Global Traveler March 2017

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BUENOS AIRES p. 62 COSTA RICA p. 72 FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA p. 68 LOS ANGELES p. 64 MEXICO CITY p. 54 MUNICH p. 66 SAN DIEGO p. 60

March 2017

SEASIDE VIBE TURKEY’S BLACK SEA COAST p. 74



letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

AN INSIDE LOOK SOME OF THE EARLIEST known caricatures are found in Leonardo da Vinci’s works, and the art form enjoyed its first successes in aristocratic societies in France and Italy. While the caricature on this page, featuring Richard T. Evans, senior vice president, and myself isn’t quite as historic, it had been ages since I’d last sat for a caricature. In mid-January we attended the Inside Access from Chase event at City Winery in New York City, held to celebrate the company’s 2016 GT Tested Reader Survey award win for Best Credit Card Special Events. Based SKETCHED: Caricature of Richard T. Evans and Kimberly Krol on the turnout, star power and endless PHOTO: © GLOBAL TRAVELER food and entertainment on display at the event, one thing is certain: That title is no exaggeration. Speaking of winners, catch an inside glimpse at our 2016 GT Tested Reader Survey awards event, held at The Peninsula Beverly Hills in December 2016, on page 36. Revel in the fun as we recap all the winners from our own star-studded celebration. We kick off our annual travel auction in this issue. Turn to page 46 for all the amazing travel experiences up for grabs from March 1 to May 1, with 100 percent of the profits benefitting The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society, a worthwhile cause near and dear to our hearts here at Global Traveler. We set off around the globe in this issue, visiting Kuala Lumpur, Mexico City, San Diego, Buenos Aires, Los Angeles, Munich, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Costa Rica and Turkey’s Black Sea Coast. Join us next month when we debut GT’s first-ever themed issue: April 2017 marks our Green Issue, with each article bringing you more information on green, eco-friendly initiatives around the globe. In June and August, we roll out our Wellness Issue and our Wine Issue, respectively. We hope you continue to enjoy the journey with us!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT PATRICK T. COOPER EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER AKHIL KALEPU ALLIE MOORE TERRY A. SPRUNGER

SUSAN B. BARNES RON BERNTHAL DEBRA BOKUR ELLEN CLARK JACK GUY SHARON KING HOGE MICHELLE LYN ALLIE MOORE RICHARD NEWTON

ete bios, For compl a.com travelerus al visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

hal Ron Bernt while , ts es gg su City, you in Mexico and join ke bi a rent lorful co of a the se ing am re st riders dle id m e th down de la of Paseo a Reforma, n downtow beautiful ed os cl d ar boulev obiles to autom day. every Sun

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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MARCH 2017

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letter from the publisher

®

GREAT EATS IT IS TIME FOR YOU to cast your votes for the 14th annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards! The recap of our 13th annual event, held last December at The Peninsula Beverly Hills, marking the sixth such event at the hotel, is in this issue. We also gear up for the Leisure Lifestyle Awards, to be held at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills on May 18. These awards focus on cruise lines, tourism boards and luxury goods. After the Leisure Lifestyle Awards, our sister publication trazeetravel.com will present UP AND AWAY: Francis X. Gallagher enjoying some time in Miami The Trazees awards in Boston. MillenPHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER nials, who fulfill their passion for travel in every aspect of their lives, vote on these awards. Now that things have settled down in our nation’s capital — well, for a while — I want to share a restaurant recommendation. You can’t get more into the political scene then to secure a window table overlooking the Capitol at Charlie Palmer’s. This steakhouse mainstay is known as the place where politics happen; many a deal has been made at Palmer’s, and they have the service and cuisine to go along with it. Try the duo of beef tartare, combining steak tartare with beef carpaccio — superb! I followed this with a cowboy bone-in ribeye, topped off with cheesecake. My bride chose the organic beets to start — they were delicious — and followed with Chesapeake Bay wild striped bass that was out of this world. The bar scene is cool, just everything you want in Washington, all wrapped up in one. Hobnob with lobbyists, senators and everyone and everything that makes this country tick — it all happens here! Michael Irving, general manager, has a wealth of information about D.C. Nadine Brown, wine director, suggested a Peter Franus Zinfandel, Napa Valley 2013, which went well with everything. In the last month, I hit Atlanta and Miami and found reaching these markets early in the year was fruitful. In Miami we stayed at the newly opened ME Miami. We chatted with Ernesto Luna, general manager, who just finished a long stint at Sol Meliá’s Cancún property. The Miami hotel is lovely and has an enchanting rooftop, complete with a lap pool overlooking the city and great views. We enjoyed a terrific steak dinner at STK, which also has an exciting bar scene. In Atlanta, an in-and-out trip, we had a fine dinner at Manchester Arms, a British-style pub run by Americans; they do one heck of a smoked pork chop. Frankly, I never saw anything as big — it was more like a tender ham — and they told us they smoke it right in the backyard. If you read my blog, you know I am a fan of Spondivics near the airport. Open ’til 4 a.m., it is a mix of passengers and those who call ATL their place of business, with a very welcoming team. What’s next? Well, I wrote this on a flight to FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO LAX for meetings, with a 30-hour turnaround time. I have a few other ideas up my sleeve for the next few months. CONNECT WITH GT Check out GT’s Pinterest boards at pinterest.com/globaltraveler Follow GT on Instagram @globaltravelermag

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ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales KIMBERLY LAGUEUX tel 267 364 5811 ext. 205 | kimberly.lagueux@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Director BANU YILMAZ tel 215 301 6869 | banu.yilmaz@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEVEN BRIGHT tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 steven.bright@globaltravelerusa.com Office Manager ANGELIQUE PLATAS tel 267 364 5811 ext 210 | angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising and Editorial Coordinator JENNA PAYESKO tel 267 364 5811 ext 212 | jenna.payesko@globaltravelerusa.com Intern ANDREW RISCH intern@globaltravelerusa.com

INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES Egypt CARMEN DOYLE and HASSAN SHEHAB | tel 61 0 403866188 | carmen.doyle@afrozinternational.com hassan.shehab@afrozinternational.com France, The Netherlands JEREMY PRADERIO-REGIE | tel 09 54 20 09 50 | cell 06 07 96 54 15 | j.praderio@pema-group.com Germany MICHAELA JUSTI | tel 49 69 56 02 01 21 | fax 49 69 56 02 01 23 | cell 49 171 20 29 502 justi@mediasalescompany.de India FAREDOON KUKA | tel 91 22 2925 3735 | cell 91 98200 85045 | kuka@rmamedia.com Japan YOSHIZUMI MIYAKE, MEDIAHOUSE INC. | tel 3 3222 7811 | fax 3 3234 1140 miyake@mediahs.com AUDREY CHEONG | tel 60 3 7729 6923 | fax 60 3 7729 7115 | cell 60 16 270 9420 audrey.cheong@publicitas.com Mexico FERNANDO PALACIOS OAXACA | tel 55 36007718 | cell 0115215555098734 fernando.palacios@borderlinemx.com Scandinavia WILL NICHOLSON | tel 46 7 68 94 86 02 | will@vision-network.eu South Africa MARGIE OGILVY | tel 27 44 384 0800 | ogilvy@mweb.co.za South Korea JEFF HWANG | tel 82 31 702 7782 | cell 82 10 3498 9117 | gng@gngcom.co.kr Spain LUIS ANDRADE | tel 34 91 788 2001 | fax 34 91 395 6396 | landrade@luisandrade.com Thailand STEVEN FONG | tel 662 651 9273 | fax 662 651 9278 | steven.fong@publicitas.com Turkey GURKAN KINACI | tel 90 212 559 9670 | fax 90 212 661 7660 | cell 90 532 213 0390 gurkan@divamed.net United Kingdom JOANNA PERCY | tel 44 207 286 6048 | cell 44 778 556 3050 | joanna@jpmediasales.com Vietnam, Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore PEGGY THAY | tel 65 6836 2272 ext 218; 65 9664 4662 | peggy.thay@publicitas.com

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contents

March 2017

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FEATURES 36 A Gala Evening Global Traveler celebrates the 2016 GT Tested Reader Survey award winners from the heart of Beverly Hills.

50 Ready, Willing and Able Kuala Lumpur gears up for gatherings of all sizes. BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

54 Destination One: Mexico City New architecture and design help Mexico City attract more fun and leisure visitors. andbusiness

46 Silent Auction 2017 Global Traveler opens nce inathe F ’s lively a n bidding in its annual auction i h C n in & . San Diego eigLeukemia it yStateside: to benefitrThe rd c60 New developments energize seaboa Lymphoma Society. economic optimism in San Diego.

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62 9–5: Buenos Aires Entertain clients to the Latin beat of Buenos Aires.

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

March 2017

64 After 5: Los Angeles Go where the action is in the entertainment capital.

BUENOS AIRES p. 62 COSTA RICA p. 72 FUILI-VENEZIA GUILAI p. 68 LOS ANGELES p. 64 MEXICO CITY p. 54 MUNICH p. 66 SAN DIEGO p. 60

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SEASIDE VIBE TURKEY’S BLACK SEA COAST p. 74

COVER PHOTO: AMASRA RESORT TOWN, BLACK SEA COAST, TURKEY PHOTO: © XANTANA | DREAMSTIME.COM

PHOTOS: © NICOLAS BATES, © MEXICO CITY TOURISM, © STONE BREWING, © ELLEN CLARK

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contents

March 2017 74

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CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

24 Technology 25 Wine & Spirits 26 Spoils 28 Spas 30 Golf 32 Chefs 34 Cruising 78 LGBTQ 81 Health

10 Mail Call 13 News 16 Reviews 19 One on One Hyatt Hotels Corp. 22 One on One Paul Gauguin Cruises 80 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

66 Neighborhoods: Munich Get to know this historic city’s laid-back Maxvorstadt area. 68 Friends & Family: Friuli-Venezia Giulia Wine and dine your way through Italy’s under-the-radar region. 72 Bucket List: Costa Rica Witness the migratory movements of sea turtles in Costa Rica. 74 Kicking Back: Turkey’s Black Sea Coast Look to the breezy beaches, coves and villages of Turkey’s Black Sea coast.

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Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2017 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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LIFESTYLE

PHOTOS: © XANTANA | DREAMSTIME.COM , © JARNOGZ | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PATEK,

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mail call

JANUARY Q&A: NICOLE QUASTÉ, ASSISTANT EDITOR

Q&A WITH KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

In the January issue our assistant editor, Nicole Quasté, talked about her memorable visit to Prague and asked readers: Have you traveled to Prague? What were some of the highlights of your trip? I’ve traveled to Prague four times now and discover new things each time. On my most recent trip, I ventured to Český Krumlov, a small Gothic city with some of the most beautiful buildings and cathedrals I’ve ever seen. There are also some great historic breweries outside of Prague’s city limits definitely worth a daytrip. ALLEN ADRIAN, Atlanta, Ga. I’m interested in military history, so I thought Golden Lane in Prague Castle was pretty incredible. They did such a great job preserving the original weaponry and architecture of the fortresses and lookouts. There’s so much history in Prague. TOM CONNELL, New York, N.Y.

CURRENT STATE OF HOTEL IN-ROOM TECHNOLOGY In the Jan. 11 issue of eFlyer USA we talked about the current state of hotel technology. We asked: What technologies would you like to see more hotels incorporate? Do you think these technology upgrades are necessary? How does technology play into your guest experience at a hotel?

This issue kicks off our annual charity travel auction to benefit The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. As voluntourism initiatives remain popular worldwide and auctions tout enticing travel offers, travelers often find a way to merge vacations with charitable efforts. How do you combine the two? What types of voluntourism and charity travel have you participated in? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

Technology upgrades are absolutely necessary. I don’t believe the upgrades should be at the expense of personto-person communication and service, but for frequent travelers these technology offerings aren’t a luxury but a necessity. If I’m traveling for work, as I am most of the year, I wouldn’t consider staying at a hotel that does not offer free WiFi, though this isn’t something I’ve experienced in quite some time. Do I need blinds that go up and down at the touch of an iPhone button? No, but I certainly appreciate the streaming capability many hotels now offer, and the digital keycard is always a nice touch. DANIEL SEFTON, via email

RETHINKING THE AIRLINE PASSENGER EXPERIENCE In the Jan. 18 issue of eFlyer USA we talked about the concept of

customizable cabin configurations. We asked: What are your thoughts on modular aircraft cabins? Do you think this is a practical program that would improve overall airline experience?

low, according to the Department of Transportation. We asked: Have you noticed any significant improvements in airline cancelations, timeliness or baggage handling in recent months?

I do not like customized configuration based on financial status. Although there is tiered seating, the plane amenities should be shared by all passengers. If they want, airlines can have a plane with first and business class only so the coach passengers do not have to subsidize the premium customers.

While I still often experience some sort of delay on domestic and international flights, I noticed flight cancelations seem to be low. It’s been more than a year since I’ve had a flight canceled, and I’m a frequent flyer, so it’s a welcome improvement.

JOHN V. MATHEW, via email

Unfortunately, my bag was recently lost on a flight to Newark, but the airline was helpful. I had it back the same day I landed, and my checked-bag fee was returned. These things do happen, but I agree they seem to happen less often than they used to.

FLIGHT CANCELATIONS, MISHANDLED BAGGAGE AT ALL-TIME LOW In the Jan. 24 issue of eFlyer USA we talked about how baggage mishandling and delayed or canceled flights are at an all-time

KENNETH KEES, via email

ELLA MORGAN, via email

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes pod of dolphins lapping up the last few hours on to be a clearly focused, intensely I WAS MILES OFF THE coast of India in a of sunshine before the setting sun started to small wooden fishing boat on the Arabian flavored, bright and satisfying cool the water’s surface for the night. Sea when I first got the feeling we were being wine. Those happy dolphins annually swim followed. There is a suggestion of long distances to make it to the peaceful Manned by a shirtless captain and a crew sweet mint and an evocation shores of Goa, but they’re of two local fishermen of orange and peach in Finca not the only ones to discover Goa is the beach from Goa, our boat La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, the magic of this remarkable was stocked only with destination of choice destination. followed by a relatively full body Each year nearly tiny hooks wound and excellent balance. Altogether a for many affluent 53,000 visitors make the trip around wooden planks Unwind with a little by thinly weighted line to Goa to soak in the sun, pleasing, inviting wine. travelers looking to sand and sumptuous lifestyle Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) (the traditional “fishing coastal calm in Goa. unwind and let loose this pint-sized Indian state is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a rod” in Goa) and two provides. BY KRISTY ALPERT typical Torrontés floral flavor with pearcoolers — one filled while in India. Goa is the beach destinawith fresh catches of and peach overtones and a gentle reminder tion of choice for many affluthe day and the other of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly ent travelers looking to unwind and let loose empty, having been slowly depleted of iceharmonious wine. while in India. The state sits about midway cold Kingfisher beers as the day went on. The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) Apparently I wasn’t the only one who down India’s southwestern coastline between combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes Maharashtra to the north and Karnataka sensed the followers, and as the captain and a fresh lemony acidity with a traceslowed of the boat’s low-powered engine to a to the east and south; and although it is the smallest state in the country, it is one of the honey and floral tones. halt, our small crew froze and grew silent as richest states in India. theripe boat was soon surrounded by a playful Following its aroma of fresh flowers and fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 74 globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

State of Bliss

www.globaltravelerusa.com

DAY’S END:

Fishing boats on a Goa beach at sunset PHOTO: © MARINA PISSAROVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AN

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

CONNECT WITH GT GT is more than just a magazine.

The new GT ap

If you have a computer or smartphone, you can connect with GT. Editor’s Note: We regret an error in the GT Tested review of Jumeirah Emirates Towers in the January issue. The photos included in this article were from Jumeirah at Etihad Towers in Abu Dhabi. Please enjoy these photos of Jumeirah Emirates Towers in Dubai.

MOBILE OPPORTUNITY

STRATEGY FOR SUCCESS

Holly Riddle wrote an interesting article on the opportunities smartphones present for airports. At first, I wasn’t the biggest advocate for airports’ push for all things digital. I thought it was unnecessary, and I clung to my printed boarding pass until I took a new job that required far more travel than my previous one. I’ve come to rely on my phone at the airport. I love the real-time updates airlines and airports provide, and I can’t see a reason to ever print a boarding pass again. Perhaps these airport and airline apps are intended to increase revenue, but the conveniences they offer are well worth it.

It’s great to see destinations such as Puerto Rico pushing through the negative effects from things they can’t control. Susan Finch’s article did a great job of showcasing the exciting new things the country [sic] is offering, despite the recent Zika threat. Puerto Rico is beautiful, and I’ve always enjoyed my visits there.

GARETTE KOWALSKI, Charlotte, N.C.

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NATHALIE RUTHI, Toledo, Ohio

A PERSONAL PATH Betsa Marsh’s Bucket List story was incredible. What a journey! Pilgrimages are things you hear about and rarely think to do, but this trip along the Camino de Santiago sounds life-changing. I’ll certainly be reevaluating my travel bucket list. I knew someone who did

now availa

a pilgrimage to Lourdes, in France. That might make for an interesting bucket list addition! ROSALYNN LERSH, Denver, Colo.

PAST & PRESENT: LUFTHANSA I love the new Past & Present section. It’s great being able to see these hotels and airlines in their earlier days. The 1926 photo of Lufthansa’s onboard service is amazing. I never would have envisioned an aircraft to look like that. I’d love to see before and after shots of some popular tourist destinations as well: the Statue of Liberty, Central Park, the Eiffel Tower and the like. LINDA BIRGIT, Seattle, Wash.

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Available for iPhone and iPad, the GT app lets you search archives, read the current issue, bookmark favorites With theDownload new GT app, be able to read Gl and more. the you appwill today anywhere business takes you, right on your i from the Appyour Store.

globaltravelerusa.com Visit our website to access past and present articles, reports, guides, hot travel links and deals, video interviews and forms for subscribing to the magazine and our eFlyer newsletters.

Availa at the

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Have you checked out our Global Traveler blogs recently? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from the top spas in the Caribbean to business travel in Atlanta.

globaltravelerusa.com/blog

PARTICIPATE IN VOTING Visit our website to vote for your favorites in the 2017 GT Tested Reader Survey.

globaltravelerusa.com/gt-testedawards-ballot

PHOTOS: © JUMEIRAH GROUP

JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS


news

Charter a Private Jet with JetSmarter App

PHOTOS: © SAILO, © JETSMARTER, © HONGQI ZHANG (AKA MICHAEL ZHANG) | DREAMSTIME.COM

VISIT CUBA BY YACHT Since Cuba reopened its borders and ports to American travelers, visitors from the north have been jumping at the chance to visit the island nation that was off limits for more than half a century. A handful of airlines offer flights to Cuba, but luxury travelers can arrive in style aboard a 103-foot yacht with Sailo. For $140,000, eight guests can embark upon a 14-day journey from Florida to the port in Varadero, Cuba. The price tag does not disappoint, as the yacht features an onboard pool, grill, waterslide and full bar, as well as jet skis and paddle boards to enjoy during periodic stops. Eight guests sleep comfortably in four private cabins with first-class service throughout the entire 90-mile trip. Find a list of Sailo’s private yacht charters on its website, including ventures from New York, Miami, the British Virgin Islands and various locations in Europe. sailo.com

WANT MORE NEWS ON THE GO? SIGN UP FOR GT NEWSLETTERS Global Traveler’s weekly newsletters keep you up to date with info on the go. Sign up for newsletters at globaltravelerusa.com/newsletter.

