cause a lot of head scratching. The seventh hole has great new tees and a pot bunker in front of the green that will scare even the best golfers.”

HOLE 7 | 432 yards, par 4

This nifty par 4 poses a difficult question on the second shot because the fairway ends on the brow of a steep drop-off to a green tucked into a hollow. Unless your drive is well down the fairway, you’ll be hitting a blind shot with a longish wood to a relatively shallow putting surface.

HOLE 10 | 225 yards, par 3

Thanks to the thinning of trees along the shore, this new hole now has a sweeping view of the bay and sets up one of Canada’s best four-hole stretches. The green is wide but shallow and well-bunkered.

HOLE 11 | 572 yards, par 5

By lengthening the hole and adding some clever mounding and bunkering, the designer created several different approach options. The hole also has “infinity green,” a technique used by Whitman’s mentor, Pete Dye. From 200 yards out, all you can see behind the green is sky and sea.

HOLE 12 | 170 yards, par 3

This cliffside hole has always been one of the prettiest par

3s in Canada, but its positioning was cramped, and trees blocked the view of the bay. Whitman thinned the trees, carved out a 170-yard back tee and accented the green with artsy bunkers. Wind off the bay makes this a tricky one-shotter.

HOLE 13 | 491 yards, par 5

PICTURE PERFECT: Algonquin green (top), and Hole 12 (bottom)

PHOTOS: © DONNELLE OXLEY

From a perch in a tree, Whitman discovered a new tee site next to the water, so this hole now hugs the shore from tee to green, with spectacular views of the bay and the town in the distance. Again, the wind makes it tougher than it looks.

The Algonquin Resort St.-Andrews-by-the-Sea, Autograph Collection 184 Adolphus St. St. Andrews, New Brunswick Canada E5B 1T7 tel 506 529 8823 marriott.com

JANUARY 2018

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photo by Steve McCurry

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chefs

HEIGHT OF TASTE Renowned Portuguese chefs get creative with TAP Air Portugal’s in-flight menus. BY KIMBERLY KROL BEGINNING IN SEPTEMBER 2017, TAP Air Portugal’s cuisine consultant, Chef Vitor Sobral, collaborated with six Michelin-starred chefs to introduce the airline’s Taste the Stars program. In-flight menus include a creation of one of the six renowned Portuguese chefs including Miguel Laffan, Rui Silvestre, Henrique Sá Pessoa, José Avillez, Rui Paula and George Mendes. The program will further promote Portuguese cooking talents, regional products and the country’s cuisine. A revolutionized wine list will follow. We learned more from each of TAP Air Portugal’s star chefs. Read on below to discover how Portuguese influences shine through in each of the dishes they’ve prepared for the onboard menus. TAP flies around 12 million passengers a year and growing.

HOW DID YOUR UPBRINGING IN CASCAIS INFLUENCE YOUR CUISINE? Miguel Laffan: I was born and raised in Cascais, and I am passionate about the village that helped me grow. I can still smell the fishermen’s boats arriving full of fish and seafood, and the market fueled my imagination as a future cook. The array of products available, from the fruit and vegetable markets to the villages of greater Lisbon, and the intense environment of sea and mountain molded my identity as a chef. YOU STRIVE TO HONOR NATIONAL FLAVORS. WHICH OF THOSE FLAVORS WILL BUSINESS-CLASS PASSENGERS EXPERIENCE? Rui Silvestre: In Executive Class I wanted to show passengers several flavors from north to south such as duck, rice, codfish, sea bass and green peas — national products, full of flavor and tradition. YOU ARE KNOWN FOR YOUR TRADITIONAL RECIPES ACCENTED WITH A CONTEMPORARY FLAIR. HOW DOES THAT TRANSLATE INTO YOUR TAP AIR PORTUGAL MENUS? Henrique Sá Pessoa: I have chosen and implemented dishes that showcase exactly that by picking recipes that blend a more traditional approach using modern and lighter methods of cooking. The idea is to have Portuguese authenticity, flavors and colors but using less common ingredients to give it that special twist and create impact.

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YOU ARE KNOWN FOR AVANT-GARDE CUISINE; IS IT DIFFICULT TO BE CREATIVE WITH CUISINE AT 30,000 FEET? Vitor Sobral: It is not easy when you have lots of creative limitations, considering all the cooking process behind the food TAP passengers eat in flight. Everything starts with creativity, but we have to consider the right products to create the recipes. Then we need to test them and redesign some cooking methods. When we get the expected result, it’s time to coach the catering team to be well-organized, making sure every step is achieved like we designed. After, they have to package the foods correctly, reserve and deliver to the planes. At 30,000 feet, the job is in the crew’s hands. They need to regenerate the food at the right temperatures and serve it to passengers. It is a lot of teamwork, and everyone is involved so we can get our food quality in the sky. YOUR RESTAURANTS HAVE MADE WORLD’S BEST LISTS. WHAT’S THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IN TAKING YOUR RECIPES AND ADAPTING THEM FOR AN AIRLINE? José Avillez: We have high quality standards. We are demanding when it comes to choosing the products, applying the right techniques, serving the correct way and providing the best possible service. When we work with an airline, the biggest challenge is the logistics of packaging meals and reheating them on board. That doesn’t happen in our restaurants.

STAR LINE-UP:

Flanked by flight attendants, (left to right) Rui Silvestre; Henrique Sá Pessoa; José Avillez; Fernando Pinto, CEO, TAP Air Portugal; Vítor Sobral; Rui Paula; Miguel Laffan PHOTO: © TAP AIR PORTUGAL

YOU’VE NOTED MEMORY AND INSPIRATION AS YOUR BIGGEST CULINARY INFLUENCES. WHAT MEMORIES INSPIRED YOUR TAP AIR PORTUGAL MENU? Rui Paula: Memory is my main source of inspiration, indeed. For TAP’s menu, I was inspired by my hometown, my place of birth, Oporto, and my childhood with my grandparents in Trás-osMontes, Alijó. Both dishes are a reinterpretation of two traditional ingredients from that place. YOU WERE BORN TO PORTUGUESE PARENTS. WHAT FLAVORS FROM YOUR CHILDHOOD ARE YOU INCORPORATING INTO THE MENUS FOR TAP? George Mendes: My earliest childhood memories with Portuguese cooking are the ingredients my mother would use at home — olive oil, paprika, fresh parsley, garlic, tomato and plenty of bacalhau. These are the flavors I will introduce on TAP menus; I feel these are some of the key ingredients in traditional Portuguese cuisine and the base for many dishes. TAP AIR PORTUGAL flytap.com

cruising

LUXURIOUS LAUNCHES AmaWaterways widens the world of river cruising.

AMAWATERWAYS HAS BEEN at the forefront of river cruising since its launch 15 years ago, establishing its high reputation on the grand rivers of Europe, chiefly the Danube and the Rhine. Now it expands its reputation not only with new highend appointments but also with features designed to appeal to younger, more active passengers. Headquartered in California, the line operates 19 river vessels, each serving no more than 164 passengers. The cabins are spacious for river ships, the service highly attentive and the cuisine sterling. AmaWaterways was the first river cruise line inducted into La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, and its specialty restaurant, Chef ’s Table, with a true tasting menu, is available at no extra cost to all passengers at least once on each voyage. Wine, beer and soft drinks are complimentary at lunch and dinner, as are sparkling wine and fresh fruit juices at breakfast. Also included in the fare: internet access, WiFi and a shore excursion at each port. AmaWaterways will enhance these standard, nearly all-inclusive amenities in 2018 with a free Sip & Sail daily cocktail hour and a wellness program featuring healthful menus and group exercise programs. AmaWaterways, long noted for wine cruises, offers vintners and wine tastings on board as well as excursions to nearby vine-

BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

yards, and there are more than 50 such sailings slated for 2018. AmaWaterways was also the first river cruise line to provide a fleet of bicycles, enabling passengers to make independent port excursions. Group biking adventures are also on tap, some arranged by AmaWaterways’ new partner, Backroads, an international operator well-regarded for its biking and hiking trips. While AmaWaterways’ two newest ships, AnaKristina (2017) and AnaLea (2018), ply primarily the Rhine and the Danube, the line is branching out to explore more adventurous riverbanks. The Zambezi Queen sails Botswana’s Chobe River for four-day cruises that can be combined seamlessly with seven-day wildlife safaris in East Africa. Another ship, the AmaDaral, cruises the Mekong River in Vietnam and Cambodia; in 2018 it will offer its own wine cruise hosted by California’s Sbragia Family Vineyards. AmaWaterways intends to increase further its level of luxury cruising and its appeal to more active passengers in 2019 with the launch of the AmaMagma on the Danube River, a super river ship with an open-water sports platform. Twice the width of its other river vessels, AmaWaterways’ ship of the future will be yet more luxurious and sports-oriented — fully in line with current trends in river cruising.

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GO WITH THE FLOW:

AmaKristina (left); guided bicycle tour in Dürnstein, Austria (top right); and Sandeman Winery tasting (bottom right) PHOTOS: © AMAWATERWAYS

ays aterw W a Am its unch will la t t, mos newes hip ous s spaci e 19, th in 20 , agma AmaM dth i the w twice other of its ships, river es uxuri with l tch. to ma

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feature

The Ride Revolution

Despite struggles, Uber and Lyft continue to change the way we get around. BY MEGAN HILL GETTING THERE:

(Left to right) Setting up a pickup, arriving, and an Uber driver PHOTOS: © WITTHAYA PRASONGSIN | DREAMSTIME, © STEPHEN COBURN | DREAMSTIME, © NATEE MEEPIAN | DREAMSTIME

WHEN RIDE-HAILING COMPANIES UBER AND LYFT hit the streets in 2011 and 2012, respectively, they signaled a tectonic shift in the way people share transportation. And they have been cutting into taxicab profits ever since. The on-demand vehicle services work similarly. They’re run through smartphone apps that allow users to, with a few clicks, order a car, input a destina-

