October 2019 Global Traveler

globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

October 2019

MILES TO GO Climb the Great Wall of China, an amazing wonder to behold.

p. 70

ABU DHABI p. 66 ATLANTA p. 58 THE CARIBBEAN p. 72 LONDON p. 60 MEXICO CITY p. 62 OSAKA p. 52 TALLINN p. 64

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

IN THE FALL SPIRIT AHH, AUTUMN! This month’s cover of the Great Wall of China surrounded by the changing leaves of the season certainly gave me all the fall feels, and brought warm memories and eager anticipation for all of my favorite fall activities here in Bucks County, Pennsylvania.

There’s apple and pumpkin picking, drives to take in the beautiful foliage, decorating the house and outdoors with mums and gourds, and much more. What are your favorite seaAUTUMN GLOW: sonal activities in your hometown?

Kimberly Krol apple picking last fall in Bucks County Of course, we also celebrate the PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL season with haunted everything — hayrides, corn mazes, houses, and this month, we take a more in-depth look at the phenomenon of haunted tourism. This can range from hotels with ghoulish permanent residents to haunted tours to tours and attractions themed around true crime to fictional scares, like haunted houses. Whichever way the witch’s broom points, haunted tourism is big business, year-round.

I’ve taken haunted tours in several cities, from domestic destinations like Charleston to international spots like Prague. I creepily re-traced the path of Jack the Ripper in the City of London and I screamed in fright when character actors popped out to scare me during a ghost tour in Ireland. I also cried and buried my head in my mom’s shoulder as a more skittish teen at Universal Studios Orlando’s Fright Night. These tours and attractions can also be a unique way to learn more about the history of a destination; after all, the tales of scares and legendary lore start somewhere.

Screams and ghosts may not be for everyone, and that’s not all we bring you this month. We get to know what’s next for Aeromexico, hear from Jumeirah’s new chief culinary officer and take a look at pop-culture cruising. We also jet off to Jerusalem, Osaka, Atlanta, London, Mexico City, Tallinn, Abu Dhabi, China and the Caribbean.

Sail away with us next month as we bring you our second annual Cruising Issue. Until then, happy frights and fall festivals!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com Social Media & Editorial Coordinator MARY MELNICK mary.melnick@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

SUSAN BARNES HARRIET BASKAS RON BERNTHAL MARK CHESNUT BECCA HENSLEY RINA NEHDAR RICHARD NEWTON IRENE RAWLINGS JAN SCHRODER

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

’s modern Jerusalem s Light CityPas ted Rail star in 2011; operations tickets individual t 5.9 cost abou round shekels (a e way. $1.60) on e about Learn mor on Jerusalem page 48.

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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GENERAL INQUIRIES/ISSUE REQUESTS/REPRINTS tel 267 364 5811 SUBSCRIPTIONS tel 818 286 3134 | gbtcs@magserv.com PUBLIC RELATIONS Kimberly Krol tel 267 364 5811 ext 202 | kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com LETTERS TO THE EDITOR letters@globaltravelerusa.com Global Traveler is published monthly by FXExpress Publications, Inc., 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067. The U.S. subscription rate is $42 for one year, $79.95 for two years, $121.95 for three years.

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letter from the publisher ® ®

WEATHERING THE STORM OCT. 10 IS MY BIRTHDAY, and last year we were sailing on the high seas on the Queen Mary 2 when Hurricane Michael made devastating landfall at Mexico Beach and Tyndall Air Force Base near Callaway, Florida. For many parts of the country, and the world for that matter, these are unknown places. For those living and working in the region, it was a life-changing event and the people, land and more have yet to fully heal.

ON THE WAY: For me, it was a personal blow as we have a Francis with his wife and daughter ready to board their flight rental property on the barrier island of St. Joseph PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER Peninsula on the Gulf of Mexico, specifically Cape San Blas. People often ask how I found Cape San Blas and I think back to when the Deepwater Horizon oil rig ruptured in the Gulf on April 20, 2010.

Though most people would run the other way, the footage of pristine beaches drew my attention. On a trip to Miami, I took a long weekend, played golf at Bay Point Resort and Golf Club, Panama City (see GT April 2011), and drove to Port St. Joe to meet with Glenda McLemore, owner of g3 Realty Group.

I saw many great places and went back to business, always keeping the Cape in the back of my mind. Glenda presumed I was one of those people who liked touring houses but never purchase. Finally, in January 2014 we headed to Florida to get away from the cold Northeast. The worst ice storm in recorded history struck, but the next day we toured properties and found one. We ended up as displaced Yankees on the Forgotten Coast, close to Apalachicola, known for its oysters and the inventor of air-conditioning.

Everything was like a dream as we rented the place to Michigan snow birds in winter and Atlantans in summer.

When Michael hit, 162 mph winds caused unprecedented damage; Mexico Beach looked like a nuclear bomb went off. Homes were destroyed, many ripped off their foundations. We were lucky the roof remained on and the windows stayed intact, but as they say, water finds a way. Our significant damage has been repaired and we are back in business with happy renters enjoying the Gulf. I pray for those affected by Hurricane Dorian, which recently caused devastation elsewhere. I know how it feels, and I encourage you to give to the charity of your choice; I recommend the American Red Cross.

Turning back to travel, I am flying to Lanai in Hawai’i and staying at the Four Seasons to celebrate my birthday in style while playing golf. I’m looking forward to United’s non-stop flight from Newark to Honolulu in its lie-flat business-class seats. I’ll report back about that service as well as the resort and golf course.

Lastly, our friends at Posadas have a special offer at globaltravelerusa.com or in this issue. Book any of Posadas’ properties with the best available rate on its website or through 1 800 FIESTA 1, and use code GLTRAVELER to receive one additional night free. I highly recommend you try a fantastic Posadas property.

I plan on traveling to Mexico soon to enjoy the cultural aspects of Mexico City and venture off for some great golf, too!

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Director of Sales BILL LODZINSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 205 | bill.lodzinski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 | stephanie.makowski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive CHRISTOPHER SAGER tel 267 364 5811 ext 204 | chris.sager@globaltravelerusa.com Production & Advertising Coordinator YASSER OGANDO tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

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contents

October 2019 52

PHOTOS: © DISNEYLAND RESORT, © AEROMEXICO, © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM

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FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

40 Things That Go Bump in the Night Ghosts, vampires and spirits lure travelers seeking bone-chilling thrills.

52 Destination One: Osaka Through historic ups and downs, Osaka remains a formidable economic and cultural force.

44 Going Global Aeromexico expands its network, upgrades its fleet and improves the passenger experience.

58 Stateside: Atlanta Atlanta carries on with vigorous rebuilding and reinvention.

48 Modern Moves History and high tech attract meetings and events to Jerusalem.

60 9–5: London Impress clients in King’s Cross, London’s newest hub for business and culture.

62 After 5: Mexico City Enjoy an after-hours lesson in local flavor in Mexico City.

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ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

October 2019

MILES TO GO Climb the Great Wall of China, an amazing wonder to behold.

p. 70

ABU DHABI p. 66 ATLANTA p. 58 THE CARRIBEAN p. 72 LONDON p. 60 MEXICO CITY p. 62 OSAKA p. 52 TALLINN p. 64

COVER PHOTO: GREAT WALL OF CHINA PHOTO: © PRASIT RODPHAN - DREAMSTIME.COM

contents

October 2019

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23

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LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

23 Technology 28 Wine & Spirits 29 Wealth 30 Tours 32 Spas 34 Golf 36 Chefs 38 Cruising 76 LGBTQ+ 80 Health

10 Mail Call 13 News 16 Reviews 21 One on One Alitalia 22 One on One Los Angeles World Airports 78 Airport Update 82 Preview

64 Neighborhoods: Tallinn Tallinn honors its complex past while forging a hip future.

66 Friends & Family: Abu Dhabi Theme parks to motor sports to museums, Abu Dhabi entertains all ages.

70 Bucket List: Great Wall of China Climb the Great Wall of China, an amazing wonder to behold.

72 Kicking Back: The Caribbean Hop about the Caribbean on your next indulgent getaway.

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FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material.

AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2019 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

PHOTOS: © CHRISSTANLEY - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SURIEL RAMIREZ ZALDIVAR - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SONY, © KRISTY ALPERT, © WILSON DANIELS / BIONDI-SANTI

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Seoul’s Flagship Hotel Celebrates Feng Shui Celebrate the East Asian philosophy with a special offer from THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection.

FOR A 5-STAR STAY in the center of Seoul, THE PLAZA Seoul, Autograph Collection is the ultimate choice. And now, travelers can dive deeper with the luxury hotel, as its special offer based on the East Asian concept of feng shui allows guests into the heart of local culture. Also discover genuine modern Korean-style cuisine at our one Michelin-starred Korean restaurant, Joo Ok. SEOUL PROVES THE PERFECT location for an offer of this caliber, as its surroundings, with mountains to the north, south, east and west and a river running through it, were once considered the perfect embodiment of feng shui concepts. Feng shui is based on traditional geomantic principles that link good fortune to the art of placing buildings and other structures in harmony with the natural environment.

THE PLAZA SEOUL, Autograph Collection’s feng shui-centric offer is the first of its storytellinginspired promotions; the hotel aims to go beyond commercial aspects and bring guests into the culture and history of the city. Guests will enjoy deep relaxation and good luck during one night in a PLAZA Suite, with premium linens, and the chance to earn up to 25,000 Marriott Bonvoy points, which normally require a spend of $2,215 at a Marriott property. This offer, available for multiple nights, is priced from $363 a night.

ADDITIONAL OFFERED BENEFITS include use of THE PLAZA fitness club, tickets to nearby Deoksugung Palace and admission to the Club Lounge, located on the top floor of the hotel.

In-room dining options offer a unique menu of traditional Korean dishes made according to recipes shared by jongga, respected head families in Korea.

Learn more at marriott.com, or by calling 02 310 7710, and be well on the way to enjoying deep rest, good fortune and luxury accommodations in the heart of Seoul.

mail call Q&A WITH TRACEY CULLEN, ART DIRECTOR

Q&A WITH BILL LODZINSKI, DIRECTOR OF SALES

In our August issue, our art director, Tracey Cullen, mentioned her love of seeking new wineries wherever she travels, including a bucket list filled with winetasting locales. This inspired the question: What is your favorite wine destination? Did our Food & Wine Issue give you any ideas for where you’d like to go wine tasting?

Although English is the international language, I found through my travels around the world that language barriers can still be challenging and daunting. Over the years, I have collected countless language phrase books for many of the countries I have visited. In my experiences, their effectiveness has been hit or miss.

How have you overcome language barriers in your world travels?

Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

Wine tasting is becoming my new favorite reason to travel.

My friends and I took an impromptu weekend trip to Napa Valley a few years ago, and we swore we would make it a regular thing. Now we try new wineries or revisit our favorites every chance we have to get together.

emotional support animal for a brief period of time.

SHEILA WELLARD, via email My wife and I go to the Finger Lakes in New York every summer to meet up with friends and explore the various wine trails. We’ve been going for 12 years.

JACKSON REED, via email

SEEKING SUPPORT FOR SUPPORT ANIMALS In the July 30 issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on an emotional support dog biting an Envoy Air flight attendant, causing airlines to revise animal policies, spurring readers to write in:

You need to double-check your details. Doctors never stitch wounds from dog bites — I have several friends who have been bitten, and the wound needs to heal in the open. Sorry to hear about this accident.

Dog bites are extremely painful and — honestly! — where was the passenger?

DIANE HERRMANN, Irvine, California

I do not believe emotional support animals should be allowed in the cabin. They belong in a properly maintained cargo hold.

Too many of these animals are merely favorite pets considered too “nice” to be put into a cage and are not well-trained — or not trained at all — as are true service animals. Many people have animal allergies or fears of cats or dogs that can be as debilitating as not being with an

I fly almost every week and have encountered a number of emotional support animals in my travels. I have also traveled with true service animals. You never even know a service animal is on board. They are well-trained and are truly needed for their owner to live each day.

The emotional support animals I have seen have been poorly trained or not trained at all. I have experienced a dog barking for the entire flight, and my son was on a plane where a support animal had a large bowel movement in the center aisle, fouling the air for the entire plane. These actions prove these animals are not trained for any purpose. Airlines have always allowed certain animals to fly in pet containers but with a fee. In fact, my daughter flies

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler.

We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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PHOTOS: © BILL LODZINSKI, © LINDA WILLIAMS - DREAMSTIME.COM

WILLIAM HARNED, Mason, Ohio

mail call with her small dog in a travel crate and pays the fee.

I wonder about people allergic to animal dander. What are they supposed to do when there is an animal on the flight?

No one seems to address that issue. My grandson is allergic to cat dander and dog hair; my son and his wife carry an EpiPen when they fly with him. No one should be in a position to suffer a miserable allergy attack because someone wants to bring a pet along.

If, in fact, an animal is an emotional support animal, I do not understand why it cannot travel in a crate. If it is too large for a crate, perhaps the owners should consider driving to their destination. Or the owner could purchase the entire row of seats so they can restrain the animal next to the wall.

If someone must have an emotional support animal because of the fear of flying, maybe they should talk to their doctor about a prescription for an anxiety medication. Having these animals unrestrained puts everyone at risk, and often it seems the owner simply wants to avoid the fee or bring an animal too large to fly.

It’s time the airlines and the government stood up for the rights of the majority instead of the few who just want to avoid the fees.

VICKI SHARP, via email My first preference is to ban all animals from the airplane cabin. If that is impossible due to legislation, then more precise regulations need to be implemented to ensure legitimate service/emotional support animals are allowed, requiring verification/documentation by a physician/ psychiatrist instead of accepting the word of the passenger. Standards presently are uneven and inconsistent from airline to airline. Regulatory standards need to be established on the federal level.

JOHN NISHIMOTO, via email

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OCTOBER 2019

GO GREEN OR GO HOME In our Aug. 6 issue of eFlyer USA, we reported on InterContinental Hotels Group’s decision to end miniature toiletries as part of the brand’s sustainability efforts. A few readers wrote in with thoughts: I think it’s fantastic InterContinental Hotels Group is going to larger bulk items for toiletries. It’s such a waste to get one use out of a tiny bottle of shampoo and then throw it away. Hooray for IHG!

PATTI CAVLOVIC, via email Regarding InterContinental switching to bulk amenities: Do the hotel maids sanitize the “spout” of these after each customer checks out? I don’t like using something after someone touched it to clean their body due to bacteria and illnesses.

PHYLLIS DOBBS, via email IHG’s new policy regarding the minitoiletries is a disaster, and I will avoid IHG hotels in the future.

First of all, I collect these small souvenirs to bring home. Friends and family admire my huge collection and consider me a true globetrotter. Secondly, no hotel should tell me how to live my life. I am a responsible person in all aspects, including when I travel. I don’t need any hotel’s patronage, and I use one single towel throughout my stay (as I would at home).

Finally, the hotels could give the partially used mini-bottles to charity, as some hotels used to do.

In Scandinavia, where I live, Scandic Hotels introduced soap dispensers years ago. I never stay in Scandic hotels anymore.

Professionally, I intend to agitate against IHG’s new policy.

ANDERS NIELSEN, via email

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2018

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WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from vacationing in Greece to visiting the Flight 93 National Memorial in Pennsylvania.

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news U.S. Senate Committee Passes Brand USA Extension Act

HIGH-SPEED TRAINS COMING TO U.S. WEST COAST While the United States is an advanced country in many areas, it lags behind other developed countries in high-speed train travel. That’s about to improve with the advent of a few new high-speed rail routes along the West Coast.

Over the summer, the Washington State Department of Transportation issued a report to argue its case for a high-speed rail route from Portland, Oregon, to Seattle, Washington, and Vancouver, British Columbia. The proposal states the train would travel at about 220 mph, thus linking Vancouver and Portland in just two hours, and Seattle and Vancouver in less than one hour. The current route served by Amtrak takes up to eight hours to travel between Portland and Vancouver.

Elsewhere in the region, Virgin Trains USA continues its mission to connect Las Vegas and the greater Los Angeles area via a high-speed rail route, a journey that would take less than two hours.

Construction is set to begin on the all-electric train in 2020, with an anticipated debut in 2023.

In late July, the United States Senate committee on Commerce, Science and Transportation passed the Brand USA Extension Act, a bill that would alter allocation of visitor taxes so the destination marketing organization would receive a small increase in funding.

Brand USA promotes the United States as a “premier travel destination” and informs international travelers of the country’s travel policies and procedures.

Under the bill, the Electronic System for Travel Authorization fee visitors from visa-waiver countries must pay in order to enter the United States will be raised from $14 to $21 and will be distributed via a new allocation structure: $4 to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, $7 to Brand USA and $10 to the general fund.

Some argue that due to the increasingly volatile situation at the U.S.-Mexico border, more funds should be directed to Customs and Border Protection. The bill also faces opposition from some airlines that believe travelers are already taxed too much to fly to the United States, but the ESTA fee is not part of airline taxes and fees. thebrandusa.com

wsdot.wa.gov

PHOTOS: © THOMAS BARRAT - DREAMSTIME.COM, © RICHAIR - DREAMSTIME.COM

amtrak.com virgin.com/richard-branson/introducing-virgin-trains-usa

United Airlines: Next to Offer Free WiFi? WANT MORE NEWS ON THE GO? SIGN UP FOR GT NEWSLETTERS Global Traveler’s weekly newsletters keep you up to date with info on the go. Sign up for newsletters at globaltravelerusa.com/newsletter.

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United Airlines wants to be the next airline to offer free in-flight WiFi for passengers.

During the past year, the airline tested the service on select flights to ensure the connection will be strong and reliable enough for passengers come launch time.

Currently, United offers in-flight WiFi on an hourly or daily basis, as well as through its North and Central America subscription package, which costs $49 per month or $539 per year. Global WiFi is also available for $69 per month or $689 per year.

The rollout date for this service is still to be determined, but United plans to announce the launch date during the next fiscal quarter. united.com

OCTOBER 2019

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news Bay Area Airports Alter Service

This fall San Francisco-area airports will cut and adjust service for select airlines, which may or may not affect standing travel plans.

To start, Alaska Airlines’ reduction in service at Dallas Love Field Airport will mean fewer flights to San José (SJC) and San Francisco (SFO) airports.

With the suspension of Boeing 737 MAX planes, Southwest has cut service from Oakland (OAK) to Indianapolis (IND), Minneapolis/St. Paul (MSP), Newark (EWR) and San Antonio (SAT), and from San Francisco to Austin (AUS). Daily service with American Airlines from Oakland to Dallas/ Fort Worth (DFW) also halted due to the grounding of these aircraft. aa.com alaskaair.com southwest.com

New Cruises for 2020

As the 2019 cruise season nears its end, now is the perfect time to explore a few itinerary debuts for the 2020 cruising season and schedule a cruise vacation for the new year.

