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Celebrating the Harvest of the Aloha State, Season by Season No. 12 Spring 2010
Inside Honolulu Fish Market Edible Seaweed • Limu Kohu Poke Furlough Friday OPAKAPAKA WITH PASSION FRUIT SALSA Member of Edible Communities
LETTER of
Aloha
Aloha. In this issue, we’ll learn about the importance of sustainable fishing practices as well as how important it is to know where our fish comes from. When choosing from the local fish monger or the waiter in a restaurant, it’s important to ask if it’s local. On another note, we all know about New Year’s resolutions and how they come and go. My feeling is that no one really makes an effort—it’s just something one thinks about out of tradition. I have to say, however, that I was recently inspired by Chef Jamie Oliver, who this year won the TED Award. You can listen to his inspiring speech at www.ted.com/talks/jamie_oliver.html; it is well worth the watch. What is so inspiring? He is looking for a revolution that will transform the way we feed ourselves, and our children. This is close to my heart and the hearts of all Edible Communities publishers. He suggests that when every child leaves school, he or she should know 10 recipes that will save their lives. He calls it life skills. They can be students or young parents and be able to “duck and dive” around the basics of fresh cooking as well as be able to survive what a recession may bring. My resolution, although it is in April, is to help get signatures from Hawai`i on Jamie’s petition. Let’s show the world that Hawai`i cares and is also a part of this revolution. A link to the petition is on the first page of our website: www.ediblehawaiiansialnds.com Your part: Teach the kids to help with meals, let them identify the fruits and vegetables in the kitchen, make it a fun time. Plant a little vegetable or herb garden that the kids tend, even if it’s in a planting pot. The excitement of then eating what they’ve grown will last their lifetime, and they will then pass on the importance of eating local. A hui hou,
Gloria Cohen
Cover Photo is the gyotaku art of Carrie Ann Brady. Her story can be found on pg. 27.
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spring 2010 Contents
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27
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Departments 4
Letter of Aloha
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Notable Edibles
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Cooking Fresh
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Subscribe
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What’s Fresh
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Farmers’ Markets
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Features 13 The Origin of Fish
An Inside Look at the Honolulu Fish Auction 15 Edible Seaweed – Limu
Salad from the Sea 18 Lasting Catch
Sustaining Hawai`i’s fisheries 22 RAISING FISH “LOKO” STYLE 27 Gyotaku
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Advertiser Directory
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what is it & how do you eat it?
Fish Artists Make an Impressive Impression 30 OPAH
Turning an Unusual Fish into an Unusual Dish (or Several) 33 Kaua`i Grill
Local style for the refined palate 43 Furlough Friday
What can the kids do? www.ediblealoha.com
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edible Hawaiian Islands Publisher/Editor in Chief Gloria Cohen Editor at Large Steven Cohen Distribution & Advertising FrontDesk@ediblealoha.com
Contributors Kira Cohen Melissa Petersen Tracey Ryder Carole Topalian Photography Lauren Brandt Oliver Cohen Steven Cohen John Cox G. Natale
Writers Martha Cheng John Cox Dahlia Haas Lily Katz Jon Letman G. Natale Rob Parsons Tim Ryan Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Food Research Editor John Cox Research & Events Editor Lila Martin
Artists Cindy Conklin Mary Ogle
Contact Us Edible Aloha PO Box 753, Kilauea, HI 96754 808-828-1559 FrontDesk@EdibleAloha.com www.EdibleAloha.com Subscribe * Give A Gift * Advertise Call: 808-828-1559 Or use the above email or web address Letters For the quickest response, email FrontDesk@EdibleAloha.com Edible Hawaiian Islands is published quarterly by Edible Hawaiian Islands LLC. All rights reserved. Spring * Summer * Fall * Winter Subscription is $28 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Š2010. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error has escaped our attention, please notify us and accept our sincere apologies. Mahalo! Edible Hawaiian Islands is printed in Honolulu, HI
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Notable Edibles
Hawai`i Island
Kaua`i
Following our ocean theme for this issue we had to share one secret to many great meals: Kona Sea Salt is made from the deep ocean waters off the Kona Coast and dried in the Hawaiian sunshine. Prized for its minerals and healing qualities, many Island chefs use Kona Sea Salt exclusively. Personally, I prefer their flake salt when I cook. Order online or ask for it at most specialty stores. www.konaseasalt.com
