June 2017 Global Traveler

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June 2017

THE WELLNESS ISSUE

BEIJING p. 62 CHICAGO p. 58 COOK ISLANDS p. 72 COPENHAGEN p. 65 INDIA p. 70 PRAGUE p. 64 TORONTO p. 52 TUSCANY p. 66

letter from the editor ®

BALANCE AND BLISS DID YOU KNOW THAT according to the American Psychological Association, 75 percent of adults report experiencing moderate to high levels of stress on a monthly basis? This was just one of many takeaways I received when I attended Organic Spa Magazine’s Wellness Day in April. I sat in on three wellness travel panel discussions featuring executives from some of the industry’s leading wellness brands — Miraval, Canyon Ranch, BodyHoliday and others.

Among the other big trends now is wellness with a sense of nature and community.

With all this in mind, I present to you our first-ever Wellness Issue. Nearly every article on the following pages offers information on how travelers can experience a respite and some well-being in various parts of the world. I had my own taste of wellness NATURE AND NURTURE: Kimberly Krol at Le Domaine on a recent trip to Spain, where I spent three PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL days at Le Domaine, an abbey converted into a 5-star hotel and winery. While there, I experienced some of the best service — and spa treatments — ever. It’s often difficult for me to power down, turn off my brain and generally relax, but if there’s one place I can, it’s the spa. I often joke that writing our monthly Spas column is my favorite type of research.

Take a closer look at how to incorporate wellness and health into your business or leisure travels with our features on airport (page 40) and hotel (page 44) wellness. On my recent trip to Atlanta, I found myself in a Wellness guestroom at The Ritz-Carlton Atlanta, where, among other amenities, I greatly appreciated the in-room Peloton bike, meaning I did not have to miss my weekly spin class while traveling. Yoga retreats and classes are popping up everywhere, and you can find a class in any place you visit. Digital director Katie Skrzek and I have done yoga everywhere from the Philadelphia Horticultural Center to a seaside retreat in California. Kristy Alpert reports from India, where she immersed herself in a yoga retreat. Turn to page 70 for more.

So take this issue, kick back and relax with us as we travel around the world to Hong Kong, Toronto, Chicago, Beijing, Prague, Copenhagen, Tuscany and the Cook Islands.

Next month we tackle even more worldwide cities with the annual release of our Global City Guidebook. Until then, Namaste.

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com

ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT PATRICK T. COOPER EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER AKHIL KALEPU ALLIE MOORE TERRY A. SPRUNGER

KRISTY ALPERT SUSAN B. BARNES RON BERNTHAL BETH BLAIR BECCA HENSLEY ILONA KAUREMSZKY SHARON KING HOGE GREG MCCLUNEY ALLIE MOORE RICHARD NEWTON BARBARA ROGERS

ete bios, For compl a.com travelerus al ob visit gl

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

s in Beer bath e Prague ar ease thought to d fatigue an sulting stress, re e mental in complet ical and phys . relaxation e Read mor gue about Pra 2. on page 6

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN CONTACT US

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letter from the publisher

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WORK AND UNWIND I HOPE YOU ENJOYED Global Traveler’s Green Issue in April. I neglected to mention that not only was the paper we used environmentally friendly with less weight, offsetting transportation and fuel usage, but it also met standards promoting and supporting the use of certified forests, supply chain management, reforestation and more. And with MILES OF SMILES: Francis X. Gallagher at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei that, we’re off on our Wellness Issue.

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER As we move squarely into summer, the team at GT covers the world’s must-travel destinations, some locally and some overseas. I will attend the annual Global Traveler Leisure Lifestyle Awards celebration at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, and The Trazees Awards for our sister publication trazeetravel.com will take place in July at the historic Lenox Hotel in Boston during the annual Global Business Travel Association conference. The Lenox is a member of the Stash Hotel Rewards loyalty program; a great friend at Stash, Danielle Pitonyak, facilitated the booking of the Lenox. The event will offer an opportunity for various brands with similar goals (serving top customers like you) to get together and celebrate The Trazees winners.

Before GBTA, I’ll make a trip to Africa, flying South African Airways business class from Dulles and staying at properties represented by KAI, run by lifelong friends Henry Kartagener and his son, David. I will stay at the Royal Zambezi Lodge, Zambia, for five nights, then move on to Elephant Hills Resort for a peek at Victoria Falls, ending in Kruger National Park in the Sabi Sands region at the Lion Sands River Lodge. It has been about six years since my last visit to the region, and I look forward to reporting my experiences.

Before the next issue of Global Traveler arrives, I will be on my summer vacation to Kitty Hawk, N.C., where I plan to relax, play golf and take in the sun. A beach restoration project is planned in the area at that time, and everyone is pleased more beach will be added along the eroding shoreline to prevent further storm damage to beaches and cottages. Some think this will be a distraction for beachcombers, but the equipment moves fast and will be off any segment of beach in one day. How often do you get to see a massive set of machines running a beach ballet to make life better? I am sure it will be a big show!

Until next month, remember to unwind and enjoy yourself — and make the most of wherever you visit on business.

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contents

June 2017

40

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

40 On the Run Passengers pair flying with fitness at airports worldwide.

52 Destination One: Toronto New projects soar in tech-friendly Toronto.

48 At Your Own Pace Add breathing room to hectic event schedules in Hong Kong.

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58 Stateside: Chicago Commerce, culture and community thrive in downtown Chicago.

THE WELLNESS ISSUE

62 9–5: Beijing Moments of Zen help balance work and well-being in Beijing.

BEIJING p. 62 CHICAGO p. 58 COOK ISLANDS p. 72 COPENHAGEN p. 65 INDIA p. 70 PRAGUE p. 64 TORONTO p. 52 TUSCANY p. 66

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64 After 5: Prague Revitalize from head to toe in beer-loving Prague.

JUNE 2017

June 2017

COVER PHOTO: TOUR GROUP AT RISHIKUL YOGSHALA YOGA RETREAT IN INDIA PHOTO: © RISHIKUL YOGSHALA

DREAMSTIME.COM

FEATURES

44 Staying Well Wellness travel finds its stride at hotels and resorts.

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PHOTOS: © WESTIN, © WALKWAY LLC, © DOUBLESPACE PHOTOGRAPHY, © ROSTISLAV GLINSKY |

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June 2017

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LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

25 28 30 32 34 36 38 76 80

10 13 16 22

65 Neighborhoods: Copenhagen Set out for an energizing walk through Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter.

Technology Wine & Spirits Spoils Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health

Mail Call News Reviews One on One China Airlines 24 One on One Hilton 78 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

66 Friends & Family: Tuscany Town to town, discover the art of living well in Tuscany.

70 Bucket List: India Seek inner peace and holistic wellness on a yoga retreat.

72 Kicking Back: Cook Islands Ease body, mind and soul in the natural goodness of the Cook Islands.

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Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2017 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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mail call APRIL Q&A: RICHARD T. EVANS, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT

Q&A WITH ANGELIQUE PLATAS, OFFICE MANAGER

In the April issue, our senior vice president, Richard Evans, reminisced on some of his favorite travel memories. From horseback adventures in Kenya to a barge trip on the Canal du Midi, several of Richard’s travel highlights involved unique activities and a great group of friends. He asked: How many of our readers have spent most of their time touring on horseback or through a country on a canal?

Last year, my wife and I did an excursion around Denmark on these great hop-on, hop-off water buses through the city’s canals.

It was an awesome way to see the sights and gave us a muchneeded break from the walking tours! We’ve never done a horseback trip, but it sounds great.

TOM MILDRED, New York, N.Y. Group travel, in my opinion, is the way to go as long as you all get along. A few of my friends and I took a trip to San Juan recently and rented a great house in the heart of Old San Juan. We spent a day on Condado Beach, explored Old San Juan, partook in the city’s cigar tradition at Don Collins Cigars and visited the Bacardi factory. It was the first time I’d visited Puerto Rico, so it was great to have some friends with me. The more the merrier!

ANTHONY PHILIP, via email

I have been intrigued by the idea of a health and wellness retreat for a long time.

A getaway among incredible natural beauty, outdoor activities, wellness practices and fresh cuisine seems ideal, but there are so many locations to choose from.

What resorts and destinations are worth trying this summer for first-time wellness vacationers?

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL GOALS In the April 25 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about the rise in numbers of travelers intending to go green in their travels in 2017, which the United Nations dubbed the International Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development. We asked: Are there certain eco-friendly practices you look for in an accommodation? How do you partake in sustainable travel practices?

I try to make the same conservation efforts while I travel that I do when I’m at home. I don’t wash my towels and sheets every single day when I’m at home, so I don’t request it daily in a hotel. I think people often forget about things like water conservation, recycling and electricity usage when they’re in a hotel, but these are easy ways to be a little more eco-conscious.

STEPHEN DARREL, via email

I don’t necessarily always go out of my way to seek out sustainable hotels or airlines, especially if I’m traveling for business, but I always love to see hotels that can make guests comfortable while also being aware of the resources they’re using. Little things like on-site gardens, local food sourcing and electricitysaving features are always nice things to see when I’m traveling.

sula New York and agree with its ranking, and would perhaps even rate it higher. I enjoyed a great stay there. If I had to choose a city for my favorite hotels, I have to go with New York for its variety of hotels alone. I’m off to Chicago in a couple of weeks and am considering a stay at The Langham. I’ve heard great things about its Travelle Kitchen and Bar. TODD BARNES, via email

KEVIN HARTMANN, via email

BEST HOTELS IN THE UNITED STATES In the April 18 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about the results of Hotels.com’s annual Loved by Guests awards, in which 969 U.S. hotels were recognized. We asked readers: Do you have an all-time favorite hotel? Which city, in your opinion, boasts the finest hotels?

I’ll be adding these hotels to my list! I have stayed at The Penin-

RISING TRAFFIC AT AIRPORTS In the April 4 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about the rapidly rising numbers of travelers through North American airports, the challenges that causes and how airports are responding to the steady growth.

We asked: Tell us about your overall airport experience in 2016. What are the most important factors in a positive airport experience?

In all my years of travel, I’ve

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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probably experienced the most delays, cancelations and airport issues in 2016. I’ve had different experiences at different airports, with varying quality of customer service, but overall I’ve definitely felt the congestion that many of these airports are experiencing. It is encouraging to see so many airports trying to make things easier with different security processes, and Global Entry and TSA PreCheck couldn’t have come at a better time.

CARY BEVERLY, via email

easy, but there are so many little ways to help, from not requesting new sheets and linens daily in my hotels to choosing airlines known for sustainable practices whenever possible. It’s an important issue for me, and it was great to see my favorite magazine shares that interest.

AMANDA EVELIN, Chicago, Ill.

ALISHA KLINE, via email

State of Bliss

DAY’S END:

Fishing boats on a Goa beach at sunset PHOTO: © MARINA PISSAROVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

The new GT a

ravel Sustainable T

SZKY

BY ILONA KAUREM ious resources. communithe world’s prec ments and local l of ies to protect on clean environ only a handfu anies set polic companies relying group sizes to nces while packages limit Eco-wise comp insiders that we alized guest experie ties for their trip some tourism

offering person NSUS among thus, reduce guests. The results: suppliers to create jobs and, THERE IS A CONSE .” local for Rea “new tourism partnering with are experiencing think tank Center areas. dly the well-being nts in remote the Washington higher level of frien contributes to According to carbon footpri tourists have a ing are er Ecotravel that actively or CREST, new crucial in protect end result: They cent “We talk about sponsible Travel, people who are kes l awareness. The their say ment and the explains Ted el ta ed environmental and cultura able to influence and have of the environ from tourism,” trav Natural more and benefiting e Unit and ability, ment ding th sustain the environ ing and more deman e as d in large ny known for res president, market consume. stag pushed forwar Martens, vice — a travel compa decla been on products they do has Colora ns in son, in tourism tures Hogen Natio encounters.

“Animal welfare Habitat Adven adds Samantha and polar bear ising is “transe d by travelers,” compr grizzly tagline re th deman stool, to ation’s signatu gged its part due organiz 2017 ar ss is like a three-le years ago, r, CREST. The Eco-friendline l Ye ic pillars. “Ten managing directo world travels.” iona , social and econom sustainability may have been the ations indicate rnat environmental and forming the way e and other organiz Inte is if you nabl on conservation d by CREST economic the differentiator stai Studies release having a focus g has a bigger tiator. These days of Su rather than huntin . At the same more of a differen wildlife viewing It’s smarter tourism for communities. scious travel ism impact on local y. Today’s eco-con Tour ent. outweighs quantit pm quality time, elo Dev sa.com

globaltraveleru

APRIL 2017

BY SEA:

more than 160 years ago — steps up to the tourism again. Touted as frontier plate an industry-leadin emissions in the g initiative, the new animal welfare travel giant’s ocean, known as policy released blue carbon, by meadows. To date, in December 2016 crack down on planting seagras illegal wildlife poachin the aims to s square feet of seagras company reports the planting international wildlife g and has been of 335,222 applauded by s, offsetting 223,481 charities like the Born Free Founda Royal Caribbean tons of carbon .

International commit tion. practices and works THE OCEAN ted to better clean COVERS 71 percent with partners like water emphasize ocean the World Wildlife of the Earth’s surface. believed by 2050 conservation efforts. more plastic than Fund to It’s fish will inhabit cy software, seven An industry-first, Wildlife Fund reports the sea. The World years in the making fuel-efficienin the last 30 years routes. The global , optimizes ship tions declined by some ocean wildlife speeds and cruise company nearly 50 percent populaappeared on Ethisph . The threats facing World’s Most Ethical greater than ever. ere’s the ocean are Companies list, 130 companies a distinction granted 2016 The Cousteau in 21 countries.

Society has a to only Royal Caribbean simple motto: “Custo introduced a Save ‘Through our dians of the the Waves initiativ Sea since 1943.”

Carbon Free e in 1992 to focus Founded by the Cruising on emissions and waste world’s most famous campaign we reduction. Over will ocean explorer, completely neutr the past decade, the late Jacques the cruise compan alize Cousteau — whose harmful carbo y built its most efficien n emissions creat work saving marine t cruise ships and life aboard the ed as a reduced its greenho result of our Calypso was chronic use guests’ cruise led in his legby nearly 25 percent gas emissions travel.’ endary TV series . In — AdventureSmi The Undersea World reported 100 percent 2015, 17 ships th Explorations of Jacques Cousteau founder Todd re-purposed waste — the awardSmith on certain itinerar winning organiz ies. ation of ocean A finalist in the conservationist NGOs on marine 2016 World Travel s works with local conservation projects & Tourism Counci Tomorrow Awards high honors such . l’s Tourism for in the Environment as the International A recipient of numerous operates the first category, Alcatra United Nations Environmental hybrid ferry in in 1977, Couste Prize from the z Cruises North America au also received trendsetter in hybrid Medal of Freedom and is regarded the U.S. Preside vehicles. Its parent in 1985. In 1988 as a ntial Hornbl he was inscribe Nations Environ compan ower Cruises, is y, California-bas d in the United ment Programme’s a leading charter ed cruise operator Global 500 Roll Environmental yacht and public which created the of Honor for Achievement and dining revolutionary hybrid received the Nationa reducing fuel consum Society’s Centen design, nial Award. l Geographic ption by 75 percent turbines and grid by Since its foundin using solar panels, electricity. g 14 years ago, wind The Ocean Founda headed projects Since its debut in 2005, Advent worldwide. In the tion spearureSmith Explora first 13 years the revolution in creating more than $34 tions led the foundation gave million a completely carbon global leader in as the Alaska Oceans to organizations in support of -free cruise experience. small adventure projects such Program and the A cruises, the compan tered in Tahoe The Ocean Founda Shipping Safety y, headquarCity, Calif., introdu Partnership. tion’s president, ced the world’s cruising program sustainability pioneer J. Spalding, designe first carbon-free . Founder Todd d the first-ever Mark Smith notes, “Throu blue carbon offset Carbon Free Cruisin SeaGrass Grow, gh our program, enabling people g campaign we to naturally offset will completely harmful carbon neutralize greenhouse gas emissions created as a result of our travel.” guests’ cruise

Alcatraz Cruises’ hybrid ferry (left), and AdventureSmith Explorations (right)

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SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL

I love that you chose to make the month of April an Earth Day edition! As a frequent traveler, I’m finding myself thinking more and more about how I can lessen my environmental impact when I travel. I especially loved Debra Bokur’s article discussing the different ways in which the travel industry is making strides in sustainable practices. It’s encouraging to see so many efforts put in place.

I took an AdventureSmith Exploration Northern Passages Alaskan cruise last year, and it was really interesting to learn about the cruise line’s carbon-free practices that Ilona Kauremszky talks about in her article in the Green Issue. I feel like in the wake of these widespread and serious environmental challenges, some of these great initiatives go unnoticed, but these travel companies are truly doing some amazing things. I also stayed at an Element hotel recently, and I was pleasantly surprised to see offerings like bike sharing and the property’s LEED certification.

From a personal standpoint, it’s not always

MEGAN HANNA, via email

JUNE 2017

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes pod of dolphins lapping up the last few hours on to be a clearly focused, intensely I WAS MILES OFF THE coast of India in a of sunshine before the setting sun started to small wooden fishing boat on the Arabian flavored, bright and satisfying cool the water’s surface for the night.

Sea when I first got the feeling we were being wine.

Those happy dolphins annually swim followed.

There is a suggestion of long distances to make it to the peaceful Manned by a shirtless captain and a crew sweet mint and an evocation shores of Goa, but they’re of two local fishermen of orange and peach in Finca not the only ones to discover Goa is the beach from Goa, our boat La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, the magic of this remarkable was stocked only with destination of choice destination. followed by a relatively full body Each year nearly tiny hooks wound and excellent balance. Altogether a for many affluent 53,000 visitors make the trip around wooden planks Unwind with a little by thinly weighted line to Goa to soak in the sun, pleasing, inviting wine. travelers looking to sand and sumptuous lifestyle Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) (the traditional “fishing coastal calm in Goa. unwind and let loose this pint-sized Indian state is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a rod” in Goa) and two provides.

BY KRISTY ALPERT typical Torrontés floral flavor with pearcoolers — one filled while in India.

Goa is the beach destinawith fresh catches of and peach overtones and a gentle reminder tion of choice for many affluthe day and the other of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly ent travelers looking to unwind and let loose empty, having been slowly depleted of iceharmonious wine. while in India. The state sits about midway cold Kingfisher beers as the day went on.

The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) Apparently I wasn’t the only one who down India’s southwestern coastline between combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes Maharashtra to the north and Karnataka sensed the followers, and as the captain and a fresh lemony acidity with a traceslowed of the boat’s low-powered engine to a to the east and south; and although it is the smallest state in the country, it is one of the honey and floral tones. halt, our small crew froze and grew silent as richest states in India. theripe boat was soon surrounded by a playful Following its aroma of fresh flowers and fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

74 globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

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FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

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The construction is turning into a real problem at so many airports. I’m sure all of these projects will be worth it in the long run, but for the time being, I dread flying out of or into an airport with construction going on.

Even without construction and expansion projects, I’ve noticed longer security lines in recent months than I ever remember seeing.

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

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news

The Curtain Hotel Opening in London

PHOTOS: © ANDYH12 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © THE CURTAIN HOTEL, © CUNAPLUS | DREAMSTIME.COM

PROPOSED LEGISLATION TO PRESCRIBE MORE LEGROOM A new bill presented in Congress would expand the current size of airplane seats and increase the space between rows of seats. If passed, the Federal Aviation Administration would be required to establish minimum measurements for both seat width and distance from one row to the next.

Currently, airlines can pack as many seats as they want onto their aircraft, as long as passengers can safely evacuate in fewer than 90 seconds in case of emergency.

