edible Hawaiian Islands Winter 2010

edible

hawaiian islands ®

Celebrating the Harvest of the Aloha State, Season by Season No. 11 Winter 2010

Ag Tourism “The Lavender Story” Ranchers in Hawai`i Spa Hawaiian Style Member of Edible Communities

LETTER of

Aloha We at edible Hawaiian Islands would like to wish everyone a healthy and happy New Year, filled with peace and joy. Now that the holidays are over, we hope this issue will enlighten you with some new easy entertaining and cooking tips—from 11 Steps to Steak to bringing back brunch with mouthwatering recipes.

HAWAI`I IN THE NEWS Three Farms in Hawai`i Are the First To Earn Animal Welfare Approved Seal: Animal Welfare Approved is pleased to announce that Eden Earthworks in Mountain View, Hawai`i Lowline Cattle Company in Honoka`a, and Kaua`i Kunana Dairy on Kaua`i’s North Shore have been awarded the Animal Welfare Approved seal for high-welfare animal husbandry. Animal Welfare Approved is a free certification granted to family farmers adhering to the high animal welfare standards outlined by the nonprofit program. You can read more on our blog; the link is on our website, www.ediblehawaiianislands.com That same site gives you the option to follow us on Facebook or Twitter, and be sure to check out our events page to stay up to date on the many events happening around our islands. Please sign up for our free eNewsletter. This year it will be featuring money-saving specials from our sponsors, as well as delicious recipes. It’s our way to stay in touch in between our quarterly printed issues.

Ahui hou,

Gloria Cohen Publisher/Editor in Chief

4

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

winter 2010 Contents

28

44

Departments

10 Features

4 Letter of Aloha

10 Ranchers in Hawai`i

9 Notable Edibles

18 PANIOLO:

16 Photo Contest winner 32 Cooking fresh

35

The Story of Hawaiian Cowboys 11 Steps to the Perfect Steak

24 Chicken and the Egg On a roll

40 Subscribe

28 Ag Tourism 41 What’s Fresh

The Lavender Story

46 Farmers’ Markets

38 Spa Hawaiian Style

48 Advertisers Directory

44 Following the Ginger Trail on the Big Island

50 what is it & how do you eat it?

Cover photo by John Cox

“Lavender Flan” recipe available on our website. For many more lavender recipes, pick up a copy of The Maui Book Of Lavender or visit www.aliikulalavender.com.

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

5

edible Hawaiian Islands Publisher/Editor in Chief Gloria Cohen Editor at Large Steven Cohen Distribution & Advertising FrontDesk@ediblealoha.com Terry Sullivan on Kaua`i Dania Katz on Maui Contributors Kira Cohen Melissa Petersen Tracey Ryder Carole Topalian Photography Lauren Brandt Oliver Cohen Steven Cohen John Cox G. Natale Artists Cindy Conklin Mary Ogle

Writers Martha Cheng John Cox Jill Engledow Dahlia Haas Jon Letman Sonia R. Martinez G. Natale Tim Ryan Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Research & Events Editor Lila Martin

Contact Us Edible Aloha, PO Box 753, Kilauea, HI 96754 808-828-1559 FrontDesk@EdibleAloha.com • www.EdibleAloha.com Subscribe * Give a Gift * Advertise Call 808-828-1559 or use the above email or web address

Edible Hawaiian Islands is published quarterly by Edible Hawaiian Islands LLC. All rights reserved. Spring * Summer * Fall * Winter Subscription is $28 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Š2010.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error has escaped our attention, please notify us and accept our sincere apologies. Mahalo!

6

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

Photo by G. Natale

Letters For the quickest response, email FrontDesk@EdibleAloha.com

8

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

Photo by S. Cohen

Notable Edibles

Moloka`i

Lana`i

Kanemitsu’s Bakery & Restaurant: The local legend fills the Kaunakakai air with the sweet smell of taro lavosh, along with Moloka`i bread flavors that range from apricot-pineapple to coconut or strawberry, there are classics like wheat, and onion-cheese. You can even take a bit of Moloka`i home with you; you can buy the bread mixes next door. Oh, and the cream cheese and jelly bread is ono. 79 Ala Malama St.: 808-553-5855

Blue Ginger: Owned by Joe and Georgia, this is the favorite local restaurant on Lana`i. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, they are famous for their French toast and their mahi mahi sandwich with capers and mushrooms on homemade bread. Tell them Edible Hawaiian Islands magazine says Aloha. Corner of Seventh Street and Illima Avenue; 808-565-6363

Hawai`i Island

Kaua`i

Chocolate for Your Valentine: Original Hawaiian Chocolate—Artisanal Single-Origin Chocolate, made and grown in Hawai`i. OHC are the first to grow, hand pick, sun dry and process only Hawaiian-grown cocoa beans, non-blended to assure purity and quality. From our favorite Plumeria shaped chocolate gift boxes to recipes, go to their websites for a chocolate dream come true. www.ohcf.us

Princeville Center, on the North Shore: Here you will find everything from shopping, dining and eateries to banking, gifts, real estate and even a hardware store…. A great place to meet up with friends and support the local community.

Maui

O`ahu

Local Food Tours: Tour Da Food Maui offers intimate excursions to Maui’s off-the-tourist-path culinary treasures—restaurants, snack shacks and markets. You’ll come away with a better understanding of Maui’s multicultural community and its history. For reservations and more information, contact Bonnie Friedman, 808-242-8382; www.tourdafood.com

Too busy to go to the Farmers’ Market, Kula Fields now offers home delivery, fresh, natural, locally grown produce delivered to your door.

You will need to sign up and there is a $35 annual membership fee. You can reach them at 808-281-6141 and for more info: www.kulafields.com

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

9

10

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

Ranchers

in Hawai`i

By Martha Cheng

Photo by Martha Cheng

Big Island is home to one of the largest cattle ranches in the United States and yet, walk into any supermarket on O`ahu and even some on the Big Island, and you’d be hard pressed to find local beef. Most cattle in Hawai`i (really, most cattle everywhere in the United States) is sold into the commodity market on the mainland, where it is fattened in feedlots, processed and then sent back to us.

So why not just keep the cattle here—raise, slaughter and sell the beef directly to the local market? Turns out it’s not so simple.

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

11

C

attle ranchers, accustomed to feeding their cattle grain, find it costs less to send their calves to the mainland to be fattened than it does to import grain. With a growing market in grass-fed beef, raising cattle on Hawai`i’s pasture is becoming an option, but it takes longer to fatten a cow on grass, and it requires a shift in ranching practices for some ranchers.

Also, after decades of sending calves to the mainland, the infrastructure for bringing local beef to market no longer exists. But as the mainland price for calves begins to fall, more and more ranchers are looking for ways to keep their cattle in Hawai`i, which can mean more humane standards and commanding a price that actually supports ranchers’ work and families. Here are just a few of the ranchers on the frontier of bringing local beef to consumers.

Jack Spruance, formerly of Pu’u O Hoku Ranch, Moloka`i “I know I want to grow food. There’s no doubt in my mind what I want to do with my life—and I’ve known this since I was a kid—[I want] to grow food.” So says Jack Spruance, former ranch manager of Pu’u O Hoku Ranch on Moloka`i. Over the course of 48 hours I watch him work the many faces of food production. He’s thoroughly knowledgeable of the ranch’s 20-acre organic and biodynamic farm, but animals are his passion. I find him at the Moloka`i Livestock Co-op,

12

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

Moloka`i’s slaughterhouse. He spends a long day in town, overseeing and participating in the kill process and filling out a lot of paperwork, and then he returns to the ranch, to his animals. He greets the calves like a father returning home to his kids, and patiently milks a fussy cow, soothing her as she fidgets and kicks. He works alongside a vegetarian intern on the ranch, but for Spruance, there isn’t an incongruence in the activities of the morning (the slaughter of his cattle) with what he’s doing now. He loves animals, but “I have a responsibility,” he says. “Not just to my animals, but also to feed people.”

I ask him to let me watch him move the cattle to new pastures, envisioning a Wild West scene of a cowboy on horseback, cattle stampeding in front of him. Instead, I find myself in an ATV seated beside Spruance, driving into the paddock. Spruance calls out “cow, coooow, cow, cooooow” and then turns around and drives back out, the cattle plodding along behind us, following him as obediently as children following the Pied Piper. That’s it. Spruance says, “They’re really good cows and they know what they’re doing.… I was taught rough stock handling years ago. And I decided that was not the way. For one, you go financially broke doing it because you gotta have so many cowboys and cowgirls to do the job.… Now, we call them; they follow. It’s all in how you approach an animal.”

When Spruance talks of his grass-finishing program for his cattle, of marbling and tenderness, it feels like he’s talking about a steak on legs.

But in designing his program and hewing as close to nature as possible,

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

13

what ends up being tasty meat for us also translates into a more comfortable life for the cow. “Grass-finished” is a more precise term than “grass-fed” because, technically, all cattle eat grass early in their lives, even those eventually sent to feedlots. The majority of beef cattle are fattened up on grain in their last few months, but Spruance’s cattle are raised solely on grass from the beginning of their lives to their end.

Spruance’s grass-finishing program is based on a whole organism principle, where the animal’s genetics and entire life, from the womb to the very end, are taken into account. He identifies some crucial points: In the second trimester, “it’s important for a cow to have quality feed. That’s when the animal lays down the potential for fat cells.”