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Requesting the use of a private jet is now just a few smartphone swipes away thanks to JetSmarter. The mobile app allows travelers who are willing to pay the initiation fee of $3,500 and an annual fee of $11,500 to charter a private jet, a service that comes with a fee itself. JetSmarter’s on-demand service — which currently serves 6,700 members — is ideal for last-minute travelers, but the startup company also offers free scheduled flights for its subscribing members. By the end of 2017 the predominantly domestic service will expand its offerings to include 80 new routes to South America, Asia and Africa. jetsmarter.com

United Airlines to Charge for Overhead Bins

As budget airlines become more attractive to frequent travelers, the nation’s mainstream airlines search for ways to cut costs in order to compete with the low prices of their competitors. United Airlines made the move to drop its airfares but not without a few sacrifices on behalf of the traveler. Passengers in United’s new basic economy class may no longer be able to use the overhead bins for storage without paying a fee. If economy guests want to travel with more than one small piece of hand luggage to be stowed under the seat in front of them, they will either have to pay to check it or pay for a spot in the overhead bins. This surprising removal of a previously included benefit may shock travelers but may also foreshadow á la carte pricing for major airlines. united.com

MARCH 2017

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news The Freehand Debuts in L.A.

The popular Freehand Hotel collection is moving west, opening a Los Angeles location this month. Situated in downtown L.A. in the historic Commercial Exchange Building (erected in the 1920s), the fully renovated hotel will feature 167 private rooms and 59 shared rooms, appealing to both solo travelers and groups. Relax on the roof deck with a cocktail prepared by the geniuses behind the hotel bar, Broken Shaker, or opt for a proper afternoon tea in the lobby at Rudolph’s Bar & Tea. freehandhotels.com

Norwegian Introduces Ireland–U.S. Service

norwegian.com

DOT Proposes Advanced Notice for In-Flight Cellphone Use With the increasing capability to use WiFi in flight, some passengers enjoy the freedom to stay connected on mobile devices at 30,000 feet. However, this advancing technology also enables travelers to use phones for voice calls, potentially disturbing other passengers. In response, the Department of Transportation issued a proposal to airlines

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that will require them to inform passengers whether fellow travelers will be able to make phone calls using WiFi connections. If approved, travelers would be informed before they book their tickets, preparing them for chatty seat neighbors. Outside of this proposal, the DOT also is considering ways to ban calls on all flights and is accepting consumer comments on its website. transportation.gov

South Korea Launches High-Speed Rail

South Korea’s national railway system, Korail, will soon see a bit of competition in the form of a less expensive high-speed alternative. Beginning late last year, Supreme Railways began to offer cheaper, faster train service throughout the nation, moving the Asian country’s rail travel sector into the future. The price of economy seats aboard Supreme Railways starts at $44, while Korail’s economy seats cost approximately $50. Once on board, passengers can relax in ergonomically efficient seats, charge their devices in personal power outlets and enjoy meals on folding tray tables. Meal and beverage services are only available for first-class passengers.

Las Alcobas Resort Opens in Napa Valley

Spa vacations at or near wineries are booming in Napa Valley, where Las Alcobas Resort, a Luxury Collection Hotel, opened in January. The property’s 68 private rooms and suites start at a cool $695 per night but include access to the full-service ATRIO

Spa, steam room, yoga and fitness room and outdoor heated pool. Most guestrooms feature views of the surrounding vineyards of Beringer, Charles Krug, Freemark Abbey and Markham wineries. Chef Chris Cosentino serves California cuisine at Acacia House Restaurant. lasalcobasnapavalley.com

PHOTOS: © FEDERICA VIOLIN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © NORWEGIAN AIRLINES, © YOORAN PARK | DREAMSTIME.COM

In late 2016 discount airline Norwegian Airlines was approved to offer flights from Cork Airport in Ireland to Boston (BOS), the first transAtlantic route from the Irish city to the United States. Irish residents are accustomed to relying on other discount airlines to get around, such as RyanAir and easyJet, and having to fly through Dublin (DUB) or Shannon (SNN) to visit the States. Now they will be able to fly from Cork at a reasonable fare, which also provides more competition for mainstream airlines. Aer Lingus currently operates three daily flights from Dublin to Boston, highlighting clear interest in the route for both the Irish and Americans.


deals & rewards Yelp Launches Cash-Back Rewards

Popular search engine Yelp has been used for years as a go-to portal for both locals and visitors to browse their immediate area’s public services including restaurants, bars, hotels and shops. User reviews help guide Yelpers to find the best possible establishment or service to meet their needs. The user-fueled website now plans to reward members in the way of cold,

PHOTOS: © PLAZA PREMIUM GROUP/ PLAZA PREMIUM LOUNGE MANAGEMENT LIMITED, © YELP.COM, © RITZ-CARLTON REWARDS CARD FROM JPMORGAN, © SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Earn Rewards at Airport Lounges

A routine visit to an airport lounge before a long-haul flight may soon come with a bevy of lounge rewards. Plaza Premium Group encompasses more than 35 airport lounges that allow free entry to travelers who carry premium credit cards. The group recently launched a loyalty program called Arrture to reward members who visit select airport lounges in the way of free future entry and in-lounge discounts. After 20 lounge visits, Arrture members will receive one free lounge visit. Priority cardholders can donate this free visit to a friend or family member if they are already able to access lounges without having to pay an entrance fee. Arrture members also receive 15 percent off lounge entries that require an entrance fee, as well as a 15 percent discount on in-lounge services like spa visits. Choose from participating airport lounges in Asia, the Middle East, the United Kingdom and Canada.

hard cash. Yelpers who register for the incentive program on the site and connect a credit or debit card can then use the card at a participating business and receive up to 10 percent cash back to the card. This new incentive will apply to a limited number of establishments throughout the United States, the number of which will grow pending the success of the program. The reward only applies to in-person purchases and does not apply to online or delivery orders. yelp.com

arrture.com

Ritz-Carlton Visa Infinite Status

Travelers who carry The Ritz-Carlton Rewards Credit Card from JPMorgan can receive certain travel benefits not many cardholders know about: The Chase card doubles as a Visa Infinite card. As one of only two U.S. cards with this designation, Visa Infinite status provides cardholders with

discounts of up to $100 on domestic, round-trip flights (in economy seating only) for a minimum of two people; reimbursement for the TSA Global Entry application fee (a value of $100); substantial discounts on car rentals through Avis, National and Silvercar; and various accommodation benefits such as automatic upgrades at properties part of the Visa Signature Luxury Hotel Collection (more than 900 properties worldwide). Cardholders can also benefit from a variety of travel and rental car insurance policies, ensuring coverage for cancelations, lost luggage and even some flight delays. creditcards.chase.com/credit-cards/ ritz-carlton-rewards

Saks Gift Card from Fairmont Chicago

Guests who book a room at Fairmont Chicago, Millennium Park through Dec. 30 will receive a $100 gift card to Saks Fifth Avenue. The reward is available for each night spent at the property, with rates for this promotion starting at $199 per room. The gift card can be used at the Saks Fifth Avenue department store on Michigan Avenue. fairmont.com/chicago

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GT tested

AIR INDIA | EXECUTIVE CLASS

Newark (EWR) to London (LHR)

Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Fanfare in the airport for Air India’s inaugural Boeing 787 service from Newark (EWR) to Ahmedabad (AMD) via London (LHR) made the experience more exciting.

On the Ground: I arrived at the airport a bit early, as I expected a celebration at check-in: I was preparing to take off on the first flight of Air India’s new service from Newark (EWR) to Ahmedabad (AMD) via London (LHR), also the first U.S. Dreamliner service for the airline. The step and repeat, journalists, balloons, candy and Air India mascot met my expectations. After a quick check-in at the dedicated business-class counter, a friendly Air India employee personally escorted me through security and to the door of the lounge.

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and feel the buzz of enthusiasm for the inaugural flight. In-Flight: As the Executive Class was not full, I switched my aisle seat for a window. The business-class cabin was bright and, with the reconfigured overhead bins of the 787, felt even roomier than normal premium cabins. As we reached cruising altitude, I settled in to watch movies. I ate a little bit quickly; the flight was overnight and I wanted to reach London well-rested, as I would have one free afternoon in the city before returning home. The comfortable seats did the trick, and I was able to sleep peacefully for most of the flight. Welcome beverages, comforters, pajamas and amenity kits were all passed out before take-off.

◆ The flight also marked my first time (finally!) experiencing the Boeing 787 Dreamliner. ◆ On board, business-class flight attendants gave each passenger a small gift to commemorate the experience. Air India airindia.in

PHOTOS: © AIR INDIA, © KIMBERLY KROL

Pre-Flight: Air India Executive Class passengers at Newark Liberty International Airport are allowed access to the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse pre-flight. In the darkened, quiet lounge I found a corner on the cushioned banquette to settle in and charge up before my late-evening trans-Atlantic flight. I ordered one of the suggested signature cocktails and a bowl of noodle soup, both of which I enjoyed while catching up on a few last-minute emails and text messages. I’m always too anxious to wait for boarding calls, instead opting to head out at a time I feel comfortable with, never being sure if I will want to shop on the way to the gate. I navigated the terminal to find boarding slightly delayed and a huge crowd of passengers waiting at the gate. It was exciting, however, to see the ribbon cutting

◆ On a personal note, the milestone for Air India was a bit of a milestone for me: Nearly nine years ago, I took my first trip for GT on Air India’s inaugural non-stop between New York (JFK) and Mumbai (BOM).


GT tested

THE RITZ-CARLTON SARASOTA Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

PHOTOS: © RITZ-CARLTON, © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

◆ Enjoy the yummy sushi at Jack Dusty.

Arrival/Check-In: We had been touring South Florida for several days, visiting Ritz-Carlton properties in Miami Beach and Naples before arriving in Sarasota. The hotel sits by the water and offers a great location for venturing to Siesta Key or to the local restaurant scene, which is progressive and chock-full of choices. We valet-parked our car and came into the lobby for a swift registration. We were slightly early and a little hungry, so we enjoyed a light lunch at Jack Dusty in the lobby area.

upholstery. Two “beachy” nightstands flanked the kingsized bed, and on the far right stood a much-appreciated vanity. The wall opposite the bed held a dresser with a big, flat-screen TV. In the large, white marble bathroom a lovely separate shower with strong water pressure accompanied a large soaking tub. The bathrooms also featured terrific amenities including Asprey shampoo, conditioner and lotions and items you can always use such as nail files, cotton swabs and cotton balls.

Guest Quarters: Our suite provided just what the doctor ordered. Although it lacked a spectacular waterfront view, it offered plenty of space to stretch out and relax. As we spent our final three nights of the trip here, having a little extra room was a treat. From the front door of the suite a short hallway led to a small but welcome powder room on the right. It is nice when two people share a room to have a second bathroom while getting ready to go out. The hallway led to a large room with a sofa, coffee table, an elegant glass-topped table for dining or working (this became my office) and a big-screen TV. On the far side, two large sliding doors opened to a narrow but long patio with chairs. The room included a Nespresso machine I used every morning. The large bedroom featured light and white fabrics and

Services/Amenities: Is it any wonder Ritz-Carlton wins the GT Tested Reader Survey award for Best Club Floor? Every evening after a tiring day out, we relaxed in the Club for cocktail hour and chatted with the friendly staff. The Club served as a launching pad for securing restaurant reservations and also served breakfast. The team was extremely helpful with my business needs including sending faxes, scanning documents and even having one notarized by the general manager’s assistant (above and beyond the call of duty). If you travel and have legal documents to file, it is nearly impossible to get a notary without disrupting your schedule. This was a real plus. We appreciated a beach- and golf-related amenity in the room made of various chocolates (milk, dark and white) — a real work of art.

◆ I enjoyed the modern art sculptures that were part of the room décor. ◆ The Ritz-Carlton Sarasota Club Floor rates as my all-time favorite. The Ritz-Carlton Sarasota 1111 Ritz Carlton Drive Sarasota, FL 34236 tel 941 309 2000 ritzcarlton.com

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GT tested

PARK HYATT CHICAGO Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Guest Quarters: Two guestroom features that stood out: my view of the Water Tower and out to Lake Michigan and the extremely comfortable king-sized bed. Nothing better than a room with a view and a good night’s sleep. Throughout the hotel, the décor is modern and clean. I did find the elevators a bit slow throughout the stay, and they are keycard-access elevators. Upon entering the room, one finds the spacious bathroom to the right, offering a separate tub and shower, a water closet and dual sinks. Also spacious, the bedroom boasted the bed, flanked by two end tables, with a flat-screen TV and dresser across from it. I really appreciated the dual-sided desk design. A window seat ran the length of the window — perfect for enjoying the view. Overall, the accommodations were comfortable, offering plenty of room to spread out.

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◆ Be sure to look out for Parker, the Park Hyatt pug, a one-eyed rescue that calls the hotel home.

Services/Amenities: NoMI Kitchen not only serves awardwinning cuisine, it also offers a unique architectural detail to the building’s exterior on the side overlooking Michigan Avenue — a detail I’d noticed on other Chicago trips without being sure what I was viewing. At breakfast during my stay I was able to enjoy the opposite perspective. The breakfast service was quick and efficient, with tasty cuisine. My colleague and I also enjoyed lunch at the restaurant before departing, sitting in the more casual NoMI Lounge area. I visited the well-equipped, on-site fitness center and was pleased with the amount and state of the equipment on offer. The attached NoMI Spa, while small in size, offers a full menu of services. The property also offers more than 5,000 square feet of versatile meeting and event space coupled with state-of-the-art technology.

◆ The lobby lounge is a great spot to relax and get work done, and I appreciated the complimentary warm apple cider, coffee and tea, particularly on a chilly November afternoon. Park Hyatt Chicago 800 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312 335 1234 chicago.park.hyatt.com PHOTOS: © PARK HYATT CHICAGO

Arrival/Check-In: Chicago is one of my favorite U.S. cities, so I’m always eager to visit, especially around the holidays. Luckily, my recent visit coincided with the “Most Wonderful Time of the Year” and found me staying near the Water Tower, just off Michigan Avenue, my preferred area to stay when visiting the city. Unfortunately, my visit to Park Hyatt Chicago lasted only one night. My colleague and I arrived in the morning, well before check-in time, but our rooms were ready; and after a brief check-in, we were on way to our fifth-floor accommodations.

◆ I found the guestroom’s closet layout clever and functional. The closet opened both into the hallway and into the bathroom.


one on one

JEFF ZIDELL Senior Vice President, Loyalty Marketing, Hyatt Hotels Corp. change, World of Hyatt is a platform for understanding our guests. World of Hyatt started by talking with members and getting insights from our target customers to define benefits that really matter — ones that influence guests’ choice of a loyalty program. In fact, we tested hundreds of concepts before landing on the new program. The new program creates more opportunities to increase our engagement with members across our portfolio: It introduces three elite tiers (Discoverist, Explorist and Globalist) that reflect the aspirations of our members as they travel and expand their world. It moves tier qualification from nights and stays to nights and points to better reward more engagement across all our hotels, from luxury to select service. It offers a free night award for staying at five different Hyatt brands. And it delivers progressive benefits at 70, 80, 90 and 100 qualifying nights.

PHOTO: © JEFF ZIDELL

Name: Jeff Zidell Title: Senior vice president, loyalty marketing Company, city: Hyatt Hotels Corp., Chicago Number of employees: 100,000 worldwide Recent project: I have spent most of my time working on the launch of our new loyalty program, World of Hyatt. First job: My first “real” job during college was selling athletic shoes in a department store. Little-known fact about you: I can juggle. YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? The hotel industry will leverage more and more data and technology to personalize the guest experience and make it more relevant and meaningful to the guest. In addition, the evolution of mobile-based apps and tools

will enhance the guest journey, making it more seamless and effortless. What is the best career advice you’ve received? Mario Andretti said it best: “If everything feels under control, you’re just not going fast enough.” What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Spend time in a variety of different functions. There is so much that can be learned across different disciplines like finance, marketing, human resources and operations, and it’s important to see how everything comes together. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: A few years ago we took our two daughters to Paris, and we did a wonderful bike tour around Versailles including a picnic lunch with food from the local market. One travel tip you cannot live

without: Always bring running shoes and portable music because it’s fun to explore cities by running through them. Best advice for business travelers: Download the airline apps on your phone so it’s easy to get boarding passes and change seats on the fly. ABOUT YOUR BRAND Hyatt Gold Passport is now known as World of Hyatt. Tell our readers about the new program. World of Hyatt means we don’t just want to welcome you to our world, we want to understand yours. At Hyatt we believe in putting empathy into action. More than great locations, luxurious rooms and top-notch amenities, we have a greater purpose: to care for you so you can be your best. We have been reexamining all aspects of our business through the lens of that purpose, including our loyalty program. Far more than a name

What are the ideas behind the branding of the three levels of the World of Hyatt? We chose active names that cut through the typical nomenclature and speak to reflect the aspirations of the World of Hyatt community as they travel and expand their world. The names Discoverist, Explorist and Globalist align to consumers’ experiences and behaviors as they’re advancing in the loyalty program. It brings the holistic World of Hyatt experience together. What new hotel openings can World of Hyatt members look forward to in 2017? A record number of Hyatt hotels opened in 2016, and we expect to continue the momentum this year. We are focused on growing thoughtfully in places that matter most to our guests. This year we expect new openings around the globe and across our portfolio of brands. Just a few I am excited about include Hyatt House New York/Chelsea, Hyatt Regency Amsterdam, Park Hyatt Bangkok, Grand Hyatt Manila, Andaz Singapore and Hyatt Place Shanghai New Hongqiao.

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What is ATLNext? A dramatic evolution of air traveler needs has taken place over the past 40 years. To meet – and exceed – these needs, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL) has launched a $6 billion capital improvement program called ATLNext. ATLNext consists of a series of projects over the next 20 years designed to boost capacity, renew and replace existing facilities, and enhance ATL’s aesthetic appeal. As part of this development initiative, ATL will undergo a curb-to-gate modernization of the Airport’s domestic terminal. The centerpiece of this terminal modernization will be a multipurpose canopy that will protect guests from the elements as they arrive to or depart from the Airport. These projects, which fall under six general areas, will help secure Hartsfieldbolster the Airport’s goal to provide the best possible customer service while meeting passengers’ changing needs.

ATLNext Project Areas Air Cargo Development:

Third-Party Development:

Constructing new air cargo warehouse facilities, aircraft parking and a staging/parking area for cargo vehicles.

Building a 4-star, 440 room hotel, mixedtravel plaza.

Central Passenger Terminal Complex: Revitalizing the domestic terminal and Concourses T South through C as well as the transportation mall; adding more gates by building Concourse G and extending Concourse T North; and increasing capacity of the Plane Train system.