The Seat Egress in Air Travel Act, however, would obligate airlines to reconfigure existing seats that do not meet the specified federal dimension requirements.

Passenger space in airline seats slowly decreased over the past 40 years, infringing upon passenger comfort and teetering on the edge of safety regulations. After the failure of a similar bill presented in 2016, authorities hope to see a more favorable outcome the second time around. faa.gov

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This summer a touch of New York City’s industrial ambience will debut in East London, with celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson in tow.

Located on a street with the same name in the neighborhood of Shoreditch, The Curtain Hotel will feature 120 guestrooms, a rooftop pool, a spa, a soundproof live performance space and a 24-hour gym, all exuding an urban aesthetic woven with components of modernity and luxury. Exposed brick walls are decorated with original artistic elements courtesy of British photographer Mick Rock, and the retractable glass roof provides captivating views of London’s skyline.

Chef Samuelsson’s Red Rooster restaurant also will be part of the property, allowing guests to dine on traditional American dishes sprinkled with classic features of Southern cuisine. A taqueria and bar will welcome guests throughout the day.

Private events can be held in the ballroom while business meetings can be hosted in the co-working space, to debut this fall. Rates begin at $300, plus taxes. thecurtain.com

Best WiFi in the Sky

It is only a matter of time until free wireless internet is available on all craft flying at 35,000 feet. For now, however, only a handful of airlines offer this service, and Routehappy compiled a list of such airlines, ranked by their abilities to offer the most seamless, easily accessible internet in the sky.

The top three carriers to grace the list are Delta Air Lines, United Airlines and Emirates, ranking high among customer satisfaction based on surveys collected by Routehappy, a company that reveals passengers’ views regarding domestic and international airlines. Its 2017 Wi-Fi Report also shows U.S. airlines come out on top in terms of availability of WiFi, with passengers able to expect some kind of internet connectivity on up to 83 percent of domestic flights. routehappy.com

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news

American Brings Back In-Flight Meals

As of May, passengers on board select American Airlines flights may receive complimentary meals as part of their airfare.

On longer flights between the two coasts of the United States, American Airlines guests receive one free meal with the choice of either breakfast or lunch. Meal boxes, both of which will have vegetarian options, will contain yogurt and fruit for breakfast while lunch boxes include a

wrap, chips and some sort of dessert. For those who are not keen to sample the boxes, additional food will still be available.

Flights that travel from New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport to Los Angeles (LAX) and San Francisco (SFO) feature this free food option.

As add-on fees continue to ramp up for both discount and major domestic airlines, a free meal is one benefit travelers can once again enjoy. aa.com

Carriers Battle for Seattle

Beginning June 19, Delta Air Lines will offer non-stop, thrice-daily service from Seattle-Tacoma International Airport to Chicago O’Hare International Airport.

Passengers on board Delta’s Airbus A319s will have access to free entertainment via personal high-resolution television screens, as well as USB and 110-volt outlets at each seat.

This latest move is just another play in the heated Washington-based competition between Delta and Alaska Airlines. The two airlines continue their battle for Seattle, a major stopover hub for visitors from Asia.

TAP Portugal’s New Fare Structures

Travelers who book international flights with TAP Portugal are able to choose from four economy-class and two business-class fare options.

In effect since April, the fare structures are competitively priced and separated into categories based on individual passenger needs, with four options in economy: carry-on luggage only (Discount); one piece of checked luggage (Basic); the ability to choose standard seats (Classic); and two pieces of checked luggage plus the ability to pre-select standard or front-row seats (Plus).

Business-class options include the Executive fare, which includes lounge access and priority boarding, and the Top Executive fare, which tacks on a free parking pass at Lisbon (LIS) and Porto (OPO) airports in Portugal, three pieces of checked luggage and free flight changes and cancelations.

Options to upgrade a previously selected tier are available at any time before the flight departs in case the needs of the traveler change. flytap.com

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Qantas Launches Direct Australia–Europe Route

Late last year Qantas Airlines announced plans to launch the first-ever nonstop flight from Australia to Europe. As of April, tickets are available for this rumored route, which will come to fruition with its debut in March 2018.

The Australian airline’s fleet of Boeing 787-9s will travel from Perth (PER), Australia, to London Heathrow Airport, a flight of more than 17 hours. The 236-seat aircraft will feature 42 business-class seats, 28 premium-economy seats and 166 economy seats.

The west coast city of Perth will serve as a connection point to other locations in Australia. qantas.com

JUNE 2017

PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © ROMAN MIKHAILOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © BRIANCHIDLOW | DREAMSTIME.COM

delta.com

deals & rewards

Wow: Chicago to Europe for $99 United MileagePlus Promotion

Through June 25 members of United Airlines’ MileagePlus program can choose how to categorize the miles they earn when flying with the airline. MileagePlus travelers can designate their earned miles as bonus miles or as premier qualifying miles.

Travelers who book $800 worth of travel between now and June 25, for example,

will be eligible to earn 24,000 bonus award miles or up to 6,000 premier qualifying miles.

As always, the amount of miles earned will depend on the dollar amount spent. Only tickets purchased for first- and businessclass seats are eligible for this promotion. united.com

PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES, © JOHANN68 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ULITA | DREAMSTIME.COM

American Airlines’ Special to Cuba

Washington, D.C.-area denizens who have longed to visit the once-forbidden island nation of Cuba may have the perfect opportunity to jet off to the Caribbean this summer and fall. American Airlines announced a special flight deal between Baltimore-Washington International Airport and Havana’s José Martí International Airport.

For a mere $254, guests can fly round-trip between these two cities, with a brief stopover in Charlotte, N.C. (CLT). The deal begins this month and lasts through February 2018, not including the Christmas and New Year holidays. aa.com

Wow Air continues to take the international budget airline world by storm. Starting this summer, the bright-purple airline will offer $99 one-way routes from Chicago to Reykjavík (RKV), the third new route to appear so far in 2017.

Four times per week, flights will depart Chicago O’Hare International Airport and travel to the Icelandic capital, where passengers can de-plane and explore Iceland or continue to 23 other European cities for an additional fee.

This will be the airline’s first route to the middle of the United States, which serves as a popular connection point for West Coast destinations.

Following the launch of ticket sales for this route this past March, Wow Air will introduce routes from Miami (MIA) and Pittsburgh (PIT) at the end of this month. wowair.com

Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan Changes

As Alaska Airlines begins to absorb Virgin America and remove itself from its partnership with Delta Air Lines, the Seattle-based carrier issued a few updates for members of its loyalty program.

Mileage Plan members can look forward to an 80 percent increase in the number of miles earned for business- and first-class seats. Elite members can take advantage of free upgrades to first and business class when booking seats with their reward miles.

In order to begin using earned miles for travel redemptions, Mileage Plan members need 5,000 miles (plus taxes), a 30 percent lower threshold than previous requirements. Alaska’s acquisition of Virgin America means loyalty members can book seats and redeem points on Virgin America flights as well. alaskaair.com

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BRUSSELS AIRLINES | ECONOMY PRIVILEGE

New York (JFK) to Brussels (BRU)

Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ I experienced Brussels Airlines’ new Economy Privilege service shortly after its launch in 2016. While not in a dedicated cabin, the premium-economy service does offer passengers a significant amount of added amenities and comforts.

Pre-Flight: My departure time coincided with other departing flights; the early evening time slot is popular for trans-Atlantic flights from the United States bound for Europe. As a result, the gate area was busy, but I was able to snag a seat nearby, as passengers were getting up to board the Alitalia flight at the next gate.

After grabbing some pre-flight supplies at the newsstand, I only had about 30 minutes before boarding began. I took out my laptop and logged on to the airport’s complimentary WiFi to send a few last emails before departure. Before I knew it, the gate agents announced boarding was beginning; to maintain an orderly boarding process, Brussels Airlines created separate queues for the various boarding groups, and boarding completed swiftly and efficiently.

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In-Flight: I’m usually an aisle seat gal, but as I wanted to catch some shut-eye on my overnight flight, I opted for a window seat on this leg. Additionally, the added perks of Economy Privilege came in handy when it came to a restful flight: an additional 8 centimeters of legroom, double the seat recline, a fleece blanket and an amenity kit.

In fact, each facet of the in-flight experience is enhanced for an Economy Privilege passenger. Better-quality headsets highlight an already ample selection of in-flight movies and television shows. A hot towel after take-off and a glass of Laurent-Perrier Champagne before dinner give the experience a more exclusive feel, further heightened by the upgraded dining experience from the traditional economy-class meal service. I also appreciated a bottle of water before the cabin lights were dimmed. However, without a separate cabin, it was apparent to passengers where the enhanced service started and where it ended. I can imagine the disappointment of passengers a few rows back when they realized they weren’t receiving a hot towel.

As we prepared to land, I was gifted a small Neuhaus chocolate box — a sweet finish to the flight, but also a sweet beginning to my Brussels experience.

◆ Economy Privilege is available for an additional $149 per passenger per flight. The benefits far outweigh this nominal fee. ◆ Economy Privilege replaced the first 32 seats of the economy-class cabin on the Airbus A330 aircraft and is available on long-haul routes between Europe and Africa, the United States and Canada.

Brussels Airlines brusselsairlines.com

PHOTOS: © BRUSSELS AIRLINES

On the Ground: I arrived at John F. Kennedy International Airport for my evening departure to Brussels around 4 p.m.

I was flying the airline’s new Economy Privilege cabin, but the premium-economy service does not include priority check-in, security access or boarding. Luckily, check-in was a breeze, and security was as expected but no worse than usual. All in all, my experience from check-in to the gate was easy, and my trip to Brussels was off to a pleasant start.

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FRENCH QUARTER INN Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Stopping in the lobby is always a treat at French Quarter Inn. A selection of snacks and beverages — including infused waters — candy, nuts and coffee is served 24/7.

PHOTO: © FRENCH QUARTER INN

Arrival/Check-In: After a two-hour flight delay from Philadelphia, my friend and I were eager to land in Charleston, where we quickly grabbed our luggage, called an Uber and made our way to French Quarter Inn. Our Uber driver was chatty, offering great insight into what to see and do around Charleston, and driving right past the tucked-away entrance to the hotel. It was still early afternoon, and our room wasn’t quite ready, but the friendly reception staff, who treated guests more like family, offered us a glass of Champagne while we waited on the terrace, enjoying a few moments of downtime.

Guest Quarters: Each of the boutique property’s guestrooms includes evening turndown, triple-sheeted European bedding, 40-inch flat-screen TVs, a Sound Sleep pillow menu and Blu-Ray DVD players. French Quarter offers a familiar, inn-like feel with all the trappings of a modern luxury hotel.

Our king junior suite boasted an extremely comfortable kingsized bed flanked by two nightstands, a sitting area with a full-sized sofa bed, a small table and two chairs situated near the window, a desk and an entertainment center — more than enough space for us to spread out.

The oversized marble bathroom featured an equally spacious walk-in shower with luxury amenities; however, the sink/

◆ Breakfast in the lobby, on the terrace or in room is included for guests and features fresh fruit, bagels and baked goods, quiches and eggs. Bicycles are also available to borrow.

vanity area was a bit small, with most of the space taken up with toiletries.

Services/Amenities: Among the hotel’s amenities are a series of nice touches: a Champagne welcome, an evening wine and cheese reception, Port wine nightcap service, freshly baked cookies and milk each evening. If only my one-night stay had been longer and I’d had the chance to experience more.

Dubbed Signature Extras, French Quarter Inn customizes a guest’s stay by assisting with the booking of special extras like an in-room massage, chocolate-covered strawberries, in-room flowers, a private yoga class and more. You can conveniently make the arrangements right on the hotel website.

Meeting and event space is also available.

◆ Location, location, location! For the purposes of my visit, French Quarter Inn was well-situated to explore some of Charleston’s best restaurants, bars and other sites, all within walking distance.

French Quarter Inn 166 Church St. Charleston, SC 29401 tel 843 284 9582 fqicharleston.com

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GRAND HYATT SEATTLE Reviewed by Carly Allen

Guest Quarters: My room was located on an upper floor, and its floor-to-ceiling windows offered an amazing view of the bay and downtown. I enjoyed the view so much I ended up doing most of my work on my laptop on the chaise longue next to the windows instead of at the adjacent traditional desk, which had plenty of outlets.

As expected, the Grand Hyatt delivered a comfortable stay.

The king-sized bed provided a nice night’s sleep. The large, marble bathroom featured great lighting over its single-sink vanity, premium June Jacobs amenities and plenty of complimentary bottled water.

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The stand-alone, glass-enclosed shower was excellent, although my room did not include a sunken tub like most of the other rooms.

Services/Amenities: The hotel does not operate its own restaurants on property, but it leases some great options for guests including a Ruth’s Chris Steak House (which serves breakfast), a sushi spot and a much-loved Starbucks. Its sister property, Olive 8, just a half block away, gives guests extra choices. I stopped in to Urbane for dinner and enjoyed a tasty, locally farmed roast chicken with a glass of Washington state Airfield Estates Sauvignon Blanc to top it off.

Olive 8 also shares its spa, Elaia, and its state-of-the-art gym with guests of Grand Hyatt. I took full advantage of the spa and indulged in a 90-minute sports and foot massage by a friendly masseuse. The spa, on the second level of the hotel, features a large relaxation room with floor-to-ceiling windows offering natural light, where spa guests can rest in oversized chaises longues.

It made a perfect last stop before I caught my return flight.

Overall, I had a great experience using both properties, although the walk to get to basic amenities can be a bit inconvenient. I look forward to staying at the Olive 8 on my next trip.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The property is within walking distance of downtown shopping and restaurants. ◆ Olive 8’s Urbane restaurant offers tasty, locally grown and seasonal fare and an intimate bar. ◆ Grand Hyatt Seattle features a large selection of customized event space for any meeting or party.

Grand Hyatt Seattle 721 Pine St. Seattle, WA 98101 tel 206 774 1234 grand.hyatt.com

PHOTOS: © CARLY ALLEN

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived in Seattle on a cloudy Sunday morning; the rain held off, and I made it from Seattle-Tacoma International Airport to the Grand Hyatt Seattle in record time.

The Grand Hyatt is located just across the street from the Washington State Convention Center, but I must say it doesn’t feel like a convention center hotel — its rich wood, marble lobby and fun sculptures and designs create a light-hearted atmosphere. The hotel offers plenty of plush seating areas for getting some work done or meeting colleagues. I checked in within minutes.

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SHERATON GRAND DOHA RESORT & CONVENTION HOTEL Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

PHOTOS: © SHERATON GRAND DOHA RESORT & CONVENTION HOTEL

◆ The property offers 10 different food and beverage outlets serving a range of cuisines, from Lebanese and South American to Italian and fresh seafood.

I enjoyed breakfast at Al Hubara Restaurant with its extensive buffet options.

Arrival/Check-In: If I was ever more ready to sink into a hotel bed, this was the time. After a departure from Washington, D.C. (IAD) at nearly midnight and a layover in Casablanca (CMN), I arrived in Doha late at night, about 24 hours later, having lost a day in the process. I was eager to shower and sink into bed for a few hours of uninterrupted sleep. Thankfully, and despite the hotel still boasting a happening atmosphere at that later hour, check-in was quick. I was personally escorted to my guestroom.

Guest Quarters: As it was late at night and I was bedraggled from travel, I immediately noticed the bathroom, with its spacious shower and separate tub. I quickly unpacked, taking advantage of the ample counter space before enjoying a hot shower with quality water pressure.

My stay was brief, but my room was certainly comfortable enough to call home for several days, offering both a bedroom area, with a comfortable bed, and a living room-type area, with a couch, table, chair and desk. All of the hotel’s guestrooms boast private balconies.

Alas, my stay was far too short. I slept soundly in the bed and awoke the next morning ready for the rest of the trip.

◆ I was surprised by the size of my sea-view guestroom, which included a king-sized bed, a separate sitting area located a few steps down from the bedroom and an expansive deck.

Services/Amenities: I must admit, Sheraton Grand Doha Resort & Convention Hotel is about all I saw of Doha. I was transiting and my time in the city consisted of one overnight.

However, the property is an icon in Doha, so I can say I experienced Doha, as the two are linked.

You can’t beat the location of the hotel, next to Sheraton Park and Corniche Promenade, three minutes to the Qatar International Exhibition Center and just about 10 miles from Hamad International Airport.

In addition to the food and beverage outlets, the hotel offers 24-hour fitness facilities, an outdoor pool and Jacuzzi and 19 meeting rooms that can accommodate up to 2,000 guests.

Before departing, I enjoyed a cappuccino in the spacious lobby lounge.

◆ Booking a club room affords guests access to the Sheraton Club Lounge, including high-speed internet, breakfast, complimentary beverages and snacks throughout the day, happy hour, daily amenities delivered to the room and free use of the business center boardroom for one hour.

Sheraton Grand Doha Resort & Convention Hotel Al Corniche Street Doha, Qatar tel 974 4485 4444 sheratongranddoha.com

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THE ST. REGIS MEXICO CITY Reviewed by Carly Allen

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The St. Regis is centrally located minutes away from dining hot spots and museums.

Guest Quarters: My executive suite was beautiful, with lots of sitting space, and made me wish I were staying longer than one night.

Natural light flooded in through the floor-to-ceiling windows into the living room, where a full couch and six-person dining table sat. The suite did not include a desk, so I used the dining table as my work place. The room also boasted a hidden flat-screen TV, nicely stocked bar and guest bathroom.

Ornate double doors led to the bedroom, which also featured full-length windows, covering the king-sized bed and lounge chairs in sunlight. The large marble bathroom off the bedroom included

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his-and-hers sinks, a vanity and TV screens embedded in the mirrors on either side of the room. A large bathtub was welcoming; however, although the stand-alone shower offered great water pressure, its awful lighting made showering a bit clumsy.

Services/Amenities: The Remède Spa is a must-try, even if it’s for a quick post-flight massage or facial. I have visited many hotel spas, and this one now tops my list. My 90-minute massage, along with a full-body scrub, provided a perfect ending to my day of travel. The space is modern and features a great combination of natural light in the locker room and a small yet nicely appointed waiting room with natural snacks and fruit-infused water.

As most frequent travelers like to keep their fitness routine consistent, the hotel’s full-access gym makes it easy. The view from the front line of cardio machines offers a great incentive to work out, especially at sunrise. The gym boasts a Pilates room, a juice bar and a beautiful indoor pool with lanterns and lounge chairs in front of floor-to-ceiling windows.

The property has a half-dozen dining options ranging from cafés to private dining rooms. My colleagues and I made great use of the King Cole Bar, located on the third floor. This classy bar offers signature cocktails (try the tequila Bloody Mary) and a large outdoor seating space overlooking the Fountain of Diana. It’s a nice venue for more casual business meetings or gathering with friends for cocktails.

◆ The friendly and professional staff, especially the doormen, make The St. Regis a 5-star property. ◆ The outside patio at the King Cole Bar is a must-try.

The St. Regis Mexico City Paseo de la Reforma 439 Cuauhtémoc 06500 Mexico City, Mexico tel 52 55 5228 1818 starwoodhotels.com

PHOTOS: © ST. REGIS MEXICO CITY

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived in Mexico City on a beautiful early spring day — a light breeze and 75 degrees. I couldn’t ask for a better start to my day. The St. Regis offers car service from Benito Juárez International Airport, worth the extra spend for its convenience.

However, Uber is up and running in Mexico City and offers a good alternative.

The St. Regis is located in the heart of the business district and sits right on Paseo de la Reforma, one of the main streets in the city that can pretty much get you anywhere. Upon my arrival, the doormen were friendly and immediately took my bags and showed me to the third floor, which holds the main lobby, reception desk and restaurants. I enjoyed a cool refreshment during check-in and was quickly shown to my room.