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tion and pay using a credit card or online bank account. The straightforward system revolutionized the ride-hailing experience by eliminating the tiresome process of flagging down a cab, suffering through the confusing fare system and navigating the difficulties of paying the driver. The user experience is generally superior with Uber and Lyft, too: Drivers might offer water or snacks and the ability to choose your own music, and there is more transparency in terms of fees and routes. Riders also have the ability to rate their drivers and give feedback, designed to help

improve the user experience by weeding out drivers who are unsafe, unfriendly or otherwise ill-equipped. In theory — if not always in practice — the driver experience is better than working for a cab company. Uber and Lyft drivers can set their own hours, use their own vehicles and possibly earn higher wages than if they worked for cab companies. And because the interactions with customers — from getting paid to selecting a route — are all managed by the app, drivers should feel less burdened overall. Ride-hailing through Uber and Lyft has become so popular that in some urban areas corporations offer credits with the companies in lieu of a corporate car. For more casual uses, the sheer density of Uber and Lyft drivers in many cities means people now commute, shop and head to their favorite bar or restaurant via Uber or Lyft. Uber and Lyft, both based in San Francisco, enjoyed exponential growth since their inception. The two companies

created a billion-dollar industry in just a few years. For its part, Uber now has about 8 million users worldwide and a $69 billion net value in 2017, operating in 83 countries and 674 cities worldwide. In 2016 the company’s drivers gave 2 billion rides around the world. The ride-hailing leader fulfills 40 million rides a month and cornered 77 percent of the U.S. ride-hailing market. In New York the iconic yellow taxi is being replaced by Uber and Lyft cars, which as of 2017 outnumber cabs in the city by a four-to-one margin. Lyft, while a smaller company, still holds its own in the market. The company boasts 3 million active monthly users and 1 million rides per day. Lyft passengers took 160 million rides in 2016, and the company operates in 300 cities, all in the United States. Lyft has a long way to go to catch up to its competitor, but it’s making inroads. Lyft’s gross bookings and the revenue earned by its drivers grew by 25 percent to $1 billion in the

t Lyf nd a r the Ube ized n o ry i ust olut ind rev g n ing ili -ha inat e m d i i l r by e art p an. n i lem d d a mi call the han t hail r he ers t d a i r R her, atc p s i d ugh thro r pp. a ac ne a o h p art a sm

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SMOOTH RIDE:

Two tourists in New York look at their phone and wait for a Lyft driver to arrive (left), and airports even have Lyft and Uber pickup spots. (right). PHOTOS: © BENOIT DAOUST | DREAMSTIME, © JONATHAN WEISS | DREAMSTIME

second quarter of 2017, up from $800 million in the previous period. services are set to be a permanent fixture of the transportation That rate makes it a faster-growing company than Uber. Lyft, in 2017, landscape. And yet despite their success, the companies have not announced plans to expand worldwide and give Uber an even bigger been without a number of crises and controversies, with Uber run for its money. Few details have been announced, but insiders taking the lead on that dubious honor. expect Lyft to unveil more as 2018 gets underway. The app has seen cab drivers protest its inception in Paris, Both companies are investing in Berlin and London. As a result, self-driving car technology, putting it’s been banned altogether in With the continued rise of smartphone them at the forefront of this new Berlin, and the government removement. Uber implemented jected its expansion into London. usage, it seems both services are set driverless cars first, rolling them This year has been especially to be a permanent fixture of the out in Pittsburgh and Tempe, Ariz. tough for Uber, with scandal after transportation landscape. Later in 2017, Lyft announced a scandal plaguing the company. partnership with drive.ai, which In March a video surfaced of specializes in driverless car technology. Lyft says it will implement company cofounder and then-CEO Travis Kalanick being a jerk a pilot program in San Francisco that will offer free rides to select to his Uber driver. Then news arose of a legally questionable customers in cars that use the technology. Per California law, program the company implemented called Greyball, aimed at however, the cars must also have a driver present to act as backup. avoiding government scrutiny. Further allegations of a misogynistic With the continued rise of smartphone usage, it seems both workplace and incidences of sexual harassment helped lead to

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Kalanick’s resignation from his CEO position, though he still remains on the Uber board of directors. Financially questionable practices led to the company burning through capital and consistently operating at a loss despite its growth in revenue. Uber sued the city of Seattle to block a law allowing gig-economy workers — such as Uber’s own drivers — to unionize. The company has also systematically worked to undermine Lyft, even implementing a coordinated effort dubbed Operation SLOG and a program called Hell to track Lyft drivers — all without their knowledge, of course. Reports surfaced of Uber’s mistreatment of its drivers and the general discontent of its workforce. Its operations team has been in disarray for months as the company tries to salvage its brand in the midst of multiple controversies. Last year news broke that Uber’s self-driving cars were malfunctioning. Then came a lawsuit from Waymo, a driverless car company under Google parent Alphabet, that Uber conspired to steal and duplicate Google technology in its self-driving cars. New legal woes may arise from the recent disclosure that Uber paid hackers $100,000 to destroy the personal informa-

tion of 57 million of its riders and drivers the hackers had stolen in 2016, rather than alert authorities and users at the time, as required by law. With so many issues plaguing Uber, Lyft stood to benefit. The company saw a jump in ridership of around 7 percent between the end of January and March as riders switched allegiances following all that bad press for its competitor. But Lyft drew ire of its own when reports surfaced of the company cutting fares, forcing drivers to spend more time driving, refusing to offer benefits and reporting its wages are higher than they really are. Uber made significant changes to overcome the deluge of negative coverage and recurring scandals. In response to reports of disgruntled drivers, Uber implemented an in-app tipping component similar to the one currently available on the Lyft app, which has offered tipping since 2012. In several surveys, drivers said they liked driving for Lyft better because of the tipping system, so that small change could go a long way to help keep Uber drivers happy. Despite struggles, both companies continue growing and remain at the forefront of the transportation industry. It seems Uber and Lyft are here to stay.

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feature

A Sense of Adventure Fulfill your dreams of exploring the world with one-of-a-kind expeditions. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

ICY WATERS:

Kayaking during John Hall’s Alaska Untamed Alaska Tour PHOTO: © JOHN HALL'S ALASKA/TONY ANDREA/

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THE SOFT SOUNDS OF WATER DROPS falling back to the lake from our paddles, and of our paddles dipping into the water, were nearly all we could hear. Around us, icebergs floated atop the lake and plummeted deeper below as they transitioned through their frozen existences. The stillness surrounding our small group of eight kayakers — novices and experienced paddlers alike — and our two guides on our kayaking adventure was unreal. Together, we navigated the icebergs on a glacier-fed lake near the small fishing village of Cordova, Alaska, enjoying a quiet on that summer day seldom found in the connected world in which we live. A sense of adventure may be as individual as travelers themselves, so it’s nearly impossible to land on just one defini-

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tion when it comes to adventure travel. One person’s idea of adventure travel may be taking a bicycling tour through a new city, while another may go snorkeling with whale sharks in Mexico, and a third, paragliding over the French Alps. Fortunately for us travelers, there are plenty of outfitters to suit everyone’s sense of adventure. The aforementioned iceberg kayaking experience is but one of myriad offerings by John Hall’s Alaska and was part of the 11-day Untamed Alaska land tour. This year, John Hall’s Alaska celebrates 35 years of offering remarkable opportunities for travelers to discover the wildlife, native cultures and geographical wonders of The Last Frontier. Its one-of-a-kind itineraries guide guests through Alaska, the Yukon and the Canadian Rockies in the summer, fall and winter, customizing tours to suit guests’ wishes. “The beauty of our tours is they can be tailored to each traveler’s desires,” said John Hall, Sr., CEO and president, John Hall’s Alaska. “Whether they seek adventure, relaxation or a combination of the two, guests just have to let their travel experts know how they dream

of exploring Alaska, and John Hall’s Alaska can create the perfect custom tour.” Travelers with John Hall’s Alaska become alumni after their first trip and are invited on exclusive Alumni Adventures to popular destinations around the world. This year alumni are traveling to Australia and New Zealand, Ireland, the Panama Canal and the Rhine River, all custom-built and with the same attention to detail found on The Last Frontier tours. Butterfield & Robinson encourages travelers to “slow down to see the world,” and for more than 50 years the active travel company designed journeys to enable its guests to do just that. New this year is a six-day Berlin to Prague Biking tour, designed for those who occasionally bicycle, as the route is mostly flat, on bike paths and quieter roads; more enthusiastic riders can opt for longer daily rides, too. Accommodations along the way include a wellness center, once a royal property, and an urban retreat, once a monastery, complete with contemporary décor and spa, at the foot of Prague Castle. “Along with Prague to Vienna and Vienna to Budapest, this new trip completes the trilogy of journeys linking the four grand capitals of Middle Europe,” said Chris Mark, director of Central and Eastern Europe, Butterfield & Robinson. “And like its counterparts, Berlin to Prague Biking serves up remarkable variety over six days: city and countryside, high culture and pristine nature, wine country and beer halls, German hospitality and Bohemian chic. “Travelers should seize on any opportunity to visit Berlin.

Harnessing the edgy energy from its days as an encircled city on the front line of the Cold War, the German capital has become a nexus of art and sculpture, cool architecture and an even cooler urban ‘scene.’” In addition to the Berlin to Prague Biking tour, Butterfield & Robinson offers 90 itineraries in 60 destinations worldwide. Marine life enthusiasts delight in the seven-night, small-ship sailings with UnCruise Adventures in Mexico’s Sea of Cortes. The

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EXPLORE THE WORLD:

Butterfield & Robinson’s Berlin to Prague Biking tour (top), and snorkeling with sea lions on an UnCruise adventure PHOTOS: © BUTTERFIELD & ROBINSON, © UNCRUISE

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full week of adventure below and above the water’s surface includes visiting the UNESCO World Heritage site, often likened to a marine life-rich natural aquarium; watching for whales, mobula rays, dolphin and birds; hiking; kayaking; stand-up paddle boarding; and exploring by skiffs. Did we mention snorkeling with sea lion pups and vibrant reef fish? And if the season’s right, searching for whale sharks in Bahía de La Paz. All of UnCruise’s sailings — also in Alaska, Costa Rica, the Galápagos and the Pacific Northwest, to name a few more destinations — focus on exploring nature and wildlife outside, and each ship carries its own adventure equipment and a team of knowledgeable expedition guides to off-ship adventures. If your sense of adventure has you looking to Antarctica, Intrepid Travel and its 7-, 11-, 14-, 20- and 23-day sailing itineraries take its guests to the land as far down under as you can go. Intrepid’s once-in-a-lifetime journeys take travelers to the ends of the Earth — literally — and immerse guests in a frozen landscape that provides the setting for unforgettable experiences. “At a time when it feels like every hidden vacation spot has been discovered and everyone seems to be traveling to the same places, Antarctica remains a destination few people have ever seen,” explained Leigh Barnes, North American director, Intrepid Travel. The adventure tour operator invites guests to cross Drake Passage and set foot on the Antarctic Peninsula, explore ice-dotted bays by Zodiac and get up close to gentoo penguins and migrating blue whales. Back on board, they’ll settle in and warm up in the comfort of Intrepid Travel’s state-of-the-art polar vessels. “We at Intrepid Travel are committed to helping people reach even the farthest corners of the world, which is why we’re thrilled to offer several different Antarctica departures,” Barnes added. “Our itineraries give travelers a unique opportunity to explore the continent, where they will embark on adventures through pristine frozen landscapes, sail across icy seas and even witness penguins and blue whales in the wild.” Back on solid ground, Eleven Experience simply states, “Our purpose is to custom-make powerful experiences that impact the people who impact the world.” The experiential travel experts’ unofficial mission is to hear the words, “That was the best day of my life.” Fortunately for its guests, the Eleven Guide Team, an international group of highly trained outdoor and adventure specialists, does everything it can, every day, to make that happen. “Our job is to show guests the best places in the world and, while doing so, push beyond their comfort zones where they

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begin to open up and engage with nature, themselves and each other in ways they never have before,” said Alan Bernholtz, director of experience and a guide with Eleven Experience. Eleven Experience’s best places in the world, or Hideouts, are found in The Bahamas, Colorado, Florida, France and Iceland, and adventures in these Hideouts include cycling, fishing and skiing. Choose where you want to go and when, and Eleven’s team of Experience Managers will work with you to plan your dream all-inclusive itinerary, which means you spend more time having the best days of your life rather than hassling with details.

