September 2021 Global Traveler by Global Traveler

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September 2021

BOSTON p. 68 COPENHAGEN p.56 GULF SHORES p. 54 KRAKÓW p. 48 MILAN p. 58 PHILADELPHIA p.62 QUÉBEC CITY p.60 ST. LUCIA p. 64 TRANSYLVANIA p. 70

CHANGE OF PACE Slow down and unwind in easy-going Phuket. p. 72

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR ®

EDITORIAL Editor In Chief Kimberly Krol Inlander kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Vice President/Digital Director Katie Skrzek katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor Janice Hecht jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor Patricia Vanikiotis patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator Mary Melnick mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor Audrey Lee audrey.lee@globaltravelerusa.com

Philadelphia Fans: Kimberly and Scott showing off their Philly Pride PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

Home and Away

henever Philadelphia appears on our editorial calendar, I’m tempted to write the article, as I was born, raised and still live in Bucks County, Pennsylvania, just 30 minutes outside of Philadelphia. I always waver between crafting the article from a native’s perspective or bringing it to you from the outlook of a traveler to the region. This time I decided to give it a go myself in this month’s Neighborhoods article on page 62. Writing about the Fairmount neighborhood left me a bit nostalgic, as it included one of my favorite childhood spots: the Please Touch Museum. I wasn’t able to find the photo I had in mind, but there’s a picture of me as a pre-teen in overalls delivering a weather report in the museum’s child-sized newsroom. Today I keep that wonder alive by taking my niece and nephew, 5-year-old twins, to the museum — now in a new, bigger building — each year for their birthday. I also had another chance to highlight my hometown with this month’s Spas article, covering the spa facilities at The Rittenhouse, one of Philadelphia’s preeminent hotels, on page 30. I’m typically asked where I’m from when I’m on my travels. Well, I’m either asked, or people assume when they hear my accent. Just ask our freelancer Kristy Alpert, also featured in this issue, who dubbed me “Philly Kim” when we met on a trip to Israel. Surprisingly enough, people are as familiar with Philadelphia

as they are with Bucks County, which is chock-full of its own treasures, nature, fantastic museums and first-class dining and entertainment. It’s even home to the world’s only Sesame Place. I encourage everyone, no matter what big city might be No. 1 on your itinerary, to venture outside the city limits and see what amazing surprises await in the suburbs, as well. Our “Scenic Drives” section of our Stateside articles is a great place to start for inspiration. Given the Philadelphia mindset I was in as we wrapped this issue, I wanted to pick a photo that embodied that spirit. Scott and I are at Eagles training camp, and there’s nothing more “Philly” than rooting for the Philadelphia Eagles. Covering Dracula’s Castle in Transylvania has long been an article I’ve been eager to bring you. Find Alpert’s report on Halloween in the Romanian region on page 70. There’s still plenty of time to plan your own spooky Halloween at the castle! We also bring you the second in our two-part series on diversity, equality and inclusion on page 42. Sheryl Nance-Nash takes a closer look at the hotel industry this month. Katie McElveen’s examination of charitable travel on page 38 provides a nice tie-in. We can all use our travel opportunities to spread good in the world. We also travel to Kraków, Gulf Shores, Copenhagen, Milan, Québec City, St. Lucia, Boston, Phuket and Guadalajara in this issue. Join us next month as we take a closer look at aviation in our annual Class Act Guide. Until then, don’t forget to vote in our GT Tested Reader Survey awards by Sept. 30. Find the ballot on page 28 for more information.

ART Art Director Tracey Cullen tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer Christopher P. Ottaunick christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor Vance Piccin

COLUMNISTS Margaret Backenheimer Debra Bokur J.D. Brown Mark Chesnut Jack Guy Kelly Magyarics

WRITERS Kristy Alpert Susan B. Barnes Teresa Bitler Kim Foley MacKinnon Becca Hensley Steve Jermanok Katie McElveen Allie Moore Sheryl Nance-Nash Allison Voigts

For complete bios visit globaltravelerusa.com

CIRCULATION Special Projects Manager John Wroblewski Specialist Louie Atsaves Managers Jayhawk Evans, Mark P. Ford, Teresa Jackson, Anthony “Scraps” Dimera Circulation Director Michele Shannon Circulation Manager Anna Pudzianowski Research Consultant Sharon Sterne ADVISORY BOARD Chairman Michael Donahue COO Michael Kiely President Carlos Cappuccio Deputy Vice President Aviation Edward Jefferson Deputy Vice President Accommodations Stephen Doherty Deputy Director Destinations Wayne Tallman Vice President Special Events/Photography Christopher Ottaunick Secretary Mark Lane Research Director Frank LoVerme Director of Technology Bob Hancock Director of Digital Advancement Jared Torgan Vice President of Corporate Giving Jim Bolger

GENERAL COUNSEL Thomas F. Goldman CONTACT US General Inquiries/Issue Requests/Reprints info@globaltravelerusa.com Subscriptions tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com Public Relations kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com Letters to the Editor letters@globaltravelerusa.com

Kimberly Krol Inlander Editor in Chief

As of publication, the destinations and venues mentioned in this issue were planning to reopen or are currently operating, but many may have restrictions or limitations in place to address current public health concerns. Always check in advance to confirm current requirements and restrictions.

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ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO Francis X. Gallagher tel 215 919 8988 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Advertising Manager Haley Fogarty tel 215 932 0284 | haley.fogarty@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Western Region and Asia Maria Angeles tel 215 932 1621 | maria.angeles@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Southern Region and the Caribbean Carrie Cox tel 215 932 0861 | carrie.cox@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive Mexico Mariana Zenizo tel 52 55 6560 1152 | marzenizo@gmail.com Production & Advertising Manager Yasser Ogando tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

REPRESENTATIVES

On a Stroll: Francis on a walking tour in Savannah with Bethany (Tours by Locals) and key members of the Globility Board

France Géraldine Roger tel 33 1 88 32 62 61 | cell 33 7 81 22 02 36 | groger@asset-media.com

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India Vimal Anand tel 91 124 4932020 | cell 91 98100 71000 | vimal@gmnindia.com

Get Up and Go

looked back at my letter from 2016 and, wow, has travel changed in five years. In the letter I recounted trips taken locally and around the globe — travels to the Gulf of Mexico, Florida, Asia and many other places. I also talked about attending the Global Business Travel Association convention. As so much has changed, I have made no trips outside the United States but have traveled a great deal domestically, and we are planning for a fantastic back-to-travel GBTA convention in Orlando this November. Please make sure you check out the November issue with an exclusive interview with Suzanne Neufang, executive director, GBTA. We just hosted a successful awards event in Washington, D.C., at Kimpton Monaco. The November issue will recap our FXExpress Awards 2021, which cover the winners of the Leisure Lifestyle (GT reader-voted), The Trazees (trazeetravel.com reader-voted) and Wherever (whereverfamily.com reader-voted) awards. Along that vein, this is the last month to vote for the GT Tested Reader Survey awards, which honor your best airline, hotel and destination partners. Please complete the ballot for your favorites before the Sept. 30 deadline. This is the 18th year we present these awards, and we are well into the planning for the GT Tested awards event, to be held in December.

Australia Charlton D'Silva tel 61 2 9252 3476 | charlton.dsilva@pubintl.com.au

Indonesia Sarah Hutabarat tel 62 21 29704008 | sarah@mediaman.co.id

This fall we have a lot going on, with a meeting of our subscriber Globility Board at which travel brands will present ideas in focus-group sessions. It is a wonderful way to get inside the heads of entrepreneur travelers who make their own decisions about which airline to fly and hotel to stay at. Any subscribers interested in joining the board can reach me directly at fran@globaltravelerusa .com to receive an application and take part in the vetting process. We encourage new membership to join the great team we currently have on board. I know many of our board members have traveled like mad. For example, Eric Chiang, who has been to Hawai’i in the last few weeks, is planning his visit to the Dubai Expo in November. Eric lets little time pass before he boards another flight! With fall in full swing, we look forward to more trips, travels and golf — join the fun!

Japan Yoshinori Ikeda tel 81 3 3661 6138 | yoshinori.ikeda@pacific-business.com Korea Jeff Hwang tel 82 31 702 7782 | cell 82 010 6347 9117 | gng@gngcom.co.kr Malaysia Ester Chai tel 60 3 7722 1968 | esther@fitzgerald.com.my Singapore Peggy Thay tel 65 6871 8964 | peggy.thay@pubintl.sg Slovak Republic (Eastern Europe) Zorka Sipkova tel 421 948094611 | zorka.sipkova@pubintl.eu South America and the Caribbean (excluding Peru and Colombia) Ana Torres de Navarra tel 305 205 3303 | ana@colibri-media.com Spain Olga Martínez tel 34 91 320 0497 | cell 34 669 10 12 73 olga.martinez@aboutim.es Taiwan Keith Lee tel 886 2 2523 8268 | leekh@ms4.hinet.net Thailand Janya Limmanee tel 66 2 0514694 | janya.l@jpp-thailand.com Turkey Elif Mengu cell 90 532 255 83 24 | elif@catalyzismedia.com United Arab Emirates (UAE) Rosy Kachouh Nawfal cell 971 55 607 8163 | rosy@i-repme.com

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WELCOME ON BOARD Fly to new destinations safely with Turkish Airlines.

ISTANBUL

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September 2021

features 38

BOSTON p. 68 COPENHAGEN p.56 GULF SHORES p. 54 KRAKÓW p. 48 MILAN p. 58 PHILADELPHIA p.62 QUÉBEC CITY p.60 ST. LUCIA p. 64 TRANSYLVANIA p. 70

CHANGE OF PACE Slow down and unwind in easy-going Phuket. p. 72

Giving Back Charitable travel makes a positive impact on destinations and communities.

Room to Improve Hotels take steps to prioritize diversity in the industry.

COVER PHOTO: BIG BUDDHA PHUKET PHOTO: © NARONG NIEMHOM | DREAMSTIME.COM

globaltravelerusa.com SEPTEMBER 2021

business destinations 48

Destination One: Kraków Kraków hums with industry, culture and youthful energy.

Stateside: Gulf Shores Gulf Shores invests in its greatest asset: the environment.

MICE: Copenhagen Host a fabled business event in wonderful Copenhagen.

9–5: Milan Count on Milan’s sense of style to impress clients and colleagues.

After 5: Québec City The old city shines with lively French-Canadian culture.

PHOTO: © SURIEL RAMIREZ ZALDIVAR | DREAMSTIME.COM

September 2021

CONTENTS

W E LC O M E

H O M E

Experience the newly redesigned rooms, suites and villas complemented by residential comfort, contemporary furnishings and legendary Peninsula service.

9 8 8 2 S O U T H S A N TA M O N I C A B O U L E VA R D, B E V E R LY H I L L S , C A 9 0 212 , U S A

T E L : + 1 310 5 51 2 8 8 8

E-MAIL: PBH@PENINSULA.COM

H O N G KO N G • S H A N G H A I • B E I J I N G • TO K YO • N E W YO R K • C H I C A G O • B E V E R LY H I L L S • PA R I S • B A N G KO K • M A N I L A Under Development LO N D O N • I S TA N B U L • YA N G O N • peninsula.com

September 2021

CONTENTS 70

in every issue 10 14 16 20 22 23 26 27 30 32 34 36 76 78 80 82

Mail Call News Reviews One on One: AlUla One on One: Air Canada Technology Wine & Spirits

Wealth Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ+ Airport Update Medical Tourism Preview

leisure destinations 62

Neighborhoods: Philadelphia Philadelphia’s Fairmount boasts impressive collections and a friendly vibe.

Friends & Family: St. Lucia Escape to the lush tropical wonders of St. Lucia.

Tours: Boston

Bucket List: Transylvania

Take a haunting tour of legendary Bran Castle … if you dare.

Kicking Back: Phuket

Slow down and unwind in easy-going Phuket.

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P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2021 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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American history comes to life along Boston’s Freedom Trail.

MAIL CALL

Q&A WITH CARRIE COX, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE, SOUTHERN REGION AND THE CARIBBEAN Cruising has always been one of my favorite ways to travel, but early stories of COVID outbreaks on cruise ships altered many people’s perceptions of cruising in the future. Are cruises still part of your travel plans? When do you intend to set sail? Tell us. Email us at letters@globaltravelerusa.com

Q&A TIME In our August 2021 issue, we asked: Pandemic aside, what do you think is the most underrated vacation destination and why? A few readers wrote in: Funnily enough, my answer to this question was a destination covered in your August issue! Lāna’i, Hawai’i, is far too often overlooked for travelers to Hawai’i, in my opinion. Everyone flocks to mainstays, and they are missing a true gem in Lāna’i. I also think people don’t give Kauai the recognition it deserves as somewhere to visit in the Aloha State.

I have three European destinations I’d add to this list: Georgia, which has reinvigorated itself and is a must for hiking and cuisine; Romania, which falls off the radar to other up-and-coming Eastern European hot spots; and Montenegro, which is just as showstopping as Croatia, without the crowds. MOLLY MCCANN, VIA EMAIL I think when all the borders reopen, every worldwide destination is going to feel like it’s undiscovered, new and underrated — discover them now if you can, before the crowds return! GUS TRAVERS, VIA EMAIL

MUSINGS ON TRAVEL TO GREECE We’ve begun traveling again and just returned from three weeks in Greece. Our round-trip international flights from Chicago to Athens were on American Airlines. Although seated in economy on a Boeing

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Dreamliner, it was surprisingly comfortable. Just try getting upgraded or obtaining a business-class seat on international flights unless you plan months in advance. In-flight services were plentiful, courteous, and flights were on time! Entering Greece was simple: Although fully vaccinated, we were randomly selected for COVID testing, but that process was efficient and only a 15-minute inconvenience before we were on our way to Grand Hyatt Athens. The hotel is wonderful with the rooftop restaurant and pool (they have three!) boasting a spectacular view of the Acropolis. The hotel itself is a short walk to Plaka, Syntagma Square, museums and the Acropolis. After two days of acclimation, we headed to Piraeus for an overnight stay at Piraeus Port Hotel. It’s a simple but well-run hotel that’s a quick 10-minute walk to the ferry docks. But first we had a spectacular meal at Varoulko, a Michelin-rated restaurant. Then a ferry ride to Paros for two days to acclimate to the sun and climate. It’s said Paros is becoming the new Mykonos, but more affordable. It’s chocka-bloc with typical Greek tourist shops, and the draw

DO YOU HAVE A STORY TO SHARE? THOUGHTS ON A RECENT GT ARTICLE? Email: letters@globaltravelerusa.com Write: Letters to the Editor 309 Floral Vale Blvd. Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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Ready to plan your next family vacation? Whereverfamily.com is the trusted source for the modern family written by award-winning journalists connected closely to family travel. Updated daily with content unique to today’s traveling families, the website features need-to-know information on planning family trips at any budget for any age group.

MAIL CALL

to Navica and Versify was flawless. We breezed through check-in and Customs at Athens airport. One final comment: The Greeks are ever so grateful to have tourists back. And even as Mykonos sees more than 1 million tourists a season, we were welcomed back with great appreciation. Next stop is Amsterdam and Paris. JONATHAN FUCHS, VIA EMAIL

AIR FRANCE PREPARES FOR ARRIVAL OF AIRBUS A220

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IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine. IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth. Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind and soul in is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands. BY mouth. BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones. PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

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INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE

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kicking back | COOK

I am very excited to see Air France take delivery of its first Airbus A220-300. I really like the Airbus A220, but I also like aircraft such as the Boeing 747 and 737, and Airbus A320, A321, A380 and more. I can’t wait to see the interior of Air France’s A220!

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In the Aug. 4 issue of eFlyerUSA, we told readers about how Air France is preparing for delivery of its first of 60 Airbus A220300s. The new aircraft will replace the airline’s A318s and A319s. We asked: Are you excited for the new Airbus A220? What is your favorite aircraft? One reader shared feedback.

a magical place which rejuvenates us each time we visit. It’s important to know: A U.S. driver’s license is accepted to rent a vehicle, but at the Hertz rental counter we were advised to have an International Drivers License as the police, if you’re stopped, will request an IDL. If you don’t have one, it’s a hefty euro fine! An IDL is easy to get from AAA or online, and I always have a current one. Taxis are expensive on Mykonos, the buses are often crowded, and all the ATVs and motorcyclists make driving a challenge. Still, a car allows you to visit the many beaches and tavernas throughout the island. The eMed/Navica/Versify Protocol advised by American Airlines was delightfully easy and efficient. No waiting on the initial web/phone contact with eMed, and the interoperability

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month we featured blogs about everything from a daytrip to Brooklyn to dining at “Florida’s Oldest Restaurant.”

