October 2017 Global Traveler

Page 1

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ABU DHABI p. 66 ATLANTA p. 58 AUCKLAND p. 64 HYDERABAD p. 60 ICELAND p. 70 LISBON p. 62 SHANGHAI p. 52

TO THE BEACH Head to Boracay for sun and fun in the Philippines.

p. 72

October 2017



letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY EACH MONTH, I TAKE A TRIP down memory lane. As we work to put together each issue and I am reading the articles, memories rush over me from my own experiences in many of these same cities or, as was the case with Becca Hensley’s Abu Dhabi story, a stay at the same hotel. On page 66 learn more about Hensley’s trip with her daughter to Qasr Al Sarab, which rises like an oasis in the middle of the Liwa Desert. Reading of UP EARLY: Kimberly Krol hiking up sand dunes of the Empty Quarter their time at the hotel, I PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL recalled my own sunrise hike up the sand dunes of the Empty Quarter and other amazing memories. Enjoy this throwback picture from 2011. My voyage back in time with this issue also took me to trips to Chicago with my colleague Richard Evans to visit United Airlines’ headquarters, to my first visit to Las Vegas with my friend Beth when we stayed at a Wyndham property, to visit the flight attendant training facilities of LAN in Santiago, and to my more recent first visit to Atlanta. Meanwhile, we look to the future of United Airlines, Wyndham Hotel Group and Atlanta on pages 40, 44 and 58, respectively. Explore the meeting and incentives world in Santiago on page 48. Perhaps you’ll find yourselves tripping down memory lane with the same articles or others as you flip through the following pages including Shanghai, Hyderabad, Lisbon, Auckland, Iceland and Boracay. Don’t forget to check out our Class Act Guide, also publishing this month. You’ll find our annual, updated charts on the first-, business- and premium economy-class cabins of airlines around the world. The handy reference will help you navigate the world of aviation for the next year and also includes reports on the world’s longest routes, flight attendant training and a visit to Airbus and Boeing headquarters. I’m looking forward to even more reminiscing as we work on our November issue. I’ll be on a trip down memory lane as we take you to Singapore, Dubai, Paris and Acapulco.

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Digital Coordinator ALLIE MENZIONE allie.menzione@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

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WRITERS

MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT PATRICK T. COOPER EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE TERRY A. SPRUNGER

SUSAN B. BARNES JOE BAUR RON BERNTHAL MARK CHESNUT BECCA HENSLEY SHARON KING HOGE KARIN LEPERI MICHELLE LYN Plaza’s ALLIE MOORE Peachtree CHADNER NAVARRO ator glass elev RICHARD NEWTON sitors whisks vi ALLISON VOIGTS r stories fo

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA

72 ew of an overvi sprawl. Atlanta’s e about Read mor Atlanta on page 58.

Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

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letter from the publisher ® ®

TRAVEL ALERTS AS I WRITE THIS LETTER, Hurricane Harvey is ravaging Houston, and GT Advisory Board member Mike Donahue is riding it out just north of the city. Mike was stuck while transitioning his son from Phoenix into a new position in Houston. I am returning from a business trip in Miami, where we connected with old friends and made some new relationships, and SUNNY SIDE: Francis X. Gallagher at The Betsy South Beach I’m now heading to Cape San Blas, PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER Fla., for the Labor Day weekend and a little bleisure. Oddly, there appears to be no major effect from Harvey where I will be relaxing on the Gulf of Mexico. Last year we were in the same place when Hurricane Hermine charged across the Florida Panhandle and threatened to hit our location. As I flew in, I wondered if the storm would be worse than predicted or be a wash. Hermine moved slightly east, hitting Tallahassee hard and knocking out power to 80 percent of the residents. The night Hermine passed, the wind grew and I wondered what on Earth I was doing in its path. For us, the aftermath had zero effect, and we swam in the Gulf the next day, but it could have cut power and washed out the only road to Cape San Blas, stranding us for a long time. In retrospect, it was not a good thing to stay, and trying your luck is not the way to deal with these storms. Houston will need a great deal of support, and when it is back to business, we should visit and help its economy through travel. Restaurants, hotels and venues will need our support. Until then, the American Red Cross does great things and remains a worthy place to donate. After 9/11, a police officer told me the Red Cross was immediately on hand, offering equipment, food and water, the necessities of life. I mentioned bleisure — a benefit and privilege of a successful business traveler. To fully appreciate your business and leisure trip, be ready to combine the two, not cut off one from the other. As I travel for my R&R, I am catching up on emails, connecting with staff and writing reports to appear in this issue and subsequent issues of Global Traveler and globaltravelerusa.com. I text my team regarding things I witness and subjects we should cover on our three platforms: GT; trazeetravel.com; and our newest venture, whereverfamily.com. I have an exciting trip this month to Dubai and Abu Dhabi and will travel on Saudi Arabian Airlines. It has been many years since I first flew Saudia, and I look forward to trying its new first-class suite. Look for a GT Tested review in an upcoming issue. Until then, enjoy your travels, and please let me know your thoughts regarding WhereverFamily!

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THE COOK ISLANDS THE BEST ISLAND PACIFIC RIM TWO YEARS IN A ROW

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contents

October 2017 44

60

52

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

40 Positive Direction United Airlines rolls out new policies, aircraft and routes.

52 Destination One: Shanghai The modern business city embraces East and West while building for the future.

44 Way to Grow As it expands, Wyndham Hotel Group brings more choices to travelers. 48 Grand Entrance Santiago takes center stage as a premier business destination.

52

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ON THE COVER

58 Stateside: Atlanta Atlanta pulses with vibrancy and innovation. 60 9–5: Hyderabad Entertain corporate clients in India’s innovative city.

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October 2017

ABU DHABI p. 66 ATLANTA p. 58 AUCKLAND p. 64 HYDERABAD p. 60 ICELAND p. 70 LISBON p. 62 SHANGHAI p. 52

TO THE BEACH Head to Boracay for sun and fun in the Philippines.

62 After 5: Lisbon Lisbon abounds with views and venues for after-work amusement.

36

p. 72

COVER PHOTO: SUNSET SAILING AT WHITE BEACH ON BORACAY ISLAND, PHILIPPINES PHOTO: © GONCHAROV2006 | DREAMSTIME

© SNEHITDESIGN | DREAMSTIME

FEATURES

PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES, © WYNDHAM WORLDWIDE, © IAKOV KALININ | DREAMSTIME,

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contents

October 2017

72

70

66

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

26 27 28 30 32 34 36 37 76 80

10 13 16 22

64 Neighborhoods: Auckland Auckland balances urban chic with the wonders of nature.

Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Spoils Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health

Mail Call News Reviews One on One Mandarin Oriental, Taipei 24 One on One Qantas Airways 78 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

66 Friends & Family: Abu Dhabi Discover the exotic allure of Abu Dhabi. 70 Bucket List: Iceland Explore the glacial grandeur of Iceland’s remote wilderness. 72 Kicking Back: Philippines Head to Boracay for sun and fun in the Philippines.

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Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2017 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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mail call AUGUST Q&A: WITH ANDREW RISCH

Q&A WITH FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER, PUBLISHER AND CEO

In the August issue, Andrew talked about some of his recent travel destinations, including China — his favorite. Andrew’s choir was chosen to perform at a ceremony for the Beijing Olympics, and while in China he enjoyed visiting Hong Kong, the Forbidden City and other notable landmarks. He asked: What is your all-time favorite destination? If you’ve visited China, what was the highlight of your trip? In response to Andrew Risch, I had an unusual visit to Shanghai in May. This was my fourth visit to this wonderful city, but it was different this time. On May 14 a football game was played in Shanghai as part of the Australian Football League, the first game played for competition points outside of Australia and New Zealand. Aussie Rules football seems even more mysterious to the Chinese than it is to Americans. My team, Port Adelaide, played the Gold Coast Suns. The match was part of an Aussie promotion — trade and tourism between the two countries is becoming increasingly important. More than 5,000 Port Adelaide fans made the journey, many of them for the first time. The match was played before 10,000 spectators at the historic Jiangwan Stadium, built in 1935 for the Pan Asian games. Security was heavy, with 1,000 police and security officers.

As we launch whereverfamily.com, I am increasingly concerned about parents holding toddlers and infants during flights versus buying separate seats for children. I think this is a dangerous practice, as there is no safe way to hold a child during sudden and severe turbulence. The money saved on a ticket should not be at the expense of children’s safety. What are your thoughts on holding toddlers and infants on flights? Have you personally experienced or witnessed a situation where a child was in danger on a flight because the child did not have his or her own seat? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

That’s one for every 10 spectators — obviously the authorities mixed up Aussie Rules football with British soccer! It was a fun weekend for us Port Adelaide fans, especially as we won by 10 goals. A highlight for me was waiting for the subway to the stadium with more than 100 fans. A woman asked me if I knew what stop to get off. When I replied yes, she said to her friends, “Follow him!” Once off the train, I had the fun of leading 100 fans to the stadium! TONY NOBLE, Globility

Board member

My friends and I did a China trip last year, and we still talk about it all the time. We tried to do some different things, and one of the highlights for us was Yangshuo. The town was a bit crowded, but it’s known for its limestone mountains, more amazing than you see in pictures. We took a boat ride in the evening along the

Li River, and it was just gorgeous. Friendly people, too, and most of the signs and menus were in English, an appreciated surprise.

TASTE FOR ADVENTURE

great! My husband had a business trip in London recently, and my son and I went along and spent a long weekend in the Cotswolds. It was beautiful. We rented a car, golfed at Cotswold Golf Breaks and walked around Chedworth, an incredibly pretty village. I wanted to get to Stratford-upon-Avon (English major in college) and Bath, but my son was less interested, and both places were more than an hour away. The highlight for me was Sudeley Castle in Winchcombe. I’m an Anglophile, so when I found out one of King Henry VIII’s wives was buried there I had to go. The castle was built in the 15th century and includes gorgeous gardens to walk through. I took no less than 500 pictures. I love London, but I think England’s real charm is spread out in its countryside. I’m so glad Kim had the opportunity to get out there. I’m already planning my next trip.

I noticed Kimberly Krol was in the Cotswolds recently — that’s

LISA MADDY, via email

TRACEY GOOD, via email Very impressive Andrew got to sing at the Olympics! I’m in China for work often, and I tend to take it for granted. As crowded as some areas can be, there’s a reason they’re crowded. The Great Wall, the Terracotta Army and the Forbidden City are all pretty amazing. I’m overdue for another visit to some of them. Great article on Jinjiang, by the way — really interesting to learn how many things are manufactured there. I would love to see an article on Jiangsu. It’s a beautiful part of China that doesn’t get a lot of coverage. ANTHONY KIM, via email

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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THE SOURCE FOR LUxURY BUSINE

ABU DHABI

A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE

feature kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

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TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

www.globaltravelerusa.com

the g to

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pevine Through the Gra

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sa.com

globaltraveleru

AUGUST 2017

THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE As a fellow wine lover, I really enjoyed Kristy Alpert’s article in the August issue, and the entire issue for that matter! Keep the wine articles coming. I’ve spent time in wine regions in Italy, France and Napa, but my recent favorite was England, believe it or not. My wife and I spent some time in Kent this summer, visiting Chapel Down and Biddenden — both recommended by a bartender in London, where we spent the first part of our England trip. We loved Chapel Down’s Union Red 2015 and the Bacchus Reserve 2015. Everything at Biddenden was good, especially the sparkling wines. The vineyard owners and operators are proud of the reputation they’re building at a place not commonly known for wine, and it shows in the quality. Highly recommended! JOE RAEBURN, via email

ECLIPSE 2017

Your article about destinations where you can avoid the crowds came at a funny time, right after I complained to my kids about getting frustrated lately traveling certain places because of over-tourism. I can absolutely agree with Wales — one of my favorite places to visit. I’d also add Naxos, Greece, to the list. My wife and I celebrated our 30-year anniversary there. It had everything you’d want in a Greek vacation (great wine, food and beaches) without thousands of tourists. We stayed at the Galaxy Hotel, which I’d also recommend. It only has 50-something rooms, so it was nice and quiet and right next to a great beach.

I saw you posted a couple of articles on your website about the solar eclipse — such an amazing experience! My family and I live in Columbia, S.C., and while I expected crowds, I never imagined the congestion. My eldest son was supposed to move in to his dorm at the University of South Carolina, but the date got moved because the school thought it would be too chaotic. From what I heard, local hotel prices skyrocketed in the area, and traffic was a mess. We hung out at home for the day to be safe and watched from our backyard, but a few friends told us it was a gridlock. PAM MINDY, Columbia, S.C.

MICHAEL KIMPTON, via email

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Availa at the


news Free WiFi on Norwegian Air

Europe’s fastest-growing budget airline plans to prolong its stay at the top with a new feature: free in-flight WiFi on all flights, including those across the Atlantic Ocean. Within the next year, Norwegian Air will outfit select aircraft (such as Boeing 787 Dreamliners and 737 Max planes) with WiFi capabilities at no extra charge to passengers,

marketing itself as the first trans-Atlantic airline to offer the service. Norwegian was also the first European airline to provide free in-flight WiFi for short-haul routes within the continent. Also within the next year, the low-cost airline will continue to expand service from European locations like London’s Gatwick Airport to U.S. cities like Chicago (ORD) and Austin (AUS). norwegian.com

PHOTOS: © KOVA1EV | DREAMSTIME, © NICHOLAS BURNINGHAM | DREAMSTIME, © THE KRANE

AIRBERLIN, JETBLUE FORM PARTNERSHIP After American Airlines cut its codeshare agreement with airberlin, the German airline struggled to keep up with other European airlines while remaining part of the oneworld alliance. However, in September airberlin began a partnership with JetBlue in the form of an interline agreement, with the potential to develop into a codeshare agreement. The current terms of the agreement allow passengers to book flights with both airlines on the same ticket and to exchange loyalty points between the two. Travelers will also be able to check their bags through to their final destinations rather than collecting and rechecking bags when changing airlines mid-trip. This partnership will apply to flights between the United States and Germany as well as connecting flights from New York (JFK), Boston (BOS) and Orlando (MCO) to 31 other JetBlue destinations such as Washington, D.C. (DCA); Denver (DEN); Los Angeles (LAX); and Bermuda (BDA). Airberlin recently filed for insolvency after leading shareholder Etihad Airways withdrew financial support. A government loan will help the airline continue flying until November. As of press time, discussions regarding the sale of the airline were ongoing. airberlin.com jetblue.com

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Copenhagen’s Crane-Turned-Lodging

Northern European countries are getting creative when it comes to developing new luxury accommodations for visitors. On the heels of the Netherlands transforming closed prisons into highend resorts, Denmark’s capital city converted a construction crane into a luxury hotel, spa and business center. Named The Krane, the former coal crane still dangles over Copenhagen’s Nordhavn Harbor and comprises four stories of space, each of which can be reserved and rented individually. The first-floor meeting room can host business gatherings, but it may be difficult to concentrate with harbor views through the 360degree, floor-to-ceiling windows. The third floor houses a lounge and bedroom for two guests, decked out in black for a coal-chic ambience, while the second floor features the spa, complete with two free-standing bathtubs that overlook the harbor. Guests of The Krane will have access to an on-site BMW i3 electric car for joy rides around Copenhagen, as well as two bicycles. Prices to stay in The Krane start at $2,900 per night. thekrane.dk

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news

Wyndham Purchases Home-Sharing Site

Travelers longing to sequester themselves to finally learn the basics of wine will soon be able to hit the high seas for such an education. This fall, Norwegian Cruise Line plans to host cruises with itineraries that revolve around learning more about the beverage from major players in the industry. Vintners from around the world will host tasting sessions with passengers in which they will explain what goes into producing the wine, where it comes from and the best ways to enjoy the varietals. After tastings, passengers can take part in five-course dinners with wine pairings. Vintners will also host question-and-answer sessions for passengers, after which they will sell and autograph signature bottles available to cruise passengers only. Some of the seven-day journeys include trips from Boston to Bermuda with Michael Mondavi from Napa and round-trip routes from Miami featuring celebrity chef Aaron Sanchez; Languedoc-Roussillon’s Gerard Bertrand; and owner of Tuscany’s Il Borro winery, Salvatore Ferragamo. ncl.com

Frontier Debuts 85 New Routes

By next summer Frontier Airlines will serve a total of 82 destinations after a progressive rollout of 85 new domestic routes this fall and next spring. Major Frontier hub Denver (DEN) will experience the biggest expansion with 20 new destinations, both direct and indirect, including Boise (BOI), Calgary (YYC), Reno (RNO) and Grand Rapids (GRR). New destinations from other cities include Charleston (CHS), Pensacola (PNS) and Buffalo (BUF). Not only will the number of new destinations increase, but also current destinations that previously required a connecting flight will see non-stop flights available for the first time. In total, Frontier’s route possibilities will increase to more than 1,000 by the middle of 2018. flyfrontier.com

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PHOTOS: © NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE, © RADARMAN70 | DREAMSTIME

NCL Launches Wine Education Cruises

As the sharing culture shows no signs of slowing down, the travel industry refocused its efforts on not only making customers happy but also attracting them in the first place. The Wyndham Hotel Group — well aware of this shift in travel culture — recently acquired Love Home Swap, a home-sharing site that lets travelers stay in each others’ homes. Wyndham has its own homesharing network called Wyndham Home Exchange. Operated by RCI, one of the world’s largest vacation networks for home sharing, the program allows vacation rental owners to swap properties with other owners around the world for an agreed-upon period of time. Home-sharing sites like Airbnb moved beyond personal space rentals; some have expanded to also offer curated experiences for travelers or assistance with booking flights and other transportation. Whether Wyndham’s recent acquisition will follow this trend remains to be seen. Although Love Home Swap now falls under the Wyndham umbrella, it will operate as an independent entity. wyndhamhotels.com lovehomeswap.com


deals & rewards

Loyalty Perks at Independent Hotels

Alps Wine and Dine Weekend

Switzerland’s wine might not be as popular as the versions exported by its neighbors, Italy and France, but the exclusivity of Swiss wine warrants a visit, especially with the Alps as a backdrop. Zürich’s 173-year-old Hotel Baur au Lac offers a special romantic weekend package for travelers that includes a four-course, rooftop dinner by candlelight; a vineyard visit with transportation via Rolls-Royce; daily breakfast; and access to the hotel’s amenities such as the fitness club, minibar and fresh mineral water. The special runs until the end of October with prices ranging from $5,050 per couple for a deluxe double room to $6,400 per couple for a suite stay.

Membership with a travel rewards program certainly has its perks, but what if all the big names are booked? In recent years select independent hotels partnered with larger hotels’ loyalty programs so guests can still earn and redeem points even if they’re not booking one of the name brands. These “soft brands” include the Marriott’s Tribute Portfolio, a selection of international hotels that welcomed Starwood Preferred Guest members since 2015, or the Hotel del Coronado in San Diego, which will join the Hilton Honors loyalty group this fall. Other major players are following suit to offer more variety to members, such as Best Western’s Premium Collection of properties and Fairmont’s expansion to international hotels under the President’s Club umbrella.