Three months after the calf is born is another critical point when it needs a lot of nutrition. Spruance tries to calve in February so that when the calf is weaned in October or November, it’s the beginning of the wet season, and the grass is good. Inevitably, the cow will have to go through a dry season, but at 24 months, when it’s ready for slaughter, it will have eaten another cycle of rainy season grass.

“In a grass-finishing program,” Spruance says, “you gotta really think about that animal—you gotta be able to think about the whole process. Nature is always our model. If you just pay attention to it, it’s going to tell you.”

[Spruance is no longer with Pu’u O Hoku Ranch due to differences in vision with the owner of the ranch, but he is in the process of starting up his own biodynamic farm and livestock operations that will include beef cattle and some dairy animals. With these animals, he writes, “I will continue [start over] my work on genetics for grass-finished animals, pasture improvement, and invasive species control utilizing multi-grazing species.”]

Michelle Galimba, Kuahiwi Ranch, Big Island Michelle Galimba went from a graduate degree in comparative literature from UC Berkeley to roping wild cattle from an abandoned ranch in Volcano, an experience she likens to a scene in Star Wars, racing through Endor’s forest moon on speeder bikes. Because of “the geography of it, the lack of fences, you couldn’t just drive them in,” she says. “So we were out there roping them. Which is a lot of fun. It was just a blast. I love riding horses.”

Galimba cites the reason for returning to her family’s ranch, Kuahiwi Ranch on Big Island, as simply “I just liked being here.” In academia, she felt “this is really not doing anything. I feel like we’re spinning our wheels. From peasant stock, it seemed more real to me to come back and do this stuff.” These days, “this stuff” is not so much roping wild cattle as it is working with domesticated cattle and trying to figure out how to keep beef for the local market rather than shipping calves to mainland feedlots.

14

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

In the past few years, Kuahiwi Ranch has kept back 25 to 40 percent of approximately 2,000 head of cattle to be raised for the local market. According to Galimba, “It’s not a problem raising them. We have enough pasture. We kind of worked out what we do.” The problem then is what happens after the cow has been brought to market weight—bringing it to the slaughterhouse, processing, distribution.

Galimba says, “There are a lot of half-solutions out there. [I’m] just working to connect all the dots.… Just from after you’re done raising the cow, there are 14 critical points where you can totally mess up bringing a live cow to the supermarket shelf. On 14 points they all gotta be jammin’. There’s no room for error with fresh meat. It’s very complicated.”

Cattle at Kuahiwi Ranch spend their whole lives on pasture, but in the last 90 days, the cattle have access to grain. Galimba explains their rationale for finishing the beef on grain: “Straight grass-fed beef is really hard to get consistent. It’s also kind of risky that you’re going to have enough grass to feed them. [Finishing on grain], I pretty much know that it will be tasty and tender.” Because the cattle are still on pasture, even when fed grain, Galimba finds they don’t have any problems with bloat or other symptoms often found in crowded feedlot operations that fatten cattle with grain.

Kay and Ryan Lum, North Shore Cattle Company, O`ahu Because of its population relative to the other Hawaiian islands, the demand for beef—and the potential market for local beef—is greatest in O`ahu. North Shore Cattle Company, started by the late Calvin “Doc” Lum, former state veterinarian, is the only ranch providing locally raised beef on O`ahu. NSCC started because “Cal believed that we should keep the cattle here in Hawai`i and feed our own economy,” says Kay Lum, Doc’s widow.

Though phrases like “farm-to-table” have become diluted as greenmarketing buzzwords, Doc had a very real farmer-chef relationship with chef Alan Wong, the first chef to serve NSCC steaks in his restaurant. The two shared the difficulties of introducing local beef to Honolulu diners, for in the beginning, seven out of 10 plates would come back because the steaks were too tough. While Doc experimented with dry-aging to achieve a more tender product, Wong had to deal with returned plates. Wong says, “I stayed with Doc’s beef because I believed in him. He educated me about the qualities and properties of grass-fed beef, and the benefits, not only for humans who consume it, but for the animals and the land and environment.… Doc and I both knew it was going to be a long process to make people aware of 100 percent grass-

fed beef, both its good points and the quality of the texture of the meat.

If we made it available in a high-end restaurant and people became more exposed to and aware of it, the word would get out as to what 100 percent grass-fed beef represented.”

These days, demand outstrips supply for NSCC, but it’s only 11 years later that it’s starting to turn a profit, indicative of the uphill battle fought to provide Hawai`i with local beef. The Lum family is looking for additional avenues of income, which include agri-tourism and purchasing a mobile slaughterhouse so they can process their own cattle and rent the mobile unit to other livestock farmers. Because slaughter options are few on O`ahu (exactly one at this writing), the existence of a mobile slaughterhouse on O`ahu has the potential to create new opportunities for small ranchers interested in selling meat directly to consumers. The cumulative efforts of these ranchers and many more are all in the hopes that 100 percent Hawai`i-grown beef can become viable.

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

15

“Chicken & Eggs” Photo Contest winner

Winner: Chelsea Johnson. This is what her mom had to say, besides how proud she is of Chelsea: “She is doing her senior project at Maui Prep on photography and art. This is a yearlong process and at the end of the year she will be giving a 20- to 25-minute PowerPoint presentation on her project. She has a scholarship to the Maui Photo Fest and is working as an intern with a photographer. She also had her work on display at the Lahaina Art Society last weekend for the Senior Art Festival. We had a runner up, we loved the photo by Cas Schwabe, we just had to use it, you can see it on page 24.

The next photo contest is “Anything that lives in the sea that you can eat.” Have fun! You may submit two photos for this contest per person. They must be 8.5x11 at 300dpi. Submit to photo editor, Lauren@ediblehawaiianislands.com. By submitting photos you agree that they may be used in Edible Hawaiian Islands magazine and or our website/blog. All published photos will be credited to the artist. Deadline is February 15, 2010. You can see some of our other favorites on our website www.ediblehawaiianislands.com

16

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

17

Photo Courtesty of Island Heritage, Hawaiian Cowboys

PANIOLO: The Story of Hawaiian Cowboys

By John Cox

he crowd surrounding the dusty arena was suddenly silent in disbelief. The laughing and jokes that permeated the air a few minutes earlier had vanished, then a thunderous round of clapping and cheering erupted from the awe-struck spectators as they stumbled to a standing ovation. Against all odds, a long shot from Hawai`i had just defeated all of the hometown favorites, and would soon be recognized as the world’s greatest cowboy.

What Ikuā Purdy accomplished at the 1908 World Rodeo Championships in Cheyenne, Wyoming, is one of the most inspiring stories in sports. Yet even a hundred years later it is a little-known chapter in cowboy history. After weeks on the open ocean, followed by countless hours on stagecoaches and trains, three of Hawai`i’s finest paniolos arrived in town with little more than a change of clothes, ropes and their native tree saddles. Their flamboyant clothing and unfamiliar language made them an instant spectacle on the crowded streets. Not taken seriously, they were begrudgingly given a few unwanted horses and en-

T 18

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

tered into the steer roping competition. Even the event coordinators considered them a novelty and hoped they might boost ticket sales.

Over the next few days Ikuā, Archie Ka`aua and Jack Low worked with the horses in a nearby river, using the resistance of the water to teach the horses their commands, as they had done many times on beaches at home. They tried acclimating themselves to the altitude and cold climate, but Jack developed a bad case of asthma and was unable to compete.

Back home on the Pu`uwa`awa`a Ranch, the three would rope full-grown wild steers. Unlike the largely flat open range of North America, the island ranch was gnarled with lava outcroppings and guava thickets. Dense vines and foliage covered dangerous ravines and the paniolos would get one chance to ambush a group of wild cows, getting a single throw of their lariat to secure an animal before it crashed back into the underbrush. Once roped, the steer would be tied to a tree with a short hand rope and held until it was exhausted enough to be led into a holding pen by two tame animals. (This method is called Po’o Waiu and, while no longer used in commercial ranching, is

Photo Courtesty of Island Heritage, Hawaiian Cowboys still practiced at local rodeos.) In this adverse environment the Hawaiian cowboys quickly learned to become adept with their ropes and quick on their feet.

The day of the event was cold and overcast. Ikuā hit the ring with ferocious determination. His borrowed horse exploded through the gate, quickly gaining ground on the large steer. The coiled lariat snaked through the air and around the horns, bringing the steer to an abrupt stop. Within 56 seconds the steer had been roped and tied to the horn of the tree saddle, a new event record.

Though this may have been a shock to the local audience, there was good reason for the paniolos’ dominance. After all, the cowboy lifestyle was thriving on the islands several decades before it emerged in the United States.

In 1793 Captain George Vancouver brought five black longhorn cattle, likely the El Corriente variety, to Hawai`i from Spanish California. The animals were weak and malnourished from the long voyage and King Kamehameha immediately set them free to graze the island. He also established a Kapu, or forbidden status, for them, prohibiting anyone from touching the animals. Over the next 10 years the original five cattle made themselves at home on the island and multiplied into a thriving herd. These wild cows soon began to torment the island, decimating local plants and stampeding through villages.

John Parker, the great-grandfather of Ikuā Purdy, was a young sailor when he first jumped ship in Hawai`i in 1809. He gained the respect of King Kamehameha before boarding a ship bound for China.