ONE WITH NATURE:

Guests on a Zodiac during an Intrepid Travel tour in Antarctica (top), and a picnic in France, Eleven Experience-style (bottom) PHOTOS: © INTREPID TRAVEL, © ELEVEN EXPERIENCE

mice | SEOUL

See You in Seoul Get down to business at an event in South Korea’s capital. BY ELLEN CLARK

nly is Not o y, i tast kimch sts cienti but s the mined deter ge cabba spicy s p l lso he dish a u d fl nt bir preve tle ewcas and N se. disea

SEOUL IS KNOWN FOR KIMCHI, karaoke, Korean barbecue and jjimjilbang (Korean sauna). Its up-to-date, energetic and fun-loving residents work hard and play hard; and while they are almost always up for a night on the town, when it comes to business they can be shrewd and savvy. It’s no surprise Seoul boasts a considerable reputation as a first-class MICE destination given its ever-growing infrastructure and highly advanced facilities for all sizes of meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions. Its convenient location, award-winning Incheon International Airport, sizable and sophisticated complexes and state-of-the-art technology all add to its appeal. It also boasts a transportation system that includes a modern 18-line subway connecting every corner of Seoul — with signage, maps and announcements in English — plus an extensive bus system and taxis with free interpretation service. The city offers venues to fit almost any MICE event, big or small, formal or casual. Planners will appreciate working with the Seoul MICE Alliance, the public-private corporation operated by the Seoul

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Metropolitan Government and Seoul Tourism Organization to expand the city’s MICE industry. The organization started with 47 members in 2010 and now boasts 260. As far as venues go, COEX Convention and Exhibition Center, established in 1979, hosts a yearly average of 200 exhibitions and more than 2,000 separate meetings. COEX meeting facilities consist of four main exhibition halls and 54 dividable meeting rooms. The complex also includes three 5-star hotels, Asia’s largest shopping mall, three multinational office skyscrapers, two top theaters and the city’s only airport terminal. Located in Gangnam, SETEC comprises three exhibition halls and four meeting rooms with 51,279 square feet of floor space that can be configured to accommodate the demands of various functions, specialty exhibitions, expos, international meetings, events and performances. It is also fully equipped with a wide range of annex and support facilities. The aT Center, a cultural and recreational venue, features exhibition and conference spaces fully equipped with state-of-the-art audiovisual systems and storage for any type of meeting, conference, seminar, banquet, performance or exhibition. A simultaneous interpretation system is also available. The conference hall at the AW Convention Center can host large events such as international conferences and receptions, business seminars and small conferences. The Grand Ballroom, with a capacity

of 2,000 guests, offers customized banquet services and the latest sound and lighting systems. While scores of downtown hotels offer space for business meetings, four of the biggest and most popular are the Best Western Premier Seoul Garden Hotel, Stanford Hotel Seoul, Hotel Prima Seoul and Belle-Essence Seoul Hotel (the former Renaissance Seoul Hotel). Seoul doesn’t rest on its laurels when it comes to improving and expanding its MICE reputation. On Aug. 28, 2017, COEX hosted the Seoul MICE Trade Show in order to boost the Seoul MICE industry by providing business and networking opportunities for cooperatives and Seoul MICE Alliance members and to ultimately attract more MICE business. A total of 215 people — including 58 from 39 cooperatives, 136 from 70 SMA organizations and 21 from four sponsor groups — attended this event. For this special event the Seoul Metropolitan Government, Seoul Tourism Organization, Korea Tourism Organization, COEX and Seoul MICE Alliance worked together to host programs such as sharing successful MICE case studies, introducing MICE support programs and providing business consultations to promote the Seoul meetings industry. Seoul even offers special-interest tours for visiting event participants who have a little down time. A Sustainable Energy tour visits the city’s major energy facilities and public information centers. The Seoul on Screen tour takes a close-up look at Korea’s cultural content industry with a focus on video archiving, broadcasting and the broad-spectrum applications of digital video content actively in use today. And the IT Industry Tour explores the future of communications technology by visiting the brand exhibition centers of KT, SK Telecom and Samsung, local leaders in the field.

TASTE OF SEOUL:

(Left to right) Seoul shopping mall, The National Museum of Korea and Korean cuisine

PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK

UNIQUE VENUES A must-see attraction in Seoul, The National Museum of Korea serves as the nation’s main cultural and historical repository, preserving and exhibiting items from prehistoric times to the early 20th century. It is also one of the most impressive venues for MICE events and offers both indoor and outdoor space for conventions and receptions. museum.go.kr Who would think of hosting a MICE event at a post office? Going beyond the capabilities of a regular post office, the Seoul Central Post Office makes comfortable and efficient conference rooms and reception halls available for a wide variety of functions. And it offers three-language simultaneous translation equipment. koreapost.go.kr With venues in 70 countries, Hard Rock International is one of the most globally recognized companies. While generally known for being a hip restaurant decorated with music-related memorabilia, Hard Rock Café Seoul can host any event or conference from a small group to a larger party of more than 300 participants. On top of Korean hospitality, a multinational staff can provide the service in various languages suitable for global events. hardrock.com/cafes/seoul

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Less time flying. More time for business.

Only Air India has non-stop service to India from New York, Newark, Chicago, San Francisco, and Washington, DC. For reservations, call your travel counselor or 1-800-223-7776. www.airindia.in

We’re Honored. Our thanks to the readers of Global Traveler for choosing Air India as the “Best Airline in Central/South Asia & India” for the fourth consecutive year!

BUSINESS destinations in ments o m l i ranqu Le's Find t i Phi h P as. g amon ical se i p b o a r r t K and cliffs g n i n stun

GUATEMALA CITY

ANNAPOLIS

CAPE TOWN

64 PARIS

PHOTOS: © CHIRASAK TOLERTMONGKOL | DREAMSTIME, © OKSANAPHOTO | DREAMSTIME

LEISURE destinations

BUCHAREST

ANKARA

ALASKA

74 KRABI

destination one | GUATEMALA CITY

Inspiration for Change A new optimism begins to boost tourism in Guatemala City. BY JACK GUY GUATEMALA CITY HAS LONG BEEN better known for its crime statistics than its popularity as a tourist destination, but things could finally be changing. A raft of regeneration projects brought new energy to the capital of Central Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest economy, along with a growing sense of optimism among residents. At the same time, significant difficulties continue to hold back development and discourage foreign investment in what

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remains a troubled part of the world. In fact, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find these contradictions wherever you look in Guatemala City. On the one hand, World Bank figures show the economy has been one of the strongest in Latin America in recent years, but statistics also show Guatemala suffers some of the worst poverty, malnutrition and maternal-child health rates in the region. According to experts, the situation results from high

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens must have a valid passport with at least six months of validity remaining for stays of less than 90 days.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Spanish

GATHERING PLACES: Guatemala City Metropolitan Cathedral at Plaza de la Constitución (left), Barceló Guatemala City’s reception (top) and event spaces (bottom left), and The Westin Camino Real (bottom right) PHOTOS: © DIEGO GRANDI | DREAMSTIME, © BARCELÓ GUATEMALA CITY, © WESTIN CAMINO REAL

LODGING BARCELÓ GUATEMALA CITY With two restaurants, a sports bar and a spa, this 5-star hotel is one of the best in town, popular with business travelers. 7a Ave., 15-45, Zone 9 $$$ HOTEL PAN AMERICAN If you want to stay in Zone 1, this is the place to be: smart guestrooms in an Art Deco building, a stone’s throw away from the central square and the presidential palace. 9a Calle, 5-63, Zone 1 $$

rates of inequality between the ruling elite and the vast majority of the population. Anyone who takes a short drive from the wealthy enclaves of zones 10 and 14 to the slums on the outskirts of the city can see this reality at work. As such, Guatemala City has a lot of potential in terms of tourism and business opportunities, but the current conditions have stifled development. One thing may bring about change: the ongoing work of the United Nations-backed International Commission Against Impunity in Guatemala (known as CICIG by its initials in Spanish). The organization has been investigating rampant corruption in political and business circles and brought down the Otto Peréz Molina government in September 2015 on the back of massive popular protests. Since then the country has been run by former TV clown Jimmy Morales, who came to power on an anti-corruption

ticket but has since been rocked by graft allegations of his own. In September 2017 Morales narrowly survived a Congressional vote to strip him of his immunity and open the way for a possible trial on allegations of illegal campaign financing, yet another sign of the political instability continuing to grip the country. For activist Natalia Peréz Arévalo from the Justicia Ya collective, Morales is part of the old system that benefits from corruption. “The corruption has deep roots in the political and economic system of Guatemala,” she said, criticizing Morales’ attempts to stop the CICIG from working. “To say that the fight against corruption weakens the development and economic growth of the country shows a belief that corruption is necessary for the economy to function.” With the tentacles of corruption extending through-

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THE WESTIN CAMINO REAL Guests at this refined hotel can relax in the outdoor pool after a day of meetings before heading out to eat and drink in buzzing Zone 10. Avenida la Reforma and 14 Calle Guatemala City $$$

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ANCIENT ATTRACTIONS: The Mayan ruins of Tikal (left) and the volcano-ringed Lake Atitlan in the Highlands (right) are both popular tourist spots. PHOTOS: © QUOC ANH LAI | DREAMSTIME, © SIMONDANNHAUER | DREAMSTIME

JUST THE FACTS Time Zone: GMT -6 Phone code: Country code: 502 Currency: Guatemalan quetzal Key industries: Sugar, textiles, tourism

