October 2018 Global Traveler

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ABU DHABI p. 60 BEVERLY HILLS p. 58 HONG KONG p. 52 PHNOM PENH p. 66 RIYADH p. 64 STAVANGER p. 62 TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY p. 70

TROPICAL PERSUASION For the perfect slice of rejuvenating aloha, nothing beats Maui. p. 72

October 2018

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

HOME AND ABROAD IT’S OFFICIALLY AUTUMN HERE in Bucks County, Pennsylvania, where FX Express Publications, Inc., makes its home. I have to admit — fall is my favorite season, and one I prefer to enjoy closer to home.

Not to say it’s not a wonderful time of the year to experience other worldwide destinations, but the sight of brightly colored leaves outside my office window, signs for hayrides and apple picking and a slew of local festivals remind me of just LEARNING FROM A LOCAL: how special our own little part Kimberly Krol making bracelets with a Panamanian tribeswoman of the world is, as well.

PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL While I will be staying close to home for some of the season, I’ve recently been finalizing details for a surprise trip to Spain early next month. I was fortunate to win the airfare and hotel stay — the hardest part of the entire process was choosing where, as Spain is a country I’ve been lucky to visit several times and one I love. Always keen to visit a new place, I opted for Valencia, where I look forward to getting hands-on during a paella cooking class. Exploring a bit more of the culture through a cooking class took me back to my May trip to Panama, where I tried my hand at bracelet making with a Panamanian tribeswoman. Unique opportunities like these cannot be experienced from home. Finding the balance between discovering your own hometown and exploring new peoples, places and cultures is key.

And, of course, we’re always looking ahead. I’ve recently put the final touches on the 2019 editorial calendar for Global Traveler, and I’m really looking forward to the journey we’ll go on together next year.

A complete redesign of trazeetravel.com is upcoming, and I hope readers will be as thrilled as I am about the web publication’s new look. It is eye-catching and visually different.

But where will this issue take us? After we get to know Jumeirah International and Turkish Airlines a bit better, we take off around the globe to Las Vegas, Abu Dhabi, Norway, Russia, Hong Kong, Cambodia, Hawai’i, Beverly Hills and Riyadh. Come aboard next month as we debut our first-ever Cruising Issue!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com

ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

SUSAN BARNES RON BERNTHAL DEBRA BOKUR ELLEN CLARK ELYSE GLICKMAN BECCA HENSLEY SHARON KING HOGE ALLIE MOORE RICHARD NEWTON HOLLY RIDDLE

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler ob gl t si vi

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD,

orway’s One of N es, ti ci st de ol was Stavanger founded ly al ci fi of Read in 1125. t ou ab e mor on Stavanger page 62.

TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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ADVERTISING

IN THE TRAVEL SPIRIT I WAS SPEAKING TO MY FAMILY recently about plans we are making for the Christmas holidays.

Last year we took a cruise on the Norwegian Gem from Christmas through New Year’s Day. This year we plan to spend the holiday season closer to home, GOOD TIMES: maybe with a short trip after Francis X. Gallagher with GT Globility Board members Frank Reilly and Eric Chiang at Christmas Day to Florida.

The Trazees awards event in San Diego If you have not made plans PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER over the holidays, you might find it is already too late. Most accommodations are secured well in advance, and the larger the group the more likely you will encounter problems.

By the time you sit down to read this issue, I will be on the high seas on the Queen Mary 2, crossing from New York to London. We are looking forward to enjoying the onboard dinners and entertainment and making new friends. In London we will stay at the Corinthia Hotel and meet with Nick Perry of Ultra Travel and his wife, Liz, for dinner. Nick and I have fond memories of working together for 16 years, selling to the travel industry. I will also meet with Pauline and Dennis Bank, friends we met while sailing on the QM2 about eight years ago. We keep in touch via email and have met several times since in London and Florida. It will be wonderful to see them again.

You can find some great deals if you check areas of the world with favorable exchange rates. Pay particular attention to Turkey and South Africa, where changing rates created great value. On top of this, U.S. carriers add service from the United States to a variety of gateways overseas, particularly Europe.

The GT team has trips planned in Asia and Europe, so we have the globe well-covered this fall. I will miss a trip to Ireland to play golf, as it falls during the span of my cruise. By the time the next issue is in your hands, we will have our Turkish trip to Antalya planned for late spring, so please pay attention to this and other trips in the works through FX Excursions.

Happy Halloween!

Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales MARIE EDWARDS tel 610 742 4783 | marie.edwards@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Manager ASHLEY RICHARDS tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | ashley.richards@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext. 211 | stephanie.makowski@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Coordinator ANDREW RISCH tel 267 364 5811 ext 201 | andrew.risch@globaltravelerusa.com Sales Planner YASSER OGANDO tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com Intern AUDREY LEE intern@globaltravelerusa.com REPRESENTATIVES Egypt CARMEN DOYLE and HASSAN SHEHAB tel 61 0 403866188 carmen.doyle@afrozinternational.com hassan.shehab@afrozinternational.com France, The Netherlands JEREMY PRADERIO-REGIE tel 09 54 20 09 50 | cell 06 07 96 54 15 j.praderio@regiepem.com Germany MICHAELA JUSTI tel 49 69 56 02 01 21 | fax 49 69 56 02 01 23 | cell 49 171 20 29 502 justi@mediasalescompany.de Hong Kong, Thailand, Singapore, Australia JEREMY ORRITT tel 852 23752311 | fax 852 30208642 | cell 852 91886157 jeremy@omjmedia.com India VIMAL ANAND tel 91 124 493 2020 | cell 91 98100 71000 vimal@gmnindia.com Japan YOSHIZUMI MIYAKE, MEDIAHOUSE INC. tel 3 3222 7811 | fax 3 3234 1140 miyake@mediahs.com HIDETADA KOCHI tel 81 3 3222 7811 | cell 81 3 90 8774 9800 fax 81 3 3234 1140 kochi@mediahs.com Mexico CARLOS ALBERTO FRIAS tel 52 55 5254-4490 afrias@fgasociados.mx South Korea JEFF HWANG tel 82 31 702 7782 | cell 82 10 3498 9117 gng@gngcom.co.kr

FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

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Spain LUIS ANDRADE tel 34 91 788 2001 | fax 34 91 395 6396 landrade@luisandrade.com Taiwan CHLOE KUO tel: 886 2 27993110 ext. 221 | fax 886 2 27995560 chloe.kuo@hintoninfo.com Turkey SABA SAROL CORZO tel 90 532 311 6704 or 1 310 562 2580 saba@catalyzismedia.com

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Beyond Asia. To the Future. F lying with You. ASIANA AIRLINES

Reservations • 1-800-2ASIANA • flyasiana.com

contents

October 2018 52

PHOTOS: © JUMEIRAH, © ESTHERPOON | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TURKISH AIRLINES

38

42

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

38 Ultimate Opulence Jumeirah elevates its elite status worldwide.

52 Destination One: Hong Kong Hong Kong energizes its economy with technology startups.

42 Global Appeal Turkish Airlines forges ahead with improvements and renewed customer confidence.

58 Stateside: Beverly Hills Beverly Hills updates its image with plans for a progressive future.

48 On a Roll Las Vegas venues up the ante to attract conventions and meetings.

52 6

globaltravelerusa.com

OCTOBER 2018

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

Abu DhAbi p. 60 beverly hills p. 58 hong Kong p. 52 Phnom Pehn p. 66 riyADh p. 64 stAvAnger p. 62 trAns-siberiAn rAilwAy p. 70

Tropical persuasion

60 9–5: Abu Dhabi Modern amenities make it easy to take care of business in Abu Dhabi.

62 After 5: Stavanger Sample Stavanger’s fine dining and stunning scenery.

September 2018

For the perfect slice of rejuvenating aloha, nothing beats Maui. p. 72

36

COVER PHOTO: SEVEN SACRED POOLS OF OHEʼO, MAUI, HAWAI’I PHOTO: © SHIRAJDESILVA | DREAMSTIME.COM

contents

October 2018

23

72 26

74 LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

24 26 28 30 32 34 36 37 76 80

10 13 16 21

64 Neighborhoods: Riyadh Everything changes in Riyadh by night.

8

Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Tours Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ+ Health

globaltravelerusa.com

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 22 One on One Hawaiian Airlines 78 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

OCTOBER 2018

66 Friends & Family: Phnom Penh Encounter a blend of Buddhist virtues and Western convenience at every turn.

70 Bucket List: Trans-Siberian Railway Take a journey like no other on the Trans-Siberian Railway.

72 Kicking Back: Maui For the perfect slice of rejuvenating aloha, nothing beats Maui.

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2018 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © CHRIS CURTIS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © GOLDEN EAGLE LUXURY TRAIN, © PADRE AZUL

70

CONNECTING YOU TO THE WORLD Airlines at Chicago’s airports offer more than 250 nonstop destinations worldwide.

World class airports with best in class amenities.

VISIT www.flychicago.com

@fly2ohare @fly2midway

@flyohare @flymidway

/fly2ohare /fly2midway

/flychicago

mail call AUGUST Q&A WITH YASSER OGANDO, SALES PLANNER

Q&A WITH FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

In our August 2018 issue, Yasser Ogando discussed all things vino.

Being our wine issue of the magazine and Yasser’s first time attending our annual Wines on the Wing survey, her reflection on tasting a variety of wines at the event inspired the question: Do you choose your wine based on your mood or on your entrée choice?

SAM DELANEY, via email I tend to go lighter in the summer and heavier in the winter with my wines, but typically it all depends on my mood. An interesting wine tastes good with anything.

LESLIE KARTOVSKI, via email

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

THE PEANUT GALLERY In our Aug. 8 eFlyer USA newsletter, we discussed Southwest Airlines moving away from peanuts, as the snack has been officially removed from the airline menu for the first time in its history. This inspired a few readers to write in with comments both last month and again this month: What!!? No Southwest peanuts?!

I’m so disappointed. Peanuts are a snack we Atkins dieters and gluten-restricted eaters can enjoy.

No way will I eat a pre-packaged

pretzel. I’m bringing on my own peanuts.

YVONNE LANELLI, via email The real reason Southwest stopped offering peanuts on its flights is simple: money. They cost more than pretzels.

MICHAEL GREEN, via email Only 150 deaths per year? How many of those occur on an airplane?

I am diabetic. There are many, many people in the world who are also diabetic. Guess what? We can

eat peanuts, but we can’t eat pretzels or chips. Years ago, I started carrying my own bag of nuts when I travel, as most airlines do not serve diabetic-friendly anything except water. The only negative thing about water is it doesn’t fill you up.

I live overseas but typically take one or two Southwest flights a year when I am in the United States (primarily because it is the only airline that still offers free baggage check and flies where I want to go). I am typically laden with baggage on the return trip, stocking up on things I can’t get overseas, and having to manage TSA-friendly foods gets to be a real hassle (no milk, no yogurt, no other liquids or things in cans).

Consequently, I don’t travel nearly as much or as often as I used to.

Chinese flights offer juice, sugary soft drinks and instant coffee with sugar and creamer already added.

Meals are mostly bread, rice or noodles.

When is someone going to consider diabetics?

MELANIE G. FLANDERS, via email

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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OCTOBER 2018

PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, © BRUNOHAVER | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MIROSLAV BENEDA | DREAMSTIME.COM

A good pairing changes the entire dinner experience. I will usually look at the food menu first and decide what I want to eat before I choose a glass of wine to go with it.

I’m curious about how our readers combine business and leisure trips. Do you do this mainly on a solo basis, or do you try to include your partner/friends? Are you more likely to combine trips when traveling domestically or internationally?

F LY N O N -S TO P F R O M N YC- N B O

WAKE UP IN NAIROBI READY TO TAKE ON AFRICA

If you’ve got business in Africa, Kenya Airways offers one of the fastest non-stop flights via Nairobi, Kenya so you don’t have to worry about missing out on any opportunity.

kenya-airways.com

For further information, please call our toll free number 1 866 536 9224, book with your preferred travel agent or book online at www.kenya-airways.com

PLUS TRAVEL WITH APP-TITUDE

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mail call

Globility

THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINE

ABU DHABI

TERRI CALABRESE, via email

UNACCOMPANIED MINORS In our Aug. 15 issue of eFlyer USA, we wrote about the Frontier Airlines incident involving unaccompanied minors after a weather-related flight diversion. Siblings were separated in different hotel rooms with other stranded children and were attended to by a Frontier Airlines chaperone. According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, there are no federal guidelines

globaltravelerusa.com

OCTOBER 2018

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

I am one of the parents who sent their kids flying alone many times. I always paid for flight attendant assistance since the flights were international and involved layovers of certain lengths. I have never had a problem, although I would be lying if I said I was never worried. Any parent would be, even if these flights were happening before 2001. The airline was KLM, and it never let us down. One time we couldn’t get to the airport in time to pick up our children because of an accident on the road, and a flight attendant waited with them at the airport for us for almost two hours.

Another time their flight left late so it missed the connection in Amsterdam. There was a layover of nine hours. The airline put my children in care of a flight attendant for all that time in the children’s lounge in the airport and called me to let me know. The flight attendant called and had the children talk with me from there. She fed them, walked with them in the airport, gave them ice cream, played games in the lounge, took care of them. Then another one took over for the final portion of the flight.

I don’t think I ever gave the airline feedback, but I wouldn’t hesitate to do that again if need be with that airline. They earned my trust. What is happening now is the airlines changed their whole approach and attitude toward travelers. They used to care much more about passengers; now we’re more like cattle they have to put up with!

Currently, there are airlines I would never fly with or send my kids with anywhere. Main point is, parents need to do their homework before sending their kids off. Ask questions about different scenarios, make sure the airline is provided with their cellphone numbers. And nowadays, kids have their own cellphones; have them take a bit of responsibility to keep their parents informed of things, additionally to the airline.

I thought I should give my testimony to a good airline because it deserves it, as well as giving a bit of advice for parents.

OANA DREW, via email

12

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

for unaccompanied minor travel. This inspired a reader to write in.

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from combining business and pleasure in San Diego to enjoying a barbecue competition in Hammondsport, New York.

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I just flew Southwest Aug. 14, 2018. No peanuts but did have pretzels. I noted the pretzels are not produced nor packaged in a peanut- or nut-free environment. Therefore, anyone with a peanut or nut allergy could still have a severe or life-threatening result if they eat them. Seems dumb to me to drop peanuts (I’m allergic to peanuts) but serve another item that may have issues with cross-contamination.

If just peanuts were served, one with an allergy would know to avoid them. Unless one reads the tiny print on the pretzels, they may be consumed. Hence, Southwest is not fully mindful of the peanut issue.

news Singapore Relaunches Non-Stop Route to Los Angeles

One of the world’s most awarded airlines re-introduces its non-stop route from Los Angeles (LAX) to Singapore (SIN).

As of Nov. 2, travelers will be able to fly with Singapore Airlines to either city three times per week for the first week, followed by daily availability after Nov. 9. Beginning Dec. 7, the airline will add three more flights to the roster, offering 10 weekly chances to travel.

Originally launched in 2004, the LAX–SIN route was canceled in 2014 due to increasing fuel prices. The reintroduction comes only one week after United Airlines suspended its non-stop service between the two cities.

Although the flight time will be 17.5 hours, the non-stop route is faster than the original, which included a layover in Seoul. Singapore Airlines will employ the energyefficient Airbus A350-900ULR aircraft, able to travel for 20 hours before needing to refuel. The plane will feature 67 business-class seats and 94 premium-economy seats. singaporeair.com

BOEING HYPERSONIC JET COULD CONNECT NEW YORK AND LONDON IN TWO HOURS At the American Institute of Aeronautics and Astronautics conference in June, representatives from The Boeing Co. announced plans for the company’s first hypersonic jet that could traverse the Atlantic Ocean (from New York to London) in about two hours.

Speeds of up to 3,800 mph (or five times the speed of sound) would also mean this jet could fly across the Pacific Ocean (for example, Los Angeles to Tokyo) in just three hours. Current flight times across the Atlantic range from six to eight hours, while flights between the City of Angels and the Japanese capital typically last approximately 11 hours. Boeing reps touted these jets could be used for both commercial travel and military purposes.

With a projected debut date of 20 to 30 years in the future, travelers will have to settle for standard flight times for now, but an era of faster flying looms on the horizon. boeing.com

PHOTOS: © BOEING, © ROLLS-ROYCE

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Rolls-Royce’s Idea for a Flying Taxi

Elsewhere in the realm of the innovative travel industry of the future, automotive company Rolls-Royce joined the gaggle of other companies announcing plans for a flying taxi. The official announcement came at the Farnborough International Airshow in July.

Although the company is probably most well-known for its luxury cars, Rolls-Royce is one of the world’s largest airplane engine manufacturers. Its new “electric vertical take-off and landing” device can theoretically accommodate four to five passengers and cart them at speeds of up to 250 mph. With a maximum distance of 500 miles before requiring a fuel-up, it is unlikely operators would need to refuel in the middle of a ride.

With an ambitious launch date in the early 2020s, RollsRoyce may have finally found the solution to beat ground traffic in some of the nation’s most congested cities. rolls-royce.com

OCTOBER 2018

globaltravelerusa.com

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news Hilton Hints at New Luxury Soft Brand

Although an official announcement is yet to be made, a Hilton Worldwide Holdings Inc. July press release hinted the company will build three new “luxury soft” properties in Dubai. The communication stated these three properties will be part of an “upcoming luxury collection brand from Hilton” called LXR Hotels & Resorts.

These three new hotels will be considered “soft brands,” or individually operated properties with their own identities but with the amenities and services of a major hotel brand. The first of these new properties will be the Habtoor Palace Hotel, located near Al Habtoor City in Dubai. hilton.com

Vietnam’s New Budget Airline

InterContinental Tests AI in Guestrooms

Guests who stay at the InterContinental Beijing Sanlitun or the InterContinental Guangzhou Exhibition Centre hotels will soon be able to turn on their room lights with the sound of their voice.

As part of a collaboration with Baidu, a Chinese tech company, InterContinental Hotels & Resorts began to offer test-run guestrooms outfitted with artificial intelligence capabilities. These “smart rooms” will allow guests to request several services with voice commands, including placing room service orders, asking about travel time to the airport and making room temperature adjustments. Not only will this allow for on-demand information without having to dial the front desk, it will also free up more time for hotel employees.

The AI technology will be tested in more than 100 suites through the rest of the year.

If all goes according to plan, Vietnam will introduce its own budget airline in slightly more than one year.

A Vietnamese startup called FLC Group hopes to launch Hanoi-based Bamboo Airways and offer flights within the Southeast Asian country as well as around the region. Within Vietnam, Bamboo Airways would fly to popular spots such as Quy Nhon (UIH), Quang Ninh (VDO) (the province of Halong Bay) and Hai Phong (HPH).

Although still awaiting its government-issued aviation license, tentative plans note the first flight could be as early as 2019, with possible expansion to international destinations like China, Japan, South Korea and eventually even the United States.

ihg.com

Spirit Airlines is spreading its wings and expanding its service to more locations outside the United States. The budget airline that gained popularity for its affordable national flights will soon offer just-as-affordable airfare and wider availability to its international destinations.

