January 2020 Global Traveler

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MONUMENTAL MAGIC

Easter Island intrigues with its mysterious stone statues. p. 72

January 2020

CORNWALL p. 62 CURAÇAO p. 74 CUSCO p. 70 DOHA p.50 DURBAN p.64 FALKLAND ISLANDS p. 66 GHENT p.60 PITTSBURGH p. 56 SEOUL p. 58

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

NEW BEGINNINGS

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com

HAPPY NEW YEAR! WITH the first two decades of the millennium behind us in what has felt at times like the blink of an eye, it’s hard to believe we’re preparing for and planning travel for 2020 and beyond. I’m looking forward to the year ahead both personally and professionally, and I know at least one new destination on the itinerary for me this year: South Africa. In June my (soon-to-be) husband and I will embark on our honeymoon to the country for safari, adventure, relaxation and luxury. Which new places will you visit in 2020?

This is the time of year when we’re inundated with lists and rankings for the best places to visit in the New Year. For us at Global Traveler, we start that discussion in the middle of the previous year as we begin compiling our editorial calendar for the next year. Some new, different destinations you can expect in the pages of the magazine this year include Zanzibar, Tangier, Borneo, Seychelles, Sardinia, Madagascar, Bolivia, Kaohsiung, Montenegro, Vilnius, Cobh TRAVEL TEAM: and Sapporo.

Kimberly Krol with Carly Allen at DFW But, of course, that’s not all we have PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL in store for 2020. After a comprehensive, page-by-page review of the magazine in mid-2019, we’re debuting some regular changes to the lineup in this issue. What to expect? Our News section changed from three pages to two to make room for expansion in other areas. However, you can still get plenty of travel news and more every day on our websites — globaltravelerusa.com, trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com — and through our weekly e-newsletters (sign up on any of the websites). One area that’s expanding is our monthly Cruises column, which will now be two pages. Find all-new questions in our One on One interview section and our Chefs column. Our Tours column has been adapted into a destination article, now highlighting the types of tours available in one particular destination each issue. We’ve also moved our MICE article to the Destinations section, and one feature per month will focus on either airlines or hotels.

Our Health column shifted focus and is now dedicated to Medical Tourism, offering information on countries around the world specializing in overseas medical care and taking a closer look at specific types of medicine practiced worldwide. Our Airport Update will alternate monthly, either highlighting a specific airport or taking a look at airport trends like art and food.

We begin another year of worldwide travel in this issue with Ghent, Cornwall, Easter Island, Doha, the Falkland Islands, Curaçao, Seoul, Durban, Pittsburgh and Cusco.

Join us next month for our first Women’s Issue (another change for 2020!), featuring some of the travel industry’s prominent female executives. Until then, happy travel planning!

Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator MARY MELNICK mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

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WRITERS

DEBRA BOKUR J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED JACK GUY

RON BERNTHAL TERESA BITLER DEBRA BOKUR MARK CHESNUT KIM FOLEY MACKINNON ELYSE GLICKMAN TIM LEFFEL SHERYL NANCE-NASH RICHARD NEWTON MIQUEL ROS ts BRANDON SCHULTZ Durban boas

ete For compl t bios, visi m elerusa.co globaltrav

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

t Indian the larges outside population e Learn mor of India. ban on ur D t ou ab page 64.

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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letter from the publisher ® ®

HAPPY NEW YEAR! AS WE MOVE INTO 2020, we prepare for an exciting year that includes the May 14 presentation of the Leisure Lifestyle Awards at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills. These awards complement the GT Tested Reader Survey awards we just celebrated Dec. 11 at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. The Leisure Lifestyle Awards include the Special Achievement Awards; nominations for the four categories follow.

Outstanding Social Responsibility — InterContinental Hotels Group, IHG Academy; Kimpton Hotels, Kimpton Cares; Omni Hotels & Resorts, Community Involvement; Preferred Hotels, GIIFTS/Clean the World; The Ritz-Carlton, volunteer program and continued commitment to serve the community; Tauck Tours giving back program; and United Airlines, Miles on a Mission

SAND MAN:

Francis dune bashing in Doha PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Outstanding Customized Service — Abercrombie & Kent, specialized touring packages; Air Canada, familycentric programs and Air Canada Concierge Services; Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, giving passengers personalized notes to make flying easier; Delta Air Lines, equipping flight attendants with mobile devices to offer high-level, one-to-one interaction with passengers; Four Seasons, unique offerings including Four Seasons Private Jet service; Lufthansa, Additional Services for seat selection, upgrades and other options; Tahiti Tourisme, unique and diverse experience packages from Animals in Tahiti to in-season surfing, and most overwater luxury bungalows; and Virgin Hotels, Lucy, a guest personal comfort assistant Outstanding Environmental Innovations — Air New Zealand, joint initiatives for Project Green and Fly Neutral; Hyatt Hotels, new initiatives to reduce single-use plastics; IHG, IHG Green Engage; JetBlue, renewable jet fuel purchase agreement; Lufthansa, Lufthansa Innovation Hub’s focus on CO2-neutral aviation fuels; Oceania, OceaniaNEXT initiative to reduce single-use plastics; SAS, initiatives to modernize its fleet and reduce CO2 emissions by 25 percent by 2030; and Tourism Authority of Thailand and Expedia, launching the UNESCO Sustainable Tourism Pledge Outstanding Innovations — Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, using fingerprint checks for passengers going through security; Japan Airlines, infant seat map tool, showing where children are seated; Marriott Bonvoy, Bonvoy app allowing hotel selection, mobile check-in, mobile key entry and other options; Princess Cruises, Medallion Class experience; Qatar Airways, QSuite business-class product at the first-class level; Rimowa Luggage, electronic tag suitcase and app allowing travelers to check bags; United Airlines, partnership with Timeshifters to help passengers beat jet lag; and Uniworld, #ExploreUniworld community, enabling potential travelers to preview Uniworld experiences through the eyes of current cruisers and crew Lastly, the nominations for Cruise Line of the Year are Celebrity Cruises, Disney Cruise Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Princess Cruises, Seabourn Cruise Line and Uniworld Boutique River Cruises.

Much to ponder! Look for the results in the May Leisure Lifestyle Edition.

In the meantime, enjoy your first-quarter travels!

FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

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Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales BILL LODZINSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | bill.lodzinski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 | stephanie.makowski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive CHRISTOPHER SAGER tel 267 364 5811 ext 204 | chris.sager@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive MARIANA ZENIZO tel: 52 55 6560 1152 | marzenizo@gmail.com Account Executive ANGELA PAGE tel 917 334 6572 angela.page@globaltravelerusa.com Production & Advertising Coordinator YASSER OGANDO tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

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Paul Gauguin Cruises was honored as the Best Small-Ship Cruise Line for the fourth consecutive year in Global Traveler’s seventh annual Leisure Lifestyle Awards and was named #1 Mid-Size Ship Ocean Cruise Line in the Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards readers’ survey. This is the third time in the past four years Paul Gauguin Cruises was ranked No. 1 in the category.

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The Gauguin features spacious oceanview suites and staterooms with nearly 70 percent of them featuring private balconies; gourmet dining in all venues, including menu specialties designed by celebrity chef Jean-Pierre Vigato; complimentary beverages including select wines and spirits, soft drinks, bottled water and hot beverages served throughout the ship; an in-cabin refrigerator replenished daily with soft drinks, beer and bottled water; shipboard entertainment; and all onboard gratuities included. In select ports, the ship’s watersports marina is available to launch a kayak or paddle board from and a PADI

certification scuba diving program is also offered.

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Experts in the fields of art, the culinary arts, music, magic, Polynesian life and culture, wine and the wonders of the deep offer insights, lectures, performances, demonstrations and workshops on select voyages of The Gauguin.

Through The Gauguin’s Moana Explorer program, offered in partnership with Te mana o te moana, a South Pacific marine education and conservation foundation, children and teens ages 7–15, are invited to discover and value the natural wonders of this breathtaking part of the world through hands-on, interactive learning on summer and December holiday voyages.

For more information or to make a reservation, contact your Travel Advisor, call 877-440-6114, or visit pgcruises.com/Global-Traveler.

contents

January 2020 50

PHOTOS: © THE RITZ-CARLTON, © JAPAN AIRLINES, © QATAR NATIONAL TOURISM COUNCIL

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FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

36 All in the Family Global Traveler celebrates the winners of the 2019 Wherever Awards.

50 Destination One: Doha Culture, authenticity and hospitality attract global visitors to Doha.

60 9–5: Ghent Don’t overlook Belgium’s convivial city for business and leisure.

44 Gearing Up Japan Airlines prepares for the Tokyo Olympics with new aircraft and cabin designs.

56 Stateside: Pittsburgh Pittsburgh turns to technology as a new economic force.

62 After 5: Cornwall Sip a local brew by the sea while day fades into night.

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

MONUMENTAL MAGIC

58 MICE: Seoul Create unique meetings and events infused with Korean culture and history.

Easter Island intrigues with its mysterious stone statues. p. 72

January 2020

CORNWALL p. 62 CURAÇAO p. 74 CUSCO p. 70 DOHA p.50 DURBAN p.64 FALKLAND ISLANDS p. 66 GHENT p.60 PITTSBURGH p. 56 SEOUL p. 58

COVER PHOTO: THE MOAI STATUES IN THE LARGEST AHU ON EASTER ISLAND, RAPA NUI, CHILE PHOTO: © LARRY PORTMANN - DREAMSTIME.COM

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36 JANUARY 2020

Wherever you go, miles follow.

Miles earned on any of the 13 oneworldÂŽ member airlines can be used across the entire alliance network of more than 1,100 destinations around the world.

Learn how you can travel bright at oneworld.com.

oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on oneworld, visit www.oneworld.com. American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld.

contents

January 2020

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LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

24 Technology 26 Wine & Spirits 27 Wealth 28 Spas 30 Golf 32 Chefs 34 Cruising 78 LGBTQ+ 81 Medical Tourism

10 Mail Call 14 News 16 Reviews 22 One on One AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay 80 Airport Update 82 Preview

64 Neighborhoods: Durban The Point Waterfront breathes new life into Durban.

66 Friends & Family: Falkland Islands Escape to the Falkland Islands for the ultimate wildlife adventure.

70 Tours: Cusco Delve into the Inca kingdom and Andean villages on a Peruvian immersion tour.

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JANUARY 2020

72 Bucket List: Easter Island Easter Island intrigues with its mysterious stone statues.

74 Kicking Back: Curaçao A trip to Curaçao transcends a day at the beach.

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2020 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © MARKETING MANCHESTER, © WALDORF ASTORIA LAS VEGAS, © SMARTECH, © BEN GOODE - DREAMSTIME.COM,

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mail call Q&A WITH ERICH MARTIN, ASSISTANT EDITOR

Q&A WITH MARY MELNICK, SOCIAL MEDIA & EDITORIAL

In our November issue, assistant editor Erich Martin discussed the myriad cruising options available for all levels of travelers and interests. This brought up the concept of themed cruises, which begged the question: Have you ever taken a themed cruise? A few readers wrote in with responses:

COORDINATOR

With the winter months rolling in, there are bound to be delays and flight cancellations at airports, leaving thousands of people stuck. I remember one of my flights being delayed for about five hours, and my brother and I just couldn’t figure out how to make the time pass.

How do you pass the time during a flight delay?

Yes, I’ve been on a Disney Cruise with friends and our kids; it doesn’t get much more themed than that.

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

JASON REEDS, via email We were on a Disney Cruise over Halloween, which was fun!

FAVORITE CITY FOR ART MUSEUMS In our Oct. 30 issue of eFlyer USA, we discussed the opening of a new art museum in Boston. This news inspired an avid reader and traveler to write in: My favorite is the Uffizi, Americana and Pitti Palace art museums in Florence. I also love both the Louvre in Paris, with Napoleon’s Coronation by Louis David, and [the] Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. I’m a big fan of Rembrandt.

GREGORY W. HAMILTON, via email

CORRECTION CORNER

AIRLINE WATER SAFETY

In our July 22 issue of eFlyer USA, we covered the then-recent news that Delta Air Lines would be eliminating sport equipment fees on flights. One reader had a recent experience with sporting equipment and wrote in with a correction:

In our Nov. 12 issue of eFlyer USA, we shared a recent report deeming airline water unsafe and of poor quality. A few readers wrote in:

Delta Air Lines did not kill the fee to fly your bike. The $150 each-way fee for a bicycle is still being charged. The carefully worded press release notes it is no longer charged on flights booked after the date of the press release. This was upsetting to find out when I went to check my bike case Oct. 17 on a flight from Minneapolis to Phoenix.

CINDY BRADEHOFT, via email

always travel with a water bottle, but I don’t always have time to fill up in the airport or find a clean water fountain. Really disappointing, but not shocking.

I only drink bottled water because I am aware airline water is not safe. I’m always angry American Airlines has about three to six large bottles per flight from JFK to LAX. Delta Air Lines used to offer the teeny bottles. As for coffee, I thought boiled water was safe; now, I’m doubtful.

ANGELA WEISS, via email

IRVINA LEW, via email

We’ve covered in several newsletters that hotel chains are opting to ditch small, single-use plastic toiletries in hotels and switching to bulk options to reduce waste (most recently Hyatt’s decision in

This is really obvious. Of course the water is stagnant and unclean, but it’s so convenient and a real shame for travelers. I

I thought everyone knew this!

Airline water is filthy. Don’t even drink the coffee if you can avoid it; the water doesn’t actually boil.

ROSS FARTHINGTON, via email

BACK ON THE TOILETRIES …

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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PHOTO: © MARY MELNICK

REBECCA ANTOF, via email

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MDW | Tabo Sushi

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Providing the best connections to life’s most important events with over 195 domestic destinations, over 80 international destinations and a wide array of choices with nearly 55 airlines serving Chicago airports.

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THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINE

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

PHOTO: © KITCHNER BAIN - DREAMSTIME.COM

Yes, I do think it is another step in saving our environment. However, I do have one question based on what I have seen at other chains so far. How are they going to secure these large containers from intrusion? In today’s everything-goes environment, it is only a matter of time until someone drops contaminants in the containers to harm an unsuspecting user. As a result, I have started to again carry my own miniature toiletries.

JOHN BAILY, via email It’s the best move these hotels can make. Such a waste! I take the small toiletries, too, love those little things, but I don’t need a restock every day.

I have long hair, so the bulk option works better for me, anyway.

RITA VENTON, via email I am going to miss these miniatures, but it makes sense. Much more eco-

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JANUARY 2020

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

www.globaltravelerusa.com

our Nov. 19 eFlyer USA). Readers have written in with their thoughts:

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

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Available for iPhone and iPad, the GT app lets you search archives, read the current issue, bookmark favorites and more. Download the GT appapp, today the With the new youfrom will be able to read G App Store.

JONATHAN LAGGERO, via email

globaltravelerusa.com

BEST AIRLINES TO FLY IN 2020 In our Dec. 3 issue of eFlyer USA, we announced a list of best airlines to fly in 2020, according to AirlineRatings.com. A few readers wrote in with opinions of their own: I love JetBlue. Every flight out of JFK is so easy and convenient.

ASHLEY WELLS, via email I know a lot of people who like Delta Air Lines, but I don’t get it, and its policy on pit bulls is a little dated.

ANTHONY MILLER, via email I’m so glad to see Air New Zealand on this list! It has the friendliest staff and really professional, efficient service.

Always a pleasure flying this carrier!

TODD JEFFRIS, via email

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WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from planning holiday travel to shopping the mercado in Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

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GT ’s independently run weekly travel email newsletter written for executive business travelers.

GT ’s independently run weekly travel email newsletter written for the Asian travel market.

globaltravelerusa.com

JANUARY 2020

booking.com gotogate.com

Norwegian-JetBlue Trans-Atlantic Venture

On the heels of JetBlue’s announcement of its intention to expand service across the Atlantic Ocean, the U.S. airline revealed it intended to partner with low-cost, long-haul carrier Norwegian Air to help drive this initiative.

If the partnership moves forward, the two airlines would begin their collaboration by the middle of this year, connecting existing JetBlue flights from 100 cities around the United States to hubs like New York, Boston and Fort Lauderdale, where Norwegian will then link travelers to more than 20 destinations in Europe.

The joint venture will help jumpstart JetBlue’s move toward trans-Atlantic expansion, as well as expose new customers to Norwegian’s low-cost fares in a period when the airline is struggling to sustain its low-cost, long-haul model. jetblue.com norwegian.com

PHOTOS: © HAROLD STIVER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © EUROPHOTOS - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ROMAN TIRASPOLSKY - DREAMSTIME.COM

CHANGES TO LAX GROUND TRANSPORTATION

Travelers who need a ride from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) no longer have the freedom to simply summon a cab, Uber or Lyft. As of October 2019 drivers of taxis, Ubers and Lyfts are forbidden from performing curbside pick-ups at the airport and instead must wait for riders at a designated pick-up point a shuttle ride away from the airport.

Upon landing, travelers who want to use these services must take a shuttle bus to this pick-up point, from which they can continue traveling to their destination. The pick-up point is part of an existing parking lot near Terminal 1.

This change comes from a Los Angeles World Airports initiative to reduce the amount of traffic around the arrivals hall, a horseshoe-shaped thoroughfare that does not allow cars to idle curbside.

This policy does not apply to drop-offs: Taxi, Uber and Lyft drivers can still drop off passengers at the curb of the departures hall.

Millions of travelers already turn to Booking.com to book hotel rooms, apartments, holiday homes or other lodgings for their next trip, but soon visitors to the site will also be able to browse and book flights as Booking.com sets its sights on becoming an all-inone booking engine.

Booking.com used to direct travelers to Kayak (a Booking.com partner) to book flights for their trips, but now users in eight European countries (Austria, Belgium, Germany, Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain and the United Kingdom) can book flights on up to 650 airlines to destinations all over the world through Booking.com. The process begins on Booking.com and then users are redirected to Gotogate to finish the reservation.

As of press time, Booking.com is slowly beginning to process flight reservations directly on its site via eTraveli, a Swedish online travel agency, but the majority of European users will be redirected to Gotogate to complete their reservation.

New Non-Stop Newark–New Zealand Service

Beginning in October, Air New Zealand (through its newly expanded partnership with United Airlines) will be the first and only airline to operate non-stop routes between the U.S. East Coast and New Zealand.

This fall Air New Zealand will offer thrice-weekly flights between Newark Liberty International Airport and Auckland Airport in New Zealand, with tickets already on sale.