French cruise company Ponant launches a 14-day itinerary through the Indian Ocean to Madagascar, Mauritius and Réunion. The small, 122-suite ship will also visit La Digue in the Seychelles.

Viking Cruises introduces a spring and fall Southeast Asia cruise aboard its Viking Orion ship. Guests on the 15-day journey will board in Bangkok and disembark in Hong Kong, making five port stops including Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Long Bay in Vietnam.

Embark on Abercrombie & Kent’s 15-day midsummer “In Search of the Polar Bear” tour. This cruise through the Arctic stops in Norway’s northern islands, Iceland and Greenland, all in the company of a photography expert who will help passengers with their polar bear snapshots. ponant.com vikingcruises.com abercrombiekent.com

According to the U.S. Travel Association, while the number of international visitors to the United States is on the decline, travel by Americans within the United States is on the rise.

This growth may be attributed to a few factors, including an increased interest in exploring American culture, such as civil rights and Native American history, as well as the emergence of musical cities such as Nashville and Austin.

Other contributing factors include the plethora of glamping resorts and high-end dude ranches which cater to the luxury travel market, as well as a whole new generation of travelers as millennials start to have children. ustravel.org

Approval for AA and Qantas Joint Venture

A partnership between American Airlines and Qantas Airways received final approval from the U.S. Department of Transportation.

With this new deal in place, the two airlines will be able to coordinate with each other to serve the United States, Australia and New Zealand. Combined frequent-flyer programs will allow passengers to earn and redeem points with both airlines.

As part of the oneworld alliance of airlines, American and Qantas plan to launch three new routes during their first few years of partnership. aa.com qantas.com oneworld.com

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PHOTOS: © ALEKSANDR STEPANOV - DREAMSTIME.COM, © GILLES BIZET - DREAMSTIME.COM, © BOARDING1NOW - DREAMSTIME.COM

U.S. Domestic Travel Increases

deals & rewards United Frequent Flyers Get CLEAR

Members of United’s MileagePlus program can now take advantage of a new perk: free or discounted membership fees for CLEAR. As part of the CLEAR program, travelers can pass through airport security using pregathered biometric data, such as an eye scan or a fingerprint.

Free membership will be granted to United Global Services and 1K Premier members, while United’s Premier Platinum, Gold and Silver members can enroll in the program for $109 per year instead of the annual fee of $179. Other MileagePlus members can enroll in CLEAR for $119 per year. united.com

Stay at an Airbnb, Earn British Airways Points

PHOTOS: © YEVHENII VOLCHENKOV - DREAMSTIME.COM, © BALOON111 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © DELTA AIR LINES

Members of British Airways’ loyalty program can now earn Avios points when they stay at Airbnb properties.

New members who create an Airbnb account have the opportunity to earn 500 welcome Avios miles, while existing Airbnb members and British Airways frequent flyers can earn three Avios points per U.S. dollar, euro or British pound spent.

To earn Avios points through Airbnb, members of both programs must be logged into their Airbnb portal on the British Airways website.

Additionally, Airbnb hosts can also earn up to 8,000 Avios points when they host travelers for the first time.

clearme.com

Hilton’s Loyalty Program Sees Influx

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At more than 94 million members, Hilton Hotels & Resorts saw a recent dramatic increase in its loyalty program membership.

In recent years Hilton Honors improved the lower tiers of elite status, which the group attributes to the increased interest in the loyalty program.

One such change allows travelers with smaller numbers of points to still take advantage of membership by partially redeeming points for travel or using points to make purchases on websites like Amazon.com.

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hilton.com/en/hilton-honors

Delta’s Direct Bookings on the Rise

Within the past 10 years, Delta Air Lines has seen an increase in travelers who book their flights directly on Delta’s website.

According to Delta’s CEO, Delta loyalty members find greater advantages to booking with Delta directly, leaving third-party agencies struggling to find more creative ways to entice travelers to book through their websites instead.

After solidifying a contract with American Express, leading to an increase in loyalty revenues by 19 percent, Delta loyalty members are more likely to book directly through the site with a name they know and trust in order to earn and redeem miles.

Marriott and Emirates Forge Partnership

In the latest news regarding hotel-airline program ventures, Marriott and Emirates launched the Your World Rewards program that allows Marriott Bonvoy elite members to earn bonus points when booking flights with Emirates, while Emirates elite flyers can earn extra Skywards miles when booking a stay with Marriott.

Also through this program, elite members of Marriott’s program will receive priority check-in and boarding for Emirates flights, and Skywards members can take advantage of late check-out at Marriott properties.

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LIVE AQUA PRIVATE RESIDENCE CLUB LOS CABOS Reviewed by Carly Allen

Arrival/Check-In: For a girls’ trip with my mom and sister, we decided on Cabo San Lucas to get some fresh air and margaritas. We booked a three-night stay at Live Aqua Private Residence, which sits on the same property as the Grand Fiesta Americana Golf Resort & Spa, but farther up on the hill, and comes with more personal services and privacy to add some exclusivity. The concierge helped arrange a car service for pick-up at the airport, something I highly recommend for any traveler coming to Mexico, and it took us straight to the Live Aqua Residence lobby, where we were greeted with fresh chilled hand towels and margaritas while we checked in. After, we hopped onto a golf cart and were whisked away to our villa.

Services/Amenities: The best part of Live Aqua Private Residence is the personal touch service with your own private pool shared with just a few other residences; there are always lounge chairs available and exceptional poolside service. We spent most of our time at the pool drinking margaritas and enjoying the best chips and guacamole I’ve ever had. The

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ The one-on-one service residence guests enjoy from the concierge and staff is top-notch and rivals any 5-star property I’ve been to. ◆ The Mai restaurant boasts the best guacamole and elevated Mexican dishes for all to enjoy.

Mai restaurant is also just for Live Aqua guests and open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with unique dishes. It will make anything upon request. The Sky Bar sits atop the main lobby with views of the Pacific Ocean and endless night sky, with fireplaces and couches for sitting to enjoy an evening cocktail.

Guests looking for different kinds of dishes have full access to the restaurants at the Grand Fiesta Americana as part of the all-inclusive stay; it’s just a three-minute golf cart ride down the hill. We enjoyed sushi and Italian nights, and I highly recommend the Peninsula Grill that sits along the beach with breathtaking views of the waves crashing on the rocks.

The Somme Wine Spa is wine-inspired, and I enjoyed a Sauvignon Blanc oil-infused Swedish massage to cap off my trip.

◆ Rock outcroppings surrounding the Grand Fiesta Americana and Live Aqua residences property provide guests with their own private beach.

LIVE AQUA PRIVATE RESIDENCE CLUB LOS CABOS Carretera Transpeninsular KM 10.3 Cabo Del Sol Lot, Los Cabos Baja California Sur, Mexico 23410 tel 52 624 145 6277 liveaquaresidenceclub.com

PHOTOS: © LIVE AQUA RESIDENCE CLUB LOS CABOS

Guest Quarters: The villas sit apart from the main residence area giving you a tranquil walk among the stone-paved walkway filled with fresh flowers. Our villa had two bedrooms, perfect for any family or group trip but still offering the quiet ambience you need. A solid oak door opened into a white-marbled entryway, and right away I noticed the eclectic art on the walls, providing a pop of color. I immediately walked into the full-service kitchen, modern with a large marble island. A fully stocked fridge held sodas, waters, beers and top-shelf liquors, restocked daily and part of the all-inclusive package. We enjoyed ordering room service and eating at the large dining table, roomy enough for six.

The living room included a sectional sofa with a flat-screen TV; I set up my Netflix account with help from the staff so I could watch anything I pleased during my stay. Natural light flooded in through the floor-to-ceiling glass doors that fully opened to a patio/lounge area and private residents’ pool. The main bedroom boasted a king-sized canopy bed and open-concept bathroom with a dual-sink vanity, walk-in closet, spa tub and a separate stone waterfall shower. The guest room with its high ceilings, large windows and even bigger closet housed two queen-sized beds, more than comfortable for relaxing adults.

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THE STANDARD MIAMI BEACH Reviewed by Stephanie Makowski

PHOTO: ©THE STANDARD MIAMI

Arrival/Check-In: Just a short drive from the vibrant and busy South Beach area lies an unassuming and lush luxury oasis, The Standard Miami Beach. It’s a fantastic option for both the leisure and corporate traveler visiting the Miami area. Don’t be confused by the front sign saying “Lido Spa Hotel”; this is present as part of the architectural conservation ordinances in certain areas of Miami to preserve Art Deco buildings. Once the valet approaches your vehicle and takes care of your baggage, you enter a lobby filled with colorfully toned lounge areas, natural wood accent pieces and plenty of lovely daylight, which is welcoming. All the staff during check-in were exceedingly calm and helpful, and I was escorted through double doors to the garden area in the center of the complex, surrounded by lush greenery and pathways enclosed with tall hedges. This labyrinth is the kind you hope to get lost in, its intricate woven greenery inviting you to explore and relax on the grounds.

Should you be wary of getting lost down the rabbit hole, the property installed charming bright yellow road signs to direct guests to their desired area.

Guest Quarters: My guestroom was a Garden Medium, which included its own private patio with a small table and chairs and a linen curtain to enclose the space if you prefer privacy as you enjoy the fresh air. The room itself felt extremely Zen. The beachy vibes continued throughout the accommodations. A day bed offered a nice area to lay out and read a book or work on your laptop. A queen-sized bed with high-thread-count sheets of crisp white proved comfortable for sleeping. The closet offered complimentary robes and slippers to wear and had a fully stocked minibar with organic snack options and hard/ soft drinks. The bathroom was spacious and the shower felt like an amphitheater. Maybe it was just because I usually sing in the shower, but the large space, waterfall showerhead and premium bath products set the tone for a relaxing experience during a work trip. The hotel strives to take steps toward sustainability and offers programs to not change

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ If you are staying, be sure to reserve space to enjoy the spa amenities.

I found the hamman extremely quiet and grounding. The heated marble relaxed my muscles, and the saunas (wet and dry) offered time to be at peace. I was alone, but I noticed many couples, which makes for a shared experience.

the towels or not change the bed during your stay, should you prefer to do your part for Mother Earth.

Services/Amenities: The overall vibe of the property is “Come as you are.” The guests range from corporate executives to artists, so it hosts sophistication with a trendy twist. The on-premises Lido Bar & Grill offers delicious twists on classic dishes and provides the break area needed after a long day of exploring the city or after a meetingfilled afternoon. I managed to capture the sunset while enjoying an Aperol spritz during my trip and I highly recommend it. The pool is outstanding. I am a huge fan of soundscape music, and the walk-in saltwater pool at night provides quite the peaceful experience. It stays open 24/7, so I went late in the evening and I floated beneath the stars and the blue light surrounding the perimeter of the pool, listening to the music played underwater. What a relaxing moment, so serene.

For those who are not aquatic, there is an excellent fitness studio. The hotel also offers fitness classes and often has guest artists, trainers, musicians who stay at the property and host pop-up performances, classes or shops. If in need of morning java, there is a fabulous coffee shop on site for your caffeine need. If you crave your voice to be heard, the hotel has a solution for that as well, on site: A yellow pay phone directly links the caller to Congress to connect with your representative about issues that matter to you. Overall, the experience lived up to the tag line the staff told me, “We aim to be anything but Standard,” and I enjoyed every minute of it.

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◆ The property is adults only, but is also purrfect for your fur babies.

Pets are welcome! ◆ Each evening, the hotel lights a communal fire pit surrounded by greenery in the private garden. What a cozy way to connect with fellow guests and network.

THE STANDARD MIAMI BEACH 40 Island Ave. Miami Beach, FL 33139 tel 305 673 1717 standardhotels.com

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GAIGE HOUSE + RYOKAN Reviewed by Katie Skrzek

Guest Quarters: We stayed in one of the Ryokan Zen Suites, Creekside, situated along the Calabazas Creek separate from the main building of the property. Lush greenery and bamboo among the suites offered added privacy.

Lining the hallway were two pairs each of Japanese geta slippers (for outdoor use) and zori slippers (for indoor use). The long hallway opened to the bedroom with a sitting space of two small couches and table, fireplace, wall desk and television. WiFi is complimentary.

In addition to a mini fridge and coffee press, there was a traditional cast iron Japanese tea set and a dedicated hot water

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spout for making tea. Guests of the suite also receive a complimentary bottle of saké and mochi ice cream. The room had access to a private patio with chairs overlooking the creek. There was a small interior Zen rock garden atrium between the bedroom and bathroom.

The spacious bathroom included a large granite soaking tub, as well as an open concept shower for two. The dark granite vanity boasted two separate sinks. Towels and robes were large and comfortable. There were also two traditional yukata robes in the closet.

We embraced the Zen vibes and spent most of our stay relaxing in the suite.

Services/Amenities: Our visit was short, though we tried to take advantage of the property as much as possible during our stay.

Our room included complimentary breakfast, which we enjoyed on the patio just off the dining room. The spread included a variety of pastries, yogurt and fruit as well as a selection of hot items. There were to-go cups for hot beverages, so I took my unfinished coffee back to the room.

An on-site spa offers spa treatments as well as meditation classes and private yoga sessions. Unfortunately, our stay was too short to book a treatment. The pool is located next to the spa, complete with lounge chairs. We wanted to take a dip, but ran out of time before our next activity.

Gaige House + Ryokan is a unique and peaceful oasis in the heart of wine country.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Spend time enjoying the outdoor facilities on the property including the pool and patio. ◆ Glen Ellen boasts several award-winning restaurants located less than a mile from Gaige House. ◆ There are numerous nearby wineries. Check with the front desk for recommendations and discounted tasting passes.

Or, stay on site and enjoy the property’s nightly wine and cheese tastings.

GAIGE HOUSE + RYOKAN 13540 Arnold Drive Glen Ellen, California 95442 tel 707 935 0237 thegaigehouse.com

PHOTOS: © GAIGE HOUSE + RYOKAN

Arrival/Check-In: We arrived to Gaige House + Ryokan for our one-night stay several hours before check-in and our room was not yet ready. We decided to explore the area. The luxury boutique property is located in Glen Ellen, California, right in the heart of Sonoma County. We went for a hike at a nearby park, had lunch and enjoyed a tasting at a winery all within a short drive of the property. By the time we were done, our room was ready.

Gaige House + Ryokan embraces traditional Japanese hospitality for a one-of-a-kind California wine country experience with modern Asian details. The helpful front desk attendant gave us a brief property tour as he brought us to our room, pointing out the pool, dining area where complimentary breakfast is served and the spa and meditation area. The property felt both secluded and welcoming.

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FAIRMONT PITTSBURGH Reviewed by Kimberly Krol Arrival/Check-In: After an easy ride across almost the entirety of the state of Pennsylvania, we arrived at the conveniently located Fairmont Pittsburgh, right in the heart of the city’s downtown. We left the car with the valet, and went inside to check in. Despite arriving before check-in time, our room was ready and within just a few minutes in the lightfilled lobby, where a staircase to the second-floor restaurant and meeting space is a design highlight, we were in our guestroom, enjoying the exceptional views of Market Square. As Pennsylvania natives (from the Philadelphia area), we had never been to the city across the state and we were excited to get out and explore.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Grab an alfresco cocktail at the lobbyand street-level Andy’s bar, named in honor of Pittsburgh’s famous Andrews — Warhol and Carnegie. Jazz at Andy’s is a weekly live music series featuring local artists. ◆ Location, location, location! We were able to walk to a number of our Pittsburgh destinations, including PNC Park, the Andy Warhol Museum and the Heinz History Center. Our visit coincided with Pittsburgh’s jazz festival, and all the events were also within walking distance of the hotel.

PHOTOS: © FAIRMONT PITTSBURGH

Guest Quarters: Our spacious (the property boasts the largest hotel rooms in the city) Deluxe King guestroom opened into a short hallway with the bathroom to the left and large closet to the right.

Next to the entrance to the bathroom was a minibar area with coffeemaker, and a delicious plate of treats. A 42-inch, LCD, flat-screen television sat on a dresser across from the comfortable bed, flanked by two nightstands. I appreciated the built-in plugs in the base of the bedside lamps that allowed for quick and easy charging overnight.

An armchair with a small ottoman sat in front of the floor-to-ceiling window, as did a built-in desk unit. A true standout in the room is the view; as we were on one of the building’s highest floors, we even took the opportunity to peek at PNC Park and an ongoing Pirates game from the full-length windows near the elevator.

The guestroom’s warm color palette of burnt oranges, browns and cream continues in the hallways. A variety of suites are also available and WiFi is complimentary.

Services/Amenities: We took advantage of several on-site amenities; our favorite was, not surprisingly, the 6,000-square-foot health club and spa. While we didn’t make use of the fitness center, we did enjoy an indulgent couple’s massage early on Saturday morning.

From the minute we entered, we were greeted by calming scents and peaceful music. It was the perfect way to start our day.

We enjoyed both dinner and brunch at the hotel’s on-site fl.2 restaurant. I quite enjoyed my seafood stew, while my fiancé was

◆ Market Square is steps from Fairmont Pittsburgh; a night market and Sunday morning yoga were hosted events in the square, and Pittsburgh staples like Primanti Bros. and Prantl’s Bakery can be found here as well.

happy he took the server’s recommendation and ordered the crispy mushrooms appetizer. My huevos rancheros delighted at brunch, the perfect send-off before our drive home, and the restaurant’s unique, industrial chic décor and open kitchen perfectly complemented our meals.

OCTOBER 2019

FAIRMONT PITTSBURGH 510 Market St. Pittsburgh, PA 15222 tel 412 773 8800 fairmont.com

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CLARIDGE HOUSE CHICAGO Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

Guest Quarters: Huge. That’s the best word to describe my Claridge House accommodations. The two-room Deluxe King Suite offered more space than I was able to fully utilize during my threenight stay. I entered into a spacious living room area, with a wet bar area to the immediate right. The wall of windows directly in front of

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ I loved the Gold Coast location, tucked away and quiet, but nearby many of Chicago’s most iconic sites, including Michigan Avenue, the lakefront beaches, Lincoln Park Zoo and Second City.