As part of this expansion, slated to begin this fall, Spirit will add nine new routes departing from Orlando International Airport and traveling to Bogotá (BOG), Medellín (MDE) and Cartagena (CTG), Colombia, as well as El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras and Panama. These destinations are currently served by Spirit from Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport.

Within the United States and its territories, Spirit will also add routes to Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands. spirit.com

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PHOTOS: © INTERCONTINENTAL, © SORIN COLAC | DREAMSTIME.COM

Spirit Expands International Routes

deals & rewards Walk and Pay for Your Stay in Boston

If you need an incentive to exercise while traveling, Hotel Commonwealth, in one of America’s most walkable cities, may have the ticket.

Guests who book the Fit to Be (Kenmore) Square offer at the Boston hotel can earn a seriously discounted stay by committing to its walking program.

Upon check-in for the $399/night room which includes the offer, guests receive a Fitbit that will track the number of steps taken each day. Guests who walk 10,000 steps per day can earn a discount of 10 percent on that day’s stay, while 15,000 steps earn guests a 15 percent discount, and 20,000 steps means guests are eligible for a 20 percent discount.

At the end of the stay, show your average daily step count to the front desk and be rewarded with the associated discount. Guests who book also receive a $20 gift card to New Balance and a breakfast at the nearby Eastern Standard. hotelcommonwealth.com

PHOTOS: © MARY KATHERINE WYNN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © VENMO

AccorHotels’ New Combined Loyalty Program

After the acquisition of Fairmont, Raffles and Swissôtel in 2016, AccorHotels only recently combined its loyalty program with those of the other three brands and launched a new, allencompassing program called Le Club AccorHotels.

Members of Fairmont President’s Club, Raffles Ambassador and Swissôtel Circle programs will be automatically enrolled in the new joint program, and statuses will depend on points acquired and redeemed in 2017.

Catering to its now 45 million members, Le Club AccorHotels will offer travelers the chance to earn and redeem points at as many as 3,500 properties worldwide. accorhotels.com

Use Venmo to Pay for Uber

Splitting a bill can be one of the most annoying aspects of travel with groups, but Venmo makes it easy for anyone who has a smartphone. Car-sharing company Uber latched on to the easy-to-pay business model to allow riders in its cars to split their payment with other passengers.

Uber embedded Venmo-payment functionalities in its app so riders can find, order and pay for services without having to switch from one app to the other. This feature allows riders to keep their payment information private from Uber and instead use either money already stored in a Venmo account or a direct payment from a bank account.

Although singlerider payments can be made with Venmo using the Uber app, split payments for multiple riders will require users to exit the Uber app and open Venmo. Paying with Venmo for a group’s Uber ride eliminates the 25-cent charge currently in place for a multiplerider journey in an Uber. uber.com venmo.com

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GT tested

THOMPSON SEATTLE Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher Arrival/Check-In: I flew Delta Air Lines through Minneapolis, and due to weather and late arrival of aircraft at both Philadelphia (PHL) and Minneapolis (MSP), I did not land in Seattle until 2 a.m. My goal was to have my head hit the bed at 3 a.m. so I would get a little sleep and be bright-eyed and bushy-tailed for my 8 a.m. meeting, the first of five the next day. I was pleased there was a taxi waiting (only one) and I figured calling an Uber this late would take more time.

The ride was uneventful except when the driver tried to go down a one-way street in the heart of Seattle. Nonetheless, I made it to the hotel and was pleased the front doorman was working at that ungodly hour. The front desk attendant was also ready and set me up swiftly.

Services/Amenities: After our meetings the following day, we started with a drink and appetizers at the popular The Nest, the property’s rooftop bar.

Everybody was speaking about The Nest in our meetings during the day, as did our Uber driver. It was unseasonably hot that day in August, so we secured a seat at the bar and had a few drinks. People were coming out, and I witnessed a woman lose control of a full glass of white wine, which tumbled into another woman’s handbag. That woman was a sport about it and the perpetrator just left, so I bought her a drink to make her feel better — I became the champ of the bar after that. For dinner, you can easily walk to many of Seattle’s eateries.

We ended up at Pink Door.

Breakfast is served on the lobby level, as are lunch and dinner at Scout PNW, Thompson’s farm-to-table restaurant headed by Executive Chef Derek Simcik.

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TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The concierge rescued me by supplying me with a MacBook Pro charger; this was service beyond expectation and kept me on track for the rest of my trip. ◆ The Nest is the place to see and be seen. There are often lines to get in, but not for hotel guests. ◆ The workstation features convenient outlets for charging.

THOMPSON SEATTLE 110 Stewart St. Seattle, WA 98101 tel 206 623 4600 thompsonhotels.com

PHOTOS: © THOMPSON SEATTLE, © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Guest Quarters: All was going to plan, and I took my bag to room 816. For security purposes, you need to swipe your key card in the elevator. The room is basically a large rectangle, with the bathroom on the right when you enter. My room featured a king-sized bed on the right with two night tables that were simple metal frames with a marble top. The bed and linens were comfortable. There was a reading light on one side of the bed above the headboard (just one person is allowed to read, I guess). Left of the bed, a comfy, modern, black leather chair and ottoman included a convenient table to slide over the chair to make a makeshift desk.

On the far side of the room, the famous Thompson floor-to-ceiling windows afforded views of Puget Sound and Pike Place Market. As they say, location, location, location — it cannot get any better. A large, flat-screen TV hung on the wall above a workstation and fully stocked minibar. I saw no complimentary water, which I thought was odd, so I took a bottle of Fred-branded water. From the flask-like bottle shape, I had to confirm it was not vodka. The functional bathroom had only one sink, so two people might find it difficult sharing. The shower had a powerful rain showerhead, and the door to the bathroom was a slider, which I don’t ever find functional. The bathroom offered a host of amenities for guests; shampoos and lotions were from the D.S. & Durga brand.

GT tested

HAWAIIAN AIRLINES | FIRST CLASS

Long Beach (LGB) to Honolulu (HNL) Reviewed by Carly Allen

PHOTOS: © HAWAIIAN AIRLINES

On the Ground: Long Beach Airport lies just 20 miles from Los Angeles International Airport but is a throwback to a yesteryear of simpler travel. The airport features two terminals connected by a large outdoor breezeway, with local craft coffee and dining options giving you that SoCal relaxed vibe and outdoor space to enjoy the sun before your flight. Hawaiian Airlines’ newest aircraft, the Airbus A321neo, was delivered in June and made its home at Long Beach Airport with new capabilities for the West Coast traveler. Hawaiian uses its A321neos to service mid-sized mainland markets, with nonstop flights to destinations like Maui and Kauai. However, my trip took me to beautiful Honolulu.

Pre-Flight: As the mid-sized A321neo holds 189 passengers, including 12 first-class cabin seats, boarding was easy. The friendly first-class flight attendants promptly took care of putting my sun hat in a safe spot (what do you expect when traveling to Hawai’i?) and offered pre-flight beverages of a mai tai, guava juice or Champagne.

As Hawaiian won Best Champagne in our annual Wines on the Wing survey for its Flor Prosecco, I had to give it a try and was not disappointed. We were also given small dishes of macadamia nuts.

We took off into the morning sun on time and in good spirits.

In-Flight: Once we reached altitude, I explored my seat a bit more.

Hawaiian Airlines’ first class on this Long Beach route has a simple 2-2 configuration with oversized reclining seats that were surprisingly

comfortable and perfect for the quick five-hour flight. Other routes feature lie-flat seats in first class (check your flight listings).

There were no built-in screens, but attendants distributed charged iPads and headphones during the flight, and the airline’s entertainment app offered a wide range of new and classic movies and shows for passengers to experience aircraft-wide. Just make sure you download the app before your flight, as no onboard WiFi is available yet.

Breakfast on the way to Honolulu was a mushroom quiche; although I am not a fan of eggs on a plane, it was quite good, and a glass of guava juice was the perfect post-meal drink. My return flight’s lunch menu was even better, with smoked shrimp crostini and a short rib stew with coconut ginger rice — delicious. Other unique, Hawai’ian-focused touches included food and beverage options like the lager from Maui Brewing Co. and the shortbread cookies from the famed Honolulu Cookie Co. I also loved seeing the silhouette of the lavatory signs featured a Hawai’ian pattern on the shirt and dress.

What makes the Hawaiian Airlines flight so special is the aloha spirit from the cabin crew. Everyone is kind, generous and, most importantly, happy, setting the mood for a good time and what’s to come in paradise.

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TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The A321neo allows more options than ever for West Coast travelers to take a non-stop flight to the islands. ◆ Hawaiian’s cabin crew is the definition of aloha spirit. ◆ The beverage game is on point with craft beer, award-winning Champagne, guava juice and mai tais!

HAWAIIAN AIRLINES hawaiianairlines.com

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HALEKULANI HOTEL Reviewed by Carly Allen Arrival/Check-In: The Halekulani Hotel nestles off the main Waikiki drag, right on the beach for every guest’s pleasure. We arrived in the early afternoon, and the valet greeted us warmly and showed us to the main lobby for check-in. The open-air main lobby and sitting area let guests feel the warm tropical breeze and feature white marble floors and rich, dark wood accents. The desk staff promptly helped us and escorted us to our room, all the while giving an overview of the hotel amenities, pools and restaurants, including tips to get the best spot with an umbrella and seating for the live music. Upon arrival into the room, we were welcomed with fresh fruit and chocolate.

Guest Quarters: The most important part of any hotel in Hawai’i is the view, and our guestroom had the best I’ve seen.

Our balcony offered both a pool view and a perfect ocean view, with a lounge chair and a table for two. The room was open and airy and, in the evening, the live Hawai’ian music drifted up to us — it was perfect. The room featured a clean white and cream décor with a king-sized bed facing a large TV. An adjacent sitting area included a decent-sized desk for me to get some minimal work done.

The bathroom was my second-favorite part of the room experience, as the large space was decadent with white marble and tile, plush oversized rugs and a floor-to-ceiling mirror. Large sconces hung on either side of the vanity and ottoman — perfect for lounging or getting ready for an evening out. An oversized spa tub sat adjacent, with a standalone, glass-enclosed shower next to it — although it was a tight space.

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◆ House Without A Key’s cocktails and live Hawai’ian music are a must for anyone visiting Honolulu. ◆ The Halekulani is positioned in the heart of Waikiki Beach with shopping, beach and restaurants within minutes of your guestroom.

on the menu than I care to admit, including breaded Puna goat cheese salad, prime rib and sashimi with signature Halekulani coconut cake. At sunset, with the backdrop of the ocean and century-old kiawe tree, Hawai’ian music performed by excellent musicians pairs with dancing from former Miss Hawai’i winners.

This is a must-experience if you are coming to Honolulu.

The concierge service goes above and beyond for guests.

Within hours, they helped get a rental car delivered to the hotel for me by 7 a.m. and mapped out an entire day of sightseeing, including lesser-known paths to the North Shore.

The Halekulani is a treat for any leisure traveler coming to Oahu and a must-see!

◆ The poolside experience offers resort bliss, with its amazing service, quiet atmosphere and treats of ice cream making a perfect vacation day.

HALEKULANI HOTEL 2199 Kalia Road Honolulu, HI 96815 tel 808 923 2311 halekulani.com

PHOTOS: © HALEKULANI HOTEL

Services/Amenities: The hotel offers full resortstyle services that are a treat for a leisure traveler.

I was charmed every evening by the turn-down service, presenting small gifts nightly, from cookies and pens to mini flashlights. I took them all home!

The hotel pool presents a truly self-indulgent experience: All-white lounge chairs, tables and umbrellas surrounded a stunning pool never too busy or noisy. The attentive cabana crew offered a decent poolside menu and drink service, coming by throughout the day with complimentary ice cream, cookies and fruit to enjoy.

The property boasts five bars and restaurants to choose from, including La Mer and Orchids for true fine dining and Lewers Lounge for classic jazz music and after-dinner drinks. I spent the majority of our evenings at the famed House Without A Key. This open-air restaurant and patio serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, but the evening meal is truly special. I tried more items

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

GT tested

WASHINGTON DULLES AIRPORT MARRIOTT Reviewed by Tracey Cullen

PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT

Arrival/Check-In: We arrived at the hotel shortly after lunch and before check-in time, so I wasn’t sure if our room would be ready. At the front desk we learned our room was indeed ready; but if we could wait just 15 more minutes, we could avoid the early check-in fee.

Perfect — we could easily kill 15 minutes just walking around the hotel to see where everything was. Located on the grounds of Dulles International Airport, the hotel boasts 364 rooms and four suites on three floors.

We checked out the fitness room and the indoor and outdoor pools. The hotel also features nearly 13,000 square feet of event space, including 11 event rooms.

Guest Quarters: I was staying with my husband and daughter for a softball tournament, so we booked a guestroom with two double beds.

Some of the rooms offered a nice view of the pond out front. Unfortunately, ours did not, but we could see the picnic pavilion, which we used later in the week.

The room included a chair in the back corner and a nice big desk with another chair. Extra seating was useful when my daughter invited teammates to hang out with her in the room.

Being so close to the airport, I was concerned the noise from the airplanes might keep us up at night, but the rooms all have soundproof windows, so we didn’t

hear a thing. And all the rooms have Revive bedding packages, which also helped us all get a good night’s rest.

Services/Amenities: Before our stay, I called the hotel to find out about the picnic area I saw on the website. Featuring picnic tables and a propane grill, I thought it would make a great spot for the softball team to gather for a barbecue one evening. The receptionist informed me we were more than welcome to use it, but we were not guaranteed to have it to ourselves. It ended up working out fine; although several other softball teams staying at the hotel had the same idea, we had our picnic early and finished our meal before two other teams came to share the space.

The hotel’s outdoor pool was a great place to cool off after a long day in the sun, but it was also nice to have the indoor pool since we did encounter some rain that week. We also enjoyed the comfortable seating areas near the outdoor pool.

The fitness room was open 24/7 and was equipped with both free weights and cardiovascular equipment.

We didn’t have time to try the on-site restaurant for any meals, but I was pleased when I discovered it served Starbucks coffee, a great way to begin every morning.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The friendly security guard who often checked in on the pools came out when we were at the picnic pavilion and offered us a ball to play with at the volleyball court. What a thoughtful gesture! ◆ If I had an early-morning flight out of Dulles, I would definitely choose to stay at this hotel. It provided plenty of amenities and easy access to the airport. ◆ I was worried the traffic into and out of the airport would be a problem, as we were constantly coming and going, but it was never an issue.

WASHINGTON DULLES AIRPORT MARRIOTT 45020 Aviation Drive Dulles, VA 20166 tel 703 471 9500 marriott.com

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GT tested

LATAM | PREMIUM BUSINESS CLASS

Boston (BOS) to São Paulo (GRU)

Reviewed by Kim Foley MacKinnon

On the Ground: After checking in at LATAM’s business-class desk at Boston Logan Airport and breezing through the priority screening line, I headed to the British Airways lounge. Since LATAM doesn’t have its own private lounge at Logan, it arranged for its Premium Business passengers to receive complimentary access to the BA lounge. When you check in, you receive a pass to the lounge. It’s no hardship; the expansive space has lots of room to relax in, with a full bar and a nice selection of food.

Earlier this year, LATAM Airlines Brasil launched non-stop flights between Boston and São Paulo, making it the only non-stop flight connecting the two cities. Operating Boeing 767 aircraft, flights offer 30 Premium Business seats and 191 economy-class seats. I was eager to experience what is basically the airline’s firstclass service on the approximately 10-hour flight. There was a bit of delay at the gate, and I saw Homeland Security staff escorting someone on to the flight. Their presence was not explained, but in pretty short order I was seated and offered water, a glass of Cava and an assorted nut selection.

In-Flight: Since this was an early evening flight, I wasn’t ready for bed, so I made my meal choices from the menu the flight attendants handed out and scrolled through the entertainment options.

Dinner included four courses, with a salad, soup and a choice of

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TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Flight attendants are friendly and attentive. ◆ Lie-flats seats with comfortable bedding make for a restful sleep.

three entrées and three desserts. I chose braised short ribs with roasted potatoes as my main dish, which was quite tasty, and vanilla flan for dessert. Other options included lobster ravioli and roast chicken. The airline takes pride in its wine list, so I went with the recommended wines selected by Héctor Vergara, the only Master Sommelier in Latin America and the airline’s consultant. The Trapiche Malbec from Argentina was a great match with the short ribs.

After dinner, I watched a couple of movies before taking advantage of my flat-bed seat to sleep for the rest of the flight. There are plenty of options for entertainment, with more than 150 films, television series, games and a music library. I slept well, clocking in about six solid hours of sleep. When I woke up refreshed, I opted for coffee and yogurt, while I saw others around me had chosen the full breakfast with scrambled eggs and sautéed mushrooms.

◆ The wine list gives you a taste of South America.

LATAM latam.com

PHOTOS: © LATAM

Pre-Flight: As I settled in, organizing my belongings and locating the outlets to plug in my smartphone later, again there was a bit of a to-do, this time with someone being escorted off the plane. When I asked what was going on, a flight attendant said there was a ticketing issue. We finally took off after a brief delay and, in the end, didn’t lose much time.

The Premium Business-class seats are arranged in pairs, with six seats in a row. The seats recline to a fully horizontal position, becoming a bed 23 inches wide and 76.5 inches long, plenty long enough for my 5-foot, 4-inch frame. A pillow and comforter were already at each seat, ready for those passengers who wanted to get to sleep as soon as possible. We received amenity kits filled with L’Occitane products, including a toothbrush and toothpaste, lip balm, an eye mask and lotion.

It’s worth noting LATAM is about to embark on a major overhaul of much of its fleet, rolling out changes as early as the end of 2018. It will transform the cabins of its Boeing 767 and Boeing 777 aircraft, with larger Premium Business seat configurations. Each will have direct aisle access and options for both individuals and couples, as well as a full-flat bed, new entertainment consoles and more space for belongings. The added space and more privacy will be more than welcome.

one on one

CHARLES E. “CHILLY” EWING, SR. Director of Concessions, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Airports are still playing catch-up with technology. I predict airports will follow the trends on the street when it comes to concessions: self-checkouts, seamless payments, increased speed of service.

Best career advice you’ve received: When I was in the military, I received a rolled-up scroll with 10 two-letter words to live by, attributed to anonymous: “If it is to be, it is up to me.”

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Be patient. Know what you want. Find the right opportunity and be willing to relocate. For someone starting at the airport, I’d say take a little time to get to know it. Things change constantly here.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Mostly during my 27 years with the United States Air Force, I’ve flown almost all but eight aeronautical hours around the world.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Always have screenshots of your travel documents. There are always phone issues, and this means you won’t have to move out of line.

Best advice for business travelers: Pack light. Most people don’t like to check bags, but I say get rid of the carry-on and check as much as possible.