Three years later Parker returned to the island, this time bringing with him a musket. His exotic stories and magnanimous personality won the heart of Kipikane, one of the king’s granddaughters. They were given a small parcel of land and were granted permission to hunt the invasive feral cattle, now numbering in the thousands.

Over the next few years Parker cultivated a strong business trading salted-dried meat, tallow and hides to whalers and visiting trade ships. Demand became so strong that he was unable to keep up and pe-

titioned the king to help him bring vaqueros from Mexico to help maintain the herd and teach locals how to ride horses. These Spanish cowboys arrived in 1832, bringing with them a unique culture and language that are still strongly reflected on the islands.

The native Hawaiians were fascinated by the paniolos’ strange instrument, the guitar. It is said that the paniolos would leave their instruments untuned to deter the locals from using them. This likely led to the creation of the ukulele. Spanish influence can also be seen in the traditional ruffled sleeves of local dresses.

John established Parker Ranch in 1847. Covering over 150,000 acres, it is still one of the largest and oldest ranches in the country.

Perched high above the ocean, the land was too arid and cold to be of interest to the locals, but proved perfect for raising cattle. In addition to the ranching operation, Parker cultivated a thriving orchard, raised pigs, created a centralized processing center and supported the community by making fresh water more accessible. His conservative Christian upbringing also led him to build churches in nearby communities.

With the introduction of organized ranching, Hawai`i’s primary export changed from sandalwood to beef. Ranchers would frequently swim cows out to waiting cargo ships to transport them to other islands.

The three paniolos who dominated the Cheyenne Rodeo returned to Hawai`i and their work on the ranch—they would never again leave the islands. Vast ranches still cover much of Maui and the Big Island.

Modern paniolos, many of whom are descendents of John Parker, carry on the ranching tradition. Though pickup trucks and quads have largely replaced horses, and the flamboyant dress of the original paniolos has long been retired, their heart and determination remain the same. You can still sometimes see a herd of wild black cows grazing along the road in Kaupo and easily let yourself imagine being back in the “real Wild West.”

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

19

For more about Paniolos check out these books from Hawaiian Heritage at a bookseller near you.

Hawaiian Cowboys A Photographic Journal

By Michael McClure & Dr. Billy Bergin Published by Island Heritage Publishing $22.95 For the Keiki—Ka`imi’s First Round-up

By Ilima Loomis Illustrated by Don Robinson Published by Island Heritage Publishing $11.95

20

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

21

11 Steps to the Perfect Steak

By John Cox

Pick the right steak. Generally speaking, the tougher the cut of meat the more flavor. For instance, you can cut the tenderloin with a spoon—but it will lack the flavor of a skirt steak or tri-tip, which require more jaw power. Your choice really depends on your personal preference. I love a steak with some personality, preferably one that still has some bone and fat attached. Try to find one with good marbling (the white speckles or spider web of fat within the meat). Try to avoid sinew, which looks like a sharp dark line or silver ribbon. Many home chefs look for the leanest steak in the case, never realizing that the fat in a well-marbled steak not only improves “mouthfeel” but also enhances the meat’s ability to absorb the aromatics it is cooked in. I’m using a bone-in “cowboy cut” rib eye for the photos.

2. Remove the steak from its packaging and put it on a plate. Season heavily with freshly ground black pepper and kosher salt. (Approximately 70 percent of this seasoning will be lost in the pan—so season accordingly.)

3. Let the steak sit out at room temperature for half an hour. This will allow the meat to absorb some of the seasoning and also keep it from rapidly contracting when it hits the hot pan.

4. Put your pan on medium heat. I like to use a cast-iron pan—but any heavy-bottomed sauté pan will work. When you use a thin pan, the steak will cool down the cooking surface and will start releasing water before the meat is browned. Let the pan sit on the heat for two or three minutes.

5. Spoon a tablespoon of vegetable oil or clarified butter into the pan. Put the steak into the pan.

6. Don’t touch. Let the steak sit in the pan undisturbed for 4–5 minutes. Watch the bottom edge for slight browning, and wait for a pleasant caramelized smell to emerge.

7. Once you have noticed the bottom edges starting to brown, pour the oil into a container and set to the side. Replace the oil with a pat of whole butter. This will help cool down the pan and the butter solids will brown and add to the steak’s natural flavor.

8. Flip the steak. At this point you can add any number of aromatics. I like thinly sliced Maui onions, garlic cloves, thyme and rosemary.

9. Now that you have the butter and aromatics in the pan, take a large metal spoon and start to baste the top of the steak. Turn the heat on the pan down to low and continue to baste until the onions are well browned.

10. If everything has been done properly there will be a dark crust starting to form on the bottom of the pan. These are caramelized sugars from the steak and onions and they retain lots of flavor. Do everyone (including whoever is doing the dishes) a favor: If you are drinking a red wine with dinner, pour a few ounces into the pan.

You can also use sherry or Madeira for this step. Now scrap the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon— firmly enough for the pan to come clean. Reduce the wine until it begins to glaze the steak.

11. Season with a touch of sea salt and serve—using the natural jus from the pan as a sauce.

22

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

Photos by John Cox

1.

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

23

Photo by Cas Schwab

24

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

Chicken and the Egg

On a roll

By Jon Letman

O

f all the “Hawaiian” foods one could conjure, eggs typically don’t make the list. Yet what kitchen or restaurant in the Islands lacks them, and how would one enjoy malasadas, bibimbap, tamago yaki, baked manju or butter mochi without the indispensable egg?

Ethnohistoric records are inconclusive, but some scholars suspect pre-contact Hawaiians probably ate hua moa (chicken eggs), at least occasionally. After all, when the first Polynesian settlers crossed the ocean in outrigger canoes crowded with chickens, dogs and pigs, it seems reasonable to assume the birds weren’t brought along just for their shrill song and colorful plumage.

If you’re on a budget (and who isn’t these days?) eggs offer an inexpensive, high-protein, quick, hot meal that is versatile enough to serve on sushi, to hungry toddlers or tucked into a bento for a day at the beach. But if your eggs were shipped thousands of miles from a mainland farm, they could be as much as two weeks old. By the time they hit your frying pan they may have been reduced to flat, pale plops of protein—eggs in name only.

As any locavore will tell you, the freshest, tastiest eggs come from the chicken next door, or at least the henhouse down the road.

There are four large commercial egg producers with over 10,000 birds in the state, all on O`ahu. The oldest (and smallest) of these is Peterson’s Upland Farm in Wahiawa. Started by James Hopper Peterson Sr. in 1910, the farm began by supplying dairy products to nearby Schofield Barracks. Gradually the chicken side of the farm overtook dairy production and today, the fourth generation of Petersons helps care for some 11,000 egg-producing hens, supplying family kitchens all over the island.

Sharon Peterson Cheape, who runs the farm with her father, James Jr., and Uncle Alan, says they keep a roughly two-to-one mix of White Leghorns and Rhode Island Reds.

Besides labor costs, the Petersons’ number one expense is feed.

Without the physical space to grow adequate amounts of corn, soy, barley and other ingredients used in chicken feed, Peterson’s (like other egg farmers in Hawai`i) must import from the mainland.

Peterson Cheape says the farm uses antibiotic- and hormone-free feed with the goal of raising healthier, more natural eggs. She explains that nutritionally there is no difference between white and brown eggs,

even though she has heard people falsely claim “brown eggs have no cholesterol” or that brown eggs have a richer, creamier yolk.

“Mostly it’s sentimentality,” she says. “People tend to have a fondness for brown-shell eggs because they remember them from their childhood.”

Brown-shell eggs are also consistently more expensive than white shells no matter where you buy them simply because the producers, Rhode Island Reds, are larger birds that cost more to maintain.

One long-time customer at Peterson’s Upland Farm is chef Alan Wong, who grew up just outside of Wahiawa. He remembers visiting the farm as a young boy once a week to buy eggs with his parents. It was his job to wash the dirty eggs.

Today, the award-winning chef and restaurateur uses eggs from Peterson’s for breakfasts and loco moco dishes. Besides enjoying a fresher, better-tasting egg that “sits nice and high,” Wong feels it is important to support local agriculture.

“The theory is simple: If we don’t buy local, these farmers and producers are not going to remain in business. The mom-and-pop places will slowly disappear until there’s nothing left but chains and big-box stores,” Wong says.

Beyond the “big four” egg farms, small family operations and backyard chicken farmers are springing up around the state. One such place is Hulukea Farm, operated by Damon and Margo Gill on Maui’s west side. Margo explains that when she and her husband bought and built their home on ag-zoned land in the West Maui mountains, they knew that meant farming.

“We felt strongly that we wanted to fulfill our end of the ag deal,” she says. Starting with just a handful of chicks—around 10—in half a dozen years Hulukea has grown to around 70 chickens evenly divided between Black Stars and Rhode Island Reds.

Besides living up to their ag-parcel agreement, Gill says raising chickens for eggs is just a good, healthy way for her family to live.

“First of all, it’s food. All our green waste goes to the chickens, which eat everything. They give us eggs and we take the manure and add it to our compost so we are constantly recycling. Shells, eggs and manure are all put to use and, when older birds have outlived their egglaying years, the chickens themselves provide sustenance, making Hulukea Farm a model of sustainability.” www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

25

26

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

According to her, there’s great potential for countless families in Hawai`i to raise their own hens, which in time, she says, could evolve into a co-op where eggs could be gathered, graded, packaged and marketed by a central body, leaving small farmers to concentrate on caring for their birds.