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is Naussa. But finding a place to park our Hertz rental was indeed a challenge. Then a quick car ferry for three days in AntiParos. We stayed at Artemis Hotel, the surprise of the trip. Recently refurnished, it’s right off the port, modern and convenient. I’ve been visiting Greece for more than 40 years, and this was such a delightful island. It’s upscale without being outlandish. We could have stayed there for three more weeks, but Mykonos called. Another ferry and we were on Mykonos, as wild and expensive as ever. We saw at times four cruise ships docking at once for daytrippers, but we stay far out of town on Elia Beach, one of the longest and most lovely beaches on Mykonos. Even after 40 years and the development of high-cost hotels and rentals, Mykonos remains

NEWS, DEALS AND REWARDS

Regent Seven Seas World Cruise Breaks Booking Record

L.A. Begins Airport Metro Connector The Los Angeles County Metropolitan Transportation Authority began construction on its $898 million Airport Metro Connector Project, directly linking the transit system to Los Angeles International Airport. The project will be the ninth station along the 8.5-mile Crenshaw/LAX Line, currently under construction and one of 12 transit projects funded by Measure R, the half-cent sales tax approved by Los Angeles County voters in 2008. Planned for completion in 2024, the new transport hub will include platforms to access Metro light rail trains and an expansive 16-bay bus plaza to serve Metro and other bus operators in the region. The AMC will connect travelers directly with the Automated People Mover project currently being built at LAX to connect with passenger terminals. The APM is expected to be fully operational by 2023, boasting 2.25 miles of elevated electric train system. Passengers and LAX employees will be able to easily transit between the airport and new facilities for transit, car rental and off-site parking. The $2 billion project is a historic investment, with more than $585 million identified for local, small or disabled veteran-owned businesses. The project will create more than 2,000 construction jobs, 30 percent of which will be reserved for L.A. residents and those in highly impacted communities near LAX. _______ flylax.com

For the third year in a row, Regent Seven Seas Cruises broke the company’s world cruise opening day booking record. The 2024 World Cruise sold out around 11 a.m. on July 14 after going on sale that morning at 8:30 a.m. Fares started at $73,499 per guest for a deluxe veranda suite and ranged up to $199,999 per guest for a master suite. At close to five months and 34,500 nautical miles, Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ “Navigate the World” begins Jan. 6, 2024, from Miami, Florida, on Seven Seas Mariner. The cruise will visit 66 ports of call across 31 countries and four continents, including Central America, the U.S. West Coast, Hawai’i, the South Pacific, Australia, New Zealand, the Middle East, Southeast Asia, the Indian subcontinent, the Mediterranean and Bermuda. The cruise includes more than 132 nights, 442 free shore excursions, access to 61 UNESCO World Heritage sites, 12 in-port overnight stays and transits of both the Panama Canal and Suez Canal. _______ rssc.com

Hurtigruten Expeditions strengthens its partnership with California Ocean Alliance, a research, conservation and education organization, to better understand and protect whales and other marine mammals in Antarctica. A pilot launched in late 2019 but was paused due to the pandemic but will restart with the 2021/2022 Antarctica season. California Ocean Alliance scientists will join several MS Roald Amundsen sailings in Antarctica. The ship is the world’s first hybrid electric-powered expedition cruise ship. The scientists will collect acoustic data to study ambient noise conditions, the sounds marine animals make and the effect of human presence on the soundscape. The research will allow Hurtigruten and other cruise lines to adapt to minimize interference with whales. They will also collect skin and blubber biopsy samples from whales to evaluate health, population growth rates and stress levels. Guests can access scientists on board all Hurtigruten Expeditions cruises, and all ships feature a state-of-the-art Science Center, offering exhibits and hands-on experiences. The Science Program encourages guests to participate in a range of research projects. COA scientists will join sailings departing Jan. 11, Jan. 27 and Feb. 12, 2022. _______ hurtigruten.com

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PHOTOS: © METRO, © REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES, © HURTIGRUTEN

Hurtigruten Partners with California Ocean Alliance

Table Mountain Inn Debuts Adventure Offers Table Mountain Inn in Golden, Colorado, has outdoor adventure guest offers for the perfect escape. The Colorado Guided Fishing offer for two includes tackle, waders, boots and lunch, as well as accommodations and a $50 voucher for Table Mountain Grill & Cantina. Rates start at $504 per night, with two guided options at $350 for two anglers and eight hours on the water, and $275 for two at four hours on the water. Valid through Dec. 31. Enjoy miles of bike trails with the Golden Cycler option, including choice of mountain or leisure bike for the day and accommodations. Through Oct. 31, rates start at $259 per night. The Dinosaur Ridge offer includes a one-night stay with two-day passes to the local Dinosaur Ridge Park Walking Tour. Call 303 325 3995 to book, with rates starting at $149 through Dec. 31. _______ tablemountaininn.com

Four Seasons Beverly Hills Debuts Wellness Floor Four Seasons Los Angeles at Beverly Hills created a Wellness Floor for health-focused guests. In a partnership with Delos Living, the fourth floor transformed into a wellness oasis boasting 10 Wellness Rooms, one Wellness Studio Suite, three Wellness Suites, a Private Fitness Suite and a Well Office. The spa, Cabana restaurant, pool deck and fitness center are also located on this floor. One of the hotel’s meeting and event spaces has also been converted into an innovative, wellness-focused event space. The Wellness Rooms feature light, airy designs, Rabbit air purification systems, energizing light to aid with regulating circadian rhythm, water de-chlorinators and purification systems, hypoallergenic wood floors and sound machines. Other amenities include guided meditations narrated by Deepak Chopra, sulfate-free bath amenities by LATHER and in-room fitness and yoga equipment. The Private Fitness Suite can be reserved for a two-hour time slot for up to three guests per party and boasts a treadmill, Peloton bike and other fitness equipment. The Well Office, also with hypoallergenic wood floors and Rabbit air purification systems, has an adjustable-height conference table and a standing desk. _______ fourseasons.com

NH Collection Celebrates Broadway Reopening The new NH Collection New York Madison Avenue continues its inaugural celebration of New York City’s reopening with a Back to Broadway offer. The Back to Broadway offer includes a two-night stay at the hotel, two tickets to the Broadway show of your choice, a private walking tour and 24/7 phone support. Rates start at $749 and include a minimum two-night stay and two tickets. _______ nh-hotels.com

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PHOTO: © FOUR SEASONS

Oceania Cruises Unveils New Stateroom Designs Oceania Cruises unveiled the design elements of its Veranda staterooms, Penthouse Suites, Oceania Suites and Vista Suites aboard its newest ship, Vista, debuting in early 2023. The new ship will feature all veranda accommodations, with staterooms and suites boasting oversized rainforest showers, large vanities and ample storage space. In a brand first, Vista will also introduce Concierge Level Veranda Staterooms for solo travelers. Veranda staterooms, at 291 square feet of living space, are furnished with queen-sized Tranquility beds, plush linens, comfortable seating areas and more. The Concierge Level Veranda Staterooms have extraordinary closet and storage space and allow access to the dedicated Concierge Lounge. This level of stateroom also offers options for solo travelers. Penthouse Suites measure 440 square feet and feature access to the suites-only Executive Lounge with a dedicated concierge. Fourteen Oceania Suites measure 1,000–1,200 square feet with a dedicated butler, while the eight Vista Suites have sweeping 180degree views and 1,450–1,850 square feet of living space. _______

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MANSION ON FORSYTH PARK TOP TAKEAWAYS: Beautiful location, and Forsyth Park is lovely.

-------------------------A value compared with the JW Marriott, at least $150 less a night, perhaps more when I booked MANSION ON FORSYTH PARK 700 Drayton St. Savannah, GA 31401 tel 912 238 5158 kesslercollection.com/mansion

GUEST QUARTERS: We had to ask for a fan to be delivered, as the air-conditioning was inconsistent, sometimes hot and then cold and a little on the damp side. The room had a large

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bathroom on the right, and a short hallway led to the main room with a kingsized bed on the right wall and a built-in entertainment system and TV on the left. There was also a small sitting area. I held many Zoom conference calls in the room, and the WiFi seemed to support this well. Overall, the guestrooms could use modernization, but the bed was comfortable, as were the pillows. SERVICES/ AMENITIES: I had to ask for the room to be cleaned several times and to request fresh towels. Housekeeping seemed understaffed and slightly overwhelmed. On the other hand, the bar staff were superb. We entertained many guests, and the drinks and cuisine were spot on. The restaurant 700 Drayton is also good, but the menu does not change much and allows no alterations at breakfast; that is a complete no-no to me.

Staff were friendly, but flexibility is required for guest ordering. For example, I could only have the omelet (vegetable) that was on the menu. It was tasty, but maybe a few options would be more in line with industry standards. REVIEWED BY Francis X. Gallagher

PHOTOS: © MANSION ON FORSYTH PARK

ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: This is a tale of two visits, one when I was just coming for a late lunch by myself and the other time returning as a five-night guest. The hotel used to be the jewel in the Kessler crown, but since the opening of JW Marriott Savannah Plant Riverside, it feels like the Mansion is an afterthought. Check-in and valet service are always superb at the Mansion; when I was there as a restaurant guest, I had a “big old pickup truck” — well, not old, as it was a rental from Hertz — and I could not have received nicer treatment. In fact, the pickup was out front and remained there as I had lunch — no charge, either! As a guest, I still received very kind care, but service was slower; maybe more people were there. Check-in was swift, but water seemed to be at a premium, and we had to secure this from the front desk daily — which I felt was inconvenient. I often found myself running down to secure a few bottles at the end of the day. The hotel has some impressive artwork throughout which is really interesting and helps set a fun mood.

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PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL

JW MARRIOTT HOTEL SANTO DOMINGO ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: I arrived at JW Marriott Hotel Santo Domingo on a rainy Friday morning and was immediately greeted in the parking lot as the valet opened the car’s door for me and proceeded to unload my luggage. Due to health and safety protocols, the main entrance’s lobby was not fully furnished, but the impressive hydroponic wall garden caught my attention with its vibrant green and deep red tones that complemented the sleek, modern finish of the hotel. I was directed to the main lobby on the second floor, where I was met with impeccable service. Since I was early for my check-in, I set up a little work station by the bar; and before I could even open my computer, I was told my room was ready. Perfect timing, since I had a long day ahead of me. GUEST QUARTERS: Our room was on the 19th floor, directly below the 180-square-foot presidential suite, and it had a gorgeous view of the city through the almost-floor-to-ceiling windows. Since we were in a corner room, we could see the ocean, perfect because it showed us the way to a local attraction, El Malecón. The room décor was modern and perfectly tailored for the luxury business traveler: a spacious desk in front of the aforementioned window with a corner lounge chair and lamp. The closet was a decent size, and there was more than enough drawer space for both of us. The bathroom also had tall glass windows which made it feel bigger than it actually was. While the views were beautiful, I was a bit bummed out ours didn’t have a bathtub or little balcony like the rest of the rooms do. SERVICES/AMENITIES: Sporting a beautiful infinity pool and a thrilling, vertigo-inducing bar experience, the JW’s 15thfloor rooftop deck offered travelers stuck at the hotel due to COVID19 restrictions a gorgeous view to take in while enjoying the fresh air. Unfortunately, when we ventured up, rain clouds gathered and along with a cold wind made swimming feel more like a polar plunge. The all-glass sides allow a good portion of swimmers to show underwater, which can get a bit uncomfortable when you realize all the dining patrons can see you as well.

TOP TAKEAWAYS Great location — a short walk to other malls, pharmacies, banks, restaurants, and a short drive to Zona Colonial

-------------------------Outstanding cleanliness and service

-------------------------Currency exchange is available.

The JW’s Winston’s Grill captivates the eye and the palate between its hip wall homage to Pellegrino and delicious food. Dominican flavors and fresh produce inspire Chef Carlos Sebastiani’s international offerings. From the appetizer to the dessert, the food was impeccably cooked and plated and just the right portion size.

JW MARRIOTT HOTEL SANTO DOMINGO Winston Churchill Ave. 93 Santo Domingo 10501, Dominican Republic tel 1 809 807 1717 marriott.com

REVIEWED BY Yasser I. Ogando

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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HOTEL COLEE ATLANTA BUCKHEAD ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: We flew from Philadelphia International Airport into Atlanta on a mid-afternoon flight. After arriving at Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, my cousin and I visited a friend in Atlanta for a bit, and he drove us to Hotel Colee. We got to the hotel around 8 p.m., but even though we arrived on the later side, check-in still went smoothly. After looking around the hip and well-decorated lobby, we headed up to our room to settle in. GUEST QUARTERS: I was pleasantly surprised at how nice our room was. We stayed in one of the Grand Suites that provides a stunning view of Buckhead. We entered the suite into a living room that had a long, comfortable couch, a bean bag chair and coffee table, along with a small dining table and a smart TV. A tall armoire held a fridge with complimentary water bottles and a coffee station with options for espresso, regular coffee and much more. There was also a half-bath off the living area. In the bedroom, a king-sized bed sat in the middle of the room, and another smart TV hung on the wall across from the bed. There was also a little bench, and exposed pipes doubled as a rack to hang clothes on. The huge full bathroom, off the bedroom, was one of my favorite features. It was covered in mirrors. The shower was the best part, with perfect water pressure and four water jets on the wall to hit every part of your body.

REVIEWED BY Mary Melnick

globaltravelerusa.com SEPTEMBER 2021

TOP TAKEAWAYS: The rooftop pool and bar are a must when staying at Hotel Colee; both provide a relaxing environment and great views of Buckhead.

-------------------------The Buckhead location is great, outside of the hustle and bustle of Atlanta but still easy to get to. Plenty of attractions and shops are within walking distance, including Lenox Square.

-------------------------The guestroom was spacious and provided a welcoming environment and a home-like feel. HOTEL COLEE ATLANTA BUCKHEAD, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION 3377 Peachtree Road N.E. Atlanta, Georgia 30326 tel 678 500 3100 marriott.com

PHOTOS: © MICHAEL KLEINBERG

SERVICES/AMENITIES: We made this trip during the pandemic, so things were still trying to get back to normal. The hotel restaurant was closed, but we enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the comfort of our room. We just had to call down to the front desk to place our order, and it was delivered to the room in no time! The lobby bar and the rooftop bar were both open for guests to enjoy — we didn’t get to go to the rooftop due to a private event on Friday and stormy weather on Saturday, but both destinations looked beautiful. The hotel also has a rooftop pool where guests can relax, cool off and take in the stunning views of the surrounding area of Buckhead.

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THE PENINSULA CHICAGO ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: An interesting morning of air travel was followed by a stress-free greeting at The Peninsula Chicago. Upon arrival I stepped out of my Uber and onto the sidewalk of the hotel to be greeted by a doorman in a beautiful all-white uniform who asked my name in order to alert the front desk of my arrival. Once I made my way through the doors and up to the lobby, a front desk agent acknowledged me by name and assured me check-in was not necessary and that she would take care of it later. She actually walked me all the way to my room on the 17th floor and showed me around the suite. This would be unnecessary if the suite wasn’t so high-tech. I appreciated it after realizing how detail-oriented each guestroom was. A hands-free check-in experience is something I can get used to.

PHOTOS: © THE PENINSULA CHICAGO

GUEST QUARTERS: The Grand Premier King room was where I would rest my head for the one night I was in town. A cloud of a king bed sat in the naturally lit room adjacent to a beautiful couch; a work station equipped with an array of outlets and a printer; and a table holding a hand-written letter from The Peninsula staff, two waters, a fruit basket and a jar of nuts. The room was operated by a tablet system that controlled the lights, temperature, TV and pretty much anything else you could imagine. This system allowed me to request pillows, room service or any other needs I had during my 24 hours in town. One of my favorite aspects was the “dressing room” with lighting options; it led into the beautiful bathroom with its mix of classic and modern décor — complete with a TV and a spa-sized tub where I would wind down after a day of meetings. SERVICES/ AMENITIES: While I didn’t have time to book myself a spa treatment, I could not resist peeking in to see what all of the excitement was about online; and let me tell you, excitement was an understatement. On the top floor of The Peninsula, I took it upon myself to walk around the half-Olympic-sized indoor pool, spa quarters and women’s locker room. The service was wonderful. Since returning to Pennsylvania, I have certainly missed being greeted as Ms. Fogarty every time I entered or exited the property. The turndown service was most notable, as I returned from my dinner reservation to calming music, dimmed lighting and a water bottle next to my bed — also something I’ve missed!

TOP TAKEAWAYS: The rooftop bar, ZBar, and restaurant Shanghai Terrace were delicious!

-------------------------Great location on Michigan Avenue

-------------------------My experience was completely personalized, and the staff was wonderful!

One thing I will say is no matter how often I tried to express my gratitude toward the attentive staff, they appreciated my gesture. But what makes The Peninsula Chicago so outstanding is the fact they do not expect thanks. The 5-star service is such a standard, and I never once felt like the employees were anything less than thrilled to provide such an experience.

THE PENINSULA CHICAGO 108 E. Superior St. Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312 337 2888 peninsula.com

REVIEWED BY Haley Fogarty

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

ONE ON ONE

Melanie de Souza Executive Director, Destination Marketing, Royal Commission for AlUla What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? Committing to a large expenditure to close a deal before the relevant budget was formally handed down. I live to tell the tale! Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? Alan Joyce, chief executive at Qantas, is a great leader. He does not shy away from making tough decisions, champions causes and is well-regarded by his team.

THE BASICS

A LITTLE BIT MORE

THE BUSINESS

Name: Melanie de Souza Title: Executive director destination marketing Company, city: Royal Commission for AlUla; AlUla, Saudi Arabia First job: Sales executive for Oberoi Hotels Where to next: The beautiful country of Georgia

What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? My indulgent answer would be Meryl Streep. I could also say Whoopi Goldberg! What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? I would be in a marketing role with a lifestyle brand, working in advertising or perhaps still with hotels, where I embarked on my career. What is your favorite book, movie or television show? Gruen, an Australian TV program that focuses on advertising and is hilarious and on the money! What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? The refreshing Jacinta Ardern, prime minister of New Zealand. She’s an inspirational human being, politically savvy but still grounded.

What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? We are looking to bring Saudia Arabia more into the tourism space. AlUla is a special place, so it’s important to get the messaging right. Our domestic brand campaign, The World’s Masterpiece, brings to life how AlUla is rich in historical, geological and geographical significance, and how this ancient city, once the crossroads of The Silk Road and The Incense Route, has recently been rediscovered by the world. This is the first-ever destination brand campaign for AlUla and includes a film directed by renowned cinematographer Bruno Aveillan. What is your favorite aspect of the job? Leading a professional team of marketers, including a new generation of passionate and competent Saudis, in positioning what I have no doubt will be one of the greatest tourism destinations of the world

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Tell us about a travel nightmare: Before Google Maps, I navigated my way in Japan on sales calls and deciphered street numbers without the requisite language skills. I’m thankful for the courtesy and friendliness of locals! Share a comical travel experience: In my early days of official visits to China, I observed my Australian associates coming to terms with cultural expectations. I watched them get insanely drunk with the myriad rounds of official toasts and number of courses in a traditional official banquet, all while trying not to giggle. Fortunately for me, I had been well-coached. What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? Planes are efficient to get to a destination when time is limited. I do have a soft spot for the romance of rail journeys. What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? I have had the privilege of staying at some fine hotels. They boast guest history records that are supreme. You are not asked the same question about your preferences twice, and friendly staff address you by your name and appear to be genuinely enjoying their roles.

PHOTO: © ROYAL COMMISSION OF ALULA

AS A TRAVELER

oneworld welcomes Alaska Airlines. We are delighted to welcome our newest member, Alaska Airlines, to oneworld®, an alliance of 14 world-class airlines. Learn more about how you can travel bright at oneworld.com

ONE ON ONE

Andrew Yiu Vice President, Product, Air Canada environment. We did not have anyone on the team with restaurant startup experience, let alone within an airport and all its constraints. I cannot stress enough how well the team came together, and we pulled it off! It was well worth the risk. Who is someone you admire professionally in the travel industry? Someone I admire professionally and worked well with is Ben Smith, CEO, Air FranceKLM. Ben was my mentor; he is a walking encyclopedia of aviation and someone who cares deeply about the customer experience in every business decision.