PHOTOS: © ASTRA490 | DREAMSTIME, HOTEL BAUR AU LAC, © CHRISTIAN HEINZ | DREAMSTIME

bauraulac.ch

Access Lounges with Economy Tickets

In years past, the only way to access exclusive airport lounges was to be a member of an airline’s most esteemed rewards program or a carrier of a top-rated credit card. These days, airport lounges open their doors to all travelers, regardless of type of ticket (or credit card).

Getting into these lounges may be non-selective, but some do require an access fee, which can range in price. The Priority Pass app allows access into more than 850 lounges for a $99 signup fee followed by an entrance fee of $29 at each lounge, or an annual membership fee of $249 that includes entrance to 10 lounges during the course of one year. Another mobile app called LoungeBuddy lets you pre-book à la carte lounge access at worldwide airports without having to worry about a membership. Finally, check with your credit card company to see if you’re eligible for lounge access as part of the card’s travel benefits. Select Citi and Chase cards offer free membership to Priority Pass and free access to lounges with the membership. prioritypass.com loungebuddy.com

IHG’s New Cancellation Policy

In August the InterContinental Hotels Group implemented a new cancellation policy in hopes of deterring last-minute cancellations that leave guestrooms (and the hotel group’s pockets) empty. When booking flexible rates in the Americas, guests who wish to cancel must do so at least 24 hours before check-in. Once it was introduced in the Western Hemisphere in August, IHG applied the policy to its properties in Africa, Asia and the Middle East in September. The one exclusion from this new policy is Kimpton Hotels, which requires cancellations at least 48 hours before check-in. ihg.com

OCTOBER 2017

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GT tested

THE PENINSULA NEW YORK Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

Guest Quarters: Our room was spacious — likely bigger than a majority of New York City apartments. A separate dressing room, two closets, a vanity area and the double sinks in the bathroom were all much-appreciated amenities as we got ready for the evening, allowing each of us ample space and privacy. The door opened into a hallway, with the living room to the right. The space offers views of Fifth Avenue and was furnished with a small table, two chairs, a desk, a couch, a coffee table and an armchair. The couch sits opposite a TV housed in a built-in wall unit, also home

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to the minibar and other amenities. On the left of the entrance is a half bathroom before the room opens into the vanity/closet area. The large marble bathroom features a soaking tub, shower, separate water closet, two sinks and my favorite Oscar de la Renta bath amenities. I especially appreciated the travel-sized hand sanitizer! Services/Amenities: For a central location in the Big Apple, you can’t go wrong at The Peninsula New York, conveniently located to Central Park, Rockefeller Center, Fifth Avenue shopping and Broadway. Inside the hotel, enjoy the rotating art exhibits sometimes on display. This visit afforded me the opportunity to dine at Clement, but unfortunately there wasn’t time to stop by Salon de Ning rooftop bar and terrace or Gotham Lounge. Next time I visit, afternoon tea at Gotham Lounge is top on my list. In-room dining is also available. Also high on my list for my next stay is a visit to The Peninsula Spa, which offers signature treatments blending Asian, European and Ayurvedic philosophies. A fitness center, indoor pool, sun terrace and Vu Hair New York salon round out the wellness offerings. Meeting and event space is also available.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ As is always my experience at The Peninsula brand, the service is exceptional, with a true attention to detail. ◆ I was in New York City overnight to see a Broadway musical; while the weather was pleasant and I opted to walk, it was nice to know the hotel offered a complimentary shuttle to and from Broadway for hotel guests. ◆ I enjoyed both breakfast and dinner at the on-site Clement Restaurant, serving American fare. Both meals were fantastic. The Peninsula New York 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 tel 212 956 2888 newyork.peninsula.com

PHOTOS: © THE PENINSULA NEW YORK

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at the 5-star New York City hotel late afternoon on a Friday. After a trafficcongested cab ride from Penn Station, I was eager for a quick check-in and some downtime before my evening plans. I was traveling with my mom and wanted her to enjoy a luxury experience, as we were celebrating her recent milestone birthday. Upon our arrival, our bags were carried up the steps and to the reception desk for us, where a welcome surprise awaited — we’d been upgraded to a deluxe suite. In just a few minutes we were on our way to the 1,050-square-foot guestroom with plenty of time to relax before our dinner reservation.


GT tested

PAN PACIFIC SEATTLE Reviewed by Carly Allen

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The location of the property ensures you are just minutes from the business district, Pike Place Market and top restaurants.

PHOTOS: © PAN PACIFIC SEATTLE

Arrival/Check-In: I got into Seattle mid-morning and was greeted by blue skies and temperatures in the high 70s, a perfect day by Seattle standards. I took a cab from Seattle-Tacoma Airport and arrived at the Pan Pacific in less than 30 minutes — hours before check-in. The front desk greeted me warmly, assuring me they would put a rush on my room, and held my luggage as I enjoyed a complimentary cocktail at the lobby restaurant and bar. The restaurant and lobby feature floor-to-ceiling windows, providing natural light; I took in the comfortable atmosphere while I got some work done in front of the fireplace. Within an hour I was headed to my room, where my luggage was already waiting — a nice touch. Guest Quarters: My Space Needle Suite lived up to its name. Beyond a short hallway the room opened up, with large windows on two sides offering a prime view of the famous landmark. In the living room a full sectional couch faced a large TV with a full bar to the left. The view from here at sunset was spectacular. A full guest bathroom with marble accents and a view was adjacent. Against the windows a six-person dining area with a beautiful artistic lighting fixture was perfect for inviting friends or colleagues to my room. There was a welcome gift of local craft spritzers and popcorn, and a bouquet of flowers arrived a bit later. Sliding doors led into the bedroom which also boasted large windows, showing views of the city and numerous construction proj-

ects. The small desk offered plenty of electrical outlets for my many gadgets, but the ergonomic chair was the highlight; I was tempted to ask where they got it. The king-sized bed dominated the rest of the room and faced another large, flat-screen TV. An open window gave a view into the large bathroom and amazing spa tub. (Shutters can be closed for privacy.) The bathroom also boasts a glass-enclosed, stand-alone shower and sand-colored marble vanity with plenty of space. The closet was small, but the adjacent full-length mirror made up for it. Services/Amenities: The Lobby Bar on property also offers the room service menu, giving you a great selection any time of day in the lobby and its outdoor patio or in the privacy of your room. The bartenders know how to make a delicious spicy Bloody Mary. But that’s not all: A coveted Starbucks is just on the other side of a door off the lobby, and a Whole Foods Market sits just below, perfect for a quick snack. The gym was under renovation, so I was unable to take advantage of it during my stay, but the beauty of Seattle is its walkability. The property provides a 24/7 business center and car service with complimentary rides within two miles of the hotel, offered every time you are about to leave the property, when available. The staff at the hotel went above and beyond every step of the way, and I look forward to coming back soon.

OCTOBER 2017

◆ The entire staff was friendly and helpful and made sure my stay was as comfortable as possible — take advantage of the car service. ◆ The Space Needle Suite views are a mustexperience if staying at the Pan Pacific. Pan Pacific Seattle 2125 Terry Ave. Seattle, WA 98121 tel 206 264 8111 panpacific.com

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GT tested

THE BETSY SOUTH BEACH Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

Guest Quarters: I found the mini suite, room 136, comfortable and set up shop immediately in the little built-in workstation on the far right of the living room. Not huge, the area did have a sofa and a TV

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on the opposing wall, though the TV was a little on the high side for viewing. On the far end of the area, sliding doors led to a surprisingly large porch located on a large inner courtyard, perfectly suited for events. A few steps from my porch, on the right side of the courtyard, another space provided a quick exit to the side street. Adjacent to the living room, the bedroom held a massive kingsized bed which just about fit; the bonus was a large walk-in closet to store luggage and hang clothes, complete with padded hangers and a safe for locking up valuables. Between the two rooms, the bathroom featured Goetz Peppermint shampoo, cilantro conditioner and rum hand and body wash. A nice, disposable loofah was tucked behind the product dispensers on the inside wall of the large shower, which boasted an aggressive showerhead. The one sink in the bathroom was in keeping with the historic look of the property. Services/Amenities: The team was there to please, and we developed a fine rapport with the bartender, Nick, at the B Bar in the Colonial Wing. We had dinner there one evening, ordering from the LT Steak & Seafood restaurant menu. We enjoyed some really lovely grouper and sirloin that evening while tasting some handcrafted cocktails combined with Nick’s wit and sarcasm. Nick talked us into a stroll down to the beach; the water was amazing, and the sand was soft on our feet. Breakfast was also served in LT and was quite enjoyable. Check out the rooftop bar, Ocean Deck, where you can relax, and have a spa treatment at the Wellness Garden & Spa if you wish — yoga classes are on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays at 7:30 a.m. with the sunrise!

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The room included a nicely presented and stocked minibar. ◆ The Betsy is in a fantastic location within walking distance of great eateries like A Fish Called Avalon. ◆ In this terrific section of South Beach, you can swim in the warm waters and enjoy the South Beach sand. ◆ Proud of its support of writers and their craft, the hotel lists more than 300 artists who have called The Betsy home. The Betsy South Beach 1440 Ocean Drive Miami Beach, FL 33139 tel 305 531 6100 thebetsyhotel.com

PHOTOS: © THE BETSY SOUTH BEACH

Arrival/Check-In: Arriving at MIA, I picked up my Hertz rental and keyed in the hotel’s address on the north edge of Ocean Drive, just beyond the Versace mansion. My route took me north on Ocean past the restaurants and key locations in South Beach. The hotel is located on the opposite side of the street, requiring what I call a “Philly move,” making an aggressive U-turn to reach the valet parking attendant (a move I repeated many times during my stay). The car was swiftly taken, and during my entire time at The Betsy, the front door and parking staff were helpful with my vehicle, which was always waiting for me out front. The building, formerly the historic Betsy Ross Hotel, was totally renovated in 2009, adding the Carlton Hotel as a wing of the property in 2016 to create a single hotel. Known as one of the great literary arts hotels, it hosts a series of readings and events in The Writer’s Room. Check-in could have been a little swifter, but several guests were lined up at the same time, and the team was friendly and courteous. Our luggage was taken to two different and distinct rooms in the Carlton Hotel wing, now known at the Art Deco Wing. The Betsy Ross Hotel wing is referred to as the Colonial Wing. Getting to the rooms is part of the adventure; from the front desk you take a stroll past the pool and then to the next set of doors on the right to an elevator. Once on your desired floor, you navigate around hallways — and in our case, past a quaint reading room and library — to your room.


GT tested

ROSEWOOD LONDON Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

PHOTOS: © ROSEWOOD LONDON

Arrival/Check-In: I arrived at Rosewood London in the early evening after a full day spent exploring the Cotswolds. Despite feeling fatigued, the energy and the buzz in the lobby were contagious, and I felt re-energized. The incredibly friendly reception staff greeted my friend and me warmly, checked us in quickly, pointed us in the right direction, and we were in our room in just a matter of minutes. Guest Quarters: My friend and I were booked in an executive room, which afforded us both an adequate amount of space. The door opened to a small hallway with the spacious marble bathroom to the right and the bedroom straight ahead. The bathroom boasted a soaking tub and overhead shower. Two twin beds sat across from the TV and credenza, separated by a nightstand and both flanked by a nightstand and a desk/vanity, offering plenty of space and outlets. Crisp whites, like the bedspreads, and pops of color, such as the red accents near the corner table, accented the dark and light grays of the décor. What stood out the most in the room was the efficient use of space. There was ample seating as

well as more than enough storage, plus two people, our luggage and all the needed in-room amenities, and it still felt like there was space to spare. Other in-room amenities included complimentary WiFi, a Nespresso machine, Italian linens, a pillow selection, evening turndown, a Geneva sound system and D.R. Harris toiletries.

Services/Amenities: My one-night stay was far too short. Luckily, it included a delicious dinner at Holborn Dining Room (highly recommended) but not time to enjoy Mirror Room (where breakfast is served), Holborn Delicatessen, Scarfes Bar, GQ Bar Pop-Up, The Lobby or afternoon tea. The central location of Rosewood London cannot be beat. The Fitness Suite boasts state-ofthe-art equipment and on-site personal trainers. Sense, A Rosewood Spa is also on property. A variety of function rooms combine the architectural details of the building with modern amenities. Artwork and installations are on view at the property, and families will enjoy the Rose Buds for Children kids’ program. Pets are also welcome.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ As soon as I pulled into the hotel’s tucked-away, private entrance, I was immediately drawn by the vibe, a feeling that continued when I entered the lobby. ◆ In conversations with the hotel prior to my arrival, I noted my traveling companion and I had plans to see Les Misérables. Upon entering my guestroom, I was greeted by a delicious chocolate cake adorned with the musical’s logo and a book about the performance — a nice touch! ◆ As my visit coincided with the start of Wimbledon, the outdoor shrubbery was whimsically decorated with tennis balls. Rosewood London 252 High Holborn London WC1V 7EN United Kingdom tel 44 20 7781 8888 rosewoodhotels.com

OCTOBER 2017

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GT tested

THE LENOX HOTEL Reviewed by Nicole Quasté

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Get the soft pretzels with the IPA Cheddar dipping sauce at City Table. You’re welcome. ◆ You’re not imagining it. The lobby smells incredible when you walk it. It’s an essential oil blend, diffused through the vents.

Guest Quarters: While the guestroom was a little on the smaller side, it was beautifully decorated and comfortable. Every detail, from the elaborate carpeting and furniture to the plush bedding, gave a nod to the hotel’s history. My room featured a large TV, a king-sized pillow-top bed, a mini-fridge with complimentary water and a spacious desk with several charging ports. The bathroom boasted

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Italian marble and was stocked with all-natural Beekman 1802 bath products. Services/Amenities: From replacing room keys to fulfilling direction requests to the nearest pizza place and helping to hail cabs, The Lenox Hotel staff went above and beyond throughout my stay. The hotel offers 24/7 room service; a 24-hour business center; fast, complimentary WiFi; and morning tea and coffee in the lobby, supplied by small, independent roaster Share Coffee. We were often on the go during this trip, so I didn’t get the opportunity to take advantage of the 24-hour fitness center or bike rental service, but given the hotel’s great location, I imagine a day of biking around the Back Bay area would be lovely. I enjoyed a cocktail one night at City Bar, located in the lobby, and breakfast each morning at City Table. Sólás is a charming pub offering classic Irish fare for lunch and dinner.

◆ Peter Medeiros just may be the world’s best head doorman. Ask for his advice regarding anything and everything. ◆ Take advantage of the hotel’s Moment’s Notice service for everything from travel essentials like toothbrushes, Tylenol and Band-Aids to late-night snacks and bath salts. There’s a full list of complimentary products available in each guestroom. The Lenox Hotel 61 Exeter St. at Boylston Boston, MA 02116 tel 617 536 5300 lenoxhotel.com

PHOTOS: ©THE LENOX HOTEL

Arrival/Check-In: In July I attended the annual Global Business Travel Association convention in Boston, and I had the pleasure of staying at The Lenox Hotel. My colleagues and I arrived to a particularly friendly greeting by the doorman and were shown into the lobby — a beautiful, warm space with coffered ceilings, colonial-style chandeliers, ornate décor and plush furniture. The hotel was built in 1900; and while its history is palpable, its location and chic lobby City Bar and City Table restaurant offer a contemporary vibe.


Non-Stop Delight @My Transit in Taiwan Beef Noodles 8:30PM

Tea Culture

Bubble Tea

2:20PM

10:20AM

3C Market 5:38PM

Mango Ice 4:46PM

Night Market 9:50PM

Dumplings 11:30AM

Hakka Fabrics 6:05PM

Temple 5:52PM

National Palace Museum 3:43PM

Peking Opera 7:00PM

Taipei 101

Jiufen Old Town 7:50PM

10:53PM

I never thought my transit in Taiwan would be so utterly amazing and unforgettable. Delicate dumplings, beef noodles and bubble tea restored my appetite after a long flight. The National Palace Museum, Longshan Temple and Peking opera opened my eyes. Stunning views from Taipei 101, bustling night markets and chic bars thrilled me. My transit in Taiwan: A brief yet incredible whirlwind of non-stop delight!

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one on one

MICHAEL ZIEMER General Manager, Mandarin Oriental, Taipei

Best advice for business travelers: Trust your hotel laundry service; they really do take care.

Name: Michael Ziemer Title: General manager Company, city: Mandarin Oriental, Taipei Number of employees: 650 Recent project: Concept changes for two restaurants: from formal French to all-day dining, and from a Cantonese to a Chinese restaurant serving specialties from around China, Hong Kong and Taiwan First job: Hotel management trainee in Sydney, Australia Little-known fact about you: I truly enjoy the simpler things in life! YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? As technology replaces human tasks, it will be more important and, unfortunately, a luxury for guests to experience face-to-face service. Younger generations face the challenge of exchanging mean-

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ingful conversation with guests, as our generation was taught to do. More time will need to be allocated on how best to communicate with future guests. Best career advice you’ve received: Every morning when you look in the mirror, believe in what you see and be true. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Take your time; enjoy the different experiences, good or bad; be prepared to make sacrifices along the way; and most importantly, remember those who helped you and give back to another. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Hiring a car in Leeds in the U.K. and driving to York and Whitby and seeing the British moors One travel tip you cannot live without: Allow room for an extra

OCTOBER 2017

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from a stay at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei? Mandarin Oriental, Taipei offers world-class facilities and unparalleled service, raising the standards of luxury and comfort in the hospitality industry in Taiwan. From the moment guests book a stay to the second they depart, the entire team indulges them with the highest level of luxury and comfort. The 256 guestrooms and 47 suites, designed with classic inspiration and contemporary touches, are the most spacious in the city, ranging from 590 square feet. All rooms and suites feature the latest technology, luxurious marble bathrooms and walk-in closets. Suite guests can also enjoy the prestigious Oriental Club, offering daily Champagne breakfast and evening cocktails. Guided by our heritage and influenced by local cultural practices and wellness rituals, The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei is a world-class center for healing, offering holistic treatments and therapies for the rejuvenation of body, mind and soul. Each guest experiences the ultimate in relaxation with a personalized spa journey. Tell our readers about the hotel’s dining concept. Mandarin Oriental, Taipei showcases innovative concepts and superlative cuisine in six stylish and sophisticated settings, including The Jade Lounge, the most popular afternoon tea

venue in town; the signature Mandarin Cake Shop, offering a variety of delicate savory and sweet items; and M.O. Bar, one of Taipei’s most exciting destinations for cocktails and fine wine. Guests can also enjoy our three restaurants designed by the internationally acclaimed designer, Tony Chi. Ya Ge delivers authentic traditional Chinese gourmet, combining the highest-quality seasonal ingredients into elegantly presented dishes. Friendly and relaxed Café Un Deux Trois serves a wide range of international cuisines, while Bencotto offers traditional trattoria-style Italian cuisine in a lively atmosphere with heartwarming service. What does the hotel offer for meeting and events? Our stunning event spaces provide an unrivaled level of sophistication and elegance through luxurious interiors, innovative cuisine, the latest technology and gracious service. Guests and event planners can rely on the trusted Mandarin Oriental name, an experienced team and a luxury environment that motivates and inspires. The awe-inspiring Grand Ballroom affords the highest level of exclusivity and opulence. At 10,000 square feet, this regal space with a 24-foot-high ceiling hosts up to 1,200 guests but can be subdivided to accommodate more intimate events. An adjacent pre-function area is ideally placed for coffee breaks or drinks and canapés prior to main events. The Mandarin Ballroom, a 5,000-square-foot space for up to 550 guests, and the five Oriental rooms can be configured to accommodate 10 to 110 guests. The spectacular Grand Salon on the eighth floor with its stately 68-foot-high dome creates a dramatic backdrop for wedding ceremonies, fashion events and product launches.