Doug and Sabina Pittman, owners of Kona Hawk Farm in South Kona also raise several hundred hens on their five-acre farm where they grow macadamia nuts, avocados and coffee. Like other egg farmers in Hawai`i, the high cost of imported feed is their biggest hurdle. Unfortunately, no one makes feed in Hawai`i and the omnivorous chickens require a high-protein diet to help balance out what they don’t get from weeds, grass, bugs and scraps.

The Pittmans sell their eggs by the dozen at the Keauhou Farmers’ Market every Saturday morning. She says that once her customers make the switch from mainland to local eggs, there is no going back.

Although she and her husband had experience raising hens in California, Pittman says self-education on the basics of egg production isn’t terribly difficult. “We did all this online. Just learn what chickens like, what they need, and do it safely. You can’t just keep a chicken in a cage,” she says.

Anyone on Kaua`i will tell you the same. Not only can chickens not be confined to cages, on the Garden Island they can’t even be kept on farms. Outside the post office, roaming the grounds of beachside resorts, and prowling the parking lot outside the mayor’s office, Kaua`i’s

Photo by S. Cohen

The Gills sell their modest daily take of eggs by word of mouth, and to friends and neighbors. But between the dramatically increasing cost of feed and the labor required, egg farming is definitely not a huge money maker. Still yet, Gill says they manage to break even, adding “chickens are pretty cool and there’s just something earthy and special about a nice, brown egg.”

Also on West Maui, raising around 200 hens on her tropical fruit orchard, is Theo Morrison. She says that while there is no technical definition of “free-range,” she thinks her chickens are about as close as they come, using the term “pastured hens.” The birds move freely within the orchard and have a small portable shelter that follows them around the property.

Using chicks from the mainland, and on O`ahu when available, Morrison says her goal is to support local agriculture. Ultimately, she would like to see small egg producers take advantage of the large swaths of unused, marginal land around the state to raise more egg-laying hens.

Morrison says that to do so would put otherwise unused lands to good use producing food, increase productivity in the soil through scratching and droppings, and when the hens are no longer productive, provide food to hungry families one pot at a time.

“I am adamant that West Maui should feed West Maui,” Morrison says.

feral fowl are everywhere. And this on an island that doesn’t even have a commercial egg operation or distributor.

This leaves Kaua`i residents to buy eggs in supermarkets or large chain stores, except for those intrepid souls inclined to raise their own eggs. Linda Bothe of Kalāheo is one such person.

“Someone gave me three wild pest chickens. One was blind and mean, so I let her go, but the other two are good.”

Bothe constructed a pen for the two birds she calls Henny and Penny and supplies them with fresh grass and feed. In exchange she gets an egg or two daily—just enough for a few omelets a week.

“The eggs are marvelous,” says Bothe, a nutritionist. “They are small, but the yolks are bright orange and they sit right up.” Besides the eggs, the hens have helped alleviate a recent infestation of grasshoppers and will enthusiastically gobble down menacing centipedes as if they were “a lobster dinner.”

Before starting her own personal egg operation Bothe, who was a 4-H poultry leader prior to coming to Hawai`i, admits she didn’t expect much of the eggs but has been pleasantly surprised.

Asked if she sees potential for more people to raise their own egg hens, Bothe exclaims, “Oh, goodness yes! We are overrun with chickens so it would be very helpful. But you’ve got to be fast. They’re not easy to catch.”

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

27

Ag Tourism

The Story

Lavender

By Jill Engledow

W

ith such a wide variety of products, you might think that Ali`i Kula Lavender Farm had a secret tribe of menehune, those legendary little folk who worked nights building fishponds and roads in days of old. The fragrant farm on the slopes of Maui’s Mount Haleakala sells dozens of products, from mouthwatering sweets and savory seasonings to scented soaps and creamy lotions.

But the creative hands that make Ali`i Kula Lavender’s many products actually belong to regular human beings at businesses across the state. AKL owners Ali`i Chang (the farmer) and Lani Medina Weigert (the marketing expert) made the decision long ago to focus on what they do best: growing lavender and telling the world about it.

Rather than make new products, they seek out partners who are specialists in their own fields. Drawing on their cultural tradition as native Hawaiians, Chang and Weigert choose to prosper by sharing.

“We found that the old adage ‘It takes a village to raise a child’ was appropriately revised to ‘It takes a village to raise a business,’“ says Weigert. “We found the old way of collaboration was a key to survival in tough economic times. Having our products manufactured by over 25 Hawai`i businesses allows us to offer a quality Hawai`i product and increase revenue for our collaborative partners through our marketing efforts.”

One delicious collaboration is with Ono Gelato, which produces lavender chocolate gelato and lavender lemonade sorbet for AKL. Both chocolate and lemonade are great combined with lavender, so the products are popular at the Kula farm. Ono Gelato also carries AKL’s lavender culinary products—things like honey, scone mix and fudge sauce—in its Paia and Lahaina shops. “It’s great cross promotion,” says Ono Gelato owner Valerie Kane, “and they are great to work with. We 28

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

like to support local business, and the lavender farm does such a good job that it’s easy to put our name with theirs.”

And then there’s that fudge sauce. Anyone who has visited the farm’s shop knows the temptation to go back for more than one sample of Lavender Fudge Sauce. The Hawaiian Fudge Sauce Company of Kapolei makes the sauce exclusively for AKL. “This has definitely made a positive impact on our business,” says company owner Dan Belmont. “Our products are unique, and whenever we can expand the product line with another flavor our sales will increase. Ali`i Kula Lavender consistently orders our product. They also export it to Japan.”

Those sweet treats, and the benefits collaboration offers to their producers, are just part of how AKL works with others. The farm’s outreach goes far beyond its business partnerships.

Weigert is president of the Hawai`i AgriTourism Association. Agritourism is an idea that’s catching on, she says, with more than 75 agricultural tourism operations in the state. On Maui alone, there are the Kapalua Farm and Maui Gold Pineapple tour, the Oo Organic Farm lunch tour, the Tedeschi Winery, various flower and farm tours and, of course, Ali’i Kula Lavender.

Weigert uses her experience in developing the lavender farm to teach others how agri-tourism connects farmers and visitors to educational, interactive activities and helps farms generate revenue through value-added products. Turning fruits and vegetables into items such as jams, jellies or sauces helps farmers keep their agriculture operations and the industry viable, Weigert says. And agri-tourism supports the tourism industry by offering visitors an authentic experience.

One Hawai`i farmer who has learned a lot from Weigert is Kylie Matsuda, whose family are co-owners of Kahuku Farms on O`ahu’s North Shore. They first became aware of Ali`i Kula Lavender when

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

29

Kylie’s father, Melvin, visited the Kula farm soon after it opened. “He came home really excited about the concept of it,” Kylie Matsuda says. She gave Weigert a call and asked if she would be willing to meet and offer some advice. “She was very open and welcoming,” Matsuda says, and Weigert has continued to help out in any way she can, especially with branding and marketing. “Lani is a marketing genius!”

Matsuda says.

One key lesson from Weigert is that farmers can use AKL’s techniques to develop an agri-tourism experience with any product; it does not have to be lavender. Kahuku Farms has been able to adapt the lessons learned at AKL to its own fruit and vegetable products, developing several value-added products and working its way through the complicated process of obtaining permits necessary to offer farm tours.

AKL is looking to the future of farming as well, working with youngsters from elementary to college age. Every year, the farm works with the Maui County Farm Bureau in a program called Ag in the Classroom, cosponsored by the Maui Economic Development Board.

“AKL is always there to support Maui County Farm Bureau in our educational efforts to get kids to working farms,” says Warren K. Watanabe, the bureau’s executive director. “Going on five years, AKL 30

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

and several other farm operations have been solid partners in our Ag in the Classroom annual field trip where we host more than 500 secondgrade students over two days on a commercial farm in Kula Ag Park.

We work together to ensure that Maui kids are introduced to farming, because it’s important for kids to meet and see real farmers and to see food, flower and other crops in the ground. We connect kids, teachers and parents to the important role of agriculture in our community.”

A special treat for these second graders: Potting up their own little lavender plants to take home from their Ag Park visit.

And Maui Community College Culinary Academy students benefit in several ways from working with the lavender farm, says Program Coordinator Chris Speere. Academy students contributed their cooking skills to the annual plein air “paintout,” in which artists scatter across the farm one day during the summer lavender bloom. Students from the academy’s Gourmet Travel Club prepared Fettuccine with Spring Vegetables and Roasted Chicken and Garlic Cream Sauce and used proceeds from their sales to fund an 11-day excursion to San Francisco and the Napa Valley to enhance their understanding of the vibrant restaurant and wine industries in California.

Photo by John Cox

We work together to ensure that Maui kids are introduced to farming, because it’s important for kids to meet and see real farmers and to see food, flower and other crops in the ground.

“Over the years, MCA has enjoyed a wonderful working relationship with Ali`i Kula Lavender,” Speere says. “Both Lani and Ali`i serve as role models for students involved in our academy’s New & Value-Added Food Product Development Center. They have learned the finer points of marketing and sales, advertising and promotion by observation and shared knowledge from the team at AKL. Lani has always included our academy in events that would serve to strengthen our students’ learning and showcase our program to our island community.

