September 2017 Global Traveler

globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

September 2017

ISLAND HOPPING

EXPLORE HAWAI’I’S TROPICAL BEAUTY, ONE ISLE AT A TIME. p. 68

DETROIT p. 60 GÖTEBORG p. 54 LUXEMBOURG p. 62 RIBERA DEL DUERO p. 74 ST. PETERSBURG p. 64 SÃO PAULO p. 66 TANZANIA p. 72

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letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

TRENDS IN TRAVEL AS INTREPID TRAVELERS, you know some trips allow for meticulous advance planning, dotting all the I’s and crossing every T. However, others are a bit more spur-of-themoment, when a client or an activity pops up unexpectedly and next thing you know, you’re changing your schedule, packing a bag and searching for airfare and hotels. My trip to London this summer was planned over a five-month period, while my trip to Chicago a few weeks prior was booked and planned just a few days before departure. We are not alone, especially when it comes to the more last-minute adventures, and the travel industry is taking notice. Turn to page 38 to learn more about what’s available to assist in those quickturnaround trips.

LONDON CALLING: Kimberly Krol in London One aspect of travel that usually requires PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL some advance planning and coordination: family travel. From researching kid-friendly restaurants to coordinating the schedules of several family members or finding places to see to please a range of budgets, there’s quite a bit that goes into planning the perfect family escape. Allow us to help: I’m excited to announce this month marks the launch of our newest web publication, whereverfamily.com. Updated daily, WhereverFamily is the trusted travel source for modern families. We break it down by age group and budget, offer tips and tricks, give you quick hits of important information and cover the premier family travel destinations around the globe. Check out whereverfamily.com today; don’t forget about the other fantastic online offerings from the GT family: globaltravelerusa.com and trazeetravel.com. And, as always, you can rely on our monthly Friends & Family article; this month, we island hop around Hawai’i on page 68.

And that’s just one of the destinations we take you to this month. Our around-the-world journey also includes stops in Adelaide, Göteborg, Detroit, Luxembourg, St. Petersburg, São Paulo, Tanzania and the Ribera del Duero. Also, join the party with us as we recap our Leisure Lifestyle Awards event on page 44.

Next month we take a closer look at United Airlines, kick back in Boracay and so much more.

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editorial Coordinator JENNA PAYESKO jenna.payesko@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Digital Coordinator ALLIE MENZIONE allie.menzione@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

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ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD,

SCO The UNE Cities Creative designated Network City of a de Adelai 2015.

Music in e about Read mor on Adelaide page 50.

TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

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letter from the publisher ® ®

ALOHA! I TOOK ONE OF THE most fantastic flights from North America: Hawaiian Airlines flight 51 from JFK to Honolulu, 9.5 hours. I can’t believe how easy it was. The service was superb, and I enjoyed the airline’s award-winning Prosecco, recently named Best Sparkling Wine in Global Traveler’s Wines on the Wing airline wine competition. My fellow passengers took note of my DRIVING SPIRIT: Francis X. Gallagher in his Hertz rental, a Mustang convertible conversation with the flight PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER attendant and the August issue of Global Traveler featuring the Wines on the Wing results, and joined me in a glass to salute the winning selection.

Once I arrived in Honolulu, I was to head directly to Turtle Bay Resort to play the Palmer Course (see my review on page 32); and although Honolulu International Airport is confusing (a few more signs would help), I entered the Hertz office with droves of people. As soon as I walked in, an attendant asked, “Any gold members here?” I said, “Yes!” and was whisked out the door and up the ramp to my Mustang convertible.

Gold is the best and fastest service — I recently experienced a similarly quick turnaround in Fort Myers, Fla. Note the Prince Waikiki completed a $54 million refresh that converted all guestrooms into modern masterpieces with all the technology a traveler needs. Comfortable beds, lots of outlets and other amenities make for a pleasant stay.

This issue contains the recap article from our Leisure Lifestyle Awards gala that took place at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills. It was a wonderful, fun-filled evening during which I awarded the best in leisure travel while Polynesian entertainment livened up the gathering.

Finally, we extended voting for the GT Tested Reader Survey through this month; a ballot appears on page 27 and at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot. Vote for all your favorites — there is some stiff competition, and I predict a lot of surprises. Recent mergers seem to have affected branding reputations, so your guess is as good as mine as to who will come up tops in the categories. We will present the awards Dec. 12 at The Peninsula Beverly Hills, on the rooftop if weather permits.

Until next month, enjoy your travels!

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contents

September 2017 38

54

FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

38 Spur of the Moment Thanks to mobile booking apps, last-minute travel is on the rise.

54 Destination One: Göteborg Göteborg retains its Swedish character as it transforms into a large urban center.

44 Leisure Lifestyle Awards 2017 Global Traveler celebrates this year’s winners in high style.

60 Stateside: Detroit On the path to recovery, Detroit expands the visitor experience.

50 Undiscovered Gem Adelaide boasts superb hotels, venues and music in a Mediterranean climate.

52 6

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ON THE COVER

62 9–5: Luxembourg The city of contrasts captivates with old and new, local and international.

36

64 After 5: St. Petersburg Step out to St. Petersburg’s abundant theaters, clubs and bars.

SEPTEMBER 2017

62

globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

September 2017

ISLAND HOPPING

EXPLORE HAWAI’I’S TROPICAL BEAUTY, ONE ISLE AT A TIME. p. 68

DETROIT p. 60 GÖTEBORG p. 54 LUXEMBOURG p. 62 RIBERA DEL DUERO p. 74 ST. PETERSBURG p. 64 SÃO PAULO p. 66 TANZANIA p. 72

COVER PHOTO: KELLY SLATER SURFING PIPELINE IN HAWAI'I PHOTO: © PAUL TOPP | DREAMSTIME.COM

PHOTOS: © NICOLAS BATES, © EXPEDIA, © RON BERNTHAL, © MADRABOTHAIR | DREAMSTIME..COM

44

INTRODUCING HERTZ ULTIMATE CHOICE.

®

CHOOSE THE CAR THAT’S RIGHT FOR YOU. With Hertz Ultimate Choice*, you can choose the vehicle that’s right for you and get on your way even faster. The car you choose is the car you drive. It’s that simple.

HERTZ.COM *Available at select locations. © 2017 Hertz System, Inc. All rights reserved.

contents

September 2017

68

74

28

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

25 26 28 30 32 36 37 78 80

10 Mail Call 13 News 18 Reviews 23 One on One Seoul Tourism Organization 24 One on One City Winery 79 Airport Update 82 Past & Present

66 Neighborhoods: São Paulo Find quietude and culture in tony Jardim Paulista.

Technology Wine & Spirits Spoils Spas Wealth Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health

68 Friends & Family: Hawai’i Explore Hawai’i’s tropical beauty, one isle at a time.

72 Bucket List: Tanzania Encounter incredible wildlife in the stunning landscape of Tanzania.

74 Kicking Back: Ribera del Duero Indulge in the genuine hospitality of Spain’s Ribera del Duero.

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SEPTEMBER 2017

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2017 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © TROPICDREAMS | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KIMBERLY KROL, © NATIVE EYEWEAR, © FELICITY LONG

72

mail call JULY Q&A: JENNA PAYESKO, ADVERTISING AND EDITORIAL COORDINATOR

Q&A

WITH ALLIE MENZIONE, ASSISTANT DIGITAL COORDINATOR

In the July issue, Jenna shared a few highlights from her recent trip to Los Angeles, including The Getty Center, Santa Monica Pier and the Hollywood Walk of Fame. She asked: When traveling to a new destination, do you visit the tourist hot spots, or do you create your own?

I recently traveled to Greece, where I visited Athens and the islands of Mykonos and Santoríni. During my stay I had the opportunity to see the jaw-dropping views over the Caldera, take a sunset catamaran tour and swim in the Aegean Sea. It was a stunning destination, and each stop was beautiful in its own way. I think it’s the ideal destination for a wedding or honeymoon and hope to go back some day.

Have you traveled to Greece? If so, what was your favorite city or island?

I think a healthy combination of both makes for the best trip.

Attractions are often famous for a reason; and if you only get to go somewhere once in a lifetime, it’s worth seeking out some of the hot spots. You’re not going to go to Paris for the first time and not see the Eiffel Tower. That being said, to really experience a destination, you have to venture off the beaten path. Stumble into a tiny café or restaurant you’d never find on TripAdvisor, and check out a quirky museum or art gallery. My husband and I love renting a car when we can because we always seem to find the best, random places that way.

I remember the first time I went to L.A. in my early twenties, and I hit all of the top spots — Rodeo Drive, Santa Monica Beach, the Hollywood sign. I don’t seek these places out anymore, but you can’t visit L.A. without experiencing them at least once.

GLORIA HARLAN, via email I’m glad you had a great time, Jenna. I’m in LA for work so often I forget about some of

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

its more charming attributes.

I always dread the flight and especially the traffic, but when I first started traveling there for business, I used to love seeking out live music at night after work. There’s a place called The Mint that’s been around forever, and they have great new music in every genre. I was also impressed by The Getty Center when I visited a few years back.

MARK PARADA, via email

ROMANTIC DESTINATIONS Loved the romantic destinations slideshow! My husband and I went to Hawai’i on our honeymoon and loved it, but we went to Martinique for our 25-year anniversary, and it was even better. We went hiking a couple times, explored Fort-de-France and, of course, lounged on the beach. I had never seen a more beautiful beach than Les Salines.

We strongly recommend Martinique for a romantic getaway.

We’d love to visit Santoríni and Prague — maybe for our 30th and 35th anniversaries!

HELEN CARDONA, via email

TRAVEL INSURANCE I never got travel insurance when I was younger. It wasn’t until I started caring for my elderly parents that I realized how often things come up out of the blue.

My husband and I had a trip to Nice planned when my mom got sick, and I didn’t want to leave her alone. We did have insurance, and we were fortunate enough to get most of our money back. If for no other reason than preparing for life’s curve balls, I always recommend travel insurance. You really never know.

CAROL MORGAN, via email

TRAVEL SHOES Thanks for the great gift ideas!

I have to add Rockport ballet flats for ladies on the go. They’re adorable and incredibly comfortable. I wear them to work sometimes, but they’re a musthave at the airport. They have a tiny bit of a heel, so you don’t get that pain you sometimes get with completely flat shoes.

ANN RINER, via email

CEO SERIES Great new CEO Series. I love the little-known fact section. I thought Mr. Bastian’s tip about bringing chargers was a little obvious, but I appreciated his tip about developing a relationship with your favorite airline. While every airline offers a rewards program, I love that I’ve started to see the same people over and over again. Having the staff of a large airline recognize you is

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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Falkla ion. cruises is no except ticated golf simula isters 15 golf Arenas and the pment of sophis and com, Kalos Golf, admin 4–18 on Crystal Cruises’ tees develo the agency balls, to er clubs, thanks Anoth ying Jan. ct games — emplo a South Africa cruise 1997 on Princess on AmaWahigh-tech, compa 2018, including first appeared in and wine cruise ea g ranges, tion screens — a Bordeaux golf puterized projec west cruise on Silvers So have netted drivin Crystal Symphony, have proliferated. , and a Pacific North a passenger’s Cruises, and they hand to fine-tune terways May 16–27 teaching pros at r Sept. 5–15. ara cruise lines putting greens and to golfers, Azam Cruises’ Silver Explore real fairways, some most dedicated while line seeking play on call, of cruise l cruises those the ports s For specia swing.

Perhap at selected olf for six to book tee times d up with PerryG Iberian teame the emed cruise. s, tralia, golf-th Cruise a now make it easy : d/Aus Club sailing s from ries in New Zealan ultimate golfer’s n Gulf others offer the a golf cruise sweep Sea, the Arabia in 2018, with itinera n at a golf resort, Riviera, the Baltic er of at the final Unlike a vacatio sea to tee at a numb Peninsula, the French includes attendance s of ng its guests from to change Kingdom (which port to port, shuttli olf oversees all aspect s. There’s no need and the United world-class course British Open). PerryG and caddies to handling addresses the widely separated gs round of the 147th golf cruise also , from daily pairin along the way. A non-golfing a cruises on g ions cruises golf golf es modat enablin by ara’s er) accom Azam olf also arrang golf widow (or widow ean and the pant’s clubs. PerryG including exotic Caribb partici the sailing, l complaints of the in each of norma yachts the options of a Club’s two megaspouse to enjoy all SeaDream Yacht ions.

Golfs and are agencies. One such, ports and shore excurs French Riviera. r with small group usually run by private especially popula es full golfing couples split Golf cruises are Golf cruises are and now provid and birthdays. For the concept in 1988 for anniversaries Hawaii golf the world’s great Ahoy, pioneered often given as gifts GolfAhoy’s Circle by sea and golf ships worldwide. to tour the world on Norwegian desire a suites n use services on 193 perfect unifier. betwee service and pentho cruise can be the ing Dec. in luxury, a golf s cruises feature butler Year’s cruise depart course New A . of America by special admis Cruise Line’s Pride courses capped at five Hawai’ian 30 includes golf

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JASON BROGAN, via email

JULY 2017

a great way to start a trip. When you travel a lot without your family, it’s always nice feeling a bit of camaraderie on the road.

DAVID HALVORSON, via email

ON THE SAFE SIDE I thought Ms. Leperi’s article was thorough and insightful about a subject that makes a lot of businesses nervous right now. The most important takeaway for me, as a frequent business traveler, is to gain strategic perspective. Be prepared.

Whether I’m booking a trip myself or my company books for me, I always try to take some time to make sure I know what/ where I’m getting into. Something as seemingly small as knowing if/how much to tip or what vaccines are recommended can make a difference on your trip. Don’t hop on a plane assuming you’ll “figure it out.”

There’s a time and place to be spontaneous, but a business trip is not one of those times, in my opinion. We’re lucky to have programs like the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program — take advantage of it!

ERIK PETERSEN, via email

MUSEUM VISITS The Getty Center is one of my favorite

12

I have to say, after all my years golfing, I’ve never been on a golf cruise. Thanks to J.D. Brown and Margaret Backenheimer for reminding me this is something I need to try. My wife and I love Azamara cruises, and my son also golfs, so we might have to check out the cruise line’s U.K. itinerary. Thanks again!

globaltravelerusa.com

SEPTEMBER 2017

places in Los Angeles. The Getty actually has two campuses. The Getty Center is the newer one. The original — the Getty Villa in Malibu — is also beautiful.

I enjoyed the brief article on Spain’s Basque country in the July issue of GT. Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum is on our bucket list!

My wife and I have visited the Frank Gehry-designed Biomuseum in Panama City. I believe Frank Gehry’s wife is from Panama and was helpful in inspiring him to design the museum. In contrast to other Gehry-designed buildings, which are bare metal, the museum in Panama City is a riot of colors. Gerry’s inspiration for the colors was the native birds and plants. It is a spectacular building and the exhibits are absorbing and informative. If you haven’t visited Panama City, I would recommend it for two–three days. The Panama Canal’s Miraflores Locks is also an interesting attraction, as well as the old colonial section of the city. Additionally, Panama is centrally located between North and South America with good non-stop connections from many cities both north and south. With many large hotels, it is a good location for multinational companies and international organizations to hold meetings.

MARVIN SINGER, via email

HANGZHOU

IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE kicking back | COOK

ISLANDS

fine vines

TEL AVIV

Torrontés Tango

FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY

Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.

I

n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods.

As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20.

And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites.

Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish.

Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes on to be a clearly focused, intensely flavored, bright and satisfying wine.

IN THE COOK ISLANDS, on Rarotonga, I’m walking along a dusty path, edged There is a suggestion of by a plethora of plants and trees. Fat papayas hang from their umbrella-like sweet mint and an evocation trees; bananas, still green on the stem, invite; and mangos, ripe and ready, have of orange and peach in Finca fallen from their roost. Blossoming bushes waft a perfume, butterflies circle halos La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, around my head, and a stream gurgles nearby. A mother sow and her family of followed by a relatively full body cartoonish piglets join me on the road. Not one but 10 roosters crow in competing symphonies — though early morning is long past. The sea lies nearby, but and excellent balance. Altogether a here, hiking inland, surrounded by steep hills and much vegetation, I feel like the pleasing, inviting wine. only person left on Earth.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) Luckily, I’m not. I share this walk with one of the Cook Islands’ most Ease body, mind andoffering soul ain is clean, crisp and refreshing, famous residents, a larger-than-life figure known as Uncle Pa, once a world typical Torrontés floral flavor with pear the natural goodness of the surfing champion. Though an octogenarian, he wears long dreadlocks, treks and peach overtones and a gentle reminder shirtless and sports a colorful sarong. With rippling muscles and the physique of citrus fruits in the A particularly of a 30-year-old man, he belies aging and serves as the metaphorical poster Cook Islands.

BY mouth.

BECCA HENSLEY harmonious wine. child for his role as this island nation’s most famous healer. An herbalist or The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) kahuna, he learned from his grandmother about the power of the plants that BEACHSIDE BLISS:herbal notes grow on these less-traveled islands. Intuitive, fearless, with a foot in both the combines keen fruit flavors, Spa treatment on the beach at and a fresh lemony acidity with a trace of past and the modern world, Uncle Pa has helped thousands of people regain Aitutaki Lagoon their health over the years. As we walk, he picks leaves, flowers, berries and honey and floral tones.

PHOTO: © STEVE ALLEN | DREAMSTIME.COM Following its aroma of fresh flowers and ripefruit. He tells me how he makes elixirs or poultices from them; he lets me taste fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with notes reminiscent of grapefruit.

72citric globaltravelerusa.com JUNE 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste. 

Art of Healing

INFO TO GO

A variety of international airlines fly to Rarotonga International Airport on the Cook Islands’ main island. In December 2016 Air New Zealand began weekly non-stop flights on its comfortable Boeing 777-200 aircraft, which offers a new premium-economy option, from Los Angeles (LAX), making the trek from the United States easier than ever.

ICELAND

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A

May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35

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news Le Collectionist Brings Luxury to Short-Term Rentals

PONANT LAUNCHES UNDERWATER LOUNGES

Cruise lines continually search for new ways to set themselves apart and attract new passengers. One such new attraction comes from French luxury cruise line Ponant, which in the next two years will debut an underwater cocktail lounge on board its new Explorer ships.

Blue Eye lounges will feature two large portholes through which imbibers can view the sea life that surrounds them, plus scattered digital screens that display scenes of the same underwater creatures, accompanied by serene sounds of the ocean.

Lounge goers will also have the opportunity to recline in vibrating lounge chairs and listen to deeper ocean sounds through headphones, mimicking an underwater diving experience without having to gear up or get wet.

PHOTOS: © PONANT / JACQUES ROUGERIE ARCHITECTE, © SURF AIR

ponant.com

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As Airbnb continues to expand its presence in the global travel market by offering unique lodging and excursions to travelers seeking a more authentic experience, a new company joined the exclusive accommodation ranks, but for the more upmarket traveler.

Le Collectionist, a 2-yearold company based in France, provides luxury living spaces for travelers with the biggest budgets. Each property has a story, which lends a personal-

ized and sometimes historic element to the stay.

With more than 1,000 properties on six continents, Le Collectionist advertises private villas and chalets for rent in some of the world’s most desirable locations such as the French Alps, Greek islands and Côte d’Azur.

Rather than spitting out a list of properties for potential guests to scroll through, Le Collectionist staff members reach out to interested parties directly, offering them a tailored — but brief — list of options based on their individual needs. lecollectionist.com

Surf Air Expands Jet Rental to Europe

Hiring a private jet for quick jaunts like business meetings and conferences is about to reach new heights and a new destination: Europe. California-based luxury jet rental service Surf Air plans to expand its services across the pond and connect major European cities with each other via private jet.