Parking Decks/Facilities: Adding parking by replacing the North and South domestic parking decks and constructing a new West domestic parking deck and Park-Ride lot.

Support Facilities: Rebuilding a LEED certified fire station and maintenance complex and relocating and updating the staging areas for commercial vehicles and taxis.

Airfield: Building two new end-around taxiways, replacing airfield pavement and eventually constructing a sixth runway.

next.atl.com

@atlairport


one on one

DIANE MOORE President, Paul Gauguin Cruises

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can travelers expect from a Paul Gauguin cruise? We specialize in luxury, small-ship cruising and offer exceptional service distinguished by Polynesian hospitality and one of the highest crew-to-guest ratios. With great expertise in Tahiti, French Polynesia and the South Pacific, we bring the destinations authentically alive. The m/s Paul Gauguin is the highest-rated and longest continually sailing luxury ship in the destination. Our cruises feature spacious oceanview accommodations including balconies in select staterooms, gourmet dining inspired by a top chef in Paris, a lavish spa, expansive deck space and pool, a fitness center, a boutique and a lounge with live entertainment and enrichment programs. The ship offers a watersports marina for kayaking, windsurfing, paddle boarding and diving. We offer exclusive private beach retreats off the coast of Taha’a and in Bora Bora.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the

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next years? The industry continues to showcase creative and innovative ideas as new destinations emerge. Multigenerational and experiential cruising is a hot trend in 2017. I see small luxury cruising as an up-and-coming trend; consumers love the individual experiences, the personal attention from staff and the unique destinations smaller vessels can visit. What is the best career advice you’ve received? It’s all about the people and relationships. Everything we do is focused on our guests and industry partners. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Travel and experience destinations as much as you can. Nothing compares to firsthand

MARCH 2017

experiences. We encourage our team to get on the m/s Paul Gauguin and see the beautiful islands of French Polynesia. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: My mother would hop on a plane at a moment’s notice and meet me in London or New York. After my son was born, she loved showing him the world. Having that time with her enjoying people and places worldwide was a gift. One travel tip you cannot live without: Bring what you need immediately in your carry-on luggage. Best advice for business travelers: Take time to enjoy the destination when on business, even if it is only one afternoon.

In 2018 Paul Gauguin Cruises will be the first to visit Vairao in Tahiti Iti; where else can passengers experience? Because the Gauguin is owned by French Polynesia’s leading luxury hotel and cruise operator, Pacific Beachcomber, and we are the experts to the region, we are first to visit Vairao in Tahiti Iti, the smaller of Tahiti’s two land masses. The itinerary also includes Bora Bora; Moorea; Huahine; and our private paradise, Motu Mahana. In 2018 we will showcase the seven-night Tahiti & the Society Islands; 10-night Society Islands & Tuamotus; 11-night Cook Islands & Society Islands; and 14-night Marquesas, Tuamotus & Society Islands. All feature complimentary access to our two exclusive retreats. At Motu Mahana guests enjoy a day of watersports, Polynesian activities, a barbecue and cocktails. In Bora Bora guests relax, enjoy refreshments and volleyball on a white-sand beach and snorkel in crystal-clear waters.

PHOTO: © PAUL GAUGUIN CRUISES

Name: Diane Moore Title: President Company, city: Paul Gauguin Cruises; Bellevue, Wash. Number of employees: 39 Recent project: We completed an agreement for two onboard programs with the Wildlife Conservation Society. First job: I started my career in the 1970s with Royal Cruise Line, a small company run by my father, Richard Revnes. Everyone wore many hats and learned every aspect of the business. Little-known fact about you: I grew up in the Chicago area, and I’m a Chicago Cubs fan. What an amazing year to be a Cubs fan!

Tell our readers more about the expert lecturers and artists joining Paul Gauguin Cruises this year. We are pleased to welcome experts in history, art, music, magic, wine and the wonders of the deep to offer lectures, performances and workshops. Special guests include oceanographer and environmentalist Jean-Michel Cousteau, Parisian chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, winemaker Jeffrey Stambor of Beaulieu Vineyard, celebrity journalist Lawrence Grobel, Nobel Peace Prize winner John Hay, singer Jamie Lawrence, photographer Jesse Kalisher and concert pianist Erik Berchot. In our Wildlife Discovery Series, guests learn about wildlife and habitats from scientists, oceanographers and conservationists; children ages 7–17 can enjoy the Stewards of Nature program during summer and holiday sailings.


GET SOCIAL Make Global Traveler your travel companion! Like our Facebook page; connect with us on LinkedIn; and follow us on Twitter, Instagram and Pinterest for travel updates, deals and more. Share your updates with us by using #globility. If you haven't checked them out lately, here's a sampling of what you may have missed:

FIND US HERE Like us on Facebook to stay updated and interact with fellow travelers.

PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © KIMBERLY KROL, © RODFERRIS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KIMBERLY LAGUEUX, © RUDI1976 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TRIBUTE PORTFOLIO

American Airlines was issued a $1.6 million fine for violating a rule regarding long tarmac delays. The fine was a result of the airline allowing several domestic flights to remain on the tarmac for more than three hours without allowing passengers an opportunity to get off the plane.

A memento from last night’s GT Tested Awards event at City Winery NYC, thanks to Inside Access from Chase. This was an amazing event that we were honored to be a part of! #citywinery #awards #globaltraveler #magazine #newyork #event

It’s time for a #whereintheworld #wednesdaytrivia challenge! Can you guess the country this scenic view is located in? We’ll give you a hint: It is surrounded by the majestic Victoria Glacier and a glistening emerald lake! #traveltrivia #challenge #worldbeauty

Follow GT’s Instagram, @globaltravelermag, for the best #snapshots from around the globe.

Connect with us on LinkedIn to stay informed on the world of business travel.

Follow us on Pinterest, or choose your favorite GT boards at pinterest.com/global traveler.

Our director of sales, Kimberly LaGueux, tells us all about her most romantic dinner experience at the Little Palm Island Resort.

In #2016, #Chicago hosted a record number of visitors to the city thanks to an increase in leisure, business trips.

Debuting in #Bali, @MarriottIntl opens the @Sthalaubudbali in Indonesia’s highly soughtafter uplands district.

Follow our Twitter account, @GTmag, for the latest #travelnews and #traveldeals.

Planning a trip this summer? British Airways has unveiled plans to launch 10 new travel routes for the high travel season. Rolling out at various times throughout the year, all routes will be available by the summer travel months and all will depart from the airline’s hub at Heathrow Airport in London. Find out which destinations have been added, and you may find yourself a new favorite destination! globaltravelerusa.com/british-airways-new-summer-2017-routes Last month, The United States Federal Railroad Administration announced its intentions to expand and repair the Northeast Corridor rail lines over the next 30 years. This means safer and more effective travel for those who use the rails. All the upgrades have an estimated price tag to the government of $123–128 billion. globaltravelerusa.com/northeast-corridor-rail-seek-expansion


technology

OUT AND ABOUT Take these inventive devices for a spin. BY AKHIL KALEPU TILE Tile is one of the most successful Kickstarter items to go into production, thanks to its simple design and easy-to-use app. The device is a Bluetooth location beacon to help you find your keys, wallet, bag or anything you find yourself losing nearby. Tile 2.0 was released earlier this year, but more exciting is the new Tile Slim, much thinner to conveniently place on your phone. $30. thetileapp.com

Considering Apple’s controversial product line, the new Macbook’s touch bar is turning many people back to Windows for their laptop. One of the main competitors is HP, with its new Spectre x360, a 13-inch convertible laptop that packs some serious hardware into a compact and luxurious case. The most exciting thing about this computer is the flappable touchscreen, allowing you to use it as a tablet. If that’s not enough, the device is less than 15mm thick and weighs less than 3 pounds, and you can even make it stand on its side to use as a media center. $749.99. hp.com

JABRA ELITE SPORT If you’re not satisfied with the iPhone 7’s AirPods, take a look at Jabra’s new Elite Sport earphones. Unlike Apple’s one-size-fits-all design, the Elite Sport comes in three sizes with the choice of foam or silicon finish, as well as three different fins to ensure a secure fit. Designed with the workout enthusiast in mind, these earphones manage to hold on tight, thanks to the sweat-proof construction. Such devices prioritize durability over audio quality, but the Elite Sport provides a deep, bass-heavy response that will satisfy most listeners. $249.99. jabra.com

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WAHOO FITNESS ELEMNT GPS BIKE COMPUTER You might wonder why a bike computer is necessary in the age of smartphones — until you try navigating the touchscreen while avoiding traffic on a curve. While plenty of smartphone mounts are available, Wahoo Fitness introduces a device made specifically for riders, with all the innovative data of your favorite biking app. By simply linking them through Bluetooth, WiFi or ANT+, the ELEMNT can provide you information on speed, time, distance, GPS directions and health stats. The device also includes built-in GPS if you don’t want to use your smartphone’s navigation. $329.99. wahoofitness.com

PHOTOS: © TILE, © HP, © WAHOO FITNESS, © JABRA

HP SPECTRE X360


wine & spirits

WINNING WINES South African Airways selects its country’s best varietals to serve passengers.

SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS boasts an 83-year history, founded in 1934. Today the international airline serves 38 airports in 26 countries. And for the 31st year, it continues its meticulous program of choosing the wines offered on board. Like many airlines of wine-producing countries, South African Airways is justly proud of its own nation’s wines and serves its passengers South Africa’s best. Choosing those wines is a painstaking exercise that brings out the finest of the offerings. This is how it works: Each year, wineries across South Africa submit wines to SAA to be judged. And each October, the airline invites 8 to 12 wine judges, all

BY EUNICE FRIED

professionals such as sommeliers, winemakers and certified wine educators; most are from South Africa, with a few international judges from countries that import South African wines and, thus, professionals familiar with those wines. For three days judges taste the wines blind — that is, the wines are served in numbered glasses so that other than being told the general type of wine (Sauvignon Blanc or Pinotage, for example), judges never see a bottle and do not know which winery submitted a given wine. While the number of wines tasted varies with the year, last year’s entry of 730 wines was typical. The judges narrow these hundreds of wines down to a workable number through their scores; internal and external auditors then compile the results. With that information, SAA selects 24 whites and 24 reds, as well as South Africa’s sparkling wines, to be served on flights and in its business-class lounges the following year. “The selection is an integral part of our overall customer experience and unique value proposition of promoting South African wine exclusively to our worldwide passenger base,” says Kim Thipe, head of marketing, SAA. The chosen wines are then allocated for service for a given month and for a given class of travel. “It is not hard to imagine how challenging it is to arrive at naming the winning wines,” adds Thipe. And not hard to imagine how intriguing they are.

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TASTE TEST:

South African Airways’ wine selection group (top left), a sampling of the many wines to consider (top right), and blind tasting the wines (bottom) PHOTOS: © SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS

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spoils

SHOWSTOPPERS Keep an eye on the time with this season’s stunning selections. BY PATRICK T. COOPER AND TERRY SPRUNGER IT MAY BE CLICHÉ, BUT IT IS TRUE: Time is of the essence, so take charge and choose accoutrements that reflect your personal style. This season’s luxury landscape of fine timepieces is wide open with intricacies, delicate details and riddles of splendid finishes that will make your mouth water. Whether you are a seasoned or novice collector, selecting the perfect watch can be arduous, so we explored the best watches in the world to aid you in making a sound investment. Be forewarned: We are not the voice of reason, but we will help you satisfy your urge to splurge. It’s your time — spoil yourself ! This class of watches will ignite your passion and excite your heart … or, shall we say, your ticker.

Chronometer Breitling’s flagship model is an instrument for professionals. Originally engineered and built to embody the entire spirit of aviation, the Chronometer comes in a variety of styles and presentations for men and women. This paragon of precision, reliability and durability boasts a chronometer certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. $8,700– 9,060.

Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie Since 1839 Patek Philippe garnered a record of undisputed supremacy in the watch world. This season the ladies’ Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie with moon phases is no exception. An exquisite rose gold with diamond-set bezel and dial rocks of royalty and is fit for a queen. $68,040.

breitling.com

Avenger Hurricane Water-resistant to 100 meters/330 feet, this aeronautical gem from Breitling features a screw-locked crown; a unidirectional, ratcheted rotating bezel; and a chambered, glare-proof sapphire crystal. Fit for a pilot, the Avenger Hurricane flaunts a standout 50mm diameter and an ultra-light futuristic casing named Breitlight. $8,390. breitling.com

Galactic 29 Not only men revel in the spirit of aviation. Breitling’s new Galactic 29 celebrates femininity. As with its male counterparts, Breitling never fails to deliver craftsmanship. Unquestionably feminine features such as its 29mm diameter make the Galactic 29 the smallest Breitling model. Dynamite comes in small packages, and this watch offers options for you to deliver a blast on your wrist. $8,330. breitling.com

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PHOTOS: © BREITLING, © PATEK

patek.com


Classic Fusion Bracelet Ever longed for a timepiece that is timeless, classic and fits into every aspect of your life? Well, look no further. The Classic Fusion Bracelet by Hublot is evergreen. Simple lines make it an elegant addition to any watch collector’s arsenal. Titanium or king gold color options make the selection process simple. The new integrated bracelet pairs nicely to present a subtle sophistication that will never go out of style. $8,800–37,400.

The Coffee Table Book Profess your love of fine jewels to guests of your residence. An excellent addition to your home, office or personal library, these literary works serve as a constant reminder of your love for timepieces. Heighten your status as an avid collector with these beautiful coffee table reads. $35–50. schifferbooks.com

PHOTOS: SCHIFFERBOOKS.COM, © HUBLOT

hublot.com

Big Bang Broderick Sugar Skull Color explosion! Hublot delivers a vibrant assortment of hues with this watch. The carbon fiber multicolored dial will surely make you happy, and onlookers will delight in the beauty of this timepiece. The 12 unique precious stones provide the shimmer and gleam your wrist deserves. Functional and full of color with a feminine touch, this option speaks fun for the weekend. $15,700. hublot.com

Classic Fusion Berluti Classic Fusion Berluti straps paired with the genius of Hublot design make this watch a showpiece. A vintage quiet elegance offered in a limited edition makes this model a must-have for the avid watch collector. Polished and vertical satin-finished black ceramic or 18K gold bezel options make this arm real estate. Rest assured you will be pleased when it’s time to get wound, as the 42-hour power reserve allows for ample backup. Limited edition (only 250 made); contact store for details. hublot.com

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spas

PRECIOUS MOMENTS Restore inner peace at Charleston’s Amethyst Spa.

COZY COMFORT:

Amethyst Spa

PHOTO: © THE AMETHYST SPA AT THE RESTORATION

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BY KIMBERLY KROL

THE OLD ADAGE GOES, “Diamonds are a girl’s best friend.” Perhaps it’s time we rethink the popular saying. The 21st-century spin: “Amethysts are a girl’s best friend.” I learned this firsthand while on a long weekend getaway to Charleston, S.C., with my own best friend, Jill, when we visited The Amethyst Spa & Nail Bar at the über-chic boutique hotel, The Restoration. The property comprises five buildings updated and modernized for today’s most discerning guests while still boasting the genuine, Lowcountry hospitality for which Charleston is known. Enjoying a prime location on King Street, part of The Restoration’s charisma and appeal comes from its history: The first building, on the corner of King and Wentworth streets, dates to 1940, originally a restaurant, office and apartment building before an

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additional two stories were added in 1963. At 269 King St., the second building was originally a department store with connections to the Dillard family. Building Three, a classic example of a Charleston elevated row home from 1886 at 73 Wentworth St., now houses the hotel’s Port Mercantile. Dating to 1907, when it was built as an open-floor telephone and telegraph building, 77 Wentworth St. is the complex’s fourth building. The newest addition, 79 Wentworth, is a seven-story structure with 36 guestrooms and other in-house hotel outlets. The varied personalities, charms and historical uses meld today into the cohesive Restoration. The Restoration prides itself on a strong sense of community, debuting programming and partnerships that engage hotel guests and locals while giving back to the area. Various initia-


tives include the fair-trade coffee partner Toby’s Estate, amenities partner Beekman 1802 and a local Artist in Residency program. All hotel guestrooms are suites, ranging in size and shape from studio and one-bedroom to two-bedroom balcony and residential rooftop suites. In addition to the spa, our stop for the day, public spaces include The Library, The Watch: Rooftop Kitchen & Spirits, The Rise Coffee Bar, The Indigo Pool, King Street Rooftop, The Courtyard and The Port Mercantile Retail Store. Private event space is also available. While it might be difficult to fully capture the essence of the space in words, one step inside the laid-back but charming, warm and inviting space and you instantly feel a level of comfort and calm — slipping us into the perfect mindset for our Amethyst Signature Meridian massages followed by lunch at The Watch. I wanted to learn more about the healing properties of amethysts, as crystals were to be used in the treatment. The stone’s healing powers are used to help combat physical ailments, particularly of the nervous system; emotional issues; and in energy healing and chakra balance. Amethysts help one find spiritual awareness, inner peace and balance and enhance meditation and stress relief. The spa itself is small, with just a few treatment rooms, a nail bar, reception area, a small changing space and a two-seat lounge area. The size and intimacy fit with the vibe of the hotel, and it felt as though we were indulging at our own private spa for the afternoon. After we took turns changing, we thumbed through magazines and chatted in the cozy lounge. As a result of a scheduling snafu, only one appointment was confirmed, but the spa staff quickly rectified the error, calling in the other masseuse. She arrived quickly, only throwing off our schedule by maybe 30 minutes. The staff also happily adjusted the other appointment so Jill and I could be on the same timetable and called the restaurant to adjust our lunch reservation. In the end, it was barely a glitch and barely a disruption to our peace. In addition to amethyst crystals used along energy points and meridians during the treatment, my therapist placed a large rectangular amethyst under the bedding on the treatment table to work in tandem with the other crystals, magnetizing the negative energy from my body. After a brief consultation, my masseuse

deduced the best massage techniques to apply on my muscles and used the stones and warm oils charged with amethyst, sapphire and aquamarine to relieve tension and rebalance my energy. Other services available, in addition to a variety of massages, include body treatments, facials and a full nail bar. Many treatments incorporate precious gems, including the Pearl & Diamond Signature manicure or pedicure, the Sapphire Copper Energy Facial and the Diamond Dust Body Ritual. Following our treatments, Jill and I convened in the lounge where we started, sipping green tea, savoring our few remaining moments of Zen and appreciating our rebalanced energies as we prepared to continue our exploration of the city of Charleston. But first we visited The Watch to take in the expansive — albeit cloudy — views of the city while enjoying a lobster roll. Grabbing a chai tea latte from The Rise Coffee Bar to warm us against the mid-November chill, we were fully armed to take on the city.