“I personally rely on Lani to keep our program abreast with the current trends in the agri-tourism industry and look to her leadership in opening doors and new opportunities for all specialty food producers in Hawai`i,” Speere says. AKL also provides a yearly cash donation from sales of Lavender Chocolate Truffles to a scholarship fund for the program’s most deserving students. “We cherish our partnership with AKL,” Speere says. “It continues to bring new learning and muchneeded financial resources to our academy and its students.”

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

31

COOKING

fresh Brunch Is Back!

By Dahlia Haas

nviting friends for Sunday brunch is my new favorite way to entertain.

Imagine twinning breakfast and lunch into an easy make-ahead feast. The plan is to make a few fabulous recipes that won’t require my eagle-eye attention during the party. If I shop and prep everything on Saturday, then my weekend feels somewhat stress-free. By Sunday, I’m ready to start cooking and eager to get the party started.

The farmers’ market is the right place to shop for ready-made goodies. I can’t go home without fresh sweet coconut granola, loaves of nut breads, coffee cakes, cookies and macaroons and homemade ruby-red surimin jam and strawberry guava jelly. My culinary shopping spree includes every exotic tropical fruit for slicing, plus pomelos, tangelos and passion fruit for fresh juice. For the coffee and tea bar, I snap up a variety of roasted private reserve coffee beans and my favorite green and lavender tea. Who can resist the fresh goat cheese with such different toppings like basil-flavored hummus and sun-dried tomato pesto? Without too much effort on my part, I have gathered a festive array of top-quality products, in a true locavore style!

When the weather gets chilly, my antidote is a heartwarming elixir, Coconut Ginger Chicken Soup, and three hearty composed winter salads: an Asian Shrimp Noodle Bowl layered with cool crunchy greens and thin rice noodles in a light, lemony dressing; Chinese Chicken Salad restyled with ingredients that Snap!

Crackle! And Crunch! The real star of the trio is the Fire-Cracker Steak Hand Rolls. They are sweet and salty, fun to make and eat. This recipe sings to me.

Everyone rolls his own, in crisp ruffled lettuce leaves, with slivers of colorful peppers and Maui onions.

With a little help from the talented artisans at our farmers’ market and this easy menu, put on your Sunday dress and enjoy yourself. The best part is being with friends and eating too. Don’t be surprised: More often than not, cozy afternoons like this can stretch straight into the dinner hour. Be prepared, have all the fixings you’ll need to make stacks of pancakes to go with the Fire-Cracker Steak with fried eggs!

I

Food styling and Photography by Dahlia Haas & Nurit Aeina

32

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

CHINESE CHICKEN SALAD Chinese Chicken Salad is a universally loved dish. For a change, place a big portion of the dressed salad between two crispy wonton skins, one per person. Then diners chop up the bottom layer of the wonton skin together with the salad. It’s pretty cool… and tastes incredible too.

Makes 6–8 servings Ginger Dressing: 2 teaspoon dry mustard 2 tablespoons sugar 4 teaspoons soy sauce 6 tablespoons rice vinegar 4 tablespoons ginger, minced 1 tablespoon sesame oil 2/3 cup oil Salad Ingredients Mai Fun noodles 12 large wonton skins Macadamia nut oil or coconut oil to fry 4 scallions, sliced ½ each red and yellow pepper, finely diced 4 cups of shredded lettuce and Napa cabbage 12 ounces roasted shredded chicken, skinless

Place all the dressing ingredients except for the oils in a blender and whirl until smooth.

Add oil drop by drop on a low pulse until the dressing is thick and emulsified.

Break Mai Fun noodles into 3-inch-long pieces. Pour oil into a wok about 4 inches deep. Heat on a high flame. When hot, dip a portion of the noodles into the hot oil— they will puff in a few seconds. Use two spoons to turn over all the noodles so they cook evenly. Remove from oil as soon as crackly and place on a paper towel to drain.

Place wonton skins on a cutting board and cut into 6-inch circles with a biscuit cutter. Fry in the hot oil till crisp and lightly browned on both sides. Remove from oil and drain.

Place scallion, peppers, shredded chicken, mixed greens and cabbage in a large bowl and lightly toss the salad with just enough dressing to moisten the leaves To serve: Place salad between 2 crispy wonton skins and garnish the tops with the fried Mai Fun noodles. www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

33

ASIAN SHRIMP NOODLE BOWL Everything in this salad is addictive and healthful, even the dressing! You can make this salad in individual bowls, one per person, or in one gorgeous salad bowl. I love to make this salad with fresh tuna poke as well. Give the poke a quick stir-fry just before serving and don’t forget serve the salad with chopsticks. Makes 6–8 servings Dressing 2 garlic cloves, minced ½ teaspoon red chili flakes ½ cup sugar ½ cup fish sauce 8 tablespoons lemon juice 1 cup water Put the ingredients into a jar with a lid and shake well to mix. Set aside.

Salad Ingredients 1 package saifun noodles 18 large shrimp, cooked 5 cups mixed lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces 2 cups mung bean sprouts 2 Asian pears, thinly sliced 2 medium cucumbers, thinly sliced 1/3 bunch fresh mint leaves, stemmed 3 carrots, peeled and sliced into coins 1 daikon radish, peeled and sliced into coins Macadamia nuts, roasted and chopped Cook the saifun noodles as directed on the package; drain well in a strainer. Layer the salad ingredients, except the macadamia nuts, in a large salad bowl.

Gently toss with just enough dressing to moisten the leaves; garnish with the macadamia nuts.

34

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

COCONUT GINGER CHICKEN SOUP Soup is comfort food. This wonderful recipe is a combination of chicken soup with fresh Hawaiian ingredients. You can easily change out the chicken, adding any of your favorite diced vegetables or shrimp to create a new flavor of your own. Makes 6–8 servings 1 tablespoon coconut oil 1 cup onion, minced 6 cloves of garlic, minced 6 chicken thighs, cut in 1 inch cubes Heat oil in a medium stockpot over a medium flame. When hot, add the onion and garlic, sauté till softened and lightly browned, stirring well, then add chicken and quickly stir-fry till just done. Don’t over-cook. Remove mixture from the pan and set aside in a bowl.

Coconut lemongrass broth: Makes 6 cups 2 tablespoons coconut oil 1 cup onion, diced 4 stalks lemongrass, plain parts only, crushed 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 whole Thai or Serrano chilies, stemmed not seeded ¼ cup ginger, minced 6 cups vegetable stock 10 ounces coconut milk, canned Juice of 2 lemons ½ teaspoon red chili flakes 4 tablespoons fish sauce Saifun noodles, cooked as directed Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste In the same pan, heat oil over a medium flame, add onion, garlic, chilies and ginger, sauté and stir till mixture is softened and lightly browned (about 5 minutes); add the rest of ingredients, except the saifun noodles; simmer, covered, for 30 minutes till broth is well flavored. Remove from heat, strain broth through a strainer, discard the solids and return the broth to the saucepan.

Add the saifun noodles and cooked chicken, simmer for 10 minutes on a low flame, season with salt and pepper.

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

35

FIRECRACKER STEAK HAND ROLLS The ingredients in the marinade create a sweet and succulent flavor. I love the meat rolled in soft lettuce; you can also make it hearty and bundle the sliced meat and greens into soft warm buns. Makes 10–12 rolls

1¼ cups dark brown sugar 1 cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil 2 teaspoons crushed red chili flakes 4 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 4-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 2 pounds flank steak 1 head butter lettuce, washed and thoroughly dried 2 scallions, separated into thin strands ½ each red and yellow pepper, thinly sliced ½ Maui onion, thinly sliced

36

winter 2010

Whisk together brown sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, chili flakes, garlic, ginger and ¼ cup water in large bowl. Add the flank steak and toss to coat. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let marinate for at least 1 hour at room temperature, or refrigerate overnight, turning occasionally to coat.

Heat barbecue. Remove steak from marinade, and grill the steak to desired doneness. Remove from the grill, place on a cutting board and let sit to set juices.

To serve, place slices of steak into the lettuce and garnish with the pepper and Maui onion slices.

edible hawaiian islands

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

37

Photo by Tim Ryan

Spa Hawaiian Style

By Tim Ryan

38

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

ave you ever wondered why aromatherapy is so popular? Because it makes sense!

OK, now that I have your attention…The spa business is no laughing matter. It’s experienced dramatic growth worldwide in the last decade and Hawai`i is no exception to this phenomenon.

Could the hysteria of social networking, a suffering economy and other issues not in our control be related to the need for aromatherapy, pineapple pedicures and taro rubs? (According to the American Medical Association, stress is a factor in more than 75 percent of illnesses today. With so many things competing for our attention, it’s difficult to find the time to care for ourselves.)

There were more than 18,000 spas in United States in June 2008; a year earlier there were 14,600 spas—equating to a 24 percent growth. The number of spa locations in the U.S. alone has grown an annual average of 20 percent in the last eight years, according to the International Spa Association.

Hawai`i figures are not available but every major resort here, including the Four Seasons Maui and Hualalai on the Big Island, the renovated Mauna Kea Resort, Halekulani, Westin Moan Surfrider, Royal Hawaiian, and the new relabeled St. Regis Princeville have either revamped or built new world-class spas. This doesn’t even include the dozens of boutique spas that have opened in Hawai`i in the last five years.

H

“Visiting a spa is becoming a lifestyle rather than a luxury for guests,” said Bridget Phillips, director of The Halele’a (House of Joy) Spa at the St. Regis Princeville Resort on Kauai.

