January 2019 Global Traveler by Global Traveler

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WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

Go for rugged adventure in Canada’s remote polar bear country. p. 74

BUENOS AIRES p.64 HONOLULU p. 62 HYDERABAD p. 56 JURASSIC COAST p. 70 LAGOS p. 67 MÁLAGA p.66 PHUKET p. 76

January 2019

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

NEW YEAR OF TRAVEL HAPPY NEW YEAR! It’s hard to believe it’s January and 2019 is already off to a busy start. I rang in the New Year in Vienna, Austria, on board U by Uniworld’s The A, “dashing down the Danube.” Read more about U’s parent company, Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection, on page 34, and check back throughout the year for more reports from my epic holiday trip. My travel companion on my cruise also appears with me in my picture this month. My boyTHUMBS-UP: Kimberly Krol and Scott learning to cook paella in friend, Scott, and I learned how Valencia, Spain to cook paella in Valencia, Spain, PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL in November 2018, and both our stomachs and the school’s chef gave our dish a thumbs-up. We experienced several other adventures together on our holiday cruise, which led us to agree traveling together more is a mutual resolution. Speaking of resolutions, this is the time of year when everyone is setting goals and working to break the habit of broken resolutions. What’s your aim for 2019? If it’s in any way travel-related, I hope the year we have planned for Global Traveler serves as an inspiration in some way. What can you look forward to this year? We’re once again jetting all around the globe, with articles on T’bilisi, Georgia; UNESCO World Heritage sites; Bhutan; the pyramids in Cairo; good sleep; Minsk, Belarus; culinary tours of Italy; gorilla trekking in Africa; Almaty, Kazakhstan; and so much more. This issue is chock-full. A great way to kick off the New Year is to get out the vote, as voting kicks off for our annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards. Learn more on page 36. Looking for a new credit card for 2019 spending? Our in-depth report on the best travel credit cards has the answer; turn to page 44. Join us as we visit Hyderabad, Honolulu, Buenos Aires, Málaga, Lagos, England’s Jurassic Coast, Manitoba and Phuket. We’ve even included the furry, four-footed companions; find out more on page 40. Join us next month when we examine cybersecurity while traveling. Bon voyage to 2019 travels!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com

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CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

ngton’s Washi ient en v con ail Metror 91 serves s and station 117 n o s run . f track miles o about e or m n Lear n, D.C. Washingto . 2 5 ge on pa

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN

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JANUARY 2019

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A LOOK AHEAD

EGYPT REVISITED: Francis X. Gallagher in Cairo PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

WE ALL LOOK FORWARD to a new, adventurous year as 2019 enters with a bang! As the magazine begins another year of publishing, I am reminded this is the 11th solo January issue. When Global Traveler kicked off this fun-filled adventure, we published a combined December and January issue. In some respects, that gave us time to relax and enjoy the holiday season, but on the other hand, our readers kept asking

for more and more information. Besides our wonderful subscribers, our distribution includes nearly every airline lounge across the country and some overseas. Therefore, those of you on January journeys or those who start the year running with business trips after New Year’s (like me) are rewarded with a copy of Global Traveler in the United, Delta and American lounges and many others. I know the folks at Lufthansa pride themselves on the lounge copies at U.S. gateways and in their strategic Frankfurt hub — after all, North American traffic is the most valuable for Lufthansa. I plan to visit Florida and Georgia right after the holidays, not for the warmer weather but for the key accounts residing in this region. I may figure out a way to take some R&R in the Sarasota area while I am there. The Florida Panhandle continues to struggle from the effects of Hurricane Michael, and I ask you to please remember this region, particularly Mexico Beach, which was devastated. Everyone is trying to put their lives back together; many do not have insurance, and many who do cannot find workers to repair or replace their structures. This “Sandy effect” happened in Long Island and New Jersey after Superstorm Sandy, and it delayed the ability of people to get back on their feet. The same can be said for the terrible fires in California. Many lost their homes, and no one knows when and whether they can rebuild. Some lucky residents are back but are surrounded by disaster and the lingering odor of the burn. Pray for them all, and please be generous to the charity of your choice. The American Red Cross is always ready to help when these events happen, but these areas will require long-term support. Finally, we are supporting the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society’s Red & White Ball on March 23 at the Philadelphia Marriott Downtown Hotel. Global Traveler’s editor in chief co-chairs the ball’s silent auction, and we will keep you informed of the great trips and items to bid on to benefit the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. We’ll be sure to share the link to bid when the auction goes live. Enjoy your travels, and I’ll see you in ATL, ORD or LAX!

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contents

January 2019

PHOTOS: © SNEHITDESIGN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © BOCA RATON RESORT, © KRIDSADA KAMSOMBAT - DREAMSTIME.COM

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

36 Get Out the Vote January marks a beginning and an end to voting at Global Traveler.

56 Destination One: Hyderabad Once famous for jewels, Hyderabad shines as a high-tech capital.

40 Pet Possibilities The travel industry makes it easier to take along four-legged friends.

62 Stateside: Honolulu Amid steady growth, Honolulu looks to maintain its original charm.

44 In the Cards Make your journeys more rewarding with a travel credit card to suit your needs.

64 9–5: Buenos Aires Tap into boundless sophisticated options for impressing clients in Buenos Aires.

48 Family-Friendly Global Traveler honors the winners of the first-ever Wherever Awards.

66 After 5: Málaga From food to flamenco, Málaga lights up the night.

52 Dynamic D.C. Meeting planners find Washington’s ever-changing nature irresistible.

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

January 2019

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

Go for rugged adventure in Canada’s remote polar bear country. p. 74

BUENOS AIRES p.64 HONOLULU p. 62 HYDERABAD p. 56 JURASSIC COAST p. 70 LAGOS p. 67 MÁLAGA p.66 PHUKET p. 76

COVER PHOTO: POLAR BEAR IN MANITOBA PHOTO: © LYNN BYSTROM - DREAMSTIME.COM

36 JANUARY 2019

globaltravelerusa.com

contents

January 2019 70

34 74

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

22 Technology 23 Wine & Spirits 24 Wealth 25 Tours 28 Spas 30 Golf 32 Chefs 34 Cruising 79 LGBTQ+ 81 Health

10 13 16 19

67 Neighborhoods: Lagos Discover the dynamic spirit of Nigeria’s largest city.

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Corinthia London 80 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

70 Friends & Family: Jurassic Coast Explore the spectacular landscape of England’s Jurassic Coast. 74 Bucket List: Polar Bear Exploration Go for rugged adventure in Canada’s remote polar bear country. 76 Kicking Back: Phuket For a true respite, step into the easy-going pace of Phuket.

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JANUARY 2019

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2019 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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usiness travel, meet perks. With Turkish Airlines Corporate Club membership, corporate travelers enrolled in the exclusive program receive special perks and benefits. And, there’s nothing to pay and no commitments, making this a value-added program you should join today.

FRONT END DISCOUNTS As a member of Turkish Airlines Corporate Club, you will receive exclusive front end discounts on fares for to/beyond Turkey travel. There’s also the option to earn free tickets if you meet an annual flight quota and the opportunity to earn upgrades. BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Ease worries about fitting all the necessities for your business trip as a Turkish Airlines Corporate Club member. Enjoy an enhanced baggage allowance on international flights.

FLEXIBILITY As all corporate travelers know, changes happen. As a member, you will have the flexibility to change flight routes and dates for all flights to/beyond Turkey. There is also no penalty for cancellation or no-show for most booking classes. TURKISH AIRLINES CORPORATE CLUB CARD With your membership card, you can checkin through business-class counters and gain access to lounges even when flying in economy. Additionally, you still earn miles in your Miles & Smiles frequent flyer account. Don’t hesitate. Find out more on how business meets benefits with the Turkish Airlines Corporate Club. Benefits vary by country. Apply today at https://corporateclub. turkishairlines.com/en-gb.

Santorini, Greece by Steve McCurry

“Best Luxury Cruise Line” WINNER – 2016, 2017, 2018 NOMINATED – 2019

“Best Cruise Line Suites” WINNER – 2018 NOMINATED – 2019

LET US TAKE YOU CLOSER TO THE AUTHENTIC BEAUTY OF THE WORLD SAIL TO OVER 900 DESTINATIONS

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mail call Q&A WITH KATIE SKRZEK, VICE PRESIDENT / DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Q&A WITH JANICE HECHT, SENIOR EDITOR

In our November 2018 issue and first-ever cruise-themed edition, Katie Skrzek, vice president and digital director, discussed her cruise with friends in college. After traveling to Key West and the Bahamas, she was intrigued by the variety of options currently available and asked: Do you have a favorite type of cruise? A few readers wrote in: My husband and I go on about four cruises a year. We love the all-inclusive amenities and services, but we do like to mix it up. We tend to try different cruise lines and destinations but haven’t actually tried a river cruise yet. I’m thinking that’s next! BARB ANDREWS, via email I went on a cruise recently with friends on a Royal Caribbean ship. We had a great time — we always do — but the weather was not ideal. We couldn’t explore as much as we would have liked, but typically I would say my style is to enjoy the ship as a luxury stay and hop off and enjoy the destination as much as possible. REBECCA COLLINS, via email

LETTER TO THE PUBLISHER Globility Board members Steve and Angela White share their experi-

Taking care of our eyes is critical when traveling. Exposure to wind and UV rays, especially on the water or in snowy landscapes; low-humidity environments like airplanes and hotel rooms; and lack of sleep can all contribute to inflammation or irritation, causing discomfort and even damage. After experiencing ocular inflammation that required medical attention on a trip years ago, I now pack two pairs of sunglasses, a broad-brimmed hat and lubricating eye drops, and drink plenty of water and get adequate shut-eye during the trip. The American Academy of Ophthalmology makes additional recommendations on its website. Do you take special precautions to protect your eyes when traveling? Do you know how to choose appropriate UVA and UVB sunglasses? Have you experienced eye problems while traveling? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

ences from a recent golf trip to Turkey. St. Andrews, Pebble Beach, Hawai’i, Pinehurst — these are the great golf destinations you think about when planning a golf trip. I just returned from the Turkish Airlines World Golf Cup Amateur Competition in Antalya, Turkey, and I have to say you need to add Antalya to the list of the finest golf destinations in the world. Turkish Airlines holds the largest worldwide amateur golf tournament in 100 locations around the world, highlighting that Turkish Airlines flies to more destinations from around the world to İstanbul. The winners of

these 100 tournaments received an all-expenses paid trip to play in the finals in Antalya. The trip included a business-class ticket on Turkish Airlines as well as an eight-night stay in the allinclusive Titanic Hotel in Antalya. The Turkish Airlines flight was on a newly configured Boeing 777 with lie-flat seats and a chef on board to prepare the meals in business class. I have had the privilege of flying internationally on at least eight other major carriers, and the Turkish Airlines experience was at the top of the list. The comfort, amenities, aircraft, food and the crew’s desire to make the experience the best possible were impressive. We arrived in Antalya af-

ter our connection through İstanbul and whisked off to our hotel, where our beautiful room offered a great view of the tournament golf course. The next day (Sunday) we had a practice round and a welcome party with fabulous food from around the world. Monday the grand final tournament began, and I was grouped with golfers from Moscow, Cape Town and Frankfurt. It was quite an experience to play golf with an international group and to see the differences in golf in various countries. In many places they play a Stableford game of scoring, rare in the United States. The course was great, in excellent condition and a good test of golf.

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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JANUARY 2019

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The second day of the finals, I played with the gentleman from Frankfurt and a Vietnamese golfer who lived in Prague. That evening we enjoyed a gala dinner party at another hotel and had a question-and-answer session with some of the European PGA players preparing to play in the Turkish Airlines European PGA tournament, also part of the activities Turkish Airlines planned for us to attend. The winner of the finals had the opportunity to play in the Turkish Airlines Open Pro-Am with partners Lee Westwood and Trevor Immelmann. These players won the Pro-Am and received two business-class tickets anywhere Turkish Airlines flies. The evening after our two-day tournament, we attended a Halloweenthemed Turkish Airlines European Tour pre-party at the Regnum Hotel, just down the street from our hotel. The food, drinks and entertainment were all top-shelf. I had a chance to talk to several of the professional players competing and had a drink and quick conversation with Justin Rose, who defended his title with a victory at the Turkish Airlines Tournament and became ranked the No. 1 golfer in the world. This whole event was an eyeopening experience. We had dinner, drinks and conversation with golfers and couples from Ghana, the United Kingdom, Germany, Russia, Spain, Egypt, India, the United States and many other countries. We compared golf stories and country issues and realized we all had the same love of golf. During this once-in-a-lifetime experience, I learned a lot about Turkey (we also visited İstanbul for several days) and realized the best way to learn about a different part of the world and a different culture is to see it for yourself. My wife and I want to thank Turkish Airlines for this great experience, made extra special by Simon Wakefield, who ensured everyone had the best

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JANUARY 2019

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

time possible. I look forward to visiting Turkey again via Turkish Airlines!

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

STEVE AND ANGELA WHITE, via email

LETTER TO THE EDITOR Another Globility Board member, Mike Russo, recently wrote to our editor to express an opinion on a recent stay with St. Regis and a flight in China Eastern business class. Just finishing off a great holiday of firsts! First stay in a St. Regis (Chengdu, highly recommend); and a first China Eastern Airlines business-class flight (SFO–PVG–CTU and return). China Eastern operates a great Boeing 777300 product on the trans-Pacific flight, and does really well with the short, three-hour Shanghai–Chengdu flights, including hot towels and hot meals and suddenly empty domestic first-class cabins. The China Eastern lounges, though, are not among the best in Shanghai or Chengdu. Almost time for wheels up from Shanghai Pudong, heading back home. MIKE RUSSO, via email

KEEPING UP WITH THE WORLD TRAVELERS … A reader wrote in with thoughts regarding previous publisher’s letters, including business and leisure travel and whether or not they mix. For my part, I always try to combine the pleasure of leisure with business to include my life partner, when appropriate — more so internationally — but never to the actual stage of a business meeting. After all, we should all work to live and travel, as opposed to living to work. JAMES FERGUSON, via email

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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Availa at the

news Mexico Residents Vote Against Airport Construction

After a four-day consultation between the Mexican government and its citizens in late October 2018 and a nationwide vote that took place in more than 500 cities and towns, 70 percent of the participants voted against finishing the construction of a brandnew airport in Mexico City, a structure with projected costs of nearly $13 billion, making it one of the country’s largest and most expensive infrastructure projects. Those against this project, which already began construction, noted it would be wiser to invest in updates to the existing Benito Juárez International Airport. Canceling the current project could cost the Mexican government up to $10.5 billion. The vote came shortly after Mexico elected a new president, Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador, July 1. As part of his campaign, Lopez Obrador opined the project was a waste of taxpayer money and promised to cancel it.

DELTA INTRODUCES NEW AIRBUS THIS MONTH

As the 2019 travel year kicks off, Delta reveals a new line of aircraft: The Airbus A220-100 planes are equipped with updated features and upgrades for passengers. One such feature is the addition of a small window inside one of the bathrooms, providing an illusion of slightly more breathing room in a considerably cramped space. Each passenger seat will be outfitted with high-resolution entertainment screens, and all passengers will have access to 2Ku WiFi, powered by Gogo, the latter for an additional fee. Along with free in-flight entertainment, there will be charging ports at each seat and soothing LED lighting throughout the plane. The cherry on top of the sundae is the width of the seats, the widest among all existing aircraft. Seats will measure 18.6 inches in width for economy passengers and 20.1 inches wide for first-class passengers. The new fleet of A220s represents an eco-friendly line of planes designed with fuel efficiency in mind. The first plane takes flight Jan. 31. delta.com

Virgin Voyages Travels to Cuba in 2020

PHOTOS: © DELTA, © VIRGIN VOYAGES

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Beginning in 2020, Virgin Voyages’ The Scarlet Lady will be the first cruise ship from Virgin to travel to the Caribbean island of Cuba. The Scarlet Lady’s first stop will be the port in Havana, where passengers have the chance to disembark and visit local clubs for a night of salsa dancing or stroll the streets lined with brightly colored buildings. On board the inaugural adults-only, wellness-focused cruise, guests will have access to a full spa, juice bar, sunrise and sunset yoga classes, a boxing gym and even a tattoo parlor called Squid Ink. The eco-friendly ship will also be plastic-free, meaning no plastic straws, drink stirrers or shopping bags on board. With the first stop solidified, Virgin Voyages plans to release the remaining stops along this itinerary in the coming months. virginvoyages.com

JANUARY 2019

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news

Singapore–Seattle Non-Stop Service

singaporeair.com

Icelandair and Norwegian Join TSA PreCheck

Southwest Reinstates Free Entertainment

Based on feedback from customers, Southwest Airlines will once again offer free in-flight entertainment. To take advantage of the free movies, TV shows and games, passengers must download Southwest’s mobile app on their own phone or tablet to access the selection. Guests will still be able to play music, podcasts and send text messages in flight, free of charge, a perk that debuted in May 2018. Southwest will continue to charge $8 for in-flight WiFi. southwest.com

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Icelandair and Norwegian Air are the latest international airlines to join the TSA PreCheck program. Travelers flying with either of these airlines to destinations outside the United States can apply for TSA PreCheck membership and enjoy the benefits of a quick security line. Although these security benefits do not apply to flights returning to the United States from abroad, membership in TSA PreCheck also comes with Global Entry perks, which accelerate the re-entry process when passengers return to the States. icelandair.com norwegian.com

Lie Detection in European Airports

It seems each new day brings a new airport security measure, adding time and complications to the already stressful process of modernday travel. Europe plans to beef up security in some of its airports within the European Union through a program called iBorderCtrl. As part of this program, lie detectors will be installed at certain border checkpoints in Hungary, Latvia and Greece, to start. During this beta-testing phase, the machines will ask questions via a webcam to travelers entering from outside the European Union. Officials explain the video’s technology will be able to detect small changes in facial expressions, thus determining the truthfulness of given statements. In addition to using this artificial intelligence, human agents will be on site in case any security risks are detected. Passengers must provide written consent to be filmed as part of this security screening.

PHOTOS: © SINGAPORE AIRLINES, © ERIK LATTWEIN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © IVAN CHOLAKOV - DREAMSTIME.COM

With the launch of the world’s longest flight and the re-launch of its non-stop route between Los Angeles (LAX) and Singapore Changi Airport, it’s safe to say Singapore Airlines had a successful 2018. The airline plans to build on this momentum in 2019 by introducing a non-stop flight between Singapore and Seattle (SEA) on board its Airbus A350-900 aircraft. Beginning Sept. 3, Singapore Airlines will fly 42 business-class passengers, 24 premium-economy passengers and 187 economy passengers from Seattle to Singapore, an 8,070-mile journey that will take approximately 16 hours and 30 minutes. Flights will depart Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays to start, with an additional Sunday flight added in October. With this new route, Seattle will be the airline’s sixth U.S. destination.

deals & rewards

Hyatt’s New Reward Rules

As of early November 2018, World of Hyatt rewards program altered its method for accepting points to redeem rewards. Previously, World of Hyatt accepted points and cash as methods of payment when booking rooms by billing members for the approximated number of points required; if the points didn’t cover the total balance, guests were charged a tiered fee for the remaining balance. Hyatt noticed this resulted in much lower rates for their rewards members, especially during their higher income periods such as conferences or major holidays. Therefore, as of Nov. 1, World of Hyatt members who want to use cash and points to book rooms will be charged 50 percent of the standard amount of points per room and 50 percent of the room’s daily rate. Although this makes it more difficult for rewards members to score deals compared with the previous payment scheme, it allows Hyatt to retain its loyal guests while increasing profitability. worldofhyatt.com

PHOTOS: © HYATT, © BRETT CRITCHLEY - DREAMSTIME.COM

Qatar Airways Considers Leaving Oneworld

In light of recent comments from American Airlines and Qantas, Qatar Airways may consider rescinding its membership from the oneworld airline alliance. American and Qantas openly voiced their concerns over terminating their open skies agreement with Qatar Airways, and if Qatar decides to leave the alliance — one that also includes British Airways — travelers will be left with fewer options to redeem and earn points when traveling to and through the Middle East. The popular stopover hub in Doha (DOH) and the airline’s stellar business-class offerings will be replaced by the only remaining oneworld operator in the Middle East: Royal Jordanian Airlines.