We are so thrilled about the new Living Foods Market inside Kukui`ula Village created by Chef/Owner Jim Moffat of Bar Acuda restaurant. If you could dream about it, Chef Jim has creatively placed it in his new market. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, seven days a week, plus the largest selection of organic produce on Kaua`i. This is only topped by a superb wine list (over 400 labels) with emphasis on biodynamic and organic wines. Did I mention homemade breads, pastries and pizza? They also roast their own coffee and you can dine in or take food home. While supplies last, you will even find Edible Hawaiian Islands magazine there ... we hope to find you there too. Open daily 8 a.m.–7 p.m.; 808-7422323
Moloka`i
Lana`i
every Friday: Located on Kamiloloa Beach next to Hawaii’s only barrier reef is Hotel Molokai. Inside is the oceanfront restaurant Hula Shores. Each Friday evening they hold a really special event at the restaurant bar from 4–6 p.m. All the local kupuna come and talk story and bring their musical instruments, unplugged. The menu is Molokai produce and fish, cooked all local style. You’ll feel like you’re in heaven ... but it’s Molokai. Ask for Marcy, tell her Dania from Edible sent you! 808-553-5347; www.hotelmolokai.com
Saturday, July 3: Here’s a wonderful local food festival to plan in advance... the 18th Annual Pineapple Festival at Dole Park. This festival honors the pineapple with historical and cultural celebrations. You can fly to Lanai but I suggest taking the Expeditions Ferry (www.golanai.com) from Lahaina’s harbor and staying overnight at Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay (ask for kama`aina rate). Please let them know that you heard about this event in Edible Hawaiian Islands. 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; 808-565-6043
O`ahu
Maui
Want an authentic Neapolitan-style pizza? At first the pizza at VLounge was only available after bar hours, but now it’s made nightly from 5 p.m., except Sundays. Chef Alejandro Briceno uses local products when possible. The best thing? It’s all made fresh by hand and when they run out, it’s gone! Let Edible know when you’re going ... we will meet you there! 1344 Kona St., Honolulu; 808-955-2640
Saturday, May 1: 21st Annual Maui Onion Festival at Maui’s Westside at Whalers’ Village in Ka`anapali. From the onion-eating contest to Island entertainment to top island chefs’ cooking demonstrations local residents and visitors will find something interesting to do, see and taste. Celebrate the Maui onion and all of its layers. 9 a.m.–9 p.m.; 808-661-4567; info@whalersvillage.com www.ediblealoha.com
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More Notables
We are proud to announce not only the incredible Local Hero Award Winners, but Edible Hawaiian Islands Magazine has won several other awards this year. International Platinum Award for Writing in 2009… Mahalo nui loa to the following writers, you make us shine: Teresa Abenoja – O`ahu Martha Cheng – O`ahu John Cox Devany Vickery Davidson – Hawai`i Island Dahlia Haas Sue Kiyabu – O`ahu Albert Lanier – O`ahu Jon Letman – Kaua`i Rob Parsons – Maui Tim Ryan – O`ahu International Gold Award for Design in 2009… Congratulations to Melissa Petersen Congratulations to EHI also for it’s Edible Communities Award for BEST LAST PAGE – “What Is It & How Do You Eat It?”
The 2010 James Beard Award Nominees are Announced Last but certainly not least we are very proud of the Hawaiian Chefs who are James Beard Semi-Finalists, the winners will be announced May 2nd & 3rd in New York City.
2010 Local Hero Winners
Outstanding Restaurant: Alan Wong’s Restaurant, Honolulu, HI
Farm/Farmer (Maui) Eileen & Rene Comeaux, Owner, Hana Herbs & Flowers www.hanaherbs.com
Rising Star Chef of the Year: Colin Hazama, Kauai Grill at the St. Regis Princeville, Kauai, HI
Chef/Restaurant (Hawai`i` Island) Mark Tsuchiyama, Executive Chef, Kona Village Resort www.konavillage.com
Outstanding Pastry Chef: Cherie Pascua, Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas, Honolulu, HI
Food Artisan (O`ahu) Melanie Boudar, Owner, Sweet Paradise Chocolatier www.sweetparadisechocolate.com
Best Chef: Pacific: Kevin Chong, Chef Mavro, Honolulu, HI Best Chef: Pacific: Hiroshi Fukui, Hiroshi Eurasion Tapas, Honolulu, HI Best Chef: Pacific: Bev Gannon, Joe’s, Wailea, HI
Beverage Artisan (Kaua`i) Koloa Rum Company www.koloarum.com Non Profit (Maui) Paula Ambre, Executive Director, The Maui Farm www.themauifarm.org
PHOTO CONTEST: The next photo contest is “Wedding Food, Hawaiian Style” You may submit two photos for this contest per person. They must be 8.5x11 at 300dpi. Photo must be original and high res, other wise it is disqualified, 300dpi is because it may not print as it looks on your computer unless it is high res. Submit to photo editor, Lauren@ediblehawaiianislands.com. By submitting photos you agree that they may be used in Edible Hawaiian Islands Magazine and or our website/blog. All published photos will be credited to the artist. Deadline is May 15th. 2010. You can see some of our other favorites on our website www.ediblehawaiianislands.com 10
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The Origin of Fish An Inside Look at the Honolulu Fish Auction By John Cox