Since the service began three years ago, members have been able to subscribe for a monthly fee of $1,950 and travel quickly and luxuriously around Southern California, Las Vegas and the San Francisco Bay Area. Now, as of November 2016, members have access to a fleet of planes in Europe for a monthly fee of slightly more than $3,000. European destinations include London, Geneva, Cannes and Ibiza, with other locations to be introduced this year.

Currently, members can only use the service to which they have subscribed (either in the United States or Europe), but Surf Air hopes to integrate the two memberships in the future, offering one subscription service for both regions. surfair.com

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news

Norwegian’s Next European Destination

In early 2018 additional flights to the Italian capital will depart from Oakland International Airport for $229 each way. Also in 2018, weekly flights from Newark will increase to six times per week, and flights from the West Coast will increase from two times per week to three times per week.

The prices are for economy seats aboard energy-saving Boeing 787 Dreamliners, but premium cabin seats are also available for $539 each way from Newark and $719 each way from the West Coast.

This fall, international budget airline Norwegian Air will expand its trans-Atlantic service with new routes from major U.S. cities to Rome’s Fiumicino Airport.

Beginning Nov. 9, four weekly flights will depart from Newark Liberty International Airport for only $189 per direction, plus Norwegian’s infamous extras that passengers must add on if desired, such as checked baggage, in-flight meals and seat selection. On Nov. 11, the first non-stop flight from Los Angeles International Airport to Rome will take place with one-way prices starting at $229.

Frequent travelers interested in applying for the U.S. Customs and Border Protection Global Entry program are now able to interview for the service when they return from a trip abroad.

Candidates must first apply and receive approval for the expedited security screening program, which includes an online application and background check.

If approved for the interview stage, travelers who land at Houston (HOU and IAH), Austin (AUS), San Francisco (SFO) or Vancouver (YVR) airports after an international trip can complete the interview process upon landing. cbp.gov

norwegian.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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Custom build your new car and choose to pick it up in Gothenburg, Sweden … then take a vacation, on Volvo.

Your Overseas Delivery experience begins when you order your new Volvo.

Most OSD vehicles receive a discount of 2–4% off base US MSRP and no OSD customer pays a destination charge — ever! In addition to the cost savings, certain colors and single options are exclusive to OSD vehicles, such as the new 2018 XC60 exterior colors Electric Silver Metallic and Mussel Blue Metallic.

Once you’ve ordered your dream Volvo, Overseas Delivery customers receive an order confirmation package and the

next step is for you to contact our Travel Concierge - Corporate Travel, who will help you plan and make suggestions for your once-in-a-lifetime vacation.

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2 complimentary round-trip premium-economy fares via our preferred airline, SAS 1 complimentary hotel night at The Hotel Post located in Downtown Gothenburg Private transfers from airport and hotel Lunch/Factory Tour and sign for your new Volvo (Also visit our

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To begin your Overseas Delivery experience, contact your authorized Volvo Retailer, visit www.volvocars.com/us/OSD or call Overseas Delivery Customer Care at 1-800-631-1667.

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PHOTOS: © PÉTER GUDELLA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CORINA DANIELA OBERTAS | DREAMSTIME.COM,

Global Entry Interviews on Arrival

PHOTOS: © FLY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CLUB BWI

news

Rosé Festival for Breast Cancer Awareness

The recent resurgence of rosé wine has taken the culinary world by storm, and nowhere is this more evident than in Napa Valley, where the first rosé festival took place in June.

The inaugural RoséFest occurred June 24 at Sterling Vineyards and featured tastings of more than 30 of the region’s finest rosé wines. For $65, attendees could purchase general admission tickets that included a souvenir glass and tastings from all wineries. VIP tickets cost $85 and allowed access to private areas and one meal ticket to use at one of the four food trucks.

Festival officials partnered with breast cancer advocacy group Susan G. Komen and donated a portion of the proceeds toward education, research and patient care.

Club BWI Upscale Airport Experience

naparosefest.com

bwiairport.com

Baltimore-Washington International Airport opened Club BWI, a private-access lounge for travelers who desire a slightly more upscale airport experience.

Located in Concourse D, Club BWI is not affiliated with any airline, meaning any and all passengers can access the space for the one-day fee of $40. The sleekly designed lounge of 2,200 square feet offers free, high-speed WiFi; a wide variety of free cocktails and snacks; and copious electrical outlets to recharge devices.

Club BWI visitors can pay an extra $10 to visit Roam Fitness for a quick workout and shower before flights. The lounge opens every day 5 a.m.–8:30 p.m.

THE EXPERIENCE BEGINS IN EUROPE

VOLVO OVER SE AS D EL I VERY Personalize the Volvo of your choice and receive two round-trip plane tickets to Volvo’s hometown of Gothenburg, Sweden. Pick up your car from the country that inspired its design and then set off on an unforgettable adventure. The land of Volvo – and beyond – is yours to explore.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT YOUR LOCAL VOLVO DEALER OR CALL (800) 631–1667.

CHECK OUT VOLVOCARS.COM/US/MYBAGSAREPACKED VolvoOSD 5.25.indd 2

7/28/17 8:50 PM

deals & rewards Get 30,000 Points with JetBlue Plus

Sign up for a JetBlue Plus Card to earn 30,000 TrueBlue points after spending $1,000 in the first 90 days. New cardholders can also earn 5,000 bonus points with each year of membership and six points per dollar spent on all JetBlue-related purchases.

TrueBlue members can enjoy points that never expire, 50 percent discounts on in-flight services such as meals and beverages, and one free checked bag for all flights. Cardholders can also earn one year of True Mosaic status after spending $50,000 in one calendar year. jetblue.com

Hilton Honors Ends Rental Car Partnerships Bigger Bonus from Chase IHG

Chase increased its signup bonus for its IHG credit card from 60,000 points to 80,000 points, with the annual fee of $49 waived for the first year of membership. In order to take advantage of this offer, new cardholders must spend $1,000 within the first three months.

Perks that come with the Chase IHG card include a free night’s stay at any IHG property across the globe, platinum IHG elite status and a rebate of 10 percent when redeeming points. chase.com/credit-cards/ihg

Amex Credit for Marriott Stays

The rewards program associated with select American Express credit cards offers a new promotion in collaboration with Marriott Hotels. Cardholders who book a stay of $150 or more at any participating U.S. Marriott hotel can earn $30 back after their stay.

Stays must take place before Oct. 31 and must be booked directly with Marriott Hotels and Resorts. Cardholders can find this targeted Amex offer on their American Express account summary page. amexoffers.com marriott.com

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SEPTEMBER 2017

Until the end of September, Chase Freedom cardholders can earn five times the normal amount of miles earned when going to the movies or going out to eat.

Card members who register Chase Freedom cards for the promotion before Sept. 14 can use their card at

restaurants and movie theaters and earn five miles per dollar. Save your restaurant tabs and ticket stubs, because you can claim retroactive points for activity that began as early as July 1.

Look for a full list of qualifying restaurants and movie theaters at Chase’s website. chase.com

PHOTOS: © IHG, © VALENTINO VISENTINI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CAROLYN FRANKS | DREAMSTIME.COM,

hiltonhonors3.hilton.com

Earn Summer Fun Miles with Chase

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This summer the Hilton Honors rewards program terminated its relationship with four rental car agencies, removing the chance to earn Hilton Honors points when hiring vehicles with these companies.

Beginning July 31, Hilton’s partnership with Sixt and Europcar ended, followed by terminating partnerships with Avis and Budget on Aug 31. Hilton Honors members will still be able to earn points by booking with Hilton’s preferred rental car agencies including Alamo, Enterprise and National Car Rental.

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CONRAD CHICAGO Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The hotel robes at Conrad Chicago are, without a doubt, the most sumptuous and comfortable of any hotel robe I’ve ever worn. ◆ Weekend brunch at the lobby-level Baptiste & Bottle is a must — Carly and I enjoyed the unlimited Bloody Mary & Mimosa Bar, which boasted myriad toppings, seasonings and juices, and we both agreed the skillet cinnamon rolls were some of the best we’d ever tasted. ◆ The Conrad Chicago recently reopened in its new location on Erie Street.

For those who remember the former property, you’ll agree the new location is much more convenient and easy to find.

Guest Quarters: My Michigan Avenue View guestroom felt new and untouched — almost pristine. From the entryway, the bathroom, outfitted in light gray granite and boasting a huge vanity, double sinks, tons of lighting options, a large shower and a separate water closet, was to the left, with closets lining the right wall.

In the bedroom area, the king-sized bed (quite com-

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fortable, might I add) was flanked by two nightstands and situated across from the 65-inch HD TV and credenza. A couch sat underneath the windows overlooking Michigan Avenue, with a glass-topped table that doubled as the desk perched at the end. A desk chair sat opposite.

All the guestrooms feature Nespresso coffeemakers, in-room movies, Bluetooth A/V technology and a full glassware set.

Services/Amenities: Il Tavolino, at ground level, is a hybrid coffeehouse/Italian café, serving breakfast and lunch. On the 20th floor, Baptiste & Bottle serves breakfast and dinner and a full bar seven days a week. A rooftop restaurant and bar is open seasonally. Each of the three restaurants is by Richard Sandoval. Conrad Chicago offers 10,000 square feet of meeting and event space, with natural light a highlight of the function rooms. The hotel’s location just steps from Michigan Avenue also lends itself to 360-degree city views from around the property. Carly and I both enjoyed workouts in the well-equipped fitness center.

◆ Our May visit did not coincide with the seasonal opening of Noyane, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant serving contemporary Japanese cuisine, craft cocktails and views of downtown Chicago, but I hope to visit the outpost on a future visit.

Conrad Chicago 101 E. Erie St. Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312 667 6700 conradchicagohotel.com

PHOTOS: © CONRAD CHICAGO

Arrival/Check-In: The Conrad Chicago’s lobby is on the 20th floor; I arrived early in the morning with my colleague, Carly Allen. As we made our way up to the lobby, we both hoped for some time to work before dashing to our first meeting. Unfortunately, our rooms weren’t ready, but the spacious, multilevel lobby with floor-to-ceiling windows boasting views of downtown Chicago offered plenty of comfortable areas to connect to the complimentary WiFi and answer emails. The reception staff was warm and welcoming; and by the time we returned from our first meeting, our rooms were ready and our bags were already waiting.

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FAIRMONT SINGAPORE Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

PHOTOS: © FAIRMONT SINGAPORE

Arrival/Check-In: I flew to Singapore from Seoul on Asiana Airlines flight 751, a late flight that did not get me to Changi Airport until 9:45 p.m. Since my arrival to the hotel was late, I appreciated the swift check-in at the Fairmont Hotel. The hotel complex comprises the Fairmont and the Swissôtel, and guests can use either property’s facilities, offering a vast number of dining establishments.

I stayed in room 1717, a mini suite overlooking the city.

Guest Quarters: The hotel has an almost Ottoman-meetsAsia décor, clean and functional. On the immediate left in my suite, a king-sized bed sat alongside a night table with a control panel to operate nearly everything in the room.

A seating area with a tasteful glass coffee table held a nice welcome amenity of fresh fruit, nuts, chocolate and a bottle of wine. A sofa with a built-in chaise sat against the wall, facing a flat-screen TV and entertainment area, and the desk occupied the far corner. Each guestroom provides an iPad for working and reading, as well as ample outlets and connections at the desk and throughout the room.

A nifty makeup table opened to provide a mirror and lighting. When not in use, it can be closed and used as an additional workstation or table. The bathroom featured a single sink and was decorated with white and black

marble. A separate tub and a powerful shower completed the room. Abundant amenities in the bathroom included Rose 31 shampoo, conditioner and lotions. If you forget any toiletries, the hotel has them, including a dental kit, nail kit, vanity kit and a large bath soap, which I appreciated.

Services/Amenities: Between business meetings and dinner I took the time for a massage at the Willow Stream Spa. An absolutely wonderful aromatherapy massage really helped me get back into the swing of things with all my flights to and within Asia. I recommend a stop for any traveler; you really only need about an hour and a half to rejuvenate!

Between the two properties, there are many restaurants and bars to choose from. I was fond of the mixologists in the Fairmont’s lobby bar, Lobby Court, where they mixed a tasty bourbon Manhattan. Prego serves a nice indoor breakfast and offers meals all day, specializing in Italian cuisine. Alligator Pear, bridging the two properties, offers poolside dining and a good breakfast buffet. Mikuni offers Japanese cuisine, which we enjoyed one day for lunch between appointments. Honestly, I needed more time to sample all the different restaurants at the property — and remember, Singapore is a foodie mecca, with many places to visit outside the hotel.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ Great doormen stand always ready to get you a cab or offer assistance. ◆ You can’t beat this location — you can walk to many hot spots from the hotel as long as you do not get caught in a sudden Singapore thunderstorm.

Fairmont Singapore 80 Bras Basah Road Singapore 189560 tel 65 6339 7777 fairmont.com

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CHINA AIRLINES | BUSINESS CLASS

New York (JFK) to Taipei (TPE)

Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

Pre-Flight: I appreciated the pre-flight snacks and selections of wine and other drinks. I am particularly impressed with China Airlines’ Champagne selection (Pol Roger 2004) and choice of Johnny Walker Blue Scotch. In addi-

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tion, it serves from full bottles, an elegant touch that adds to the private club feel of its business class. The gent next to me noticed my order of JWB and followed my lead — we “cheered” each other as the plane taxied. I sat in the middle section of the business class; each seat has its own aisle exit, and I found the seat roomy and comfortable.

In-Flight: If you have not flown China Airlines’ business class in a while, I suggest you try it. The flat bed is relaxing, allowing for a good night’s sleep. Entertainment abounds, and I watched several movies, enjoyed a Chineseinspired dinner and took a full night’s sleep. As the departure was past midnight, it made rest feel quite normal.

On my return, I was seated on the right side of the aircraft in a single window seat. Again, the meal service and crew were tops. The Taipei–New York flight offered a selection of canapés and appetizers followed by a choice of pork mushroom stew with warm rice, grilled halibut in miso sauce and grilled chicken with spicy black pepper sauce. I opted for the halibut, which was tasty and prepared me for my sleep to NYC. During the flight, attendants offered snacks including various noodle soups. Before landing, they served breakfast, both traditional Chinese and Western.

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ The wood décor in business class helps passengers feel relaxed in a club-like ambience. ◆ The great China Airlines lounge in Taipei mirrors the look of the new business class.

China Airlines china-airlines.com

PHOTOS: © CHINA AIRLINES

On the Ground: I misjudged time and found myself on the Belt Parkway on the way to JFK with insufficient time to make the flight. Even so, I figured I would give it a try and do my best to park and go through security. I honestly thought my error meant I would stay overnight at the Hilton New York JFK Airport and catch the next flight the following day. As it happened, the team at China Airlines came to my rescue, ferrying me through security with the help of friendly TSA staff and onto the flight as the door closed behind me. My fellow passengers had no idea of my anxiety; and as I sat, we pulled back from the gate and I received all the amenities as if I’d been on the plane for 20 minutes. My colleague from Los Angeles was flying from LAX to Taipei to meet me, and she knew of my dilemma.

She texted me, asking if I made the flight; I replied, “Of course, I am a professional!” The reality is, China Airlines’ ground team made me look like a professional, and that is all a frequent traveler can ask for. Bravo for all they did to get me on the fight, with no delay to our departure — and we arrived early in Taipei!

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THE LANGHAM, LONDON Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

TOP TAKEAWAYS: ◆ One of my favorite aspects of my stay was the club-level access, with privileges including continental and hot breakfast selection, Champagne and cocktails available throughout the day, evening canapés, a sampling of afternoon tea, private check-in and check-out and exclusive butler and specialist concierge services.

PHOTO: © THE LANGHAM, LONDON

Arrival/Check-In: My overnight flight landed early in the morning, and I arrived at The Langham, London before 9 a.m. In the lobby I was directed to club level check-in on the third floor. In the lounge the friendly reception staff found me a table where I enjoyed a full breakfast spread before completing the check-in paperwork. My room wasn’t ready, so I set out for the day and picked up my keys at the lounge when I returned that afternoon; my bags had already been sent to my room.

Guest Quarters: The Langham, London boasts 333 guestrooms, five apartments with kitchens and 42 private suites. I was traveling with a friend, and our guestroom featured two twin beds with a nightstand in between. A small sitting area under the window included a round table and chair opposite a desk and TV/credenza. The door had an interesting locking mechanism which almost appeared broken at first glance. The room opened into a small entryway with a built-in closet and storage space.

The standout was the large marble bathroom, particularly the towel warmer. When we finally arrived at our room after a night of traveling and a day of sightseeing,

we were eager to shower and take a quick nap before the night ahead, and the lush bathroom was a welcome sight, with both a soaking tub and a separate shower.

Depending on the guestroom level, in-room amenities include Nespresso machines, complimentary WiFi, the Langham Blissful bed, MP3 player connectivity, a media hub to connect TVs and laptops, complimentary newspapers and continental power sockets.

Services/Amenities: The Langham, London recently opened The Wigmore, a modern British tavern on Regent Street. Roux at The Landau brings together father and son chef team Albert and Michel Roux. Artesian has won the World’s Best Bar accolade — the ice here is specially crafted — and serves all-day dining. Palm Court offers all-day light dining in addition to a famed afternoon tea. A special The Langham Afternoon Tea with Wedgwood serves Wedgwood specialty teas in Langham Rose Wedgwood tea ware.

The hotel’s function space runs the gamut from ballrooms to boardrooms. A 24-hour fitness center boasts state-of-the-art equipment, and a new wellness sanctuary, Chuan Body + Soul, recently debuted.

◆ Location, location, location — situated off Oxford Street at the end of the West End, The Langham, London is not only near many city highlights but also is conveniently located to the Oxford Circus Underground, just a fiveminute walk, and accessible to many parts of the city. ◆ The hotel’s history dates to 1865, and it is a luxury icon on the London hotel scene. It even includes some haunted lore, but I saw no evidence of ghostly happenings!

The Langham, London 1C Portland Place Regent Street, London W1B 1JA United Kingdom tel 44 20 7636 1000 langhamhotels.com

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FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ATLANTA Reviewed by Jenna Payesko

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

Guest Quarters: I was thrilled to learn I’d be staying in a recently renovated Midtown Deluxe room on the top floor. Exclusive to the 14th–19th floors of the hotel, the special guestrooms offer spectacular views of Midtown, Buckhead or Downtown Atlanta. The sleek room with a contemporary design featured a stylish palette of charcoal and bold accent colors like orange. Luxurious features included custom-curated art and a large walk-in marble shower. The large, double windows offered a light and airy feel next to the round, gray couch and wooden table. As I walked into the room, I noticed a tray of delicious goodies on the table that included a chocolate plate with candies, a blue-iced chocolate cake and a “Welcome to Atlanta” edible adornment — a wonderful touch.

The hotel boasts 244 ultra-spacious guestrooms, including 18 luxury suites on the first 19 floors of the 50-story Midtown hotel and residential tower. The

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king-sized bed was more than comfortable and made it quite impossible to leave after an excellent night’s sleep.

I thought the room was quite lovely, with its modern design offering an adequate amount of room to roam.

Services/Amenities: I had time at the hotel, allowing me to take advantage of several amenities at the beautiful property. While I didn’t have the opportunity to enjoy a spa treatment due to time constraints, I did make use of the luxurious fitness center, sauna and steam room — a perfect way to relax before a busy week. The fitness studio includes a complete range of free weights and extensive cardiovascular equipment and is stocked throughout the day with water bottles, fruit and fruit water; the gym also includes various phone chargers next to the water station. I walked around the indoor saline lap pool to the sun terrace to relax after my workout, finding comfortable, red-cushioned lounge seats and umbrellas.