Earning Airline Elite Status More Difficult

qatarairways.com

Two major airlines are changing the way loyalty members can achieve elite status via their co-branded credit cards. As of last fall, AAdvantage members can no longer earn Elite Qualifying Dollars when using American’s co-branded Aviator Red World Elite MasterCard. Previously, card members were able to receive up to $3,000 in EQDs when they spent $25,000 per year with the card. Elsewhere, United Airlines increased its threshold for earning top-tier 1K elite status as part of its MileagePlus program. Members used to have to spend $12,000 per year to reach this status, but as of 2019 they will need to spend $15,000 per year. These changes will make it more difficult for loyal passengers to achieve elite status, but airlines see it as a way of ensuring only their highest-paying rewards members receive the top treatment from booking to boarding.

oneworld.com

aa.com united.com

JANUARY 2019

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GT tested

AT SIX Reviewed by Tom Goldman

Guest Quarters: For a standard room, the space exceeded my expectations. In addition to the king-sized bed, it contained a comfortable chair and ottoman with reading light, coffeemaker, separate tea pot, iron and room safe. The bathroom with stall shower was well-equipped with razor and shaving cream; toothbrush, toothpaste and dental picks; and comb. A large desk space provided multiple USB charging ports and electric outlets, requiring adapters for U.S. charging device plugs. Part of Nordic Choice Hotels, the 5-star hotel sits on top of a new shopping center. Taking advantage of the elevation contours of the site, the street entrance for the hotel is on the fourth floor, with the main entrance of the shopping center the actual ground floor. Services/Amenities: The hotel offers a wonderfully extensive breakfast buffet for an additional fee. It is served in a fifth-floor restaurant with a large, sculpture-lined, two-story entrance from the lobby to open, window-lined seating. Considering the relatively high cost of dining in Stockholm, the buffet offers a reasonable value. For those with time, Old Town is a five-minute walk away, and a 20-minute walk takes you along the waterfront to the bridge connecting the island with Skansen. Here are the historical Swedish living museum; the Vasa Museum, a 300-year-old ship recovered intact from the Stockholm harbor where it sank on its maiden voyage; ABBA: The Museum; Grunland Tivoli amusement park; and other museums. Stockholm, a lively city in the summer, boasts plenty of restaurants and rooftop bars, many offering music. The only drawback is that some rooms at hotels, including those in the rear of the At Six, are subjected to the loud music well past midnight.

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The At Six is well-situated for both business and casual travelers. The staff were universally helpful, friendly and welcoming. Centrally located off the Cultural Center, the hotel sits just a few minutes’ walk from the main train station and a few blocks from the Royal Palace and Opera. ◆ If you need an early, quiet night, ask for a room facing the street and away from the adjoining nightclub at the rear. ◆ The hotel offers access via a separate fourth-floor elevator to the shopping center, where you’ll find anything you may have forgotten. ◆ The international airport lies 30–40 minutes from the hotel by cab or Uber and 20 minutes by express train from the central station. AT SIX Brunkebergstorg 6 111 51 Stockholm Sweden tel 46 8 578 828 00 hotelatsix.com

PHOTOS: © AT SIX

Arrival/Check-In: After an overnight cruise from Helsinki, I arrived at 9:30 a.m. before the customary check-in. With a welcoming smile and quick check of ID and credit card, the desk attendant provided me with an electronic key, and I was in front of my room within minutes. Unfortunately, the e-key had not expected me until after 10 a.m. and would not work. A quick trip to the front desk, and with profound apologies, the bellman escorted me to the room to be sure I got in.

GT tested

ALOFT DENVER DOWNTOWN Reviewed by Angelique Platas

Arrival/Check-In: Enjoying my ride from Denver International Airport to my hotel downtown, I was so focused on the snow-capped mountains in the distance, I nearly missed the city buildings fast approaching. After a 30- to 40-minute ride into the city, I arrived at the Aloft Denver Downtown. Pulling off the main street into the Aloft Denver Downtown entrance, I immediately felt tucked away from the city. I would never have noticed it on my own, as it has an unassuming entrance, resembling a parking garage. I hopped out and was escorted from the car to the concierge desk. I checked in with the concierge as we chatted about nearby restaurants and the great location. My room wasn’t ready — and wouldn’t be for at least another 45 minutes — so I dropped off my bag and moved to the lounge area to plug in and get some work done while waiting. I noticed some hotel guests congregating in the lounge, playing pool and grabbing coffee at the W XYZ Bar when I got the text that my room was ready.

PHOTOS: © ALOFT DENVER DOWNTOWN

Guest Quarters: I grabbed my bag and headed up to my room on the third floor. The dimly lit hallways featured dark-painted walls, neon accents and pops of colorful text. Matching the various furnishings in the lounge downstairs, the path to my room boasted the same fun, young and playful theme of color popping against a dark palette. My small but efficient guestroom felt infinitely bigger with the floor-to-ceiling curtains open, allowing me to look out over the pavement and directly at my neighbors. The room was simple, no-fuss and perfect for a quick stay — which I could have inferred from the guests in the lounge who looked like business travelers. I set my luggage on the bench in front of the kingsized bed, my computer and bag on the large desk, and hung a few things up in the closet near the coffee machine. The industrial-chic interior design was playful and casual — as I began to suspect was the general vibe of Denver. Services/Amenities: Both the hotel’s pantry (located behind the concierge desk) and fitness center operate 24 hours for guests, allowing visitors freedom to come and go as they please. There is even a breakfast nook, re:fuel by Aloft, complete with a menu of fresh options inspired by local cuisine and flavors. While the amenities may be limited, the location couldn’t be more ideal. I took advantage of the hotel’s close proximity to local attractions and museums as well as the concierge’s helpful suggestions for vegetarian options around the city. Just a block from the Colorado Convention Center, a short walk from the 16th Street Mall and surrounded by fun breweries and restaurants, the locale is essentially a one-stop shop for business travelers and first-time visitors getting their bearings on the area’s surrounding neighborhoods. Aptly named, as it sits in the heart of the hustle and bustle of Denver’s downtown, the Aloft hotel offers an ideal home base for business.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The king-sized bed was so comfortable, I fell into a deep sleep almost immediately. ◆ The bathroom soap, shampoo and body wash are a natural brand for sensitive skin. ◆ Remember to close your floorto-ceiling curtains! ALOFT DENVER DOWNTOWN 800 15th St. Denver, Colorado 80202 tel 303 623 3063 marriott.com

JANUARY 2019

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GT tested

THE RITZ-CARLTON KEY BISCAYNE, MIAMI Reviewed by Marie Edwards

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Featuring a Ritz Kids activity program and excellent business amenities, the resort is equally enjoyable for family get-aways or practical business needs. ◆ The Key Pantry is perfect if you’d like to grab a picnic basket, a baguette, a bottle of wine and head to the beach.

Guest Quarters: My room was bright, spacious and elegantly appointed. A full balcony offered panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean. The room also featured a fully stocked refreshment cabinet, a purposeful business center with a large desk and internet service. I enjoyed the attention to detail, including the marble bath, luxurious linens and 24-hour dining. Services/Amenities: Sitting on the only South Florida location named one of America’s best beaches by Dr. Stephen Leatherman’s “America’s Best Beaches” list, The Ritz-Carlton at Key Biscayne features a zero-entry family pool, a tranquil adult pool, an oceanfront Grand Lawn, and the Cantina Beach and Dune Burgers on the Beach casual eateries. Restaurants offer a range of dining venues from the cosmopolitan to the casual snack. RUMBAR/Lobby Lounge, an Old Havana-inspired bar lounge, presents a traditional warm

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JANUARY 2019

and welcoming feel. Scoop serves ice cream. Several waterfront dining options include Lightkeepers, Cantina Beach and Dune Burgers on the Beach. The Lobby Lounge’s à la carte dining meant I could enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner and drinks at my leisure. It serves four meals per day, each of which I found to be superb. I also enjoyed the casual snacks from time to time in this more private environment. We dined alfresco at Lightkeepers with lovely views of the ocean. Two knowledgeable and seasoned executives greeted us: Jorge Mendoz, sommelier, and Executive Chef Raul A. del Pozo. The evening began with a delightfully light and flavorful sparkling wine which we enjoyed along with the views of the setting sun. Then we had a superb pairing of Sauvignon Blanc with grilled octopus and lamb and chorizo empanadas. Our main course of blue cobia and grilled branzini were served with crispy Brussels sprouts and a traditional lobster mac and cheese dish. We wrapped it all up with two incredible desserts of key lime cheesecake and chocolate plantain cake served with a Port digestif. The resort features a 20,000-square-foot spa with 21 treatment rooms and more than 60 treatments, a full-service salon, a Wellness Center and state-of-the-art fitness center. For the tennis fan, 10 clay courts, daily tennis clinics and lessons with a tennis pro are available.

◆ More than 30,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor meeting and banquet facilities include a 10,000-squarefoot ocean-view ballroom. THE RITZ-CARLTON KEY BISCAYNE, MIAMI 455 Grand Bay Drive Miami, Florida 33149 tel 305 365 4500 ritzcarlton.com

PHOTOS: © THE RITZ CARLTON KEY BISCAYNE

Arrival/Check-In: Situated on a pristine barrier island with superb beaches and panoramic ocean views, The Ritz-Carlton at Key Biscayne epitomizes tranquility, serenity and luxury. This 5-star resort features the unparalleled amenities and services that have made the Ritz name synonymous with quality. From the moment you arrive, you will appreciate the warm and welcoming atmosphere, the incredible views and the uniquely Floridian décor of the newly renovated lounge.

◆ If you plan to visit the area for business or pleasure, this serene beach escape just moments from the hustle and bustle of Miami is customizable for your family or for yourself.

one on one

THOMAS KOCHS Managing Director, Corinthia Hotel, London Best career advice you’ve received: Do not try to fast-track your career; the more experience you develop will shape and advance your career. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Find out what you want to do, learn all you can and be the best in the field you have chosen. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Traveling in South America, I truly enjoyed the landscapes and cultures. One travel tip you cannot live without: Make sure you have all the appropriate chargers for your devices and always have an extra change of clothing in case of travel disruptions. Best advice for business travelers: Try your best to experience the cultural side of any destination to which you travel. Take some time to immerse yourself beyond your business travel agenda. ABOUT YOUR BRAND The hotel recently unveiled 11 new suites; tell us about them and what other amenities attract premium travelers to Corinthia Hotel London. Even though the property is quite new, we opened 11 new suites, a split between Garden and London categories. Our new suites offer an intelligent use of space whereby travelers can relax and, at the same time, conduct business in a comfortable, sophisticated style. These new suites add to our existing River and Penthouse suites and are a symbol of our continual improvement of the property. The London suites are modern, light and fresh with a contemporary feel. The space has been designed with privacy in mind and with functional areas and adjoining bathrooms. The Garden suites overlook the hotel courtyard and pay homage to English gardens in a tranquil setting. These suites encourage guests to relax while offering inviting living areas with fireplaces. Our butler program is a complement to our suites and offers unparalleled service.

PHOTO: © CHARLIE SAWYER

Name: Thomas Kochs Title: Managing director Company, city: Corinthia Hotel London Number of employees: 500 Recent project: Working with Tom Kerridge to open Kerridge’s Bar & Grill and the new London and Garden suites First job: I worked in a restaurant in my hometown. Little-known fact about you: I enjoy cooking and frequently have dinner parties. I do not enjoy baking, but cooking for friends is enjoyable. YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Technology is the biggest game-changer in our industry, and every day we add and upgrade the offerings at the Corinthia London. At the same time, we do not want to lose the personal touch travelers expect from our property.

Tell us more about the food and beverage offerings available. When I started at Corinthia, I was asked to reinvent the main restaurant, formerly Massimo. From my first meeting with Tom Kerridge, I could tell we would get on famously and have a successful collaboration. Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge created a relaxed brasserie dining experience specializing in rotisserie-cooked meats and vegetables with a uniquely British and modern flair. The bar in Tom Kerridge’s is a lively destination in itself before dinner or for post-work cocktails. The Bassoon bar at the Corinthia is a unique, New Orleans-type venue with a 1920s feel. Award-winning head bartender Marcis Dzelzainis and his team craft uniquely made specialty drinks with the traditions of New Orleans with a modern touch. I cannot say enough about our afternoon tea service in the Crystal Moon Lounge with an extensive range of fine teas; a selection of traditional scones, pastries and cakes; and seasonal sandwiches. What can travelers expect from the hotel in 2019? Travelers can expect the continual superb service and attention we have always had since the opening of the Corinthia London but with our continual improvement in food and beverage (there will be more) and service and accommodations.

JANUARY 2019

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Discover REAL Island Life in the South Pacific

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

The Cook Islands: Come See Us Before the Rest of the World Does international dateline

NEARLY A CENTURY AFTER CHARLES LINDBERGH made travelers feel confident flying in airplanes, much of the world is well trod. The places that remain unique and different and unspoiled are few. The Cook Islands is one such place! A paradise of 15 iconic Pacific Islands, it’s off the beaten track in the heart of the South Pacific. Here, you can still go to a beach without putting your towel a few feet from someone else’s. In fact, here there are many beaches where you can choose to be alone! The Cook Islands have long been the quiet achievers of South Pacific travel. While Tahiti continues to be the by-word for “tropical paradise,” and Fiji extends its warm “bula” welcome to countless tourists each year, the Cooks offer all the beauty, hospitality and relaxation of the South Pacific in one beautiful, laid-back package. The Cook Islands has all of the natural beauty and none of the excess — no brand-name hotels, no fast-food chains, no stop lights, no buildings

San Francisco

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Hawaii

equator

Tahiti

Rarotonga

Australia

New Zealand

Manihiki

Suwarrow

Nassau

Auckland

Penrhyn

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Sydney Melbourne

South America

Northern Group

COOK ISLANDS Brisbane

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to or hard to stay in. The Cook Islands is neither. Every Saturday evening, Air New Zealand operates a non-stop flight from Los Angeles to Rarotonga, the country’s main island. Just one flight per week? Yes, in a world of “over-tourism,” the Cook Islands is one of few remaining “under-tourism” destinations within easy reach from the United States. Best of all, if you are planning to visit New Zealand and/or Australia, the Cook Islands is so easy to add into an itinerary as part of Air New Zealand’s network. Here’s how: taller than a coconut tree. Yet accommodation is available for every kind of traveler, from beachside bungalows to luxurious resorts with private bars and beaches and everything in between. There are spas and fine restaurants and fancy drinks you only consider indulging in when you’re on a tropical holiday. You can spend your days in your resort, cooling off with cocktails from a swim-up bar, or you can feel comfortable exploring because the islands are small and the people so easy to meet and become friends with. Most paradises like this are either hard to get

Canada

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• Depart Los Angeles on Saturday evening and fly non-stop on Air New Zealand’s overnight flight to Rarotonga, on the same time zone as Hawai’i. Ensure you spend time on iconic Aitutaki, now widely regarded as the world’s most beautiful island by journalists, the travel trade and discerning travelers like yourself. • Decide how long you wish to stay, rejuvenate in the Cook Islands, then choose from daily flights to cross the international dateline to Auckland, New Zealand. Or you may wish to take a non-stop flight

from Rarotonga to Sydney in Australia. • When you are ready to come home, Air New Zealand offers a wide range of direct flights from Auckland into the United States — Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago and Houston. Here, it’s impossible not to be at peace, grateful for the breathtaking beauty that exists in the world. We love watching your faces when you tell us our place has captured your heart. This kind of feedback makes us proud. That’s why we’re letting you in on a little secret: Come see us before the rest of the world does.

technology

A NEW YOU Enhance your health, fitness, comfort and convenience in the New Year. BY JACK GUY

EMBR WAVE BRACELET Whether you’re struggling to beat the heat during the summer or shivering due to aggressive air-conditioning, this high-tech bracelet will help you regulate your body temperature. The Wave Bracelet makes you feel five degrees cooler or warmer in just three minutes, keeping you comfortable whatever you do. With a metallic gray finish and an adjustable fit, the makers developed a useful product that looks great, too. $299. embrlabs.com

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JANUARY 2019

OPTOMA NUFORCE BE SPORT4 After the indulgence of the holiday period, many people look to get fit in the New Year. These in-ear headphones offer noise isolation and great audio quality as well as ear hooks to keep them in place while you exercise. Top sweat- and water-resistance means they can handle even the hardest workouts, plus the battery will last for up to 10 hours. There’s even a fast-charging feature that gives two hours of playback on just 15 minutes’ charging. $79. optoma.com

MUHDO FITNESS PLAN KIT If you’re on a New Year’s health drive, you’ll make faster progress with a personalized program. Instead of hiring a trainer, try out the Muhdo genetic profiling kit. Simply send a saliva sample to the epigenetics firm, and you’ll receive a fitness and nutrition plan based on your unique genetic markers. Find out what kind of exercise suits your body best as well as the nutrients you need most, and you’ll make quick progress toward your fitness goals. $260. muhdo.com

PHOTOS: © JBL, © EMBR, © OPTOMA, © MUHDO

JBL LINK VIEW SMART SPEAKER Combining JBL’s stellar reputation for audio equipment with an 8-inch HD touchscreen makes this smart screen a hugely useful addition to any home. Apps run on the Android Things platform, and the speaker includes a built-in camera for Google Duo video calls as well as great connectivity with Google Assistant. There are similar products on the market, but the Link View stands out for its amazing audio performance and market-leading functionality. $250. jbl.com

wine & spirits

THE X FACTOR Xavier Flouret curates a collection of the world’s finest boutique vintages. BY EUNICE FRIED g to rdin Acco nited the U 72 ons, Nati in tries coun orld the w ine. ce w u d o pr SELECTIVE TASTE:

Domaine de Chatenoy Rouge Noir Menetou-Salon (left), and Xavier Flouret (below) PHOTOS: © COGNAC ONE LLC

X MARKS THE SPOT — often the spot where a treasure can be found. And one such treasure is X wines, chosen by Xavier Flouret of the wine importing company Cognac-One. Its wines, with a large “X” on their labels, are boutique wines Flouret selects from his travels around the world, wines made by small producers he feels provide excellent representations of their region, their grapes, their type. I recently tasted several white X wines, among them the flavorful, refreshing Domaine Hamelin Marly Chablis 2015 ($24) from Burgundy; and from the Loire Valley, Domaine La Gemière French Blonde 2017 ($25), a lively, assertive, fruity Sancerre. Rosés include Château des Demoiselles Nationale 7, 2017 ($22) from Provence, a bright, fresh, floral wine that combines seven grape varieties and displays aromas of strawberries and citrus fruits. The X red, Domaine de Catenoy 2014 ($24), a Pinot Noir from the Loire Valley, presents a deep, subtle aroma, silky body and clean taste. From Bordeaux, the spicy Château Haut Meneau Quai Lumière 2015 ($21) comprises equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Bodegas Santa Eulalia Poinciana 2014 ($24) — a 100 percent Tempranillo from Spain’s Ribera del Duero — displays excellent balance and a long aftertaste. From Spain’s Rioja, Bodegas Loli

Casado Fé 2011 ($24) proves a delicious, welltempered 90 percent Tempranillo. South African X wines include Joubert-Tradauw uQamata 2013 ($22.50), a smooth blend of Bordeaux grapes with hints of blackberries. Finca La Celia La Pilar 2016 ($17) from Argentina, a pleasant, 100 percent Malbec wine, offers easy drinking with a taste that lingers. An X wine from the Maipo Valley of Chile, Viña Echeverria Oscar 2014 ($15) blends 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Cabernet Franc and features a deep red color; an aroma reminiscent of cherries; a smooth, round body; and beautifully integrated fruit flavors. And there are still many more X wines. The phrase “X factor” usually refers to a quality sometimes difficult to describe but one we sense to be special, noteworthy, intriguing — like Xavier Flouret’s X wines.