PHOTO: © GLOBAL TRAVELER

ABOUT YOUR BRAND In your opinion, what are the highlights of dining at ATL? The varied food choices are a highlight. I’m proud to say we boast quite a selection. Our dining options reflect on the city; we’ve brought in local restaurants. The airport serves as an introduction to Atlanta through its food choices. With 70 percent of our traffic connecting, the airport is our chance to highlight Atlanta and Georgia. This month, we host our fourth annual Taste of Hartsfield-Jackson, which really brings our food and beverage outlets together to benefit charity.

Name: Charles E. “Chilly” Ewing, Sr. Title: Director of concessions Company, city: Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport; Atlanta, Georgia Number of employees: 63,000 employees overall; 6,000 in concessions Recent project: Completing request for proposals for new concession vendors, and our Global Runway event First job: As a youngster, I worked at a newsstand. Then I spent 27 years in the Air Force and served in Vietnam and Desert Storm.

Little-known fact about you: I love to ride motorcycles and I love to golf.

Tell us about Hartsfield-Jackson’s Global Runway. Global Runway is a fashion presentation and retail pop-up experience that allows us to spotlight our fashion and retail concessionaires, and we offer everything from the extravagant to the thrifty. Passengers, retailers and airport staff really enjoy the event. It also includes a silent auction that benefits Bert’s Big Adventure, a nonprofit providing trips to Walt Disney World for children with chronic or terminal illnesses and their family.

What can travelers expect from ATL in 2019? We’ll replace the food and beverage outlets in international Concourse E. Also, 88 retail stores could be changed, with leases expiring. There are no first rights for incumbents; our goal is to refresh the options with what’s new and exciting today for our passengers.

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one on one | CEO series

PETER INGRAM President and CEO, Hawaiian Airlines I can fit my gym shoes and electronic devices.

Best advice for business travelers: Think ahead of what you need for a long flight and get it ready so you can relax and be most efficient on the trip, whether it’s movies, music, reading materials or work.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Hawaiian Airlines recently announced several new routes; what is in store for 2019? Bringing A321neos into the fleet is one of our biggest indicatives for the rest of 2018 and into 2019, opening new markets on the mainland as well as more direct non-stops to Maui and Kauai. We are launching our partnership with Japan Airlines; Phase One started in March with codeshare flights and the distribution of Hawaiian flights through JALPAK, or tour packages, with great early results. We expect Phase Two to begin in 2019, giving Hawaiian passengers options and easy connectivity throughout Japan while we lend our expertise of the islands to JAL.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? As technology advances, the segmentation of products will evolve on airlines. We have become more thoughtful product marketers and design each cabin to offer guests a flight experience tailored to their needs, whether they come to Hawai’i for leisure or business, as couples or families. Our Extra Comfort class is popular because we price it smartly between first class and the main cabin as an upgrade option.

Best career advice you’ve received: To be the best

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at something, you need to have a true passion about it every day. As a research analyst in my 20s, I realized I wasn’t passionate about it and went back to school to change direction.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? The airline industry is fascinating and always presents a new challenge. Be curious and take advantage of opportunities. Things will fall into place, though it might not be a straight line to your final destination. I admire the younger generation’s curiosity to try different things.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Sometimes the strongest memories are the experiences that don’t go well. Years ago, while I worked for American Airlines, we traveled with our two young children to Jamaica around spring break. On the way back there was a flight disruption, and we raced through Miami International Airport with bags upon bags, trying to figure out our next flight and how to navigate the terminal. It seemed like the world was coming to an end, but we made it through.

One travel tip you cannot live without: I am a hyper-organized traveler, specific in what I bring in my backpack and suitcase. I segment everything so

Tell us about your Exclusive Reef Protection Initiative with Raw Elements USA. Air travel allows the world to come together and share cultures. We are proud to help introduce Hawai’i’s culture to our guests but also recognize our business consumes resources like fuel, and tourism impacts the environment. One example is the erosion of reefs close to the island’s beaches due to toxins in sunscreen.

Our partnership with Raw Elements raises awareness about our fragile oceans while promoting sustainability. We offer guests on our North American routes complimentary samples and discounted bottles of Raw Elements Eco-Formula sunscreen.

We take great responsibility in caring for our home and partner with companies to leverage our message of sustainability and invite change.

PHOTO: © HAWAIIAN AIRLINES

Name: Peter Ingram Title: President and CEO Company, city: Hawaiian Airlines; Honolulu, Hawai’i Number of employees: 7,153 worldwide Recent project: Integrating the Airbus A321neos into our fleet; we will have 11 by the end of 2018 and 18 by 2020. Also, 10 Boeing 787-9s will join our fleet starting in 2021.

First job: I delivered the Toronto Star at age 10, including in the winter.

Little-known fact about you: I enjoy hiking Koko Crater Trail in East Honolulu, with its 1,000-plus steps. On my 50th birthday I hiked it three times to prove I could do it.

What can premium travelers expect from a Hawaiian Airlines flight? We just retrofitted our 24 Airbus A330 aircraft to offer complete lie-flat seating in our Premium Cabin. We worked with a team on a bespoke design suited for a premium seat on a leisure airline. It is important to offer guests the sense of vacation and the Hawai’ian experience the minute they come on board, starting with our cabin crew showing our unique aloha spirit and hospitality.

Our food and beverage service shares our Hawai’ian individuality, with island-inspired dishes, beverages like Bikini Blonde Lager from the Maui Brewing Co. and sweet treats from Honolulu Cookie Co.

technology

BRING IT ON Meet the demands of daily life with better, faster, smarter tools. BY JACK GUY

HAIBIKE SDURO HARDSEVEN 4.0 Electric bikes are becoming more and more common in our cities, but what if you want to go farther than ever before off-road? Electric mountain bikes like the SDURO HardSeven 4.0 are light and powerful enough to take you up hill and down dale, and 120mm Suntour XCR suspension forks mean it can handle the rough stuff, too. A Bosch Performance CX motor brings the latest technology to the drive train, and 180mm Tektro Hydraulic disk brakes help you safely handle the speed. $2,799. haibikeusa.com LG OLEDC8P Widely regarded as the best television on the market, this OLED model from LG received rave reviews for its picture quality and strong bright-room performance. It’s available in 55-, 65- and 77-inch models; but whichever size you choose, you’re getting a whole lot of TV. With 4K Cinema HDR, Dolby Atmos sound and LG ThinQ artificial intelligence, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a stronger performer in a crowded field. From $2,299. lg.com

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HUAWEI MATEBOOK X PRO This latest effort from Huawei looks set to take the business laptop by storm, thanks to a combination of impressive power and great design at an accessible price. The 13.9-inch touchscreen display has almost no bezel, and there’s a pop-up camera that looks like a key on the keyboard. Under the hood, the premium $1,500 model packs in Intel Core i7 processing, 16GB RAM and a 512GB SSD, as well as NVIDIA GeForce MX150 graphics. Not only does it look impressive, the MateBook X Pro packs a real punch. From $1,200. huawei.com

PHOTOS: © GARMIN, © HAIBIKE, © HUAWEI, © LG

GARMIN VÍVOSMART 3 When it comes to specialized fitness trackers, the Garmin Vívosmart 3 is one of the best around. The touchscreen tracker is completely waterproof, so you can wear it in the swimming pool, the shower and the gym. The tech automatically monitors different types of activity, plus a built-in heart-rate monitor gives you a stress rating.

There are many fitness trackers on the market, but the Vívosmart 3 comes into its own in the gym, with a strength training mode that counts reps, sets and rest times. All of the data is available on the great Garmin Connect app. $119.99. garmin.com

WHAT INSPIRES US?

FULL MOON OVER THE PACIFIC

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E N G I N E E R E D F O R R E A L I T Y . G U A R A N T E E D F O R L I F E .™

Silver moons. Silver seas. Silver anniversaries.

Celebrating 25 years of performance and style.

Introducing Sympatico ™ Silver Anniversary Edition.

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wine & spirits

THE REAL THING

, exico In M kull the s s olize symb al tern e e h t n ectio conn he een t w t e b d al an mort rtal immo ds. worl

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IT IS AN AUSTRIAN TAKE on a Mexican original. And yet it is a product of Mexico totally true to its Mexican origins. It is Padre azul, a tequila born out of an intercontinental love affair. Adrian Alvarez Maxemin, from Guadalajara, Mexico, was studying German in Heidelberg, Germany, when she met HP Eder, an Austrian working at a local bank. After they fell in love, they went to Mexico to meet her family, and Eder tasted his first true tequila. For him, it was “the most delicious spirit I had ever had.”

Eder was enthralled with true tequila, with Mexico and with its way of life. As he learned more about Mexico’s tequila, he contrasted it with the poor-quality European-made tequilas he had had and wondered if his Austrian friends would appreciate the real thing. By then, he was considering making it. Once his new father-in-law, Francisco, joined him, a number of Eder’s Austrian friends agreed to be part of the new project, and Padre azul was born.

True tequila is a distilled drink that, by law, must be made

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100 percent from the blue agave plant grown in defined areas of Mexico, mostly around the village of Tequila. Soon the new company found an excellent, small distillery in Amatitán, close to Tequila. There the piñas, or hearts of the agave, are grown for eight years before they are harvested. They are then smoked in old brick kilns, fermented, distilled and put into barrels. While most tequila reposado must by law be kept in barrels for two months, Padre azul Reposado is aged for eight months.

Padre azul is made in three forms: the young Blanco, Reposado and aged Añejo. Tasting Padre azul Reposado ($80), whose color is a clear, brilliant gold, I was impressed with its rich, smooth, round, velvety body and its equally smooth taste with a vanilla flavor, undertones of ripe pear and banana and a lingering finish. Overall, it’s an incredibly smooth, intensely flavored, wellbalanced tequila.

And it makes a stunning presentation in a leather-covered bottle with a metal skull as its stopper, as unique as the tequila itself.

​PHOTO: © PADRE AZUL

Discover the premium tequila inspired by true love. BY EUNICE FRIED

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wealth

RISKS AND REWARDS

RECENTLY, FEDERAL RESERVE Chairman Jerome Powell sugeven want to purchase a business. When interest rates are ingested he expects the Federal Reserve to continue gradually raising creased, it reduces the amount of borrowing a business does. This interest rates if the U.S. economic expansion remains strong. The frequently has the effect of slowing the economy, as businesses Federal Reserve has a target 2 percent rate for inflation. At this tend to become a bit more conservative and become spectators as time the economy is growing at close to that rate, and customarthey assess their future. Increased interest rates not only impact ily that means the Federal Reserve will vote to increase interest the growth of businesses but also make them a little less profitable rates. Why would it mess with a good economy? Many people as their expenses increase as they pay more interest dollars on their ask that same question — President loans due to a higher interest rate.

Trump is one of them. Chairman Increased interest rates also impact If businesses aren’t borrowing Powell’s stated goal is to strike a employment, and generally it is a negabalance, maximizing employment tive impact. If businesses aren’t bormoney to grow their businesses and keeping price increases stable. So rowing money to grow their businesses or to purchase new equipment, what is the big deal if interest rates or to purchase new equipment, odds are increased? odds are they are not hiring more are they are not hiring more employees When workforce wages rise, these and, potentially, are reducing their employees and, potentially, are costs are frequently passed on to the workforce. reducing their workforce. customers via a higher sales price.

So while you may not pay much This increased pricing then can attention to “something that does not create inflation, creating a need to inimpact you,” interest rate changes truly crease interest rates, which could cause a recession. In a recession, impact everyone in one form or another. Our Federal Reserve not as many tax dollars are collected, and that negatively impacts team really has a lot to consider when deciding on interest rate the government’s budget. changes, both up and down. They study a significant amount Interest rates come into play in a business setting when an of data to arrive at their conclusion, knowing they have to think entity wants to borrow money to help it in one of a variety of about our entire economy. That little old interest rate really is darn ways. It could borrow money because it is a seasonal business, it important and merits our attention. It is a harbinger of things to may want to purchase new equipment for its operations, or it may come.

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PHOTO: © STOCKBAKERY | DREAMSTIME.COM

How do changing interest rates impact our economy?

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Welcome Onboard LOT Polish Airlines Experience Polish hospitality with a flight on the national carrier.

Onomichi

ONE CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE of Polish hospitality is the readiness to accommodate oneself to the needs of the guest and even anticipate such needs. Polish hospitality also means an open heart, warmth, directness and simplicity. We want LOT guests to leave our aircraft in a good mood.

For us, hospitality also means a constant improvement of our offerings. It is important to us when our passengers travel comfortably, quickly and safely. This is why we invariably expand our connection offerings, so our passengers can travel directly and conveniently to more and more locations in the world.

ENJOY FLIGHTS ON DREAMLINERS While celebrating more than 89 years of aviation history, LOT has one of the youngest and most modern fleets in Europe. LOT has significantly modernized its fleet; the airline is purchasing new aircraft, including state of-the-art Boeing aircraft

(Boeing 737 MAX, Boeing 787 Dreamliner and Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner). For long-haul flights, the787 Dreamliner is the exclusive aircraft, valued highly for increased cabin pressure and humidity levels, enhancing passenger comfort and reducing the effects of jet lag. A three-class Dreamliner offers travelers LOT Business Class, LOT Premium Economy and LOT Economy Class.

DISCOVER LOT’S TRAVEL CLASSES Sit comfortably and relax during your flight in LOT Premium Economy. Enjoy a number of special features from the moment you book a ticket. We increased baggage limits to your convenience and made boarding as fast as possible. Comfortable seats, regional cuisine and professional service make your flight go fast and delightfully. LOT Premium Economy is a modern class that guarantees top-class comfort and world standards of onboard services for an affordable price.

Are you expecting perfect conditions to relax or work during the flight? Choose LOT Business Class and enjoy the highest level of comfort and privacy, diverse menus and a wide variety of entertainment on board. With you in mind, LOT developed worldclass travel standards that guarantees comfort and privacy in the air and on the ground.

LOT DYNAMICALLY GROWS The non-stop services to Poland includes four airports in the United States: New York (JFK), Newark (EWR), Chicago (ORD) and Los Angeles (LAX). We offer convenient layovers to passengers traveling onward in Europe. Also, LOT is developing dynamically in Hungary, where it offers non-stop flights to New York and Chicago. This year, LOT exceeded the magic number of over 100 different connections in its network.

Find out more at lot.com.

tours

SAVOR THE FLAVOR Get a taste for your destination on an innovative food tour. BY KRISTY ALPERT

GROWING TREND:

Eat Mexico cactus farm tour (left), tortilla-making (top right), and Mexico City street tacos (bottom right) ​PHOTOS: © ANA TELLO / EAT MEXICO, © ANA TELLO / EAT MEXICO, © ANTWONM | DREAMSTIME.COM

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ULTIMATELY, GETTING A TASTE for culture and adventure is what travel is all about, and now more than ever, travelers take that concept literally. Many use guidebooks or spend hours scouring local listings to find the greatest sips and bites in a given destination, whether they’re Michelin-rated or hidden among the stalls of a hawker market. In a recent study, the World Food Travel Association found 81 percent of survey responders believe eating and drinking help in understanding the local culture, noting culinary history and hospitality styles are what generally create the foundation of a destination’s character.

A remarkable 91 percent of travelers admit to creating longlasting and powerful memories based on their experiences with an area’s food and beverage offerings, according to the WFTA. Culinary travel is on the rise in nearly all parts of the world, with many innovative and in-depth food tours growing from the increased interest in savoring everything a destination offers.

In Mexico City visitors eat like a local on the curated food tours through the city organized by renowned cookbook author Lesley Téllez. Téllez started Eat Mexico in 2010 to help visitors navigate the vast network of sidewalk grills, market stalls, taquerias, and small, home-style kitchens called fondas. Her mission is to show people where locals eat, and her tours range from three-hour walks

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OCTOBER 2018

through the city to all-day excursions to uncover the inner workings of a nearby cactus farm before learning the art of tortilla-making from a skilled local tortillera.

Food tours are popping up in all corners of Europe and Asia, where tour operators like Zicasso, Intrepid Travel and Lonely Planet created a huge range of tours run by local guides who specialize in a specific city or even neighborhood. Food tours in Vail, Colorado, are conducted via bicycle with Vail Valley Food Tours to help visitors pack in as much as possible while in town, including taking in the stunning scenery along the bike paths for a calorie-neutral excursion.

The only way to access some of the most exclusive and hyperlocal spots in Montréal is by booking a food tour, as the city has become a hotbed for hard-to-find speakeasies. Local guide René Lemieux has guided tours around his hometown for decades and partnered with the AC Marriott Montréal through Tourism Montreal to give guests behind-the-scenes tours. Lemieux knows just about everyone in town, which means he also knows all the secrets for entering the super-exclusive speakeasies that freckle the city, like looking for the image of a rubber duck before entering through what appears to be a refrigerator but is actually the entrance to one of the city’s hottest bars, ironically named The Coldroom.

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The number of Marriott Rewards points needed for a standard reward free night starts at 7,500 points. Refer to MarriottRewards.com for all reward redemption values. © 2018 JPMorgan Chase & Co. All rights reserved.

spas

COASTAL CALM Find your bliss at SeaHill Spa at The Cavalier in Virginia Beach. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

HYDRO HEAVEN: Ladies’ whirlpool PHOTO: © SEAHILL SPA

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LYING ON A TABLE WITH WARM QUARTZ “sand” conforming to and cushioning my body rather than a traditional massage table, I felt the stresses of the world leaving my body with every stroke of the masseuse’s hands. The state of complete relaxation to which I was succumbing was preceded by a gentle, full-body dry brushing and quiet time in a deep-soaking Halo Tub. Had I found heaven, or was this merely bliss?

I was enjoying the Ocean and Warm Sand Ritual at SeaHill Spa at The Cavalier Hotel in Virginia Beach, Virginia. The 100-minute treatment features benefits in each of its three fully customized parts: eliminating toxins, relieving stress and boosting circulation through dry brushing; more detoxing and stimulating the collagen replenishment cycle during a soak in the Halo Tub filled with warm water sprinkled with wild gigartina algae; and, of course, encouraging physical and mental relaxation through the massage. The Ocean and Warm Sand Ritual is performed in the spa’s exclusive

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OCTOBER 2018

Wellness Room, with its Halo Tub and quartz massage table, so I did not need to move from one room to the next. What’s more, the quartz crystals that replicate natural sand ergonomically conform to the body and are believed to naturally cleanse and rebalance the body’s chakras, or energy centers.

When it opened earlier this year on the lower level of The Cavalier Hotel, a historic property that debuted this spring after nearly $85 million in renovations, SeaHill Spa had a vision to combine traditional services with modern methods and amenities. Its intention: to promote inner peace and harmony within its nine treatment rooms. Complementing its luxurious services, with plenty from which to choose within the spa’s treatment menu, guests are invited to begin or continue their relaxation within the 6,200-square-foot spa and its co-ed Himalayan Salt Room, sauna, steam room or whirlpool. Just outside the spa, the hotel’s indoor pool and hot tub provide even more lounging opportunities.

Back inside the spa, one of the signature ocean-themed facials on SeaHill’s services menu is the 50-minute Ocean Crystal Facial.