The concierge was extremely helpful and friendly, looking up the closest walking distance place where I could grab a smoothie. Park 75 offers guests breakfast and lunch dishes with the freshest seasonal ingredients in specialties like the brioche French toast, red velvet pancakes and egg white frittata. Afternoon tea is also available at the restaurant with advance reservations for parties of 10 or more. Bar Margot is open for lunch, mid-afternoon, dinner and late-night bites.

◆ Looking for a quick bite? Stop

by Bar Margot for an afternoon snack — it’s the funky lounge you’ve been searching for. Serving lunch and dinner daily, the menu includes handmade pasta, charcuterie and cheeses, sandwiches, salads and high-quality coffee selections. I enjoyed the beets and greens salad and the lobster roll, both quite delicious. ◆ The hotel offers a premier address for meetings in the city, with indoor and outdoor well-appointed spaces of more than 15,500 square feet. The 15th-floor modern Penthouse Ballroom offers a view sure to wow guests at your next event.

Four Season Hotel Atlanta 75 14th St. N.E. Atlanta, GA 30309 tel 404 881 9898 fourseasons.com

PHOTOS: © FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ATLANTA

Arrival/Check-In: In the heart of Atlanta’s Midtown district I arrived at the Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta on a humid, overcast afternoon. Upon entering I was instantly greeted by the bellhop before being drawn to the gorgeous chandelier and grand staircase leading to the second level. Check-in went smoothly and only took a few minutes, as there was no line. The gentleman assisting me informed me my room, on the top floor, was ready and showed me to the elevators.

◆ The Four Seasons Hotel Atlanta is situated in the heart of Atlanta’s Midtown district, a 15-minute walk from Piedmont Park — home to a true oasis of greenery with more than 180 acres of open space, walking trails, tennis courts and playgrounds.

one on one

BYUNG-TAE KIM CEO and President, Seoul Tourism Organization Best advice for business travelers: Don’t overlook your health. Preparing your body before a trip with plenty of rest, exercise and a good diet ensures you’re at your best and ready for business as soon as you arrive.

PHOTO: © SEOUL TOURISM ORGANIZATION

Name: Byung-Tae Kim Title: CEO and president Company, city: Seoul Tourism Organization Number of employees: 125 Recent project: Creating local, authentic experiences for MICE visitors through new initiatives First job: Ahead of the 1988 Seoul Olympics, I noticed the only atlas maps were in Korean, and I published the first atlas maps of Korea in English, Chinese and Korean just in time for the event.

Little-known fact about you: For my mandatory military service, I was stationed in the DMZ, quite rigorous and tough but a rewarding and memorable experience.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Travelers no longer want to merely observe the local culture but rather immerse in it. That’s why we launched two new initiatives. The Discover Seoul Pass allows visitors to customize what

they want to see; they can visit 16 top Seoul attractions in 24 hours for $37, and a 48-hour pass will be released soon. OneMoreTrip.net enables visitors to book unique local experiences like Korean brewery tours, barbecue tours and traditional tea drinking with foot baths. Following the mobile IT trend, the Pass offers an official mobile app that displays detailed information about attractions and the time left on the pass, while One More Trip lets sellers and purchasers conduct transactions on the website.

Best career advice you’ve received: There’s always something to learn by observing others. Don’t just pick up the strengths and best traits from talented and successful individuals but also observe aspects to avoid to prevent making the same mistakes.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field?

I strongly believe in the benefits of partnerships and wrote a book on

the topic. There’s a limit to what you can achieve on your own, but the possibilities are endless when you partner. A good partnership makes up for each other’s weaknesses and strengthens each to do more.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: As a travel agent, I took a VIP fam tour in Canada with a big group.

When we had the opportunity to zip ]line, I volunteered to go first.

Everyone was surprised, but they didn’t know that in my military service I rappelled from helicopters in the air. That, and the colorful socks I wore, apparently made an impression, as I was nicknamed “Mr. Socks” and even received bright red socks as a parting gift!

One travel tip you cannot live without: I research the destination beforehand including its history, top attractions and popular trends. It helps me appreciate the destination even more.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from a visit to Seoul? Business and leisure travelers alike can expect a complete convention city, fulfilling their transportation needs with subways, buses and Uber to a range of accommodations from boutique hotels to large luxury complexes. They can shop at the largest range of duty-free stores in Seoul or experience our casinos.

For a traditional view, travelers can walk through one of the royal palaces or the Korean War Memorial Museum and take tea at traditional tea houses.

The experience starts with Incheon Airport, which has won best airport for 12 years and will expand as Terminal 2 is completed next year.

Tell our readers about Seoul Sky. Seoul Sky is part of the larger Lotte World Tower complex that fully opened in April. It’s currently the fifthtallest building in the world, and Seoul Sky is the world’s third-highest observatory, giving 360-degree views of Seoul and as far away as Incheon to the west. The deck will have a glass bottom for the more daring traveler.

What MICE offerings are available for travelers to Seoul? Seoul’s MICE program has a complete support system.

We offer groups a range of tools and support from promotions, bidding, subventions and site inspections to welcome messages for guests at their airport arrival. STO can provide customized city tours that work best for your group and stay, with options like a full day of gastronomy experiences or a tour of palaces over a few days.

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one on one

MICHAEL DORF CEO, City Winery One travel tip you cannot live without: Pack lightly. Excessive packing is such a waste. It gives you mobility to travel with everything you need on your back.

Best advice for business travelers: Use frequent-flyer and hotel loyalty programs.

If you are fastidious, you can earn a free vacation every year. You are also prioritized when things go wrong.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Tell our readers more about the concept behind City Winery.

I created City Winery as a place I would go as a patron. I looked for a few key components: an intimate cultural facility; a great wine list served in glasses, not plastic like at other entertainment venues; food to complement the wine; a seated environment; respect of the patron’s time; and the ability to combine culture, food and beverage into one window.

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YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years?

The trend in the retail/hospitality worlds will continue to be experiential programs. As we become more digital and wired, there’s a need for physicality and experience.

Best career advice you’ve received: From my father and my grandfather: Integrity is the most important thing, even more important than making money.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Believe in what you do and find your calling. If you are extremely passionate, there’s no difference between

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work and play. Be willing to do anything to make it happen — I slept under my desk on a futon at the Knitting Factory for three years, living and breathing it.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: On a family trip to Mexico when I was a teenager, our bus trip stopped on a mountain. As I stepped off the bus, I noticed smoke and was able to help the driver remove some bags before the bus burnt to the ground. All of my stuff was gone, and I showed up at the U.S. Consulate with no identification. Luckily, my mom had sown my name in my underwear for summer camp, so I was able to prove my identity.

What can people look forward to from City Winery into 2018? We are considering expanding the City Vineyard brand. As far as City Winery, we are looking to the following cities for potential expansion in 2018: Toronto, Detroit, Denver and London.

PHOTO: © CITY WINERY

Name: Michael Dorf Title: Founder, CEO Company, city: City Winery; New York City, N.Y. Number of employees: 750, with plans to have 1,000 by the end of 2017 Recent project: We’re opening City Winery locations in Boston and Washington, D.C., this year, with plans to announce three more openings in 2018.

First job: I’ve never worked for anyone else; I’ve always created my own money-making opportunities. I started a lawn mowing business, collected beer cans … many different jobs before I opened the Knitting Factory in 1987 in New York City.

Little-known fact about you: I’m a golfer, which doesn’t necessarily fit in the avant-garde club world I’ve come up in.

Where can travelers find City Winery locations, and what makes each location unique?

City Winery is in New York, Chicago, Nashville, Atlanta and, now, Boston, with D.C. coming soon. Nothing is cookie-cutter in terms of each location’s individual aesthetic and offerings, but you can expect the same fundamental cultural, food and dining experience at each location. We also offer City Vineyard in New York as an outlet for great wine and good views in the city. There’s an interaction with winemaking at each location.

technology

FANCIFUL FUN Enjoy the features and functions of cool new tech.

BY AKHIL KALEPU

BMW 6 SERIES GRAN TURISMO

PHOTOS: © BMW, © XBOX, © PELOTON, © PRYKHODOV | DREAMSTIME.COM

The Gran Turismo isn’t for everyone, depending on how you felt about the 5 series wagon. While the former model wasn’t well-received, BMW is betting its new coupe-crossover will turn heads, though some are wishing the company would return to its classic line of twodoors. The new Gran Turismo features an 8-speed automatic transmission, an xDrive all-wheel-drive system, 335 horsepower and a 0–60 mph time of 5.1 seconds. Add 65 cubic feet of storage space, and you have one formidable crosstour vehicle. $69,700. bmw.com

XBOX ONE X

PELOTON BIKE

YOUTUBE TV

Microsoft updates its video console with the new, inexplicably named Xbox One X. The machine is designed to take advantage of advancements in home theater technology. Although 4K displays are now affordable enough for the average gamer to purchase, for those still on 1080p, the new Xbox includes a super-sampling feature to improve graphics on old displays as well.

Dolby Atmos is available for a limited number of titles, allowing players to hear virtual surround sound on their headphones and speaker setup. Microsoft reports the new console will be released Nov. 7. $499. xbox.com/en-us/xbox-one-x

While the price tag might turn you off, Peloton might be the one piece of exercise equipment you actually use. You’ve seen indoor cycling bikes before, and this one doesn’t do anything particularly special, but that’s because its true value is in the subscription service. Peloton aims to hook bikers with its classes, available both live and on demand. These cycling sessions are broadcast live from Peloton’s New York studio with a trained instructor and live feedback on your workout metrics. Classes are available throughout the day at a variety of skill levels, with attendance reaching a few hundred, sometimes a thousand, in a session. $1,995 plus $35/month subscription. pelotoncycle.com

Live TV is now available for streaming on YouTube, bringing joy to thousands of news junkies and sports enthusiasts trying to catch a game while overseas and looking to cut cords back home. The app is perfect for single users and groups of people like families and roommates since you can host up to six accounts, three of which can be used simultaneously. Better yet, you get the same features typically offered on cable, like on-demand programming and DVR, plus it’s on a much smoother interface than your set-top box. $35/month. youtube.com/welcome

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wine & spirits

AFFORDABLE FINDS

IN A WINE REGION FAMOUS FOR its expensive red wines and large enough to warrant 60 area appellations, the challenge of finding good wines at reasonable prices may loom as overwhelming. But Bordeaux, one of the world’s most highly regarded wine regions — whose top-rated wines often sell for hundreds and, when they are also well-aged and from a highly rated vintage, may cost thousands — also produces a remarkable number of great and affordable finds.

Among those I’ve recently tasted and highly recommend is Les Hauts de la Gaffelière 2014 ($22), a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux’s St.-Émilion appellation. A flavorful, lively, full-bodied wine with a burst of red fruit flavors, it can easily pass for a wine two or three times its price.

Château Saint André Corbin hails from St. Georges-St.-Émilion. Its 2014 ($21) combines 75 percent Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce a medium-bodied, savory, firm wine with silky tannins. And its long, tasty finish can best be described as absolutely delicious.

You’ll find Château Cambon la Pelouse 2012 ($23) savory and spicy with intense color and a nose reminiscent of ripe red fruits with a pleasant whiff of vanilla.

La Caravelle Listrac 2012 ($24) blends 60 percent Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 percent Petit Verdot. It is vibrant on the palate, robust and toasty with a faint aura of violets in the background.

For a special dinner when you may want to spend more but still not a fortune on the wine you serve, consider Château Olivier 2012 ($40), a blend of 60 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest Merlot from the Pessac-Léognan appellation. A bright and aromatic wine, medium-bodied, round and well-balanced, it presents a silky texture and a bouquet of ripe red fruits.

The 5-year-old Château Phélan Ségur 2012 ($45) from the St.-Estèphe appellation of Bordeaux still has a teasing touch of youth about it. Both fullbodied and full-flavored, it is well-balanced with a hint of figs and currants in its aroma.

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BY EUNICE FRIED

n oduces a r p x u a e Bord 9 million 6 7 e g a r ave year. h c a e e n i fw bottles o

PHOTOS: © BERTRAND RAVACHE, © GERARD UFERAS, © CHÂTEAU PHÉLAN SÉGUR

Discover delicious Bordeaux at reasonable prices.

Š2017 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Westin and its logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc. or its affiliates.

No matter what obstacles travel puts between you and your well-being, our signature wellness programs are thoughtfully designed to help you soar above it all. Stay well at Westin Hotels & Resorts, a place where together we can rise.

spoils

MAN OF STYLE Invest in impeccable fall accessories to boost your image. BY PATRICK T. COOPER AND TERRY A. SPRUNGER A MAN’S WARDROBE SHOULD BE REGAL, refined and aggressively polished. Above all, his accessories should reflect sophistication. Does your look embody these qualities and characteristics? If not, here are a few tools to sharpen your image. This season is your time to take center stage. We aren’t saying you have to strut like a supermodel; however, with the proper “manccesories,” you can be confident in your fall fashion execution.

THOMAS MASON Let’s tie this up. Close the deal by allowing your tie to be your visual aid. Lead the pack with a smart tie by Thomas Mason. Your peers and clients will be mesmerized and focused so heavily on the exquisitely detailed blends of silk and wool that closing the contracts will become an afterthought. Signatures will stroke the dotted lines, sending you skipping directly to cocktails for a celebratory drink.

Should you spill a beverage during the fanfare, Thomas Mason has the perfect pocket square to dab. Available at Todd Snyder New York. From $20.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Perfect timing! When the inside is as beautiful as the outside, that’s a work of art. Onlookers will marvel at your wrist when you show up with the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton this fall. This timepiece speaks volumes in silence. Attention to detail is evident in an open-worked body and self-winding mechanical in-house movements to account for your busy day down to the small seconds. From $60,700.

toddsnyder.com

girard-perregaux.com

cufflinks.com

BALDININI Travel light and travel far this fall. Make your airport dash simple with Baldinini. Drop these sleek options in your luggage for versatility in day-to-night transitions. The Baldinini ankle boot maximizes functionality and pairs easily with jeans and suits. Be a hip executive or opt for the quilted ankle sneaker to conquer the urban jungle hike. Either way, bet on black. The shoes accommodate your feet in style and ground you for any cultural explorations.

Available in Miami, New York and New Jersey. From $470. baldinini-shop.com

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PHOTOS: © GIRARD-PERREGAUX, © THOMAS MASON, © CUFFLINKS.COM © BALDININI

TATEOSSIAN - LONDON The accoutrement. Nothing attains perfection without the proper finishing touches. A French cuff shirt is a necessity, and the proper cuff link acts like fuel to an engine.

Before you get going, lock your shirt in place for your vigorous day.

Tateossian Compass Cufflinks will point you in the right direction at all times. From $225.

flinthat.com

mcphersoncellars.com

PHOTOS: © RYAN SHELBURNE, © VISIT LUBBOCK, © NATIVE EYEWEAR, © JOSEPHABBOUD

FLINT CUSTOM HATS Everything is bigger in Lubbock, Texas. Finding a millinery to customize a hat is like finding a needle in a haystack these days. Luckily, we’ve taken the hard work out of this equation by finding Jared at Flint Custom Hats. Welcome to the ultimate cowboy hat: The hand-creased blended beaver felt, bound edge and 1-inch bone grosgrain ribbon make a fashion statement. Spoil your crown with this brilliant topper. From $400.

MCPHERSON CELLARS It’s all in the personality. Kim McPherson is the precise reason to drop into this city winery. Let’s face it — wine never goes out of style and makes the perfect accessory. Run toward the red licorice, black cherry cola and bright balsamic strawberry flavors that make this varietal brilliant. McPherson Cellars is filled with cheer. Laughter will engulf your spirit, and the wine pairing will send you soaring. You work hard, so you should play even harder. Your residence now has a new favorite red. From $20.

NATIVE EYEWEAR The Patroller by Native Eyewear represents the ultimate in cool. Reduce the glare and enjoy more of the sunshine with these mirrored lenses. Besides, didn’t every boy want to be like officers Jon and Poncherello from CHiPS? Now you have the power to be the authority. From $179. nativeyewear.com

JOSEPH ABBOUD American designer Joseph Abboud made our jaws drop this season. The runway looks were pure fashion inspiration. Look 43 is how you should dance through life. Every man hungers for this exquisite style! We will let the picture speak 1,000 words and bow down in a moment of silence to Sir Joseph Abboud. Everyone deserves a cheat sheet, so here is yours: This entire runway look embodies style. The benchmark has been set. josephabboud.com

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spas

ONE HAPPY SPA Find tranquility at The Ritz-Carlton, Aruba Spa. BY KATIE SKRZEK

SOPHISTICATED SERENITY: Relaxation room

PHOTO: © THE RITZCARLTON, ARUBA SPA

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“ONE HAPPY ISLAND,” Aruba’s slogan, truly permeates throughout the entire island. Arubans are friendly, welcoming and, well, happy.

On my first trip to Aruba, I was lucky enough to stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Aruba, as part of its Perfect Ladies’ Retreat offer. The offer includes a stay in an executive suite, daily breakfast for two, $50 casino play, a discount at its boutique, a private skin consultation for two, a complimentary enhancement with each spa treatment, private casino clinic experience, an evening amenity, private limo transportation to and from the hotel with Champagne and two add-on activities to customize your stay. It was an incredible way to experience the property.

Located on Palm Beach, the property features 320 rooms and suites, all with private balconies and ocean views. There are four dining outlets on site as well as room service. Solanio serves as a breakfast spot in the mornings and at dinner transforms into a fine-dining Italian restaurant. BLT Steak is a modern take on an American steakhouse, serving steak and seafood and utilizing the seasonal ingredients of Aruba. Madero Latin Grill is the property’s

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poolside restaurant, serving light lunch fare and cocktails. Divi Bar & Lounge, the lobby bar, stays open all day for light snacks and sushi in the evenings.

Guests can take advantage of the 24-hour casino, two pools and, of course, the beach. Non-motorized water activities, including paddle boarding, are complimentary. While the property offers numerous on-site activities, the concierge can arrange for off-site excursions around the island as well.

I had plenty of time to take in the property during my stay, though I was most excited to experience the spa.

On the day of my treatment, I visited the fitness center for a quick workout. In addition to a variety of cardio equipment, free weights and weight machines, the fitness center offers daily fitness classes. I then made my way to the beach to enjoy some cabana time. I enjoyed a light lunch of ceviche from Madero in the cabana ahead of my 2 p.m. appointment.

The spa is tucked away on the ground floor of the property.

I arrived for my appointment early, as I wanted to utilize the

facilities. After checking in, the attendant gave me a tour. The 15,000-square-foot spa features 13 treatment rooms. The women’s and men’s facilities are entirely separate. On the women’s side, there are showers, a locker room, relaxation room, steam room, whirlpool and sauna. These are open to all hotel guests for complimentary use.

The spa offers a variety of options including massages, facials, body treatments, nail services, a salon and other signature offerings.

Special services for men and pregnant women are also available.

I started with a quick dip in the whirlpool. Feeling refreshed, I made my way into the steam room. After only a few minutes, I felt the benefits. I saved the sauna for after my treatment.

After changing into my robe, I made my way to the relaxation room. The lounge chairs were easily the most comfortable I’ve ever experienced at any spa. The plush blankets and cozy robes weren’t too bad, either. I sipped some watermelon-infused water and enjoyed the view of the blue sky and swaying palm trees. I was so deeply relaxed ahead of my appointment, I almost didn’t want to leave the relaxation room!

My therapist escorted me to my treatment room. I received a sneak preview of a new treatment: Misterio di Aloe. This consisted of a 50-minute massage employing natural aloe

products followed by a 25-minute foot reflexology and aloe facial application.

My therapist, Robyn, was fantastic. She applied the ideal amount of pressure and employed incredibly smooth, continuous movements. She gave special attention to my back, relieving tension from my long day of travel. I had never experienced foot reflexology before, and I expected it to feel similar to a pedicure.