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FEET RETREAT:

Amethyst Spa, Nail Bar

PHOTO: © THE AMETHYST SPA AT THE RESTORATION

The Amethyst Spa at The Restoration 75 Wentworth St. Charleston, SC 29401 tel 843 518 5116 therestorationhotel.com

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golf

A FAVORITE, REFRESHED Trump National Golf Club, Los Angeles’ new look offers a revitalized experience at an old standby. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

BUNKER BOUNTY:

Hole 18

PHOTO: © TRUMP NATIONAL GOLF CLUB

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OVER THE COURSE of my career, I have played more than a few rounds Tiger’s backstory. Trump National started as Ocean Trails, known as the course that at Trump National Golf Club, Los Angeles. The team there has always lost its 18th hole to the Pacific Ocean in 1999, weeks before it was to been helpful securing tee times for travelers like myself, coming in for open. The culprit was a cracked drainage pipe that leaked and caused an extended business stay. I must give a shout out to Lili Amini, general the entire hole to slough off into the sea. After trying to make a go of it, manager, and Joey Lewis, PGA head golf professional, who have been the previous owner put the course in receivership. helpful whenever I play. Guess who came in to buy the course for a song? I have a client who recalls a shot where the I have a client who recalls a shot The Trump Organization. Working the art of the head of my 7 iron snapped off and sailed into where the head of my 7 iron deal, Trump negotiated the buy and the insurance a deep ravine, destined to be part of the course to cover the repairs. I guess it is important to read forever. He reminds me every time we play. snapped off and sailed into a Another fond memory was when I was deep ravine, destined to be part those pesky insurance policies. Part of the makeover, in which Donald Trump invited as a guest of American Airlines for a of the course forever. was hands-on, included adding several waterfalls, Tee It Up with Tiger golf outing, which took sand bunkering and other enhancements. Fast place when Tiger Woods was nursing a stress forward to 2015, and Trump was no longer pleased with the waterfalls. fracture in his leg. He did walk with us on Hole 11, a par 3, and made a Some say the California drought might have played a role as well. comment about my tee shot, “Hey, that looks like a pretty good shot!” Frankly, I never liked the waterfalls, as they made some of the holes more I recently attended a Chase Inside Access event where Hank Haney, gimmicky than challenging and they looked too artificial. As the Grand famed Tiger Woods swing coach, gave each player a mini lesson (Global Slam of golf was about to be played at the course, Trump felt the timing Traveler August 2016). Hanks’ book, The Big Miss, is worth a read to get

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was right for the changes. The good news: They are gone, and along with some other positive changes, Trump National Golf Club, Los Angeles is great again. I teed up for a game with E Bae Kim and Bill Noonan from Asiana Airlines and Vladimir Velasco, formerly with Malaysia Airlines.

HOLE 1 | 358 yards, par 3

I always thought this hole was a painful start. You hit from an elevated tee box to the fairway below. With the alterations, the waterfall behind the green was removed and 30 yards were added to the left to offer a bailout landing area. It’s a real risk-reward situation. The green was raised slightly, so your approach shot is blind unless you are on the left side. In addition, the fairway was raised, changing the whole dynamic. With the higher green, you need to have better control stopping the ball, which was a problem in the past and still is today. We had great drives from all, including E Bae who hit a beauty, but we all had issues with the dreaded second shot. Vlad performed best, scoring a bogey.

HOLE 9 | 509 yards, par 4

Nine is the No. 1-ranked handicapped hole on the course, and much of this has to do with the length and the sloping of the fairway from right to left. This slope can pull you into the fairway bunker on the left (the largest on the course at 120 yards) on your drive or roll you into the water later as you gain yardage to the green. It’s a par 4 best played as a par 5 for most weekend golfers, like the members of our team. The three-tiered green is fronted by the aforementioned lake, which makes scoring challenging. Bill was trying to play a “head game” with me, but I turned this around by securing par.

HOLE 17 | 240 yards, par 3

Check out the renovations made to the championship tees on this hole — it makes for an impossible par 3 for mere mortals! This is another post-waterfall hole that otherwise stayed consistent with the exception of a great deal of bunker work to bring the hole back into shape. From the tee box you have a lovely view of the white, sandy bunkers and the huge American flag that stands beyond the green at the clubhouse. I took an overly aggressive swing and ended up way left on the bramble but findable. It took me two more shots to the green and a two putt while Vlad and E Bae secured a safer landing area to the right and in front for a couple of Texas wedges to the cup and one putt for par.

HOLE 18 | 512 yards, par 4

This is a great finish hole with magnificent views of the

Pacific Ocean and the cliffs below, which once swallowed up some of the course. As we teed off, the weather was starting to cool down a bit, and we were searching for the jackets we did not think we would need that day. Rancho Palos Verdes can run 10 degrees cooler than Los Angeles, and the marine layer can be thick in the mornings. It can be quite beautiful to see this fog over the topography of the region: On a clear day, you can see Catalina Island and, if you are lucky, whales trekking the waters below. The fairway is two-tiered and whether you land on the lower or the upper tier will change the way you play this hole. The lower will be more difficult, causing you to play directly off the many bunkers that dot the approach and guard the green. I counted seven on the left alone. From the upper tier you have the opportunity to go for the green with a throat opening from the fairway. There are still bunkers, but they come less into play with four on the right. One of us always cuts the left side too closely and lands in the enormous bunker on the left side, which must be just a little smaller than the bunker on Hole 9. This time I was that person. This made for a nearly impossible shot to the green, which I took, rather than bailing out right. I hit one of those bunkers on the left; this ruined my chance for par. The rest of the team also struggled. From all the times I’ve played this course over the years, I have fond memories of some clients climbing like billy goats on the right side of the hole to find wayward balls. Opening up the course also offered more landing areas for bailouts and better views of the ocean. The clubhouse staff does an excellent job with meals and drinks, and the pro shop makes the experience of buying a pleasure.

TEE IT UP:

Clubhouse (top) and a souvenir name tag from the American Airlines’ golf outing with Tiger Woods PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Trump National Golf Club, Los Angeles 1 Trump National Drive Rancho Palos Verdes, CA 90275 tel 310 265 5000 trumpnationallosangeles.com

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chefs

GLOBAL INSPIRATION BY KIMBERLY KROL

PHOTOS: © ROSEWOOD MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK

Chef Tom Parlo brings a world of culinary expertise to Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.

CHEF TOM PARLO’S PASSION for food developed at a young age, helping his mother cook complex dishes from scratch for the family. His lifelong journey took him to culinary school, into the kitchens of Michelin-starred chefs and on exceptional travels to hone his mastery of classic French techniques, global perspectives and ingredient integrity. From The St. Regis New York City; Four Seasons New York; Mandarin Oriental, Miami; Biltmore Hotel; The St. Regis Bal Harbour; and Hotel Granduca Austin, Parlo arrived at his new home as executive chef of Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek and its iconic Mansion Restaurant. Since 1980 The Mansion Restaurant has been among the legends in Texas, often lauded as the most spectacular in Dallas. Under the helm of Parlo, the restaurant today serves contemporary American cuisine featuring global ingredients alongside an authentic Texas experience. When not delighting the palates of hotel guests and Dallas residents, Parlo enjoys the outdoors, meditating and spending time with his wife and two sons. His lifelong passion also translates to the bookshelf, where his collection of vintage cookbooks boasts names including Thomas Keller, Daniel Humm and Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/MENUS? I have traveled to Paris, Madrid, Frankfurt, Cologne, Rome and Venice. While visiting, I have had truly incredible dining experiences, explored beautiful food markets and visited local farms. I find inspiration from my journeys through Europe and Asia. WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Chef Gunter Seeger and Chef Gray Kunz are my culinary heroes. Seeger introduced me to world-class ingredients and how to implement the best techniques to maintain their integrity. In New York City I worked at Lespinasse under Kunz, and his creativity was infectious to the team. His European and Asian culinary techniques are precise, and he is a master at elevating flavors to a higher level. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? Chef Gunter Seeger taught me farmers are

the true stars, not chefs. Simplicity is harder to execute than a complicated plating. He has deep respect for ingredients, which is part of my culinary philosophy in every dish I create today. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? New York City is my favorite culinary destination. NYC has exciting, excellent cuisine of all types and at all levels, from street food to the top restaurants in the world. I love to explore the city. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? I think food with strong Indian and Southeast Asian influences will be a big trend, offering ingredients and dishes that will be new to the United States. The Mansion Restaurant at Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. Dallas, TX 75219 tel 214 559 2100 rosewoodhotels.com



cruising

BIGGER, BETTER, BUSIER Cruise ports scramble to modernize and expand facilities. AS CRUISE SHIPS GROW LARGER and more luxurious, cruise ports rush to keep up, modernizing and expanding their facilities across the globe. In Florida, which boasts the three busiest cruise ports in the world, the busiest harbor, Miami, is readying a new terminal for 2018, built by Royal Caribbean for mega-ship passengers. Runner-up rival Port Everglades in Fort Lauderdale is lengthening Slip 2 to accommodate more resort-sized ships, too, and remains the only cruise port to offer passengers Global Entry security clearance. As for third-place Port Canaveral in Orlando, the latest enhancement is a $7 million amphitheater. In the Caribbean, San Juan, Puerto Rico, lengthened several piers and added an $8 million duty-free building. Carnival Cruise Line is building a $70 million port facility at Tortuga Island, north of Haiti. MSC Cruises will open an 85-acre, $2 million cruise port, Ocean Caye, in The Bahamas in December, while Norwegian Cruise Line is already operating Harvest Caye, an island port with marina, lagoon and floating piers in Belize. On the U.S. Gulf Coast, Houston ceased cruise operations, but Mobile, Ala., returned after a five-year hiatus, adding a new climatecontrolled customs area with eight stations. The Port of New Orleans converted two older terminals into one, enlarging the lobby and baggage areas for mega-ship passengers. Galveston, America’s fourth-busiest port, expanded Terminal 2 and now offers valet parking, making it easier to drop off and retrieve vehicles. Elsewhere, port expansions proliferate. Montréal completed a massive makeover of its 50-year-old cruise terminal in anticipation of record numbers of arrivals for the city’s 375th birthday celebrations. Seattle, enjoying a surge in Alaskabound cruises, welcomes the expansion of its Bell Street Cruise Terminal under the management of Norwegian Cruise Line. Carnival is investing $33 million to build and operate a second

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BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

SHIPSHAPE: Royal Caribbean’s new terminal in Miami (above), and Fort Lauderdale’s Port Everglades (left)

PHOTOS: © ROYAL CARIBBEAN, © BROWARD COUNTY’S PORT EVERGLADES

private cruise terminal in Barcelona, Europe’s largest cruise port. Occasionally, a brand-new cruise port pops up. Next year, London will open its first cruise port, located in the Royal Borough of Greenwich, right on the Thames. The London City Cruise Port will limit the size of visiting liners to a modest 1,600 passengers, but it has drawn fire from locals concerned about environmental damage and the onslaught of tourists. Similar protests also continue in Venice, the world’s 10th-busiest cruise port, where UNESCO warns it will place Venice on its list of endangered heritage sites if the largest cruise ships are not prohibited soon. On a brighter (and greener) note, the Port of Red Hook in Brooklyn joined a handful of other pioneers by enabling cruise ships to shut down their smokestacks and plug into the port’s power grid. Any port may do in a storm, but cruise passengers are fussy about where they embark and disembark. As well as expanding operations to handle bigger ships, ports worldwide are scrambling to improve passenger facilities and services.

’s dale der u a tL es For glad ver E rd t reco Por d l r o t aw en i set r wh a e y than last ore m rs dled enge han ass p 00 . 54,0 day ngle i s in a


Sophisticated design, magnificent architecture, highly personalized service, paired with exceptional dining and amenities – and everything else you would expect from a luxury hotel experience. Whether you choose to stay at the contemporary adult oriented ME by Meliá, the lush tropical world of Paradisus Resorts, the timeless splendor of Gran Meliá Hotels & Resor ts, or Melia Hotels & Resorts with destinations worldwide – the unexpected is what we do best.

For more information, please contact 1.800.33.MELIA or visit melia.com


feature

A Gala Evening Global Traveler celebrates the 2016 GT Tested Reader Survey award winners from the heart of Beverly Hills. BY KIMBERLY KROL | PHOTOS BY NICOLAS BATES AND CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK

HIT THE ROAD:

Gotham Dream Car Tour PHOTO: © GOTHAM DREAM CARS

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THE WHO’S WHO of the travel industry gathered once again at The Peninsula Beverly Hills to celebrate the Global Traveler 2016 GT Tested Reader Survey awards, Wines on the Wing airline wine competition, the Airline and Hotel of the Year, the Hall of Fame honorees and the Quint Status recipients. It was lucky number 13, as 2016 marked the 13th year for our prestigious awards; it was the also the sixth year the event was held at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. More than 200 guests enjoyed the awardwinning hospitality of the Los Angeles hotel hot spot, while guest of honor Mack Dryden, a comedian and motivational speaker, appeared on behalf of The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. The event also served as the kick-off for GT’s annual charity auction benefitting LLS.

Global Traveler’s GT Tested Reader Survey awards are the most respected in the luxury business travel industry. Winners are named based on the results of an open-ended reader survey. Chase Bank Credit Cards, multiple winner and Quint Status honoree, sponsored the night’s festivities, including a Dom Perignon raffle. The lucky winners included David Rezaieh, vice president, airline relations, Downtown Travel; Bernard Siew, vice president, process and system innovation, airport operations management, Changi Airport Group; Gunter Saurwein, vice president, the Americas, Qatar Airways; Jean-Christophe Murat, member, Global Traveler Globility Board; and Chema Alvarado, director, sales, oneworld. China Airlines, Airline of the Year winner, also sponsored the fete.


WINNERS’ CIRCLE Aeroflot Best Airline in Eastern Europe Aeromexico Best Airline in Mexico Air Canada Best Airline in North America Air India Best Airline in Central/South Asia & India Air Tahiti Nui Best Airline in the South Pacific Alitalia Best Airline Cuisine All Nippon Airways Best Airline to Japan American Airlines Best Airline for Domestic First Class Best Red Wine International First Class Best Red Wine International Business Class Best North American Wines on the Wing Best North American Sparkling Wine Best North American White Wine Best North American Red Wine American Express Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Promotions Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Benefits Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Benefits Asiana Airlines Best Airline for Onboard Service Best Airline for Flight Attendants Avianca Best Frequent-Flyer Customer Service, Americas Best Frequent-Flyer Award Redemption Bank of America Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card (Quint Status) Boingo Wireless Best WiFi Service Briggs & Riley Best Luggage Brand British Airways Best Champagne International First Class

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Chase Bank Credit Cards Best Credit Card (Quint Status) Best Small-Business Credit Card Best Credit Card Special Events Best Credit Card Rewards Program (Quint Status) Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card (Quint Status) Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Redemptions Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Redemptions

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Chicago O’Hare International Airport Best Airport in North America China Airlines Airline of the Year Best Business-Class Seat Design Best Airline in North Asia (excluding China) Citibank Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Promotions 8

Delta Air Lines Best Airport Lounges

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Dubai Duty Free Best Duty-Free Shops (Hall of Fame) EL AL Israel Airlines Best Airline for Security (Hall of Fame) Emirates Best White Wine International First Class EVA Air Best Airport Staff/Gate Agents Grupo Posadas Best Hotel Chain in Mexico Hainan Airlines Fastest-Growing Airline in Asia Best Airline in China (Quint Status) Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport Best Airport Dining Hawaiian Airlines Best Frequent-Flyer Elite-Level Program

globaltravelerusa.com

2. Lisa Holladay, vice president, brand marketing, The Ritz-Carlton 3. Ouyang Chen, deputy service general manager, Hainan Airlines; Hainan Airlines flight attendants 4. Jayson Goh, managing director, airport operations, Changi Airport Group

Hertz Best Car Rental Company

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1. David Gold, general manager, partnerships, Chase Bank Credit Cards; Tara Bakhle, marketing director, Chase Bank Credit Cards; Mack Dryden

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5. Kristen Wendt, senior vice president, Citibank

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6. Quida Hartley, customer service representative and platinum ambassador, Hertz; Aaron Medina, regional vice president, Hertz 7. Leimomi Hall, director of sales, North America, Hawaiian Airlines 8. David H.S. Kim, general manager and vice president, Hotel Lotte 9. Gunter Saurwein, vice president, Americas, Qatar Airways

10. Praveen Sharma, vice president, loyalty, United Airlines; Mack Dryden 11. Sinead El Sibai, senior vice president, marketing, Dubai Duty Free; Mack Dryden



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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Hyatt Best Airport Hotel Best Lifestyle Hotel Best Frequent-Stay Customer Service, Americas

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IHG Rewards Club Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World Ireland Best Tourism Destination (Quint Status) JetBlue Best Airline Website Jumeirah International Best Hotel Chain in the Middle East Best Individual Hotel in the World LATAM Airlines Group Best Airline to South America

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Lotte Hotel, Seoul Best Hotel in South Korea (Quint Status) Best MICE Hotel Lufthansa Best Trans-Atlantic Airline Marriott Rewards Best Frequent-Stay Award Redemption MeliĂĄ Hotels International Hotel of the Year

1. Pradeep Ganatra, manager, Air India

6. Chema Alvarado, director of sales, oneworld

Omni Hotels & Resorts Best Frequent-Stay Bonus Program

2. Suzanne Shalaby, director of global sales, Americas, Jumeirah International

7. Trip Barrett, vice president, brand management, Latin America, Starwood Latin America

oneworld Best Airline Alliance The Peninsula Beverly Hills Best Hotel in the United States Qantas Airways Best Airline to Australia and New Zealand Qatar Airways Best Airline for International First Class Best First-Class Seat Design Best Airline in the Middle East

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3. Vaihiria Kelley, marketing director, Air Tahiti Nui 4. Julie Vargo, vice president, consumer marketing, Boingo 5. Jean Saito, manager, public relations, marketing and sales, All Nippon Airways

8. Todd Neuman, executive vice president, North America, South African Airways; Mack Dryden 9. Carlos Paneiro, vice president of sales, North America, TAP Portugal; Abilio Martins, senior vice president, digital commerce and communication, TAP Portugal; Trey Ur-

bahn, chief commercial officer, TAP Portugal; Fernanda Ottavio, director, passenger sales and marketing, North America, TAP Portugal 10. Mandi Nather, associate manager, IHG Rewards Club, InterContinental Hotels Group; Mack Dryden; Kimberly Meneghel, campaign manager, InterContinental Hotels Group 11. Patrick Khoury, senior director sales, USA, Air Canada


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WINNERS’ CIRCLE The Ritz-Carlton Best International Hotel Chain Best Domestic Hotel Chain Best Hotel Club Floor Best Hotel Website 4

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Seoul Best MICE City Sheraton Hotels & Resorts Best Hotel Chain in Latin America

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Singapore Airlines Best Overall Airline in the World Best Airline for Business Class Best International First Class Wines on the Wing Best Champagne International First Class Best International Business Class Wines on the Wing Best Champagne International Business Class

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Singapore Changi Airport Best Overall Airport in the World South African Airways Best Airline in Africa Tamron Best Photographic Equipment

1. Offer Nissenbaum, managing director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills; Mack Dryden 2. Vibhat Nair, general manager, Chase Bank Credit Cards 3. Daniel Munoz, associate director, business travel and consortia, Grupo Posadas; Mack Dryden

4. Benedetto Mencaroni Poiani, regional manager, North America, Alitalia; Mack Dryden 5. Gonzalo Robles Daud, North America division, sales, vice president, Aeromexico; Mack Dryden 6. Dragan Drobnjak, sales manager, USA, Aeroflot; Mack Dryden

7. Simon Lee, vice president, China Airlines; Mack Dryden 8. E Bae Kim, senior vice president, the Americas, Asiana Airlines; Mack Dryden 9. Alastair Hay-Campbell, vice president, southwest USA, Singapore Airlines; Mack Dryden

TAP Portugal Best Airline for New Service Launch Best Airline in Europe Best White Wine International Business Class United Airlines Best Trans-Pacific Airline Best Overall Frequent-Flyer Program Best Frequent-Flyer Bonus Program Verizon Wireless Best Wireless Service in the World Volvo Best Overseas Delivery Program

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2. Theresa Chu, marketing manager, Marriott 3. Elizabeth Windram, director, brand management and advertising, JetBlue 4. Rene Mizwicki, senior director of marketing, Hyatt 5. Ryan Weikert, director, global roaming marketing, Verizon Wireless 6. Simon Brooks, senior vice president

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1. Michelle Lee, director of sales, Delta Air Lines

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sales, North America, British Airways 7. Lisa Kalhans, co-brand product management, American Express 8. James Beattie, director, co-brand Hilton partnerships, Hilton; Alexandra Romero, director, Hilton product management, American Express 9. Ginger Evans, commissioner, Chicago Department of Aviation 10. Jennifer Plasket, senior vice president, deposit sales and marketing, Bank of America

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11. Mario Jimenez, corporate sales manager, Avianca; Angelly Vivian Coccaro, marketing administrator, North America, Avianca 12. Diana Shaffer, manager, sales, Volvo Overseas Delivery; North Holbrook, commercial sales manager, Volvo Overseas Delivery 13. Yoram Elgrabli, managing director, North & Central America, EL AL Israel Airlines 14. Stephen Thompson, head of North America, Qantas; Mack Dryden


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1. Jaeyong Kim, director, tourism policy division, Seoul 2. Matthias Schmid, vice president, sales, USA, Emirates

5. Heike Birlenbach, chief commercial officer, Lufthansa; Tamur Goudarzi-Pour, vice president, the Americas, Lufthansa 6. Gregg Maniaci, president and CEO, Tamron USA, Inc.

