The Long Way Down Argentina

From north to south it is a long way down but what a pleasant country to get lost in any direction. Come along as we explore the wildlife, deserts, glaciers, mountains, coastline, cities, and more!

Thinking about Argentina, you may get visions of large stadiums packed with chanting football fans. You also may think of Evita Perón, or rugged snow-capped mountains, or even large chunks of BBQ’d steaks and tango dancing. Argentina is all of this, and a lot more.

From the snow-capped Andes Mountain Range in the west and the red-rock deserts in the north to the swampy Iberá Provincial Reserve to the east and the Patagonian glaciers to the south, it seems like Argentina has it all.

cup of “mate” (pronounced mah-tay), a ca einerich drink made from the chopped dried leaves of “yerba mate” soaked in boiling water. Served in a small metal-rimmed hollow calabash gourd and sipped through a metal straw, the drink and straw are shared among several people. is is a country where people dance the tango on the cobbled streets before breakfast!

Argentina is one of the most diverse and most pristine places on planet earth. Unquestionably.

Enjoy some of the best BBQ’s in the world, known as “asado” cooked on a grill, or “parrilla”, while sipping on a Malbec wine from the Mendoza wine region. All of this enjoyment while watching impromptu tango dancing on the cobbled streets of San Telmo in Buenos Aires.

You might already be thinking about taking a week or two to explore this amazing country. e problem is, Argentina is far away from much of the world, and distances within the country are vast. As a starter, the far north to the far south stretches over 5,000 kilometres (3,100 mi).

Once you make it here, you’d better plan on spending at least four weeks, and without a doubt when you leave, you will promise yourself to be back soon with another four weeks or more.

Argentina is a lot more than mountains, glaciers, deserts, waterfalls and wildlife. e country’s best asset is its people, and you will realize it the moment you arrive.

is is a place where family, friends, and even colleagues have a ritual based on sharing a

Argentina is also the birthplace of Eva (Evita) Perón, the First Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her death (aged 33) in 1952 from cervical cancer. Che Guevara, one of the most famous revolutionaries who assisted Fidel Castro to win back Cuba in 1959, was born in Rosario, Santa Fe province. Diego Maradona and Lionel Messi, two of the best footballers in the world, are also from Argentina.

Let’s take the long way down to Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost town, and gateway to Antarctica. While we can’t visit the entire country, we will explore some of the most recommended destinations.

Starting from La Quiaca on the Bolivian border, we travel south to the red mud-brick village of Humahuaca. From here we travel farther south to Salta before we head east to the spectacular Iguazú Falls on the tri-junction of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. Buenos Aires is next before heading south to the wildlife at Patagonia’s Peninsula Valdés. Further south, we visit some of the world’s most impressive glaciers in the Los Glaciares National Park before reaching our nal destination at Ushuaia and the Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego. From here it is a hop, skip, and a jump to the Antarctic Peninsula, but we will leave that for next time.

Humahuaca

The rustic town at the heart of the Quebrada de Humahuaca Valley.

Argentina’s northern gateway is the border-crossing at La Quiaca in Argentina and Villazon in Bolivia to the north. is is a border crossing which o en requires a lot of patience as queue lines can be long.

While Argentinians and Bolivians walk freely across the bridge, foreigners must get their passports processed in a building below the bridge which can be tedious and slow.

Not waiting in line are the hundreds of labourers running back and forth across the border to upload and unload heavy bags and other goods between trucks parked on both sides of the dividing line. e border is not always open to cargo vehicles so all cargo must be carried across the border by manpower.

As you arrive in Argentina, a large yellow road sign will welcome you with “Bi- envenidos a La Quiaca - Ushuaia 5,121 kilometres (3,182 mi)”. As you stare at the big number, you will with no doubt get dizzy with the realization that it is a very long way down to Argentina’s most southern town, Ushuaia. Between the Bolivian border and Ushuaia, known as the “world’s southernmost town”, Argentina has more to o er than we can experience in a lifetime! dered by the Andean Plateau to the west and north and by the sub-Andean hills to the east. e Grande River (Río Grande) ows through Quebrada de Humahuaca and served as a caravan route to the Inca Empire during the 15th century. e river is mostly dry during the winter months, which made it a perfect highway for ancient explorers.