The flight will last 17 hours and 40 minutes from Newark to New Zealand, and 15 hours and 40 minutes going in the opposite direction, operating on Boeing 787-9 Dreamliners.

According to Air New Zealand executives, the non-stop flight will decrease the overall transit time by nearly three hours. This new route joins Air New Zealand’s other non-stop, non-West Coast route to an American city, Chicago, launched in 2018. airnewzealand.com

PHOTOS: © ROMAN TIRASPOLSKY - DREAMSTIME.COM, © GORDON TIPENE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANDREI GABRIEL STANESCU - DREAMSTIME.COM

united.com

Emirates Becomes Chase Travel Partner

Chase’s most recent addition to its transfer partner network is Emirates Skywards, the rewards program from Emirates.

Holders of the Chase Sapphire Reserve, Chase Sapphire Preferred and other Chase cards can transfer their points to several travel partners through the Chase Ultimate Rewards portal, including 13 hotels and airlines. Late last year, Chase added Emirates as one of its partners, allowing cardholders to transfer points to the international airline at a ratio of 1:1.

Emirates Skywards miles extend to multiple airlines such as Qantas, Alaska Airlines, easyJet, Korean Air, Copa Airlines, Malaysia Airlines and Japan Airlines.

In order to transfer Chase points to Emirates, a Skywards account is required. Members can then click Transfer to Travel Partners through their Chase Ultimate Rewards account, where flight options with Emirates will be automatically generated. emirates.com chase.com

Delta Launches Subscription Service

Southwest Eliminates Points Expiration

In a move that may hint at the future of airline pricing models, Delta Air Lines introduced SkyMiles Select, a new subscription service for passengers that comes with special advantages and perks.

Members of the SkyMiles Select program will enjoy benefits such as boarding with Group 1, thus allowing earlier access to space in overhead bins; eight free drink vouchers (worth approximately $70); and a luggage tag for bags.

The annual fee for SkyMiles Select membership is $59.

While this isn’t the first subscription service from an airline — United Airlines offers a package for $599 per year that includes seats with extra legroom, and other airlines offer similar subscriptions for checked bags and in-flight WiFi — it may be a sign major airlines are open to testing such models for their frequent flyers as another revenue stream in the wake of rising fuel prices.

Last fall, Southwest Airlines rolled out a slew of changes to some of its benefits, from new annual point requirements for earning a Companion Pass to the removal of its expiration date for Rapid Rewards. The latter is clearly more enticing for members of Southwest’s Rapid Rewards program who scramble to use accrued points before they expire.

The program previously required rewards members to maintain an active account by either earning or redeeming points (or using points via one of the airline’s partners) once every 24 months, but as of Oct. 17, 2019, Rapid Rewards points no longer expire.

Southwest joins Delta, JetBlue and United with the removal of a points expiration date, while other major airlines maintain expiration dates, requiring activity on frequent-flyer accounts at least once every 12, 24 or 36 months, depending on the program.

delta.com

southwest.com

JANUARY 2020

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FOUR SEASONS TORONTO Reviewed by Stephanie Makowski

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Do not miss Café Boulud for a delicious French bistro experience for a quick or leisurely breakfast, lunch or dinner. You will get to sample the French influence, part of the Canadian culture. ◆ Need time to relax? Check out the spa with customizable options or take a dip in the pool year-round. ◆ The location in historic Yorkville makes it both convenient for meetings and also for taking in the sights nearby.

FOUR SEASONS TORONTO 60 Yorkville Ave. Toronto, Ontario M4W 0A4 Canada tel 416 964 0411 fourseasons.com

Guest Quarters: I was quite excited when I entered my superior room accommodations. The sprawling room with floor-to-ceiling windows was quite a treat to behold. The room, equipped with everything one may need for a home away from home, included a well-lit and spacious desk and a sofa and coffee table as a perfect spot to read a book or watch some television.

The bed, appointed with the iconic Four Seasons linens, tree monogram and all, set the tone for a luxurious slumber indeed. The marble bathroom had a large tub, shower and vanity. The Le Labo-New York toiletries had a great neutral aroma befitting anyone’s scent preferences. The bathroom’s in-mirror television made bathtime a multitasking time to catch up on the news of the day while soaking in bubbles. Post-bath, the Four Seasons robes and slippers proved both comfortable and functional. I slept well in the room and found it

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a rejuvenating space for either the leisure or business traveler.

Services/Amenities: While my short stay did not afford me time to enjoy all the services available at the Four Seasons Toronto, I did manage to walk around and take in the lay of the land to determine my top picks to experience upon my next visit. The full-service spa offers a calm oasis for any traveler; customizable services can be reserved at your convenience.

The property includes multiple dining options. I loved my experience at Café Boulud, a French restaurant with fresh cuisine for breakfast, lunch or dinner in a chic and lovely atmosphere. Room service is available as well as D|Bar, where an after-work cocktail awaits to help you relax and unwind. The pool and fitness facility are available for the health-conscious traveler. Should you be in town for meetings, the multilingual staff and concierge service can make sure your trip seals the deal. Toronto is a cultural hub and fascinating city for both business and leisure travel. Next time you are planning a visit, stop by Four Seasons Toronto. No matter the season, the superb service and quality of amenities prove the best reasons for a stay at this grand hotel.

PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS TORONTO

Arrival/Check-In: Director of sales Bill Lodzinski and I flew into Toronto Pearson International airport late Sunday evening and hopped in our rental car, headed to the Four Seasons Toronto. The drive takes only 30 to 40 minutes from the airport. This flagship hotel made quite the impression upon our arrival. The courteous valet quickly and efficiently took our rental car to be parked overnight as we checked in. Check-in was flawless, and the staff made sure to inform us of the amenities, schedule of services available — such as the spa and dining — and provided us with our keys. In the opulent lobby, the lovely chandeliers, high ceilings, portraits of celebrities and fashion pieces encased discretely made one feel the glamour expected while staying at a Four Seasons property.

GT tested

THE GATES HOTEL SOUTH BEACH – A DOUBLETREE BY HILTON Reviewed by Bill Lodzinski

PHOTOS: © THE GATES HOTEL SOUTH BEACH – A DOUBLETREE BY HILTON

Arrival/Check-In: Arriving way past midnight, we were still greeted by a friendly valet staff. The entrance was easy to access from the hustle and bustle of famous Collins Avenue. The Gates Hotel South Beach – a DoubleTree

by Hilton is an upscale hotel located in the heart of South Beach across the street from the Atlantic Ocean.

Convenient to all South Florida offers, the hotel sits only steps from Lincoln Road, Ocean Drive and South Beach’s best dining, shopping, nightlife and entertainment. The hotel is also convenient to the Biscayne Bay Marketplace, Bal Harbour and the Design District — all in a setting where luxury hotels mix with waterfront homes lining the canals that parallel the ocean. Valet parking was easy and convenient. Palm trees, bamboo and lush tropical vegetation lined the walkway to the hotel entrance on the side of the building; and vegetation, the landscape lights and the south Florida breeze created a nice ambience. The lobby offered the same sense of privacy and intimacy as the secluded yet inviting entrance. The eclectic décor added a touch of beachside bungalow, and it felt like home. The spacious lobby area included a casual bar on one side, billiard tables in the center and a casual lounging area on the other side. The front desk staff extended the same warm welcome we received when we drove in. It made a great end to a long day of travel.

Guest Quarters: My suite was on the ground floor and just a corridor away from the lobby. It featured a modern contemporary feel with a touch of South Florida chic. The color palette, the décor and clean lines added a soothing touch. Although compact, the suite still presented a sense of roominess. As I entered, I noticed the bathroom suite to my right held a beautiful vanity and a nice standup shower. Continuing down the hallway, the suite opened up with a super-comfortable king-sized bed with built-in reading lights and nightstands on either side. I found plenty of outlets for my electronic devices. A large window spanning the entire width of the room provided a wonderful view of the canal behind the property. The design and layout of the room allowed easy access to all amenities, including a 42-inch television, mini-fridge and laptop-sized safe. Some guestrooms have patios or balconies, and some offer canal, lake or city views.

Services/Amenities: Make a point to have breakfast at the on-site restaurant, located at the entrance from Collins Avenue, just behind the valet station. The all-glass front allows natural light and amazing views of the lake and hotels across the street, giving a sense of being outside. The cooked-to-order breakfast was delicious and savory — there’s nothing like a home-cooked meal while away from home! A breakfast buffet also offers the standard breakfast fare mixed with fruit and healthy options.

Other hotel amenities include an outdoor pool with Jacuzzi, fitness center, business center and concierge services. The fitness center offers classes during the week, and K’Alma Spa offers in-room treatments. The hotel boasts three meeting rooms and, from what we were told, live DJ entertainment Friday and Saturday nights.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Although the hotel is not on the beach, access to the beach across the street was a short and easy walk. ◆ The hotel lies nine miles north of Miami International Airport and 28 miles south of Fort Lauderdale/ Hollywood International Airport and is also close to the Port of Miami and Miami Beach Convention Center. ◆ The Gates Hotel is 100 percent non-smoking, pet-friendly and has 24-hour on-site security.

THE GATES HOTEL SOUTH BEACH — A DOUBLETREE BY HILTON 2360 Collins Ave. Miami Beach, FL 33139 tel 305 860 9444 doubletree3.hilton.com

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HOTEL PENNSYLVANIA Reviewed by Tracey Cullen

Guest Quarters: The rooms all have the same unique green door, which she informed us were the original doors from when the hotel was built in 1919. The hotel kept them even after the recent renovation as a reminder of its history.

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Our room had two double beds, a small desk with a mirror and an extra chair and small table near one of the two windows. Looking out the window, you appreciate the hotel’s location because it has the most amazing view of the Empire State Building. I couldn’t wait to see it later that night all lit up. (It did not disappoint!)

The newly renovated rooms look modern and bright with neutral colors and light wood headboards and furniture. The new beds also have comfortable pillow-top mattresses. I was surprised to find such a huge walk-in closet in a hotel in New York City. It was actually bigger than the bathroom, which was a bit on the small side and had a pedestal sink and a shallow glass shelf for holding personal items like makeup and a toothbrush.

Services/Amenities: The fitness room on the 18th floor offers a decent amount of exercise equipment; but if you want more, the hotel partners with nearby New York Sports Club so you can also use its facilities, including the lap pool, for guests 18 and older.

The property has no on-site restaurant, but a small coffee shop in the lobby stays open 24 hours and makes great hot chocolate, according to my daughter. Hotel guests also receive a voucher for a free continental breakfast just across the street at Café R. The hotel has many options for conference or meeting spaces, with large ballroom spaces near the lobby, smaller rooms on the sixth floor and seven rooms of varying sizes on the 18th floor that take advantage of the great views the hotel has to offer.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The hotel was built in 1919 and celebrated its 100th birthday last year with a renovation. ◆ The original and iconic “valet doors” remain, and a plaque on each door commemorates the history. ◆ Location, location, location!

You can’t beat this spot, just steps from Penn Station and the Empire State Building.

Hotel Pennsylvania 401 Seventh Ave. New York, NY 10001 tel 212 736 5000 hotelpenn.com

PHOTOS: © HOTEL PENNSYLVANIA

Arrival/Check-In: I was staying in New York City with my daughter for the annual Wherever Awards event for our sister site, whereverfamily.com. As this event celebrates the best in family travel, I found it only fitting to get there early for some family sightseeing of our own. We arrived at Penn Station, right across the street from the hotel, at 9:30 a.m. — way too early to check in. But we had some luggage we didn’t want to carry around with us, so we stopped at the hotel to leave it there.

We stood in a line of guests checking out and approached the front desk to inquire about the earliest check-in time and if we could leave our bags. The front desk clerk informed us the earliest we could check in was 1 p.m., and we could leave our bags in the luggage room downstairs — for a fee of $5 per bag.

So we purchased some luggage tags and dropped them off before heading out to see the sights.

We arrived back around 2 p.m. and were able to check in right away, get our bags from the luggage room and head to the 16th floor. As we exited the elevator, we saw a large projection TV, comfortable seating and a large wooden table in the common area. A chandelier over the table made the space bright and inviting. I thought it would be a great place to catch up on the news in the morning with a cup of coffee.

A hotel employee in the hallway saw us looking at the room signs, trying to figure out which way to go. She asked my room number and kindly offered to walk us there.

2020 Leisure Lifestyle Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

Best Beaches ___________________________________________________________________________

Best Large-Ship Cruise Line ___________________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, Domestic __________________________________________________

Best River Cruise Line __________________________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, International _______________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Entertainment _______________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, Domestic_________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Dining ________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, International _____________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Spa ____________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in the United States _________________________________________

Best Cruise Ship Excursions ___________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Europe_____________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Rewards Program ___________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Africa ______________________________________________________

Best Cruise Port ________________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Asia________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Leisure Hotel Group in the World _______________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Latin/South America______________________________________

Best Hotel Chain Resorts ______________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Mexico_____________________________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Hotel ________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination for Groups (Four or More)___________________________________

Best Family Resort Chain in the World ________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in North America__________________________________________

Best All-Inclusive Resort_________________________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in the World_______________________________________________

Best Tour Operator_____________________________________________________________________

Best North American Ski Destination___________________________________________________

Best Airport for Layovers_______________________________________________________________

Best International Ski Destination______________________________________________________

Best Airport Recreation_________________________________________________________________

Best Golf Destination ___________________________________________________________________

Best Stopover Program_________________________________________________________________

Best Caribbean Island _________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Airline ____________________________________________________________________

Best Island in Europe __________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Entertainment___________________________________________________

Best Island Pacific Rim _________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Menu_____________________________________________________________

Best Island in the USA __________________________________________________________________

Best Premium-Economy Class ________________________________________________________

Best Family Cruise Line ________________________________________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Airline ________________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Cruise Line ________________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Vehicle ____________________________________________________________________

Best Value Cruise Line__________________________________________________________________

Best Car Rental _________________________________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Suites _________________________________________________________________

Favorite Luxury Watch Brand __________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Cruise Line ____________________________________________________________

Best Destination Jewelrey Brand _______________________________________________________

Best Small-Ship Cruise Line ____________________________________________________________

Favorite Liquor Brand___________________________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or fax to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/leisureballot Name Street Address City

State

ZIP Code

Home Phone

Email

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

You voted us Best Island in the Pacific Rim 4 years in a row.

Can we make it 5?

We’ve always been pretty partial to the Cook Islands, our little paradise, where the sun shines, tropical fruit hangs from trees, and the air smells like flowers. But four years ago, you let us know we’re not as biased as we thought we were. Then, and every year since, Global Traveler’s readers have voted us the best island destination in the Pacific Rim.

This is a place where you can choose your own adventure; our islands are small and easy to navigate, so fun is always within your reach.

You don’t have to rely on bus tours like you do in big cities, but if you’re the kind of person who likes a packed itinerary, there are plenty of options, from fishing and hiking to kitesurfing and cultural shows.

Voting continues this month, and we’re hoping for an even five, but we know that with or without another award, the Cook Islands is a special place, for us and everyone who’s been here. We know because visitors have told us so, including the founder of Lonely Planet, who called one of our lagoons the most beautiful on the entire planet. We know because when Sports Illustrated shot its 50th anniversary swimsuit issue here, editor MJ Day said it’s the most beautiful place she’s ever seen. We know because for four years running, you’ve chosen us out of a lineup of stunning island getaways as your favorite.

Our islands may be small, but our commitment to taking care of our visitors and taking care of our environment continues to earn us international attention. Years ago, we declared the world’s largest protected marine sanctuary, drawing on a heritage rooted in respect for conservation. We’ve also converted most of our islands to solar energy. Here, you can encounter nature and culture, and both deeply.

Objectively speaking, there’s a lot to love about the Cook Islands.

We’ve struck a rare balance between old Polynesia and the world of Wi-Fi. Authentic culture and sustainable lifestyles cohabitate with villas that open into private pools; we have ovens in the earth and resorts that are consistently recognized at the World Travel Awards as some of the South Pacific’s best.

Air New Zealand, an airline that wins consistent awards, flies to the Cook Islands once a week from Los Angeles every Saturday night.

It’s easy to get here and once you’re here, it’s easy to understand why Global Traveler’s readers keep voting us best island destination in the region. Meitaki – thanks – for your continued support.

We’ll see you in our little paradise.

CookIslands.travel

one on one

AHMED ELASSY General Manager, AC Hotel by Marriott Los Angeles South Bay

A LITTLE BIT MORE What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? Bradley Cooper! Not a lot of actors can chameleon into such a range of characters in the same day.

What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? I always wanted to be in advertising; however, I don’t fit into the Mad Men mentality nor the three-martini lunches.

What is your favorite book, movie or television show? My favorite book, Fierce Conversations by Susan Scott, prepares me for my daily journey, yet I would rather be watching Breaking Bad or Game of Thrones.

What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? It is said Albert Einstein gave a particular exam to a class that had already taken it. His assistant warned him, and the professor just smiled and said, “It’s all right, the answers have changed.” I would like to pick his brain!

THE BUSINESS What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? Reducing AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay’s carbon footprint. In the design process, a decision was made to use LED lighting with sleep mode sensors and energy-efficient air-conditioning using smart thermostats.

My most recent project was using a specific solid detergent to process our laundry that conserves energy. It’s not just about running a business;

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AS A TRAVELER Tell us about a travel nightmare: Imagine arriving at a 5-star Airbnb, locking up and finally able to crash. Then you hear the rattle of keys and a disheveled stranger enters. He’s not surprised to see you, locks the door and asks if you are “going to take his place.” It turned out he was a previous tenant who copied the keys. The police arrested him, and I ended up at a hotel, as I should have.

Share a comical travel experience: Embarking on a five-hour road trip with friends to spend a day in the Egyptian city of Sharm El Sheikh, our car broke down in the desert. It turned into a 14-hour trip after the car refused to go faster than 30 mph. By the time we got there, I was ready to head back, but I got to know my friends a little bit more.

What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? If it’s a long distance and with the right company, I prefer making a road trip of it. Driving out of town on the highway and soaking in the surroundings is the most joyful part of the trip.

What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? It is the little things. I love when I go somewhere enough that I walk in and before I speak, I get what I am there for.

It’s a “Where everybody knows your name and they’re always glad you came” Cheers type of thing.

PHOTO: © AC HOTEL LOS ANGELES SOUTH BAY

THE BASICS Name: Ahmed Elassy Title: General manager Company, city: AC Hotel by Marriott Los Angeles South Bay; Los Angeles, California First job: Auto show organizer; first hospitality job: operator Where to next: Anywhere with a beach and a hammock, probably Costa Rica or some other exotic island

we need to be conscientious of how we impact the world, even by the little things.