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10. Gary Huang, junior vice president, EVA Air 11. Chilly Ewing, airport concessions director, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport

3. Peter Strebel, chief marketing officer, Omni Hotels & Resorts

7. Richard Krulik, CEO, Briggs & Riley

12. Pablo Chiozza, vice president, USA, Canada, Caribbean, LATAM Airlines Group

4. Alison Metcalfe, executive vice president, USA & Canada, Tourism Ireland

8. Fernand Fernandez, vice president of global marketing, American Airlines

13. Connie Lacroes, regional marketing director, the Americas, Meliรก Hotels International

9. Adam Myott, general manager, Grand Hyatt Incheon

14. Amanda Bailey, director of Hilton HHonors marketing, Hilton Worldwide

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1. David Gold, general manager, partnerships, Chase Bank Credit Cards; Praveen Sharma, vice president, loyalty, United Airlines 2. Angela Geissler, director of accounts, North America, Munich Airport; Tom Geissler; Carly Allen, associate publisher and executive vice president, Global Traveler 4

3. Gina Reilly; Frank Reilly, member, Global Traveler Globility Board

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4. Pradeep Ganatra, manager, Air India; Jean-Christophe Murat, member, Global Traveler Globility Board; Sonia Murat; Iris Childress, member, Global Traveler Globility Board 5. Mack Dryden; Tracey Cullen, art director, Global Traveler 6

6. Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler; David Gold, general manager, partnerships, Chase Bank Credit Cards; Trip Barrett, vice president, brand management, Latin America, Starwood Latin America

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7. Fern Ottavio, sales and marketing director, TAP Portugal; Banu Yilmaz, advertising director, Global Traveler

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8. Offer Nissenbaum, managing director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills 9. Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler 10. Mack Dryden 11. David Gold, general manager, partnerships, Chase Bank Credit Cards

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12. Eric Chiang, member, Global Traveler Globility Board; Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler 13. Richard T. Evans, senior vice president, Global Traveler; Tara Bakhle, marketing director, Chase Bank Credit Cards

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Business Class (Staggered Layout)

2016 Best Airline for Onboard Service 13th Consecutive Year

First Class with Door

ASIANA380 Business Class

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11.1” Monitors in Economy Class

Dressing Room (Lavatory)

A CLASS BEYOND THE ORDINARY

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The New ASIANA380, Special Edition.

Our staggered layout offers direct access to the aisle, more private space, and fully reclining flat-bed seats for a pleasant in-flight experience.


feature

The Phoenician Scottsdale

InterContinental Los Angeles

Silent Auction 2017 Global Traveler opens the bidding in its annual auction to benefit The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ

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EACH YEAR, Global Traveler hosts an online travel auction to benefit The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society, joining in the fight of a lifetime. If we stand united with LLS, we can aid in the organization’s mission to cure leukemia, lymphoma, Hodgkin’s disease and myeloma. Approximately 1.2 million people living in the United States either have or are in remission from leukemia, lymphoma or myeloma. You might ask yourself, “What can I do to help?” One way is to bid in our auction, fulfilling your travel dreams while helping ensure someone has the chance to live to fulfill their own dreams. The following selection of items is available at our online auction, live March 1 through May 1. Bid on businessclass airline tickets, luxury travel items and stays at some of the world’s finest hotels, generously donated by our corporate partners. All of the auction proceeds go straight to LLS to help fund its life-saving research and patient services.

As a result of LLS-conducted and -funded research and other initiatives, survival rates quadrupled over the last 50 years. LLS made it possible for so many people diagnosed to continue living full, healthy lives, and LLS provides hope for those still fighting. Thanks to your generous participation in past auctions, we’ve raised more than $1 million on behalf of LLS. Every year we aim to raise the bar higher. Join us in reaching our goal in 2017 by bidding often on the items listed on the following pages. An amazing travel experience is within reach, and with it comes another step in the fight to eradicate cancer. Log on to our website via your smartphone for complete instructions and to start bidding. Visit the website regularly, as new items will be added.

BID TODAY

global17.auction-bid.org

PHOTOS: © THE PHOENICIAN SCOTTSDALE, © INTERCONTINENTAL LOS ANGELES, © THE TIME NYACK HOTEL

The Time Nyack Hotel


China World Summit Wing, Beijing

Meliá Buenos Aires

Two-night stay at The Biltmore Hotel Coral Gables in a junior suite with daily breakfast

© WESTIN DUBAI, © BOSE, © DELSEY, © GLOBAL TRAVEL CLOTHING

PHOTOS: © CHINA WORLD SUMMIT WING, BEIJING, © THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS, © MELIÁ, © SHANGRI-LA,

Two-night stay at The Beverly Hilton

Bose Soundlink aroundthe-ear wireless headphones Two-night stay at The Breakers Palm Beach Two round-trip businessclass tickets from LAX/SFO/JFK to TPE on China Airlines Two round-trip China Eastern Airlines business-class tickets for flights departing LAX, JFK, SFO, ORD, HNL, YVR or YYZ

The Peninsula Beverly Hills

Kowloon Shangri-La Hong Kong

Westin Dubai

Two-night stay at China World Summit Wing, Beijing in an executive room with daily breakfast Delsey Helium Sky 2.0 suitcase Global Travel Clothing jacket One-night stay at InterContinental Los Angeles Three-night stay at Kowloon Shangri-La Hong Kong

Delsey

Global Travel Clothing

Two-night stay at The Langham, Chicago Four-day, three-night stay in a superior deluxe room, including breakfast, at Mandarin Orchard Singapore

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Singapore Airlines

Three-night stay at Meliá Buenos Aires

Two-night stay at the San Francisco Marriott Marquis

Two-night stay at Montage Beverly Hills

One pair of Singapore Airlines business-class tickets, Houston (IAH)–Manchester (MAN)

Three-night stay at any Omni hotel or resort in North America Seven-night stay at Palm Island The Grenadines Three-night stay at Paradisus Cancún Three-night stay at Paradisus Los Cabos Two-night stay at The Peninsula Beverly Hills Two-night stay at The Phoenician Scottsdale Three-night stay at any Radisson Blu or Radisson location worldwide

Three-night stay at Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills Two-night stay at The St. Regis Dubai One-night stay at The Time Nyack Hotel Two-night stay at Virgin Hotels Chicago Two-night stay at W Dubai Two-night stay at The Westin Dubai

BID TODAY global17.auction-bid.org

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PHOTOS: © SINGAPORE AIRLINES, © RADISSON, © SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS, © W DUBAI

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills

Radisson


be rewarded. be one. Earn and redeem miles and points across all member airlines. As a oneworld traveler, wherever you go, your rewards follow. Learn more at oneworld.com

an alliance of the world's leading airlines working as one. airberlin American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines

oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on oneworld, visit www.oneworld.com. airberlin, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld.


mice | KUALA LUMPUR

Ready, Willing and Able Kuala Lumpur gears up for gatherings of all sizes. BY ELLEN CLARK

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ONE HAS TO WONDER what Kuala Lumpur’s original inhabitants would think if they could time-travel into the 21st century. Poor tin miners, they lived a hard-scrabble existence in wooden houses with palm frond thatching at the confluence of two muddy rivers. Who knew then that Kuala Lumpur — fondly known as KL by locals — would turn into a megalopolis of buildings reaching to the sky, ribbons of roads crammed with cars and a population in the millions? Today this progressive, fast-moving, continually growing city is ready, willing and able to welcome meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions of all kinds from all countries. The city’s excellent infrastructure, efficient transportation and communications systems, growing economy and IT-savvy population make it a perfect fit for MICE events. And for unwinding after a long day of meetings, visitors enjoy a variety of tourist attractions, a plethora of shopping options, peaceful parks and some lively nightlife. KL has a venue to pretty much suit any size or type of gathering, starting with the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre. The 2015 Asia Pacific MICE Awards winner for

Best Networking Venue, this convention and exhibition center is in Kuala Lumpur City Centre, conveniently located near public transportation and hotels. Sitting on a 99-acre property designed as a city within a city, the convention center shares space with the 50-acre KLCC Park, the iconic Petronas Twin Towers and the six-story Suria KLCC high-end shopping mall, making it convenient to take a short break from business meetings for a quick coffee or a little shopping. While the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre is the largest meeting space in the city, planners will find plenty of other options. Mid Valley Exhibition Centre, for example, is located within one of the city’s most popular shopping venues, the Mid Valley Megamall. Part of the Kuala Lumpur Central Business District, the venue features numerous halls of various sizes equipped to handle exhibitions, seminars, concerts and consumer fairs. Putra World Trade Centre, known for personal service and flexible event management, offers four exhibition halls and a large outdoor area for tented exhibitions, while Sime Darby Convention Centre includes a stunningly designed Grand Ballroom with 19,000 square feet

016 uary 2 In Jan mpur ala Lu u K e th entre ntion C Conve shed a establi able ustain self-s tally ronmen i v n e and ftop ly roo friend ce nd spi herb a . garden


HEIGHTS AND SIGHTS: Petronas Twin Towers (left), view from the Petronas Towers Skybridge (middle), Merdeka Square fountain (right), and the confluence of the Gombak and Klang rivers in downtown Kuala Lumpur (bottom) PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK

UNIQUE VENUES

Kuala Lumpur seeks to tempt MICE organizers with large, state-of-theart venues in the heart of the city. A number of the larger 5-star chain hotels also offer exhibition and meeting space. But planners might consider hosting an event at one of these versatile options.

of column-free space accommodating up to 1,000 people for a sit-down dinner or 2,600 for a theater-style conference. The Malaysian External Trade Development Corp., established in 2007, developed the MATRADE Exhibition and Convention Centre, or MECC. In an iconic 24-story building, the complex boasts more than 860,000 square feet consisting of exhibition halls, a ballroom, function rooms and an amphitheater. It’s a popular venue for MICE events, with emphasis on Malaysian Trade-centric events. Regarding MICE-friendly hotels, the World Travel Awards declared Hilton Kuala Lumpur Malaysia’s Leading Business Hotel two years in a row. The property boasts 25,000 square feet of meeting space, overlooks the National Museum and lies only 28 minutes from Kuala Lumpur International Airport via direct KLIA Ekspres high-speed train. The 5-star InterContinental Kuala Lumpur offers 20,000 square feet of meeting space and is conveniently located a short stroll from the Petronas Towers and the Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre. Getting around town from the hotel is a breeze. Besides a complimentary scheduled hotel shuttle to KLCC, there’s a nearby Light Railway Transit stop and a Go KL bus that stops in front of the hotel. Despite being a progressive and continually growing modern city filled with sparkling, glass-walled skyscrapers and state-of-the-art shopping malls, KL is not soullessly modern. The local Malay, Chinese and Indian communi-

For a more intimate setting, the boutique Le Quadri Hotel offers a fully equipped, 600-capacity conference hall. The space features a performance stage, advanced lighting and sound systems and a multi-style room set up with options to suit any occasion. lequadrihotel.com For groups of 300 or fewer, event planners can rent Makespace, located in the Quill City Mall. With 8,000 square feet of event space spread over two floors, it presents a sleek, trendy, industrial warehouse look. Its location adjacent to an LRT and a monorail station makes it easily accessible. makespace.my

ties support colorfully adorned mosques and temples. The variety of cuisines further reflects KL’s ethnic diversity. And Southeast Asia’s largest museum of Islamic art sits amid the leafy surroundings of Kuala Lumpur’s Perdana Botanical Garden, a lovely green space that offers soothing relief from the concrete and steel. While the KL MICE market continues to grow, city officials continue to look for ways to speed its progress. In August 2016 a dedicated business events unit to manage KL’s MICE sector received the go-ahead. Noraza Yusof, general manager, Kuala Lumpur Tourism Bureau, said the unit will come under the bureau’s jurisdiction and will comprise a small team who, in collaboration with the Malaysia Convention & Exhibition Bureau, will work to strengthen the city’s business events branding and positioning.

Just a 45-minute drive from downtown Kuala Lumpur, Lui Farm is a full-service venue in a bucolic setting. Its motto, STREAM, stands for “Seminars, Training, Retreat, Exhibitions, Activities, Meetings.” The buildings are tucked in among lush foliage and flowering plants, and a river winds through the property. This tranquil setting makes it an excellent retreat for brainstorming meetings and team building. sites.google.com/a/luifarm.com/ www

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BUSINESS destinations

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BUENOS AIRES

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TURKEY’S BLACK SEA COAST


destination one | MEXICO CITY

Art of the City New architecture and design help Mexico City attract more business and leisure visitors. BY RON BERNTHAL BY 7 A.M. ON WEEKDAY MORNINGS, most of the 22 million residents in the vast and densely packed Mexico City metropolitan area are on the move, commuting to work on crowded buses, Metro trains and suburban rail lines. Every day about 10 million personal vehicles cram the highways and side streets and, if the sky is not too smoggy, wealthy executives fly to work in private helicopters, landing on the rooftop helipads of downtown skyscrapers. Although known for its cultural institutions and more recently for its modern architecture — named World Design Capital 2018 by the International Council of Societies of Industrial Design — this sprawling metropolis remains a working-class city. An economic giant with a gross domestic product of more than $415 billion, it is one of the largest urban areas in the world based on economic output, accounting for about 22 percent of Mexico’s total MIXED MEDIA: Museo

Jumex in Nuevo Polanco

PHOTO: © MUSEO JUMEX

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TOWERING CITY:

Arcos Bosques, a postmodern complex in the downtown business district PHOTO: © MEXICO CITY TOURISM

COMING AND GOING

All U.S. citizens, including children, need a valid passport and tourist card to enter Mexico. U.S. citizens arriving by cruise ship and visiting a port for a day do not need a passport. Business travelers must file a special form which authorizes business activities but not employment for 30 days. Purposes besides tourism and business or stays of more than 180 days require a visa and U.S. passport.

national GDP. If Mexico City were a country, it would be the fifth-largest economy in Latin America, five times as large as Costa Rica’s and about the same size as Peru’s. The oldest capital city in the Americas, built in 1325 by the Aztecs on an island in ancient Lake Texcoco and occupied by Spain in the 1500s, it continues to evolve, even changing its official name last year. Known for two centuries within Mexico as DF (Distrito Federal, or Federal District), now the area of nearly 9 million residents within city limits is officially Ciudad de Mexico, or CDMX for short. CDMX is experiencing a business and tourism boom largely due to its strengthening urban economy, a worldwide interest in Mexican interior design and architecture, and the revitalization of city neighborhoods, or colonias. In recent years, as the city police force grew to almost 90,000, crime decreased considerably, especially the drug-related violence that once plagued the region, resulting in record numbers of visitors. Almost 30 million tourists arrived in 2016, an increase of almost 2 percent over 2015, also a record-breaking year, according to Miguel Torruco Marqués, director of tourism. Tourists staying in hotels in Mexico City in 2016 resulted in an economic impact of around $3.85 billion, 6 percent more than in 2015. Under Mayor Miguel Ángel Mancera, the city constructed new parks, improved industrial technology, started a strict biannual vehicle emission inspection program and began the reformulation of gasoline and diesel fuels. The Metrobús rapid transit and the Ecobici bike-sharing program contribute to efforts to encourage alternate, greener forms of transportation. Last December Mexico City hosted the sixth biennial C40 Mayors Summit, bringing together mayors, sustainability leaders and Fortune 500 executives from mega-cities all over the world. “It is no secret that in Mexico City we grapple with the twin problems of air pollution and traffic,” said Mayor Mancera to the large gathering at the Hilton Mexico City Reforma Hotel. “By expanding alternative transportation options, like our Bus Rapid Transport

LODGING HABITA HOTEL Part of Grupo Habita and a member of Design Hotels, the 32-room, four-suite property occupies a frosted glass cube with a ground-floor restaurant, fifth-floor open-air swimming pool and trendy rooftop bar. Ave. Presidente Masaryk 201, Polanco $$$ HOTEL CARLOTA Redesigned by Mexico City’s JSa Arquitectura, the hotel boasts 36 rooms furnished by Mexican interior designers, a courtyard with a pool, a great bar and restaurant, friendly staff, WiFi and complimentary bicycles. Río Amazonas 73, Cuauhtémoc $$$–$$$$ STARA HAMBURGO HOTEL A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the art-filled boutique hotel comprises two historic houses with original brick walls, 55 guestrooms with balconies, business center, roof garden restaurant and first-floor Luna Bistro. Calle Hamburgo 32, La Juárez $$$–$$$$

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DESIGNER COLLECTIONS: Blend Design concept store with designer products (top), and sweet treats at a food stand (bottom) PHOTOS: © ARACELI PAZ, © RON BERNTHAL

.1 d No place y t i ‘52 oC imes’ T Mexic k r Yo 017. e New for 2 t s on Th i l isit’ s to V e c a l P

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and subway systems, while also investing in cycling infrastructure, we are working to ease congestion in our roadways and our lungs.” Mexico’s political leaders, including President Enrique Peña Nieto as well as Mexican and American multinational firms with offices, plants and distribution networks in both countries, are troubled about the future business relationship between the United States and Mexico under the Trump administration. This was evident during my visit just after the U.S. election, when local business leaders expressed concern about how the new U.S. political landscape will affect Mexico’s burgeoning but still fragile economy, their concerns magnified when the value of the Mexican peso went into freefall immediately following the vote. Right now, however, Mexico City is on a roll.