THE BASICS

THE BUSINESS

Name: Andrew Yiu Title: Vice president, Product Company, city: Air Canada; Toronto, Ontario First job: Customer service agent at Northwest Airlines in Vancouver, British Columbia Where to next: Anywhere in Asia

What is your most recent project, and what was the inspiration behind it? COVID helped us think about what’s important to customers, and our CleanCare+ Program grew from it. We were the first airline to implement such a program and the mandatory requirement of wearing masks on board. Safety will always be our top priority, so it was important for Air Canada to develop a program that gives our customers and employees confidence in a safe and secure travel environment. As we emerge from this pandemic, we are restarting many aspects of our products and services, and I think the CleanCare+ Program is one change that will stay with us. What is your favorite aspect of the job? Working with a dedicated team focused on designing innovative products for our customers; it’s rewarding to see a product go live and be well-received by customers and employees. What’s the biggest business risk you’ve ever taken? In 2016 the planning began to create an exclusive product for customers paying full fare for premium cabins. As a result, in 2017 we launched the Air Canada Signature Suite for our premium customers at Toronto and Vancouver, effectively opening a full-service restaurant within an airport

A LITTLE BIT MORE What actor or actress would play you in a movie of your life? Jackie Chan — a great combination of sense of humor and talent What would you be doing professionally if you weren’t in your current industry? In the hotel or cruise industry, leading product and marketing What is your favorite book, movie or television show? The Amazing Race; I love how the show travels around the world, and it’s always great to see relatable airport and airplane scenes. What historical figure, dead or alive, would you love to have dinner with? The Wright brothers

globaltravelerusa.com SEPTEMBER 2021

Tell us about a travel nightmare: I was stuck in Japan a few years ago as the worst typhoon in almost 50 years struck Tokyo over Thanksgiving. It was unclear when we would get out with everything shut down and devastation around the country. I looked at connecting via China or Europe, but everything was booked for days. Tokyo is one of my favorite cities, so I didn’t mind having some extra time there. Share a comical travel experience: I’ve always been an aviation fanatic. Prior to joining the airline industry, friends and I used to fly to earn frequent-flyer miles, known as mileage runs. One of the best was a Toronto–Chicago–San Francisco–Hong Kong– Singapore–Hong Kong routing. When the check-in agent in Toronto asked if there was a mistake since our final destination was Hong Kong, we convinced her we did not mind flying to Singapore and back right away! What is your preferred method of travel — planes, trains, automobiles, cruise ships — and why? I love to fly, especially ultra-long-haul flights where you can have a good meal and catch up on work and movies with just enough time to squeeze in a nap! What has been the best example of customer service you’ve experienced during your travels? I get to witness many examples of great customer service when I fly as a customer on Air Canada! In other industries, when a hotel proactively goes the extra mile to take care of my family, I appreciate those moments. W Hong Kong comes to mind. My wife and I traveled there for one of our anniversaries, and [ever] since, they’ve remembered us. If our trip coincides with our anniversary, they remember and put something special in our room. Sometimes it’s the little things that matter the most.

PHOTO: © ANDREW YIU

AS A TRAVELER

TECHNOLOGY

At Your Leisure Choose sleek design and portability to suit an active lifestyle. BY JACK GUY DJI POCKET 2 CAMERA A pocket camera that fits in your pocket, this device from DJI stabilizes your shots, thanks to a built-in gimbal to ensure smooth footage. Designed with video blogging in mind, it’s also well-suited for capturing memories at family events or on trips. It records video in 4K or 60 frames per second, can take 64-megapixel photos and fires up in just two seconds, so you will never miss a moment. From $439. dji.com

FITBIT SENSE SMARTWATCH

SYMFONISK WALL SPEAKER

PHOTOS: © SONOS, © DJI, © FITBIT, © NEBULA

A joint effort from audio company Sonos and homeware giant IKEA, this picture frame WiFi speaker can hang on the wall of your home. The idea is to make the most of all available space while offering the top-quality sound Sonos has become known for. The Symfonisk has a tweeter-and-woofer combo and offers similar sound to the Sonos One, plus it can join an existing Sonos speaker group. Personalize your speaker by popping off the front and choosing one of a number of pieces of art available at IKEA. $199. ikea.com

The Sense is the top-ofthe-range smartwatch from Fitbit, offering a heart monitor and blood oxygen reading. Other features include sleep monitoring, six days of battery life and an accompanying app to track your metrics. It works with both Android and iOS devices as well as Alexa, offering a raft of ways to keep track of your activity and monitor your health. From $229.95. fitbit.com

ANKER NEBULA SOLAR PORTABLE PROJECTOR This rechargeable wireless projector is as well-suited to camping trips as it is to your backyard or living room. It offers three hours of battery life on a single charge, enough to watch all but the longest movies in one go, and can project 1080p images up to a screen size of 120 inches. Even more impressive for a portable device, it has integrated three-watt speakers, which you can use like Bluetooth speakers, and it connects to popular streaming services. The Solar Portable measures 7.6 by 7.6 by 2.3 inches and weighs just under 50 ounces. $599.99. seenebula.com

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

A Destination for Bold Ambitions Kimpton Hotel Monaco DC in Penn Quarter/Chinatown is a legacy, evolved. HOUSED IN AN UNABASHEDLY DRAMATIC HISTORIC BUILDING, guests feel frissons of possibility amid the opulent architecture and down each vibrant corridor at Kimpton Hotel Monaco DC. The observant and

excitable need only let their senses be their guide. Of particular note: the worldly approach to service and attitude-led dining at Dirty Habit restaurant, located within the hotel. The Hotel Monaco delights discerning

travelers with exemplary service and style with bold, colorful and modern design against the backdrop of stunning historic architecture. Constructed 1839–1865 as the city’s original General Post Office, this National Historic Landmark captivates travelers with its soaring ceilings, grand marble spiral staircases, dramatically decorated hallways, specious rooms with giant windows and impossibly tall ceilings, and beautiful period architectural details. Taking up an entire city block, the hotel is the definition of expression. Guests are gifted with endless opportunity to explore and discover an inspiring tableaux created for dreams and schemes, business and pleasure. Its location is equally sought after by culture aficionados and political players.

SERVICES & AMENITIES • Daily morning complimentary coffee and tea service in our lobby living room • Hosted daily wine hour with chef favorites and local beer in the living room • Signature Kimpton animal print robes • Onsite 24-hour fitness center featuring cardio and resistance equipment • Gaiam yoga mats in every room, and access to 24-hour yoga and Pilates TV channel • 100 percent pet-friendly with no pet fees or restrictions • Kimpton Kids: complimentary welcome amenities and games upon arrival • Forgot it? We’ve Got It! amenities, including toiletries, personal items and grooming appliances • IHG® Rewards Club members get complimentary high-speed WiFi throughout the hotel during every stay

Kimpton Hotel Monaco DC is located on F Street, between 7th and 8th streets, across the street from Gallery Place Chinatown Metro Station and seven blocks from Union Station, just a 10-minute cab ride from Reagan National Airport and 35 minutes from Washington Dulles International Airport. Additionally, as it is in the heart of Penn Quarter, the city’s vibrant downtown arts and theater district, the hotel is just a one-block walk to Capital One Arena, Shakespeare Theatre, Ford’s Theatre, National Museum of American Art and across the street from the National Portrait Gallery. Playfully dramatic, the Monaco Washington DC is the ideal location for meetings and events featuring three meeting rooms with more than 7,000 square feet of stylized meeting space. The rooms incorporate much of the original architectural and design elements, including decorative square boxes

of gold leaf on the walls, and original cast iron details in ceiling and windows. Located adjacent to the hotel in the historic mailroom and courtyard will be Dirty Habit, a 316seat luxe restaurant and bar that offers a vivid social scene centered around expertly crafted cocktails, innovative social plates, edgy design and an expansive urban patio. Executive Chef Edgar Escalante’s thoughtful menu focuses on an international culinary cuisine with French, Latin and Spanish techniques and an Asian flavor point of view. The globally influenced seasonal cuisine is served with whimsical flair, equally suited for happy hour, sit-down dinners and late-night bites. Dirty Habit’s bar team lead by Roberta Scampoli assembles an inventive bar program that features house creations crafted with unexpected ingredients and distinctive serving vessels.

• Flat-screen TVs, on-demand movies and high-speed wireless internet in every room • Same-day laundry and drycleaning service • In-room dining from Dirty Habit • Atelier Bloem oversized bath products, hairdryers and makeup mirrors in all guestrooms • Iron and full-sized board, inroom safe and available minibar • 300-thread-count Egyptian cotton Frette linens • Complimentary PUBLIC Kimpton bikes available for guest use

LEARN MORE AT monaco-dc.com

WINE & SPIRITS

Members Only Private wine clubs entice enthusiasts with a sumptuous setting for sipping their favorites. BY KELLY MAGYARICS

f you have ever been on a long layover in an unfamiliar city or just wanted a place to relax and unwind over a glass or two but didn’t have any intel on great wine bars, a smattering of luxe locations in Europe (and now the United States) can fulfill your oenophile fantasies. WineBANK is a collection of membership-based wine clubs launched in 2008 by founder Christian Ress, who also co-owns Balthasar Ress wine estate in Germany’s Rheingau region. At the core of its concept are swanky lounges and vaults with temperature-controlled lockers where members and their guests can store and sip bottles and magnums sans corkage fee while sinking into sumptuous seating. Those who join wineBANK enjoy reciprocity with every other location; currently there are eight locations in Germany and Austria including Hamburg, Frankfurt, Vienna and Baden, with four more planned for the next year. Last summer the company launched its first stateside location, wineLAIR, in Washington, D.C.’s West End neighborhood, a 20-minute ride from Reagan National Airport and a 45-minute ride from Dulles International Airport. The staffed, 5,500-square-foot lounge has 358 storage lockers in a vaulted space, as well as self-serve niceties like wine glasses, coolers, decanters and mineral water. Seating options include tufted green leather banquettes and armchairs, high-top tables and private dining rooms. And if your locker is all out of, say, red Burgundy, or you have a penchant for bourbon that evening, you can order a selection of spirits or wines from the full-service bar, focused on old-world and California selections like the 2010 JeanMichel Guillon Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Champonnets” and Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare Port Ellen, an incredibly rare Islay single malt from a defunct distillery.

globaltravelerusa.com SEPTEMBER 2021

WineLAIR partnered with renowned chef Ris LaCoste, owner, RIS, to offer a selection of menu items, and there are also cheese and charcuterie boards on which to nibble. “WineLAIR is the perfect location to host guests, have meetings and show off the gems in your wine collection,” said partner Ron Wight. “Ship them to us and we’ll stock your locker, or tell us what you’d like in your locker and we’ll stock it for you.” Monthly programming in D.C., including master classes, tastings and winemaker dinners, will soon be joined by trips to global wine regions. The next location of wineLAIR is planned for Austin, Texas. In the meantime, members stepping into the D.C. locale can sip their way around the world via their locker and then retire to a room next door at The Ritz-Carlton. Membership to wineLAIR starts at $500 a month, with a $5,000 initiation fee, and includes one locker, three private member’s cards and six guest access passes.

Private Collections: Wine lockers in the Washington, D.C., wineLAIR PHOTO: © REY LOPEZ

WEALTH

Return on Investment With historically low yields, income investors rethink bonds.

BY DAVID PILAITIS, CFP, AIF

PHOTO: © PATCOTILLOJR | DREAMSTIME.COM

CLASSIC STRATEGIES TO ACHIEVE HIGHER RETURN INCLUDE INCREASING STOCK (EQUITY) EXPOSURE; BUYING HIGH-YIELD BONDS, REAL ESTATE INVESTMENT TRUSTS OR MASTER LIMITED PARTNERSHIPS; OR BUYING PRIVATE PENSIONS (SINGLEPREMIUM IMMEDIATE ANNUITIES).

ields on high-quality bonds are at a 50-year low, and experienced investors, who might have enjoyed 5 to 10 percent yields on AAA bonds in the 1980s and 1990s, are now earning 1 to 3 percent. This has a dramatic impact on retirement income, creating a dilemma for many investors: Should I stay the course and accept the low yields (and the risk of having my bonds called) or look at other strategies to close the income gap? Some investors have large retirement nest eggs (or current income from other sources) which affords them the flexibility to maintain status quo with their bond investments. Many others, however, are not so fortunate and need to seek higher yields in order to generate enough income to cover monthly expenses. They are forced to change their approach, hoping to earn enough return in alternative assets to offset the loss in yield.

Classic strategies to achieve higher return include increasing stock (equity) exposure; buying high-yield bonds, real estate investment trusts or master limited partnerships; or buying private pensions (single-premium immediate annuities). Every product or strategy has pros and cons, and four out of these five examples increase investment risk. Buying an annuity is something many investors simply will not entertain given the liquidity constraints of the products. Investors own bonds for two core reasons: to generate income and provide safety of principal. While high-quality bonds continue to provide safety — acting like an insurance policy in portfolios by providing protection against loss — today’s environment essentially changes the income calculus, decreasing the premium (yield) one receives. Simply put, the cost of the insurance

(bonds) increased, and investors need to think differently about risk profile, yield and protection. Furthermore, advisors who continue to recommend traditional portfolios that predominantly use bonds to buffer equity volatility and who charge fees for this advice might rethink their value proposition. For example, if bonds yield 1.5 percent per year and an advisor charges 0.5 percent for advice, the advisor is earning 33 percent of the return (assuming little to no growth on the bonds over the next five to seven years). Some argue this is not a fair revenue-sharing model. The ideal investment strategy will vary based on individual income needs and risk profile, but given the current low interest rate, it seems rational for investors to challenge the conventional use of bonds. They should question whether it makes sense to keep or acquire bonds with historically low returns in their portfolios.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice. Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

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SPAS

Oasis of Calm Retreat into luxurious stillness at The Rittenhouse Spa & Club. BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

Mood Lighting: Relaxation lounge PHOTO: © THE RITTENHOUSE HOTEL

THE RITTENHOUSE SPA & CLUB The Rittenhouse 210 W. Rittenhouse Square Philadelphia, PA 19103 tel 215 790 2500 therittenhousespaclub.com

he Rittenhouse has long stood out as one of Philadelphia’s finest hotels, centrally located in one of the city’s poshest neighborhoods. Needless to say, I knew I was in for an afternoon of luxurious pampering when I hopped in my car and headed down I-95 from my suburban home to the heart of the City of Brotherly Love. As I drove through the seemingly endless roadwork on the highway, I realized just how long it had been since I’d driven this once-familiar route into the city as a result of the pandemic. Of course I was eager for the relaxation and bliss that was in my future, but it was also a welcome feeling to head back into Philadelphia for a moment of normalcy. The Rittenhouse sits directly on Rittenhouse Square, one of the five original squares planned by Philadelphia’s founder, William Penn. Surrounded by high-rise luxury buildings, fine-dining restaurants and high-end shopping, the tree-filled square attracts Philadelphians and tourists of all ages to enjoy an oasis in the city. Named for astronomer

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and clockmaker David Rittenhouse, the square’s walkways run diagonally, beginning at the park’s four corners and meeting at a central oval. Much like the city overall, Rittenhouse Square is also chock-full of art, with noteworthy outdoor sculptures including Antoine-Louis Barye’s Lion Crushing a Serpent and Paul Manship’s 1911 Duck Girl. But speaking of oases, the green space of Rittenhouse Square wasn’t the one beckoning me on that July afternoon. Mine sat just opposite, instead overlooking the plaza. Parking couldn’t have been easier, and I was out of my car, through the lobby and in the elevator on my way to bliss in no time. The spa opens into a bright, spacious lobby, with the spa shop and a sitting area to the right and reception and the salon space to the left. The Rittenhouse Spa & Club offers a complete line-up of spa and salon services, a saltwater pool, a steam room and an outdoor deck. As I walked through the fitness center with the spa attendant, I thought to myself how well-equipped it was, even boasting a few Peloton bikes. It’s

like she could read my mind, commenting to me, “Don’t concern yourself with the gym; you’re here for relaxation!” Dubbing itself “ingredientconscious,” the spa prides itself on the quality of the products used in its services, sourcing exclusive partners to find high-quality, effective products. This was a draw for me, and I took time to learn more about some of the brands utilized. There’s Kypris, featuring holistic, high-performance, organic, sustainably grown ingredients formulated using green biotechnology. Zents is hydrating, healing and ultra-gentle in 10 mindful aromas; and Clove & Hollow is affordable, cruelty-free vegan cosmetics for all skin tones. I appreciated that the spa took the time to describe the background of the products used on its website and in its literature. Another standout from my experience is the staff. From the minute I entered to a warm and genuine welcome, it continued from there. The staff attendant showed me around, found me a cozier robe and smaller slippers and was there after my treatment with makeup wipes for the mascara that had smudged under my eyes. Rox, my therapist, was thorough, walking me through my treatment step by step, engaging in easygoing conversation and checking in regularly without being obtrusive. As I checked out, one of the front desk receptionists went out of his way to check and see if the rain had arrived yet. Justin Mills, spa director, made it a point to offer a personal hello. I always look to try a spa’s signature treatments. I was torn between the 1000 Roses Facial — which uses Bulgarian roses to transform imbalanced complexions into glowing softness — and the Rittenhouse Luxe Ritual. I ultimately chose the latter, a 120-minute body ritual that includes a full-body exfoliation, body wrap, hot oil scalp treatment and a hydrating shea butter massage. Decisions, decisions, but I don’t think I could have gone wrong either way. For two hours I gave in to relaxation and the skills of Rox. Even the exfoliation was relaxing, and I was absolutely blissful as she deeply massaged my scalp as I lay wrapped in plastic and sheets while soothing ingredients imbued themselves into my skin. How relaxed was I? To start, each person I encountered on my way out of the spa and hotel noted how relaxed I looked. And then,

Relax and Revive: Pool (top), and couple’s spa (bottom) PHOTOS:: © THE RITTENHOUSE HOTEL

even the aforementioned road construction coupled with rushhour traffic and a summer thunderstorm on my way home couldn’t dampen my Zen. Make sure to put a visit to The Rittenhouse Spa & Club and a stroll through Rittenhouse Square at the top of your Philadelphia to-do list.

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

GOLF

Warming Up Making new friends is easy at Heron Creek Golf & Country Club. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Daybreak: Hole 2 Marsh Course PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

HERON CREEK GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB 5301 Heron Creek Blvd. North Port, FL 34287 tel 941 240 5100 heroncreekgcc.com

f you have not seen the movie Me, Myself & Irene, I suggest you do. I played golf with some of the “finest people from the state of Rhode Island” when I visited the Sarasota area last February. My buddy from Ireland, Aidan McNulty, and I were joined by Doug and Sandy for the first tee time of the morning. I could not figure why Aidan selected the course, 30–40 minutes south of Siesta Key, when so many courses are nearby, let alone my GPS taking me on a wild goose chase as I approached the club. The sun had not even come up as we drove, and we arrived at daybreak with a glorious sunrise on the first tee. Aidan had to hit a few balls to warm up, and after that the gent in the pro shop told us to go to the first tee of the Marsh Course. In our overexcitement to be the first off as a twosome, we blew by it in our carts (we each had our own) and passed the twosome we were to play (we were not told about that). After a tongue-lashing by the starter — and a few displeasing frowns from Sandy and Doug — we were back on track to be the first off, as a foursome this time. Heron Creek is a fine facility with three nine-hole courses, which certainly helps the variety and pace of play. Legendary Ohio native Arthur Hills, who died this past May at age 91, designed the course. Hills designed more than 200 courses in his career, many in the Sunshine State, Ohio and Michigan. It is said when he started as a golf

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architect in 1966, he took out an ad in the Toledo Yellow Pages, and the first course he designed was Brandywine Country Club in Toledo, in 1967. He was a big believer in the risk and reward holes, and it was my plan to show our friends from Rhode Island some “Philly moves” on the course that early morning. HOLE 1 MARSH COURSE 522 yards, par 5 As we became acquainted with Doug and Sandy, a beautiful sunrise welcomed us at this demanding par-5 dogleg right. After the guys took a stab and had some decent drives, Sandy came up a little short and was disappointed with her showing. My shot was a little right but safe; unfortunately, my second shot with my 3-wood stayed on the right side, clipping a tree and landing in a terrible spot behind a trunk. All I could do was get out and flip up the ball, avoiding the large sand trap. With each shot, the sky became brighter and brighter (I had brought a pair of shorts as backup if it warmed up a bit). No great scores, but we all had a chance to warm up and feel more comfortable playing together.