What is your favorite aspect of the job? Budget meetings … just kidding! In my position, building relationships with incredibly diverse industry leaders in the glamourous City of Angels and learning something about everything from every one of them.

What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? I invested with a startup called Kallpod — hardware devices placed throughout the hotel’s public spaces, allowing guests to push a button to call their server. Surprisingly, clients pushed that button more often than anticipated; people started bringing their laptops and having work lunches and drinks in areas that were not activated. Not only did their spend make the cost seem like pennies, but Marriott also adopted the technology and made it a requirement in some chains. We have them here at AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay. Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry?

Without a second thought, Christian Clerc, president of Worldwide Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts. I was lucky to work with him when he was regional vice president and general manager at the Four Seasons Washington, D.C. He always believed in me and made the most impact on the direction of my life. I have enormous respect for him, personally and professionally.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

From the Board Room to the Beach Enjoy a Unique Stay at the New AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay

OFFERING MILES OF BEACHFRONT, the South Bay of Los Angeles is quintessential Southern California. Tucked into this same region is the small city of El Segundo, a growing business, dining and entertainment destination, and the home to the newest AC Hotel by Marriott®.

Just minutes from the coastline and Los Angeles International Airport, AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay, a new lifestyle property, brings a timeless European design with Spanish roots and a contemporary option for the modern traveler to the region.

Bridging the business world with that of SoCal’s signature beach scene, AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay is an easy access point to all the area has to offer.

“We’re in close proximity to a high concentration of Fortune 500 companies and amidst the state’s largest aerospace hub, but also just a short drive from the new Los Angeles Stadium at Hollywood

Park and the sun and fun of the coastline and Manhattan Beach,” Ahmed Elassy, general manager said. “All that, plus great shopping and restaurants right in our backyard. It’s an ideal location for visitors arriving just two miles away at LAX looking to jump right into the destination.”

From its sleek decor and scenic rooftop to its state-of-the-art fitness center, tech-friendly and flexible meeting spaces and sensible guestrooms, the AC embodies a sophisticated yet unpretentious style unlike anything in the area.

Along with clean, minimalist design the hotel serves European-style breakfast spreads replete with French croissants and Italian coffees. Made for work or play, there’s also an AC Lounge that extends outdoors to provide the perfect setting for a power lunch on the patio, a celebratory handcrafted cocktail with colleagues, or shared happy hour tapas after work.

For garden-inspired cocktails and seasonal bar bites alongside sweeping city views, guests can retreat to Flora, the hotel’s swanky rooftop bar and lounge, where social hour is in full bloom.

Designed to feel like a friend’s patio, the rooftop garden oasis is ideal for cocktailing with a side of SoCal sunset, capping off a long flight or celebrating a business deal. Along with a vibrant living wall, Flora is also landscaped with a lush garden alive with an array of edible flowers, herbs and vegetables featured in drinks and dishes on the menu.

These lively and verstile spaces combined with a prime location make the hotel a hot spot for company meetings and events. But whether traveling to the South Bay for a boardroom meeting, a beach getaway or a bit of both, AC Hotel Los Angeles South Bay hits the mark. For more information, visit www.marriott.com/laxae.

technology

HOME AND AWAY Discover new devices to suit your lifestyle. BY JACK GUY

CANNONDALE SYNAPSE NEO SE Electric bikes are a great way to ride farther than before, safe in the knowledge the motor will get you home even if you get tired. Cannondale is a leader in the field, and the Synapse NEO SE brings the company’s expertise to an adventurous gravel bike setup that can handle off-road terrain. Powered by the impressive Bosch Active Line Plus motor and a 500Wh battery, you’ll get great performance for mile after mile. $4,500. cannondale.com

AMAZON KINDLE OASIS E-readers have been around for a while, but Amazon keeps improving its Kindle range. The Oasis is the most paperlike e-reader around, and the battery lasts up to six weeks. A recent upgrade also adds a warmth scale, which changes the hue of the screen so it’s easier on your eyes at night.

It proves a perfect product for those who want to read while keeping their luggage as light as possible. $249.99. amazon.com

SMARTECH MOTIV RING If you’d like to get fit after the excesses of the festive period, a fitness tracker is a great tool to help you reach your goals. Most of the models on the market fit around your wrist, but the Motiv packs the same functionality into a ring. It offers a more discreet way to track daily steps, sleep and activity, plus you can use an accompanying app to analyze your data. $199.99. mymotiv.com

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PHOTOS: © CANNONDALE, © GOOGLE, © AMAZON, © SMARTECH

GOOGLE NEST HUB MAX The upgraded version of the Nest Hub smart display features a 10-inch display rather than the original 7-inch, and it comes with an ambient light sensor that adjusts the brightness depending on the time of day. It also doubles as a digital photo frame when not in use, so you can set a slideshow of recent snaps to brighten the room. Another change over the original is louder, better audio performance. This means it’s more suited to larger homes as well as making your music sound better. $229. google.com

TAHITI NONSTOP FROM LOS ANGELES 3 weekly nonstop flights between LAX & Papeete. New cabins with direct aisle access Business flat beds. Easy connections to Bora Bora and other islands.

AF 76 (DL 8560) TUE/THU/SAT - Depart LAX AF 77 (DL 8467) WED/FRI/SUN - Depart PPT

wine & spirits

BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL Italy’s Sagrantino wines pair perfectly with hearty winter meals. BY EUNICE FRIED

THE REGION OF UMBRIA lies in the center of Italy, sheltered on all sides by other Italian regions, including Tuscany on the northwest. As well as medieval hilltop villages and historic towns such as Assisi and Spoletto, Umbria is known for its white truffles in the fall and for its wines, particularly those made of Sagrantino. It is, in fact, the only wine region in Italy that grows the red Sagrantino grape.

Sagrantino’s arrival in Umbria is a mystery, with some sources claiming Franciscan monks brought it back from the East centuries ago and other sources claiming it is an Umbrian original. However Sagrantino came to Umbria, it does particularly well in that region’s clay, limestone and sandy soils, especially in the area around Montefalco, southeast of the region’s capital, Perugia.

These mystery vines produce deeply colored grapes that in turn make an especially dark, intense wine, with many wine professionals claiming it the most tannic of Italian reds.

One of Sagrantino’s true believers is Peter Heilbron.

An Italian who spent most of his professional life as an executive in food and beverage companies, he decided some years ago to follow his true passion. He began Tenuta Bellafonte, his Umbrian winery, in Montefalco, where he

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ine re w o m s try. duce coun o r r e p h ot Italy any than

dedicated 17 acres to Sagrantino vineyards.

Like most Umbrian winemakers, he uses Sagrantino both in blends and as the primary grape in his wines.

Tasting his wines was to experience the full qualities of Sagrantino. Tenuta Bellafonte Montefalco Rosso Pomontino 2016 ($28–30), a blend of 80 percent Sangiovese and 20 percent Sagrantino, is a deep-colored, warm, inviting, extremely flavorful wine which owes its prominent body to the addition of Sagrantino.

We also tasted his Tenuta Bellafonte Montefalco Sagrantino Collenottolo 2013 ($50), deep-flavored, dark-shaded, intense, spicy and muscular with a smooth, forward taste. Collenottolo is the name of the vineyard where the Sagrantino grapes grow. This superb, full-bodied wine quite unlike other Italian wines offers an excellent introduction to the wines of Sagrantino.

Considering Sagrantino’s bold characteristics, it proves a perfect accompaniment to the highly flavorful winter dishes we tend to eat in the chills of January.

PASSION FOR WINE:

Peter Heilbron at Tenuta Bellafonte (top), Tenuta Bellafonte Montefalco Sagrantino Collenottolo (bottom left), and Tenuta Bellafonte Montefalco Rosso Pomontino (bottom right) ​PHOTOS: © EMPSON USA

wealth

LET IT BE

PHOTO: © PATCOTILLOJR - DREAMSTIME.COM

Consider the true cost before borrowing from a retirement plan.

PARTICIPATING IN A COMPANY’S retirement plan is a smart and important decision — smart because you put away small amounts today for a comfortable retirement later.

As your account begins to grow, it may be tempting to dip into your retirement savings by taking a loan against your plan to pay your annual taxes, repair a leaking roof, catch up on your everyday pile of bills and so on. While the decision to take a plan loan is yours to make, we want to make sure you consider the true cost.

With a retirement plan loan, pay yourself back the amount plus interest. But the true cost is reflected in the loss in your retirement savings. You lose money when you borrow from your retirement account for several reasons. You lose by not making money on the earnings or compounding of those earnings. Typically you pay an initial set-up fee and quarterly loan fee. You repay the loan with after-tax dollars. Most employees decrease or cease their contribu-

BY KEVIN RYAN, CPA

tion amount to compensate for the loan payment. You may not pay yourself back the same amount you would have earned if you’d left the money invested.

To further illustrate the costliness of taking a plan loan, consider the following example. (This is hypothetical and intended for illustrative purposes only.) Jane took a $10,000 loan at 7 percent interest from her retirement account; her account balance before the loan was $20,000. She previously made contributions of $150 per paycheck (including employer match). Because she had to repay the loan, she decreased her contribution to $50. Additionally, prior to the loan, she was earning a 10 percent return. Now she will repay the loan over five years. If you take into account the loss of interest, compounding and tax on repayments, the retirement plan loan actually costs Jane 13.77 percent. And don’t forget about decreased contributions, which can add up to hundreds of thousands of dollars over many years.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

JANUARY 2020

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spas

LIVING WELL IN VEGAS Indulge in luxury and serenity at Waldorf Astoria Las Vegas. BY ERICH MARTIN

TAKE A DIP:

Spa vitality pool PHOTO: © WALDORF ASTORIA LAS VEGAS

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WHEN I STEPPED OFF MY FLIGHT at Las Vegas’ McCarran International Airport in October, I noticed something obviously different about the air. It was probably just the warmth and humidity, as the 80-degree temperature was a far cry from the chill I left in Philadelphia.

My stay in the city was short, with a schedule packed with cocktail hours and Aston Martin driving experiences. I settled into my room at the Waldorf Astoria and set out to explore the hotel. First of all, the name “Waldorf Astoria” denotes luxury for a reason. The Waldorf Astoria Las Vegas is the only hotel on the Strip with no casino. Instead of a focus on drinking and gambling, the focus sits squarely on health and living well.

Inside every guestroom, visitors find a spa-inspired bathroom featuring a huge soaking tub and complimentary bath salts, soaps and lotions to make even routine soaks more luxurious.

Outside the room, the property bursts with luxury. The 23rd-floor SkyBar and Tea Lounge afford guests breathtaking views of the city, especially at night. On my first day at the property I had plenty of

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time to explore before my appointment to drive an Aston Martin.

The driving experience is the result of a four-year partnership between Waldorf Astoria and Aston Martin. Hotel guests, local dealers and interested locals have the chance to sign up for a one-hour experience with a professional driver. For hotel guests the experience is complimentary, and I drove the DBS Superleggera for nearly an hour.

The experience was just the icing on the cake of an already refreshing day.

The next morning I explored the rest of the hotel and the surrounding areas, returning to my room to rest for a bit before my appointment at the Waldorf Astoria Spa. I was nervous before the 1 p.m. appointment. I had never had a massage before and didn’t know quite what to expect.

I took the elevator to the eighth floor, which houses the fitness center, outdoor rooftop pools and spa. After checking me in, the spa attendant ushered me to the waiting area. Within a few minutes another spa attendant greeted me and took my shoes, replacing them with a pair of slides. She offered several options for tea, and I decided

peppermint sounded best, perhaps because she mentioned its anxiety-assuaging qualities.

I sat on the plush couch for less than 10 minutes, sipping the tea and contemplating the imminent massage. After a few minutes, my therapist greeted me and escorted me down an atmospheric hall to one of the nine single treatment rooms. The spa also has seven private couple’s suites available.

My massage therapist was aware this was my first spa treatment of any kind and walked me through the entire experience. Before the treatment started, I selected an aromatherapy for the treatment. I picked a spicy, Christmasytype scent on my therapist’s insistence it boosted immune health.

I had ample time to get comfortable on the table before my therapist knocked and asked to start the treatment. I don’t have much to compare, but by the end of the treatment I was totally relaxed. The full-body massage lasted just under an hour, and my therapist made sure I was comfortable throughout, changing the pressure to help me get the most out of the experience. I had her use as much pressure as possible, and by the end my muscles felt more relaxed than they have been in years.

Waldorf Astoria Las Vegas guests have access to all the spa facilities, and the staff made sure I knew that before I departed.

The 27,000-square-foot spa has separate men’s and women’s facilities which include steam rooms, a hammam, laconium and vitality pool. Women have access to a rhassoul and relaxation lounge, while men have access to a sauna, ice fountain and relaxation room. There is also a foot spa and nail salon.

I didn’t get a chance to experience much of the auxiliary facilities; my time was tight, and I needed to catch an early flight the next morning. But I could imagine decompressing in the lounge, watching the sun set over the Strip. If I am ever back in Las Vegas, I will definitely return to the Waldorf Astoria Las Vegas. And the massage is inspiring me to seek out spas wherever I travel.

SPECIAL TREATMENT:

Foot massage chair (above) and) spa tepidarium chairs (left) PHOTOS: © WALDORF ASTORIA LAS VEGAS

Waldorf Astoria Las Vegas 3752 Las Vegas Blvd. S. Las Vegas, NV 89158 tel 702 590 8888 waldorfastoria3 .hilton.com

JANUARY 2020

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golf

THE TURKEY BOWL A longstanding golf tradition continues at Union League Golf Club at Torresdale. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

OVER THE RIVER: Hole 1

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

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THIS REVIEW OF THE UNION LEAGUE Golf Club at Torresdale is as much a look back at my career in the travel industry, dating to when (and possibly before) Antero Palo, marketing director, Finnair, won our inaugural Turkey Bowl in 1994. The Turkey Bowl means different things to different people. For some, it is a touch football game played on Black Friday, the official kick-off to the Christmas holiday shopping frenzy. To many in the travel industry, it is a golf tournament held on Black Friday among industry friends and advisory board members. The game stretches beyond the existence of Global Traveler itself.

While the weather on Black Friday can be warm and balmy, more likely it’s bitterly cold, with driven balls ricocheting off frozen ponds, slamming frozen greens and bouncing. Sometimes we see flurries, sometimes rain; one year was even snowed out. This past year was cold but not bitter, and nine of us separated into three threesomes to compete in the annual tournament. The group included Mike Donahue, chairman of the Global Traveler Advisory Board; his son

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Michael and friend Pete; Bob Hancock, Wayne Tallman, Jim Bolger and Chris “Yammi” Ottaunick, all also of the Advisory Board; and my brother Gerry Gallagher, in Philadelphia for the Thanksgiving holiday from Dallas.

Without the love and care of the Union League of Philadelphia, Torresdale Frankford Country Club might not be here today. Since the Union League purchased the club in 2014, membership has exceeded expectations and a historical landmark now makes a growing contribution to the community.

The club began as two Philadelphia golf courses: the Torresdale Golf Club, created in 1896, and the Frankford Club, started in 1897.

In 1921 Torresdale purchased the current property, built a new ninehole course and eventually merged the two courses. Selecting Donald Ross to design the new course proved a brilliant step; true golfers consider Ross nearly a god among golf course architects.

The Union League immediately earmarked at least $8 million for renovations, turning The Union League Golf Club at Torresdale into

one of the best facilities in the region. Improvements continue, recently adding new carts with GPS positioning for every shot. Sean Palmer, director of golf, keeps everything running smoothly and surrounds himself with a knowledgeable and friendly team.

Following is a rundown of our Turkey Bowl outing and the club’s key holes. Due to a frost delay, all groups played off the back and front nines at about 10:30 a.m. Recovering from the Thanksgiving overstuffing, we all played from the white tees.

HOLE 11 | 193 yards, par 3

I was in the group with Bob and Gerry, and after playing the 10th hole miserably, we tried to reclaim some sense of inner golf Zen. This challenging par 3 plays a little longer than expected. I always tee up a 3-wood, assuming I will achieve a little loft and make the green. A creek runs diagonally from left to right and then continues past the green. Many balls fall short and land in the creek.

I hit the green with a great slam; Gerry and Bob came up short but recovered with decent chips to card bogeys. I two-putted, thanking Donny Ross for allowing my inner shooter to succeed!

HOLE 18 | 345 yards, par 4

This was our ninth hole, as we were playing the back nine first. The weather started to grow colder and the balls were not traveling the same distance. Ryan Daily, caddie master, joined us for a few holes, adding to the fun of the Turkey Bowl Championship.

Ryan murdered his ball off the tee and a little right of the fairway. From the tee box you want to favor the right side, as the approach is uphill and blind; aim for the American flag flying at the clubhouse. My shot went a little left; and although I hit a nice iron to the green, it caught the left edge and in Donald Ross fashion kicked into the deep sand trap on the left of the green. Gerry and I got out of our trouble — a nice sand shot got me back in the game — and we carded a bogey.

Bob came up clean with a nice drive in the center right side of the fairway and a shot to the green, two-putting for par. Ryan overhit the green, losing a shot. The Union League made this hole more user-friendly, relocating the cart path to the right of the hole so players move away more efficiently to keep at pace.

HOLE 1 | 318 yards, par 4

Bob and Gerry disappeared to add layers to their clothing as the temperature dropped and the wind picked up. We poured coffee and hot chocolate for a welcome bit of warmth. We were ready to step up our play, and I am pleased to report scores greatly improved on the front nine; Bob carded a 38, a vast improvement.

Big hitters can easily reach the creek before the green —

consider a 3- or 5-wood from the tee box. My drive plowed through the fairway and landed in the right rough before the creek but still on the slope. It was a challenge to find balls in the winter rough. I had a nice shot to the green, but as the green sits elevated, my ball came up short. In the summer the ball would roll all the way back. It took me a chip and two putts to make bogey. This green underwent great reconstruction, removed in pieces and reassembled after adding drainage and rebuilding to keep Ross’ original design.

CHILLY IN PHILLY: Gerry Gallagher and Bob Hancock PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

HOLE 8 415 yards, par 4

I often tout Hole 8 is ranked as the most difficult par 4 in Philadelphia, and this might be true … or maybe it’s just that the city of Philadelphia doesn’t have a lot of golf courses.

Most of the “Philadelphia Greats” lie outside the city limits.