JANUARY 2019

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wealth

FRESH START

AS WE TURN THE CALENDAR TO 2019, it is a good time of year to prioritize tax planning. Individuals are cash-basis filers, which means the taxable activities that occur during the calendar year are the items considered taxable income and tax deductions. Many closely held small businesses also file their tax returns on the cash basis. Cash-basis filers have some ability to determine their taxable income and, with proper planning, may be able to defer some income taxes from one year to the next. One way to reduce your taxable income is to contribute to or increase your 401(k) withholding. If you find you have some extra money, increase your withholding election at work so you can get a few more dollars put into your plan. Each dollar you put in will be one less dollar on which you have to pay federal tax. As a bonus, your company may even match some portion of your dollar, giving you free money. If you do not have a retirement plan at work, begin to plan so you can make an IRA contribution and start putting that money to the side or into your account. The new tax law made some big changes in the individual tax area. Standard deductions for individuals who are married and filing

jointly increased to $24,000 — up from the 2017 amount of $13,000. Because of this increase, you’ll want to review your situation and may want to bunch your taxable deductions in one year so you get the most bang for your buck. Businesses looking to trim their tax bills can continue to turn to the trusty standby strategy of deferring income into the next calendar year and accelerating deductions into this year. For example, toward the close of 2019, a business that uses cash-basis accounting might “slow roll” its invoices to push the receivables into the new year, or choose to prepay expenses. Notably, the new law greatly expanded eligibility for cash-basis accounting, making it generally available to businesses with three-year average annual gross receipts of $25 million or less. Another interesting and good planning tool is gifting of assets to move them and future growth out of your estate. The estate and gift tax exemption doubled to $22.36 million for a married couple; this increase gives lots of planning opportunities to those who could use it. For those of you who are business owners, make sure you maximize your Section 199A deductions (too involved to cover in this article). If your business has a year that shows a loss, keep in mind those losses are limited but can be carried over. They can no longer be carried back. Remember, your final tax bill is not yet written, so take the time to do what you can to minimize your tax liability. Always speak with your tax professionals and allow them to guide you through the nuances of these monumental tax changes.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice. Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

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PHOTO: © MUSTSANSAR SYED - DREAMSTIME.COM

Begin your 2019 tax planning on the right foot.

tours

THE WINNING TICKET Sporting event tours score on and off the field in 2019. BY KRISTY ALPERT

THERE’S SOMETHING ALMOST POETIC about the lengths to which professional sports fans will go to support their favorite team; fierce devotion and unwavering allegiance forever win out over obstacles that could keep them from being present with their team. Through rain or shine, in victory or defeat and even away or home, loyal sports fans go to great lengths for the teams and sports they support, if only to be able to say, “I was there when …” The Travel Industry Association of America recently reported nearly 40 percent of American adults each year go 50 miles or more to a sporting event, whether that be a baseball game, NASCAR race, horse race or even a major sporting event like the Super Bowl or the Olympic Games. Traveling for a sporting event often proves more challenging than traditional vacationing, where scoring tickets for the big game is often just as difficult as scoring a room anywhere near the stadium or sporting arena. Sporting event travel companies like Roadtrips, Sports Traveler and Golden Sports Tours specialize in creating sport experiences for their guests. Beyond granting exclusive access to soldout sporting events, these travel specialists offer packages that cater to individuals or groups looking to win big with their travel plans. Racing fans booking an extravagant trip to the 2019 Monaco Grand Prix through Roadtrips will have the chance to stay at the prestigious Metropole Monte-Carlo hotel (a Leading Hotels of the World member) and can enjoy premier viewing options that include either premium terraces or circuit-berthed yachts. The package also comes with private tours, access to the best parties and a personal concierge on hand to handle any lastminute requests. Sports Traveler boasts an uncanny ability to score VIP access to sold-out events — like the Kentucky Derby, Super Bowl and more — but the 19-year-old company is best known for its bespoke experiences and behind-the-scenes tours, like a wedding proposal on the field at a Cowboys vs. Redskins game or the chance to peek into the float decorating barns before the Rose Parade in Pasadena, California. Sports travel packages can include everything from meetthe-players parties to behind-the-scenes stadium tours and even

WHERE THE ACTION IS:

The 2018 Winter Olympics in PyeongChang, South Korea (above), and Monaco Grand Prix (left) PHOTOS: © ZHUKOVSKY - DREAMSTIME.COM, © YANN SASPORTAS DREAMSTIME.COM

VIP tickets and luxury hotel accommodations. Most trips can be customized and can encompass sports from football, basketball and tennis to sumo wrestling, ping pong and kung fu.

JANUARY 2019

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J O U R N E Y

T O

THE NEW HOME OF TURKISH AIRLINES THE AIRLINE THAT FLIES TO MORE COUNTRIES THAN ANY OTHER AWAITS YOU IN THE WORLDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW AVIATION CENTER

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spas

EMBRACE THE ELEMENTS On the magnificent Viking Star, you can soak yourself in luxury. BY DEBRA BOKUR

SOOTHING: Thermal pool

PHOTO: © VIKING OCEAN CRUISES

A FINE LAYER OF SALT GLAZES MY LIPS and I close my eyes, listening to a rush of hot mineral-rich water as it streams into the space beside me. I’m mostly submerged in a large thermal pool, positioned to take advantage of the underwater jets doing an exceptional job melting the knotted muscles behind my shoulders. Spanning the entire length of the wide stone wall at the far end of the pool facing me, a beautiful inset gas fireplace feeds warmth into the space, while firelight flickers against the glass and across the water’s surface. Aligned at the room’s end across from one another, tall, leafless birch trees reach toward the ceiling, adding to the illusion of taking a dip in a deep alpine forest lake. Elements of Nordic nature and culture all come into play in the LivNordic Spa & Wellness space on board the elegant Viking Star, one of Viking’s extraordinary oceangoing vessels. The fabulous spa space makes up the entire forward area of Deck One and proves one of the most wonderful at-sea experiences I’ve ever enjoyed. Along with the hot and cold areas, the spa’s multihead showers can target everywhere all at once, or just that one muscle crying out for attention. Separate men’s and women’s dressing areas

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each provide showers, lockers, large sauna cabins and cold plunge pools. While each also offers its own relaxation area, it’s the tranquil, firelit space near the pools that beckons. From the corner of my eye, I have a partial view of a grotto filled with snow and ice, emanating a soft blue glow through the glass on one side. It’s across from the large steam chamber and separated by a wide area where heated stone beds, curved for optimal comfort, offer an inviting space to relax. Thanks to plenty of time exploring Iceland and Scandinavia, I’m familiar with the Nordic bathing ritual of alternating hot and cold experiences to stimulate the immune system and relax the body. A host of medical studies support this practice, detailing how the use of water in its various forms — ice, steam and liquid — can offer relief from a host of conditions that include arthritis and joint and muscle pain, while enhancing cardiovascular health and an improved sense of overall well-being. It’s that well-being sensation I’m seeking. In the midst of processing all of that hot vs. cold information intellectually, I’m still mentally cringing at leaving the comfort of the hot mineral pool, carefully

observing as others move in and out of the snow-filled grotto. But since nothing ventured equals nothing gained in the world of travel, I reluctantly pull myself from the hot water and enter the icy cave. Immediately I’m surrounded by the cave’s ethereal blue light. My toes dig in to the soft snow, and after an initial gasp, I clear a spot on one of the stone benches positioned within, noticing how snowflakes fill the crevices and tiny shelves within the lava rock walls. Four minutes, counted out on the spa’s wall clock, pass swiftly, and I leave feeling a rush of peacefulness wash over me. The cold session only makes the next destination on my thermal route — the scented steam chamber — all the more delicious. I choose a seat against the wall and press my shoulders into the stone, physically absorbing the warmth. The result is heavenly. For the next hour, I make a path through the suite, choosing the hot pool, whirlpool or steam bath alternating with the cold option of the snow cave or a session beneath a bucket filled with icy water. A firm pull on the bucket’s chain releases a frigid cascade over my head and body and acts as permission to immediately head someplace warmer. Between hot and cold sessions, there’s time to relax on one of the poolside loungers beneath a thick towel or to stretch out on one of the heated stone beds with a pillow beneath my head.

The next day, I arrive at the spa in time for a sauna session before my Swedish massage. I’d hesitated over my treatment choice, finally deciding I should play out the Nordic theme as fully as possible. My therapist questions me about any especially tight areas and proceeds to deliver a deep-tissue version of the traditional Swedish therapy, using her hands and lower arms to roll and knead my muscles in a rhythmic motion that mimics the movement of the ship. When her fingertips find the muscles beneath my shoulder blades, she adds a swift, tapping vibration that enhances my relaxation. At the end of my session, she gives me instructions to make use of the thermal suite as much as possible during the cruise, suggesting that moving between the steam bath and snow cave would be particularly helpful. Post-massage, it’s time for afternoon tea service in the Wintergarden. By the time I arrive, a string quartet is already playing. Music floats toward the glass ceiling, supported by a lacy network of golden Scandinavian wood, creating a tranquil space and reminding me of a vast nest suspended between the sea and sky. A smiling waiter notes my tea selection and returns soon with a teapot and a tiered stand of savory sandwiches, lovely cakes and an array of still-warm scones — for me, the ideal way to wrap up a relaxing day at sea.

JANUARY 2019

STIMULATING: Snow grotto

PHOTO: © VIKING OCEAN CRUISES

LivNordic Spa & Wellness Viking Ocean Cruises vikingcruises.com

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golf

HIGH GROUND Play Nova Scotia’s spellbinding Cabot Cliffs. BY DALE LEATHERMAN

SEA BREEZE:

Cabot Cliffs Hole 15 PHOTO: © DONNELLE OXLEY

I’VE NEVER BEFORE SAID a North American course rivals the great coastal tracks of Scotland, but I’m saying it now about Cabot Cliffs, universally ranked in the world’s top 10 since it opened in 2015. Prior to 2011, only golf purists traveled to Cape Breton Island, off the northern tip of Nova Scotia, to play Highlands Links. Opened in 1941, it’s a Stanley Thompson classic and a joy to play, but back then it was a long trip for one course. That changed in 2011 when the site of an old coal mine on the island’s west coast was reborn as Cabot Links. The Rod Whitman layout is so Scottish you can almost hear echoes of bagpipes as you walk it. Four years later, the Coore- and Crenshaw-designed Cabot Cliffs one-upped its sister course and caused golfers everywhere to pull out maps of Atlantic Canada. The little fishing town of Inverness rose from the ashes (or coal dust) and flourishes as a golf destination, thanks to the Cabot Links Resort, which encompasses both courses. The road leading to it, the 185-mile Cabot Trail, loops around the island. Though the route has always been one of the world’s most

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scenic drives, it has been newly discovered. Golfers are learning it’s not so hard to get there — and it’s closer than Scotland. Halifax offers lots of direct flights and lies a three-hour drive from Inverness. Connecting flights to Sydney knock an hour off the drive. Private aircraft can land at Port Hawkesbury Airport, 50 miles from Inverness. No matter how you get there, it’s worth the trip to play three world-class layouts and enjoy the fishing, hiking, seafood and friendly folk of Nova Scotia — which, by the way, means New Scotland. Spend a week or two and you can play a dozen good seaside and parkland courses. The highlight of the pilgrimage is playing Cabot Cliffs. Every hole features an ocean view, with several overlooking Margaree Island, an eerie double for Scotland’s Ailsa Craig. Twisting their way over rolling terrain, dodging tall grasses and deep bunkers, the first nine holes are beautiful, and each poses a memorable challenge. The 10th hole offers your first chance to lose a ball in the ocean. From there the risks increase, along with the drama of the setting. If the walking-only

Cabot courses don’t leave you breathless, the scenery will.

HOLE 2 | 401 yards, par 4

While the first hole is invitingly open, the second hints at the complexity ahead. No simple stroll in the park, the wide fairway is a trap if you just ogle the ocean view and swing away without thinking about your approach shot. Landing in the middle of the fairway will leave you facing an intimidating dune blocking the green. Hitting your drive left or right, depending on the pin placement, is the best strategy.

HOLE 10 | 557 yards, par 5

Paralleling sea cliffs all along the left side — with a ravine in front of the green — this hole offers two choices: Flirt with the drop-off to the ocean or play it safe along the right side. If you stay left and manage not to lose your ball in the sea, you can either go for the green in two or lay up before the gorge with a good approach angle. Playing safe along the right side leaves you with a more difficult shot to the sculpted putting surface.

HOLE 15 | 562 yards, par 5

Here’s another hole with a wide fairway and a tee shot that determines your fate. There’s high ground on the left from which you can see the bunker in the fairway ahead, but that

side is studded with hazards. A drive to the right leaves you with a blind second shot toward the central bunker. The cliffside green, flanked by four pot bunkers, has an undulation in the front.

HOLE 16 | 176 yards, par 3

If there’s no group crowding you, you’ll want to hit more than one ball here. Again, the green is perched above a dizzying drop to the water. The putting surface slopes left to right. If the pin sits on the lower side, you can land high and hope it trickles down … that is, if you miss the pot bunkers and the wind doesn’t play havoc.

HOLE 17 | 331 yards, par 4

It’s a scary sight across the pounding surf below to a landing area on the bluff above. However, with a generous landing area, big hitters can drive the green. Two bunkers guard the front of the green and come into play from the left side.

HOLE 18 | 528 yards, par 5

A great finishing hole, this par 5 crowds the sea cliff, and a gorge cuts into the fairway. If you shy to the left, away from the ravine, it’s a devilish chip toward a narrow green dropping off behind.

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Cabot Links Resort 18 Cabot Lane Inverness Nova Scotia Canada B0E 1N0 tel 902 258 4653, 855 728 6886 cabotlinks.com PERILOUS PLAY: Cabot Cliffs Hole 16 PHOTO: © DONNELLE OXLEY

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chefs

LURE OF LONDON Executive Chef Romain Devic brings a world of experience to the Nobu Hotel Shoreditch. BY KIMBERLY KROL

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? There is not one singular destination that inspires me in particular. Everywhere can be and is an inspiration — from the culture to the way of life, like the simplicity and genuine kindness of Cuban people and South American influences in Miami to the food culture from France. WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? I personally liked how Anthony Bourdain brought world cuisine and product to people through his TV shows. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? My brother; he is also a professional chef and passed on to me the cooking “virus” in my teenage years. We share thoughts, recipes and techniques. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? I am quite im-

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pressed by London. As one of the busiest capitals in the world, I expected it to have a wide range of restaurant styles, but you can find all you want within a close radius wherever you are. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? I think it will be more healthy and eco-friendly food. More and more people look for quality over quantity and fetch products from local markets or farmers. It is not always easy to find a balance between both, but I feel the new generation is more involved in it — it’s not just to follow a trend; they really mean it. NOBU SHOREDITCH 10-50 Willow St. London EC2A 4BH United Kingdom tel 44 20 7683 1200 nobuhotelshoreditch.com

PHOTO: © NOBU SHOREDITCH

AS THE THIRD NOBU location in London, the Nobu restaurant inside the Nobu Hotel Shoreditch opened with a long-time fan base in the city. And with the influence of Executive Chef Romain Devic, the traditional favorite saw additional changes, including the launch of Nobu Café. The café serves an eclectic menu with a matcha bar, London’s only Kinto hand-brewed Japanese filter coffee and an afternoon tea, alongside the striking décor of the hotel and the exquisite Japanese cuisine of the restaurant. Devic’s career began as commis pastry chef at Hotel Les Airelles in Courchevel. However, according to Devic, his brother’s love of cooking first touched him as a teenager, so his journey to London started long before Courchevel. He then moved on to several Michelin-starred restaurants including Bar & Boeuf in Monte Carlo, Le Jules Verne on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower and Auberge du Vieux Puits. He joined the Nobu brand in 2012 as pastry sous-chef at Nobu Miami Beach and soon moved to Nobu Atlantis Paradise Island in The Bahamas. He also assisted in the launch of Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay before joining Nobu Hotel Shoreditch. The first Nobu Hotel opened in 2013, and today more are open or in development around the world, including Marbella, Chicago, Barcelona and Bahrain. Today more than 30 Nobu restaurants can be found worldwide.