PHOTO: © MANDARIN ORIENTAL TAIPEI

fold-up bag; you never know what you are going to buy!



one on one

STEPHEN THOMPSON Senior Executive Vice President, Qantas Airways dining experience in the sky. Fresh ingredients, an onboard cook and a menu led by famed Australian chef Neil Perry paired with local wines help us create a restaurant experience. We employ lots of hotel and restaurant staff, and our team has a great deal of training in wine and food service. We strive to make a difference by showcasing our Australian characteristics. As “Spirit of Australia” appears on every fuselage, we must live up to our motto.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Technology

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around the customer experience will continue to lead innovation, from quick booking and tracking to onboard products. Qantas has always been an innovator; we were the first to develop business class. Our new Boeing 787-9 is a game changer, allowing us to fly London to Perth in seven to eight hours. We work closely with GE for fuel-efficient engines and keep a close eye on our carbon footprint. Passengers love our Airbus A380s, which offer more space; some passengers actually route themselves to ensure they are on the aircraft. Best career advice you’ve received: Always put the customer into the heart of what you do. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? The airline industry is very complex and always changing; never lose your sense of humor.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: My honeymoon to Santoríni, Greece. We have been back since, and it was amazing to see the changes. When we first visited, donkeys took tourists down the steep cliffs, but now buses show up full of people. One travel tip you cannot live without: Take a jog after a long flight to combat jet lag. Exercise helps get your body back into cycle. Best advice for business travelers: Travel light; it helps you get to your destination as quickly as possible and through the airport without hassle. ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from a flight on Qantas Airways? Expect the most unique

With a new app and in-flight WiFi coming to Qantas, what other upgrades can travelers expect in the next five years? Our biggest upgrades will come with our new Boeing 787-9 Dreamliners on our U.S. routes. Our new business suite, designed by Thomson Aero in Dublin, will look just like first class for our business passengers. Our new economy class will have an additional inch of legroom, with even more in our premium-economy product.

PHOTO: © QANTAS AIRWAYS

Name: Stephen Thompson Title: Senior executive vice president Company, city: Qantas Airways; Los Angeles, Calif. Number of employees: 28,000 worldwide; 250 in the United States Recent project: G’Day USA, our annual campaign with Australia to bring trade, tech, Best of Australia to the United States First job: I sold insurance in Adelaide for 12 months, then moved into the airline industry, starting at Ansett Airlines for 14 years and then Qantas for 24 years. Little-known fact about you: I run three times a week, three 10k jogs around Santa Monica. I also run when I travel to help with jet lag.

Tell our readers about the perks and partnerships of the airline’s frequent-flyer program, such as the one with Ingogo. Members earn one Qantas Point per dollar spent on eligible taxi travel booked using the Ingogo app. We also recently launched a program with Airbnb in which members earn one Qantas Point for every dollar spent with Airbnb. We established partners in dining, shopping and hotels in which you earn points and upgrades. Our female loyalty members can put their status on hold during maternity leave from business travel, making sure they return with their status. Our frequent-flyer program boasts 11.5 million members in a country of 23 million. Our goal is to make our members feel like they are part of the airline.



technology

EXERCISE SMARTER Enhance your sporting performance and analysis with wearable devices. By Jack Guy COROS LINX SMART CYCLING HELMET Crash helmets are a basic piece of safety equipment for cyclists, and most contemporary models offer a similar design. The LINX smart helmet looks familiar from the outside, but it packs some serious technology. Many riders like to listen to music through headphones while they’re on the move. While a lack of road noise might make cycling more enjoyable, it isn’t safe to shut yourself off from the world around you. The Linx uses bone conduction technology to let you stay ears-free on the road as you listen to music or take calls using the built-in wind-resistant microphone. $199.99 coros.com

MYONTEC MBODY Professional sportspeople have collected performance data for years, and now you can, too. Instead of focusing on heartrate data alone, the Myontec Mbody smart shorts measure and analyze muscle performance as well, making them the first wearable product to do so. The shorts are aimed at cyclists, runners and swimmers, and the high-quality triathlon padding means they will stay comfortable even over longer routes. Gather data in real time and combine it with other parameters such as speed, pace or cadence for analysis on the accompanying mobile app or the web-based Suunto Movescount sport tracking service. $932. mbody.fi

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JBL UA SPORT WIRELESS HEART RATE HEADPHONES Sports apparel specialist Under Armor collaborated with audio wizard JBL on a new set of Bluetooth-enabled earphones with a built-in heartrate monitor. While Jabra and Bose also make headphones with heartrate sensors, the JBL UA dedicated sports earphones are built to stay in your ear while you work out. The headphones connect to the UA Record platform, a free app that tracks your performance, and provide you with audio prompts so you can go longer, quicker and faster than previous workouts. $199.95. jbl.com

PHOTOS: © MARTIN YACONIS, © COROS, © ZEPP, © JBL

ZEPP SPORTS TRAINING SENSOR While most wearables attach to your body, Zepp fixes onto your sports equipment. The sensor attaches to your tennis racket, golf glove or baseball bat and gathers data on your swing before evaluating how you can improve and offering customized training programs. A soccer version attaches to your sock and records kicks, top speed, sprints, distance and more. Zepp effectively allows you to coach yourself by evaluating and improving your performance using data. Tennis kit $99.99 zepp.com


wine & spirits

TRIPLE DELIGHT

PHOTOS: ©GREG NESBIT PHOTOGRAPHY/ CHÂTEAU DE CHAUSSE

Provence entices with whites and reds along with its famous rosés.

MENTION THE WINES of Provence and most people think pink. Understandably so. Rosé comprises 35 percent of the wine made in this region in southern France, almost 6 percent of all rosé made in the world. But Provence also produces less known and highly attractive whites and reds. This was apparent in a tasting of the wines of Château de Chausse, a 135-acre property nine miles from St.-Tropez. Since Charles S. Cohen, the American film producer and distributor, bought it in 2016, every aspect of the property has enjoyed a continual state of improvement. Under the watchful eye of consulting oenologist Laurence Berlemont, this is especially true of the château’s wines. Berlemont is a native of Provence, and after earning her degrees in oenology and agronomic engineering and working in other French wine regions, she returned to Provence and began her consultancy. She can be proud of the wines she produced at Château de Chausse. The white grape Vermentino, called Rolle in France, makes up Château de Chausse Côtes de Provence White 2016, a wine of great varietal character and perky acidity. A most flavorful aperitíf. Château de Chausse Côte de Provence Diamant White 2016, also 100 percent Rolle, presents a different set of flavors, a fuller-bodied wine that goes admirably with an entrée of fish or veal. The winery’s 2016 rosé, a pale pink blend of Cinsault and Grenache, offers a wine with balance, enticing fruit flavors and lively acidity — an excellent example of Provence rosé. And there are the reds. Château de Chausse’s Red 2013, made from equal amounts of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, is firm and young and promising. So is the château’s Red 2011, a blend of 60 percent Syrah and 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon — 2 years older and still quite firm. For my taste, the most delicious of the reds is Château de Chausse Côtes de Provence Red 2012, a wine of equal amounts Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon that can be described in one word: delicious. Prices range about $22–28 for rosé, $30–33 for white and $35–38 for red.

BY EUNICE FRIED

ces se produ de Chaus u a ually. e n t n a a h e C of win s le t t o b 70,000

OCTOBER 2017

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wealth

STEP BY STEP Learn the building blocks to a sound investment portfolio. The third leg of a more traditional asset allocation includes cash, and more recently investment managers are including a fourth, alternative investments which may include real estate, commodities, hedge funds and the like.

IF YOU DON’T HAVE A SOLID foundation for your portfolio, how can you build and construct a strong portfolio meant to endure the years leading you to and through retirement? Like building an itinerary, a sound portfolio begins with where we want to go and how much time we have. STEP 1: ASSET ALLOCATION Asset allocation involves an investment strategy aimed at balancing risk and reward by apportioning a portfolio’s assets according to an individual’s goals, risk tolerance and investment horizon. A typical investment portfolio consists of three traditional asset classes and, sometimes, a fourth alternative class. A classic example is the blend of stocks and bonds which in “typical” market environments are negatively correlated. The combined return is the average of the two, but the risk is far less than the average since the two tend to offset one another, as one typically rises when the other falls.

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STEP 3: SECURITY SELECTION Securities selection is the final step. At this point, individual securities, mutual funds or exchange-traded funds are usually identified and fit into each of the portfolio’s allocated buckets. This, however, can be the most complicated. This is where fundamental research comes into play to analyze which stocks, mutual funds or ETFs offer the most promise within a sector to which you want exposure. Proper portfolio construction is both an art and a science. It requires the ability to apply long-term statistical data with discretion to adjust for current and anticipated economic conditions. As with all things financial, there is no one cookiecutter solution. Each individual investor must weigh assets versus goals to make the most informed decision.

PHOTO: © OUTLINE205 | DREAMSTIME

STEP 2: DIVERSIFICATION The initial process of general asset allocation only provides a few broad strokes of diversification. Diversification itself, however, is the next integral step of building a portfolio, in which you determine the various asset sub-classes or economic sectors represented within each asset class. Key sub-classes may include large, mid, small and international company stocks. Those categories can be further subdivided into growth or value stocks and specific economic sectors such as basic materials, health care and energy. Categories for bonds may include municipal and corporate bonds and can further be broken down by duration or credit-worthiness. The ultimate decision of which asset sub-classes or sectors one should invest in is ultimately made by the needs of the investor. Is the investor tax-sensitive or tax-exempt? Is the investor looking for current income or seeking growth? For example, if an investor’s target allocation is determined to be 50 percent stocks and 50 percent bonds but the investor doesn’t want taxable income, perhaps non-dividend-paying growth stocks fit the bill for the stock portion and tax-free municipal bonds for the bond portion. Once the allocation percentages have been assigned to each of these buckets, the buckets need to be filled with actual securities.


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spoils

SPARKLE, DAZZLE AND BLING Stack, layer and mix jewelry to create a unique look. BY PATRICK T. COOPER AND TERRY A. SPRUNGER YOUR JEWELS SHOULD GLEAM, but this season opt for more refined elegance in your selection of jewelry. Starting a tradition of family heirlooms to pass down from generation to generation? Making an investment in artifacts that express your personality and achievement? Either way, here’s a buffet of designers to give you a nudge in the right direction for solid decision-making. One-of-a-kind designs and remote locations characterize this class of jewelry, so prepare for the wow factor!

RAYMOND WEIL Time to go Weil! Do you dance to your own drum? Dream of being a prima ballerina? Ladies, here is your chance to live the lifestyle with the special edition Shine Etoile by Raymond Weil in collaboration with Repetto Paris. The perfect design collaboration will have you ready for a full day of activity. You may not be dancing en pointe, but you can remain elegant in yoga class and transition seamlessly into evening with this wardrobe essential. So be spoiled, have fun and remember to dress your watch. From $2,895.

JACQUELINE ROSE A global man’s touch! Leave it up to Jacqueline Rose to nail the African stack ring. The attention to detail and cultural spin on these accessories take you around the world in a day and keep you grounded in the beauty of the Serengeti. Wearing stackable and multiple jewelry pieces will never lose its place in classic style. Enrich the wardrobe of the man in your world with an influx of elegant tribal flair. From $135.

store-us.raymond-weil.us

TAG HEUER Tag — you’re it. Tag Heuer celebrates in grand style with the iconic Autavia Calibre 02. It’s a good thing vintage watches never go out of style. The subtle brown leather strap mixed with a black automatic chronograph bezel makes for the perfect pairing. Your wrist will dance in stylish joy. From $5,150. tagheuer.com

JACQUELINE ROSE No more boring diamond tennis bracelets. Beef up your presence and put the trite items in the safe — it’s time for robust statement pieces. Invest in this gold cuff by Jacqueline Rose and your arms will attract attention from the airport ticket counter to the red carpet. This is the perfect transition piece from daytime bohemian to evening gala glamour. From $405. jacquelinerose.com

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PHOTOS: © RAYMOND WEIL, © TAG HEUER, © JACQUELINE ROSE

jacquelinerose.com


MESSIKA A decade of iconic design culminates in the Move XL Tenth Anniversary Necklace. Versatility reigns with this beautiful work of art. Worn short or long, with a vertical or horizontal pendant, you can have a field day and exude incredible style. Spoil yourself in white gold, pink gold, yellow gold … or buy all three — enjoy the assortment of brilliance in diamond design. This necklace excites with the slightest glimpse of the eye. Prices vary. messika.com

WEAR MERRY Unique finds contribute to a stellar jewelry collection. Perish the idea of another having your exact same pieces! A recent journey to Nashville, Tenn., presented an opportunity for us to Wear Merry. Now you, too, can step up your game with one-of-a-kind, made-to-order bowtie necklaces. Made of polished, oxidized sterling silver and bronze, signed and dated, these stingray textured works of art can be passed down from one generation to the next as you begin a family heirloom tradition. From $285.

PHOTOS: © MESSIKA PARIS, © MERRY BETH MYRICK, © NINA RUNSDORF, © AUDEMARS PIGUET PHOTOS: © RYAN SHELBURNE, © VISIT LUBBOCK, © NATIVE EYEWEAR, © JOSEPHABBOUD

wearmerry.com

NSR NINA RUNSDORF Say hello to Nina Runsdorf and you will never be able to say goodbye. Nina masterfully manipulates 18K white gold, turquoise, emeralds and diamonds to make your mouth water over these delicious deliverables. The brilliant and vibrant colors in this exquisite collection celebrate all the goodness in life. Be the belle of the ball. Prices vary. nsrjewelry.com

AUDEMARS PIGUET Thin is in, and we are not talking about weight loss. The 18-carat yellow gold bracelet of the Royal Oak Extra-Thin men’s watch may weigh you down just a bit. However, somehow you will endure this luxury burden and symbol of wealth and power. The blue dial with the Petite Tapisserie pattern blends beautifully with the yellow gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating. Prices vary.

AUDEMARS PIGUET Be the trendsetter with the Royal Oak Frosted Gold watch by Audemars Piguet. Florentine gold hammering, a skeleton back and pink gold casing that radiates diamond dust sparkle is the ticket. How does Audemars Piguet make this magic for the ladies? The craftsmanship of numerous small indentations creates an illumination with a blinding brilliance that makes you smile as you turn your eyes toward the glare-proofed sapphire crystal to check the time. And don’t be afraid to dip into the pool, as this timepiece is water resistant to 50 meters. Prices vary.

audemarspiguet.com

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spas

PLACE OF PEACE Find aloha at Naupaka Spa & Wellness Centre in Hawai’i. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

ISLAND BLISS: Spa pool view

PHOTO: © FOUR SEASONS RESORT OAHU AT KO OLINA

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THE HAWAI’IAN WORD “ALOHA” has several widely known meanings, including hello and goodbye, and love and affection. Even deeper, however, the literal meaning is “the presence of breath,” or “the breath of life.” According to Hawai’ian traditions as mentioned at to-Hawaii.com, “aloha is a way of living and treating each other with love and respect. Its deep meaning starts by teaching ourselves to love our own beings first and, afterwards, to spread the love to others.” When visiting the Hawai’ian island of Oahu, there may not be a better, more peaceful place to learn to love ourselves and others than the tranquil Naupaka Spa & Wellness Centre at the oceanfront Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina. Situated on the island’s western coastline and at the edge of Lanikuhonua,

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which translates to “where heaven meets earth,” it’s easy to feel like you’ve slipped into a more peaceful world upon arrival. The resort’s kama’aina style, with open-air public spaces and luxurious guestrooms filled with natural light, flows as easily through its 642 acres as the soft, warm, comforting Hawai’ian trade winds. Inside the 35,000-square-foot Naupaka Spa, 17 spacious treatment rooms are tucked throughout its four levels, complemented by three oceanfront muliwai massage hales, all available for relaxation and enjoyment. The spa’s calming décor is inviting, and its expansive menu features Hawai’ian-inspired ingredients and healing therapies. Two Himalayan salt chambers, where therapists offer halotherapy, are exclusive to Naupaka Spa within


the Four Seasons portfolio. Naupaka Spa’s signature Ho’okahi (To Make as One) Ritual treatment combines multicultural traditions into one divine 110-minute experience. Step into a chamber built of Himalayan salt blocks from Pakistan to enjoy European halotherapy with traditional Turkish hammam elements. Afterward, a Moloka’i sea salt body scrub honors the old tradition of Hawai’ian salt farming known as pa’akai, followed by a Hawai’ian lomilomi massage with heated salt stones and fragrant tropical oils. On a recent visit, I indulged in the Ho’okahi Ritual, and I am pretty sure I floated back to my suite and watched the sun melt into the Pacific Ocean, just as all of my cares had melted away from my body during that time of bliss. The leadership team at Naupaka Spa continues to listen to its guests’ desires, adding new treatments and facilities since its opening last year, including Sodashi Face Therapies using products from the popular Australian skin care company of the same name. Sodashi, meaning “wholeness, purity and radiance” in ancient Sanskrit, has led the way in chemical-free skin care development, and the spa incorporates the line’s Samadara Ultimate Age-Defying Crème into its 110minute Samadara Ultimate Age-Defying Facial. Using the natural healing powers of a warm rose quartz crystal facial massage to increase circulation, the crème can penetrate deep into the skin to increase collagen production, firmness and elasticity. Spa guests might also consider one of the Circadia Face Therapies, which work in concert with the body’s natural circadian rhythms to repair your skin while you sleep. Younger spa-goers are not forgotten at Naupaka Spa. The Keiki O Ka’Āina (Children of the Land) Therapies introduce keiki (children) to the healing traditions that connect them with their ohana, or family, and teach them self-care and body awareness. Keiki treatments are personalized for children 11 and younger, as well as ages 12 to 17. Aside from luxurious treatments, the spa houses the Yamaguchi Salon, where international celebrity stylist Billy Yamaguchi brings his feng shui approach to hair styling and whose monthly consultations focus on the five elements — fire, earth, metal, water and wood — to draw from clients’ core energy to inspire colors and styles that naturally complement their features. Within the men’s area on the spa’s second floor, classic barbering traditions combine with the luxury of an upscale men’s grooming lounge at the Barber Shop. For those looking for more activity, take lessons from a pro on one of the five Plexipave tennis courts in the

HEALING POWERS:

Chamber built of Himalayan salt blocks (top), and spa beds (bottom) PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS RESORT OAHU AT KO OLINA

Tennis Centre, found on the sixth floor of the Spa & Wellness Centre, complete with ocean views. Additionally, the cutting-edge Health Club, open 24 hours a day, features personal trainers on hand to lend their expertise. Whether you opt to stay and relax in the spa or work out a bit, take time to enjoy all of the spa and wellness amenities, including indoor and outdoor cold plunge pools, steam room and sauna, and needle shower. There is even a private lap pool and Jacuzzi on an outdoor terrace exclusively for spa guests. After a visit to the Naupaka Spa, you will quickly find it is easy to embrace this Ko Olina, “place of joy.”