2017 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

AIRLINE BEST Overall Best Airline in the World____________________________________________ Airline Alliance___________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _____________________________________________________________ Airline Website __________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific_______________________________________ Best Airline for . . .

Business Class_______________________________________________________

International First Class________________________________________________

Domestic First Class__________________________________________________

Onboard Service _____________________________________________________

Flight Attendants_____________________________________________________

Flight Attendant Uniforms _____________________________________________

Airline Cuisine________________________________________________________ Security_____________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design____________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _______________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch___________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs

Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program____________________________________

Elite-Level Program___________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________

Award Redemption___________________________________________________

Customer Service ____________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . .

Africa_______________________________________________________________

Australia and New Zealand_____________________________________________

Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________ China_______________________________________________________________

Eastern Europe_______________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ Mexico______________________________________________________________

The Middle East _____________________________________________________

North America________________________________________________________

North Asia (excluding China)___________________________________________

The South Pacific_____________________________________________________ To South America and Central America______________________________________ To Japan_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline______________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline_______________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World____________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents__________________________________________________ Airport Dining____________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping _________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . .

Asia________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________

The Middle East______________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . .

Asia_________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________

The Middle East______________________________________________________

North America________________________________________________________

South America_______________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST

International Hotel Chain_________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain___________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel__________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel ____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Club Floor________________________________________________________ Hotel Website__________________________________________________________ New Luxury Hotel in Asia _______________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs

Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World_____________________________

Elite-Level Program_________________________________________________

Bonus Promotion___________________________________________________

Award Redemption_________________________________________________

Customer Service___________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . .

Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________

South Korea________________________________________________________

The Middle East____________________________________________________

The United States __________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . .

Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________

Latin America______________________________________________________ Mexico____________________________________________________________

The Middle East____________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program ______________________________________________ Rental Car Company____________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_____________________________________________________ MICE City _____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service___________________________________________________________ Wireless Phone Service in the World______________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand__________________________________________ Luggage Brand_________________________________________________________ Photographic Brand_____________________________________________________ Ride Share_____________________________________________________________ Hotel App______________________________________________________________ Airline App_____________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card_________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card _________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events __________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program____________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card______________________________________ Rental Car Affinity Card__________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

State

ZIP Code Email

one on one

HO, NUAN-HSUAN Chairman, China Airlines long-range aircraft, which won praise as the “most high-tech, most energy-efficient, most ecofriendly, most spacious and least noisy” passenger aircraft. It is 70 percent built from advanced composite materials that deliver significant weight savings and increase safety by reducing metal fatigue. The A350 is the most fuel-efficient aircraft model in the world, and its Rolls-Royce power plant boasts 25 percent lower CO2 emissions than the previous model.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years?

Global economic growth, oil prices and political and economic trends strongly influence the aviation industry. The latest forecast by Oxford Economics suggests the global economy will grow by 2.6 percent in 2017, higher than the 2016 rate of 2.3 percent. Nevertheless, Taiwan’s major trade partners such as China and Japan showed signs of slowing or near-zero growth. Oil prices

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are expected to stay low in the short term but may increase as OPEC and non-OPEC nations agreed to cut oil production for the first time in December 2016. The International Air Transport Association reports during the vibrant development of the air travel market in recent years, overall supply grew faster than demand. IATA expects the trend to hold for Asia Pacific in 2017, with supply and demand to grow by 7.6 percent and 7 percent, respectively.

Cargo demand is expected to grow by 3.5 percent in 2017 and Available Tonne Kilometres to grow by 5 percent.

Best career advice you’ve received: The only path to greatness is through tolerance and acceptance.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? If you have tasted the bitterest of the bitter, you will

become the greatest of the great.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Business travel aboard the new China Airlines Airbus A350 and Boeing 777 aircraft One travel tip you cannot live without: Pack luggage of all sizes with basic travel items in advance so you can leave on any trip at short notice.

Best advice for business travelers: Keep your valuables on your person at all times.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Tell our readers about China Airlines’ Airbus A350, which scored a double win at TheDesignAir 2016 International Awards.

China Airlines became the first airline in Taiwan to introduce the latest A350-900 XWB next-generation medium- to

What can readers expect from China Airlines in 2017?

China Airlines will provide more product options through partnerships with other airlines. By expanding our codesharing with KLM to use Taipei (TPE) and Amsterdam (AMS) as transit hubs, we will expand our network in Europe, boosting the scope and competitiveness of our European products. At the same time, as Japan is the most popular destination for Taiwanese travelers, we will introduce full codesharing on Taiwan–Japan routes with Japan Airlines. We will develop new destinations and combine them with the NexGen products to offer the most convenient and comfortable flying services. Our goal is to open a new blue sea in a fiercely competitive market.

PHOTO: © CHINA AIRLINES

Name: Ho, Nuan-Hsuan Title: Chairman Company, city: China Airlines; Taoyuan City, Taiwan Number of employees: 12,645 First job: Teaching assistant Little-known fact about you: I have extensive experience in the transportation sector, most recently as chairman of the Taoyuan Metro Corp.

What can premium travelers look forward to from the China Airlines experience?

The all-new A350 provides a quiet and spacious cabin; mood lighting and music for a serene ambience; seven temperature control zones, advanced medical-grade air filters and a cabin pressurized to 6,000 feet for a comfortable journey; wide-area windows; and capacious storage, including oversized overhead spaces.

In business class, the diagonal seating configuration allows easy access while maintaining privacy. The ergonomic seating designed for Asian body types converts into 180-degree fully flat beds. Premium economy uses rigid-back seating to avoid interfering with seats to the rear when reclining. The increased seat pitch and 20inch width let passengers sit however they like.

In economy, the 18-inch slim seating combined with the fully flat capability and cable-free floor provides more legroom. In addition, 12 rows feature our Family Couch seating, and Sky Lounge transports travelers to a scholar’s study for a refined experience.

one on one

JOE BERGER President, Americas, Hilton

Best career advice you’ve received: Be curious about everything you do. “Look under the hood” and try to understand what makes things work.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? It’s a people business, and the most important asset is the people who work for you. I try to do a better job making my team feel like they are part of a family and a community, making sure they understand how difficult travel can be at times and that we are there to help.

Name: Joe Berger Title: President, Americas Company, city: Hilton; McLean, Va. Number of employees: 165,000 worldwide and 65,000 in the Americas Recent project: We recently opened Conrad Chicago on the Magnificent Mile and will open the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills this June, the first new-build Waldorf Astoria on the West Coast.

First job: I began my hospitality career as a bellman at the Marriott Hotel at Dulles International Airport.

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Little-known fact about you: You would never know it by my personality, but I am a highly introverted person.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years?

Mobile phones will continue to lead the way for innovation in the travel industry, making way for great opportunities for the Hilton app. You can make your reservation, pick and view your room, check in and use your smartphone as your key. We continue to add features like

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: When I took my family on a three-week safari trip to Tanzania and Kenya, we stayed in a diverse range of accommodations from 5-star hotels to tented camps so we would encounter different experiences in a good cross-section of lodging.

One travel tip you cannot live without: I rely on the Flightboard app, which helps me manage flights and lets me know when my arriving connection will be available.

Best advice for business travelers: Every business traveler needs to have our Hilton app.

Hilton Honors is like a club, and we are creating innovative ways for guests to use points, including cash for bookings and using points to purchase on amazon.com.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What is Hilton Management Services?

Hilton Management Services is Hilton’s management company. What separates us from others is our understanding of running hotels from 2,800 rooms to 100. A key advantage is our Hilton culture, recognized as one of the leading corporate cultures in the world. Among recent awards/ accolades, Hilton was included in Fortune 100’s Best Companies to Work For list last year and in 2017. The environment we create for our team members translates into the environment we provide for our guests — happy team members make for happy customers and hotel owners.

Tell our readers about openings in the coming year.

We have Conrad hotels slated for Cartagena, Colombia; San Luis Potosi, Mexico (the first Conrad in Mexico); Fort Lauderdale, Fla.; and the Hilton Rio de Janeiro Copacabana in Brazil (the 100th Hilton in Latin America). Tapestry Collection by Hilton, our 14th brand, just launched this year on the success of Curio, which falls under the upper-upscale category; Tapestry is geared toward the upscale segment. The collection includes hotels with an “essence of place,” properties where guests know they will receive an independent hotel experience while still receiving the benefits of Hilton’s affiliation.

What can travelers anticipate from the brand?

We believe in organic growth; we need to be where our customers want the brands. We offer a network of quality brands available at various price points and “stays” based on whether our customer is attending a soccer trip with family or a trip of a lifetime to one of our iconic hotels.

A loyalty program that answers needs on an immediate basis supports it all.

PHOTO: © HILTON

restaurant recommendations, reservations and Uber connections, all tied in with Hilton Honors. But no matter how far innovations go, we are still in the people business; technology only frees up time for our hoteliers to spend more effort delivering hospitality. Our goal is to be the most hospitable company in the world.

technology

BEAUTIFUL ALTERNATIVES Think outside the box with new technology options. BY AKHIL KALEPU

NINTENDO SWITCH

PHOTOS: © NINTENDO, © PORSCHE DESIGN GROUP, © SLING, © NOKIA

As mobile gaming graphics catch up with computers, Nintendo officially bridges the gap between your console and your handheld with the new Switch. The package comes with a 6.2-inch tablet and two halves of a Joy-Con controller, which can slide on either side of the screen to create a mobile gaming device that plays the same games as your console. If you prefer the big screen, simply place your tablet on the provided docking station, connected to your TV through HDMI. The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild is the console’s flagship launch title, and Super Mario Odyssey will be released later this year. $299.99. nintendo.com/switch

PORSCHE DESIGN BOOK ONE

SLING TV

NOKIA 3310

Microsoft turned heads with its foray into computer hardware, but the design leaves much to be desired. HP impressed everyone with the flashy Spectre, but for people who prefer something with a little more taste, Porsche Design offers its own Book One, designed with the same stylish lines found in its line of sports cars. The laptop looks sleek and minimalistic with a brushed aluminum case, but its engine is what’s really impressive. Under the hood, Book One packs a Core i7 processor, 16GB of RAM and a 512GB SSD, all running into a 13.3-inch QHD display. $2,495. porsche-design.us

Cord cutting becomes more attractive with services like Sling TV. For people who like the personalized content of Netflix but enjoy having some traditional programming in between, Dish Network offers the first internet-only television so consumers can subscribe to the specific channels they want while avoiding long-term contracts and cable/satellite installation. With apps for Hulu, YouTube and Xbox One, Sling is one of the cheaper options for cord cutting, though it’s the high-priced packages that offer features like simultaneous viewing, local channels and premium programming.

Starts at $20/month. sling.com

The world is enamored with touch screens, but the old-school brick phone, typified by the Nokia 3310, still boasts an unmistakable appeal. These devices, built like tanks, had a battery that could last for weeks.

The company is now releasing an update to the retro favorite featuring a color screen and camera.

Younger cellphone users won’t understand, but for those who used them in the early 2000s, the updated phone offers a nostalgic blast from the past. You get all the classic features like call logs, contacts and SMS in addition to a calendar, basic web browsing, radio and even that Snake game, re-imagined on a low-res color screen. Nokia announced Twitter and Facebook will be available as well, making low-tech phones like these a viable alternative to smartphones. About $52. nokia.com

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CONNECTING YOU TO THE WORLD VISIT OUR WEBSITE

Airlines at Chicago’s airports offer more than 240 nonstop destinations worldwide.

O’Hare International has more than 1,100 daily direct flights to 157 U.S. destinations and 120 daily direct flights to 65 international destinations. Fifty-five airlines serve the airport, providing a wide array of choices for travelers.

W W W . F LY C H I C A G O . C O M

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

Midway International continues to be one of the nation’s fastest-growing airports, with more than 270 daily direct flights to 64 U.S. cities and 12 daily direct flights to nine international destinations.

@flyohare @flymidway

/fly2ohare /fly2midway

/flychicago

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Fast Forward Expansion points to a bright future for Chicago O’Hare International Airport.

In 2016, the City of Chicago, along with representatives from United Airlines and American Airlines, announced a nearly $1.3 billion infrastructure plan for O’Hare International Airport, creating thousands of jobs over its duration, a new runway and other critical airfield projects.

Mayor Rahm Emanuel broke ground on the new runway in August 2016.

The project’s many initiatives will lead to an enhanced customer experience for the thousands of travelers passing through the airport on a daily basis. And that’s just the beginning for what’s to come at the refreshed O’Hare International Airport.

Following the landmark infrastructure plan, Mayor Emanuel and American Airlines announced five new gates would be added at ORD Terminal 3 by 2018, marking the first major expansion of

gate capacity at the airport since Terminal 5 was built in 1993. In addition to increasing capacity at the airport, the new gates will bring significant economic benefit to the city and improve on-time performance. Terminal 5 will also expand by 25 percent, allowing for another nine new gates.

Included in the plan is Mayor Emanuel’s O’Hare 21 vision, calling for the redevelopment

Terminal 5 expansion

of Terminal 2 into a new central terminal to accommodate more international flights. The upgraded facility may include a new U.S. Customs and Border Protection facility and a departure hall with additional space for passenger screening, concessions and amenities.

It is not just inside the terminals passengers can

O’Hare Intermodal Hub

expect to see changes: The Chicago Department of Aviation also announced three hotel development projects at the airport, more than doubling the current capacity. Two new hotels will be built and the existing O’Hare Hilton will be modernized, supporting more than 1,250 jobs in the city of Chicago. One of the new builds will be adjacent to Terminal 5, and the second will be created as part of a mixed-use commercial development adjacent to the O’Hare Intermodal Hub now under construction on the northeast side of the airport.

The Intermodal Hub will open in late 2018.

It’s quite clear the future is bright for Chicago O’Hare International Airport.

Learn more at flychicago.com.

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wine & spirits

EXQUISITE SPARKLERS Bruno Paillard Champagnes please the eye, the nose and the palate. BY EUNICE FRIED

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aillard Bruno P bout exports a nt of its 75 perce e n to mor productio . countries than 40

PHOTO: © STUDIO CABRELLI

COMPARED TO MANY Champagne houses that are a century and more old, Bruno Paillard is a relative newcomer. While members of the Paillard family have been growers and brokers in the Champagne region since the early 1700s, none ever made Champagne. In 1981 Bruno Paillard, at the age of 27, broke that tradition when he sold his vintage Jaguar for 50,000 francs and used the money to establish Champagne Bruno Paillard. In 2007 he set another new Paillard tradition when his daughter, Alice, then in her twenties, joined him. After working in the vineyards and cellar and studying the business side of Champagne, she is now co-director.

Today, Bruno Paillard remains one of the few familyowned Champagne houses, which means the Paillards are not beholden to investors and instead set their own standards, allowing them to concentrate on quality. They do that by giving their Champagnes more aging in the bottle.

They add less dosage than most Champagne houses, thus offering fresher, drier wines. They strive for complexity.

They limit production. And they choose their markets and importers with great care.

I recently tasted Bruno Paillard Champagnes with Alice and found, overall, sparklers of elegance and of excellent quality. Here are a few of them. All prices are approximate for a .750ml bottle.

Champagne Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée ($50) — a blend of Champagne’s three grapes: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier — is lively with a bit of citrus fruit in the aroma, other fruits in the taste and slightly toasty.

Made 100 percent of Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards, Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru ($70) presents tiny bubbles and floral and citric notes. I found it fresh with a hint of warm bread, invigorating acidity and a long finish.

Champagne N.P.U. “Nec Plus Ultra” 2003 ($200) is Paillard’s ultimate Champagne. The house decided to create what it felt would be the greatest Champagne it could possibly make and only in the best vintages, regardless of cost. The result is its N.P.U., which translates as state of the art, the ultimate or the absolute best. With its exquisite elegance, it is all of that.

2017 Class Act Guide Global Traveler’s 13th annual Class Act Guide is a handy guide to premium travel.

The Class Act Guide focuses on the first- and business-class cabins of airlines around the globe. We cover everything — from seat pitch, width and layout to in-flight amenities. Other features in this issue include: n n n n n

Business & First Class Survey Premium-Economy Survey A Visit to Airbus/Boeing HQ The World’s Longest Routes Flight Attendant Training

The Class Act Guide will feature Global Traveler’s exclusive list of the most anticipated new luxury hotels openings around the world.

Globility

SPECIAL EDITION Coming October 2017

spoils

DEVOTED TO DAD Celebrate your deserving father with nothing but the best. BY PATRICK T. COOPER AND TERRY A. SPRUNGER SUPER HEROES, that is what they are. However, dads seldom get the credit they deserve, and we all know the showering of love bestowed upon motherhood overshadows Father’s Day. We take the stale tie gesture, awful socks and overall lack of thoughtfulness in finding unique gifts for Dad and bid them adieu. How do we say we love the man who is, above all, a provider? Fearless, loving and selfless — that is Dad, and by all means these characteristics deserve the best in spoils!

DOCK & BAY Okay, enough of the floral towels designed for grandmothers. Dock & Bay delivers a stellar product based upon its philosophy that the most genuine human connections are formed through shared experiences. So get dry quickly and carry on with the celebration of life. From $20.

MICHEL SMITH BOYD FOR VERDE HOME Michel Smith Boyd authoritatively layers and intricately intertwines textures to create architectural masterpieces. Be sure to chime in on Boyd’s brilliant collaboration with Verde Home, and ground the sacred den of your father’s residence with a masculine rug that reeks of royalty. Custom-priced pieces.

AUDEMARS PIGUET A fine timepiece is always an elegant gesture. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver is no exception. Give Papa a pop of color from this brilliant and newest delivery by the legendary Swiss manufacturer. Remember, summer never comes too soon.

From $19,900. audemarspiguet.com

michelsmithboyd.com

ASPIRE EYEWEAR Keep Dad cool in Aspire eyewear. This amazing brand offers the barely there fit and feather-light feel he will enjoy. SDN-4 is a specially designed nylon material proprietary to the brand. A true home run hit for baseball season. We can just hear Dad bragging, “My kids bought me these for Father’s Day.” From $220. aspireeyewear.com

SWIMS Warmer days are here. If Dad chooses to sit on the dock of the bay while watching the tide roll away, let him, but help him do it in style. Swims is the perfectly stylish, water-friendly footwear that can escort him from the yacht to dinner. From $185. swims.com

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PHOTOS: © ALLEN COOLEY, © AUDEMARS PIGUET, © DOCK & BAY, © ASPIRE EYEWEAR, © SWIMS

dockandbayonline.com

L’ENVOL DE CARTIER Spritz him! The first oriental to join the family of Cartier fragrances, L’Envol de Cartier is a celebration of the pioneer in all of us. Airy and light, wood notes and nectar make this aromatic elixir a perfect accent to the man of the house. 3.3 oz. from $132.

SCOTCH PORTER Scotch Porter makes morning regimens a breeze with this trilogy of facial products. Aloe vera, coconut oil and charcoal are just a few of the ingredients to detoxify and calmly maintain Dad’s masculine glow while on the go. From $18. scotchporter.com

PHOTOS: © CARTIER, © SCOTCH PORTER, © DRY CREEK VINEYARD, © JETSMARTER, © KYLE ADAMS

cartier.com

JETSMARTER Give him a jet. Now we are cooking with gas! Spring for a Jetsmarter membership. Spoiled rotten, indeed — who needs the frustration of long security lines and airport crowds?

Deliver Dad to the tarmac, minimize the chaos and make the next global excursion exclusively private. Annual membership from $15,000.