2019 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot

Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World_____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance________________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website _______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Trans-Pacific______________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers__________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class___________________________________________________________________ International First Class_________________________________________________________ Domestic First Class_____________________________________________________________ Onboard Service ________________________________________________________________ Lounges _________________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendants________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms ______________________________________________________ Airline Cuisine___________________________________________________________________ Security__________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design_______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch_____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program___________________________________________ Elite-Level Program______________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_______________________________________________________________ Award Redemption______________________________________________________________ Customer Service _______________________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand______________________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________________ China____________________________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe__________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ Mexico___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East _________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China)____________________________________________________ The South Pacific________________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America_____________________________________________ To Japan______________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline__________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World___________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents____________________________________________________________ Airport Dining________________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ____________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport_________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia______________________________________________________________________________ Africa_____________________________________________________________________________ Europe___________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_________________________________________________________________ North America___________________________________________________________________ South America___________________________________________________________________

International Hotel Chain__________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain______________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel______________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel _________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website______________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World___________________________________ Elite-Level Program____________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________________ Award Redemption____________________________________________________________ Customer Service_____________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ South Korea___________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________ The United States _____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia____________________________________________________________________________ Europe_________________________________________________________________________ Latin America__________________________________________________________________ Mexico_________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East_______________________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program _______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company_______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_______________________________________________________________ MICE City ___________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service_________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand_____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App___________________________________________________________________________ Airline App__________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program ______________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card___________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card __________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events ___________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program_____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card_________________________________________________ Promotions____________________________________________________________________ Benefits________________________________________________________________________ Redemptions__________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card_______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

State

ZIP Code Email

cruising

IMPECCABLE INDULGENCE Uniworld designs elegant cruises befitting the world’s great riverways. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

UNIWORLD IS THE BYWORD for all-inclusive luxury river cruising, especially on the magnificent rivers of Europe. That’s where the Uniworld Boutique River Collection of more than a dozen small vessels really shines. The fares are high, but the inclusions are striking: all gratuities, ship-wide WiFi connections, a free excursion at each port, most beverages and farm-to-table gourmet cuisine, not to mention complimentary fitness classes, fleets of Uniworld bicycles and an ample assortment of Nordic walking sticks. Uniworld’s boutique river vessels are equally striking. Each shines as an elegant “museum on water” with handcrafted furniture and walls of original artwork by worldrenowned artists, but no two ships are styled alike. The décor of the 164-passenger S.S. Antoinette, for example, reflects Marie Antoinette’s 18th-century Château de Versailles, while the 150-passenger S.S. Marie Theresa is decked out liked a Baroque Viennese palace, and the 128-passenger S.S. Joie de Vivre boasts interiors inspired by 20th-century Paris. Uniworld is the river line to book for those seeking a cruise to match the sublime castles, museums and ports lining the Danube, Rhine and Moselle. Little wonder Uniworld is frequently cited as the world’s best river cruise line, as it was most recently with a Global Traveler Leisure Lifestyle Award. Six of the newest Uniworld vessels plying the riverways of Europe are Super Ships (designated by the “S.S.” in their names). These enhanced versions of the original swank fleet make top choices for many passengers. The newest of the new Super Ships, the 124-passenger S.S. Bon Voyage, sets sail April 14 on the Dordogne, Gironde and Seine rivers of France. In fact, Uniworld offers numerous sailings in France, stretching from Paris to Normandy to the Bordeaux region; in Portugal on the Douro River; and in Italy on the Po River, where the 134-passenger River Countess remains the most luxurious river ship of any line based in Venice. Uniworld’s presence extends well beyond Europe as well, where it charters lavish vessels with highly attentive service and fine, locally inspired dining. Uniworld travelers can book cruises on the Mekong in Vietnam and Cambodia, the Ganges in India, the Volga in Russia, the Nile in Egypt and the Yangtze in China, where the 136-passenger Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer sports an astonishing one-to-one staff-to-passenger ratio. Uniworld caters largely to North American and other English-speaking passengers. A cruise line for adults, it does offer special family cruises. Last year Uniworld even dared to trim its plush sails slightly by debuting the first-ever river cruise brand designed exclusively for travelers aged 21–45. Known as U by Uniworld, these cruises cater to a more youthful crowd, offering craft mixology classes and onboard DJs.

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s, décor e t n e decad perks, th r its o f other d uise Fame ining and er Cr cs, v i R d e h basi s. utiqu lavis s the cilitie d Bo r a l e f r v o y o r w c Uni laund also enger ction s e l s l a o p C ee ing fr includ

VINTAGE PARIS:

S.S. Joie de Vivre stateroom (above) and bathroom (left) PHOTOS: © UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE RIVER COLLECTION

WE TOOK THE WORLD’S BEST BOUTIQUE HOTELS and made them float.

Outstanding service | One-of-a-kind, award-winning ships | Choice of carefully curated experiences Delicious farm-to-table cuisine | Experience luxury with the world’s best.

TO BOOK A CRUISE ON THE “#1 RIVER CRUISE LINE,” CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR, VISIT UNIWORLD.COM OR CALL 1-800-298-0417.

feature

Get Out the Vote January marks a beginning and an end to voting at Global Traveler. BY KIMBERLY KROL AS JANUARY SIGNIFIES THE START of a new year, it’s only fitting the month kicks off voting for the GT Tested Reader Survey awards; 2019 marks the 16th year of our annual reader survey. But this month also marks the end of voting for our Leisure Lifestyle Awards, another reader-voted survey, but focused on leisure travel providers like resorts, cruises and islands. As such, it’s never been more important to get out the vote! We asked our trusted Globility Board members to share their thoughts on voting with us to encourage others to vote, either online or via the ballots printed on the following pages. The Globility Board consists of a vetted group of well-traveled subscribers who serve as a sounding board for the magazine, offering insights into their travel habits and much more. Read on as members share their thoughts on hotels, resorts and cruise lines; why they vote; and what the surveys mean to them.

SWEEPING VIEWS:

Marriott Biscayne Bay (left), and a Viking Longship in Koblenz (right) PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL, © VIKING RIVER CRUISES

I love voting in these surveys since I’m a firm believer in voting in general — whether it’s for governor or my favorite hotel. It gives me a little thrill when the final tabulation shows my vote did count and the hotel I love is on the list. And I love how the list changes from year to year, so it’s always a fresh, real representation of how we feel. No property should rest on its laurels or reputation — this is the democratic way to really earn it. It also, of course, gives cachet to the hotel itself for getting the GT seal of approval. I don’t always go with the flow of the usual suspects; sometimes it’s a quirky place or one I just personally adore because of the terrific rooms, outstanding services and great location, like the Marriott Biscayne Bay, where corner rooms have sweeping views of the entire planet, or the InterContinental Amsterdam, which is just so special. — SUE CASTORINO I vote because GT offers another opportunity for like-minded travelers to give a rating or comment on a travel company or

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property. I look at GT winners, TripAdvisor and several other sites that offer reviews on upcoming destinations. These awards and reviews help me make my ultimate choice on a destination, a property and even something as small as a restaurant or car service. Everyone likes to be treated special, and being loyal to a brand or hotel gives the best opportunity to receive the best treatment … as well as an upgrade and special amenities. I recently stayed at The Ritz-Carlton Istanbul, Turkey. I was impressed with the location, quality of the room and amenities. As a long-time Starwood Preferred Guest traveler, it is nice to have The Ritz-Carlton become part of the program. When we travel to areas that do not offer large hotel chain properties, we tend to stay at the same property so we are treated as well as possible. At the Grand in Cannes, France, we were upgraded to a penthouse suite with a spa on the patio overlooking the sea. There are other similar properties around the world we love in that same way. The last cruise we took was with Viking River Cruises from Budapest to Germany. It was educational, and we thought Viking did a great job. The food was good, the ports and excursions were great.

Not sure if this is something to review, but for the first time we rented a house via HomeAway in the south of France and had a great experience. I also wanted to comment that in Europe we rent cars from Sixt and have had a good experience, as it tends to rent higher-end cars. I see it is starting to have a larger presence in the United States. — STEVEN WHITE Over time, most of us stayed in many different hotels and in many different locations/countries. Hence, we experienced a variety of hotel chains and family-run hotels. Experience has shown me that after I find a hotel chain that offers the amenities I want (e.g., free WiFi everywhere and a restaurant on [the] premises), I tend to stay loyal to that hotel chain. With so many cruise lines and ships, we start with the location we want to visit, pick an itinerary and then look at the price of the cabin and book it as far in advance as possible. Most of the time we book our air travel separately to allow for greater flexibility and more days before and/or after a cruise. — JIM ELLIOTT Global Traveler’s GT Tested Reader Survey is always interesting to read. I look for my favorites to see how they rate and also who rates tops. Favorite brands are those with good loyalty programs, quality service and global access. These include Marriott/Starwood and Oceania. — PAULA VOGEL Because travel is such a big and important part of our lives, we love to give feedback and cast our votes for the travel vendors we use so as to let others know which vendors we favor, to let the vendors know they are doing a good job and are on the right track, and hopefully inspire the non-winners to do better! We are Lifetime Platinum/Gold Marriott members and have usually found the level of service a small cut above the other chains ... . It’s a little disappointing the Marriott/Starwood merger took place, as I believe it lessens competition in the marketplace; never a good thing. But I do like Marriott’s dedication to doing its best to offer a good or better level of service. We always and only go to full-service hotels, which offer more amenities — in particular restaurants and lounges — and whenever possible take advantage of the M Clubs (executive lounge). We also like affiliates The Ritz-Carlton and those now included under The Luxury Collection. Our two favorite cruise lines are Princess and Norwegian. Princess is a cut above the others for us, as not only is the entire experience almost always uniformly very good, but it offers

TAKE THE PLUNGE:

more of the activities we enjoy on board, with more variety and frequency than some of the other cruise lines. Norwegian offers exceptional value and quality, and the food is actually, I believe, a cut above some of the others. — JOE CESTARO

Princess Cruises pool PHOTO: © PRINCESS CRUISES

Each year I look forward to voting for the most deserving hotels and resorts because it’s important to recognize exceptional service when it is given. Excellent service includes recognizing and acknowledging guests by name, anticipating guests’ needs (such as a late check-out or assistance with reservations to a popular restaurant) before they ask, and an enthusiastic, can-do attitude that really makes one feel special while at the hotel. On the other hand, some hotels are truly one-of-a-kind (for example, in August I stayed in a hotel room that was underwater in a marine habitat) but fall short in terms of service, causing disappointment. — ERIC CHIANG I like to vote for my favorite hotel because it’s a way to recognize and reward it for an overall great travel experience. I consistently have been an IHG fan, enjoying InterContinental, with my favorite being Hong Kong (soon to be rebranded again back to a Regent now that it is part of IHG). My typical destinations include less traveled areas, and I’ve found IHG has a better global footprint than any other hotel family, at least until the Marriott takeover of Starwood. — MIKE RUSSO

JANUARY 2019

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Several resorts in the Mid-Atlantic region certainly deserve mention. The first is a wonderful place our family has enjoyed for many years: The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia. Another resort in Virginia for viewing wonderful fall colors is Primland in Meadows of Dan, Virginia, close to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Again, this is a resort on thousands of beautiful acres for great golf courses and hiking. Another much smaller inn we have visited with friends is Fort Lewis in Millboro, Virginia, deep in the mountains. The innkeepers are wonderful, and the family-style meals are fun. The Inn at Little Washington is one of the best inns in the country. Patrick O’Connell’s famous inn is a 5-star property in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains with marvelous rooms and the best dining. — DOROTHY WOOD We just returned from a four-night cruise from Miami to Key West and Havana. We sailed on the Azamara Journey, one of three ships in the Azamara fleet. We have previously cruised multiple times on Celebrity, Norwegian and Royal Caribbean. The Azamara ships are much smaller, and the nicest thing about a smaller ship is the absence of crowds. — MARVIN SINGER I vote, as I believe it is important to have our voices heard by the brands we love. My favorite hotels are customerobsessed, and it is reflected not only by how they treat us but [also by] how the employees are empowered and recognized by these brands.

WARM WELCOME:

— IRIS CHILDRESS

The Inn at Little Washington (above), The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs (middle), and Azamara Journey pool deck (right)

I vote in order to support the magazine. And I want to offer encouragement to brands that deliver consistently great service and experiences. But sometimes our experiences aren’t varied because of the loyalty programs offered by hotels and airlines. For example, I always try to stay at Hyatt- or Hiltonbrand hotels. — TOM LINHARD

PHOTOS: © THE INN AT LITTLE WASHINGTON, © THE GREENBRIER, © AZAMARA CRUISES

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2019 Leisure Lifestyle Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

Best Beaches ___________________________________________________________________________

Best River Cruise Line __________________________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, Domestic __________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Entertainment _______________________________________________________

Best Historical Attractions, International _______________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Dining ________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, Domestic_________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Spa ____________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Destination, International _____________________________________________

Best Cruise Ship Excursions ___________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in the United States _________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Rewards Program ___________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Europe_____________________________________________________

Best Cruise Port ________________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Africa ______________________________________________________

Best Luxury Leisure Hotel Group in the World _______________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Asia________________________________________________________

Best Hotel Chain Resorts ______________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Latin/South America______________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Hotel ________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination in Mexico_____________________________________________________

Best Family Resort Chain in the World ________________________________________________

Best Leisure Destination for Groups (Four or More)___________________________________

Best All-Inclusive Resort_________________________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in North America__________________________________________

Best Tour Operator_____________________________________________________________________

Best Weekend Destination in the World_______________________________________________

Best Airport for Layovers_______________________________________________________________

Best North American Ski Destination___________________________________________________

Best Airport Recreation_________________________________________________________________

Best International Ski Destination______________________________________________________

Best Stopover Program_________________________________________________________________

Best Caribbean Island _________________________________________________________________

Best Leisure Airline ____________________________________________________________________

Best Island in Europe __________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Entertainment___________________________________________________

Best Island Pacific Rim _________________________________________________________________

Best Airline Onboard Menu_____________________________________________________________

Best Family Cruise Line ________________________________________________________________

Best Premium-Economy Class ________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Cruise Line ________________________________________________________________

Best Pet-Friendly Airline ________________________________________________________________

Best Cruise Line Suites _________________________________________________________________

Best Luxury Vehicle ____________________________________________________________________

Best Adventure Cruise Line ____________________________________________________________

Best Car Rental _________________________________________________________________________

Best Small-Ship Cruise Line ____________________________________________________________

Favorite Luxury Watch Brand __________________________________________________________

Best Large-Ship Cruise Line ___________________________________________________________

Favorite Liquor Brand___________________________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or fax to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/leisureballot Name Street Address City

State

ZIP Code

Home Phone

feature

Pet Possibilities The travel industry makes it easier to take along four-legged friends. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

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WHEN WE FILLED OUT OUR application to adopt our dog from a miniature schnauzer rescue organization nearly three years ago, one of the desired traits we included was a dog who would travel well — not a surprise when one of the two of us is a travel journalist. A week after we adopted Scout (just shy of her eighth birthday), we packed up the car and took off on our first road trip. A few months later, she earned her wings on her first flight when we traveled to Maine for a stay at the dog-friendly Inn by the Sea. Since those first trips, Scout travels with us whenever possible. We are not alone in adding a furry member to our family. According to the 2017–2018 American Pet

POOCH PERCH:

Inn by the Sea, located on a mile of sand beach, offers overthe-top pampering to pets and their owners, as well as to foster dogs; guests have adopted 131 dogs to date through the inn’s collaboration with the Animal Refuge League of Greater Portland. PHOTOS: © INN BY THE SEA

MEET AND GREET:

Boca Raton Resort’s canine ambassadors Waddie (left) and Hays (right) PHOTO: © BOCA RATON RESORT

Products Association, Inc. National Pet Survey, 68 percent of all U.S. households have pets living in them, or 84.6 million homes. Within those homes live nearly 90 million dogs and 94 million cats. With so many pets in our homes, it comes as little surprise we want our four-legged family members to join us when we travel, and the travel industry is listening by offering more ways for our pets to accompany us. Flying with your pet can make traveling to your destination quick and easy, but there are some things to keep in mind. If your pet is small enough to fit under the seat in front of you, she can join you comfortably in the cabin. However, if he’s a bit bigger, he will likely need to be checked as cargo. While that can be a bit worrisome for us pet parents, Delta Cargo put our minds at ease when it recently announced an exclusive partnership with CarePod, a pet technology startup that developed a new standard of first-class safety and care for pet air travel. One of the ways CarePod provides safety and care for pets — as well as peace of mind for their families — is with real-time GPS tracking service for pet shipments. If you plan to fly with your pet, check with your airline ahead of time, as each has its own set of guidelines to which you will need to adhere, including health requirements and documentation. There is likely also a fee for bringing your pet along, so ask about that as well. Through our research we found one-way domestic carry-on fares range from $9.98 (on Silver Airways, which donates a portion to local animal shelters) to $125; checked and cargo fares may be higher. Nearly two years ago, Amtrak made its pet travel program permanent on most of its routes, inviting dogs and cats of up to 20 pounds to travel with their people on trips of up to seven hours; the fee is $26. Just as with airlines, Amtrak has its own set of guidelines and health requirements for pet travel. When the permanence of the program was announced, Joe Boardman, president and CEO, Amtrak, said, “We are excited

JANUARY 2019

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to bring this service to more of our passengers throughout the country who want to travel with these cherished family members.” In South Florida, Brightline provides rail service between Miami, Fort Lauderdale and West Palm Beach, with expected expansion to Orlando in the coming years. It offers a terrific option for pet families since Brightline welcomes pets on board. While the company is working on an option so you can reserve a seat next to you for your four-legged friend, in the meantime you may bring one cat or dog on your train trip for free, as long as she stays leashed and in her carrier. Oftentimes, travel involves renting a car, but what to do if you are traveling with your pet? Simply check with your preferred car rental agency ahead of time about its policy. Many agencies allow pets to ride in cars without additional fees, as long as he doesn’t make a mess or tear anything up. If that does happen, you will be responsible for charges associated with cleaning and repair. Hotel brands such as La Quinta Inns & Suites long welcomed furry guests (of canine and feline descent) of any size to its hotels, free of charge. There are some restrictions, so call ahead to be sure you are squared away for your stay before you arrive. Another choice, Kimpton Hotels, welcomes all pet guests, whether furry, feathery or scaly, no matter their size, weight or breed, all at no extra charge. As its website says, “If your pet fits through the door, we’ll welcome them in.” More and more hotels open their doors to pets, but inquire about associated fees, which can vary greatly depending upon the hotel you choose. In Florida, Boca Raton Resort and Club introduced its Paws in Paradise program for its four-legged guests last year, and they’re lapping it up. In addition to meeting Hays, the resort’s Canine Director, dogs will relax in a luxury dog bed and have bowls to use so they don’t need to bring their own. Paw parents can even rent a nanny cam to keep an eye on their pup while they’re out of the room. When the St. Gregory Hotel in Washington, D.C.’s DuPont Circle recently finished CAPITAL OF COMFORT:

Pampered pooch at St. Gregory Hotel in Washington, D.C. PHOTO: © ST. GREGORY HOTEL

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JANUARY 2019

remodeling, the hotel added a pet program to welcome fourlegged guests. Upon check-in, your dog will receive a comfy pillow bed; food and water bowls; and locally made, organic, all-natural treats. A list of nearby dog parks and pet-friendly restaurants and stores will help you plan your time together. The recently opened Angad Arts Hotel in St. Louis invites dogs to stay with their people. When making reservations, you and your pet can choose your room by emotion: green for rejuvenation, yellow for happiness, blue for tranquility or red for passion. When you arrive, you will be greeted with your dog’s amenities (dog bed and bowl) to match your room’s color scheme, and she’ll enjoy a special David Burke treat just for her. When it is time for a walk, the Ellen Clarke Sculpture Park a block away offers a fun space to explore. You and your pet can live the West Coast life at Hotel Palomar Los Angeles – Beverly Hills. When you check into the design-driven hotel, start planning your L.A. getaway with the concierge list of nearby pet-friendly restaurants, parks and pet boutiques. Your pup can choose from seared tuna and bloomed quinoa, Schmitz Ranch beef and barley, and Mary’s chicken and rice from the Canine Delectables menu when she joins you for lunch or dinner at Bardessono’s Lucy or Lucy Bar in Yountville, Napa Valley. In your room, she’ll have her own bed to curl up in. Back in Maine at the Inn by the Sea, Scout enjoyed her own specially prepared meal with us on the deck of the Sea Glass restaurant. The next time we visit, we may have to make time for a pet massage. Aside from hotels, HomeAway offers more than 300,000 pet-friendly vacation rentals around the world, according to Melanie Fish, HomeAway travel expert. “With amenities like fenced-in backyards and extra space, vacation rentals are comfortable for the whole family, even the furry members.” For more ideas on traveling with your four-legged family member, visit BringFido.com, a terrific resource for traveling with pets, to find not only pet-friendly destinations but also attractions, restaurants, hotels and even events, all around the world.