Naupaka Spa & Wellness Centre Four Seasons Resort Oahu at Ko Olina 92-1001 Olani St. Kapolei, HI 96707 tel 808 679 0079 fourseasons.com

OCTOBER 2017

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golf

HAWAI‘IAN HEAVEN Play world-class golf at Oahu’s Turtle Bay Resort. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

OCEAN VIEW: Turtle Bay

PHOTO: © TURTLE BAY RESORT

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TURTLE BAY RESORT is the only resort on the beautiful North Shore of Oahu, home to some of the greatest surfing in the world. For those looking for a change of pace from Honolulu’s fast-paced Waikiki Beach, it makes a perfect getaway and offers a great number of amenities. I arrived at about 4 p.m. the day before my round, checked into my lovely ocean-view room and toured the property to get the lay of the land. Down by the beach guests were enjoying a beautiful day of sun and surf in the property’s protected cove. I settled in for an early dinner at Roy’s Beach House with a delicious mai tai and some yummy sushi. But we are here to talk about golf. The beauty of Turtle Bay is you can choose from two courses: the Fazio, built in the 1970s and running along the coast, and the Palmer, which many feel is the best-designed course on Oahu. Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay designed the Palmer Course, opened in 1992. It makes its way, and often changes its look, from wetlands to woodlands to coastal as you play 18 holes. Players meet the ocean at the Palmer’s signature par-4 17th hole. The course sprawls over 180 acres, with a little housing development through the Punaho’olapa Marsh; you will see many native birds. The drive to the first tee from the clubhouse is in itself a relaxing nature

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preserve tour. I played the Palmer on a Wednesday morning that started off with torrential downpours. I put on my golf shoes, knowing this was my only time to play. As luck would have it, the rain eventually subsided to a glorious day. I teed up with a traveler from Dallas named Bruce who was also staying at the resort.

HOLE 1 | 412 yards, par 4

I was taking a few pictures, so Bruce teed up first and swung away, sending his ball to the far right and out of bounds into the driving rain. Even Turtle Bay’s website warns of this right side. He teed up a second, which went left and a little shorter than desired but in play. The hole is a Palmer original dogleg right with a banyan tree on the right side of the hole. You either need to go over the banyan or carve a shot so it fades from left to right. I slammed my shot without a practice, probably one of my best drives of the day, landing in the center of the fairway. From there I miss-hit a chip shot, but it still landed on the green well within birdie range. Unfortunately, I missed the putt but carded a par for the first hole out of the gate.


HOLE 3 | 543 yards, par 5

Hole 3 is a long par 5 with water on the right that I am sure takes a lot of visitors’ balls. Using my rental set, which included a nice Titleist 917 driver and wood set, I secured a decent drive to the right side of the fairway, staying out of harm’s way: the long pond on the left. Bruce had a series of mishaps, donating several balls to the water gods. From here, I got some additional distance with the Titleist 917 F2 3-wood and creamed a ball straight down the fairway, coming up short of the large trap on the right about 100 yards from the green. I was a bit concerned, as the Titleist blades were a little out of my league of play. I guess the pro thought I was a better golfer, and it took some time to get used to these irons. Fortunately, I hit a 54-degree wedge squarely on the green and secured a two-putt for par.

HOLE 7 | 394 yards, par 4

From the tee box both Bruce and I selected a little less club, as we were warned about the water in front of the green. We were not sure our tee shots remained in play, but when we continued forward we saw we were both about 90 yards from the green. Bruce showed me up, shooting a lovely chip high and to the green. My shot shanked left and into the water. This is one of the most beautifully designed holes, and I look forward to the opportunity to try making par or birdie again!

HOLE 17 | 452 yards, par 4

The Palmer Course really does not offer views along the ocean, and Hole 17 is the only time you can glimpse a spectacular beach and cliff view. This is from the back of the green, and you have to walk a few yards for the best view. But first things first: My drive off the tee box was far from stellar, coming up short but in the center. Nine bunkers dot this hole, favoring the right all the way to the green. I was safe and on the fairway but still far from the green with a gentle breeze in my face. I selected the 21-degree utility wood and made a perfect connection, flying high and just on the front edge of the slightly elevated green. As Bruce struggled up, ticking off many of the bunkers on his way, I went ahead for a selfie of the view. Two putts secured a lucky par for me.

HOLE 18 | 577 yards, par 5

A truly lovely finishing hole. We caught up to the group in front of us, the first we had seen the entire round — we played 18 holes in less than three hours, spectacular in my book. From the tee box, it is a semi-blind shot down the fairway. The hole carries straight down and then, for your approach, turns right over the pond to the green. A smaller pond on the left can also come into play from the tee box. My drive was the second-best tee shot of the day, landing in the center of the fairway in position “A.” My next shot made me think about placement, as I was sure many shots from here ended up in the water. I figured I should go for it and took aim at a scrubby tree farther down the fairway and just before the two traps in front of the green. This was also just beyond the water. I hit a near-perfect shot (I took a picture of the woods, as I might buy them!) and thought I overcooked the shot and would nestle next to the tree, but luckily I was just short, making for an easy chip to the green and a two-putt. Bruce and I shook hands; and although he had a struggle, we both enjoyed our game. I returned to the friendly clubhouse and ordered an early lunch of grilled ahi tuna and a Caesar salad. I played so quickly I did not have to rush from the resort for my afternoon appointment in Honolulu.

OCTOBER 2017

WOODS AND WETLANDS: Turtle Bay golf course PHOTO: © TURTLE BAY RESORT

Turtle Bay Resort 57-091 Kamehameha Highway Kahuku, Hawai’i 96731 tel 808 293 6000 turtlebayresort.com

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chefs

CLOSE TO NATURE Chef Marc Segarra keeps it fresh and local at Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine. BY KIMBERLY KROL

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I don’t have any specific destination in mind; however, I love the seaside. During my childhood, I used to enjoy the sea, as it was near my home. Moreover, the Mediterranean diet is healthy. My menus reflect the balance of being close to nature using lasting techniques. WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? Ferran Adrià is undoubtedly the example to follow, as he has a wide imagination and knows how to transform it into reality. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? Several chefs have influenced me, including Santi Santamaria, Josean Martínez Alija, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Rodrigo de la Calle and Paco Morales, with whom I have had the privilege of working.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? I’m inclined to prefer Thai food; however, I realize this is a big world and there are still many places to be discovered. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? As far as future trends are concerned, I feel we have to go back to health food. The times of raw fish and meats have passed, so have many others. I concentrate on using seasonal products, and in each season, a plate will be created. ABADÍA RETUERTA LEDOMAINE 47340 Sardón de Duero Valladolid, Spain tel 34 983 680 368 ledomaine.es

PHOTOS: © ABADÍA RETUERTA LEDOMAINE

LOCATED IN THE HEART of the Douro Valley, Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine is today a winery, vineyard and hotel housed in a former 12th-century monastery. Among the estate’s many gems is the culinary team behind the one Michelin-starred Refectorio, under the direction of Chef Marc Segarra. The Michelin star was obtained within three years of the restaurant’s opening. Segarra perfected his skills while training in some of the world’s most internationally renowned restaurants. In an area flush with agricultural riches, from the wines to the produce, Segarra’s creative vision incorporates tradition and local ingredients, offering two tasting menus at dinner service which vary according to the products of each season. Wines of the estate complement the cuisine. Guests of Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine can also enjoy the on-site Vinoteca, serving traditional tapas cuisine, and the seasonal Jardín del Claustro, also serving the fresh tastes of the season. Aside from wine, the estate is known for crafted Spanish foods including wine salt, pine nuts and honey products.


cruising

BORA BORA AND BEYOND Escape to the South Pacific with Paul Gauguin Cruises. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

on lizati t civi u e p r o ref e tt o wan t bay, a ca rn to h w e tu hos sa e a re ntent For t disco ruise is lik al gardens s t i and ific c s, cor h Pac ater sport Sout w en of . an Ed y beaches d n a s and WHEN PARIS STOCKBROKER and would-be painter Paul Gauguin struck out for Tahiti and the South Pacific in 1891, it marked an escape from the confines of civilization. Once he made that leap, Gauguin produced masterpieces on canvas that captured OUT TO SEA: the essence of a tropical paradise. Today, cruise passengers can enter Polynesian entertainers (left), and that same magical world aboard the aptly named m/s Paul Gauguin, m/s Paul Gauguin in immersing themselves in the exotic cultures and landscapes that Bora Bora (right) have mesmerized art lovers for more than a century. PHOTOS: © PAUL The m/s Paul Gauguin is at one with the translucent lagoons GAUGUIN CRUISES and sharply etched, verdant archipelagoes of the region. If Paul Gauguin’s first residence was a humble bamboo hut, modern escapists now have a choice of swank staterooms on Paul Gauguin Cruises’ boutique vessel, specially designed and outfitted for South Pacific cruising. The ship is intimate (just 332 passengers) and generously staffed (217 crew). There’s a twin focus on Polynesian culture (with expert speakers, special guests and indigenous performers) and on water sports (with scuba diving, snorkeling and a retractable platform for kayaking, paddle boarding and windsurfing). The Gauguin is one of the few ships in the world to offer onboard scuba certification and a resident dive team. Full fare covers round-trip air travel from Los Angeles, all shipboard gratuities, a full range of complimentary beverages, 24-hour in-cabin dining, world-class meals and access to a private beach on Bora Bora and a private island near Tahiti. One of Paul Gauguin Cruises’ best introductions to this remote domain is its 12-night Fiji, Tonga, Cook & Society Islands cruise, which we booked in June. The Gauguin proved a surprisingly spa-

cious small ship, truly of luxury class, offering a pool, casino, spa, fitness center, theater and internet center, along with three fine open-seating restaurants and gourmet menus devised by noted Paris chef Jean-Pierre Vigato. In addition to magicians, a classical musician and a range of experts, we were entertained and informed by seven resident Polynesian performers and craft instructors. A special guest was renowned ocean environmentalist Jean-Michel Cousteau, who talked about his family’s pioneering undersea explorations, illustrated with rare films and videos. Our itinerary spanned four island nations: Fiji, Tonga, the Cook Islands and finally French Polynesia, home to stunning Bora Bora, Moorea and Tahiti. It was a formidable navigation through many cultures and ports, consuming more than 2,000 nautical miles. Perhaps the most breathtaking landings were the final few, which included a morning snorkeling with stingrays and lemon sharks in the waters of Bora Bora, a circle tour of mountainous Moorea and a complete day of leisure on Motu Mahana, the Gauguin’s tiny private islet in the Cook Islands. Here the sun chairs, barbecue and floating bar awaited our arrival, and kayaks and snorkeling gear were always close at hand. For travelers seeking to follow Paul Gauguin’s escape route, this cruise through a seabound paradise is nothing short of extraordinary — carefree yet scintillating, mysterious yet deeply familiar, a voyage through a South Pacific Shangri-La of white sands and diaphanous waters startled back to life as our ship shifted from culture to culture, isle to isle and beach to beach.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Starting Point Escape to the charm of Fiesta Americana Hermosillo. IN HERMOSILLO SONORA, one of northern Mexico’s most important cities with significant economic and cultural development, you find Fiesta Americana Hermosillo. The strategic location of this hotel makes it the perfect starting point for visits to the local historic sites to discover the charm of the old missions and wonder at the beaches bathed by the Sea of Cortez, such as San Carlos, Nuevo Guaymas and Bahia de Kino, where you can savor fresh seafood. This completely renewed hotel offers the perfect

refuge after a day out, with its comfortable rooms designed solely and exclusively to lavish rest and relaxation on guests. Fiesta Americana Hermosillo has its own way of spoiling you: sample the restaurant’s specialties; be seduced by the aroma of coffee; lose yourself in a friendly chat at the Lobby Bar; have a refreshing swim in the pool; or enjoy a game of tennis. No matter the reason for your stay, we will be glad to have you with us. Stay with great moments, stay with Fiesta Americana Hermosillo.



airline update | UNITED AIRLINES

Positive Direction United Airlines rolls out new policies, aircraft and routes. BY KARIN LEPERI GOOD TO GO: United Polaris

PHOTO: © UNITED AIRLINES

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BY ANY REASONABLE STANDARD of measure, United Airlines has had a challenging year public relations-wise. From a high-profile leggings incident, deceased giant rabbit and a woman flying 3,000 miles in the wrong direction to the forcible removal of a passenger refusing to vacate his seat, the resulting negative press and public reaction caused United to re-evaluate its corporate culture and values. According to CEO Oscar Munoz, “We are in the process of rolling out a number of new policies to help improve the customer experience. Beginning this year, United will empower its employees to resolve customer service issues in the moment. For example, should a customer have to move seats to allow a family to sit together, United flight attendants and gate agents can proactively compensate customers (with mileage, credit for future flights or other forms of compensation).”

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OCTOBER 2017

United implemented other changes in the last year and a half that will broadly appeal to its customer base. These include the reintroduction of free snacks on board flights and the availability of enhanced and expanded meals on longer routes. Expect expanded WiFi capability and reliability across the consolidated fleet. Additionally, United fully redesigned security checkpoints at Newark Liberty and Chicago O’Hare airports to modernize and facilitate the airport screening experience for travelers, and it is moving its fleet from smaller to larger regional jets and mainline aircraft on some routes. ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING debuts for 2017 is United Airline’s Polaris business class. Designed to set it apart from competitors, United Polaris is a reinvention of the airline’s international premium cabin travel experience, offering elevated comfort and


service from lounge to landing for a restful night’s sleep in the air. “Our focus as we developed the United Polaris experience was on providing our international travelers with what they’ve asked for: better sleep in the sky,” said Jonathan Guerin, senior public relations manager and spokesman, United Airlines. “Features include exclusive United Polaris lounges with new rest spaces and highend pre-flight dining options; a custom-designed personal onboard suite with added privacy, comfort and convenience; sleep-focused amenities including custom Saks Fifth Avenue luxury bedding and spa-quality Cowshed products from Soho House & Co; and reimagined dining options created in partnership with chefs from The Trotter Project.” United takes great pride in the new Polaris class, as it carries many “first” or “best in class” accolades. “For example, we are the only U.S. carrier with dedicated business-class lounges,” explained Guerin. Business-class travelers on transcontinental flights will also see upgrades such as lie-flat seat beds with duvets and hot towel service, while Economy Plus passengers will receive complimentary hot meals that include entrée, dessert and fruit along with no-cost alcoholic beverages. Mark Krolick, vice president of marketing, United, expects the new transcontinental service to provide the same level of quality previously reserved for international flights. OCTOBER 2017

PERSONAL CARE:

Polaris Lounge day bed and shower PHOTO: © UNITED AIRLINES

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TEMPTING TREATS:

Dessert cart and Polaris seating with Saks Fifth Avenue bedding PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES

As of July 1, economy passengers can purchase UNO’s deep-dish pizza on U.S. flights of more than 3.5 hours and on United flights from the United States to Canada, Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean. The pizza sells for $9.99 and features spinach, garlic and cheese on a deep-dish crust. Other selections from United’s Bistro on Board menu include a protein bowl, breakfast flatbread, a Thai-style chicken ciabatta sandwich and tapas box. UNITED AIRLINES AND United Express operate approximately 4,500 flights a day to 337 airports across five continents, and the carrier continues to expand its network. New international routes include Newark to Buenos Aires (EZE) as well as San Francisco (SFO) to Munich (MUC). In June United announced an increase of service on 11 routes between the continental United States and Hawai’i, offering more flights between the mainland and the Hawai’ian Islands than any other carrier. Beginning Dec. 20, United will increase service from its hubs in Chicago (ORD), Denver (DEN), Los Angeles (LAX) and San Francisco to Hawai’i. Additional new domestic service includes Denver to Columbia, Mo. (COU) and San Luis Obispo (SBP); Newark to Sacramento (SMF); and Houston (IAH) to Springfield, Mo. (SGF). New routes will connect Chicago with Charlottesville, Va. (CHO); Cham-

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paign/Urbana, Ill. (CMI); Columbia; Reno (RNO); Rochester, Minn. (RST); and Spokane, Wash. (GEG). Also look for new service from San Francisco to Cincinnati (CVG), Detroit (DTW), Spokane, Santa Rosa (STS) and Hartford (BDL). UNITED CURRENTLY OPERATES 743 mainline aircraft in the fleet, including 32 Boeing Dreamliner 787-8 and 787-9 aircraft. On June 20, at the 2017 Paris Air Show, Boeing and United Airlines announced United would become the largest single Boeing 737 MAX 10 customer in the world. The agreement converts 100 of United’s 737 MAX orders into 737 MAX 10s, with the carrier taking delivery in late 2020. Since United has flown nearly every version of the Boeing 737 produced, the new 737 MAX 10 adds to a legacy of highly successful aircraft. The Airbus A320 family (A319 and A320) is being outfitted with new first-class seats as well as power outlets to seats in United First and Economy Plus. The Boeing 737 NextGeneration aircraft are being retrofitted with a slimline seat that will increase the total number of seats in economy. Split scimitar winglets are also being installed on all 737-800s. Other significant changes include the planned retirement of the entire United fleet of 17 Boeing 747-400s by the end of this year. The


Boeing 757-300 is scheduled to receive new first-class seats, new slimline seats and new cabin décor during the second half of 2017. The Boeing 767-300ER expects to install the new United Polaris hard product in 2017 on the three-class version. This marks Global First phasing out to the new United Polaris. United also expects to place into service 14 Boeing 777-300ER by the end of 2017. The 777-300ER is the first to feature the new United Polaris in business class. As the North American launch customer for the 787-10, United expects to begin taking delivery of the new aircraft in 2018. LET’S FACE IT: Traveling is stressful, and despite best efforts, sometimes personal items are misplaced, forgotten or simply lost. In my case, I became a distracted passenger on a United Airlines flight from Houston to Albuquerque as I engaged in friendly conversation with the good-looking man sitting next to me. I simply forgot about my cellphone tucked neatly in the seatback pocket in front of me and was almost home when I realized my mistake. Unfortunately, personal items either left or lost on board are at the mercy and good graces of whoever finds it next. It was too late for me to return to the airport since the plane was turned around for another flight. My hope was that the next passenger might be a good Samaritan and turn it in to the flight crew, who hopefully would turn

it in to their lost and found department. I expected the worst yet hoped for the best. The following afternoon I received an unexpected call from Kathy Witt in United’s Lost and Found in Houston. Apparently, a crew member handed over my phone, whereupon Witt diligently tracked leads to find the owner. She checked if I had a passenger profile. As a frequent flyer I did, providing necessary contact information for the return of my phone. Regrettably, the type of exceptional customer service I experienced doesn’t usually make the news, though negative ones often do. That is why when we encounter airline employees taking the extra effort to make travel more pleasant, it should be acknowledged. With outstanding employees like customer service representative Kathy Witt in Houston, United will thrive. “As a diverse airline, we are all growing and listening to our customers, employees and management daily. And as long as we recognize and respect cultural differences, we are going in the right direction,” said Witt. “We expect nothing less than to be the best airline in the country if we follow these basic guidelines.” As for the future of United Airlines: “I would like for United Airlines to be the people’s choice airline, continually striving for excellence,” noted Witt. “There are no setbacks, only lessons.”