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he alarm rang at 4 a.m. Only a few dump trucks and the occasional taxi disrupted the silence of downtown Waikiki. Sunrises and the peaceful tranquility of the pre-dawn hours are not familiar to those of us who work long into the night behind restaurant stoves, but I was on a mission. Today I would see the source for the hundreds of holographic boxes that had provided my restaurants with fresh fish for years. Like many chefs around the country, from New York to Los Angeles, I had depended on the Honolulu Fish Company for impeccably fresh loins of translucent ahi and snapper fillets so fresh they smelled like cucumbers. Whether the fish traveled to the Las Vegas Strip or to a coastal village in Maine, its quality seemed unchanged, as though it had miraculously appeared directly from the fisherman’s boat. The docks were dark and seemed distant from the tourist-choked streets a few miles away. A couple of fishing boats rocked gently with the swell against the wharf. A handful of ambiguous trucks and an idling forklift sat in the parking lot of an unmarked warehouse. I hesitantly peered behind a curtain of plastic sheeting and then, reassured that I was in the right place, stepped into the frigid room. The floor was a glassy expanse of wet concrete reflecting bright fluorescent ceiling lights and the rippling shadows of floor-length air curtains that partitioned the room. Hundreds of fish, partially shrouded in crushed ice, were carefully Photographer Lauren Brandt shooting in the Fish Market
arranged on rubber pallets grouped by species and size, running in three rows down the length of the room. A bank of high-powered air conditioning units blasted arctic air across the small group of buyers gathered at the far end of the warehouse. Dressed in hooded sweatshirts and worn rubber boots they shuffled down the isles, taking notes and mumbling into cell phones. At 5:30 a bell was rung to announce the start of the auction. As the men gathered around, the auctioneer began a bombardment of numbers unintelligible to all but the bidders. Starting with a high price he would quickly work his way down until a buyer was found. The most animated bidding took place around the large yellowtail tunas. Unlike the other fish, each tuna had a notch removed from its tail and a core sample prominently displayed on a strip of white parchment paper on top of the fish. These samples allow the bidder to determine the color, firmness and fattiness of each fish, attributes that will greatly impact the overall price. The most prized bluefin tuna can bring up to $500 per pound at the Tsukiji auction in Tokyo— but here yellowfin prices generally fall somewhere in the $2 to $14 per pound range. The day I was there a prized 120-pound fish fetched just over $6 per pound. Next on my itinerary was the Honolulu Fish Company—regarded by many chefs as the pinnacle of all fish purveyors. In many ways the operations at HFC are more like a hospital than a traditional fish wholesaler. On the cutting floor butchers and packers wear full-length body suits with hoods and face masks, similar to those worn by surgeons. www.ediblealoha.com
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The plant also smelled unlike any fish company I had ever visited. There was no hint of bleach or ammonia, not even a waft of decay, simply a fresh, clean aroma that permeated the building. This largely due to the company’s dedication to strict cleanliness and sanitation procedures—but also due to their use of ionized water, or ozone, as a sanitizing agent. A naturally occurring compound, ozone is a highly effective yet odorless sanitizer. Cleaned fillets of fish are laid out on medical-grade gauze before being cryogenically sealed and stacked with ice packs inside holographic boxes. Beyond their visual appeal, these striking boxes also help preserve their contents by reflecting harmful UV rays and keeping the fish inside cold. The system allegedly works so well that a box inadvertently forgotten on a runway in over-100° heat for three hours still made it to its destination with the fish fillets below 40°, 48 hours later! Unlike most traditional fish vendors, who buy fish and then sell it to customers, Honolulu Fish Company uses web-based video cameras and a barcode system to track exactly what is being purchased at auction. The call center displays live stock market–like pricing charts that show how much fish are selling for at the auction so pricing can be updated immediately based on market conditions. As soon as the buyer wins a lot at the auction, the fish can be sold by the sales team. A chef from New York City can call his sales person at 10 a.m. and they can apprise him of exactly what is available as the auction is happening. Want a Hapu`upu`u sea bass? The sales person can scan the auction using their digital cameras and let the buyer know to bid early on the fish that is being requested. The chef is able to confirm his order before the fish even gets out of the warehouse. By 9 a.m. the fish is packaged and on its way. Honolulu Fish Company is Hawaii’s largest FedEx user, with over 2,000 active accounts. Wayne Samiere was a marine biologist before he founded the company in 1995 in a family garage. His dedication to sustainable fishing is evident