HOLE 2 MARSH 434 yards, par 4 Off the tee box you need to negotiate your way around the wetlands on the left while staying inbounds on the right. The rest of the team hit equally good drives. Doug seemed to have his mojo back, and Sandy as well. My approach was spot-on, landing squarely on the green … which made Aidan a bit more nervous. Doug, too, had a clean shot to the green, which allowed us to both card pars, and I took the lead. Make sure you avoid the two bunkers on the right short of the green; they were the ruin of Aidan. HOLE 1 CREEK COURSE 366 yards, par 4 It was unseasonably cold in Florida this past winter, over Christmas hitting the coldest temperature recorded in 20 years. When we played at dawn in February, I wore long pants and a jacket to stave off the winter chill. But as I have been known to do, I quickly changed into shorts behind the cart — just as Aidan pulled up after purchasing a few beers. “What in God’s name are you doing?” he shouted. “There is a lady present!” Sandy did not even know I had changed — this is an old trick of mine, changing in parking lots and wherever I have to. Sandy and Doug were fine and already diving into their own roadies they’d brought with them — Sandy declaring, “It’s noon somewhere.” By now the sun was fully up and warm, which really made a difference. Although a significant pond runs from the tee box all along the left fairway, you can aim for the huge landing area if you fear the water. I took full advantage of this space. Aidan aimed more aggressively and shaved off a few yards. “You can’t do that at Concession,” I said, referring to a great course in Bradenton where all balls roll into the water hazards when you get tricky with your shot (see GT March 2021). Aidan took advantage of the extra yards and beat me with a par, while Sandy, Doug and I scored respectable double bogeys.

HOLE 5 CREEK 157 yards, par 3 The course pro calls this a “sporty hole” as it is all carry over marshy scrub or prickly palmettos, and sand surrounds the green on three of its four sides. This nine-hole course takes its name from the Mayakkahatchee Creek that runs through it. Not far from the course, a rare site holds archaeological significance as a Manasota Indian village which shows 10,000 years of occupation. I was able to secure a textbook 8-iron to the green for a glorious par while my teammates looked more like Lewis and Clark finding their errant shots in the high brush and sand. HOLE 9 CREEK 421 yards, par 4 A nice finishing hole for a great day, and even though we were a little rude to start, trying to jump ahead of Doug and Sandy, we agreed we really enjoyed playing with each other at Heron Creek. Golf is the great equalizer and brings people together to share in mishaps and glory.

The final hole requires you to aim your tee shot over the “Monocle Bunker” which lies just over the pond. A daring shot, but it will put the player within an easy iron to the green. We scattered our shots like shotgun pellets, but all safe and eager to attack the green. The pro suggests a high left-to-right shot on your approach to avoid the deep sand bunkers on the right. After putting in for bogeys all around, we bid our farewells, each saying how much we enjoyed playing together.

Changing Course: Hole 1 Creek Course (top), and Francis (bottom) PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

CHEFS

Seasonal Flair BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE? It would be a burger with extra bacon. We all know burger is one of the unhealthy foods out there, but we also know how good and satisfying this food is! One ingredient I hate to use has to be squid … and only because I’m allergic to it and I haven’t been able to cook with it.

escribed as a “reverberating restaurant,” it’s safe to assume that thriving beat at Dirty Habit, housed in Kimpton Hotel Monaco Washington DC, comes from the influences of Edgar Escalante, executive chef. Diners and imbibers can expect expertly crafted libations, innovative shared plates, edgy design and an inviting urban patio in D.C.’s bustling Penn Quarter. Escalante brings his Mexican flair to Dirty Habit’s international cuisine. However, while born and raised in Mexico City, he began his career at 19 as a cook in his family’s Italian restaurant. After working his way up to sous chef — the staff at the restaurant didn’t know his mother was the owner — he set off for Spain to hone his skills at Barcelona’s Michelin-starred Rocamoo. From Spain he launched a catering business in Mexico City before heading to SLS South Beach. Today he is changing dishes on a seasonal basis to evoke the flavors of winter, spring, summer and fall in our nation’s capital.

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WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY? I would definitely serve one dish that keeps evolving with me: watermelon tartare. And of course, my Mexican heritage has to be present every time. So you will definitely see some aguachiles, mole, some salsas and, of course, the crowd favorite, tacos! WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN? Carbonara — yes, you heard me right! Preparing carbonara was my first meal I ever made for myself when I was about 6 years old. After watching my grandma doing it a million times, I had to try it out; and let me tell you, it was a revelation for me.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY? I believe it has to be vegan risotto, because every time I want to explain it to someone, I always compare it to a techno song. It hits you right there on the spot; what makes it different is it comes with different layers of flavors, and that makes it unique. WHICH CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO DISAPPEAR? The idea of restaurants doing to-go food service is trendy now. I understand that, at this time, this is a usual thing to do because it helps the food industry bounce back, but I’m hoping once we get over this pandemic, restaurants lessen to-go food service. I believe it lowers the overall experience when eating the food out of the to-go containers. DIRTY HABIT Kimpton Hotel Monaco Washington DC 555 8th St. N.W. Washington, D.C. 20004 tel 202 449 7095 dirtyhabitdc.com

PHOTO: © STEVE LEGATO PHOTOGRAPHY

Chef Edgar Escalante embraces layers of flavors at Dirty Habit.

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CRUISING

Lake to Lake Explore the beauty of North America’s great inland sea. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

B To the Lighthouse: Michigan’s historic Round Island Light on Mackinac Island (above), and Marquette Harbor Lighthouse (right) PHOTOS: © PAUL LEMKE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SNEHITDESIGN | DREAMSTIME.COM

eyond ocean cruising and river cruising lies a third form of maritime travel — lake cruising — and the Great Lakes of North America offer the largest freshwater ecosystem on Earth for just such pleasures. Bordering the Canadian province of Ontario and eight American states, from Minnesota to New York, the Great Lakes’ system of five interconnected, land-encased gargantuan bodies of water holds more than one-fifth of the world’s fresh surface water. The shoreline is gigantic, too, measuring some 10,000 miles, studded with world-class natural, cultural, historic and urban sites. Nevertheless, far fewer major cruise lines venture here than into other major North American waterways such as the Mississippi River and the Alaskan coast. The handful of major operators who do cruise the Great Lakes are each worth considering. All are fairly new to these waters and come with recently launched, state-of-the-art expedition ships. Though luxurious to a point, these vessels all are on the small side, carrying a few hundred rather than a few thousand passengers. The Great Lakes’ cruising season, also diminutive, runs May through September, with July the warmest and sunniest month and late August through early September the choice for leaf-peepers. Viking Expeditions, one of the newest lines, employs one of the Lakes’ largest cruise ships, the 378-passenger Viking Octantis, a year-old exploration vessel featuring Zodiacs, kayaks and working labs for research scientists. More than 20 eight-day sailings are scheduled for the full 2022 season. The Milwaukee-to-Thunder Bay sailings visit three of the

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Great Lakes’ premier cruising attractions. The first is Mackinac Island on Lake Michigan, a renowned Victorian-era lake port and resort. Next comes Georgian Bay, the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve on Lake Huron, gilded with 30,000 islands. The third big stop is the Soo Locks at Sault Sainte Marie, a massive engineering feat that connects Lake Michigan to Lake Superior and serves thousands of international freighters yearly. In addition, Viking’s eight-day Toronto-to-Milwaukee trips visit Niagara Falls (Canadian side), Pointe Pelee National Parks (Ontario), Detroit and Traverse City/Sleeping Bear Dunes.

Another new operator in the Great Lakes, Victory Cruise Lines features premium exploration ships. Mississippi River maven American Queen Steamboat Co. recently purchased Victory, a good match since many a Mississippi traveler is eager to see what lies just to the north in America’s inland sea. Victory’s two 202-passenger vessels, Victory I and Victory II, promise mature passengers a relaxed, informative cruise and a free shore excursion in every port. Itineraries include an 11-day Detroit-to-Montréal voyage with stops at Niagara Falls, the Thousand Islands in the St. Lawrence Seaway, Cleveland and Detroit (home to the Ford Museum). Victory’s 11- and 13-day trips from Chicago to Toronto/Montréal add Mackinac Island and Georgian Bay (including Little Current and the world’s largest lake island, Manitoulin) to the mix, while a 16-day Chicago roundtrip (in June 2022 and 2023) explores the sights of Lake Michigan (the world’s largest lake in a single state) and Lake Superior (the world’s second-largest freshwater lake), along with port calls at Marquette, Mackinac Island, Duluth, Green Bay and Milwaukee. Another top international cruise line, French-based Ponant, teamed with Smithsonian for a Great Lakes journey Sept. 8–15, 2022, aboard the 184-passenger Le Bellot, one of Ponant’s top exploration yachts. This Toronto-to-Milwaukee voyage, with Smithsonian experts on board, visits Niagara

A SIXTH GREAT LAKE

Falls, Georgian Bay (from Parry Sound to Little Current), Mackinac Island, Lake Superior and much of the length of Lake Michigan, the world’s largest lake within the borders of a single country. Plus, Ponant promises a free shore excursion at every port. Want a taste of all the big sites in all five lakes? Try German-based Hapag-Lloyd Cruises and its 230-guest Hanseatic Inspiration, an expedition ship that features three gourmet restaurants; expert lecturers; an English-speaking crew; spa treatments; and in-cabin binoculars, coffeemakers and Nordic walking poles. The ship makes five interconnected voyages May through June, from Boston to Toronto to Chicago to Windsor (Detroit), capped off by a 14-day June 23–July 6, 2022, Chicago-to-Toronto cruise that takes in every last Great Lake.

Georgian Bay, a large, lighthouse-dotted strait on the northeast side of Lake Huron, has been nicknamed The Sixth Great Lake — and for good reason, as it is 120 miles long, 50 miles wide and home to 30,000 islands — many enclosing their own lakes and islands within. Part of a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Georgian Bay is home to the world’s largest freshwater archipelago, containing the world’s largest freshwater beach and largest freshwater island, Manitoulin. Hiking and horseback riding opportunities abound, but above all, Great Lakes passengers will be mesmerized by the massive granite formations and windswept eastern pine trees that rake across Georgian Bay’s prized landscape, lapped by lake waters so blue a major paint company named one of its brightest blues in honor of the bay.

Ocean Blue: Sleeping Bear Dunes, Lake Michigan (top), and Indian Head Cove in Georgian Bay, Lake Huron (bottom) PHOTOS: © BENJAMIN SIMENETA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © VLAD GHIEA | DREAMSTIME.COM

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

FEATURE

globaltravelerusa.com SEPTEMBER 2021

Giving Back Charitable travel makes a positive impact on destinations and communities. BY KATIE MCELVEEN

Lending a Hand: The RitzCarlton’s Impact Experiences guests planting trees PHOTO: © MARRIOTT BONVOY

eturning from her first African safari several years ago, Janet Lewis remembers that while she was thrilled by the animal encounters, she wished the cultural component of the trip had focused more on philanthropy. “The connection with the local community was limited,” she recalled. “It also felt scripted and not at all authentic.” Then Lewis heard about Dazzle Africa, a Las Vegas-based nonprofit that, through its safaris, supports organizations that provide conservation, education and community development in the South Luangwa River Valley of Zambia. The difference? In addition to observing wildlife, travelers go behind the scenes with professionals like the Zambian Carnivore Progamme’s expert lion trackers who work to keep prides safe from poachers. They also observe the canine training team from Conservation South Luangwa, whose sniffer dogs are taught to detect the specific contraband regularly smuggled in and out of Zambia. “It’s a win-win,” said Stacy James, cofounder and executive director, Dazzle Africa. “Guests have an extraordinary, meaningful experience, and the community gets funding for needs such as a bush plane to track herds, clean water and college scholarships that will give young people the education they need to fill high-level jobs brought about by an expansion in wildlife tourism.” Lewis was so impressed with the experience, she’s about to embark on her third safari with Dazzle. “Dazzle’s partner-

ships allow us to spend real time with the people on the ground working to preserve South Luangwa,” she said. “It’s incredibly inspiring.” Lewis isn’t alone in wanting her travel to do more than light up her Instagram feed with smile-filled photos from exotic locales. According to a recent American Express survey, 59 percent of respondents agree they are interested in “philantourism,” the act of choosing a vacation or experience in order to support a destination through tourism.

back to the regions they’re visiting. Through the Good Travel with Marriott Bonvoy initiative, for instance, guests at W Bali Seminyak can assist hotel staff in creating meals from surplus food so it can be safely packaged and delivered to needy families in the community. Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa invites guests to help build coral frames which, once underwater, provide an environment where coral can regenerate. A post-work snorkeling tour of the site with marine biologists allows participants

“TRAVELERS HAVE GAINED A HUNGER TO CONTRIBUTE AND INTERACT WITH THE COMMUNITY IN A MORE POSITIVELY IMPACTFUL MANNER. THE TOURIST’S SCRIPT HAS FLIPPED FROM, ‘WHAT CAN I GET OUT OF THIS TRAVEL EXPERIENCE?’ TO ‘HOW CAN I GIVE BACK THROUGH THIS EXPERIENCE?’” — ANGIE RICE, COFOUNDER, BOUTIQUE TRAVEL ADVISORS

Angie Rice, cofounder, Boutique Travel Advisors in Arizona, isn’t surprised by the numbers. “Travelers have gained a hunger to contribute and interact with the community in a more positively impactful manner,” she said. “The tourist’s script has flipped from, ‘What can I get out of this travel experience?’ to ‘How can I give back through this experience?’” Inspired by their guests’ philanthropic leanings, hotels, tour operators and cruise lines launched a wide array of experiences that give guests the opportunity to give

to understand the impact of their work. The Ritz-Carlton’s Impact Experiences are tailored to the needs of their local communities and include designing and creating greeting cards for children living near The Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay resort in Jamaica and, at the company’s Okinawa, Japan, property, planting coral. “We find that our guests are continually looking for new opportunities to experience a destination, using travel as a vessel for transformation, education and growth,” said Donna McNamara, vice

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

Make a Difference: (Left to right) Ritz-Carlton volunteers cleaning the beach, highlights of Scotland tour in partnership with Invisible Cities, and spaces for local artists provided by Hyatt Loves Local PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT BONVOY, © INTREPID TRAVEL, © HYATT

president and global brand leader, The Ritz-Carlton. “Impact Experiences are one of the initiatives I am most proud of, particularly as we look to the year ahead when our guests will be focused more than ever before on giving back.” In May 2021, as part of its continued effort to revitalize communities and local businesses recovering from the COVID-19 pandemic, Hyatt Hotels reintroduced Hyatt Loves Local with more than 160 collaborations that include volunteer opportunities at animal shelters through Andaz Delhi (India), Grand Hyatt Goa (India) and Parisi Udvar Hotel Budapest (Hungary). Hyatt also provides ways for guests to help their communities in other ways: Grand Hyatt Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Hyatt Centric Center City Philadelphia and Hyatt Regency Baltimore, among others, provide retail space where local artists, makers and artisans can show and sell their products, allowing small business owners a way to benefit from increased travel to their cities. The Travel Corporation, which comprises more than 30 well-known travel brands such as Insight Vacations, Uniworld Cruises and Red Carnation Hotels, launched a series of conscientious experiences under an initiative called Make Travel Matter. Beyond cool volunteer opportunities like taking U by Uniworld passengers fishing for plastic in Amsterdam’s canals,

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MTM experiences support local businesses by sharing their stories and bringing them customers. One example is Insight Vacations’ visit to Brlog, Croatia’s first women-owned co-op brewery, to try a selection of the natural craft beers and hear the inspiring story of how founders Maja Šepetavec and Ana Teskera built their enterprise. Becoming an MTM experience isn’t easy. “Our teams are very hands-on finding MTM experiences,” said Guy Young, president, Insight Vacations. “They ensure that local organizations meet robust criteria that includes advancing at least one of the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals.” Smaller resorts and tour companies also work to connect clients with their communities. One is Tierra del Volcan, whose trips deep into Ecuador’s northern Andes include a number of service projects. “Through adventure activities, travelers become more sensitive to the environment that surrounds them,” said founder Jorge Perez. “The conservation group service project in the Cotopaxi area will support sustainable initiatives and conservation efforts. This program reinforces private, community, and local government efforts to preserve one of the most visited areas in Ecuador: The Cotopaxi National Park and its buffer zone.” While experts applaud travelers looking to help local communities, studies show that, in some cases, uninformed volunteers can do more harm than good. “Those seeking volunteer experiences while on the road need to

ensure that what they will be doing doesn’t take away a paid job from a local person,” said Matt Berna, managing director of North America, Intrepid Travel. Though Intrepid doesn’t facilitate volunteer opportunities for travelers, the company does work with a number of enterprises that directly — and often creatively — support community development. One is the walking tours offered on the company’s Highlights of Scotland Tour, run in partnership with Invisible Cities, a social enterprise that supports and trains people who have experienced homelessness to become tour guides in their own city. For small nonprofits like Invisible Cities, a partnership with a large travel corporation can have lasting impact. Ten years ago Sandals Resorts International began to promote Pack for a Purpose, which encourages travelers to pack five pounds of needed items such as antibiotic ointment, soccer balls, reading glasses and school supplies in their suitcases. The resort then delivers supplies to needy schools, clinics and orphanages. Rebecca Rothney, the group’s founder and director, said the collaboration enabled Pack for a Purpose to expand its service to a level she never would have thought possible. “Sandals’ support is part of the reason why the global travel community has donated more than 434,249 pounds of the supplies,” she noted. “Giving back is a way of showing gratitude to your destination and the people who live there. Our goal is to make it as easy as possible for travelers to say, ‘Thank you.’”

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Room to Improve Hotels take steps to prioritize diversity in the industry.