Nonetheless, Hole 8 requires an accurate drive left center and long in order to make the green in two. Many players end up too far right, consequently blocked out by a white house which nearly protrudes on the edge of the right fairway.

I threw myself into the drive, landing the best of the day in the proper position, left of center. My next shot was yet another great hit, maybe a little overpowered but just enough for Ross to grab my ball and drop it in the left trap. A nice out and two-putt secured a bogey. Bob followed with a bogey, but Gerry, troubled by a weak drive, lumbered up to putt in for an undisclosed number.

Overall, a glorious day followed by nice conversation, with the awarding of the trophy to Wayne Tallman completing the 25th annual Turkey Bowl.

JANUARY 2020

The Union League Golf Club at Torresdale 3801 Grant Ave. Philadelphia, PA 19114 tel 215 637 7500 unionleague.org

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chefs

SEASONAL INSPIRATION Chef Mike Landas creates delectable cuisine at City Vineyard. BY KIMBERLY KROL

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WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? I absolutely love pecan pie. Unlike today, it wasn’t readily available in North Jersey when I was young, and on a family road trip visiting relatives in Virginia it was the first dish I had as a young boy that opened my eyes to cuisine from the American South, and it’s held a special place in my heart since.

On the other hand, I despise truffle oil. Having had real white and black truffles, I just can’t get used to the artificial taste of truffle oil.

WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? I love using dinner parties to play with flavors and techniques that normally don’t go together. If I hosted tonight, some of the dishes on the menu would be Chinese five-spiced garlic bread, hickory-smoked butternut squash, shawarma-seasoned beef short ribs, country fried cauliflower, maybe even jackfruit beignets!

WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN? Thanksgiving dinner — one year Mom was sick and I ended up preparing everything myself. Between dishes I’d helped her make in the past

(Filipino lumpia and pancit) and a few recipes I took from the Food Network website (oyster/cornbread dressing, crab-stuffed Portobello mushrooms), I think it turned out well.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? Creole jambalaya: The dish is globally influenced (hints of Africa and the Caribbean mixed with Louisiana flavors), locally sourced (Southern Trinity, Andouille sausage, Tasso ham and Gulf shrimp are common ingredients), and just puts a smile on everyone’s face from the first bite. I like to think I fill those categories, also.

WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? Zoodles and spiralized root vegetables, because there are so many fun and delicious ways to prepare zucchini, squash and beets that maintain the essence of what the vegetable is. Keep noodles as they have been for centuries — no need to remake the wheel or the noodles.

CITY VINEYARD cityvineyardnyc.com

PHOTOS: © CITY VINEYARD / CITY WINERY

CITY VINEYARD DINERS CAN expect serious flavor from Chef Mike Landas’ seasonal menus. Landas, who cites Seattle and New Orleans as his favorite culinary cities, joined the City Vineyard team in October 2017, and his influence and personal touch made an impact in the kitchen and on the menu almost immediately. Aside from Landas’s delectable cuisine, patrons to City Vineyard can enjoy riverfront dining, stunning views, a riverside wine garden, a rooftop deck and a beautifully paired food and wine menu.

Landas honed his skills and developed his own personal style working at restaurants around New York City including Spigolo, Abe & Arthur’s, Little Beat and Pig & Khao. He enjoys perusing farmers markets and food halls, constantly seeking new experiences and inspiration.

2020 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers__________________________________ Best Airline for . . .

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Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs

Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________

Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________

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BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . .

Africa_____________________________________________________________________________

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Eastern Europe__________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ Mexico___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East _________________________________________________________________

North America___________________________________________________________________

North Asia (excluding China)____________________________________________________

The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . .

Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________

The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . .

Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________

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Best Individual Hotel in the World ________________________________________________ International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs

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OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program ______________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

State

ZIP Code Email

cruising

ROMANCING THE RHINE Castles, windmills and vineyards mark Europe’s quintessential waterway.

EUROPE’S BUSIEST AND MOST picturesque waterway, the Rhine River winds for more than 700 miles from the Swiss Alps to the North Sea. It is a traveler’s feast for the eye, mind and palate, a complete banquet of castles, museums, medieval towns, vineyards, restaurants and shops. Sightseers have focused on its wonders for centuries. With the popularity of river cruises spreading, the Rhine River remains at the top of the charts, drawing more than 300 cruise ships to its waters each year, including many of the world’s most luxurious river vessels.

For river cruising, the Rhine is divided into three sectors. The Lower Rhine, with stops at such historic German cities as Bonn and Cologne, empties into the sea near Amsterdam, while the Upper Rhine has notable ports of call, too, including Basel and Strasbourg. But the centerpiece of a Rhine cruise is the Middle Rhine, the so-called Romantic Rhine, where the 40-mile Rhine Gorge between Bingen and Koblenz is festooned with more medieval castles than any other river valley in the world.

The Romantic Rhine and its Gorge, with its medieval villages and 1,000-year-old terraced vineyards, was the inspired setting for Richard Wagner’s epic opera, Götterdämmerung. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage

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BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

site, its scenic centerpiece is a natural monument, the sheer cliffside known as Lorelei, the emblem of a mythic femme fatale who lured many a ship and crew to disaster. Lorelei, in turn, is the inspiration of a romantic poem by Heinrich Heine, a waltz by Johann Straus, an opera by Felix Mendelssohn, a verse by Sylvia Plath and, most recently, a character from Marvel Comics.

Most Rhine cruises of a week or longer sweep

PICTURE-PERFECT:

Stolzenfels Castle in the Rhine Gorge near Koblenz, Germany (top), and the great bow of the Rhine River near Boppard, Germany (bottom) PHOTOS: © HAVESEEN - DREAMSTIME .COM, © EUGENZ - DREAMSTIME.COM

with

den, through all three stretches of the Rhine, including Lorelei cliff and er’s E tlighting a v o l the Rhine Gorge, with Amsterdam serving as either the starting tle spo ur. a cas ande uins s r r i g or ending point. The cruising season runs April through October, d e d n g n a or ory a sses ine G although most major river lines offer an array of Christmas ortre rman hist f he Rh T 0 4 market cruises in the winter. In recent years the number of f Ge than pan o s more r luxury river cruise ships offering extended trips on the Rhine a -ye 1,000 proliferated, affording travelers a raft of high-end choices for cruising.

Viking River Cruises is the baseline for modern luxury cruising on the Rhine, with its array of sleek 190-passenger Longships offering a host of complimentary amenities, from a shore excursion at every port to spacious river-view cabins. A typical eight-day Rhine Getaway begins on the Upper Rhine in Basel and visits the Black Forest, the medieval village of Colmar and the Alsatian wine country near Strasbourg, France, before sailing into the Rhine Gorge with a chance to tour the 700-yearold Marksburg Castle and the Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein. On the Lower Rhine, Viking calls on Cologne’s Old Town before winding through Kinderdijk, a network of UNESCO World Heritage site windmills (19 of them) which guests can view close up on bicycle or aboard a vintage barge.

For those demanding even more luxurious cruising, Crystal River Cruises sails the Rhine between Amsterdam and Basel in all-inclusive style with the all-suite, 106-passenger Crystal FIRE SAIL Debussy and Crystal Bach — part of a fleet that constitutes the first On five special festive nights and only all-balcony, all-suite, each year, massive fireworks all-butler vessels serving Europe’s displays and convoys of waterways. lighted ships cast a special Scenic River Cruises offers light on the Rhine’s castles comparable deluxe river cruising. and crags.

Eight of its 167- to 169-passenger In 2020 these annual Rhine river boats, including its newest in Flames festivals will launch Space-Ships, will work the Rhine May 2 in Bonn, July 4 in Bingen River in 2020, each vessel with and Rüdesheim, and Aug. 8 in butler service and nearly every the Spay-Koblenz region. other amenity you might dream Rhine in Flames concludes of. Two other top-end choices with two brilliant flare-ups, are AmaWaterways and Avalon the first Sept. 12 in OberweWaterways. AmaWaterways, with sel, where the fireworks are eight ships on the Rhine, provides synchronized to music, and passengers with a swimming the last, Sept. 19, in the sister WINE AND WINDMILLS: pool, fitness center, spa, bicycles for shore excursions and gourmet towns of Sankt Goar and Wine room in Ehrenbreitstein Fortress in dining. Many of its Rhine trips are designated as special wine cruises.

Sankt Goarshausen, where Koblenz, Germany (top), and famous windmill Avalon Waterways, with the newest river fleet in Europe, claims the park in Kinderdijk, the Netherlands (bottom) pyrotechnics illuminate the continent’s largest staterooms. Bicycles, Nordic walking sticks and wine castles Katz (cat) and Maus PHOTOS: © KINEK00 - DREAMSTIME .COM, © REGIEN PAASSEN - DREAMSTIME.COM and beer with lunch and dinner are complimentary, as are breakfasts (mouse) during the annual delivered to your stateroom. wine festivals.

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All in the Family Global Traveler celebrates the winners of the 2019 Wherever Awards.

BY KIMBERLY KROL | PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK

ON A BEAUTIFUL NEW YORK CITY EVENING, the team at FXExpress Publications, Inc., encompassing Global Traveler, trazeetravel.com and whereverfamily.com, took in the sweeping views on offer at City Vineyard at Pier 26 to celebrate the Wherever Awards, the awards for the best in family travel as deemed by the readers of whereverfamily.com.

To the beautiful sounds of steel drums, we presented the winners of the 2019 Wherever Awards; sipped on the delicious wines of City Vineyard; and chatted with colleagues, co-workers, clients and friends. The Wherever Awards ballot ran on whereverfamily.com from September 2018 to March 2019, with the winners announced in September 2019.

Here we recap the winners as they proudly display their new awards.

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This year, for the first time, WhereverFamily awarded the WhereverFamily Family Traveler of the Year to Rainer Jenss, president and founder of the Family Travel Association. Jenss left a position at National Geographic to take a year to travel around the world with his wife and two sons. They traveled from continent to continent, and the boys kept up with their schooling on the road, not missing a beat when they returned a year later. Upon their return, Jenss launched Family Travel Association to encourage other families to travel the world to build relationships and global perspective.

Join whereverfamily.com in February 2020 for an exciting online travel auction to benefit KAI Foundation.

KAI Foundation was created in 2015 to play a role in assisting those in need in order to give future generations greater opportunities. The journey out of poverty can only commence when those in need have access to quality health care and education. In developing countries these basic services are simply not available. The first initiative was in Mugarameno, Zambia, a small village approximately 15 miles from Royal Zambezi Lodge, a local partner for the hospital. Any initiative undertaken anywhere in the world must have a local partner that can co-manage the project to ensure 100 percent of the resources and funding is applied appropriately. The maternity ward built in December of 2016 in Mugarameno serves a community of more than 20,000 people. To date, the facility has delivered almost 200 children, and the numbers grow considerably as the community learns the benefits of employing the facility. The Zambian government carefully watched the success of the project and is now sending a doctor to be based in the village to support the on-site nurse, made possible as a result of the KAI Foundation building a home for a doctor and another assistant.

The next project will commence in early 2020 to support a school on the outskirts of Siem Reap, Cambodia. The existing school, too small for the 200 students currently enrolled, lacks basic supplies. The Cambodia project will be co-managed by Destination Asia.

Congratulations to the 2019 Wherever Award winners! Don’t forget to vote for your favorites in the world of family travel through March on whereverfamily.com.

QUALITY CARE:

In Zambia, Francis X. Gallagher with children (top), hospital exam rooms (middle), and children (bottom) PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE: 1. Martin Schneider, senior regional sales director, American Airlines

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2. Meg Daly, sales director, Silversea Cruises 3. Heng Gan, general manager, airport operations, Singapore Changi Airport 4. Lisa Falango, business development manager, Royal Caribbean 5. Gregory Stranz, senior marketing manager, Chase Bank Credit Cards 6. Rainer Jenss, president and founder, Family Travel Association 7. Bridget Blake, marketing manager, Chase Bank Credit Cards 8. Susan Granger, Northeast regional director, Beaches

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9. Marzia Bortolin, marketing and promotion director, Italian Government Tourist Board 10. Fern Ottavio, sales and marketing manager, TAP Air Portugal 11. Mikala Moss, area manager, sales and marketing, Bahamas 12. Mats Winter, director, product design, Air Canada 13. Brian Honan, director of sales and marketing, The Plaza Hotel 14. Darrel Schoeling, director of expedition development, Lindblad Expeditions

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PARTY GUESTS: 1. Laura Gallagher; Gary Oswald, member, Advisory Board, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Michele Gallagher 2. Carly Allen, associate publisher and executive vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc., celebrates with the American Airlines team.

3. Erich Martin, assistant editor, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Mikala Moss, area manager, sales and marketing, Bahamas; Stephanie Makowski, account executive, FXExpress Publications, Inc.

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4. Richard Evans, senior vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Carly Allen, associate publisher and executive vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Angelique Platas, associate editor, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Jenna Payesko, copywriter, DDB Health 5. Tracey Cullen, art director, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Alli Cullen 6. Yasser Ogando, production and advertising coordinator, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Gregory Stranz, senior marketing manager, Chase Bank Credit Cards 7. Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Todd Neuman, executive vice president, North America, South African Airways 8. Ricardo Fernandez, regional sales manager, Northern U.S., Aerolineas Argentinas; Lizzy Fernandez; Stephanie Makowski, account executive, FXExpress Publications, Inc. 9. Rainer Jenss, president and founder, Family Travel Association; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Gary Oswald, member, Advisory Board, FXExpress Publications, Inc.

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10. Chris Sager, account executive, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Carly Allen, associate publisher and executive vice president, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Angelique Platas, associate editor, FXExpress Publications, Inc.

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC AIRPORT:

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY ALL-INCLUSIVE HOTEL: Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa

Pittsburgh International Airport

PHOTO: © BEACHES

PHOTO: © PITTSBURGH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESORT CHAIN: Wyndham Hotels & Resorts PHOTO: © WYNDHAM HOTELS & RESORTS

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL AIRLINE 1. TAP Air Portugal 2. Delta Air Lines 3. Alaska Airlines 4. Air New Zealand 5. American Airlines

Wherever Awards 2019 Best Family-Friendly WINNERS’ CIRCLE Airport Shopping BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY

Dubai Duty Free DOMESTIC AIRLINE 1. American Airlines 2. Delta Air Lines 3. Hawaiian Airlines 4. United Airlines 5. Alaska Airlines BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AIRLINE IN NORTH AMERICA 1. Air Canada 2. American Airlines 3. Delta Air Lines 4. United Airlines 5. Alaska Airlines

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY FREQUENT-FLYER PROGRAM 1. Air Canada Aeroplan 2. United MileagePlus 3. American Airlines AAdvantage 4. Delta SkyMiles 5. Singapore Airlines KrisFlyer BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL CHAIN 1. The Ritz-Carlton 2. Holiday Inn Club Vacations 3. Hyatt Hotels and Resorts 4. Westin Hotels & Resorts 5. Sheraton BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESORT CHAIN 1. Wyndham Hotels & Resorts 2. Hyatt Hotels and Resorts

Villages & Spa 2. Nickelodeon Hotels & Resorts Punta Cana, Dominican Republic 3. Paradisus Playa del Carmen La Esmeralda, Mexico 4. Club Med Pragelato Vialattea, Italy 5. Tortuga Lodge & Gardens, Costa Rica

3. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 4. Crowne Plaza 5. Westin Hotels & Resorts BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INDIVIDUAL HOTEL 1. Atlantis Paradise Island Resort, Bahamas 2. Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World 3. Atlantis The Palm, Dubai 4. LEGOLAND Feriendorf, Gunzburg, Germany 5. Beaches Negril Resort & Spa, Jamaica

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY PET HOTEL 1. Fairmont Hotels 2. The Peninsula Hotels 3. Westin Hotels & Resorts 4. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 5. Sheraton

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY FREQUENT-STAY PROGRAM 1. Marriott Bonvoy 2. IHG Rewards Club 3. Wyndham Rewards 4. Loews First 5. Hilton Honors BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY ALL-INCLUSIVE HOTEL 1. Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL KIDS CLUB 1. Atlantis Paradise Island Resort, Bahamas 2. The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colorado 3. Club Med, Sandpiper Bay, Florida 4. Sea Island, Georgia 5. Beaches Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL CHAIN: The Ritz-Carlton PHOTO: © THE RITZ-CARLTON

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY VACATION COMPANY 1. American Airlines Vacations 2. United Vacations 3. SAA Vacations 4. Delta Vacations 5. Holiday Inn Vacation Club

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CRUISE LINE 1. Disney Cruise Line 2. Holland America Line 3. Viking Ocean Cruises 4. Princess Cruises 5. Celebrity Cruises

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC TOUR COMPANY 1. Adventures by Disney 2. National Geographic Vacations 3. REI Adventures 4. Trafalger 5. Intrepid Travel

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY MULTIGEN CRUISE LINE 1. Silversea Cruises 2. Celebrity Cruises 3. Viking Ocean Cruises 4. Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection 5. Royal Caribbean

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL TOUR COMPANY 1. National Geographic Vacations 2. Lindblad Expeditions 3. Classic Journeys 4. Thomson Family Adventures 5. Austin Adventures

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CRUISE LINE KIDS CLUB 1. Royal Caribbean Adventure Ocean 2. Norwegian Cruise Line Splash Academy 3. Disney Cruise Line Oceaneer Club 4. Carnival Cruise Line Camp Ocean 5. Princess Cruises Camp Discovery

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CREDIT CARD 1. United Explorer Card from Chase 2. Blue Cash Preferred Card from American Express 3. Alaska Airlines Visa Signature Card 4. Chase Sapphire Preferred 5. Citi AAdvantage MasterCard

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC DESTINATION 1. Philadelphia 2. Orlando 3. California 4. Washington, D.C. 5. Texas

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CREDIT CARD REWARDS PROGRAM 1. Chase Marriott Bonvoy Boundless Visa 2. Royal Caribbean Bank of America Visa 3. Delta SkyMiles American Express 4. Princess Cruises Visa Signature Card 5. Disney Premier Visa

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY CARIBBEAN ISLAND 1. Bahamas 2. Grand Cayman 3. Curaçao 4. Aruba 5. St. Lucia

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL DESTINATION 1. Italy 2. Africa 3. Fiji 4. London 5. Costa Rica

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY MULTIGEN DESTINATION OF THE YEAR 1. Italy 2. South Africa 3. Ireland 4. Patagonia 5. Mexico

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY WATERPARK: Great Wolf Lodge PHOTO: © GREAT WOLF LODGE

Wherever Awards 2019 Best Family-Friendly BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY Airport PARK Shopping AMUSEMENT 1. Cedar Point, Sandusky, Ohio

Dubai Duty 2. Magic Kingdom, DisneyFree World, Orlando 3. Universal Studios Hollywood 4. Sesame Place, Langhorne, Pennsylvania 5. Six Flags Fiesta Texas, San Antonio BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY WATERPARK 1. Great Wolf Lodge 2. Atlantis The Palm, Dubai 3. Aquatica by SeaWorld 4. Zoombezi Bay, Columbus, Ohio 5. Disney’s Blizzard Beach, Orlando BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY RENTAL CAR COMPANY 1. Avis 2. Hertz 3. Sixt 4. National Car Rental 5. Budget BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY TRAVEL PROVIDER OF THE YEAR 1. Lindblad Expeditions 2. National Geographic Vacations 3. REI Adventures 4. Thomson Family Adventures 5. Ecoventure Family Cruises BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY DOMESTIC AIRPORT 1. Pittsburgh International Airport 2. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 3. San Francisco International Airport 4. Chicago O’Hare International Airport 5. Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport

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BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 1. Singapore Changi Airport 2. Munich Airport 3. Hamad International Airport, Doha 4. Incheon Airport 5. Frankfurt am Main Airport BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AIRPORT DINING 1. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 2. Chicago O’Hare International Airport 3. Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport 4. George Bush Intercontinental Airport, Houston 5. Dubai International Airport BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY AIRPORT SHOPPING 1. Dubai International Airport 2. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 3. Hamad International Airport, Doha 4. Amsterdam Schiphol Airport 5. Singapore Changi Airport

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY TRAVEL PROVIDER OF THE YEAR: Lindblad Expeditions PHOTO: © SVEN-OLOF / LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS

Welcome to Travel Inspired by Tahiti.