through his commitment to purchase only from certain boats and only accept fish that have reached reproductive maturity. He never sells net-caught fish, and does not condone the harsh environmental impacts of net fishing. Let’s just say that the fish arrives in New York and the chef rejects it. Honolulu Fish Company is able to trace the fillet they received back to the boat it was caught by and view critical temperatures throughout the process. It’s a truly amazing facility and deserves the high-profile chefs who adamantly support it. As I walk out into the industrial neighborhood that surrounds HFC I marvel at how things must have changed here. When fish was first being commercially sold in Honolulu it was considered damaged if it had been put on ice. Now, with the help of high-speed transportation and state-of-the-art packaging, we are able to access the very best Hawaiian fish, anywhere in the world. For more information on responsibly sourced local seafood visit www.hawaii-seafood.org. The Hawaii Seafood Council is a nonprofit organization dedicated to supporting a healthy and sustainable local fishing culture.” 14
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Edible Seaweed – Limu Salad from the Sea By Martha Cheng
he browns, greens and dark reds of seaweed lose out to their more colorful land counterparts. It’s easy to be enamored with the vibrant colors of tomatoes and the unique markings of heirloom beans, while leaving seaweed to wave quietly in the ocean, surfacing primarily in Japanese cooking in the dried forms of nori and kombu. But fresh limu, the Hawaiian word for seaweed, is worth seeking out for its briny crunch that adds texture and flavor to poke and salads. These days, seaweed’s health benefits garner more public attention, but the nutritional value of seaweed is something many Hawaiians have long known—the traditional Hawaiian diet was once a trifecta of limu, poi and fish. Unfortunately, due to improper harvesting practices of pulling out the entire plant, roots and all, instead of collecting just the tips, and the strangling hold of invasive species, many of Hawai`i’s native limu are becoming more rare. Mark Noguichi, line cook at Town restaurant in Kaimuki, speaks almost reverentially of some of the native limu varieties like limu `ele`ele, a dark green hair-like limu with a strong, briny taste. Often served floating in a bowl of cool water, it’s the Hawaiian counterpart to the bowl of olives of a Mediterranean spread—a piquant accompaniment to the rest of a baby lu`au or party feast. Noguichi provides two recipes utilizing limu, one traditional and one more contemporary. To prepare harvested limu for eating, he rec-
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ommends soaking it in a bucket of water, agitating the limu and then giving time for sand and debris to settle to the bottom of the bucket before lifting out the limu and repeating the process in a fresh bucket of water. After rinsing, salt the limu lightly and keep in a sealed container, or use right away in the recipes below. (Rinsing is not necessary for store-bought limu.)
LIMU KOHU POKE Only the tips of limu kohu, a soft, fuzzy seaweed, are harvested. Noguichi says, “Kohu is highly prized by native Hawaiians for its assertive flavor and excellent pairing with island fish,” which he demonstrates in the following recipe: 1 pound ahi, shibi or aku 1 to 1½ ounces limu kohu, chopped Inamona, to taste (recipe follows) Hawaiian sea salt (pa`akai), to taste Combine all ingredients to taste. Remember to practice proper limu collecting protocols! www.ediblealoha.com
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OGO TSUKUDANI Ogo, the Japanese word for seaweed, often refers to the thicker, crunchy and succulent varieties of limu and is often found in grocery stores and markets on the islands. Limu manauea is popular, though it has been over-harvested and is now protected; it is illegal to gather reproductive plants (characterized by dark bumps). The invasive “gorilla ogo” makes a good substitute. 3 cups ogo ½ cup mirin 1½ cup shoyu 1¼ cup sugar 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds 1 piece Hawaiian chili pepper, chopped Bring mirin, shoyu and sugar to a boil; add ogo. Reduce heat to bring ingredients to a simmer. Simmer until ogo is tender. Add sesame seeds and chili pepper, then remove from heat. Let cool to room temperature and serve. Susanna Ok, chef de cuisine of Downtown @ the HiSAM, Town’s sister restaurant, will serve a lomi tomato salad with limu alongside poi-battered fish, or with pa`i`ai, for a riff on the traditional fish, poi and limu combination.
LOMI TOMATO SALAD WITH LIMU 1 pound cherry tomatoes ½ teaspoon Hawaiian or alae salt 1 handful limu 1 teaspoon chili water 1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 bunch green onion, cut into 1-inch sticks 2 teaspoons fresh ginger, minced Cut cherry tomatoes in half. If limu is big or in chunks, rough chop it to break it up. Sprinkle salt and chili water over, toss and set aside while cutting other ingredients (this will allow the salt and limu to draw the juices out of the tomato). Add onion, green onion and ginger. Toss with tomatoes and add more chili water or salt to taste.