DRY CREEK VINEYARD We aren’t saying forget Napa, but do drop in and pay Healdsburg, Calif., a visit. Spoil your dad with an unforgettable “wineed-ucation” on the diverse soil conditions unique to this region of California that breeds splendid wines. A brilliant blend of lush plum, black cherry and spicy notes make the Endeavour Cabinet Sauvignon by Dry Creek Vineyard the perfect gift and the newest resident red of the family estate.

From first swirl to the swallow, Dad’s mouth will sing your praise. From $70. drycreekvineyard.com

SAVANNAH CORDWAINERS Bespoke details will have Dad stepping out in style in the oxblood/black Budapester. Marcell Mrsan represents the sixth generation of his family working in leather handiwork. Precision and unparalleled craftsmanship take time, however, so be sure to carve out six months to a year for the design process. Complex application of the Goiser technique and the triplebraided stitch will have your father’s feet doing the happy dance! Custom-made, from $1,200. savannahcordwainers.com

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spas

ONE WITH NATURE FInd sanctuary in Riviera Maya’s hidden paradise. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ

TRANQUILITY FOR TWO:

Couple’s treatment room PHOTO: © ANDAZ MAYAKOBA RESORT RIVIERA MAYA

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IN DECEMBER HYATT HOTELS debuted a hidden paradise nestled in the ecologically diverse Mayakoba resort area in Riviera Maya, Mexico.

Andaz Mayakoba Resort, a premium, oceanfront property, boasts the perfect combination of contemporary design and authentic local Mayan culture.

The Andaz Resort alone provides a tranquil setting among a lush natural landscape of canals, lagoons, mangroves and tropical flora and fauna. The resort spa, though, takes peaceful relaxation to a new level.

Since its debut in April, the on-property Naum Spa at Andaz Mayakoba has quickly become a guest favorite, and I had the pleasure of experiencing it firsthand on a recent visit.

The 10,000-square-foot hideaway sits nestled among palms and gardens, featuring six open and airy treatment cabins and two hydrotherapy areas. The spa offers an extensive menu of services,

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from exfoliating facials and aromatherapy massages to hot stone treatments and wraps, many incorporating indigenous Mayan methods as well as natural, locally sourced and inspired products.

When I entered the spa, I was greeted with a traditional Mexican drink of rice and coconut water and mild spices, which I enjoyed while taking in the stunning natural wood design and floorto-ceiling windows which opened to the surrounding jungle environment. The intentions of Naum Spa include connecting guests with their natural surroundings with a sanctuary-like environment, complete with open-air rooms, an abundance of natural light and the pleasant sounds of waterfall features and local birds.

The spa’s namesake, Naum, the Mayan god of consciousness, and the treatments, coined Naum Rituals, are based on Mayan traditions reflective of the mind, body and spirit. Each Naum Ritual is a three-part experience entirely customizable based on each

guest’s wellness intentions. I opted for the 75-minute aromatherapy, Swedish Naum Ritual of Massage, but other options include the Naum Ritual of the Body and the Naum Ritual of the Face.

The experience began with a Mayan Time of Reflection, which took place in a cool, quiet room with a warmed aromatherapy neck press and fruit-infused water.

This part provides time to unwind and reflect on what you hope to achieve with your treatments. The second part of the experience is the actual treatment, beginning with a session in the steam room followed by a sensation shower, before proceeding to the massage room.

After selecting the aromatherapy scent that most appealed to me, we delved into the massage portion of the experience, which left me in a nearly comatose state of relaxation. The therapist was attentive and courteous, paying close attention to my personal preferences throughout. After the massage concluded, I was guided to a private outdoor space surrounded by palms and gardens where I enjoyed a delicious, cool, lemongrass white tea and light snacks of fruit and cookies.

After unwinding, I headed back to the hydrotherapy area to enjoy time in the sauna and hot tub, both of which look out into the vibrant green palms surrounding the spa.

Just when I thought I couldn’t be more relaxed, more at peace and more connected to my beautiful natural surroundings, I was invited to an interactive Body Bliss aromatherapy bar, where I designed my own aromatherapy scent. Based on intentions of balance, happiness and well-being, my personalized scent blended mint, rose and lavender. The spa places the customized mixture into a small vial you can take with you when you leave.

The spa also offers an array of services including hairstyling, waxing, skincare, nail care and cosmetic services, as well as lifestyle options such as yoga and meditation. While I didn’t partake in any of these services, I can only assume, based on my massage experience, they are luxurious.

As someone prone to anxiety, wellness plays an important role not only in my everyday life but my travels as well.

NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Sauna (above), and pool (left)

PHOTOS: © ANDAZ MAYAKOBA RESORT RIVIERA MAYA

While some spa time always does me good, the Naum Spa at Andaz Mayakoba Resort was by far the most transformative experience I’ve had at a resort spa. As I moved through the different areas of the complex, it was clear how much thought went into the design of both the spa and its services. The historic Mayan culture and geological landscape are prevalent in each part of the Naum experience, creating a truly memorable retreat.

Naum Spa Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya Carretera Federal CancúnPlaya del Carmen Km. 298 Playa del Carmen-Solidaridad Quintana Roo, Mexico 77710 tel 52 984 149 1234 andaz.hyatt.com

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golf

MYRTLE MASTERPIECE Challenge your skills at The Dunes Golf & Beach Club.

WATERLOO: Hole 13 is The Dunes’s signature hole.

PHOTO: © THE DUNES GOLF & BEACH CLUB

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BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Jones made minor changes to greens 1, 8, 13, 16 and 18.

MYRTLE BEACH IS A MECCA for golfers, where literally hundreds The course is private but allows traveling groups of golfers to play. of golf courses sprouted up at a near fever pitch until the crash of There are distinct private and public sections of the club, but you es2007 and 2008. Some of these overnight courses disappeared and sentially play on a private course. Check out golf struggled, but it now appears to be the houses on the beach as you approach the enjoying a mini upswing.

The Robert Trent Jones-designed entrance, some of the loveliest in Myrtle.

Untouched by changes in the course reigns as one of the grandes This was the last course played during economy, The Dunes Golf & Beach our five days and six rounds of golf and Club remains a favorite of my annual dames of Myrtle Beach, established in where I secured the famed trip trophy, The Myrtle Beach golf trip. The Robert Trent 1948 by a group of local businessmen. Golden 8-Iron, which I had not taken in Jones-designed course reigns as one of the many years. Joining the trip were Gerry grandes dames of Myrtle Beach, estabGallagher, Bobby Hancock, John Kelley, Neil Curran, Wayne Weaver, lished in 1948 by a group of local businessmen. The course continues to rank well with top golf publications such as Golf Magazine and Golf Digest. Jimmy Spratt, John Ecklund and Jeff Stroble.

The Dunes hosted many USGA national championships and six Senior PGA Tour Championships, and most recently it co-hosted the 2014 HOLE 2 | 425 YARDS, PAR 4 PGA Professional National Championship.

I teamed with Neil, John and Wayne, and we decided to play the game In 2013 The Dunes took on an extensive greens restoration, of “wolf,” in which each hole has a new captain, or wolf, who selects a converting all the greens with A-1 bentgrass to Ultradwarf Champion partner based on the tee shot.

Bermuda. This followed a renovation 10 years earlier in which Rees From the tee box you must hit over the corner for a clear shot to the

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green. Long-ball hitters can easily catch the right fairway bunker only 224 yards from the blue tee box, so aim way to the left to avoid this hazard.

From your approach shot, avoid the deep bunkers arranged right and left slightly forward of the green. Two small ponds on the left and the right will catch errant second shots. I took myself out of contention by cutting too close on the inside elbow of the dogleg left and ended in the trees, adding a stroke.

HOLE 4 | 505 YARDS, PAR 5

This hole can wreak havoc with your game; errant tee shots can hit the fairway bunkers on the left or cross into the wooded area on the right. A perfect shot over the fairway bunkers leaves you with an opportunity to reach the green in two, but avoid a Tin Cup move — water guards this green, and four bunkers can disappoint your approach.

The green slopes back to front, and balls above the hole need just a slight tap to make it in. Neil took a shot way left off the tee, almost in the other fairway, but threaded a shot through to take the hole.

HOLE 5 | 205 YARDS, PAR 3

This long par 3 requires a low iron due to prevailing winds. I decided to challenge the group: me against their best ball in our game of wolf. A huge bunker guards the left side and a smaller one sits to the right, forward of the green. The green itself is elevated, so shots need to land and stick without rolling off. On the day we played, pin placement was in the most difficult position, back and left, making putting a near disaster. I hit the green and took the hole with a birdie long-putt. Neil wanted to penalize me for leaving the flag in while putting.

HOLE 10 | 380 YARDS, PAR 4

Leave the driver in the bag and play it safe, as you could reach the second pond that lies only about 268 yards from the blues (the first pond sits right in front of the tee box). The fairway also tends to run downhill to the water. Once you land safely about 120 yards from the green, note the green is elevated and protected by four bunkers, three in the front and one in the back. The green’s domed shape also offers a little more fun when landing and putting. I was paired with Wayne, who kept his composure but was outsmarted by John Kelley’s second shot to the green for par. I stood in shock when John holed the winning putt.

HOLE 13 | 590 YARDS, PAR 5

If 13 is a sign of bad luck, superstitious golfers should avoid

this Waterloo! The Dunes’s signature hole requires a perfectly centered tee shot to the landing area of this dogleg right around Lake Singleton (full of some of the largest gators to be found), and then a near-perfect shot to cut the corner over the water.

Even safe shots need to carry the water a little; true golfers will try to cut across as much as possible for a close chip to the green.

A huge tier runs from the left to the front and to the back of the green. Putting from the opposite side of this green is nearly impossible. Neil was the wolf here and rejected me for Wayne (my tee shot landed left but in the fairway). From here all collapsed and our second shots placed in the lake, but Wayne and I dropped, hit again and made it over — a lucky seven, carded by yours truly, won the hole.

FINAL FORE: Hole 18 PHOTO: © THE DUNES GOLF & BEACH CLUB

HOLE 18 | 430 YARDS, PAR 4

The closing hole is no disappointment; the tee box tends to set the drive up left, which is exactly where John Kelley and I landed — in the trees and pine straw. Wayne and Neil hit nearly professional tee shots to the center of the fairway. I honestly had nothing to lose, so I let loose, sending pine straw and ball forward. I cleared the water in front of the green and slammed into the forward right trap so hard the ball bounced out and kicked left onto the fringe of the green. “Impossible!” was the comment from my fellow golfers. Lining up my shot to the sounds of balls splashing and sand flying from the greenside bunkers, I nailed the putt for birdie to close out the game.

The Dunes Golf & Beach Club 9000 N. Ocean Blvd.

Myrtle Beach, SC 29572 tel 843 449 5236 dunesgolfandbeachclub.com

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chefs

ABOVE AND BEYOND Chef Hiroyuki Kawamura takes Japanese dining to new heights aboard ANA. BY KIMBERLY KROL

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/ MENUS? Aged beef T-bone steak in Chicago, fresh uni in Los Angeles: Each was tasty; I would like to explore how to make the most of the original flavors of each food ingredient like that in Japanese cuisine.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? My culinary hero is Hiroshi Miyamura.

He mastered the techniques and skills in an old Japanese restaurant in Kyoto and taught me about the basics of Japanese cuisine.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? It’s also Chef Miyamura. Apart from sea-

soning, the use of plates and dishes and visual presentation . . . he had the most influence on me.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? I recommend Seijogakuen in Tokyo; there is a Japanese restaurant called Seijoukitayama, located in an old Western building.

They serve vegetables from the Saga prefecture of Kyushu, fresh and tasty.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? There will be more and more restaurants that serve washoku Japanese cuisine, in which they use local materials and keep the fresh flavors.

All Nippon Airways ana.co.jp

PHOTOS: © ALL NIPPON AIRWAYS

AIRLINE FOOD AND THE PHRASE “award-winning” are rarely used in conjunction with one another; however, that is certainly not the case with Japanese carrier All Nippon Airways. The airline’s catering division, ANA Catering Service Co., Ltd., is, in fact, a multihyphenate when it comes to awards and recognition.

As manager for general administration, Japan cuisine, for ANAC, Chef Hiroyuki Kawamura ensures the airline makes the most of the original flavors of each ingredient in the traditional washoku Japanese cuisine. The ANAC team selects seasonal ingredients to help passengers sense and experience the four seasons of Japan while in flight. Additionally, the airline was the first to serve kaiseki, a traditional multicourse Japanese cuisine, on board.

Kawamura began his career in the culinary industry, joining the Japanese Chef Association at 18 and working in various restaurants in the Chiba prefecture before joining ANAC 13 years later.

ANAC’s first facility, in Narita, opened in 1989, since then expanding to Haneda and Kawasaki, both in Tokyo, for a total of three catering facilities.

cruising

ROMANCE UNDER SAIL Indulge in an intimate holiday at sea with Windstar Cruises. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER WHILE MOST CRUISE LINES “sail” the seven seas propelled by engines, Windstar Cruises made its name with three ships that really, truly swept from port to port the old-fashioned way, albeit with upto-date, computer-controlled sails. Windstar’s first two sailing vessels, the Wind Star and the Wind Spirit, are 148-passenger boutique ships with four 204-foot masts. Windstar’s largest vessel, the 312-passenger Wind Surf, boasts seven triangular, self-furling, computer-operated sails deployed on five masts, each towering 221 feet above teak decks — making it one of the two largest sail cruisers in the world. To be sure, all three of Windstar’s sailing vessels use motors most of the time, but when the sails come out, there’s no far-ranging cruise line with quite so romantic a look and feel.

In 2014 and 2015 Windstar Cruises doubled its fleet, adding three more 212-passenger boutique vessels: the Star Pride, Star Legend and Star Breeze. While these ships lack sails, the sleek vessels deliver the signature Windstar experience of smart, ultra-casual sailing. The Windstar cruise style appeals to couples seeking that intimate, romantic holiday at sea. Dining is bistro-style, casual but upscale. There is no assigned seating or formal nights, no big shows, but there is a plethora of water sports from diving, snorkeling and sea kayaking to waterskiing and, yes, windsurfing. This is a premium cruise line, but the luxuries are understated. The casino is small, the cabins (all outside) have portholes or French balconies, and the fitness facilities are compact compared to those on larger luxury vessels.

Windstar’s small premium ships can call on off-the-beaten-track ports within popular sailing areas. While destinations are geared to adventurers, the itineraries are not those of more rugged exploration cruise lines. In the past Windstar sailed mainly in Europe and the Mediterranean (winter and spring) and in the Caribbean and Central/South America (summer and fall), along with weekly cruising in Tahiti year-round. While the emphasis remains on warm-weather sailing, Windstar now ranges far and wide. Its 15 new itineraries slated for 2017–2018 include cruises in Japan, China, Thailand, the Philippines, South Korea, Borneo and Vietnam. Windstar will also sail through Arabian waters out of Dubai, reaching ports in India and Egypt. Together with these eight new sailings in Asian and Arabian waters, Windstar will add seven new itineraries in the Caribbean, Costa Rica and Panama.

Moreover, for the first time in two decades, Windstar will deploy a ship to Alaska. From May to August in 2018, the Star Legend will conduct eight 11- to 14-day cruises on routes between Vancouver and Seward. The ship is small enough to cruise through Misty Fiords National Monument and Kenai Fjords National Park, and all cruises will transport passengers through the pristine waters of Tracy Arm Fjord.

Each sailing includes add-on land excursions that enable passengers to explore Alaska’s vast interior as well.

Whatever the destination, Windstar promises a yacht-like cruising experience with big-ship amenities. Sailings are personalized, fine dining is the rule, and even the bridge is open for passengers wishing to converse with captain and crew while underway.

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SET SAIL:

Windstar’s largest vessel, Wind Surf (top), and buffet (above) PHOTOS: © WINDSTAR CRUISES

he is t r a t ds line Win uise r c d ear cial sB offi e y m a ver he J th e t i w f , o mes tion g Ja nda n u i o r F eatu ng f i tion l i sa nda u o king rd F coo Bea d n a pes s. reci tion a r t ons dem

feature

On the Run Passengers pair flying with fitness at airports worldwide.

BY BETH BLAIR

STRETCH:

Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport’s Walkway (top), and Dallas/Fort Worth Airport’s Yoga Studio in Terminal D (bottom) PHOTOS: © WALKWAY LLC, © DALLAS FORT WORTH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

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PASSENGERS CRUISING THOUGH Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport tend to do a double-take as they pass a treadmill with a large desk in Concourse C parked alongside a bright window overlooking the airport’s light rail. A “Welcome to Walkway” sign offers a bit of privacy for treadmill users while also explaining the exercise equipment’s offerings: free walking, device charging, internet access. This obviously isn’t your normal treadmill. For one, the machine’s maximum speed is only 2 mph, but the payoff is worth it for passengers who will soon be sedentary in airplane cabin seats. The benefits of walking are endless, even helping work performance.

Researchers at the University of Minnesota discovered walking while working improves the quality and quantity of work and interactions among colleagues.

What better place than an airport to help travelers produce better work, burn a few calories and boost their

moods? It’s an ideal combination.

Passengers not needing internet access can also take advantage of the airport’s Start! Walking program, sponsored by the American Heart Association’s nationally recognized Start! Walking campaign and designed to offer Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport customers a way to stay fit while traveling. The 1.4-mile walking path offers a tour of Terminal 1-Lindbergh.

This isn’t the only airport putting a spin on fitness.

Indianapolis International Airport also teamed with the American Heart Association to create five walking paths routed both preand post-security. The walking paths range from 0.23 to 0.52 miles or 1.04 miles roundtrip between the A and B gates.

Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport presents the Sky Harbor Fitness Trail, created in partnership with FitPHX, an initiative to get local residents moving. The airport’s trail runs from Gate A30 to Gate D8 and offers a variety of sightseeing opportunities including the Phoenix skyline, FAA Control Tower, PHX Sky Train bridge, Air National Guard, local scenery such as Camelback and, naturally, plenty of plane-spotting.

Yearning for yoga? “There are certain airports that are extraaccommodating to passenger health and fitness needs, such as San Francisco International Airport (SFO),” says Collette Stohler, creative director, Roamaroo.com. Indeed, tense, frazzled or overstimulated passengers are finding some airports provide complimentary Zen-like spaces for stretching, yoga or simply relaxing.

“Head to the SFO Yoga Room during a long layover to stretch, work out or even if you just need a little shavasana. Then head to the AMEX Centurion Lounge for some healthy snacks,” says Stohler. The airport describes the rooms in terminals 2 and 3 as

“space devoted to relaxation, self-reflection and practicing yoga.”

Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport boasts not one but two Yoga Studio locations. The first studio is in Terminal B (D40/B1) and the second in Terminal E (E31) with a view of arriving and departing planes. Travelers can take advantage of complimentary mats, exercise balls and stretch bands as well as 20-minute-long beginner and advanced instructional videos.

Vermont’s Burlington International Airport takes pride in the new space offered by Vermont Evolution Yoga. Located on the second floor, the room allows travelers to stretch or relax between flights in the quiet ambience. A family bathroom complete with a shower is located across from the Observation Tower.

The traveling public can also find a quiet place at RaleighDurham International Airport. The Meditation Room makes an ideal space for reflection, meditation and prayer. Always open, it is located pre-security on the ticketing level of Terminal 2.

Passengers with long layovers who wish to break a sweat are in luck, too. Hilton Chicago O’Hare Airport is the only hotel directly connected to Chicago O’Hare International Airport via underground walkways and offers day rates for travelers to get in a workout at the hotel’s fitness center. Airport guests are invited to

JUNE 2017

FLEXIBLE FITNESS: Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (left), San Francisco International Airport’s Yoga Room (top), and fitness room at Hilton Chicago O’Hare Airport (bottom) PHOTOS: © PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, © SAN FRANSISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, © HIILTON CHICAGO O’HARE

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utilize the facilities which include an 8,000-square-foot fitness center complete with weight room and cardio machines, indoor lap pool, sauna and full-service locker room.