BY SHERYL NANCE-NASH

otel diversity isn’t where it could be, but it’s a work in progress. Fueled with new energy that emerged from the racial reckoning of 2020, there’s more of a sense of urgency … and with good reason. There’s plenty to do when it comes to diversity, equity and inclusion in the hotel industry. Black people account for one in five American hotel jobs, according to the U.S. Department of Labor. But they hold only one in 60 positions at a vice president or higher level, according to a report last year, “Black Representation in Hospitality Industry Leadership 2020,” from the nonprofit organization the Castell Project. They hold 1.5 percent of overall hospitality industry executive positions compared to 5 percent of executive positions

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across all industries. According to research from MogulRecruiter, women and minorities comprise 60 percent and 40 percent, respectively, of the U.S. hotel frontline. However, only 20 percent of U.S. hotel general managers are women and 10 percent minorities. Blacks represent 15 percent of the frontline and only 1 percent of hotel general managers. “It took us a few years to analyze the data, but we have developed algorithms to rank diverse pools of talent and predict their worth and annual compensation. Today, our talent database has over 500,000 elite hospitality leaders in supervisor roles and above, featuring over 50 percent women and 33 percent who identify as minorities. However, our work is just getting started,” said Alex Mirza, founder

PHOTO: © IURII KRASILNIKOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

FEATURE

NO DOUBT THERE’S MUCH WORK TO BE DONE ON THE DIVERSITY FRONT, BUT THAT’S NOT TO SAY THERE’S NOTHING GOING ON. IN FACT, “UNLIKE BEFORE 2020, DIVERSITY IS AMONG THE TOP MANAGEMENT PRIORITIES.” — ALEX MIRZA, FOUNDER AND CEO, MOGUL

Inclusive Connections: Alex Mirza, founder and CEO, Mogul (top); Hotel 50 Bowery and its Welcome to Chinatown mugs (below) PHOTOS: © ALEX MIRZA, © HOTEL BOWERY

and CEO, Mogul, a venture-backed technology company specializing in the hotel industry whose mission is to perfect meritocracy and accelerate diversity. Mirza is passionate about diversity. In 2007, when he was senior vice president of corporate development at Hilton, he presented to the board of directors at a Waldorf Astoria resort in Phoenix. “After a very thorough question and answer period that followed my presentation, I undid my tie and walked to the valet to retrieve my rental car. The valet crew was out retrieving

vehicles, so I waited. In a span of a few minutes, not one but three white men handed me the car keys to their vintage sports cars, mistaking me for the valet,” said Mirza. He passed the keys over to the actual valet who quipped, “This is one of the few places where they trust brown people.” It turns out all three were CEOs of real estate and finance companies and were frequent guests at the resort. “While the implicit bias of this experience was demoralizing, it pales in comparison to the explicit barriers that women and ethnic minorities face in reaching the senior ranks of the hospitality industry,” said Mirza, a former CEO of Cachet Hotels with more than 20 years of experience as a senior executive in hospitality and gaming. The NAACP publishes a report of its grades of hotel operators and their franchisees on minority representation of skilled versus unskilled labor, property management and corporation ranks. In 2019 the NAACP found little progress had been made since the organization’s 2005 evaluation and gave Hilton, Hyatt and Wyndham each a C and Marriott a B. For top management representation, the range of grades was from C (the best score) to many Fs, said Mirza.

No doubt there’s much work to be done on the diversity front, but that’s not to say there’s nothing going on. In fact, “Unlike before 2020, diversity is among the top management priorities,” said Mirza. It is indeed. Here we highlight how some hotels are taking on the challenge of creating a more diverse workforce and partnering with diverse communities.

HYATT HOTELS Hyatt has a tradition of diversity. In 1967 the Hyatt Regency in Atlanta was the only hotel in the area to welcome the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. and the Southern Christian Leadership Conference, earning it the moniker the Hotel of Hope. In 1998 the company established the Hyatt Diversity & Inclusion Council in the Americas long before it was trending. In 2017 the company put some teeth in its diversity, equity and inclusion efforts by linking executive annual incentives to DEI progress. In the wake of racial strife last year, Hyatt’s Change Starts Here initiative vowed to accelerate DEI across the business. It went a step further this summer with its World of Care

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through which, among other initiatives, Hyatt is committing to increased communication and accountability around DEI. “At Hyatt we know that we achieve our greatest success when all colleagues feel confident bringing their whole selves to work each day. These diverse backgrounds and points of view fuel innovation and connect us more closely to all who are in our care,” said Malaika Myers, Hyatt’s chief human resources officer, when the report was released. “We recognize there is much progress to be made — for

Work For All: Debra Punke, chief human resource officer, Concord Hospitality Enterprises PHOTO: © CONCORD HOSPITALITY

our company, our industry and our global society. Sharing our diversity data publicly and tying executive compensation to progress will ensure DE&I is further prioritized and embedded throughout the company so that Hyatt can truly reflect the diverse communities it serves and contribute to a more just world.”   Hyatt’s U.S. leadership is 75 percent white. Among the company’s announced goals for 2025, it hopes to double representation of women and POC in key leadership roles, contribute $1 million to support Black communities in the United States through its foundation, and achieve 10 percent of Black spend as a percentage of all minority- and women-owned supplier spend. As the pandemic disproportionately affected minority-owned businesses, the Hyatt Loves Local program helps by providing complimentary space and resources to these businesses. For example, Hotel 50 Bowery, a JDV by Hyatt Hotel in New York City,

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is continuing its collaboration with the grassroots initiative Welcome to Chinatown, selling coffee mugs by its front desk for $15 with proceeds from sales going to support businesses and amplify voices in the city’s Chinatown district. In late 2020 the hotel also donated space to the female- and minorityrun organization to host a weekend-long art exhibition, raising $4,000 through ticket sales.

HILTON HOTELS CORP. Hotels are also broadening their reach. Earlier this year Hilton announced it will partner with the historically black liberal arts institution Morris Brown College and investment firm CGI Merchant Group on a $30 million hotel and hospitality training center on the Atlanta campus. “We want to make sure we sustain a relationship with this early talent pool so that when they are in the market for full-time roles, they know about us and the schools know about us and have seen our commitment during tough times,” said Laura Fuente, executive vice president and chief human resources officer, Hilton, speaking to Skift ahead of the announcement. “It starts by building those deep-rooted relationships and building the pipeline.” According to Skift, Hilton plans to achieve gender parity in leadership roles around the world by 2027 and have 25 percent ethnic diversity in U.S. leadership roles by then, too. Look for a public dashboard updated annually with reports on hiring, as well as tying executive compensation to progress. Skift reports Hilton has 17 percent ethnic diversity at corporate leadership roles in the United States, and women account for 37 percent of global leadership roles.

MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL Also earlier this year, the J. Willard and Alice S. Marriott Foundation and Howard University announced the creation of the Marriott-Sorenson Center for Hospitality Leadership in honor of recently deceased Marriott International president and CEO Arne Sorenson. The foundation will provide a $20 million endowment to launch the Center at Howard’s School of Business and will feature a program that expands educational and professional opportunities for Howard students and has a goal of developing future

hospitality executives. Furthermore, Marriott International announced the creation of the Arne M. Sorenson Hospitality Fund to help the industry build leadership talent in hospitality. Marriott is putting up the first donation, $1 million, and is inviting other companies, individuals and organizations from all industries to join in. According to reporting in Skift, Marriott plans to achieve gender parity in global leadership by 2025, up from its current rate of women accounting for 44 percent of leadership positions around the world.

CONCORD HOSPITALITY ENTERPRISES “Long before it became a trend, diversity and belonging was part of our company’s DNA,” said Debra Punke, chief human resource officer, Concord Hospitality Enterprises, a hotel development and management company. Concord’s mission, she said, “is to be a place to work for all, with emphasis on the ‘for all ’ because we know that if people feel safe and free to be authentic in the workplace, they will bring their best selves to work, which will fuel innovation and optimal performance. In other words, everyone wins!” Concord Hospitality’s management portfolio consists of 135 premium select-service, lifestyle/boutique and full-service hotels with more than 20,000 rooms in the United States and Canada. The company has eight affinity groups and a Diversity & Belonging Council, and during all the racial turmoil it ran a six-month campaign to end racism. “It was powerful, from candid conversations with our CEO to team member testimonials about our company’s practice of inclusion and equal treatment for all,” said Punke. The push right now is on more intentional recruiting practices to increase diversity among the most senior positions in the company, said Punke. “Currently, our diversity is 20 percent. We’re looking to get that to at least 40 percent.” They are hoping to get there in part by partnering with workforce development groups, mentoring programs, tapping employees for referrals of friends and family, and being flexible. Punke said, “We’ve never had a stringent stance that one must have a degree to succeed in our business. It’s more about heart and passion for service.” As for the company’s diversity goals, “It’s a journey, not a destination.”

FAIRMONT SAN FRANCISCO Fairmont San Francisco’s commitment to DEI includes involvement in Equality and Inclusion in Hospitality, Inc., a nonprofit organization committed to increasing the economic selfsufficiency of Black workers by expanding their hospitality-related employment opportunities while providing unionized hospitality employers access to skilled workers. The hotel has been a long-time supporter of the Primed & Prepped Culinary Arts Program that provides youth of color ages 14–24 with the support to break down employment barriers and enhance leadership skills. The program focuses on hospitality management and culinary arts to grow into an internship and job. As part of the hotel’s focus on shedding light on its DEI pillar, Fairmont San Francisco started

a Candid Conversation Series with speakers such as Tom Heinz, executive director, East Bay Innovations, an organization that provides personalized support to individuals with disabilities, to have candid conversations with the organization’s leaders. There are always celebrations, be it for Pride, Cinco de Mayo or Juneteenth.

CRYSTAL SPRINGS RESORT Going the extra mile can lead to more diversity. The Crystal Springs Resort in Hamburg, New Jersey, developed an innovative hiring program in partnership with Paterson, New Jersey, which is a majority Hispanic community. The Paterson Workforce Development initiative was born in 2019 out of a relationship developed by Crystal Springs Resort COO Robby Younes and the

mayor of Paterson, New Jersey, Andre Sayegh. They teamed up along with Passaic County to provide employment opportunities to those with ties to the municipal Workforce Development division. Since the spring of 2019 the resort has employed more than 50 people from this program, ranging from housekeepers and laundry attendants to dishwashers, line cooks, sous chefs and maintenance technicians. Many of these placements involved those seeking to reclaim their vitality after episodes of economic, legal or personal challenge. Crystal Springs provides daily carpool shuttle transportation from Paterson to the resort and continually assists these employees with ride-sharing services. They have also provided housing to those who have qualified and are able to contribute a monthly rent payment.

Diverse Workforce: Staff from Grand Cascades Lodge at Crystal Springs Resort PHOTO: © CRYSTAL SPRINGS RECORT

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ST. LUCIA Rising from the Sea: St. Lucia’s Petit Piton PHOTO: © JASON ONDREICKA | DREAMSTIME.COM

business destinations 48

KRAKÓW

GULF SHORES

COPENHAGEN

MILAN

QUÉBEC CITY

leisure destinations 62

PHILADELPHIA

ST. LUCIA

BOSTON

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DESTINATION ONE | KRAKÓW

The Beat Goes On Kraków hums with industry, culture and youthful energy.

Art and Architecture: (Left to right) St. Mary`s Basilica in Main Square, and a horse-drawn carriage passing by art for sale in Old Town PHOTOS: © ROMAN SLAVIK | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CHRIS MOUYIARIS | DREAMSTIME.COM

BY ALLIE MOORE

hilltop castle situated at a bend in the Vistula River, a medieval Old Town accented by a quirky clock tower from which a trumpet player toots his horn every hour, and a reputation for hearty beer and pierogies comprise the heart of Kraków. This city in southern Poland was mostly spared from destruction during World War II and therefore retains a healthy amount of its medieval charm. But despite the city’s rich and turbulent history, bringing a broad mix of cultural influences, Kraków embraced the vicissitudes of each era and quietly moved to the forefront of major industries. Poland continues to welcome a large talent pool of tech entrepreneurs, with new startups popping up throughout the country and a 2017 designation by the World Bank as the third-best place to launch and grow a startup company. A young, skilled workforce — most of whom can speak English fluently — and low rents enticed major companies to move parts of their operations to Poland. Kraków draws employees with its small-town feel and slower pace of life, a stark contrast

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from busier cities like Warsaw. In fact, according to the MOTIFE Krakow IT Market Report 2021, the Kraków technology ecosystem — one of the fastest-growing and most mature technology locations in Europe — boasts a talent pool close to 50,000 IT specialists and supports dynamic growth, despite the pandemic. The Kraków IT market is diverse in terms of industries, with a higher concentration in sectors such as financial technology, enterprise applications and network systems. Ten new IT players establish a presence in Kraków every year. The robust tech ecosystem boasts a well-connected network of incubators, mentors, investors and organizations collaborating with startups, such as the Foundation Supporting #OMGKRK or Krakow Technology Park. Investment support is key, with 15 of the most successful startups born in Kraków raising more than $460 million in total funding since their creation. Brainly — the world’s largest social learning network, with 200 million unique users monthly — is the most successful Kraków

startup, receiving $148.5 million in funding since its inception in 2009. Other successful startups in the city include Zendesk Sell (formerly BASE), a company that builds software designed to improve customer relationships; CallPage, software that converts web visitors into sales calls, with a client list of more than 3,000 companies worldwide; and Airly, developer of an air quality mapping system, which in 2020 received investments of $2 million from the family of Richard Branson. Elsewhere in technology, the SOLARIS National Synchrotron Radiation Center opened in 2018 as one of the world’s most advanced particle accelerator research centers. With a campus located about five miles outside of Kraków’s Old Town, the center welcomes scientists to conduct synchrotron radiation research in various disciplines such as nanotechnology, crystallography and pharmacology. To prepare Kraków and the province of Małopolska (of which Kraków is the capital) for the influx of new companies and employees, Kraków Airport developed a detailed 20-year plan to create up to 10,000 new jobs; expand the airport’s main terminal; and construct a new 9,000-foot runway. Based on the plan, airport officials anticipate a capacity of up to 12 million travelers each year by 2036. In 2019 Kraków Airport became a new base airport for Hungarian airline Wizz Air, offering access to 12 new routes to locations like London, Nice and Oslo. Considered one of the finest cultural capitals in the world, Kraków blends its modern business know-how with a wealth of historic treasures to explore. Spend some time in this innovative city and you will certainly cultivate a deeper appreciation of art, history and architecture.

LODGING

DINING

Betmanowska Main Square Residence It doesn’t get more central than these luxurious apartments and suites which overlook Kraków’s storied Market Square in the center of Old Town.

Art Restaurant A contemporary eatery just down the hill from Wawel Castle, this winner of a 2020 World Luxury Restaurant Award serves exquisite cuisine and excellent wine in a cozy atmosphere.

Rynek Główny 44, Old Town $$

Kanonicza 15, Old Town $$$$

Mercure Kraków Fabryczna City & Conference Centre Opening this month in a former vodka factory, the 4-star hotel welcomes business and leisure travelers with a swimming pool, fitness center, bar and restaurant, plus 18 multifunctional meeting rooms. Convenient to tram and bus stops and key attractions.

Garden Restaurant The Garden Restaurant charms guests with unforgettable flavors, excellent wines and a choice of seating in the courtyard garden or indoors by the fireplace. Start the day with an expansive Swedish buffet breakfast.

Ulica Fabryczna 13 $$$ Metropolitan Boutique Hotel Situated between the Jewish Quarter and Old Town, Metropolitan occupies a renovated 19th-century building and comprises 51 guestrooms and eight suites. Newly designed conference rooms accommodate business meetings, seminars, trainings or conferences.

Art & Garden Residence, Krowoderska 71 $$$ Zielona Kuchnia A half-mile from Old Town, this clandestine garden restaurant serves contemporary Polish and European cuisine along with vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Try the homemade herb gnocchi with goat cheese. Ambrożego Grabowskiego 8, Piasek $$$

Joselewicza 19 $$

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Kraków Icons: Fountain and Cloth Hall PHOTO: © JACEK PLACEK | DREAMSTIME.COM

50 50

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PHOTO: © POLISH TOURISM ORGANIZATION

who resided at the spectacular Wawel Castle. The city overflows with legends, amazing historical architecture and art, as well as great leisure and entertainment options. Kraków is known for its cathedrals, Jewish history and rich university life. The Old Town has been a UNESCO World Heritage site for more than 40 years, and it enchants visitors at first sight. Kraków offers a deeper understanding and appreciation of Polish arts, history, culture, religion and architecture. At the same time, the city is full of young energy and business opportunities.

Director, Polish Tourism Organization

What most excites you about the future of Kraków? Kraków is doing an excellent job curbing air pollution, which was threatening the priceless historic architecture and the locals’ well-being. Kraków was the first city in Poland to prohibit burning coal and wood in 2019. The city introduced a fleet of electric buses and constantly grows the number of parks along Vistula River. The future of Kraków looks green.

What makes Kraków a magical city for both business and leisure? Kraków, one of the oldest cities in Poland, is the historic capital and former seat of Polish kings

What is your favorite aspect of the city? Whenever I visit Kraków, I get the impression of traveling in time. I also love the mix of cultural influences resulting from Poland’s

CHECKING IN WITH MAGDALENA ŻELAZOWSKA

turbulent past. Kraków’s diversity can be seen in the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz. This section of Kraków is home to several synagogues, a Jewish museum and a cemetery dating back to the 16th century. The famous movie Schindler’s List filmed here. Kazimierz hosts a renowned Jewish Cultural Festival each summer. It’s a perfect spot to taste local cuisine, which is full of surprises. Which attractions do you recommend for first-time visitors to get a true flavor of Kraków? Kraków’s Old Town is a must. It escaped much of the damage that ruined historical landmarks in other parts of the country during World War II. Kraków’s Market Square dates back to the 1200s and is a traditional European market square. It’s perfect for meeting, eating, shopping and strolling. The world’s oldest shopping mall, Cloth Hall, is perfect for hunting for local handicrafts. Wawel Castle is a popular stopping point for all who visit Poland. Its highlights include the treasury, armory and royal apartments with historic furnishings. St. Mary’s Church is another landmark. This outstanding Gothic church has an intricately carved wooden altarpiece and colorful stained glass, considered masterpieces, and the amount of gold on display is staggering. A trumpeter regularly plays a tune from the church tower, keeping a longstanding tradition.

Royal Residence: Wawel Castle PHOTO: © OLGA LUPOL | DREAMSTIME.COM

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INFO TO GO John Paul II Kraków-Balice International Airport lies approximately seven miles from the center of Kraków. Public transit makes it easy to access the city, as a train travels directly from the airport to Kraków’s central train station in 20–30 minutes for about $3. Purchase tickets from automatic machines on the train platform (via card) or from the conductor on board (in cash only). Three bus lines (208, 209 and 252) also connect the airport with the city in 50 minutes. Departure times are listed in the arrivals terminal. Purchase tickets at ticket machines at the bus stop or in the arrivals terminal (both by card) or from the bus driver (by cash only); a one-way ticket costs about $1.50. Travelers also can hire a rental car or book a private bus or taxi in advance via the airport’s website.