CALIFORNIA VIBE: Four-legged guests enjoying their stay at Bardessono (above) and Hotel Palomar Los Angeles – Beverly Hills (left)

PHOTOS: © BARDESSONO, © HOTEL PALOMAR LOS ANGELES – BEVERLY HILLS

JANUARY 2019

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In the Cards Make your journeys more rewarding with a travel credit card to suit your needs. BY SUSAN FINCH

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JANUARY 2019

WHETHER YOU ASPIRE to amass millions of frequent-flyer mile points or just want a rock-solid credit card that offers plenty of travel perks and flexibility, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a card that suits your needs and ambitions. But frequent-flyer miles just scratch the surface of what business travel cards really offer. Airport lounge access, free companion tickets, free upgrades, free bag checks, no foreign transaction fees and priority boarding are just a few ways to win with travel credit cards. Too many choices are usually more of an issue than not enough. Narrowing down the right card to fit both your business and personal needs can present a challenge for even seasoned travelers. With reward points and travel perks in mind, here are some of the best credit cards for travelers for 2019.

PHOTO: ÂŠ STRYJEK - DREAMSTIME.COM

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Although Business Gold has an annual fee of $295, it provides access to a suite of solutions and a built-in Pay Over Time with interest feature, providing business owners tools for managing cash flow and taking advantage of unique, limited-time offers from G Suite by Google Cloud and ZipRecruiter. Businesses can also maximize rewards with employee cards, earning the same four times points on employee cards as they do on their own card, with the security of employee controls to help manage spending and account activity in real time.

PHOTOS: © AMERICAN EXPRESS, © CHASE, © AMERICAN EXPRESS, © AMERICAN EXPRESS

PERFECT FOR BIG SPENDERS who want to quickly rack up reward points, the Business Platinum Card from American Express OPEN offers 50 percent points on purchases of $5,000 or more. But it also offers 35 percent of your points back when used on qualified flights. There’s also a $200 airline fee credit and an annual $200 baggage fee credit good on the use of a single airline. That kind of perk works well for travelers accustomed to flying the same airline for business and pleasure. Although Amex currently offers a signup bonus of up to 75,000 rewards points after qualifying purchases, travelers love the card’s free access to the Centurion Lounge and The International American Express Lounge. And to sweeten the deal when traveling, this card also offers five times the rewards points on flights and prepaid hotels on amextravel.com.

THERE’S A GOOD REASON American Express makes it onto so many lists of coveted travel credit cards. With the recently launched Business Gold Card from American Express, travelers automatically earn four times rewards points on the top two of six named categories where their business spends the most each billing cycle, on the first $150,000 each calendar year. Other purchases not on the category list earn one times the point. In addition, card members get a 25 percent airline bonus on qualifying airline purchases booked using Membership Rewards Pay with Points through American Express Travel, getting up to 250,000 points back per calendar year with this benefit.

IT’S HARD TO BEAT THE 80,000 bonus points after spending $5,000 on purchases in the first three months of opening a Chase Ink Business Preferred Credit Card. But travelers can also earn three times per dollar on the first $150,000 spent on combined purchases that can range from travel, shipping, internet, cable and phone to costs associated with running a business, like advertising on social media. Although you can redeem points for things like cash or gift cards, travelers would be wise to save them for travel bucket-list adventures. Ink Business Preferred offers 25 percent more in travel redemption when redeeming through Chase Ultimate Rewards. Ultimately, that makes those 80,000 points worth $1,000 toward travel. Beyond all the points, Ink also extends no foreign transaction fees on purchases made overseas.

n Whe an ic Amer ’ nes Airli e ntag a v d AA ram prog d in he launc he world ,t e of 1981 e ris r h t saw lye nt-f e u h q fre , wit s b u l c mile nded a r co-b cards it cred ng suit. wi follo ental in Cont erican Am n and s soo e e n i l th Air uced d o r ing int earn f o idea points el trav r fo just ding spen on y mone rds. ca their

STARWOOD MAKES THE LIST for both best personal travel credit card and business, but the latter earns a bigger signup bonus and points for each dollar spent. With the Starwood Preferred Guest Business Credit Card from American

JANUARY 2019

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WHEN IT COMES TO AIRLINE co-branded credit cards, there’s a bounty available on the market. Chase Bank Credit Cards and United Airlines recently revamped the United Explorer Card, and it’s better than ever, offering two miles per $1 spent on United purchases, at restaurants and on hotel accommodations purchased directly with the hotel. The card’s business version includes a 10,000mile bonus after you reach $25,000 in purchases. United frequent flyers may also be interested in the United MileagePlus Club Card.

seat restrictions, and no minimum to redeem. This comes in handy if you just have a handful of points left over and want to apply them toward a gift card or cash out for the quarter. Spark also boasts flexibility with the ability to redeem on any airline, hotel or vacation packages without worrying about expiration dates for your points. There’s also zero fraud liability if your card is lost or stolen and free employee cards to earn even more on purchases.

ALTHOUGH THERE ARE LOTS of valuable business-focused credit cards, plenty of cards also cater to everyone, no matter the purpose of their travel. The Capital One Venture card rewards travelers with a flexible, straightforward way to earn and redeem miles. Travelers get a 50,000-mile bonus kickoff when opening their account and earn two times the miles on every purchase. Avid travelers will love the 10 times the miles on thousands of hotels, with the ability to redeem points for any airline or hotel without blackout dates. With global travelers in mind, the Venture card also waives foreign transaction fees and the annual fee for the first year. But unlike many of the other travel credit cards on this list, the Venture One card reimburses your application fee of up to $100 for Global Entry or TSA PreCheck. And whether you’re using the card for personal or business expenses, Venture One also offers extended warranty protection on eligible items purchased with your card. WHETHER YOU’RE A BUSINESS traveler or are just looking to travel more, Chase Sapphire Preferred offers a valuable and user-friendly card with plenty of perks. Users earn 50,000 bonus points after spending $4,000 in purchases in the first three months. Redeeming the bonus points breaks down to $625 for airfare or hotels and $500 if you take the cash option. This is also a quality card for travel expenses and will earn two times the points on travel, from airfare and hotels to taxis and trains, and three times the points on airfare booked directly with airlines. While you’re on the road, swipe your card at restaurants for two times the points.

LIKE MOST OF THE CARDS on this list, the Capital One Spark Miles for Business card extends a generous 50,000-mile bonus that equals $500 worth of travel. The required spend is a bit higher at $4,500 within three months of account opening. But it also offers unlimited two times the miles on all purchases without blackouts or

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JANUARY 2019

PERKS AND SIGNUP BONUSES for travel credit cards can change, so be sure to read the fine print or pick up the phone and call a representative to walk you through your options. Once you settle on a card (or several), you can start earning your way toward free travel and lots of perks of your own.

PHOTOS: © UNITED, © CAPITAL ONE, © CAPITAL ONE

Express, business travelers can amass up to 100,000 in bonus points after spending $5,000 in purchases in the first three months of card membership. There is also a waived annual fee the first year. But Starwood also offers ongoing perks like four times the points in select business and travel categories, free night awards and complimentary Silver elite status. And when travelers use the card for participating SPG and Marriott Rewards hotels, they earn six times the points. Cardholders can earn lots of travel points through Starwood, but travelers also see perks like premium on-property internet access and Boingo WiFi at more than a million hotspots worldwide, making it easier to work on the road. The details of the co-branded cards from Marriott International, including this one, may change as more details about the merged Marriott Rewards, Starwood Preferred Guest and The Ritz-Carlton Rewards programs come to light this month.

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Family-Friendly Global Traveler honors the winners of the first-ever Wherever Awards. BY KIMBERLY KROL JOIN US IN CONGRATULATING the inaugural winners of the 2018 Wherever Awards, the awards for the best in travel as decided by the readers of WhereverFamily, our sister web publication aimed at the modern traveling family. The ballot ran on whereverfamily.com from September 2017 to March 2018, with the winners announced in September 2018. Here we recap the winners as they proudly display Best their new awards.

WINNERS’ CIRCLE:

1. Buffi Planas, director of marketing strategy and corporate communications, Delta Vacations; Melissa Horne, advertising manager, Delta Vacations; Cathy Douville, senior manager, brand strategy and communications, Delta Vacations

Wherever Awards

2. Alison Metcalfe, executive vice president, USA & Canada, Tourism Ireland

2018

3. Charles “Chilly” Ewing, airport concessions director, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport

Family-Friendly Vacation Company

Delta Vacations

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JANUARY 2019

4. Elizabeth Bergman, vice president, product management, American Express 5. Ruth Daly, regional director, North America, Tourism Fiji

6. Robert Castro, director of marketing, Silversea Cruises 7. Nick Teare, vice president, global brand marketing, Marriott International – Luxury Brands 8. Mia Weech-Lange, director, global communications, The Bahamas Tourism Board 9. Vibhat Nair, general manager, Chase Bank Credit Cards 10. Efrem Berman, senior director, group loyalty and engagement, Radisson Hotel Group, and team

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY WATERPARK: Aquatica by SeaWorld PHOTO: © AQUATICA BY SEAWORLD

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY INDIVIDUAL HOTEL: Martinhal Sagres, Algarve PHOTO: © MARTINHAL SAGRES, ALGARVE

Best Family-Friendly Pet Hotel

Westin Hotels & Resorts Best Family-Friendly Hotel Kids Club

Wherever Awards

Atlantis Paradise Island, Bahamas Best Family-Friendly Vacation Company

Delta Vacations

2018

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Tour Company

Best Family-Friendly WINNERS’ LIST Vacation Company

Adventures by Disney

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airline Delta Vacations Alaska Airlines

Best Family-Friendly International Tour Company

Thomson Family Adventures

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL KIDS CLUB: Atlantis Paradise Island, Bahamas PHOTO: © ATLANTIS PARADISE ISLAND, BAHAMAS

Best Family-Friendly International Airline

Best Family-Friendly Cruise Line

TAP Air Portugal

Royal Caribbean

Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Flyer

Best Family-Friendly MultiGen

Program

Cruise Line

Delta SkyMiles

Silversea Cruises

Best Family-Friendly Hotel Chain

Best Family-Friendly Credit Card

The Ritz-Carlton

Blue Cash Preferred Card from American Express

Best Family-Friendly MultiGen

Best Family-Friendly Domestic Airport

Destination of the Year

Ireland

Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport

Marriott Rewards Visa Card from Chase

Best Family-Friendly Amusement Park

Best Family-Friendly International

Legoland California, Carlsbad

Airport

Best Family-Friendly International

Best Family-Friendly Waterpark

Destination

Aquatica by SeaWorld

Best Family-Friendly Airport Dining

Best Family-Friendly Rental Car Com-

Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport

Best Family-Friendly Resort Chain

Martinhal Family Hotels & Resorts, Portugal Best Family-Friendly Individual Hotel

Best Family-Friendly Credit Card Rewards Program

Singapore Changi Airport

Martinhal Sagres, Algarve Best Family-Friendly Frequent-Stay Program

Fiji

Radisson Rewards Best Family-Friendly All-Inclusive Hotel

Paradisus Playa del Carmen La Esmeralda, Mexico

Best Family-Friendly Domestic

pany

Destination

Avis

Orlando

Best Family-Friendly Airport Shopping

Dubai International Airport Best Family-Friendly Travel Provider of

Best Family-Friendly Caribbean Island

Bahamas

the Year

Lindblad Expeditions JANUARY 2019

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mice | WASHINGTON, D.C.

Dynamic D.C.

Meeting planners find Washington’s ever-changing nature irresistible. BY RON BERNTHAL CULINARY INNOVATION:

Kith/Kin restaurant at the InterContinental Washington D.C. – The Wharf PHOTO: © JUAN CARLOS BRINCENO

IT IS SAID OUR NATION’S CAPITAL city reinvents itself every four years, which may be an unsettling scenario for some visitors. It’s music to the ears of MICE planners, however, who look forward to the many new restaurants, hotels, off-site meeting venues and the ever-changing social and political climate so reflective of Washington, D.C., one of the country’s most dynamic cities. Destination DC, the city’s official destination marketing organization, reports the U.S. capital hosted more than 22.8 million domestic and international business and leisure visitors in 2017, the eighth straight year of record visitor figures. And a staggering number of new hospitality and cultural venues recently opened or will open shortly.

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Estimated figures for 2019 show Washington will welcome at least 21 citywide conventions and special events, generating 359,557 total room nights and an estimated economic impact of $341 million. D.C. ranks among the top three North American meeting destinations, according to STR’s 2017 DestinationMAP (Meeting Assessment Program). The Walter E. Washington Convention Center is the city’s main MICE venue for large conventions and exhibitions. The building offers 2.3 million square feet and can handle 500 to 42,000 attendees. One of the most energy-efficient buildings in the nation for its size, the Convention Center provides 77 breakout rooms and the largest ballroom in the region. The 1,175-room Marriott Marquis Washington, DC, the only property with direct access to the Convention Center via an underground concourse, features an additional 105,000 square feet of event space. CityCenterDC will be a 10-acre, mixed-use luxury downtown development when fully completed later this year, but about 30 upscale shops and restaurants are already open for business. The $250 million, 360-room Herzog & de Meurondesigned Conrad Washington, DC Hotel, a five-minute walk from the Convention Center, opens in February. In downtown D.C.’s Mount Vernon Square, a $122.5 million mega-complex is being erected across from the Convention Center. The mixed-use development incorporates 15 historic buildings and is expected to open early this year. Another project opening near the Convention Center this year, Columbia Place, a 480,000-square-foot project, features a dual-brand hotel (357-room Courtyard

INSPIRING VENUES:

The Washington National Cathedral (top), and Smithsonian National Postal Museum (bottom) PHOTOS: © CHANSAK AROONMANAKUL - DREAMSTIME .COM, © RITU JETHANI - DREAMSTIME.COM

UNIQUE VENUES

by Marriott and 147-room Residence Inn) and a 203-unit apartment complex. The Wharf district opened just two years ago, transforming the city’s Southwest Waterfront. It features four rentable public piers and a new performance venue, The Anthem, with flexible capacity for 2,000–6,000 persons. New hotels in this district include the 278-room InterContinental Washington D.C. – The Wharf with 17,000 square feet of meeting space and the Caribbean-style Kith/Kin restaurant. The 175-room Canopy by Hilton offers a 10th-floor rooftop lounge and a large outdoor terrace, while Hyatt House, with 237 rooms, provides indoor/outdoor meeting space. The 317-room W Washington D.C. hotel, a 1917 Beaux Arts building across from The White House, embarked on a $50 million top-to-bottom renovation expected to be complete by this spring. In addition to all guestrooms, the renovations include the hotel’s modern rooftop bar and a new lobby design to include a waterfall and a seemingly endless mirror honoring the Lincoln Memorial’s Reflecting Pool. For planners interested in D.C.’s culinary draw, the metropolitan area finally has a Michelin 3-starred restaurant. In the 2019 edition of Michelin’s guide to Washington, D.C., Chef Patrick O’Connell’s Inn at Little Washington became the first Michelin 3-starred restaurant in the D.C. area. Although located 68 miles away (in Washington, Virginia), the 19th-century property offers private dinner, reception and meeting options for 30–90 persons. Fortunately, D.C. offers many other fine-dining res-

Officina, the tri-level culinary playground Nicholas Stefanelli opened at the Wharf last fall, is already a buzz-worthy leisure and corporate venue. D.C. architecture firm Grupo used blue tiling, wood accents, soft lighting and black-and-white flooring across the space. The Mercato is a replica of an Italian market; the first-floor Café offers Italian snacks and a gelato bar; the à la carte Trattoria Stefanelli’s, focusing on casual southern Italian food, includes a 12-seat private dining room overlooking the water; and Terraza, with its year-round alfresco rooftop and 70 seats, also offers an adjacent 64-seat private event space with prime waterfront views. Private events represent a big part of the operation, and the whole venue can be bought out to accommodate 500-plus guests. officinadc.com The REACH at the John F. Kennedy Center is a new venue being created at this noted performing arts center. It will add 2,500 square feet of new performance space; 7,500 square feet of pre-function and event space with new art installations; and a terrace for up to 1,600 — all opening Sept. 7. cms.kennedy-center.org/thereach/about

taurants, several with at least one Michelin star, including the 2-starred Pineapple and Pearls and José Andrés’ Minibar; and 1-starred venues like Bresca; Masseria; Métier, offering a seven-course tasting menu; and Komi, serving a “leisurely” 12-course tasting menu. Other properties of interest to planners include Capitol Hill’s Spanish-themed tapas bar Joselito Casa de Comidas and Wharf district newcomer Kaliwa with its Southeast Asian fare. D.C.’s first SLS-branded property, the 175-room SLS Hotel Washington, is expected to open in 2020 with 10,000 square feet of meeting and ballroom space in the city’s Mount Vernon Triangle neighborhood. As another sign of the city’s hotel boom, its first Virgin Hotels property will feature 178 rooms, a panoramic rooftop lounge with an infinity pool, and multiple meeting and event spaces when it opens in the fast-growing Union Market district in 2021.

The Smithsonian National Postal Museum in the heart of Capitol Hill is perfect for all types of events, from galas and seated dinners to cocktail receptions. Its 90-foot-high Atrium features three vintage airmail planes suspended above the space, while the historic Beaux Arts lobby features a rosette ceiling and elegant marble floors and columns. postalmuseum.si.edu The Washington National Cathedral, with its stunning interior, hosts events in its Bethlehem Chapel, the nave and the Pilgrim Observation Gallery, offering panoramic views of the skyline. The National Law Enforcement Museum, a new building opened last October in Judiciary Square, features interactive exhibits and 21,000 artifacts and provides private event space. cathedral.org lawenforcementmuseum.org

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Stay Awhile Experience Portugal through TAP Air Portugal’s Stopover program, featuring new service from Chicago, Washington, D.C. and San Francisco in 2019.