Options for shopping, dining and drinking abound in the neighborhood and its surrounding enclaves. ◆ Claridge House charges a $20 daily urban fee that covers several benefits, including two bottled waters upon check-in, 25 percent off at The Gold Coast Spa (on site), WiFi, access to the business center and fitness center, in-room tablet and streaming services, and more.

me commanded my attention as they offered sweeping views out to Lake Michigan. Off of the living room was a bathroom; while two bathrooms are usually unnecessary for my solo travels, I was pleased to have this second bathroom as I found the layout and shower of the bathroom in the bedroom cramped and a bit uncomfortable. I showered in the bathroom off the living room.

The bedroom area was equally large, with a chair and ottoman near the windows, two nightstands flanking the bed, a TV, a large dressing area with a closet and vanity, and the second bathroom.

Services/Amenities: As you enter Claridge House, you enter Juniper, the on-site restaurant serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, with a bar that stays open late. The front windows open fully, bringing the outside in, and outdoor, street-side seating is also provided. Room service is also available.

Meeting and event space is available, as are an on-site spa and fitness center.

◆ The front desk staff was a highlight of the stay; it felt like each was welcoming you home and was willing to go above and beyond to ensure the stay was top-notch and needs were met.

CLARIDGE HOUSE CHICAGO 1244 N. Dearborn Parkway Chicago, IL 60610 tel 312 787 4980 claridgehousechicago. com

PHOTOS: © CLARIDGE HOUSE CHICAGO

Arrival/Check-In: After a pre-dawn flight from Philadelphia to Chicago, I arrived rather early at Claridge House, which recently underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation and rebranding.

I’ve visited Chicago many times and this was my first opportunity to stay in the sought-after Gold Coast neighborhood. Claridge House’s residential location lends itself well to the hotel’s “our home is your home” philosophy. That feeling is also evidenced by the lobby décor, boasting a few tables and a bar in the on-site Juniper restaurant and a cozy couch and seating area. It feels like entering a friend’s home and grabbing a cup of coffee. Even the front desk leans toward tucked-away and unobtrusive, further evoking the at-home vibe.

A few days later, we had an event in the lobby and those same qualities translated well to the event.

Given my early arrival, my accommodations were not yet ready; in town for a convention, I’d had some packages sent to the hotel and I needed them to head to the convention center and set up the company’s booth. The boxes couldn’t immediately be located, but Cookie, the friendly front desk attendant, didn’t rest until she was able to find them. I appreciated the extra effort on her part.

After setting up and grabbing brunch with colleagues, I arrived back to the hotel in early afternoon to find my room ready.

one on one

FABIO LAZZERINI Chief Business Officer, Alitalia

ventures will lead to better relationships between airlines.

Best career advice you’ve received: The most important parameter in this industry is the people and employee satisfaction.

Satisfied employees lead to happy customers. I’ve been lucky to work with great peers.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Be brave, and be ready to change often. Discuss everything and don’t take anything for granted. Change can be for the good.

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: With all the travel for work, you rarely get time to actually enjoy a trip. My family loves British Columbia, the wildlife, immense spaces and views. All you need is the chance to share memories.

One travel tip you cannot live without Speak a lot with the people, as people make the place. It’s more than looking at a place, it’s about the experiences.

Best advice for business travelers: When you visit for business, your daytime is scheduled. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t something worth visiting at night; many cities are more pleasant to see at night.

PHOTO: © ALITALIA

Name: Fabio Lazzerini Title: Chief business officer Company, city: Alitalia; Rome, Italy Number of employees: 12,000 Recent project: Re-launching Alitalia and coming out of the tough times First job: I worked in the State Department for nine years.

Little-known fact about you: I grew up in the mountains surrounding Lake Como, and my dream career is to start a business in the wine industry.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? The beauty of this industry is it is global and always on the move. The industry will see more and more digitization, which benefits both the airlines and customers. Sustainability is also a focus, and experimentation with biofuel. I think more joint

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Alitalia recently launched service from Washington, D.C. Tell us more about the new route and expansion in the United States. We don’t launch many long-haul routes, so the Washington, D.C., route is important. It was one of the best launches I’ve seen in my career; there’s been a new Alitalia over the past 18 months. Our new strategy focuses on the corporate traveler, but D.C. is also an emerging tourist destination for Europeans. We’ve served the United States, our largest and most important foreign market, for 70-plus years, and it’s a great partnership we look forward to further expanding.

What can premium travelers expect from Alitalia, and its Magnifica business class? Magnifica offers the best of Italian style.

We serve Italian food modernized and a variety of wine. Our lie-flat seats and in-flight entertainment are tops, and our new lounge in Rome debuted a year ago. We also offer timeliness as the most punctual airline in the world, important for corporate travelers.

Alitalia offers unmatched connectivity to Italy, and beyond.

What does your partnership with Delta, KLM and Air France offer travelers? This is more than a strategic partnership; it’s the best way to connect one side of the Atlantic to the other. We offer seamless connectivity. We share the same values as our partner airlines, and continually find ways to make the journey the best it can be.

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one on one | CEO Series

DEBORAH FLINT Chief Executive Officer, Los Angeles World Airports AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: As a teenager, we were returning from a trip to Africa and transited through Amsterdam Schiphol Airport, where I realized just how amazing an airport could be. It served as lifelong inspiration.

One travel tip you cannot live without: Travel looking good — you don’t have to be dressed up, but you should look nice. On Fashion Fridays, we highlight the best-dressed airport passengers on our @FlyLAXAirport Instagram page.

Best advice for business travelers: Go to the airport early. Airports of today enable you to do more, and you should enjoy the experience.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? The future is the smart airport, where technology and travel intertwine. Developments will include biometric boarding, facial recognition during boarding and more. With biometrics, we boarded an Airbus A380 in 20 minutes. Travelers want to know and control their experience, and we’ve thus far seen a positive reaction to biometric testing.

Best career advice you’ve received: Be the best version of yourself you can be. When I started in this business, men were the standard in charge (and, frankly, they still are), so I learned to demonstrate why I should be in the room.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Be flexible. They are likely already flexible individuals, or they wouldn’t have chosen this field. Be a sponge, open to everything.

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How do you incorporate the spirit and culture of Los Angeles into the airport? As the entertainment capital of the world, our Grammy exhibition highlights that status. LA Originals in Terminal 1 is a hip, local brand with an airport outpost, and proceeds from the store benefit the Downtown Women’s Shelter. Our 100 Percent LA selfie walls are created by local artists.

What are your favorite amenities in the airport? A new Shop & Dine capability allows passengers to pre-order food through the website. This will expand to include more retail and dining spaces, and it allows for customization for our travelers. The flylax.com website offers real-time traffic and parking information.

Finnair recently launched direct service from LAX; what other new routes can travelers expect? Air Italy recently launched service to Milan. LAX is the epicenter for Pacific culture, and airlines would like to get more routes to Asia in place here; airlines with service to Vietnam and India want to come to Los Angeles.

PHOTO: © LOS ANGELES WORLD AIRPORTS

Name: Deborah Flint Title: Chief executive officer Company, city: Los Angeles World Airports; Los Angeles, California Number of employees: 3,700 Recent project: We painstakingly removed a pedestrian bridge to pave the way for our Automated People Mover and we broke ground on our Consolidated Rent-A-Car facility.

First job: I was an ice cream server at the Sweet Stop, but I actually lost money because of all the ice cream my little sister ate.

Little-known fact about you: I’m the biggest Golden State Warriors fan in Los Angeles.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Los Angeles World Airports recently broke ground on an Automated People Mover to connect travelers directly to terminals. Tell us about this historic project. We’re anticipating a mid-2023 opening for the Automated People Mover, which will radically transform the airport experience. It will reduce traffic and, when our Intermodal Center opens and rental cars are all located in one place, our airport will offer more mobility choices. There’s a tax measure to invest in rail across Los Angeles, and gates opening in our Tom Bradley international terminal will create smart concourses in mid-2020.

With the World Cup in 2026 and the 2028 Olympics coming to Los Angeles, LAX will be showcased to the world.

technology

TAKE CHARGE Enhance everything you do with these well-designed devices. BY JACK GUY

PHOTOS: © NAIM AUDIO, © SONY, © LOGITECH, © MOPHIE

NAIM AUDIO MU-SO An all-in-one wireless audio system that boasts sound quality as good as its aesthetics, the Mu-so is made for music lovers. Functionality matches this quality, too, with WiFi connectivity over multiple rooms as well as Google Chromecast, Apple AirPlay and Bluetooth connectivity. Choose your playlist using the accompanying Naim app, then sit back and let the music wash over you. $1,599. naimaudio.com

SONY CYBER-SHOT DSC-RX100 VI DIGITAL CAMERA Most people don’t need a digital SLR camera, especially not when this pocket-sized Sony is so impressive. It might fit in your jacket pocket, but the RX-100 can shoot 4K video and images to rival the best cameras out there.

It features a one-inch sensor, wide 24-200mm zoom and fast autofocus, as well as a great image stabilization system to help you get great shots in low light. It’s a top purchase if you are looking to upgrade your camera gear without committing to a bulky DSLR. $1,199.99. sony.com

MOPHIE POWERSTATION Running out of battery is more of a worry when you are on the road, but Mophie provides the solution. This AC universal battery pack proves powerful enough to charge your laptop as well as your phone, with three ports in total: a plug, a USB-C and a USB. It boasts fast-charging capabilities, too, perfect for when you need a quick boost. A 22,000 mAh capacity means you can get up to 15 hours of battery life for a laptop, and the battery pack ships with a fabric cover to protect your devices from scratches in transit. $199.95. mophie.com

LOGITECH MX VERTICAL ADVANCED Anyone who uses a computer regularly — and let’s face it, that’s the majority of people — will appreciate a well-designed mouse. This effort from Logitech is made to reduce muscle strain thanks to its natural handshake position, which improves wrist posture. It’s compatible with both PC and Mac, and the battery lasts months between charges. If hand and wrist fatigue concerns you, this smart-looking device offers one way to protect yourself. $99.99. logitech.com

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wine & spirits

A TUSCAN TRADITION After seven generations, Biondi-Santi continues to make magnificent wines. BY EUNICE FRIED

IT BEGAN IN THE LATE 1800S with Ferruccio Biondi Santi, who built on the work begun by his grandfather, Clemente Santi, and produced the first Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino. Today, seven generations later, the Biondi Santi family still produces the wine at its Tenuta Greppo estate in the Montalcino commune of Tuscany, with the wine still considered among the greatest of Tuscan wines.

Brunello di Montalcino is a product of the Sangiovese Grosso grape, generally recognized as resulting in a long-Lived wine. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello di Montalcino is particularly known to age well into the decades, especially its riserva, the version into which the family puts much of its effort.

The riserva, the Biondi Santis say, represents the heart of the family, and they retained the wine’s style throughout the years, producing its riservas from the family’s oldest vineyards. As might be expected for wines of this caliber, Biondi-Santi is not inexpensive, ranging, depending on the vintage, $150–600 or more.

At a recent dinner with the current head of the wine company, seventh-generation Tancredi Biondi Santi, we began the meal with his Brunello di Montalcino 2013 and 2012. The 2013 displayed the wine’s general finesse and elegance plus a sturdy yet smooth structure and a most appealing taste. Even at this age, it displayed the promise of a long life. The 2012 displayed hints of ripe berries, cherry and herbs and showed balance and refinement.

As the meal progressed, we moved to the riservas. BiondiSanti’s 2011 Riserva proved a magnificent blend of ripe fruit aromas and bright acidity, a wine that can be enjoyed now and will no doubt mature into an even more satisfying wine.

The 2006, a particularly good vintage, displayed the scent of wild berries blended with spice, an exceptionally wellbalanced, delicious wine.

And finally, the extraordinary 1995 — elegant, complex, well-structured, sumptuous and memorable.

As an elder Biondi Santi once said, time can be a wine’s best friend or its worst enemy. Considering the many empty glasses at the end of the dinner, time and Biondi-Santi wines definitely have become the best of friends.

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ages nearly world, aver e th in r n a year. duce e productio t wine pro s in w ge r f o la s e n th to Italy, 5 million

HEART OF THE FAMILY:

Biondi-Santi vineyard (top), bottle of BiondiSanti Riserva 1995, and Tancredi Biondi Santi PHOTOS: © WILSON DANIELS / BIONDI-SANTI

wealth

OUT-OF-STATE OBLIGATIONS

PHOTO: © ALEXANDERSIKOV - DREAMSTIME.COM

Keep current on the requirements of the Supreme Court sales tax ruling.

A LITTLE MORE THAN A YEAR AGO, the Supreme Court, in the closely divided South Dakota v. Wayfair decision, ruled states can require most online retailers and many other sellers to collect sales tax, upending more than two decades of legal precedent. The decision affects businesses such as software vendors, equipment retailers, information sellers and any other business selling goods or services subject to sales tax. In other words, it reaches just about everyone. Whether you own a business or are a consumer, it impacts you in some manner.

You may pay more now for the item purchased or, as a business owner, you are saddled with much more compliance work, needing to file various tax returns in additional states.

The 5–4 vote overturned the 1992 Supreme Court ruling in Quill Corporation v. North Dakota and eliminated the requirement that businesses be physically present in a state before their sales can be taxed, granting states the ability to collect taxes from out-of-state internet retailers. In 1992 Amazon founder Jeff Bezos was still working on Wall Street. In that year mail order sales totaled $180 million, quite

BY KEVIN RYAN, CPA

a bit less than the $453 billion estimated in 2017 e-commerce retail sales. Citing reports Amazon surpassed Wal-Mart as the nation’s leading retailer, the court stated that when it decided Quill, “the court could not have envisioned a world in which the world’s largest retailer would be a remote seller.”

The case centered around a South Dakota law which requires remote sellers with more than 200 annual transactions or $100,000 in sales in South Dakota to collect the state’s sales tax. The court felt the law did not pose an undue burden on interstate commerce because it has a concise revenue or transaction threshold, is not retroactive, and the state has a simplified tax system.

One year later there is still confusion, and states and even cities are passing rules on the subject. Business owners should speak with their advisors and confirm they are collecting the required taxes and filing the correct tax returns. As a business grows or increases transactions in a certain city or state, it may exceed a threshold that will mandate it to file, collect or pay taxes.

As it was only decided by one vote, it seems this decision wasn’t an easy one and people can interpret it differently. Things may change again in the future, so stay tuned. Tax authorities are always looking to increase their tax base, and they have ways of finding those not in compliance. It is in your best interest to follow the law, even if it is frustrating and costly.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice.

Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

OCTOBER 2019

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tours

PICTURE-PERFECT Photography tours make it a snap to get a great shot. BY KRISTY ALPERT

THESE DAYS YOU DON’T always need the most expensive equipment or latest lens to get a quality shot during your travels. Not only have modern smartphones greatly surpassed the standalone pointand-shoot cameras of the past, but also apps and editing software improved so much over the past few years that even a DSLR novice can come home with a frame-worthy shot. The trick to taking a great shot while traveling these days isn’t necessarily about being the best behind your camera; it’s about being in the right place at the right time, a factor more easily identified than experienced.

Photography tours take the guesswork out of planning, timing and logistics. They ensure guests are in the right place and armed with the right skills to return with beautiful images and new skills that will take their photography to the next level. Whether you’re a promising iPhone photographer or an amateur Ansel Adams, photography tours offer a great chance to advance your skills with unrestricted access to a professional photographer while traveling to stunning locations with a small group of like-minded people.

Nature photographer Ralph Paonessa has led workshops and photo trips since 1997, focusing itineraries around birds and wildlife as well as landscape and scenic photography. His work has appeared in Outdoor Photographer, Martha Stewart Living, Nature and Wildlife, Outdoor

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e to th raphy g e o t r o af e e ph seed, tphon p r a a n m s ng S es your loadi t mak Take down y b n tha l o i e t v Add a e . l c ppli mple next i a s g s n i o hot just -edit cing p or ad n photo s a t h . c n e e obj inger ng or our f ntire y e editi f e o v o pe s, rem e swi filter ith th w e p sca HDR

Traveler and many other publications. His main passion, however, lies in sharing what he’s learned over his years as a professional photographer with the three to seven travelers allowed on each trip. Itineraries range from a week-long Eastern Sierra Milky Way workshop in California to an 11-day excursion into the cloud forests of Costa Rica to photograph the colorful hummingbirds and micro subjects that keep the forest buzzing with life.

Amateur photographers can choose from more than 50 photography-centric trips on all seven continents when traveling with National Geographic Expeditions. This branch of the National Geographic Society launched in 1999 as the tangible extension of the company’s 130-year legacy of exploring some of the world’s most remote corners and most interesting cultures. Along with a team of researchers and experts that offers details into each specific destination, the photo tours offered by National Geographic Expeditions also include access to a National Geographic photographer and certified photo instructor.

From river cruises in Bordeaux to a 14-day cruise around Antarctica, guests on board any expedition can participate in onboard photo lectures and workshops as well as ask as many questions as they’d like while venturing out alongside these talented professionals on Zodiac, bicycle or foot.

PHOTO OPS:

Photographer in Botswana (left), and photo taken of an elephant (right)

PHOTOS: © KRISTY ALPERT

spas

HEAVEN ON EARTH Luxuriate at Laniwai Spa at Aulani, A Disney Resort on Oahu. BY ANGELIQUE PLATAS

TROPICAL OASIS: Aulani pools PHOTO: © DISNEY

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WHILE VISITING HAWAI’I, relaxation and tranquil vibes aren’t exactly difficult to come by. Add a 4-star resort of epic proportions and Disney-level attention to detail to the equation, and you’re essentially at the mecca of rest and relaxation. Enter Aulani, A Disney Resort on Oahu. The spa, Laniwai, is a first for a Disney property, but you wouldn’t know it by its level of sophistication and ease of practice.

While lounging on the beach between dips in the lagoon, I couldn’t imagine my day getting much more serene, but my spa appointment at Laniwai was fast approaching. Duty called.

I arrived at the spa about 45 minutes ahead of my scheduled treatment to explore Kula Wai, the only outdoor hydrotherapy garden on the island. The spa recommends guests arrive anywhere between 45 and 60 minutes ahead of their treatment for the full hydrotherapy experience.

After a quick check-in with the front desk, I was led through a muted, almost dreamlike hallway to a small, shallow pool with pebbles lining the bottom. I chose a smooth rock from a collection handed to me by my spa guide and read the word on the rock: “Listen.” I laughed to myself, as I was traveling with my mother and just left her

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minutes before back on the beach — she would have taken way too much satisfaction from this moment. My guide told me to hold the rock in my hand for a brief moment and think about the word and my intentions and gently toss it into the pool, which I did before rounding the corner to two saunas, a locker room and showers to wait for the highly anticipated Kula Wai. Once in my bathing suit and plush robe, I stepped outside into the courtyard and immediately saw what all the fuss was about. A small station allows you to create your own body scrub, choosing scented salts and a small container to keep them in, before you move into the main part of the garden. The tropical oasis featured pools of different temperatures, six rain-style showers and various spaces to lounge in quiet solitude — not something easily achieved at a Disney resort.