Many of the buildings in El Centro, the historic center, have been beautifully restored. Pedestrian shopping streets have been created, and an army of street sweepers keep the district spotlessly clean. In the past several decades as Mexico City grew, its wealthy residents moved westward, building lavish homes in Polanco, Lomas de Chapultepec and Bosques de las Lomas, and more recently in Santa Fe, a distant but fast-growing business center. Santa Fe houses corporate office towers, luxury business hotels and Centro Santa Fe, the largest retail mall in Latin America. JW Marriott, Hilton, Westin, NH Collection and InterContinental operate properties here, and a new AC Hotel Santa Fe will open this year. The Mexican stock exchange, Bolsa Mexicana de Valores, is located here, as well as an expanding residential district and three college campuses, all part of this surreal-looking edge city 12 miles west of downtown. In Polanco high-end hotels, restaurants and residential mansions prospered for decades, and the newer Nuevo Polanco neighborhood now flourishes with development projects. Polanco’s Avenida Presidente Masaryk, with its exclusive fashion boutiques, jewelers, banks and high-end restaurants, resembles Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive. The Condesa and Roma Norte neighborhoods, perhaps the trendiest districts close to downtown, offer restaurants with valet parking, music clubs, late-night bars and, yes, irritating weekend traffic jams. The area entices visitors with renovated Spanish colonial buildings; lush parks with sculptured fountains; and design-driven cafés, bars, hotels and small office buildings. Even closer to downtown’s Reforma business district, La Juárez boasts new bars, art galleries, restaurants and shops, and the new Stara Hamburgo Hotel attracts an upscale clientele. San Rafael lies close to Reforma but maintains a residential calm and offers small theaters, cafés and restaurants. About six miles south of El Centro’s huge Zócalo — the largest public square in the Western Hemisphere — sits Coyoacán, a large, fashionable district containing mini-neighborhoods, each with its own diverse eateries and shops. Of course, not every Mexico City neighborhood offers a tree-lined sanctuary of peace and quiet. Most are working-class districts with few upscale amenities. Cars and trucks clutter their narrow streets, and food carts line the sidewalks offering pastries, sandwiches (tortas), dozens of taco varieties, salads, sweets and drinks from early morning to evening. If you choose carefully, you can enjoy a quick and delicious food cart breakfast, lunch or snack for $1–2.


BREAKFAST TREAT:

La Churrería El Moro (left), and Diego Iturbide PHOTOS: © EL MORO, © RON BERNTHAL

DINING

CHECKING IN WITH DIEGO ITURBIDE JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT -6 Phone code: Country code: 52 City code: 55 Currency: Peso Key industries: Banking, insurance, financial firms, architecture firms, construction, iron and steel, textiles, plastics, furniture, tourism and hospitality services, education and cultural attractions

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Spanish

Manager, La Churrería El Moro, Mexico City How long has La Churrería El Moro been in business? My family has been selling churros in Mexico City since 1933, when my grandfather, Francisco Iriarte, arrived here from Elizondo, a small town in Spain. The business is named after the fiestas in these Spanish towns, where an Arab known as El Moro sold churros from town to town in a cart. When Francisco noticed they did not sell churros in Mexico, he started selling them from a cart in the Zócalo, and after two years he opened a small shop in the city center at Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 42, Cuauhtémoc — a place that is still in operation, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Francisco died young, and his three brothers moved to Mexico to take care of the business, which has passed from generation to generation to become one of the great traditions in the Mexican capital. What exactly is a churro? Churros are a breakfast tradition in Mexico City. It is a thin, deep-fried dough stick dusted in sugar. It is crispy on the outside, warm and soft on the inside, and best dunked into a steaming cup of hot chocolate. We offer six styles of hot chocolate, ice cream and our amazing fresh churros.

Why did the company expand the business in recent years? The family noticed that as many neighborhoods in Mexico City became more developed, with new restaurants and snack places opening, it was time to open additional El Moro outlets with a new store design. It was a big challenge to add four more stores and keep the artisanal, handmade tradition of making churros. We wanted to grow the concept and perhaps expand one day into other countries with our unique Mexican company. The Mexico City firm Cadena + Asociados, which created our new stores’ design, won first place in Restaurant Concept Design at the International Interior Design Association’s Best Interiors Latin America competition. What changes do you see now in Mexico City? I see with my own eyes the city is getting safer, and it is fantastic how many tourists we get year-round now. Mexico City is filled with new museums and parks, and there are many festivals every month which are suitable for a casual, fun place like El Moro. Many Mexican people are traveling more. They are making a better income, and their expectations are higher when it comes to the appearance of stores and restaurants. We are giving all the people a clean and friendly place to eat. We are always busy, and there is usually a line waiting for the fresh churros.

CONTRAMAR Chef Andrés Barragán helms the seafood restaurant specializing in fresh tuna, shrimp and octopus, trucked daily from Mexico’s Pacific and Gulf coasts. Try the coconut flan and fig tart desserts. Lunch only; reserve early. Calle Durango 200, Colonia Roma, Cuauhtémoc $$–$$$ J BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS James Beard Outstanding Chef José Andrés’ first restaurant outside the United States integrates his legendary Spanish classics with Mexican favorites in a tantalizing small plates menu. Open daily for lunch and dinner. W Mexico City, Campos Elíseos 252, Polanco $$$–$$$$ LUNA BISTRO Excellent entrées by Chef Javier Ramirez include rack of lamb with mint gremolata and Kalamata tapenade, and crusted grouper Provençal plus innovative risottos, soups and salads. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Stara Hamburgo Hotel, Calle Hamburgo 32, La Juárez $$

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DIVERSIONS

While the phrase “Mexico’s Moment”— MeMo — is used to generate tourist interest in the entire country, the acronym can also apply to Mexico City’s cutting-edge architecture, as in “Mexico City Modern.” Although Mexican architects like Luis Barragán, Felix Candela and Pedro Ramirez defined the city’s great 20th-century buildings, international architects are contributing to its stunning new projects. Museo Jumex, an award-winning private art museum designed by British architect David Chipperfield, occupies a marble, stainless steel, concrete and glass structure. Opened in the Nuevo Polanco neighborhood in 2013, it offers rotating exhibitions, conferences and performances. The anvil-shaped Museo Soumaya stands across the street, presenting a striking windowless façade composed of 16,000 reflective, hexagonal aluminum tiles. A gift from Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim to his late wife, Soumaya Domit, and designed by his son-in-law, noted architect Fernando Romero, the museum showcases more than 6,000 pieces of Latin American art. Although muralist Diego Rivera was born in Guanajuato, he spent most of his life in the capital, along with his larger-than-life marriages to the artist Frida Kahlo. View Rivera’s epic-sized murals in four locations within walking distance in the historic center. At the Palacio Nacional, a mural painted between 1929 and 1935 wraps around a wall and shows the history of Mexico in vibrant colors. At the nearby Secretaría de Educación Pública, a mural covers two levels of the interior courtyard; and the Museo Mural Diego Rivera houses one of his most famous murals, Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central Park, painted in 1947.

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CULTURAL CAPITAL:

Diego Rivera painting (above left), Museo Soumaya (above right), and the Palacio de Bellas Artes (left) PHOTOS: © DANILO MONGIELLO | DREAMSTIME .COM, © MEXICO CITY TOURISM

INFO TO GO

The Palacio de Bellas Artes displays Man, Controller of the Universe, which Rivera painted as a recreation of his Man at the Crossroads mural, commissioned by the Rockefeller family for Rockefeller Center in New York City. The Rockefellers destroyed the original mural in 1934 as Rivera was working on it because its subject matter related to the Soviet Union. The Palacio de Bellas Artes also contains murals by David Alfaro Siqueiros, José Clemente Orozco and Rufino Tamayo. You can visit Rivera and Kahlo’s studio and house, constructed in the 1930s in the San Ángel neighborhood. Also visit the house and studio of Luis Barragán, a pioneer in Mexico City’s modern architecture movement. Casa Luis Barragán, constructed in 1948, became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004, the only individual property in Latin America to achieve the honor. Barragán’s influence in global architecture is well-known, and his house remains the way it was at his death in 1988.

Benito Juárez International Airport (MEX) lies about 10 miles from the business district. Terminal 1 was remodeled in 2006 but is often crowded and chaotic. Terminal 2, used by Aeromexico and its SkyTeam carriers, opened in 2008 and is easier to navigate. Travel between the terminals requires taxi, shuttle bus or monorail. For late-night arrivals or early-morning departures, consider staying at NH Collection Airport T2 Hotel in Terminal 2. The British firm Foster+Partners and Mexico’s Fernando Romero Enterprise won the competition to design Mexico City’s new 5-million-square-foot, $9.2 billion, LEED Platinum airport, about three miles from the current airport. It will be one of the world’s largest airports when it opens in 2020.



stateside | SAN DIEGO

Sunny Side Up New developments energize economic optimism in San Diego. BY SHARON KING HOGE WITH GLORIOUS BEACHES, reliably mild weather and world-class attractions, San Diego is often called America’s Finest City. The country’s 17th-largest metropolitan area is also a business hub, and no matter whom you ask, the answer is always the same: The local economy’s top three sectors are innovation, tourism and the military. New developments are reinvigorating all three. With visitors bringing $10 billion a year into the local economy, tourism remains the city’s second-biggest factor. The renowned San Diego Zoo, Sea World, the USS Midway Museum — along with the seashores and golf courses — continue to attract thousands of domestic and international visitors each year, principally from

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China, Mexico, Canada and the United Kingdom. Recently built underground parking garages that expand parks and open space further enhance the urban atmosphere. Brewery bus tours represent an emerging draw. Generating $851 million in sales last year and employing 4,500 workers, craft beers are booming, with 114 homegrown breweries organizing trips and tasting events. Stone Brewing, the largest, invites guests to its restaurant and tap room and is currently building a beer-themed hotel next to its major plant.

CHEERS!:

Stone Brewing main dining room and bar (top) and beer pour (bottom) PHOTOS: © STONE BREWING


d zoo, enowne r e h t f cre Site o ,200-a 1 ’s o g e i er than San D is bigg k r a P . l Park Balboa Centra ’s k r o New Y COOL CATS:

Zookeeper feeding cheetahs at the San Diego Zoo PHOTO: © WOLLERTZ | DREAMSTIME.COM

SCENIC DRIVES

This will join other new hotels now under construction downtown after a post-recession lag. Perennially ranked among the country’s top five destinations for meetings and events, the San Diego Convention Center brings an annual $1 billion into the regional economy. With the immensely popular annual Comic-Con convention straining its facilities, the tourist bureau, hotel and restaurant association, city and port authority are reviewing potential plans for expansion. Earlier this year, the city shelved the potential construction of a new downtown stadium when the San Diego Chargers football team made the decision to relocate to Los Angeles. The military sector runs a close second to tourism. Home port of the Pacific Fleet and one of the country’s largest naval bases, San Diego supplies support services from housing and food to medical care and counseling. With military forces shrinking in numbers amid a shift to tactical strategizing, the city is seizing on new technological opportunities to attract more government investment to the city. And military advances are only one aspect of the blossoming business innovation in biotech, medicine, life science, engineering, energy, clean green, solar and HVAC — startup businesses which expanded exponentially during the past 15 years. In contrast to Stanford, which attracts major Silicon Valley angel investors, San Diego boasts a network of community-based centers providing guidance and mentorship to grassroots

innovators. Stoked by the preponderance of military veterans and the University of California at La Jolla, which attracts many Asian students, the region is ripe with ideas that transform into viable businesses. Industry is sustained by a cross-border labor force that enables engineering and manufacturing resources south of the border in Baja to buttress the innovative activity up north. To facilitate that exchange, the city approaches the locale not as two nations but as one Cali-Baja region and is making efforts to build bridges and ports of entry. Fortifying development, a city charter passed last year dedicates a specific percentage of revenue to infrastructure, targeting improved roads, increased water and sewer capacity, and water recycling. A seawater desalination plant recently came online to ensure access to the fresh water crucial not only to the population but also to manufacturing and biotech. Rebounding after the recession, prices are back up, in some cases to record highs. Neighborhoods are hitting their stride, particularly in the downtown area. The same attributes that attract tourists also appeal to residents who appreciate the easy access to hiking, bicycling, swimming and climbing. That outdoor culture draws free thinkers who also make great employees, luring companies to relocate here. “It’s a beautiful, innovative, creative city,” a Chamber of Commerce spokesperson explains, “a place where you’d like to live and work.”

While beer commands the city proper, nearby wineries offer attractive daytrips. Drive north on Route 15 past citrus groves and vine-covered hillsides through Escondido to Temecula, where antique shops and wine-tasting bars await behind the Western frontier façades of Old Town. A half dozen local, family-owned wineries lie east of town along Rancho California Road. Sample a full line of varietals and vintages at Bel Vino. Trendy Miramonte is apt to offer live entertainment for those sipping wines it calls “adventurous and succulent.” Along with its award-winning wines, Callaway Winery’s Meritage Restaurant offers farm-to-table meals and panoramic views. Thornton Winery is designed like a French château, and early California-style Mount Palomar Winery overlooks the valley. South of the border explore Valle de Guadalupe, an emerging region of up-market wines and dining. Locals recommend taking the Tecate border crossing to a ride through rolling hills on Mexico Highway 3. L.A. Cetto is one of the largest producers; Paralelo boasts a fruity Sauvignon Blanc; and 20-year-old, family-run Casa de Piedra produces some of Mexico’s finest wines.

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9–5 | BUENOS AIRES

Pulse of Business Entertain clients to the Latin beat of Buenos Aires. BY JACK GUY

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DOCKSIDE: A TRIP TO THE BUSTLING METROPOLIS of Buenos Aires opens a window into a collision Puente de la Mujer of cultures. The Argentine capital vibrates to the Latin beats of tango and cumbia drifting footbridge in Puerto from the bars and taxis which line Haussmann-style boulevards that could have been lifted Madero straight from Paris. PHOTO: © PABLO CARIDAD | Soccer, steaks, wine and tango all come to mind when you think of Argentina, and DREAMSTIME.COM Buenos Aires presents innumerable choices. Fanatical soccer fans, the best steak and wine in the world and mesmerizing tango performances are woven into the fabric of this bewitching city. Most visitors arrive in this fascinating South The former docks are now home to American capital at Ministro Pistarini Internathe spectacular Puente de la Mujer, a tional Airport, known locally as Ezeiza International Airport, about 14 miles south of the city center. rotating footbridge designed by Spanish Many of the 9 million passengers who pass through architect Santiago Calatrava, and some the airport hire an executive taxi run by the Manuel Tienda Leon Bus Co. to get into town for around $38, of the best entertainment in the city. or a Taxi Ezeiza for around $30. You can also choose to travel by shuttle bus for about $12, but you’ll have to find your way from the terminal to your hotel. That could mean a ride in a black and yellow city taxi or a trip on the Subte metro system for the more adventurous. Make like visiting dignitaries and check in at the 5-star Alvear Palace Hotel, which


just opened a series of opulent rooftop suites. Inviting your clients to the newly opened Alvear Lounge for lunch meetings will certainly impress, thanks to the iconic status of the hotel, and the views over the Recoleta neighborhood are incredible. The perfect spot for a power breakfast is Club del Progreso in Monserrat. Generations of Argentinean presidents have dined amid its antique interiors where powerbrokers have cut deals since its foundation in 1852. Treat your clients to breakfast or hire one of the salons for a private lunch meeting. Both the Salon Roque Sáenz Peña and the Salon Rojo feature cozy rooms that can accommodate a maximum of 20 people. To let off some steam after long meetings, head to the regenerated Puerto Madero area. The former docks are now home to the spectacular Puente de la Mujer, a rotating footbridge designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, and some of the best entertainment in the city. Among the attractions is Casino Buenos Aires, something of an oddity. Due to state gambling laws that prohibit casinos, the enterprising owners moored their casino boat in national waters to avoid legislation. Thanks to some creative thinking, you and your clients can enjoy 150 gaming tables and more than 1,500 slot machines. If you’re lucky enough to visit during soccer season, bag an executive box for a Boca Juniors game at the world-renowned stadium La Bombonera. Your colleagues will be excited about seeing one of the most famous teams in South America … unless they are fans of archrivals River Plate, of course. For a different kind of sporting atmosphere, you could always determine whether there is an event at the polo field in the Palermo district or horse racing at the Buenos Aires hippodrome. If you’re looking for a more relaxing day, visit the National Museum of Fine Arts or the Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires. Business travelers should know Buenos Aires comes alive at night, leaving plenty of time to enjoy restaurants and bars even after a long day of meetings. It’s not uncommon for Argentineans to make dinner reservations around 11 p.m. before heading for a nightcap around 2 a.m. When it comes to food, meat rules the day. There really is no better way of getting into local culture than sipping on an exquisite Malbec as you enjoy huge, tender cuts of meat fresh from the grill, or parilla. Buenos Aires is full of restaurants offering this experience, but head to Don Julio to enjoy the best of the best in style at this atmospheric venue in Palermo. Take in some tango at Cachirulo, a traditional milonga where fans of the dance come to watch and take part. Take to the floor if you have practiced your steps, or sit back and enjoy some drinks as the action unfolds around you. While many milongas don’t get going until the small hours, Cachirulo fills up around 11 p.m. Entertaining clients doesn’t have to be stressful, and Buenos Aires is full of spots that make everyone feel special. From awe-inspiring meetings venues to after-hours bonding time, chances are you’ll keep your clients happy on your next trip to the Argentinean capital.