WHEN YOU FLY WITH TAP AIR PORTUGAL, experience two destinations for the price of one with the Portugal Stopover program. Introduced in September 2016, the Portugal Stopover program offers travelers the opportunity to spend up to 5 nights in Lisbon or Porto, on the way to their final destination, without charging any additional airfare. Booking a stopover itinerary is simple. When booking the flight through TAP’s website, simply select the desired origin and destination, then select which city to stopover in (Lisbon or Porto), decide if the stopover will be on the outbound or inbound flight, and how many nights will be spent in the stopover city. Travelers originating

in any of TAP’s North American Gateways (New York JFK, New York EWR, Boston, Miami, Toronto and starting June 2019 Chicago, Washington D.C., and San Francisco can enjoy a Portugal Stopover to any destination throughout Europe and Africa. The Portugal Stopover is applicable to those flying in either business class or economy. Itineraries booked through Travel Agencies are also eligible for the Portugal Stopover. Making a stop in Portugal an integral part of your trip continues to get better. Hotels offer special rates, some restaurants offer free bottles of wine for stopover customers and certain experiences and tours are offered at discounted rates. Making use of the stopover program is easy, as

Explore any of the following destinations with a Portugal Stopover in either Lisbon or Porto: Portugal’s own Faro, Funchal, Ponta Delgada, Porto, Porto Santo, and Terceira; France’s Bordeaux, Lyon, Marseille, Nantes, Nice, Paris, and Toulouse; Germany’s Berlin, Cologne, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Munich and Stuttgart; Italy’s Bologna, Florence, Milan, Naples (2019), Rome, and Venice; Spain’s Alicante, Barcelona, Bilbao, Las Palmas, Madrid, Málaga, Seville, Tenerife (2019), Valencia, and Vigo; the United Kingdom’s London and Manchester; and Amsterdam, The Netherlands; Brussels, Belgium; Copenhagen, Denmark; Helsinki, Finland; City of Luxembourg, Luxembourg; Moscow, Russia; Oslo, Norway; Prague, Czech Republic; Stockholm, Sweden; Vienna, Austria; Warsaw, Poland; Basel (2019), Geneva and Zurich, Switzerland; Bucharest, Romania; Budapest, Hungary; Dublin, Ireland (2019). African destinations include Abidjan, Accra, Bissau, Boa Vista, Casablanca, Dakar, Fez, Lomé, Luanda, Maputo, Marrakesh, Praia, Sal, Sao Tome, Sao Vicente, Tangier. Tel Aviv is also coming in 2019.

For further flight information please contact your local travel agent.

well. Passengers can download the Portugal Stopover app, which identifies them and their itinerary. In addition, the app can help navigate the city and see which hotels, restaurants and experiences offer exclusive perks for guests visiting on the stopover program. Soak up the value of your benefits for up to 5 nights, and hop back on your plane to finish your journey. Instead of waiting around the airport for your flight, you took in a new culture. Get more vacation, out of your vacation with a Portugal Stopover. Learn more at portugalstopover.flytap.com.

Best Airline in Europe

TAP Air Portugal Eighth Consecutive Year

2018

BUSINESS destinations

HYDERABAD

HONOLULU

BUENOS AIRES

MÁLAGA

LEISURE destinations

LAGOS

JURASSIC COAST ga ng N a h P d in wn as n a l e o s , kn le in th us i n o a m K ro fa hing or its ost P m o e f un.’ ha d Th G n K n a l e is Is ld Bay ond the Go B s h e Jam an wit M ‘The

POLAR BEAR ENCOUNTER

PHUKET

destination one | HYDERABAD

Hub of Opportunity Once famous for jewels, Hyderabad shines as a high-tech capital. BY SHARON MCDONNELL OLD AND NEW: Charminar (left), and the Cyber Gateway office complex in HITEC City (right) PHOTOS: © SNEHITDESIGN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © AMANDA LEWIS DREAMSTIME.COM

ONCE ONE OF INDIA’S RICHEST states due to fabulously wealthy Muslim dynasties that ruled it for centuries, this south-central Indian city has a new source of prosperity: technology. Google, Amazon, Microsoft, Facebook, Oracle, Apple, Dell, Accenture and Deloitte have offices in the city once renowned for gem trading. The world’s most famous jewels, the Koh-i-Noor and Hope diamonds, came from mines near Golconda Fort. But today’s nickname for the City of Pearls, second only to Bangalore in India for high tech, is Cyberabad. In fact, the CEOs of Microsoft, Adobe Systems and MasterCard even attended the same high school in Hyderabad, a private school modeled after Eton. (Microsoft CEO Satya Nadella and Adobe CEO Shantanu Narayen were born here; MasterCard CEO Ajaypal Singh Banga was not.) Microsoft maintains its India headquarters here, though it operates nine offices in India.

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JANUARY 2019

COMING AND GOING

All U.S. citizens require a valid passport and valid visa to enter India. Your passport must be valid for at least six months and have at least four blank pages (though instructions say two). Get a visa from the Indian Embassy, your nearest Indian consulate or Cox & Kings Global Services before arrival.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Telugu, but Urdu and Hindi are widely spoken. English is the language of business.

The streamlined, efficient airport won the No. 1 airport award in Airports Council International’s Airport Service Quality survey in 2016 and 2017 in its size category, plus its 2018 Green Gold award for its eco-friendliness. Hyderabad Metro Rail, an elevated rapid transit train opened in late 2017, soars above the city’s traffic snarls and is already expanding; some train stations have grocery and convenience stores catering to IT staffers working odd hours. HITEC City, opened in the western suburbs in 1998, is growing by leaps and bounds. India’s first IKEA even opened here last August, bringing traffic to a screeching halt, with mobs of locals delighted the Swedish furniture chain outlet is identical to those they’d seen in the United States and Europe (though samosas and pakoras join Swedish meatballs in the cafeteria). In total contrast, you’ll still see burqa-clad women and the occasional camel and cow in the Old City, along with magnificent palaces, frenetic bazaars, traditional crafts and more gems than you can possibly imagine. The former rulers wore turban ornaments set in diamonds, rubies and emeralds and used the 183-carat Jacob diamond as a paperweight. Hyderabad dominates as the only sizable city in Telangana, India’s newest

LODGING ITC KOHENUR Suites at this contemporary-style luxury hotel in HITEC City are some of the city’s biggest. Eco-friendly features include a living roof and vertical gardens. More than half the rooms offer views of Durgam Lake. Plot No. 5, Survey No. 83/1 $$ TAJ FALAKNUMA PALACE This opulent hotel in a former royalty guest palace perches on 32 acres overlooking the Old City. A princess supervised the decora-

tion of the 60 rooms and suites. A banquet hall boasts a table seating 101 people. Engine Bowli, Fatima Nagar, Falaknuma $$$$ TAJ KRISHNA Nestled in manicured gardens, this luxury hotel features old-world details from chandeliers to motherof-pearl inlaid marble pillars. Elegant rooms have city or lake views, and club floors include butler service and a lounge. Road No. 1, Mada Manzil, Banjara Hills

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LAVISH LIFESTYLE:

state, which in 2014 split off from Andhra Pradesh. Before that, Hyderabad was a princely state, divided in 1956 among Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra and Karnataka. Once as big as France, during its glory days the Qutub Shahi kings ruled in the 16th and 17th centuries, followed by Mughal emperors. But from 1724 to India’s independence in 1948, the Asaf Jahi dynasty reigned, calling themselves Nizams. Of the Nizams, a maharajah commented, “If, on a pair of weighing scales you put all the 565 maharajahs and rajas on one side and the Nizam on the other, they would perhaps be equally balanced.”

Chowmahalla Palace (above), and Falaknuma Palace dining room (right) PHOTOS: © SHAILENDRA SOOD DREAMSTIME.COM, © BEVANWARD - DREAMSTIME.COM

The r Noo i , h Ko amond i d t of par tish Bri e h wn t Cro s wa els, by w e J n wor en Que s ia a tor ch. c i V roo a b

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DIVERSIONS

To glimpse the Nizams’ lavish lifestyle, check out the guest palace where royalty like Queen Mary and King George V of England and the czar of Russia once stayed: It’s now the Taj Falaknuma Palace hotel. Even non-guests who come to dine or sip cocktails can take a free tour of the surprisingly European-looking palace behind a magnificent Neoclassical façade, built 1884–1893 (reservation required). The entrance foyer, with its white marble cherubbedecked fountain and frescoed walls and ceiling, will remind you of Italy; the silk and brocade wall hangings and furniture, of France; the library (with the coffered wood ceiling inspired by Windsor Castle’s library), stained glass and busts of British royalty,

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CHECKING IN WITH JONTY RANJAGOPALAN Owner, Detours India

CULTURAL FABRIC:

What kind of insider experiences do you offer? Detours India visits workshops or homes of various artisans, showcasing fabric painting techniques like kalamkari; metal crafts like bidri and pembarthi; weaving techniques like himroo and paithani; and scroll painting, called cherial. We do cooking classes and meals in people’s homes. Our White Mughal history tour tells the story of a British East India Co. official who married a relative of the Nizam’s prime minister and built a mansion here. What brought you to Hyderabad? I moved to Hyderabad more than a decade ago when I was working for the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, overseeing its HIV prevention program in Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, and Manipur and Nagaland in northeast India. I’m from a small city in northeast India. What cultural differences should foreign investors be aware of when doing business in India? In India there is a bigger focus on relationship-building, and Americans working here quickly realize its importance. Decisionmaking is not just based on logic and reasoning. The level of comfort in a business relationship is also important. How has the city changed? I’ve seen the growth of HITEC City and the shift of retail and other businesses to that area. Hyderabad has become more cosmopolitan with more global citizens making it their home. The city is a blend of cultures from north and south India, a cultural mishmash. What major developments do you foresee for Hyderabad? The new state government strived to reshape policies to bring in foreign investment and improve the ease of doing business in Telangana. Many infrastructure improvements are planned, from building expressways and underpasses to a monorail.

DINING FUSION 9 Enjoy a global menu from Indian to Western matched by a global choice of cocktails in a stylish, contemporary setting in the posh Jubilee Hills. Fusion 9 serves a popular Sunday brunch. Plot No. 885, Road No. 45, Jubilee Hills $$ SIMPLY SOUTH Winner of the Times of India award for best south Indian fine dining, this restaurant showcases food from five south Indian states in a contemporary space in Jubilee Hills (and a branch in HITEC City). Plot No. 258, Road No. 82, Film Nagar f $$ SO THE SKY KITCHEN Candlelit dining on this rooftop terrace with a park view and live music make a most memorable experience. Its big menu roams from north India, Southeast Asia and China to the Mediterranean. No.550-F, Aryans Building, Road No. 92, Jubilee Hills $$

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ARTS AND CRAFTS: Sculpture at Salarjung Museum (left), and colorful bangles for Sale at the Laad Bazaar near Charminar (right) PHOTOS: © SHAILENDRA SOOD DREAMSTIME.COM, © RAKESH KRISHNOTULA - DREAMSTIME.COM

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +5.5 Phone code: Country Code: 91 City Code: 40 Currency: Indian rupee Key industries: IT, biotechnology, film, jewelry, textile manufacturing, trade

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of England; plus a dose of exotic Orientalism. To see a gigantic treasure trove of art and antiques amassed by the prime minister to the last Nizam, visit the Salarjung Museum, whose 40,000 objects make it India’s third-largest museum. The eclectic array includes Mughal miniature paintings; Indian bronze, stone and wood sculptures; marble statues by Italian sculptors; a splendid jade collection; Chinese porcelain; Japanese lacquerware; a dagger owned by Shah Jahan (the Mughal emperor who built the Taj Mahal); Persian rugs; and European oil paintings. Climb the staircase at Charminar, the massive minaret-topped arch built in 1591 that’s the iconic symbol of Hyderabad (its own Arc de Triomphe), for a panorama of the Old City. Next to it, bazaars sell pearls, jewelry, perfumes, bangles (made in a rainbow of colors from resin, set with stones or beads), silk saris, antiques, spices, art and fabrics.

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Talk about fashionistas: The Nizam’s wardrobe closet, more than 160 feet long and two stories high, wins, hands down. You’ll gape at this and more than 450 items owned by the last Nizam at H.E.H The Nizam’s Museum, located in Purani Haveli palace. See everything, from the marble bed, bureau and writing table elephants carried on his hunting trips to his gold-burnished wood throne, models of buildings built by the Nizams in pure silver, and bling galore. Companies can hold dinners and receptions in the grand hall, lit by 17 crystal chandeliers, and courtyards at Chowmahalla Palace, a meticulously restored palace complex built in 1750 where the Nizams entertained official guests. South India’s film industry, Tollywood, is based at Ramoji Film City. A bus tour lets you visit movie and TV sets and the many gardens, from topiaries of elephants and peacocks to Japanese designs.

INFO TO GO

Major airlines fly into Hyderabad Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, 15 miles southwest of the city. The Pushpak air-conditioned express bus to major locations like HITEC City takes an hour and runs every half-hour or hour, 4 a.m.–11 p.m. A taxi (locate a prepaid booth in the arrivals hall) costs $10 or less. Uber makes airport pickups.

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9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT Members Section passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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stateside | HONOLULU

Protecting Paradise Amid steady growth, Honolulu looks to maintain its original charm. BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY THE BEACH AND BEYOND:

he of t One ular p t po the mos n i ches ulu’s bea l ono ld, H draws r o w i ikik itors Wa s v e i mor y other an e. than he stat t n i

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FOR A CITY THAT RECEIVES MORE than 5 million visitors a year — a number rising steadily — growth can be difficult to manage. With a reputation as the crossroads to tropical paradise throughout the Pacific, Honolulu is known for its friendly, welcoming people and magnificent natural beauty. U.S. residents need no passport to enter the 50th state, and visitors and business travelers often decide they want to enjoy this climate and lifestyle year-round — and plan their relocation. Many locals feel the pressure and expect their government to retain the charm and scale of their neighborhoods, parks, retail establishments and local restaurants. As an example, Honolulu’s mayor recently proposed a moratorium on building permits for what he called “monster homes.” These huge homes disrupt the older, established neighborhoods and put a strain on city services and utilities. But, of

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course, exceptions will be granted in certain cases, and property values will continue to rise. Tourism will grow, and facilities for business meetings and hotel rooms and services will expand to meet these demands. The sunshine factor, mountains, beaches and deep-blue waters prove powerful drivers of growth for any city. Honolulu is virtually surrounded by military installations, which further puts some land out of play for residents and developers alike. They also drive an economic engine for the city and residents and maintain considerable green space that can’t be developed. Two areas expect renewed plans for growth in coming years: Kaka’ako, between downtown Honolulu and Waikiki and famous for a vibrant neighborhood food scene, and Kapolei, a fastgrowing town outside the city but close to Ko Olina Beach and Paradise Cove on the leeward side of Oahu. Hotel availability and cost also affect visitor growth. Affordability for families and groups is high on the wish list for travelers. A new concept, “limited service” hotels, emerged to help fill the cost gap in the city. If a family or visitor doesn’t need or won’t use a spa, gym, pool or bar and restaurant with a full staff, hotels without these amenities can offer significantly lower room costs. Nevertheless, Honolulu’s hotels and meeting facilities continue to grow and expand. Following a $35 million renovation, the independent boutique Queen Kapiolani Hotel reopened with a 1960s

PICTURE-PERFECT:

Hanauma Bay (top), and Queen Kapiolani Hotel balcony (bottom left) and artwork (bottom right) PHOTOS: © KRIDSADA KAMSOMBAT - DREAMSTIME.COM, © QUEEN KAPIOLANI HOTEL

SCENIC DRIVES

theme and original art from the Bishop Museum, a new pool deck and the best views of Diamond Head on Waikiki. The Shoreline Hotel, also on Waikiki, invested in updates that feature bold art and graphics to become the city’s most Instagram-able property in an attempt to attract younger guests. For guests who just can’t leave the charms of Honolulu, several new condominium buildings are under construction in the Kaka’ako, Ala Moana and Waikiki sections of the city. One of the most innovative additions for connecting with the locals, especially those in the creative arts, is a new cellphone app, Art World Escape — AWE — which enables users to discover the true Honolulu. You can spend a few hours a day or hit the streets for the nightlife you won’t find in the guidebooks, all with a connected local in that field: painters, graffiti artists, musicians and local foodies. Want to experience hip-hop Hawai’ianstyle or be one of the first to visit Michael Mina’s new

restaurant at the International Market Place? The AWE has the potential to turn a predictable tropical vacation into a true travel experience. And you might make some interesting new friends in the process.

Heading east out of Honolulu on H1 to the island’s arid south shore, the topography changes quickly due to the lack of rainfall. Past Diamond Head and Kahala, you’ll see cactus blooming but few palm trees. Some locals call it a moonscape. Plan a stop at the KoKo Crater just off Hanauma Bay, a great spot to cool off with a quick swim. Don’t miss the Halona Blowhole, where the ocean blows up through a rock about 30 feet in the air and offers a stunning view of Sandy Beach, the most dangerous beach in Hawai’i. An ambulance permanently stands by each day, but body boarders love the place. A bit farther before you turn north find the Makapu’u Lighthouse. Climb the 647-foot tower for great views and, in the winter, some whale spotting. Now turn north on Route 72 back to lush vegetation and calmer beaches like Kailua Park. If you’re ready for lunch, locals love the vegetarian fare at ’Ai Love Nalo not far up the highway. Afterward, return to the city quickly on the H3 or continue north and explore Mokapu Point. Take H1 north from the city and then H2 through central Oahu past the famous Dole plantation and on to Haleiwa on Route 99 and the beginning of the North Shore beaches, home to some of the tallest waves in the world. Continue on Route 83 as you wave-watch and break for lunch at the outdoor gardens at Waimea Falls Park after a tour of the falls. Continue north to the world-famous Sunset Beach, the location for many surfer movies. Stay for a traditional dinner under the stars and enjoy the performances at the famous Polynesian Cultural Center off Route 83. Return to the city on H3 with spectacular mountain and city views.

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9–5 | BUENOS AIRES

Cosmopolitan Chic Tap into boundless sophisticated options for impressing clients in Buenos Aires. BY ARI BENDERSKY TIMELESS TREASURES:

UNTIL YOU VISIT, you may never know the extent of Buenos Aires’ cosmopolitanism. From design and architecture to technology and banking — and across all the arts — Buenos Aires truly has a global feel that rivals Paris, New York and Tokyo. While it’s on the water, Buenos Aires is not a beach destination like Rio but rather a port city — hence locals are called porteños and have a zest for life and want to share it with all who visit. Almost as soon as you enter this beautiful Argentine capital, it becomes obvious just how fantastic this energetic metropolitan city truly is. You’ll likely spend most of your time between upscale, classic Recoleta; chic, eclectic and fashionable Palermo; and the romantic and gentrified San Telmo, where you’ll find a sprawling open-air antique flea market each Sunday. But the Central Business District of La Citi, between the San Nicolás, Montserrat and Retiro neighborhoods, is home to the Buenos Aires Stock Exchange, Argentina’s Central Bank and other financial institutions.