Aquamarine crystals used in this facial are intended to connect you with the healing energies of the ocean in order to help reverse the aging process and encourage the flow of uplifting energy. Or consider the Ocean Tailored Facial. This 50-minute OSEA, 100 percent vegan treatment features organic Patagonian seaweed to improve the skin’s condition and enhance its appearance. A cranial-facial massage gets the blood flowing, too.

In addition to its more traditional massage and facial treatments, SeaHill Spa offers a variety of body therapies that incorporate the spa’s Hydro Capsule, a self-contained sensory spa system that includes steam, shower, vibration massage and LED lighting.

Whether you enjoy a scrub or wrap — consider the Salts of the Earth Scrub or the Hydrating Wrap — you will delight in not having to put forth any effort as your therapist utilizes the capsule to continue your treatment seamlessly, rather than having to get up and into a shower or tub for rinsing.

Couples who want to spa together can choose from four 120-minute treatments performed in the Couple’s Suite: Aroma Balancing Retreat; Magnesium Wellness Treatment; Detox Ceremony; or Bourbon Tea Nutri-Body Wrap, using The Cavalier’s own bourbon from its on-site distillery, Tarnished Truth Distilling Co. Afterward, they can enjoy the private suite with its soaking tub for two for even more relaxation.

SeaHill Spa’s salon services run the gamut from a traditional cut and dry to coloring and styling for special events. Manicures and pedicures are performed in a comfortable setting, and the mani bar doubles as a blow-dry bar. The

INNER PEACE:

Hydro Capsule (top), Himalayan Salt Room (left), and Gharieni quartz sand bed PHOTOS: © SEAHILL SPA

salon’s spacious design enables its staff to accommodate large groups and bridal parties, complete with makeup services for the big day.

You’ll find plenty of ways to spend time relaxing at SeaHill Spa in Virginia Beach. Whichever way you choose, you are certain to find your bliss.

SeaHill Spa at The Cavalier Hotel 4200 Atlantic Ave. Virginia Beach, VA 23451 tel 757 321 4545 seahillspa.com

OCTOBER 2018

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golf

OUTER BANKS OASIS Book an outing at Kitty Hawk’s Duck Woods Country Club. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

APPROACH WITH CAUTION: Hole 4 PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

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DUCK WOODS IS A PRIVATE country club just over the Wright Memorial Bridge as you enter Kitty Hawk, North Carolina, the home of the first flight by Orville and Wilbur Wright. Even though the course is private, a simple call to the pro shop secures you and your group a tee time, and the club happily takes your payment. Weather conditions over the past winter took their toll on the courses in the Outer Banks, and Sea Scape and Nags Head Golf Links experienced a great deal of damage to the fairways from the cold. The conditions at Sea Scape were so bad this summer, the course offered significant discounts to play. The exception appears to be Duck Woods. Perhaps the course is just protected well enough from the elements or has an exceptional grounds crew, but the course was in pristine condition the two times I played in July. Kudos to the groundskeeper and the greens committee!

Designed by Ellis Maples, the course opened in 1968. Maples was one of the undisputed kings of North Carolina golf, second only to the famed Donald Ross, who trained Maples. Known to do more with less, Maples worked primarily with the topography of the land and crafted the course to fit into its surroundings. This is prevalent at

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Duck Woods. While on vacation in Kitty Hawk, I teed up with Paul Gosselin and my brother Gerry, as well as Duck Woods member Mike Askew. The Duck Woods employees make for an enjoyable round, and the course never seems overcrowded.

HOLE 1 | 497 yards, par 4

The dreaded first hole leaves little for one to escape. Without a clean, straight shot to the fairway, players are likely to catch the canal that runs along the entire right side of the hole. Trees flank the left — playable, but they can cause you to lose a stroke. Your second shot to the green requires clearing a branch of the canal that dissects the fairways at about 100 yards from the green. This makes for some comical shots that dribble into the water, or even some more adventurous ones that catch the bridge and make it successfully over — I recall Gerry taking this route. After a great drive, I landed right of the green and chipped on for a bogey, leaving my teammates in the dust and water.

HOLE 4 | 355 yards, par 4

Off the tee box your direction can be confusing, as two trees located

on the right side of the fairway appear to be in play. Aim your drive left center, making sure you keep the ball in play, as the left side falls off into water. This was Paul’s fate. The water continues up the left side and then turns right, creating a pond near the front of the entire green; this was Gerry’s fate. I hit a textbook drive to the center left. My approach was just short of the green, so a simple chip and a two-putt secured a bogey.

HOLE 6 | 403 yards, par 4

Another deceptive hole from the tee box requires players to drive the ball far enough on the right side to avoid the marsh and water on the left. The water/marsh is not clearly visible, and any strong drive in this area will almost surely be wet, like mine. Gerry, Paul and Mike took a “righter”-side trajectory, landing safely. I had the drop and took a penalty, continuing my comedy of errors and catching the sand trap on the right. A pair of bogeys won the hole, secured by Mike and Paul.

HOLE 11 | 180 yards, par 3

Most of the par 3s at Woods are straightforward, but this one can be tricky, as it plays a little longer than the card suggests.

Many golfers simply do not use enough club and end up in the right bunker or, worse, in the marsh along the right side. I took a mid-iron and nailed a golf shot to the center of the green.

Paul followed suit; Mike and Gerry fell for the traps on the right. Making par is a reward on Hole 11!

HOLE 15 | 387 yards, par 4

Holes 15, 16 and 18 are challenging closing holes and really separate the men from the boys. Gerry recently secured a dozen new Callaway balls and proceeded to pepper a bunch into the marsh on the left. Big hitters can get into trouble on 15’s dogleg left, as it is feasible to reach the water that cuts across the fairway about 140 yards from the green. Paul drove his ball long but slightly right, passing through the fairway and ending up in the rough on Hole 10. (It really was a monster of a drive.) Unfortunately, trees made his approach less than desirable. Mike and I hit near-perfect drives, rewarded by a series of high fives. I overshot the green on the approach, but my trusty lob wedge got me close enough to one-putt for par — a jaw-dropping sight for my teammates.

HOLE 18 | 516 yards, par 5

A challenging hole to close out an architectural gem in the Outer Banks.

Maples used everything at his disposal to make a narrow and long hole with a small green tucked into the left side. Not known for his fairway bunkers, Maples put one just on the left side, and it caught my drive off the tee, destroying my hopes for parring 18. Others in the group let the pressure get the best of them, driving into the woods on the left. The prime shot is right center; then you can take a fairway wood and drive the ball within a hundred yards of the hole. Bunkers line the green on the right, and a pond cuts in on the front left two-thirds, wrapping around the back. A little throat opens on the right side, occasionally allowing balls to roll on, but more often they end up wet. Balls landing on the green tend to move right to left toward the water. A double bogey for me and Gerry and a bogey for Mike and Paul ended an enjoyable round at Duck Woods.

IN THE DRINK: Hole 4 signage showing the water hazard (top), and after-golf drink (bottom) PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Duck Woods Country Club 50 S. Dogwood Trail Southern Shores, NC 27949 tel 252 261 2744 duckwoodscc.com

OCTOBER 2018

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chefs

LOCAL FLAIR

HE STARTED EARLY — LITERALLY. Chef Michael Bates-Walsh’s career began in high school, when he made bagels before class. His skillset greatly broadened after experiences at a variety of restaurants, inns and resorts. Today he brings his techniques to The Copper Grouse at Kimpton Taconic Hotel in Manchester, Vermont.

His seasonal menus with regional, locally sourced, sustainable ingredients and attention to specific dietary needs are on display at The Copper Grouse, rooted in the traditions of American craft cooking. Artisan spirits, beers and wine; attentive service; and convivial and community-oriented dining experiences complement the fresh cuisine.

Bates-Walsh joins Kimpton Taconic Hotel from Beauport Hotel in Gloucester, Massachusetts. Having worked at various other locales in Vermont, including Westin Portland Harborview Hotel and Equinox Resort, he is eager to return home and to his roots in his role at The Copper Grouse.

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I find Italy very inspiring. Each region has unique flavors and techniques that highlight the ingredients available seasonally and locally.

I’ve kept that in mind throughout my culinary career and place a high priority on highlighting local flavors in all my menus.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Jeremiah Tower is, without a doubt, my culinary hero. His innovative thinking, passion and simple elegance redefined American cuisine in a way no other chef had done before him or has since.

He demonstrated a high-end restaurant doesn’t have to be stuffy; it’s just all about great food and great service — all done with great energy.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? It’s hard to pick one, but I think Daniel Jackson had the greatest influence on my cooking style because of his similar thinking to Jeremiah Tower.

He taught me to not overthink menu items, to let the quality ingredients do the work, and that flawlessly executed, simple dishes are often more impactful than the most complex ones. He demonstrated an appreciation for local, seasonal flavors that highlight the personality of a restaurant and location — and an ability to bring the heart of a place to each dish.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? San Francisco — it’s a melting pot of all different kinds of cuisine while at the same time being arguably the birthplace of a unique American cuisine.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? In many restaurants, menu items have become so complex. I expect we’ll see the trend of “going back to basics” with an emphasis on simple dishes with simple items. These days, people are becoming more ingredient-conscious, and dishes and products with fewer ingredients are becoming more and more popular.

Or maybe the all-day, notjust-for-breakfast sandwich?

Who doesn’t love a good egg sandwich?

THE COPPER GROUSE Kimpton Taconic Hotel 3835 Main St. Manchester, VT 05254 tel 802 362 0147 taconichotel.com

PHOTOS: © KIMPTON TACONIC HOTEL / THE COPPER GROUSE

Chef Michael Bates-Walsh touts the seasonal and sustainable at The Copper Grouse in Vermont. BY KIMBERLY KROL

cruising

CULTURAL EXCHANGE East meets West on sailings to Asia. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER AS PASSENGERS FROM CHINA and other Asian nations book cruises to the “exotic” West in record numbers, the opposite is also true. Luxury cruise lines in the West expand their sailings to the once “mysterious” East.

Windstar Cruises leads the pack in this international exchange, increasing its premium small-ship offerings with seven new cruise-tours across Asia in 2019. These 12- to 17-day explorations employ the 212-passenger Star Legend, an all-suite vessel with exceptional dining.

(Windstar is the official cruise line of the James Beard Foundation.) The new cruises focus on Asia’s modern cities and ancient sites, from China’s Great Wall to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. One cruise-tour covers sites in China, Japan and South Korea; another calls on the wonders of Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam; and a third voyage, from Cambodia to Hong Kong, stops in Malaysia, the Philippines, Brunei and Borneo.

For passengers especially intrigued by Japan, Abercrombie & Kent stages a 2019 off-the-beatenpath cruise there May 30–June 13 aboard Ponant’s 199-passenger Le Soleal. This voyage has proven extremely popular in the past, and it is filling fast this time around. Shore excursions include a geisha performance in the Samurai-saturated city of Kanazawa and a noodle-making opportunity in Takamatsu, gateway to Shikoku Island. The cruise includes two nights in Kyoto and port calls at Matsu (the “Town of Water”), Sado Island and Hokkaido, plus a special stop at South Korea’s ancient capital, Gyeongju, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

For China fanciers, Uniworld added a second Yangtze River ship for the 2019 season, the refurbished 124-passenger Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer, a contemporary boutique-style vessel with private balconies and a one-to-one crew-to-passenger ratio. Uniworld’s 11-day Highlights of China & the Yangtze will feature an optional six-day pre-cruise trip to Mongolia and the Gobi Desert.

A notably unusual Asian river cruise has been mounted for 2019 by Minor Hotels’ Mekong Kingdoms cruise division in Laos. The Gypsy is a two-cabin, four-passenger boutique barge that sails the Mekong River on three- and four-day cruises between the Laotian capital of Luang Prabang and Thailand’s Golden Triangle. The wooden river boat boasts a dining area midship and a panoramic open deck at its bow. The all-inclusive cost covers an English-speaking guide, while shore excursions run the gamut from mountain biking, jungle trekking and whiskey tasting to a weaving workshop, an elephant camp visit and a limestone cave tour.

Most Western-based international cruise lines offer Asian sailings, and the industry soared in this part of the world. With passenger numbers jumping 20 percent last year alone, it is prudent for cruise passengers to book well ahead for a maritime journey to the East.

ONBOARD OPTIONS:

Uniworld’s Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer dumpling-making session (top), exterior (middle), and tea demonstration (bottom) PHOTOS: © UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE RIVER COLLECTION

s, ruise c n a i As rge in lready u s e h t . is a With Asia bbean i t r s a a e C h Sout s the New a hailed OCTOBER 2018

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feature | hotel update

Ultimate Opulence

Jumeirah’s new chief executive officer, who joined this leading luxury hotel group in March 2018.

At the helm Silva brings a trove of luxury hospitality experience, including 27 years with Four Seasons. As an award-winning, upscale hotel veteran, he gained fame in the industry for his acumen, Jumeirah elevates its elite status worldwide. BY BECCA HENSLEY foresight and canny expertise, proved in a variety of re-envisioning projects including the Four Seasons Georges V Paris. Silva, who garnered Hotelier of the Year from Virtuoso, the leading luxury travel advisor network, currently oversees Jumeirah as it multiplies its AT JUMEIRAH FRANKFURT, a towering, 208-room luxury outreach and supersizes its realm. With nine hotels opening this year — hotel — just steps from the Zell, this German regional capital’s not to mention the sister group, Zabeel House by Jumeirah, now up and busiest shopping hub — 40,000 bees buzz happily on the rooftop. running — the expansion promises to stay true to Jumeirah’s original Monitored by the hotel’s own beekeeper and executive chef, the principles. Zabeel House by Jumeirah aims at insects supply enough honey for the a broad demographic of business and leisure urbane hotel’s kitchen as well as its ‘Our primary aim is [to] make our travelers in search of enriching travel experilocally themed spa (try the Skyline ences. Three properties are currently open in ritual, which uses a honey paste to guests feel that they are at the Dubai. enrich the skin). A regional amenity center of our universe.’

“Our primary aim is [to] make our guests which references Germany’s artisan — José Silva, Jumeirah’s new chief executive officer feel that they are at the center of our unifood culture, the honey program verse,” says Silva, explaining Arabian hospitalproves Jumeirah’s commitment to ity, relatively unknown to many travelers, takes embracing community culture — a service to a posture beyond five stars. Add in unique architecture, significant element of the brand’s philosophy. This trend away stellar food and beverage options and staff trained to smile first and from homogeneity clearly sets the two-decades-old, Dubai-based rarely use the word “No,” and Jumeirah offers travelers that consiscorporation apart. tent layer of accessible opulence which some upscale hotels lack.

“No two Jumeirah hotels will be exactly alike,” says José Silva,

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Founded in 1997 with the aim of building a world-class, luxury hotel portfolio, Jumeirah Group became a member of Dubai Holding (a global investment developer with an immense collection) in 2004. With 15 properties in the Middle East, including the iconic flagship Burj Al Arab (the most photographed and Instagrammed hotel in the world), five in Europe, two in Asia and a multitude under construction, Jumeirah mushroomed since its inception. “Dubai is a city that makes the impossible possible, and it is with this vision and boldness that Jumeirah has seen itself grow into the leading hospitality company,” says Silva. “We have a strong identity that has international appeal.” Seizing on its Dubai model of conviction and dream fulfillment, Jumeirah plans to step confidently further into the global market in coming years.

Describing Jumeirah’s growth strategy as “nimble,” Silva explains the corporation will grow via both acquisition and through hotel management agreements. As it maintains its current focus on elevating its already elite standards, the company will stay “committed to continuous improvement and to placing the guest at the heart of the experience.” With properties from Spain to the Maldives, from Dubai to London, Jumeirah already has successfully established a reputation for deluxe variety and thoughtful sense of place. Even its staff, pulled from across 140 nationalities speaking a plethora of languages, enriches the fabric of each hotel, ensuring the deliberate celebration of each unique location. “No matter if you are experiencing The

Terrace at our remarkable Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, exploring the magnificent waterways of Madinat Jumeirah, enjoying a city break at Jumeirah Carlton Tower or one of our other London hotels, or discovering the history of the Sóller Valley at Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel and Spa in Mallorca, guests can be sure their experiences will stay with them forever,” says Silva, who promises that no matter how large the brand grows it will stay “culturally connected.”

Going forward, Jumeirah plans to make food and beverage the core pillar of the guest experience at each of its hotels. “Over the last decade, hotels have become more than just a place of accommodation,” says Silva. “I see dining as one of our strongest difference-makers.”

Following the model established by Jumeirah in Dubai, where the organization operates more than 60 restaurants along a 1.5-mile stretch of peerless beachfront, it plans to up its gourmet ante in both new and extant properties. To wit, Silva appointed the ex-global director for the highly respected Michelin Restaurant and Hotel Guides, Michael Ellis, as Jumeirah’s first chief culinary officer. Anticipate a slew of new restaurant concepts under his tutelage. “He’ll enhance existing dining options, as well, to unanticipated levels,” says Silva.

Where should travelers expect to see some of the newest Jumeirah hotels? From China to Bali to Oman to Abu Dhabi, the list is long.

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THE BUZZ:

(Left to right) Beekeeper at Jumeirah Frankfurt, spa at Jumeirah Frankfurt, slow-cooked barramundi at Jumeirah Vittaveli, food at Jumeirah Frankfurt, and warm welcome at Jumeirah at Etihad Towers PHOTOS: © JUMEIRAH

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Frequent travelers to Dubai will be pleased to know about Al Seef Heritage Hotel by Jumeirah, opened in September. It plays up an Arabian Nights dreamscape, complete with Emirati hospitality. Mimicking the rooftops and courtyards of a traditional souk, it layers the banks of Dubai Creek.

A 200-room hotel spread across 22 traditionally designed Arabian homes, it features classic wind towers, views of the nostalgic waterway and an old-world Arabia ambience.

Architecture buffs and visitors to China will be pleased to note the long-awaited, Zaha Hadiddesigned Jumeirah Nanjing opened in the fall, just a one-hour train ride from Shanghai in the Hexi New District. Part of a mixed-use entertainment, commercial and retail area, the hotel reflects China’s contemporary, über-forward-thinking edge. Also in China, slated for a November opening, Jumeirah Guangzhou is poised to redefine the commercial center. Featuring 124 premier rooms and spa suites (located steps from the Talise Spa), it also encompasses Jumeirah Living Guangzhou, a complex of 169 serviced apartments.

Mark your calendars for 2019, when Jumeirah Bali welcomes guests to the southern tip of the Jimbaran district. Overlooking the noteworthy surfer beach adjacent to the New Kuta Golf Course, the all-private villa retreat, modeled after a Javanese water palace, will include three restaurants, a spa and a state-of-the-art fitness center.

Below, we showcase a handful of Jumeirah’s most popular hotels.

DISTINCTIVE STYLE:

Jumeirah Nanjing (top), Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel & Spa (middle), and Burj Al Arab Jumeirah (bottom) PHOTOS: © JUMEIRAH

BURJ AL ARAB JUMEIRAH | DUBAI

Demographic: Luxury travelers in search of a splurge Offerings: The all-suite hotel, claiming 7-star service, specializes in upscale arrivals. Think chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royce or helicopter transfer to its iconic helipad.