New on the airport scene is ROAM Fitness. Cynthia Sandall and Ty Manegold, who met at the University of Oregon while getting their MBAs, founded this brilliant brainchild. The active pair were frustrated but also inspired by the lack of healthy options available at airports. Knowing there was demand, Sandall and Manegold developed a plan to combine air travel and fitness. The end result is ROAM Fitness, which opened last year in BaltimoreWashington International Airport in the new connector between concourses D and E. Members have access to state-of-the-art equipment. Lululemon Athletica activewear is available for rent and is included in the price of a pass purchase. In addition to fitness offerings, travelers will find healthy food and beverage items and showers operated via a reservation system to guarantee members arrive at their gate on time. What’s especially impressive, ROAM can vacuum-seal used clothing for the purpose of keeping odors limited. The cost? Day pass: $40; month: $175; annual: $600.

Health-conscious airports aren’t limited to the United States. Toronto Pearson International offers the GoodLife Fitness, 10,000-square-foot facilities

STATE-OF-THE-ART: GoodLife Fitness at Toronto Pearson International (top), and ROAM Fitness (bottom)

PHOTOS: © GREATER TORONTO AIRPORTS AUTHORITY, © ROAM FITNESS

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for $15 per person, per day. GoodLife members with all Club access memberships are welcome to use the Toronto Pearson Club as a part of their membership. Clothing and shoe rentals are available for rent for $10. Expect a full workout between strength training and cardio equipment with personal viewing monitors.

While shoulder massage offerings aren’t new in airports, some locations are welcoming full-service spas. Emily Bernard, co-founder, PlacePass.com, recommends the Airport Wellness Oasis in Singapore Changi Airport’s Terminal 1, East Lounge. Travelers can indulge in massages, foot reflexology, manicures and pedicures or try the spa’s signature Fish Spa. The Hilton Munich Airport (located on site, between terminals 1 and 2) is home to the Fit & Fly Spa, says Bernard. The spa menu includes a variety of massages and treatments, while guests can also use the steam bath or sauna with separate areas for ladies and gentlemen. There is no need to be a hotel guest, as travelers can purchase a two-hour spa card.

Travelers hoping to complement their fitness efforts with healthy eating options may get a little nervous facing airport food courts, but Lindsay Mersereau of YourFitTrip.com is the guru of healthy airport options and says not to fear. Many airport venues are offering travelers better alternatives to greasy fast food. “Places like Hudson News and Cibo Market are placing an emphasis on healthy options versus candy and snacks by adding more fresh fruit, salads, healthy bars and protein drinks to their shelves,” Mersereau says, “Some airports have juice bars, salad bar-only options, frozen yogurt and other healthy concepts — but there is no pattern as to which airports have what. Notable mentions include the Farmers Market at Chicago O’Hare and Charlotte, N.C.; The Plant Café in San Francisco; and Camden Food Company in JFK. The best thing travelers can do is look up the options ahead of time to assess their best options.”

As Confucius says, “Wherever you go, there you are.” And, we hope, wherever you go caters to your health, wellness and fitness needs.

INDULGE:

Airport Wellness Oasis at Singapore Changi Airport’s Terminal 1 (top), and Fish Spa (bottom) PHOTOS: © AIRPORT WELLNESS OASIS

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feature

Staying Well

guests and its associates to “be their best selves”: Sleep Well, Eat Well, Move Well, Feel Well, Work Well and Play Well.

In October 2016 Westin commissioned a global survey of travelers, and of the 7,900 polled, 51 percent of North Americans expressed that, in the upcoming year, they will focus more on their wellness while traveling, and an astounding 83 percent indicated access to programs Wellness travel finds its stride at hotels and resorts. that enable them to maintain their wellness routines while traveling will

BY SUSAN B. BARNES be a consideration when choosing accommodations.

“Around the world we are seeing travelers realigning their priorities to put their well-being first, and Westin is proud to empower our guests FOR MANY TRAVELERS, staying true to healthy routines while on the to rise to the occasion and be their best selves on the road,” said Brian road proves difficult, whether eating, sleeping or working out. On the fitness side of things, hotels have long offered small gyms or fitness centers Povinelli, global brand leader, Westin Hotels & Resorts.

“We have definitely seen a shift as a nod to keeping fit, if even just in the way today’s travelers are a basic treadmill or stationary bike.

‘We have definitely seen a shift in the way incorporating well-being into their In recent years, however, hotels today’s travelers are incorporating well- work and travel routines, from miland resorts stepped up their fitness being into their work and travel routines.” lennials who view fitness activities to games, and many boast state-of-thebe more social than competitive to art facilities complete with personal Brian Povinelli, global brand leader, Westin Hotels & Resorts. business travelers who are shifting trainers and group classes. their preference from country clubs For more than a decade, Westin to running clubs,” continued Povinelli.

Hotels & Resorts has been a leader on the wellness side of hospitality In response to the survey’s findings, in January 2017 Westin debuted and even developed Westin’s Six Pillars of Well-Being to enable its

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its Let’s Rise campaign, “… more of a rally cry than a brand campaign, given today’s over-scheduled and always-on culture,” according to Povinelli.

Westin has certainly taken note of what travelers are looking for. Its Gear Lending program at every property, which debuted in 2012, enables guests to pack lighter and stay fit with loaner New Balance shoes and gear for a nominal fee. Additionally, in support of Let’s Rise, hotels are updating their WestinWORKOUT facilities by improving upon the array of strength-training equipment and cardio machines already available. Want to work out without leaving your room? Reserve a WestinWORKOUT Room and, in addition to all the amenities found in other guestrooms, you will also find yours furnished with exercise equipment so you can work out on your schedule. As far as those aforementioned running clubs? Nearly 200 global runWESTIN concierges are available to join guests for runs.

In addition, select Westin properties around the world feature unique outdoor wellness programs such as a surf concierge at The Westin LAX, a cycling concierge at The Westin Peachtree Plaza in Atlanta, or an on-mountain boot camp class at The Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort & Spa, Victoria in British Columbia.

Aside from international hotel brands, several destinations focus

solely on wellness travel, such as Canyon Ranch, with locations in Tucson, Ariz.; Lenox, Mass.; and Kaplankaya, near Bodrum, Turkey.

In February the Sansego Experience at Canyon Ranch debuted, combining the knowledge of three-time Ironman World Champion Craig Alexander and his coaches with Canyon Ranch’s wellness offerings.

“Canyon Ranch is truly a one-stop shop for the endurance athlete,” said Alexander. “The state-of-the-art peak performance testing and mental prep services, combined with world-class training venues and our Sansego coaches, offer the only package I know of that is focused on the whole athlete. As a father, athlete and businessman personally, it’s what I’ve always wanted.”

The Sansego Experience is tailored to each individual participant, from seasoned triathletes looking to better their edge to intermediate triathletes wanting to advance to the next level to newcomers eager to build their skill sets.

For those athletes who want the ultimate challenge, Alexander himself will host The Crowie Experience, a five-day camp offering athletes of all levels access to personalized service plans and group training exercises guaranteed to help triathletes accomplish their goals. The camp, held Sept. 16–21, is limited to 30 athletes.

JUNE 2017

FITNESS AND FUN:

(Left to right) Westin’s Yoga on the Mountain, WestinWORKOUT facility, Westin hike on Monica Meadows; and biking (top) and running (bottom) during Sansego Experience at Canyon Ranch PHOTOS: © WESTIN, © CANYON RANCH

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PEAK PERFORMANCE: Mountain Trek hike

PHOTO: © MOUNTAIN TREK

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In the rolling hills of British Columbia, the first mountainbased hiking, fitness and weight-loss program in North America can be found through Mountain Trek’s one- and two-week all-inclusive hiking retreats. These intense — up at 6 a.m. and on the go until your head hits the pillow about 15 hours later — yet intimate — limited to 16 guests per week — experiences feature a 4:1 staff-to-guest ratio.

It’s all about you at Mountain Trek, and the incredibly attentive staff make sure of it by personalizing the program for each guest.

They’ve got you covered, from doing your laundry and providing clean meals and snacks that cater to any and all dietary concerns to customizing exercise classes and hiking groups for your best workout. Glean the staff’s expertise during daily classes on the five steps of the Mountain Trek Way: nutrition, fitness, detoxification, sleep health and stress management.

With two locations, one in Austin, Texas, and the other in Hana, Maui, Travaasa Experiential Resorts encourage guests to try new, location-specific activities. According to the resorts’ vision, they “embody the best of what happens when you travel: the journey and the discovery of a place, people, yourself and the stories that define your life.”

In Austin guests may sign up for a mechanical bull workout, test their strength with some good old-fashioned hatchet throwing or reach new heights on the Prickly Pear Challenge Course. In Hana

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paddle an outrigger canoe; glide high above the island; or learn to play the ukulele, the popular Hawai’ian instrument that turned 100 years old last year.

Traditional workout classes are available in Austin and Hana, too, as are cooking classes that will have you ready to make the sumptuous yet healthy meals you enjoyed at Travaasa when you return back home.

On the Caribbean island of Antigua, 5-star Carlisle Bay is the first-ever hotel or resort to offer island bathing, a new meditative wellness experience that puts a Caribbean twist on the traditional shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) trend by connecting guests with nature, in turn improving their moods.

Carlisle Bay’s two-hour excursion whisks guests by private boat, at sunrise or sunset, to a secluded island where a wellness master leads them through guided meditation and breath work, surrounded by the calming sounds of gently breaking waves, rustling palms and Caribbean breezes.

According to studies by Columbia University, pounding surf creates negative ions in the air, which can help enhance mood, stimulate senses and oxygen absorption and even boost resistance to disease.

These are but a handful of ways hotels and resorts enable their guests to incorporate their wellness routines into travel, whether for business or pleasure — or a little bit of both.

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Convivial and Quirky

DIAPHANOUS, THE MIST RISES from the Amstel River like smoke conjured from a magic wand. Cold, we huddle on the leather seats of our snug, centuries-old saloon boat.

It’s outfitted with the aplomb of a proud sailor, with shiny bits of brass and dark wood.

Our bearded captain, stereotypically nautical, seems an extension of his craft. As the motor purrs and we pull away from the dock for an evening meander through Amsterdam’s canals, I sip Champagne and take a last look, for now, at our hotel, the InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam, one of the most storied and luxurious lodges in the “tulip city.” As glittery at night as the cut diamonds that hail from this Dutch capital, the hotel seems to wish us well on our journey, to invite us back to warm beds. But first, an old-fashioned jaunt on one of the hotel’s three historic

saloon boats. We cruise beneath brightly lit bridges and beside riverside pathways filled with couples holding hands, and bikers navigating around them. Lining each side, narrow canal houses rise toward the moon.

The glow inside illuminates the people within, and we watch, all the while nibbling canapés served by the captain himself, as life in Amsterdam unfolds.

This mood of utter romance is what the Dutch call gezellig, a word that means convivial coziness, intimacy — all things quixotic and chimerical. And we don’t just experience gezellig on our boat. Back at the Amstel, we seem enveloped in it. With its French Renaissance façade, gilded interior ceilings and original ornamental plasterwork, the hotel radiates the elegance of Cary Grant in a tuxedo. Chandeliers drip throughout, and the elevators are paneled with mahogany. Our room, the Royal Suite, once housed the Dutch king and queen for a night. It’s a regal symphony of river views, Delftware and mahogany-inlaid tables; there’s a canopied, silk damask-covered bed,

he new GT app is Amsterdam entices visitors with freewheeling fun. BY BECCA HENSLEY

DAYBREAK:

Beautiful spring sunrise viewed from one of Amsterdam’s many bridges PHOTO: © DENNIS VAN DE WATER | DREAMSTIME.COM

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mice | HONG KONG

At Your Own Pace Add breathing room to hectic event schedules in Hong Kong. BY RICHARD NEWTON ROUND THE CLOCK, DAY AND NIGHT, Hong Kong buzzes with energy. Even New York pales in comparison.

For first-time visitors the impact is utterly exhilarating.

This restless city is undoubtedly Chinese and yet is also completely international. Most of the population resides in Kowloon, a tight-packed district on the mainland, and the even tighter-packed Hong Kong Island — which ought to make for an oppressively confining atmosphere; yet as you survey the dense skyline across pungent Victoria Harbour, limitless possibilities seem to open up.

Hong Kong’s dynamism is infectious. This freewheeling, free-trading territory — a British colony until 1997 and now a Special Administrative Region of China — has long been one of the world’s most important business hubs. With its outstanding facilities and wealth of attractions, I contend it is also one of the greatest MICE destinations.

The facilities for meetings, conventions and exhibitions are peerless. The flagship venue, the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, prominently resides on reclaimed land jutting from the island’s waterfront.

Originally opened in 1988, it completed the first major expansion in 1997 to coincide with the territory’s handover to China. (The formal ceremony took place here.) A second expansion, completed in 2009, resulted in a total of 990,000 square feet of rentable function space.

The HKCEC has been voted the best in Asia 13 times, and with its central location it continues to be a popular venue for high-profile international gatherings. A direct ferry service provides a convenient link to the Kowloon mainland. The center, best known for staging mega events for thousands of delegates, can also cater to much smaller meetings. It features a range of rooms and halls of differing sizes, many of which offer panoramic views of the harbor.

MEETING TIME:

Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre exterior (top), and the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (bottom)

PHOTOS: © OLGA KHOROSHUNOVA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MIKE K. | DREAMSTIME.COM

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ON A CLEAR DAY: Hong Kong Observation Wheel (top), and the Peak Tower (bottom) PHOTOS: © ESTHERPOON | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RONNIECHUA | DREAMSTIME.COM

UNIQUE VENUES

Alongside Hong Kong’s abundance of conventional venues, there are plenty of offbeat options. Consider the futuristic Hong Kong Science Park, in a coastal setting in the New Territories region inland from Kowloon, midway between downtown Hong Kong and the mainland city of Shenzhen.

The Science Park offers a range of spaces, from the large Grand Hall to more intimate meeting rooms.

AsiaWorld-Expo, a 753,000-square-foot venue fully integrated with Hong Kong International Airport on Lantau Island, makes an ideal choice for one- or two-day international events for which delegates can swiftly fly in and out. By metro (MTR), downtown Hong Kong lies 28 minutes away (roundtrip about $7). Although less convenient for downtown than some other venues, AsiaWorld-Expo sits close to Hong Kong Disneyland and the Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car, which whisks visitors into the wooded hills of Lantau Island.

One of the newest venues is the Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, built on the disused runway of the famous old Hong Kong Airport and designed by Foster + Partners. As the name suggests, it serves primarily as a cruise ship terminal, but the building also includes dedicated MICE facilities with flexible indoor spaces of up to 32,000 square feet. A shuttle bus connects to the nearest MTR station, five minutes away.

The city offers a wealth of downtime activities, many of which can be tailored specifically for MICE groups. Among the latest attractions is the 200-foot-tall Hong Kong Observation Wheel, located on the island’s waterfront in Central District. MICE groups can reserve private VIP gondolas with a glass floor.

One of the most popular group outings takes visitors to the Peak, the mountain viewpoint directly above downtown Hong Kong on the island. The Peak Tram, a funicular railway, climbs from the hectic city streets, up the wooded flanks of the mountain to the distinctively shaped Peak Tower. In addition to offering outstanding views (on a clear

In Central District on Hong Kong Island, the Police Married Quarters, or PMQ — built in 1951 to accommodate married policemen and their families — has been converted into a quirky, trendy culinary center. The venue boasts more than 17,000 square feet of event space ideal for exhibitions or private parties.

The coast of Hong Kong is speckled with 263 islands, many of which can be visited on a daytrip by chartered junk. (Strictly speaking, the term applies to a traditional Chinese wooden sailboat, though it now also refers to charter motorboats.) Plenty of charter companies offer a range of boats and activities, priced either by boat or, if fully catered, per person. Junks.HK, a one-stop search platform, helps to match you with the ideal package to fit your group’s needs.

day), the Peak Tower is home to the Hong Kong outpost of Madame Tussauds wax museum. (You probably won’t recognize many of the celebrities — Korean boy bands and the like — though you will find quite a few global stars and politicians.)

Although downtown Hong Kong is unrelentingly frenetic, it offers opportunities for respite. Up the narrow, bustling Graham Street in Central District, you’ll find SOL Wellness, a holistic center that offers sessions in yoga and meditation, sound and energy therapies, Ayurvedic consultation, aromatherapy and massage. The center provides a range of corporate wellness services to some of Hong Kong’s biggest companies, who recognize that in this dynamic city it is vitally important, from time to time, to relax and recharge.

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I was one of our nation’s hungry kids growing up. Today, 1 in 5 children in America struggle with hunger. But when they get breakfast, their days are bigger and brighter.

Learning, attention, memory and mood improve. Together, we have the power to get breakfast to kids in your neighborhood — let’s make it happen. Go to hungeris.org and lend your time or your voice.

Viola Davis, Hunger Is Ambassador

Hunger Is® is a joint initiative of the Albertsons Companies Foundation and the Entertainment Industry Foundation, which are 501(c)(3) charitable organizations.

Photo By: Peggy Sirota

MAKE BRE AKFAST HAPPEN SO KIDS CAN BE HUNGRY FOR MORE

to Toron ‘t.’ e c n u no econd s o r e p h t s out local aving Most e l , o n o as T’r

BUSINESS destinations

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TORONTO

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CHICAGO

62 PHOTOS: © PETER MINTZ / ONTARIO TOURISM, © HENRIK STOVRING | DREAMSTIME.COM

BEIJING

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PRAGUE

LEISURE destinations

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COOK ISLANDS

destination one | TORONTO

Riding High New projects soar in tech-friendly Toronto.

BY RON BERNTHAL

ON THE RISE: Rendering of Hotel X Toronto PHOTO: © HOTEL X TORONTO

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IN MID-JANUARY, as a biting wind off Lake Ontario blew across the 30th-story rooftop of the not-yet-completed Hotel X Toronto, Celso Thompson, the property’s director of sales, surveyed the 360-degree view of Toronto’s gleaming skyscrapers, residential neighborhoods and the distant water plume of Niagara Falls at the edge of the lake’s horizon, 36 nautical miles away. Not far from the hotel, aircraft from Porter Airlines looked like toys as they took off and landed at Billy Bishop Airport.

As Thompson waved his arm across this vibrant urban scene, he gushed about the three-

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story Peregrine Skybar and two swimming pools that would occupy part of the rooftop, along with a fourstory, 90,000-square-foot indoor fitness and wellness center being constructed on the ground below and the 404 guestrooms and suites that will fill the tower when it opens this summer.

The Hotel X Toronto is just one project of dozens expected to dramatically enhance Toronto’s cultural, recreational and technological presence in the world. New projects in the Greater Toronto Area attract businesses and entrepreneurs, with a net migration of about 100,000 people each year, many settling in the fast-growing surrounding municipalities such as Brampton, Milton and Bradford West Gwillimbury, as well as downtown near the lakeshore and along the Yonge subway corridor. High-rise condominiums and mixed-use office towers sprout like wildflowers as rising real estate prices make affordable private homes difficult to find. Last year, more than 29,186 condo units were sold across the GTA, a 30 percent increase over 2015. The taller

COMING AND GOING

For tourist visits to Canada of less than 180 days, U.S. citizens do not need visas but must have a passport or membership in the NEXUS trusted traveler program.

Other types of travel (work, study or immigration) generally require visas. Children under 16 must present proof of U.S. citizenship.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

English and French in Canada, with English used mostly in Toronto

towers include Number One Bloor (75 stories, 2017), Harbour Place Residences East (66 stories, 2017), Eau de Soleil Sky Tower (66 stories, 2018) and Ten York (65 stories, 2019). Presently, Toronto ranks second to New York in the number and size of major buildings under construction in North America.