Onboard our new fleet of Tahitian Dreamliner’s, you’ll be immersed in pure luxury.

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TA H I T I

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PA R I S

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SYDNEY

feature: airline update

Gearing Up Japan Airlines prepares for the Tokyo Olympics with new aircraft and cabin designs. BY MIQUEL ROS MODERN UPDATE: Japan Airlines refurbished firstclass lounge PHOTO: © JAPAN AIRLINES

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LAST YEAR PROVED QUITE eventful for Japan Airlines: its first brand-new Airbus aircraft; a new cabin on domestic flights; a revamped frequent-flyer program; a refurbished first-class lounge at Narita; and the unveiling of the new low-cost subsidiary, ZIPAIR Tokyo.

This year promises to be as intense as the previous, and not just because the Tokyo Olympics will make JAL’s home city the center of world attention.

In June 2019 JAL’s top brass gathered in Toulouse, France, to attend an event of historic significance: the airline’s first-ever delivery of an Airbus aircraft (JAL had only temporarily operated a handful of legacy Airbus A300 aircraft after absorbing Japan Air

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System in 2001). This first Airbus A350-900, named “JAL Red” after the color of its special livery (“JAL Silver” and “JAL Green” followed suit), represented the first of a 31-strong order (plus 25 additional options) to be delivered to the Japanese carrier. Of these, 18 are A350-900s, to be deployed on domestic routes and fitted with JAL’s newest cabin interior for the domestic market. The remaining 13 aircraft are the longer Airbus A350-1000 version which, from the mid-2020s, will replace an equal number of Boeing 777-300ER aircraft on international routes.

This doesn’t mean Japan Airlines will relinquish its decades-long close relationship with Boeing anytime soon, though. The American aircraft maker will continue to provide the backbone of the fleet in years to come. The Boeing 787 fleet, for example, is being brought to its full complement of 49 aircraft.

As in the case of the A350s, the smaller 787-8s will be employed primarily in the domestic market, while larger Boeing 787-9s will serve international routes.

JAL also completed the renewal of its narrow-body fleet, with 50 Boeing 737-800 aircraft replacing older Boeing 737-400s, while the Boeing 777-200ER and

n e Japa mad s e n i Airl in lines head s the 9a 201 intro o t t firs book a e eat duc ine s g n e ing ing show s p a m bie e ba on r e h w d eate are s e, a lan the p ssengers pa a tool g for n i k loo ght r fli e t e i ite qu d qu n i f may ul. usef

Boeing 767 fleets will continue to soldier on since the airline has not yet made a decision about their future.

The Japanese flag carrier plans to add 32 locally produced Mitsubishi SpaceJet regional aircraft to its fleet; however, their entry into service, originally planned for 2020, has no confirmed date.

When it comes to its product, Japan Airlines makes a stark distinction between domestic and international markets. Its domestic offering, called SkyNext, comprises three classes of service with their respective cabins: first (domestic), Class J (roughly comparable to a premium-economy product) and economy.

The arrival of the A350-900s gives JAL the perfect excuse to undertake a major revamp of its domestic product, with the new cabin progressively rolling out on the Boeing 787-8 fleet. Designed by British firm Tangerine, this design update aims to refresh the look and feel of the cabin, combining dark and light tones to reflect the Japanese sense of elegance and serenity. New ergonomic seats equipped with USB ports, personal seat-back screens and free access to the Panasonic inflight entertainment platform will also enhance the passenger experience.

When it comes to its international product, JAL organizes its four-class offering under its award-winning SkySuite brand: JAL Suite (first class), Sky Suite (business), Sky Premium (premium economy) and JAL Sky Wider (economy). Although SkySuite was introduced as recently as 2013, JAL is already updating it on the Boeing 777-300ER fleet. Seats in business, premium economy and economy are getting a face-lift. In addition to a new color palette, passengers will notice the cabin’s LED lighting as well as refurbished lavatories and, as they board the plane, a nicer welcome area.

Crew uniforms also received a redesign by Japanese fashion designer Yasutoshi Ezumi. The new collection, including the first specially designed uniform for female pilots, will debut in April 2020.

And back on the ground, first-class passengers have enjoyed a revamped dedicated lounge at Narita Airport since April 2019. Based on the concept known as Modern Japanese, this lounge, designed by renowned Japanese interior designer Ryu Kosaka, includes JAL’s Table, where chefs prepare dishes right in front of the passengers.

Not only premium passengers will be able to dine on high-quality Japanese food. Starting this 2019–2020 winter season, premium-economy and economy passengers on international routes will be able to taste a selection of dishes devised by five young chefs from RED U-35, Japan’s largest culinary competition for chefs under the age of 35.

Following the 2019 launch of a non-stop route between Tokyo Narita and Seattle (SEA), JAL announced two new destinations for the 2020 summer season: Bengaluru (BLR) and Vladivostok (VVO), both flying from Narita. The Bengaluru route will not only be the only non-stop link between Japan and India’s high-tech capital, but it also opens up an alternative routing for those traveling between Bengaluru and the United States. JAL’s increased presence in India (it already flies to Delhi) is boosted by a recent codeshare agreement with Vistara, a growing private Indian carrier.

The port city of Vladivostok, capital of the resource-rich Russian Far East, is another vector of expansion for JAL. At Vladivostok, passengers will be able to connect with oneworld partner S7 for onward travel to a number of cities throughout Siberia.

CABIN COMFORT: Airbus A350 first class (top), business class (middle), and economy class (bottom) PHOTOS: © JAPAN AIRLINES

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FLAGSHIP FLEET: Boeing 777-300ER business class (top) and economy class (middle), and ZIPAIR aircraft (bottom) PHOTOS: © JAPAN AIRLINES

Its alliance has not been an obstacle for JAL’s establishing its own separate codeshare agreement with Aeroflot (a SkyTeam member) on the Tokyo–Moscow route. As a result, Japan Airlines will switch Moscow airports, from Domodedovo (DME) to Sheremetyevo (SVO), the base of the Russian flag carrier.

And across the Pacific Ocean, after 65 years of continued presence, JAL expands its investment in one of the most important markets: Hawai’i. The newly introduced Style Yourself initiative offers a number of services to Japanese travelers flying to the archipelago, such as early check-in service at hotels; vacation rental offers; and the JAL Wedding Dress Box service, allowing couples to send their wedding dresses in large containers.

However, JAL’s attempt to solidify its existing partnership with Hawaiian Airlines has been frustrated by the U.S. Department of Transportation’s refusal to grant the two airlines antitrust immunity. The existing joint marketing efforts and codesharing met no objections, though.

In July 2019 JAL launched a revamped loyalty program, the Mileage Bank Marketplace. One of its key aims is to make the frequent-flyer program more attractive to international travelers, as opposed to its earlier, more domestically focused approach. This multilanguage (Japanese, English, Korean and Simplified Chinese), multicurrency (yen, pound, U.S. dollar and euro) digital platform lets passengers earn and spend their miles on an expanded selection of non-airline partners in 140 countries around the world. It also comes with international e-commerce delivery options.

This makes a timely addition ahead of the 2020 Tokyo Olympic and Paralympic games, events for which JAL has been preparing thoroughly. In addition to painting two of its aircraft with Olympic-themed special liveries, JAL is teaming up with its competitor, ANA, to bring the Olympic torch home from Greece and then support its relays through the country’s 47 prefectures. Also in connection with the Olympics, JAL launched the Next Athlete Project to help children in Japan discover their athletic potential.

It is not possible to talk about the future of JAL without a reference to ZIPAIR Tokyo. The new low-cost subsidiary will start operating in May with two Boeing 787-8 Dreamliners on lease from its parent company. The first announced routes will be Narita to Bangkok (BKK), starting May 14, 2020, and to Seoul (ICN) from July 1, 2020.

JAL doesn’t expect ZIPAIR to cannibalize its existing business, as both carriers will offer a differentiated value proposition. JAL will remain a full-service carrier through and through while ZIPAIR will follow a low-cost model and focus on ancillaries as a source of revenue generation. Sources at JAL insisted, though, ZIPAIR will bring “a touch of Japanese hospitality to the low-cost model.” What this means is still not clear since the final product makeup has yet to be unveiled.

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business destinations

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DOHA

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WASHINGTON, D.C.

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leisure destinations

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DURBAN

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CURAÇAO

destination one | DOHA

World Stage

COMING AND GOING

Culture, authenticity and hospitality attract global visitors to Doha. BY BRANDON SCHULTZ MARKET DAYS: Souq Waqif PHOTO: © QATAR NATIONAL TOURISM COUNCIL

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WITH UNPRECEDENTED GROWTH and an abundance of new wealth stemming almost exclusively from its abundant supply of oil and natural gas, Qatar finds itself at a cultural crossroads between the modernization brought about by rapid expansion and the protection and preservation of traditional values as it becomes a more globalized nation.

In Doha, the capital city home to nearly a third of the Qatari population, infrastructure continues to improve at an explosive rate, with 2020 anticipating the completion of Doha’s first metro system and the addition of many new

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hotels and resorts. This city only recently began incorporating street addresses in a nation that ratified its permanent constitution just less than 16 years ago in the summer of 2004. However, Doha isn’t just using its mind-blowing fortune to play catch-up; it’s looking to the future.

Take Msheireb Downtown Doha, for example. The world’s first sustainable downtown regeneration project, this revitalization of the old commercial district with a $5.5 billion budget adheres to the highest standards of green development in the creation of more than 100 new buildings for living, working, shopping,

U.S. citizens can visit visa-free but must have a passport valid for six months with two blank pages, plus proof of an onward ticket.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Arabic

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +3 Phone code: Country code: 974 Currency: Qatari riyal Key industries: Natural gas, crude oil, steel, financial services, commercial ship repair

INSIDE AND OUT: Al Bayt Stadium (top), and dhows (bottom) PHOTOS: © QATAR NATIONAL TOURISM COUNCIL

learning, worshipping and playing.

Construction began in 2010, with the impressive neighborhood set to become fully operational this year.

And then there’s the FIFA World Cup. In 2022 Qatar will host the world’s most watched live event, with new stadiums and venues directly in the capital and more beyond. For this first staging of the World Cup in the Arab world, Qatar doesn’t intend to disappoint the millions expected to attend or the billions watching from home.

Tourism is a major focus for Doha’s future, as Qatar looks forward to prosperity beyond reliance on oil and natural gas fortunes. Though many of the city’s recent advances have been in anticipation of the World Cup, Doha isn’t just propping up something like a temporary Olympic Village. Instead, its longview structural development intends to support increased tourism well into the future as Doha — and Qatar in general — comes into focus for international travelers.

Even before the athletic world launches Qatar to the forefront of the attention of nearly half the world, the small nation on the Arabian Peninsula’s eastern shore has already received a noticeable increase in global traffic. Each of the past five years has seen more international visitors than the preceding year, and all of them pass through Doha, home to the only international airport in the country. But not only international tourism drives Doha’s hospitality strategy.

The dazzling architecture and ever-increasing finedining venues consistently entice more and more Doha residents to plan staycations in their home city, reveling in the 5-star properties serving world-class cuisine, often in close proximity to museums and other cultural attractions like the Museum of Islamic Art and the National

LODGING MANDARIN ORIENTAL, DOHA One of Doha’s newest 5-star properties, Mandarin Oriental, Doha is surrounded by upscale shops and boutiques and just a 15-minute walk to major museums and sites.

Barahat Msheireb Street $$$$$

Museum of Qatar, opened in March 2019.

The majority of Doha residents are foreign nationals, with the greatest percentage hailing from South and Southeast Asian nations, and plenty more from the Levant, North Africa and East Asia. Europe, North America and Australia are represented, as are, of course, a minority of Qataris. With expats dominating the scene in Doha, not surprisingly international cuisine is highly prized in the capital. Perhaps a bit more surprising is that, until recently, foreigners couldn’t own land in Qatar.

Currently, foreign nationals can purchase land in only three zones in the entire country (two in Doha and

THE ST. REGIS DOHA The St. Regis Doha’s location on the shore of the Persian Gulf affords each room a sea view, while plush, Arabianinspired rooms and 24-hour butler service assure maximum comfort.

Doha West Bay $$$$ SHARQ VILLAGE & SPA This Ritz-Carlton resort proves as popular for secluded staycations as for international jet-setting. The private beach and ideal location just minutes from top sites make it a preferred choice.

Ras Abu Abboud Street $$$$

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WORLD-CLASS COLLECTIONS:

Museum of Islamic Art (top), and shopping at The Pearl (bottom) PHOTOS: © QATAR NATIONAL TOURISM COUNCIL

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one about 30 miles north of the city). The most famous of these, The Pearl, was the first to grant this privilege. A multibillion-dollar project, The Pearl is an artificial island roughly 2.5 miles long packed with luxury residences, high-end shopping, exotic car showrooms, gardens and cultural venues, making it a top Doha destination for visitors seeking the jet-set lifestyle.

A peninsula jutting out of a peninsula, Qatar is a nation nearly surrounded by water, and Doha takes full advantage of its coastal location on the Persian Gulf (sometimes called the Arabian Gulf).

While contributing to the country’s international reputation in ship repair, water also lends itself well to tourism. Popular Doha activities including paddle boarding at The Pearl, kayaking northward to the Al Thakira Mangrove Forest and cruising in opulent dhows around the harbor.

As Doha opens its arms to international tastes, it’s determined to hold firm to its conservative Islamic heritage and customs, careful not to sacrifice its core beliefs as global influences expand. In fact, preserving these values is a major component of one of the country’s four pillars of achieving its Qatar National Vision 2030, set forth in 2008, of becoming “an advanced society capable of sustaining its development and providing a high standard of living for its people.” It’s a balancing act well underway and sure to be tested as the world knocks at its door in 2022.

CHECKING IN WITH WALTER DEMIRCI USA Country Manager, Qatar National Tourism Council

What current trends in Doha are attracting the attention of international travelers, and what’s on the horizon for the city?

In March 2019 Qatar welcomed the National Museum of Qatar, designed by the renowned architect and Pritzker Architecture Prize winner Jean Nouvel. Qatar as a country — and especially the capital city of Doha — continues to put art and history at the cultural forefront in terms of tourism offerings. Outside of these, a rising trend within Qatar lies in the realm of sports. As part of Qatar’s ongoing efforts to grow awareness of the destination, a variety of world sporting events will be held in Doha in the upcoming years, namely the FIFA World Cup 2022. With new offerings and accommodations and the upcoming FIFA World Cup, Doha will certainly continue to see a growth in cultural tourism, especially based in the sports sector. Qatar also continues to be of interest to international visitors looking for lesser-known, off-the-beatenpath destinations. With the rise in adventure travel around the globe, Qatar’s authenticity and uniqueness are great drivers for tourism growth.

What message is Doha hoping to send to grab the attention of the world’s travelers?

Qatar’s culture, authenticity, hospitality and unique offerings lie at the center of our messaging. While still widely untouched by travelers from the United States, Qatar offers a heritage-rich destination with affordable luxury and activities for all types of travelers. Beyond the bright lights of Doha and its stunning 5-star properties, travelers can experience desert safaris, water sports in the beautiful Arabian Gulf, shopping (both luxury and bargain hunting), stunning museums and year-round festivals and activities. The city is also focusing on expanding the calendar of festivals and events to attract an even wider array of visitors.

How convenient is it for international travelers to enter Qatar for a visit to Doha?

Qatar is now the most open country in the region thanks to its visa waiver policy, allowing citizens of more than 80 countries to visit Qatar visa-free. With a passport valid for at least six months and proof of an onward ticket, waivers are provided on arrival, so no advance paperwork is needed. The United States, Canada and the United Kingdom are among these 80-plus countries.

oha yD n ike a M es, l s s e n busi and s till l e ts, s hot n a r au adirest e tr s u ses ’t don dres a d a al use tion tead rand s n i b but me, t na lding e e r st bui e or nam e. nam

DINING MORIMOTO DOHA The first Middle East restaurant from Iron Chef Morimoto, the interior is as lavish as the menu, featuring gold-studded columns and original paintings from Japanese artist Hiroshi Senju.

Mondrian Doha, West Bay Lagoon $$$$$ SPICE MARKET Inside the W Doha, Spice Market proves one of the city’s trendiest restaurants, featuring Southeast Asian cuisine in a candlelit space overlooking the Persian Gulf.

W Doha Hotel & Residences, West Bay, Zone 61 $$$$ TORO TORO In the tapas tradition of Latin American dining, Toro Toro offers a bounty of small plates highlighting pan-Latin cuisine from celebrity chef Richard Sandoval.

Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl, Costa Malaz Bay $$$$

HERITAGE AND HISTORY: National Museum of Qatar

PHOTO: © QATAR NATIONAL TOURISM COUNCIL

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DIVERSIONS While Doha explodes with cultural development to attract new international arrivals and entertain its steadily growing staycation market, creating an ever-changing map of must-see attractions, a handful of crowd-pleasers shouldn’t be missed on any first visit to the city. The Souq Waqif, Doha’s famous market, features colorful spices and locally made souvenirs ranging from clothing to art, alongside dozens of restaurants and shisha (hookah) lounges. The newly opened National Museum of Qatar, just 10 minutes from Souq Waqif by car, is an architectural masterpiece housing a collection of multisensory galleries telling the story of the Qatari people, past, present and future. Complete a Doha trip with a dune-bashing desert safari experience just beyond the city, and visit the natural wonder of Khor Al Adaid, better known as the Inland Sea, just 40 miles outside of the capital.

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NATURAL ATTRACTIONS: Dune bashing (top), and falcon at Souq Waqif PHOTOS: © QATAR NATIONAL TOURISM COUNCIL

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive only at Hamad International Airport, just south of the city and generally a 20-minute drive to the downtown area. Taxis are readily available but accept only cash, with ATMs located near the taxi pavilion. Inexpensive buses are also available and must be paid using a Karwa Smartcard that can be purchased in the airport or directly from the bus driver.

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GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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stateside | PITTSBURGH

Transformation of a City Pittsburgh turns to technology as a new economic force. BY TERESA BITLER CONFLUENCE:

Incline operating in front of the downtown skyline of Pittsburgh PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM

he 19 t 0 2 In ist nom Eco nit eU c n e gh llig bur Inte itts ost P ed -m nam hird e t e n th th ty i es i c at ble liva ted St th i n 34 U the d n rld. a e wo h t in 56

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PITTSBURGH WILL ALWAYS BE STEEL CITY, but future generations will also know it as a hub for robotics, artificial intelligence and similar technologies, thanks to a shift that began decades ago when the steel industry collapsed.

Out of necessity, slowly but steadily, the economy became less reliant on blue-collar industries and more so on white-collar ones like finance, health care and technology.

“The transformation is something people have to see,” said Mark Thomas, president, Pittsburgh Regional Alliance. “Pittsburgh has retained its character and culture and is building on its phenomenal legacy. It may have missed the skyscraper era, but it’s fast-forwarded to what will impact the next century.”

According to the Pittsburgh Technology Council, those technologies that will impact the future fall into six categories: information technology, including hardware and software; life sciences, including medical devices and health services; advanced manufacturing; advanced materials, such as chemicals and plastics; energy technology, including the production of petroleum and hydroelectricity; and environmental technology, including waste management.

Robotics, AI and autonomous vehicles fall under the umbrellas of those

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six categories, but so do countless products, processes and services most people take for granted or aren’t even aware of. It’s no wonder technology is the fastest-growing industry in Pittsburgh and accounts for roughly 23 percent of its overall workforce.

“A lot of people think of tech being just hardware and software, but it is so much more,” said Jonathan Kersting, vice president of communication and media, Pittsburgh Technology Council.

Even nontechnology industries in Pittsburgh, such as finance and education, often support the industry. For example, PNC Financial Services, a Fortune 500 company headquartered here, specializes in financing technology equipment, and several of the area’s top universities, such as Carnegie Mellon University and the University of Pittsburgh, offer renowned technology and engineering programs.

In fact, without CMU, the technology industry in Pittsburgh might not be the economic force it is today. The university was one of the first in the nation to offer a computer

science program; the first, in 1979, to offer a Ph.D. in robotics; and the first to offer an undergrad program in AI. Additionally, CMU attracted robotics pioneers like William “Red” Whittaker to Pittsburgh and, with them, investment capital.

Startups have since flourished. Some, like Argo AI, are backed by major corporations. (In Argo AI’s case, Ford Motor Co. committed $1 billion in 2017 to help fund its work on autonomous vehicle technology.) Other startups have been acquired outright by companies like Yelp, Delphi Automotive and IBM, all eager to invest in future technologies. Either way, many of these companies reside near the Strip District in what’s come to be known as Robotics Row. Not to be left out, some tech giants moved into the market.

Amazon recently added 125 new jobs to its Pittsburgh Tech Hub, and Facebook invested $15 million in a new AI lab here. Similarly, Uber has a division on Robotics Row, and Google, Bossa Nova Robotics and Microsoft have offices in the city. The influx demonstrates Pittsburgh’s influence in robotics and AI. “At the end of the day, Pittsburgh is in the top three, if not at the top, for robotics in the world,” Kersting said.

Yet despite local universities churning out graduates with robotics, AI and advanced technology degrees, Pittsburgh’s tech businesses struggle to find people capable of the specialized, cutting edge the city is known for. Locally headquartered Duolingo even recently purchased a billboard along California’s U.S. Route 101 imploring San Francisco tech workers to consider relocating. It read, “Own a home. Work in tech. Move to Pittsburgh.”

Both the Pittsburgh Technology Council and Pittsburgh Regional Alliance are trying to get the word out, especially to millennials, that Pittsburgh has opportunities they won’t find anywhere else. Not only are there jobs, Thomas pointed out, but Pittsburgh has nine county parks spanning 12,000 acres; miles of riverfront trails; four Carnegie museums; and a sophisticated food scene. It’s also a leader in sustainability and green initiatives, boasting 378 LEED-certified buildings.

However, to reach its potential, the city needs more than just tech gurus; it needs access to the world. Pittsburgh International

Airport has taken the first step and is in the midst of a $1.1 billion new terminal project that will allow it to handle more air traffic more efficiently. But the Pittsburgh Airport Innovation Campus, scheduled to complete its first phase in 2020, promises an even bigger impact as a foreign trade zone.

The designation allows foreign companies relief and exemptions from certain duties and tariffs, making it easier and more affordable for them to do business in Pittsburgh. When complete next decade, the 195-acre campus will feature office space, research and development laboratories and industrial manufacturing space.

Progress does hinge on acquiring the necessary talent, though.

Tech companies can’t grow if they can’t hire enough of the right people, Kersting said. He hopes they’ll find those people.

“I’d like to see the tech companies here grow and open offices around the world,” he said.

ARCHITECTURAL GEMS:

Artist’s conceptual rendering of Pittsburgh International Airport arrivals (above), and Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater (below) PHOTOS: © GENSLER + HDR IN ASSOCIATION WITH LUIS VIDAL + ARCHITECTS, © SEAN PAVONE DREAMSTIME.COM

SCENIC DRIVES

You don’t have to drive far to leave Pittsburgh’s technology, robotics and artificial intelligence behind. Head south on I-79 to U.S. Route 40, the nation’s first federally funded interstate highway. From there, drive east past Fort Necessity and two historic toll houses, or go west, crossing the Ohio River and continuing to Columbus.

The Ohio River Scenic Byway offers another option. Begin in East Liverpool, Ohio, and continue on Highway 7, winding along the river and through forests. If you have several days, you can drive all the way to Fort Defiance State Park in Illinois. Otherwise, turn around halfway through your day.

Fans of famed architect Frank Lloyd Wright won’t want to miss the Laurel Highland Scenic Byway. Take State Route 711 south from Seward, stopping at Fort Ligonier, to Normalville. Then continue on State Route 381 to Wright’s masterpiece, Fallingwater. Tours of the home, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, operate every day except Wednesday, March through the end of December. You can end your drive there or continue seven miles south to another Wright home, Kentuck Knob. Wright at Polymath Park, the site of two more Wright-designed homes, is also in the area. Book tours online before you head out for the day.

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mice | SEOUL

Seoul Innovation Create unique meetings and events infused with Korean culture and history. BY MARK CHESNUT CULTURAL IMMERSION: National Museum of Korea

PHOTO: © KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION

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WITH ITS ENTICING BLEND OF centuries-old traditions and decidedly 21st-century sophistication, Seoul crafted a reputation as one of the world’s top sites for meetings, incentives and other global events. According to the International Congress and Convention Association, for example, Seoul scored among the top 20 cities in the world in terms of number of international meetings hosted in 2018, ahead of Copenhagen and just behind Tokyo.

The South Korean capital lures meeting and incentive groups with various selling points. Seoul is both a governmental and an economic hub, of course. And it’s easily accessed via the sleek Incheon International Airport, which continues to upgrade its facilities. In addition, Seoul Tourism Organization is dedicated to increasing the destination’s profile with meeting and event planners through its Seoul Convention Bureau, which operates the MICE Seoul website.

Among the convention bureau’s initiatives is PLUS SEOUL, a program revamped in 2019 to make it easier for meeting planners to organize events in Seoul. The program provides

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financial support for bidding, promotion event hosting and even conference-specific apps, and it also helps planners create customized experiences and features for meeting and incentive programs. Options include teambuilding activities, branded transportation and amenities, and even on-site Korean cosmetic booths. Groups can also receive customized welcome messages at the airport baggage claim as well as gifts imbued with Korean culture and traditions.

Seoul boasts a variety of noteworthy meeting and convention facilities, including the nearly 356,000-square-foot AW Convention Center and the aT Center, offering two exhibition halls, eight meeting rooms and a 400person conference hall.

Even larger in scale is the COEX Convention & Exhibition Center, located in the popular Gangnam district. The facility hosted the G20 Seoul Summit in 2010 and encompasses more than 387,000 square feet of exhibition space with four exhibition halls; 54 meeting rooms; and a 7,000-person convention hall.

COEX is especially popular because of its location near a variety of upscale hotels such as the InterContinental Seoul COEX and Oakwood Premier COEX Center. The facility also connects to Starfield COEX Mall, billed as the largest underground shopping mall in Asia and home to COEX Aquarium, one of South Korea’s largest aquariums.

At nearby SMTOWN, a museum and performance space operated by a music production company, MICE groups can immerse themselves in the uniquely Korean musical phenomenon called K-pop. Indeed, South Korea’s contemporary cultural trends provide plenty of opportunities for unique group experiences including private musical and dance performances and even makeup classes that can transform any meeting attendee

MODERN LANDMARKS:

Gangnam Style sculpture at COEX (top), and Park Hotel Yeongdeungpo (bottom)

PHOTOS: © MARK CHESNUT, © PARK HOTEL YEONGDEUNGPO

into a pop star.

Also in the pop-music vein, the appropriately named Just KPOP Entertainment Restaurant is a dining venue available for buyouts of up to 240 people, with an international menu designed to appeal to a wide audience and a stage for presentations and seminars as well as live music, DJs and dance performances.

MICE groups looking to experience traditional culture will find even more to do in Seoul. Korea House, for example, offers an array of cultural experiences that can include cuisine, music and dance. The venue’s historic architectural style, lovely garden and multifaceted programming take visitors on a trip back in time. Entertainment includes live performances of Simcheong, an age-old Korean healing story told with music and dance, performed in a 128-seat theater. Or treat guests to Korean royal culinary delights during lavish banquets, and sign up for cooking classes and taekwondo lessons. Hanbok wearing — which allows guests to don traditional Korean garb — makes another popular activity at Korea House as well as at K-Style Hub, a cultural venue also offering Korean culinary classes.

Groups interested in traditional Korean stage performances might also consider hosting a private event at the Jeongdong Theater, a 282-seat venue that stages a variety of plays and other performances.

Discover another worthwhile site for events infused with tradition and history at the National Museum of Korea, where the eye-catchingly modern building stands in contrast to an extensive collection of exhibits documenting thousands of years of Korean history. Groups can make use of an open plaza large enough to host up to 3,000 people, as well as two lecture halls that seat 416 and 200 attendees, respectively.

For a sky-high view of the city, groups head to places like N-Seoul Tower, a 774-foot communications and observation tower, and Lotte World Tower, which at 123 stories is the tallest building in South Korea. The skyscraper houses business offices as well as Lotte Hotel World, a 469-room property with nine banquet halls. Also in the tower is Signiel Seoul, a 235-room luxury hotel with five banquet halls. Events at either hotel are guaranteed to impress with stunning views.

UNIQUE VENUES

It’s hard to miss the modern landmark of Dongdaemun Design Plaza — a strikingly futuristic cultural complex designed by Zaha Hadid, the first female recipient of the Pritzker Prize for architecture. The massive facility houses various venues available for corporate events ranging from fashion shows to product launches and conferences. Facilities include the 1,500-person Art Hall; 150-person Conference Hall; and a 13,088-square-foot 2Design Exhibition Hall perfect for displaying products. ddp.or.kr Set on the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace, the National Folk Museum of Korea houses more than 100,000 artifacts that recount the history of the Korean people, with an array of impressive exhibits depicting important eras from prehistoric times through various dynasties. Facilities at the noteworthy venue include three permanent exhibition areas, two special exhibition sites and a library. mcst.go.kr/english

Among the newest names in the local hotel scene, Park Hotel Yeongdeungpo marked the South Korea debut of Singapore-based Park Hotel Group when it opened in 2019. The 140-room property offers reasonable rates, meeting space and a central location in the city’s popular Yeongdeungpo district. No matter where groups stay in Seoul, they’re never far from impressive venues as well as unique experiences they won’t likely forget.

Namsangol Hanok Village, a collection of five restored traditional hanok buildings, allows meeting and event attendees to immerse themselves in the culture and traditions of the Joseon Dynasty, which ran from 1392 until 1910. The venue features a lovely garden as well as a theater, and groups can also arrange presentations on Korean culture, craft demonstrations and opportunities to wear the hanbok, traditional Korean formal attire. hanokmaeul.or.kr

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9–5 | GHENT

Eclectic Ghent Don’t overlook Belgium’s convivial city for business and leisure. BY RON BERNTHAL STORY OF GHENT:

Ghent City Museum with restored façades of the Bijloke Abbey PHOTO: © PHILE DEPREZ.

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FAMOUS FOR ITS BEER, artisanal chocolatiers, scenic canals and cyclists clattering over cobblestone streets, the Belgian city of Ghent resembles Amsterdam in many ways. Even the language spoken here is Dutch … specifically, Flemish Dutch.

But Ghent (Gent in Dutch), located in the Flanders region of Belgium, just 35 minutes by train from French-speaking Brussels, offers visitors a more relaxed and serene atmosphere than Amsterdam, with less-crowded bike paths and waterways and non-existent lines at museums and popular restaurants.

Many business travelers wake up on their first morning in the city at Hotel NH Gent Belford. Located just two minutes’ walk from Sint-Baafsplein, one of the best-preserved medieval city

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centers in Europe, this 174-room hotel also lies within walking distance of Het Pand Congress Center and 10 minutes by taxi from Gent International Convention Center.

For the business traveler wishing to host colleagues for a morning breakfast meeting, NH Gent Belford offers two boardrooms (up to 12 persons each) or the outdoor patio during summer months for catered meals. It also features a private, vaulted cellar for entertaining clients and business associates. Traffic noise is never an issue, as the main entrance is located in the city’s pedestrian zone.

Additional deluxe hotel accommodations include the 143-room Ghent Marriott Hotel, located along the canal-like Leie River, within walking distance of many of Ghent’s popular meeting venues and historic attractions. The property offers nine event rooms suitable for smallto mid-sized conferences and board meetings, as well as the Midtown Grill steak restaurant for lunch or dinner.

Book a post-breakfast business meeting at the nearby Het Pand Congress Center, with 10 function rooms, three featuring natural light. Het Pand, one of the most frequently rented locations offered by Ghent University, is nicely situated on the banks of the Leie, which winds through the city’s historic center. The Congress Center, once a 15th-century Dominican monastery, houses several museum collections, exhibition

rooms and a lovely restaurant with professional catering services.

After a morning meeting, stroll across the Leie to ABA-Jour, a small bar/restaurant with a good selection of Belgian beer and food. Sit on the quiet, riverside back terrace or at an umbrella table on the street side. This little, off-the-beaten-path spot proves perfect for either a solo lunch or a meal with local business contacts.

Before an afternoon meeting, save time to do some sightseeing by foot, bicycle or on one of the small boats offering informative and narrated 40minute tours along the Leie. Float past the historic structures of the Graslei (the medieval port), the old meat market and the steep walls of the Castle of Counts, constructed in 1180.

Arrange a meeting at the centrally located Capitole Theatre, a 1930sera cinema with function rooms, bars and a restaurant, all with stunning Art Deco décor. You’ll find another good daytime meeting venue at the Museum of Industry, a former cotton mill in a red-brick building near the Leie. Permanent exhibits show how Ghent thrived on textiles, and the museum’s highest floor provides a great panoramic view. The museum’s café, Bar Mitte, offers good food and a sun terrace.

The Flanders region is known for its delicious, locally made culinary treats, and Ghent is no exception. Founded in 1880, the oldest bakery in Ghent, Oud Huis Himschoot, proves a great place to pick up bread, croissants or pastries. Try the popular mastel, a small, round bread similar to brioche, with cinnamon added. Locals bring it home, cut it in half, put butter and sugar in the middle and heat it. But for visitors without the extra ingredients, it still makes a delicious snack.

Daskalidès, a family-owned store, has made chocolate in Ghent since 1931, including the popular merveilleux, chocolate on a base of hazelnut paste. Tiny Petite Normandie offers baguettes; Belgian Gouda; strong-smelling Herve cheese; and creamy Passendale, named after the Flemish village of Passchendaele. Also try the cone-shaped purple candy known as neuzekes (little noses), sold from street carts.

At the Groentenmarkt, a vegetable market since the 18th century, Vve Tierenteyn-Verlent has sold its own mustard in the same location since 1790; the thick, handmade condiment has been a local favorite for 230 years. Across the square, look for Het Groot Vleeshuis, Ghent’s former Great Butcher’s Hall, where dozens of salted Ganda hams, a traditional Flanders specialty, hang to dry from the wooden ceiling timbers in a restored l5th-century building. At the modern pub attached to Vleeshuis order fresh slices of Ganda and tall glasses of Belgian beer.

If time allows, visit the Old Dockyards district, to the east of the city center. This former port area had fallen into disrepair, but a revitalization project transformed the once gritty area into a vibrant neighborhood with new housing, office/retail spaces and cultural amenities.

Known locally as Oude Dokken – Kaaimuur Achterhoek Oost, the district now hums with trendy galleries, cafés and maritime-related public art. For innovative brand launches or eclectic product presentations, the new Noah Gent Lunch Bar & Event Space offers a design-savvy boat with creative event spaces on the Handelsdok canal.