About 160 kilometres (99 mi) south on the road to the town of Salta lies the red mudbrick village of Humahuaca. While the town itself is not one of the country’s highlights, the surrounding narrow mountains and valleys, named Quebrada de Humahuaca, are a vivid red-orange multi-coloured display created by mother nature. Indeed, so incredibly beautiful that it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Quebrada de Humahuaca, known as Argentina’s

Rainbow Valley, has been populated for thousands of years. It is packed with history and natural wonders.

e Spanish conquerors knew these Indian people of the Grande de Jujuy River as the “omaguacas”. According to historians, the name is derived from an Andean Indian legend that makes reference to a people crying: Humahuacac!

Humahuacac!

e town’s Hispanic foundation dates back to 1591 as it served as a stopover for expeditions to the High Perú.

Base yourself in sleepy Humahuaca and head out into the rusty-red valley by horse, on foot, or any other type of transportation t for a moon landscape.

e valley stretches about 155 kilometres (96 mi) from north to south and is bor- e curious traveller will nd a few interesting attractions in town such as the Monumento a los Héroes de la Independencia, a monument made from over 70 tons of bronze built in honour of the “Army of North” and the indigenous peoples who fought in the Quebrada de Humahuaca during Argentina’s War of Independence. e San Francisco Solano de la Bendición is a Franciscan church in the main plaza, and well worth a visit, mainly for its unique bell-tower. Every day at precisely 12-noon, the heavy copper doors of the bell-tower slowly open, and a life-size animated wooden statue of San Francisco Solano appears for about two minutes. He makes the sign of the cross and bestows his blessing on believers and passersby on the village plaza before returning to his tiny home inside the bell-tower.

Humahuaca has narrow cobbled streets, illuminated by colonial-style street lamps and is inhabited by a people clinging to ancient traditions.

Also check out the artisan market at Centro de Artesanías Tantanahue, folkloric music and dancing at selected venues including restaurants, and red pottery shops creating vivid red earthenware cra pottery.

Make sure to taste llama meat stews and many delectable dishes from the Quebrada de Humahuaca, such as quinoa empanadas (a small baked pie), locro (hearty thick stew), tamales (dough steamed in a corn husk), humitas (steamed corn cakes similar to tamales), charqui (dried, salted meat), and many more local delicacies.

About 25 kilometres (15.5 mi) east of Humahuaca lies the Serranía del Hornocal mountain range at a height of 4,761 metres (15,620 ) with its multi-coloured jagged landscape. e colours are most vivid in the late a ernoon and immediately a er sunset. e drive southward from Purmamarca to Salta takes less than three hours though you will be tempted to stop frequently for the views.

Driving south of Humahuaca along Route 9 to Purmamarca with its Cerro de los Siete Colores ( e Hill of Seven Colours) is a world of dazzling red rocks in all directions. Purmamarca is considered to be one of the most picturesque villages in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, so it is not to be missed! Enroute, spend a day or two at Tilcara, about 26 kilometres (16 mi) from Purmamarca. Tilcara is a small village with a lively town square, a few bars and restaurants, and plenty of historical and natural sights to adore.

Don’t miss the Pucará de Tilcara, a pre-Inca forti cation on a hill just outside of town.

Monumento a los Hèroes de la independencia, Humahuaca.

Salta

Founded in 1582, Salta is known for its Spanish heritage & colonial architecture.

Salta, capital of Argentina’s Salta Province, lies in the Lerma Valley at 1,152 metres (3,780 feet) above sea level and has a population of well over half a million.

A great start to exploring the streets and architecture of the city is to survey it from above. Board the teleférico (cable car) from Parque San Martín and reach the top of Cerro San Bernardo Hill in less than 10 minutes.

Alternatively, take the trail with many stairs starting at the Güemes Monument, or just drive up by car. At the top of the hill, you will nd a wine bar operated out of a tricked-out bicycle and wagon, and several handicra shops.

Salta’s palm tree lined main square, Plaza 9 de Julio, is surrounded by Spanish colonial architecture, cobblestone streets and cosy cafes. Along the square is Salta’s most recognizable sight, the magni cent lightpink neoclassical Catedral Basílica de Salta with its brilliant red, gold, green, and blue interior.

Also along the square is the whitewashed El Cabildo de Salta, the colonial town hall which nowadays serves as the Historical Museum of the North. e current building was constructed in 1780 while the tower was completed several years later. Since its completion, the building has served many purposes including police headquarters, government house, a private compound, and even a hotel. Since its full restoration in 1945, it is the most complete and best-preserved town hall in all of Argentina.