The 11,000-square-foot Halele’a Spa offers well-heeled guests “tailored and personalized service” while “embracing” Kaua`i’s natural resources and authentic Hawaiian healing, Phillips emphasizes.

“We’re guided by the Hawaiian concept of the Ahupua’a, a philosophy of living in balance with nature,” she says.

The spa has 12 treatment rooms with a dedicated room for couples’ services featuring an experiential cascading shower for two, Vichy treatments and a VIP Maile treatment room. Each treatment room has custom native Hawaiian woods, palm wood floors, natural fiber drapery treatments and a custom Murano glass plumeria flower chandelier.

Specialized Hawai`i-designed treatments include the Kaua`i Taro clay wrap, the Taro butter Pohaku hot stone massage and the Voyage from the Sea Signature Four Hands massage and facial where guests can enjoy a seaweed extract massage and marine repair facial treatment simultaneously. (Traditional Hawaiian medicine includes the use of both botanical and ocean-related resources and Kaua`i’s fresh and saltwater water sources.)

It’s common knowledge that spas are places where you can receive a wide range of health and beauty treatments designed to relax and relieve us from stress and strain.

“Most everyone is on call professionally 24-7,” added Phillips.

“Spas are more popular because they provide relaxation from this other frantic lifestyle.”

The word spa is derived from Latin solus per aqua, which means health through water.

The spa concept of immersing the body of the person in water to restore and maintain health is considered “very important to life,” said Becky Leuluai, director of Spa Luana at the O`ahu’s Turtle Bay Resort.

(Sebastian Kneipp, the father of hydrotherapy, believed that water and herbs mixed in the right combination could be used to cure any illness.)

That may be a stretch but today’s modern lifestyle has made people feel sick, stressed and exhausted, Leuluai says.

“To maintain a balanced diet, regular exercise and adequate rest is a challenge for all of us,” she added. “A spa’s entire purpose is to help eliminate or at least diminish that stress.”

Though spa owners may be loath to admit it, while the environment and ambience of resort spas vary, they all deliver the same basic menu of services: massages, facials and other skin and body treatments like pedicures and manicures. Some spas are dedicated to specific health aspects like weight loss or back pain treatment.

Differences in these generic services likely reflect the region, which is certainly true in Hawai`i where indigenous products are used in oils, aroma therapy, body treatments, even the use of local fresh and ocean water.

Hawai`i spa mission statements from Princeville to Hualalai are also pretty much the same: Devotion to the overall well-being of guests through a variety of professional services that “renew the mind, body and spirit,” says Spa Luana’s Leuluai.

The spa’s “responsibility is to work with the natural world to promote its healing properties while conducting business in a way that sustains the life of our planet and people,” she says.

Spa Luana “treats “the body, mind and spirit” to be in harmony… true health as nature intended,” Leuluai says. “And the first step in achieving this harmony is to relax.”

Spa Luana’s signature services include using Hawai`i’s indigenous fruits and plants for the Coconut Body Scrub, Noni Wrap, Hawaiian Clay Ti Leaf Ritual, Coconut Scalp Treatment and a unique Pineapple Pedicure.

For this pedicure, guests sit oceanfront soaking their feet in warm coconut milk, kukui nut oil, red algae salt, crushed pineapple and island bee honey. The St. Regis Halele’a Spa uses taro in some its treatments. “Everybody has a hot stone massage, but we have a hot stone massage which uses taro butter,” Phillips boasts.

But spa customers are a fickle bunch with searching for that new treatment, products or elixir to make them feel relaxed, invigorated or young again. Or all of the above.Some spa directors believe the industry’s future is in providing a place for “multiple gratification.”

Halele’a (House of Joy) Spa this month (January) will introduce a coffee berry drink—Kona Red—created by a local vendor for the special spa treatment Hawaiian Coffee Cherry Facial. The berry contains anti-aging properties, Phillips says.

“We will be serving that drink with the treatment,” she says. “You go in to get a facial but you also get turned on to this drink, something you can purchase in retail to use it at home.”

Aveda Hoala: An Aveda Lifestyle Salon Spa in Honolulu remains true to the company’s philosophy “to provide health and wellness for guests” in many various forms, says manager Lititia Thomas.

Since the spa opened its doors several years ago, the trend at her Ala Moana Center location has been toward more customized massage treatments like the popular Elemental Nature Massage.

“We had Swedish, deep tissue Shiatsu, and people would call us and ask which one they needed,” Thomas says. “So we decided to create a massage treatment that incorporates any of these techniques.”

When the guest arrives there’s consultation with the therapist to determine what techniques will be used, including what aromas “to help balance the different elemental natures in the body,” Thomas says.

Aveda’s Chakra Balancing Massage—another popular choice— merges massage and guided meditation with Chakra Balancing Blend aromas to open and balance the chakras—energy centers of the body, Thomas says. This treatment features deep tissue massage on the back and spinal muscles and energy work for “the chakras.”

“Our philosophy is to care for the world, from the products we make to the way we give back to society,” Thomas says. “That’s why our salon products use only plant-derived ingredients and are all organically certified.”

Spas, Phillips proselytizes, are “the paths to show guests all these wonderful things to enrich their lives with some things they can incorporate into their every day lifestyle.

“That’s good for anyone.”

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

39

WHY SUBSCRIBE?

WE’RE WORKING HARD TO BRING YOU ALL THE LOCAL FOOD STORIES.

SUBSCRIBE

TODAY.

n Yes, I want to become a subscriber to Edible Hawaiian Islands. I have filled out the form below and am sending it, along with my check made payable to Edible Hawaiian Islands. in the amount of $28 (for 4 issues) to: Edible Hawaiian Islands. PO Box 753, Kilauea, HI 96754.

Start my subscription with the

n current n next issue

You may photocopy this form.

h h h Gift Subscriptions Available h h h

Name: Address:

Just fill out this card and send it in. We’ll make sure you don’t miss a single, mouthwatering issue.

Or visit us online at: ediblehawaiianislands.com

40

winter 2010

City:

State:

Zip:

email (optional): For more information or to submit story ideas, call or email us at: 808-828-1559, or info@ediblehawaiianislands.com.

Edible Hawaiian Islands is published quarterly by Edible Hawaiian Islands LLC. Telephone: 808-828-1559. Distribution is throughout the state of Hawai`i and nationally by subscription. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $28 annually. Published in April, July, October and December. Call the number above to inquire about advertising rates, deadlines or subscription information, or email us at: info@ediblehawaiianislands.com. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2010 All Rights Reserved.

edible hawaiian islands

Photo by Steve Knox

You help preserve the Hawaiian Islands Unique food culture. Just like our advertisers, you help to support the mission of this magazine.

No matter how many we distribute, demand exceeds supply.

What’s Fresh

Fruit: Atemoya Avocado Lime Orange Mango Papaya Rambutan Starfruit Strawberry Tangerine

Vegetable: Asian Cabbage Cucumber Ginger Root Heart of Palm Mushrooms Pumpkin Sprouts Sweet Corn Sweet Potato Taro Tomato Zucchini

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

41

42

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

43

Ginger Following the

Trail

on the Big Island

By Sonia R. Martinez

F

44

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

In January the harvest begins in earnest. The rhizomes are fully matured and at full weight, with good skin and long shelf life. The mature ginger is left in the ground and harvested as needed, so usually the farmers are actually still harvesting when the new fields are being planted.

Read more about Hugh Johnson and operation at hawaiianorganicginger.com.

According to findings by the USDA, Hawai`i’s ginger root farmers harvested 1.8 million pounds during the 2007–08 season, down 36 percent from the 2006–07 season and the smallest crop since the 1979– 80 harvest.

Photo by Sonia R. Martinez

resh edible ginger (Zingiber officionale) grows on many small ginger farms located on the Big Island (Hawai`i Island), many of them in or around Puna and lower Hamakua areas.

It’s not an unusual sight at harvest time to see farm trucks loaded with plastic laundry baskets or boxes filled to overflowing with freshly harvested ginger being taken to Hilo in preparation for exporting.

Hugh Johnson farms ginger on his own land below Pahoa and on leased land north of Hilo. He first planted ginger in the Opihikao area, between Kapoho and Kalapana, in little pockets of soil in the middle of lava fields. When the ginger became infected with the bacterium Ralstonia solanacearum, he moved to the northwest corner of the island and started planting in the Hawi area, where he worked hard to fertilize and build up the soil bank depleted after many years of sugarcane growing.

Hugh moved back to the Hilo and Puna areas and started farming organically with a partner. Since then, all of his ginger is classified organic by the Hawai`i Organic Farmers Association (HOFA). An organic ginger farmer can expect to harvest half the yield per acre of a conventional ginger farmer.

Ginger has a nine-month growing cycle, beginning in March, but it keeps him busy all year. Since ginger can’t be planted in the same fields every year, Hugh starts preparing the soil for the next crop at least five months in advance in new locations between harvesting one crop and planting the next. He also plants turmeric in between some of his ginger rows.

Harvest begins in November for the semi-mature ginger, the tender pink-skinned ginger called “green ginger” by the trade, which is a favorite for pickling. By December they are shipping a couple hundred 30-pound boxes of the green ginger. This provides some holiday spending money and it gives them a handle on how the yields might be.

of both.

GINGER TRIVIA (Sources: Here and there!)

•

Ginger root is the common name for the knobby rhizomes of the Alpinia galanga plant, a true member of the Zingiberaceae ginger family. This is the most widely used ginger.