OCTOBER 2017

FLIGHTS OF FANCY:

Polaris onboard shrimp appetizer, Cowshed amenity kit and sleep amenities PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES

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hotel update | WYNDHAM

Way To Grow As it expands, Wyndham Hotel Group brings more choices to travelers. BY MARK CHESNUT

LUXURY AND STYLE:

Wyndham Chongqing Yuelai PHOTO: © WYNDHAM WORLDWIDE

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WITH AN EXPANDING ROSTER of brands, an array of new properties and a revamped rewards program, you could easily say Wyndham Worldwide is in growth mode. Wyndham Hotel Group’s multipronged strategy strives to give travelers more choices. In June the company launched its 19th brand, aimed at upper midscale and upscale travelers: The Trademark Hotel Collection. Designed to appeal to independent hotel owners looking to maintain their own style, Trademark has more than 50 hotels in its pipeline, including existing and new-build properties in urban destinations. “Trademark isn’t just another brand; it’s a rally cry for independent entrepreneurs who aren’t afraid to make their own mark,” said Lisa Checchio, vice president of brand marketing and insights, Wyndham Hotel Group. Trademark isn’t the only new name to enter the Wyndham portfolio. In late

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OCTOBER 2017

2016 the company acquired Buenos Aires-based Fen Hotels, adding two brands — Esplendor Boutique Hotels and Dazzler Hotels — in addition to 26 management contracts in Latin America and the United States. Among its newest partnerships, Wyndham inked a deal this year with Zeus International, a Greek hotel management and consulting company. The agreement calls for the development of 20 hotels over the next 10 years in four European nations. The two companies already partnered to open Wyndham Grand Athens in December 2016. “Our new development partnership with Zeus International builds on the success we’ve had with the introduction of Wyndham Grand Athens, ensuring more of our brands become ubiquitous across Greece,” said Geoff Ballotti, president and CEO, Wyndham Hotel Group. “In addition, the hotel management expertise Zeus has in key markets across Eastern Europe will help us grow the presence of our


brands in Romania, Bulgaria and Cyprus.” Wyndham Rewards, the company’s loyalty program, continues to evolve. Recently, more than 17,000 condominiums and homes joined the Wyndham Rewards portfolio, allowing loyalty program members to choose from more than 25,000 hotels, condos and homes around the planet. The ability to earn points on stays started in summer 2017, and new options are added as new properties come online. To further expand the program’s appeal, Wyndham unveiled a new loyalty partnership with Caesars Entertainment in June. “For the last two years, we’ve been unrelenting in our efforts to build the world’s best rewards program, applying a laser-like focus to help our members experience travel where and how they want,” said Noah Brodsky, senior vice president of loyalty and engagement, Wyndham Hotel Group. “Whether it’s a hotel, a condo, a vacation home or now, a world-class resort like Caesars Palace, no other program offers their members the breadth, the simplicity or the generosity of Wyndham Rewards.”

BAYMONT INN & SUITES Demographic: Midscale business and leisure travelers Offerings: With more than 400 properties in the United States, Canada and Mexico, this limited-service brand offers free breakfast and free WiFi. Some locations have fitness rooms and pools. Highlight: The Baymont Inn & Suites Atlantic City Madison, near the Atlantic City Convention Center and the boardwalk, has a 100-person meeting and event room.

DAYS INN Demographic: Economy to upper midscale business and leisure travelers Offerings: Nearly 1,800 properties in North America, Central and South America, Asia, Europe and the Middle East. Properties include free breakfast and free WiFi plus a fitness center or access to beaches or pools. Some have restaurants, bars and meeting space. Highlight: The Days Hotel & Suites Jakarta Airport, the brand’s first property in Indonesia, opened in 2016 with an all-day restaurant, a lobby lounge and bar, eight meeting rooms, a rooftop pool and spa, and free airport shuttle service.

DAZZLER HOTELS AND ESPLENDOR BOUTIQUE HOTELS

HAWTHORN SUITES BY WYNDHAM

Demographic: Upper midscale and lower upscale business and leisure

modations

Dazzler Colonia (top), and Dolce CampoReal Lisboa (bottom)

travelers

Offerings: Located in the United States, United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain and Nigeria, each property offers suites with kitchens, free WiFi, guest

PHOTOS: © WYNDHAM

Offerings: Dazzler features 15 hotels in 11 cities with a style that blends function and comfort. The 2018 opening of the Esplendor Fangio Balcarce in

laundry, business services, free hot breakfast buffet and evening social hours.

Argentina will mark the 15th Esplendor hotel in Latin America and the United

Some hotels allow pets and have meeting and fitness facilities and swimming

States.

pools.

Highlight: The Esplendor Buenos Aires has free WiFi, an art gallery, business

Highlight: In Kentucky, the Hawthorn Suites by Wyndham Louisville North

center, meeting rooms and a recreation room with pool table.

features barbecue grills, family and oversized rooms and an outdoor swimming

DOLCE HOTELS AND RESORTS

POOLSIDE:

Demographic: Business and leisure travelers in need of extended-stay accom-

WORLDWIDE

pool and is close to corporate offices including Humana, Amazon and UPS.

Demographic: Upper upscale business and leisure travelers

HOWARD JOHNSON

Offerings: More than a dozen properties in urban and resort locations in

Demographic: Value-conscious families

North America and Europe offer extensive meeting and conference facilities.

Offerings: A guestroom redesign brings midcentury style back to the brand,

Highlight: Silverado Resort and Spa, Napa offers golf, tennis, spa services

with nearly 400 hotels in 13 countries.

and extensive meeting and event space including Mansion Gardens, an

Highlight: The Howard Johnson Inn Mystic is close to Connecticut’s Mystic

18,000-square-foot indoor/outdoor venue with a small vineyard.

Aquarium and features a fitness center, free WiFi, bicycle rental, business center, restaurant and indoor pool.

OCTOBER 2017

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KNIGHTS INN Demographic: Budget road travelers Offerings: Nearly 400 properties in North America, most near major highways. Some offer free continental breakfast. Highlight: The Knights Inn Los Angeles Central/Convention Center Area, two miles from the convention center, offers free breakfast.

MICROTEL INN & SUITES BY WYNDHAM Demographic: Budget-minded travelers Offerings: With more than 300 properties in the United States, Canada, Mexico and the Philippines, each offers free breakfast, free WiFi and (in the United States) free local and long-distance calls. Highlight: Microtel Inn & Suites by Wyndham Toluca, in Mexico, has 288 square feet of meeting space and is half a mile from the Toluca airport.

RAMADA Demographic: Midscale and upper midscale business and leisure travelers Offerings: Ramada operates more than 850 hotels; most feature on-site restaurant, lounge or free continental breakfast plus meeting rooms, business services, fitness facilities and WiFi. Brands include Ramada Plaza, near city centers and major airports; Ramada, the core offering; Ramada Hotel & Suites in North America and Europe; Ramada Resort, catering to leisure travelers; and Ramada Encore, midscale hotels in Latin America, Europe and Asia. Highlight: The Ramada Iskenderun, near the beach in the Turkish city of Ä°skenderun, has indoor and outdoor swimming pools, four restaurants, a fitness center and spa and a business center with meeting space for 1,000.

Demographic: Budget-minded travelers Offerings: Free breakfast and free WiFi are hallmarks in the 2,700-plus locations in North America and 900 in China. Highlight: The Super 8 Shanghai Xu Jia Hui, in a business district about 45 minutes from the airport, has two meeting rooms for up to 100 people.

leisure travelers Offerings: Located in the United States, Canada and Mexico, Wingate offers WiFi, hot buffet breakfast and access to a fitness center and business center with printing, copying and faxing. Highlight: The Wingate by Wyndham Los Angeles International Airport LAX offers a meeting and event space.

WYNDHAM GARDEN HOTELS Demographic: Upper midscale business and leisure travelers Offerings: Free WiFi and flexible meeting space are hallmarks. A prototype introduced last year incorporates

BUSINESS AND LEISURE:

Wyndham Dubai Marina (top) and Ramada Resort Bodrum PHOTOS: Š WYNDHAM WORLDWIDE

modern architecture, functional design and an open lobby

TRAVELODGE Demographic: Families on a budget Offerings: With more than 430 locations in the United States and Canada, Travelodge provides free breakfast and free WiFi. Some offer fitness centers and pools. Highlight: The Travelodge New Orleans West Harvey has an outdoor pool, a restaurant, business center and free parking.

TRYP BY WYNDHAM Demographic: Midscale business and leisure travelers Offerings: The urban lifestyle brand has more than 110 hotels in the United States, Europe, Latin America, Asia and the Middle East and offers a fitness center and on-site dining. Highlight: Florida welcomed its first TRYP property this year, the TRYP by Wyndham Sebastian St. Augustine, featuring an outdoor pool, lobby bar, fitness center and business center.

globaltravelerusa.com

Demographic: Value-driven business and

free airport shuttle and 975 square feet of

SUPER 8

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WINGATE BY WYNDHAM

OCTOBER 2017

concept. Highlight: The Wyndham Garden Cross Lanes Charleston, near downtown Charleston, W.Va., includes an indoor/

WYNDHAM HOTELS & RESORTS

outdoor pool, a restaurant and free breakfast buffet.

Demographic: Corporate and leisure clients seeking full-

WYNDHAM GRAND

service accommodations Offerings: The 102 upscale hotels in North America, Latin

Demographic: Upper upscale business and leisure travelers

America, Asia Pacific, Europe, the Middle East and Africa

Offerings: This luxury brand offers extensive amenities like

feature free WiFi and on-site dining; business locations

spas, unique dining venues and meeting space.

feature meeting space and business and fitness centers;

Highlight: Scheduled to open in Belize next year, the

resort locations often include pools.

Wyndham Grand Ambergris Caye will have a spa, fitness

Highlight: The Wyndham Hotel Melbourne, in a popular

center, multiple restaurants and 7,000 square feet of

business district, offers studio rooms as well as one-, two-

meeting space.

and three-bedroom apartments. Hotel features include a rooftop pool, fitness center, a business center and meeting rooms.


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mice | SANTIAGO

Grand Entrance

The Santiago Convention Bureau chalks up 11,500 rooms spread out among 3- to 5-star hotels. By 2018 it estimates 13,800 rooms will be available in the city to complement 355,000 square feet of meeting and exhibition areas. Comodoro Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport (or, as you’ll stick with, Santiago takes center stage as a premier Santiago International Airport) serves as the long-haul hub into the Chilean capital, business destination. BY JOE BAUR with a number of international direct connections and 20 national and international airlines serving 16 million annual passengers. In fact, this year British Airways SANTIAGO, CHILE: This part of the world simply has an air launched its first direct flight from London Heathrow to Santiago — a nearly 15-hour of remoteness. The next closest capital, Buenos Aires, lies more journey that makes it the airline’s longest route. Luckily for travelers coming from far than 900 miles away. Santiago itself is merely 70 miles from and wide, it’s not much farther into the city center — only about 18 minutes with a cab or Uber, setting you back just $18. the Pacific Ocean, before the The appeal of Santiago as a business destinacontinent ends and you’re heading The appeal of Santiago as a tion is something the country’s North American to New Zealand. business destination is something counterparts noticed for some time. After all, business The point is, not to belabor it, travelers from the United States have made the most but Santiago is most likely far from the country’s North American trips to Santiago for conventions and conferences, wherever you’re coming from. counterparts noticed for some time. averaging seven nights and spending approximately But if you’ve traveled to Western $1,236 per traveler. Europe, there’s an air of familiarity Of course, the city is also a regional draw. This past June, Santiago hosted to the Chilean capital: You’ll find a city easy to navigate by foot, FIEXPO (The Latin American & Caribbean Meetings and Incentives Exhibition), and you’ll often be surrounded by impressive architecture, markets attracting more than 16 Latin American countries into the city. Santiago will remain and the occasional pedestrian-only thoroughfare. the host until 2019. Best of all for the business traveler, Santiago upped the ante FIEXPO is held at CasaPiedra on the northeastern edge of the city. CasaPiedra over the past decade with substantial investments in transportation features rooms with different dimensions and characteristics, with a Gran Salón and hotel infrastructure to make the trip more than worthwhile.

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MEMORABLE MEETINGS: The skyline of Santiago (top), and Sheraton Santiago Hotel and Convention Center's San Cristobal Meeting Room (middle) and Boardroom (bottom)

PHOTOS: © SARA WINTER | DREAMSTIME, © SHERATON SANTIAGO HOTEL AND CONVENTION CENTER

UNIQUE VENUES Casa Almarza, a mid-19th-century mansion, sits just south of Parque de los Reyes along the Mapocho River in the Balmaceda neighborhood. Ownership changed hands several times throughout the century, and the passing time took its toll on the property, leaving it in a deplorable state by the end of the millennium. Jaime Almarza Daydi acquired the mansion with the mission to save and restore it. That mission was accomplished thanks to a private initiative that sought to preserve the architectural style while enhancing original elements.

serving as the anchor. Spaces in this room can expand from 322 to nearly 16,000 square feet to allow for an incredible spectrum of possibilities from small, private events to large-scale shows. The Santiago Business & Conference Center recently opened in Parque Titanium with almost 40,000 square feet of available space and easy access from two metro stations: El Golf and Tobalaba. This boom in convention business brought new investments in lodging infrastructure. Over the past three years, the city saw $240 million spent on 18 new hotels. This is on top of the sensational growth of the past decade, when prestigious chains like Hilton, Holiday Inn and Marriott came into the country. As of August, Santiago is the first city in all of South America to have a Mandarin Oriental hotel. Sheraton Santiago Hotel and Convention Center, the country’s largest hotel meeting facility, provides another popular option, with 386 guestrooms and 15 meeting spaces, the largest of which measures 7,500 square feet. The Sheraton advertises a capacity of up to 1,500 or more. This all backs up Mercer’s recent ranking putting Santiago at the top of the pack for urban infrastructure in Latin America. Business Destinations followed up with similar good news, calling Santiago the best city for business travel in Latin America. In other words, Santiago is well-prepared to handle your MICE needs.

Club Militar hosts a number of events, from wedding ceremonies and baptisms to seminars and business conferences. Rooms are available to welcome a variety of crowd sizes from 10 to 450, including garden and pool venues. The restaurant boasts a diverse menu, blending Chilean national favorites with international cuisine. It’s been more than a century since a group of Spaniards found what remains today as Círculo Español de Santiago. The group of Spaniards first met to aid victims of a flood in Murcia and shortly thereafter started the institution. No surprise, a palpable Spanish flair welcomes everyone from government dignitaries to the average citizen.

OCTOBER 2017

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television, but French (at least in the city) is the de facto language in social settings, while Luxembourgish, a linguistic mix of French and German, is spoken at home. English is taught in schools starting at age 14, and you’ll even hear a The city of contrasts captivates with old and new, local and fair bit of Spanish and Dutch (those are your tourists), so many Luxembourgers learn those languages, as well. international. by JoE bAUR This international flair juxtaposes with a strong national identity that historically refused to be swallowed up by QUAINT AND The firsT Thing To impress any traveler to the City of Luxembourg is Germany and recently declined to make citizenship easier QUIET: the history, so much so that locals joke a 15th-century building is practically by lessening the Luxembourgish language requirement. It Grund, with a view modern. Indeed, this highly internationof a bridge over the may be a small country, but it is very Alzette River al city where foreign nationals account much its own country. Walking the cobblestone streets of PhoTo: © REINhARDT | for nearly two-thirds of the population Business travelers visiting the DREAmsTImE.com grund after an evening rain feels has as much to offer a Europhile traveler convention center find they’re not as any other more-traveled destination attending just another large event practically Parisian, except you’ll be on the continent. space. Luxembourg does business at hard-pressed to spot the tourists. Walking the cobblestone streets of the European Convention Center Grund after an evening rain feels pracLuxembourg in the Kirchberg neightically Parisian, except you’ll be hard-pressed to spot the tourists. Of course, borhood overlooking the historic city. The Meliá Luxemit doesn’t hurt that French is one of the country’s three national languages. bourg hotel sits right next to the convention center, making Luxembourgers start off learning to write German, and they watch German it an easy choice for visitors on business. Another option is

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DETROIT p. 60 GÖTEBORG p. 54 LUXEMBOURG p. 62 RIBERA DEL DUERO p. 74 ST. PETERSBURG p. 64 SÃO PAULO p. 66 TANZANIA p. 72

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ing travel t u o b sa in ation t thing n s i e t b s e e f th or d y maj One o h n a r o , Englis y ’ a s l c a a c r e lo to Bo e s, is th e n i p p e of th ili n h o P s i e h t lish y. Eng s. c n e i c i nguage a l prof l a n io y’s nat r t n u o c

BUSINESS destinations

52

SHANGHAI

58

ATLANTA

60

HYDERABAD

62

LISBON

PHOTOS: © JACKMALIPAN | DREAMSTIME, © KLIGHTS | DREAMSTIME

LEISURE destinations

64

AUCKLAND

66

ABU DHABI

70

ICELAND

72

PHILIPPINES


destination one | SHANGHAI

Sophisticated Shanghai The modern business city embraces East and West while building for the future. BY KARIN LEPERI

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FEW CITIES IN THE WORLD evoke the degree of mystique, glamour, contrast and storied history as Shanghai does. In fact, from about 1850 to 1920, the term “shanghai” was considered a shady Western term associated with young men who were plastered with liquor and opium. During their stupor, they would be shanghaied into duty on many of the under-staffed merchant ships sailing from the West Coast of America to the booming Asian trade in Shanghai. Today Shanghai is the most populous city proper in the world, with more than 24 million people. It even has a

ALL AGLOW: Shanghai at night PHOTO: © IAKOV KALININ | DREAMSTIME


MODERN AND TRADITIONAL:

LODGING

Shanghai container terminal (above), and Yuyuan District (right)

FAIRMONT PEACE HOTEL Once a favorite haunt of Charlie Chaplin and other celebrities, its location next to the Bund and its Old Jazz Band draw guests looking for Art Deco charm. One of Shanghai’s best values.