I walked along the reflexology path, designed to massage your feet as you move, and made my way to one of the soaking pools. Guests can order healthy meals, juices and smoothies to be deLivered to the courtyard and spend the day hopping from soaking pool to pool, rinsing off under the rainfall showers, dipping in the high-powered jet-stream whirlpools or adding on a vitality pool experience. I chose

to stick with just one pool during my downtime, where a spa representative found me about 10 minutes later to escort me to my treatment.

I followed him to a resting room, found a balmy lounge chair to lie back on and was quickly rewarded with a warmed aromatherapy towel around my neck and shoulders. After a few minutes, I was nearly asleep and would have easily called it a day — no need for a treatment; this will do; I’ll just stay here.

But it was time for my Certified Organic facial, and even my glacial pace as I rose from the lounge chair wasn’t going to stop my aesthetician from pleasantly waiting for me to show me into the next room. We chatted for a few minutes about my skin type, any problem areas I have or special concerns I wanted her to address. She left me alone for a few minutes to get ready and came back with a curated treatment lineup of lotions and potions, tailored to my face and specific skin type.

With my eyes closed and soothing music lulling me into a reverie, I felt lotions, oils, light exfoliants and gentle massaging working the products into my face, neck, shoulders and arms.

The swift, fluid motions of applying, massaging and reapplying left my skin feeling light and refreshed, even while more rounds of application followed. Tropical scents filled the room, which I later learned were mango, plumeria and eucalyptus whole-plant ingredient-based products.

After my 50-minute treatment, my aesthetician applied SPF 25 to my face and asked me to stay out of the sun for about five minutes — it seemed like a fair trade, so I agreed. She left so I could change back into my bathing suit and robe, and I caught a glimpse of my dewy skin in the mirror. My face, shoulders and arms looked like new. The air felt crisper, my skin felt completely refreshed, and I immediately vowed to do better with my at-home skin regime. I later learned the purely organic facial is

designed to balance, soften and naturally moisten your skin while stimulating cells. So … check, check and check.

Peeling myself away from the mirror, I went to collect my things from the locker room, where fellow guests complimented my glowing skin and excitedly discussed their own treatments.

Keeping my five-minutes-out-of-the-sun promise, I took my time sipping mint-infused water and changing back into my beach coverup.

Wandering out of the spa, I found myself at the same pebble pool where another guest was reading her own rock, “Strength.” She tossed the rock in the water and a small splash hit a low-hanging glass raindrop, producing a crystal-like light over the pool. Ripples reverberated over the water and reflected onto the walls, creating a physical manifestation of laniwai, which translates to “freshwater heaven.” See? I listened.

OCTOBER 2019

Laniwai Spa Aulani, A Disney Resort & Spa 92-1185 Ali’inui Drive Kapolei, HI 96707 tel 866 443 4763 disneyaulani.com

NATURAL INGREDIENTS:

Station for creating your own body scrub (top), and rainfall shower (bottom) PHOTOS: © DISNEY

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golf

GRANDDADDY OF THEM ALL Play a round of history at Pine Lakes Country Club in Myrtle Beach. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

SCENIC ROUTE: Hole 2

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

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BUILT IN 1927 AND LISTED on the National Register of Historic Places, Pine Lakes Country Club is considered the granddaddy of courses on the Grand Strand in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina.

Robert White, born in Scotland in 1876 and the first president of the PGA, designed the course, bringing a little of the Old World to the New World during the Roaring Twenties. A massive renovation about 10 years ago included moving some holes and bringing much of the course back to White’s original vision.

Pine Lakes was built in association with the legendary Ocean Forest Hotel, which fell to the effects of the stock market crash of 1929 and never reached its proposed glory. The hotel was imploded in 1970 to make way for luxury condominiums. The course, however, remained and became the focal point as it was altered over the years from 18 holes to 27; the 2008 renovation brought the course back to its original 18 holes.

Craig Schreiner took on the task of redesigning the course, keeping in mind White’s original design. In the new design, Schreiner aimed to keep the Scottish feel of the course, maintain 16 original holes, add two new holes to accommodate the new course entrance, introduce Sea Dwarf Paspalum grass to the layout (it tolerates high-

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salt content irrigation and requires less fertilization), use local bunker sand and contour the course to allow rain channeling. The results make this a must-play for your Myrtle Beach excursion and true Americana golf history.

In the second round of the day, we were ready to have a little fun on this traditional course. I teed up with Bob Hancock, Global Traveler Advisory Board member, and John Ecklund, an executive at IBM in Philadelphia.

HOLE 1 | 343 yards, par 4

Hole 1 was formerly Hole 10, and the redesign raised the fairway 15 feet along with enlarging the pond and the bunkers. From the tee box, drive your ball center right for the best approach to the green.

Errant shots left might make the pond. Two large bunkers guard the front of the largest green on the course. In Pine Lakes fashion, the hole markers, a simple white design, are made out of solid half-inch steel — you won’t be slipping these into your bag for a souvenir! I was able to keep my tee ball center while John shot his ball right, which proved a little challenging to find. Bob went left, but due to unforeseen issues, we all carded a bogey on the first.

HOLE 2 | 195 yards, par 3

Formerly No. 11, this was changed to the second hole during the renovation.

Drive your ball over a small pond into the prevailing wind. The hole lies straight ahead of you and does not have any particular gimmicks. Bunkers guard both the right and the left side of the green on your approach shot. The redesign added a large mound to separate Hole 2 from Hole 1, keeping the tree corridor while relocating the tee box to the left. My shot overdrove the green on the left, causing me to chip up short for a two-putt. Bob caught the right center trap and came out cleanly, while John simply had a string of “issues,” carding a double bogey.

HOLE 3 | 463 yards, par 4

Hole 12 became Hole 3 in the significant redesign, which also turned this former par 5 into a par 4. The course architects liken this hole design to the famed Augusta National, with pine trees lining the fairway and a pond placed next to the green. I placed my drive slightly left of center to take out most of the pond for my approach shot. During the redesign, this pond was enlarged and moved closer to the green, and this is where I landed (close but not in!). Architect Schreiner was not our friend that day, but I was able to sneak away with a bogey. Bob and John tried to place their ball over the pond to the green, shaping it around the left side to roll up to the green. One succeeded; one did not.

HOLE 10 | 554 yards, par 5

Walking off of the front nine and carding the low score of the threesome (43), I was feeling confident. Hole 10, previously Hole 1, is a long par 5. The new design added a new forward tee, raised the landing area three feet and added a large quantity of soil to the fairway. This is a drive hole dream: John, Bob and I slammed away for three decent drives center (our adrenalin was high after seeing a large black snake cross the path). My second shot, with my trusty 3-wood, resulted in a fine position. John ran into some obstacles, knocking around in the trees. Three bunkers protect the green: an approach bunker right of the green and a bunker on either side. The green was restored to it original size and shape but raised an entire foot from the fairway. This made Bob’s approach short, and double bogey was the best score carded.

HOLE 17 | 415 yards, par 4

Hole 17, formerly Hole 6, is a classic. White designed it with a little feel of the Old Course added. The redesign extended the fairway and removed a blind water hazard while extending the pond in front of the tee box. I brought my “A” game and drove

my ball to the center left of the fairway (my teammates sprayed their shots to my left and right). Pines extend left in a peninsulalike shape, potentially blocking balls right to the green. The approach and green side bunkers were restored to the original design and deepened — much to the chagrin of my group! This green was also enlarged and moves slightly south to its original size, shape and design. I took a par, a monumental feat.

HOLE 18 | 450 yards, par 4

On Hole 18, formerly the second hole, the wind remains a huge factor, as it is ever changing its direction. From the tee box, you can see the clubhouse on the left side of the green. Schreiner raised the landing area to help soften shots landing and keep them in play and also extended the pond that lies just right of the landing area to catch errant shots. The approach area was also extended at the right and rear of the green, while Schreiner returned the green to the original White design. A plethora of swales and moguls make for interesting lies for your shots. Bob swung away and landed left center, then reached the green with a wood; this is a tough green to reach in two. Bob parred the closing hole, leaving me and John with bogeys. But it reminded me of John Ecklund’s shot (10 years ago) from the pond, which was priceless … and muddy!

OCTOBER 2019

‘A’ GAME:

Hole 17 (top); and Gene Sarazen plaque (bottom) PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Pine Lakes Country Club 5603 Granddaddy Drive Myrtle Beach, SC 29577 tel 877 283 2122 pinelakes.com

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chefs

CULINARY STARS Michael Ellis oversees a constellation of celebrated chefs for Jumeirah Group. BY KIMBERLY KROL

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I think almost everywhere I have visited inspired me in some way. Whether it is fermentation in Seoul, chawanmushi custard in Tokyo or open fire-cooked paella in Valencia, there are an almost unlimited number of cooking styles, ingredients and techniques I have admired. Our job at Jumeirah is to take these different elements and incorporate them into our menus in a way that is accessible and popular with our diverse guests from around the world.

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? I was in awe of Joël Robuchon; his brilliant technique, sense of flavor, texture and presentation were truly unique. He trained and inspired a whole generation of chefs from around the globe. Of course now we have two of his chefs (Chef Francky Semblat, most recently at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Shanghai, and Chef Kim Joinié-Maurin, most recently at Joël Robuchon in Singapore) working with us at Burj Al Arab, which is hugely exciting. Working alongside Chef Kasper Kurdahl, most recently at Le Chalet de La Foret in Belgium, these new chefs (and indeed the teams they lead) personify our ambitious plans for fine dining at Jumeirah Group perfectly.

WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? It was no doubt my first boss in France when I was working as a commis cook in Paris many years ago, Chef Andre. He taught me whatever you do in the kitchen, whether peeling potatoes, turning artichokes or making a béarnaise sauce, attention to detail and no cutting corners were the keys to success.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? I have many favorites, and my top 10 would include Paris, Tokyo, Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok, San Sebastián, Seoul, New York and London … but I could go on and on!

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? There is no question sustainability, the reduction of food waste and one-use plastic and other packaging is going to become an even bigger issue than it is today.

JUMEIRAH GROUP jumeirah.com

PHOTOS: © JUMIERAH GROUP

AS JUMEIRAH GROUP LOOKED ahead to the future and its goal to further pursue its position as a leading international luxury hospitality brand, the company knew offering elevated dining experiences was one way to achieve its mission. And with that goal in mind, Jumeirah Group created the position of chief culinary officer and tapped Michael Ellis, the former managing director of the Michelin Guide, to fill the vacancy.

With Ellis at the helm, the luxury hotel group focuses on delivering culinary sensations like no other, starting at the iconic Burj Al Arab Jumeirah. The property recently announced the addition of three new chefs to its current collection of 10 celebrity restaurants. The three — Francky Semblat, Kim Joinié-Maurin and Kasper Kurdahl — enjoy a combined total of seven Michelin stars.

The future is bright for Jumeirah Group as the brand prepares to dazzle and delight taste buds around the globe.

PHOTOS: © ERICH MARTIN, © BILL LODZINSKI, © JEKURANTODISTAJA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MIROSLAV LISKA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © HENDRA SU - DREAMSTIME.COM, © KEVIN CARDEN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © YASSER OGANDO,

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New England Aquarium, The Boston Sail Loft, Faneuil Hall Marketplace, Salem Wax Museum & Haunted Neighborhood and Ropes Mansion were all a part of a mini-vacation for Global Traveler assistant editor Erich Martin.

Global Traveler director of sales Bill Lodzinski traveled to Hangzhou, immersing himself in the world of Chinese teas.

This amazing library in Helsinki was the nation’s “birthday gift” to the people during its 101st anniversary of independence. #NationalBookLoversDay

Follow GT’s Instagram, @globaltravelermag, for the best #snapshots from around the globe.

Connect with us on LinkedIn to stay informed on the world of business travel.

Visit one of the most scenic lighthouses in the world. #NationalLighthouseDay

Multiple hotels are set to open in Japan this fall.

Waldorf Astoria Beijing will host space-themed afternoon tea through Nov. 22.

Follow us on Pinterest, or choose your favorite GT boards at pinterest.com/global traveler.

Follow our Twitter account, @GTmag, for the latest #travelnews and #traveldeals.

@thepeninsulamanila is set to receive phased refurbishments and refreshments as guestrooms, suites and more are overhauled to provide a more luxurious experience.

LATAM Airlines Group gave a group of 50 astronomers and enthusiasts from 10 countries the chance to experience a total solar eclipse on a Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner. The result was eight minutes of total darkness and more.

From educational panels for the business travel industry and breathtaking architecture to a rooftop party at the iconic The Godfrey Hotel with great food and even greater people, it’s safe to say my first visit to Chicago was a success.

cruising

POP CRUISES Set sail with your favorite icons of popular culture.

BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

POP ICONS ADD ZEST TO ANY CRUISE, so it’s no wonder cruises with popular-culture themes are proliferating. In fact, pop culture now rules the deck on every voyage with Disney Cruises and its roaming crew of stars from Pixar, Marvel, Disney and Star Wars productions.

Disney’s deck parties, 3-D movies and Broadwaystyle shows are designed for families, as are the staterooms, which feature split baths and extra space and storage. On select 2020 itineraries in the Caribbean, passengers can enjoy a Star Wars Day at Sea featuring a throng of Star Wars characters; and on many five-night cruises from Miami, a Marvel Day at Sea brings aboard stunt shows, movie marathons and a chance to cavort with the likes of Spider-Man, Iron Man and Captain America. Disney Cruises to Alaska are headlined by Pixar Pals at Sea programs put on by the characters of Toy Story, The Incredibles and Monsters, Inc. and highlighted by an all-hands-ondeck Super Hero Shuffle.

Norwegian Cruise Line fords a similar stream of popular art with a special round-trip New Yorkto-Bermuda Comicon cruise May 3–10, 2020, on Norwegian Encore. Passengers will sail with a host of legendary comic-book and animated video heroes in full regalia, topped off by a three-day party in Bermuda.

Another major aspect of pop culture is music, and cruise lines are ready to rock, especially Royal Caribbean.

Its Rock Legends Cruise VIII, Feb. 27–March 2, 2020, from Fort Lauderdale brings aboard 20 artists to perform some 60 shows in three venues. Among the top draws: Roger Daltrey, Uriah Heep, Elvin Bishop, UFO and Johnny Lang. That’s followed by The 80s Cruise, March 8–15, 2020, on Royal Caribbean’s Explorer of the Seas, a round-trip Miami voyage featuring concerts day and night with the likes of Berlin, Patty Smyth and the B-52s.

Fans of country music are in luck, too, with a special Caribbean cruise Jan. 25–Feb. 1, 2020, on Holland America Line’s Nieuw Amsterdam. There will be line dancing, cornhole tournaments (bean-bag tossing) and meet-and-greet opportunities with the country stars who perform along the way, including the Oak Ridge Boys, Randy Owen, Tracy Lawrence and Pam Ellis.

There’s even a pop cruise for fans of classical music.

Ponant Cruises lures members of the Boston Pops aboard to celebrate American composers on a Montréal-to-Boston sailing of Le Champlain Oct. 19–27, 2020. This cruise features concerts, chamber music and piano works by Gershwin, Copeland, Barber and Ellington.

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ns, ion cs fa i m a leg n. o c d r d a n a o r-M TV a rings ab pide vie, b o S m y o l t lar tain ouse regu nter ey M ises k To e u c i r ey C om M Disn cons, fr i op of p

POWER OF THE FORCE:

Disney Cruises’ Star Wars Day at Sea PHOTOS: © DISNEY

And finally, for pop TV devotees, there’s a Golden Girls at Sea cruise aboard the Celebrity Infinity, complete with a cheesecake party, bar crawl, bingo binge, fancy-dress fest and karaoke night at the Rusty Anchor. This pop party at sea sets sail Feb. 24, 2020, with stops in Key West and Cozumel.

feature

Things That Go Bump in the Night Ghosts, vampires and spirits lure travelers seeking bone-chilling thrills.

CREATURES OF THE NIGHT: Haunted History Tours’ New Orleans Vampire Tour PHOTO: © HAUNTED HISTORY

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ON A DARK, MOONLESS NIGHT, my friend and I joined a small group as we quietly walked the narrow cobblestone streets of New Orleans, listening to our guide tell tales of the sights around us. She pointed to shadowed, curtained windows, some even shuttered, and described unimaginable acts that took place behind them. She shared stories of horses and wagons rolling along these same streets, carrying the dead. She talked of “people” said to have been spotted for generations.

OCTOBER 2019

BY SUSAN B. BARNES

Our group hung onto our guide’s every word as we crisscrossed the city during Haunted History Tours’ New Orleans Vampire Tour. Afterward, over drinks, we recounted the stories we had heard, imagining what had happened in the bar where we sat … across the street … in our hotel … and what spirits and otherworldly creatures may lurk about.

Imagine our surprise the next morning as, snuggled in the comfort of our beds in the hotel room, we tuned the

TV to the Travel Channel only to see our guide from the night before telling some of those same vampire stories to a national audience.

New Orleans is considered the most haunted city in the United States, “a place where the dead refuse to rest” and which voodoo queens, professed vampires and other practitioners of the mystical arts call home. This city embraces its darker side and “welcomes everyone: the living, the dead and those souls in between.”

In fact, one can enjoy myriad vampire, ghost and cemetery tours yearround, and New Orleans & Company even developed a haunted walking itinerary that highlights spots throughout the city where visitors are most likely to encounter spirits.

When asked about New Orleans’ appeal to those who seek haunted destinations, Sidney Smith, owner, Haunted History Tours, explained, “The earliest French settlers were warned by the Native Americans not to build a city here because the area was cursed. Violent death and strong emotion contribute to hauntings and paranormal activity, and we’ve had no shortage of it.

“A lot of people say, ‘Rest in peace,’” he continued. “But what if you can’t?”

In February the Travel Channel surveyed more than 2,000 people from across the United States about their haunted travel interests and shared its findings in the “Open Mind Strategy/ Travel Channel Quarterly Trend Report.” Through the survey, researchers discovered 51 percent of those asked agree they have an interest in traveling somewhere known for being haunted or having paranormal activities, and when queried, 58 percent agreed they believe in ghosts.