DINING MERCADO 24 This Zone 4 mainstay uses fresh ingredients from the 23 markets dotted around Guatemala City to make delicious dishes for a trendy crowd. Ruta 3 Vía 5, Zone 4 $$ RESTAURANTE ALTUNA This traditional Spanish restaurant is found in Zone 1 and makes a great choice if you are looking for great seafood, attentive service and a refined atmosphere. 5a Ave., 12-31 $$ TAMARINDOS Thai-Italian fusion with a hint of Guatemalan influences might not sound like the most likely combination, but Tamarindos confounds expectations with amazing food and an expansive wine list in Zone 10. Calle 2-19A, Zone 10 $$$

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out Guatemalan society, activists hope popular protests and the continued investigations of the CICIG lead to a fairer society and allay the fears of international investors. However, other issues besides corruption — high crime rates, a lack of high-quality infrastructure, a lack of highly skilled workers and the weakness of state institutions — discourage investment as well. The World Bank’s Doing Business survey ranked Guatemala 88th out of 189 countries, and the Central American nation ranked 136th out of 176 countries in the Transparency International 2016 Corruption Perception Index, so there is a lot of work to be done. If Guatemala confronts these problems, it could see plenty of opportunities for growth. The country has a lot of points in its favor, including natural resources, a strategic location and a youthful population, but reforms are necessary to unlock its potential. Despite the present difficulties, Peréz remains optimistic about the future. “I believe in the people, I believe in this country, and I firmly believe that there is a different way of doing things,” she said. “I believe in a more equal, safer and prosperous Guatemala.” One sector that continues to grow despite multiple challenges is tourism. The number of visitors from January to August 2017 rose 14.2 percent higher than the same period in 2016, despite concerns over tourist infrastructure and safety. Popular sites include the Mayan ruins of Tikal,

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the volcano-ringed Lake Atitlan and the colonial city of Antigua. While authorities are pleased with the growing number of visitors, experts say the country needs to focus more on sustainable tourism. “You have to look at the money but also the cultural heritage,” said Claire Dalles, a lecturer at the Universidad del Valle de Guatemala, in an interview with the Guatemalan daily Prensa Libre newspaper. “It’s a job for the tourism authorities, tour operators and the tourists.” While many visitors view Guatemala City as a stopover, regeneration projects are helping transform the city into a destination in itself. The formerly crime-ridden neighborhood of Zone 4 is now home to bars, restaurants and cultural spaces such as Karma, Shasta and La ERRE, while the historic center in Zone 1 is becoming a favorite with young fashionable locals after years as an administrative and commercial center. In fact, creative industries are booming in Guatemala City, with galleries such as The 9.99 and studios such as Decontrol providing a boost to cultural and artistic life garnering international attention. These kinds of projects point to a new optimism among residents. It is easy to forget Guatemala is still emerging from the shadow of a 36-year civil war that ended in 1996, and society still bears many scars. However, if you keep your ear to the ground, you’ll discover a sense Guatemala perches on the verge of momentous change which could finally unlock the enormous potential of the country.

CHECKING IN WITH LUISO PONCE Cofounder, Design Studio Decontrol

What inspired you to set up a design studio? Our biggest motivation was knowing we both [Luiso Ponce and Andres Vargas] had artistic skills that would make a solid combination and deliver a unique approach in the Guatemalan market. How have creative industries in Guatemala changed in recent years? The democratization of creative tools and the internet made it possible for more experimentation to take place. As a result, a new wave of studios and innovative projects developed separate from traditional advertising. How has the art and design world grown in Guatemala in recent years? The art scene in Guatemala has always been the biggest in Central America. In recent years there has been an upturn and there have been more high-quality projects, but there is still a lot of work to be done in order to compete on the world stage.

How does the political and economic situation influence the work of Decontrol? Without a doubt the political situation affects everyone in Guatemala either directly or indirectly. In the past four years, various corruption scandals in Guatemala have also empowered the people to find their voice and demand things work as they should. It’s something that motivates us to push forward and try to improve the things that happen in our community. How can Guatemalan creativity reach an international audience? We think there are various exhibitors and local artists who do things well, and as a result they’ve managed to expand their audience. The answer is simple, and it comes from hard work. Which creative spaces should visitors to Guatemala City make sure they see? They should not miss Proyectos Ultravioleta, The 9.99 Gallery, Gente Secreta, Sótano 1, La ERRE, to name a few.

DESIGN DUO: Andres Vargas (left) and Luiso Ponce (right) PHOTO: © DESIGN STUDIO DECONTROL

JANUARY 2018

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ART AND CULTURE: Guatemala National Palace at Plaza de la Constitución (top), and Guatemalan weaving for sale at market (bottom) PHOTOS: © DIEGO GRANDI | DREAMSTIME, © SHANNON DRAWE | DREAMSTIME

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DIVERSIONS

Guatemala City is building a reputation as an attractive tourist destination of its own with a growing art and culinary scene. Whereas the colonial city of Antigua was the preferred base for tourists in years past, an increasing number now appreciate the attractions of the capital. Business travelers most likely stay in Zone 10, also known as the Zona Viva. Here, you will find the top international chain hotels and restaurants. There are several shopping malls, including Oakland Mall and Plaza Fontabella, where you can pick up

JANUARY 2018

souvenirs. Plaza Fontabella is also home to the best bookshop in the city, Sophos. Over in Zone 4 you will find innovative restaurants such as Mercado 24 and Shasta, as well as bars like Karma. Late at night, Espacio Solemne is the place to be. The next day, if you’re in need of a caffeine fix, you’ll find fine Guatemalan coffee on sale at Paradigma and Rojo Cerezo, two cafés at the forefront of the growing barista movement in Guatemala. Suitably fortified, check out the exhibitions at La ERRE or head over to Zone 1 to The 9.99, both heavyweights in the contemporary art scene. In fact, Guatemalan art is making waves around the world, and the artists at Proyectos Ultravioleta are ones to watch. Its latest project involved transporting a mini-gallery to LACMA in Los Angeles, providing further evidence of the international reach of Guatemalan artists. Other good spots for art fans include Proyecto Poporopo in Zone 2 and Espacio Sotano 1 in Zone 1. You can also visit the presidential palace and the cathedral on the central square in Zone 1 before taking a look around the atmospheric central market.

INFO TO GO

La Aurora International Airport, the fourth-busiest in Central America, is a two-terminal facility located about four miles from Zone 1. The airport completed a renovation project in 2008 and acts as a hub for the Cuban airlines Cubana de Aviación, Aerogaviota and Aero Caribbean, and also takes flights from more than two dozen international carriers. La Aurora lies close to Zone 10, location of the majority of business hotels, but traffic at peak times can make for long journeys. Book a taxi in advance or find one outside the terminal on arrival. Public transport is not available from the airport terminal.

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stateside | ANNAPOLIS

Fair Winds When it comes to business, all’s shipshape in Annapolis. BY DEBRA BOKUR ROOFTOPS:

FROM THE CHARMING BRICK-LINED streets populated with 18th-century homes to the salty tang carried by the coastal breeze, the historic city of Annapolis proves a memorable, year-round destination for both business and leisure. Located on Chesapeake Bay within Anne Arundel County — which boasts a full 520 miles of coastline — Annapolis has been tied to America’s history since the United States’s earliest days as a nation. It even served as its shortterm capital from November 1783 until August 1784. Annapolis’ vivid history remains one of its major credentials as a compelling tourist destination in addition to its position as the hub of American sailing. The city is home to the United States Naval Academy, St. John’s College and the Maryland State House. Built in 1772 and notable as the location where the Treaty of Paris was

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ratified in 1784, this particular address bears the singular distinction of being the oldest statehouse in continuous legislative use within the United States. The historic building’s architecture includes the largest wooden dome in America to be constructed entirely without nails. Tourists also flock to Annapolis to admire lesser-known historic sites such as the Hammond-Harwood House, sheltering a collection of John Shaw furniture and paintings by artist Charles Wilson Peale. Other favorites include the Paca House and Garden, built by Declaration of Independence signer William Paca. This elegant 18th-century Georgian mansion is particularly known for its terraced Colonial-design garden. “Tourism is a major player in the city’s economy, ranking second only to state government,” explains Connie Del Signore, president and CEO, Visit Annapolis and Anne Arundel County. “Unlike many destinations, we are not seasonal. There’s something going on year-round — even our sailing season lasts most of the year.” The host of events on this year’s annual calendar includes boat shows, the Annapolis Film Festival, an eight-part winter lecture series at the Annapolis Maritime Museum and Restaurant Week in February, plus a roster of worldclass concerts, galas, theater performances, festivals and art fairs. Quirky local events include the Annapolis Oyster Roast & Sock Burning, March 18. Popular experiences include Wednesday Night Sailboat Races and Saturday ArchiTrex Tours that explore the city’s architecture and unique stories in depth. In May visitors can enjoy the Chesapeake Bay Blues Festival; in June themed festivals include Annapolis Greek Festival, Annapolis Italian Festival

HOIST THE SAILS:

SCENIC DRIVES

and Annapolis Irish Festival. The United States Naval Academy also hosts a Distinguished Artist Series that will this year include the Russian National Ballet. This robust annual calendar, coupled with a stunning geographic setting, is a definite factor when it comes to the city’s attraction as a MICE location. Besides the downtown area, popular meeting settings include the shopping and casino area conveniently located near Baltimore-Washington International Airport just outside the city. According to Del Signore, these elements not only hold attraction for meeting planners weighing the merits of various sites, they’ve also proven a significant factor in high

meeting attendance. “From walking, food and history tours to getting out on the water and special events,” offers Del Signore, “there’s always something for delegates to do.” Current development projects include the $200 million flagship Live! Hotel located at Maryland Live! Casino adjacent to Arundel Mills Mall, due for completion spring or summer 2018. Features of the 350,000-square-foot property include 310 luxurious guestrooms, a 17-story hotel tower, a spa, multiple dining venues, a 1,500-seat concert venue and a stateof-the-art event center that includes an expansive space unobstructed by columns.