I was wrong. Robyn applied firm pressure to specific points on my feet, corresponding to the various glands and organs of my body. The movements put me almost in a trance. I only noticed as I jolted awake while she massaged my right foot. I immediately eased back into a state of blissful relaxation, where I stayed through the remainder of the experience. The calming aloe products had a subtle, refreshing aroma and left my skin and face feeling dewy and soft.

Robyn met me outside the room with a glass of water and a small strawberry smoothie. She directed me back to the relaxation room where I enjoyed the beverages and reflected on my experience.

Before leaving, I stopped at the sauna. Not wanting my experience to end, I lingered longer than planned. My experience at The Ritz-Carlton, Aruba Spa left me feeling, in a word, happy.

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TIME OUT:

Treatment room PHOTO: © THE RITZ-CARLTON, ARUBA SPA

The Ritz-Carlton, Aruba Spa L.G. Smith Blvd. 107 Palm Beach, Aruba tel 297 527 2222 ritzcarlton.com

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wealth

YOUR FINANCIAL ROADMAP With careful planning, you can arrive at your fiscal destination.

TAKE INVENTORY Before taking to the open skies, it’s time to take inventory.

Assessing your financial position involves gathering all of your assets and liabilities. Now you can simply compute your net worth.

Net Worth = Total Assets – Total Liabilities MAP OUT A PATH You know where you want to go and have a basic understanding of your net worth. Now: Create a spending plan (budget) that fits your lifestyle by distinguishing between your essential and discretionary expenses.

If you are spending more than you’re earning, debt management will be key. Start by paying off the debt with the highest interest rate and the lowest balance first.

If you have a positive cash flow, maintain a balance between debt payments and savings. Make sure you are getting the most out of your money. Is the interest rate on your debt higher than the potential returns on investments?

Maximize your savings. First establish an emergency fund, then max out retirement savings (through your employer or IRA). Still have discretionary savings? Consider a taxable investment account.

Setting your destination Taking inventory Mapping out a path Rerouting Keeping your long-term destination in mind.

SET YOUR DESTINATION Building realistic goals is arguably the most fundamental part of the process. Regardless of whether you are just starting out or are closer to retirement, it is essential to have an idea of where you want to be and the kind of lifestyle you want to live.

Write down your goals (if in a partnership, with your significant other); prioritize and create small milestones along the way.

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KEEP YOUR DESTINATION IN MIND The trip isn’t always a smooth one. Maintaining a consistent strategy for the long term will help you ride out the waves of turbulence.

Assess and maximize your savings strategy. Review and rebalance investments.

Review your financial goals on an annual basis (or as circumstances change).

Consistency is key. Don’t become victim to the tourist trap.

For every pit stop you make, the less time you’ll have to enjoy your destination.

Understanding the basics is a good first step to formulating a successful financial strategy. However, a professional financial planner can act as a guide and resource for you along the way.

PHOTO: © ETI SWINFORD | DREAMSTIME.COM

YOU’RE PLANNING AN INTERNATIONAL TRIP, except this journey leads toward your financial future. You must ask yourself: Where am I now? Where do I want to be? How am I going to map out my path? Will I take advice from peers, blogs or professionals? A successful financial future begins with creating a plan and requires

REROUTE While cruising life’s highway, it’s important to be mindful we will not always be able to take the fastest route to our destination.

You cannot plan for every event, but you can mitigate your personal risk exposure with an emergency fund and/or the appropriate insurance.

We understand your complex international life.

We live it every day.

Discover your financial freedom: www.rfawealth.com

Comprehensive Wealth Management Solutions Fee-Only | Independent | Registered Investment Advisor OFFICES IN: San Diego, CA

Irvine, CA

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Middle East

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Mastercard and Boingo Offer

Unlimited Wi-Fi Service is Now Live for Select Mastercard Cardholders on Four Continents

while flying, according to SITA’s 11th annual Passenger IT Trends Survey. And this trend is only going to grow, as the Cisco VNI reports that mobile data traffic will grow globally sevenfold from 2016 to 2021, a compound annual growth rate of 47 percent.

“We want to provide consumers with benefits and rewards that matter to them,” said Francis Hondal, executive vice president, Credit & Loyalty, Mastercard.

“That means making experiences they love, like travel, even better with a benefit that reflects their increasingly mobile lifestyles.

This partnership with Boingo will help Mastercard cardholders stay connected whenever they want, wherever they go.”

“We strive to meet the needs of our customers astercard and across all segments,” said Boingo Wireless are Vivek Agarwal, global head providing Mastercard of Cards and Loans at HSBC. “Our Premier cardholders unlimited access to more than customers travel internationally so we have one million premium Boingo Wi-Fi hotspots added access to Wi-Fi through over 1 million around the world. The Wi-Fi service is now hotspots globally. This complements a range available for select HSBC Mastercard cardof other travel benefits they can enjoy.” holders in Argentina, China, Hong Kong, “Wi-Fi is now an expectation for travelers, Malaysia, Singapore, United Arab Emirates making access to Boingo hotspots the and the U.K., as well as a number of other perfect membership benefit for Mastercard Mastercard cardholders worldwide, at no cardholders,” said Dawn additional cost. As a result, Callahan, chief marketing ofthese cardholders have the “Wi-Fi is now an expectation ficer, Boingo. “With Boingo’s potential to save hundreds for travelers, making access blazing fast Wi-Fi speeds, of dollars each year on roaming charges and to Boingo hotspots the perfect cardholders can seamlessly connect to mobile activities subscriptions when membership benefit for on the go, such as streaming accessing Wi-Fi hotspot their favorite TV show, worklocations in airports, Mastercard cardholders,” ing remotely or Periscoping hotels, restaurants and cafes, inflight and more.

DAWN CALLAHAN their vacation travelogue.”

To redeem the Wi-Fi CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER, BOINGO Travel—and connecbenefit, eligible tivity while traveling—is Mastercard cardholders simply need to an increasing priority among people follow a few easy steps. To learn more around the world. On the ground, more and get started, cardholders should visit than half of the wealthiest travelers say that mastercard.boingo.com. The Boingo Wi-Fi complimentary Wi-Fi is the top “desirable amenity” for them, per Resonance Consultan- benefit will roll out to other issuers and cardholders soon. cy. In the air, 63 percent of travelers access

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chefs

NATURAL INFLUENCE

A LOVE OF NATURE INSPIRES Chef Martin Göschel both in and out of the kitchen. When he’s not skiing, jogging or mountain biking, he’s bringing the character and natural surroundings of his region into his cuisine. As of May 1, 2017, that region is the surroundings of The Alpina Gstaad, where Göschel is responsible for the Michelin-starred Sommet and MEGU, Swiss Stübli, the Alpina Lounge, room service and banquet facilities.

Göschel began his career in 1993 at the two-star Michelin Restaurant Bareiss before becoming chef at Tigerpalast Varieté Theater in Frankfurt, where he spent nine years earning accolades and awards, including a Michelin star. He also served as executive chef at Hotel Paradies and Restaurant Alte Post before joining the team at Alpina Gstaad, where there’s a serious focus on cultivating local farmers, beef producers and artisanal cheesemakers while creating healthy, fresh and delicious offerings for guests.

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? Switzerland offers many exciting ingredients and products easy to integrate in my menus. The intense taste and excellent quality of the produce here is often due to the fact products grow more slowly at a certain high altitude. The wild herbs, the forest berries and, in autumn, the mushrooms all have an intense taste and smell. The cows, the lambs and the game are somewhat smaller than in other countries. You can taste the Alps in the tenderness of the meat.

While there is a strong culinary legacy in Switzerland, today’s chefs have to think outside the box to make interesting dishes. Take a dish like Indonesian tempeh, which we make with the grain from this region.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? The chefs who created their own brand: Alain Ducasse, Paul Bocuse, Joel Robuchon, Hans Haas and Daniel

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Humm. I admire them for consistently believing in their own interpretations with seriousness, intensity and a drive for perfection. The fact they are recognized as their own brands is a grand achievement.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? Over my career, I’ve met many different kitchen chefs. I was able to learn important things from each. I’ve also had the opportunity to eat in a great many wonderful restaurants and found both the modern and classical ones exciting and inspiring.

Through this combination of modern and classical, I found my own style. In addition to the award-winning chefs who I learned from, there were other supervising chefs who influenced me, like Robert Mangold, director, Tigerpalast Frankfurt, who has enormous expertise and a love of high-quality products but also never loses the sense of economic efficiency. The awareness of quality is still shaping me today.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? One of my favorites is San Sebastián in the Spanish Basque country.

There, the Michelin star density is high, and new techniques and methods always bubble out. Another is New York City, as there are so many different culinary concepts.

Every trend is celebrated, and you can immerse yourself in so many different kitchens and styles.

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? Tomorrow’s cuisine will be oriented more to the vegetarian and vegan.

The healthy food trend is upon us. In my opinion, it is a natural, balanced and healthy diet for the body. It is clear sourcing local is more and more important.

THE ALPINA GSTAAD Alpinastrasse 23 3780 Gstaad, Switzerland tel 41 33 888 9888 thealpinagstaad.ch

PHOTOS: © RAPHAEL FAUX/GSTAADPHOTOGRAPHY, © JEROME MORIN, © URS HOMBERGER

The Alpina Gstaad’s Executive Chef Martin Göshel incorporates regional products into healthy, inspired menus. BY KIMBERLY KROL

cruising

ONE WORLD, ONE CRUISE Circumnavigate the globe for the voyage of a lifetime. BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

BIG SPLASH:

ms Amsterdam (left), and Queen Victoria (right) PHOTOS: © HOLLAND AMERICA LINE, © CUNARD LINE

IF YOU’VE EVER REACHED the end of a wonderful cruise and wished it could stretch on forever, then a complete circumnavigation of the globe is your dream ticket. You’ll need considerable resources ($35,000–255,000 per guest, depending on stateroom) and ample time (four months, minimum), but for those who relish cruising, an around-the-world voyage is the ultimate splurge.

Around-the-world cruises usually depart in January, and despite their exhaustive itineraries, they are in exceptionally high demand. Holland America Line’s annual 113-day Grand World Voyage on the ms Amsterdam, for example, which starts its roundtrip from Fort Lauderdale Jan. 4, 2018, sold out more than six months ago.

It’s best, therefore, to plan on a circumnavigation in 2019.

The obvious choice is Cunard Line, which originated these long voyages nearly a century ago. Two of Cunard’s modern ocean liners, each carrying slightly more than 2,000 pampered passengers, continue the tradition to this day. The Queen Victoria undertakes a 107-night, Southampton-to-Southampton roundtrip Jan. 10–April 27, 2019, with a westward sailing that incorporates an Atlantic crossing and a Panama Canal transit on its way to ports in Australia, Indonesia, China and Africa.

Not to be outdone, Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 strikes a contrary course, sailing eastward on its round-the-world roundtrip from New York City (108 nights, Jan. 3–April 21, 2019) as well as from Southampton, England (94 nights, Jan. 10–April 14, 2019). The voyages will focus on exotic ports of the Far East.

Oceania Cruises offers another 2019 circumnavigation, a

Miami-to-Miami roundtrip encompassing 177 days (Jan. 14–July 11, 2019).

Oceania’s itinerary is worthy of the nearly six months at sea, with calls in Cuba, Bermuda, Panama, Australia, Polynesia, China, Egypt, Israel, France, Ireland and Canada. Maritime merrymakers can begin this once-in-a-lifetime around-the-world cruise in either New York or Los Angeles on the 684-passenger Insignia.

Complete circumnavigations like those Cunard and Oceania offer are becoming rare, as extended but not fully complete world voyages gain momentum. Silversea Cruises’ all-inclusive world cruise in 2019 (Jan. 6–May 19) takes 132 days to visit 52 ports in 31 countries. It sets off from San Francisco and circles the Earth, going as far as London, although the fare includes business-class air travel to complete the circumnavigation. Well-traveled authors Paul Theroux and Pico Iyer will mesmerize passengers aboard the 388-passenger Silver Whisper on this long voyage. Crystal Cruises and Regent Seven Seas Cruises will launch similarly luxurious world cruises in January 2019, both from Los Angeles, but neither is a complete around-the-world experience. Crystal ventures as far as Monte Carlo in 85 days, and Regent winds up after 131 days in New York City.

Circumnavigations do make for a long vacation at sea, but with a ship and itinerary conforming to your travel dreams, a complete global cruise is the ultimate way to travel the entire world in a single splash.

se h crui A pos ost the m s i r e lin ay free w y r r wo ed devis ever ke it to ma orld the w d n u , aro bound e l g n i in a s thout all wi port d air e t a e rep and visits tel ing ho chang . rooms

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feature

Spur of the Moment Thanks to mobile booking apps, last-minute travel is on the rise. BY LOIS FRIEDLAND WHAT A DEAL: expedia.com

PHOTO: © EXPEDIA

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“I USUALLY BOOK A HOTEL WHEN I LAND. You never know what’s going to happen. I could change a flight, so when I land I usually use Priceline,” says Dan Herman, IT practice senior advisor, The Chartis Group. “I look at the area where I want to stay and look at the

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star level, then grab one and go.” His approach defines the cutting edge of this style of travel, but lots of business and leisure travelers now choose to make reservations close to the time they plan to leave. The definition of last-minute travel varies, with some travelers saying it’s the day or a few days before, while others consider it up to 10 days or more in advance.

“Overall, we see that last-minute travel is becoming the norm. Half of U.S. domestic hotel bookings are now made within three days of arrival, and half of E.U. bookings are within seven days of arrival, according to Sojern,” reports Jared Simon, COO and cofounder, HotelTonight. “With millennial business travelers surpassing their GenX counterparts as the top business travelers, business travel is also shifting and becoming more last-minute.”

Many of today’s travelers routinely book flights, hotels and even travel packages on their mobile phones or tablets. Websites and apps of companies such as Priceline, Expedia, TravelZoo, Hotels.com, CheapOAir, Hopper, Airbnb and HotelTonight make booking easy. Just a few clicks and you have a reservation. Waiting until just before leaving town may result in great discounts.

A survey of travel companies with mobile apps and websites reveals some current trends. “In 2016 alone, Expedia saw over 2.9 million unique visitors to the United Statesspecific last-minute deals page. While there doesn’t seem to be one destination in particu-

BARGAIN HUNTING: Jetsetter home page, Wanderlist and Today's Deals PHOTOS: © JETSETTER

lar that is overwhelmingly the most popular, according to our data, beach destinations seem to rise to the top overall,” says Nisreene Atassi, public relations director, Expedia. “We’ve seen trends with last-minute bookings increase over the years, and we know travelers are becoming more and more accustomed to booking last minute from their mobile phones.”

CheapOair’s Thomas Spagnola, senior vice president, supplier relations, says, “So far in 2017, 31 percent — the largest percentage group of our passengers — booked their travel within 10 days of departure.” That statistic remained constant for the last few years. The company’s Last Minute Travel page focuses on flights that depart as early as the next day or as far out as six days, but the site also lists vacations, cruises and hotel rooms.

One advantage of last-minute travel is you may be able to find a great deal.

A hotel room is better filled at a discounted price than empty. Travel companies with partially filled trips may need more guests to make a profit and might offer deals close to departure dates. Keep the websites and mobile phone apps that focus on last-minute travel on your phone, tablet and computer so you can access them quickly. Don’t forget to include links to the last-minute deals page on major travel websites.

Flexibility is key. Dave Boehl, CEO, GoLastMinute.com, says, “It takes flexibility to save money on last-minute travel. You may have to be fairly open on your dates of travel and even your destination. Simply waiting until the last minute to book a trip won’t save you any money. You have to be prepared to do

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CHECK IN:

HotelTonight app PHOTOS: © HOTELTONIGHT

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some deal hunting with just a general idea of what you want in mind.”

Jetsetter.com’s Today’s Deals page lists deeply discounted properties. Kelsey Blodget, executive senior editor, says, “I think places like all-inclusive resorts are well-suited for last-minute trips versus trips that include a lot of complexity. You see people doing things that are within driving or train distance. You can’t be set on a specific thing unless you are willing to pay a lot.”

According to Blodget, many viewers start with the site’s Wanderlist section for ideas, then drill down to specific hotels or resorts.

HotelTonight’s Simon agrees a growing number of last-minute travelers are staying close to home. “Local travel continues to be on the rise — more than 40 percent o​f HotelTonight bookings are within 50–150 miles of the booker’s residence.”

Membership — and especially top-level status — at certain websites and airlines may give you access to better deals and perks. Atassi suggests signing up for an Expedia account because when you log in, you can access an extra 10 percent or more off on select hotels. Jack Herman, operations manager, imagery/ mapping collection, Uber, has gold status at Hotels.com. He spends about 25 nights a month in hotels in the United States and abroad and usually books within about 24 hours of a stay. “I

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use it mainly because the prices might be a dollar or two off from Expedia, but I buy 10 nights and get one free.” He adds that with his status, “I always get a real human being within the first three or four rings and even email support.”

Choose an airline that allows flexibility. Iris Solomon, vice president, HearthSong Wholesale, a catalog for children’s indoor and outdoor toys, says, “I go to Southwest first. If I can’t get a flight at the time I want or the right airport, I go to Expedia, Orbitz or Kayak and look for other airlines.” She normally books at least 10 days out. “Sometimes I’ll already have booked something and another meeting comes up, so I have to change things on the road. Southwest Airlines will do this any time without a change fee.”

Watch airline and hotel Twitter and Facebook pages and blogs for instant deals that might last just for a few hours and have limited availability. JetBlue has a special Twitter page — JetBlue Cheeps — dedicated to deals. Other Twitter pages, such as ExitFares, offer deals that disappear quickly. Sign up for alerts about fares from your airport at AirfareWatchdog.com.

Visit the websites for resorts or cities and look for deals pages.

Even resorts with high-end properties, such as Aspen, Snowmass and Vail, all in Colorado, offer last-minute deals. VailonSale.com has a Featured Offers section that lists available rooms and condos for

a few weeks out from the day you are checking.

During the holidays, the Winter X Games and many weekends, lodging occupancy in Colorado’s Aspen and Snowmass runs about 90 percent. Bill Tomcich, president, Stay Aspen Snowmass, says, “There are some holes between the peaks even during the winter where it’s relatively easy to find last-minute bookings at affordable rates.

For those who are flexible and willing to plan their stays midweek, bargains can be found for those planning last-minute visits, especially those who arrive on Sunday or Monday and depart on Thursday or Friday.”

Visit GoLastMinute.com, a website that alerts users to deals from top booking sites but is not itself a booking site. You must visit the site mentioned to book the deal. “We see a lot of last-minute bargains for Las Vegas trips. It’s a great last-minute destination, as you can find luxury accommodations for next to nothing,” says Boehl, the company’s CEO. “Orlando, too, is a bargain-hunter’s dream, at least in terms of low rates. We find many deeply discounted Caribbean cruises throughout the year, as well.”

Business travelers who need to book flights and lodging at the last minute, and leisure travelers who simply want to snag a fast few days away or get a great vacation deal, now have many outlets to find them.

Thanks to the growing trend of booking via mobile phones, reservation confirmations are just a few clicks away.

ON THE FLY:

GoLastMinute.com connects customers with great last-minute cruise deals, along with other vacations.

ly ecial p s e r , l on fo rave t m e m t inu e co st-m ecom a b l s. g s a in veler ne, h a o Book r h t p ile sure mob d lei n a on a ness busi h t o b

PHOTOS: © RAWPIXELIMAGES | DREAMSTIME.COM © GOLASTMINUTE.COM

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

This is a place where you will deeply encounter both culture and nature. This is a country that recently made international headlines for legislating the world’s largest marine-protected area. Here you can see why conservation matters. Where many are still living largely subsistence lifestyles, global issues like overfishing and climate change resonate for reasons that aren’t political.