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No matter where you gather with colleagues and clients, you’ll notice quite quickly the European influence on the city’s architecture. Waves of immigrants from Spain, Italy and Germany — and what now comprises the world’s sixth-largest Jewish community — all arrived in Buenos Aires in the 19th and 20th centuries, bringing with them design, culture and gastronomy. All over the city their impact can be observed by simply walking around the neighborhoods and looking up at the homes and buildings. You’ll especially see it at Teatro Colón, one of the most important opera houses in the world, where singer Maria Callas famously performed and which offers group tours. At the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires, modern and folk art converge in permanent and rotating exhibits. You can experience it in any number of the city’s top spots to watch the romantic, sensual tango shows — and learn a few moves yourself in this, the world’s tango capital. You’ll even encounter it in La Recoleta Cemetery, a neighborhood in its own right where some of the city’s most important residents, including Eva Perón, are buried. When it comes to business, Buenos Aires’ numerous industries converge. In 2017 the city was named a smart city due to its welcoming attitude toward innovation, entrepre-

neurship, technology and app development. The newer Buenos Aires Exhibition and Convention Centre hosted the 2017 Smart City Expo World Conference, where visitors from around the world came to discuss open government, sustainable urban planning, digital innovation and city life. In late 2018 Buenos Aires welcomed the G20 Summit for the first time, coinciding with Argentine president Mauricio Macri serving as the head of the powerful Group of 20. While all this business activity may seem vast and even disparate, one thing that ties most things together in this fast-paced city — where dinners often don’t start until 9 or 10 p.m. — is a vibrant cocktail culture. Whether you’re meeting over lunch at one of the many parrillas (steakhouses) like Don Julio, having drinks after work or going out to bars or clubs after dinner, cocktail culture thrives in Buenos Aires. You can find great drinks everywhere, whether in upscale Recoleta hotels like the Four Seasons, Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt or the Alvear Palace Hotel; cool boutiques like Fierro Hotel, Mine Hotel and Faena Hotel; or in hip bars and speakeasies throughout the city. Consider entertaining at Floreria Atlantico, one of the world’s most celebrated bars, which honors the city’s immigrant culture. Hidden behind a secret door inside a working flower shop in Recoleta, this speakeasy bar, on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, serves a cocktail menu reflecting global cultures. A few blocks away, Presidente Bar from celebrated mixologist Seba Garcia offers sophistication not only in the décor but also in the drinks. If your clients are more serious about their cocktails, ask the Presidente staff to open the door to the Library, a hidden bar tucked away through a door off a hallway at the back of the bar, where an entirely different batch of cocktails emerges, sure to impress. Across town in Palermo, cocktails converge with gastronomy, and ingredients like sesame oil, acai caviar, blue cheese and pumpkin syrup drive the flavors at Anasagasti. Buenos Aires may seem meat-heavy, but don’t be fooled into thinking the city doesn’t have a vibrant culinary scene ready to please any palate. The aforementioned Jewish population is making headway, opening a number of innovative restaurants like Mishiguene and Fayer from celebrated chef Tomas Kalika, introducing porteños to a mix of Middle Eastern and Eastern European delicacies with a modern twist. Vegan and vegetarian cuisine pushed to the fore and is available at places like Bio. Local cuisine gets celebrated at El Baqueano in San Telmo, where you’ll find tri-colored quinoa, llama tartare and wines from throughout Argentina all paired to an experiential tasting menu. And cafés with locally roasted coffee and yerba mate abound. Whether this is your first visit to Buenos Aires or you’re coming back to mix business with pleasure, you’ll find many new discoveries while connecting with clients old and new. Because when all is said and done, nobody is a stranger in Buenos Aires — at least not once you finish that first round of cocktails with the table of porteños next to you.

HERITAGE AND HISTORY: The Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires (top), and mausoleums at La Recoleta Cemetery (middle and bottom) PHOTOS: © PEEK CREATIVE COLLECTIVE - DREAMSTIME .COM, © WELTREISENDERTJ - DREAMSTIME.COM, © WELTREISENDERTJ DREAMSTIME.COM

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after 5 | MÁLAGA

Eclectic and Electric From food to flamenco, Málaga lights up the night. BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

EVENING STROLL:

The Málaga coast (left), and the decorated pedestrian street Calle Larios (below)

ALTHOUGH SPAIN’S COSTA DEL SOL boasts more hours of sunlight than any other place in Europe, in Málaga the heat turns up as the sun goes down. Shops stay open until 9 p.m., and the main shopping street is a broad, car-free boulevard where you can stroll amid sculptures and cafés. This is Picasso’s hometown, so get in a little sightseeing on the Picasso Trail to his childhood home and other sites, including Santiago Church, one of the city’s loveliest and the site of his baptism. It’s open until 9 p.m., and the excellent Picasso Museum Málaga remains open until 8 p.m. in the summer, 7 p.m. spring and fall. Here, as in Madrid, rooftop terraces prove popular places for a sunset drink. For the best city views, especially of the cathedral, try the AC Hotel Palacio. For views of the old Alcazaba Fortress and Roman Theatre, go to Batik Club at the Alcazaba Premium Hostel. Consider staying for dinner at Batik Restaurant for some of the city’s best fusion cuisine. Don’t miss seeing flamenco while you’re in Andalucía; combine it with another Spanish tradition at Restaurante Tipi Tapa, where in addition to one of the city’s most authentic flamenco shows you can choose from more than 150 different tapas. Mix authentic flamenco with another Málaga tradition at Tablao Los Amayas, where two nightly shows feature Picasso & Flamenco. Dinner serves up late in Málaga, and clubs rev up even later — into one of Spain’s best live music scenes. The Clarence Jazz Club on Calle Cañón hosts jazz concerts several nights a week, and The Wall Bar at

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JANUARY 2019

the Hotel Posada del Patio features live jazz on weekends. At the brash, noisy ZZ Pub you’ll hear rock and blues on Thursdays and pop rock other nights. If you prefer classical music, the Málaga Philharmonic Orchestra offers concerts at the Cervantes Theatre. There’s little exclusively gay nightlife because Málaga — and Spain in general — is so inclusive. But the Calle de Bruselas and El Carmen cafés and others around Plaza de la Merced stand out as popular meeting spots. For late-night music, check out nearby Peter Pan and La Comedia, on Calle La Comedia, an LGBTQ+ nightclub with cabaret and drag acts.

Lively Lagos Discover the dynamic spirit of Nigeria’s largest city. BY RICHARD NEWTON

IF YOU DECIDED TO BUILD a city for 16 million people, you probably wouldn’t put it on swampy land around a tropical coastal lagoon in West Africa. But Lagos (pronounced LAY-goss), Nigeria’s largest city, defied planners and politicians. Despite concerted efforts to shift the center of gravity elsewhere (Abuja replaced Lagos as national capital in 1991), this lively, shambolic, infuriating, colorful metropolis continues to expand and thrive, establishing itself as the fourth-wealthiest city in Africa after Johannesburg, Cairo and Cape Town. Wealth probably isn’t the thing you think of at first sight. Large sections of the city give over to smoke-shrouded shantytowns, home to two-thirds of the population. One such shanty, Makoko, spreads out into the lagoon as a vast, dense jumble of rickety wooden houses built on stilts. By extreme contrast, a new Lagos extension is currently being built on reclaimed land adjacent to the affluent Victoria Island district. Eko Atlantic will initially be home to a quarter of a million residents, with a skyscraper skyline reminiscent of Dubai or Singapore. The new development is already creating waves in Lagos — literally. The reclaimed land altered the coastal currents and made other sections of the shoreline vulnerable to ocean surges. Which district is representative of Lagos? Ramshackle Makoko or futuristic Eko Atlantic? For me, there’s no contest. Makoko remains the true embodiment of Lagos.

ps grou c i t ethn ifferen 00 d 5 0 50 han than e t ia. r e o r o M iger m N g n t i i k b inha spea ges a u g lan

Yes, Lagos boasts an emergent middle class for whom Eko Atlantic proves the aspirational pinnacle. But the majority of the city’s inhabitants subsist from day to day in borderline poverty. Makoko, with its houses patched up with plastic sheeting and rusty corrugated iron, lapped by water swilling with pollution, seems at first sight a nightmare of destitution. But look closer and you’ll find a thriving, dynamic community. Floating churches and schools help to provide social cohesion amid the chaotic sprawl. There are shops and basic services. Dugout canoes provide the main form of transport. Nobody knows precisely how many people live here: perhaps as many as 300,000. With their extraordinary resilience, the inhabitants of Makoko embody the spirit of Lagos.

NIGER

NIGERIA

CH AD

neighborhoods | LAGOS

Lagos CAMEROUN

CONTRASTING VIEWS: Lagos waterfront neighborhood (top) and skyline at night as seen across the lagoon and creeks (bottom) PHOTOS: © LEON VITI - DREAMSTIME.COM, © MATTHEW OMOJOLA DREAMSTIME.COM

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WHERE YOU WANT TO BE

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Mexico

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Paradisus Playa del Carmen

they do this is separate offerings for families and adults only. Family Concierge, a room category that enables guests to enjoy a cherished family holiday, ensures all Paradisus properties are equipped to provide both adults and kids with an immersive vacation experience. Varying slightly from property to property, families are offered personalized services and numerous amenities, such as exclusive check-in and check-out services, complimentary milk and cookie turndown specials, a kid’s welcome kit upon arrival, spacious family suites and even an exclusive pool and beach area. When it comes to adults-only vacations, Paradisus by Meliá offers a place to connect and reconnect with nature, loved ones and oneself, labeled the Royal Service room category. Inclusive of the category are skilled Royal Service butlers trained to pamper guests with their every need. These on-call butlers aid in securing priority reservations with delectable on-site

dining venues, and they can plan for single, couple or group outings and more. This offering is an exclusive and secluded, adults-only environment, featuring a VIP-style lounge complete with cocktails, snacks and a library of locally inspired books for borrowing and specialty Royal Service areas within restaurants, bars, pools and sections of the beach. As an added cost, adult resort guests can also indulge in luxurious spa treatments and dining at Martin Bersategui’s restaurants across the properties — TEMPO, PASSION and Gastro Bar. Michelin star-rated Chef Martin Bersategui treats travelers to a divine, culinary experience marked by his signature, world-class Basque-French cuisine served in an opulent atmosphere. Boasting a robust menu of tranquil spa and beauty treatments, YHI Spa provides guests with rejuvenating relaxation areas, wet areas/ludic pool and massage cabins. They introduced MAIA Signature Treatments by Natura Bissé in December 2018 at The Grand Reserve at Paradisus Palma Real as well. For more information, contact 1.888.741.5600 or Paradisus.com

friends & family | JURASSIC COAST

Travel Through Time Explore the spectacular landscape of England’s Jurassic Coast. BY JAN SCHRODER t Coas c i s s y onl ura The J ngland’s orld is E ural W e, nat age sit t Heri ated in n desig 2001.

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The phrase “take a step back in time” may be overused, but there’s nowhere on the planet where it rings truer than on the Jurassic Coast of England. Visitors can step back 185 million years on this 95-mile-long coastline in southern England. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the coast runs from Exmouth in East Devon to Studland in Dorset and is a popular destination for its massive, towering cliffs; unique geological formations; and quaint villages. Activities include digging for ancient fossils, engaging in water sports, hiking one of the most scenic and undeveloped coastlines in the world, visiting a 12th-century castle or just relaxing in a traditional English pub. Start your visit in centrally located Weymouth, in the county of Dorset, popular for its golden-sand, three-mile beach. If you’re bringing the family along, the children will enjoy seasonal donkey rides and Punch and Judy puppet shows on the beach. Stroll along the historic and picturesque harbor area where old fishing boats and kayakers share the water with yachts and luxurious cruisers. Shops, pubs and restaurants line the harbor, making it a

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FINDING FOSSILS:

Lulworth Cove

INFO TO GO

Three train railway lines run from London to stops on the Jurassic Coast. The trip takes around three hours. Once you reach your desired stop, you can travel by taxi or by buses serving the area. If you plan to see a good portion of the Jurassic Coast, you may wish to rent a car. If you choose to drive from London, the trip will take approximately three hours.

COASTAL EROSION: Durdle Door

LODGING LYMPSTONE MANOR The popular, Michelinstarred chef Michael Caines earned another Michelin star for the restaurant in this 21-room property housed in a historic Georgian manor home opened in 2017. Courtlands Lane, Exmouth $$$$–$$$$$ SIDMOUTH HARBOR HOTEL & SPA The Upper Deck Restaurant and many of the 50 rooms at this contemporary spa hotel offer magnificent sea views of Lyme Bay.

perfect spot to spend a few hours. For a good view of a large portion of the coast, head to the Jurassic Skyline attraction, where you will ascend 174 feet in a circular capsule, which then fully rotates twice for 360-degree views. On the must-see list for the Jurassic Coast are Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door. You don’t have to be a geologist to appreciate the views of layers of ancient rock from the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods on a visit to the picturesque Lulworth Cove, itself a World Heritage site and one of the most beautiful spots on the coast for its unique, scallop-like formation and crystal-blue waters. The 1.3-mile walk from Lulworth Cove to Durdle Door remains one of the most popular of the 630-mile South West Coast Path that edges the coastline. With its rapid changes in elevation, it’s one of the most challenging paths in the country. While this section of the path does include some steep inclines on occasionally slippery rocks, the spectacular views are worth the windy, strenuous climb. As you descend on the path from Lulworth, you’ll have magnificent views of Durdle Door, one of the most photographed spots in Dorset. The natural limestone arch rising out of the sea formed when the force of constant waves over thousands of years eroded a section of the rock. The beach in front of the arch attracts swimmers and snorkelers.

If the family is along, or you’d like to take home a piece of history yourself, Charmouth offers the best place to find fossils. While visitors aren’t allowed to dig into cliffs, loose fossils are plentiful, especially at low tide. To learn more about fossils and join a guided tour, visit the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre, where you can also examine any of your fossil finds under a microscope and have a staff member identify them. The Lyme Regis Museum, another option, features fantastic views of Lyme Bay. Its Mary Anning Wing, named after the first female paleontologist, sits on the site of her former home. Born in 1799, she supported her family by selling fossils to museums around Europe. While in Lyme Regis, you have to take a walk along the curved and slanted 870-foot-long harbor wall called the Cobb, famous for the scene in The French Lieutenant’s Woman in which Jeremy Irons and Meryl Streep first lock eyes. The county of Dorset is a popular filming location, especially for period pieces, as it has miles of coastline and countryside, quaint villages and stately homes. Parts of the movie The Imitation Game and several scenes from Dunkirk were filmed here. You’ll also find those soaring cliffs that were a key element in the first season of Broadchurch in West Bay. This is also Thomas Hardy country, with several of his novels and stories based here. You can visit his modest thatchedroof cottage where he lived with his family and wrote his first

The Westcliff, Manor Road, Sidmouth, Devon $$–$$$ SUMMER LODGE COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL, RESTAURANT AND SPA This Relais & Châteaux property, an English country home on four acres, features a spa, indoor pool, 19 guestrooms and five suites. The Summer Lane Cottages and Coach House are recommended for families. 9 Fore St., Evershot, Dorset $$$–$$$$

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FORTIFICATION:

DINING THE BLACK SWAN INN For a traditional English pub experience, real ales and homemade fish pie, visit this cozy restaurant with a roaring fire and beer garden. If your appetite is hearty, try the Jurassic Feast with beef ribs and baby spare ribs. 159 High St., Swanage, Dorset $$ HIX OYSTER & FISH HOUSE For the best panoramic views of the Jurassic Coast, take a seat in this intimate restaurant to enjoy fresh British seafood and in-house smoked salmon.

novels. Do not miss the iconic Corfe Castle, a 1,000-yearold castle built for King Henry I, William the Conqueror’s son. Despite efforts to destroy it over the years, the castle still stands, bearing plenty of scars and gaping holes. After a visit to the castle, stop in The Greyhound in the village below for a traditional English cream tea, which includes two scones, clotted cream and jam. Upscale accommodations along the Jurassic Coast range from properties in former country manor homes to more modern hotels with sea views. Dining options range from traditional fish and chips to Michelinstarred cuisine. Recreational opportunities are plentiful, from rock

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climbing to biking and horseback riding. The Jurassic Coast is also a mecca for water sports, with swimmers, kayakers, divers, surfers, paddle boarders and sailors enjoying the waters. To really get your adrenaline going, try coasteering, an activity invented in Great Britain that involves moving along a coastline by swimming, climbing, jumping and diving. While it may seem extreme, the activity can be suited to a range of abilities and even be suitable for young children. Whether you have several days to explore the spectacular Jurassic Coast or only time for a short visit, it’s an easy trip from London and a place where you’ll view scenery only seen on the southern coast of England.

Cobb Road, Lyme Regis $$$ THE PIG ON THE BEACH Housed in a 16th-century manor home along with a 23-room inn, the restaurant commits to a 25-mile menu, sourcing from its own gardens and local producers within that radius to produce fresh British garden food. Manor House, Manor Road, Studland, Swanage, Dorset $$$–$$$$

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bucket list | CLOSE ENCOUNTERS WITH POLAR BEARS

Walk on the Wild Side Go for rugged adventure in Canada’s remote polar bear country.

NATURAL WONDERS: (Left to right) Mama bear with her cubs during den emergence, Northern Lights, and wolf sighting PHOTOS: © CHURCHILL WILD / VIRGINIA HUANG, © CHURCHILL WILD / JAD DAVENPORT, © CHURCHILL WILD / ANDY SKILLEN

WE STAND STILL IN THE ICY, sub-Arctic Canadian wilderness. Our breath makes ghosts in the crystalline air. We are dressed in expedition-quality Arctic polar gear against the sub-zero temperatures and whirling snow. But I don’t feel the cold. My attention and my camera are focused 100 yards away on a mother polar bear and her two cubs just emerging from their den. Through my lens they look near enough to touch. Although we are quite close to the bears, we feel safe, accompanied by alert and experienced guides with binoculars, rocks (for clacking or throwing), bear spray and, as a last resort, 12-gauge shotguns slung over their shoulders (which, fortunately, they have never had to use). National Geographic photographers help us with focus and f-stops and remind us to shelter our cameras under our parkas to preserve battery life. You can see polar bears in the Churchill, Manitoba, area from June until November, but I chose the most rugged adventure. Den Emergence Quest (annually for two weeks in mid-March) is one of several polar bear-centric adventures offered by Churchill Wild, a 25-year-old, family-run company that owns and operates three off-the-grid, totally self-sufficient lodges. Mother-and-cubs

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BY IRENE RAWLINGS

sightings can’t be guaranteed, but the area near Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge (on the edge of Hudson Bay) is world-renowned for its polar bear population. Early every morning, scouts from the lodge fan out over the vast white expanse on snowmobiles to search for dens and to scan the coastline for signs of mother bears heading to the ice with their cubs. Many of the scouts are First Nations people whose ancestors hunted and fished these lands for thousands of years. Later, in front of the fire at the lodge, they will, if asked, tell tales of the ancient ones and their unique relationship with polar bears — as food and as spirit guides. Scientists who study polar bears estimate there are about 26,000 left in the wild (down 18 percent from 2011), and 60 percent live in Canada. The bears depend on sea ice to get to their main source of food — ringed, harbor and bearded seals. As the climate changes, bears are forced to wait longer in the fall for the freeze-up so they can hunt and find mates. The remote, fly-in Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge (recently included in the prestigious National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World

list) has eight en-suite guestrooms — rustic but comfortable with snuggle-under duvets — and a Great Room with panoramic views of Hudson Bay. Curious bears and other wildlife walk right up to the 10-foot-high, chain-link fence surrounding the compound. And as you fly in, it is not unusual to see a polar bear or a pack of wolves sunning themselves on the airstrip just outside the compound. All meals are included. A hearty breakfast, starting with steaming bowls of Manitoba’s iconic Red River Cereal. Hot soup and freshly baked bread for lunch — either in the lodge in front of the enormous river-rock fireplace or, if den emergence seems imminent, out in the wild. Family-style dinners can best be described as tundra-to-table — maybe a caribou Wellington, wild duck fajitas or moose pot roast, washed down with Canadian VQA wines or craft beers. Plant-based and gluten-free options are available. Northern Manitoba is a pristine wilderness, so water at the lodge is sourced (and triple-filtered) from

the surrounding, spring-fed lakes. After dinner, peek at the night sky for the real possibility of seeing the pale green, pink and violet Northern Lights dancing and shimmering high above the trees. Other bear safaris and wildlife adventures are available in the summer months, when the temperatures can get as balmy as 60 degrees Fahrenheit and the ubiquitous fireweed turns the landscape a cottoncandy pink. You’ll see polar bears relaxing in fields of wildflowers, gorging on berries in the boreal forest and lounging in the tidal sand flats at water’s edge. All of Churchill Wild’s eco-lodges focus on hiking to find polar bears and other wildlife: wolverine, Arctic fox, woodland caribou and moose. You can kayak and snorkel with belugas or climb into a custom-made “rhino” vehicle and head out to look for more than 100 species of migratory birds including eagles, great gray owls, eider ducks, snow geese and swans.