DIVERSIONS

History and Tradition: Restaurant in Kazimierz, the Jewish Quarter (top); and trumpet player inside St. Mary’s Basilica PHOTOS: © MIKOLAJ64 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LUCA ROGGERO | DREAMSTIME.COM

From majestic, medieval edifices to ancient legends of dragons, Kraków is a city built on history. Start in the fanciful Old Town, where the main square is made for people-watching. Stick around for the hourly trumpet call from the top of St. Mary’s Basilica, a tune that cuts off mid-melody to commemorate the death of a trumpeter reportedly killed during a 13th-century Mongol attack on the city. Atop the unmissable Wawel Hill stands Wawel Castle, one of Poland’s largest, where a confluence of architectural styles appropriately represents the castle’s current purpose as an art museum. Outside Old Town lies one of Kraków’s most visited districts: Kazimierz, or the Jewish Quarter. The area, formerly its own town in the Middle Ages, became a Jewish community in the 15th century. During World War II Nazi soldiers forcibly removed Jewish residents from the neighborhood, with only 10 percent of the Jewish population surviving the raids. Now the area preserves this important history while also celebrating its evolving alternative vibe with funky cafés, cool bars and thought-provoking street art, all among centuries-old synagogues. Rent a bike to experience one of the best ways to explore the areas surrounding Kraków. Follow the bike path along the banks of the Vistula River, eventually reaching the nearby countryside, where you can peacefully cycle for miles.

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JUST THE FACTS Time zone: GMT +2 Phone code: Country code: 48 City code: 12 Currency: Polish złoty Key industries: Agriculture, manufacturing, energy, information and communication technology, tourism

COMING AND GOING U.S. citizens with a passport valid for at least six months do not need a visa to enter Poland for stays of less than 90 days.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Polish

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STATESIDE | GULF SHORES

Natural Resources Gulf Shores invests in its greatest asset: the environment. BY TERESA BITLER

ourism, the largest industry in Gulf Shores, Alabama, employed more than 54,000 in travel-related jobs and pumped $5.2 billion into the economy in 2019. Anything that threatens the area’s beaches and environment, like a hurricane, can have a devastating impact on the economy. Over the years, Gulf Shores faced several devastating hurricanes, including Hurricane Ivan in 2004, but residents always knew what to expect — the power would be out for a while, the water would eventually recede and they could rebuild. But the 2010 Deepwater Horizon oil spill shook everyone, according to Kay Maghan, public relations manager, Gulf Shores & Orange

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Beach Tourism. No one knew what to expect. “We’re used to hurricanes, but an oil spill is a whole other deal,” she said. Within days of the drilling platform explosion that leaked approximately 134 million gallons of oil into the Gulf, most future visitors to Gulf Shores canceled their hotel reservations, and no new bookings were being made. Maghan said the community quickly realized that without the beach and Gulf waters, they had no tourism industry. It opened their eyes to how crucial it was to protect their environment. Ironically, the oil spill provided Gulf Shores and other affected areas with the funds to focus on sustainability. Just weeks after the April 20

disaster, scientists, economists and restoration experts began determining the extent of the damage, and a year later BP made its first $1 billion payment toward restoration. In total, the company responsible for the spill will pay trustees $8.8 billion over 20 years. Communities can propose projects which are then reviewed and funded by the trustees managing oil spill funds. Gulf Shores quickly proposed a plan for improvements to Gulf Shores State Park, including rebuilding an in-park hotel destroyed by Hurricane Ivan in 2004. Maghan called the Gulf State Park Enhancement Project a “gamechanger,” one that inspired residents and showed them what was possible with BP funds. A Hilton property, Lodge at Gulf State Park is the first FORTIFIED Commercial – Hurricane Bronze Level hotel in the world, an enhanced building standard put to the test when Hurricane Sally recently hit the area. While its neighbors sustained damage that forced them to close for up to nine months, the Lodge lost only

a few gutters. The 350-room hotel is also LEED-Certified Gold and features recycled Alabama building materials, reduced energy usage and a footprint one-third smaller than that of the original hotel. Additionally, the Lodge collects condensation from the HVAC system — up to 8,400 gallons per day in the summer — and uses it to replace water in the pool. Governor Kay Ivey called the property “the crown jewel of Alabama tourism” when it opened in 2018. The Gulf State Park Enhancement Project included an Interpretive Center that introduces visitors to the park; its nine ecosystems; and its 28 miles of trails, 13 of which are new, as well. There’s also a new Learning Campus with classroom space and student accommodations. As the Gulf State Park Enhancement Project progressed, the push to protect Gulf Shores’ natural assets snowballed, according to Maghan. In 2016 local officials, businesses and individuals started a beach litter program that morphed into the Leave Only Footprints program. During its first year of operations, Leave Only Footprints removed more than 161 tons of trash and materials from Gulf Shores’ and neighboring beaches. Meanwhile, Alabama Conservation Foundation launched several programs. The Share the Beach program encourages visitors to help in its conservation of the endangered sea turtles that nest on Alabama beaches May through October. Similarly, the foundation enlists the help of local restaurants in its oyster shell recycling program. To date, the foundation has collected nearly 16 million oyster shells and returned them to the ocean. Oyster shells provide habitats for other oysters and create reefs that provide habitats for other marine life and serve as natural breakwaters. The city of Gulf Shores itself is far from done when it comes to protecting the environment. It recently purchased land on the bay side of Little Lagoon to keep it from being developed, and it is construct-

ing a new facility with classrooms, learning laboratories, organic gardens, greenhouses, ropes courses, accessible trails and more. Scheduled to open in late 2022 or early 2023, the Gulf Coast Center for Ecotourism & Sustainability will also serve as the newest base for Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ambassadors of the Environment. In the program, participants will learn about nature and how to sustain it in Alabama and throughout the world. As the city’s vision continues to evolve, more sustainable projects will follow, with the ultimate goal to preserve what makes Gulf Shores such an incredible place: its environment. And all of this wouldn’t have been possible without the unfortunate threat to the environment in 2010. “Funding from the oil spill is allowing our communities to do things we never would have been able to otherwise,” Maghan said.

SCENIC DRIVES While the beautiful white sands are hard to leave, don’t miss the opportunity to explore. From Gulf Springs head west on the Alabama Coastal Connection Scenic Byway (State Route 180) to Fort Morgan, which played a significant role in the Battle of Mobile Bay in 1864. Then take the car-friendly Mobile Bay Ferry to Dauphin Island, home to Dauphin Island Sea Lab and Fort Gaines. Pick up the drive on SR 193 and continue along Mobile Bay as far north as time allows before heading back to Gulf Shores. Or enjoy the coastal views to the east. Take SR 182 to the Alabama-Florida border, stopping at Flora-Bama for oysters and live music. Across the border, continue on SR 292 to Gulf Beach Highway and turn right. At South Blue Angel Parkway, turn right again and skirt Naval Air Station Pensacola until you arrive at Pensacola Lighthouse & Maritime Museum or the National Naval Aviation Museum. Want to venture inland? Go east on SR 182 until you reach SR 161. Take it north to SR 180 and turn west. At Foley Beach Express turn north and follow it to US 98. Drive all the way to the coast and continue as far north as Spanish Fort. Believe it or not, this route is also part of the Alabama Coastal Connection.

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

MICE | COPENHAGEN

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Once Upon a Time Host a fabled business event in wonderful Copenhagen. BY BECCA HENSLEY

imagine that when writer Hans Christian Andersen mused, “Life itself is the most wonderful fairy tale,” he was standing at the edge of Copenhagen’s historic Tivoli Gardens, one of his favorite haunts, enlivened by the swirl of human happiness that surrounded him: children laughing; carousels spinning; games of chance played for prizes; lovers holding hands; hungry people whispering over sweets, hot drinks, beer and towering, open-faced smørrebrød, Denmark’s quintessential sandwich. That fairy tale lives on today at the second-oldest amusement park in the world, a spectacle of folly architecture, bakeries, gardens, rides, restaurants, puppet shows and joy … and which also happens to be one of the city’s most storied places to WITH VIKING HISTORY convene for business. AND A ROYAL FAMILY, IT’S Copenhagen itself reigns KNOWN FOR WORLD-CLASS as an utterly modern city on the sea. With Viking history GASTRONOMY, INGENIOUS and a royal family, it’s known for world-class gastronomy, DESIGN, AND HYGGE, THAT ingenious design, and hygge, STATE OF COZY CONTENTthat state of cozy contentment and conviviality that fuels the MENT AND CONVIVIALITY Danes. Set on a captivating THAT FUELS THE DANES. harbor and boat-brimming waterways; composed of timbered houses bright with flower-profuse window boxes along cobbled streets; home to castles, museums, contrasting modern architecture and its smaller-than-expected mermaid statue, the city pleases visitors instantly. Thankfully, the city of approximately 1 million inhabitants is easy to navigate. Most Danes speak English. Stellar transport links offer efficient subway routes, buses and trains, Fairy-Tale Town: Tivoli Gardens including the easy, fast departure from Copenhagen Airport, amusement Kastrup, to Copenhagen Central Station. A devotedly park (top), Villa Copenhagen eco-minded locale, the City of Spires teems with bike riders (bottom left), and and is a trendsetter in eco-conscious living — even the bikes parked outside airport has been CO2 neutral since 2019. Certified with the a colorful building (bottom right) Green Tourism Organization seal of approval, Copenhagen proudly offers an abundance of Green Key Hotels; a slew of PHOTOS: © ANDRII VATSYK | DREAMSTIME farm-to-fork, locavore-driven restaurants (try Chef Kamilla .COM, © DEANPICTURES | DREAMSTIME.COM, © Seidler’s Restaurant Lola for a treat); and a tendency to BERNARD BIALORUCKI | DREAMSTIME.COM do everything with cleanliness and the future in mind — including ways to help meeting planners facilitate green conventions of all sizes. While century-old Tivoli Gardens may be Copenhagen’s unofficial living room, as popular with locals as tourists, the amusement park stands out as one of the most sought-after

locations for events of any size. With nostalgic game booths and rides, it also features world-class restaurants, bars, a biergarten, a massive center stage for performances and swanky Nimb Hotel. Its rooms with terraces hover over the park, ideal for cocktail parties. Consider taking over a ride or the entire park for a grand finale event. Affiliated with and inspired by the park, The Tivoli Congress Center lies a short walk away between the vibrant Meatpacking District (a favorite for gastronomes) and the harbor. It offers a grand hall with capacity for 2,400; a variety of smaller venues hosting up to 475; and tailored packages for any size event. With its 2021 addition of the Bella Arena, the colossal Bella Center expanded to become Scandinavia’s largest congress hall. Able to accommodate a startling 30,000 people in more than 100 meeting rooms (some with water views), the center often hosts international political conferences and chic events such as Copenhagen International Fashion Fair. The contemporary complex rises near the airport, a short shuttle ride to city center facilitated by its own train stop. Its various entrances allow for simultaneous meetings and events. The adjacent AC Hotel Bella Sky, with 811 rooms, coordinates seamlessly with the immense venue. Architectural buffs and marine life fans will want to book The Danish National Aquarium, The Blue Planet, a magnificent building by Danish architects 3XN. Evoking swirling water, the aluminum-clad structure holds the largest aquarium in Northern Europe, presenting a coterie of fascinating sea creatures as well as conference facilities for 1,000. With views of Øresund sound, it promises behind-the-scenes tours of the exhibits. Three artsy options for summits include The Royal Theatre’s Old Stage, the National Gallery of Denmark and the Royal Danish Playhouse. The first, with space for 1,400, is a Baroque marvel, awash in gilt, glamour and chandeliers. Its foyer overlooks Kongens Nytorv, Copenhagen’s most famous square, a perfect spot for elegant sit-down dinners. Best of all, the entire theater can be rented for private gala performances. Equally engaging, the National Gallery of Denmark, an impressive trove of Danish and international art, offers theaters and exhibition rooms for meeting use. Organize an after-hours tour for your art-loving VIPs. At the waterfront Royal Danish Playhouse, three smaller venues can incorporate smaller cocktail receptions or standing buffets, though the entire location can be bought out for larger events. Named over and over as one of the world’s most livable cities, wonderful Copenhagen fuses its past and present to create extraordinary support for conventioneers intent on writing their own Andersen-worthy business tale.

UNIQUE VENUES THE LOCOMOTIVE WORKSHOP Stretching 100,000 square feet, this industrial-hip, former train repair shop presents a commodious space which can be sectioned off in myriad ways. Popular for trade shows, it sits near the boho neighborhood of leafy Vesterbro. VILLA COPENHAGEN A refurbished post office, circa 1912, that brims with art, this stylish hotel is centrally sited. Stunning convention rooms are positioned beneath an evocative hidden garden, and a rooftop pool vaunts views of adjacent rooftops. villacopenhagen.com THE ORANGERY Amid all the chaos of Tivoli Gardens, a tranquil space awaits for quiet cocktail parties and intimate dinner meetings. Set behind Nimb Terrasse at the bridge over Tivoli Lake, the graceful, circular, glass-walled venue channels Tivoli’s nostalgic spirit. Equally like eating in a garden, the greenhouse at Gemyse Tivoli, Copenhagen’s top plant-based restaurant, nestles in a hushed corner of Tivoli, surrounded by blooming flowers, plants and other greenery. Choose this spot for tasteful, small group get-togethers. tivoligardens.com

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

9–5 | MILAN

Italian Class Count on Milan’s sense of style to impress clients and colleagues. BY ALLISON VOIGTS Spiritual Heart: Gothic façade of Milan Cathedral in Piazza del Duomo PHOTO: © ELLESI | DREAMSTIME .COM

ilan quietly powered Italy for centuries but may be on the verge of a higher profile than ever before. With a gross domestic product of $245.9 billion in 2018, its Porta Nuova District alone boasts a larger economy than four-fifths of the world’s countries, making it the richest neighborhood in Europe. Already a leader in fashion, publishing, manufacturing, banking and more, as Milan steps further into the spotlight in the wake of Brexit, the timing is perfect for a business trip here. It all starts with coffee in Piazza del Duomo, Milan’s spiritual and

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commercial heart. Meet clients for a standing espresso at Bar Duomo for a head-on view of the cathedral’s ghostly white spires, or sit down to a morning cappuccino and croissant around the corner at Giacomo Caffè. You’ll find the most luxurious breakfast at the historic Caffè Motta inside Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. This spectacular arcade serves as a glass-domed passageway connecting the Duomo with Milan’s other top attraction, Teatro alla Scala, a premier opera venue. Housing some top designer brands like Prada, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Armani, Galleria also features numerous restaurants and cafés sure to impress. Just as the Galleria set the template for malls all over the globe, Caffè Motta pioneered the concept of the quintessential Italian café. Try the panettone, a citrusy raisin cake. From there, make sure to stroll down one of the shopping streets that radiate outward from the piazza, like Via Dante toward Sforza Castle. For lunch meetings with clients, hop on the tram to eat lunch on the go, literally. ATMosfera converted one of the city’s beloved trams into a fine-dining establishment. Reservations are critical to secure one of the eight elegant tables surrounded by teak paneling and gorgeous views of the streets passing by, and

Sights and Sounds: Teatro alla Scala (top), ATMosfera restaurant in an old tram (middle), and Town House Galleria in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (bottom) PHOTOS: © POSZTÓS JÁNOS | DREAMSTIME .COM, © EKATERINA KRIMINSKAYA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © АЛЕКСАНДР МАКАРЕНКО | DREAMSTIME.COM

you can even book the tram exclusively for your meeting. Many of Milan’s trams have operated since the early 20th century, outlasting war and recession, meaning they’re living museums that remain close to the hearts of locals. All of Milan’s transportation has the same singular charm: both classic and easy to use. The city’s three airports — Orio al Serio; Linate; and the main airport, Malpensa — offer trains or shuttles to the city center. For €13, Malpensa Express arrives in 50 minutes at Milan Central, the grandest train station in Europe, whose onward options include high-speed connections to nearby Turin, Bologna and Venice; the metro’s four lines; the tram; and 80 bus lines (Line 94 stops at most of the important sites around the city center). Buy tickets — including day, week or month passes — at the machines or kiosks, and always remember to validate your ticket in the machine. Choosing where to lunch from Milan’s more than a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants may be a challenge, but Bice, a mainstay, specializes in business lunches and even offers a private room. Solferino, another 100-plus-year-old establishment, serves Milan’s specialty, osso buco, veal shank braised with white wine. The risotto that comes on the side is tinted gold by saffron to represent the financial aspirations of this affluent city. Pair it with a Chianti from the attached wine shop. Milan has an abundance of hotels for your afternoon meeting or lodging. At Senato Hotel, formerly a family’s private residence, choose from a variety of lavishly designed modern spaces ideal for quiet discussion. In addition to all the standard luxuries, Park Hyatt offers numerous meeting rooms, including high-tech services like simultaneous translation for up to 100 participants. Also on site is a beloved local bar, Mio Lab. Perhaps the best location to host your meeting is Town House Galleria, the world’s first certified 7-star hotel. Located within Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the hotel accesses a walkway overlooking both the grand atrium and the rooftops of Milan, including the spires of the Duomo. Last, it’s time for the aperitivo. Endless opportunities await on nearly every street to take part in this most Milanese tradition, punctuating the work day and segueing into luscious dining, but your best bet has to be Terrazza Aperol. Overlooking Piazza del Duomo, where the day began, this chic bar occupies the original site of the famous Caffè Motta. Distilled from bitter herbs and rhubarb, the vivid orange spirit, Aperol, is actually sweeter and smoother than its stronger sister, Campari, and can best be enjoyed as a spritz, with equal parts Prosecco and a splash of soda water, as you close the day.

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

AFTER 5 | QUEBEC CITY

Quintessential Québec The old city shines with lively French-Canadian culture. BY SUSAN B. BARNES

ore than 400 years of history, a fortified city center and the charms of easily walkable European neighborhoods flow like the St. Lawrence River to create an ambience that can only be found in

Québec City. After the work day ends, window-shop boutiques, art galleries, and specialty and gourmet food shops for inspiration. Québec City’s Quartier Petit Champlain is the oldest shopping district in North America, dotted with colorful art shops and sophisticated designer boutiques. For a more local shopping experience, venture to Avenue Cartier in the Arts District to browse fashionable and specialty boutiques in a more intimate setting. Québécois take pride in their culinary scene, and for good reason. Chefs draw upon the city’s French and indigenous roots to create distinct gourmet flavors for everyone to enjoy. Chef François-Emmanuel Nicol tells a story with every dish he creates for the tasting menu

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at Tanière³, located in the historic cellars of the Leber and Charest house with stories of their own to tell. At Légende par La Tanière, every ingredient Chef Fredéric Laplante uses in his dishes comes from the province’s farms, forests and sea. The results are pleasantly surprising and absolutely delicious. Île d’Orléans, which sits in the middle of the St. Lawrence River just north of Québec City, hosts a number of vineyards and winemakers who create flavorful wines and ice wines. One to visit is Vignoble Isle de Bacchus, the oldest vineyard on the island. Fête Arc-en-ciel de Québec, the city’s social and arts Pride Festival, runs Sept. 2–5 in Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a neighborhood tucked between Old Québec and Montcalm. Also within Saint-Jean you will find the popular Le Drague Cabaret Club, a cabaret, nightclub and restaurant that opens its doors to everyone. In fact, myriad inclusive restaurants, pubs and bistros like Ninkasi Bat & Bistro and Le Nelligan’s Pub stay open late into the night.