INAMONA (KUKUI NUT CONDIMENT) 1 pound kukui nuts, roasted and shelled 1 tablespoon Hawaiian sea salt (pa`akai) 1 piece Hawaiian chili pepper (an optional, contemporary addition) Combine everything well with a mortar and pestle. Should resemble coarse, crumbly pebbles.
BANANA-OGO BREAD Inspired by an invasive species exhibit, Ok came up with this recipe, which works well with the invasive gorilla ogo or other similarly thick, crunchy seaweeds. 1¼ cup sugar ¾ cup vegetable oil 2 eggs 2 cups puréed banana 2 cups finely chopped ogo 1 teaspoon lemon juice 2 cup flour ¼ teaspoon baking powder 1½ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground ginger Optional ingredients: ¼ cup chopped nuts, ¼ cup shredded coconut, ½ cup raisins Preheat oven to 350°. Mix sugar with oil. Stir in eggs until incorporated, then banana, then ogo and lemon juice. Sift all dry ingredients together. Fold in dry ingredients until just mixed and batter is free of flour clumps. Pour into a greased and floured pan, and bake for about 1 hour, or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. (Note: This recipe also works well with puréed papaya or mango in place of banana.)
Resources: Where to buy limu: An assortment of fresh limu can be found at Tamashiro Market, and both Tamura’s Fine Wine and Liquors and Fort Ruger Market stock limu for their popular poke. It’s also available at Times supermarkets on O`ahu, in the seafood department. Interested in removing invasive limu while also bringing home a handful for eating? Join Paepae o He`eia, an organization dedicated to caring for He`eia Fishpond in Kaneohe, on their invasive limu cleanup days. Upcoming dates are listed at www.paepaeoheeia.org. Resource for native edible limu: http://www.hawaii.edu/reefalgae/publications/ediblelimu/index.htm 16
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Catch Lasting
Sustaining Hawai`i’s fisheries longside poi, there is probably no food more Hawaiian than fish. Catching and eating fish has occupied a central role in Hawaiian culture since the first Polynesian voyagers arrived. Traditionally, Hawaiians successfully managed fisheries that sustained populations that rivaled modern numbers even in an age when people in Hawai`i were not importing 90 percent of their food. Hawaiians understood all resources were finite and implemented practices and customs that helped ensure healthy, sustainable fish populations for many generations. But modern technology and fishing methods have evolved to the point where entire fisheries can be easily over harvested, even in the vast Pacific. A 2006 report published in the journal Science warned of a “global collapse” of seafood stocks and commercial fishing by 2048, giving real urgency to the question of responsibly managing dozens of unique fisheries, used by traditional, professional, amateur, subsistence and commercial fisherman. In pre-contact Hawai`i, kapu or prohibition was placed on fish and other marine resources, allowing depleted species time to recover. The consumption of honu (green sea turtles), for example, was limited to the ali`i nui (high chiefs) to prevent overharvesting. The ahupua`a watershed system dictated fisherman fish only from their own area which was overseen by a konohiki (resident resource manager). The idea of taking only what one needed and not fishing out of season was paramount. Today kapu and konohiki are gone. Commercial fishermen are regulated and licensed by the state. But imported fish, powerful lobby groups and fractious debate based on historical, cultural, economic, environmental and political considerations all complicate the question of managing healthy, sustainable fisheries. Striking the right balance between the environment, the market and consumers is something everyone has a stake in, with the future health of Hawai`i’s marine environment being determined by the decisions we make today. Department of Land and Natural Resources Kaua`i district aquatic biologist Don Heacock points out the complexity of Hawai`i’s fisheries. He explains that unlike nutrient-rich waters like those off Alaska, which support only a few dozen commercial species (but in great numbers), Hawai`i’s relatively nutrient-poor coastal waters support hundreds of species of fish and thousands of species of invertebrates, but in far few numbers. Heacock cites ecologist Garret Hardin’s influential paper The Tragedy of the Commons, wherein he wrote of the situation in which an unlimited number of harvesters compete for a limited resource with the end result being irreparable damage or total collapse of a resource. “We have no limited entry program for any of Hawai`i’s state fisheries,” Heacock says. “Not for coral reef, bottom or pelagic [open sea] fisheries. If you have open access fisheries where anyone can join at any time, you will inevitably overfish the resource. That’s why Hawaiians established the equivalent of a limited entry program 550 years ago.”
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Photo by Oliver Cohen
But modern technology and fishing methods have evolved to the point where entire fisheries can be easily over harvested, even in the vast Pacific.