Annapolis and its immediate area are rich in American history. The site of the Battle of Baltimore in 1814 — and the inspiration for Francis Scott Key’s “The Star Spangled Banner” — Fort McHenry National Monument is less than an hour from Annapolis and accessible from I-95, just off Exit 55. From there the site is clearly signposted. Excavations have been ongoing at the park’s active archaeology site since 1958. Visitors can enjoy viewing an impressive collection of artifacts amassed over the decades, housed within the on-site museum. Among the 30,000 items so far uncovered are personal objects ranging from leather shoes and buttons to accoutrements of war such as mortar fragments and cannonballs. Visitors can enjoy a wide range of dramatic nature settings within two hours of the city. Two of the best are Cascade Falls in Patapsco Valley State Park and Great Falls Park between Montgomery County, Md., and Fairfax County, Va. Located near the town of Elkridge, Cascade Falls includes a 2.4mile loop trail with year-round access. At Great Falls, the splashing waterfalls result from water from the Potomac River forcefully cascading through Mather Gorge. Visitors can hike to viewing points along established trails leading to the water from the Visitor Center. The area is especially attractive for birding enthusiasts, while specially designated cycling paths are available for more active outings.

or deal f i s i p Ap NOW ing, s i l o p , shopp nna g n A i e n i h T y’s d ic the cit g n i histor t a d g n i a v na tions ent op m n i a entert . seums u m d an sites JANUARY 2018

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9–5 | CAPE TOWN

Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

Erasmus, proves the perfect location for a power breakfast. Savor the famous mosbolletjie bread dotted with anise seed, along with a dish of poached eggs with Hollandaise sauce and artichoke hearts. Stay energized through the day’s events with a fresh-squeezed juice or Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk. Reserve a table at The Pot Luck Club in trendy Woodstock and impress your guests with the 360-degree views of the city. As one of South Africa’s most renowned chefs, Luke Dale-Roberts creates an ever-changing menu of Asianinspired small plates incorporating South African ingredients guaranteed to please. Choices could include crispy calamari with yuzu-compressed apples or smoked beef filet with black pepper and truffle café au lait sauce. Then pull out all the stops at dinner with white tablecloths and harbor views. Reserve a table on the covered terrace or within the polished interior of Baia Seafood Restaurant on the upper level of the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. The menu reflects the culinary imprint of Portuguese explorers on the cuisine of Cape Town, while the wine list offers several rare vintages. Sample spicy prawns in a mild curry sauce from the former colony of Mozambique; meat lovers might opt for the filet mignon basted with chili and lemon. The V&A Waterfront also makes an ideal neighborhood

for unwinding. The property, spanning more than two acres, houses a marina; shopping mall; and the multistory V&A Food Market, with a vast selection of gourmet vendors. The Watershed, with more than 150 local craft and design tenants, offers the best place to buy souvenirs for friends and family back home, while the recent opening of the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa garners plenty of buzz as the largest museum to open on the continent in more than 100 years. Also let off some steam with a cable car ride to the top of Table Mountain, where the sweeping view from 3,558 feet puts Cape Town’s remarkable setting in perspective. While admiring the city skyline against Table Bay and peeking at the beaches on the other side of Lion’s Head, the city’s other famous mountain, you’ll finally understand why the Dutch East India Company established a settlement in this protected area near the southernmost point in Africa back in 1652. Remember to leave some time to experience the Mother City’s legendary nightlife. New York and African influences combine at The Piano Bar, a popular music revue bar in De Waterkant that serves cocktails, craft beers and wine. Then slide into a turquoise-colored booth at The Willaston Bar on the sixth floor of the new Silo Hotel and sip some of Cape Town’s newest local gins while enjoying the twinkling lights of this singular city.

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IMPRESS YOUR GUESTS:

Victoria & Alfred Waterfront and Table Mountain (left), and The Pot Luck Club (right) PHOTO: © HONGQI ZHANG (AKA MICHAEL ZHANG) | DREAMSTIME, © THE POT LUCK CLUB

Town Cape l ationa Intern t Airpor d its marke t year busies 6 n 201 ever i an ore th m h t i w llion 10 mi gers. passen

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after 5 | PARIS

Paris Sizzles The city’s neighborhoods hum with dusk-to-dawn enchantment. BY ALLIE MOORE REFLECTIONS OF FLICKERING lights in the sparkling River Seine, glowing sidewalks illuminated by 19th-century street lamps, and the romantic ringing of the bells of Notre-Dame from the central Île de la Cité: It’s no wonder Paris is considered the City of Lights, especially after work hours. The hardest part about a night out in the French capital is deciding where to spend your hours of enchanting night light. Each of the city’s neighborhoods, or arrondissements, carves out its own slice of divinity from sunset until dawn. Begin in the 1st and 2nd arrondissements for a spot of open-air stall shopping along Rue Montorgueil, with stops to taste local cheeses and a pick-me-up cup of café au lait at one of the sidewalk restaurants. If the weather isn’t cooperating, opt for indoor shopping at La Galerie Vivienne in the 2nd. Browse home furnishings, fashion and gifts, and even get your hair done in this well-lit architectural marvel that feels like a page out of the Versailles guidebook. Walk two blocks to Frenchie, an apropos wine bar with small-plate pairings such as Mont-Saint-Michel cockles with ginger and lime or Kintoa pig backbone. What’s a late afternoon in Paris without a succulent hour (or four) at a sidewalk café? At the deliciously decorated Du Pain et Des Idées, snack on luscious croissants or an escargot — bread coiled into a snail shape, topped with raisins and then baked — made by one of the city’s best boulangers. Arguably, the Parisian café experience isn’t about where you go but more about the ambience. Thus any café nestled in the Jardin des Tuileries or Jardin du Luxembourg will satisfy this cultural craving. As the sun falls, venture to the 10th for an evening of live music at the New Morning Jazz Club, where there’s more than just jazz on the roster, or hop next door to Rue Oberkampf in the 11th, a neighborhood alive until the wee hours of the matin. Arrive early to secure a table at the no-reservations, no-menu restaurant from Top Chef France contestant Pierre Sang, followed by a night of darkness and dancing at Balajo on Rue de Lappe. Round out the night with some bar or club hopping in the gay-friendly Marais district, where The Labo happy hour lasts until 11 p.m., and Le Tango hosts everything from cabarets to drag shows. Bonne nuit!

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NIGHT OUT:

Galerie Vivienne (top), Pierre Sang in Oberkampf (middle), and a traditional French café (bottom) PHOTOS: © KOVALENKOV PETR | DREAMSTIME, © NICOLAS VILLION, © KOVALENKOV PETR | DREAMSTIME

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television, but French (at least in the city) is the de facto language in social settings, while Luxembourgish, a linguistic mix of French and German, is spoken at home. English is taught in schools starting at age 14, and you’ll even hear a fair bit of Spanish and Dutch (those are your tourists), so many Luxembourgers learn those languages, as well. This international flair juxtaposes with a strong national identity that historically refused to be swallowed up by The firsT Thing To impress any traveler to the City of Luxembourg is Germany and recently declined to make citizenship easier the history, so much so that locals joke a 15th-century building is practically by lessening the Luxembourgish language requirement. It modern. Indeed, this highly internationmay be a small country, but it is very al city where foreign nationals account much its own country. Walking the cobblestone streets of for nearly two-thirds of the population Business travelers visiting the grund after an evening rain feels has as much to offer a Europhile traveler convention center find they’re not as any other more-traveled destination attending just another large event practically Parisian, except you’ll be on the continent. space. Luxembourg does business at hard-pressed to spot the tourists. Walking the cobblestone streets of the European Convention Center Grund after an evening rain feels pracLuxembourg in the Kirchberg neightically Parisian, except you’ll be hard-pressed to spot the tourists. Of course, borhood overlooking the historic city. The Meliá Luxemit doesn’t hurt that French is one of the country’s three national languages. bourg hotel sits right next to the convention center, making Luxembourgers start off learning to write German, and they watch German it an easy choice for visitors on business. Another option is

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neighborhoods | BUCHAREST

PICTURESQUE PLACES: Cișmigiu Park (top), and Palace of the Parliament (bottom) PHOTOS © RAZVAN DINICA | DREAMSTIME, © DATSENKO MARINA | DREAMSTIME

The Great Outdoors Spend a day in the open air exploring Bucharest’s parks. BY BRANDON SCHULTZ Ukraine

BUCHAREST IS A CITY BEST EXPLORED outdoors. Legendarily founded by a shepherd, it’s no surprise its parks list among its top attractions, and the most notable of them are found not far from each other, nestled around the city center. Herăstrău Park is home not just to a small boating lake, sculptures and a tranquil Japanese garden but also to Bucharest’s most impressive and engaging attraction, The Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum. An open-air museum spanning 25 acres, the grounds contain 272 traditional homes from rural regions around Romania, transplanted to this massive village and festooned with authentic furniture, tools and handiwork. Visitors can easily spend a full day wandering the grounds and exploring the quirky buildings. Keep an eye out for the mysterious underground houses, built mostly below surface level with straw roofs stacked above, designed to protect the homes from the elements, keep them cool in the warm months and possibly make them less noticeable to unwelcome travelers. Just south of Herăstrău Park, and a five-minute walk from the National Museum of Art of Romania, lies the 40-acre

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Cişmigiu Park, sometimes called Cişmigiu Gardens. With formal gardens surrounding an artificial lake, the park contains several notable landmarks including the Monument of American Heroes; the Monument of French Heroes; and the Romanian Round, a circular walk of busts commemorating 12 of the nation’s best-known writers. With boaters rowing romantically under picturesque bridges, flower carpets spreading across endless lawns, and white peacocks and black swans roaming about, Cişmigiu Park offers a perfect base from which to explore the surrounding museums and monuments or just to spend an afternoon unwinding in tranquility. Farther south stands the impressive Palace of the Parliament, holding mind-boggling records as the world’s largest administrative building and the heaviest building on the planet — so heavy it sinks about a quarter of an inch into the ground each year. Despite housing Romania’s government, three museums and a conference center, nearly 70 percent of the 3.93 million-square-foot behemoth remains empty. Empty or full, this powerful symbol of Romania’s Communist era cannot — and should not — be overlooked.

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friends & family | ANKARA

Land of Legends Immerse in Ankara’s authentic traditions and modern ambience. BY SHARON KING HOGE OLD TOWN:

ed was nam Ankara pital kish ca the Tur of because in 1923 ote and its rem . location central

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THE LAND OF WHIRLING DERVISHES, the Trojan horse, the underground cities of Cappadocia and the charismatic founding statesman Kemal Atatürk, Turkey is rich in culture and lore. While İstanbul, lively and cosmopolitan, straddles Asia and Europe, it is Ankara that embodies a sense of the country’s ancient and modern history. Turkey’s second-largest city offers a range of opportunities for you and your traveling companions to immerse in authentic lore: the State Opera and Ballet; the Presidential Symphony Orchestra; and

JANUARY 2018

an array of museums focused on topics from artillery and aviation to meteorology and land surveying, postal services and telecommunications. But three specific attractions present a real sense of Turkish tradition: the Old Town clustered around the ancient Citadel, the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, and the enormous hilltop Anıt Kabir mausoleum of the country’s larger-than-life founder, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. While modern office buildings and trendy boutiques and cafés prosper in the Çanikaya and Kavaklidere districts, sightseers can head toward Ulus, the older part of the city. Dating back to the seventh-century Byzantine age and overbuilt on 3,000-year-old Hittite ruins, the imposing pentagon-shaped Citadel (Hisar) serves as an ongoing symbol of the town. Incorporated into its inner and outer rampart walls, stones with traces of Greek and Roman script indicate the fortification may have been built in haste

INFO TO GO

A high-speed railway connects Ankara to İstanbul in around three hours. Infrequent international flights arrive at Ankara Esenboğa International Airport, renovated in 2007 and located 17 miles northeast of downtown, with shuttles transporting arriving passengers into the city center. Two subway lines cross the city at right angles, and much of the town is easily walkable.