BELGIAN STYLE: Brasserie ABA-Jour sign (top), Ghent Marriott Hotel guestroom suite (middle), and design artifacts at the Design Museum Gent (bottom) PHOTOS: © RON BERNTHAL, © GHENT MARRIOTT HOTEL, © DESIGN MUSEUM GENT

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after 5 | CORNWALL

Beneath the Cornish Moon Sip a local brew by the sea while day fades into night. BY DEBRA BOKUR

CORNWALL’S EMERGENCE as a tourist destination shifted the focus from its past in tin and copper mining to its beguiling coastline, fresh seafood scene and collection of entertainment options. And while England’s southwesternmost county may be all paintbox harbors and charming villages by day, the quaintness takes on a nighttime edge worth exploring.

Cornwall is home to a selection of local beers and ales that consistently garner awards. Doom Bar from Sharp’s Brewery and Betty Stogs from Skinners in Truro are two of the best. St. Austell Brewery puts out its perennially popular Tribute Cornish Ale as well as the scandalous Rattlers Cider, a beverage earning notoriety for the shocking speed with which it affects its drinker.

Enjoy your drink like the locals, at one of Cornwall’s lovely historic pubs. The whitewashed Old Ferry Inn in the small village of Bodinnick and the Pandora Inn in Mylor were both built during the 13th century and offer plenty in the way of charm and atmosphere. Insiders looking for a more modern vibe can embrace the scene at LGBTQ+-friendly establishments known for good

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music, including Basement and Vertigo Truro.

Plan a night out in Penzance at the open-air Minack Theatre, a unique performance venue where live comedy, drama and everything in between takes place on a section of dramatic cliff. Tiered seating faces the sea and a rocky apron thrusting outward toward the churning waves.

The Hidden Hut at Porthcurnick Beach, located close to Portscatho and St. Mawes on the Roseland Peninsula, has long been a local magnet at lunchtime, but those in search of dinner can take part in a seasonal Feast Night. Each feast features a different dish; attendees purchase advance tickets and show up with their own plates, cutlery and wine to enjoy dinner alfresco.

For indoor seating, you can linger over dinner at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in Port Isaac, where the team in the only Michelin double-starred kitchen in Cornwall does near-magical things with sustainable fish, shellfish and seaweed. There’s one set lunch and one set dinner menu offered; each is a multicourse affair with matching wine flights. The tiny seaside eatery offers fabulous views of the coastline, but reserve your table early.

COASTAL EDGE:

The Minack Theatre (left), and Doom Bar beer from Sharp’s Brewery (right) PHOTOS: © THE MINACK THEATRE, © DENISMART - DREAMSTIME.COM

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t or p ir A U.S.

2 YEARS IN A ROW!

With 22 nonstop flights, new restaurants, premium lounges, easy parking, and fast curb to gate – what’s not to love about an airport that defines what airport travel should be?

neighborhoods | DURBAN

Sweet Spot The Point Waterfront breathes new life into Durban. BY SHERYL NANCE-NASH

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NORTHERN CAPE

WESTERN CAPE

DURBAN, WITH HALF A MILLION PEOPLE, is the largest city in South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province. It’s located on the Natal Bay of the Indian Ocean and an hour southeast of Johannesburg by plane. While Durban is known for its beaches, botanic gardens, sites like UShaka Marine World and the world’s tallest swing — the Big Rush Big Swing, where you can soar high at Moses Mabhida Stadium — a sweet spot called the Point Waterfront is taking on a life of its own.

The first Saturday of each month you can browse the I Heart Market, where you’ll find some of the best from locals, be it fashion, jewelry, art, vintage items, ceramics, plants, natural skincare products or home goods. Then there’s the fantastic food. The I Heart Market makes a great place to spend an afternoon.

Robsons Real Beer & Food Factory offers another reason to visit the Point Waterfront. Robsons craft brews its beer in house. You’ll dig the atmosphere, high ceilings, sports playing on mega TVs and a beer garden out back for chilling with your brew. Don’t expect typical pub fare. Beer is king, but so is food. You’ll understand if you have the Gravy Train, slow-cooked barbecue brisket, shaved and served with braised onion and peppered beer gravy with aioli slaw and cheesy beer bread. Or try a pizza called The Gary, slow-roasted duck with fig jam, spinach, red peppers and camembert.

Come nightfall, the place to be and be seen is The Chairman, a jazz bar for the sophisticated. Don’t come in jeans; dress to impress.

Lose yourself in the eclectic environment, architecture, interior

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design, museum-worthy art and artifacts, dim lighting and diverse international crowd. Have a cigar if you like and enjoy the sounds of top and emerging musicians. Indulge in cocktails like The Chairman’s Special; a drink called Surrender Your Booty, made with Bombay gin, martini and Cointreau with strong ginger, pineapple and lemongrass flavors; or Kind of Blue, blending Johnny Walker Blue, gin, tequila and Cointreau flavored with fresh grapefruit. The vibe is New York City Greenwich Village cool and hip. But you’ll know where you are with a menu that includes delights like a Mozambiquean margherita pizza and grilled ostrich boerewors sausage.

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EASTERN CAPE

CROWD PLEASERS: Atlantic bottlenose dolphin show at UShaka Marine World (top), and Moses Mabhida Stadium (bottom) PHOTOS: © ANDRE MARITZ - DREAMSTIME.COM © KIERRAN ALLEN DREAMSTIME.COM

friends & family | FALKLAND ISLANDS

Epic Encounters Escape to the Falkland Islands for the ultimate wildlife adventure.

BY RICHARD NEWTON

ave nds h cy, a l k l a en The F own curr nd a r thei the Falkl d, un ds po 1:1 n a l s I es chang itish x e h whic h the Br nd sa wit ollar ted D . d poun are accep in s o eur s ome shop y. s le n in Sta 66

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THERE’S EVERYWHERE ELSE, and then there’s the Falkland Islands. This almost treeless archipelago, sitting in the South Atlantic 300 miles from mainland South America, is a place like no other. Whichever way you arrive, your journey will be long and possibly rough, and you will finally set foot in a wild, blustery place containing 3,000 people; 700,000 sheep; a million penguins; and 20,000 land mines.

The figure that will impact you most is the number of people. This is a territory approximately the size of Connecticut with the population of a village. As outsiders, you and your family will be noticed … and welcomed.

A recent boom in tourism has largely been stimulated by a dramatic rise in cruise ship arrivals during the southern summer (October to March). Visiting as part of a cruise provides a flavor of the islands, but you miss out on the immersive experience of staying in local accommodation and becoming part of the community.

By air, weekly flights arrive from Santiago, Chile, with LATAM. Once a month

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INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at RAF Mount Pleasant, 33 miles southwest of Stanley. There are currently regular flights with the RAF from Brize Norton, U.K., and with LATAM from Santiago, Chile, and São Paulo, Brazil (seasonal). There is no fixed schedule for domestic flights; routes and times are determined a day in advance. Bus transfers connect the airport directly to hotels and bed and breakfasts in Stanley. Vehicle rental (usually Land Rovers or Land Cruisers) is also available. Air passengers leaving on a LATAM flight must pay a £25 (about $32) departure tax, not included in the ticket.

U.S. citizens do not require a visa for visits of up to 30 days.

WILD THINGS:

(Left to right) King penguins at Volunteer Point, the whale bone arch in front of Christ Church Cathedral in Port Stanley, minefield site, and elephant seal pups PHOTOS: © BEN GOODE - DREAMSTIME .COM, © JASON ROW - DREAMSTIME.COM, © MATT FOWLER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © JEREMY RICHARDS - DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING CARCASS ISLAND LODGE Family-run, this traditional farm house offers five en suite rooms located within walking distance of a large penguin colony.

Carcass Island $$$

the flights route via Argentina in order to pick up the families of Argentinian soldiers who died on the islands during the Falklands War. The war continues to overshadow life here, not least in the form of all those land mines. The British Royal Air Force operates two flights a week from Brize Norton airbase near Oxford, England; civilians (including American citizens) can book seats through the Falkland Islands Government Office in London. The round-trip flight currently costs £2,222 (about $2,910) for adults and £1,111 (about $1,455) for children.

You will arrive first in Stanley, the capital, located on the eastern tip of the largest of the islands, East Falkland. This charming settlement of colorful tin-roofed houses boasts the Christ Church Cathedral, one of the territory’s few stone buildings. A distinctive arch made from whale bones stands in the churchyard.

An excellent museum housed in the historic dockyard provides an overview of Falklands history, which has lately been dominated by the sovereignty dispute between Britain and Argentina. For Argentina, these are Islas Malvinas.

The dispute flared into war after Argentina invaded in 1982.

The museum includes many photographs and artifacts from that conflict which claimed the lives of 255 British soldiers, 649 Argentinians and three islanders. The Argentinian war cemetery lies in Darwin, 57 miles by gravel road from Stanley.

Most of the British dead were returned to Britain, though there are a number of memorials in Stanley and the hinterland.

The recent human history is unavoidable, but for many visitors the big attraction remains the wildlife. In common with the Galápagos Islands, wild animals here respond in a remarkably relaxed way to people. For kids, the chance to interact with penguins proves a particular highlight.

Take the family to one of the most popular wildlife sites, Bluff Cove, a 30-minute drive from Stanley. For Britons, the cove is synonymous with an air attack on British landing craft that claimed 59 lives during the Falklands War, though lately it achieved worldwide renown as one of the few accessible places in which it is possible to see five species of penguin: king, gentoo, Magellanic, rockhopper and macaroni. In addition, whales and dolphins often swim offshore, and sea lions and elephant seals also occasionally visit the beaches. Facilities at

MALVINA HOUSE HOTEL Named after the daughter of the original owner and not connected to the Argentinian name for the islands, this 72-room hotel is a landmark of the Stanley waterfront.

3 Ross Road, Stanley, East Falkland $$$ SEA LION LODGE This comfortable 12-room hotel provides a base for overnight visits to Sea Lion Island. Accommodation is full board; drinks are extra.

Sea Lion Island $$$

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ON AN EXCURSION:

Tourist vehicle on Carcass Island (top), two Magellanic penguins (bottom left), and a striated caracara (bottom right) PHOTOS: © STEVE ALLEN - DREAMSTIME .COM, © DALIA KVEDARAITE - DREAMSTIM E.COM, © MARCINSL1987 - DREAMSTIME.

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the cove include a tea room, a museum chronicling rural life on the islands and a souvenir shop.

Some wildlife sites, situated close to minefields left over from the war, are fenced and clearly marked. Penguins, not heavy enough to trigger the mines, often wander within the danger zones.

The archipelago comprises 778 islands, some of which can be reached by light aircraft operated by the Falklands Islands Government Air Service. Due to changeable weather conditions, schedules are confirmed a day in advance.

Carcass Island, off the west coast of West Falkland, provides one memorable excursion. The flight to the island, privately owned by the McGill family, takes 60–90 minutes, depending on stops along the way. Carcass (named after a ship, HMS Carcass, which visited in the 18th century) is especially noted for its Magellanic penguins as well as bird species such as the striated caracara and the ruddy-headed goose.

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The island operates as a working farm (sheep and cattle), but tourism increasingly provides the dominant source of income.

Sea Lion Island, off the south coast of East Falkland, offers the best place to see marine mammals, where 95 percent of the archipelago’s elephant seal population resides, along with sea lions and, offshore, killer whales.

Although the Falklands feel remote, a sculpture trail in Stanley puts their remoteness in perspective. A 1:1 billion scale model of the solar system begins, on the waterfront, with a representation of the sun. As you head west, you periodically encounter other models of the planets, with distant Pluto located 3.6 miles away on the top of a hill called Mount Tumbledown (the location of one of the final battles of the war). It’s a full day’s hike to do the entire route. With the increasing intervals between planets, you come to realize the Falkland Islands are not so far away after all.

MALVINA HOUSE RESTAURANT On the wide-ranging menu, the beerbattered fish and chips is a dish as British as the red phone boxes on the street outside.

Malvina House Hotel, 3 Ross Road, Stanley, East Falkland $$ THE NARROWS BAR & RESTAURANT Sample wholesome pub food, including a range of burgers (beef, fried chicken, lamb) and seafood dishes.

39 Ross Road, Stanley, East Falkland $$ WATERFRONT KITCHEN CAFÉ A great place to try Falklands-raised meat: steak and racks of lamb. The eclectic menu also includes Italian, Indian and Thai options.

Waterfront Boutique Hotel, 36 Ross Road, Stanley, East Falkland $$

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tours | CUSCO

Sacred Valley

Delve into the Inca kingdom and Andean villages on a Peruvian immersion tour. BY TIM LEFFEL WHEN FRANCISCO PIZARRO and his 167 men defeated the Incas with guns, steel and horses in the 1500s, they conquered a short-lived but extensive empire. The Inca god-king ruled an area that stretched from Quito to Santiago.

The Spanish repurposed many of the Inca buildings in Cusco, but the original handiwork endures in the giant cut stones that fit perfectly together. Some luxury hotels, such as Palacio del Inka and JW Marriott El Convento, contain original stone walls dating back to when the New World was still untouched by Europeans.

One of the most important battles between the Spanish and the Incas happened at Saqsaywaman fortress, just a short taxi ride from Cusco. Many local residents still consider the immense structure a sacred site, and it hosts the grand Inti Raymi festival each June.

The Sacred Valley of Peru is home to many other Inca fortresses, temple sites and citadels. The most famous — Machu Picchu — lies at the end of the valley, but many others appear on daytrip itineraries. Those in a hurry may visit Pisac, Chinchero, Moray and Ollantaytambo in one loop. It’s also possible to get to Machu Picchu and back in one day on the Belmond Hiram Bingham Express train from outside of Cusco, but what’s the rush?

The experience proves much more magical if you stay in the Sacred Valley instead, making it possible to mix visits to the monuments with a deeper dive into the local culture and the Andes Mountains.

Hundreds of tour companies run the standard four-day Inca Trail trek, but a more luxurious option — with real beds instead of tent camping — involves taking the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu with Mountain Lodges of Peru. You stay in small hotels along the route and can enjoy a hot shower each night. The company also runs a Lares Adventure trip along the Weavers’ Route in the mountains. Travelers pass through Andean villages, see high mountain lagoons and visit Inca ruins like Ankasmarca, where they may be the only people there. The tour includes a trek to the ruins and terraces of Pisac on foot from the opposite direction of the tour buses. It visits Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu on the last two days.

Another immersion option allows for a stay at the Explora Valle Sagrado lodge in the Sacred Valley and use of it as a base.

Its all-inclusive packages offer a selection of 30 active tours, including visits to Machu Picchu, Chinchero, the terraces of Moray and Ollantaytambo. Top-notch guides lead hiking and biking trips, and a comfortable lodge, a spa and an open bar wait at the end of the day.

MIGHTY FORTRESS:

Saqsaywaman, a citadel on the northern outskirts of the city of Cusco PHOTO: © LUCA ROGGERO - DREAMSTIME.COM

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the old of h g n o t str he las t the s a ed to ow l b f mba. m r a e lcaba i tayt lead V n s a t f l i l O ent o fore ettlem om be s d g e l n i g n jun Inca k Amazo

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Six Senses plans to open a new resort in the Galápagos Islands. It will focus on restoring and maintaining the ecosystem.

bucket list | EASTER ISLAND

Monumental Magic Easter Island intrigues with its mysterious stone statues.

HISTORY AND MYSTERY: (Left to right) Playa Anakena, close-up of a statue, Orongo ceremonial village, and the view on the way to town PHOTOS: © CKIM FOLEY MACKINNON

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THERE IS NEVER A MOMENT on Rapa Nui, or Easter Island, as it’s commonly called, when you aren’t intensely aware of exactly where you are. The tiny island in the middle of the ocean is so far removed from the mainland — about 2,200 miles from Chile — it is one of the most remote places on the planet. Its mysterious moai, the giant heads that graced countless magazine covers and intrigued explorers for centuries, fascinated me for as long as I can remember. I was young the first time I learned about them, and they seemed one of the most exotic things in the world. I vowed to see them in person one day.

When I finally got the chance to visit, I was thrilled. Nothing you see in books, magazines or films can do them justice. The carved stone blocks average 13 feet in height and weigh about 14 tons. No media can convey the intense feelings the moai spark as you stand underneath them in person, gazing up in wonder.

It’s humbling and puzzling to think of the effort it took to carve and erect these giant figures, for purposes which we may never understand.

Rapa Nui has approximately 900 moai you can visit. Since the

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BY KIM FOLEY MACKINNON

island measures roughly 64 square miles, you can easily take in all the sites in a few days. Considering there are only three roads, getting lost is pretty much impossible, but book an island tour through your hotel or a tour operator (which I did) for the best way to get around. It eliminates the need for a car and provides the ideal opportunity to have a local on hand to talk about the history of the island, the moai and the culture.

The Museo Antropológico Padre Sebastián Englert offers another intriguing introduction to the island, with a comprehensive look at the island’s history, or what is known of it, and some of the challenges it faces, from overtourism to climate change. It also boasts one of the few female moai on the island.

The prevailing theory of the island’s history at this time, garnered from oral tales and outsiders’ observations, is that King Hotu Matu’a and his family sailed here sometime in the 10th century, most likely from Polynesia, landed on the beach at the north shore and made the island their home. But no one really knows the exact timeline because there are no written records.

Mystery also surrounds the reason the moai were built, with most

rk. tional Pa a N i u N f Rapa by re part o a s e nvenience it o s c l a in ic d g n lo a rchaeo ve time land. island’s a days. Sa e h 0 t 1 f r o when you o f t ll r A s o s p e c ir c a a ou t at the et gives y our ticke y g in Your tick s a h purc

scholars thinking they were meant to honor ancestors or chiefs. And, finally, no one knows exactly how the moai were constructed. Considering they were most likely carved and placed around the island between the 10th and 16th centuries, it must have proved a monumental task for such a small community with the tools they had at the time.

It’s simply breathtaking to visit the Rano Raraku quarry, the source of most of the stone used in making the moai.

You’ll find about 400 moai in all stages of carving scattered around the quarry, looking as if a giant was interrupted in his workshop and just stepped away for a moment. I saw one moai prone and still connected to the stone wall, as well as the only statue in a kneeling position among the hundreds of figures.

Seven restored moai called Ahu Nau Nau stand at Anakena Beach in Rapa Nui National Park, the beach where King Hotu Matu’a is said to have landed. Other sites across the island include Ahu Tongariki, where 15 moai stand in a line on a 200-foot ahu (platform). They face a large ceremonial area where you can see petroglyphs of turtles and fish.