•

1 tablespoon fresh ginger = ¼ teaspoon ground

•

¼ cup sliced = 1 ounce

•

Ground ginger is not a good substitute for fresh, but dried whole ginger will work in a pinch, as well as the minced or puréed ginger sold in jars.

•

Chinese ginger is the common name for the Kaempferia galanga, or finger root. This type is more popular in Thailand and resembles fingers jutting out from a hand.

•

Pickled sushi ginger, the ginger used to garnish sushi plates, is harvested no older than three months after planting; normally ginger would be harvested at nine months and later. The skin is pink and almost translucent when it is young.

•

Green ginger or baby ginger is just the pink-tipped, shiny pieces of very young ginger. It is very mild and usually doesn’t need to be peeled. Green ginger is easy to find in Asian markets and in most Hawai`i farmers’ markets during its season.

•

When preparing a Thai dish, if the recipe calls for galanga, you can substitute common ginger.

•

Turmeric or Indian ginger has a very pungent flavor, but it’s more widely known for its brilliant yellow color. You can find the fresh roots in Asian or Indian markets and many farmers’ markets in Hawai`i, but dried turmeric is far more commonly used. It can stain your hands and clothing, so use carefully!

•

1 inch piece fresh turmeric = 1 teaspoon powdered

HINTS FOR STORING GINGER There are several ways to store ginger when you have an overabundance. These are my favorites: • If I have a lot of ginger on hand and don’t plan to use all of it soon, I like to slice it into several large pieces and store in a jar filled with dry sherry—the wine, not the so-called “cooking sherry.” It can last a long time in the refrigerator this way. This will prevent the ginger from spoiling quickly and the sherry will absorb the ginger taste and can be used to flavor stir-fry vegetables and other dishes.

•

Since so many recipes call for equal portions of minced ginger and garlic, I also like to mince and/or grate larger quantities than needed for a recipe, mix the two and store in a tightly sealed glass jar in the refrigerator and just use as needed. This saves a lot of time when you are preparing a recipe that calls for just a little bit

Interesting side note: In Hawai`i the turmeric plant is called `Olena.

The plants bloom around April. Some varieties have white, icy pink, yellow, several shades of lavender or icy blue blooms. The bloom spike comes up before the foliage. www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

45

farmers’ markets Kaua’i

Hawai`i Island

O`ahu

MONDAY West Kaua`i Agricultural Association

SATURDAY Keauhou Farmers’ Market

MONDAYS Manoa Valley District Park (People’s Open

Poipu Road and Cane Haul Road, Poipu 8 a.m.

Keauhou Shopping Center, Keauhou 8 – 12 noon.

Market) 2721 Kaaipu Avenue, Honolulu 6:45 – 7:45 a.m.

Kino`ole Farmers’ Market Koloa Ball Park (Knudsen) (Sunshine Markets) Maluhia Road, Koloa Noon

Kino`ole Shopping Plaza 1990 Kino`ole St., Hilo 7 a.m. – noon

Kukui Grove Shopping Center

Space Farmers’ Market

Lihue 3 p.m.

Space Performing Arts Center, 12-247 West Pohakupele Loop, Pahoa, HI 96778, Sat. 8 – 11:30 a.m.

Makiki District Park (People’s Open Market) 1527 Keeaumoku St., Honolulu 8:30 – 9:30 a.m.

Mother Waldron Park (People’s Open Market) 525 Coral Street, Honolulu 10:15 – 11 a.m.

TUESDAY Kalaheo Neighborhood Center

Waikoloa Village Farmers’ Market

(Sunshine Markets) Papalina Road off Kaumualii, Kalaheo 3:30 p.m.

Waikoloa Community Church across from Waikoloa Elementary School 7:30 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Wailua Homesteads Park (Sunshine Markets) Malu Road, Wailua 3 p.m.

North Kohala Across from Hawi Post Office, under banyan tree 7 a.m. – noon

Hawai`i Kai Towne Center

Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei

Waimea Town Market

Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Waipa, Hanalei 2 p.m.

At Parker School 65-1224 Lindsey Road Waimea/Kamuela HI 96743 Sat. 8 a.m. – 1p.m.

WEDNESDAY Kapa`a New Town Park (Sunshine Markets) Kahau Road, Kapa`a 3 p.m.

THURSDAY Hanapepe Park (Sunshine Markets) Old Hanapepe Town 3 p.m.

City Hall Parking Lot Deck (People’s Open Market) Alapai & Beretania Street, Honolulu 11:45 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.

TUESDAYS Waiau District Park (People’s Open Market) 98-

Waimea Hawaiian Homestead Farmers’ Market Mamalahoa Hwy., 2 miles east of Waimea

1650 Kaahumanu St., Pearl City 6:30 – 7:30 a.m.

town 7:30 a.m.

Waipahu District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-230 Paiwa St., Waipahu 8:15 – 9:15 a.m.

Honokaa Farmers’ Market Honokaa town near Honokaa Trading Co. Hilo Farmers’ Market

Wahiawa District Park (People’s Open Market)

TUESDAYS AND FRIDAYS Kekela Farms Organic Farmers Mkt

Mililani District Park (People’s Open Market)

N. Cane & California Avenue, Wahiawa 10 – 11 a.m.

Kilauea Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Keneke off Lighthouse Road, Kilauea 4:30 p.m.

FRIDAY Vidinha Stadium (Sunshine Markets) Hoolako Road, Lihue 3 p.m.

SATURDAY Kapa`a Coconut Marketplace

64-604 Mana Road, Waimea, HI 808-887-0023 100% organic Tues. & Fri. 2 – 5 p.m.

WEDNESDAYS AND SATURDAYS

Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (in front of Macy’s) 8 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Corner of Mamo and Kamehameha Ave., downtown Hilo Saturdays, 8 a.m. – noon

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7 – 11 a.m.

(inner courtyard) 12 noon

WEDNESDAYS Naalehu Farmers’ Market

Kekaha Neighborhood Center (Sunshine

Ace Hardware lawn 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Markets) Elepaio Road, Kekaha 9 a.m.

SUNDAY Pahoa Farmers’ Market Luquin’s/Akebono The-

Kilauea

94-1150 Lanikuhana Avenue, Mililani 11:45 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.

Keneke St. Behind the post office 11:30 am.

ater parking lot 8 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Hanalei Saturday Market

Makuu Farmers’ Market Keaau-Pahoa bypass

Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot 7 a.m. – 1 p.m.

WEDNESDAYS Palolo Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2007 Palolo Ave., Honolulu 6:30 – 7:30 a.m. .

Old Stadium Park (People’s Open Market) 2237 S. King St., Honolulu 8:15–9:15 a.m.

Hanalei 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m.

road 8 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Lana`i

Volcano Farmers’ Market Cooper Center, Wright Rd., Volcano 6:30 – 9 a.m.

Queen Kapiolani Park (People’s Open Market)

SATURDAY Lana`i Market Place Lana`i, Dole Park

South Kona Green Market

Hawai`i Kai Towne Center

At the Amy Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden Captain Cook 9 a.m. – I pm

Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m. – 3 p.m.

8 a.m. – 1p.m.

46

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

Monsarrat and Paki Street, Honolulu 10 – 11 a.m.

8 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Honolulu Farmers’ Market

Hawai`i Kai Towne Center

at Neal Blaisdell Center Local Bounty 808-848-2074 4 – 7 p.m.

Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m. – 3 p.m.

THURSDAYS Waimanalo Beach Park (People’s Open Market

Waianae Farmers’ Market

41-741 Kalanianaole Highway, Waimanalo 7:15 – 8:15 a.m.

Kailua District Park (People’s Open Market) 21

Makaha Resort 84-626 Makaha Valley Road Waianae, 808-848-2074 1st and 3rd Sat of the month 7:30 a.m. – 11 a.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7 a.m. –11 a.m.

Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m. – 4 p.m.

The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage

S. Kainalu Dr., Kailua 9 – 10 a.m.

SUNDAYS Hale`iwa Farmers’ Market

area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Kaneohe District Park (People’s Open Market) 45-660 Keaahala Rd., Kaneohe 10:45 – 11:45 a.m.

The Heart of Hale`iwa Traffic Signal @ Kamehameha Hwy. & Cane Haul Rd. Next to the North Shore Marketplace (free parking) 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

THURSDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7 – 11 a.m.

Kapolei Community Park (People’s Open

Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.

The Kailua Thursday Night Farmers’ Market Kailua town 5 – 7:30 p.m. behind Longs on

Market) 91-1049 Kamaaha Loop, Kapolei 7 – 8:30 a.m.

FRIDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei

Royal Kunia Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) Kupuna Lp/Kupohi St., Waipahu 9:30 – 11 a.m.

Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.

FRIDAYS Halawa District Park (People’s Open Market)

Waikele Community Park (People’s Open

99-795 Iwaiwa Street 7 – 8 a.m.

Market) Waipahu 11:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m.

The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage

Ewa Beach Community Park (People’s Open

The Mililani Sunday Farmers’ Market at

Market) 91-955 North Road, Ewa Beach 9 – 10 a.m.

Mililani High School 95-1200 Meheula Parkway, Mililani High School Parking Lot 8 a.m. – noon

Kailua Road

area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Pokai Bay Beach Park (People’s Open Market) 85-037 Pokai Bay Road, Waianae 11 – 11:45 a.m.