ANCIENT HISTORY:

LODGING ANGORA HOUSE HOTEL Six rooms with carved wooden ceilings, fine linens and attentive service provide charm in this restored 200-year-old traditional Ottoman house in a convenient location at the foot of the Citadel walls. Kale Mahallesi, Kale Kapısı Sokak 16 $$

10 centuries ago to protect the city against Arab invaders. Entering through the Finger Gate (Parmak Kapısı) and heading straight ahead toward the center, up a steep slope you come upon the Eastern Tower (Şark Kulesi). Climb this newly restored favorite spot for kite flyers to get panoramic views. Nearby Alâeddin Camii is the city’s oldest mosque, with an attractive arched exterior. Within the ramparts lies the picturesque Old Town (Haamonii) of winding cobbled streets. While gentrification gradually supplants its ramshackle charm, the neighborhood retains the atmosphere of a traditional Turkish village, with women sorting skeins of wool and patrons sipping coffee at streetside cafés. Elaborate Ottoman mansions have been converted into restaurants, coffee shops and boutiques. In Art Street, shoppers can browse at the handicrafts market where local women sell rough leather handbags, colorful crocheted blankets, vivid patterned carpets and elaborately embroidered handkerchiefs. You can visit the interior of one of the typical houses; the home of famous Turkish poet Mehmet Akif Ersoy, located not far from his statue stationed in the middle of the central square, has been converted to a museum and archives. Also nearby, in a restored 15th-century covered market, or bedesten, stands the acclaimed Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. Exhibits displayed in chronological order and with English captions trace the history of every major civilization that played out in this region, such as Paleolithic bone fragments and primitive stone tools, Neolithic mother goddess statues, Hittite stag sculptures and Roman coins. The remains of a 9.8 million-year-old monkey discovered here — named Ankarapithecus after the city — testify to the

region’s importance since prehistoric times. In contrast to the ancient artifacts, an imposing mausoleum honors the “Father of the Motherland,” the country’s iconic founder. Kemal Atatürk first rose to prominence during the War of Independence. After organizing resistance and winning battles that expelled Greek forces, the charismatic hero of Gallipoli emerged to create a Turkish nation. Assuming the name Atatürk, meaning “Father Turk,” he set about introducing reforms and creating a modern state. Ankara, at the time a dusty village on the steppes, occupied a secure location. After declaring it the capital, Atatürk developed it into an urban showcase intended to impress the rest of the world. A center of universities and foreign embassies, the city was constructed in the Fascist monumental, symmetrical, cut-stone architectural style exemplified in his colossal memorial, built from 1944 to 1953 and considered the ultimate monument of the era. Anıt Kabir sits on a hill within a park planted with trees and flowers donated by countries from around the world. Visitors approach via Lion Road, an 860-foot-long marble promenade lined on both sides with 12 pairs of lions carved in the Hittite style, symbolizing power and peace. The massive Ceremonial Plaza can accommodate 15,000 people on a multicolored travertine marble floor depicting Turkish rug designs. Columns frame steps leading up to the marble tomb, and each of 10 symmetrically arranged towers represents an ideal that influences the nation: independence, peace, victory, reform and the like. Inside the monument, a museum chronicles the emergence of the Republic and illuminates Atatürk’s life. A section on the 1919–1922 War of Independence contains

DIVAN ÇUKURHAN HOTEL An overarching glass roof encloses the grand central lobby of this 5-star boutique hotel offering individually decorated rooms in a restored 16thcentury kevansaray opposite the main entrance to the Citadel. Tarihi Ankara Kalesi, Necatibey Mahallesi Depo Sokak 3 $$ RIXOS GRAND ANKARA HOTEL Locals consider this refined modern hotel with spa, swimming pool, restaurants and convention facilities a must for travelers seeking luxury. Kavaklıdere Mahallesi, Atatürk Blvd.183 $$$

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TRADITIONS:

Turkish chestnuts, soldiers marching in the changing of the guard ceremony at Anıt Kabir, and İskender

DINING

KINACIZADE KONAĞI Atatürk himself is said to have stopped by this typical Ottoman house before it became a restaurant serving typical kebaps and savory stuffed crêpes which can be topped off with honey walnut gözleme.

Kale Mahallesi, Kale Kapısı Sokak 28 $$$ ULUDAĞ KEBAPÇISI A staircase encircles the multilevel dining rooms where diners seated beneath blue light fixtures sample quintessential İskender kebap in this half-century-old traditional restaurant. Denizciler Cadessi 54, Ulus $$$ ZENGER PAŞA KONAĞI Rustic décor and panoramic city views add atmosphere in this restored 18thcentury mansion serving traditional dishes, with dancing to live Turkish music. Kale Mahallesi, Doyran Sokak 13 $$$

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weapons, documents and panoramic views of the battlefields with three 100-foot-wide wallsized dioramas depicting significant battles. The three-dimensional pictures of flaming fortifications, exploded tanks, barbed-wire barriers and wounded soldiers are enhanced with dramatic sound effects of screams and cannons firing. You’ll find various aspects of Atatürk’s life and legacy depicted in a series of niches. Along with official treaties and documents, you can view a large collection of Atatürk memorabilia and paraphernalia including his tuxedo, rowing machine and Cadillac car, plus jewel-encrusted swords and gifts from fellow statesmen. A gift shop at the exit sells Atatürk key chains, paperweights, daggers and copies of his books. Turks retain a strong reverence

for Atatürk, and as many as a million people a day file through the monument to express their respect. Every hour on the hour in the main courtyard, visitors crowd around to view an elaborate changing of the guard. Soldiers decked out in metal helmets and military uniforms colorfully wield their rifles in precision maneuvers. Cuisine remains an essential facet of the Turkish experience, and Ankara’s Old Town area is rich in restaurants offering local dishes. Kebap skewers are a regional specialty, in particular the popular İskender — chunks of lamb on crumbled bread topped with yogurt, hot tomato sauce and browned butter. High-proof, anise-flavored raki may accompany meals, and candied chestnuts (kestane sekeri) are popular sweets.

bucket list | ALASKA

Close Encounters Come face to face with Alaska’s bears in their natural habitat. BY RICHARD NEWTON

INTO THE WILD: (Left to right) Kayak paddling on Mendenhall Glacier Lake, grizzly cubs and floatplanes in Katmai National Park, Alaska brown bear viewing at Hallo Bay, and grizzly bear fishing for salmon at Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park PHOTOS: © LAWRENCE WESLOWSKI JR | DREAMSTIME, © OKSANAPHOTO | DREAMSTIME, © LAWRENCE WESLOWSKI JR | DREAMSTIME, © OKSANAPHOTO | DREAMSTIME

TO SEE BEARS IN ALASKA YOU’LL need to go deep into the wilderness, right? That’s what I thought. I packed my rugged outdoor gear and headed north. It was mid-September, one of the best viewing times. The bears would be fattening up ahead of winter hibernation by catching salmon in the rivers and feasting on wild berries. I’d flown first to the state capital, Juneau, which sits in the panhandle of Southeast Alaska, a fractured coastline of spruce-covered islands and sheltered channels quite distinct from the main bulk of the state. I was here to kayak across the frigid lake at the foot of Mendenhall Glacier — a bucket-list experience in itself — before heading up to the national parks on my bear quest. Tourists must feed, too. After dark, following an exhilarating day out on the water, I left my accommodation at the downtown Driftwood Hotel in search of somewhere to eat. I was relaxed; my guard was down. Turning into South Franklin Street, the main drag of

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bars and souvenir shops, a passerby called out to me: “Turn around, friend. There’s bears that way.” Sure enough, a block down the street, a female black bear and her two cubs were rummaging through an overturned dumpster. People peered out of doorways and windows. Camera flashes lit up the scene. This wasn’t how I’d pictured my first bear encounter. From locals I discovered it was nothing unusual for Juneau. The city backs onto forested mountains, prime black bear habitat. The bears living closest to the city have become habituated and are often seen on the streets or in backyards, scavenging through overturned trashcans. Black bears are the smallest of Alaska’s three bear species and are the species most likely to be seen in and around the towns and cities. The most difficult species to see is also the largest, the polar bear. For the chance of a sighting you need to head to the extreme north of the state, well within the Arctic Circle. The Northern Alaska Tour Co. runs regular

INFO TO GO

You can fly from the Lower 48 to Juneau (JNU), Anchorage (ANC) or Fairbanks (FAI). Access to most of the state is by chartered bush plane or floatplane. Several local companies offer dedicated fly-in bear-watching tours in and around the main national parks.

guided expeditions, departing Fairbanks and flying by light aircraft to the tiny island settlement of Kaktovik within the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. Polar bears are notoriously dangerous and should never be approached on foot. Here, viewing is by boat, supervised by certified guides. Unlike other bears, polar bears don’t hibernate. They usually congregate along the shore of the Beaufort Sea in August and September, waiting for the sea to ice over. Then they head out, usually alone, for long winter months stalking seals and other prey on the sea ice. The viewing tours from Kaktovik, which aren’t cheap (expect to pay $1,800 for a day tour from Fairbanks), provide an exceptionally rare opportunity to see these fearsome predators up close. The third bear species in Alaska, the brown (or grizzly) bear, is almost a match for the polar bear in size but is different in temperament. Unlike the carnivorous polar bears, grizzlies are omnivores; that is, they eat plants as well as meat. Unless food is exceptionally scarce, they are extremely unlikely to hunt humans. I kept that knowledge foremost in my mind when, a few days after my Juneau encounter, I stood beside a lake in Katmai National Park with a large male grizzly walking directly toward me.