The real estate firm Newmark Knight Frank Devencore reported more than 2.2 million square feet of new office space will come to the downtown market in 2017, more than double the space created last year. “Driving much of the leasing activity are tenants in the financial services, legal, media entertainment and high-tech sectors,” said Allan Schaffer, president and broker of record at the firm’s downtown Toronto office. “Demand continues to be strong for office space in the new towers, and many built-out sublease spaces are attracting multiple offers and do not remain on the market for very long.”

Cutting-edge firms — many founded in Toronto, others moving from Montréal, Vancouver and Silicon Valley — spur the incredible downtown revitalization. Influitive, Wattpad, EventMobi and QD Solar are local startup companies, as is the MaRS Discovery District, established in 2000 and one of the world’s largest urban innovation hubs. The MaRS Toronto building, with 1.5 million square feet, houses startups involved in health, science and technology.

Toronto boasts the most prolific saturation of tech companies in Canada, housing the headquarters of almost half of the top 250 technology firms in Canada. The city is the third-largest tech hub

in North America, behind Silicon Valley and New York, with major global firms like Google, Facebook and Microsoft occupying offices downtown.

Approximately 168,000 people work at more than 15,000 technology companies in the GTA, generating annual revenues of about $38 billion.

Since 57 percent of the city’s workforce is under age 45, many high-tech firms outfit their downtown offices with wellness and fitness amenities. Shopify’s Toronto office took up the wellness mantra with a strategy that says, “What is all that work if you can’t also play once in a while?” Its workplace offers guitars, foosball and Ping Pong tables, a Red Bull fridge and a full suite of video game systems all tucked in a low-ceilinged space to keep the noise low.

Ubisoft Toronto won a recent Best Office Gym award from Techvibes.com for its U.Fit gym space; but if hard-working Torontonians don’t have an office gym, they can visit Hubba Toronto (voted Best Yoga Studio by Techvibes.com) or Elmwood Spa, which recently completed a $700,000 renovation.

Downtown hotels also promote wellness. At the Omni King Edward Hotel, the rejuvenated Nouvelle Maria Spa will complement the new look and feel of the refurbished hotel and provide first-class spa services to guests and locals. The spa introduces La Peau anti-aging gel from Switzerland with a revolutionary BeCell molecular complex.

One of the largest and most elegant spas in the city remains the Spa at the Four Seasons Hotel Toronto, with 30,000 square feet offering 17 oversized treatment rooms; two steam rooms; five deluxe suites for two; and a salon with hair, manicure and pedicure stations. Located on the ninth floor, the spa

NEW HEIGHTS: Rendering of M City’s iconic towers, part of a new urban project (left), and Teeple Architects’ Picasso on Richmond condos (right) PHOTOS: © NORM LI, © DOUBLESPACE PHOTOGRAPHY

LODGING

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL TORONTO This 5-star, 55-story flagship (with private FS apartments on the top 25 floors) opened in 2012 with 1,700 works by Canadian artists.

Enjoy Café Boulud, the popular d|bar and a luxurious spa and fitness center.

60 Yorkville Ave. $$$$$ HOTEL X TORONTO Part of the Library Hotel Collection, the 404room hotel boasts numerous dining venues, rooftop swimming and SkyBar, VIP check-in, a four-story athletic facility, underground parking and views of city and lake.

111 Princes’ Blvd. $$$–$$$$ SHANGRI-LA HOTEL TORONTO The downtown location offers 159 spacious guestrooms; 49 suites; Bosk fine-dining restaurant; a 9,000-square-foot health/wellness club and yoga studio; an indoor swimming pool; and Moroccan-French Miraj Hammam Spa. David Chang’s Momofuku restaurant is adjacent.

188 University Ave. $$$$$

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JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT-4 Phone code: Country code: 1 City codes: 416, 647, 437 Currency: Canadian dollar Key industries: Financial services, health/life sciences, fashion/apparel, educational services, design, aerospace, food and beverage, technology

RELAX AND RECHARGE: Four Seasons Toronto Hotel exterior (top) and Spa Terrace (middle), and Waterfront Toronto Simcoe WaveDeck (bottom) PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS HOTEL TORONTO, © WATERFRONT TORONTO

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adjoins the indoor relaxation pool, co-ed whirlpool and outdoor terrace overlooking the city. Locker facilities feature steam rooms and personal grooming amenities; and a 24-hour, 3,500-square-foot fitness center on the eighth floor is available to Four Seasons guests and residents only. The spa offers extensive wellness therapies including Traditional Chinese Medicine techniques related to sleep and dream management, fatigue and women’s health issues, along with pain, anxiety and stress relief. A spiritual advisor is on hand.

For Toronto visitors who want a more private, do-it-yourself wellness experience, all the Canadian Le Germain properties offer a “Nama Stay” experience, providing guests four online videos and a Lululemon yoga mat to practice relaxation in the privacy of their room.

The City of Toronto offers hundreds of fitness and swimming classes for residents and visitors at affordable rates at 40 facilities. Purchase $9 pay-as-you-go, one-day passes; punch-card 10-day passes; or unlimited-visit passports.

At the new Hotel X Toronto, the innovative Ten X Toronto athletic facility includes four Deco Turf indoor tennis courts with 50-foot ceilings; nine glassbacked squash courts; yoga, Pilates, spinning and group fitness studios; a golf simulator; physiotherapy and chiropractic clinics; a 4,500-square-foot, full-service spa; and a nutrition and juice bar.

Although the Bisha Hotel & Residences, the city’s other big summer hotel opening, will not contain a wellness or yoga studio, it is the newest private-label boutique hotel brand to originate in Toronto since Four Seasons arrived in the 1960s. Rising 44 stories and designed by Toronto’s Wallman Architects, the property offers 355 suites, a rooftop restaurant and pool, and a lounge-style café and bar. Toronto’s Charles Khabouth created the Bisha concept as a place where guests can eat dinner, party and stay the night. Khabouth, CEO, Ink Entertainment, made his name as the city’s “king of clubs,” and this new venture will surely attract the A-list crowd.

Nobu Hospitality, the luxury restaurant and hotel chain founded by Robert De Niro and Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa, is planning Canada’s first Nobu-branded condo complex on Mercer Street in Toronto’s entertainment district. Two 49-story towers will rise above the historic Pilkington Glass Factory and include 700 condo units, a hotel, meeting spaces, a restaurant, ground-floor retail space and an outdoor Zen garden.

The largest project in Toronto, however, is the multibillion-dollar, 2,000-acre revitalization of the waterfront districts, including West Don Lands, East Bayfront, the Port Lands and Queens Quay. Once a post-industrial wasteland, the waterfront projects currently underway and those scheduled in the years ahead will feature residential and office towers, parkland and recreational areas skirting the lakeshore, and commercial and cultural districts, all with savvy design features.

VIBRANT DISTRICT: Distillery District (top), and Toronto artist Sarah Phelps in her Distillery District studio with The Greatest, acrylic and mixedmedia on canvas PHOTOS: © TOURISM TORONTO, © SARAH PHELPS

DINING

ALO Chef Patrick Kriss’ nightly multicourse tasting menu may include steelhead trout, caviar and Hokkaido sea scallops. Alo topped the 2017 list by Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants magazine. Reservations necessary, open Tuesday– Saturday, dinner only.

163 Spandia Ave. $$$$$ LUCKEE Located in the chic Metropolitan Hotel, Luckee’s varied menu includes dim sum, dumplings, baked sweet soya-glazed cod and Hong Kongstyle steamed sea bass.

Reserve a counter seat at the glass-walled open kitchen.

Metropolitan Hotel, 318 Wellington St. W. $$$–$$$$

CHECKING IN WITH GEORGE SPEZZA

Director, Business Growth Services, City of Toronto Economic Development and Culture Which Toronto neighborhoods have experienced positive results from revitalization and restoration?

Many neighborhoods have been successful in their business plans for regeneration. In the past 10 years the historic Distillery District, east of downtown, turned into a vibrant residential, retail, restaurant and arts center. Developers transformed a group of Victorian-era industrial buildings into a destination for both residents and visitors, opening in 2003 and improving each year with new venues and residential amenities. In Liberty Village, just west of downtown, ongoing development brought about living lofts, offices and creative industries from former factories and warehouses. Everyone loves the brick and beam concept here, which continues to evolve.

The Waterfront Project meets a long-term goal to link the eastern areas of downtown with the lakeshore. Will this be good for the city?

It will be great for the city. This is a huge project involving many new mixed-use structures, commercial and residential space and lots of creative industries like design and high-tech firms. The opportunities are significant

because the projects are close to the downtown core, and the proximity to Lake Ontario is vital for the city’s growth potential.

How is the restoration of Union Station coming along?

There has already been improvement in the shops, restaurant venues and residential areas around Union Station, opened in 1927, and to the portions of the station owned by the city, including an overhaul of the concourses. We have already seen benefits with several new office developments in the area. The beauty of the restored station livens up Front Street, and the newly built York concourse is now open and ready.

STK The steak chain opened its first Canadian property last year in Toronto’s upscale Yorkville neighborhood. The high-quality steaks, inventive cocktails, Las Vegas-style vibe, friendly staff and DJ music ensure you leave satisfied.

153 Yorkville Ave. $$$$

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INFO TO GO

IN THE WORKS: The Museum of Contemporary Art will open this fall in a restored 1919 building (top), and Project Under Gardiner will use key landmarks as anchors along the one-mile trail below the Gardiner Expressway (bottom).

PHOTOS: © MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, © STEPHANIE E. CALVET

DIVERSIONS

Last month the Museum of Contemporary Art Toronto Canada re-opened in the trendy, revitalized Lower Junction area. MOCA’s mandate is to exhibit, research, collect and promote innovative art by Canadian and international artists whose works engage and address challenging issues and themes relevant to our times. The new museum occupies the first two and a half floors of Toronto’s iconic 1919 Tower Automotive Building and will become the focal point of a new eight-acre residential, arts and cultural community when the project is completed in several years.

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The Art Gallery of Ontario offers a special Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition and the interesting, Canadainspired “Every. Now. Then: Reframing Nationhood” as part of Canada’s 150th anniversary. At the Royal Ontario Museum, the “Out of the Depths: The Blue Whale Story” exhibit is open to visitors.

The $25 million Bentway project, aka the “Under Gardiner” will transform a mile of vacant land underneath Toronto’s Gardiner Expressway into an urban corridor offering pedestrian and bike paths, gardens, a skating rink, recreational amenities, public markets, public art, special exhibitions, festivals and theater and musical performances when it opens in July.

Most domestic and international flights arrive at Pearson International Airport, about 15 miles (25–40 minutes) from downtown.

The best way to travel to/from Pearson is by Union Pearson Express, a modern train running every 15 minutes to two city UP stations and downtown’s Union Rail Station (25 minutes; $5.30–12, children 12 and under free). The train offers free WiFi, power outlets, luggage racks and flight information screens.

Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport, on Centre Island, connects to downtown by a short tunnel (10 minutes). It is the hub for Porter Airlines, offering flights to 15 Canadian cities and eight U.S. gateways. Billy Bishop received top marks in the Skytrax 2016 World Airport Awards for fast check-in, ease of access to the terminal and courtesy and efficiency of airport staff.

be rewarded. be one.

Earn and redeem miles and points across all member airlines. As a oneworld traveler, wherever you go, your rewards follow.

Learn more at oneworld.com

an alliance of the world's leading airlines working as one. airberlin American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines

oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on oneworld, visit www.oneworld.com. airberlin, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld.

stateside | CHICAGO

Heart of the City Commerce, culture and community thrive in downtown Chicago. BY SHARON KING HOGE BOLD DESIGN:

Frank Gehry-designed amphitheater at Millennium Park (left), and Aqua Building​(right) PHOTOS: © F11PHOTO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © JIM ROBERTS | DREAMSTIME .COM

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IT’S “THE BEST OF TIMES, THE WORST OF TIMES” in Chicago, a microcosm Tale of Two Cities, with outlying neighborhoods plagued by crime while the urban core prospers. Of 500 highly publicized gunfire incidents recorded in the first two months of this year, 100 of them homicides, a map shows the crimes were restricted to districts wrapped around the inner city, where not a single shooting took place. Despite a loss of revenue from the bankrupt State of Illinois floundering to work out a budget, outside the beleaguered area development manages to thrive.

Home to more than two dozen Fortune 500 companies in manufacturing, insurance, food processing, printing and publishing, Chicago rates among the world’s 20 largest economies.

The heart of the city, one of the world’s most important Central Business Districts, the Loop embraces business and government office towers, a theater district and a wealth of

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cultural institutions: the Lyric Opera, Chicago Symphony and Joffrey Ballet. The former Marshall Field’s department store is being repurposed, and the iconic Palmer House Hotel has been fully renovated. Extensive railroad yards that once overran the lakefront have revitalized into a green urban park with an amphitheater designed by Frank Gehry; Jeanne Gang’s award-winning Aqua mixed-use residential office tower; and Anish Kapoor’s silver Cloud Gate sculpture, nicknamed The Bean, with a shiny surface that reflects the surrounding urban activity.

Property values are soaring in the West Loop, a gritty industrial area of wholesale markets, meat packers, food distributors and warehouses rapidly transforming into a lively area of hotels, offices and apartments. McDonald’s is relocating its headquarters from Oak Brook to a super-sized office building on the former site of Oprah’s Harpo Studios in the Fulton Market District, and Caterpillar announced plans to move its global operation to town from Peoria. Farther west in Garfield, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers is converting a 30,000-square-foot warehouse into a consignment business to sell furniture and decorative art online. Nearby, an 80,000-square-foot entrepreneur incubator, The Hatchery, will provide space to foster 75–100 food service startups which reinforce the city’s active restaurant scene.

Another incubator, 1871, acquired space to nurture tech

COMMUNITY ART:

Murals on a building in Pilsen​ PHOTO: © STEFANIA ROSSITTO | DREAMSTIME.COM

SCENIC DRIVES

startups among the longstanding showrooms for interior design, furniture and apparel in the mammoth 4.2-millionsquare-foot Merchandise Mart. Named for the year of the Chicago fire, which led to an innovative rebuilding of the city, 1871 provides an affordable downtown place for tech startups “to share ideas, make mistakes, work hard and build up businesses intended to change the world.”

Massive expansion of O’Hare International Airport with flights to more than 150 domestic destinations, a Midway Airport upgrade and reconstruction of the Dan Ryan Expressway all enhanced the city’s accessibility. Located in the middle of the country with both U.S. coasts and Washington, D.C., easy daytrips away, the city offers a convenient out-of-town commute for lawyers, consultants and bankers.

Gentrification progresses in neighborhoods contiguous to the central city without sacrificing ethnic and historic character. Latino Pilsen maintains its colorful murals, Humboldt Park remains rich in Puerto Rican heritage, and landscaped boulevard medians make up the “emerald necklace” embracing Logan Square. Farther afield, the Barack Obama Presidential Library is expected to boost revitalization of Jackson Park.

A wealth of outdoor fitness options, many linked to the

shores of convenient Lake Michigan, balance the city’s gourmet bounty. Within walking distance of office towers discover wide, sandy beaches where swimmers can also rent canoes, kayaks and paddle boards. Cyclists and joggers enjoy several designated paths, notably the Lakefront Trail, stretching 18 miles past museums, harbors, monuments, beaches and high-rises. Those undaunted by the notorious winters can ice skate outdoors at several city rinks. Local concessions offer snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and curling; and right downtown (and lit at night) sits the 220foot slope of the Soldier Field Sledding Hill. Less strenuous therapies await at distinguished downtown day spas such as Charles Joseph Salon and Spa, the Red Door and Mario Tricoci.

With North America’s largest convention center, McCormick Place, and facilities at Navy Pier, the city is a leader in group tourism. A consolidation of tourist and conference agencies into the official sales and marketing promoter Choose Chicago bolstered tourism, and the 2016 tally was already within a million of Mayor Rahm Emanuel’s goal to reach 55 million visitors by 2020.

Chicago frequently ranks as a top city to visit, a fitting tribute to America’s nicknamed Second City.

Outlying areas offer worthwhile daytrip destinations.

An hour and a half north in southeast Wisconsin, Lake Geneva was the popular summer retreat of Chicago’s wealthy barons. Their Gilded Age mansions line Shore Path, and the Grand Geneva Resort & Spa was the site of Hugh Hefner’s original Playboy Club.

Heading south to Peoria, the 150-mile drive passes the Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie in Kankakee, 1,200 acres of restored meadow grassland inhabited by a herd of bison. Capponi’s and Mona’s restaurants in Toluca make popular stops for tortellini or signature fettuccini. In Peoria sample whiskey at J.K. Williams Distilling or 175 whiskeys on hand at the Hearth Restaurant, serving wood-grilled steaks and chops.

A fitting destination for this 150th anniversary year of Frank Lloyd Wright is a visit to the architect’s studio and the world’s largest collection of his designs in Oak Park. The Chicago suburb, a half hour west of downtown, claims 21 Wright-designed structures which can be toured by foot, car or a special two-hour pedal tour.

l rigina o ’s t eura See S y on the nda the ‘A Su te’ at t a J de Gran ute. nstit I t r A

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

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9–5 | BEIJING

Good Vibrations Moments of Zen help balance work and well-being in Beijing. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY MEDITATION IN MOTION:

Tai chi at Longevity Hill at the Summer Palace in Beijing PHOTO: © RAFAEL BEN ARI | DREAMSTIME.COM

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AMID THE CENTURIES-OLD cypress trees at the Temple of Heaven in the southeastern Dongcheng District, wellness seekers gracefully move to the tai chi master’s meditative motions, their arms raised in this ribbon of green space to give morning thanks.

As Beijing is all aflutter, whirring in a cacophony of traffic heightened by a sea of pedestrians and a flood of chic electronic bikes, you smile. Tai chi class is now over; time to let the Zen continue. The ancient daily Chinese ritual believed to overcome stress and anxiety with its enriching therapeutic powers makes the perfect kick start in China’s capital where commerce, industry and government meet.

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The city has a network of posh properties, parks and historic districts from which one can veer off the bustling main path to embrace another side of busy Beijing. It’s Beijing with wellness benefits — and corporate travelers have taken note.

By the ancient Hutong District in the heart of Beijing, dial back time to early China in this delightful area dotted in heritage buildings, many of them home to generations of artisans. The best way is to hop on a pedicab rickshaw for a riveting cycling journey that skirts along Houhai Lake to the hidden alleyways for glimpses of real Beijing.

While there, meet a local artist in the Hutong District. A collection of studios off the quiet laneways thrives in this mini artist colony. Step inside Arrow Factory, resurrected from an old vegetable street store, for contemporary art viewing on Arrow Street, or head to Lab 47, an independently owned art space for experimental work.

Beijing offers a handful of wellness areas big on pushing out the city stresses with feng shui vibes, evident at various luxury hotels. The NUO Hotel Beijing, located in the Chaoyang District, is designed in a feng shui fish motif that meshes other feng shui elements such as the lobby water statue called Le Shan. The 438-room hotel, whose name derives from the Chinese character meaning “the golden promise,” is described

as a “Modern Ming by design” property drawing inspiration from the country’s 5,000 years of history.

China’s first homegrown luxury hotel brand boasts a rich collection of original art from iconic Chinese artist Zeng Fanzhi basking in an oasis of calm. NUO Hotel Beijing also lies in close proximity to the Temple of Heaven. A jaunt to this iconic Ming Dynasty landmark built in 1420 is made even easier when using local boutique firms to handle the details. Bespoke Travel, a private city tour company, curates custom-made wellness itineraries and has created special Beijing tours for the likes of actor Matt Damon and his family and singer Katy Perry.