Getting back to vampires, Dracula may be a fictional character dreamt up in Bram Stoker’s mind, but though the author never visited Romania himself, Dracula’s castle was based upon a description of the very real

REAL AND IMAGINED: Bran Castle in Transylvania exterior (top) and secret passageway PHOTOS: © VANIA DOBRINOVA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © TRIFUION - DREAMSTIME.COM

OCTOBER 2019

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CHILLED TO THE BONE: The Catacombs of Paris PHOTOS: © LES CATACOMBES DE PARIS / AMBROISE TEZENAS

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Bran Castle in Transylvania. In his novel, Stoker wrote Dracula’s castle sat “… on the very edge of a terrific precipice … with occasionally a deep rift where there is a chasm [with] silver threads where the rivers wind in deep gorges through the forests.” Voilà — Bran Castle. Last year, the castle remained the No. 1 attraction in all of Romania, welcoming more than 835,000 curious guests.

Embracing its vampiric legacy, Bran Castle will host a Halloween party Nov. 2.

The Catacombs of Paris have been an attraction since they first opened to the public (by appointment only) 210 years ago, in 1809. In 2018 480,000 people visited the world’s largest ossuary, or room in which the bones of dead people rest. To reach the ossuary, visitors must descend 113 steps into the cool tunnels, where they follow a nearly one-mile path, flanked with bones and skulls on either side. It takes approximately an hour to wind past the remains of the dead before climbing 112 steps back to fresh air.

Taking another look at Travel Channel’s “Open Mind Strategy” report, 53 percent of respondents indicated they don’t believe in ghosts but might get freaked out in a haunted house. If it’s spooks they’re looking for, myriad options await across the United States, from one-off haunted houses to theme parks completely transformed to add fright to the night.

The haunted house industry takes loads of frightful imagination and surprises to catch even the professionals off guard. That is just what The Darkness in St. Louis did when it opened its doors to the Haunted House Association during an annual trade show in March. It is so frightening, the association deemed The Darkness “one of the best haunts in the entire world.”

Halloween Horror Nights returns to Universal Orlando for another chilling run; it received the Best Halloween Event Golden Ticket Award for 11 years from Amusement Today. Those on the West Coast need not fear — Halloween Horror Nights will terrify park goers at Universal Studios Hollywood, too. Both parks feature Stranger Things from Netflix, and

taking a cue from the era of the popular series, “the ’80s return with an all-new vengeance, bringing with them some of the biggest frights from the era.”

Universal Orlando and Universal Studios Hollywood will each give park goers bone-chilling thrills with 10 all-new haunted houses full of terror; one of the houses at each park features seasons 2 and 3 of Stranger Things. Each of the two parks also features five scare zones and live entertainment. Halloween Horror Nights, which frights on select nights through Nov. 2 in Orlando and Nov. 3 in Hollywood, promises “no escape from the decade that just won’t die.”

Seeking out thrills and chills is not just for an older crowd, however. This year, Mickey’s NotSo-Scary Halloween Party began mid-August at Walt Disney World in Orlando, and the spooktacular party continues on select nights through Nov. 1. Kids can dress up as their favorite Disney characters or create their own characters; go trickor-treating throughout the park (teal-colored treat bags are available for those with allergies); mingle with Disney characters dressed in their “hauntcouture”; watch spellbinding performances; and enjoy a new fireworks spectacular complete with state-of-the-art projection effects, lasers and lighting.

On the West Coast, Disneyland and Disney California Adventure Park at Disneyland Resort in Anaheim, California, get in on the fiendish fun, too. Spooky décor, characters in their Halloween costumes and entertainment that will live on in dreamland can be found throughout the two parks through Oct. 31.

“Haunted tourism is a very real and often overlooked industry,” explained Amy Bruni, co-host of Travel Channel’s Kindred Spirits and owner of boutique paranormal travel company Strange Escapes. “Allegedly, haunted sites are noticing more and more that their ghosts are actually attracting guests — and interest — more than ever before. This has everything to do with the popularity of paranormal television and horror films and also the fact that ghosts are a belief system for many. They [people] want to know more, and sometimes the idea of experiencing something spooky and then being able to leave is the perfect opportunity to do so.”

SPOOKY SURPRISES: Frightfully Fun Parade during Oogie Boogie Bash at Disney California Adventure Park (top), and Haunted Mansion at Disneyland Park PHOTOS: © DISNEYLAND RESORT

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airline update | AEROMEXICO

Going Global Aeromexico expands its network, upgrades its fleet and improves the passenger experience. BY MARK CHESNUT IT WOULD BE DIFFICULT TO WRITE the history of North American aviation without mentioning Aeromexico. With roots that go back to 1934, this Mexico City-based carrier in recent years has built its presence even more on the international front while also upgrading its passenger experience and expanding its offerings to appeal to new markets.

As Mexico’s largest airline (and the only one to serve Europe and Asia), Aeromexico is strategically well-poised for growth. Currently, the carrier fields an average of 600 daily flights to 43 destinations within Mexico as well as to 50 international destinations in the United States, Canada, Central and South America, the Caribbean, Europe and Asia. And there’s more to come.

This year alone, the company added its fifth destination in

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Europe, with three weekly non-stop flights to Barcelona (BCN) from Mexico City International Airport, using the Boeing 787 Dreamliner.

In addition, Aeromexico debuted new service linking Mexico City with Guayaquil (GYE), with three weekly frequencies, and removed a technical layover in Monterrey to convert its service between Mexico City and Seoul Incheon International Airport to a timesaving, non-stop experience.

In addition to strategic route growth, Aeromexico also fine-tuned its fleet. In 2012 Grupo Aeromexico — which includes the mainline carrier as well as cargo, Aeromexico Connect and other divisions — committed to the largest investment of any Mexican airline in history by signing a contract to acquire 100 aircraft from Boeing, valued at some $11 billion.

Just last year, the company finalized its “fleet simplification strategy,” resulting in just four types of aircraft from two manufacturers: the Boeing 787 Dreamliner, Boeing 737 and Embraer 170 and 190. This rationalization resulted in greater efficiency in everything from maintenance to crew training, according to airline executives.

Today the modernized fleet of 130 aircraft is responsible for a decreased carbon footprint, part of the company’s strong environmental policy that focuses on the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions. The 787 Dreamliner, in particular, proves an especially remarkable tool in the company’s quest to become greener. Aeromexico, in fact, reduced fuel

consumption and CO2 emissions by 23 percent and noise pollution by as much as 60 percent, thanks largely to the efficiency of the Dreamliner. The aircraft’s General Electric GEnx-1B engines comprise part of the winning formula, with greater efficiency than many engines and composite materials that allow for optimal operation and minimal maintenance costs.

The allure of a modern and efficient fleet is more than simply advanced technology, of course. It’s also about the ability to offer passengers a better overall travel experience, with greater comfort and more amenities. Aeromexico launched its 21st-century initiative to improve the onboard experience back in 2010, and the program continues to evolve.

Passengers will notice some of the biggest improvements on long-haul flights to and from Europe and Asia. Among the changes, the airline introduced a dynamic new menu on flights between Mexico City and Europe, including Madrid (MAD), Paris (CDG), London (LHR) and Amsterdam (AMS). The new culinary offerings, redesigned seasonally four times a year, are the work of Chef Elena Reygadas, a renowned culinary artist and cookbook author known for her award-winning Mexico City restaurant, Rosetta.

Even passengers in the economy cabin on trans-Atlantic flights will benefit from upgraded menus, with three food courses that vary

by the time of day and emphasize balanced and healthy cuisine to help travelers feel better during and after long flights.

The new menus on Europe flights complement other culinary enhancements introduced in December 2018 on other international and select domestic flights in Clase Premier from Mexico City. Aeromexico worked with catering company Gate Gourmet to create those new food options, with input from chefs Christian Hallowell, Gottfried Menge and Dennis Purchet. The seasonally rotating menus include a fourth meal choice on flights to and from Buenos Aires (EZE), Santiago de Chile (SCL) and São Paulo (GRU) as well as handmade pasta and stone oven-baked bread on flights to and from the United States, Canada and Latin America. In addition, the airline promises more flavorful meat, fish and poultry, thanks to new sous vide preparation techniques.

In addition to culinary improvements, Aeromexico upgraded its technological offerings, with free messaging through WhatsApp, iMessage and Facebook Messenger aboard its Boeing 737 and 787 aircraft. In September the company also expanded its in-flight entertainment options with the addition of content from Universal Studios to a roster that already included Warner Bros., Paramount and Fox. Passengers can now sit back and watch entertainment like National Geographic as part of an impressive jump from 300 to

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SOARING SUCCESS:

Aeromexico Dreamliner (far left), and (clockwise from upper left) Salon Premier, cuisine, new uniforms and onboard entertainment PHOTOS: © AEROMEXICO

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MODERN FLEET:

Aeromexico Boeing 787-9 Clase Premier (top), and 737-800 Clase Premier (bottom) PHOTOS: © AEROMEXICO

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400 programs available for in-flight viewing.

Observant frequent flyers may also take note of a new look in the aisles; this year the airline debuted a new style for its cabin crew, featuring clothing by Mexican fashion designer Lorena Saravia, whose consumer designs stock several of Mexico’s top department stores as well as her own flagship shop in Mexico City. The crisply designed new uniforms feature an attractive shade of navy blue with black highlights but discontinue the long-running hats for female flight attendants.

On the ground, passengers can now make use of a relaunched website, new airport check-in kiosks, a redesigned mobile app and new customer service available through chatbot on both Facebook and WhatsApp.

OCTOBER 2019

Travelers looking for more comfort on the ground take note: Aeromexico this year debuted its newest Terraza Premier by Heineken at Monterrey International Airport, the second such VIP lounge created in partnership with Heineken. The new venue, located in Terminal B, accommodates 54 people and is accessible for a fee or for free with some front-of-cabin fare classes and for certain credit card holders.

As with most carriers, global alliances with industry powerhouses are crucial to Aeromexico’s success. The most high-profile partnership, of course, is with Atlanta-based Delta Air Lines.

In 2019 the company celebrated its second year of the Delta-Aeromexico joint cooperation agreement which allows for coordinated transborder flights between the United States and Mexico. Delta’s 49 percent equity share in Aeromexico is also part of the agreement, as are co-located airport teams in key cities in both countries.

Today the two airlines operate within the same terminal at 12 airports, with more than 1,100 combined transborder flights every week and more than 14.4 million passengers carried May 2017–April 2019; passenger numbers doubled for transborder traffic in the second year.

Aeromexico also benefits from its role as a founding member of SkyTeam, the alliance that now counts 19 airlines among its members, as well as from its additional codeshare partnerships for flights with a variety of carriers including Avianca, Copa, EL AL Israel Airlines and GOL Linhas Aéreas.

This year Aeromexico expanded its reach even further with new codeshares with Air Europa for service to European destinations including Asturias (OVD), Seville (SVQ), Stockholm (ARN) and Athens (ATH).

Aeromexico has made a wide array of improvements and strategic changes to its scheduled airline service in a quest to lure passengers. But a recent partnership with Aerolineas Ejecutivas aims to attract an entirely different type of traveler: those who want to fly alone.

The result of this new alliance, called Aeromexico Private Jets, offers on-demand charters with a fleet of five different types of jets, ranging from the six-passenger Beechcraft Premier A1 to the 12-passenger Bombardier Challenger 605.

The goal of this new service, according to Aeromexico, is to appeal to customers and companies who need to maximize their time through flexible and convenient access to customizable flights and a dedicated fleet of aircraft.

The service also offers an Aeromexico Jet Card, designed for travelers who use private jet service on a recurring basis.

The prepaid card allows members to book flight hours and choose aircraft type with as little as eight hours of advance notice. Cardholders also enjoy benefits like upgrades and discounts on Aeromexico’s scheduled flights, as well as the ability to book flights with Delta Private Jets.

3.

mice | JERUSALEM

Modern Moves

History and high tech attract meetings and events to Jerusalem. BY RON BERNTHAL ATMOSPHERIC: Private dinner at the Art Garden at The Israel Museum PHOTO: © ISRAEL MUSEUM JERUSALEM

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DURING ITS LONG HISTORY, Jerusalem has been attacked 52 times, captured and recaptured 44 times, besieged 23 times and destroyed twice. The oldest part of the city was settled in the fourth millennium B.C., making Jerusalem one of the oldest cities in the world. A city that has stood for at least 3,000 years in the ancient walled area, a sacred site revered by three religions: Judaism, Christianity and Islam.

Although religious politics seem to dictate almost everything that happens in the city, from municipal infrastructure projects and residential housing developments to security concerns and social interactions, Jerusalem offers MICE planners and business travelers 5-star hotels, stateof-the-art meeting venues, delicious Middle Eastern cuisine

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and profound museums. Add to these a stunning landscape bathed in a light so ethereal it leaves even the most jaded traveler with a life-lasting memory.

In the past decade, a vibrant, high-tech startup environment emerged in Jerusalem and throughout Israel that equals that of any country in the world. Israel boasts more companies listed on the tech-heavy NASDAQ stock exchange than any country outside the United States, except for China. In 2017 Intel purchased one of Israel’s high-tech firms, Mobileye, a leader in software for autonomous driving, for more than $15 billion; and Google bought the Israeli navigation firm Waze a few years before that.

An average of 600 new startups establish businesses every year in Israel, many in Jerusalem, and 307 multinational R&D centers reside in — or within an hour’s drive of — Jerusalem, including sites for Intel, Google, IBM and Apple. According to Startup Genome LLC, which monitors more than 1 million companies across 150 world cities, Jerusalem currently boasts 600–900 startups, averaging about $2.6 billion in total revenue.

“Our international recognition is through the roof,” said Itzik Ozer, senior business development director, Jerusalem Development Authority. This spike in innovation was well-planned, with the JDA working with local entities to design a six-year plan to make sure Jerusalem cultivates its own startup footprint. “We realized we need a new outlook. Our talent in Jerusalem is unparalleled, especially within our universities. So we wanted to tap into that talent and have it translate to the high-tech sphere.”

Jerusalem’s thriving startup environment is so successful it now rivals Tel Aviv, 40 miles away, long considered Israel’s major financial and business center. Ozer predicts the 18,000 people currently working in Jerusalem startups will double in the coming years. This means international conferences are booking Jerusalem meeting venues with increasing frequency and are not limited to high-tech firms. Last year Jerusalem hosted the American Jewish Committee Global Forum and March of the Nations among 180 international conferences booked in 2018 alone.

“Jerusalem is a high-tech and bio-med hub in Israel and is highly respected around the world. As mayor, I will continue to do everything I can to support this growth,” said Jerusalem Mayor Moshe Lion.

The International Convention Center, known locally as Binyanei Ha’uma, was established in 1950 as part of a plan for the construction of a new governmental center. It has served as the city’s major site for international conferences, trade shows and other events ever since. After several expansions and renovations, it now offers 130,000 square feet of event space, with 27 conference halls accommodating more than 10,000 attendees.

Arriving via the highway from Ben Gurion International Airport (about 45 minutes’ drive), visitors find easy access to the ICC, located at the entrance to the city. The 397-room Crowne Plaza Hotel, the closest hotel to the ICC, lies just a two-minute walk away.

Formerly the Jerusalem Hilton, it was once the “go-to” hotel in West Jerusalem for visiting politicians and VIPs. The 4-star hotel proves popular with convention center attendees and vendors, families and budget travelers. The property, offering dining, indoor and outdoor swimming pools and eight meeting rooms, sits within walking distance of the city’s Red Line light rail system.

Numerous deluxe properties offer meeting and dining venues and upscale amenities, including the iconic King David Jerusalem Hotel, the flagship property of Dan Hotels Corp., Israel’s largest luxury hotel chain, launched in 1948 when the State of Israel was established.

The King David features 233 guestrooms, some overlooking the Old City. On-site dining includes La Regence, one of Israel’s finest restaurants, and Kings Garden, located within the outdoor gardens. The King David provides business travelers with wireless internet and private meeting/function space for up to 400 persons, complete with large electronic presentation screens.

Hilton’s 225-room Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem also occupies a choice location in the heart of the city, with large

MEMORIALS:

The Holocaust History Museum (top) and Hall of Names (bottom) PHOTOS: © YAD VASHEM

UNIQUE VENUES

THE ISRAEL MUSEUM Groups can take advantage of meeting space at the Israel Museum, ranked among the world’s leading art and archaeology museums. The Museum is also home to the Modern, one of the best restaurants in the country for traditional Jerusalem cuisine. The Modern can accommodate up to 400 seated guests, and larger groups can expand into the museum area. The restaurant’s design, its location inside the museum and the views of the Valley of the Cross and the Knesset (Israel’s Parliament) all contribute to the Modern’s special ambience. www.imj.org.il/en

guestrooms and two restaurants. Providing eight flexible meeting rooms and a Grand Ballroom accommodating up to 600, the property lies just a 10-minute walk to the Old City’s Jaffa Gate entrance and a 12-minute taxi ride to ICC. During summer, the hotel opens its rooftop Garden Terrace where hotel guests and the public enjoy cocktails and tapas.

The 384-room, 11-story David Citadel Hotel — designed

by Israeli-Canadian architect Moshe Safdie as a U-shaped structure — features a glass-domed public lobby and suites overlooking the Old City and the Tower of David. It opened in 2001, offering deluxe rooms, excellent dining facilities, an expansive spa, meeting venues, a plush executive lounge and an outdoor garden terrace with a panoramic Old City view.

Another luxurious property in the Mamilla neighborhood designed by Safdie, the Mamilla Hotel sits on the site of a water reservoir built by King Herod during the Second Temple period (first century B.C.). The 194-room hotel offers beautifully designed rooms, plenty of colorful art objects and meeting space. The Rooftop Lounge & Restaurant offers an Old City view and lunch and dinner options of grilled meat and fish and cold salads. It accommodates private groups up to 600 in the ballroom, 150 in the rooftop restaurant.

OLMAYA Located in Jerusalem’s East Talpiot neighborhood on a hill overlooking the Old City, Olmaya opened in 2014 for private and corporate events. Accommodating 300–800 attendees, depending on season and event type, the compound includes the Glass Pergola, a transparent structure with a retractable roof, from which landscaped gardens and oLive trees are visible. The Inside Arches preserves the original Gothic space, and a stone and copper tabun oven can be used for Middle Eastern cuisine. olmaya.co.il

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9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet.

Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle.

Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25).

The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million.

Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center.

Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background.

Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300.

While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world.