To arrive at my face-off with the giant bear, I had flown first to Kodiak Island and from there by floatplane across to Katmai on the mainland. (Kingfisher Aviation is one of the companies currently offering fly-in bear-watching tours.) We saw our first bears from the air; below us, a mother and cub strode nonchalantly across the mudflats of Hallo Bay. Then we set down on the lake and drifted to the sandy shore. I leapt from the float to dry land, preparing for a short hike to a nearby salmon run where several bears congregated. Almost at once I sighted an approaching male. The pilot and my traveling companion were still on the plane. “Stand your ground,” was the message I repeated to myself on a loop. It’s one of the fundamentals of safe grizzly viewing. Never, ever run. Always stand firm. Within 30 feet the bear slowed, sniffed the air and then detoured around me. In common with many bucket-list experiences, the moment itself isn’t much fun. I was terrified. Somehow, amid it all, I managed to snap a few photos. As the bear ambled off the beach into the bush, relief surged through me, coupled with the knowledge I would have a treasured memory for life. That’s what bucket lists are all about.

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kicking back | KRABI

Carefree in Krabi Explore one of Thailand’s most beautiful destinations. BY KRISTY ALPERT

FEAST FOR THE SENSES:

(Left to right) Buddha statue at Tiger Cave Temple, Railay Beach, food stall at Krabi Night Market, and Tham Sua (Tiger Cave) Temple PHOTOS: © GREANGGRAI HOMMALAI | DREAMSTIME, © TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND, © ASIANTRAVELER | DREAMSTIME, © TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND

A BEAD OF SWEAT BEGAN TO FORM on my forehead, the sun warming its way across my exposed shoulders while I pedaled the last uphill stretch of that solitary paved road. I smiled and waved as I passed a woman with a jovial grin wearing a traditional palm woven hat and debated stopping to purchase one of the fresh coconuts she was selling from her pieced-together bamboo stand. I was on a borrowed bicycle from the Phulay Bay, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve resort where I was staying, and was off on an adventure inspired by my villa butler’s recommendation for his absolute favorite thing to do in Krabi. Had he not described it to me with such a giddy smile and a clandestine chuckle, I may have just nodded politely and gone about my plan of spending the next few hours balancing my time between lounging on the beach and swimming in the velvety soft waters of the Andaman Sea. But his childlike enthusiasm as he explained his little secret inspired my adventure, and I was out to see what made this native Thai man so giggly

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with excitement. I sped up as I neared the top of the hill and, just as instructed, took my feet off the pedals at the exact moment my tires began to slope downward. I extended my legs out as far as they would stretch and let gravity pull my two wheels down the hill toward the beach below. Not a soul was in sight as I flew faster and faster down the pathway, the wind swift and the speed making my heart race with excitement. I hadn’t felt this carefree in far too long, and soon I was wearing the blissful grin of someone who has been let in on the secret of kicking back in Krabi. Thailand’s southern province of Krabi is often regarded as one of the most beautiful destinations in the country, its sandy shorelines acting as the backdrop for many cinematic moments in some of the most celebrated films of all time. Although it lies just across the Bay of Phang Nga to the east of Phuket, Krabi feels worlds away from its more touristy neighbor. The area has only been lightly touched by tourism, so you’re likely to still see local fishermen toting home nets of fresh catches after fishing the waters of Ao Thalane Bay or see school-aged children splashing in the shallows along the secret shores of Laem Jamuk Khwai. Even though the area seems only lightly inhabited, the province is home to one of the oldest continual settlements

in all of Thailand, where ancient cave paintings deck the walls inside Tham Phi Hua To and other northern caves. Krabi boasts a unique geographical makeup of more than 130 large and small islands rising up sharply from the water and peering out over a decidedly mountainous mainland that opens up into highlands and plains throughout the province. More than 100 miles of coastline stretch through Krabi, many belonging to Hat Noppharat Thara-Ko Phi Phi National Park, where you’re more likely to find wooden longtail boats wedged deep within powdery piles of sand than concession stands. Like the rest of Southern Thailand, Krabi operates two main seasons — the rainy season and the dry season. Although the rains cease from November through April and then pick up again from May through September, the temperatures remain constant throughout the year, averaging a high of 86 degrees Fahrenheit and a low of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Despite the temperamental seasons, shops remain open year-round; visitors can shop alongside locals for authentic Thai dishes, handicrafts and souvenirs at one of Thailand’s best night markets

along Walking Street in Krabi Town. Krabi Town isn’t necessarily the top choice for finding a hotel, but it’s home to a few of the province’s most iconic temples, and it’s definitely worth a hike through the dense forest to arrive at the stunning Wat Tham Sua (Tiger Cave Temple). The temple was built into the base of a karst cliff among soaring vegetation, and from there active visitors can gain an even better perspective of the region by climbing the 1,237 steps that rise just beyond the temple to the Buddhist shrine at the top of the mountain. On your way out of town, make sure to stop in at Wat Kaew Korawaram to check out what many refer to as the “wedding cake temple” for its uncanny resemblance to an ornate white wedding cake. The region’s top accommodations lie along the coast, where gems like the Dusit Thani Krabi Beach Resort and the Amari Vogue Krabi offer private beachfront access to their guests. The Phulay Bay, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve, is in a class of its own with its immersive experiences, exclusive excursions and 54 luxuriously secluded villas, each manned by a personal butler. The resort’s prime location along

LODGING

AMARI VOGUE KRABI The Lanna architecture sets the tone for a unique stay at this 57-room boutique hotel. Tubkaak Beach $$$ DUSIT THANI KRABI BEACH RESORT This 240-room resort is ideal for family and business travel, with direct access to Klong Muang Beach. 115 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Muang $$$ PHULAY BAY, A RITZ CARLTON RESERVE The 54 villas at this luxury resort all feature a 13-foot-long bed as well as private plunge pools, personal butler service and other highend touches. 111 Moo 3, Nongthalay, Muang $$$$$

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DINING

THE FROG AND CATFISH Local recipes and fresh ingredients make this authentic Thai restaurant stand out. Din Daeng, Nong Thale $$ JENNA’S BISTRO & WINE This cozy bistro serves up traditional Thai dishes with a distinctive French flair. 328/3 Moo 2, Ao Nang $$ KHAOTHONG TERRACE RESTAURANT The view from this beautiful restaurant is topped only by its sumptuously spicy dishes and fresh seafood. 135 Moo 2, Khao Thong $$

rabi’s out K Check craft oning e g r u b Hobby ne at e c s w bre Beer Craft Hops r list he bee T . r a B funky from s e g n ra local ts to impor nd it ons, a i t a b i l light offers daily s and snack o pair izers t appet ws. he bre t h t i w

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Phulay Bay makes it ideal for daytrips like cruising on a longtail boat, sea canoeing through the mangrove forest or taking a private yacht out to Phi Phi Island to swim in the lagoon at Phi Phi Le and snorkel at Monkey Beach and Maya Bay. Consider two favored excursions at the resort: a private trip out to James Bond Island with John Gray Sea Canoe, and a journey out to Shark Point to snap a few underwater pictures with Thailand’s famous leopard sharks before returning for a private picnic on the uninhabited island. The resort’s restaurants range from authentic Southern Thai cuisine served familystyle at Sri Trang to fresh seafood served under the stars at Lae Lay to the coveted seats at the Chef ’s Table inside the Mediterranean-inspired restaurant Jampoon. Most of the cuisine in Southern Thailand tends to focus around what is found locally, so fresh seafood, coconuts and fiery spices often

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dominate the menu. Don’t be afraid to ask for dishes prepared “European spicy” unless you’re ready for the kick many of these local dishes offer. Kaeng tai pla is the region’s signature dish of fish stomach served as a spicy coconut curry alongside jasmine rice, and you’ll find the best versions at The Frog and Catfish and Khaothong Terrace Restaurant, although Jenna’s Bistro & Wine serves up an amazing version using duck and red curry in place of the regional staples. Getting around on land is relatively easy, and many of the resorts like the Phulay Bay offer complimentary bicycles for guests to use. More daring visitors can opt to rent a motorbike, although the easiest (and safest) way to get around is by a local taxi known as a songthaew. Offshore, the waters are full of longtail boats and charter boats that offer tours of the caves and islands as well as transportation to and from the nearby airports.

VERTICAL INTRIGUE: James Bond Island

INFO TO GO

The nearest airport, Krabi International Airport, operates multiple domestic flights per day from Bangkok (BKK), Chiang Mai (CNX) and Koh Samui (USM). International flights from Singapore (SIN), Shanghai (PVG), Kuala Lumpur (KUL) and Jinan (TNA) are also available. Many resorts offer complimentary shuttles to and from the airport.

ÂŠ2017 St. Regis Hotels & Resorts

7:15 am

arrive by private seaplane

7:30 am

luggage whisked away and unpacked by butler

9:30 am

breakfast on private terrace overlooking Indian Ocean

11:45 am

long nap in overwater hammock

1:00 pm

quick dip in private infinity pool

2:30 pm

late lunch at Alba

4:30 pm

custom Maldivian Halfa at Iridium Spa

6:00 pm

sunset sail on Azimut 66 yacht

8:30pm

champagne cocktail at open-air Whale Bar

9:15pm

tropical Midnight Supper under the stars

11:30pm

ring butler to draw warm bubble bath The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort

Live Exquisite. A day at St. Regis Hotels & Resorts. Celebrate the essence of St. Regis at more than 40 of the finest addresses around the world. Join us at stregis.com.

lgbtq

FESTIVE PHILLY:

Fabulous Philly

travelers to stay a while, as highlighted in the LGBT travel section on the Visit Philadelphia tourism website. “It’s the perfect place to learn some gay history during the day — like how gay protests started here four years before Stonewall in New York — and then unwind and relax at night with friendly community members,” Wilcha said. Gay-friendly diversions abound in the City of His top advice for first-time visitors: “Come hungry and rested! There’s so much Brotherly Love. BY MARK CHESNUT to do here, so much to learn and so many neighborhoods to visit that you’ll want to make sure you have plenty of energy. Refueling will be part of the fun, as our WILLIAM PENN, WHO FOUNDED and named restaurant scene is second to none.” Around the main gay neighborhood, Midtown Pennsylvania’s largest city, certainly didn’t realize one day Village, cuisine ranges from Japanese at the casually sleek Double Knot to classic people might consider its meaning — “brotherly love” — an Italian at Mercato — and, of course, legendary Philly cheesesteaks are easy to find. indication of the destination’s appeal for LGBTQ travelers. Night owls will find myriad offerings for dancing and socializing — including But today this diverse metropolis is firmly Woody’s, one of the city’s longest-running gay dance clubs, established as one of the most welcoming and Voyeur, an after-hours hot spot that attracts DJs from ‘Philadelphia is the City around the country. Top LGBTQ events include qFLIX large cities on the East Coast. “Philadelphia is the City of of Brotherly Love and Philadelphia, showcasing the work of international filmmakers every March, and PrideDay, the lively pride parade and Brotherly Love and Sisterly Affection,” Sisterly Affection.’ festival in June. said Zach Wilcha, executive director, ZACH WILCHA, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, Unique boutique-style properties are among the city’s Independence Business Alliance, also INDEPENDENCE BUSINESS ALLIANCE newest upscale hotel offerings. At the Lokal, for example, known as the Greater Philadelphia guests use automated check-in services and iPads to order serLGBT Chamber of Commerce. “We vices, while the Hotel at Wm. Mulherin’s Sons sits atop a fine-dining venue of the have a thriving Gayborhood, an LGBT-friendly city hall same name. Visitors craving large-scale luxury, meanwhile, can reserve a room at and spirited community that would make any LGBT The Ritz-Carlton, Philadelphia; The Rittenhouse (a member of the Leading Hotels traveler feel right at home.” of the World); or the Philadelphia Marriott, among others. Indeed, Philly offers plenty of reasons for LGBTQ