Here, where the sun shines and the rain falls all year long, fresh and healthy tropical foods abound. The Cook Islands has something for every type of traveler — candlelit, seaside dinners for honeymooners; party buses and live music for night owls; snorkeling and bike tours for the kids — but our point of difference is authenticity.

AUTHENTICITY GUARANTEED

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here are places that impress you, and places that change you. The Cook Islands — a Polynesian paradise Global Traveler’s readers have named the Best Island (Nation) in the Pacific Rim — is the kind of place that changes you.

Here, you can slow down and devote yourself to the simple things that make life worthwhile — breathtaking natural beauty, adventure, fresh foods, fascinating stories, friendly people. Here, you can discover what it means to be grounded.

In destinations overrun by tourists, authentic experiences can be elusive, expensive, or both. In the Cook Islands, a place that straddles the present and the past, where we have WiFi but still no traffic lights,

authenticity is all around you.

Even on Rarotonga, the most commercial of our islands, nothing is staged – not the dancing and drumming nor the soul-stirring music at church on Sunday morning nor the fishing and planting and healing and nightlife. Meeting locals and learning about the Polynesian way of life isn’t something you have to buy through a tour company.

All of our islands are small and easy to navigate, whether by foot, bike, bus, or motor scooter, so you won’t be tempted to stay in your resort. You can buy fruit at roadside stalls, wave to people working on their plantations, attend traditional ceremonies, or sail on a celestially navigated canoe.

Thanks, readers of Global Traveler, for voting us Best Island in the Pacific Rim for the second year running. We invite you to join us in paradise. Let the experience change you.

IN SOME TRAVEL DESTINATIONS, LOCALS ARE WARY OF OUTSIDERS; IN THE COOK ISLANDS, HOSPITALITY IS A HERITAGE. LOCALS ARE PROUD TO SHARE THEIR STORIES, FOODS, AND CUSTOMS.

Thank You for Voting

THE COOK ISLANDS THE BEST ISLAND PACIFIC RIM TWO YEARS IN A ROW

Second Consecutive Year

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feature

Leisure Lifestyle Awards 2017 Global Traveler celebrates this year’s winners in high style.

BY NICOLE QUASTÉ | PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLAS BATES

AS THE SUN SET in California May 18, industry elite gathered at The Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills to celebrate the world’s best in leisure travel.

Now in its fifth year, the Global Traveler Leisure Lifestyle Awards pay tribute to standout destinations, airlines, cruise lines and hotels in the leisure and lifestyle travel categories.

For the second year in a row, we commemorated our award winners with a memorable affair at the Sofitel’s beautiful rooftop venue overlooking Beverly Hills. After receiving traditional Hawai’ian welcome leis, our guests enjoyed a pleasant evening of themed food, music and cocktails as well as a surprise: authentic Hawai’ian dance and ukulele performances by Liz Watts and Company.

Our Leisure Lifestyle winners weren’t the only ones to bring home an award that night. Global Traveler publisher

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and CEO Francis X. Gallagher was also presented with a Best Boss award by our editorial coordinator, Jenna Payesko.

The ideally located Sofitel Los Angeles sits at the corner of La Cienega and Beverly Boulevard, near Rodeo Drive and Sunset Boulevard. The French-inspired luxury hotel goes above and beyond for its guests and offers memorable, elegant events. Our 2017 Leisure Lifestyle Awards fête was no exception. Thank you to everyone who joined us and to the Sofitel for another fabulous event.

Global Traveler’s Leisure Lifestyle Awards highlight the best of the best in leisure travel and lifestyle. Nominations come from our elite Globility Board as well as our experienced, well-traveled magazine staff. Our esteemed Advisory Board selects the final winners.

WINNERS’ CIRCLE BEST HISTORICAL ATTRACTIONS Spain BEST BEACHES Cayman Islands BEST ADVENTURE TRAVEL DESTINATION Thailand BEST CARIBBEAN ISLAND U.S. Virgin Islands BEST ISLAND IN EUROPE Santoríni BEST ISLAND PACIFIC RIM Cook Islands BEST FAMILY CRUISE LINE Royal Caribbean International BEST LUXURY CRUISE LINE Silversea Cruises BEST CRUISE LINE SUITES Crystal Cruises Penthouse BEST ADVENTURE CRUISE LINE UnCruise Adventures BEST SMALL-SHIP CRUISE LINE Paul Gauguin Cruises BEST LARGE-SHIP CRUISE LINE Cunard Line BEST RIVER CRUISE LINE AmaWaterways BEST CRUISE LINE ENTERTAINMENT Royal Caribbean International BEST CRUISE LINE DINING Azamara Club Cruises

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE BEST CRUISE SHIP EXCURSIONS Princess Cruises BEST CRUISE LINE REWARDS PROGRAM Royal Caribbean International Crown & Anchor Society

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FAVORITE CRUISE SHIP ms Koningsdam Holland America Line BEST LUXURY LEISURE HOTEL GROUP IN THE WORLD Meliá Hotels International BEST HOTEL CHAIN RESORTS Westin Hotels & Resorts

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AWARD WINNERS

BEST PET-FRIENDLY HOTEL Kimpton Hotels & Resorts

1. Juergen Stuetz, vice president of sales, marketing and distribution, Meliá Hotels International 2. Christian Mani, marketing manager, Cook Islands Tourism

BEST FAMILY RESORT CHAIN IN THE WORLD Westin Hotels & Resorts

3. Diane Moore, president, Paul Gauguin Cruises 4. Jackie Barney, vice president of marketing, National Geographic Expeditions

BEST LEISURE AIRLINE Hawaiian Airlines

5. Jacqueline Drumheller, sustainability manager, Alaska Airlines

BEST PREMIUM-ECONOMY CLASS Lufthansa BEST PET-FRIENDLY AIRLINE United Airlines BEST LUXURY VEHICLE Mercedes-Benz

11.

7. Chantelle Foran, manager of shore excursions, Princess Cruises 8. Tim Jacox, president and COO, UnCruise Adventures

10. Grigoria Kamaterou, director, Greek National Tourism Organization 11. Scott Daniels, director, hotel operations, Azamara Club Cruises

FAVORITE LUXURY WATCH BRAND TAG Heuer

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9. Mary Beth Wressell, vice president, marketing communications, Holland America Line

FAVORITE LUXURY FASHION BRAND Ralph Lauren

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6. Steve Smotrys, director of sales, and Jamie Paiko, director of marketing, Cunard Line

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE

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FAVORITE LUXURY JEWELRY BRAND David Yurman

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FAVORITE ATHLEISURE BRAND Fabletics

SPECIAL ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS BEST CUSTOMIZED SERVICE The Peninsula Beverly Hills 9.

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AWARD WINNERS

BEST ENVIRONMENTAL ACHIEVEMENTS Alaska Airlines

1. Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler; Edie Rodriguez, Crystal Cruises

BEST OUTSTANDING INNOVATIONS United Airlines

2. Kittipong Prapatong, director, Tourism Authority of Thailand 3. Mark Dunkerley, CEO, Hawaiian Airlines 4. Brian Povinelli, senior vice president, global brand leader, Westin Hotels & Resorts

BEST SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY National Geographic Expeditions

5. Offer Nissenbaum, managing director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills 6. Roberto Castro, director of marketing, Silversea Cruises 7. Kate Gebo, vice president, office of the CEO, and Mark Krolick, vice president of marketing, United Airlines

10.

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8. Vivian Cervantes, key account manager, United Cargo 9. Martina Hupach, general manager of sales, Lufthansa 10. Neelia Ross, deputy commissioner, U.S. Virgin Islands 11. Kristin Karst, co-owner and executive vice president, and Rudi Schreiner, co-owner and president, AmaWaterways 12. Jesus Ignacio Perez Cidoncha, media manager, Tourist Office of Spain New York

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PARTY PICTURES 1. Katie Skrzek, vice president, digital director, Global Traveler; Nicole QuastÊ, assistant editor, Global Traveler; Carly Allen, associate publisher, executive vice president, Global Traveler; Jenna Payesko, editorial coordinator, Global Traveler; Grace Khanlian, West Coast intern, Global Traveler; Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, Global Traveler 2. Jackie Barney, vice president of marketing, National Geographic Expeditions; Diane Moore, president, Paul Gauguin Cruises 3. Offer Nissenbaum and guests browse Global Traveler’s Leisure Lifestyle Edition 4. Global Traveler editorial coordinator Jenna Payesko awards Francis X. Gallagher 5. Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, Global Traveler; Neelia Ross, deputy commissioner, U.S. Virgin Islands; Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, Global Traveler

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6. The Cook Islands team show off their well-deserved award 7. Liz Watts and Company singer 8. Global Traveler logo projected in the Sofitel pool 9. Liz Watts and Company dancers

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Thank you for naming us the “Best River Cruise Line” TAKE YOUR DISCOVERY OF EUROPE TO ANOTHER LEVEL. Let AmaWaterways introduce you to a world where dramatic sights are met with innovative and luxurious ships — your beautiful home away from home. Savor our award-winning, chef-prepared cuisine with the freshest local ingredients. Enjoy included shore excursions, guided hiking and biking tours and exciting new Special Interest Tours — bold adventures as active as you choose to be.

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a river cruising experience like no other For more information, contact your Travel Agent or call (888) 626-0993 | www.AmaWaterways.com Terms & Conditions: Promotional rates are valid on select 2017 and 2018 sailings only, based on double occupancy. Promotions are valid for new bookings and may not be applicable toward Group bookings. Offers are not combinable with any other promotions/discounts, limited to availability, capacity controlled and subject to change or termination without notice. Other restrictions apply. Registration as a seller of travel does not constitute approval by the State of California. CST#2065452-40

mice | ADELAIDE

Undiscovered Gem Adelaide boasts superb hotels, venues and music in a Mediterranean climate. BY RON BERNTHAL

NEW AND IMPROVED:

Adelaide Festival Centre (left), Hall H at Adelaide Convention Centre (middle top), Western Plaza of the Adelaide Riverbank revitalization (middle bottom), and Adelaide Convention Centre (right) PHOTOS: © ADELAIDE FESTIVAL CENTRE, © ADELAIDE CONVENTION BUREAU, © RENEWAL SA, © ADELAIDE CONVENTION BUREAU

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FOR MICE PLANNERS WITH a soft spot for gin, it is now official: South Australia makes the world’s best gin. Called 78 Degrees and created in Nairne, a small township 30 minutes east of Adelaide, the Adelaide Hills Distillery took the top prize at the 2017 American Distilling Institute Awards, held in Baltimore earlier this year.

“It doesn’t get much bigger than this,” said Sacha La Forgia, distillery founder. “There were thousands of entries, and we were awarded double gold in our class, best in category and best international gin. We beat out every other competitor.”

Although few MICE planners choose destinations based solely on the quality of the local gin, the award is symbolic of South Australia’s rapid growth in Australia’s hospitality industry. New hotels, restaurants and bars are sprouting throughout Adelaide, South Australia’s capital city of 1.3 million residents. Urban revitalization projects reflect exciting architectural elements among the city’s performing arts venues, museums and downtown residential and office buildings.

The State of South Australia, 380,000 square miles in size (Texas and Arizona combined), is committed to spending $74 billion on infrastructure, most evident in Adelaide, where construction crews transform the city’s major streets and the River Torrens into scenic, urban landscapes.

Even more important: the South Australian government’s $2 billion investment in Adelaide Riverbank, a downtown convention, entertainment and research precinct dedicated to business meetings and conventions, medical research, educational facilities, the arts and sports.

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Riverbank projects include the $148 million, futuristic-looking South Australian Health and Medical Research Institute; new landscaping at the Adelaide Festival Centre and Festival Plaza; a $220 million expansion proposal for the Adelaide Casino; and a just-completed phase one of the $260 million Adelaide Convention Centre expansion.

Adelaide attracts medical conferences partly because the Adelaide Convention Bureau forged a close relationship with SAHMRI, bringing in medical meetings, conferences and conventions to this sun-splashed city on Australia’s south coast. Adelaide also appeals to MICE groups involved in minerals and energy, bioscience, defense, aerospace, education, advanced manufacturing and aquaculture.

With the Adelaide Convention Centre, nearby medical research centers and a university campus all within close proximity, Adelaide’s fully integrated Riverbank Precinct now offers exceptional benefits for convention visitors. Within a short walk are hotels, restaurants and attractions, with a free tram to move visitors around.

It also doesn’t hurt that Adelaide ranks as one of the most affordable state capitals in Australia, with a wonderful Mediterranean climate and claims that the most popular city venues are never more than 20 minutes away from each other.

The Adelaide Convention Centre completed new construction this summer and now spans a large section of the southern side of the River Torrens. More than 90 feet above the riverbank, the new East Building reaches over the boardwalk to provide expansive views toward Adelaide Oval and other iconic structures. With the world’s largest rotating seating platform, featuring two 54-foot revolving drums holding up to 320 people each, the new East Building can be reconfigured for events, conferences and concerts within minutes.

The first major conference at the expanded ACC will be the 68th International Astronautical Congress, meeting this month. The world’s largest annual gathering of space professionals expects to attract more

than 3,000 astronauts, heads of space agencies, engineers, scientists, innovators, legal and policy specialists and students.

“New technologies are the hallmark of the expansion which sets a new benchmark in convention center design and functionality,” said Alec Gilbert, chief executive, Adelaide Convention Centre. “The delegate experience at the ACC is also more personal than many other convention centers, and being part of a relatively compact and highly accessible city makes the delegate experience more relaxed and enjoyable.”

The redeveloped Adelaide Oval, a sports and entertainment venue, also makes its mark as a function venue. It hosted its first event in 2014 for the Australian and New Zealand Sports Law Association conference and remains a sought-after site for sports and MICE events. The new stadium includes a leading-edge audiovisual system, hospitality suites, open boxes, bars, terraces and food courts.

SKYCITY Adelaide Casino opened in 1985 within the heritage-listed, 1920s-era Adelaide Railway Station. A proposed expansion awaits final approval. The $260 million building will sit next to the original rail station, connected by a glass atrium, and will include signature restaurants, an 80-room deluxe hotel and world-class gaming and entertainment facilities. The building will feature layered, wav-linear glass presenting a shimmering, luminous quality and will surely attract MICE groups.

Business tourism has become an important aspect of South Australia’s revenue stream. In the last financial year, the Adelaide Convention Bureau won business worth $157 million of economic benefit for the state, boasting more than 50,000 visiting delegates and 220,900 bed nights for the city.

Major MICE hotel venues in Adelaide’s Central Business District include the Hilton Adelaide (374 guestrooms/17

meeting rooms); the InterContinental (367/11); the Stamford Plaza (335/11); and the beachfront Stamford Grand (220/12), 20 minutes from the CBD with views of the ocean, city and Adelaide Hills.

Adelaide’s capacity for hotel accommodations continues to grow. In 2018 the 5-star, 245-suite Sofitel Hotel will open downtown, as will the 245-room Holiday Inn Express, a 240room Lester Hotel and a 200-room Aloft Adelaide. Starwood also plans a Sheraton hotel in North Adelaide in 2019.

The city is known for its festivals (the Adelaide Festival and Fringe Festival are well-known throughout the country), and its gallery scene is worth incorporating into off-site events.

The Art Gallery of South Australia hosts an impressive selection of exhibitions, including the gallery’s collection of Rodin’s bronze sculptures, the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. The Jam Factory is perhaps Adelaide’s best-known art hub, a not-for-profit arts center with facilities in the CBD and nearby Barossa Valley. The venue focuses on ceramics, jewelry, glass and furniture and makes studios available to artists and for group visits.

With UNESCO designating Adelaide an official City of Music, planners should consider including music venues in their agendas. “The UNESCO recognition will help to bring the world of music to Adelaide and also help take Adelaide to the world,” said Douglas Gautier, CEO and artistic director, Adelaide Festival Centre. “Adelaide is a great place for making and enjoying music. The UNESCO recognition will help grow our reputation as one of the world’s significant creative cities. Our city is an exciting and innovative community for musicians and music lovers, and we look forward to building on that momentum with our participation and utilization of international linkages.”

UNIQUE VENUES

Barossa Valley, a renowned wineproducing region 37 miles northeast of Adelaide, offers interesting offsite MICE venues, including Château Tanunda. This winery within a castle offering a ballroom for 470 in banquet style, a long room seating 80 at one table, plus outside terraces for cocktail events and its own professionally maintained cricket oval with a capacity of 1,500. chateautanunda.com With the Adelaide Hills offering a picturesque wine and culinary focus, beautiful hotel accommodations and interesting delegate experiences, it makes a popular daytrip or post-conference visit. The Louise in Barossa Valley offers a professional meeting venue for executive retreats and small incentive groups.

All 15 suites feature luxury amenities, private gated courtyards and vineyard views. Its Appellation restaurant is one of Australia’s finest dining destinations. Group events include private hosted wine tastings, vineyard tours, cooking classes and hot air balloon flights. thelouise.com.au

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friends & family | TUSCANY

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La Dolce Vita

Tuscany lies at the center of Italy, with Pisa, Florence and Siena — a trio of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations — forming a triangle at its heart. Wine routes wind among its vineyards and between its hill towns where you can savor the region’s most famous products: Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Medieval towers of hilltop towns dot rolling landscapes of vineyards and poppy-splashed meadows. You can imagine yourself in the 13th century as you enter San Gimignano, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, preserving 13 of its original 70 tall towers.

Each hill town has its own character and story: Volterra preserves a rich Etruscan and Roman history, Montepulciano’s wealthy noble families attracted top Renaissance artists and architects, and little Montalcino sits inside well-preserved 12th-century walls. In Arezzo you can see the works of several of the greatest Renaissance masters without the crowds of Florence or Siena.

But for all its iconic sights, Tuscany is a supremely satisfying place to just kick back and relax with friends or

e new GT app is Town to town, discover the art of living well in Tuscany.

BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS

IN THE HILLS:

San Gimignano on the hill (left), and view from the tower (right)

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WHEN TUSCANS LIFT A GLASS OF their beloved Brunello di Montalcino and say, “Salute” — “To your health” — they mean it.

And they offer a lifestyle to make it possible. For amid those postcardperfect Tuscan hill towns flow thermal springs where Etruscans and Romans soaked, and where medieval pilgrims rested their weary legs en route to Rome.

Today these hot springs are fitted with luxurious trappings the sybaritic Romans would have envied. Spa resorts serve as perfect bases for Tuscan holidays that can include walking, cycling and other active ways of seeing the region’s many attractions. Full-scale health and wellness centers cater to those in need of a longer retreat.

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en’s Swed s t s a l, org bo rmina e t Goteb r e ain of the t cont f s l e a g h r a n l tha more g ge. n i l d tonna han g n i p p y’s shi countr

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RIBERA DEL DUERO

destination one | GÖTEBORG

Green and Growing Göteborg retains its Swedish character as it transforms into a large urban center. BY RON BERNTHAL COFFEE BREAK: Café Kringlan serves up pastries and coffee for a traditional Swedish fika.

PHOTO: © RON BERNTHAL

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WITH A DIET LOW IN CARBS and high in the right kind of fats, Swedes are second among Nordic countries in terms of life expectancy, and Sweden itself rates as one of the healthiest countries in the world. It is also where, according to a European Commission survey, the largest number of residents exercise regularly.

Göteborg, a port city on Sweden’s southwest coast, may be geographically closer to Oslo and Copenhagen than Sweden’s capital city of Stockholm, but it is definitely a Swedish city. The city

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government is green and eco-friendly; office workers follow the traditional Swedish custom of the latemorning fika (coffee with cinnamon buns); and Volvo, headquartered in Göteborg since its founding 90 years ago, remains one of Sweden’s most admired companies.