Highlights: Take photos in front of its sail-shaped architecture and spend time on The Terrace, an expanse of beach, pools, restaurants and butlerhelmed cabanas, all ensconced in a marine-oriented architectural wonder.

JUMEIRAH PORT SOLLER HOTEL & SPA | MALLORCA

Demographic: Leisure travelers, honeymooners, culinary travelers, athletes, girlfriend getaways, solo travelers Offerings: Set on a cliff, this intimate hotel has 121 chic, commodious rooms spread across 11 Mediterranean-style buildings. Surrounded by gardens, each room sports a terrace with either sea or mountain views.

Highlights: Three restaurants offer local specialties. Try Es Fanals for Mediterranean fare, poised at the highest point of the hotel. Sign up for the sunset boat trip along the northern coast of the island, with the Tramuntana Mountain Range in view.

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JUMEIRAH VITTAVELI | MALDIVES

Demographic: Honeymooners and leisure, family and wellness travelers Offerings: Just a 20-minute, motorized catamaran ride from the airport in Malé, this hotel boasts 89 villas and suites, each with private swimming pools.

Freestanding Ocean Suites spell romance, while twobedroom villas have plenty of room for family groups.

Highlights: Vittaveli has the largest kids club in the Maldives, a 5-star PADI dive center and offers fitness travelers customized wellness programs and superior spa treatments, complete with island-made products.

GROSVENOR HOUSE SUITES BY JUMEIRAH LIVING | LONDON

Demographic: High-end business travelers, family and luxury travelers Offerings: Like living in London, these luxury, serviced apartments incorporate the chichi aspects of a Mayfair residence with the ease of staff. As London’s most exclusive address, the apartments overlook Hyde Park.

Highlights: Take advantage of the At Home with Jumeirah Living offer, a program which supports your living the luxury London life at Grosvenor. Staff will help you organize a dinner party, set up an office, stock your apartment with groceries — whatever you need during your stay.

JUMEIRAH AT ETIHAD TOWERS | ABU DHABI Demographic: Business, leisure, luxury and family travelers Offerings: Beachside, this extraordinary hotel comprises five towers brimming with venues, from retail to restaurants to conference facilities. Views of the Arabian Gulf, swimming pools and stellar service seal the deal.

Highlights: Choose from 12 dining and snack venues, including many by notable chefs. Bice, Toro Toro, Li Beirut and Tori No Su are just some suggestions. Don’t miss tea at Observation Deck At 300, the city’s highest vantage spot.

NEW OUTLOOK:

Jumeirah Vittaveli (top), Grosvenor House Suites by Jumeirah Living (middle), and Jumeirah at Etihad Towers (bottom) PHOTOS: © JUMEIRAH

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feature | airline update

Global Appeal Turkish Airlines forges ahead with improvements and renewed customer confidence. BY ELLEN CLARK IN THE CLOUDS:

Turkish Airlines aircraft PHOTO: © TURKISH AIRLINES

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TALK ABOUT LONGEVITY! For an astounding 85 years, Turkish Airlines, in one incarnation or another, has had passenger airliners in the sky. Established May 20, 1933, as State Airlines Administration, the fleet consisted of five small propeller airplanes with room for not more than seven passengers. One of these planes was a Curtiss Kingbird, with a maximum speed of 143 mph and

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a range of 415 miles. Both its engines generated around 300 horsepower, as compared with a single engine of a Boeing 777, which generates 110,000 horsepower.

In 1938 the airline changed its name to State Airlines General Directorate, remaining so until 1955, when it took on its present name of Turkish Airlines. Over the years, the original five aircraft grew to a fleet of more than 300 passenger and cargo aircraft flying to more than 300 destinations worldwide. In 2017 more than 68 million passengers traveled on Turkish Airlines.

Turkish Airlines continued to grow and flourish until 2016 when a failed military coup, a resultant purge of deserters and a wave of attacks by Islamic State terrorists made travelers jittery about flying on Turkish Airlines through İstanbul.

When bombers struck İstanbul’s Ataturk Airport in June 2016, the situation went from bad to worse. Thousands of potential Turkish Airlines passengers chose other carriers, and the airline showed its first annual loss in recent memory.

Despite these considerable setbacks, Turkish Airlines plowed ahead in its effort not only to repair the airline’s reputation and productivity but also to make it better. The first half of 2017 didn’t show any improvement, but during the

second half of that year confidence grew that the Islamic State was in terminal decline, and the endof-year figures were close to breakeven. Since then, figures continue to slowly improve as the airline forges ahead with new plans.

M. İlker Aycı, chairman of the board and the executive committee, Turkish Airlines, says the airline’s balanced growth trend continued in 2018, with a new hub airport, additional aircraft and a booming cargo business all pointing to a bright future. He further explains, “We are targeting to reach 74 million passengers this year, increase our capacity 5–6 percent to reach 183 billion Available Seat Kilometers, and our load factor is expected to be close to 80 percent. Our cargo target is 1.3 million tonnes. So we are already experiencing the excitement of taking a major step forward in 2018.”

To further boost sales numbers to their pre-2016 levels, Turkish Airlines changed advertising agencies and launched a new celebrity ad campaign. The first commercial featured actor Morgan Freeman

and debuted during the 2017 Super Bowl. It cleverly emphasized that Turkish Airlines serves more countries than any other airline. And in response to those travelers still nervous about visiting Turkey, the ad made a case for using İstanbul merely as a connecting point. During the 2018 Super Bowl more than 100 million viewers watched as Turkish Airlines’ second celebrity commercial — this one featuring TV star and Turkish-American cardiothoracic surgeon Dr. Mehmet Oz — made its debut. Once again, Turkish stressed its international route map, though more indirectly this time. To quote Ahmet Olmuştur, chief marketing officer, Turkish Airlines, “As the airline that flies to more countries than any other, we strongly believe that our mission is so much more than bringing our passengers to their destination. We actively encourage them to discover the world and, through it, discover themselves.”

In August 2017 Turkish Airlines launched its new Stopover Project. Economy-class passengers traveling on Turkish Airlines with a stopover of 20 hours or

PERSONAL SERVICE:

Turkish Airlines business-class travelers and chef PHOTO: © TURKISH AIRLINES

17 a l 20 es i r p In A h Airlin is n Turk ger cabi into n d e pass ly turne . n e rd sudd rnity wa vte eli a ma rprise d u at s The lace p k oo nd ery t 0 feet, a 0 d 42,0 other an m ed both er arriv ion t h at daug r destin ei at th nd well. a alive OCTOBER 2018

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AT YOUR LEISURE:

İstanbul lounge PHOTO: © TURKISH AIRLINES

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longer in İstanbul are eligible to receive one-night complimentary accommodation at a 4-star hotel, including breakfast. Business-class passengers are eligible for two nights at a 5-star hotel with breakfast.

So far, more than 14,000 passengers have taken this opportunity to experience İstanbul on their way to or from their final destination.

In June this year, Turkish Airlines introduced its domesticproduction Wireless In-Flight Entertainment System, making it the first airline to use this system, entirely developed by Turkish engineers in cooperation with Turkish Technic Inc. and Havelsan.

Passengers will be able to connect to this system, initially applied on Turkish Airlines’ 44 narrow-body aircraft, via their personal electronic devices, thus eliminating seatback screens. Passengers must install the app, named Wi-Fi Entertainment, on their smartphones before the flight. In addition to the mobile devices, passengers will also be able to use the wireless system on their laptops by using Google’s Chrome browser. The system will allow passengers to access more than 250 films; 700 TV shows; 2,000 music albums; 19,000 songs; and other media content.

In July Turkish Airlines signed an agreement with American

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Express Global Business Travel, one of the world’s leading agencies for corporate travel. This meant expanding its existing regional collaboration to a global partnership and providing Turkish Airlines with top-level status by Amex GBT. In the awards department, this year Turkish Airlines was voted one of the world’s best airlines in three categories, according to TripAdvisor travelers: The Major Airline in Europe, Best Economy Class in Europe and Best Business Class in Europe. Bryan Saltzburg, senior vice president and general manager, TripAdvisor Flights, says, “As the airline industry introduces new fare products and a widening array of in-flight offerings, consumers continue to seek out the carriers that deliver value and a quality experience.

The Travelers’ Choice awards for airlines recognize the carriers that exceed passenger expectations and receive top marks from travelers.”

What’s in the works for Turkish Airlines in the next couple of years? For starters, there’s the opening of the Istanbul New Airport this month, with the hope this will increase service quality and growth while working toward long-term goals. Bilal Ekşi, general

E XCLU S I V E D R I V E S T I L L A B OV E T H E C L O U D S Exclusive drive service makes your travel experience all the more comfortable.

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manager, Turkish Airlines, says flights will be closed in both airports for an 18-hour period as the airline moves 120 empty aircraft to the new airport. “We will start our operations in the new airport with 10 percent capacity in the first two hours and end the day with 50 percent. On the second day, we plan to reach 75 percent and then full capacity on the third day,” he says.

Other plans for the future include the purchase of new aircraft, including at least 25 Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner aircraft, the fastest-selling twin-aisle airplane in Boeing history, and at least 25 Airbus 350-900 aircraft. This will allow Turkish Airlines to focus on markets it couldn’t enter previously. And besides continuing to add destinations to its growing list, it will increase frequencies and improve connection quality.

Long-term, Turkish Airlines strives to serve 120 million passengers a year with a fleet of 500-plus aircraft by 2023. A lofty goal, but considering Turkish Airlines’ impressive history, totally attainable.

IN-FLIGHT:

Economy class and entertainment system

PHOTOS: © TURKISH AIRLINES

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TURKISH AIRLINES turkishairlines.com

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PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or fax to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/leisureballot Name Street Address City

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mice | LAS VEGAS

On a Roll Las Vegas venues up the ante to attract conventions and meetings. BY HOLLY RIDDLE OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, Las Vegas experienced new growth and landmark changes with the opening of the eyecatching T-Mobile Arena, LINQ Promenade and MGM’s The Park. Now, major construction in the city comes largely to a close, with Las Vegas Stadium one of the few remaining projects, slated to open for the Oakland Raiders in 2020. As it all wraps up, MICE planners stand to benefit in a big way, with new venues and experiences at the ready, rolling out their finest and aiming to please.

However, it’s hardly enough merely to provide a welldesigned conference space or ballroom. Business travelers and travelers in general crave something more memorable, and as MICE planners look to deliver for their companies and clients, venues stay one step ahead. Their efforts make Las Vegas the new place to go for a conference or event as exciting as the Strip itself.

Following MGM’s opening of The Park, the parent company upgraded Monte Carlo to a new experience, Park MGM, this May. While the hotel itself, inspired by green spaces around the world, is beautifully design-driven, the meeting and event spaces leave no detail overlooked when catering to the modern business traveler.

Across newly redesigned conference spaces and boardrooms, attendees benefit from the innovative Stay Well Meetings initiative, developed in partnership with wellness guru Deepak Chopra and the Cleveland Clinic. Stay Well Meetings incorporates specialized air filtration and purification for increased mental agility and access to nutritious food choices. Other touches — such as the abundance of natural sunlight, the serene light green motif and aroma of essential oils — ensure Park MGM is not only a place attendees are required to be but also a place they enjoy.

For nighttime events, the property also offers private spaces within its sophisticated new dining and drink venues, Bavette’s Steakhouse & Bar, an outpost of the Chicago speakeasy-style eatery, and Juniper Cocktail Lounge, a whimsical and intimate bar. Future additions to Park MGM create an even more desirable location, as it wraps up changes later this year with the addition of an Eataly marketplace and NoMad Las Vegas, a boutique hotel within the hotel.

Next door, ARIA completed its 200,000-square-foot convention center expansion earlier in the year. The three levels of freshly stylish meeting rooms and ballrooms include sweeping views of T-Mobile Arena and The Park, with additional outdoor space to complement any event. The same good taste that curated the property’s expansive fine-art collection is seen throughout, from the lighting choices to the architecture. Further setting it apart from others in Las Vegas, the entire property boasts LEED Gold certification.

The Strip, though, is no longer the only place to look for excitement. Enclave, a meeting and event space in downtown Las Vegas,

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BIGGER AND BETTER:

ARIA Convention Center reception (above) and lobby (left) PHOTOS: © ARIA CONVENTION CENTER

MEET AND GREET:

Park MGM Lobby (top), Griffith Classroom (middle) and EMC Pantry (bottom) PHOTOS: © PARK MGM

proves this. Opened in January 2017 as a brand-new build off the Strip and about one mile from the airport, Enclave was conceived by 3G Productions, an event production company responsible for extraordinary concerts, festivals and other events around the world.

The 75,000-square-foot modern, sleek space harnesses 3G’s technical expertise to provide stellar A/V and production support. Additionally, the venue gives guests an element of privacy you won’t find at any resort. Combined, the two facets make the space highly desirable to tech and government groups that require autonomy. The little perks round off the venue’s appeal, such as 40 tons of rigging capacity in the Signature Room, a rooftop space with Strip views and free parking for more than 350.

Nearer the Strip but providing a sophisticated retreat away from the cacophony, Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas offers an intimate boutique feel with all the luxury of the Four Seasons brand and an opportune location adjacent the Mandalay Bay Resort.

The private arrival experience gets guests’ stay off on the right foot, just 15 minutes from the airport. When a booking group stays, MICE planners know to expect stylish accommodations and high-end amenities such as the newly renovated Forbes 5-star spa, but guests also enjoy access to all Mandalay Bay Resort pools, dining and shopping via a quiet walkway that connects the two for separation without loss of convenience. The peaceful and private event spaces total 38,200 square feet, ranging from a lovely outdoor fountain terrace to six meeting rooms, ballrooms and two hospitality suites with breathtaking views of Las Vegas, the desert and mountains.

Beyond MICE venues, activity and tour providers step up to the plate as well, serving unforgettable experiences to corporate groups whether they’re networking, entertaining potential clients or just celebrating an internal occasion. One up-and-comer on the scene is the highly lauded Lip Smacking Foodie Tours, far from your average tourist-trap culinary experience. Instead, a small team of in-the-know culinary experts whisk corporate groups away on an evening of VIP dining experiences, visiting five restaurants in one night for pre-set, high-end dinner menus accompanied by signature cocktails. With capacity for up to 140 participants during one tour, the vendor provides a high level of customization for an experi-

UNIQUE VENUES

The Keep Memory Alive Event Center, designed by legendary architect Frank Gehry, is as striking for its purpose as it is its architecture. Situated within the Cleveland Clinic Lou Ruvo Center for Brain Health, dedicated to combating brain disorders including Alzheimer’s, Huntington’s, Parkinson’s disease and others, each event’s proceeds benefit the clinic’s work. Located off the Strip, the center provides several event spaces to choose from, but none are as breathtaking as the main event center interior with its 75-foot ceiling; 199 windows; 18,000 stainless-steel shingles; Wolfgang Puck-designed kitchen; and expertly engineered acoustics. kmaeventcenterlasvegas.com

ence tailored to the client’s style and branding. Offering experiences in an entirely separate league from the general corporate dinners that take place during conferences and other events, president Donald Contursi claims the group can “make any planner look like a rockstar.”

Located on the LINQ Promenade with terrace views of the High Roller, Brooklyn Bowl Las Vegas is the go-to for an event not only unique but altogether edgier and cooler than what you’d find in your average ballroom. The two-story concert venue/ bowling alley/bar hybrid, outside of clubs and ballrooms, owns the biggest footprint in Las Vegas, with 82,000 square feet and capacity to host up to five events at one time. With the staff ready to take on nearly any challenge, they’ve hosted everything from marketing events to Super Bowl parties, tastings to corporate events, and nearly anything in the space can be branded to fit your needs, from the menu to the bowling balls. brooklynbowl.com/las-vegas

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TAHITI | FRENCH POLYNESIA | FIJI | SOUTH PACIFIC

Built to navigate the lagoons of the South Pacific, the m/s Paul Gauguin offers the only moving, luxury, all-inclusive, overwater experience in French Polynesia.

Included Airfare from Los Angeles

For more information contact your Travel Professional, call 877-440-6114, or visit pgcruises.com/Lifestyle

BUSINESS destinations nd ict Isla s istr a d Y t e n Th ns nme rtai ttractio the e t n e a ld, ures Wor rack i r feat a r acet Fer ne r like O d mula y opene . l For w ark a ne os. P r and B ner War

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HONG KONG

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BEVERLY HILLS

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ABU DHABI

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STAVANGER

PHOTOS: © SOPHIEJAMES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DAVIDHOFFMANNPHOTOGRAPHY | DREAMSTIME.COM

LEISURE destinations

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RIYADH

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PHNOM PENH

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RUSSIA

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destination one | HONG KONG

Creative Powerhouse Hong Kong energizes its economy with technology startups. BY SUSAN B. BARNES ON THE WATERFRONT: Hong Kong skyline panorama from across Victoria Harbour PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM

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OVERLOOKING STUNNING VICTORIA Harbour, Hong Kong is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city in which soaring skyscrapers, world-class infrastructure and international businesses co-exist in harmony with rich cultural traditions, serene green spaces and its 7.39 million residents, who enjoy the best of East and West.

Hong Kong continues to rediscover and define itself. Though the region’s history dates back more than a thousand years, its

OCTOBER 2018

more recent history is certainly relative to the city as we know it today, and likely how it will continue to grow and move forward.

In 1842, China’s Qing Dynasty was defeated in the First Opium War and ceded Hong Kong Island to Great Britain. Hong Kong remained a British colony for more than 150 years, serving as a center of international trade and growing as a major manufacturing hub beginning in the early 20th century.

On July 1, 1997, Hong Kong “returned

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens must possess a U.S. passport valid for at least one month beyond the date of intended stay; a tourist visa is not required for stays of less than 90 days. Visas are required if you plan to work or study in Hong Kong and must be obtained before departing the United States.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Chinese and English

to the Motherland” and became a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China under the principle of One Country, Two Systems. Under this principle, Hong Kong enjoys a high degree of autonomy, including an independent judiciary and rule of law, freedom of speech, a capitalist economy and free trade.

That autonomous capitalist system and free trade remains vital to Hong Kong’s growing economy, evident in the accolades the city enjoys, including being named the world’s freest economy for the past 24 years by the U.S.-based Heritage Foundation; ranked second globally in the World Competitiveness Yearbook 2018 published by the Switzerland-based International Institute for Management Development; ranked the fifth-easiest place in the world to do business, according to the World Bank’s Doing Business 2018 report; and ranked sixth globally of 153 places, and the first among Asian economies, in Forbes’ Best Countries for Business 2018 survey.

In addition, 70 of the world’s top banks operate in Hong Kong. The Stock Exchange of Hong Kong ranked first globally for five of the past nine years (since 2009) in terms of initial public offering funds raised, with around $16.5 billion raised through IPOs in 2017, ranked fourth in the world and second in

LODGING

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, HONG KONG The luxury hotel brand’s flagship opened its doors in 1963, and its exquisite service and accommodations quickly became legendary. The hotel also houses three Michelin-starred restaurants.