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airport update

Chi-Town Rundown Chicago’s airports gear up to meet increasing demand. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ THE STAKES ARE HIGH for Chicago’s airports to maintain their status as leading aviation hubs as passenger numbers rise, facilities age and competing airports expand. Located on the far northwest side of Chicago, 17 miles from the Loop, Chicago O’Hare International is among the top 10 busiest airports in the world, the third-busiest in the United States and the busiest in the Midwest. It’s also an international gateway to the region, serving 55 destinations around the world in addition to more than 150 domestic gateways. United Airlines and American Airlines feature as the biggest players at O’Hare. This year American will add flights to five destinations in the United States and Canada. Flights to Vancouver (YVR) and Charleston, S.C. (CHS) will begin May 4, and flights to Bangor, Maine (BGR); Myrtle Beach, S.C. (MYR); and Calgary, Alberta (YYC) will begin June 7. United will also add non-stop service this year from O’Hare with flights to El Paso, Texas (ELP), and Wilmington, N.C. (ILM), as well as seasonal service to Fresno, Calif. (FAT). As flights and passenger numbers grow quickly, the airport looks to accommodate with short- and long-term solutions. Chicago Mayor Rahm Emanuel seeks companies to design, build, finance, operate and maintain a high-speed O’Hare express train from downtown Chicago to O’Hare. The project was initially proposed in the early 1990s and more closely reviewed in early 2016. Chicago currently offers rail access to O’Hare via CTA’s Blue Line, but a high-speed line would cut travel times in half. Elon Musk also set his sights on Chicago, recently proposing a futuristic tunnel-based service using electromagnetic “sleds” capable of speeds up to 125 mph. Officials haven’t ruled out the innovative technology. In addition to train updates, Emanuel and aviation commissioner Ginger Evans outlined a multibillion-dollar plan to rebuild O’Hare’s aging Terminal 2 and add dozens of gates. Funding for the project would largely come from American and United, but both carriers announced plans to cut costs by 2021 and 2020, respectively, which could pose financial issues for O’Hare. Negotiations are ongoing, and the final decisions will weigh heavily on O’Hare’s status as a primary U.S. aviation hub — New York, Atlanta and Los Angeles are not far behind. In November city and county officials opened a 10-mile stretch of highway west of the airport, advancing a $3.4 billion infrastructure project promising to let drivers enter the airport from the west

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by 2022. This project will let people who live in DuPage and Kane counties more easily access the airport, reducing congestion on the east side. O’Hare isn’t the only Chicago airport with big changes in the pipeline. Chicago Midway International Airport lies about 10 miles closer to the Loop, a secondary but nonetheless crucial airport, serving some 22 million people per year. Last October the airport broke ground on a new security checkpoint and bridge expansion project. The new 80,000-square-foot pavilion will allow for additional security lanes, enhanced technology and a single checkpoint system, doubling screening capacity and increasing efficiency. Emanuel announced at the groundbreaking, “Over the next three years, we will transform Midway into a truly world-class airport at no cost to taxpayers, while creating hundreds of jobs right here in the community.” The kickoff of the security checkpoint marks the beginning of construction on the Midway Modernization Project — a $323 million investment. While both airports have big and expensive work to do in the future, their reputations are on their side. O’Hare was voted Best Airport in North America for 14 consecutive years by Global Traveler readers. O’Hare and Midway were recognized this year by Eno Center for Transportation as Best in the Nation for Flight Connectivity, and both airports were granted an ACI-NA Excellence in Airport Concessions Award for green concessions practices.

ON THE MOVE:

Travelers at Chicago O'Hare International Airport (left), and Concourse A at Midway (right) PHOTO: © ANTHONY ANEESE TOTAH JR | DREAMSTIME © MIDWAY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT CHICAGO MIDWAY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT flychicago.com

health

Breathe Freely Protect yourself against various forms of pneumonia. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN PNEUMONIA, AN INFECTION that inflames the air sacs of one or both lungs, affects millions of Americans each year. The air sacs, or alveoli, are where the oxygenation of the blood occurs. The alveoli may fill with fluid or pus, causing a cough with phlegm or pus. Pneumonia can range from mild to life-threatening and is most serious in infants, young children, people older than 65 and people with health problems or weakened immune systems. Bacteria, viruses and fungi can cause pneumonia. In adults, bacteria are the most common cause. Bacteria and viruses living in your nose, sinuses or mouth may spread to your lungs. You may breathe some of these germs directly into your lungs, or you may inhale food, vomit or fluids from the mouth into your lungs (aspiration pneumonia). The most common type of pneumonia-causing bacteria is Streptococcus pneumoniae (pneumococcus). Walking pneumonia, often called atypical pneumonia, is caused by other bacteria. The fungus Pneumocystis jiroveci can cause pneumonia in people whose immune systems are not working well, such as those with advanced HIV infection. Viruses such as the flu are also a common cause of pneumonia. Risk factors that increase your chances of getting pneumonia include chronic obstructive pulmonary disease; bronchiectasis; cystic fibrosis; dementia; stroke; brain injury; cerebral palsy or other brain disorders; and immune system problems due to cancer treatment, HIV/AIDS, organ transplant or other diseases. Other risk factors include serious illnesses such as heart disease, liver cirrhosis or diabetes mellitus; recent surgery or trauma; or surgery to treat cancer of the mouth, throat or neck. Smoking cigarettes, excessive use of alcohol or being undernourished also increases your risk of pneumonia. The most common symptoms of pneumonia

are cough (you may cough up greenish or yellow mucus or bloody mucus), mild or high fever, shaking chills and shortness of breath. The shortness of breath may only occur when you climb stairs or exert yourself. Other symptoms include confusion, especially in older people; excess sweating and clammy skin; headache; loss of appetite; low energy and fatigue; not feeling well; or sharp or stabbing chest pain that gets worse when you breathe deeply or cough. See your health care provider as soon as possible. Your provider will examine your lungs with a stethoscope, listening for decreased breath sounds and crackles in your lungs. A pulse oximetry will check your oxygen saturation on room air. You may have a chest X-ray, blood work such as a complete blood count and arterial blood gases, blood and sputum cultures to look for the organism causing the infection, a CT scan or a bronchoscopy to examine your lungs and take sputum samples. If the assessment points to early pneumonia, you will likely be told to force fluids and be placed on a broad-spectrum antibiotic, Mucinex or its generic form (600 mg two to three times a day) to assist in coughing up secretions, and mini nebulizer treatments every eight hours while at home. If your pneumonia has progressed, you may be hospitalized to be monitored closely. You may be placed on IV antibiotics, oxygen and breathing mini nebulizer treatments plus an incentive spirometer to help open your airways. If you are diagnosed with viral pneumonia, you may receive other medications, such as an antiviral if the cause is the flu. Antibiotics do not kill viruses. Get plenty of sleep. If you cannot sleep at night, take naps during the day. With treatment, most people improve in two weeks; recovery may take six weeks. Adults older than 65 or very sick individu-

als may take longer to recover. Possible complications of pneumonia include the need for a mechanical ventilator; bacteremia, in which the infection spreads into the blood; septic shock, an overwhelming infection attacking the body; lung abscess; other pulmonary problems such as respiratory failure, pleurisy or pleural effusion, in which fluid collects in the lungs; and kidney failure. You can prevent pneumonia by washing your hands or using alcohol-based sanitizers often, especially before preparing or eating food and after blowing your nose, going to the bathroom, changing a baby’s or adult’s diaper or coming in contact with people who are sick. Do not smoke. Tobacco damages your lungs’ ability to fight infections. Vaccines may prevent some types of pneumonia. The flu vaccine can help prevent pneumonia caused by the flu virus. The pneumococcal vaccine lowers your chances of getting pneumonia from Streptococcus pneumoniae and helps protect against some of the 90-plus types of pneumococcal bacteria. Vaccines are even more important for older adults and people with diabetes, asthma, emphysema, HIV, cancer, organ transplants and other chronic diseases and conditions. Get your children vaccinated with the child strength of pneumococcal, flu, pertussis and Hib vaccines. Haemophilus influenzae type b (Hib) is a bacterium that can cause pneumonia and meningitis. The vaccine is recommended in the United States for all children younger than 5 years of age. It is often given to infants starting at 2 months old. When infants are too young to be immunized, parents, family members, relatives and caregivers should be vaccinated. Keep yourself healthy: Limit your intake of alcohol, keep your immune system strong, get enough sleep, exercise regularly and eat a healthy diet.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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past & present

Turkish Airlines was established in 1933 as an arm of the Ministry of National Defense under the name State Airlines Administration, with just five aircraft. In 1947 the carrier flew its first international flight from Ankara to Athens. It became Turkish Airlines, Inc. in 1956 and continued to grow. In 2006 Turkish Airlines became a privately owned airline and in 2008 joined the world’s largest family of airlines, Star Alliance. With new aircraft scheduled for delivery in the upcoming years, Turkish Airlines expects the size of its fleet to reach more than 420.

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JANUARY 2018

Turkish Airlines

Wonderful moments await Whether it’s for business or leisure, traveling is always better when you get a great deal. So, we want to make sure you don’t miss out on the best rate—Your Rate—when booking directly with IHG.® This exclusive rate is available only to IHG® Rewards Club members, but what exactly does it mean to join? Simple, it means you get great rewards every time you stay.

To get the best rate, book directly at IHG.com/YourRate or on our mobile app.

*IHG® Rewards Club not applicable to Kimpton® Hotels & Restaurants; to be included at a future date.*IHG® Rewards Club not applicable to Kimpton® Hotels & Restaurants; to be included at a future date. ©2017 InterContinental Hotels Group. All rights reserved. Most hotels are independently owned and/or operated.

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