The city is growing aggressively, expecting to have 700,000 residents by the year 2035. That’s 150,000 more people than at present, and thus Göteborg embarked on one of the most ambitious urban real estate projects in Europe, with plans to enlarge its city center to twice its size. Using public and private funds, the city

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens may enter Sweden for up to 90 days for tourist or business purposes without a visa. U.S. passports should be valid for at least six months beyond the planned period of stay.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Swedish, but English is widely spoken.

LODGING

AVALON HOTEL With 101 beautifully designed rooms, free WiFi and an included breakfast buffet, this feng shui-certified property is perfect for leisure or business guests. Check out the rooftop pool with its thousands of mosaic tiles.

Kungstorget 9 $$$

WATER VIEWS: Kladesholmen coastline in West Sweden (top), and canal boat touring in downtown Göteborg (bottom) PHOTOS: © RON BERNTHAL

is revitalizing entire neighborhoods on both sides of the Göta River, adding thousands of new residential units, encouraging innovative startups and new academic facilities, expanding green spaces and electric public transport modes, and reinventing former riverside shipbuilding areas into unique and vibrant public spaces.

Known as Älvstaden, or RiverCity Göteborg, the multiyear project is needed to accommodate the rapidly growing population in the city and surrounding suburbs and to improve the environment for residents and visitors far into the future. The city is also expanding its use of efficient electric buses and adding ferry routes that connect neighborhoods along the river to each other and to downtown districts. In addition, Volvo is recruiting local residents to test-drive

RADISSON BLU RIVERSIDE On the north bank of the river, next to a conference center and corporate offices, the property is a 10-minute ferry ride to city center. Amenities include free WiFi, breakfast, a fitness/wellness center and garage parking.

Lindholmspiren 4 $$$ SANKT JӦRGEN PARK HOTEL This sport and business hotel in a country setting 15 minutes from downtown offers 82 guestrooms, suites and junior suites; conference facilities; a spa and fitness center; an 18-hole golf course; four dining venues; free WiFi; and breakfast.

Knipplekullen 8-10 $$$$

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SEA BOUNTY: Kladesholmen Harbor in West Sweden (top), and fresh mussels at Musselbaren in Lyckorna (bottom) PHOTOS: © JOANNA TRICORACHE, © RON BERNTHAL

t ’s larges n e d e w ts S rg boas half o b e t o G re than o m g n i l nd e. minal, ha r e t g tonnag r n e i n p i p a i t h n s co ountry’s of the c 56

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its XC90 electric models on selected city streets as part of its autonomous drive technologies research study. Volvo also recently announced it will manufacture all-electric and hybrid vehicles starting in 2019. As a result, no car with a 100 percent thermal engine will be released from its plants.

“Göteborg has a strong automotive industry and is the Nordic region’s logistics hub. One benefit is that we get involved early in testing next-generation technology. That’s exciting, and we learn more together with our partners in ElectriCity than we would do alone. We take these lessons with us in our urban planning as Göteborg grows into an attractive large city,” said Stefan Eglinger, director, Urban Transport Administration, City of Göteborg. “Tomorrow’s quiet vehicles emitting no exhaust gases will make the city even more appealing for people to live in, work in and enjoy. I’m happy and proud that our cooperative venture has been so successful that we now want to go further in the next phase.” Göteborg’s ElectriCity is an exciting cooperative project bringing together industry, research and society in the development and testing of solutions for next-generation sustainable public transport.

Göteborg was founded in 1621 by King Gustavus Adolphus, and its early design was influenced by the Dutch, Germans and Scots, with Dutch engineers contracted to drain and build in the marshy areas chosen for the city, resulting in a town designed to resemble the Dutch cities of Amsterdam, Jakarta and the former New Amsterdam (Manhattan Island). In 2021 Göteborg turns 400 years old and will host many celebrations throughout the year.

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +2 Phone code: Country code: 46 City code: 31 Currency: Swedish krona Key industries: Automotive, banking/finance, environmental technology, education, tourism/ hospitality, information and communication technology, logistics, medical technology/health care and maritime industries

DINING

RESTAURANG GABRIEL Situated on the mezzanine level within a historic indoor fish market, Chef Johan Malm’s restaurant offers fresh lobsters, crabs, shrimp, salmon, oysters, herring and a special fisksoppa (fish soup). Lunch only; reservations required.

Feskekôrka $$$–$$$$$

CHECKING IN WITH JONAS THESSLUND Senior Manager, Volvo Factory Delivery Experience

What is the secret to Volvo’s success as one of Göteborg’s major corporations?

The company was founded in this city 90 years ago, and we are proud of our Swedishness, which is our culture and heritage, reflected in how we develop our cars, how we look upon people and what’s important to them. It’s important for the current owners of the company to keep it Swedish, because that is something unique. We are the only major car company from Sweden at the moment, and it is valuable to maintain that identity.

What is the Volvo Factory Delivery Experience?

Customers who choose to pick up their newly purchased Volvo at our Göteborg factory can enjoy their new car

while driving it around Sweden and other countries in Scandinavia or Europe and then have it shipped back to their dealer in the United States. Our delivery package includes two round-trip tickets to Göteborg as well as free VIP transfer service from the airport to our factory, with the first night complimentary in a deluxe hotel in Göteborg. We also offer two weeks of free auto insurance for the new automobile.

From Volvo’s perspective, has the Factory Delivery Experience been a successful program for visitors?

Yes, very much so. As leisure tourism to Scandinavia increases every year, we are seeing many couples and families decide to travel to Sweden and use their own new Volvo to see the country rather than renting a car.

In the last year we delivered 1,500 cars to American customers picking up their vehicle here in Göteborg, a big increase over the 1,000 vehicles we delivered last year to U.S. buyers. We work with Visit Sweden in designing itineraries that begin in Göteborg and continue into West Sweden and to other areas of the country, depending on what they are interested in seeing and the length of their trip.

SALT & SILL Even if you don’t stay at this floating hotel on the island of Tjörn, the restaurant is worth a visit. Outdoor/ indoor seats offer sea views, and the seafood and service are outstanding.

Reservations required.

471 51 Klädesholmen, Tjörn $$$$ SJÖMAGASINET Noted chef Ulf Wagner runs the kitchen at this Michelinstarred restaurant on the river near downtown.

Seasonal menu may include wild salmon, poached cod, deep-fried pork leg terrine or lobster salad with Parmesan dressing. Reservations required.

Adolf Edelsvärds gata 5 $$$$–$$$$$

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SENSORY DELIGHTS:

DIVERSIONS

Trams, buses and ferries enable visitors to travel around the entire city quite easily, and the Göteborg City Card offers free public transit, museum admissions and shopping vouchers. Visitors can purchase the card at Tourist Information centers. It is also possible to explore much of the city on foot or bicycle, wandering through leafy Kungsparken (King’s Park); the boutique-crammed, cobblestone streets of historic Haga; and along the narrow canals using the numerous bike paths throughout the city.

The museum known as Röda Sten (Rödasten Konsthall) occupies a beautifully restored industrial building located on the Göta River and features excellent modern art exhibitions and a waterside restaurant. Other museums include the Fine Arts Museum, Göteborg City Museum, The Radio Museum, Volvo Museum and many design and art galleries.

Göteborg is filled with hip cafés, eclectic shops and beautiful parks where locals sunbathe and picnic in summer and cross-country ski during winter. Start the day with an excellent coffee and pastry at da Matteo Cafe Bakeri, with several locations around the city, although the one in Magasinsgatan’s main square sits near interesting boutiques and lunchtime food trucks. The city offers a cutting-edge Nordic food scene including a half-dozen Michelin-starred restaurants; lots of fresh fish and seafood venues; and plenty of late-night bars along Tredje Långgatan in Haga, many packed with university students. Trendy rooftop bars offer sunset views; try the ones at the downtown Bellora and Scandic Rubinen hotels.

Visit the newly regenerated neighborhoods north of the river by taking the ferry to Lindholmen and biking or

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Kuggen building (top left), Michelin-starred restaurant Sjömagasinet’s buffet (top right), and Lådfabriken accommodations in Edshultshall (bottom) PHOTOS: © JOANNA TRICORACHE, © RON BERNTHAL

INFO TO GO walking along the urban trail that parallels the water.

The iconic red, round Kuggen (Swedish for “cogwheel”) building, built in 2011, is part of Chalmers University of Technology and a good place to begin a self-guided tour.

For a day or overnight trip from Göteborg, rent a car and drive an hour to the Bohuslän Coast, an archipelago of 8,000 islands, where the rocky coastline stretches up to the Norwegian border, offering pine forests, fjord-like lakes and picturesque villages like Skärhamn, with its Nordic Watercolor Museum, or Klädesholmen, where you can stay overnight at Salt & Sill. This floating hotel features guestrooms overlooking the sea and a lovely restaurant whose deck hovers over the water.

In Fiskebäckskil the chic Gullmarstrand Hotel offers deluxe rooms and a heated outdoor pool overlooking the islands and bays of Gullmarsfjorden. Dine on fresh blue mussels at The Mussel Bar in Lyckorna, Ljungskile, after harvesting them yourself during a pre-lunch mussel safari. Look for the eclectic, four-room seaside accommodation called Lådfabriken, a restored fish box factory with its colorful, beautifully designed interior and breathtaking sea views, located just outside the tiny coastal village of Edshultshall.

Göteborg’s Landvetter International Airport, approximately 17.5 miles from downtown (a 20- to 40-minute drive) is easily reached by car rental or Flygbusssarna Airport Coaches (about $12 one way; purchase tickets online at flygbussarna.se). Trains from Stockholm depart hourly to Göteborg Central Station (about 3.5 hours; from $28 one way). Ferry service is available from Frederikshavn, Denmark (about three hours; seasonal sailings $86–153 via Stena Line).

from vineyard to bottle at our

URBAN WINERY state-of-the-art concert facility restaurant + wine bar private event space WINE CLUB Wines delivered to your home or office twice a year

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HANDS-ON BLENDING We’ll guide you and your guests/team through a wineblending session

TAP WINE Large and unique selection only available at City Winery

stateside | DETROIT

Comeback City On the path to recovery, Detroit expands the visitor experience. BY KATHERINE RODEGHIER MOTOR CITY:

Downtown Detroit GM Headquarters PHOTO: © ANDREY BAYDA | DREAMSTIME.COM

new walk, a r e v i The R aved arks, p p f o , runs ribbon lic art b u p d an iver paths roit R t e D the along ssance Renai e h t f east o r.

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MORE THAN $11 BILLION in development projects continue to transform America’s largest major city to declare bankruptcy. New and rehabbed buildings in downtown Detroit are adding hotels, meeting spaces and dining and entertainment venues.

And the pace of revitalization shows no sign of slowing.

“If you swing a hammer in this town, you’re going to be busy for a while,” said Mark Denson, director of business development, Detroit Economic Growth Corp.

The nonprofit works with the city and other partners to foster development. Strong planning and the continuity of leadership — business, civic, philanthropic — “have bought into this way forward for Detroit,” he said. “We

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have all the major stakeholders rowing in the same direction.”

Cobo Center, the 17th-largest convention center in the United States, completed a nearly $300 million expansion last year, said Denson. “Cobo was designed to hold about 95 percent of all North American conferences and trade shows.”

A $627 million arena opens this fall connecting downtown with the Midtown neighborhood and business district. Little Caesars Arena, backed by Ilitch Holdings of the pizza chain, will seat more than 20,000 for Red Wings hockey and Detroit Pistons basketball as well as provide space for concerts and other entertainment. The 50block District Detroit development also will add a 350-room athlete hotel, residential units, shops, restaurants and a plaza rivaling Rockefeller Center in size with a below-ground community ice rink.

Dan Gilbert, founder, Quicken Loans, purchased more than 95 Detroit properties through his commercial real estate company.

Among them, the Albert Kahn-designed building once occupied

by Detroit’s daily newspapers has been re-imagined as an office building housing Quicken employees and the Michigan regional office of Molina Healthcare. A ground-up mixed-use development, 28Grand, brings the growing micro-loft trend to Detroit. The 218 furnished apartments, 85 for residents qualifying for low-income credits, are set to lease this year in a 13-story building in the heart

GREEN AND CLEAN:

The new Riverwalk winds through Milliken State Park and Harbor, a 31acre green oasis in downtown Detroit (above), and the QLINE light rail streetcar began running in May (left).

PHOTOS: © KATHERINE RODEGHIER, © JRVETTEMAN53 | DREAMSTIME.COM

SCENIC DRIVES

of downtown. Gilbert will capitalize on another trend, lifestyle brand hotels, with the construction of a 130-room boutique hotel associated with the Detroit-based watch and luxury goods company Shinola. The eight-story building, originally a hardware store, is scheduled to open next year as The Shinola Hotel and will connect to an activated alleyway with shops and restaurants.

More than 100 bars and restaurants opened in Detroit since its 2013 bankruptcy, averaging about one a week, and hotel occupancy has hit record levels.

At least five hotels are currently under construction, with more anticipated, said Denson, and businesses “from tech startups to Fortune 200 companies” are opening downtown, among them Ally Financial and Microsoft, which plans to relocate from the suburbs next year.

Workers wishing to move downtown might be put on waiting lists for condos and apartments.

Gilbert’s plans for development of the site of the former Hudson’s department store will alleviate some of the downtown housing shortage with 250 residential units.

It will be Michigan’s tallest building, rising 7 feet above Detroit’s Renaissance Center, headquarters of General Motors. Groundbreaking may begin at the end of the year. Gilbert envisions an architectural icon fitting for the only U.S. city designated a UNESCO City of Design. The residential tower will punctuate the skyline as it sits atop a nine-story podium. Plans call for these lower levels to contain meeting space, offices, tech and cultural space, retail and a public market.

Low-rise housing will take shape in five housing types in the City Modern development Gilbert plans in the Brush Park neighborhood between Midtown and downtown, not far from the Little Caesars Arena. In a blend of old and new, four Victorian mansions renovated as seven historic home units will be joined by modern apartments, townhomes, carriage homes and duplettes for a total

of 410 residences, 54 qualifying for low-income credits.

Pocket parks and ground-floor retail will create a walkable neighborhood that Denson likens to Washington, D.C.’s Georgetown.

The QLINE streetcar system began running in May, transporting residents and visitors alike between downtown and Midtown, where some of the city’s new restaurants and retailers — including the flagship Shinola store — opened. The 3.3 miles of rail along Woodward Avenue, the city’s main thoroughfare, provides better access not only to the new hockey and basketball arena but also to baseball in Comerica Park and football at Ford Field. It passes Fox Theatre, a 1920s landmark and part of the nation’s largest theater district outside Manhattan.

The seeds of downtown development were planted in the 1990s as Detroit prepared to host the 2006 Super Bowl, said Denson. Stalled during the recession, it’s made a comeback. “Detroit is on a positive trajectory” with lots of activity planned in the next five to seven years, he said.

“The goal is to be a better Detroit tomorrow than we are today, and I think we are making great strides.”

The nation’s largest cityowned island park lies in the Detroit River with views of Windsor, Ontario, on one side and the Detroit skyline on the other. Belle Isle, now leased to the state, was designed

by Frederick Law Olmsted and covers 982 acres, larger than Olmsted’s Central Park in New York City. Motorists enter by bridge and make stops at a carillon, fountain and all-marble lighthouse dating from the 1920s and 1930s.

Maritime history unfolds at a Great Lakes museum. Visitors encounter wildlife, fish and tropical plants at a nature zoo, aquarium and conservatory.

Golfers can hone their skills at a driving range.

About 20 miles northwest of downtown Detroit, Bloomfield Hills ranks among its wealthiest suburbs, with mansions tucked among rolling hills and winding roads.

Philanthropists founded Cranbrook here in 1904. The 319-acre campus comprises museums devoted to art and science, a house and gardens and a prep school. Visitors see the work of Eliel Saarinen, Albert Kahn and Carl Milles, among others. A few miles southwest, the small town of Franklin is a walk back in time.

Founded in 1825, its 19thcentury buildings include a cider mill, especially popular with fall visitors who come for apple cider and hot doughnuts.

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9–5 | LUXEMBOURG

Eclectic Luxembourg

television, but French (at least in the city) is the de facto language in social settings, while Luxembourgish, a linguistic mix of French and German, is spoken at home. English is taught in schools starting at age 14, and you’ll even hear a The city of contrasts captivates with old and new, local and fair bit of Spanish and Dutch (those are your tourists), so many Luxembourgers learn those languages, as well. international. BY JOE BAUR This international flair juxtaposes with a strong national identity that historically refused to be swallowed up by QUAINT AND THE FIRST THING TO IMPRESS any traveler to the City of Luxembourg is Germany and recently declined to make citizenship easier QUIET: the history, so much so that locals joke a 15th-century building is practically by lessening the Luxembourgish language requirement. It Grund, with a view modern. Indeed, this highly internationof a bridge over the may be a small country, but it is very Alzette River al city where foreign nationals account much its own country.

Walking the cobblestone streets of PHOTO: © REINHARDT | for nearly two-thirds of the population Business travelers visiting the DREAMSTIME.COM Grund after an evening rain feels has as much to offer a Europhile traveler convention center find they’re not as any other more-traveled destination attending just another large event practically Parisian, except you’ll be on the continent. space. Luxembourg does business at hard-pressed to spot the tourists.

Walking the cobblestone streets of the European Convention Center Grund after an evening rain feels pracLuxembourg in the Kirchberg neightically Parisian, except you’ll be hard-pressed to spot the tourists. Of course, borhood overlooking the historic city. The Meliá Luxemit doesn’t hurt that French is one of the country’s three national languages. bourg hotel sits right next to the convention center, making Luxembourgers start off learning to write German, and they watch German it an easy choice for visitors on business. Another option is

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Hotel Sofitel Luxembourg Europe, directly across the street. Otherwise, you’ll most likely look for lodging in the city center, but remember you’ll rely on public transport to get back and forth between town and the convention center — unless you don’t mind hiking uphill in a suit.

As throughout most of Europe, public transportation provides a great option for navigating around town. If you’re arriving at Gare de Luxembourg (the main train station), simply hop on the 195, 125/1 or 16 bus lines for just a handful of stops until you’re dropped off at Symphony Hall (bonus points if your convention overlaps with a show — bring your formal wear). From the airport, grab the 16 bus, which stops in Kirchberg before heading into the city center.

If you’re coming anytime soon, you’ll notice a bit of construction on Avenue John F. Kennedy on the northern end of the convention center. Luxembourg is bringing back tram lines after removing them decades ago. They’re scheduled to open in different stages, with the first part in Kirchberg slated to open at the end of 2017. The rest will come 2019–2021.

Now on to the important stuff: food and entertainment. Though the city is relatively small — with just about 100,000 residents — it is still a dense European city with plenty of fantastic options within walking distance of each other. Whether you’re looking for a night on the town at the end of your business trip or to share a nice meal with your colleagues, Luxembourg does not disappoint. That said, a few establishments stick out.

Breakfast here is, indeed, European, with hotels offering morning meals. The Meliá and the Sofitel follow suit.

A popular lunch spot will take you into the old town to Oberweis. Try the chicken vol-au-vent for a traditional, hardy Luxembourg meal (but do bring a second stomach).

Italian sensibilities are well-covered here, with both L’Osteria and Ristorante Essenza in the city center. Both of these smart, casual establishments work well for business dinners. Feel free to grab a bottle of Luxembourg white wine to go with the meal.

Nearby Clausen is a neighborhood generally seen as catering to the younger party crowd, but it’s also home to Restaurant Ukulele (a Thai foodie favorite among the locals) and Big Beer Company if you’re looking for a more casual business dinner.

If you’re staying up in Kirchberg and prefer something within walking distance and sans public transport, Restaurant Clé de Sol and La Table du Belvédère sit right next door to the convention center and the area hotels.