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In considering the complex questions of “sustainable fisheries,” a few important ideas include
Subsistence first:
Heacock believes near-shore coastal fisheries are best suited for subsistence fishing. He suggests a limited entry program for commercial fishing of pelagic fish like all ahi (tuna) species, nairagi (blue marlin), mahimahi (dolphin fish) and bottom fish like the popular snappers onaga and `ōpakapaka. When resources become scarce, he believes first priority should be given to traditional and subsistence noncommercial fishing. If resources allow, Heacock says recreational fishing, then commercial fishing should be permitted.
Fish smart:
Bob Fram, president of Garden & Valley Isle Seafood on O`ahu, says Pacific fishing is being decimated by large drift nets outside Hawaiian waters. “According to Greenpeace, there are approximately 3.5 million fishing boats worldwide. One percent [about 35,000 vessels] catch between half and two-thirds of all the world’s ocean fish. That 1 percent is classified as large-scale, industrialized vessels. The focus should be on the method of catch, not species,” Fram says. “We need to know how our fish is caught and with what kind of gear.” He calls Hawai`i’s long-line fisheries the “cleanest in the world” because of monitoring, regulation and the use of selective modified “C” hooks and “side setting” techniques that mitigate turtle and seabird interaction. Fram is helping to start a nonprofit called No Nets International to draw attention to what he sees as the biggest threat to sustainable ocean fishing. “You could pull all the net boats in the world and we’d have an explosion of species,” he says.
Eat local: While some fisherman bemoan a lack of unity amongst fellow fishers, unwanted competition from so-called “weekend warriors,” stagnant market prices and what they see as unwelcome intrusion from environmental groups and policy makers who don’t fully understand fishing, most agree the best way to support sustainable fishing is to buy locally caught fresh—not frozen or imported—fish. Don Jones operates a commercial fishing boat out of Nāwiliwili Harbor on Kaua`i. Like other fishermen, his costs have soared over the past decade, yet his earnings aren’t keeping pace. He says a fishermen’s coop could help foster cooperation and keep market prices from falling below a certain level.
Eat fresh: Frank Medeiros has fished Kaua`i’s waters for 30 years. Fishing is in his blood, but he is disheartened to see the pervasiveness of ahi treated with carbon monoxide to retain that candy red color which is perceived as a sign of freshness. The use of the gas for 20
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treating tuna has been banned in Singapore, Japan, Canada and the EU, but not the United States. “They can buy low-grade fish from the Philippines or Marshall Islands and the carbon monoxide puts a red pigmentation in the fish, making an ugly piece of fish look pretty good,” Medeiros says. “Would you rather buy two-week-old fish treated with carbon monoxide or fresh fish just off the boat? A lot of people don’t even know what they are buying.”
Eat what’s abundant:
Fredstan Kaluahine, a thirdgeneration fisherman, catches akule (big-eye scad), which he sells first locally on Kaua`i and then, when he has enough, to O`ahu and Maui. He says some fisherman catch fish even if they aren’t sure they can sell them. “They think they can handle. If we no can sell ‘em, I no take ‘em,” Kaluahine says. These days Kaluahine has to contend with problems such as increased boat traffic, but he isn’t worried about the fish. “The fish stay around, it’s all over the place. I wouldn’t worry about akule.” Don Heacock agrees that akule and `ōpelu (mackerel scad) are suitable as commercial fisheries, but says they require better management. He points out the historical significance of akule, saying they were to Hawaiians what salmon are to native Alaskans. Heacock urges people to buy locally caught fish like akule or `ōpelu from local fishermen who sell their catch themselves or locally caught pelagic species like ahi and ono, which can only be caught by fishermen with boats, leaving the near-shore subsistence fishing for people to directly feed their families. “We need to eat low on the food chain. Lots of vegetables and fruits, of course, but let’s also eat fish that are herbivores. We should also focus on `ama`ama, awa and āholehole.” Hawai`i’s fisheries can be incredibly resilient if given the chance and Hawaiian fishing can have a bright future, Heacock says, adding, “In order to look forward to sustainability, we actually need to look back and learn from the past.” The challenges of managing healthy, sustainable fisheries for our children and grandchildren are as vast and complex as the oceans themselves, but the choices we face are too important to ignore. For those of us fortunate enough to have fish caught in Hawaiian waters as part of our diet, the very least we can do is to carefully consider its source and the impact we have on the world beyond our own kitchen. Next time you buy or eat fish, ask how it reached your plate. The more you know, the better food tastes and the longer fish stocks will last.