You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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BUSINESS destinations

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OSAKA

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ATLANTA

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LONDON

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MEXICO CITY

LEISURE destinations

64 PHOTOS : © SBORISOV - DREAMSTIME.COM, © IRENE RAWLINGS

TALLINN

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ABU DHABI

all lie s t r o p air d, Luton d rgroun n e a d n k c U n twi Londo w, Ga o e r h h t t a ia He hour v e n o n be. withi he Tu t s a known

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GREAT WALL OF CHINA

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THE CARIBBEAN

destination one | OSAKA

Staying Power Through historic ups and downs, Osaka remains a formidable economic and cultural force. BY ANGELIQUE PLATAS EXPANSE OF THE CITY: Umeda District cityscape PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE DREAMSTIME.COM

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ONE DESTINATION APPEARS on nearly every avid and leisure traveler’s bucket list: Japan. Luckily for business travelers, it’s also a mecca for big industries including agriculture, technology, textiles and manufacturing. Regions that once employed whole towns of coal miners, fishermen and farmers now produce electronics, automobiles, forging machinery, textiles, pharmaceuticals and consumer goods.

As one of the country’s top three cities, next to Kyoto and

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Tokyo, Osaka is one of a kind within the country. With a storied reputation for rising up, moving forward and adapting when adversity strikes, it boasts a neighborhood feel along with impressive big-city stature and opportunity.

Osaka’s reputation as a hub for outsourced goods and an incredible trade economy is a relatively new concept, as Japan was secluded from the Western world for most of its history. The country only opened to U.S. trade in 1853, after 200 years of warming up to the idea.

Nestled along the Seto Inland Sea and Osaka Bay, Osaka’s positioning with easy river access for water transportation made it a dream-scape for trade. Asian travelers and businessmen have ventured to Osaka’s shores since the fifth and sixth centuries, when the prosperous prefecture represented the political heart of Japan.

Visitors flocked from Korea and China, bringing new ideas such as Buddhism, innovative forging techniques, new technology and manufacturing skills. While Buddhist temples popped up in Osaka and Kyoto and women’s culture ascended on a steady climb, the city ventured into the Heian period.

Factions arose, conflicts erupted and hundreds of years went by while the

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT+9 Phone code: Country code: 81 City code: 66 Currency: Japanese yen Key industries: Agriculture, automobiles, manufacturing electronics and consumer technology

LODGING

THE RITZ-CARLTON, OSAKA Enjoy a stylish stay with bayside and city views, four dining establishments, a spa and a cigar bar. Hanagatami offers an authentic Japanese dining experience with seasonal options of local classics.

2 Chome-5-25 Umeda, Kita-ku $$$$ THE ST. REGIS OSAKA The “best address in Osaka” offers a prime location and traditional Japanese design, using natural elements and luxury European touches. The rooftop beer garden blends Italian, French and Japanese style with all-you-can-drink pricing.

3-6-12 Honmachi, Chuo-ku $$$$

city experienced economic booms, destruction from war, rebuilding periods and political changes followed by times of peace — all bringing Osaka into the 14th and 15th centuries as a stronghold of Japanese culture and political influence.

The city proved to be a comeback kid.

The first Westerners who made their way to Japan’s islands for trade were the Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese in the 16th and 17th centuries. After European traders’ attempts to convert the locals to Catholicism, Japan refused trade with nearly all foreign prospects in 1639, only minimally trading with Chinese and Dutch vessels.

The reopening of Western trade with Japan in the 1850s proved not only big business and a political move but also a huge cultural shake-up and touristic undertaking. As Osaka welcomed trade for the first time in centuries, foreign business travelers arrived with the need for dining, shopping and accommodations. Foreign needs quickly turned into a

money-making outlet for the city, as establishments boasting authentic Japanese culture and eateries filled the port city, acting as a siren call to newcomers.

Times changed again for Osaka when the Tokugawa clan took control of Japan and moved the political center to Edo, present-day Tokyo. Economic powers followed, leaving Osaka in dire straits.

Osaka began its slow, determined climb back to the top of industry and soon became known as tenka no daitdokoro, meaning “kitchen of the nation.” Osaka produced and distributed rice throughout the country, and eventually overseas when laws allowed, reestablishing itself as a force to be reckoned with. The “kitchen” aspect stuck, and remains as a clear vein running through the city today. Osaka is known for dishes like yakiniku barbecue and noodles like udon and ramen — attracting long lines of locals and in-the-know tourists. The lines grow by early afternoon, stretching along main

SHERATON MIYAKO HOTEL OSAKA Upscale accommodations complement five restaurants, a top-floor bar overlooking the city, an indoor pool and a fitness center. A variety of on-site eateries offer international cuisine from Chinese and French to locally inspired Osakan and Japanese dishes.

6 Chome-1-55 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ward $$$

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city streets and back alleys.

The Tokugawa clan fell in 1868, and Japan again restructured. The capital city, now known as Tokyo, remained a booming economic metropolis while Osaka focused on working its way back.

With technological advances at home and abroad, and Osaka’s fiercely determined people, the region developed its own culture. Its unique personality created a clear break with traditional Japanese practices, along with a blossoming arts scene that remains evident on and in buildings, boasting a sense of whimsy.

With a new interest in industrial factories, the city produced manufactured goods by the smoke load and was only officially inducted as a municipality in 1889. The newly official city played host to massive industrial business expos, poised as the epicenter of production and soon became the first city in Japan with an operating streetcar system. Today the city boasts walkable side streets and impressively efficient roadways. The city’s prowess in industry and engineering reflects in its well-established marketplace today.

Osaka rebuilt its position as a world power post-World War II, not only surviving but flourishing as it rose from the ashes with more style, character and gumption than before.

Today, Osaka is known for its eclectic nightlife, enticing street food and unusual modern architecture, all on constant display in the America-mura neighborhood.

Conveniently, this cultural hub designed for tourists but beloved by locals runs perpendicular to the famous Dōtonbori canal and pedestrian walkway lined with unique shops, nightclubs, restaurants, street-food carts and oddities like a Shiba Inu café.

Walk through covered markets and food stalls, boasting drugstores peddling matcha and wasabi Kit-Kats and Japanese character-clad everything, or turn the corner for another neighborhood with an entirely different attitude jumping at you off the walls — some literally with characters popping off restaurant roofs and siding.

“Many locals prefer Osaka and Kyoto to Tokyo. There’s so much good food and places to go at night … I think it’s one of the main reasons people love to come here,” said our local guide, from Kyoto himself, as we pulled into Osaka Station by way of the Sakura Shinkansen high-speed train.

Indeed, arriving by train, passengers sense a work-hard, play-hard mentality evident in the sky-high office buildings to one end and a glowing grid of neon nightlife to the other — peppered with ancient shrines in the distance and high-end stores lining the busy streets. The shopping and fashion industry in Osaka mean a big boom for the economy, thanks to locals and tourists from Asia and the West — a clear sign of an affluent city.

While the Osaka Prefecture is the third-most populated in the country, with more than 8.8 million residents and more than 2.6 million in the city alone, the at-

SIGNS OF THE TIMES: Dōtonbori

Canal (top), and a plate of takoyaki in Dōtonbori PHOTOS: © BENNYMARTY DREAMSTIME.COM, © MARLON TROTTMANN DREAMSTIME.COM

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OLD MEETS NEW:

mosphere is actually quite calm, not the typical gogo-go of a city one would expect. This attitude, along with the allure of its incredible food culture, downtown, ancient history and vibrant nightlife, acts as a magnet for tourists and business travelers.

Boasting more than 180,000 business establishments, the second-largest concentration of business in the country, the city proves a hub for government functions, economic prospects and an influx of jobs. Nearly 1 million workers travel into the city each day, rounding out the daytime population to nearly 3.5 million.

Still, Osaka feels more akin to the borough of Brooklyn, New York, than the bustling metropolis of Midtown Manhattan.

Even with its ancient history, Osaka appeals to the young. Software engineers, mechanical engineers and tech developers flock here for work and an affordable cost of living. With an average apartment going for half the rate as one the same size in Tokyo — the capital city regularly makes most-expensive-cities lists — Osaka appeals to up-and-comers as well as the fiscally responsible.

Up there with manufacturing, wholesale and retail trade, real estate and specialized sciences providing technical support, tourism thrives as a main revenue source in Osaka. Home to big-name brands like Panasonic, Osaka does not depend on one primary form of revenue. Perhaps a hard-learned lesson from its past, or the result of a diverse educational, political and societal landscape, Osaka has just enough stake in enough varying industries to adapt to whatever trend it sees next.

With all the trappings and attractions of a fast-paced city, Osaka comes with the added flair of its unique personality and calm, welcoming demeanor. Through endless political changes and economic shifts, Osaka found its footing and climbed higher than before, building an eclectic, modern-meets-tradition, vibrant and diverse cityscape in its wake.

CHECKING IN WITH NAOTO IDE Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau

After hosting integral business leaders from around the world, what’s next in Osaka’s bright future of events? Osaka is looking forward to hosting many events, including the Rugby World Cup 2019, the World Masters Games 2021 and Expo 2025.

As a local, what do you consider new and exciting this year? This year, Osaka was proud to host the Group of 20 conference. In other big news, the Mozu-Furuichi burial mound group has been designated as a UNESCO

Osaka skyline PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING HAJIME This elegant and sophisticated establishment offers vegetableforward menu options. Pair a fine selection of wines with the exceptional tasting menu.

Edobori, Nishi Ward $$$$$ KORYU Head to this chic, upscale restaurant for seasonal, fresh cuisine. The traditional Japanese tasting menu pairs with a variety of saké, wine and beer.

Dojima, Kita Ward $$$$$ YONEMASU Opened in 2016, this Michelinstarred restaurant boasts fine dining, fresh sushi and stunning multicourse meals. Ōsaka-fu, Ōsaka-shi, Kita-ku, Ōyodominami $$$$

COMING AND GOING

World Heritage site. These 49 ancient mounded tombs are 1,600 years old and lie just south of Osaka.

What should visitors know about Osaka? The Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau selected a new catchphrase — “DOWNTOWN OF Japan” — that more specifically expresses Osaka’s vitality, its brilliance to the world and its history and culture. It is appropriate for launching the Osaka international tourist city to the world. Based on this catchphrase, we aim to communicate Osaka’s diverse attractions to as many countries as possible in order to establish Osaka brands around the world.

U.S. citizens need a passport valid for the extent of their stay. Visas are only required for stays longer than 90 days, and no vaccinations are required.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Japanese

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INFO TO GO

Most travelers flying directly into Osaka arrive at Osaka International Airport.

While traveling within Japan, visitors often purchase a Japan Rail Pass prior to their arrival in the country as an efficient way to navigate a multicity visit. Within Osaka, visitors often walk or use cabs and public transportation.

DIVERSIONS While the quirky, modern side of Osaka attracts travelers from all over the world — including sites like Universal Studios Japan and Dōtonbori’s vibrant nightlife, canal rides and foodie attractions — the city is historically known for its ancient history and iconic landmarks.

Visitors flock to Shitennoji, a Buddhist temple dating back to the year 593; the famous Osaka Castle, lined with pristine gardens and boasting a stunning city view; and the Hōkoku Shrine, a historic Shinto shrine honoring Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

The Shinsekai shopping district dates back to the early 1900s, with fun souvenir shops and attractions, while Shinsaibashi district offers more fashionable boutiques. Manga culture is alive and well in the Nipponbashi district, and the Nakanoshima region boasts more green space to walk through artistic and architectural attractions.

For a stunning view of the expansive city, sightseers head to Tsutenkaku, or observation deck, for a bird’s-eye view of Osaka, new and old.

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VIBRANT ATTRACTIONS:

Osaka Shinsekai (top), and Universal Studios Japan (bottom) PHOTOS: © SEAN PAVONE DREAMSTIME.COM, © JANNOON028 DREAMSTIME.COM

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stateside | ATLANTA

Perpetual Motion Atlanta carries on with vigorous rebuilding and reinvention. BY JAN SCHRODER LOFTY PERCH:

Skyline Park atop Ponce City Market PHOTO: © DANIEL JENNINGS DREAMSTIME.COM

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MAYBE IT’S BECAUSE 40 percent of Atlanta was destroyed during the Civil War in 1864 and was forced to rebuild from its ashes. Or maybe it’s due to later generations of visionaries who developed a racetrack into the world’s busiest airport, a soft drink into the world’s most recognized brand and a hot Southern city into host of the Centennial Summer Olympics. Whatever the reason, this capital of Georgia is perpetually growing and reinventing itself.

In 2017 two major sports stadiums opened: Mercedes-Benz Stadium, home of the Atlanta Falcons, Atlanta United and the 2019 Super Bowl; and SunTrust Park, home of the Atlanta Braves. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport is piloting a $6 billion renovation. Engineering a $55 million renovation, the

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Georgia World Congress Center will increase its convention space to 1.5 million square feet, including a new 1,000-room Signia Hilton hotel.

While many residential areas in the city maintain their charm with elegant homes, tree-lined streets and sidewalks, Atlanta’s commercial corridors remain in a constant state of change. Former industrial areas and warehouses now host apartments, condos, restaurants and retail. This includes the Westside Provisions District, which helped launch the industrial adaptive re-use trend in 2008.

Nearby lie Star Metals, a $330 million development that will feature a boutique hotel and a 14-story tower, and the Goat Farm Arts Center. This abandoned textile mill where kids used to visit roaming goats later morphed into a ramshackle arts compound with rentable studio and event space.

(The goats eventually were evicted due to rowdy behavior.) The site is being transformed into a live-work community with an arts-based hotel, restaurants, commercial building and new home for The Museum of Contemporary Art Georgia.

Perhaps nothing changed the soul of my hometown as much as the Atlanta BeltLine, which won the hearts of residents and visitors alike who flock to its paths. Envisioned by Ryan Gravel for his Georgia Tech master’s thesis and eventually adopted by the city, this system of multiuse trails and parks was constructed on a 22-mile loop of former railroad corridors. Several segments are open, with full completion slated for 2030.

One popular section runs between Ponce City Market and Krog Street

ON THE MOVE:

Entrance to Atlanta`s popular Ponce City Market Rooftop (top), and people walking and running in the urban green space along the Atlanta BeltLine (bottom) PHOTOS : © DANIEL JENNINGS - DREAMSTIME.COM, © RUSS ENSLEY - DREAMSTIME.COM

SCENIC DRIVES

Market, two successful mixed-use developments with food halls. Ponce City Market, constructed in a former 1 million-square-foot Sears building, offers offices, residences and one of the city’s most popular rooftops. A much smaller development, Krog Street Market sprang up in an abandoned Atlanta Stove Works warehouse and features bars, restaurants and retail.

Gravel said of the BeltLine, “I’ve been surprised by how much people love it and want to be a part of it. People want to move there, and companies want to be on it. The BeltLine came to life because people in the city fell in love with the vision it showed for the future.”

Gravel is now involved in West End Mall, a $300 million development in southwest Atlanta of offices, hotels, homes, restaurants and shops. One of his goals: preserving the culture and civil rights legacy of this traditionally African-American area.

Chris Carter, founder and partner, Vantage Realty Partners, says Atlanta struggles with the same issues other cities encountered as residents reverse the mid20th-century exodus and move back into the cities.

“Many city planners and developers still only know the practices that were instituted in the suburbs over the last 70 years, and they’re trying to force people in the city to abide by them, always with the automobile as the main priority, not the pedestrian. We’re seeing it slowly change, and there are a few young developers in Atlanta that have put out some amazing projects of revitalized buildings.”

Travel just 90 minutes northeast of Atlanta and you’ll reach the scenic Southern Appalachian Mountains.

For the best views, take the RussellBrasstown Scenic Byway, a 41-mile loop inside the Chattahoochee National Forest. You’ll pass through a section of the Appalachian Trail, which starts in Georgia and offers lots of opportunities for hikes to view waterfalls. The twin waterfalls of Anna Ruby Falls are a highlight. Make a stop at Brasstown Bald, on top of Georgia’s highest mountain. A 360-degree observation deck at the visitors center offers magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. You’ll think you’re in Bavaria when you pass through Helen, Georgia’s replica of an Alpine village.

Start the 55-mile loop of the Meriwether-Pike Scenic Byway in Warm Springs, Georgia, a little more than an hour south of Atlanta. Begin with a tour of the Little White House, a retreat for President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, who traveled there looking for relief for his polio-stricken legs in the warm natural spring waters. The tour continues to Gay, where you can see a large gristmill at Jones Mill, located in what was once a thriving farm community. Another highlight: the 391-foot Red Oak Creek Covered Bridge in Woodbury.

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9–5 | LONDON

In the Know Impress clients in King’s Cross, London’s newest hub for business and culture.

DESIGN DETAILS: King’s Cross Station (above), and the Tom Dixon flagship store and showroom at Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross (left) PHOTOS: © JEFF WHYTE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © LEKLEK73 - DREAMSTIME.COM

BY HARRIET BASKAS

NO MATTER WHAT HAPPENS — or doesn’t happen — with Brexit and the United Kingdom’s efforts to leave the European Union, London remains a vital center of culture and finance.

As proof, head for the north-central London neighborhood of King’s Cross, dubbed the “Knowledge Quarter.” A decade or so back, this area, anchored by the King’s Cross and St. Pancras railway stations, was gritty and rough. Now, though, it stands out as one of the city’s most vibrant hubs for business and leisure, thanks to ongoing major redevelopment efforts and the undeterred influx of

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high-tech companies.

Well-funded, up-and-coming startups as well as tech giants such as Google and Facebook are planting roots and establishing major outposts in the King’s Cross neighborhood. Biomedical and scientific organizations flock here as well. The Francis Crick Institute makes its home here, with a café, exhibition gallery and events open to the public.

Also in the neighborhood: the Alan Turing Institute, named for the British mathematician and computer pioneer, and the Wellcome Collection, a free medical and science museum that identifies with an “incur-

ably curious” audience and offers a café, gift shop, library and the Wellcome Kitchen restaurant.

Cultural opportunities also abound in the Knowledge Quarter: The British Library offers plenty of free events, tours, lectures and exhibitions for the public. In addition to temporary exhibitions, the free, permanent “Treasures of the British Library” exhibit displays everything from a Gutenberg Bible and the Magna Carta to one of Leonardo da Vinci’s notebooks. King’s Place, a major arts, music and event venue which includes a café and the Rotunda Bar & Restaurant with a waterside terrace, can be booked for meetings and events.

In between meetings, tap into the free, unlimited and robust (up to 5Mbps — “enough to stream a video”) WiFi offered throughout the King’s Cross neighborhood and explore some of the area’s other attractions. For an overview of the area, download an illustrated do-it-yourself walking tour or sign up for a free guided tour offered by the King’s Cross Visitor Center.