Afterward, if you’re feeling celebratory, the walk over to Café des Artistes in the Grund neighborhood is an essential visit for anyone who enjoys live, traditional music and general merriment. Café des Artistes, though styled after an early-20thcentury Parisian establishment, is made firmly Luxembourg with its rotation of amateur piano players hammering out national classics that get the whole bar singing along. Not to worry, they’ll

OLD AND NEW:

Passerelle Bridge (above), and Fort Thüngen and Museum of Modern Art (left) PHOTOS: © RYHOR BRUYEU | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MADRABOTHAIR | DREAMSTIME .COM

throw in something like Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” for the English-speaking crowd. Or you’re welcome to step up and tickle the ivories yourself.

Whatever you do, save some time to walk around Luxembourg City. Do the walk down from Kirchberg at least once and marvel at Fort Thüngen before winding downhill along a mix of paved walking paths and a dirt trail before dipping into quieter, residential areas just outside of the city center. Walk the bridges for sweeping cinematic views of the city that seem perfect for the next romantic classic. Then shoot back to reality by looking down from the Passerelle Bridge at Skatepark Péitruss, where young Luxembourgers grind the rails and ride their BMX bikes throughout the day.

If you’re lucky, you might even get a little rain at night, because — Paris, eat your heart out — there’s a palpably special, even romantic, sensibility about the way the water glistens over those Luxembourg cobbles from Grund to the Palais Grand-Ducal.

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after 5 | ST. PETERSBURG

Indulgent Nights Step out to St. Petersburg’s abundant theaters, clubs and bars. BY KRISTY ALPERT

SHOW TIME:

Alexandrinsky Theatre (left), and the auditorium of the Mikhailovsky Theatre (right) PHOTOS: © DIMBAR76 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANNA PAKUTINA | DREAMSTIME.COM

f glass o a r e Ord ess o impr t r a g u Pol rinking d n a i s Rus grab a d n a , s buddie e hard h t f o bottle t le-mal g n i s d to-fin tyt a du a d n e l rye b r on you p o h s free me. way ho

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RUSSIA’S SECOND-LARGEST CITY is second to none for after-hours entertainment. St. Petersburg was built over 42 islands, earning it the nickname the “Venice of the North.” But unlike its Italian counterpart, St. Petersburg can thank its imperial past for its lively grand squares and lavish offerings.

Even for visitors not interested in ballet or musical performances, understanding the nightly performance schedule is the key to navigating the city’s after-hours scene, as everything from dinner reservations to club hours revolves around the theater. The city is home to more than a hundred venues and theater companies that dictate the nighttime line-up of events.

Dinner reservations generally start early (most open around 6 p.m.) to allow for ample time to get to one of the evening shows, although dinner itself is a show at the city’s oldest continually serving restaurant, L’Europe. Set inside the Art Nouveau dining room of Belmond’s Grand Hotel Europe, the restaurant transports diners back in time to Russia’s golden age of indulgence, where each night a live band serenades the entrance of courses, like blini topped with Oscietra

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caviar and delicate veal poached in Port wine.

After-dinner entertainment starts with a trip to one of the main theaters in town — including the Mariinsky Theatre, the Bolshoi Academic Drama Theatre, the Alexandrinsky Theatre and the Mikhailovsky Theatre — where world-famous ballet dancers or vocalists captivate viewers as they perform classics like Swan Lake, Giselle, Cinderella and La Bohème. Theater season begins in early fall and stretches through early June, but the best time to see the top performers in Russia is between mid-September and December.

Clubs and bars begin to open around the time the theaters let out, and a great place to start is the hipster favorite Barodabar or Bar 812 to sip handcrafted cocktails made by tattooed mixologists wearing suspenders. The LGBTQ scene in St. Petersburg, while more liberal than elsewhere in Russia, is still developing and is not on par with other European cities. LGBTQ travelers may want to practice discretion. However, that hasn't stopped Central Station from filling its dance floor almost every night since it opened for the LGBTQ community more than 10 years ago. For a more chill night out, it doesn’t get much cooler than The Hat Bar in Nevsky Prospect. This jazz club features live music nightly, along with one of the best whiskey selections in the city.

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ZIP Code Email

neighborhoods | SÃO PAULO

PEACEFUL PARK:

Ibirapuera Park with pedestrians and bikers during the day (left), and with fountains at night (right) PHOTOS: © BRAZILIAN TOURISM BOARD

Serene in São Paulo Find quietude and culture in tony Jardim Paulista. BY CHADNER NAVARRO

Venezuela Guyana

Colombia

Suriname French Guyana

Brazil

Peru

Bolivia

São Paulo

Chile

Paraguay

Argentina

Uraguay

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AS THE AMERICAS’ MOST populous city, with roughly 12 million inhabitants, São Paulo and its often manic buzz can make it difficult to find a quiet respite.

That is unless you decide to hole up in the residential neighborhood of Jardim Paulista. Located in the southwest of the city’s central nucleus, this typically laidback district features palatial homes and leafy streets that feel a world away from the louder, more cramped areas in the center of São Paulo. In fact, it’s not far at all. If you can avoid traffic, Jardim Paulista is a brisk 15-minute drive from tourist-friendly downtown. (But if there is traffic, what the 15 minutes transforms into is anyone’s guess.)

Flavia Liz di Paolo, a top Brazilian guide who specializes in insider access to São Paulo, often recommends Jardim Paulista for a few reasons, chiefly so her clients can take advantage of the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Ibirapuera Park. Generally considered among the world’s most beautiful urban green spaces, Ibirapuera Park provides a lush escape from São Paulo’s high-rises

and skyscrapers, yes, but there’s also incredible peoplewatching and world-class art. On weekends thousands upon thousands retreat to the park, making it almost as crowded as many other pockets of the city; however, on weekdays there’s a wonderful air of serenity, though you will still find a decidedly dynamic liveliness to your visit as you stroll past yoga sessions on the grass or impromptu dance-offs among teens who might be cutting classes.

The countless art institutions housed in this 17 million-square-foot park will suit nearly every artistic taste: the São Paulo Biennial Foundation; São Paulo Museum of Modern Art; Museum of Contemporary Art; and the OCA Pavilion, a dome-shaped building designed by Niemeyer that contains the Museum of Aeronautics and the Museum of Folklore. Indeed, Di Paolo suggests taking several days to truly tackle all the experiences the park offers.

To continue this easygoing state of leisure, head to nearby Hotel Unique, the stunning, watermelonshaped hotel designed by Niemeyer protégé Ruy Ohtake. It recently launched one of the most beautiful spas in town, a sumptuous all-wood hideaway featuring wine-infused treatments by Caudalie. Afterward, cap off the day with a drink at Skye, the hotel’s see-and-beseen rooftop bar offering panoramic views of a portion of the city, including the urban madness you avoided by staying exactly where you are.

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friends & family | HAWAI'I

Island Hopping Explore Hawai’i’s tropical beauty, one isle at a time.

BY KATIE MCELVEEN

ICONIC ALOHA:

Statue of "Father of Modern Surfing" Duke Kahanamoku greets visitors to Waikiki Beach, Oahu.

PHOTO: © TROPICDREAMS | DREAMSTIME.COM

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HOME TO JUNGLED MOUNTAINS, stunning beaches, exotic culture, lots of cool activities and even world-class infrastructure, Hawai’i poses a nagging question: How do you choose your favorite among the isles that comprise this magical chain? Luckily, you don’t have to — wellpriced flights make hopping among islands quick and affordable.

Oahu may be Hawai’i’s most developed island, but it never lost sight of its Polynesian roots. Beautifully restored Iolani Palace, the only royal residence in the United States, and the Bishop Museum both tell the story of the Hawai’ian monarchy, overthrown in the 1890s.

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A wave of Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese immigrants arrived on Oahu in the 1800s; explore their legacy in Honolulu, filled with block after block of authentic tastes, smells and experiences ranging from boisterous dim sum houses and shops selling the Portuguese doughnuts called malasadas to tiny storefronts packed with lei makers patiently stringing in silence.

If it’s Saturday, follow an early-morning climb to the top of Diamondhead with a breakfast of freshly made specialties like macadamia nut cake, pineapple bread pudding and fried rice studded with barbequed pork at the Kapi’olani Community College Farmer’s Market near the base of the mountain.

Lively Waikiki Beach made surfing famous, and its manageable waves make it a great place to learn the ancient sport of kings. Surf schools abound; the pros at Aloha Beach Services can get even the most balance-challenged novice up at least once. Farther afield, you’ll spot whales and world-class surfers among the massive waves along the funky North Shore; on the island’s east coast, rent kayaks at Kailua Beach and paddle to one of the crater-filled volcanic cays that stud the calm water, or ogle the mansions along adjacent Lanikai Beach.

For an unforgettable encounter, let the marine biologists who run Wild Side Specialty Tours take you into the sea to snorkel with pods of curious wild dolphins.

COOL WATERS:

Lower Waikamoi Falls off the Road to Hana on Maui PHOTO: © MNSTUDIO | DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI This Big Island property takes its cues from nature with lots of treeshaded spaces, a gorgeous beach, dramatic lava formations and even a natural aquarium filled with tropical fish.

72-100 Ka`upulehu Drive, KailuaKona, Hawai’i $$$$$

When it’s time to get out of the sun, outdoorsy types can hop onto one of the easily accessible hiking trails that embroider the hilly jungle to spot dramatic waterfalls, wild banana plants and tropical flowers you thought only existed in the florist’s cooler. Shoppers will want to explore designer treasures at Ala Moana Center and the shops along Kalakaua Avenue.

Where Oahu bustles, Maui calms. Dotted with farms and villages like surf-centric Paia, the pastoral upcountry gives way to an array of beaches ranging from wide, sun-splashed strands to intimate coves. D.T. Fleming Beach Park offers easy access to a number of hiking trails; Ka’anapali Beach, with its soft sand, palm trees, calm water and views of Lanai in the distance, is a Hawai’ian beach of dreams. To snorkel with sea turtles, grab your gear and stroll along Ka’anapali to Black Rock Beach, where the shy swimmers gather to feast on the buffet of aquatic plants that flourish around the rocks. Along the Makena Coast, Wedding Beach offers a tiny pocket of paradise, reached through a doorway carved into an ancient stone wall.

Rising more than 10,000 feet, Haleakala, Maui’s dormant volcano, sees the first and last light of each day on the island. There are a number of ways to take in the scene, including sunrise tours — excursions that end with a cycle ride down the mountain — and sunset outings with time on the summit for a laser-guided and telescopic exploration of the brilliant night sky.

Mention you’re visiting Maui to just about anyone and they’ll ask if you’ll be driving the Road to Hana, a

52-mile-long twisting roadway known as much for its 600 hairpin turns as it is for the remarkable sights — a blacksand beach, placid pools, roaring waterfalls and valley overlooks — it passes. Tell them, “Yes,” then visit Maui Roadsters, which rents reproduction 1957 Porsche Speedster convertibles, thus ensuring you’ll take those turns in style. Plan to take the day — you’ll want to dip your toes in the water, shoot dozens of photographs and grab a bite to eat in Hana or Paia.

Unlike Maui’s beauty, which unfolds at its own pace, Hawai’i Island is all about drama. Topping the list is Kīlauea Volcano, erupting with waves of fiery lava within Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park since 1983. Since the best time to see the lava flow is at night, consider taking a guided late-day hike or a boat tour, which gets you frontrow seats to the spectacular show. Kīlauea’s liquid fire is just one aspect of the 505-square-mile park. The 11-mile crater-rim drive offers views into the smoking caldera; you can also walk through a lava tube and check out an underground volcano observatory.

Hawai’i Island is also home to Mauna Kea, which, at nearly 14,000 feet, is the state's highest point. Long dormant, it’s now topped with telescopes and ranks among the best destinations in the world for checking out stars, planets, galaxies and other points of light in the velvet sky.

On an island filled with the most spectacular of sights, Waipio Valley still manages to stand out, thanks in part to the majestic waterfalls that plunge over volcanic cliffs, cascade down deep green ravines and tumble into placid pools, often from more than 1,000 feet. Although you

HALEKULANI An oasis of calm in the center of Waikiki beach, Halekulani is a graceful resort where white marble piazzas sweep past courtyards planted with fragrant plumeria and frangipani.

2199 Kalia Road, Honolulu, Oahu $$$$$ HOTEL WAILEA Perched on a bluff overlooking the Pacific, this Relais & Châteaux Maui property centers around a stunning pool; beach lovers can take a free shuttle to a private beach club.

555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, Maui $$$$$

INFO TO GO

Major carriers serve Oahu (HNL), Maui (OGG), Hawai’i Island (Hilo, ITO/Kailua-Kona, KOA) and Kauai (LIH) from the U.S. mainland and, with regional partnerships, among islands, so you can begin your trip on one island and return from another. If you’d rather book a roundtrip from the same island, Hawaiian Airlines, Island Air and Mokulele Airlines offer reasonably priced inter-island flights. Taxis serve all airports, as do car rental companies; most hotels also offer transport via van or limousine.

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NATURAL BEAUTY:

Waimea Canyon, Kauai (top), and Poipu Beach Park, Kauai (bottom) PHOTOS: © MNSTUDIO | DREAMSTIME.COM, © EDDYGALEOTTI | DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

BAR ACUDA Chef Jim Moffatt came to Kauai on vacation and never left; his tapas and wine bar is as wellknown for creative small plates as it is for its creative cocktails.

5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei, Kauai $$$ CHEF MAVRO At this legendary Honolulu restaurant serving French/Hawaiian fusion in a romantic setting, go for the Chef’s menu with wine pairings.

1969 S. King St., Honolulu, Oahu $$$$$ MERRIMAN’S RESTAURANT Enjoy local fish and Hawai’ianinflected fare with live music in an elegant oceanfront setting in Kapalua. End your meal with drinks around the fire pit.

1 Bay Club Place, Kapalua, Maui $$$$

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can drive to a lookout, consider a tour, either by Jeep or horseback, which will let you get close to all that gorgeousness.

On Hawai’i Island, even the beaches have style — beyond Punalu’u, with its famous black sand, there’s also Papakolea, notable for green sand, and Hapuna, a classic turquoise and blue strand notable in its classic perfection.

If you only have time for one activity on Hawai’i Island, make it an open-door helicopter tour with Paradise Helicopters. You’ll see it all — the volcanoes, the beaches, the waterfalls and Waipio Valley — as the wind rushes in.

Less than a quarter the size of Hawai’i Island, Kauai also offers a surprising range of ecosystems and ways to experience them. Verdant green valleys, many strung with zip lines, spread for miles. To the west, the striated walls of Waimea Canyon reflect sunset shades of rose and gold as they plummet more than 3,300 feet. Radiating from Mount Wai’ale’ale, an extinct volcano and the wettest place on Earth, Hawai’i’s five navigable rivers rush toward the sea carrying canoers, kayakers and mountain tubers along for the ride. At the beach, water that ranges from bathtub calm to positively surly attracts splashers, swimmers, snorkelers and surfers. Even better, the island’s petite dimensions mean that after spending the morning in a state of adrenaline-fueled bliss, you can be on the beach by lunchtime, toes digging into the sand, mai tai in hand.

Many visitors stay in sunny Poipu, but Kauai’s North Shore offers a decidedly authentic experience. Hanalei, a laid-back beach town that, it’s said, is the mythical home of Puff the Magic Dragon, abounds with galleries, local coffee houses and surf shops. On Hanalei Bay, just a few blocks off the main drag, first-time surfers are pushed to the beach by gentle waves. If you’re lucky, you might spot Bette Midler or Pierce Brosnan strolling along the strand since both own beachfront homes on the bay. In typical Kauai fashion, everyone knows where the celebrities live, but no one really seems to care. It’s also where you can access the 11-mile-long Kalalau Trail, the only land access to the 3,000-foot-tall cliffs that comprise the legendary Na Pali coast. Take water, go early and be sure to have plenty of space on your camera. The views are astonishing.

bucket list | TANZANIA

On Safari Encounter incredible wildlife in the stunning landscape of Tanzania. BY FELICITY LONG

INTO THE WILD: (Left to right) An elephant, a Maasai in distinctive red clothing, zebras and a giraffe PHOTOS: © FELICITY LONG

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THE TROUBLE WITH BUCKET-LIST trips is they don’t always live up to the hype. With high expectations can come disappointment — not so on an African safari.

Picture the vast plains of Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, for example, with its eerily stunning topography. Flora with strange shapes, like sausage trees and flat-topped acacia, stand silhouetted against golden shrubbery that gives way to acres of green landscape after the rain.

Colorful, exotic birds flit about the landscape, living in harmony with giant, lumbering emus that look like they just stepped out of a picture book.

Abundant herds of striped zebras move in large clusters, collecting by watering holes and stopping as one to stare quizzically at passing vehicles.

Cheetahs are known to sprawl in the road, enjoying a post-lunch snooze in the sun, only reluctantly moving when a safari vehicle comes uncomfortably close. Giraffes, sometimes singly or in small groups, stretch their necks to pluck their salad dinner from the tops of trees.

Hippopotamuses sleep the day away together in smelly watering holes, often with just their snouts

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showing, their gray hides smooth and shiny from the water.

You may also see seemingly endless lines of migrating wildebeest snaking their way across the horizon and graceful gazelles and impala dotting the landscape, while baboons might show up at your lodge in search of chocolate and fresh fruit.

The big draw, of course, is the so-called Big Five — the lion, the elephant, the leopard, the Cape buffalo and the rhino — considered by some the benchmark of a successful safari. If you’re lucky, you’ll not only spot them in the wild but, in some cases, up close and personal.

Even getting to the Serengeti is part of the adventure, especially if — as is likely — some of your transportation is via bush plane. Be prepared to see animals moving in herds below you as you enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the countryside. Depending on your route, you may even fly past Kilimanjaro National Park, whose mountain — Africa’s tallest — was made famous by Ernest Hemmingway’s The Snows of Kilimanjaro.

Another highlight of a safari in this region is the people you are likely to meet. The Maasai, in particu-

INFO TO GO

Flying to Tanzania for a safari is the definition of a long-haul journey. You will most likely fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport — İstanbul (IST) and Dar es Salaam (DAR) are popular connecting airports — then take a shuttle flight to the domestic Arusha Airport, located about 35 miles away. From there your best bet is to have your safari company or lodge pick you up. The good news is your safari really begins during your airport transfers, as you are likely to see some dazzling animals along the way.

lar, who populate northern Tanzania near the game parks and are known for their distinctive red clothing, are often on hand to interact with visitors as guides. If you are fortunate, you may be invited to witness their distinctive jumping dance, accompanied by stomping, loud cries and percussive instruments.

A typical safari will last a half or full day, but it’s a good idea to plan for several back-to-back outings if you have specific animals you want to see. A good guide will not only know where the animals are likely to be at any given time of day, but they will also help you spot them once you are there, keeping in mind predators and non-predators alike may be hiding in plain sight.

Spotting a leopard dangling from a far-off tree limb as it sleeps off its lunch can take some practice and a good set of binoculars.

Lions, on the other hand, are sometimes eating or sleeping by the side of the road, not bothering to hide because few other animals are willing to take them on. Elephants are also known to stand firm as they tear branches and leaves with their trunks to eat or feed their young, even when approached by safari vehicles.

The first step in planning your safari is to realize this kind of vacation does require just that — planning, even for those of us who typically embark on leisure travel in a more freewheeling style.

Literally hundreds of tour companies specialize in Tanzania safaris, and they can recommend various types of accommoda-

tions and locations. If you hope to see migrations — your best bet for seeing animals in quantity — they steer you toward the best season and location for your great adventure. Generally, spring is the rainy season, and summer and early fall are considered the optimal times for game viewing.

Accommodations range from tented camps to safari lodges, and services usually include daily game drives, experienced guides, laundry and meals. Some also offer gourmet dining with wine pairings, luxurious linens and sundowners — evening cocktails at sunset.