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RAISING FISH “LOKO” STYLE By Rob Parsons
o an airline passenger peering down at Moloka`i’s south shore, the rock walls delineating a number of coastal ponds may be reminiscent of the Waikiki Natatorium, the venerable salt water swimming pool and war memorial where Olympians Duke Kahanomuku and Johnny Weissmuller once trained. However, the coastal ponds dotting the shorelines of Moloka`i and other Hawaiian islands weren’t constructed for recreation, but for raising and fattening fish to feed chiefs and commoners alike. Unique to Hawaii among all Pacific island cultures, archaeological data shows that more than 300 loko i`a (fishponds) were constructed throughout the isles, dating back many centuries. Walls stacked with basaltic boulders and coral ingeniously allowed for tidal circulation, yet withstood seasonal storms. Makaha (sluice gates) made of `ohia wood and bound with cords allowed small fish to pass through, while keeping plumper fish inside from escaping. Fishpond sites were carefully selected, situated where freshwater streams or springs met the ocean. Here is where certain limu would grow, food for the herbivorous moi (Pacific threadfin), awa (milkfish) and `ama`ama (mullet). Design of the historic coastal fishponds clearly incorporated the intricate knowledge early Hawaiians acquired through meticulous observation of natural processes. “Hawaiian agriculture and aquaculture enhanced what nature was already doing,” said cultural practitioner Michael Kumuhauoha Lee of the `Ewa Beach Limu Restoration Project. Lee’s great, great grandfather held a Bishop Estate lease dating back to the 1860s for a coastal fishpond off of Kaneohe, at He`eia. “Hawaiians increased the abundance of what is already there in nature, and did so without upsetting its balance. “Modern ocean fish farming has not integrated cultural knowledge in with their ‘science fair’ projects,” says Lee. “Hawaiians brought cleaner fish like wrasses into the loko `i`a to control parasites, and kaku [barracuda], an apex predator, to cull out weak or diseased fish.” They sometimes fed the fish with fruit gathered in the mountains that contained a moth larvae, said Lee—one of many “family secrets” he claims will “not be found in studies at UH, Bishop Museum or anywhere else.”
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Photo by Rob Parsons
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Lee’s traditional knowledge—and that passed down through chants, legends and historical documents—is helping revitalize efforts to restore fishponds across the islands. Moloka`i alone has 78 loko i`a— the majority scalloping a 20-mile stretch of its southern coastline— though many have thickets of invasive mangrove penetrating their lava rock walls. Restoration efforts are ongoing at some of the sites, under the guidance of Noelani Lee Yamashida, Walter Ritte Jr. and others. Within Kaneohe Bay on O`ahu, two restoration efforts are thriving. Waikalua Loko is situated between two streams that bring water falling in the Ko`olau mountains into the bay. The 11-acre area of the pond provides ample educational resources for both ancient and modern fishpond practices. He`eia Fishpond was one of six O`ahu fishponds reported in use back in the 1960s, though it fell into disrepair after a flood in 1965. (Taro fields, now given way to urban development, once buffered the coastal pond, as Hawaiians used stream water for food production both inland and at the seashore.) Production was restored in the 1990s, using both Hawaiian and Western aquaculture techniques to produce 70,000 pounds of moi yearly, and 1,000 pounds of a Florida variety of ogo (edible seaweed) weekly. Construction of Hawaiian fishponds was no small endeavor, though it is also said that some were built in a single night by Menehunes, the legendary mystical, diminutive race of early Hawaii. It is believed that under direction of their konohiki, or chiefs, hundreds of
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Photo by Joylynn Pama
Wayne Chun
commoners formed human chains to bring lava rock from upslope to the ocean, crafting walls as much as nine feet thick. It is believed that as many as 10,000 workers were needed to reconstruct the Ko`ie`ie fishpond on Maui several hundred years ago. The loko i`a were masterpieces of Hawaiian engineering, according to the website of the group dedicated to its revitalization along the North Kihei coastline. “They were a means of bringing the community together, and a display of remarkable leadership by the ali`i [chiefs” the group states. “In the uplands, the maka`ainana [commoners] would benefit from the pond’s bounty. Here, the loko i`a kalo [taro ponds] and loko wai [freshwater ponds], were refrigerators for fish such as `o`opu [gobies] and aholehole [big-eyed scad]. Towards the ocean, many fishponds were reserved for the ali`i. People were forbidden to retrieve fish from loko kuapa, such Ko`ie`ie. The fish were used for subsistence, ceremonial purposes, and managed carefully to ensure that the resources were not abused.” Once the ponds were completed, one or more thatched hale kia`i [guardhouses] were constructed, where a keeper watched over the ponds and prevented theft. Small fish (pua) were sometimes lured into the ponds with treats of taro, sweet potato or breadfruit. Soon they grew too large to swim back out through the makaha gate. Harvesting was done with nets, while other men splashed the water to drive fish into them. Fresh fish were sometimes wrapped in layers of limu and wet leaves, and the chief’s swiftest runner delivered the meal-to-be, still wriggling and alive. Such is among the deeds attributed to Makoa, a famous foot racer of 200 years ago, around the time of King Kamehameha. It is said the king craved fresh `ama`ama, or mullet, with his meals, to counter the bitter taste of his royal beverage, made from `awa (kava) root. Legend states that Makoa made a run from Kawaihae to the king’s fishpond at Waiakea in Hilo—a distance of 80 miles that would take an ordinary man four days—in a single day, bringing the king a live mullet. Lee believes that modern Western aquaculture systems run into difficulties by trying to maximize dollar output, and by not looking at how true natural resource systems of abundance are created. “It is the Hawaiian belief,” says Lee, “that everything is a living being. The outer fishpond rock walls are like the skin—they are porous and allow zooplankton to pass through. Plankton and algae are among the most basic life forms. “The fresh-water springs are like the circulatory system,” said Lee. “It is essential to set up a diverse biosphere, and to plant and seed the limu to attract the fish into the pond. Don’t disregard the vitality of the elemental systems, the safeguards and the knowledge that is already here.” In Hawaii’s quest to offset imports and produce more of the healthy local food it consumes, there is clearly much to be gleaned from past practices that were deeply in harmony with the land and sea. In time, it is conceivable that we may replace eating “local style,” now indicative of plate lunches and fast foods, with “loko style”—a return to values and practices that nurtured inhabitants of Hawaii since they first arrived here.