Built in 1850 to warehouse and disperse the millions of tons of coal that once arrived in London each year by rail, Coal Drops Yard, just a short walk from St. Pancras, was recently reborn as a trendy shopping, dining and cultural center.

The fountains at Granary Square, with 1,080 individually controlled and lit jets, prove endlessly fascinating, whether you take off your shoes and take a run through them or not. Harry Potter fans will want to grab a photo with a baggage cart embedded in the wall at Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross Station. And if you’re in town on a weekend, be sure to wander through Canopy Market, the covered market that operates just off of Granary Square and features food, drink, music, flowers and plenty of handmade objects.

Four train services operate from the neoGothic St. Pancras International railway station, including Eurostar, providing service to Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam and several other cities. St. Pancras is also home to the St. Pancras Champagne Bar by Searcy’s, with “Press for Champagne” buttons on the tables, and the 5-star St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel London.

It encompasses impressive venues including the Booking Office and the Gilbert Scott for power breakfasts, lunch meetings, cocktails, afternoon tea and close-the-deal business dinners.

As a nice touch, guests staying in one of the hotel’s Chamber Suites and arriving via Eurostar are met on the platform by a hotel concierge and escorted to their rooms.

Those departing get the fast-track Seat to Suite service as well.

The King’s Cross neighborhood provides plenty of ways to get to, from and through it, as it is one of the best-connected hubs in the city and the United Kingdom. Uber proves a popular way to travel in London, and visitors also can hail London’s iconic black cabs at most hotels and on most

corners. For convenience and efficiency, consider pre-booked car service, such as Addison Lee and GLH. Heathrow, Gatwick and Luton airports all lie within one hour via the London Underground, known as the Tube. Tube lines that reach King’s Cross include Circle, Hammersmith & City, Metropolitan, Northern, Piccadilly and Victoria. To travel, buy an Oyster Card from machines inside stations, load it with cash value and keep in mind you can also use the card on buses and trams. London also offers Santander Cycles bike hire service, allowing users to hire a bike from any docking station and return it to a docking station elsewhere.

BRITISH ICONS: Posing at Platform 9 3/4 in King’s Cross Station (top), and The British Library (bottom) PHOTOS: © COWARDLION DREAMSTIME.COM, © ANDREW VERNON - DREAMSTIME.COM

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after 5 | MEXICO CITY

Buenas Noches Enjoy an after-hours lesson in local flavor in Mexico City.

ENCHANTED EVENING: Angel of Independence, Mexico City

PHOTO: © SURIEL RAMIREZ ZALDIVAR DREAMSTIME.COM

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AFTER YEARS OF TRYING to score a reservation at Mexico’s most acclaimed restaurant, Pujol, in Mexico City’s vibrant Polanco neighborhood, I finally find myself part of the in crowd at the restaurant’s best table. Nibbling on rich mole, I contemplate that who you know matters. In my case, I snagged my table at Chef Enrique Olvera’s mecca of contemporary Mexican gastronomy thanks to Fluenz Spanish Immersion, an upscale language program which not only teaches you Spanish in customized, one-week tutorials but also offers exclusive VIP benefits in the evenings — from a night at Pujol to after-hours tours at a variety of museums, from lectures to pub crawls.

Whether you’ve come to Mexico’s historic capital city to study Spanish or not, stepping out at night promises to improve your communication skills. As one of the world’s most social cities, renowned for groundbreaking bartenders and inimitable bars, CDMX redefines “classroom” in the best way. Note to imbibers: You may need more than one night to visit them all.

Bosforo Mezcaleria, in the historic district, may well be the world’s most admired artisanal mezcal bar. For aficionados who want to go to the equivalent of a mezcal library (albeit one

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BY BECCA HENSLEY

where talking is allowed), this dive-y but quiet spot serves abundant small-batch renditions made from the agave plant.

Iconic Xaman in the Zona Rosa exudes a members-only, speakeasy feel. Inside, it pays homage to Mexico’s mystical traditions, from herbal healing to shamanic rituals. Libations deeply delve into the locale. Try Xtabentun, an anise seed and fermented honey liqueur from the Yucatán, served in a shot glass.

The city’s LGBTQ+ scene, known for popular pop-up parties in unexpected places, encompasses abundant brick-and-mortar clubs as well. Concentrated in Zona Rosa, the action stretches to the verges of La Condesa and Roma, too. For dance lovers, Marrakech Salón, with its retro whimsy, musical variety (Katy Perry to Maria Callas) and bare-chested servers keeps things fun.

World-famous for its craft cocktails, Roma-sited Licorería Limantour references heyday Mexico City with its Art Decoinfused vibe. History meets modernity, local products and global flair all come into play. Your biggest problem will be deciding what to sip. Grapefruit juice-based Mr. Pink beats the heat, while Margarita al Pastor takes umami to new levels.

neighborhoods | TALLINN

Up to Date Tallinn honors its complex past while forging a hip future. BY RINA NEHDAR

rks n ma n i l l a in T pse of wer o T colla , on TV e the gan when r The e h n be ite w the s iet Unio e than ov or nia, the S , 1989, m om Esto 23 le fr ned Aug. peop tvia joi n o i l a l o 2 mi ia and L rotest t p n l a u u Lith n peacef hain of si le c hand 420-mi a form . ns huma HISTORY AND HERITAGE: Old Town Tallinn (left), and Telliskivi Loomelinnak (below) PHOTOS: © RINA NEHDAR

ESTONIA IS A LOVER, not a fighter. Over its 800 years of existence, except for a few notable instances of resistance, it largely assimilated into the culture of its conquering nations. Perhaps that’s why its Old Town is one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. Even if you’re not into all that touristy stuff, you’ll still want to walk through the two ivory towers of Viru Gate, where traders and kings once passed, into the walled, cobblestone streets of Old Town Tallinn, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

You’ll stroll by neatly lined, pastel-hued homes with pulleys mounted just below the ridge of gabled roofs, once used to hoist salt and other merchandise for storage above the living quarters. Imposing churches — some with ornate circus-like domes, some with ominous turrets — hide tales of scandal and treachery behind their magnificence. Viru Street leads to Town Hall Square, boasting the best-preserved Gothic town hall in Northern Europe. Today Tallinn Town Hall hosts concerts in the summer and one of Europe’s best Christmas markets. Across the square sits Tallinn City Pharmacy, the longest-operating pharmacy in Europe.

Though its exact opening date is unclear, records show

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the pharmacy had its third owner by 1422 and once sold mummy juice, burned bees and stallion hooves to cure ailments. Some ancient remedies are still on display.

According to legend, it also offered the best marzipan — an almond paste and sugar concoction — along the Hanseatic trading route. But today’s must-stop for marzipan is the oldest operating café in Old Town Tallinn, Café Maiasmokk, Estonian for “sweet tooth” and definitely deserving of the name.

Farther from this Tallinn of the past lies a newer section of the city, Telliskivi Loomelinnak, or Creative City. Once an austere train repair yard, it was reborn in 2007, after the demise of the Soviet Union. Telliskivi, now a hip zone, features street art, after-hours DJs, libations and milling 20-somethings. Dine on the roof of the photography museum, Fotografiska; grab a craft beer from the nearly 100 available at Pudel Bar; or come back during the day to shop in one of the local artists’ studios.

No longer content to linger in days gone by, Tallinn is moving on.

Tallinn ESTONIA

RUSSIA

LATVIA

LITHUANIA

RUSSIA BELARUS POLAND

friends & family | ABU DHABI

Desert Diversions

Theme parks to motor sports to museums, Abu Dhabi entertains all ages.

BY RICHARD NEWTON

OASIS OF FUN: Yas Waterworld PHOTO: © CHRISSTANLEY - DREAMSTIME.COM

is habi D u d f Ab e Unite o y t th ci he The pital of nd of t a bi. ca the mirates bu Dha est fA bE Ara irate o than W r in em arge habi’s h t. l y l r ht D Slig ia, Abu tly dese s n i o Virg nd is m a l ter

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ABU DHABI AT THE HEIGHT of summer. The temperature nudges 120 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s too hot to go anywhere or do anything — you would think. But starting next year there will be a fresh option for long-suffering parents to relieve their kids of sweltering boredom. Dress them up in winter coats, gloves and hats and let them play in the snow.

The 120,000-square-foot Snow Abu Dhabi will be the centerpiece of the new $1.2 billion Reem Mall close to downtown. This desert nation’s ambitions have never been modest. While this won’t be the first indoor snow park in a hot country (the neighboring emirate of Dubai opened an indoor ski resort in 2005), it will be the world’s largest, offering themed zones and 13 snow-based activities.

Abu Dhabi illustrates what can happen when money is no object. The richest city on Earth claims more than a quarter of a million households boasting an annual income of more than $250,000. This mind-boggling wealth is based on oil, the emirate’s great natural blessing. With a relatively tiny population, the oil money touched virtually every

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at Abu Dhabi International Airport, 19 miles east of downtown. The airport will not be connected to the first phase of the Abu Dhabi Metro, which opens in 2020, though a station is planned for the future. For now, buses offer a cheap transport option into town, and hotel bookings often include free shuttle services. If you are coming from Dubai, the coach journey takes two hours and 20 minutes and costs around $9 each way.

Taxis are usually half an hour quicker and cost at least $90.

Emirati family and transformed a once modest fishing port into a glitzy, high-rise metropolis.

The vast majority of the population comprises expatriates from South Asia, Europe and North America. For them especially, the climate has always posed a challenge. In July and August the temperatures are ferocious, but wealth has allowed the emirate to subvert the extremes of its climate, conjuring snow in summer and water in the desert.

Yas Waterworld is widely regarded as one of the world’s top water parks, as you’d expect of an attraction that initially cost $250 million to build. Here kids and adults alike find another escape option from heat and boredom. With 43 separate rides, more than 5.6 million liters of water course through the pools and slides every hour. The park includes the largest surfable sheet wave in the world and features as a regular venue for the World Flowboarding Championships.

Next to the waterpark awaits another great escapist theme park, the huge, indoor Warner Bros. World. Attractions include tributes to Batman and Superman, along with cartoons such as Scooby-Doo, Bugs Bunny, the Jetsons and the Flintstones. A wide variety of dining options and, of course, souvenir shops complement the dedicated rides.

The third of the three theme parks on Yas Island (look into available discount tickets for all three) is Ferrari World, devoted to the iconic Italian motor company. Attractions

include Formula Rossa, the world’s fastest roller coaster, accelerating from 0 to 149 mph in 4.9 seconds. Less extreme activities include an indoor go-kart track and a variety of racing simulators. Retail and dining options are located within an indoor replica of an Italian village.

Ferrari World is located beside the famous motor-racing track, Yas Marina Circuit. Visitors over the age of 21 can drive the track in a Ferrari, either as passengers to a racing driver or behind the wheel themselves.

The Yas Marina Circuit, best known for hosting the closing race of the Formula 1 Grand Prix season each November, throughout the year proves a mecca for gearheads of all ages, with regular events including drag races and drifting competitions.

Theme parks and motorsports represent just two facets of Abu Dhabi’s push to establish itself as a world-class destination. At the other end of the scale balance its prestigious museums. In 2017 Louvre Abu Dhabi opened, the first outpost of the famous Parisian museum outside France.

Located on Saadiyat Island — the city’s new Cultural District — and housed in a breathtaking building designed

by Jean Nouvel, the Louvre aims to bridge the gap between Eastern and Western art. The exhibits include many famous paintings loaned by the parent museum. Ultimately, the star attraction will be Salvator Mundi by Leonardo da Vinci, the

LODGING ARMED FORCES OFFICERS CLUB & HOTEL Despite the name, this hotel, open to civilians, is one of the most kid-friendly hotels in the city. Facilities include a shooting range (lessons available for juniors), a bowling alley, a soccer academy and a kids’ summer camp.

Al Khaleej Al Arabi Road $$$ EASTERN MANGROVES HOTEL & SPA BY ANANTARA Close to downtown yet overlooking a tranquil waterway and a mangrove nature reserve, the property has no kids’ club but offers babysitting services.

Eastern Ring Road, Salam Street $$$ YAS HOTEL ABU DHABI Managed by Marriott, this makes the ideal base if your visit will center on the theme parks of Yas Island and the motor racing circuit. Some rooms look directly onto the racetrack.

Yas Island $$$$

TWISTS AND TURNS:

World’s fastest roller coaster at Ferrari World theme park PHOTO: © CHRISSTANLEY - DREAMSTIME.COM

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world’s most expensive painting, purchased in 2017 for $450 million and due to go on display in late 2019.

Another outpost of a famous museum should begin construction nearby in the next few months. The Guggenheim Abu Dhabi will display contemporary art in a building designed by Frank Gehry. Close by, the proposed Zayed National Museum has yet to break ground but promises to be the most spectacular of all, housed in a building reminiscent of Sydney Opera House but on a much larger scale.

The Al Qana Aquarium, slated to open in early 2020, will display 33,000 marine creatures in 10 aquatic zones and will be the largest aquarium in the Middle East.

Abu Dhabi is all about superlatives: the biggest, the most expensive, the best. It may not always be to your taste, but as the city continues to evolve, it seeks to ensure there will be something here for everyone.

One thing you can count on: You’ll never be bored in this dynamic Arabian city.

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EAST MEETS WEST: Louvre Abu Dhabi exterior (above) and interior (left) PHOTOS: © OLGA SLOBODIANIUK - DREAMSTIME.COM, © ALENA GORODETSKAYA - DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING

CABANA BEACH BAR & GRILL A day pass gives you access to the private beach, pool and Treasure Island Children’s Club. The restaurant offers some of the best burgers in the city.

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, Nation Riviera Beach Club, The Corniche $$$ THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY Located in Yas Mall, this popular family option serves Italian and American cuisine and offers a name picky kids and eaters will recognize. The star attraction, the dessert menu, offers every variety of cheesecake under the sun.

Level 1, Yas Mall, Yas Island $$ LIWAN MANSOUR RESTAURANT AND GRILL A great option for adventurous young eaters, this Lebanese restaurant serves a wide range of Middle Eastern specialties, including, for the very adventurous, camel shawarma (kebab).

Khalidiya Street $$

bucket list | GREAT WALL OF CHINA

Miles to Go Climb the Great Wall of China, an amazing wonder to behold. BY IRENE RAWLINGS

CHOOSE YOUR ADVENTURE: (Left to right) Great Wall of China, hikers, and Gubei Water Town PHOTOS: © IRENE RAWLINGS, © HBCS0084 - DREAMSTIME.COM

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MY HUSBAND AND I SCRAMBLE up a steep, rocky trail, following hand-lettered signs pointing us toward the Great Wall. At first, there’s not much to see except dense foliage, but coming around a bend, we catch our first glimpse of this world-famous structure. It is massive. At the top we are alone, with only the sound of birds and the rustle of wind in the trees for company. The view of the wall snaking relentlessly through the mountains to the hazy, distant horizon is intoxicating.

On a climb to an impressive but unreconstructed portion of the Great Wall, we gained private access from an unusual hotel — Commune by the Great Wall — a little more than an hour outside of Beijing. Commune can arrange a multicourse, white-tablecloth lunch atop the Great Wall, but we opt for a simple dinner — in a knapsack packed with real silverware, linen napkins, crystal goblets and a nice bottle of wine. We pop the cork at sunset. As the darkness slowly falls, we can almost imagine ourselves back in ancient times … until several of the hotel staff come with flashlights to fetch us.

Set in a mountainous forest, Commune by the Great Wall is not

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a hotel in the traditional sense but a collection of architecturally significant villas, each designed by a famous Asian architect (including Japanese starchitect Kengo Kuma, who recently designed the 2020 Tokyo Olympics stadium). Commune won the architecture prize at the 2002 Venice Biennale, making it a great place to stay if you love architecture and interior design. A big plus: Most rooms offer a view of the Great Wall.

The Chinese call it the Long Wall. Indeed. It measures more than 13,000 miles long. Some portions are more than 2,300 years old, built as a series of fortifications along the historic border between China and Mongolia. Most of the 5,500-mile-long section, part of which we visited today, however, was built (of brick, stone and mud — by hand) in the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644). It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The most famous, most developed and most touristy section of the Great Wall is Badaling. Commune by the Great Wall provides its guests with a hotel car to drive them to the main ticket office from which they may take a cable car to the top to visit the 16 restored watchtowers.

Driving from Beijing takes about 90 minutes. Near Badaling, stop at Juyong Pass to see a colossal castle-fortress.

Slightly less touristy and ideal if you’re tight on time, Mutianyu includes 22 beautifully restored watchtowers and can be seen in less than a day from Beijing. In the interest of speed, take the chairlift to the top, watch a sunset and, when you’re done, slide down the hill in a single-person bobsled.

The Jianshanling section offers a more authentic wall experience, with great vistas and fewer tourists. Six miles long with five high-altitude passes (expect some serious climbing), it encompasses 67 watchtowers with original features like 16th-century poetry scrawled on the walls.

The fit and fearless may seek out the steep and wild Jiankou section. Think narrow mountain ridges, sheer cliffs, being eye-level with eagles and every photo a knockout. G Adventures organizes a 10-day Walking the Great Wall tour that includes overnights in simple guest houses and camping right on the wall.

Gubei Water Town, conveniently located near the peaceful Simatai section, is a modern resort built to look like an imperial Qing Dynasty (1644–1912) town. Though it exudes a theme-park vibe, real people Live in the hutongs (courtyard houses) along the narrow stone streets. Especially pretty at night, the wall is illuminated and everyone climbing up carries a lantern. The bobbing of hundreds of hand-held lanterns creates a magical scene.

Spring and autumn prove ideal times to visit, with cool weather and clear skies. Try to avoid weekends and national holidays, especially the two Golden Weeks (early May and early October). Save time by hiring an English-speaking private driver and buying VIP access tickets that include close-in parking and no lines. The cost?

From $100 per person.

If the Great Wall is on your bucket list, you’ll discover many unique ways to see this monumental wonder — including by helicopter, sidecar and bicycle — gloriously free from teeming throngs of tourists. Planning ahead is key.

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INFO TO GO

Most international airlines fly to Beijing Capital International Airport. From there, it takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours to reach various sections of the wall by car.

Commune by the Wall is a 15-minute drive from Badaling’s private airport, a 20minute transfer from Beijing Capital.