SLEEK AND CHIC: Alvear Palace Hotel’s newly opened Alvear Lounge (above), and tango in front of a café (left) PHOTOS: © ALVEAR PALACE HOTEL, © CHRISTIN FARMER | DREAMSTIME.COM

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after 5 | LOS ANGELES

L.A. Story Go where the action is in the entertainment capital. BY ALLIE MOORE

SEE AND BE SEEN: Break Room 86 (left), and Amelie at Ahmanson Theatre (right) PHOTOS: © DYLAN + JENI/BREAK ROOM 86, © AHMANSON THEATRE

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under one roof at Break Room 86, the massive menu of cocktails will take WHEN THE SUN SETS over the Pacific Ocean, the City the edge off the impending anxiety. For a more covert cocktail experience, of Angels seamlessly transforms into a devil’s playground attempt access into Lock & Key, a speakeasy that only allows entry after one as bars and restaurants flash on their neon lights and selects the correct doorknob at the entrance. cater to the city’s elite. Spare yourself the L.A. traffic and Nowhere are L.A. style and elegance more evident than at Bar Marmont spend the after-work hours schlepping among the sprawlin Hollywood. This swanky bar in the ing city’s places to be seen and Spare yourself the L.A. traffic and legendary Chateau Marmont Hotel is a possibly spot a few A-listers. haven for Hollywood’s heavy hitters. After a day of conferences spend the after-work hours schlepping West Hollywood (also known as WeHo) at the downtown convention among the sprawling city’s places to be is considered Boys Town and home of the center, scale the stairs to the appropriately named Perch, seen and possibly spot a few A-listers. annual LA Pride parade each June. Sip some of the city’s best wine at Vinoteque a rooftop bar with cinematic or rub elbows with fellow imbibers at The views of the L.A. skyline. When hunger strikes, cab Abbey, an electric gay restaurant/bar/dance party. over to Katsuya on West Olympic for a satisfying sushi For a spot of live theater, the Ahmanson Theatre downtown and Hollydinner, or opt for the cooked variety at Rock’n Fish wood’s Pantages Theatre host the latest stage plays straight from Broadway, right next door. Properly fueled, challenge colleagues while the Kirk Douglas Theatre in Culver City features alternative and to a few rounds of pinball at EightyTwo, a barcade experimental examples of modern-day theater. For a good laugh, make a that serves Mason jar mixed drinks. point to catch some improv at The Second City, The iO West Theater (both A few blocks west lies Koreatown, a funky neighin Hollywood) or Improv LA (West Hollywood). borhood with infinite opportunities to dine and drink. When visiting the epicenter of entertainment, grab a front-row seat, wait Although two of any person’s greatest fears — high for the director’s cue and … action! school and performing karaoke — come together

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chefs

AT HOME IN THE AIR United Airlines Executive Chef Gerry McLoughlin takes his extensive culinary talents to the sky. BY KIMBERLY KROL

PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES

GT Members Section AS SENIOR MANAGER of food and beverage design and executive chef for United Airlines, Gerry McLoughlin ensures all the culinary options on the carrier taste exceptional, even at 35,000 feet, including those served on the airline’s recently launched Polaris business-class concept. Unique touches in the new premium cabin include chef-designed menus, tempting snack options available throughout the flight and an enticing variety of desserts. Mimosa and Bloody Mary carts will delight passengers on morning flights. McLoughlin followed completion of his culinary degree with a five-year apprenticeship at Dublin’s iconic The Shelbourne hotel. McLoughlin’s more than 30 years of culinary management experience also took him to Chicago’s well-known The Drake hotel and The Metropolitan Club. As a member of the American Culinary Federation, McLoughlin oversees worldwide menu development for United Airlines. United Airlines is also the official airline of The Trotter Project, working with Trotter alumni to develop exciting menus for flights. The Trotter Project unites budding talent in the culinary arts and hospitality industries through a variety of mentorship programs.

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/MENUS? One of the best aspects about my job is I have the opportunity to travel the world and taste the cuisines and flavors of the destinations we fly from. Each destination brings new aspects to the table — quite literally — and I enjoy working with the team to incorporate these great new flavors in the onboard menu.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? Chef Charlie Trotter; I can honestly tell you the best meal I’ve ever had was at his restaurant. He took pride in breaking the status quo and was extremely adventurous in his cuisine. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Hong Kong blends the flavors of East and West with a combination of amazing European foods with the diversity of some absolutely fantastic street food. It’s a beautiful blend of cultures.

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WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? My mother — my first culinary experience was at her apron strings. Her passion was to cook with fresh ingredients and the flavors that resonate from them guided me to search for new ingredients to cook with at home and in the air.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? People are really moving more toward handheld items they can enjoy on the go — real food with bold flavors where they can broaden their cultural and culinary horizons. United Airlines united.com

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neighborhoods | MUNICH

Mellow in Munich Get to know this historic city’s laid-back Maxvorstadt area. BY DEBRA BOKUR WALK IN THE PARK:

Old Botanical Garden Park (left), and Fountain of Neptune (right)

PHOTOS: © LUISA VALLON FUMI | DREAMSTIME .COM, © PHOTO20AST | DREAMSTIME.COM

GERMANY MUNICH

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IF PAST TRIPS TO MUNICH left the impression the offerings in this colorful and treasured German city are limited to mechanical clocks and historic beer halls, it’s time to take another look. Boasting two major universities, the warm and welcoming central Maxvorstadt neighborhood is notable for its walkability, eclectic museums and cluster of interesting new hotels and eateries. The neighborhood borders the city’s vast English Garden, larger in both scope and scale than Central Park. Seven academic centers, including two major universities, along with a compact museum area make this district a favorite with locals, students and visitors. Noteworthy monuments include the Neptunbrunnen (Fountain of Neptune) in the Old Botanical Garden Park; Karolinenplatz’s towering obelisk; and the Scholl Memorial, commemorating

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students Hans and Sophie Scholl, members of the Nazi resistance group White Rose who died in Munich-Stadelheim Prison. Among the selection of outstanding museums, the Alte Pinakothek houses works by European masters and the world’s largest assembled collection of Rubens; the recently renovated Neue Pinakothek exhibits 19th-century paintings and sculptures. Enjoy newer, cutting-edge works by contemporary artists at the Pinakothek der Moderne and at Museum Brandhorst. For lovers of classical sculpture, the Glyptothek is definitely an address worth visiting. Nearly completely destroyed during World War II, this restored museum gem houses Germany’s most comprehensive collection of Greek and Roman sculptures. Many of the exhibition’s pieces were discovered during excavations on the Greek island of Aegina at the site of the Temple of Aphaia. Highlights include the Barberini Faun, dating to about 220 B.C. and discovered in 1624 in Rome; and Kouros of Tenea, a sculpture of a young man who wears — for a Greek statue, at least — an uncharacteristically broad smile. Relax and toast your day of exploration at James T. Hunt at 32 Schellingstrasse, Theresa Restaurant and Bar at 31 Theresienstrasse or popular Katopazzo at 87 Amalienstrasse. For brunch, lunch or dinner, dine like a local on the innovative menu at Cantine Cantona. While strolling allows for the best perspective of monuments and architecture (and the most direct access to cafés and bars) several U-Bahn metro stations in Maxvorstadt and Tram 27 make it easy to access and explore.


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friends & family | FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

When in Friuli Wine and dine your way through Italy’s under-the-radar region. BY MICHELLE LYN

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BEYOND THE GILDED LUSTER of Venice lies a melting pot of culture and gastronomy ripe for discovery. Friuli-Venezia Giulia — Italy’s most northeastern region, which shares a border with Austria and Slovenia — is a gastronomic gem that produces much of the country’s highly sought-after wine, cheese and prosciutto. A mere 90 minutes outside the Floating City, Friuli (as it is more commonly called by locals), easily explored by car, serves as the perfect destination to wine and dine several days away once business wraps up. Towns lie close together, and each offers a unique experience that represents the diversity of the area. Boutique B&Bs abound, ranging from rustic to elegant, yet all with distinct personalities of their own. Although one of Italy’s smaller regions, Friuli has always maintained a strategic role connecting Italy to Central and Eastern Europe. With wildly diverse geography for such a small area, the mountainous north juts up against the Alps; the eastern section borders Slovenia and, although quite hilly, produces much of the wine; the southern border lines the Adriatic Sea; and the west becomes more shallow and sandy as it eases into the tourist territory of Veneto. Roman origins laid the foundation for Friuli, but influences from the AustroHungarian Empire firmly remain, evident in the rich culinary scene. Divided into four regions — Pordenone, Udine, Gorizia and Trieste — Friuli proves an interesting region to explore from architectural, geographic and gastronomic perspectives.

PICTURE PERFECT:

Cividale del Friuli with Ponte del Diavolo over the Natisone River PHOTO: © MILOSK50 | DREAMSTIME.COM

nd rink a Eat, d ur rip yo road t rough way th dup-an ’s y l a t I t touris coming ation. destin


STAR CITY:

Aerial view of Palmanova, the star-shaped city (left), and its main square and cathedral (above) PHOTOS: © FABRY974 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LIANEM | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING

Palmanova, in the province of Udine, is the perfect town to begin your journey. A concentric city built in the shape of a star, it was designed to be a Venetian military station on the eastern frontier as protection from the Ottoman Empire at the end of the 16th century. Designed by Vincenzo Scamozzi, Palmanova featured all the military innovation available at the time. A fortress built in the shape of a nine-pointed star, Palmanova’s ramparts protruded so all points could defend each other by offering opportunities to crossfire and attack from multiple angles. A moat encircled the town, and it was then said to be an ideal Renaissance city. The city’s founding date of 1593 commemorated the victory over the Ottoman Turks in the War of Cyprus, and 100 years later Napoleon led a second phase of construction to create an additional layer of fortification. Today, Palmanova shines as a well-preserved gem, perfect for history buffs, anchored by a town square and quaint cafés like Caffetteria Torinese and delectable pastry shops like Nonna Pallina. Tourists are a welcome sight in this small town, received with open arms by proud locals eager to share the history of their unique home. Allow time to chat, and should you find yourself at Al Gambero, be prepared to visit with the affable owner over a glass of Prosecco as you sample his sun-dried tomatoes and olives, morning or night. The next stop on your tour of Friuli should be the town of Cormòns in the province of Gorizia, where roughly 10 percent of the population is ethnically Slovene. The

D’Osvaldo family is rooted in tradition here, as it has been curing hams since 1940. In Italy, the two most widely known prosciuttos are prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto di San Daniele, yet in Friuli, prosciutto D’Osvaldo reigns supreme. Importing the process of smoking hams to preserve the meat from Eastern Europe, Giacomo D’Osvaldo began a tradition that would be passed from father to son for four generations. In an antique villa that dates back to 1800, guests can visit the D’Osvaldo Prosciutto Factory, which doubles as the family home, and see how the ham is preserved and smoked among a balanced mixture of cherry and laurel logs, which add a hint of sweetness to the prosciutto. Deep in the hills of Cormòns, in an area dubbed the Collio, La Subida is a rustic, family-run eco-resort that boasts a humble, Michelin-starred restaurant among cabins in the forest. Owned and operated by the amiable Sirk family, La Subida offers an experience akin to visiting relatives who take good care of you from the moment you arrive. La Subida’s rustic wooden cabins feature modern amenities and bring the outdoors in with floor-to-ceiling windows. Dinner at the onsite Trattoria is a must, as the family makes most items from scratch and offers an exceptional presentation of regional cuisine. Josko Sirk, the patriarch of the family, is passionate about vinegar making, producing wine vinegar made with whole grapes on his property. After three to four years of sharpening in small casks, Sirk’s vinegar is sulfite-free and bottled without any filtering processes or tampering, which

ORSONE B&B This chic, four-room boutique hotel brings New York sensibility to the region. A casual taverna and upscale restaurant make it easy to stay put once you check in. Via Darnazzacco 63, Cividale del Friuli $$$ LA SUBIDA Nestled in the forest near the border of Slovenia, the familyrun eco-resort boasts two restaurants on the property and offers Vespas to explore the countryside. Via Subida 52, Cormòns $$ VENICA & VENICA CASA Choose from six rooms and two apartments in this cozy B&B on the sprawling Venica & Venica estate. Swimming, tennis and biking keep guests busy when not wine tasting on the veranda. Dolegna del Collio, Gorizia $$

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DINING

LA FRASCA This roadside trattoria serves elevated dishes in an authentic, unpretentious space. Owner and local vintner Valter Scarbolo expertly pairs dishes with his namesake wines. Viale Grado 50, Lauzacco $$$ ORSONE RISTORANTE Anchored by a blazing hearth, the restaurant creates elegant dining with expert use of local ingredients. Guests watch the chef prepare dishes through a window that takes up half the space. Via Darnazzacco 63, Cividale del Friuli $$$ TRATTORIA AL CACCIATORE DELLA SUBIDA Enjoy fine dining that feels like you’re having dinner at a friend’s home. The Sirk family, which owns and operates all aspects of the property, offers genuine hospitality. Via Subida 52, Cormòns $$$

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he will proudly tell you during a tour of his vinegar house. The next day, as you make your way north through Friuli, head to La Frasca for lunch at vintner Valter Scarbolo’s restaurant near Lauzacco. Just off the main highway, its cozy and inviting ambience makes it easy to spend four to five hours lingering over 12 delectable courses paired with Scarbolo’s first-rate wines. Moving on to Cividale del Friuli, check into Orsone, a luxurious concept that consists of a bed and breakfast, a taverna and a restaurant. The vision of mother-son restaurateurs Lidia and Joe Bastianich, Orsone sits among the family’s vineyards and offers the perfect respite in an idyllic setting. Before dinner, venture into the heart of Cividale del Friuli. Park outside the city center and walk over the Ponte del Diavolo (the Devil’s Bridge) that crosses the Natisone River, forming a picturesque ravine as you enter the town. Head toward Caffè del Corso and rub elbows with locals over an evening spritz, the ultimate Aperol cocktail and popular Italian aperitivo. Dinner at Orsone is elegant and comfortable, especially if you are seated by the roaring fireplace. An interna-

tional staff offers perfectly choreographed service, and Bastianich wines complement each course. The best aspect of dinner at Orsone: You can pace yourself and enjoy the ambience since you simply need to walk upstairs and are home for the night. After a hearty breakfast at Orsone the next day (make sure you try the torta di ricotta), make your way to Dolegna del Collio, where the Venica family created a sprawling estate part winery, part B&B and part family home. More than 80 years ago the family began growing vines and fruit trees together. The farm sustained the family’s needs first, with the excess sold to restaurants in the area. Eventually, future generations discovered a way to tap into the natural biodiversity of their crops and create balance and unique character in their notably complex wines. Giampaolo Venica represents the Venica & Venica brand globally, bringing Friulian wines to the masses while also encouraging guests to taste his family’s wines and stay at their picturesque B&B. While not only offering the perfect base to explore other wineries in the area, Venica is also an expert ambassador for the region, which won’t remain under the radar much longer.

IN THE HILLS:

Dolegna del Collio (left), and Venica & Venica wine barrels (right) PHOTOS: © VENICA & VENICA

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at Venice Marco Polo Airport, where you can rent a car and drive less than 90 minutes into the region. Flights also arrive into Trieste–Friuli-Venezia Giulia Airport, where you can also rent a car — the best way to explore the area.


TAKE STEPS TO END CANCER.

www.lightthenight.org


bucket list | COSTA

RICA

Cycle of Life Witness the migratory movements of sea turtles in Costa Rica. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

UNDER A CLEAR, DARK SKY, lit with a bright moon and what seems to be millions of twinkling stars, she pulls herself out of the ocean and onto the beach. Over the course of the next few hours, she’ll crawl up the beach until she finds her spot, dig a nest a few yards deep, lay about 100 eggs, work tirelessly to cover and camouflage the nest from waiting predators and finally turn around and crawl back into her ocean home, caressed by the cool waters that wash over her tired muscles, teary eyes and smooth shell. This scene plays out time and time again by endangered green sea turtles on the beaches of Tortuguero (“Region of Turtles”) on the northeastern Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. The 22 miles of beaches in this region, part of the Tortuguero National Park, are considered the most important nesting beaches in the Western Hemisphere for the green sea turtles; they share the beach with leatherback, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles that lay nests here as well. According to the Sea Turtle Conservancy, a not-for-profit organization that monitors sea turtle nesting within Tortuguero National Park, 45,748 green sea turtle nests were laid in 2016, and 794 tagged green sea turtles returned to the beaches to lay their eggs. Add to that the 89 nests laid by leatherbacks (11 tagged turtles returned) and 43 hawksbill nests (13 tagged turtles returned), and the total number of nests laid in 2016 reaches 45,880. Sea turtle conservation is not new in Costa Rica and, in fact, has been relevant for nearly 60 years. In 1956 Dr. Archie Carr published The Windward Road: Adventures of a Naturalist on Remote TO THE SEA: Sea turtle crawling from the beach to the sea in Tortuguero National Park PHOTO: © JARNOGZ | DREAMSTIME.COM

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Caribbean Shores, detailing sea turtles in Costa Rica and the challenges they faced in that era. According to the STC, “Through his research, teaching and writing, Dr. Carr is responsible for accumulating and distributing much of what is known about the biology and life cycle of sea turtles. He is credited by many for bringing the first international attention to the plight of marine turtles.” In response to Dr. Carr’s book, Joshua Powers founded the STC (originally the Caribbean Conservation Corp.) in 1959; Dr. Carr served as scientific director until his death in 1987 and was known as the world’s leading authority on sea turtles. Today the STC continues Dr. Carr’s legacy by protecting sea turtles along Costa Rica’s Caribbean coastline through monitoring nesting trends, growth rates and reproductive success. Recognizing it takes a village — literally, in this case — the STC works in tandem with Tortuguero villagers by hiring them to monitor the beaches and help protect Costa Rica’s sea turtles. Through an STC training program, villagers are issued government permits authorizing them to lead nightly turtle-watching excursions during the nesting high season (July through October) and are the only guides authorized to do so. During the nesting season, an estimated 100,000 to 150,000 visitors trek through the jungles of Costa Rica annually to visit Tortuguero National Park to witness the sea turtles make their pilgrimage to lay eggs. Though the park’s beaches stretch for 22 miles, just five miles are accessible to the public for authorized nest viewing; the other 17 miles remain off limits — except for the sea turtles, of course. When darkness falls, small groups of people quietly walk along the beach looking for signs of tracks leading out of the ocean and onto the sand. The only lights shining on the beach are the red flashlights used by the guides; the red lights don’t interfere with the turtles’ navigation. If the timing is right and the stars align for these groups, a sea turtle (or two, or 10) will be nesting, and the natural cycle continues. The luckiest visitors will not only see a sea turtle lay her nest but perhaps even watch a bale of baby sea turtles hatch and make their way to the ocean to begin their life journeys. In addition to nighttime viewings, the organization offers eco-volunteer adventures. For one, two or three weeks between March and October, eco-volunteers 18 years and older are invited to assist the STC field team with research and monitoring, as well as enjoy free time to explore the area. Three levels of accommodations range from dorm-style living to eco-lodges, such as the all-inclusive Pachira Lodge across the river from the village of Tortuguero. For generations to come, sea turtles will continue to make their migration back to the beaches of Tortuguero National Park, back to where they themselves hatched, and will continue to lay their nests there just as their ancestors have for generations past — under clear, dark skies, lit with a bright moon and seemingly millions of twinkling stars overhead.

ith the losely w c d e k r o ational vancy w guero N Conser u t le r t o r T u h aT stablis acres The Se ent to e 46,900 m n s r e e s s v o a p Rican g k encom eaches. Costa the par y a d esting b o n T . le t 0 r 7 u t n 19 of sea Park i 2 miles 2 s t c e t and pro

PILGRIMAGE: A Sea Turtle Conservancy research assistant uses a red light so as to not disturb the turtle while making its nest (above), and research assistants and volunteers excavate a nest (left). PHOTOS: © RALPH PACE

INFO TO GO

Visitors can reach Tortuguero via a 30-minute charter flight from Juan Santamaría International Airport or a canal boat ride (90 minutes to two hours) through the jungles of Costa Rica, a terrific introduction to the area. Be on the lookout for crocodiles, water-walking lizards and myriad birds during the boat ride.