Sit under the umbrellas outside the El Cabildo and order a cold Salta Cerveza (beer).

As we’re on the long way down to the world’s southernmost town of Ushuaia, we continue southeast of Salta on a rather long detour to the Iguaçu Falls before turning southwest to the nation’s capital, Buenos Aires.

Iguaz Falls

The Iguazú Falls is the largest waterfall system in the world.

The spectacular Iguazú Falls lie over 1,400 kilometres (870 mi) east of Salta on the trijunction of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. e Iguazú River, with a drainage basin of 62,000 km2 (24,000 sq mi), is 1,320 kilometres (820 mi) long.

e falls, which divide the Iguazú River into the upper and lower Iguazú, are the largest waterfall system in the world. While most of the river ows through Brazil, the largest section (about 80%) of the falls is on the Argentinian side. e most impressive of them all is the Devil’s roat U-shaped falls at 80–90 metres (262–295 ) wide and 70–80 metres (229–262 ) high.

While Iguazú Falls, at over 1,600 metres (5,249 ) wide and over 100 metres (328 ) in height, is wider than the Victoria Falls in Southern Africa, the latter has a much larger “solid curtain of falls” in high- ow season. Iguazú is split into roughly 275 distinct falls by river islands and therefore is not a wide solid curtain. Most of them are about 64 metres (210 ) in height.

Iguazú Falls is generally listed as the world’s biggest waterfall, followed by Victoria Falls, Niagara Falls, and Venezuela’s Angel Falls which is also the world’s highest.

While it is easy to watch the plunging waters all day long from several vantage points, there are a lot more things to do at Iguazú Falls than simply to marvel at their beauty.

The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu. Some of the falls are over 80 m (269 ft) in height, though the majority are about 64 m (210 ft).

On the Brazilian side, go on the Macuco Jetboat Safari. At $65 for an adult, this is a speedboat ride you won’t easily forget. e boat takes you right into the Devil’s roat where you run rapids and ride right under the thunderous falls located on the Argentinian side. As you get thoroughly drenched, you will know that you survived a ride underneath one of the world’s greatest waterfalls.

Also on the Brazilian side is the Parque das Aves, where you can get close to several bird species, including toucans, macaws, scarlet ibises, amingos and parrots located in three immersion aviaries. You’ll also nd reptiles such as alligators, anacondas and boas.

Helicopter rides over the falls are available though they are quite pricey. You can also hike, bike, and paddle around the area, in addition to going on a guided jungle safari.

Just 13 kilometres (8 mi) north of the falls is the Itaipu Dam, once billed as the “largest dam project on earth” until

China’s ree Gorges Dam Project overshadowed it. A sunset tour by catamaran is a great way to end your day.

All these activities will work up a good appetite, so try one of the authentic restaurants located in the area of the falls where waiters serve an endless selection of prime meat cuts to your table.

Choose from pork, lamb, chicken and every cut of beef you can think of. Eat as much or as little as you like.

Buenos Aires

Capital and largest city of Argentina, BA is a feast for all the senses.

The road from the Iguazú Falls to the nation’s capital, Buenos Aires, stretches for almost 1,300 kilometres (807 mi) along the border with Brazil and Uruguay. Located south of the Rio de la Plata River on the Atlantic Coast, the name Buenos Aires means “good air”, for a very good reason.

Buenos Aires is a city where you may want to linger for a few days, or even a few weeks or months. Many travellers have come here and stayed for years. Once the city, locally known as BA, is in your blood, it is hard to remove yourself from its loving arms. No wonder some people describe the city as ‘seductive’.

As the capital of Argentina, and also one of the largest cities of South America, the people of BA are known as the “Porteños” or “people of the port”. Considered to be the “pearl city” of South America, it is one of the least expensive cities in the world.

Many travellers visit BA for tango dancing in the streets, the parrilla (BBQ) restaurants, parks such as the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur and the Bosques de Palermo, and the open-air markets. However, BA is best understood and appreciated by knowing, and enjoying its 48 distinctive neighbourhoods known locally as barrios, each with its own personality and special characteristics. e most popular barrios include: e recent decline in the value of the Argentinian Peso has made it even more a ordable, though get in quick before a spike in in ation erodes its a ordability.