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7 – 11 a.m.

Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (In front of

Country Market & Craft Fair

Macy’s) 8 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Waimanalo Homestead Community Center 1330 Kalanianaole Hwy. 9 a.m. – 4p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7 a.m. – 11 a.m.

Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair

Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot 7 a.m. – 1 p.m.

SATURDAYS Banyan Court Mall (People’s Open Market) 800 N. King St. Honolulu 6:15 – 7:30 a.m.

Kaumualii Street (People’s Open Market) at Kalihi St., Honolulu 8:15 – 9:30 a.m.

Kalihi Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 1911 Kam IV Rd., Honolulu 10 – 10:45 a.m.

Salt Lake Municipal Lot (People’s Open Market) 5337 Likini St., Honolulu 11:15 a.m. – noon

Hawai`i Kai Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) 300 Keahole Street, Honolulu 1 – 2 p.m.

North Shore Country Market at Sunset Sunset Beach Elementary School, Haleiwa 8 a.m. –2 p.m.

The Saturday Farmers’ Market at Kapiolani Community College Campus 4303 Diamond Head Road, Honolulu 7:30 – 11 a.m.

Waialua Farmers’ Market Waialua Sugar Mill 8:30 a.m. – noon

Maui MONDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7 – 11 a.m.

TUESDAY The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage

Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m. – 4 p.m.

SATURDAY Maui Swap Meet MCC 7 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Makawao Eddie Tam Center Upcountry 6a.m.-1p.m.

Hana Fresh, Hana Medical Center Mon. 3 – 6 p.m.; Thu. 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.; Sat. 7:30 a.m.

– 1:30 p.m.

Ono Organic Across from Hasagawa General Store, Hana M. 10:30a.m. – 6

Moloka`i SATURDAY Ala Malama Street Kaunakakai 7 a.m. – 1 p.m.

area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Pepito Valdez 298-4289

Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Cynda Hearn 871-1307

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.

WEDNESDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

47

ADVERTISERS DIRECTORY KAUA`I

Koa Properties 808-651-1777 • www.koakauai.com

Aunty Lilikoi Passion Fruit Products Award Winning flavor!

9875 Waimea Rd. Waimea, HI 96796 866-545-4564 • www.auntylilikoi.com Bar Acuda Restaurant Bar @ 5 p.m. • Dinner @ 6 p.m.

Reservations: 808-826-7081 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kaua’i Closed Mondays www.restaurantbaracuda.com The Eastside Pacific Rim Cuisine Music Tues. Sat. 5:30-9:00pm 1380 Kuhio Hwy. Kapaa Town www.theeastsidekauai.com 808-823-9500 Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant, Fish Market & Sushi Lounge 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy. Hanalei, Kaua’i 808-826-6113 Healthy Hut Natural Food Grocery On the way to Kilauea Lighthouse 808-828-6626 Kilauea Fish Market 4270 Kilauea Rd. Kilauea, Kaua’i 808-828-6244 Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

Kilauea Town Market 2474 Keneke St. Kilauea, Kaua’i 808-828-1512 Daily 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m.

KKCR Kaua`i Community Radio 808-826-7774 PO Box 825 Hanalei, Kaua’i 96714 Listener Supported www.kkcr.org Kauai Granola Sugar Cane Snax, Homemade Cookies, tropical Granolas, Chocolate dipped Macaroons In Historic Waimea 808-338-0121 www.kauaigranola.com

48

winter 2010

Mermaids Café In Old Kapa’a Town Lunch-Dinner-Catering Homemade wraps, Sauces, salads, vegan & vegetarian always available.

1384 Kuhio Hwy • Open 11-9 everyday 808-821-2026 Moloa`a Camp Coffee Award Winning Natural Coffee Available online and at select Kaua`I Farmers Markets 866-722-2659 www.moloaabaycoffee.com Moloa`a Sunrise Fruit Stand Corner of Kuhio Hwy and Koolau Road Farm Fresh Local Grown Produce, Smoothies, juices, salads & Sandwiches Open Mon thru Sat 7:30am–5pm Phone orders welcome 808-822-1441 Papaya’s Natural Food & Café Organic Produce • Vegetarian Café Kaua`i Village 4-831 Kuhio Hwy. Kapa’a, Kaua’i 808-823-0190 Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-8 p.m. www.papayasnaturalfoods.com

The Wine Garden 4495 Puhi Road Lihu’e, Kaua’i Fine Wine, Vintage Port, Hand-Rolled Kaua’i Cigars • Open everyday 10am-6:30pm 808-245-5766 www.kauaiwinegarden.com O`AHU Aloha Air Cargo Shipping fruits and vegetables fresher. www.alohaaircargo.com Arturo’s Hot Flavors of Hawai`i Hawaiian Salsas & Sauces Candies, Cookies, Coffees & More All Kine Gifts – All Hawai`i Made 808-751-1811 www.hotsaucehawaii.com Hagadone Printing Co. World Class Printing Without Harming The World 274 Puuhale Road, Honolulu, HI 96819 808-847-5310 www.hagadonprinting.com Hokulani Bake Shop Restaurant Row • Pioneer Plaza 15 flavors of Cupcakes 808-536-CAKE www.hokulanibakechop.com twitter.com/HokulaniBakery

Papaya’s Hanalei Natural Food & Café Organic Produce • Vegetarian Café 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy. Hanalei, Kaua’i 808-826-0089 7 days 9 a.m.–8 p.m.

Honu Group Inc. 1001 Bishop Street, ASB Tower, Suite 2800 Honolulu, Hawai`i 96722 808-550-4449 tabenoja@honugroup.com www.honugroup.com

Post Cards Café Organic cuisine in Vintage cottage in Hanalei Nightly from 6:00 826-1101

Sweet Paradise Chocolatier The Art of Chocolate Hawaiian Style 20-A Kainehe Street, Kailua 808-230-8228 www.sweetparadisechocolate.com

Princeville Center 5-4280 Kuhio Highway Princeville, HI 96722 808-826-9497 T. 808-826-9850 F. www.princevillecenter.com

Whole Foods Market Supporting the local farmers And growers here on the Islands Kahala Mall in Honolulu 4211 Wai`alae Ave 808-738-0820 – 7am-10pm www.wholefoodsmarket.com

edible hawaiian islands

MAUI AKL Visit for a Day of Lavender 1100 Waipoli Rd, Kula 808-878-3004 www.aklmaui.com Alive & Well Natural Health Foods 340 Hana Highway, Kahului 808-877-4950 www.aliveandwellinmaui.com Flatbread Voted Best Family Restaurant 89 Hana Hwy, Paia 808-579-8989 www.flatbreadcompany.com Hana Fresh A True Hawaiian Harvest Daily Market in front of Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy 808-248-7515 www.hanafresh.org Maui Ag Fest Sat. April 3, 2010, Waikapu www.mauicountyfarmbureau.org Maui Cattle Company Island Grazed & All Natural 808-877-0044 www.mauicattlecompany.com Maui County Farm Bureau Local Matters Look for Grown on Maui www.mauicountyfarmbureau.com Ono Gelato Company Made fresh using local organic fruit.

115D Highway-Paia • 808-579-9201 815 Front Street – Lahaina 808-495-0203 Open 7 days a week 11 am-10pm www.onogelatocompany.com

Wild Lily Chef Jana McMahon Private Chef 808-281-8393 www.wildlily@hawaiiantel.net HAWAI`I ISLAND Island Naturals Award Winning Market & Deli At Hilo Shopping Ctr, Downtown Kona, Old Industrial, Kaiwi St. Kainaliu, Mango Court & Pahoa Village www.islandnaturals.com Kona Coffee and Tea Home of 100% organic World Wide Shipping Toll Free 888-873-2035 In Kona 329-6577 www.konacoffeeandtea.com Original Hawaiian Chocolate Made & Grown on the Island Of Hawai`i, Featured at Whole Foods Kahala/O`ahu 808-322-2626 Kona Coffee 808-329-6577 www.konacoffeeandtea.com NATIONAL Slow Food Hawai’i Island Shelby Floyd • sfloyd@ahfi.com Slow Food Kaua’i Patrick Quinn • Icingonthecake.Kauai@gmail.com

Slow Food O’ahu Laurie Carleson • laurie@honoluluweekly.com

Slow Food Nation www.slowfoodnation.org

Ono Organic Farm Exotic Organic Tropical Fruit Tasting Tours Mon-Fri 808-248-7779 • www.onofarms.com

www.ediblealoha.com

winter 2010

49

Banana Blossom what is it & how do you eat it?

Banana Blossom: (Musa spp.) The deep purplish-crimson colored banana flower is used as a vegetable from Sri Lanka to Laos. The flower is borne at the end of the stem. Long, slender, sterile male flowers with a sweet fragrance are lined up in tidy rows and protected by large reddish bracts. Higher up the stem are groups of female flowers, which develop into fruit without fertilization.

In the Philippines, banana blossom is added to the famous kari-kari, a rich beef stew. ‘Banana blossom’ or ‘banana heart’ is the favored name.

We have included recipes on our website for the adventurous chef in you. Or if you have a great recipe for Banana Blossoms, send them to info@ediblehawaiianislands.com.

50

winter 2010

edible hawaiian islands

Photo by G. Natale

In Thailand, slices of tender banana flower are eaten raw with the pungent dip known as nam prik, or with fried noodles, or simmered in a hot sour soup with chicken, galangal and coconut milk.