FLY WITH CONFIDENCE For the Chicago Department of Aviation (CDA), there is no higher priority than the safety and well-being of the traveling public and its airport community in Chicago. O’Hare and Midway International Airports, which are operated by the CDA, are committed to providing travelers with safe and efficient facilities, while offering best-in-class services and amenities. The CDA continues to work closely with federal, state, and local agencies to ensure travelers are healthy, comfortable and safe. Chicago’s airports are ready to make your essential travel possible. For more information on what we are doing, visit flychicago.com/covid

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NEIGHBORHOODS | PHILADELPHIA

Art of the City Philadelphia’s Fairmount boasts impressive collections and a friendly vibe. BY KIMBERLY KROL INLANDER

Picture Perfect: Boathouse Row (top), and the Rocky statue outside the Museum of Art (bottom) PHOTOS: © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DAVID M SACERDOTE | DREAMSTIME.COM

s a native of the Philadelphia region, I’m quite familiar with the drive in and out of the City of Brotherly Love. Even as the city’s skyline continually transforms, my favorite views of Philadelphia have always been along Boathouse Row, with the Philadelphia Museum of Art rising in the background, before looping around the museum to the flag-lined Benjamin Franklin Parkway. Home to many of Philadelphia’s incredible and world-renowned museums, the Fairmount neighborhood is fittingly aesthetically pleasing and practically synonymous with fine art. Perhaps the most well-known of the area’s institutions is the Philadelphia Museum of Art, where the experience begins outdoors at its iconic staircase. Don’t miss posing with the Rocky statue before you head up the stairs made famous by Sylvester Stallone. In May 2021 the museum debuted the first results of a multiyear, multimillion-dollar, Frank Gehrydesigned master redesign. Among the changes: 20,000 square feet of new gallery space, a soaring forum, a renovated Lenfest Hall and an outdoor portico overlooking the Schuylkill River (that’s pronounced “skoo-kl” for non-Philadelphians). Art lovers will also delight at the Rodin Museum. Encompassing one of the world’s best collections of works by Auguste Rodin, considered the father of modern sculpture, it’s the only museum dedicated solely to him outside of Paris. Just steps away lies another superlative display at the Barnes Foundation, boasting one of the world’s best collections of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and modern art displayed in a striking manner that literally covers the walls. Adults and children big and small will find fun at Fairmount’s other highlights. Science and technology are cool at the Franklin Institute, and taking a walk through “The Giant Heart” is a rite of passage. My journalistic aspirations were cultivated during childhood visits to the Please Touch Museum, featuring various play areas mimicking fairy tales, occupations, lifestyle pursuits and real-life institutions. America’s first zoo, Philadelphia Zoo boasts a firstin-the-world animal travel trail system, Zoo 360. Look up to see monkeys, tigers and more traversing the in-air walkways. The zoo is encompassed within Fairmount Park, which covers more than 2,000 acres of green space. Don’t miss an open-air performance at The Mann Center, also within the park’s boundaries.

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Once home to notorious prisoners like “Slick Willie” Sutton and Al Capone, today Eastern State Penitentiary offers daytime and night tours as well as thought-provoking exhibits on modern incarceration in America. At Halloween expect to hear screams — all in good fun — from its halls when the prison transforms for the seasonal Terror Behind the Walls. All of this comes alongside a thriving culinary and beverage scene and a welcoming, friendly vibe. The best way to experience Fairmount is to explore it for yourself.

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Zest for Life European sophistication meets Latin passion in Buenos Aires. BY ARI BENDERSKY

ntil you visit, you may never know the extent of Buenos Aires’ cosmopolitanism. From design and architecture to technology and banking — and across all the arts — Buenos Aires truly has a global feel that rivals Paris, New York and Tokyo. While it’s on the water, Buenos Aires is not a beach destination like Rio but rather a port city — hence locals are called Porteños and have a zest for life and want to share it with all who visit. Almost as soon as you enter this beautiful Argentine capital, it becomes obvious just how fantastic this energetic metropolitan city truly is. You’ll likely spend most of your time between upscale, classic Recoleta; chic, eclectic and fashionable Palermo; and the romantic and gentrified San Telmo, where you’ll find a sprawling open-air antique flea market each Sunday. But the Central Business District of La Citi, between the San Nicolás, Montserrat and Retiro neighborhoods, is home to the Buenos Aires Stock Exchange, Argentina’s Central Bank and other financial institutions. No matter where you gather with colleagues and clients, you’ll notice quite quickly

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the European influence on the city’s architecture. Waves of immigrants from Spain, Italy and Germany — and what now comprises the world’s sixth-largest Jewish community — all arrived in Buenos Aires in the 19th and 20th centuries, bringing with them design, culture and gastronomy. All over the city their impact can be observed by simply walking around the neighborhoods and looking up at the homes and buildings. You’ll especially see it at Teatro Colón, one of the most important opera houses in the world, where singer Maria Callas famously performed and which offers group tours. At the Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires, modern and folk art converge in permanent and rotating exhibits. You can experience it in any number of the city’s top spots to watch the romantic, sensual tango shows — and learn a few moves yourself in this, the world’s tango capital. You’ll even encounter it in La Recoleta Cemetery, a neighborhood in its own right where some of the city’s most important residents, including Eva Perón, are buried. When it comes to business, Buenos Aires’ numerous industries converge. In 2017 the city was named a smart city due to its welcoming attitude toward innovation, entrepreneurship, technology and app development. The newer Buenos Aires Exhibition and Convention Centre hosted the 2017 Smart City

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FRIENDS & FAMILY | ST. LUCIA

No Worries Escape to the lush tropical wonders of St. Lucia. By the Sea: (Left to right) Pigeon Island National Landmark, Rodney Bay, view from Fort Romney, and Marigot Bay PHOTOS: © JENNA | DREAMSTIME .COM, © IRISHKA777 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ELENA SKALOVSKAIA | DREAMSTIME .COM, © SIMONDANNHAUER | DREAMSTIME.COM

rive one hour from Hewanorra International Airport at the southern tip of St. Lucia to the capital city of Castries, where most business meetings take place, and you’ll quickly realize you’re visiting one of the most lush and mountainous islands in the Caribbean. The road swirls up and down the dramatic volcanic interior, offering views of those stunning twin peaks called the Pitons and miles of uncongested coastline. Add great water visibility and active reefs for scuba diving and snorkeling, a welcoming people and some of the finest resorts in the Caribbean, and you’ll no doubt want to finish your work quickly to join your family and take full

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INFO TO GO BY STEPHEN JERMANOK

advantage of the destination. Some prefer to stay at many of the finer properties on island — such as Cap Maison, BodyHoliday and Windjammer Landing — located a half-hour’s drive north of Castries on the outskirts of Rodney Bay. Others choose to stay at the renowned resorts on the western end of the island, close to the town of Soufrière, which include Anse Chastanet, Jade Mountain and Sugar Beach. Take a hike at Pigeon Island National Landmark, a perfect introduction to the lushness of St. Lucia, especially if you’re staying at one of the resorts at the northern end of the island. Once surrounded by water, the spot now links to the mainland via a causeway built

St. Lucia is 27 miles long and 14 miles wide. Hewanorra International Airport in Vieux Fort is located an hour’s drive south of Castries, 90 minutes south of Rodney Bay and about a 50-minute drive from the resorts near the Pitons in Soufrière. Taxis are readily available at the airport; a taxi to the northern resorts typically costs $80 for up to three passengers.

LODGING

DINING

Anse Chastanet Resort Sit on your balcony at Anse Chastanet or by the private infinity pool at sister property Jade Mountain and soak up the jaw-dropping views of the Pitons straight ahead. Their beach also offers one of the finest snorkeling spots on the island.

Bayside Restaurant Opt for the casual Bayside Restaurant set on a white-sand beach. Then get ready to dig into wood-fired oven pizzas and the grilled catch of the day.

1 Anse Chastanet Road, Soufrière $$$$$ BodyHoliday BodyHoliday’s long line-up of fitness classes — spin, Pilates, yoga, tai chi, AquaFit — and guided hikes come with a reward: a daily massage, wrap or facial included in the price. Cariblue Beach, Cap Estate, Castries $$$$ Windjammer Landing Known for its villas that climb a hillside and offer spectacular views of the sunset, the resort proves popular with families who like the all-inclusive option. 1504 Labrelotte Bay, Castries $$$$

in 1972. Pay the admission fee, and soon you’re walking in the shade under a row of casuarina trees. As you climb the hillside, the beaches and resorts on Rodney Bay come into view and the tropical vegetation smells ripe with humidity. The high-pitched calls of birds welcome you to the walls, ramparts and cannons still standing at Fort Romney. The 18th-century fortress perched atop the promontory was an important chunk of land for the British trying to hold off the French in their many battles over the island. Intrepid groups from the wellness resort BodyHoliday like to rappel down these cliffs before sea kayaking back to their property. A far simpler option is to climb up the rocky path to the top of Signal Peak. To the north you can see the ridges of the long island of Martinique. To the south you can just make out the two jagged peaks of the Pitons, a UNESCO World

Sugar Beach Resort, Val Des Pitons, La Baie de Silence, Soufrière $$$$ The Cliff at Cap Grab a coveted seat overlooking the ocean at The Cliff at Cap and get ready for a fusion of Caribbean- and French-influenced flavors washed down with the specially made Cap Maison Solera rum. Cap Maison Resort, Smuggler’s Cove Drive, Cap Estate $$$$$ Ti Kave Ti Kaye Resort boasts one of the finest wine lists in the Caribbean, including a rare sighting of a Joseph Phelps Insignia. Sample a world of wines in its Ti Kave wine cellar, paired perfectly with an assortment of cheeses. Ti Kaye Resort & Spa, Anse Cochon, Anse La Raye $$$$

Heritage site. Then it’s back to your resort of choice to play tennis, golf, scuba, sail a Hobie Cat in a sheltered bay or simply soak up the sun on a pearly white stretch of beach. The aquamarine waters of the Caribbean beckon, cooling off your warm and weary body. The northern tip of the island also offers pleasant biking along seaside villages and deserted beaches as you breathe in the humidity-thickened tropical air tinged with a dose of salt from the sea. Arguably the best thing to do in St. Lucia: Jump on a boat and view the verdant cliffs from afar. Joy’s Adventure offers a six-hour boat trip in its Boston Whaler along the western coast. Zip past cruise ships in port at Castries and peer at the exquisite cove of Marigot Bay, where Mick Jagger and Oprah both own homes along the waterfront. Just past the beach at Anse Chastanet you get your first glimpse

SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

Tropical Gems: Diamond Waterfall near Soufrière (above left), red ginger lily (top right), and queen angelfish (bottom right) PHOTOS: © NICOLA PULHAM | DREAMSTIME .COM, © ESKYMAKS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PETERCLARK1985 | DREAMSTIME.COM

of the cone-shaped Pitons rising dramatically from the ocean floor to a height of more than 2,000 feet. Around the bend in Soufrière you switch over to minivans to be led up the hillside for a swim under a waterfall. Lather the volcanic mud on your body and wash it off in the cool waters, resulting in silky smooth skin, undeniably the best spa treatment on St. Lucia. The tour continues at Joy’s home, where you lunch under the guava, papaya and banana trees. Then it’s off to the Sugar Beach resort, smack dab between the Pitons, to go snorkeling with neon-colored fish including parrotfish, queen angelfish and bright blue chromis. You’ll also spot fan, organ pipe and brain corals that are very much alive. On the return boat ride, drink homemade rum punch and listen to reggae while cruising back at high speed — the perfect ending to a perfect day. If you choose to stay closer to Soufrière, more exploration of the island awaits. Next door to Anse Chastanet lies Anse Mamin, a former 18th-century plantation and sugar mill. The 500-acre ruins now offer more than eight miles of trails for either hiking or mountain biking. Walk over the massive fallen leaves of African tulip and calabash trees on a soft path next to a river. Deep in the jungle you cross over a bridge that leads to

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a centuries-old storage facility for molasses. Another worthwhile nature walk near Soufrière is the Tet Paul Trail. A local guide leads the hour-long endeavor and teaches you about all the natural remedies developed from the vast range of tropical trees, bushes, herbs and fruit. Located in a farming community, everything seems to grow here. Fruit projects straight out of the bark of the soursop tree, whose young leaves, soaked in hot water, are supposedly good for the prostate. In fact, it seems St. Lucians use tea for all their woes. Rosemary leaves treat migraines; fennel serves as a digestif. Pick bay leaves, lemongrass and mint for their aromas, and spot ripe guavas, pineapples, cashews, apricots, the sour oranges used in many fish dishes, star fruit, passionfruit, limes and mocambos (small bananas great for frying). You’ll pass elephant ear ferns, the red ginger lily flower and the prickly bark of the gri-gri palm tree, which locals call the devil stick. Then you climb the “stairway to heaven,” ascending stairs to a platform overlooking Gros Piton and his little brother, Petit Piton. You look down in amazement at the astounding view of the twin peaks and the spankingwhite beach below. You might arrive in St. Lucia for business, but the problem is you might never leave.

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TOURS | BOSTON

Revolutionary Way American history comes to life along Boston’s Freedom Trail. BY KIM FOLEY MACKINNON

oston is often called “America’s Walking City,” and one of its most famous attractions is the Freedom Trail, with good cause. Many Bostonians, and perhaps even some visitors, may think something so popular must be overrated, but nothing could be further from the truth. The 2.5-mile red line covering 16 of Boston’s most historic sites includes important museums, parks, churches and burying grounds. A visitor can take any number of guided tours, but the nonprofit Freedom Trail Foundation offers some of the most comprehensive and entertaining (while also helping to preserve the official historic sites). On the group’s most popular Walk into History tour, an in-character, costumed guide in 18th-century garb leads you to 11 sites including Boston Common, King’s Chapel, Old South Meeting House, the Boston Massacre site and Faneuil Hall. The organization also leads other themed tours such as African-American Patriots, Revolutionary Women, and North End. Not only do you get a history lesson, you also get a good feel for Boston’s layout, so you can go back later and visit stores and restaurants that catch your eye along the way. While the Freedom Trail seems like a city institution that existed forever, its origin story is pretty entertaining. Improbably enough, it was created after a columnist at a Boston newspaper in 1951 wondered in print why it was so difficult to find the city’s revolutionary historic sites. On March 8, 1951, Bill Schofield wrote, “All I’m suggesting is that we mark out a ‘Puritan Path’ or ‘Liberty Loop’ or ‘Freedom’s Way’ or whatever you want to call it, so [visitors and locals will] know where to start and what course to follow.” Mayor John B. Hynes read the column and moved forward to create the path. Signs were put up to mark an approximately one-mile-long route from Boston Common to the North End, but it took a while for the red path as we know it now to be realized. In 1958 the red line was added, and over the years the route changed to include Charlestown and more sites. Today most people would find it difficult to imagine the city without it. Path to Liberty: Walk into History tour stop at the Granary Burying Ground (top), Freedom Trail medallion (bottom left), and Freedom Trail Players welcoming visitors to the Massachusetts State House (bottom right) PHOTOS: © FREEDOM TRAIL FOUNDATION, © MASSACHUSETTS PORT AUTHORITY, © FREEDOM TRAIL FOUNDATION ®

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Flight Path Museum On the Tarmac at Los Angeles International Airport

Experience the glamour, adventure, and excitement of aviation and aerospace, past, present and future. See a real DC3 | Explore the space gallery Plane spotting | Flight simulators | Hear air trafﬁc controllers | Unique event & meeting venue

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BUCKET LIST | TRANSYLVANIA

Tales of Transylvania

Take a haunting tour of legendary Bran Castle … if you dare. BY KRISTY ALPERT

Castle Lore: Bran Castle on the hilltop, the armor collection, the main tower, the fireplace, King Ferdinand’s bedroom, and the secret passage connecting the first and third floors PHOTOS: © BRAN CASTLE

he road turned to gravel as we veered off the winding main street of Bran toward the Romanian villa we had rented for the night. The air was crisp and smelled like apples and moss as my husband and I drove with our windows down through a grove of trees bursting with bright amber and crimson leaves. We had arrived in Transylvania on Oct. 31, Halloween, but instead of ghouls and goblins, we encountered a pastoral storybook setting in which white woolly sheep grazed among the outskirts of a sleepy Saxon village filled with colorful houses as medieval church bells echoed in the distance. It appeared more like a scene from Beauty and the Beast than from anything with a sinister plot … until I looked up. Bran Castle, better known as Dracula’s Castle, loomed in the distance, perched high on a steep, craggy hilltop overlooking the Turcul River below. A rust-colored roof rested atop weathered white stone walls which curved and angled sharply before blending into a base of rugged raw stones. Erected by the Knights of the Teutonic Order along a popular Carpathian Mountain trade route, the castle dates back to 1211. It wasn’t until 100 years later that

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the fortress took its current form as a foreboding castle and its 57 chambers and winding hallways began to yield stories and legends that would last throughout the centuries. Stories of Hungarian kings, Transylvanian Saxons, Romanian royals and even Ottoman sieges have all been etched upon the castle’s historic walls, but a fictional bloodthirsty count most marks the castle’s notoriety. Irish author Bram Stoker never visited Romania before or after he penned his 1897 novel Dracula, yet despite having never seen the castle in person, Stoker’s description of the fictional Transylvanian count’s castle bears an uncanny resemblance to the castle in Bran. In his novel, Stoker writes Dracula’s castle sits “on the very edge of a terrific precipice … with occasionally a deep rift where there is a chasm [with] silver threads where the rivers wind in deep gorges through the forests.” No other castle in Transylvania comes close to the vivid descriptions throughout the book, and it’s commonly believed Stoker relied upon Romanian legend and descriptions of the castle while forming the setting for his notorious novel. Many also believe Stoker based his soulless antagonist on Vlad Tepes (aka Vlad the Impaler or Vlad Dracul), the Romanian prince of Wallachia known for his short temper and his penchant for impaling those who wronged him … of whom there were many. Prince Vlad never actually ruled Bran Castle — although some accounts report he was held prisoner at the castle for two months and possibly attacked it once — yet the connection once again remains uncanny. Since the 1960s the castle has been eternally associated

INFO TO GO The nearest international gateway to the castle is Brasov-Ghimbav International Airport, located less than a 30-minute drive from the castle; however, it is currently under construction and slated to reopen by the end of 2021. Henri Coanda International Airport in Bucharest is a bit farther (156 miles or 183 miles, depending on the route) but offers the chance for a stunning road trip through the Carpathian Mountains. It connects with major European hubs; rental cars are available from major rental operators.