Rano Kau, a huge volcano on the southern tip of the island, boasts a crater measuring a mile across and a lake nearly covered over by reeds. The opposite side of the crater crumbled a bit, revealing a crescent of the deep blue ocean beyond. Nearby lies the ceremonial village of Orongo, thought to have been built in the late 1600s and used by locals until 1866. The Rapa Nui people occupied the village only during the ceremony honoring the god Make-Make and was the base of operations for the birdman competition. You can visit several other sites, as the national park encompasses about 40 percent of the island, but no matter where you go, you will encounter more moai.

Easter Island is hands down one of the most special places I have ever been. As a writer, it’s my job to convey a sense of a destination, but as with other utterly unique spots in the world such as the Grand Canyon, the Galápagos Islands and the Taj Mahal, sometimes words alone don’t do a place justice. If you can, you have to see it for yourself to appreciate the magic.

INFO TO GO

LATAM Airlines is the only airline serving Mataveri International Airport (IPC), also known as Isla de Pascua Airport, on Easter Island. Direct flights arrive a few times a week from Santiago, Chile (SCL), and once a week from Papeete, Tahiti (PPT); either route takes less than six hours.

Most hotels offer complimentary round-trip shuttle service to and from the airport, complete with a lei upon landing.

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kicking back | CURAÇAO

Caribbean Cool

A trip to Curaçao transcends a day at the beach. BY ELYSE GLICKMAN WHEREVER THERE’S A TROPICAL ISLAND, images like blue skies, sandy white beaches, palm trees, exotic flowers, sunsets and a silhouetted couple will appear in its promotional materials … and why not? The formula works well, promising world-weary travelers an escape from the everyday, whether it happens to be in Hawai’i, Tahiti, Indonesia, the Maldives or the Caribbean. Curaçao — which completes the ABC island chain with Aruba and Bonaire in the southern Caribbean — proves no exception. And yes, of course it has all of the requisite ingredients, along with golf, spas and waterfront resorts of every description.

While we’re discussing water, Curaçao offers a beach for every type of visitor. Playa Lagun and Jan Thiel are noted diving destinations. Easy-going, no-frills Playa Piscado and Playa Grandi in Westpunt (as far west as one can drive) are known for turtles, snorkeling, working fishermen and local patronage.

Amenities abound at family-friendly, palapa-lined Blue Bay Beach, Playa Porto Marie (near the town of Sint Willibrordus) and Cas Abao Beach. Kleine Knip, Grote Knip and Playa Kenepa Grandi prove essential for heavenly sunsets, romantic moments and reflection. Adventurous, outdoorsy types and animal lovers, meanwhile, will want to explore trailheads near many of the aforementioned beaches as well as dedicate at least one full day to exploring national nature preserve Christoffelpark via guided safaris or its eight hiking trails.

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INFO TO GO

Curaçao International Airport, also known as Hato International Airport, the island’s primary airport, lies on the island’s north shore about eight miles from the capital, Willemstad.

Airlines with routes to the island include American Airlines, JetBlue, United Airlines, KLM, Copa and Air Canada. Visitors staying a week will want to book a car in advance in order to explore the island. Familiar companies such as Alamo, Eurocar and Enterprise have offices at Hato as well as Willemstad.

Most stores and restaurants in Willemstad and resorts accept major credit cards. However, as gas stations and many of the most interesting casual dining spots accept cash only, visitors should withdraw a sufficient amount of the local currency, the Netherlands Antilles guilder.

CURAÇAO KALEIDOSCOPE: (Left to right) Colorful buildings, Playa Porto Mari sign, local paintings at the market, a goat near a beach, and Papagayo Beach Club PHOTOS: © CURAÇAO TOURIST BOARD

LODGING BAOASE LUXURY RESORT CURAÇAO Curaçao’s pinnacle resort features 23 immaculate suites (some with plunge pools) plus a plush Caribbean-style villa for up to eight guests on its private Isla Kiniw near Spanish Waters Bay. 2 Winterswijkstraat, Willemstad $$$$$

Surf, sand and nature aside, Curaçao also offers a different kind of paradise for travelers who would never book a beach destination when left to their own devices. The island contains a surprising wealth of museums, a long-established arts scene, cosmopolitan neighborhoods and villages, and a treasure trove of architectural delights. Willemstad’s skyline and harbor entry (featuring the Queen Emma floating bridge) received UNESCO heritage status in 1997, since then becoming one of the most photographed capital cities in the world.

Although the famed buildings lining Willemstad’s busy Punda neighborhood suggest “Amsterdam by the Sea,” the island’s cultured personality reveals itself as one strolls down its side streets and ventures into other neighborhoods such as Pietermaai Smal, Scharloo and Otrabanda and villages beyond the city center. In addition to the Dutch, whose first trade ships arrived at the dawn of the 16th century, other groups placed their definitive cultural mark, from the Arawak people who migrated to the island from the South American mainland in centuries prior to Antillean Creole blacks tracing their roots to Africa. East Indian, Surinamese, English, Spanish and French settlers also contributed to the mix defining the island today.

Much of the island’s character and cultural institutions, however, result from its Sephardic/Portuguese Jewish community, first arriving in 1651 at the height of the Inquisition.

Although the population today is predominantly Roman Catholic, many people born and raised on Curaçao are keenly aware of what its most prominent Jewish families contributed to their way of life.

“The Jews were welcomed on Curaçao because the Dutch knew they could help build the local economy,” says guide Emlyn Pietersz. “They moved on from agriculture during their settlement period into other industries … providing employment to the locals in the process. They are also credited for bridging the gap between black and white residents and being the glue holding communities together because of their value of teaching everybody to respect one another.”

It’s a legacy any visitor can appreciate. While Punda makes a natural starting point for a Curaçao vacation with its paint box assortment of galleries, boutiques and cafés, a visit to Mikve Israel Emanuel Synagogue, the oldest temple still in regular operation in the Americas, since 1732, brings depth and context to everything else around it. The adjoining Curaçao Jewish Museum, redesigned during 2018–2019 to be relatable for people from all backgrounds, features a new timeline structure in front of the courtyard entrance that puts the island’s entire history in context with the rest of the world.

Scharloo, a short walk over the Wilhelmina Drawbridge, is emerging as Willemstad’s boho-chic quarter with its mix

RENAISSANCE CURAÇAO RESORT & CASINO The location at the historic Rif Fort offers a prime spot for those wanting a city getaway, with many of the island’s most significant sites, shopping, top restaurants and waterfront activities steps away.

Baden Powellweg 1, Willemstad $$$–$$$$ SANTA BARBARA BEACH & GOLF RESORT The 2,000-acre property brings only-in-Curaçao outdoor pleasures to one gorgeous spot, including a top-tier tennis facility, the Pete Dye-designed Old Quarry Golf Course, excursion packages, a kids’ program and, naturally, white-sand beaches.

Santa Barbara Plantation, Porta Blancu, Nieuwpoort $$$$

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CREATIVE SIDE:

Nena Sanchez Gallery PHOTO: © CURAÇAO TOURIST BOARD

DINING DEJA VU Sophisticated French classics like escargots Bourguignon and Chateaubriand flaunt a Caribbean flourish.

Try zesty originals including the Chef’s Guacamole Explosion (incorporating funchi, a crunchy spinach polenta) and locally caught fish. Fantastic mixology, too.

Pietermaai 80, Willemstad $$$$ FORT NASSAU RESTAURANT Enjoy locally inspired cocktails and exquisitely prepared dishes, particularly grouper and shrimp, served against a panoramic backdrop of Willemstad and the Bay. Lovingly built into the historic landmark, the venue adds depth to dinner.

Fort Nassauweg, Willemstad $$$–$$$$ GOUVERNEUR DE ROUVILLE RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Get a bright start to the day in the café with fresh and flavorful breakfast sandwiches and plates and the Handelskade skyline view. The former historic home comes alive at night with its modern approach to Caribbean recipes.

9F De Rouvilleweg, Otrobanda Waterfront, Willemstad $$–$$$

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of restored and converted Baroque mansions (including the notable Wedding Cake House, housing the National Archive of the Dutch Caribbean); murals by internationally renowned Curaçao artists Francis Sling and Garrick Marchena; local hangout bars and eateries like Beyglz; and boutiques like Integra Natural, selling handcrafted bath and skincare goods.

It is worth renting a car, meanwhile, to visit Landhuis Bloemhof, a museum outside the downtown core. Under the direction of owner May Alvarez Correa Henriquez, the former plantation transformed into a sprawling and dynamic arts center. After years of training in Europe followed by her own successful career, the writer and patron of the arts set out to provide talented island artists with few resources a place to perfect their craft and display their work. Daughter Nicole Henrique now presides over the museum, which continues May’s mission of supporting Curaçao artists as an atelier and display space. It also houses Cathedral of Thorns, an internationally acclaimed work in progress led by Dutch artist Herman van Bergen. At the adjoining Number Ten, ranked as the best coffee house outside downtown Willemstad, guests can enjoy exotic warm drinks, fresh-pressed juices and pastries as May and husband Max did amid modern canvases, sculptures, informal garden landscaping and eclectic furnishings.

Other one-of-a-kind cultural institutions include the Kura Hulanda Museum (an emotional experience documenting the African slave trade); the Curaçao Maritime Museum; and Landhuis Rooi Catootje, filled with the belongings of the Maduro family, one of the island’s most prominent Jewish families. The adjacent Mongui Maduro Museum & Library contains numerous books and records on Jewish and general Curaçao history in a modern, climate-controlled environment.

Those traveling with kids will be delighted to discover the Children’s Museum, occupying the former home of one of

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the last members of the Maduro family, just a few steps away.

Curaçao’s food scene also expresses lush eclecticism and internationalism. Even with an incredible array of restaurants at all price points, visitors should first plan to visit Plasa Bieu (The Old Market — touted as the island’s first food hall).

Vendors whose families held the various stalls for generations peddle a variety of simple but tasty dishes built from original recipes going back decades. These blend influences from Africa, the Netherlands, Portugal (via the Sephardic Jews) and others. Several fine-dining spots (particularly those listed) and unforgettable casual spots such as La Bohème, Beyglz, Iguana Café, Bali Mixed Asian Lunchroom and Williwood also do a good job of putting the island’s captivating melting pot of flavors and influences on display.

As Blue Curaçao orange liqueur is one of the island’s most famous exports, it’s no surprise the Senior & Co. Distillery is one of the most visited attractions. Beyond samples and branded merchandise, display cases of memorabilia tell the story of another of the island’s most prominent Sephardic Jewish families.

Anybody who appreciates live music and craft cocktails, however, will want to dive right in to the local nightlife. While Willemstad hops almost every night of the week, the Thursday night institution, Punda Vibes, infuses an extra shot of adrenaline into a night out. After this wraps for the night or the main restaurants close, the party continues at Mundo Bizarro, where imbibers can kick back on wrought iron chairs or old sofas placed on the sidewalk. As its menu includes a large selection of rum and the ambience evokes 1950s Havana, it’s a good place to indulge one’s inner Ernest Hemingway. Other fun hangouts include the Blackjack Lounge and Bar, known for its retro tiki creations; the classic rock-themed 27 Bar & Terrace; and Cuba Shango Bar & Lounge.

Global Airport Industry Leading Value Creator

Incheon International Airport is taking a great leap forward as a Global Leading Value Creator with its new value proposition.

lgbtq+

Now Playing Film festivals celebrate the unique voices of the LGBTQ+ community. BY MARK CHESNUT THE LGBTQ+ COMMUNITY is exceptionally diverse, and nowhere is that more evident than in the creative world, where unique voices from across the spectrum find expression. One of the best ways to witness noteworthy creative work — while also enjoying some well-deserved vacation time — is to plan a trip around an LGBTQ+ film festival. These events take place in cities large and small around the globe, providing unbeatable access to a wide number of films both new and old.

In England, top film festivals include BFI Flare: London LGBTQ+ Film Festival, which takes place in March with a variety of screenings, presentations and other events. Farther north, the Queer Media Festival in Manchester receives support from Manchester Pride, the largest LGBTQ+ pride celebration in northern England. Cinema, animation and other forms are among the featured formats for the November event.

Paris is home to multiple LGBTQ+ film festivals including Chéries Chéris, occurring each November, and Cineffable, an international lesbian and feminist film festival.

In the United States, Los Angeles proves a logical hub for film lovers, especially during the July Outfest Los Angeles. The nation’s other big creative hot spot, New York City, hosts NewFest in October.

Film festivals blossomed around the country, as a matter of fact. Managed by Denver Film, a nonprofit cultural arts organization, CinemaQ runs each July. In Rochester, New York, ImageOut draws crowds every October and will celebrate its 28th anniversary this year with showings of established and rising talents from the world of film. Nearby, the city of Ithaca — home to Cornell University and Ithaca College — hosts Quinfolk, a film, arts and mental health festival also taking place in October, with an emphasis on queer and trans people of color.

Even the relatively small city of Sarasota, Florida, hosts an annual event that showcases LGBTQ+ films.

The festively titled Fabulous Independent Film Festival takes place every September, and the Lido Beach Resort and The Resort at Longboat Key Club list among the hotel properties promoting the event to their guests.

After all, there’s nothing wrong with a sunset toast on the beach after a day embraced by the flicker of the big screen.

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THE BIG SCREEN Queer Media Festival screening of Femme (above); and HOME, host of Queer Media Festival (left) PHOTOS: © MARKETING MANCHESTER, © MACHTELD SCHOEP

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airport update

Major Overhaul LAX begins massive modernization to meet the challenge of rising traffic. BY ERICH MARTIN

TERMINAL TRANSFORMATION: LAX transit area with shops PHOTO: © USA PYON DREAMSTIME.COM

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LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT might not be the biggest or busiest airport in the United States, but it is probably the most iconic, thanks to its inclusion in countless films, television episodes and songs since the 1960s. Each year the airport serves more than 80 million domestic and international passengers.

As 2020 gets rolling, LAX travelers are getting used to major modifications introduced at the end of 2019. The biggest change to the airport in some time, LAX-it, provides a space away from the terminals where travelers hail taxis and rideshares, presenting a temporary upheaval for some regular LAX travelers. Pronounced “L.A. exit,” this initiative represents the airport’s effort to reduce severe traffic congestion while it undergoes massive renovations.

The good news for travelers departing from LAX: Rideshares and taxis will continue to drop off passengers as they always have.

The new system, supported by a shuttle bus, only applies to flights arriving in Los Angeles. Introduced at the end of October 2019, LAX-it, in use throughout this calendar year, will not be a permanent part of the airport’s infrastructure. Upon completion of the terminal overhauls and installation of the Automated People Mover train in 2023, the airport will look into restoring direct terminal access for rideshare and taxi pick-ups.

The intention behind removing the shuttle system once the

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overhaul wraps up is to provide a more connected LAX. With an operational Automated People Mover and increased accessibility and updated layouts in the terminals, traffic congestion will fall, the airport explains. During construction, about 30 percent of the curb previously used for pick-ups and drop-offs will be inaccessible, creating the need for a designated rideshare spot.

The bigger upgrades coming to LAX represent fundamental changes in the way the airport functions. The overhaul — a $14.3 billion improvement program with the overall goal of reducing traffic throughout LAX — will modernize all nine terminals, build a new satellite concourse and install the Automated People Mover train. The train will include six stops and connect to the regional rail system.

In mid-November, LAX-it was running smoothly, with eight consecutive days of single-digit wait times for taxis and rideshares from the pickup point.

In total, the new change also serves Los Angeles World Airports’ sustainability goals by reducing the amount of traffic and backups in the area for pick-ups. The association also constantly works toward sustainability goals in concert with the city mayor’s office. Some of these efforts include a central utility plant, frequent usage of green power, a clean construction program to reduce emissions and waste from construction projects and much more.

medical tourism

Traveling for Treatment Thailand’s skilled medical community draws health-seekers from around the world.

BY DEBRA BOKUR

UNFAILINGLY ENTICING for its exotic landscapes, ancient temples and exceptional resorts, Thailand has become equally attractive as a destination for travelers seeking world-class health care and affordable medical procedures.

Part of Thailand’s draw has to do with a high standard of care: In 2019 three private Thai hospitals were recognized for excellence by the Global Health and Travel Awards, part of the annual Asia-Pacific Medical Healthcare and Tourism Summit. Bangkok Hospital, Samitivej Hospital and the Bangkok Dusit Medical Services group of hospitals won seven awards in separate categories that recognized high standards, exceptional care and customer value.

According to the Canadian Medical Association Journal, medical tourism in Thailand has seen a 16 percent increase in recent years.

With more than 1,000 hospitals (including more than 470 private medical centers) offering procedures ranging from cosmetic surgery and dentistry to cardiac procedures, orthopedic and joint replacement surgeries, infertility treatments, bariatric procedures and eye surgeries, Thailand offers a comprehensive menu of medical choices, often delivered within the type of settings traditionally pursued by leisure travelers.

An added lure to travel to Thailand for treatment or surgery is that services combined with food and lodging often tally up to a fraction of the cost of what the same services would amount to in the United States. Using heart bypass surgery as an example, CMAJ reported the highly respected Bumrungrad International Hospital — a private facility in Bangkok staffed by an estimated 1,200 doctors, including more than 200 who also are U.S. board-certified — offers a package that includes a week-long stay for about $19,000. The same procedure for an uninsured patient in the United States carries an estimated cost of $80,000.

Navigating the details of arranging for an out-of-country procedure is often part of the service. The official medical coordination services at Bumrungrad include embassy contact assistance, language support and airport reception and transfers, among others.

Related developing industries within Thailand include international private medical insurance plans available to foreign visitors traveling for medical reasons, and a growing focus on the wellness travel industry that attracts visitors searching for preventative healthcare pursuits such as anti-aging treatments; Thai traditional medicine; and herbology, fitness and nutrition.

MODERN MEDICINE:

H.M. Queen Sirikit Building of Chulalongkorn Hospital and Lumpini Park in Bangkok PHOTO: © PANYA CHITMEDHA - DREAMSTIME.COM

itals hosp p o t e ave Som nd h a l i a ury in Th a lux f o ir ith te w the a e l p l, com spa-like hote s, suite n areas P I V atio ded bilit a h e bran r r a l popu and ps. e sho e f f co

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Although northern lights are visible in many places — Iceland, Greenland, Canada, Finland, Russia and, sometimes, even the northern United States — I decided on Norway’s dark and remote Lofoten Islands, partly because they are washed by the Gulf Stream, which makes for milder mid-winter weather.

Learn more about the northern lights next month as you read Bucket List: Northern Lights, Norway.

PHOTO: © STEPHEN MCSWEENY - DREAMSTIME.COM

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Tahiti

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