Consult with your physician to make sure you comply with the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention guidelines for shots and malaria pills. You should also pack mindfully. Insect repellent and white and beige clothing, for example, are best for repelling tsetse flies, as are long sleeves and safari pants. Don’t be alarmed at these precautions. The goal is to keep you safe during your trip so you’re not distracted by insect bites or stomach bugs.

Keep in mind, also, if your trip includes a flight on a bush plane, the weight restrictions are strict, so leave the tiara and heels at home. The reason most safari lodges include laundry service is so you can pack light and enjoy a fresh set of clothes for your daily game drive without having too many clothes to transport.

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re you a , i r a af On s ot to sp y l e lik o more who d , s n le lio fema untthe h f o . most cubs r i e h nd t ing, a ea do se u o y n ale Whe ed m r o l o y-c tawn his with g n i t strut , it’s mane g n i flow u’ll ht yo g i s not a t. forge soon

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kicking back | RIBERA

DEL DUERO

Wine and Wellness Indulge in the genuine hospitality of Spain’s Ribera del Duero. BY KIMBERLY KROL FIRST, LET’S GET OUR BEARINGS: Ribera del Duero signifies a Spanish Denominación de Origen from the north of the country in the Castile and León region. The DO is generally located in the provinces of Burgos, Valladolid, Segovia and Soria, and is one of several wine-producing regions along the Duero River.

A bit of the region’s winemaking background: The

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DO was established in 1982, and its wines currently enjoy heightened popularity, thanks in part to the growth of wine tourism in Spain. The geological makeup of the area consists of tertiary sediments, limestone, marl and chalky concretion. The Duero Valley undulates, and the moderate to low rainfall and extreme climate conditions (it snowed during my late March visit) define the taste of the local wines, almost exclusively reds, particularly Tempranillo. The only white grown in the region derives from the Albillo grape.

To truly kick back, begin your visit and your wine immersion at the 5-star Hotel Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine, including a winery, hotel and spa. Housed in an ancient abbey transformed into the epitome of luxury, guests here enjoy butler service, among other first-rate amenities.

True indulgence is found in Santuario Wellness & Spa. The water ritual, which includes a Finnish sauna, steam bath, experience shower, hydrotherapy pool and an indoor heated pool, utilizes specially treated water. LeDomaine uses water from its own well, 395 feet below ground, which is extracted, decalcified and transferred to a reverse osmosis system, creating a quality likened to natural mineral water.

Another unique characteristic is the Spa Sommelier. Combining the concepts of Traditional Chinese Medicine with aromatherapy, the appropriate treatments for each spa-goer are determined through a tasting. After guests smell several oils and taste wines from the Abadia Retuerta Winery, the Spa Sommelier analyzes their preferences to customize the treatments that best meet each patron’s wellness needs. I trusted in the process, and the oils I selected were utilized in my Le Grand Cru treatment, a wrap and massage duo.

LOCAL LIFE:

(Left to right) Covarrubias; the wine experience at LeDomaine Spa; crystal selection at LeDomaine Spa; Soria; Portia Bodegas PHOTOS: © KIMBERLY KROL

LODGING

CASTILLA TERMAL MONASTERIO DE VALBUENA HOTEL & SPA In the heart of the DO, this 5-star hotel is located in a wellpreserved Cistercian monastery from the 12th century and boasts the first spa with five stars in Castile and León.

Calle Murallas, S/N, 47359 San Bernardo $$$$

I also completely surrendered during my Life Infusion Ritual facial, hands down the best I’ve ever had, using Natura Bissé skincare products. Before each treatment, you select a gemstone based on which color appeals to you at that moment.

Its complimentary color is also given to you and the meaning behind each is explained. You can choose to hold both or place them next to you during the treatment, further balancing your energies. Between the Spa Sommelier and the stones, spa-goers allow the needs of their bodies and minds to select the wellness journey for them.

The spa is only the beginning of the experience at Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine. There’s also Michelin dining, a personal trainer, exercise classes including yoga and Pilates, a winery and wine tasting, bike riding, falconry and more.

Wineries, obviously, abound in the region, offering numerous opportunities for wine tasting, many with unique, innovative experiences attached. Grupo Matarromera boasts three wineries in the Ribera del Duero DO: Matarromera Winery, Emina Ribera Winery and Renacimiento Winery. At Emina, also home to the comprehensive Emina Wine Museum, the one-of-a-kind “cosmeticata” activity pairs wines with Esdor

beauty products. Esdor produces natural products including red grape polyphenols. I tasted three Emina wines — Verdejo 2016, Rosado 2015 and Reserva 2012 — while learning more about the healing qualities of lotions and skincare creams crafted from the very same grapes.

Foster & Partners’ architectural wonder of Portia Bodegas, in Burgos, is rivaled only by the wines produced there. Opened in 2010 to combine the ancient art of winemaking with avantgarde oenology, the barrel room felt more like a modern art gallery, with pink lights showcasing the large-scale masterpieces lining the walls. The art changes regularly, and an on-site gastrobar offers tastings.

To continue your wine education, visit the Provincial Wine Museum, one of the most visited in Castile and León, and housed in the Peñafiel Castle, dating back to the 10th century.

The museum, opened in 1999, examines the culture of wine, its history and production techniques. Stunning, panoramic views of the town of Peñafiel also delight visitors to the castle.

In addition to Peñafiel, spend time in the many towns, cities and villages throughout the region and the DO, including Covarrubias, designated the nicest little town in Castile and

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HOTEL ABADIA RETUERTA LEDOMAINE Relax in 5-star luxury at LeDomaine, boasting 27 double rooms and three suites as well as Michelin-starred dining, a vineyard, outdoor activities and a decadent spa.

Expect unprecedented service.

47340 Sardón de Duero, Valladolid $$$$ PARADOR DE LERMA Housed in the ducal palace at Lerma, this 4-star parador features a central location and an elegant interior boasting lighting and décor from the Hapsburg era. Rooms range from doubles to suites and a duplex.

Plaza Mayor 1, 09430 Lerma, Burgos $$$

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SPANISH TREASURES:

Peñafiel Castle (top), and truffle hunting with Viveros Tuber (bottom) PHOTOS: © HOMYDESIGN | DREAMSTIME..COM, © KIMBERLY KROL

DINING

Baluarte At Michelin-starred Baluarte, chef Óscar García Marina dedicates special days to menus created around local products.

A menu crafted around black truffles from Soria included a truffle panna cotta.

Calle Caballeros 14, 42002 Soria $$$$ LA PARILLA DE SAN LORENZO For a traditional Valladolid dining experience, try the lamb, a local specialty in Castile and León, cooked in a wood-fired oven.

Calle Pedro Niño 1, 47001 Valladolid $$$ REFECTORIO The stunning setting of LeDomaine’s Refectorio restaurant is matched by its cuisine. Under the direction of head chef Marc Segarra, the restaurant earned its first Michelin star just three years after opening.

47340 Sardón de Duero, Valladolid $$$$

INFO TO GO

The closest international airport is Madrid-Barajas Airport. The drive to Valladolid takes approximately 2.5 hours.

Valladolid is connected to other provinces by highways. Regular bus and train service from Madrid is available to provinces throughout the region.

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León; Soria for its natural beauty; the historic center of Valladolid; and Lerma, a historic and artistic site.

That’s only the beginning of what this northern Spain region offers any type of traveler, as it also includes more popular tourist cities including Salamanca and Segovia, both World Heritage sites, and León with its Spanish Romanesque architecture.

This traveler kicked back with good wine, which goes hand in hand with good food. Nothing makes food and wine taste sweeter than understanding their origins, cultivations and beginnings. I not only embraced viticulture, I also embarked on a truffle hunting expedition with Viveros Tuber, a truffle plantation owned by two brothers maintaining a long-time family business. Group tours and private experiences are available.

I watched as the dogs — better for hunting truffles than pigs as they are less interested in eating what they find and more interested in the treat they’ll earn for finding the prized food — unearthed the ground’s treasures. I soon sat down to a Michelin-starred lunch where the Soria truffle was the star, appearing in each course from the appetizer to dessert.

Later, as the wine swirled in my glass and the earthy

aroma of the truffle emanated from the dish in front of me, I was reminded to savor these cherished moments in these special places. That’s a sentiment to which we can all raise a full-bodied glass of Ribera del Duero Tempranillo!

WE CALL IT PREMIUM ECONOMY

YOU CALL IT THE SEAT YOU’VE BEEN WAITING FOR With wider seats, noise-reducing headphones and sleeping amenities, you’ve got all the ingredients to arrive at your destination feeling refreshed. exploreamerican.com/pe

American Airlines and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2017 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

lgbtq

NETWORKING:

GNetwork360 is in its 10th year in Buenos Aires (left); and Pablo De Luca and Gustavo Noguera, founders of GNetwork360 (right).

PHOTOS: © GNETWORK360

Business to Business GNetwork360 focuses on LGBTQ tourism in Buenos Aires. BY MARK CHESNUT themes. The first day featured a corporate leadership forum, targeting issues like corporate poliBUENOS AIRES IS ONE of the highest-profile destinations cies and human resources. This year, the segment was co-hosted by the U.S.-based National Gay in South America for LGBTQ travelers, so it’s no surprise it & Lesbian Chamber of Commerce, with the organization’s CEO Chance Mitchell and the CEO makes an ideal host city for GNetwork360, one of the region’s of Miami-Dade Gay & Lesbian Chamber of Commerce Steve Adkins among the presenters. biggest conferences focused on LGBTQ tourism.

The second day focused on travel, complete with an LGBTQ travel expo with a host of tour The 10th edition, which took place in August at the operators, tourism offices, airlines and other suppliers. The third Alvear Palace Hotel, regisday focused on marketing and communications. tered about 1,500 participants ‘Growth has been fast. Since starting, Noguera noted GNetwork360 aims to address the most from 18 countries for four important issues facing the industry today. “The first day includes days of workshops, meetings we’ve attracted 10,000 people with how to be inclusive of transgender people in the corporate and networking events. various topics related to gay tourism.‘ environment,” he said. “That’s a very important theme. On The conference is the the second day, we focus on how millennials travel, and how to brainchild of Pablo De Luca — Pablo De Luca capture the attention of the Asian market — especially China and Gustavo Noguera, who — and how to use digital media. Another big topic is training for have worked to build the LGBT events in South America, like OutGames,” a major international LGBTQ sporting event. conference into a must-attend networking and educational Among the sponsors and participants are the Argentina Ministry of Tourism, the Buenos event for anyone interested in Latin American tourism.

Aires Tourism Board, IBM, Delta Air Lines and the International Gay and Lesbian Travel AsLooking back at 10 successful editions of GNetwork360, sociation. “it’s incredible how much it’s changed,” De Luca said.

Attendees also got to view one of the latest examples of the destination’s gay-friendly attitude.

“Growth has been fast. Since starting, we’ve attracted 10,000 This year, Buenos Aires became the first city in the world to name a subway station after an people with various topics related to gay tourism.”

LGBTQ rights activist.

The annual event covers various segments with different

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airport update

Pressure’s Rising Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta International Airport eyes expansive growth on the tarmac and in its terminals. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ INDONESIA IS HOME TO TWO of the most popular travel destinations in the world — Bali and Jakarta. With tourism numbers consistently on the rise, the pressure is on for Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, the busiest and largest airport in Indonesia and the overall busiest in the Southern Hemisphere.

Soekarno-Hatta, also known as Cengkareng Airport, serves the greater Jakarta area on the island of Java, located at Benda, Tangerand, only 12 miles northwest of central Jakarta.

Air intelligence company OAG ranked the airport the seventh-most connected in the world; however, despite being among the bestconnected and largest in the region, Soekarno-Hatta struggled in recent years to accommodate its flights.

The airport currently operates over capacity, moving 72 aircraft per hour on its two runways, which suffer from pavement and strength issues, limiting the airport’s capacity to smaller aircraft.

A brighter future is on the horizon, though, for the Indonesian airport, as a third runway is currently in the works to reduce congestion and achieve a target of 100 flights per hour upon completion in 2018. Discussions are also underway to upgrade the existing two runways to accommodate wide-body aircraft. When these runway upgrades are complete and the third runway’s construction is finished, the airport’s capacity will increase to 623,420 movements per year and will be poised for growth until at least 2030.

While construction continues outside the airport, other projects are in the works inside. Soekarno-Hatta, celebrated for its “garden within the airport” concept, saw the installation of tropical plants and flowers in the airport’s corridors, terminals, waiting and boarding areas. The airport’s iconic design by French architect Paul Andreu incorporates local Indonesian architecture, particularly in the roof, in the Javanese pendopo and joglo styles.

The airport’s Terminal 3 opened in 2016 with an ecofriendly, contemporary design. It currently houses all Garuda Indonesia flights, both domestic and international, as well as Saudia flights until further completion, when all international

flights will be moved to Terminal 3.

The changes don’t stop there. Airport operator Angkasa Pure II announced plans for the addition of Terminal 4 and the revitalization of terminals 1 and 2. Plans for Terminal 4 are still in discussion and could take some time. The revitalization projects for the existing terminals 1 and 2 are based on the need to expand rather than the need to modernize.

The exterior design will remain the same, but capacity will increase.

Currently the two terminals accommodate only 9 million passengers per year. After the revitalization project, they will accommodate double that number annually. Coupled with the capacity of Terminal 3, the airport will be able to serve 61 million passengers per year.

This summer Angkasa Pure II and Indonesia’s Tourism and Transportation Ministry launched a Tourist Information Center in Terminal 3 where international visitors can learn about the region’s destinations and attractions, book transportation accommodations and make reservations.

While there are a few roadblocks ahead and details to work out, exciting things are on the horizon for this Southeast Asia air hub.

SEPTEMBER 2017

NEW HORIZONS:

Soekarno-Hatta International Airport PHOTO: © MIRAGIK | DREAMSTIME

SOEKARNO-HATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT soekarnohatta-airport .co.id

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health

Best Foot Forward Take care of your feet and they will take you everywhere.

YOUR FEET MUST LAST A LIFETIME. Most Americans log an amazing 75,000 miles on their feet by the time they reach age 50. Regular foot care can make sure your feet are up to the task.

Just as you would not go a day without brushing your teeth, you should not go a day without taking care of your feet. Check your feet daily for cuts, sores, swelling and infected toenails. Clean them with warm water and soap when you bathe and dry them well.

Fungal organisms that cause infections love moisture; depriving them of wetness makes it more difficult for fungal infections to thrive. Be sure to dry well between the toes; any excess moisture here creates a great environment for a fungal infection. Avoid soaking your feet unless ordered to do so by your podiatrist. As you dry your feet, take a good look at the soles for scaling and between your toes for peeling areas. This could signal athlete’s foot. Look for discoloration of the nails, which could indicate a nail fungus. People with diabetes should inspect their feet daily since they have a higher risk of foot sores and infections.

Moisturize your feet every day with lotion, cream or petroleum jelly, but don’t put moisturizer between your toes. Trim your toenails straight across with a nail clipper and avoid trimming too close to the skin. Trimming them straight across prevents toenails from growing into your skin (ingrown toenail). Use an emery board or nail file to gently smooth the corners.

Protect your feet in public areas. Wear shower shoes at the gym, in locker rooms and at public pools, which tend to be breeding grounds for fungi that can cause infections.

Avoid sharing footgear. You can get fungal infections by wearing other people’s shoes or

socks. This includes rentals.

Your feet have sweat glands galore, about 250,000 in each foot. Perspiration creates the perfect environment for bacteria to grow.

Choose breathable footwear to keep feet dry; socks made of synthetic fibers wick away moisture faster than cotton or wool. Avoid wearing excessively tight pantyhose, which trap moisture. To keep your feet dry and healthy, wear shoes made of leather to allow air to circulate. If you’re prone to excessively sweaty feet, look for shoes made of mesh fabrics for maximum breathability.

Your shoes should fit properly and should not hurt your feet. Shoes that are too tight can cause long-term foot problems. Especially wear comfortable shoes when traveling. Shop for shoes at the end of the day to compensate for foot swelling that occurs later in the day, and wear the same type of socks or hosiery you’ll wear with the shoes. Choose a broad, rounded shoe with plenty of room for your toes and a wide, stable heel. Avoid pointy shoes, which can cramp your toes and cause ingrown toenails and calluses. Break in your shoes for two weeks before traveling. Skip the flip-flops and flats since they do not provide enough arch support.

Rotate your shoes so you do not wear the same pair every day.

Pedicures are fine provided the operators are licensed and the establishment is clean, with no board of health violations. If you have diabetes or poor circulation in your feet, consult a podiatrist who can recommend a customized pedicure you and your salon can follow for optimal foot health. Schedule your pedicure first thing in the morning; salon foot baths are typically cleanest earlier in the day.

BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

Make sure the salon filters and cleans the foot bath between clients. Bring your own pedicure utensils. Bacteria and fungi can move easily from one person to the next if the salon doesn’t properly sterilize tools. Resist the urge to shave your legs before receiving a pedicure. Freshly shaven legs or small cuts on your legs may allow bacteria to enter. If you are receiving a pedicure and manicure, don’t use the same tools for both services, as bacteria and fungi can transfer between fingers and toes.

Emery boards are extremely porous and can trap germs that spread. Since they can’t be sterilized, don’t share nail files with friends, and bring your own unless you are sure the salon replaces them for each customer. Because cuticles serve as a protective barrier against bacteria, don’t ever cut them, which increases the risk of infection. If you suffer from thick and discolored toenails, don’t apply nail polish to cover up the problem. If the problem persists, visit your podiatrist. It could be a sign of a fungal infection.

See a podiatrist whenever your feet hurt.

Do not attempt to self-treat painful foot woes; you may make the problem worse. A podiatric physician should check any persistant pain, redness, swelling or discoloration. Find a podiatrist who is board-certified and a member of the American Podiatric Medical Association. There are at least eight types of board certifications in podiatry. Make an appointment and be prepared to tell your podiatrist about the foot problems you are experiencing. Usually the problem can be cleared up with prescription medicine or a minor in-office procedure.

A podiatrist can help prevent minor problems from becoming major ones.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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past & present

Hawaiian Airlines began operations in 1929 with a fleet of two 8-seater Sikorsky aircraft and a Bellanca monoplane. A lot has changed since then. The carrier is now Hawai'i's largest and longest-serving airline, carrying more than 10 million guests a year.

The uniforms have also changed over the years, from the first DC-3 delivery in 1941 (top left), to the carefree 1971 patterned blues (top right), to the 1981 Orchids in the Sky uniforms (bottom left). Now, for 2017, the new uniforms coincide with the entry into service of Hawaiian’s first Airbus A321neo long-haul aircraft (bottom right).

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PHOTOS: Š HAWAIIAN AIRLINES

Hawaiian Airlines

Lie back and dream of Hawai‘i all the way there

We’ve taken authentic Hawaiian hospitality to a new level. Select A330 aircraft now feature lie-flat seats that transform into true beds, the centerpiece of a new Premium Cabin design inspired by the colors, shapes and textures of our home. Learn more at HawaiianAirlines.com.

PROUD TO BE NAMED GLOBAL TRAVELER’S “BEST LEISURE AIRLINE”

DISCOVER THE WILD T R AV E L W I T H N AT I O N A L G EO G R A P H I C

V E N T U R E TO T H E W O R L D’ S W I L D P L AC E S W I T H N AT I O N A L G E O G R A P H I C .

W H E T H E R YO U ’ R E O B S E R V I N G W I L D L I F E O N S A FA R I W I T H O U R E X P E R T S, HIKING THE ANDES ON AN ACTIVE EXPEDITION, OR SHOOTING IMAGES I N M O N G O L I A A LO N G S I D E O N E O F O U R P R O S O N A P H OTO G R A P H Y E X P E D I T I O N , W E G E T YO U C LO S E R T H A N YO U E V E R I M A G I N E D.

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