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kicking back | THE CARIBBEAN

Island to Island Hop about the Caribbean on your next indulgent getaway. BY KIMBERLY KROL ISLAND TIME:

(Left to right) Saint Martin beach, St. Kitts Scenic Railway with the island of Nevis in the distance, Great Bay Beach in Sint Maarten, St. Kitts and Nevis town skyline at the port PHOTOS: © THIERRYDEHOVE DREAMSTIME.COM, © SUE MARTIN -DREAMSTIME.COM, © RUTH PETERKIN DREAMSTIME.COM, © SEAN PAVONE DREAMSTIME.COM

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AS A MID-MARCH SNOWSTORM pummeled my northeastern U.S. hometown with eight inches of snow, I stuck my toes into the cool waters of several Caribbean islands. I wasn’t sorry to miss the fluffy white snow, instead preferring the white sand I strolled along as the waves clipped at my heels. A leisure vacation feels even more satisfying when you know you’ve left the unpleasant weather at home.

My Caribbean itinerary included island-hopping mostly in the Lesser Antilles/Leeward Islands: I began in Sint Maarten, and made my way to St. Kitts & Nevis, Antigua, Anguilla, Guadeloupe, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines and Barbados. Each was a new island to me, and I took the chance to both kick back and also actively discover a bit of what each island offers.

While my time in Sint Maarten was limited to its Dutch side, travelers to the island, half-Dutch and half-French, enjoy the best of both worlds, relishing in the cultures of both countries as well as the unique blended

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culture the island affords. Sint Maarten-Saint Marten is, in fact, the smallest land mass in the world shared by two nations, and the most-visited of the Leeward Islands.

From the United States, I arrived in Philipsburg, the capital, and a busy port city bustling with not only people but duty-free shopping, resorts, villas, activities and, of course, beaches. The airport is well-served from destinations around the globe, and the island is a huge draw for yachting, one of the biggest in the Caribbean.

I would be sailing between the various islands on my agenda, and as I made my way from the airport hub to the port, I spotted areas of the island still affected from 2017’s Hurricane Irma; however, it was clear from the airport and the port, both crowded with visitors, the island is largely back in the business of welcoming leisure-seekers.

I really dug my toes into the sand during my time in St. Kitts, enjoying a beach barbecue on Carambola Beach in Basseterre. As I enjoyed Champagne served in the surf and freshly grilled lobster, then read a book under an umbrella while sipping from a drink boasting one, I finally had that ah-ha moment of release that a week-long Caribbean vacation in March (or any month, really) requires and demands. This was island living at its finest, or “limin,” the St. Kitts & Nevis word for hanging out.

Relaxation on a beautiful beach is all it’s cracked up to be, but St. Kitts & Nevis also boasts a rich history ripe for exploration. While debating daily activities, I considered a visit to the island’s Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a wellpreserved fortress designed by the British military. I was also intrigued

by a ride on the St. Kitts Scenic Railway, an approximately 18-mile-long narrow-gauge railway line along the coastline.

I’d kicked back, I’d indulged and now it was time for some retail therapy. My next stop in St. John’s, Antigua, proved a place where my credit card could join the vacation. Before a catamaran and snorkeling adventure with Wadadli Cats, I spent the morning strolling through the colorful kaleidoscope of stores nearby the port. Loaded up with Caribbean coffee, hot sauce, jellies and ornaments, it was time to go under the sea.

The well-run Wadadli Cats catamaran adventure made a snorkeling stop; I found the water a bit hazy that day, with the currents whipping up the sandy bottom, but I still spotted colorful schools of fish and coral, before deciding I’d spend the rest of our time on the catamaran’s deck with a rum punch. It’s not an afternoon on the water in the Caribbean without one of the signature cocktails, after all. The tour also included a stop on a quiet, nearly deserted beach before a return to the same candy-colored storefronts I’d perused earlier.

Unfortunately, on-and-off but torrential rainstorms left my plans in Anguilla, literally and figuratively,

soaking wet. I strolled along the beachfront for just a few minutes before I felt the raindrops grace my skin, but I did manage to learn a little bit about the island favored by celebrities and other A-listers. Its long list of posh resorts boasts well-known luxury brand names like Four Seasons and Belmond. This is the place to be seen, but not actually seen, thanks to exclusive and private resorts. In November, Hilton’s LXR Hotels and Resorts brand will debut on the island with Zemi Beach House Hotel and Spa. Before I departed for my vacation, I was most excited to explore Terre-de-Haut, in the Îles des Saintes in Guadeloupe. This little island had been on my radar, as it kept popping up in conversation and articles. With its unspoiled beaches, no chain resorts, no casinos and unique French flair, it did not disappoint. It remains my favorite.

My wallet also came out to play in Terre-de-Haut, but how could it not when the streets are lined with incredible French boutiques? Clothes and shoes in whites and vivid blues that mimicked the ocean beckoned me inside one such boutique before I set off on a mission to find the traditional island pastry, tourment d’amour.

Locals set up trays outside their front doors to sell the homemade, fresh, pie-like pastries. Their ubiquity

DINING

AU BON VIVRE Taste the French influence at Terrede-Haut’s Au Bon Vivre, serving both local island food and French imports in a Creole building built more than 150 years ago.

30, 97137 Rue Jean Calot, Terre-de-Haut, Guadeloupe $$$ THE COVE RESTAURANT Perched upon a clifftop at Blue Waters Resort & Spa in Antigua, diners at The Cove Restaurant can take in the stunning

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Caribbean Sea views along with Caribbean dishes.

St. John’s, Antigua $$$$ STRAW HAT RESTAURANT Breakfast, lunch and dinner are available at Anguilla’s popular Straw Hat Restaurant at Frangipani Beach Resort on Meads Bay. The theme is tastefully on display throughout.

Frangipani Beach Resort, Anguilla $$$$

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BEACH TO BOAT:

St. Lucia beach (top), and Wadadli Cats in St John’s, Antigua PHOTOS: © LAWRENCE WESLOWSKI JR - DREAMSTIME.COM, © IRISHKA777 - DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING

BELMOND LA SAMANNA Be dazzled at this luxury property on St. Martin, and enjoy luxury guestrooms with a nautical touch alongside the crystal-blue waters of the resort’s private beach.

Baie Longue, Terres Basses, Saint Martin $$$$$ JADE MOUNTAIN Breathtaking all around, from its surrounding scenery to its stunning architecture, Jade Mountain offers a serene luxury escape on the island of Saint Lucia.

Saint Lucia $$$$$ SANDY LANE For a bit of everything with a touch of luxury in Barbados, look no further than Sandy Lane, boasting guestrooms and suites, sports facilities, golf and a spa.

Holetown, Barbados $$$$$

INFO TO GO

Direct flights from the U.S. East Coast are available to/from Sint Maarten (SXM), St. Kitts and Nevis (SKB), Antigua (ANU), Saint Lucia (SLU) and Barbados (BGI), as well as other Caribbean islands.

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throughout the island piqued my interest to learn more. According to my follow-up research (I turned to Google and not just my taste buds), a local Terre-de-Haut girl fell in love with a sailor. He was called away, but with the promise of his return by a certain date. In anticipation, the girl prepared the aforementioned pastries. The sailor was delayed a few days and returned to find his love had taken her own life from the torment of waiting. Since, women on the island have made the dessert, known as tourment d’amour or love’s torment, for their sailors as a charm to bring them home safely.

Coconut is the traditional flavor, but, today, you can also find guava, banana and anise versions.

St. Lucia is a popular choice among Caribbean-bound travelers, drawn to its lush landscape, surrounded by both the Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea. It’s perhaps best known for its twin coastal peaks, the Pitons, but I took, instead, to the rainforest.

Rainforest Adventures St. Lucia takes visitors via open-air aerial tram on an eco-tour through the rainforest, with a knowledgeable local guide pointing out the flora, fauna and wildlife.

Another island for which I had big expectations was Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. As soon as you set foot on the soil of the island, you can feel the energy of the islanders and the culture of the place. On a tour to familiarize myself with the land, the guides, all local women, sang us songs of the island legends and shared lore from centuries long ago.

Orton “Brother” King is another personality of the island; he owns and runs Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary. A native skin-diving fisherman concerned with the depleting ocean resources, he’s now dedicated his life to saving the hawksbill turtle. A visit to the

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sanctuary is another way in which the life, beauty and culture of this island comes alive for travelers.

Barbados, my final stop, held additional meaning as it was where my parents honeymooned 41 years earlier; I’d be able to experience for myself a place from where they’d shared memories and stories with me over the years. I departed from this island, so I opted for a half-day tour of the highlights of Barbados, which, of course, included our guide pointing out Rihanna’s childhood home, as well as the home she now owns. A study in contrasts for sure.

Also a study in contrasts: the clothes I wore at the moment and those in my bag, the cold-weather accessories I’d pull on before boarding the flight. So, I lingered just a few moments longer on the shores, savoring those final moments of paradise, knowing those memories would last longer than the winter weather.

lgbtq+

Hospitality Plus Hotel chains go all out to welcome LGBTQ+ travelers. BY MARK CHESNUT

HAPPILY, THE DAYS when major hotel chains ignored LGBTQ+ travelers are long gone. Today globetrotters looking to choose a welcoming brand will find nearly every major hospitality chain rolling out the rainbow carpet.

Take the San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, for example. This iconic hotel in Puerto Rico, a few steps from the city’s biggest gay beach, offers a Pride and Joy couples offer that includes breakfast for two, airport transfers and a wine and cheese platter.

The property also stages same-sex weddings in its oceanfront venues, as does the nearby AC Hotel San Juan Condado, where the rooftop serves as a picturesque spot to tie the knot.

These are just two examples of Marriott International’s dedication to serving LGBTQ+ travelers with local flair. The company also maintains a Marriott Bonvoy LGBTQ Travel microsite — traveler. marriott.com/lgbt-travel — to connect travelers with destination ideas.

Hilton Worldwide is another hotelier that aims to make the most of its appeal in key destinations with LGBTQ+-friendly options. The New York Hilton Midtown this year hosted the global convention of IGLTA, the international LGBTQ+ travel association. Among the Hilton properties boasting an LGBTQ+-targeted Long Weekender offer, it includes extras like free breakfast and late check-out. Locate more such offers when you connect with the Hilton Honors website.

Hilton encourages guests to share their pride with #hiltonpride and

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partners with LGBTQ+ organizations including the Human Rights Campaign Foundation and the Matthew Shepard Foundation.

Indeed, supporting LGBTQ+ organizations provides an important way for hoteliers to show their support for the community. Hyatt Hotels Corp. works with various organizations, including the Gay and Lesbian Alliance Against Defamation and the National Gay and Lesbian Chamber of Commerce. And Belmond Ltd., which operates hotels, trains and cruises, supports organizations like Broadway Cares and Senior Action in a Gay Environment, in addition to offers like an LGBTQ+ family weekend at its Belmond Maroma Resort & Spa in Mexico.

Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, an IHG brand, has long been a high-profile supporter of LGBTQ+ causes, serving as the premier national hotel partner for the Trevor Project, which focuses on suicide prevention among LGBTQ+ youth. Parent company IHG, meanwhile, was named a Best Place to Work for LGBTQ+ Equality for the fifth time in a row this year, earning a 100 percent score on the Human Rights Campaign Foundation’s Corporate Equality Index.

PRIDE AND JOY: San Juan Marriott Resort pool (left), New York Hilton Midtown (top right), and AC Hotel San Juan Condado (bottom right) PHOTOS: © SAN JUAN MARRIOTT, © HILTON WORLDWIDE, © AC HOTELS

airport update

Holding Pattern Dabolim International remains Goa’s main airport until the completion of a new facility in Mopa.

BY ERICH MARTIN

TRAVELERS LOOKING TO FLY into India’s western state of Goa will find only a few real options. Most major flights fly into Mumbai (BOM), where travelers can often find passage to Goa relatively easily. Dabolim International Airport (GOI), India’s 10th-busiest, proves the best option for direct flights into Goa. Vasco da Gama, the closest city to the airport, lies about 2.5 miles away, but Dabolim’s days as the state’s major airport are numbered.

Currently the airport acts as a civilian airport and military airbase. In 2020 construction on a new airport will begin in Mopa, about 30 miles north of Dabolim. Upon completion of the new airport, GOI will mainly service military operations.

In the meantime, Dabolim International employs two terminals.

The first, constructed with the airport in 1983, handles all domestic traffic.

The second terminal, built in 1996, handles international travel. As it stands now, no matter where you travel from Goa, security screening takes large amounts of time thanks to the military’s use of the airport. From 2017 to 2018, 7,607,249 passengers used the airport on more than 50,000 flights.

Dabolim International serves 15 regional and international airlines. Air India, Air Asia, Finnair and Qatar Airways list among the most notable airlines operating out of the airport. Seasonally, Thomas Cook Airlines and TUI Airways transport passengers during Goa’s peak tourism season.

The actual infrastructure of the airport is relatively utilitarian.

Both terminals offer currency exchange stations, making it easy for arriving or departing travelers to quickly obtain appropriate funds.

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Duty-free shops, taxi counters and other airport mainstays make travel through Goa a cinch for the well-seasoned traveler.

However, the airport lacks options for meals. Plenty of places sell snacks, coffee and other small bites, but few serve food to really quell hunger pangs. Passengers who find the experience especially stressful will be happy to learn the airport features a spa, allowing for total relaxation before a flight. Also keep in mind the strict timing rules the airport enforces. Travelers flying internationally must reach check-in four hours before takeoff, while domestic travelers must reach security with two hours remaining.

The new airport, scheduled for completion in 2021, will span 666,900 square feet and accommodate up to 4 million passengers per year, with the potential to grow in following years. In addition, the new airport will feature state-of-the-art security systems and separate terminals for cargo.

COMING AND GOING:

Dabolim International Airport PHOTO: © PREM KUMAR DREAMSTIME.COM

health

Attention to Detail Adults with ADHD can employ coping strategies to be successful at work.

ADULT ATTENTION-DEFICIT/HYPERACTIVITY disorder is a mental health disorder that presents a combination of persistent problems such as distractibility, hyperactivity and impulsive behavior.

Adult ADHD can lead to unstable relationships, poor work or school performance, low self-esteem and other problems. ADHD can make life difficult and has been linked to unemployment, financial problems, trouble with the law and alcohol or other substance abuse. Frequent car accidents or other accidents, poor physical and mental health and suicide attempts may also be associated with ADHD. Although symptoms usually start in early childhood, in some cases ADHD is not diagnosed until adulthood. Adult ADHD symptoms may not be as clear as they are in children. Adults with ADHD may experience a decrease in hyperactivity but continue to struggle with other symptoms.

While many adults with ADHD have successful careers, others may struggle with a variety of challenges including disorganization, poor time management skills, problems prioritizing and trouble multitasking or managing complex projects. Those experiencing frequent mood swings, low frustration tolerance and difficulty coping with stress may face additional problems in the workplace.

Almost everyone has some symptoms similar to ADHD at some point in their lives. If your difficulties are recent or occurred only occasionally in the past, you probably don’t have ADHD. ADHD is diagnosed only when symptoms are severe enough to cause ongoing problems in more than one area of your life. Certain ADHD symptoms are similar to those caused by other conditions such as anxiety or mood disorders, making diagnosis difficult.

Many adults with ADHD also have at least one other mental health condition, such as depression or anxiety. If any of these symptoms continually disrupt your life, talk to your doctor about whether you might have ADHD. Seek assistance from a career counselor, psychologist, social worker or other health care worker with career counseling training to help you understand and cope with ADHD on the job.

Although ADHD doesn’t cause other psychological or developmental problems, other disorders often occur and make treatment more challenging.

Many adults with ADHD also have depression, bipolar disorder or another mood disorder. While mood problems aren’t necessarily due directly to ADHD, a repeated pattern of failures and frustrations due to ADHD can worsen depression and anxiety. Adults with ADHD are at increased risk of other psychiatric disorders, such as personality disorders, intermittent explosive disorder and substance use disorders. Adults with ADHD may score lower on academic testing than expected for their age, intelligence and education. Learning disabilities can include problems with understanding and communicating.

Treatment for adult ADHD includes medications, psychological counseling and treatment for mental health conditions that occur along with ADHD. A combination of these often provides the most effective treatment. Treatments can help manage many symptoms of ADHD, but they don’t cure it. It may take some time to determine what works best for you.

Adults with ADHD may be unpredictable and forget appointments, miss deadlines and make impulsive or irrational decisions. These behaviors can strain the patience of the most forgiving co-worker, friend or partner. Therapy that focuses on these issues and ways to monitor behavior can help, as can classes to improve communication and develop conflict resolution and problem-solving skills, couples therapy and classes for family members to learn more about ADHD. Support groups allow you to meet other people with ADHD so you can share experiences, information and coping strategies. Involve your spouse, close relatives and friends in your treatment. You may feel reluctant to let people know you have ADHD, but it can help them understand you better and improve your relationships.

Coping strategies can help you succeed in workand life-related activities. Electronic devices such as

BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

smartphones, tablets and computers are especially helpful for making checklists of daily tasks, keeping track of appointments and deadlines, and organizing information. Break down tasks into smaller, more manageable steps. Set reminders and note things you need to remember.

Get in the habit of using these systems consistently. Follow a routine that’s consistent from day to day and keep items such as your keys and wallet in the same place.

Although the Americans with Disabilities Act mandates employers with 15 or more employees must provide reasonable accommodations for employees with disabilities, there are pros and cons to disclosing an ADHD diagnosis to your employer.

Consider whether others with ADHD disclosed in the past and received a favorable outcome, what types of mental health programs your company embraces, how open your organization is to providing accommodations to employees with disabilities and other challenges, and how much your company knows about ADHD. The benefit of disclosing an ADHD diagnosis is access to accommodations under the law: Know what specific accommodations are necessary to fulfil your job responsibilities, helping you become more productive and efficient and allowing you to focus on the work rather than managing ADHD symptoms. Unfortunately, in some industries disclosing can still put people at a disadvantage due to misconceptions about ADHD. It remains an individual decision whether or not to disclose. It is possible to request accommodations on the job without disclosing your disability or calling them accommodations. Speak with your employer about your unique work style and focus on what you can do for the company if you have the environment you need to be more creative and productive. Keep the discussion in the context of being a valuable and more productive worker.

Find informative discussions about ADHD in the workplace on the Attention Deficit Disorder Association’s website at adhdatwork.add.org.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment.

Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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preview

Dubrovnik is perhaps the most prominent of Croatia’s Adriatic cities because of its enduring reputation as one of the continent’s great beachfront playgrounds. Those wanting to avoid crushing crowds, however, will delight in the fact other waterfront communities to the north fulfill the river cruise vacation’s promise: to enable visitors to discover a destination on their own terms and pace. Learn more about Croatia next month as you read Kicking Back: Croatia.

PHOTO: © EMICRISTEA - DREAMSTIME.COM

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