PHOTOS: © CHUYU | DREAMSTIME, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens must obtain a visa prior to arrival and have a passport with at least six months’ validity remaining. The lack of either will result in a fine and immediate deportation. A new offering is the 10-year multiple entry visa, useful for repeated travel or trips to Hong Kong or Macau with returns to China. You must have a valid visa to exit China, and you must leave China before the expiration of the listed duration of stay.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Mandarin

20 Nanjing E. Road $$$$

Disneyland, just opened in 2016. Besides being a global financial center and transport hub, the sprawling metropolis also boasts the world’s busiest container port. This strategically positions Shanghai as China’s ongoing business investment with the rest of the world. Why is Shanghai thriving? According to Daniel R. Joseph, founder, The China Learning Curve, “From the beginning of its development, Shanghai has been a priority for the Chinese government. Many liberalization measures leading to China’s growth either start in Shanghai or are introduced to Shanghai prior to the rest of the country. Aside from helping Shanghai grow, this position makes Shanghai a target area for foreign investment. For Shanghai to continue to develop, China needs to continue to liberalize the

JW MARRIOTT HOTEL SHANGHAI One of the first ultra-high hotels to open in the city, the JW offers an excellent location, with museums and theaters within walking distance. Check out the 60th-floor library for a secret entrance to a balcony. 399 Nanjing W. Road $$$$ THE PORTMAN RITZ-CARLTON Located in the center of Shanghai’s sophisticated shopping street, The Ritz-Carlton attracts local and expat business guests. Shanghai Centre, 1376 Nanjing W. Road $$$$$

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STREETS AND ALLEYS: Office skyscrapers of Pudong (above), and Tianzifang arts and crafts enclave (left) PHOTOS: © VITALYEDUSH | DREAMSTIME, © GUBGIB | DREAMSTIME

economy. More free market rules will be good for all of China and especially Shanghai, which will benefit from service industries and the financial sector.” A scintillating blend of East and West along with modernity and tradition, Shanghai is defined by a sweet juxtaposition of opposites. From the ultra-modern skyscraper view of the Pudong District as seen from the historic Bund to the yesteryear glory of the French Concession, its colonial past contrasts starkly with the financial optimism of China’s plans for Shanghai as a leading business center not only of China but also of the world.

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CHECKING IN WITH DANIEL R. JOSEPH Founder, The China Learning Curve; Consultant, Author and Award-Winning Filmmaker

What’s going on politically and economically in Shanghai? There are three trends impacting Shanghai. The first is the new free trade zone, the second is financial globalization, and the third is the rise of the service sector. The free trade zone is new, free market-oriented rights and rules for companies. It’s the most significant step currently in China’s ongoing economic liberalization program, and Shanghai was given one of the first of three free trade zones established in the last few years, providing additional incentives for foreign companies to locate in China. Shanghai is China’s financial center; financial deregulation and globalization is a priority for the Chinese government. As that continues, the financial sector will grow and develop, and Shanghai will benefit the most. It’s possible in the long term Shanghai will replace Hong Kong as the financial center. And, having accomplished industrialization, China is now moving to the next phase of development with a focus on the consumer and service sector. Because Shanghai is so large and has an advanced workforce, it is attractive for service-oriented companies to locate in China. If China’s economy continues to develop, all three of these trends will progress and benefit Shanghai tremendously. What are the strongest businesses and industries? As the financial center, Shanghai has a large concentration of state-owned enterprises. Many are industrial and automotive. It also has a thriving entrepreneurial

and foreign investment sector. It actually has a diverse economic base.

JUST THE FACTS

How will new development affect business and investment opportunities? Many of the rules in the free trade zone have been introduced gradually. The impact has not been huge, yet. If China continues to make it easier to do business in the Shanghai free trade zone, it should have a huge impact on Shanghai over the long term. Why do people, especially business travelers, visit Shanghai? Shanghai is China’s most international city. It’s a wonderful combination of history and modernity — there is old Shanghai, particularly interesting, but you have the most modern parts of China available as well. It’s a fantastic mixture of the past and present for anyone who wants to get an idea of what China is all about. Shanghai is the most international of all of China’s cities, so it’s often the easiest to access. It has everything a business traveler needs, with a wealth and variety of hotels, restaurants and resources that make doing business there easy. What are some common misconceptions about doing business in Shanghai? In terms of China’s general business environment, it’s a bit of a mixed economy, part government-controlled and part free market, and that can be tricky for people to understand initially. There are cultural differences; you need to take your time and work through them. For example, for a number of reasons, building trust in personal relationships is more challenging in China, but that effort is necessary to build a successful business.

Time zone: GMT +8 Phone code: Country code: 86 City code: 21 Currency: Renminbi Key industries: Finance, electronics and information technology, cars, power and large-scale electromechanical equipment, petrochemicals, high-grade steel and biopharmaceutical products. Retail luxury goods are on the rise.

DINING

M ON THE BUND M on the Bund serves modern European and Middle Eastern dishes in a trendy yet glamorous setting. 20 Guangdong Road, Five on the Bund, 7th Floor $$$$ MR & MRS BUND Named one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2013, creative French dishes abound, with a value late-night, twocourse set menu offered after 11 p.m. 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, 6th Floor $$$$ NANXIANG STEAMED BUN RESTAURANT At Shanghai’s most famous dumpling restaurant, a required stop for serious foodies, must-haves include the Shanghai soup dim sum or soup-in-a-bun. For those perplexed how to eat it, it comes with a straw for sipping.

ainese r: Shangh e iv r ndarin. d i x ur ta from Ma o y e g d a n u a g t n s r distinct la sn’t unde ers. that is a e who doe n e o s e ly in n h o rin speak C a e f h d t o n a h ’t c n M n e r a o r You a elligible t ancient b ercent int f Wu, an p o 0 t c 5 le t u ia o is a d is only ab nghainese a h S , t c a In f

85 Yuyuan Road $$ ARCHITECTURAL ARRAY: Pudong District skyline as seen from the Bund PHOTO: © YUNHAO ZHANG | DREAMSTIME

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CITY OF CONTRASTS: The Oriental Pearl TV Tower (top left), Yuyuan Garden (top right), and The Shanghai Museum (bottom) PHOTOS: © SUN HING YEUNG | DREAMSTIME, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME, © MILOSK50 | DREAMSTIME

INFO TO GO

Shanghai boasts two commercial airports: Hongqiao International and the modern Pudong International, where most international flights arrive. The airport lies about 20 miles east-southeast of Shanghai. Taxis from the airport to city center cost approximately 170 RMB ($12). Pudong International Airport was built on reclaimed tideland that once harbored fish farms. The building, designed by French architect Paul Andreu, resembles a seagull in flight, representing the soaring metropolis of Shanghai.

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DIVERSIONS

With an abundance of engaging and diverse excursions situated in and around Shanghai, it can be difficult to choose what to do. Here are five of the best: One of the most attractive cityscapes lies along the curve of the Bund promenade, where panoramic views of skyscrapers dominate the horizon. Not only do photographers flock here — it seems the whole city does, too. From here you can see 26 buildings, all constructed in various architectural styles including Gothic, Baroque, Romanesque, Classical and Renaissance. With this montage of Western-inspired international styles, the skyline is one-of-a-kind in the world. The Oriental Pearl TV Tower is said to look like twin dragons playing with pearls. Standing at about 1,535 feet high, it is China’s second-tallest TV and radio tower while ranking as the sixth-tallest in the world. Try the endless evening buffet at the top of the tower for a commanding bird’s-eye view of the city below. (Food choices completely wrap around the tower on a rotating platform.) Be forewarned: You are up so high you might find yourself amid low-lying clouds. A classical garden filled with rockeries, ponds and

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cloisters, the Yuyuan Garden was completed by a Ming Dynasty government officer in 1577. Since then it has undergone many changes. Today it remains a popular place for strolling, with a nearby bazaar offering sundry items for sale. Be sure to bargain. Like a Western enclave with Asian surroundings, a favorite area of the city is the former French Concession, where French architecture and villa-lined streets rule the day. Take time out at one of the outdoor-seating cafés to people-watch while sipping a beer or wine. A visit to the Shanghai Museum in People’s Square immerses you in Chinese culture, art and antiquities. With more than 1 million pieces in its collection, the museum spans 21 categories to include bronzes, ceramics, calligraphy, painting, jade and ivory works, bamboo and lacquer wares, oracle bones, seals, coins and ethnic minority collections. Expect to find an excellent representation of ceramic pieces from the Qing Dynasty. With a square base and an attached round top with arches, the building itself is an architectural curiosity that symbolically reflects heaven and Earth.



stateside | ATLANTA

Young at Heart Atlanta pulses with vibrancy and innovation. BY SHARON KING HOGE

CENTER OF ACTIVITY: Centennial Olympic Park

PHOTO: © F11PHOTO | DREAMSTIME

ple an sam c s r o Visit t fferen 60 di vors nal fla o i t a n inter at drink t f o s of the f orld o the W eum. a mus l o C Coca 58

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“ATLANTA IS THE BEST IN THE U.S. ... a renowned business climate with an unrivaled quality of living.” City advocates don’t bother to equivocate, and numerous accolades back up their claims: ranked the No. 1 business state in the United States; listed among Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Places to Travel; cited by Travel + Leisure among America’s “most charming,” “friendliest” and “most cultured” cities. Technically a vast region of 8,376 square miles encompassing 29 counties and 242 neighborhoods, metropolitan Atlanta is an alpha world city with a $270 billion gross domestic product and rated eighth in America for its impact on commerce, research finance, technology, media, art and entertainment. More Fortune 500 companies operate in

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the city’s business-friendly environment than in Dallas and Nashville combined. Delta Air Lines, Home Depot, ATT, UPS, Marriott and Publix are among the top 10 regional employers. Within the last two years, Honeywell, Adidas, NCR and GE installed major new operations in the area, creating thousands of jobs. One of the fastest-growing hightech urban centers in the nation, Atlanta leads innovation and industry growth, becoming a world-class hub for tech design, implementation and innovation. Supporting business interaction is the convenient Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, serving 110 million passengers annually and “connecting more people than any other airport in the world,” with 80 percent of the U.S. population within a two-hour flight. Priding itself on “a collaborative hospitality community that is dedicated to making every meeting a success,” the Atlanta Convention and Visitors Bureau teams with local vendors of the city’s $15 billion hospitality industry to create a seamless experience for 51 million annual visitors to the Georgia World Congress Center. Already the nation’s fourth-largest convention facility, it is currently expanding to equal a million square feet of contiguous meeting space in walkable Downtown among thriving music venues and restaurants. While much of America lags, with no long-range plans to tackle decaying infrastructure and decline, Atlanta teems with vivacity and


vision. Burned to the ground by Gen. Sherman’s forces, the city emerged from the Civil War aware that cooperation was necessary for recovery, and that legacy remains with Chamber of Commerce official Gregg Simon noting “the state and city work hand in glove with the Chamber and business for the good of the area.” Jump-started by construction projects to improve parks, sporting venues and transit structure for the 1996 Olympic Games, the city transformed its Atlantic Station section and the defunct Atlantic Steel Mill into vibrant residential and entertainment urban hubs. Subsequent master plans and projects include the $2.8 billion Atlanta BeltLine, reversing bad planning by circling the city with a 22-mile network of parks, trails and transit to connect and spur development in 45 neighborhoods. A pending project, the $300 million “Stitch,” proposes covering a section of the Interstate with concrete decking to override the no-man’s-land of parking lots and traffic lanes which divides Downtown and Midtown, creating 14 new acres for hotels, restaurants and green space. Fostering development, Chamber of Commerce programs attract new firms, assist young companies and help identify businessto-business collaborations. To expand the workforce, millennials are steered to a dedicated website, ChooseATL, that lists job openings and cultural and network events promising young professionals the opportunity to “find your perfect neighborhood ... your dream job, your tribe, and a sense of community unlike any other ... a place where careers and culture collide.” While studies indicate the challenges the city presents to those rising from poverty, interns and graduates of the 70 local colleges are cultivated to stay on among the 75,000 new residents added to the 6.5 million population each year.

SCENIC DRIVES

Two nearby excursions take you on jaunts north to the Atlanta Braves’ new SunTrust Stadium and south to the headquarters of Porsche. Whether or not the Braves are playing, the stadium includes a whole complex of shops and cafés and the nearby indoor skydiving wind tunnel of iFLY Atlanta. Near the airport at the sports car firm’s headquarters, the Porsche Driving Experience invites visitors to take a turn behind the wheel. Farther afield, a drive on the 60-mile-long Alleghany Foothills Parkway skirts the southern edge of the Appalachians,

passing the spectacular scenery and wildlife of Chattahoochee National Forest; the Southeast’s tallest cascade, Amicalola Falls; and Georgia’s highest summit, Brasstown Bald. Almost inevitable — fiddledeedee! — is a tour through the Gone with the Wind Trail. Augmenting the City Library’s extensive collection of memorabilia illuminating the story that won an Academy Award and Pulitzer Prize, a drive takes aficionados to two museums chronicling the thrilling romance of Scarlett O’Hara and Rhett Butler. Marietta’s Gone with the Wind Museum: Scarlett on the Square and Jonesboro’s Road to Tara Museum exhibit costumes, scripts and clippings. The route passes the historic antebellum Stately Oaks Plantation and Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park, where the Confederate Army briefly thwarted Gen. Sherman’s March to the Sea.

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MAKING CONNECTIONS:

The Stitch (top), and the Georgia World Congress Center (bottom) PHOTOS: © JACOBS, © GEORGIA WORLD CONGRESS CENTER

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9–5 | HYDERABAD

High-Tech Hyderabad Entertain corporate clients in India’s innovative city. BY RICHARD NEWTON HECTIC HUB:

Shoppers and traffic weave about the busy bazaar at the Charminar. PHOTO: © SNEHITDESIGN | DREAMSTIME

mous ally fa n o i t i for Trad center g n i d ra nds, as a t diamo d n a e pearls as onc bad w a r y e r d Hy egenda o the l ond, home t r diam y o o N b Koh-i uired ly acq l . a i s r r ve cto ia contro een Vi u Q ’s in Brita

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HYDERABAD’S GREAT LEAP into the future began in the 1990s, you could say. That was when ambitious plans were initiated to create a state-of-the-art campus for IT and other emerging industries on a large site west of downtown. Twenty years on, HITEC City (as the campus became known) is a reality, helping rebrand this large, ancient city in southern India as “Cyberabad.” But you can also look much further back for the roots of innovation here. Golconda Fort, mostly in ruins now on an imposing granite hill to the south of HITEC City, was originally constructed in the 15th and 16th centuries. From the start, this formidable fortress stood at the cutting edge of communications technology, using acoustics to magical effect. Clap your hands at the entrance portico and you will

be heard in the hilltop pavilion more than half a mile away. Inside some of the surviving buildings, whispers carry from room to room. The early rulers of Hyderabad State — the Nizams — understood the power of communication. Several ornate Nizam palaces are scattered throughout the city; one, the Falaknuma Palace, has been converted into a sumptuously luxurious hotel operated by Taj Hotels, set amid 32 acres of gardens. The hotel makes the perfect base, ideal for entertaining business contacts and a peaceful retreat from the hectic madness of the city streets at day’s end. There is no better venue for a business breakfast than the Falaknuma’s Gol Bungalow terrace, with breathtaking views over the waking city. Make the most of the tranquility. The moment you leave the hotel’s manicured grounds, you plunge into the maelstrom of India’s fourth-biggest city. In keeping with Hyderabad’s aspirations as a hub of global innovation, the city invested


heavily in upgrading its transport infrastructure. A light rail network began operating in 2003, carrying almost 200,000 passengers every weekday. The road system has been modernized, with ring roads and more than 30 overpasses. One of the cheapest and most convenient ways of getting around is by three-wheel motorized rickshaw, though it’s not for the faint-hearted. Indian rules of the road tend to be improvised, and near misses are a feature of most journeys, all the more intense in the back of a rickshaw, open to the elements on both sides. However, the heart-in-mouth moments are counterbalanced by the rickshaw’s ability to dodge between stationary traffic and negotiate the maze of narrow streets in the old city, often getting you to your destination quicker than by taxi. The quirks and hassles of Indian travel used to extend to the airport, but that changed in 2008 when Hyderabad’s brand-new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport began operations. It vies with Delhi’s expensively upgraded Indira Gandhi International Airport for the crown of best airport in India. Situated south of downtown, Rajiv Gandhi International is a busy domestic hub and also offers direct flights to London Heathrow, Chicago O’Hare and many cities in Asia. Hyderabad is a city famous for its food — in particular spicy, fiery Mughlai cuisine, inherited from the medieval Mughal Empire. If you’re used to Indian curries, you’ll find plenty of local restaurants suitable for business lunches. 1857 @ Ohri’s, located beside Hussain Sagar Lake in downtown Hyderabad, offers rooftop dining in a setting inspired by the British colonial era. If you’re not a curry fan, consider one of the city’s many international restaurants. Firewater Kitchen & Bar, located at HITEC City, serves a diverse menu that includes Western, Chinese and vegetarian options. No matter how many times you alternate between old Hyderabad and HITEC City, the adjustment is always dramatic. The downtown streets present a riot of noisy chaos, Indian life at its most colorful and dynamic. And then, suddenly, you’re among broad, leafy avenues lined with tinted-glass high-rises. The contrast is symptomatic of modern India, where the 21st century coexists with sights and sounds seemingly unchanged for centuries. Hyderabad’s most important landmark is the Charminar, an active mosque with four towering minarets. Constructed in 1591, the building now sits at the center of a busy intersection, with city life revolving around it relentlessly, day and night. You haven’t truly been to Hyderabad until you’ve passed through the shadow of the Charminar. In the evening, you’re faced with the familiar dilemma for entertaining business contacts: curry or something else? One of the finest local options is Firdaus in the Taj Krishna Hotel. Open 7:30–11:45 p.m., the restaurant serves traditional Mughlai favorites under the guidance of renowned chef Nitin. Be sure to try Hyderabadi biryani, a mixed rice and meat dish, a local specialty. Via Milano, located in the Jubilee Hills district between

downtown and HITEC City, focuses primarily on pasta and pizza (as you’d expect from the name) but also serves an eclectic range of Western dishes, including English-style bangers and mash. However you plan your day in Hyderabad, you will be buffeted by India, the old and the new, the sublime and the chaotic. Retreating to a palace is the perfect antidote to culture shock, the turmoil left at the gates. Floodlit, the Taj Falaknuma Palace looms ahead, a monument to serenity. OCTOBER 2017