The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central District $$$$$ THE POTTINGER HONG KONG The 68-room boutique hotel sits on one of the oldest stone slab streets in the historic heart of

the city, where East meets West and modernity meets heritage.

74 Queen’s Road, Central District $$$$ THE UPPER HOUSE Designer Andre Fu redefines the concept of modern luxury by creating “a haven of calm and quiet taste.” Make yourself at home in one of the hotel’s 117 spacious studios and suites.

88 Pacific Place, Queensway, Central District $$$$$

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TRADITIONAL FARE:

Hong Kong Heritage Museum (top), and Lin Heung Tea House PHOTOS: © TEA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © STRIPPEDPIXEL | DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

HO LEE FOOK Adventurous diners flock to this spot, “good fortune for your mouth,” inspired by old-school Hong Kong and late-night Chinatown hangouts in 1960s New York. Arrive hungry and with an open mind.

Ground floor, 1-5 Elgin St., SoHo $$–$$$ LIN HEUNG TEA HOUSE Sip a cup of tea and nibble traditional dim sum recipes served from bamboo baskets on trolley carts in one of Hong Kong’s oldest tea houses, established in 1926.

162 Wellington St., Sheung Wan $$–$$$

Asia. Hong Kong is also a regional corporate and startup hub, home to more than 8,200 overseas and mainland companies, including more than 3,700 regional headquarters and offices.

While Hong Kong’s key industries are identified as financial services (banking, insurance, stock brokerage), trading and logistics, tourism and professional and producer services, the city is looking ahead to make sure it remains a viable center of business. In pursuit of that goal, the city is making a name for itself as an innovative technology startup hub, as well as looking at biotech as one area to develop.

The arts and culture are an important part of Hong Kong, too. Speaking to that, it has allocated more budget to creative industries as well, as seen with the development of the West Kowloon Culture District. Nearly 100 acres of reclaimed land along Victoria Harbour have been designated for an arts and culture infrastructure, including museums; an opera center and other performance arts venues; ArtPark, a flowing green space in the heart of the district; and a promenade.

As a city, Hong Kong takes pride in its past yet does not rest on its laurels. Rather, it looks toward its future and invites you to envision your future here, too.

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YAN TOH HEEN Executive Chef Lau Yiu Fai’s refined Chinese cooking techniques create seasonal Cantonese specialties that garner two Michelin stars in what is considered one of the world’s finest Chinese restaurants.

InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon $$$$–$$$$$

INFO TO GO

Direct flights from the United States to Hong Kong are available on American Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Delta Air Lines, Hong Kong Airlines, Singapore Airlines and United Airlines. Upon arrival at Hong Kong International Airport, travel into the city easily via metered taxis and personal cars. Or take the highspeed Mass Transit Railway Airport Express train and reach Hong Kong Island in just 24 minutes and return to the airport in the same amount of time. Once in the city, MTR’s 11 rail lines cover all major districts and beyond.

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +8 Phone code: Country code: 852 Currency: Hong Kong dollar Key industries: Financial services (banking, insurance, stock brokerage), trading and logistics, tourism and professional and producer services are the traditional Four Key Industries in Hong Kong.

CHECKING IN WITH BRIAN YEN

Executive Director, MIT Hong Kong Innovation Node What about Hong Kong attracted MIT to launch its MIT Entrepreneurship and Maker Skills Integrator program in the city?

The Node was created to build long-term value by enriching the educational experiences of MIT and Hong Kong students in key areas of innovation practice including entrepreneurship, making and rapid scale-up of prototypes. For our student programs, MEMSI and MEFTI (MIT Entrepreneurship and FinTech Integrator, new this summer), we chose Hong Kong for several reasons. Hong Kong’s proximity to Shenzhen is a natural choice for a hardware-related program, and its world-leading financial center also makes it a natural choice for the FinTech-related program. The city’s East-meets-West culture makes it a softer landing for MIT students coming in for our intense bootcamp, and Hong Kong has a high density of world-class universities for the Node to work with.

What type of tech is coming out of the startup bootcamp? What are the results so far?

The MEMSI startup bootcamp focused on small electronic hardware devices. But the bootcamp’s focus is educational, so we don’t expect the outcome of the bootcamp to directly turn into product or companies. Many of our students do go on to start their own companies or join other early-stage startups. Occasionally, when timing is right, students may continue their ideas from MEMSI into real startups; for instance, we have a startup working on a smart contraception pill case that originated from a team from our January 2017 cohort.

TIME PAST:

The Hong Kong Clock Tower is a remnant of the original Kowloon Station on the Kowloon-Canton Railway.

PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM

What do you think is the future of tech and startups in Hong Kong?

The Hong Kong government allocates enormous resources in nurturing tech startups; it is starting to show some green sprouts. With a concentration of a world-class university providing the necessary tech workforce, Hong Kong is on a positive trajectory to become a tech powerhouse.

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DIVERSIONS

When it comes to taking time off to enjoy the city, there is no shortage of options in Hong Kong. Start with a visit to Victoria Harbour, where you can walk along the promenade for spectacular views of the city skyline. For a different perspective, go high into the air on the Hong Kong Observation Wheel; take a ride on the Peak Tram, running since 1888, to the highest point on Hong Kong Island; or visit sky100 Hong Kong Observation Deck, the city’s highest observation deck 100 floors up, with 360-degree views.

Back on the ground, discover Hong Kong’s diverse neighborhoods, each essentially a city within a city and each with its own culture and personality … not to mention history. East meets West in Wan Chai, while the temples and towers of quintessential Hong Kong are found in Wong Tai Sin. Night markets thrive in Yau Tsim Mong, and arts, food and culture collide in Old Town Central, two of the oldest parts of the city.

Find quiet amid the pulsing energy in one of the city’s parks, including its oldest right in the middle of it all — Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens.

Join a free, guided bird-watching walk every Wednesday morning in Hong Kong Park, or enjoy a sense of calm while watching a tai chi session in Victoria Park or at the two-level lotus pond in the Chinese Garden within Kowloon Park.

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And then, of course, there are the myriad ornate temples in which Buddhist and Taoist faithful practice ancient rituals of worship. Many of these temples also lie at the center of the city’s colorful festivals held throughout the year.

With all there is to see and do in Hong Kong, chances are you will want to add a few days to your trip to sample all you can.

CITY SIGHTS: Hong Kong Observation Wheel (top), Hong Kong Park (middle), and Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens (bottom) PHOTOS: © ESTHERPOON | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SERGIO DELLE VEDOVE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © BLISSSS | DREAMSTIME.COM

Business Class Full Service Luxury

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Where Hong Kong Begins

stateside | BEVERLY HILLS

Take Two Beverly Hills updates its image with plans for a progressive future. BY ELYSE GLICKMAN LEGENDARY:

(Left to right) Driving from Beverly Hills to Malibu via Sunset Boulevard, The Rooftop by JG at the Waldorf Astoria, Heritage Wine Room, Crustacean and Greystone Mansion scenic drive PHOTOS: © BEVERLY HILLS CVB

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WHETHER OR NOT YOU FIND THE noun “icon” overused, you cannot deny Beverly Hills is full of them. Since the city’s incorporation in 1914, these symbols embody the apex of the American Dream. The signs are everywhere — literally — from the shield-shaped city limits markers to its zip code and the oft-filmed and -photographed Beverly Hills Hotel.

Like some of the celebrities who call it home (or, at least, their second home), Beverly Hills works diligently to keep up with the times, especially with numerous nips and tucks leading to its 100th anniversary. However, recent happenings provide plenty of proof it has more going for it than its looks and status.

“Our city founders would have had a hard time visualizing contemporary Beverly Hills,” affirms Mayor Julian Gold. “Even Fred

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Hayman, who originated the Beverly Hills ‘experience’ as one of the founders of the modern Rodeo Drive, could not have envisioned how successful Beverly Hills would become. In fact, all of the founders could never have dreamed they would be laying the foundation for ‘No. 1 Luxury City’ in the world. I think that once they got over their surprise at the tremendous growth of the region and changes in technology and fashion, they would be very pleased.”

According to Gold, Beverly Hills is still a work in progress. Construction continues on two L.A. Metro Purple Line subway stops. A recently completed rebuild of major thoroughfare Santa Monica Boulevard already improved traffic flow. An emphasis on security and safety resulted in the installation of hundreds of new security cameras, and the recent launch of a Complete Streets planning process allows the city’s thoroughfares to better accommodate autos, bicycles and pedestrians. A “fiber to the premises” program promises to bring affordable and reliable municipal high-speed internet via fiber optic cable to everyone in Beverly Hills.

Although Beverly Hills still reigns as a Hollywood hub, the definition of what makes it so is expanding, with a diverse entertainment industry, technology, and lifestyle consumer products and service companies — some, household names across the United States. These include Live Nation Entertainment, RealD, Hillstone Restaurant Group (Houston’s Restaurant), Gauge Precision Instruments, PodcastOne, Sprinkles Cupcakes and John Paul Mitchell Systems.

Blair Schlecter, director, Economic Development and Government Affairs, Beverly Hills Chamber of Commerce, affirms the commerce defining the city is still in expansion mode. “[We] look forward to welcoming more innovative firms,” says Schlecter. “For example, we will be welcoming Spring Place later in 2018. The coworking space will feature private dining rooms and a rooftop bar for up-and-coming executives and entrepreneurs.”

SCENIC DRIVES

Beverly Hills further bolsters its updated image for visitors using impressive technical wizardry via its first 360-degree experience. Investors and business travelers can go behind the scenes at some of its hotels and businesses before heading into town, according to Julie Wagner, CEO, Beverly Hills Conference & Visitors Bureau.

“Video technology like this keeps our brand relevant,” says Wagner, who notes the video stars local influentials Caley Alyssa, Alo Yoga brand ambassador; Nicolas Bijan, vice president, House of Bijan; and Stephanie Boswell, executive pastry chef, The Peninsula Beverly Hills. “We are also encouraging social media influencers to experience offerings throughout the city and documenting their visit in their own point of view to appeal [to] a millennial audience who will be tomorrow’s investors and business travelers.”

Wagner cites Beverly Hills’s last economic impact study (2016), showing 7.4 million visitors provided more than $2.8 billion worth of economic impact. And that momentum has not stopped. Its newest luxury property, the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, is the 17th hotel and fifth 5-star hotel to open its doors in the last five years, resulting in Beverly Hills having more 5-star hotels per square mile than any other city in the world.

“At these hotels, guests receive first-class service and amenities, enabling them to rest and recharge in style for the next day’s meeting or event,” Wagner continues. “The city’s

business district, known as the Golden Triangle, meanwhile, features over 300 restaurants with distinctive culinary offerings, which is also a big draw for the next generation of meeting planners and event attendees.”

The Rooftop by JG and Jean-Georges at the Waldorf Astoria showcase Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s convergence of French and California-American cuisine. Montage Beverly Hills, another 5-star property, houses Georgie and The Garden Bar, specializing in modern American cuisine and boasting a prime view over Beverly Canon Gardens, one of the most popular outdoor event spaces in town. It also happens to be a stone’s throw from Chef Thomas Keller’s Bouchon.

Local institution Crustacean reinvented its interior design and Vietnamese-rooted pan-Asian menu this past spring.

New York transplant AVRA Beverly Hills, meanwhile, brought to town its high-end Greek fare and market display, where diners can select their seafood of choice. Numerous casual-yet-elegant wine bars, such as Heritage Fine Wines and Wally’s Wine & Spirits, are suited for pleasant lateafternoon gatherings. On the West Hollywood/Beverly Hills border, young movers and shakers mingle at Boxwood at the London Hotel.

While Beverly Hills’s 100-year-plus history made its zip code world-famous, its vision for the next century promises to add even more zip to its potential as a destination.

Everybody knows and loves the hallowed fashion show runway that is Rodeo Drive. However, scenic drives drape and wrap around Beverly Hills like opera-length necklaces from Harry Winston and Tiffany & Co. The easiest place to start an exploration of the area’s full-on majesty beyond the Beverly Hills Central Business District is the stretch of Sunset Boulevard that starts at the West Hollywood/ Beverly Hills border. It ambles leisurely west into Bel Air, Brentwood, Pacific Palisades and Malibu before ending at the Pacific Ocean.

Drive north on Coldwater Canyon Drive past Sunset, and you will eventually wind up at the western access to Coldwater Canyon Park, located near the “top of the hill” at Mulholland Drive. A favorite of local families, the green expanse includes free parking, the TreePeople nature center and a 3.1-mile hiking trail with cinematic views of the city and the San Fernando Valley.

Trousdale Estates, on the eastern edge of Beverly Hills, rolls out an interesting history of 20th-century residential architecture.

However, the grande dame is the landmark Greystone Mansion, a Tudor Revival mansion on lushly landscaped grounds anchoring the neighborhood. A choice site for charity galas and A-list parties yearround, it is open to the public for tours on most other days.

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9–5 | ABU DHABI

Capital of Commerce Modern amenities make it easy to take care of business in Abu Dhabi. BY SHARON KING HOGE LIVING ROOM:

Al Meylas lobby lounge at the Four Seasons PHOTO: © FOUR SEASONS

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LIKE THE NAME “NEW YORK,” the moniker “Abu Dhabi” applies to both a geographical region and the principal city within it. And like NYC, the city of Abu Dhabi, capital of the United Arab Emirates, sprawls across the mainland and interconnected islands. During the last half-century, like its glitzier neighboring emirate, Dubai, Abu Dhabi exploded from a sandy village into a gleaming modern metropolis of towering high-rises, mammoth luxury shopping centers and prestigious museums, offering a range of venues for hotel stays and entertaining.

The original commercial center developed on the namesake core island in a district just below its waterfront Corniche, crowned at one end by the Sheikh’s Presidential Palace and the nearby Emirates Palace Hotel. Locals maintain the Emirates Palace, its Moorish-style architecture decorated with flourishes of white marble and gold, is still the desirable location to propose holding a meeting with the Crown Prince. But the business center has moved.

About 10 years ago, Sowwah Island was designated the country’s new financial epicenter. Today renamed Al Maryah, it boasts the stock exchange; the free-zone Abu Dhabi Global Market; the headquarters of dozens of inter-

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national banks and blue chip companies; the Cleveland Clinic, touted as the Middle East’s finest hospital; and a range of upscale support facilities, including the glitzy Galleria luxury mall.

“When you come to do business, you go straight to Al Maryah and check into the Four Seasons or Rosewood Hotel,” claims a lawyer who frequently flies in from the United States for meetings. With its vertical exterior inspired by traditional textiles, the Four Seasons offers a meeting place for fellow travelers and stylish locals. Outfitted with sofas and armchairs, its Al Meylas lounge emerged as the emirate’s “living room” for meetings, tea and socializing. Five function rooms, four with floor-to-ceiling windows, come equipped with up-to-date technology.

In the nearby Rosewood, guests gather in the airy Majlis Lobby Lounge for an early breakfast or quick business lunch. Its newest restaurant, Dai Pai Dong, decorated with Chinese art and artifacts and a live-show kitchen, offers an all-you-can-eat dim sum lunch.

For dining out, visitors declare the emirate has “every restaurant known to man.” Notable on Al Maryah are the signature Italian venue Roberto and La Petite Maison featuring cuisine Niçoise. Sushi, maki rolls and seaweed salad are served Izakaya-style for table

sharing at Zuma, and the porterhouse and onion flower at Nusr Et Steakhouse earn acclaim.

Business visitors should be aware Abu Dhabi residents on their home turf are apt to reverse invitations and invite guests to meet at their homes. Accept graciously if invited; flowers or chocolates are appropriate to bring along as a gift.

While the total emirate encompasses 375 square miles, the metropolitan area is fairly compact, and some visitors prefer the comparatively old-world flavor around Qaryat al Beri. It lies midway between the airport and downtown near the Souk, the vast Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre and the gleaming Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. In the lush, winding waterways of the ShangriLa Hotel, Qaryat al Beri complex, boats float guests past shores lined with arabesque arches to their rooms, spa facilities and the traditional Arabian market.

A golf course lies nearby, and the hotel’s five meeting and function rooms feature state-of-the-art audiovisual equipment.

Middle Eastern cuisine served all day in its restaurant Sofra bld is prepared at multiple live cooking stations to allow interaction with the chefs.

Adjacent to the Abu Dhabi National Exhibitions Centre, the Hyatt Capital Gate hotel provides direct access to the Middle East’s largest convention facilities. A convenient retreat from the 12 overwhelming exhibition halls, the hotel’s comfortable library/lounge overlooks the city skyline. Named for the 18-degree incline of its dramatically sloped exterior, the Hyatt’s 18 Degrees has been voted the emirate’s best Mediterranean restaurant.

To get away from it all, the chic, modern Museum Café in the newly opened branch of The Louvre on cultural Saadiyat Island serves international dishes from sea bass to camel burgers.

Luncheon cruises on a picturesque double-decker wooden dhow depart from the Marina Mall and serve a 5-star international buffet catered by the Hilton Abu Dhabi. Tee times can be booked at four nearby golf courses.

Metered cabs serve Abu Dhabi International Airport, about 20 miles from downtown, and charge around $25–30 to Al Maryah. Arriving passengers can pre-book Golden Class hospitality services which greet arrivals, assist with baggage collection and escort clients to ground transportation. Remote check-in is available at the downtown City Terminal, or departures can be aided with fast-track check-in, immigration, passport control and guidance escort to gates at the airport. VIP gold lounges can be booked for layovers and delayed flights.

WINDOWS TO THE WORLD:

Rosewood Abu Dhabi Majlis Lobby Lounge (above), and Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque (left) PHOTOS: © ROSEWOOD ABU DHABI, © ATOSAN | DREAMSTIME.COM

d ene in Op 017 t ya i 2 d a in Sa e l h t ura , t l cu rict s t bi’ dis Dha u Ab ch of re an br Louv s e Th case w sho from he art nd t u aro d. rl wo

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after 5 | STAVANGER

Nordic Nights Sample Stavanger’s fine dining and stunning scenery.

BY RON BERNTHAL

ENCHANTED EVENINGS:

Stavanger Konserthus (left), and Tango Bar & Kjøkken restaurant (above) PHOTOS: © PAL CHRISTENSEN STAVANGER AFTENBLAD, © HELLE NAURATIL

ld r’s O e g n va Sta s an ffer o and n Tow rket a m s -air boat open g n i h ng ll fis selli sma r o b r p, e ha shrim t in th h g au hly c s. fres ster b o l and crab FOR MORE THAN 40 YEARS the Stavanger region led Norway’s development as an energy nation. The city hosts about 35 oil and gas companies as well as 400-plus oilfield service and technology firms. Norway’s largest oil company, Equinor, has its headquarters in Stavanger, and many international energy companies maintain regional headquarters here.

This city of 121,000 on Norway’s southwest coast enjoys a reputation as a business-friendly destination, offering excellent hotels, restaurants and meeting venues — not to mention breathtaking fjords and mountains just outside the city.