During another morning refresher, head to a hotel spa like the NUO Spa, which uses Traditional Chinese Medicine inspired by Huangdi Neijing (Inner Canon of the Yellow Emperor) in its spa treatments. The five life-force qi elements including yin and yang, holistic philosophies, are incorporated in this healthy lifestyle technique through the spa’s Warm Wood Signature Massage, resulting in a relaxed meditative state. The spa and Traditional Chinese Medicine center make a good location to sit down and chat with clients pre- or post-spa treatment.

Once you’re revived, it’s off to a mid-morning business meeting conveniently located inside one of NUO Hotel’s meeting rooms. Later, the tranquil courtyard atmosphere emitted at the Yuan Tea House offers an ideal breather as clients further discuss strategies over exclusive premium teas from the finest tea plantations in China.

For lunch, head to King’s Joy restaurant in Dongcheng District. Hop inside one of the NUO Hotel’s private limos — a neat flashback vintage car called Red Flags popular in Chairman Mao Zedong’s era — that whisks past frenetic commuters.

Nothing beats a private chauffeur navigating the congested streets for scheduled lunch meetings despite the profusion of Beijing’s multilayered transportation network.

Beijing’s most impressive fine-dining vegetarian restaurant, designed by Chinese-American architect Yung Ho Chang, King’s Joy continues the Zen moments with its striking courtyard house popular among Chinese media and entertainment types and the well-heeled.

Amid a forest of bamboo, patrons lunch on light, fresh fare sourced from organic farms in this intimate setting helmed by Canadian-Taiwanese restaurateur David Yin, himself a vegetarian. “This is a way to showcase my ideas,” he once told The Wall Street Journal. “I see it as a kind of responsibility, like monks going out and spreading Buddhist ideas.”

Located across from the haute restaurant, the Lama Temple covers more than 300 years of Buddhist history and sets the right balance as you indulge your client in a post-lunch tour of the temple housing the world’s largest wooden Buddha.

You check your watch — if all goes well, there’s still time to hit an acupuncture session and tour Beijing’s oldest pharmacy, Tongrentang, in the Dashilan area of Beijing. But for now, you stand silent before the wooden Buddha in this hidden gem to discover there is more peace to be found in Beijing.

BODY AND SOUL:

Maitreya Buddha statue in the Hall of Boundless Happiness, Lama Temple (top), and Beijing’s oldest pharmacy, Tongrentang (bottom) PHOTOS: © STRIPPEDPIXEL | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ZHAOJIANKANG | DREAMSTIME.COM

eijing Find B ts ut spo chill-o rks, ples, pa at tem ants estaur spas, r with hotels e x u l and be. shui vi a feng

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after 5 | PRAGUE

On Tap Revitalize from head to toe in beer-loving Prague. BY ALLIE MOORE

UNWIND:

Bustling Old Town Square at night (left), and beer (right) PHOTOS: © ROSTISLAV GLINSKY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXEY MASHTAKOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

MEDIEVAL BRIDGES, sky-kissing spires and some of the cheapest beer in Europe are just a few distinct details that make Prague a fanciful playground come nightfall.

The Czech capital was once considered the (unofficial) Paris of Eastern Europe, but recently Prague has come into its own, drawing hordes to its cobblestone streets, underground pubs and unparalleled character.

The affordability of the city’s entertainment makes it easy to stretch a few Czech korunas for a hearty meal and a handful of Pilsner Urquell beers.

Begin an enchanting evening in Prague’s Old Town (Stare Mesto) where the main square sizzles with activity at all hours. Fill up on a plate of dumplings and traditional Czech sausage (talián), washed down with $2 beers at Pub U Zeleného Stromu, a Bohemian restaurant with a floral patio garden.

For a more sophisticated sit-down supper, head a few blocks west to Bellevue, a French fine-dining spot with views of the Vltava River. Post-dinner coffee (or cocktails) can be found down the street at the LGBTQ hot spot Q Café. A rousing night begins at

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the one and only Chapeau Rouge, a three-story bar with live music, DJs and enough dancing to last through the night.

Stroll to the opposite side of the Vltava River by way of the 14th-century Charles Bridge, a spectacle in itself that begins and ends with arched gateways and is flanked by saintly statues. The hilltop Prague Castle, an eminent staple in Prague’s pristine skyline, notably marks the west side of the river. Downhill toward the river lies Prague’s Little Quarter, or Malá Strana, a Baroque heaven where the Lennon Wall and grass-covered Petrin Hill reside. Once a haven for German immigrants, the neighborhood is home to Prague’s largest beer hall, Baráčnická rychta.

Cap off the night with the best of both worlds: beers and baths. Prague’s love for beer extends to all areas of the service industry, even within the walls of the city’s spas. Old Town’s Bernard Beer Spa maintains a centuries-old tradition of soaking in beer-filled barrel tubs, providing multiple benefits for body and mind. Hop oils help open pores, facilitate circulation and moisturize the hair and skin, a welcome indulgence after an evening of gluttony.

lic Repub h c e z The C beer1 . o N is the ion on t a n g n drinki an t, with e n a l p the a -capit r e p l a annu f ption o m u s n o c rs 60 lite 1 t u o ab . pints) (338

neighborhoods | COPENHAGEN

On a Stroll Set out for an energizing walk through Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter. BY GREGORY D. MCCLUNEY

Copenhagen

FREE EXERCISE:

The house painted with a mural at the entrance to Christiania (left), and bicyclists in Kompagnistræde (right) PHOTOS: © ZASTAVKIN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © VISIT COPENHAGEN

CONSISTENTLY VOTED ONE of Europe’s best walking cities, Copenhagen offers visitors miles of parks, pedestrian-only streets, castles and museums, and great food — everything from a simple Tivoli Gardens hot dog to fine-dining restaurants ranked among the best in the world.

During your visit, you can choose to walk among the historic mansions of Frederiksberg, a neighborhood that retains its independence and isn’t even technically a part of the city. Or head to Christiania, a hipster area along the waterfront that represents the liberal freethinking of independent Danes. However, if your time in Copenhagen is limited, the Latin Quarter has it all.

Centrally located in downtown Copenhagen, the Latin Quarter offers 5-star hotels and fine-dining restaurants plus quick and efficient transport to almost every other part of the city by the Metro, city-supplied bikes, city bus or clean and efficient cabs (most drivers speak English). Danes, being a hardy lot, often prefer to just walk. After all,

Copenhagen boasts Europe’s longest pedestrianized shopping street, at about a mile, beginning at Rådhuspladsen, or City Hall Square.

The Latin Quarter is bordered on the north by Indre (Old Town), home of the famous Little Mermaid sculpture, and on the south by the island of Slotsholmen and the parliament buildings, Christiansborg Palace and the Royal Library. To the east lie the canals and cafés of Nyhavn and the Royal Palace, castle and museums of Amalienborg. To the west you’ll find the wonder of Tivoli Gardens.

In every direction the Latin Quarter gives visitors the chance to stretch their legs and explore the many museums and different parts of the Københavns (Copenhagen) University system. The Quarter contains the most 5-star hotels, including the Hotel Skt. Petri and the Nimb Hotel, as well as highly recommended restaurants such as the København, Rene’s Brasserie and the Restaurant Grøften in Tivoli, which serves traditional Danish dishes as well as gluten-free bread and sugar-free desserts. For high rollers, the restaurant Geranium, holder of three Michelin stars, lies just a short cab ride away.

A vibrant club and nightlife scene hums throughout the city, but a large concentration lies just a few blocks north of the Quarter on the way to Old Town, including the popular LGBTQ club Oscar Bar Café and the famous Copenhagen Jazzhouse.

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friends & family | TUSCANY

La Dolce Vita Town to town, discover the art of living well in Tuscany.

BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

IN THE HILLS:

San Gimignano on the hill (left), and view from the tower (right) PHOTOS: © YVON52 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DRNOAH | DREAMSTIME.COM

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WHEN TUSCANS LIFT A GLASS OF their beloved Brunello di Montalcino and say, “Salute” — “To your health” — they mean it.

And they offer a lifestyle to make it possible. For amid those postcardperfect Tuscan hill towns flow thermal springs where Etruscans and Romans soaked, and where medieval pilgrims rested their weary legs en route to Rome.

Today these hot springs are fitted with luxurious trappings the sybaritic Romans would have envied. Spa resorts serve as perfect bases for Tuscan holidays that can include walking, cycling and other active ways of seeing the region’s many attractions. Full-scale health and wellness centers cater to those in need of a longer retreat.

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Tuscany lies at the center of Italy, with Pisa, Florence and Siena — a trio of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations — forming a triangle at its heart. Wine routes wind among its vineyards and between its hill towns where you can savor the region’s most famous products: Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Medieval towers of hilltop towns dot rolling landscapes of vineyards and poppy-splashed meadows. You can imagine yourself in the 13th century as you enter San Gimignano, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, preserving 13 of its original 70 tall towers.

Each hill town has its own character and story: Volterra preserves a rich Etruscan and Roman history, Montepulciano’s wealthy noble families attracted top Renaissance artists and architects, and little Montalcino sits inside well-preserved 12th-century walls. In Arezzo you can see the works of several of the greatest Renaissance masters without the crowds of Florence or Siena.

But for all its iconic sights, Tuscany is a supremely satisfying place to just kick back and relax with friends or

the whole family. Rent a spacious farmhouse or villa for a week, share a full-scale luxury spa retreat or get your adrenaline pumping on a bike or walking tour. You couldn’t ask for more scenic surroundings.

Deep in wine country, between Montepulciano and Montalcino, Adler Thermae Resort and Spa was among the first to create a modern 5-star hotel around its ancient thermal springs. The spa’s more than 120 treatments and a staff of 40 (including physicians) provide individual care that includes relaxation, beauty, weight loss and modern and alternative medicine, taking fullest advantage of the healing thermal waters of Bagno Vignoni.

The family-run resort recently added its own on-property vineyard and winery, producing organic wines from Sangiovese, the region’s classic grape.

Guests can join walking or cycling tours of the vineyard, wine tastings and hands-on cooking classes of traditional foods like focaccia and tiramisu.

Etruscans and Romans luxuriated in the 100degree waters of San Giuliano Terme, just outside of Pisa (and 30 minutes from Tuscany’s primary airport).

The 18th-century Grand Duke of Tuscany built his summer palace for direct access to its healing waters, now the sumptuous hotel Bagni di Pisa. Guests will find aesthetic and medical treatments, Eastern medicine, fitness and massage therapy at the spa, along with weight-loss and detox programs and the signature Salus per Aquam (healing through water).

Another specialty of Bagni di Pisa is treatments with thermal mud made by mixing natural local clay with the warm spring water, especially effective for muscle and joint pain. Organically grown ingredients lie at the heart of the cuisine served in the spa’s elegant Dei Lorena Restaurant.

Bagni di Pisa and Grotta Giusti, a Tuscan spa between Florence and Pisa, offer a new Equilibrium wellness program, a total body overhaul of three days to a full week that includes a microbiotic diet, nutritional coaching, cooking lessons, fitness classes, thermal treatments, relaxation and physical therapy.

The impressive 19th-century villa of Grotta Giusti houses Europe’s largest thermal cave; both spas are members of the Italian Hospitality Collection.

Opened just this spring, the 5-star Il Castelfalfi Resort occupies a 2,700-acre estate in a medieval village between Florence and Volterra. In addition to the full-service Armonia spa, Il Castelfalfi offers indoor and outdoor

TUSCAN TREATS:

Old thermal baths in the medieval village of Bagno Vignoni (top), and an enoteca, or wine cellar, in Montalcino (bottom) PHOTOS: © ROBERT ZEHETMAYER | DREAMSTIME .COM, © LEJOCH | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING

ADLER THERMAE RESORT Each luxury room and suite has a private balcony or terrace overlooking the Val d’Orcia, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Kids’ Club welcomes children with a daily program of games, wellness and activities.

Strada di Bagno Vignoni 1, San Quirico d’Orcia $$$$$ BAGNI DI PISA Absorb the 18th-century ambience of hotel rooms with frescoed ceilings, Carrara marble bathrooms and views to the Leaning Tower. The Dei Lorena Restaurant uses local organic ingredients.

Largo Percy Bysshe Shelley 18, San Giuliano Terme, Pisa $$$$ IL CASTELFALFI Constructed of local wood and stone with central biomass heating fueled by the wood chips produced on the estate, this brand-new hotel is Climacertified as well as being the ultimate in luxury.

swimming, a bio-sauna, hammam, hydro-massage and a fitness center. Castelfalfi’s 27-hole golf course is the largest in Tuscany, where the temperate climate allows almost year-round play.

The seductive Tuscan landscape invites the intimacy that only comes with setting your feet to its soil, and there’s no

50050 Montaione, Castelfalfi, Florence $$$$

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TWO-WHEELED TOUR:

le bicyc a t e Ren o rid t a c c in Lu treee h t nd e arou enad m o r p . lined walls y t i its c atop better way to bond with friends or family than sharing a trail.

Walking paths and ancient tracks form a network that makes exploring on foot easy, and several outfitters offer Tuscan tours or programs that mind the details so you can just have fun.

Vermont-based Boundless Journeys, which has lots of experience creating active itineraries throughout Europe, Asia and Latin America, offers two options in Tuscany. Combining the iconic Cinque Terre with a little-known part of northern Tuscany, its Tuscan Coast and Cinque Terre Hike follows pilgrimage routes to ancient abbeys and walled villages, with a luxurious hotel base in charming Lucca. Another combines the hill towns of Tuscany with those of neighboring Umbria, visiting Montalcino, Pienza, Assisi, Spello and the Etruscan sites of Tuscany’s Maremma region. This tour combines walking with two other things Tuscany excels at: wine and cooking.

The Via Francigena was an early pilgrimage path to Rome from northern Europe, winding from town to town through the Tuscan hills. British walking tour specialists Rambler Holidays offers eight-day trips following the route from the medieval village of Gambassi Terme to the Renaissance glories of Siena.

A bicycle allows you to cover more ground but still stay connected to the land in ways a car can never match. To cycle with your companions at your own pace, consider A Flavour of Tuscany, a self-guided tour with Inntravel. It provides four nights’ B&B lodging, bicycles, airport transfers, luggage transport, route notes and maps. You provide the pedal power.

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Bicyclists in the old, narrow streets of Lucca PHOTO: © HENRIK STOVRING | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

Galileo Galilei Airport in Pisa, Tuscany’s international airport, lies about a 40-minute drive west of Florence. Taxi prices vary by destination; reserve ahead for a rental car, the best way to tour Tuscany.

DINING

LUNASIA Sea views from the top-floor setting of this Michelin-starred restaurant add to the allure of the chef’s innovative tasting menu.

Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio 1, Viareggio $$$$–$$$$$ RISTORANTE DA PODE The beautifully restored farmhouse with its rustic beams, stone and terracotta floors provides a rustic setting for refined traditional Tuscan cuisine.

Share new skills with your traveling companions during a Tuscan vacation arranged by Flavours Holidays. Take daily classes with a professional Pilates instructor on a health and well-being week; learn to speak Italian; or polish your cooking, painting or photography skills in three-night or week-long stays that include lodging, all meals, local wine, private lessons and visits to local towns.

The ultimate luxury is renting a fully staffed villa and filling it with family and friends, planning each day as it comes and letting your personal concierge arrange activities.

That’s what Tuscany Now & More is all about, offering charmingly updated historic farmhouses with private pools, maids, cooks and concierge service. Activities for all ages can include anything from windsurfing or farm-to-table cooking classes to a Chianti wine spa treatment.

Località Sovestro 63, San Gimignano $$$–$$$$ TOSCA At this restaurant at Castello di Casole expect perfectly prepared takes on traditional dishes based on local ingredients, including truffles, wild boar and Chianina beef.

Località Querceto Casole d’Elsa, Siena $$$$

M Y L A G O S M Y W AY

CAVIAR COLLE C TIONS R I T T E N H O U S E S Q U A R E | 2 1 5 . 5 6 7. 0 7 7 0 | L A G O S . C O M

bucket list | INDIA

Finding Om in India Seek inner peace and holistic wellness on a yoga retreat. BY KRISTY ALPERT

BALANCE AND BLISS: (Left to right) group at Rishikul Yogshala, yoga instructor at Rishikul Yogshala, yoga instructors at Shreya Yoga Retreat and chefprepared food PHOTOS: © RISHIKUL YOGSHALA, © SHREYAS YOGA RETREAT

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I WAITED MY ENTIRE LIFE to be where I stood, the Taj Mahal long acting as a sort of mecca in my long list of bucket-list experiences. I expected that moment to hit me with chills, but as I stared up at its grand and imposing façade, the sun-drenched pavement warming the soles of my bare feet, I was met instead with a surprising sense of empathy.

I listened intently as my personal guide from Intrepid Travel’s Urban Adventures explained how the Taj Mahal was built as a mausoleum for Mughal emperor Shah Jahan’s third and favorite wife, with precious and semi-precious jewels adorning its white marble exterior. On the outside the palace appeared strong and full of life, a source of stability and strength in the chaotic world surrounding it, but inside it was all but empty.

Although this wasn’t my first time to India — work brought me to the bustling metropolis of Mumbai and the sunny shores of Goa in previous years — this was my first time visiting the country for my own reasons. I was here to take part in yet another bucket-list experience with a weeklong yoga retreat in the yoga capital of the world at the Rishikul Yogshala ashram in Rishikesh.

A wise yoga instructor once told me you cannot

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pour from an empty cup, using the analogy that yoga is like putting the mask on yourself before helping others around you on an airplane. “You need to take care of yourself first so you can then pour into other people’s lives,” he said. Those words inspired my journey to India, where I would be nurturing my desires to attend a yoga retreat in Rishikesh and visit the Taj Mahal in one grand trip.

Unlike many of my travels where I arrive with an empty suitcase and a shopping list of souvenirs to collect for my loved ones back home, as I stood there staring at the beautiful but empty building in front of me, I realized I had arrived in India with nothing more than a yoga mat and an empty cup, ready to be filled with experiences and adventures both on the mat and off.

Yoga retreats have increased in frequency and popularity over the past few years, a demand created by the more than 36.7 million American adults who currently practice yoga, up from the 20.4 million practicing in 2012, according to findings from Yoga Journal and Yoga Alliance. While many retreats offer unique experiences that range from trendy wine and yoga weekends in Tuscany to off-the-grid silent retreats in Mexico, nothing can

INFO TO GO

Six main gateways service international flights into India, including Bengaluru (BLR), Chennai (MAA), Delhi (DEL), Hyderabad (HYD), Kolkata (COU), Mumbai (BOM) and Kerala (COK).

The county’s national carrier, Air India, makes it easy to hop around domestically to locations like Goa, Kochi, Lucknow, Trivandrum, Kunnar and more. Many yoga retreats like Rishikul Yogshala offer a transportation option from the nearest major airport to the ashram for a small fee, but India’s train system, Indian Railways, offers another great option for navigating through the country.

compare to the authenticity and legit immersion retreat-goers experience with a yoga experience in India.

Yoga was born in India, dating back nearly 5,000 years according to archaeological findings from the Indus Valley Civilization in the northern parts of the country. The tradition was passed down orally from teacher to student for centuries until Sage Patanjali published his Yoga Sutras nearly 2,000 years ago. Patanjali’s compilation of Indian aphorisms became the philosophical basis for yoga around the world. Today the practice consists of eight limbs that include yama (self-restraint), niyama (self-observances), asana (postures), pranayama (breathing), pratyahara (withdrawal), dharana (concentration), dhyana (meditation) and samadhi (enlightenment).