SERENE LUXURY:

Falaknuma Palace front entrance room PHOTO: © BEVANWARD | DREAMSTIME

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after 5 | LISBON

Stroll the Streets Lisbon abounds with views and venues for after-work amusement. BY ALLIE MOORE

EVENING OUT:

Tram 28 in the Alfama District (left), and people enjoying dinner outdoors in Calçada do Duque, with Castelo de São Jorge in the background (right) PHOTOS: © OLGACOV | DREAMSTIME, © GRETA GABAGLIO | DREAMSTIME

by formed r e p , o g Fad oundin s l u f n a mour nger solo si ya nied b a p m o acc se rtugue o P l a classic lly origina , r a t i gu e sed th expres of the w o r r o s ors of sail s e i l i fam ed on depart ys. journe s u o l i per 62

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SET ATOP SEVEN HILLS overlooking the Tagus River, Lisbon comprises peaks and valleys packed with ample opportunities for heart-capturing vistas and rousing after-sun activities. The Portuguese capital’s concentrated and well-connected central zones make it easy to zigzag across the city for a few hours of post-work amusement. Before the sun fully sets, hop on historic Tram 28 to the Alfama District, the city’s oldest, a former working-class neighborhood where a recent revival sprouted chic watering holes while retaining the spirit of the streets. Located just outside the walls of the Castelo de São Jorge, the Winebar do Castelo’s intimate tasting room serves small plates of cheese and charcuterie to complement the region’s best wines. Alfama is also one of the best places to catch fado, Portugal’s informal musical performance characterized by projected singing and an accompanying guitar. When strolling the streets, you’ll notice chalkboards advertising show times, but you’ll find the most authentic presentations at A

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Baîuca and Clube de Fado. A more raucous party scene takes place a few hours later in Bairro Alto, just west of the business district of Baixa. Tiered seating at alleyway cafés gives you a front-row seat to the barhoppers who frequent the area during the evening hours. Join them for a round at one of Bairro Alto’s bars like Cinco Lounge cocktail bar, or catch some local music at Galeria Ze Dos Bois (aka ZDB), part art gallery, part live music venue. Just north of Bairro Alto discover Chiado and Principe Real, home to Lisbon’s gay scene. For €10 (about $12), hit up Trumps, the city’s largest gay club, or stop in at Finalmente Club any day of the week for its famous drag show, which takes place at a reasonable hour of 3 a.m. Regardless of where you choose to spend your evenings, make a point to take in a drink at one of Lisbon’s miradouros, or lookout points. The Miradouro de Santa Catarina boasts stunning San Francisco-esque views over the river and the 25 de Abril Bridge and on to the statue of Cristo Rei in the distance. A café, restaurant and front lawn of the Pharmacy Museum, all of which serve beverages well into the evening, enhance this particular viewpoint’s allure.



neighborhoods | AUCKLAND

SEE THE SIGHTS:

View through fern tree rainforest from Waitakere Ranges (left), and controlled leap from Sky Tower (right) PHOTOS: © BLAGOV58 | DREAMSTIME, © PROXIMA13 | DREAMSTIME

World of Its Own Auckland balances urban chic with the wonders of nature. BY MICHELLE LYN

Auckland

New Zealand

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NESTLED ON THE NORTHERN part of New Zealand’s North Island, cosmopolitan Auckland deserves more than a passing glance. Although the jumping-off point for many tours, Auckland holds its own as an urban destination with a wide range of activities. The iconic Sky Tower, the tallest tower in the Southern Hemisphere, anchors this city positioned between two large harbors. The observation platform provides superb views of Auckland’s glitzy waterfront and Hauraki Gulf. Daredevils who prefer to take the easy way down attach themselves to a Sky Jump cable and leap off the top. Check into the lovely Hotel DeBrett, a short walk from the restaurants and bars of Viaduct Harbour. Spend half a day visiting the Auckland War Memorial Museum and then recharge by ducking into a café to put Kiwi coffee culture to the test. Sample a long black, a short black or the widely favored flat white (a double shot of espresso with velvety steamed milk instead of froth). For a memorable meal, seek out Elliott Stables, where

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rom walk f n a c , you man kland e Tas c h t u A o t n I cean ific O c a P urs. the our ho f t u o n ab Sea i

you can sample a wide range of cuisines in an epicurean village and then walk it off while shopping on nearby Queen Street. On Auckland’s west coast, explore windswept beaches and the subtropical bush-clad hills of the Waitakere Ranges. If time permits, join a cruise to Tiritiri Matangi Island out in the Hauraki Gulf and spy some of New Zealand’s most endangered birds, including the kokako and saddleback. Explore another highlight just a short ferry ride from Auckland: Waiheke Island. Beautiful beaches and a bucolic blend of forest and open farmland make for the perfect dose of nature within the city’s reach. Enjoy activities like sea kayaking, mountain biking and vineyard tours. Ananda Tours offers a Gourmet Food and Wine tour visiting some of the award-winning wineries, including Stonyridge Vineyard. Should you miss the last ferry back, snag a room at the boutique Boatshed Hotel, situated above the white, sandy beaches of Oneroa, and rest up before exploring the rest of the mythical Middle Earth.


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PROVIDENCE WITH CHEF MICHAEL CIMARUSTI IN LOS ANGELES, CA Select Chase Cardmembers recently enjoyed a private evening with Chef Michael Cimarusti, James Beard Foundation finalist for Best Chef: West, at his award-winning Los Angeles seafood-centric restaurant, Providence. A cocktail and hors d’oeuvres reception was followed by a specially curated, four-course dinner paired with wines. Chef Cimarusti hosted a demonstration featuring one of the evening’s dinner courses and visited with guests.

Aaron Silverman, the chef/owner behind the award-winning Capitol Hill hot spot Rose’s Luxury hosted a rare private evening for Inside Access from Chase guests. The specially curated, seasonal menu included five courses with wine pairings. Critics, foodies and Washington, D.C. crowds embrace the one Michelin-starred Rose’s Luxury, which maintains a neighborhood vibe. Chef Silverman was on hand to share his culinary journey and insights and to take photos with guests.


friends & family | ABU DHABI

Desert Dream Discover the exotic allure of Abu Dhabi. BY BECCA HENSLEY

ALONG THE DUNES:

Guided camel ride in the desert of Abu Dhabi PHOTO: © HEL080808 | DREAMSTIME

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RIDING A FESTOONED camel through sand dunes as tall as canyons, my daughter and I feel like characters from a fairy tale. We gallivant across flaxen hills of sand with nothing but desert in sight, our hands firmly grasping our camels’ humps. In harmony, we think of Aladdin and The Arabian Nights stories based on Middle Eastern fairy tales, set in unnamed lands of enchantment. Thus, entranced, we scour the ground for a genie and his lamp. It could happen — in Abu Dhabi. In fact, Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates, both a city and the emirate that surrounds it, boasts an exotic allure. It feels

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both modern and centuries old, magical and down to earth. Here in the Liwa Desert, also known as the Empty Quarter, about an hour from the urbanity of Abu Dhabi City, we’ve taken up residence for a few days after my work trip in the city. We’ve checked into Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, where staff welcomed us with sweet, chewy dates; thimble-sized cups of bitter, cardamom-laced coffee; and gem-colored flagons full of camel’s milk. I pinch myself, afraid I will awaken from this dream. A transporting resort which melds into the terrain, Qasr Al Sarab rises from the mind-boggling sand dunes as a veritable oasis. Through architecture and form it exhibits the grandeur of the indigenous forts that pocked the region, places for chieftains and royalty. Further enhancing the storybook ambience, the resort’s design incorporates thousands of ancient artifacts, all reflecting various aspects of Arabian civilization — from well-worn, centuries-old camel bags to dented, much-used silver coffee pots and hookahs. These mesmerizing pieces adorn common spaces and

INFO TO GO

The second-largest airport in the U.A.E. and one of the fastestgrowing hubs globally, Abu Dhabi International Airport serves more than 102 destinations in 56 countries. Reserve a seat on the magic carpet known as Etihad Airways, Abu Dhabi’s own airline and the U.A.E.’s national carrier, which operates non-stop daily flights between Abu Dhabi and Washington, D.C. (IAD), among other gateways in North America.


SHOPPING SPREE:

Traditional herbs and spices in a souk (top), and traditional Arabic sandals displayed at a souk (bottom) PHOTOS: © DIANA GRADEVA | DREAMSTIME, © KLIGHTS | DREAMSTIME

guestrooms, evoking a captivating timelessness. In the center, a multifaceted pool, encircled by palm trees and other verdant greenery, further plays out this palpable concept of a bygone oasis. Featuring Bedouin activities for children and adults alike, Qasr Al Sarab offers falconry, camel trekking and archery. There’s dune bashing in Jeeps, too, not to mention hikes at sunrise to watch the sky explode in color. Serving stellar Middle Eastern and Arabian cuisine in various restaurants, Qasr Al Sarab also sets up tables in the dunes for celebratory meals. One night, we enjoy a feast beneath a brightly colored Bedouin tent, the desert breeze, musicians and an attentive butler part of the prize. Before our grand finale stay at Qasr Al Sarab, we spent a few days touring the capital, a vibrant, culturally minded city that will soon boast the Louvre Abu Dhabi, designed by Jean Nouvel, and the Guggenheim, envisioned by Frank Gehry. Ensconced on swiftly developing Saadiyat Island, we checked into the contemporary Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi, known for its glamorous vibe and sugary beach. At the Atarmia Spa, a haven offering treatments based on local healing rituals, we enjoyed massages, then decided to leave the island to explore. We only needed to cross a bridge to visit swanky Yas Island. (Abu Dhabi is home to 200 islands.) There we visited the Formula 1 complex and poked our heads into its state-of-the art concert hall. But it was Ferrari World, a motorhead’s fantasy of an amusement park, that channeled my inner child. A high-octane playground rife with car-centric rides for all ages, it attracts thrill seekers with the ultimate adventure: Formula Rossa, the world’s fastest roller coaster. We strapped in, donned the requisite goggles, then blasted at heart-racing speeds (0–149 mph in 4.9 seconds) meant to mimic the experience of a Scuderia Ferrari race. Tourists enticed by their time at Ferrari World can take their yen to drive a step further. Book Yas Racing School, where you steer the wheel of an Aston Martin GT4 on Yas Island’s F1 racetrack. Each November the Yas Marina Circuit

LODGING

EMIRATES PALACE The most opulent stay in Abu Dhabi, this hotel in the bustling center exudes its regal roots. Indulge in the famous high tea service or order Le Café’s cappuccino, topped with 24k gold flakes. West Corniche Road $$$$$

also hosts the annual Etihad Airways Formula 1 Grand Prix. A shopper’s paradise, Abu Dhabi requires some bravado. Haggling is the key. We decided to forego the luxury designer brand stores (Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton and more) to wander through the panoply of souks. We followed the air’s aroma to Yas Perfumes, specializing in oud — a resin from the agarwood tree. When burned it emits a spicy fragrance, popular with Emiratis. After purchasing a burner and some wood chips, we explored the Carpet Souk, a treasure trove of handwoven Turkish and Persian rugs. The unfurled carpets, bursting with color, allude to mystery and past times. In the rustic Al Ain Souk, another day, we picked up affordable bangles and spices, and at the Gold Souk officially applied our now well-practiced

PARK HYATT ABU DHABI A contemporary retreat on Saadiyat Island, this modern hotel, marked by alfresco nooks and crannies, sits on a festive crescent of beach. For a seaside stay, this chic hotel fits the bill. Saadiyat Island $$$$$ QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT BY ANANTARA About an hour from Abu Dhabi City, this remote destination hotel boasts rooms with a view of the most uncanny landscape. Enjoy a luxury look at the Bedouin life with activities from falconry to camel riding. 1 Qasr Al Sarab Road $$$$$

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SOARING SPIRIT:

Interior of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque (top), and falconer with falcon in the desert (bottom) PHOTOS: © PATRYK KOSMIDER | DREAMSTIME, © HEL080808 | DREAMSTIME

DINING

HAKKASAN You can swoon over Hakkasan’s modern Chinese dishes in a handful of cities around the world, but the outpost in Abu Dhabi stands out as the jewel in the brand’s storied crown. Emirates Palace, West Corniche Road $$$$ LI BEIRUT In a stunning high-rise hotel in the heart of the city on the beach, seven restaurants tempt. But Li Beirut, celebrating Middle Eastern cuisine, draws diners who love the flavors of the region. Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, West Corniche $$$$ SAADIYAT BEACH CLUB With four outstanding restaurants, not to mention a beach and pool for repose, this swish hangout offers sophisticated abundance. Try Safina, its Mediterranean eatery, for a romantic dinner. Saadiyat Island $$$$

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bargaining skills and triumphed with a good deal on a necklace. Abu Dhabi offers something for everyone. History buffs will want to visit Abu Dhabi’s second city, Al Ain, where the Al Ain Palace Museum pays homage to former Abu Dhabi ruler and founder of the U.A.E., Sheikh Zayed. He lived in the fort-like complex prior to 1966, and the restored premises portray his way of life. To immerse in the culture, we also visited the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. A welcoming place, it presents unforgettable interiors with a sea-like, handwoven carpet and a ceiling crowned with a prodigious chandelier. Families can tee off at three championship-ready courses, all within a 25-minute radius of one another. Enjoy the beach vistas at the Gary Player-designed Saadiyat Beach Golf Club. Or meet the Abu Dhabi Golf Club’s ultimate challenge, where an infamous hole, fronted by a lake and an imposing rock wall, ensures birdies are rare. Links lovers can try Yas Links Abu Dhabi, the Middle East’s only true links course, voted the 24th best course in the world. For a modern way to romp in the desert, dune bash in Al Gharbia, where you can bounce across the formidable landscape in a high-speed 4x4. Another

OCTOBER 2017

option? Ski the sand at sunset, then stay into the evening for a barbecue. But it’s the otherworldly nature of the Empty Quarter that defines Abu Dhabi for me and my daughter. Our last afternoon at Qasr Al Sarab, we climb the dunes with a falconer in Bedouin dress, his white garments billowing in the wind. On a rim overlooking an infinity of ivory sand, he brings out his birds, and we watch as he demonstrates the ancient art. At dusk, the sun disappears into the meringue-like peaks like a lemon drop tossed from above. We aren’t sure, but we think we see a flying carpet in the sky.


2018 Leisure Lifestyle Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

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PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or fax to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/leisureballot Name Street Address City

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bucket list | ICELAND

Adventures on Ice Explore the glacial grandeur of Iceland’s remote wilderness. BY ALLISON VOIGTS

THRILLS AND CHILLS: (Left to right) Ice climbing at the Sólheimajökull Glacier; an ice cave at Skaftafell Glacier, Vatnajökull National Park; ice from Sólheimajökull Glacier; climbing gear; and a group of people lined up for climbing PHOTOS: © LUCIANY | DREAMSTIME, © ANNA OM | DREAMSTIME, © MASXY0309 | DREAMSTIME, © ROSAMUND PARKINSON | DREAMSTIME, © PHAH SAJJAPHOT | DREAMSTIME

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EVER SINCE READING the outdoor writer Jon Krakauer’s accounts of scaling vertiginous frozen waterfalls and waiting out blizzards in abandoned ice caves, I dreamed of trying my hand at the exotic-sounding sport of ice climbing. But as I peered over the edge of the glacial wall I was about to descend in southeast Iceland, I gulped. Turning around and tugging at my harness and carabiner a final time, I stepped backward into the void. A wide variety of landforms shaped by epochal forces await travelers undeterred by Iceland’s remoteness. Though you can find glaciers all over the country’s 40,000 square miles, the premier site for ice hiking is Skaftafell, a conservation area in the island country’s far southeastern corner reached via the famous Ring Road. This region used to be its own national park but is now the centerpiece of the newly designated — and massive — Vatnajökull National Park, official in 2008. Throughout the park, nearly mile-thick glacial ice alternately covers and reveals mountains, valleys and plateaus. Powerful rivers like the

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Skeiðará, Morsá and Skaftafellsá carry on carving through lowlands and wetlands at the bases of massifs like Hvannadalshnjúkur. Volcanoes like Öræfajökull deposit black ash over the lush vegetation and startling blue ice. Some of the greatest eruptions in history have taken place here. And nature isn’t finished with Vatnajökull, acting out in starkly contrasting manners. Periodic meltwater buildups below glaciers release in spectacular bursts called jökulhlaups that can reconstitute the landscape into a sandy wasteland. One 1996 jökulhlaup lasted days and flowed at nearly 2 million cubic feet per second. The föhn wind causes lower temperatures and prodigious precipitation in the eastern side of the park while warming the western, lee side in a rain shadow effect. Skaftafell itself is an aberration that enjoys more temperate weather — even some sun during summer. One minute you think you’re in the Alps, and in the Arctic the next. To get here from Reykjavík, where you’ll land, takes a four-hour drive along Ring Road 1. Always

INFO TO GO

Keflavík International Airport lies 31 miles southwest of the country’s capital, Reykjavík. Transport between the airport and Reykjavík is by road only, with several comfortable shuttle buses, including Flybus and Airport Express, offering economical services to the capital’s major hotels and guesthouses. Taxis are also available (though more expensive) outside the terminal, and vehicles can be rented from several companies.


check the weather because in winter the roads can become treacherous, but the park stays open all year, with an information center and free parking. Once inside, you’ll have to go on foot, meaning your best bet is to hire a guide and transport service, many of which operate out of the nation’s capital, including day tours and longer treks. It is imperative you not attempt to walk on the glaciers without assistance. Icelandic Mountain Guides, in business since 1994, offers a range of options for visiting Skaftafell accommodating any skill level. Consider a beginner’s walk on Svínafellsjökull Glacier Tongue that lasts only two hours, or go for a full-day hike on its ice field. Combining ice climbing and visits to Iceland’s other main attractions like the Golden Circle is also possible, though keep in mind summiting a peak like Iceland’s highest, the aforementioned Hvannadalshnjúkur, costs quite a bit more. The same tour companies also offer trips to Iceland’s easiest-to-reach glacial tongue, Sólheimajökull. What distinguishes this glacier is the rate at which it is shrinking, about a mile in the last decade. You can already see patches of grass starting to poke out. Glacier Guides offers similar packages,

like an 11-hour trip that lets you climb up frozen Skógafoss waterfall, with a pickup at your hotel. The minimum age for this adventure is 10, and for good reason. Hiking on glaciers can be extremely dangerous and requires special equipment. Must-have items include strong, durable shoes that have ankle support for the many uneven and unsteady surfaces. Most companies provide crampons, and many include hiking boots especially for ice climbing. Strong, waterproof jackets and pants can usually be rented — though not on site — but you’ll also want to bring a light wool sweater, synthetic pants, headwear and gloves. More specialized tools like ice axes and safety lines are usually provided. Pay close attention to your guide’s instructions on how to use your gear and how to take precautions on the shifting terrain before you set out. Deep crevasses and sinkholes called moulins are often invisible until you step on them and can even form suddenly. Don’t walk under ice bridges and — it bears repeating — certainly never venture off on your own. With some advance planning and a professional guide, you’ll be rewarded with a thrilling experience straight out of an adventure story.