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kicking back | TURKEY’S

BLACK SEA COAST

Seaside Vibe Look to the breezy beaches, coves and villages of Turkey’s Black Sea coast. BY RICHARD NEWTON

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THE GREAT CITY OF İSTANBUL represents a vital crossroads of trade and culture, though most people think primarily of only one axis: east-west, Asia and Europe. Here the two continents meet — or divide — depending on your perspective. But there is also another axis: south-north, linking the Mediterranean to the Black Sea. In our perception of Turkey, we tend to neglect the Black Sea, but 22 miles northwest of İstanbul, on the shore of that significant body of water, geography is currently being reshaped. Crinkled, forested hills are being leveled and wetlands filled in to create a flat expanse of more than 17,000 acres. This is the site of İstanbul’s new airport, projected to begin operating in 2018. With six runways and the world’s largest terminal under a single roof, the $36 billion megaproject will shift İstanbul’s — and Turkey’s — center of gravity. The Black Sea coast will be truly on the world map. The Black Sea coastline stretches from Turkey’s border with Bulgaria to the border with Georgia along hundreds of miles of beaches and

PENINSULAR PORT:

Town of Amasra on the Black Sea coast PHOTO: © XANTANA | DREAMSTIME.COM

ey, s Turk Beside ntries her cou t o e v i f Sea: Black e h t r e bord ania, ia, Rom Bulgar a and , Russi e n i a r Uk a. Georgi


LODGING

ANEMON SAMSUN HOTEL Featuring stylish rooms in a seafront location with an adjacent shopping mall and close to downtown, this property offers one of the best options in the city. Yeni Mahalle Çarşamba Caddesi 52, Canik, Samsun $$$ HILTON GARDEN INN TRABZON Out of town but just a short taxi ride from the main attractions, the Hilton offers spacious rooms and suites; opt for a sea view. Barbaros Hayrettin Pasa Sokak 35, Akçaabat, Trabzon $$$ NORTHDOOR HOTEL AMASRA Situated on the waterfront, convenient for both town and beach, the Northdoor boasts attractive rooms, good service and excellent facilities. Turgut Işik Caddesi 78, Amasra $$

coves, pine-clad headlands and formidable cliffs. In contrast to the arid, sun-bleached tourist resorts of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, the Black Sea coast scenically resembles the U.S. Pacific Northwest, with weather to match. The city of Samsun, roughly midway along the coast, makes a good staging post. The city itself, despite a long and complicated history, is now a modern sprawl with few attractions, though it holds a special place in Turkish history, for it was from here Mustafa Kemal Atatürk initiated Turkey’s War of Independence in 1919. The Gazi Museum commemorates that important event and is worth a visit. The strategic position that proved so crucial to the success of Atatürk’s military campaign makes Samsun a logical base for modern tourists. From here you can travel west along the warmer, sunnier stretch of coastline or east into cooler, damper climes. Going west, the little city of Sinop, the oldest part of which is enfolded by formidable medieval walls, sits picturesquely on an isthmus jutting out into the sea. Sinop Archaeological Museum provides a window onto the city’s many-layered history.

The 200-mile road journey from Sinop to Amasra is endlessly scenic. Mostly the road snakes along the shoreline, with occasional diversions inland. You’ll pass few significant towns along the way, just a succession of attractive, red-roofed villages. After a leisurely half-day drive, you’ll arrive at the old port of Amasra, huddled tightly on a headland. Homer mentioned the original settlement in The Iliad, and subsequently the Romans, the Byzantines and the Genoese made their mark. Amasra Castle, the main historic attraction, incorporates elements from all three periods. But the greater lure is the town itself, picturesque from all angles and indented with a beautiful sandy beach. Despite the town’s undoubted attractions, the tourism industry remains relatively modest. The colorful wooden fishing boats hauled out in the lee of the old battlements are not there for mere show. This remains a working fishing port, and you can enjoy the benefit in the excellent fish restaurants. East of Samsun, halfway to the Georgian border, lies the city of Trabzon which, under its former name of Trebizond, was once the center of a great empire and an important stop along the fabled Silk Road. Although modern Trabzon evolved into

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SACRED SITES:

Ancient Amasra Castle gate (left), and the Hagia Sophia in Trabzon (right) PHOTOS: © AHMET IHSAN ARITURK | DREAMSTIME .COM, © MATYAS REHAK | DREAMSTIME.COM

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SET IN STONE:

Sumela Monastery hugging the hillside in Trabzon and detail of its colorful walls PHOTOS: © BIZOON | DREAMSTIME.COM, © WITR | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

The main regional hub — in fact, an increasingly important global hub — is İstanbul’s Ataturk International Airport (IST). Cramped and crowded, its shortcomings are readily apparent. In 2018 (if targets are met) the airport will close and all operations will move to the state-ofthe-art new airport — unnamed at this time — beside the Black Sea. Although the main length of the Black Sea coast, on the eastern side of the Bosporus Strait, remains accessible by vehicle from İstanbul, most tourists fly in to one of the main coastal cities. Samsun Airport (SZF) has regular connections from İstanbul and seasonal flights from Vienna (VIE) and Berlin-Tegel (TXL). Trabzon Airport (TZX) offers connections to İstanbul and other Turkish cities as well as year-round flights from Germany.

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a drab provincial capital, the labyrinthine alleys of the old town continue to evoke something of the exotic past. One of Trabzon’s most impressive buildings is also one of its most controversial. The Hagia Sophia, a 13th-century Orthodox church, in the course of its history has been converted into a mosque, a prison and — during World War I — a Russian military hospital. In recent years the building has been the object of a tug of war between the Ministry of Culture, which wants to maintain the building in its current role as a museum, and religious authorities, who want to turn it once again into a functioning mosque. For now it remains a museum and is the city’s must-see attraction. An hour’s drive inland from Trabzon, built precariously into the rocky face of a sheer cliff, lies perhaps the greatest cultural attraction of Turkey’s entire Black Sea region, the breathtaking Sumela Monastery. Originally founded in the year 386, this Eastern Orthodox monastery steadfastly endured centuries of political and religious upheaval — not to mention earthquakes — and now serves as an important site of pilgrimage for Christians from Russia and Greece. The monastery’s UNESCO World Heritage status is dependent on essential restoration work which began in September 2015, and, consequently, scaffolding now shrouds the building. It is expected to reopen to worshippers and tourists on Assumption Day (Aug. 15) in 2018, by which time the Istanbul New Airport should also be open: two feats of architecture, one ancient, one modern. Turkey has always been recognized as a geographic crossroads, but it is also a historical crossroads, with many eras and cultural legacies entwined. A journey along the Black Sea coast constantly reminds travelers of this heritage.

DINING

CEMILUSTA TRABZON Located on the city’s main square, this old Trabzon favorite taken over by the national Cemilusta franchise features great Turkish food and fast service. Atatürk Alani, Trabzon $$ MUSTAFA AMCA’NIN YERI This famous family-run fish restaurant has been a popular fixture of Amasra since 1945. Enjoy great sunset views from the terrace. Küçük Liman Caddesi 8, Amasra $$ PAMUK KARDEŞLER There are three locations in the city; the latest and most popular branch adjoins a small marina at Batı Park, a popular recreation area; renowned for fresh fish. Batı Park, Samsun $$



lgbtq

SPEAKING OUT: Presentation by Alfredo Limas Hernández of the Observatory of Social and Gender Violence, Universidad Autónoma Ciudad Juárez (left), and Confex Main Room, site of conferences and discussion panels (above) PHOTOS: © JIMENA HORTA

Growth Mode Mexico’s largest LGBTQ tourism conference gets ready to debut in Colombia. BY MARK CHESNUT parts of the world, the LGBTQ segment in Mexico is becoming increasingly accepted REGISTRATION MORE THAN DOUBLED for the as part of the so-called mainstream market, according to Fernando Castillo, owner, sixth annual edition of LGBT Confex, which took Condesa Haus, a boutique hotel in Mexico City’s chic Condesa district. “The market place in October 2016 at Mexico City’s World will be less and less LGBT-specific, because there’s more and more integration,” he Trade Center. And now organizers are ready to take said. “For me, it’s not a matter of having to advertise that I accept gay people. I accept the event to a brand-new destination: Colombia. everyone. More and more businesses are becoming better integrated.” More than 600 people registered for the sixth Participants in a panel about trends in the hospitality industry echoed that sentiannual edition of LGBT Confex, Mexico’s largest ment. “Within the last 10 years there has been tourism and business a general change in hotel employees, in social conference focused on As in many parts of the world, the channels and marketing,” said Paco Carrera, vice the growing LGBTQ LGBTQ segment in Mexico is becoming president of sales, Oasis Hotels & Resorts, which segment. For two and a markets its Oasis Sens hotel in Cancún to the half days, representaincreasingly accepted as part of the LGBTQ market. tives of government so-called mainstream market. “The most important thing to perfect is tourism offices, hotels, service,” said Saul Lomelí Guerrero, associate tour operators and other director, Neta Comunicación, a marketing company that works with clients including members of the business community networked, Westin and Aloft hotels. “You could sell incredible service, but if when guests arrive it made presentations and met the general public. turns out the service isn’t like how you sold it, that’s a big problem.” The trade show floor included sizeable displays by LGBT Confex — which takes place next in Mexico City on Sept. 29–30 — is sponsors including AT&T, Scotiabank and Mundo expanding its horizons. Ruben Sandoval, the event’s CEO and founder, announced Cuervo, as well as exhibitors like Mexico Boutique plans to debut a similar conference in Bogotá, Colombia, May 26–27. “Colombia is a Hotels, Interjet and the tourism offices of Mexico growing and important destination for LGBT travelers and for doing business,” he said. City and the state of Morelos. “We see great opportunities for growth and can’t wait to get together with local and Much discussion at the conference centered on international businesses, tourism experts and travelers in Bogotá.” the evolution of the LGBTQ market. As in many

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2017 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

AIRLINE BEST Overall Best Airline in the World____________________________________________ Airline Alliance___________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _____________________________________________________________ Airline Website __________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific_______________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class_______________________________________________________ International First Class________________________________________________ Domestic First Class__________________________________________________ Onboard Service _____________________________________________________ Flight Attendants_____________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms _____________________________________________ Airline Cuisine________________________________________________________ Security_____________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design____________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _______________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch___________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program____________________________________ Elite-Level Program___________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________ Award Redemption___________________________________________________ Customer Service ____________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa_______________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand_____________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________ China_______________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe_______________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ Mexico______________________________________________________________ The Middle East _____________________________________________________ North America________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China)___________________________________________ The South Pacific_____________________________________________________ To South America and Central America______________________________________ To Japan_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline______________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline_______________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World____________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents__________________________________________________ Airport Dining____________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping _________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ The Middle East______________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia_________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ The Middle East______________________________________________________ North America________________________________________________________ South America_______________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST

International Hotel Chain_________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain___________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel__________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel ____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Club Floor________________________________________________________ Hotel Website__________________________________________________________ New Luxury Hotel in Asia _______________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World_____________________________ Elite-Level Program_________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion___________________________________________________ Award Redemption_________________________________________________ Customer Service___________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________ South Korea________________________________________________________ The Middle East____________________________________________________ The United States __________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________ Latin America______________________________________________________ Mexico____________________________________________________________ The Middle East____________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program ______________________________________________ Rental Car Company____________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_____________________________________________________ MICE City _____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service___________________________________________________________ Wireless Phone Service in the World______________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand__________________________________________ Luggage Brand_________________________________________________________ Photographic Brand_____________________________________________________ Ride Share_____________________________________________________________ Hotel App______________________________________________________________ Airline App_____________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card_________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card _________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events __________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program____________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card______________________________________ Rental Car Affinity Card__________________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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airport update

Tokyo in Play Haneda Airport steps up its game for the 2020 Olympics. AFTER WINNING ITS BID for the 2020 Summer Olympics, Tokyo now faces the task of accommodating the hundreds of thousands of visitors expected, and Haneda Airport will be a crucial player. Tokyo International Airport, also known as Haneda Airport, is one of two primary airports serving the Greater Tokyo area, conveniently located less than nine miles from Tokyo Station, the heart of the country’s transportation system. The primary base of Japan’s two major domestic airlines, Japan Airlines and All Nippon Airways, Haneda recently ranked No. 1 for the second year running for on-time flights, according to the OAG Punctuality League, with 87.49 percent of flights on schedule. Prior to 2010, the airport primarily handled domestic flights while Narita International functioned as the hub for international service. However, after a significant expansion project that included a new international terminal, Haneda can now handle up to 90 million passengers per year and offers long-haul, non-stop services to 25 cities in 17 countries. The airport reported 75 million passengers in 2015, making it the third-busiest airport in Asia and the fifth-busiest in the world. Following Tokyo’s winning bid to host the 2020 Olympic Games, the government announced several expansion and improvement projects for Haneda, including increased slot capacity and a new railway line linking Haneda and Tokyo Station in only 18 minutes. The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport is also planning a new road tunnel between Haneda’s domestic and international terminals to shorten minimum connection time. In the past, strict airspace restrictions, due to the airport’s location between Yokota Air Base to the west and Narita International to the east, complicated Haneda’s expansion plans. Because of these restrictions and noise concerns, Haneda’s flights are usually required to fly higher or are forced to detour, causing significant air traffic congestion. Haneda Airport received long-awaited approval last month from the United States government to establish new commercial flight routes in U.S-controlled airspace over Haneda in order to increase services before 2020. In preparation for the Olympics, Japan plans to expand annual arrival and departure slots at Haneda by up to 39,000 from the current 447,000. It’s also planning four new routes, three of which can now utilize the U.S-controlled airspace. Japan Airlines recently announced the launch of a New York (JFK)–Tokyo (HND) service, set to begin April 1. Plans are also in place to add a new arrival corridor over Western Tokyo and a new departure corridor over Yokohama, Kawasaki and Central

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BY NICOLE QUASTÉ

NEW APPROACH:

Haneda Airport’s futuristic architecture (above) and control tower (left) PHOTOS: © DOMINIQUE BONNET | DREAMSTIME.COM © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM

TOKYO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT www.haneda-airport.jp

Tokyo, which will require new taxiways. For many, Haneda is the preferred Tokyo airport for its proximity to the city and its innovations in technology and customer service. In 2016 the airport launched a series of customer service robots able to detect their surroundings to point lost travelers in the right direction throughout the airport. Despite its airspace challenges and restrictions, Haneda has made strides in recent years and is poised for growth ahead of the 2020 Summer Olympics.


health

Pain Relief Follow guidelines for the safe use of over-the-counter analgesics. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

PARACETAMOL, ALSO KNOWN as acetaminophen, is a popular medication sold in the United States under the brand name Tylenol and in other countries as Panadol. It is in a class of medications called analgesics (pain relievers) and antipyretics (fever reducers) and works by changing the way the body senses pain and by cooling the body. It is used to reduce fever and to relieve mild to moderate pain from headaches, muscle aches, menstrual periods, colds, sore throats, toothaches, backaches and reactions to vaccinations. It may also relieve the pain of mild osteoarthritis (arthritis caused by the breakdown of the lining of the joints). Many brands and forms of paracetamol and acetaminophen are available. The maximum amount for adults is 1 gram (1,000 mg) per dose and 4 grams (4,000 mg) per day. Taking more paracetamol or acetaminophen could cause damage to your liver and kidneys. Panadol Osteo is the same medication as Panadol but contains a higher amount of the active ingredient (665mg versus 500mg) in regular Panadol. It is formulated for slow and sustained release. Be careful you don’t go over the safe daily limit (six Panadol Osteo caplets). Panadol Rapid is absorbed twice as fast as regular Panadol tablets, so be careful you do not accidently overdose. Similarly, Tylenol is available in many forms, including regular strength (325 mg), extra strength (500 mg), arthritis extended release (650 mg) and rapid release extra strength (500 mg). When administering Panadol or Tylenol to your child, know his or her exact weight and use the dosing calculator on the Panadol website (panadol.com.au/children) or the chart on the Tylenol website (tylenol.com/ children-infants) and read the notes and recommendations from the manufacturers

on dosing and frequency under each of the children’s products. Consult your pediatrician before administering to infants. Do not use this medication without first talking to your doctor if you drink more than three alcoholic beverages per day, if you have had alcoholic liver disease (cirrhosis) or have a history of alcoholism. You may not be able to use paracetamol or may need to limit your intake to 2 grams (2,000 mg) per day. Do not use any other over-the-counter cough, cold, allergy or pain medication without first asking your doctor or pharmacist. Many combination medicines contain paracetamol or acetaminophen. If you use certain products together, you may accidentally ingest too much paracetamol or acetaminophen. Read the label of any other medicine you are using to see if it contains paracetamol, acetaminophen or APAP (an abbreviation of acetyl-para-aminophenol, the chemical name of acetaminophen). Avoid drinking alcohol while taking this medication, as it may increase your risk of liver damage. In the United States we tend to think of acetaminophen and paracetamol as harmless, but they are not. Each year about 8 percent of the 100 million Americans who take acetaminophen visit emergency departments for accidentally overdosing on the drug, according to researchers from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Many people do not know they are placing themselves at risk. A new Food and Drug Administration warning asks doctors to stop prescribing combination medications that contain more than 325 mg of acetaminophen per pill. Stop taking the medication and seek immediate medical attention if you notice signs of a serious allergic reaction (difficulty breathing, hives, swelling of face or throat),

signs of overdose (diarrhea, increased sweating, nausea or vomiting) or symptoms of liver damage (abdominal pain, dark urine and itchy skin). In case of overdose, call the American Association of Poison Control Centers at 1 800 222 1222. If the victim has collapsed or is not breathing, call local emergency services at 911. If you are traveling abroad and were prescribed Panadol, a valid prescription or doctor’s note is required for all medication entering the United States. Paracetamol/ Tylenol, Imodium, asthma medicines and so on are generally waived. However, many countries, including the United States, technically require documentation for all medicines so they have recourse for suspicious circumstances. In the case of any medicines you’re not sure about, it’s worth obtaining a doctor’s note if you do not have a prescription. If you really must bring in your codeine-based medicines, it is a simple and sensible step to take. Carry a prescription or written statement from your physician that the substances are being used under a doctor’s supervision and are necessary for your physical wellbeing while traveling. When traveling or at home, contact your pharmacist or doctor if you have questions about the safe use of paracetamol, acetaminophen or products containing these medications, especially when caring for a child.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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past & present

EL AL Israel Airlines operated its first scheduled passenger flight July 31, 1949. One of the first two airplanes in operation was the Douglas DC-4 ‘Herzl’ 4X-ACD. Photos show the aircraft (top left) and passengers deplaning (top right) in the fall of 1949 at Lod Airport, now Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport. Later this year, EL AL will receive the first of 16 new wide-body Boeing Dreamliner aircraft (bottom photo).

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PHOTOS: © OZZIE GOLDMAN, © EL AL ISRAEL AIRLINES

EL AL Israel Airlines


Offering more than 250 nonstop destinations worldwide VISIT www.flychicago.com

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