INFO TO GO

Most international airlines fly to Canada’s Winnipeg Richardson International Airport. Churchill Wilds’ Den Emergence Quest runs March 3–16, 2019. The price of 16,695 CAD (about 12,800 USD) per person includes round-trip transportation between Winnipeg and the lodge, accommodations, all meals, excursions to see bears, guiding and the use of expedition-quality Arctic clothing. Summertime Polar Bear Safaris operate July through November, starting at 12,995 CAD (about 10,022 USD) per person. The rate includes all of the above except the use of expedition-quality Arctic clothing. There is no cell service, but a satellite phone and satellite WiFi are available in the main lodge.

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kicking back | PHUKET

Dream Getaway

For a true respite, step into the easy-going pace of Phuket. IT’S NOT EVEN 9 A.M. in the sleepy fishing village of Rawai on Thailand’s famous Phuket Island, but already the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea swarm with local fishermen casting their lines and releasing their nets from the bows of rustic long-tail boats. The scents of lemongrass, incense and sweet pandan leaves season the air as the villagers slowly rise from their beachside bungalows to start their day. In just a few more hours, the fishermen will return with their catches, filling the stalls of the iconic Rawai Seafood Market with buckets of shellfish and displays of fresh filets. Visitors line up each afternoon for the catch of the day, selecting their fish with care before hauling their purchases across the well-worn road to the restaurants opposite the market to have the fish cooked for 100 Thai baht per kilo. The average day in Phuket starts and ends on the

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INFO TO GO

BY KRISTY ALPERT

beach, where villagers and visitors alike spend hours enjoying the slow pace of Thailand’s largest island and its nearly 25 miles of public shoreline. Only a short, one-hour flight from Bangkok, Phuket’s numerous national and international flight options make it an easy addition to a business trip in Thailand or even neighboring countries. If you’re looking for nightlife, Phuket has you covered, as it’s become known as Thailand’s party island. But it’s not just bars, clubs and EDM festivals in Phuket; the island offers many chances to kick back and enjoy some much-deserved rest and relaxation. Phuket consists of one main island — separated from the mainland by the Chong Pak Phra channel at the northernmost point of the island — and a series of several smaller islands that add about 27 square miles to the total size of the destination. The main island’s

Most guests arrive at Phuket Airport, the secondbusiest airport in Thailand with more than 100,000 flights arriving each year, although it is possible to drive in on one of the two bridges that connect Phuket to the mainland over the Pak Phra Strait. The best time to visit is between December and March, before the hot season starts in April and after the wet season ends in November. ATM machines are widely available, but note Thai ATMs eject cash before returning the card.

BY THE SEA:

Fishing boats (left), and Sri Panwa private pool villa (top right) and Baba’s Nest rooftop bar (bottom right) PHOTOS: © NARONG NIEMHOM DREAMSTIME.COM, © SRI PANWA

LODGING

JW MARRIOTT PHUKET RESORT & SPA This beachfront resort is ideal for families traveling with kids, with 248 rooms and 13 suites, including numerous family suites with private pools. 231 Moo 3 Mai Khao, Thalang $$$

rolling hills give the densely forested landscape an exotic flair, where hilltop restaurants and hotels offer vantages once reserved for the birds. Find some of the best views of the sea at Sri Panwa, a luxury boutique hotel perched in the hills of the Cape Panwa peninsula at the southern tip of the island. Many of the family-owned resort’s villas and estates offer panoramic views of the sea, but a handful even offer uninterrupted 300degree views of the Andaman Sea and the surrounding islands. The villas are modern and fresh, designed to feel like private homes, with surround-sound entertainment systems, wraparound plunge pools and chilled-out décor perfect for lounging in between adventures around the island. The resort’s stunning location and stylish décor made it a favorite among leading musicians, fashion icons and business legends, including Robert H. Burns, Chef Gordon Ramsay, David Rockefeller, Rita Ora, Flo Rida and the royal family of Thailand. The resort’s 10 dining options feature everything from authentic Thai flavors to sushi and even local favorites like Chinese cuisine and hotpot. The resort’s iconic Baba’s Nest is also the most requested sunset viewing point on the island, where reservations are mandatory and often book up weeks in advance. This sexy and stylish rooftop bar offers 360-degree

views. Here guests sip on high-end Champagne or craft cocktails at the plush lounge pillows and low tables nestled inside the border of a black-bottomed infinity pool that seemingly drifts into the sunset each night. Days spent on the island can include a round of golf at the Phuket Country Club or at Red Mountain, shopping for luxurious silks or pearls, or even taking a cooking class with a local chef. Sri Panwa’s chef offers a cooking class on site, but Pat’s Thai cooking classes prove a favorite for many who want to be able to recreate their favorite Southern Thai dishes like tom yum goong and laab kai once they return home. Adventurous souls can take to the hills for horseback riding excursions or mountain biking trips in the jungle, or stay closer to the city center for muay Thai boxing lessons at Tiger Muay Thai & Mixed Martial Arts. Phuket is also home to one of the last remaining virgin rainforests in the world, Khao Phra Thaeo National Park, where wildlife runs free and visitors can see langurs, barking deer, monkeys and even gibbons. A guided walking tour of Old Town Phuket uncovers the lesser-known history of Phuket’s tin industry beginnings, explaining why so much of the city’s architecture shows influences from Chinese styles. The island’s top beaches offer

SRI PANWA PHUKET HOTEL This trendy 82-villa boutique luxury hotel, the top choice for the stylish set, features one of the highest-rated rooftop bars in the world. 88 Sakdidej Road, Vichit Muang, Chang Wat $$$$$ TRISARA Trisara translates to “third garden in heaven” in Sanskrit, and the 38 villas and suites spread throughout this tropical resort offer heavenly views of the resort’s private bay. 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, Thalang $$$$

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HANDS-ON:

DINING

HOME KITCHEN RESTAURANT The menu at this trendy restaurant, created by Swedish chef Daniel Isberg, features traditional Thai dishes and eclectic creations like rum-cured Wagyu beef carpaccio. 314 Phrabaramee Road, Kalim Beach, Pa Tong, Kathu District $$$

a launching point into adventure; the most popular beaches include Rawai, Patong, Karon, Kamala, Kata Yai, Kata Noi and Mai Khao. Visitors looking to soak in the sea may need more than a week to take advantage of all the aquatic offerings on Phuket, with countless sea canoeing excursions, scuba diving adventures, fishing trips, paddle boarding tours and more occurring throughout the day. John Gray set the standard for sea kayaking and canoeing around the islands of Phuket, and his highly acclaimed company, John Gray’s Sea Canoe, provides a range of full- and half-day and overnight sea kayaking adventures. His Hong by Starlight trip is a must-do while in the area, as it offers one of the only chances to kayak inside the caves and hidden lagoons lurking within Phang Nga Bay. The trip begins with a guided kayaking tour inside the caves and lagoons John Gray himself discovered back in 1989, where guests take advantage of the low tides to navigate through the rock structures to enter into secluded blue lagoons for the chance to swim in the heart of Phuket’s craggiest rock formations. After a quick lunch on board, guests begin constructing their own floating kratong from flowers, which they will later light and launch from sea kayaks once the sun goes down during a beautiful spiritual ceremony on the sea. Once the sun sets, Phuket really begins to shine, with great dining options and tons of fabulous night markets. The Chillva Market Phuket is the trendiest of the night markets, and its bohemian vibe attracts Phuket’s more stylish set for shopping and dining at its bustling market stalls.

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Some of the best restaurants in the city do not offer Thai food, as they are run by celebrated chefs from around the world, including Chef Daniel Isberg’s Home Kitchen Restaurant in Kalim that doubles as an art space and features some of the most innovative culinary creations on the island. For more local flavors, restaurants like Kan Eang@Pier and Ka Jok See have become favorites for both locals and visitors with discriminating taste. Kan Eang@Pier’s laid-back vibe fits in well with its cool Chalong Bay location. The name “Kan Eang” literally translates to “easy-going.” Its indoor and outdoor seating provides the perfect backdrop for the restaurant’s menu of classic Chinese-Thai seafood and traditional Thai cuisine. Don’t miss the tom kna gai or the Phuket lobster when it’s in season. At Ka Jok See, made famous by its word-of-mouth recommendations, reservations have become compulsory due to its clandestine fame. The restaurant is unassuming, with thick wooden beam ceilings, low lighting and newspapers on the tables, but the Thai cuisine is second to none. Dishes are served Thai-style (for the entire table), and it’s not uncommon for guests to dance on tables, share meals and start conga lines once the early diners depart, making this one of the most unique and obscure fine-dining establishments in the city. Although the day starts on the beach, it often ends on the beach as well, as the bright night stars shine down on the glittering seawater and shadowed beaches while the gentle breeze acts as a reminder to chill out while standing on the shores of this dreamy destination.

KA JOK SEE Arrive after 9 p.m. for the full experience at this authentic Thai restaurant, where celebrity sightings are as frequent as the dishes that keep arriving on the fixed-price (unlimited) menu. 26 Takua Pa Road, Talat Yai, Amphoe Muang, Phuket, Chang Wat $$$$ KAN EANG@PIER One of the oldest restaurants in Phuket, this seaside venue offers stunning views and the freshest seafood in town. 44/1 Viset Road Moo 5, Rawai, A. Muang, Phuket $$

lgbtq+

High-Profile Happenings Plan for the top LGBTQ+ events of 2019. BY MARK CHESNUT LGBTQ+ EVENTS ARE A DRIVING FORCE for some travelers, providing an array of value-added experiences and activities to any vacation. And whether it’s pride, culture or sports, the LGBTQ+ event segment is in growth mode, as destinations up the ante with fresh offerings. In 2018, for example, the Provincetown Business Guild produced the Massachusetts town’s first official pride celebration, and this year’s June celebration is likely to include similar activities — including a ferry ride, art exhibits and dance parties. The highest-profile LGBTQ+ event this year in North America — and perhaps the globe — will likely be World Pride 2019, a global celebration coinciding with the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall protests which hailed the start of the modern LGBTQ+ rights movement in 1969. Some 3 million people are expected to attend and participate according to NYC & Company, the city’s tourism organization. Cultural and educational programming, designed to commemorate the Stonewall anniversary, will take place throughout the year, with the greatest concentration of activities in June. LGBTQ+ sports fans, meanwhile, might want to put Europe on their itineraries for events including Eurogames, which takes place in July. This multisport event, hosted this year in Rome and operated by the European Gay & Lesbian Sport Federation, features lively competitions in categories ranging from basketball and volleyball to swimming and golf. Also in the athletic vein, European Gay Ski Week takes place March 23–30 at Les Arcs, a skiing hot spot in the ski region called Paradiski. Events include lunches, group skiing, cabaret, club events and pool parties. When it comes to parties, few annual events match the fabulousness of Life Ball Vienna, the May event that aims to raise awareness about HIV/AIDS. Big-name entertainment and a spectacular setting at the Vienna City Hall are among the draws, but the real appeal is Life Ball’s role as one of the continent’s top AIDS charity events. Travelers can also connect with creativity around the globe, thanks to a variety of LGBTQ+ film festivals. In Los Angeles, a top choice is Outfest, which takes place in July, with screenings of short and feature films accompanied by panel discussions and parties, where there is surely no shortage of entertainment-oriented conversation topics.

CELEBRATION:

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aiport update

Golden Gateway San Francisco International Airport soars with amenities, services and new technology. BY ERICH MARTIN SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT is one of the oldest and longest-serving airports in the United States. Today recognized as a true leader of the industry and gateway to the United States, the airport began as a single dirt strip in a cow pasture. Over the years as the airport grew, it became a department of the city and county of San Francisco. The airport also became more versatile and diverse in the amenities and services it offers. From airport standards like lounges and food courts to art installations and guided tours, San Francisco International proves a destination all on its own. In 2017 SFO accommodated 55,814,906 passengers, taking nearly 70 percent of the Bay Area’s airport market share. Domestic travel accounted for more than three-quarters of the total traffic through the airport. It serves 62 airlines, of which United Airlines is the biggest. The most popular destination served from San Francisco is Los Angeles. If you arrive with a lot of time to spare before your flight boards, you chose a good airport for your early arrival. SFO is packed with ways to spend your time. Between self-guided tours, places for children to play and relaxation options, you will not be bored before your flight. The airport’s Aviation Museum and Library provides one of the best ways to get a feel for San Francisco’s appearance in the past and learn about aviation days of old. Exhibitions, research services and educational facilities are housed in a faithful recreation of SFO’s 1930s-era lobby. If you would rather look inward, the Berman Reflection Room offers a quiet space intended for meditation and self-reflection. Prefer to kill some time with a book? The Christian Science Reading Room will help you pass the time in another world. If you are looking for some active relaxation, two yoga rooms and four XpresSpa facilities located throughout the airport give weary travelers a chance to blow off some steam and unwind before the next leg of travel. Traveling through San Francisco with young ones proves easy as well. The airport offers several play spots for kids throughout the facilities to let children play in a variety of ways. Some areas focus on helping kids learn about art and natural sciences while expending some energy before flying. San Francisco’s position as a global leader in services and amenities is no surprise, but the airport has not rested on its laurels so as to stay involved and on the cutting edge. In September SFO hosted a free citizens workshop for employees of the airport and their family members. The workshop allowed attendees to be screened for citizenship eligibility, provided legal consultations for prospective

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citizens and other forms of assistance for those looking to become citizens. In terms of new operations coming to the airport, in midNovember San Francisco International announced the unveiling of a new automated security-screening process. A collaboration between the airport, the TSA and United Airlines, it should improve overall security at the airport as well as efficiency for security screenings. The new technology includes larger bins, allowing passengers to scan larger items; bigger countertops, allowing multiple bins to be scanned at once; automated conveyer belts; and improved tracking through the line. The new lines will go a long way toward improving airport efficiency in the future.

IN TRANSIT: San

Francisco International Airport’s International Terminal Road (top) and XpressSpa and shopping (bottom) PHOTOS: © SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT flysfo.com

health

On the Go Don’t let irritable bowel syndrome keep you from traveling. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN IRRITABLE BOWEL SYNDROME, or IBS, is a disorder that affects the large intestine. It causes abdominal pain and cramping along with diarrhea, constipation or a combination of both. IBS is not the same as inflammatory bowel disease. It is not clear why IBS develops. It can occur after a bacterial or parasitic infection of the intestines such as giardiasis. This is called post-infectious IBS. Other triggers may include stress. Hormone and nerve signals that travel between the intestines and the brain affect bowel function. The nerves can become more active during stress, causing the intestines to be more sensitive and contract more. About 10–15 percent of people in the United States have IBS symptoms. It can occur at any age but often begins in the teen years or early adulthood and is twice as common in women as in men. It is less likely to begin after age 50. You are likely to have IBS if you have a family history of the syndrome or have a behavioral health issue such as anxiety, depression or a history of abuse. It is the most common intestinal problem referring people to a gastroenterologist. IBS symptoms vary from person to person, ranging from mild to severe; most people have mild symptoms. You have IBS when symptoms are present for at least three days a month for a period of three months or more. Main symptoms include abdominal pain, gas, fullness, bloating and change in bowel habits. Pain and other symptoms are often reduced or go away after a bowel movement. Symptoms may

flare up when there is a change in the frequency of your bowel movements. If you have IBS with diarrhea, you will have frequent, loose, watery stools. You may have an urgent need to have a bowel movement which may be hard to control. If you have IBS with constipation, you will have a hard time passing stool as well as fewer bowel movements. You may need to strain and have cramps. Often, only a small amount or no stool at all will pass. Symptoms may get worse for a few weeks or a month and then decrease for a while. In other cases, symptoms are present most of the time. You may also lose your appetite if you have IBS. However, blood in stools and unintentional weight loss are not a part of IBS. There is no test to diagnose IBS. Usually your health care provider can diagnose IBS based on your symptoms. Eating a lactose-free diet for two weeks may help identify lactase deficiency (lactose intolerance). Blood tests can determine if you have celiac disease or anemia, and a stool culture can check for infection. Your provider may recommend a colonoscopy. During this test, a flexible tube is inserted through the anus to examine the colon. You may need this test if symptoms began later in life (over age 50), if you have weight loss or bloody stools, or if you have abnormal blood tests such as a low blood count. Other disorders that can cause similar symptoms include celiac disease, Crohn’s disease, ulcerative colitis and colon cancer. However, cancer rarely causes typical IBS symptoms unless weight loss,

blood in the stools or abnormal blood tests are also present. The goal of treatment is to relieve symptoms. In some cases, lifestyle changes help. Regular exercise and improved sleep habits may reduce anxiety and help relieve bowel symptoms. Dietary changes can also help. However, no specific diet can be recommended for IBS because the condition differs from one person to another. Avoid foods and drinks that stimulate the intestines, such as caffeine. Eat smaller meals. Increase fiber in the diet. This may improve constipation or diarrhea but make bloating worse. Talk with your provider before taking over-the-counter medicines. No one medicine works for everyone. These medications may include anticholinergic medicines (dicyclomine, propantheline, belladonna and hyoscyamine), taken a half-hour before eating to control intestinal muscle spasms; Bisacodyl laxative to treat constipation; and Loperamide to treat diarrhea. Some patients take low doses of tricyclic antidepressants to help relieve intestinal pain, Lubiprostone for constipation or the antibiotic Rifaximin. Psychological therapy or medicines for anxiety or depression may help with IBS. Finding ways to deal with stress, such as individual or group counseling, biofeedback, progressive relaxation exercises and mindfulness training, can help to prevent or ease symptoms. Complementary health practices such as hypnosis, probiotics, peppermint oil, herbal remedies and acupuncture may have benefits.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

JANUARY 2019

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past & present

Created in 1988, Crystal Cruises debuted its first ship, Crystal Harmony, in 1990. The ship was heralded for its spacious public areas, lavish casinos and splendid dining rooms. Although the cruise line retired Crystal Harmony in 2005, one of its early ships, Crystal Serenity, launched in 2003, still sails the seas. It looks much different today than it once did. The photos above show the Prego restaurant before and after (top), the penthouse suite old and new (middle), and the penthouse living room then and now (bottom).

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JANUARY 2019

PHOTOS: ÂŠ CRYSTAL CRUISES

Crystal Cruises

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alongside The Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping and entertainment destination is Address Downtown, an iconic flagship hotel. Here, lavish rooms and suites combine with shimmering views of Burj Khalifa, exquisite dining venues, stellar spa therapies and more, in the glamorous heart of Dubai. Come, experience ‘Where life happens’ at the ultimate Address.

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