nd’s Icela f o rks One al pa n o i t na three 14 ering v o c e and entir e h t nt of .. ll perce joku a n t a try, V st coun large d n seco is the in park l a n o nati the e and p o r Eu de outsi t s e larg . rctic the A

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kicking back | PHILIPPINES

To the Beach Head to Boracay for sun and fun in the Philippines. BY CHADNER NAVARRO AFTER A COUPLE OF HOURS of snorkeling in what felt like the most extreme midday heat of summer, salvation finally materialized in the form of a man paddling toward our catamaran. His canoe was full of coconuts, most of their husks chopped off to reveal the smooth inner shells that house the fruit’s sweet, tasty, must-have-now juice. Coconut man was ready for us. A few of his products already had straws stuck in them, and when he was close enough to hand the first coconut to our guide, nearly everyone on the boat burst into a fit

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of cheering and hollering. Yes, we had an entire cooler of ice-cold water, soda and even beer, but at this moment, fresh coconut juice felt like the necessary beverage to power us up for the rest of what the paradise island of Boracay had to offer. Boracay, one of the 7,000 islands that make up the Philippine archipelago, recently received international renown for its palm tree-dotted shorelines and crystal-clear waters. But Filipinos and intrepid, adventurous foreigners have enjoyed these very riches for years. And now that there’s so much more traveler interest in the island, it seems Boracay has never been livelier or more welcoming. A trip here will, of course, orbit around the paradise-like seas which, when photographed, look at home in any coffee table book. A snorkeling trip that concludes with a fresh coconut treat is just one way to partake. Those who would rather worship the sun from the comforts of a lounge chair have many pristine beaches from which to choose. The most famous of these is White Beach, a more than two-mile stretch of action. White Beach is easily the center of tourism on Boracay, and from here a lot of water activities jet off, including everything from stand-up paddling and water skiing to something completely bizarre: banana boat trips in which a group sitting on an inflatable banana is swiftly pulled around the sea by a motorboat. And for diving enthusiasts, the


SEA LIFE:

(Left to right) Refreshing fresh coconut drink, Filipino boats lining the beach, heart-shaped coral found on the beach, blue starfish, windsurfers and kiteboarders enjoying wind power on Bulabog Beach PHOTOS: © HANSENN | DREAMSTIME, © SAIKO3P | DREAMSTIME, © BRADLEY HAY | DREAMSTIME, © RUSLAN SHAFOROSTOV | DREAMSTIME, © PHOTOBAC | DREAMSTIME

love Filipinos ou’ll spot Y . y a c a r Bo from big everyone to local g families s enjoyin le p u o c y celebrit r. l splendo a c i p o r t its

LODGING

ASYA PREMIER SUITES Tucked away in a less trodden part of the south shore, this intimate resort is likely Boracay’s most romantic. Surrounded by tropical trees, the locally inspired interiors focus on chocolate wood furniture and woven patterns. Sitio Cagban Brgy Manoc-Manoc $$$

strip is dotted with dive centers. Given its popularity, White Beach also boasts the fiercest development on the island. Gone are the days when a trip to Boracay included staying in a beachside hut moonlighting as a guesthouse, and street vendors provided the only places to eat. These days, there’s likely nothing you need that you can’t find on Boracay. White Beach offers every type of hotel accommodation from more modest hostel-type stays to extravagant luxury hotels. It’s also the heart of the island’s entertainment scene. This is where everyone goes to eat out at lively restaurants (though fine dining is almost nonexistent), to grab a cocktail at colorful seaside bars and to shop at souvenir shops and malls. If you’re looking to partake of those cheap lounge-chair massages popular all over Southeast Asia, White Beach is where you want to perch yourself for a relaxing rubdown. Every other beach on the island pales in comparison to White Beach when it comes to developed conveniences. And while it’s easy to situate yourself here for the entirety of your trip, you must visit other parts of Boracay. Bulabog

Beach is known for the groovy watersports crews that use it as their headquarters. Those into kitesurfing, windsurfing, parasailing and other more adventurous pursuits can even make this their Boracay home base. Most of these water enthusiasts offer lessons for beginners, but even if you’re not keen to partake, you can get some awesome Instagramworthy shots of thrill seekers performing all sorts of neat tricks. If you crave more peace and quiet, head up the west coast for Diniwid Beach or to the north for Puka Beach, named after the countless puka shells that wash up on the sand. Both beaches are a world away from the hustle and bustle of White and, to a lesser extent, Bulabog beaches. You might even be able to lie by the water without the occasional vendor disturbing your R&R. Boracay also developed into quite the party scene. If you’re looking to dance the night away, this is the Philippine island for you. Start the night with pre-dinner drinks (and people-watching) at Aplaya Beach Bar, where you can toss back a few fruity cocktails. Both Area 51 Top Secret Party Facility and Conga’s Bar frequently hold themed

DISCOVERY SHORES BORACAY This elegant and bright resort offers a fantastic location steps from White Beach. The 87 allsuite units are modernly decorated in a minimal but beachy aesthetic. Station 1, Balabag $$$$ SHANGRI-LA’S BORACAY RESORT AND SPA Reach the island’s most luxurious property via a private speedboat from Caticlan Airport. Once there, it’s all about refined beachside indulgence, from transporting spa treatments and tennis lessons to parasailing and chef’s dinners. Barangay Yapak $$$$$

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IN THE SWIM:

Snorkeling along a coral reef off Boracay PHOTO: © SOFTLIGHTAA | DREAMSTIME

DINING

HALOWICH This local stalwart draws massive crowds for frozen treats that refresh during the hottest hours of the day. Mango is a big favorite in the Philippines; try the slightly sour green mango milkshake. Boracay Highway, D-Mall, Balabag $ REAL COFFEE & TEA CAFÉ This casual open-air hangout is perfect for a bright, breezy breakfast thanks to its beachfront perch. Diners love the fortifying omelets and pancakes, but the real star is the calamansi muffin. Second Floor Sea World, Station 2, Balabag $ SIRENA The cliff-top restaurant inside the Shangri-La offers the best kind of fine dining, island-style: great views of the sunset plus fuss-free and delicious preparations of marketfresh seafood. Shangri-La’s Boracay Resort and Spa, Barangay Yapak $$$

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parties. Just about everyone on the island seeks out Area 51 for its full-moon parties. Admittedly, however, Boracay is a bona fide high-octane beach destination. Similar to Cancún and Phuket, beauty is still everywhere, and while it’s not difficult to find opportunities to relax, relaxation is not necessarily what Boracay is now known for. To get a bit of downtime, venture off this island in search of respite on its neighbors. Bespoke tour operator Remote Lands organizes a variety of sailing excursions to the various islands that surround Boracay; some lie nearby (Crystal Cove Island and Magic Island are quite close), but others, more far-flung, showcase a different kind of island life. What do they all have in common? Fantastic, white-sand beaches and clear blue waters. Sibay Island, about 32 miles southwest of Boracay, is far less manicured. It combines rocky coastlines with beautifully sandy coves. But regardless of which islands you end up on, Remote Lands can organize a fantastic schedule that includes snorkeling, cliff jumping, beachside seafood barbecues and a bit of R&R on nearly deserted secret hideaways. And then the day ends with a sunset sail back to Boracay. Your island-hopping experience might not feature a wildly different itinerary (these are modest islands, after all), but it will be refreshing to escape the masses if even for a few hours — and isn’t escaping the best part of kicking back?

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INFO TO GO

Getting to Boracay is quite easy, especially if you’re already in the Philippines. From Manila (MNL), a one-hour flight gets you to the nearest airport at Caticlan (MPF), on the neighboring island of Panay. From here, take a boat to the island of Boracay; many inexpensive public boats ferry travelers back and forth. But check if your hotel offers a private transfer service to make the whole thing even easier. Kalibo Airport (KLO) lies 40 miles from the jetty port of Caticlan, but it is serviced by larger aircraft coming from international cities like Hong Kong and Singapore.


DISCOVER THE BEAUTY OF THE

Philippines

Kayangan Lake Coron, Palawan

Enjoy non-stop flights to the Philippines from Los Angeles, San Francisco and Honolulu. We also fly from New York via Vancouver. Walk on white sand beaches, swim in clear blue waters and explore the many wonders our islands have to offer. Enjoy a comfortable flight experience with our delicious inflight meals, 2-piece free baggage allowance up to 23kgs each, in-seat video, Wi-fi access, mobile connectivity and more personal space where you can relax. We fly non-stop to Manila from San Francisco daily. Have a heartwarming travel experience with the airline that celebrates the Heart of the Filipino. PHILIPPINEAIRLINES.COM |

flyPAL | 1-800-435-9725 (1-800-I-FLY-PAL) | VISIT YOUR NEAREST TRAVEL AGENT


lgbtq

For the Love of London It’s a historic time to visit England’s capital city. BY MARK CHESNUT LOOK TO LONDON:

London Eye at sunset PHOTO: © PAWEŁ OPASKA | DREAMSTIME

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IF YOU’RE AN LGBTQ TRAVELER, now is an especially appropriate time to visit London according to Paul Gauger, interim executive vice president of the Americas, VisitBritain, the nation’s tourism organization. “The United Kingdom is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the start of decriminalization of homosexuality in England and Wales,” he said. “To mark the significant anniversary, cultural establishments throughout Great Britain are featuring special exhibits and events commemorating the anniversary. In London, the British Museum and the Tate are revealing prolific exhibitions great for first-time visitors to experience.” Regardless of timing, of course, London has lots to offer LGBTQ travelers. “Whether you are in the buzzing bars and clubs of Soho and Vauxhall or the hip East End, London is full of fun neighborhoods where diversity is celebrated,” Gauger noted.

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To make it easier for gay globetrotters to discover the United Kingdom, VisitBritain in 2014 launched a Love Is Great campaign and maintains a section on its website with gay travel guides to London and other destinations. To underscore the historic year, as well as the United Kingdom’s progressive stance, the British government is celebrating LGBTQ rights by participating in walks in 16 cities across the United States, Mexico and Canada this year. “It was my great privilege to walk for the first time in D.C.’s Capital Pride,” said Kim Darroch, British Ambassador. “Diversity and inclusion are values that make the United Kingdom great, and as a leader in human rights, the U.K. is committed to promoting the LGBT cause around the world.” Among London’s most gay-popular neighborhoods is Soho, home to G-A-Y Bar, attracting a diverse and young crowd, and Comptons of Soho, described as a “grand old gay pub” with a nearly 30-year history. Hazlitt’s Hotel is a top choice for visitors looking to be conveniently close to Soho’s gay life. In Vauxhall, Eagle London and mega-club XXL offer large-scale nighttime diversion. And in the hip and creative East End, Dalston Superstore serves multiple functions as a café/bar and art space; Town Hall Hotel is an appropriately cutting-edge hotel option here.



airport update

Soaring Success New Orleans’ airport reaches all-time highs in passenger traffic. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ

EXCITING GROWTH PLANS and new openings are in the works at Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport. In August the airport welcomed its first wine bar, Vino Volo, in Concourse C — the home of American Airlines, JetBlue and international flights. In terms of passenger traffic, the airport saw unprecedented growth in recent months, in large part due to additions of a number of low-fare carriers like Allegiant Air and Spirit Airlines. Florida-based Spirit Airlines added three new year-round connections in May, including non-stop flights to Baltimore (BWI), Cleveland (CLE) and Orlando (MCO). In November the airline will add four non-stop flights, including new routes to and from Boston (BOS), Newark (EWR), Tampa (TPA) and Minneapolis (MSP). Also in May, Condor Airlines began flying seasonal flights from Frankfurt (FRA) to New Orleans — the first direct flights to fly from Europe to New Orleans since being suspended following Hurricane Katrina in 2005. Earlier in the spring, British Airways began direct service four days a week from London (LHR) to Louis Armstrong, and Southwest began flying non-stop flights from New Orleans to RaleighDurham (RDU) and Columbus (CMH). In November British Airways increases service to five days a week. New planes aren’t the only mode of transportation welcomed at Louis Armstrong this summer. Lyft began operation at the airport in July, now located in the ground transportation area on the arrivals level. In August the Federal Aviation Administration announced plans to award $282.6 million in Airport Improvement Program grants to

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67 airports in 29 states. As part of this grant program, Louis Armstrong will receive $26.1 million in combined AIP and discretionary funding to construct its new terminal. The massive terminal construction project currently underway at the airport costs nearly $1 billion and is expected to open in early 2019 — a bigger price tag and later timeline than originally planned. The delay is due in part to the addition of five gates and more terminal space to the original plan. However, the additional cost and time are necessary, considering the airport saw more than 11.1 million passengers in 2016 — the highest number in its sevendecade history. The number of departing passengers grew twice as fast as officials expected in 2016. By 2019 the airport expects the number of passengers flying out of New Orleans to be 18 percent higher than was expected for that year in 2013 — the year the project was initially proposed. In addition to 35 new gates, the 972,000-square-foot terminal will include a 2,190-car parking garage, a central utility plant and a ground transportation area. In other good financial news, the state of Louisiana refinanced $377 million in gasoline and fuel taxes in August, freeing up more than $54 million for infrastructure improvements. State treasurer Ron Henson said in a news release the savings should be spent on the TIMED infrastructure program, planned to widen 536 miles of state highways and maintain and improve three major bridges, the Port of New Orleans and Louis Armstrong.

OUTBOUND:

Departure gates at Louis Armstrong International Airport PHOTO: © ERIK LATTWEIN | DREAMSTIME

LOUIS ARMSTRONG NEW ORLEANS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT flymsy.com


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health

You Are What You Eat Don’t let indigestion interfere with your travels. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER, nearly everyone experiences indigestion (dyspepsia), a feeling of discomfort or burning in your upper abdomen. You may belch and feel bloated. You may also feel nauseated or even vomit. Although indigestion is common, each person experiences it in a slightly different way, with symptoms occurring only occasionally or as often as daily. It is bad enough to have indigestion at home; you certainly want to avoid it while traveling, though sticking to your normally healthy diet of fruits, vegetables, whole grains and lean proteins is not always a priority or even a possibility. You may get indigestion from eating too much or too fast, eating high-fat or spicy foods, or eating when you are stressed or anxious. Other contributors include smoking; drinking too many alcoholic, caffeinated or carbonated beverages; eating chocolate; taking certain medicines; and being tired. Sometimes the culprit is a function of the digestive tract itself, such as an ulcer or gastroesophageal reflux disease. Other causes include gastritis, peptic ulcers, celiac disease, gallstones, constipation, pancreas inflammation (pancreatitis), stomach cancer, intestinal blockage and reduced blood flow in the intestine (intestinal ischemia). Indigestion with no obvious cause is known as functional or non-ulcer dyspepsia. Indigestion occurs during or right after eating. It may feel like heat, burning or pain in the area between the navel and the lower part of the breastbone, an unpleasant fullness that comes on soon after a meal begins or when the meal is over. You may experience bloating in the upper abdomen and an uncomfortable sensation of tightness. Sometimes people with indigestion also experience heartburn, but heartburn and indigestion are two separate conditions. Heartburn is a pain or burning feeling in the center of your chest that may radiate into your neck or back during or after eating.

Although indigestion doesn’t usually have serious complications, it can affect your quality of life by making you feel uncomfortable and causing you to eat less. You might miss work or school because of your symptoms. Indigestion can be a sign of a more serious problem, so you should see your health care provider if it lasts for more than two weeks or if you have severe pain or other symptoms. Your provider will take a history and perform a thorough assessment, which may be sufficient if your indigestion is mild and you’re not experiencing certain symptoms such as weight loss and repeated vomiting. But if your indigestion began suddenly and you are experiencing severe symptoms or are older than age 55, your doctor may recommend X-rays, a CT scan, lab tests, a stool sample or an upper endoscopy to diagnose the cause. You may need medicines to treat the symptoms. Lifestyle changes can help ease indigestion. Avoid foods that trigger indigestion; eat five or six small meals a day instead of three large meals; reduce or eliminate the use of alcohol and caffeine; and avoid certain pain relievers such as aspirin, ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin IB and others) and naproxen sodium (Aleve). Find alternatives for medications that trigger indigestion, and try controlling stress and anxiety If your indigestion persists, medications may help. Over-the-counter antacids are generally the first choice. Another option is a proton pump inhibitor, which reduces stomach acid. PPIs may be recommended if you experience heartburn along with indigestion. H-2-receptor antagonists can also reduce stomach acid. Prokinetics may be helpful if your stomach empties slowly. Antibiotics may be considered if H. pylori bacteria are causing your indigestion. Antidepressants or anti-anxiety medications may ease the discomfort from indigestion by decreasing your sensation of pain.

Alternative and complementary treatments may help ease indigestion although they have not been well-studied. These treatments include herbal therapies such as peppermint and caraway, behavior modification, relaxation techniques, mindfulness meditation, cognitive behavioral therapy and hypnotherapy. Acupuncture may work by blocking the nerve pathways that carry sensations of pain to the brain. STW 5 (Iberogast) is a liquid supplement that contains extracts of herbs including bitter candytuft, peppermint leaves, caraway and licorice root. STW 5 may work by reducing the production of gastric acid. Always check with your doctor before taking any supplements to be sure you’re taking a safe dose and that the supplement will not adversely interact with other medications you take. Most of the time indigestion is not a sign of a serious health problem unless it occurs with other symptoms. Rarely, the discomfort of a heart attack is mistaken for indigestion. Get medical help right away if your symptoms include jaw pain, chest pain, back pain, heavy sweating, anxiety or a feeling of impending doom. These are possible heart attack symptoms. Digestive problems can put a damper on your trip, but watching what you eat can help keep your digestive system on track. Significant changes in your eating habits, not drinking enough fluids and even the stress of travel can result in indigestion. Do not eat foods without considering what’s in them or how they were cooked. Avoid eating heavy meals late at night, and do not lie down after consuming a heavy meal; your system requires two hours to properly digest a meal. Allow enough time for meals, chew food carefully and completely, avoid arguments during meals and avoid excitement or exercise right after eating. Relax and get rest if stress is causing your indigestion.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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Los Angeles Municipal Airport, originally known as Mines Field, began operations as a general aviation field in 1928. In 1946 commercial airline service began, and the airport was renamed Los Angeles International Airport in 1949. The newest improvement is the proposed LAX Automated People Mover (APM) — shown in the artist's rendering above. The APM will be about two miles long and will include six stations. It will be designed for passengers with luggage and allow for reliable access to the airport. Each station within the Central Terminal Area will connect to moving walkways to ensure passengers can get to their terminals quickly.

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