with Stoker’s fictitious bloodthirsty count. Entrance to the castle is open to the public seven days a week throughout the year, with self-guided walking tours available for roughly $11 (senior, student and child discounts available; children under 7 are free) until 4 p.m. each day. The torture museum — not for the faint of heart — is available as an add-on, as is the brand-new Time Tunnel exhibit that takes guests 102 feet below the castle in a glass-enclosed elevator through a reinforced ancient well to a multimedia show of bats, dragons and Romanian folklore. But it’s on Halloween when the castle stays open long past dusk to welcome visitors (18 and older) looking for a more immersive and hair-raising experience. My husband and I read the warning on our tickets with smiles on our faces before handing them over at the base of the 200-foot hill: “Be cautious if you suffer from claustrophobia or are sensitive to intermittent light and loud noises,” and then joined a line of costumed tourists trekking up the hill toward a castle bathed in a crimson light art glow. We wandered through the castle freely, only encountering Count Dracula once for an impromptu photo shoot in the corridor between the bed chambers before making our way to the inner courtyard. There, castle staff handed out heavy pours of “Dracula’s Blood,” a robust red wine, as fairies danced in the courtyard and groups with painted faces and plastic vampire teeth snuck extra helpings of the “blood.” The scene offered just a small taste of what was yet to come, so we passed quickly by Dracula figurines and bottles of “Dracula’s Blood” in the gift shop before making our way to the tented after-party at the bottom of the hill. The party raged on until dawn, when sweaty skeletons and danced-out vampires began their journeys back to their beds. The experience ended dramatically differently from the way Stoker wraps up his novel, but the memories of a Halloween spent at Bran Castle remain equally as haunting. SEPTEMBER 2021 globaltravelerusa.com

KICKING BACK | PHUKET

Change of Pace Slow down and unwind in easy-going Phuket. BY KRISTY ALPERT

Taste of Paradise: Fishing with a net (top), Rawai Seafood Market (bottom left), and Cape Panwa Peninsula (bottom right); and (opposite page, left to right) long-tail boat at Maya Bay, and Sri Panwa villa PHOTOS: © ZENGINE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KHELLON | DREAMSTIME.COM, © WUTTHICHAI CHANGKHIT | DREAMSTIME.COM, © TENZIN | DREAMSTIME.COM, © BALL1725 | DREAMSTIME.COM

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LODGING

t’s not even 9 a.m. in the sleepy fishing village of Rawai on Thailand’s famous Phuket Island, but already the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea swarm with local fishermen casting their lines and releasing their nets from the bows of rustic long-tail boats. The scents of lemongrass, incense and sweet pandan leaves season the air as the villagers slowly rise from their beachside bungalows to start their day. In just a few more hours, the fishermen will return with their catches, filling the stalls of the iconic Rawai Seafood Market with buckets of shellfish and displays of fresh filets. Visitors line up each afternoon for the catch of the day, selecting their fish with care before hauling their purchases across the well-worn road to the restaurants opposite the market to have the fish cooked for 100 Thai baht per kilo. The average day in Phuket starts and ends on the beach, where villagers and visitors alike spend hours enjoying the slow pace of Thailand’s largest island and its nearly 25 miles of public shoreline. Only a short, one-hour flight from Bangkok, Phuket boasts numerous national and international flight options that make it an easy addition to a business trip in Thailand or even neighboring countries. If you’re looking for nightlife, Phuket has you covered, as it’s become known as Thailand’s party island. But it’s not just bars, clubs and EDM festivals in Phuket; the island offers many chances to kick back and enjoy some much-deserved rest and relaxation. Phuket consists of one main island — separated from the mainland by Chong Pak Phra channel at the northernmost point of the island — and a series of several smaller islands that add about 27

square miles to the total size of the destination. The main island’s rolling hills give the densely forested landscape an exotic flair, where hilltop restaurants and hotels offer vantages once reserved for the birds. Find some of the best views of the sea at Sri Panwa, a luxury boutique hotel perched in the hills of the Cape Panwa Peninsula at the southern tip of the island. Many of the family-owned resort’s villas and estates offer panoramic views of the sea, but a handful even offer uninterrupted 300-degree views of the Andaman Sea and the surrounding islands. The villas are modern and fresh, designed to feel like private homes, with surround-sound entertainment systems, wrap-around plunge pools and chilled-out décor perfect for lounging in between adventures around the island. The resort’s stunning location and stylish décor made it a favorite among leading musicians, fashion icons and business legends, including Robert H. Burns, Chef Gordon Ramsay, David Rockefeller, Rita Ora, Flo Rida and the royal family of Thailand. The resort’s 10 dining options feature everything from authentic Thai flavors to sushi and even local favorites like Chinese cuisine and hotpot. The resort’s iconic Baba Nest is also the most requested sunset viewing point on the island, where reservations are mandatory and often book up weeks in advance. This sexy and stylish rooftop bar offers 360-degree views. Here guests sip on high-end Champagne or craft cocktails at the plush lounge, with pillows and low tables nestled inside the border of a black-bottomed infinity pool that seemingly drifts into the sunset each night. Days spent on the island can include a round of golf at Phuket Country Club or Red Mountain,

Jw Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa This beachfront resort is ideal for families traveling with kids, with 248 rooms and 13 suites, including numerous family suites with private pools. 231 Moo 3 Mai Khao, Thalang $$$ Sri Panwa Phuket Hotel This trendy 82-villa boutique luxury hotel, the top choice for the stylish set, features one of the highest-rated rooftop bars in the world. 88 Sakdidej Road, Vichit Muang, Chang Wat $$$$$ Trisara Trisara translates to “the garden in the third heaven” in Sanskrit, and the 38 villas and suites spread throughout this tropical resort offer heavenly views of the resort’s private bay. 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Road, Cherngtalay, Thalang $$$$

DINING L’arôme By The Sea An extensive list of French wines complements the contemporary French cuisine in this fine dining establishment. The restaurant and rooftop bar boast an elegant, modern design and lovely ocean views. 247/5 Prabaramee Road, Patong, Kathu $$$$ Kan Eang@Pier One of the oldest restaurants in Phuket, this seaside venue offers stunning views and the freshest seafood in town. 44/1 Viset Road Moo 5, Rawai, Muang $$ Three Monkeys Restaurant Located among the jungle greenery of Hanaman World adventure park, Three Monkeys presents Southern Thai cuisine, a grill and a raw bar along with unique cocktails. 105 Moo 4, Muang Chaofah Road, Wichit $$$

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INFO TO GO Most guests arrive at Phuket Airport, the second-busiest airport in Thailand. Phuket reopened to fully vaccinated international tourists July 1, 2021, under its Phuket Sandbox protocols, and the island claims a 74 percent fully vaccinated population. The best time to visit is between December and March, before the hot season starts in April and after the wet season ends in November. ATM machines are widely available, but note Thai ATMs eject cash before returning the card.

shopping for luxurious silks or pearls, or even taking a cooking class with a local chef. Sri Panwa’s chef offers a cooking class on site, but Pat’s Thai Home Cooking classes prove a favorite for many who want to be able to recreate their favorite Southern Thai dishes like tom yum goong and laab kai once they return home. Adventurous souls can take to the hills for horseback riding excursions or mountain biking trips in the jungle, or stay closer to the city center for muay Thai boxing lessons at Tiger Muay Thai & Mixed Martial Arts. Phuket is also home to one of the last remaining virgin rainforests in the world, Khao Phra Thaeo Wildlife Sanctuary, where wildlife runs free and visitors can see langurs, barking deer, monkeys and even gibbons. A guided walking tour of Old Town Phuket uncovers the lesser-known history of Phuket’s tin industry beginnings, explaining why so much of the city’s architecture shows influences from Chinese styles. The island’s top beaches offer a launching point into adventure; the most popular beaches include Rawai, Patong, Karon, Kamala, Kata Yai, Kata Noi and Mai Khao. Visitors looking to soak in the sea may need more than a week to take advantage of all the aquatic offerings on Phuket, with countless sea canoeing excursions, scuba diving adventures, fishing trips, paddle boarding tours and

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more occurring throughout the day. John Gray set the standard for sea kayaking and canoeing around the islands of Phuket, and his highly acclaimed company, John Gray’s Sea Canoe, provides a range of full- and half-day and overnight sea kayaking adventures. His Hong by Starlight trip is a must-do while in the area, as it offers one of the only chances to kayak inside the caves and hidden lagoons lurking within Phang Nga Bay. The trip begins with a guided kayaking tour inside the caves and lagoons John Gray himself discovered back in 1989, where guests take advantage of the low tides to navigate through the rock structures to enter into secluded blue lagoons for the chance to swim in the heart of Phuket’s craggiest rock formations. After a quick lunch on board, guests begin constructing their own floating kratong from flowers, which they will later light and launch from sea kayaks once the sun goes down during a beautiful spiritual ceremony on the sea. Once the sun sets, Phuket really begins to shine, with great dining options and tons of fabulous night markets. The Chillva Market Phuket is the trendiest of the night markets, and its bohemian vibe attracts Phuket’s more stylish set for shopping and dining at its bustling market stalls. Some of the best restaurants in the city do not offer Thai food, as they are run by celebrated chefs from around the world, including L’Arôme by the Sea, featuring French contemporary fine dining in a modern seaside setting. For more local flavors, restaurants like Kan Eang@Pier and Three Monkeys have become favorites for both locals and visitors with discriminating taste. Kan Eang@Pier’s laid-back vibe fits in well with its cool Chalong Bay location. The name “Kan Eang” literally translates to “easy-going.” Its indoor and outdoor seating provides the perfect backdrop for the restaurant’s menu of classic Chinese-Thai seafood and traditional Thai cuisine. Don’t miss the tom kna gai or the Phuket lobster when it’s in season. Although the day starts on the beach, it often ends on the beach as well, as the bright night stars shine down on the glittering seawater and shadowed beaches while the gentle breeze acts as a reminder to chill out while standing on the shores of this dreamy destination.

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LGBTQ+

Culture Trip Guadalajara hums with mariachi, tequila, history and diversity. BY MARK CHESNUT

s one of Mexico’s largest cities, it’s no surprise Guadalajara is one of the nation’s most progressive when it comes to LGBTQ+ life. That also makes it a great place for LGBTQ+ travelers to explore. After a pandemic-era hiatus, Guadalajara’s vibrant nightlife scene is getting back into gear, with a variety of bars and clubs catering to different tastes. Among the more upscale places to dance is Envy, located in the chic Americana neighborhood, while California’s and Caudillos both attract a loyal and diverse following downtown. And every June the city takes on rainbow hues during Guadalajara Pride, the annual LGBTQ+ pride celebration. Founded in 1542, Guadalajara is a hub for history and culture. The city’s legendary landmarks include Guadalajara Cathedral, dating to 1588; Degollado Theater, built in the 19th century; and Hospicio Cabañas, a 19th-century former hospice and current UNESCO World Heritage site known for its spectacular architecture as well as its gigantic murals by artist José Clemente Orozco. Travelers looking to experience more of the local culture might attend a mariachi concert (mariachi was born here, in the state of Jalisco) or a colorful lucha libre wrestling event. A side trip to the town of Tequila is a must for anyone who’s a fan of its eponymous spirit. Getting there can be part of the fun when you take the José Cuervo Express, a train ride that includes tastings and music as well

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‘AFTER A PANDEMIC-ERA HIATUS, GUADALAJARA’S VIBRANT NIGHTLIFE SCENE IS GETTING BACK INTO SERIOUS HEALTH REPERCUSSIONS GEAR, WITH A VARIETY OF BARS CLUBS RESULTING FROMAND OBESITY RANGE CATERING TO DIFFERENT TASTES.’ FROM DIABETES, OSTEOARTHRITIS AND HEART DISEASE TO AN OFa member STROKES, as a guided tequila distilleryINCREASED tour. Hotel Solar deRISK las Animas, of Relais & Châteaux, proves one of the best luxury hotel options for YET U.S. HEALTH INSURANCE PLANS overnight stays. RARELY COVER COSTS FOR Visitors will find a variety of stylish and welcomingTHE accommodation options throughout Guadalajara. Among the most interesting are Hotel WHICH BARIATRIC PROCEDURES, Demetria, a trendy boutique property in the Americana district, and CAN upscale RUNhacienda UPWARDS $20,000. Quinta Real Guadalajara, bringing style to theOF heart of the city. Additional luxury hotels include Hilton Guadalajara Midtown, located in the upscale Midtown shopping and commercial district, and Hyatt Regency Andares Guadalajara, near some of the city’s most luxurious shopping. Guadalajara offers activities and accommodations for every type of traveler.

Live the French way Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills 8555 Beverly Boulevard, 90048 Los Angeles Visit www.sofitel-los-angeles.com

AIRPORT UPDATE

New and Improved U.S. airports redesign to provide a safe, upgraded and exciting passenger experience. BY MARY MELNICK

DUE TO THE GLOBAL PANDEMIC AND PASSENGER REQUESTS AND FEEDBACK FOR MORE LOW-TOUCH AMENITIES AND CONCESSIONS, CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT IS ADDING 10 NEW AUTOMATED, LOW-TOUCH AMENITIES.

ith the muting of travel due to the worldwide pandemic, plenty of airports around the United States took advantage of the lack of travelers to start some expansive construction updates. Many invested in new terminals while others added new shops, restaurants and general upgrades to the infrastructure, décor and more. In Colorado, Denver International Airport started new construc-

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tion in March 2020. Currently underway in the center of the terminal, the first phase includes new airline ticket counters in the center of Level 6, making wider balconies, adding new restrooms on both the east and west sides and more. The construction is set to be finished by the last quarter of 2021. Passengers need not worry, though, because construction will not affect the security or checkin processes. Back in May, San Francisco International Airport completed the latest phase of the $2.4 billion construction of Harvey Milk Terminal 1, featuring seven new departure gates, a new post-security connector to the International Terminal, a new museum gallery, an exhibit honoring the life and legacy of Harvey Milk and more. The final phase of the construction, scheduled to create a new North check-in lobby, is in progress now and is expected to be completed as early as spring 2024. Due to the global pandemic and passenger requests and feedback for more low-touch amenities and concessions, Chicago O’Hare International Airport is adding 10 new automated, low-touch amenities. These include Micro Marts with Amazon’s “Just Walk Out” technology that will be operated by Hudson News. For increased health and safety, the cashier-less retail will give travelers the option to browse and pay for prepackaged food and merchandise without interacting with a cashier. Nine new vending machines will also utilize the latest technology, enabling passengers to shop branded food and beverage, retail products and other services via automated machines with touchscreen technology. Meanwhile, Salt Lake City International Airport strives to secure a position as a global aviation hub by building a brand-new airport. The New SLC redevelopment program was envisioned more than 20 years ago to address projected passenger growth. To prepare for the future, Salt Lake City Department of Airports is updating its Master Plan to determine future facility requirements needed to serve the area and accommodate upcoming trends for the next 20 years.

MEDICAL TOURISM

Healing Connections More than 1 million U.S. citizens pursue joint replacement abroad each year.

BY DEBRA BOKUR

roviding relief from aching, damaged joints is big business. The 2019 American Joint Replacement Registry, published in May 2020 in partnership with the American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeons, reveals more than 1.7 million hip and knee replacement procedures were performed in the United States. Classified as orthopedic surgery, the average cost of a hip replacement performed in a U.S. hospital is more than $39,000 — equivalent to a whole lot of first-class travel time in a multitude of posh destinations, and then some. Many people doing the math conclude they can combine their health and surgical goals with travel and come out ahead by choosing a high-end, accredited hospital with skilled medical staff in a location beyond U.S. borders. The savings are often significant. A hip replacement surgery in India, Costa Rica or several other countries averages $7,000–15,000. In some locations, the total cost for out-of-country surgery can even include basic travel and rehab costs. It’s no surprise this type of cost savings inspires more than 1 million U.S. citizens each year to dust off their passports. In addition to Costa Rica, countries ranking as top destinations for orthopedic surgery include Germany, South Korea, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, Spain and Italy. Respected hospitals include Inselspital and Schulthess Klinik in Switzerland; Hospital Universitario La Paz in Madrid, Spain; Istituto Ortopedico Rizzoli in Bologna, Italy; Severance Hospital–Yonsei University and KyungHee University Medical Center in South Korea; Charité – Universitätsmedizin and Helios ENDO-Klinik in Germany; and Royal National Orthopaedic Hospital in the U.K. These institutions all offer more than one type of joint replacement, based on careful assessment of the needs and challenges of individual patients. Options include joint preservation procedures, minimally invasive procedures to replace a specific, affected joint such as a shoulder, hip or knee; or arthroplasty, surgery to entirely swap out a failed joint with an artificial implant. Exciting advances in robotic-assisted technologies made these types of joint replacement procedures safer and more accurate through the rendering of 3-D models of bones that allow for a highly

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EXCITING ADVANCES IN ROBOTIC-ASSISTED TECHNOLOGIES MADE THESE TYPES OF JOINT REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES SAFER AND MORE ACCURATE THROUGH THE RENDERING OF 3-D MODELS OF BONES THAT ALLOW FOR A HIGHLY CUSTOMIZED SURGICAL PLAN WHILE ALSO PROVIDING AN OPPORTUNITY FOR SURGEONS TO ENGAGE IN A VIRTUAL TEST RUN PRIOR TO THE ACTUAL PROCEDURE. customized surgical plan while also providing an opportunity for surgeons to engage in a virtual test run prior to the actual procedure. Remember that while many joint surgeries are now performed as outpatient procedures, rehabilitation and temporary mobility issues may slow you down in the short term. Plan your journey with that possibility in mind. You may have a new hip or knee, but serious sightseeing up hills and along ancient cobblestone lanes post-surgery may be more than you’re up to. Organize your leisure and exploration time for the days leading up to your treatment, and save the time after surgery for restorative spa and wellness indulgences.

EVERYTHING TRAVEL, A TO Z

Under 40 and planning travel? Trazeetravel.com is the resource for the under-40 traveler. A network of journalists updates travelers daily with content on subjects of unique interest to the millennial traveler: TRENDS — The trendy ways to travel, from spring break trips to voluntourism, fitness vacations and everything in between. PRODUCTS — Information about the essentials needed for travel, including the latest technology, entertainment, beauty and travel products. TIPS — Nuggets of wisdom about destinations, safety and travel to ensure your trip goes as smoothly as possible. TOP 5 — Our Top 5 lists cover the best of the best in destinations around the globe. UNDER $100 — If you need to see a destination on a budget, we will help you learn how to enjoy a city for $100 or less. REVIEWS — Learn about the best and worst airlines, hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and more.

PREVIEW

Airport Artwork Airports around the world display collections of art to engage and entertain passengers. Denver International Airport delights travelers with Luminous Wind, a 27-foot-tall sculpture inspired by innovation, energy and the natural environment. Learn more when you read Ron Bernthal’s article about airport artwork in next month’s Class Act Guide. PHOTO: © DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

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Kimpton George Hotel

Kimpton Hotel Monaco Washington DC

TWO VIBRANT DC HOTELS AWAIT YOUR RETURN For more information or to confirm your next Kimpton DC experience, visit our websites WWW.HOTELGEORGE.COM | WWW.MONACO-DC.COM