Invite local business contacts for pre-dinner drinks at the city’s most exclusive wine bar and restaurant, Gaffel & Karaffel, where Champagne, fine wine and tapas contribute to the friendly atmosphere. For a small group, reserve the wine cellar or a private meeting room in this Old Stavanger venue near the port. Or head to the nearby new wine bar Vinkontoret, offering an open hearth fire and a good selection of international wines along with tasty cheeses, sausages and thin-sliced ham.

For dinner, many restaurants offer fresh fish or meat, often including moose, reindeer, mountain hare, duck, rock ptarmigan and fowl, depending on the season. RE-NAA, one of the two Michelin-starred restaurants in Stavanger (the other is the Japanese restaurant Sabi

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Omakase), provides outstanding service and New Nordic cuisine in a timber house in Old Stavanger. The legendary 20-course tasting menu with wine pairing includes fresh seafood dishes. With just seven tables and an open kitchen led by noted chef/owner Sven Erik Renaa, RE-NAA offers a memorable experience.

At Tango Bar & Kjøkken, the tasting menu is as popular with locals as visitors. The excellent six-course menu may include slow-cooked and caramelized celeriac with truffle mayo; squid and cucumber “pasta”; and its classic dish of duck breast, beets and kale. Tasting menus at Stavanger’s finer restaurants are pricey but well worth the expense, with attentive servers and chefs happy to explain the local ingredients in their healthy and inventive Nordic cuisine.

Norway was among the first countries to give equal rights to everyone, and most Stavanger residents have a liberal attitude toward the LBGTQ+ community. The nightclub HoT Open Mind offers live DJ shows, themed party nights and dancing every weekend.

If you have time for an evening of classical or pop music at the Stavanger Konserthus, also book a table at the Spiseriet restaurant in the concert hall lounge, boasting stunning views of the fjord. Dinners begin at 5 p.m., enough time for a great meal before the show. Later, walk to the newly renovated Radisson Blu Atlantic for a nightcap at the Firelake Grill House cocktail bar, ending a perfect evening in Stavanger.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

All in THE PLAZA SEOUL The luxury hotel offers the perfect base for discovering Seoul’s past, present and future.

THE PLAZA SEOUL IS KOREA’S first hotel to partner with Marriott International’s luxury lifestyle brand, Autograph Collection. The result is a luxury hotel in the heart of Seoul with the benefits of being associated with an international chain, as well as maintaining a local identity.

THE PLAZA SEOUL, DESIGNED by Italian architect Guido Ciompi, offers captivating views across Seoul.

All the hotel’s guestrooms feature smartphone service offering complimentary local and international calls, Internet access, speed dial to Hotel Services and access to THE PLAZA SHOP, a platform offering professionally curated items to be ordered and delivered to each guestroom.

INDEPENDENT BUSINESS AND LEISURE travelers are eager to discover the local culture, shopping, accommodations and amenities of the destination they’re visiting, and leading Korean luxury boutique hotel THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection launches the Delight Seoul offer, aimed at providing travelers unique experiences in a destination rich in culture and history.

THE OFFER INCLUDES a Discover Seoul Pass, which offers guests access to 21 top attractions in and around Seoul, accommodations at THE PLAZA Seoul, breakfast at the hotel’s The Seven Square, multilingual brochures and services from THE PLAZA Concierge Team. The special is available for two or more nights.

“FOREIGN VISITORS HAVE recently been showing strong interest in Seoul and its culture,” according to a hotel official. “We therefore looked for a special and unique service that could offer diverse experiences of both the hotel and the Korean capital outside. We are committed to providing more experiences beyond expectation for tourists visiting Seoul with various services exclusive to THE PLAZA Seoul, Korea’s leading five-star hotel.”

THE PLAZA SEOUL OFFERS 410 rooms for guests to recharge and rejuvenate in style, six unique restaurants for fine dining from around the globe, nine halls for business and other occasions and several other facilities, including a fitness center and spa. Personalized service now extends well past room service, thanks to the “Stay in Style” brand identity. Any service managed by the concierge team can be personalized for the perfect stay.

NO MATTER YOUR PURPOSE in visiting the capital of South Korea, THE PLAZA Seoul will design the perfect stay for you.

For reservations and inquiries, call THE PLAZA Seoul at 82 2 310 7100 or visit the website at hoteltheplaza.com.

Instagram: www.instagram.com/theplazaseoul

neighborhoods | RIYADH

Desert After Dark Everything changes in Riyadh by night. BY RICHARD NEWTON

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN Riyadh’s two principal neighborhoods is day and night. Literally.

Daytime Riyadh bakes in the desert heat, its modern skyline often blotted by heat haze, sand storms and pollution. From May to September, temperatures typically soar above 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Locals and visitors do their best to reduce their exposure to the vicious sun, taking refuge in air-conditioned buildings and traveling between them in air-conditioned vehicles.

After sunset, the temperature drops by 10 degrees or more, and a new city blossoms. Sidewalks and parks that, during the day, are sun-bleached and empty suddenly flood with people and color. The city lights up with neon and the sounds of families out strolling.

The World Sights Park just east of downtown, beside the Eastern Ring Road, proves a particularly charming place in which to mingle with locals. Here a trail leads you among spot-lit scaled replicas of famous international landmarks — the Taj Mahal, the Eiffel Tower, Egypt’s pyramids, Rome’s Coliseum — as well as a cluster of familiar Riyadh buildings.

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Close by, the Saqer-Aljazirah Aviation Museum displays an excellent collection of aircraft and memorabilia spanning the entire history of aviation in Saudi Arabia. The exhibits are housed both indoors and in the surrounding gardens. Arrive in the hour before sundown to see the planes outside in the best light. The museum is open 4–8 p.m.

You don’t have to go far for a bite to eat. In the same locality, the Granada Center shopping mall features a large food court with a range of familiar American outlets as well as Saudi Arabian chains such as Shawarmer, which specializes in kebabs.

Riyadh, a huge, sprawling city of more than 7 million people, is made up of a patchwork of neighborhoods, some commercial and exceptionally modern, some retaining fragments of the city’s past, some exclusively residential. In the course of your visit, as the city’s geography falls into place and you become familiar with some of these districts, you soon understand the crucial demarcation is not geographic. Riyadh’s best neighborhood is the night.

NEON NIGHTS: Riyadh skyline PHOTO: © HANSMUSA | DREAMSTIME.COM

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@GTmag vice president Katie Skrzek takes us to South Jersey for brewery and winery hopping, including stops at @HawkHaven Winery, @CapeMayBrewCo, @CapeMayVineyard and @Beach PlumFarm

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The GT team is having a great time out in San Diego for Global Business Travel Association — GBTA’s 50th anniversary!

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friends & family | PHNOM PENH

Phenomenal Phnom Penh Encounter a blend of Buddhist virtues and Western convenience at every turn. BY ALLIE MOORE VANS, CARS AND MOTORBIKES (known as “motos”) whizz around Independence Monument at the junction of Norodom and Sihanouk boulevards, while vendors push two-wheeled carts of eggs down the dusty numbered streets, announcing their presence through megaphones affixed to their carts with twine. Only on major thoroughfares do drivers of the deluge of vehicles obey the rules of the road.

Elsewhere, it’s every moto for itself. Phnom Penh’s grid of streets is the epitome of chaos, but amid the dense tropical humidity that

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hovers imposingly over the Cambodian capital, tranquility can come in the most unexpected moments.

With one of the world’s largest concentrations of nongovernmental organizations, Phnom Penh hosts a fair number of events and conferences for nonprofit professionals. As such, the gradually growing Southeast Asian city evolved to meet the needs of visiting professionals and their personal entourages.

With a recently enhanced city-wide bus system, a year-old train connecting the airport to the city and an infrastructure investment of $300 million during the past five years, Phnom Penh makes strides — long overdue by some cities’ standards — that finally bring the Kingdom of Cambodia’s biggest city into the present day.

Between ducking in and out of open-air markets and attempting to find pedestrian-friendly sidewalks, it’s easy to get swept away by Phnom Penh’s turbulent environment; but buried beneath the revving of motos and tuk tuks, you’ll discover a people deeply

CENTER OF ACTIVITY:

Phnom Penh Independence Monument PHOTO: © PRESSE750 | DREAMSTIME.COM

ROYAL TREATMENT:

Silver Pagoda (left), outdoor market (right), and Phnom Penh Royal Palace PHOTOS: © PRESSE750 | DREAMSTIME.COM

rooted in history and tradition.

The Royal Palace offers an ideal starting point for an all-ages journey through the Kingdom’s capital. This residence of Cambodia’s royal family provides insight into centuries of history. Built in 1866 by the current king’s great-grandfather, the solid-gold roof tiles, crystal Buddha statue and Silver Pagoda offer just a glimmer of the opulence adored by the royals. Although the family’s living quarters are not accessible to the public, visitors can tour the grounds around the Silver Pagoda, the Throne Hall and the Chan Chhaya Pavilion for $10.

Just beyond the gates of the Royal Palace lies the city’s riverfront, where a promenade stretches north to south along the Mekong River. Here, restaurants serving a global palate of cuisines line the parallel quay. Keep your eyes peeled for sandwich boards advertising boat tours for all ages, granting passengers a unique perspective of the city from the river’s edge.

A stroll north along the river and a left turn on Street 94 eventually reveal Wat Phnom, a Buddhist temple — the city’s tallest religious monument — commemorating the founding of Phnom Penh. Rising from the center of a traffic circle, Wat (Khmer for “temple”) Phnom (Khmer for “hill”) stands 88 feet tall and dates to the 14th century, when legend says a woman named Penh discovered a small golden Buddha statue at the site. To this day,

LODGING THE GREAT DUKE PHNOM PENH Formerly the InterContinental Hotel, this longstanding accommodation located in the business district remains a frequent choice for business travelers and features a stunning outdoor pool, spa and three dining areas.

296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd. $$$$ IROHA GARDEN HOTEL & RESORT This restored mansion, constructed in the 1930s, transformed into a tropical oasis equipped with suites and private villas surrounding a sparkling pool and on-site spa.

8, Street 73, Sangkat Tonle Bassac $$ RAFFLES HOTEL LE ROYAL A few blocks from Wat Phnom and a city institution since 1929, the hotel features local Khmer and French colonial design and serves as a center of the city’s social scene.

92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh $$$

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ALL THAT GLITTERS: Central Market

PHOTO: © RICHARD VAN DER WOUDE | DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING KHÉMA PASTEUR An exquisite French eatery a few blocks north of Independence Monument, Khéma serves elegance in every dish, from six different egg brunches to loose teas to entrées such as beef bourguignon and coq au vin.

Corner of streets 228 and 51 $$ MALIS PHNOM PENH The Phnom Penh outpost of this Cambodian restaurant (with a second location in Siem Reap) prides itself on using local ingredients such as palm sugar, bang kang (Mekong water lobster) and amok, a Cambodian fish curry.

136 Norodom Blvd. $$$ TOPAZ France and Cambodia coalesce on the plate at Topaz, where a rotating door of Michelin-starred guest chefs bring diversity and unique flavors to diners who have a little extra money to spend on extravagance.

162 Preah Norodom Blvd. $$$$

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the temple remains in use and is considered the geographic central point of Phnom Penh.

About a mile southwest of Wat Phnom sits Central Market, Phnom Penh’s largest and liveliest open-air market. The four arms of this humming shopping center warrant a visit if only to spy local shoppers bargaining back and forth with vendors for the best prices on everything from homewares to clothing to fresh fish from the Mekong.

For an air-conditioned consumer pastime, step into the international oasis of Eden Garden, a brand-new facility with shops, a cinema, bakeries and even a Starbucks, absent from the Kingdom until recently. Visitors to Eden Garden can taste the world without leaving Phnom Penh, as its restaurants serve American, German, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Khmer cuisine.

Instead of eating what you could probably find back in your home country, consider learning how to cook local by booking a cooking class at Feel Good Cooking School. Sign up the family for a class where you can learn to make three traditional Khmer dishes. The school supports the Feel Good Café, a social organization that trains and encourages locals to pursue their aspirations in business and the culinary arts.

If you happen to visit Phnom Penh during the rainy season and face the daily afternoon monsoon, head to Kids City, a 10-story indoor play facility with activities for all ages, including go-karts, a gym and a toddler area. Those seeking reprieve from the tropical heat can gather the family in a rental car or taxi and travel to The Kingdom Resort and Spa, where a refreshing pool and water slides await.

Despite the immediate culture shock that shakes many a Western visitor, finding a sense of solace in Phnom Penh is as easy as speaking with a smiling local.

OCTOBER 2018

INFO TO GO

Phnom Penh International Airport is the largest of Cambodia’s three airports. Bus 3 of the recently integrated bus system takes travelers from the airport to various points throughout the city for 1,500 KHR (about $0.37) 5 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Tickets can be purchased on the bus. For $5, the even newer KK Star Airport Express bus operates every 30 minutes during peak hours and every 60 minutes off-peak.

Tickets can be purchased in the airport, and the route makes eight stops throughout the city, with a final stop at Toyoko Inn on Street 78 near the Swan Bridge.

Small groups with light baggage can hire a tuk tuk, a small carriage pulled by a motorbike. Normally, passengers should negotiate the price before agreeing to ride, but airport tuk tuks charge a standard fare of $7–12, depending on the destination. A final transportation option is a traditional taxi; fares range $9–15 depending on the distance.

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The GA Group, a world-renowned interior design firm that worked on Four Seasons Casablanca and Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, led the work on Executive Tower. The design is full of Korean beauty, yet remains simple and classic.

Rooms boast Beautyrest The One mattresses to ensure a comfortable stay, and a new-concept clothing management device, Styler, in suite rooms.

The Royal Suite, the largest of its kind in Korea, lives up to its name, featuring Beautyrest Black, the largest bed available in Korea and one of the most premium mattresses made. A C. Bechstein grand piano is also a highlight, as well as the private fitness area with equipment from Italian brand TechnoGym.

EXECUTIVE TOWER Wrap yourself in relaxation the minute you enter the Executive Tower with its Walk in the Woods signature scent. The notes of citrus green, freesia floral and woody musk refresh and soothe, and blend with a balance of refreshing fruit and aromatic flowers scents. In room, amenities are crafted by the hotelier collection of Diptyque, using oils and essences of citrus, green mandarin, cashmere and cumin. The hair care products and cleansing gel uplift with citrus and orange blossom hints.

Executive Tower features the largest club lounge in Korea. Here, guests privately check-in at Sky Lobby. Meeting rooms, business services and Packing & Unpacking services are also available.

All suites have a Valet Box, so there’s no need to ask staff for laundry service.

Le Salon is an exclusive luxury lounge for Executive Lounge guests. Breakfast, light snacks, afternoon tea and happy hour are served, and the Live Station boasts bartenders, baristas and a chef at your service.

Korea’s only restaurant by Pierre Gagnaire returns at Lotte Hotel Seoul, introducing a new menu with reasonable prices to offer customers more opportunities to enjoy classic French cuisine in the Korean city. Pierre’s Bar offers a stunning nighttime view and 10 new signature cocktails.

The French boutique-style space also boasts a wide selection of single-malt whiskeys. The PG Bar Membership’s two tiers, Gold and Platinum, entitle members to select drinks dependent on the level.

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A luxury experience awaits. Visit lottehotel.com for more information.

bucket list | TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY

All Aboard!

Take a journey like no other on the Trans-Siberian Railway. BY RICHARD NEWTON

RAIL PASSAGE: (Left to right) Golden Eagle luxury train attendants, an Imperial Suite, a train on the railway along Lake Baikal, dining service, Lake Baikal, Baikal seals, and Harbin ice city with magnificent structures built entirely from ice PHOTOS: © GOLDEN EAGLE LUXURY TRAIN, © ANATOLY TIPLYASHIN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALEXANDER PODSHIVALOV | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LIKEFERMAT | DREAMSTIME.COM

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TIME STANDS STILL WHEN YOU EMBARK on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Most obviously, you become immersed in a travel experience little changed since the 19th century. Electric engines replaced steam, but otherwise it’s the same rhythm of wheels on track, the same sway of the carriages, the same endless scroll of Russian countryside.

More subtly, you ride within a traveling warp of Moscow time. Through six nights and seven times zones, across nearly 6,000 miles, all clocks on the train and on the station platforms are set to the time of your increasingly distant departure point. It makes logistical sense, but the farther east you travel, the greater the difference between the time on the clocks and the reality.

Time stands still in one other way. Without internet access to the outside world, there is little relief from one forgotten aspect of old-fashioned travel: long hours of boredom. Set against the stretches of tedium, the highlights of the journey shine like jewels.

Contrary to popular belief, the Trans-Siberian Railway is not a single route or a particular train service. There are several options, some more adventurous than others. The high-end choice is the Golden Eagle luxury train, running a limited number of journeys on the Trans-Siberian routes between July and SepOCTOBER 2018

tember. Cabins are en suite with showers, and there is fine food in the dining car, expert lectures during the journey, and even WiFi access in the bar. Pampering doesn’t come cheap: The cabins range $16,000–74,000 (for the Imperial Suite) for two weeks.

At the other end of the scale, third class on a standard train costs around $200 for the entire journey, which can be broken up along the way. There are no showers, bathroom facilities are shared, and you’ll sleep close to complete strangers.

The ideal middle ground between those extremes is first class on the Rossiya service. A two-berth compartment costs around $1,800 (excluding accommodation at your chosen stops).

Aboard the train you will immediately come into the orbit of the formidable female cabin attendants. Be sure to establish a good relationship with them. Your well-being throughout the journey is in their hands.

Although the standard Trans-Siberian services run in both directions (and are heavily used by locals), most foreign tourists opt to travel eastbound, starting either in St. Petersburg or at Moscow’s Yaroslavsky Station. The classic route is to Vladivostok in the Russian Far East, though there are two other popular routes, both to Beijing, either via Mongolia or Harbin.

Non-stop, each route takes six nights to complete. Tourists

s bered date m u n d d . o oscow on ered dates b M m u m n o r f n e s v t on e epar ladivostok a service d V iy s m s o o r f R d e h n a T

tend to break the journey along the way, giving themselves up to two weeks from start to finish. One of the first must-see stops is the city of Yekaterinburg, located close to the Ural Mountains — the geographic divide between Europe and Asia. The downtown skyscrapers could be anywhere, but there is also plenty of pre-Soviet architecture, including the impressive Kharitonov Palace.

Traveling on, Irkutsk presents the next essential stop. While interesting in and of itself, the city’s major attraction is nearby Lake Baikal, the deepest lake in the world, containing approximately 22 percent of the world’s fresh water. Listvyanka, the closest lakeshore town, can be reached in about an hour by bus from Irkutsk.

Lake Baikal harbors many unique animal species, including the remarkable Baikal seal. The seals can be seen in captivity at the aquarium in Listvyanka.

To see them in the wild, it is worth arranging an escorted tour to the Ushkaniye Archipelago in the center of the lake. Allow three days, departing from Irkutsk.