All yoga retreats in India focus on these eight limbs, but the best retreat centers in the country offer a full immersion into the lifestyle and culture of yoga, delving into the realm of wholebody wellness through healthy eating, massage and personal coaching. I chose Rishikul Yogshala based on its reputation for seamlessly blending the physical and technical aspects of yoga with the more experiential sides of the practice.

The program is customized for each guest or group and lasts seven days, during which participants enjoy three Ayurvedic meals each day along with daily yoga practices in varying styles.

Also included: Ayurvedic classes, private philosophy classes, massages and excursions to nearby areas (the Himalayas, the

Ganges River, the Munni Baba Cave and more). The ashram is located within walking distance of the famous ashram where The Beatles wrote more than 30 of their songs while studying with the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in Rishikesh.

Although Rishikesh boasts one of the world’s largest clusters of ashrams, the country is rife with ashrams and retreat centers that cater to every specific sort of yogi. For luxury seekers, the Shreyas Yoga Retreat in Bangalore is second-to-none. The elegant sanctuary, set on 25 acres, accepts only 20 students per session to allow for one-on-one attention from the staff of teachers, therapists and gurus. Modern yogis love the fast WiFi, pure detox juices and stunning landscape of Goa’s Purple Valley Ashtanga Retreat, while yoga purists rave about attending a retreat at the world’s first and oldest center of yoga at The Yoga Institute of Mumbai, founded in 1918 by Shri Yogendraji.

The beauty of an Indian yoga retreat is that regardless of which one or which style you choose to attend, each offers the ultimate experience in wellness travel, combining healthy eating and physical wellness with the allure of visiting some of the world’s most remarkable landmarks and heritage sites.

As I left the Rishikul Yogshala ashram, I looked back over my pictures from my visit to the Taj Mahal, this time with a sense of gratitude. My cup was now full, and I was eager to return home and begin pouring out some of what I had gained from my experience in India.

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vel’s Intrepid Tra ures Urban Advent s on operates tour , relying six continents to on local guides give visitors offauthentic and ath the-beaten-p s tours experiences. It ad in India spre ties through 12 ci and range from ons on yoga immersi food the Ganges to h walks throug New Delhi.

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kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

Art of Healing Ease body, mind and soul in the natural goodness of the Cook Islands. BY BECCA HENSLEY BEACHSIDE BLISS:

Spa treatment on the beach at Aitutaki Lagoon PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM

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IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the only person left on Earth.

Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and fruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

a few. Not all are palatable. Noni juice, brown as tobacco but curative, tastes like rotten cheese. Besotted by the beauty of the place, I can barely keep up with this fast-moving, active man who wants to show me everything in nature’s medicine cabinet. “This is my treasure chest,” he says, beckoning to the landscape, proud of all the people he helped cure throughout the decades.

A simple, rustic place composed of 15 islands, Cook harks back to Hawai’i as we imagine it 50 years ago. A blend of Polynesian cultures, deeply recognizable as Māori (according to legend, the canoes left Rarotonga for New Zealand and other South Pacific islands centuries ago, making this the motherland of the cultures), the Cook Islands wellness traditions stem from the land. Casual and informal, more affordable than Fiji and Tahiti, the Cook Islands offer crystalline lagoons, sugary sand, stellar diving, unspoiled wilderness expanses and, possibly, the friendliest denizens on the planet. Compliment locals on what they’re wearing, and they’re likely to give it to you. Need a ride, they’ll beg you to hop in their car.

At a loss for directions? They’ll walk you there. Hungry? They’ll share their feast. On Sundays they’ll even invite you into their churches to join their glorious singing, clapping and celebrations of life. If you’re lucky, as I was, you’ll receive an elaborate flowered wreath to wear in your hair.

On Rarotonga I stay at Crown Resort & Spa, a laid-back, beachside hotel with individual cabanas. Its Spa Ariki employs local natural healers like Uncle Pa who utilize the offerings and traditions of their forefathers. “At Spa Ariki, our therapists understand that the secret to lasting beauty is not skin-deep,” says the spa director as I check in for a custom spa treatment, designed to quell my jet lag. “Our beauty packages always incorporate treatments in reflexology, acupressure, homeopathy, massage (and more),” she says. To start the treatment, I climb into a tub, made from lava rock and filled with coconut milk and flower petals, that sits amid a garden. After soaking, I am rubbed with papaya which, though soft and creamy, exfoliates and nourishes my skin. Finally, I’m treated to a lomi lomi-style massage which stretches my muscles with long strokes and infinitely revives me from head to toe.

While the modern-day health care system in the Cook Islands combines ancient ways and Western medicine, the practice of Māori medicine is widespread. Native healers, many of whom studied with elders, relieve common ailments with plants, herbs and fruit found in their gardens — from coconut oil for the hair to capsaicin peppers to alleviate the itch of a mosquito bite.

Visitors can take Uncle Pa’s herbal hike, which he leads a few days each week, to learn more about Cook Island plants and healing. But don’t forget most spas in the island nation incorporate some aspect of Cook Island native culture in their menus. At the premier Pacific Resort Aitutaki, set on lagoon-rimmed Aitutaki,

NATURE’S NURTURE:

Slices of papaya on a leaf plate (top); and Spa Ariki facials (middle) and water, sound and spiritual awakening therapy (bottom) PHOTOS: © RAFAEL BEN ARI | DREAMSTIME .COM, © SPA ARIKI

LODGING

CROWN BEACH RESORT & SPA This friendly, no-nonsense resort sitting on a beach offers kitchenettes that make it easy to enjoy longer stays. Its small spa with indigenously inspired treatments is the best in the Cook Islands.

Main Ring Road, Arorangi, Rarotonga $$$ PACIFIC RESORT AITUTAKI This Small Luxury Collection hotel, vaunting standalone, thatched-roof villas on a perfect beach and a lovely pool, is the Cook Islands’ undisputed 5-star gem.

Aitutaki $$$$ RUMOURS LUXURY VILLAS & SPA Rumours, right on the beach, offers a small collection of sleek, lavish, individual villas on what feels like a private beach.

On-site owners act as personal concierges.

Rarotonga $$$$

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ISLAND VIBE:

Warm welcome to Aitutaki (left), and hiking to Aitutaki Lagoon (bottom) PHOTOS: © RAFAEL BEN ARI | DREAMSTIME.COM

in the ely spoken id w is h s Engli cals speak , though lo s d n la Is k only Coo till, you’ll S . e g a u g n la their own orana, word: Kia e n o w o n need to k o’ or be a mean ‘Hell n a c h ic h w -bye. or a good e t lu a s a , blessing

DINING CAFÉ TUPUNA A small, chef-owned restaurant on Aitutaki, this cozy, chic place is famous for its chili lime fish served in a coconut shell, creamy cheesecake and crabbrimming seafood chowder.

Tautu Road, Aitutaki $$$ THE MOORING FISH CAFÉ Casual, friendly and dishing up the best fish sandwich you’ll ever eat, this locally owned, Lilliputian café is a Cook Island icon.

Avana Harbour near Muri Beach, Rarotonga $$ NAUTILUS RESTAURANT This beachfront restaurant in a swanky hotel has glass windows offering a panoramic view of the sea. Its fusion cuisine takes advantage of local products and the fruit of the sea.

Nautilus Resort Rarotonga, Muri, Rarotonga $$$

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Cook’s most visited island, the Tiare Spa uses spa products by Te Tika that contain authentic Cook Island botanicals. “Our staff have a good appreciation of the traditional remedies that their parents and grandparents used to re-establish wellness,” explains the Pacific Resort spa director. A few to note? Use the noni plant to swab cuts or abrasions, drink a tea created from the leaves of the mile-aminute vine for headaches, and blend onion with tamanu tree oil to relax and soothe tired muscles.

Whether you visit a spa or not, wellness and repose come naturally in the Cook Islands. Enveloped in the slow-as-molasses, openhearted culture, you’ll catch something the Polynesians call mana, or soul. Here you’ll be hugged and kissed by everyone, revel in their laughter, be unlatched by their sincerity and caring. As you begin to relax to their generous ways, you’ll be wowed as well by the beauty of a less-trammeled, thankfully undeveloped frontier. On Rarotonga or Aitutaki, where I visited, you can take a sunset cruise, try a stand-up paddleboard, visit an uninhabited island for the day, fish, snorkel and dive.

Luxury isn’t what you’re after here; rather, the Cook Islands provides a chance to connect with something a bit more authentic, to get to know real locals — the kind of people who come back from urban jobs in places like New Zealand to care for their aging parents — or folks like scientists who work for nearly nothing to save a marine species or conserve the oceanscape. It’s a place still frozen in time, where the internet is so expensive kids don’t carry phones and tourists tend to give up checking email. Sometimes that’s just what we need.

LIE FLAT ON ALL

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Learn more at aa.com/moreasia

American Airlines and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2017 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

lgbtq

THE GATHERING:

IGLTA 2016 opening party in Cape Town (top left), Cape Town IGLTA 2016 (​top right), and The Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg, Fla., host of the 2017 IGLTA reception (bottom) PHOTOS: © IGLTA, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM

Global Outreach IGLTA talks travel at its annual confab. BY MARK CHESNUT and the gala opening night reception took place at The Dalí Museum and the Mahaffey FLORIDA’S COASTAL CITY of St. Petersburg was the setting for Theater. a lively discussion of LGBTQ travel trends in May during the The convention also gave St. Petersburg/Clearwater a chance to show off its annual convention of the International Gay and Lesbian Travel gay-friendly vibe, with outings to enjoy local nightlife, shopping and dining, as well as Association. information about the annual St. Pete Pride Fest, an LGBTQ pride event that takes place The gathering attracted dozens of buyers, suppliers and in June. Visit St. Petersburg/Clearwater, the destination’s tourism organization, maintains tourism insiders from around the globe for three days of neta robust LGBTQ travel section on its website. working and education. A variety of trendThe annual event was also a time to reflect on the ing topics were at the forefront, according ‘IGLTA has expanded its reach organization’s evolution in the 21st century. “IGLTA has to John Tanzella, president and CEO, on all fronts: We have members expanded its reach on all fronts: We have members in IGLTA. “Crisis management, as it pertains more countries and in more unexpected destinations,” to the tourism industry, is a leading topic, in more countries and in more said Tanzella. “Our scope has moved beyond the original which encompasses everything from global unexpected destinations.’ business-to-business model to include consumer outreach. terrorism to anti-LGBTQ laws,” he said, We also have greatly increased our engagement with John Tanzella, president and CEO, IGLTA adding that the new U.S. administration’s mainstream brands and organizations and have created impact on inbound tourism is also a hot the IGLTA Foundation to do more for our members while simultaneously giving back to topic for IGLTA members. the LGBT community worldwide.”

This year’s event attracted big-name speakers from the travel Tanzella said IGLTA members have changed the way they approach the LGBTQ industry, including Roger Dow, president and CEO, U.S. Travel market in recent years. “There has been a move away from one-size-fits-all marketing to Association, and George Kalogridis, president, Walt Disney recognizing the great diversity in tastes and traveler types within our LGBTQ comWorld Resort. Tourism officials from Guam to Monaco were munity,” he explained. “Rather than just ‘gay travel,’ we see companies doing LGBTQ also present, and a buyer/supplier marketplace provided an tourism outreach that focuses on luxury, weddings, families, adventure, millennials or the opportunity for attendees to make new contacts. The host hotel transgender market, to name just a few.” was The Vinoy Renaissance St. Petersburg Resort & Golf Club,

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BRING LIGHT to the darkness of cancer

Photo by EricBeaubienPhotography

JORDYN

lymphoma survivor

Register to walk today: www.lightthenight.org

airport update

Bigger and Better San Francisco International Airport grows and adapts to meet changing needs. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ LOCATED 13 MILES SOUTH of The Golden City’s bustling downtown area lies San Francisco International, the largest airport in Northern California and the second-busiest in the state, after Los Angeles International Airport. With flight points throughout North America, Europe and Asia, the airport services non-stop flights to more than 46 international cities on 39 international carriers and connects nonstop with 79 cities in the United States. It is one of the largest hubs for United Airlines and the principal base of operations for Virgin America.

The airport experienced regular growth in traffic since 2004, with a 6.1 percent increase in numbers in 2016 from the previous year, having served a record-breaking 53.1 million passengers.

The airport reported a 10 percent increase in international traffic alone in 2016, with new international airlines including Iceland’s low-cost airline WOW air, Fiji Airways and Volaris.

Contributing to airport growth, United Airlines launched three new international destinations from San Francisco in 2016, including the first-ever non-stop flights to Tel Aviv (TLV) and two new cities in China, X’ian (XIY) and Hangzhou (HGH).

China Eastern also added the first non-stop service to Qingdao (TAO). With these gains, SFO now serves more cities in China than any other airport in the Americas.

As we often see with busier airports, significant growth means significant construction. Between 2020 and 2022, the airport will undergo a demolition and rebuild of the southern portion of Terminal 1, Boarding Area B and Boarding Area A. The $2.4 billion project, led by the Gensler architectural firm, will modernize the concourse and add 24 new gates. The four-phase plans ensure at least nine gates remain open throughout the process to avoid disrupting service.

In April the airport announced its selection of View Dynamic Glass for the redevelopment of Terminal 1, which will install more than 66,000 square feet of the glass to create a world-class travel experience while continuing to make strides in energy efficiency. The airport also recently opened its Request for Proposals process for 10 duty-free and luxury retail leases for the International Terminal and Terminal 1, marking exciting things on the horizon for airport dining and shopping.

In addition to terminal upgrades, in February the airport

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announced plans to repave one of its four runways, Runway 28L, one of two runways used primarily for arriving flights. The project will also install new, long-lasting LED centerline lights and ground markings, and a new taxiway and enhancements to a current taxiway will improve the runway’s operational efficiency.

Renovations and expansions aren’t the only things going on at San Francisco International. In March the airport received the top sustainability award from Acterra, a nonprofit organization in Silicon Valley dedicated to the promotion of a healthy and sustainable planet. The organization named the airport a nationally recognized sustainability leader in the aviation industry for its history of climate action and sustainability reporting.

Since 1990 the airport reduced greenhouse gas emissions from airport-controlled operations by 38 percent, reduced energy consumption by almost 11,000 megawatt-hours per year and improved 558 acres of wetlands throughout the Bay Area.

The airport’s reduction strategies include construction of the AirTrain, an electric-powered light rail system that eliminated more than 600 daily bus trips to shuttle passengers between terminals; programs and incentives to encourage airport employees to take public transit to work; and the creation of a Clean Vehicle Policy to promote adoption and deployment of energy-efficient vehicles throughout the airport.

COMING AND GOING:

San Francisco International Airport’s busy arrival and departure levels PHOTO: © JACK YACO | DREAMSTIME .COM

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT flysfo.com

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health

Best Defense Protect babies, children and yourself from the Zika virus. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, MSN, RN, CCRN WHILE BABIES AND CHILDREN can be infected with Zika through the bites of two types of mosquitoes, no cases of Zika have been reported as a result of breastfeeding. Because of the benefits, mothers are encouraged to breastfeed even in areas where Zika virus is found.

Common symptoms of Zika include fever, rash, joint pain and red eyes. Symptoms usually go away within a few days to a week. Many people infected with Zika don’t have symptoms.

There is no vaccine or medication for the illness.

Birth defects including microcephaly and other problems have been reported in babies born to women infected with Zika. The Zika virus can pass from a woman to her fetus during pregnancy or around the time of birth. The Centers for Disease Control are studying how Zika virus affects pregnancies.

Brazil has seen a large increase in cases of Zika since May 2015. During this outbreak, Brazilian officials reported areas with Zika experienced an increase in the number of babies born with microcephaly, a condition in which a baby’s head is smaller than expected when compared to babies of the same sex and age. Recently, the CDC concluded Zika virus infection during pregnancy can cause microcephaly and other severe fetal brain defects.

Pregnancy loss and other pregnancy problems have been reported in women infected with Zika during pregnancy. Zika has been linked with birth defects including eye defects, hearing loss and impaired growth. Some babies infected with Zika before birth may not be born with microcephaly but later experience slowed head growth and develop microcephaly after birth.

However, not all babies whose mothers had Zika during pregnancy are born with health problems. Researchers are working to better understand how common it is for Zika infection

during pregnancy to cause problems. Infection with the virus at later times, including around the time of birth or in early childhood, has not been linked to microcephaly.

Microcephaly happens for many reasons, such as genetic conditions, certain infections and toxins. If your child has microcephaly, your health care provider will look for the underlying reason. For about half the children with microcephaly, however, the cause is never discovered.

If you have a child with microcephaly, it is unlikely it resulted from Zika if you did not travel during pregnancy to an area with Zika. Although head size reflects brain size, it does not always predict short- or long-term health effects. While some children with microcephaly have seizures, vision or hearing problems and developmental disabilities, others do not experience any health problems.

We do not know how likely it is for Zika to pass from a woman to her fetus during pregnancy or around the time of birth. We do not know whether the timing of the woman’s Zika infection during pregnancy or the severity of her symptoms affect her pregnancy. We do not know the long-term health outcomes for infants and children with Zika infection.

The CDC are developing laboratory tests to diagnose Zika quickly. They study the link between Zika and microcephaly and other developmental delays and update the U.S. Zika Pregnancy Registry daily. The CDC also test different mosquito species to find out whether they carry Zika and advise U.S. travelers returning from areas with outbreaks and support U.S. states and territories already affected by Zika.

Finally, the CDC prepare states and Americans with prevention actions in advance of mosquito season.

As parents you can prevent mosquito bites on

children. Dress your child in clothing that covers arms and legs. Cover crib, stroller and baby carrier with mosquito netting. Use insect repellent as directed. Do not use on babies younger than 2 months, and do not use products containing oil of lemon eucalyptus or paramenthanediol on children younger than 3 years. Do not apply repellent on a child’s hands, eyes, mouth or irritated or broken skin. Never spray repellent directly on a child’s face; instead, spray it on your hands and apply sparingly, avoiding the eyes and mouth. Control mosquitoes inside and outside your home.

If your child has symptoms, seek medical attention and inform your health care provider if your child has traveled or lived in an area with Zika. Fever of 100.4 degrees or higher in a baby younger than 2 months always requires a medical evaluation.

For protection from Zika when traveling, use EPA-registered insect repellent containing DEET, picaridin, IR3535, oil of lemon eucalyptus or paramenthane-diol, or 2-undecanone. Do not spray repellent under clothing. If you use sunscreen, apply sunscreen first and insect repellent second. Used as directed, these repellents are safe and effective for pregnant and breastfeeding women. Spray clothing and gear with permethrin; follow the directions on the bottle and reapply as directed. Do not spray it on your skin.

If your room is not well-screened and airconditioned, use a bed net when sleeping. Mosquitoes can live indoors and bite at any time, day or night. Bring condoms for protection against pregnancy. Zika can be passed through sex; use condoms during and after travel to protect yourself and your partner. If you are pregnant, use condoms for the rest of your pregnancy. Not having sex eliminates the risk of getting Zika through intercourse.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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past & present

On Dec. 18, 1893, the first wing of Fairmont Le Château Frontenac was inaugurated. Christened the Riverview Wing, it had 170 rooms — 93 with bathrooms and fireplaces, remarkable luxuries at the time.

Over the years, many expansion projects fashioned the hotel as it looks today, with 618 rooms and a central tower reaching to the 18th floor (bottom photos). In 2014, a massive renovation project worth more than $75 million strengthened the Château’s positioning as one of the best hotels in the world.

Renovated from top to bottom, the Château now offers a mix of rich historical charm and a modern touch, perfectly connecting the past to a brilliant future.

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PHOTOS: © FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU FRONTENAC

Fairmont Le Château Frontenac