• Palermo, BA’s most populated barrio, has a young vibe that attracts expats, foreign visitors and an evergrowing number of porteños (local residents). Here you will nd boundless cafés and restaurants, bars and nightclubs, parks, botanical gardens, a zoo, museums and galleries, shops, and artisan markets. Its tree-lined cobblestone streets are a favourite haunt for backpackers, hipsters, designers and digital nomads. During your visit, you will no doubt end up spending time in Palermo.

• Recoleta is an upscale area with welldressed locals meandering along exclusive avenues and dining in chic cafés and trendy bars. It has countless plazas, parks, museums, the national library, and is home to the Recoleta cemetery, a must-visit for graveyard enthusiasts. Here you will nd the family tomb of Eva Mara Duarte de Perón (aka ‘Evita’), Argentina’s First Lady from 1946 to 1952. e graveyard covers an area of about 55,000 m2 (592,000 sq feet) and is a mini-village of tombs, some lavish while others crumble.

• Puerto Madero is the old port district transformed into a trendy area with hotels and restaurants. Historically, this busy old port was the heart of the city, though it only functioned as a port for about 15 years from 1897. e increasingly large cargo ships quickly rendered the port obsolete and so a new port was opened in 1911. e ships and warehouses have now made space for an upmarket area with high-end night haunts, a rotating footbridge, a oating-ship museum, and the 864-acre Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, popular with birdwatchers.

• Belgrano is one of the largest barrios and is a pleasant neighbourhood for aimless strolling and admiring residential homes. e barrio’s square, Plaza Manuel Belgrano, o ers a weekend artisan fair where locals show o their handicra s and jewellery.

• San Telmo is blessed with cobblestoned streets, colonial buildings with crumbling facades, an amazing weekly street market, and many great restaurants and bars. With a very humble beginning as home to the poor, its past has been le behind. Today San Telmo is a Bohemian enclave dotted with designer boutiques, cafes, tango parlours, and is described by many as the city’s most fashionable barrio. Be here on Sundays when the antique market and street party turns Calle Defensa street into the hippest place in town.

• Monserrat is home to many signicant public buildings and the famous Plaza de Mayo. In fact, the entire city of Buenos Aires was built around the plaza and many of Argentina’s historical events took place here. In 1810, Plaza de Mayo was the focal point of the revolution that triggered the War of Independence against the Spanish colonialists. Surrounding this plaza are historical buildings and architectural masterpieces such as the pink Casa Rosada, o ce of the President of Argentina. Nearby is the Museo del Bicentenario, the Cabildo (Town Hall), the Catedral Metropolitana, Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo y la Revolución de Mayo, and several galleries and churches.

• La Boca sits at the mouth of the Matanza River and is known for its colourful buildings and music, a buzzing barrio where tango dancers rule the streets and houses resemble a painter’s palette, awash with all hues and colours. Caminito, the main street, is every bit as colourful as the La Boca houses, complete with fairs of artists and painters and tango shows. Here you will also nd La Bombonera, the 49,000seat football stadium that is home to the much beloved Boca Juniors team. Don’t miss a match when they are playing on their home turf.

• Caballito is in the geographic centre of the city and a great place to check out the colonial-style mansions on Avenida Rivadavia. Parque Rivadavia has a daily market packed with all kinds of interesting items. Interested in historical tramways? On Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, take a free two-kilometre loop ride on the Tranvía Histórico trams lovingly maintained by Amigos del Tranvía (friends of the tramway) Association.

While BA o ers an array of dining experiences, nothing comes close to dining at the 25-year old Siga la Vaca chain of restaurants, which is exclusively for serious carnivores.

Need a break from the big city? Just 32 kilometres (20 mi) northwest of the city is the town of Tigre, a picturesque town on the banks of the Luján River and the Río de la Plata. e most economical way to Tigre is via the Linea Mitre train which begins at BA’s Retiro station. is is an interesting experience complete with roving onboard merchants selling anything you may need. However, for those who want to travel in style, the 11-station light rail line, Tren de La Costa (Coastal Train), takes tourists to various stops along the river with picturesque views of the Paraná Delta.

Alternatively, go by bus or take a boat trip to Tigre from the barrio of Puerto Madero.

Once in Tigre you can walk around the interesting town, along the river or take a boat tour among the Parana Delta Islands. Don’t miss the Museo de Arte Tigre which is housed in one of Tigre’s most stunning Belle Epoque palaces. e museum focuses on Argentine art from the 19th and 20th centuries by masters such as Antonio Berni, Raúl Soldi, and Eduardo Sivori.