From Irkutsk, the onward routes branch in three directions. The Mongolian option to Beijing will take you via that country’s capital, Ulaanbaatar. Heading southeast from there, the tracks cross the vast Gobi Desert. The other route to Beijing stops at Harbin, one of China’s most interesting cities. Best known for its winter ice festival (December–February), the city boasted a large Russian population in the early 20th century, with its architectural legacy still evident.

On the Russian route, some travelers choose to stop off in the city of Khabarovsk, at the confluence of the Amur and Ussuri rivers. The 500-mile route from there to Vladivostok takes you through Siberian tiger country, though the chances of spotting one of these shy big cats are extremely remote.

And so, at last, arrival in Vladivostok, a naval port closed to foreigners until the collapse of the U.S.S.R. in 1989. You probably won’t want to stay here long; it’s not the most inspiring place. But to paraphrase Ralph Waldo Emerson: Life is not a destination, it’s a journey. Few journeys match the Trans-Siberian Railway.

INFO TO GO

The classic Trans-Siberian Railway journey is eastbound, from Moscow to Vladivostok. Most international flights arrive at Moscow’s Sheremetyevo Airport, 18 miles northwest of downtown. Trans-Siberian trains depart from Yaroslavsky Station (one of nine main railway stations in Moscow).

The Vladivostok terminus is located in the center of that city. Vladivostok International Airport, an hour’s drive north of downtown, offers flights back to Moscow or to Seoul (ICN) for onward international connections. The other popular terminus is Beijing. TransSiberian trains arrive at Beijing Railway Station, southeast of downtown.

International flights depart from Beijing Capital International Airport, 20 miles northeast of downtown.

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kicking back | MAUI

Tropical Persuasion For the perfect slice of rejuvenating aloha, nothing beats Maui.

BY DEBRA BOKUR

LUSH LANDSCAPE: The botanical garden in Iao Valley State Park with the Iao Needle in the background

PHOTO: © CHRISTOPHER ENG WONG | DREAMSTIME.COM

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THE LUXURIANT SLOPES OF MAUI are a million shades of green. I’m deep within the western side of the island, immersed in the lush, brilliant emeralds of Iao Valley State Park, where the soaring, 2,250-foot-tall Iao Needle points toward the heavens. Long ago, this naturally formed rock pinnacle served as an altar to ancient indigenous peoples. Now, hikers like my husband and me stroll the paths, making unique, individual connections to this landscape.

Hawai’ian legends tell the tale of how the demigod Maui lassoed the sun and tamed it, ensuring there would always be adequate daylight for planting and gathering crops.

For visitors in search of a little rest and relaxation, that means plenty of time to enjoy the island’s beauty.

We’ve deliberately timed this visit to coincide with the return of the humpback whales that spend part of the year in the waters surrounding Hawai’i. In the morning, we head out to participate in a whale-watching cruise with Pacific Whale Foundation, a research and education group that offers a variety of seasonal eco tours departing from Ma’alaea Harbor north of the old whaling town of Lahaina.

In the company of a marine naturalist and a dozen or so other whale watchers, we

globaltravelerusa.com

OCTOBER 2018

INFO TO GO

Commercial flights from the U.S. mainland and other islands in Hawai’i arrive at Kahului Airport, about three miles east of Kahului town between Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. Transportation includes taxi, Maui Bus and Maui Airport Shuttle Service (one way or roundtrip) operated

by Roberts Hawaii, with multiple destinations island-wide. The shuttle service does not require reservations, and tickets can be purchased at the shuttle service counter in the baggage claim area from 5:30 a.m. until the last flight of the day.

Maui Bus operates multiple routes every 90 minutes from marked stops outside the arrivals area at the terminal. Most major car rental agencies can be booked; locate the rental car building on the walkway just beyond baggage claim.

HAWAI’IAN WONDERS:

Baby humpback whale breaching in Lahaina (top), Hana Highway Bridge at Upper Waikani Falls (middle), and Kaulanapueo Protestant Church (bottom) PHOTO: © DAVIDHOFFMANNPHOTOGRAPHY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CHRIS CURTIS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © AINEOFYTOS | DREAMSTIME.COM

board an eco-friendly catamaran and head out into the channel separating Maui from the island of Lana’i. In less than 10 minutes, the naturalist points out a mother humpback whale and her young calf, barely a hundred yards from the bow.

He explains the young whale was born after the pod’s recent return from its 3,500-mile annual migration from near the Alaskan coast. For two hours we watch the baby cavort in the smooth waters while two adult males do their best to impress the mother.

Despite a number of acrobatic and graceful leaps above the surface of the sea and some fierce jostling between them, the males prove unable to capture the mother whale’s interest — evidence, it seems, that despite the island’s reputation for romance, not all its residents can be seduced.

We leave the whales to work out their own relationship issues. Following a long swim in the warm sea and a change of clothes, it’s time to shift gears and head for the legendary Hana Highway.

Unfurling before us like a length of tangled ribbon, the road slips away from the small town of Pā’ia toward Hana along Maui’s eastern shore. It’s still early in the day, and the light retains a soft quality that plays out in shadows cresting the highway.

Someone with far more energy than I’m ever likely to possess once documented more than 600 zigs and zags along the highway separating Pā’ia and Hana, punctuated by more than 50 narrow bridges. As the road becomes Highway 360, the snaking curves become more pronounced.

On the ocean side of the highway, an exit leads to the historic Kaulanapueo Church, and we pull in to take a peek. The building dates to 1853, an architectural relic from what was once a strong missionary presence here. Just beyond Kailua town, a series of small bridges passes through the Waikamoi Bamboo Forest. The parking lot is surprisingly deserted, and we leave the car

LODGING KĀ’ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL With 11 acres of tropical gardens and an enviable position on Kā’anapali Beach, this traditional property boasts a whaleshaped pool and cultural activities for guests: hula lessons, garden walks, Hawai’ian language sessions, ukulele classes and nightly hula performances.

2525 Kā’anapali Parkway, Lahaina $$$$ THE PLANTATION INN A short walk from the harbor and Lahaina’s famous Front Street shopping district, this tropical, luxury bed-and-breakfast is adults-only, with an outdoor pool and historic plantation architecture.

174 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina $$$ THE RITZ-CARLTON, KAPALUA On a tranquil stretch of seacoast in Kapalua, this luxury destination hotel boasts two golf courses; an indulgent spa with traditional therapies; six dining venues; and 463 guestrooms, suites and Club Level accommodations.

1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua $$$$

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SLICE OF PARADISE:

Halfway to Hana sign (top), Garden of Eden Botanical Gardens and the Keopuka Rock Overlook (middle), and Napili Bay (bottom) PHOTO: © FABIAN MESEBERG | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MITGIRL | DREAMSTIME.COM, © STEVENGAERTNER | DREAMSTIME.COM

for a brief hike on the loop trail that starts near the picnic area.

Back on the road an hour later, we take note of the Halfway to Hana sign near the Garden of Eden Arboretum & Botanical Garden. There’s a fresh banana bread stand near the entrance, and we linger over our selection before adding a loaf of still-warm bread to our picnic bag. The smiling woman at the stand who wraps it for us tells us this local treat is made from small, sweet apple bananas cultivated on the island.

About four miles before reaching Hana town, we exit the main road and follow the turnoff signs leading to Kahanu Garden, a National Tropical Botanical Garden. The extensive grounds, with a forest of breadfruit trees and collections of Polynesian plants, encompass 500 acres, all of it breathtaking.

The grounds are also the location of the Hale o Pi’ilani Heiau, identified by archaeologists as the site of one of the largest sacred ruins in the entire Pacific. It was once the home of Maui’s royal Pi’ilani family, whose extraordinary achievements during the 16th century included the construction of a paved trail that completely encircled the island.

The next day we keep moving — and this time the horsepower doesn’t come from our rental car engine but from actual horses at Ironwood Ranch in the small town of Napili. We ride through pineapple fields and into a low-lying valley with a misty, rainforest quality, listening to the soft rustle of hooves among grass and a serenade of tropical birdsong.

The day wraps up with a moonlight cruise on a catamaran from Trilogy Excursions. We relax on the deck as the sails billow with a soft, steady wind, carrying the boat into the deeper water at the island’s edge. The night fills with sounds of water splashing against the sides of the boat, and we sip fruity cocktails as the stars slowly reveal themselves above the cliffs along the shore, while the Hawai’ian moon floats among them.

By the time we dock, I’ve devised a plan that involves running away without telling anyone how to find us. We’ll live stress-free beneath the palm trees beside the sea, with fresh mango and papaya for dinner every night.

The sweet scent of frangipani blossoms fills the air as we stroll away from the dock, and reality begins to wiggle into my dream.

I simply don’t know if I have the necessary skills or patience to trade shells to keep my shoe collection up to date. And if I know my husband, he’s going to insist on a refrigerator. It is, after all, really the only practical way to keep Champagne satisfactorily chilled.

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DINING ALOHA MIXED PLATE Newly renovated, this Mala Wharf institution is a local favorite, with a Poke of the Day choice and fresh vegetables from the restaurant’s own farm. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

1285 Front St., Lahaina $$ MAMA’S FISH HOUSE Family-owned for more than 40 years, this Maui institution has a great old Hawai’i tiki-torch vibe

and a menu of fresh catch delivered daily by local fishermen.

799 Poho Place, Pāʻia $$ THE MILL HOUSE Along with fresh and farm-driven menu selections by Executive Chef Jeff Scheer, diners can drink in organic, sugarcane craft cocktails and breathtaking views of the West Maui Mountains over lunch or dinner.

1670 Honoapiʻilani Highway, Waikapu

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9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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lgbtq+

Hospitality-Plus Hilton shows its rainbow colors. BY MARK CHESNUT A BASIC TENET OF ANY HOTELIER is to be hospitable. And Hilton Worldwide — which owns Waldorf Astoria, DoubleTree, Embassy Suites, Conrad and Hilton Hotels & Resorts, to name a few brands — carved one of the industry’s strongest reputations for welcoming LGBTQ+ guests as well as staff.

“An important factor contributing to Hilton’s success as an LGBTQ-friendly destination is the company’s diligence in consistently creating atmospheres of inclusion for our guests and team members, while supporting organizations important to the community and creating environments for travelers to feel safe and free around the globe,” said Andrea Richardson, head of multicultural and diversity engagement, Hilton Worldwide.

The company’s approach is visible in various ways.

Once again this year, for example, Hilton took part in a variety of LGBTQ+ pride festivals and parades around the globe —including major events in New York City and Washington, D.C. In addition, Hilton this year sponsored Time to Thrive, a conference organized by the Human Rights Campaign that promotes the safety, inclusion and well-being of LGBTQ+ youth.

To showcase its welcoming environment to guests, Hilton has a Go Out travel offer, available on its website, providing guests with an array of noteworthy perks, including premium WiFi, a free one-year digital subscription to OUT magazine, two free welcome beverages and late check-out, based on availability.

Hilton also proves its gay-friendliness on the employee side, aiming for an inclusiveness that embraces diversity.

The company offers inclusion resources such as an adoption assistance program, an Executive Diversity Council and an

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LGBTQ and Friends Team Member Resource Group. Hilton also collaborates with a number of LGBTQ+ rights organizations including the HRC, the Gay and Lesbian Alliance Against Defamation and the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association.

The company’s positive work environment and employment practices garnered positive recognition for several years.

Hilton Worldwide has regularly ranked at the top of the HRC’s corporate equity index, and in 2017 Hilton became the first hospitality company to join the Global Equality Fund, a U.S. State Department initiative that aims to protect and advance the fundamental rights of LGBTQ+ people around the world.

FULL PARTICIPATION: D.C. Pride Parade

PHOTO: © MARK CHESNUT

airport update

High and Mighty O.R. Tambo International Airport reigns as Africa’s biggest hub. BY ERICH MARTIN

COMING AND GOING: O.R. Tambo International Airport

PHOTO: © ULRICH MUELLER | DREAMSTIME.COM

OLIVER TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT airports.co.za

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LOCATED SQUARELY IN THE COMMERCIAL and industrial district of South Africa, in Gauteng, the Oliver Tambo International Airport represents the biggest hub into and out of Africa.

The facility is not only the busiest airport in the network of Airports Company South Africa but also is the busiest airport on the entire continent, easily accessible by South Africa’s national road system from Johannesburg.

Prior to 2006, the airport was called Jan Smuts Airport. The rename came in honor of the memory of Oliver Reginald Tambo, a national hero of South Africa. In 1993 the airports in South Africa, including O.R. Tambo International, transferred from state ownership to ownership through the Airports Company South Africa. Last year, this behemoth of an airport accommodated more than 21 million passengers, with a capacity to serve 28 million each year. The port also boasts a cargo capacity of 650,000 tons per year.

In all, more than 50 percent of all air traffic through South Africa comes through O.R. Tambo International.

The facility has the profile of a world-class airport. High-end duty free shopping, luxury hotels on the premises and a number of lounges for domestic and international passengers make seasoned travelers and novices alike feel welcome and comfortable in the airport. Services including a post office, medical clinic and a dry

OCTOBER 2018

cleaner join specialty gift shops, luggage shops, bookstores and more to give travelers a wide array of options.

The hub for South African Airways as well as a great conduit to the world outside of Africa, O.R. Tambo International connects to every inhabited continent, with 41 total airlines flying through the airport.

The airport’s location uniquely affects its operations. At more than a mile above sea level, the increased elevation results in thinner air, making for more challenging takeoffs. To compensate, departing aircraft often do not fuel to capacity in the interest of reducing the weight of the plane. This means long routes departing from O.R. Tambo need to refuel en route but can often return without a necessary refueling.

The airport’s high altitude also means aircraft need longer runways on takeoff and landing to account for the thin air. As a result, the airport has two of the longest runways on the planet.

In addition to all the amenities catering to travelers of all stripes, O.R. Tambo International has a strong on-time performance record, with 86.68 percent of all movements going out on time.

Factor in that the airport coordinates and operates nearly 221,000 different movements annually, and 86 percent seems remarkably consistent.

health

Safety First Know how to help if someone near you has a seizure. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN A SEIZURE IS THE PHYSICAL changes in behavior after an episode of abnormal electrical activity in the brain. The term “seizure” is often used interchangeably with “convulsion.” During convulsions, a person experiences uncontrollable rapid and rhythmic shaking, with the muscles contracting and relaxing repeatedly. There are many types of seizures. Some have mild symptoms without shaking.

It may be hard to tell if someone is having a seizure. Some seizures only cause staring spells, which may go unnoticed. Specific symptoms depend on which part of the brain is involved.

Symptoms occur suddenly and may include a brief blackout followed by a period of confusion, changes in behavior, drooling or frothing at the mouth, eye movements, grunting and snorting noises, and loss of bladder or bowel control.

Other signs include mood changes, shaking of the entire body, sudden falling, tasting a bitter or metallic flavor, teeth clenching and a temporary stop in breathing.

Symptoms may stop after a few seconds or minutes, or continue for up to 15 minutes. They rarely continue longer. The person may have warning signs before the attack, such as fear or anxiety, nausea, vertigo and visual symptoms (such as flashing bright lights, spots or wavy lines before the eyes).

Seizures of all types are caused by disorganized and sudden electrical activity in the brain.

This may result from abnormal levels of sodium or glucose in the blood; brain infection including meningitis; toxemia of pregnancy; brain injury to the baby during labor or childbirth; phenylketonuria (PKU), causing seizures in infants; brain problems occurring before birth; fever in young children; brain tumor; drug abuse including street drugs; electric shock; epilepsy; head injury; heart disease; heat illness/intolerance; high fever; poisoning; stroke; toxin buildup in the body due

to liver or kidney failure; extremely high blood pressure; venomous bites and stings; withdrawal from alcohol or certain medicines after extended use.

When no cause can be found, seizures are called idiopathic. This is usually seen in children and young adults but can occur at any age. There may be a family history of epilepsy or seizures.

If seizures continue repeatedly after the underlying problem is treated, the condition is called epilepsy.

Most seizures stop by themselves, but during a seizure, the person can be injured. If you are traveling and a person near you has a seizure, the main goal is to protect the person from injury.

Try to prevent a fall. Lay the person on the ground in a safe area. Clear the area of furniture or other sharp objects. Cushion the person’s head. Loosen tight clothing, especially around the neck. Turn the person on the side; if vomiting occurs, this helps prevent the inhalation of vomit into the lungs. Look for a medical ID bracelet with seizure instructions. Stay with the person until he or she recovers, or until medical help arrives. Monitor the victim’s pulse and rate of breathing.

Do not restrain the person. Do not place anything between the person’s teeth, including your fingers. Do not move the victim unless he or she is near something hazardous. You cannot stop a seizure. The individual has no control over it and is not aware of what is happening. Do not give the person anything by mouth until convulsions stop and the individual is fully alert. Do not start CPR unless the seizure has clearly stopped and the victim is not breathing or has no pulse.

If a baby or child has a seizure during a high fever, cool the child slowly with lukewarm water.

Do not place the child in a cold bath. Call your child’s health care provider and ask what to do next. Ask if it is safe to give the child acetamino-

phen once he or she is awake.

Report all seizures to the person’s health care provider. The doctor may adjust or change medications. A person who has a new or severe seizure is usually seen in a hospital emergency room. The health care provider will try to diagnose the type of seizure based on symptoms.

Tests can rule out other medical conditions that caused the seizure or similar symptoms.

Other causes may include fainting, transient ischemic attack or stroke, panic attacks, migraine headaches and sleep disturbances. Tests may include blood tests, CT scan or MRI of the head, EEG and lumbar puncture (spinal tap). Further testing is needed if a person has a new seizure without a clear cause or for epilepsy, to make sure the person is taking the right amount of medicine.

CALL 911 IF n This is the first time the person has had a seizure n A seizure lasts more than two to five minutes n The person does not awaken or have normal behavior afterward n Another seizure starts soon after a seizure ends n The person had a seizure in water n The person is pregnant, injured or has diabetes n The person does not have a medical ID bracelet with instructions n There is anything different about this seizure compared to the person’s usual seizures

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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be rewarded. be one.

As a ONEworld® traveler, wherever you go, your rewards follow. ONEworld extends many of the exclusive benefits of your preferred ONEworld airline’s frequent flyer program. Emerald, Sapphire and Ruby oneworld tiers each offer specific benefits which align automatically with your preferred ONEworld member airline benefits.

Make a smart choice in traveling with any of our 13 airlines and take advantage of benefits you already have.

Learn more at oneworld.com

an alliance of the world's leading airlines working as one.

American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines

ONEworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a ONEworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a ONEworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on ONEworld, visit www.oneworld.com.

American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and ONEworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of ONEworld.

past & present

At the end of World War II, Austria was separated from Germany, and the country was left without a national airline. Austrian Airlines was formed through the merger of Air Austria and Austrian Airways. On Sept. 30, 1957, Austrian Airlines AG was founded, and the new company began to operate scheduled services on March 31, 1958.

In 2000 Austrian Airlines joined Star Alliance. And in 2003 it changed its branding to “Austrian.” Photos show how the aircraft and flight attendants have changed over the years.

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PHOTOS: © AUSTRIAN

AUSTRIAN

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