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Gyotaku
Fish Artists Make an Impressive Impression By Tim Ryan
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magine a Japanese fisherman a few centuries ago who catches the biggest fish of his life but has no way of documenting it, other than excitedly telling friends something like “It was longer than my skiff, I tell you!” He had no camera, no witnesses; nothing but his word. Eventually, Japanese fishermen learned of a method to record their landings for their size, shape, color, or rarity: gyotaku, from gyo meaning fish and taku meaning impression. In the West, the style is commonly known as fish painting, an art form practiced at skill levels ranging from rank beginners who do it for their own use to artisans who can earn thousands of dollars for a collage of fish “impressions.”
One early morning at O`ahu’s Haleiwa harbor, Aka Watanabe wanders past several fishing boats where men are unloading their day’s catch, including the muscled ulua, fluorescent-colored mahimahi, a few surgeon fish and a luminescent parrot fish with its toothy jaw and blunt nose a mixture of blue, green, yellow and red scales so bright in the afternoon sun it’s almost hard to stare at. “I’m looking for a unicorn tang [surgeon fish],” says Watanabe, who also is eyeing the parrot fish. The retired state worker is new at gyotaku but loves the “almost instant gratification” of inking one side of a fish, then carefully pressing paper or canvas over the body, then lifting it off for a near-replica image if done right. “Even mistakes—like smudges and smears—can be beautiful,” he says. “When I do it right, the fish print makes them look alive. I can imagine them swimming.” A gyotaku print is an original artwork done entirely by the artist’s hands. Even though more than one print can be pulled from the same fish, no two will be identical, says Carrie Lee Brady, one Hawaii’s most respected gyotaku artists along with masters Naoki Hayashi and Shane Hamamoto. After moving to Hawaii from California more than three decades ago, Brady worked for a company that made hand-printed swimwear. “My (former) husband was a fisherman and we started talking about applying my fabric paint to the sides of some of the fish he caught to see if we could transfer that to paper or canvas,” she said. “I got very excited right about results.”
Artist: Carrie Lee Brady One of the couple’s first subjects was a 554-pound sea bass caught off Maui’s south shore. “We were able to make a print of it then right away, then put that in a little gallery in Makawao where we sold the original for $2,000,” Brady said. “We were stunned because it made us think that we could actually do this for a living.” So Brady created Hawaiian Fish Prints (hawaiianfishprints.com) where the artist says she makes “fine art from nature.” Brady uses nontoxic water-based inks, then rice paper or canvas that’s pressed onto the painted side of the subject—be it seashells, coral, fish or casting of a turtle. Then she hand colors the lifted impression with colored pencils, the most time-consuming aspect of her artwork. In gyotaku, the fish is used as a relief-printing block, similar to a woodblock or linocut except the irregularly shaped fish requires a very flexible paper. Papers with high wet strength, medium finish and extreme flexibility are best. www.ediblealoha.com
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After painting the fish and delicately laying the paper over that side, Brady slowly presses it with both hands while wrapping it over the fish to capture all the details. Then she lifts the paper off. “I have a color palette I like to work with, so I know what works best on different colored backgrounds,” she says. “Then I start building layers of color, but if I see while I’m coloring that they’re not harmonizing, I can back colors out and just redo it.” The fish are not gutted for the painting or pressing. “A gutted fish can make things messier,” Brady says. Look closely at Brady’s prints and you may notice that the fish’s eyes have a near-human quality.
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“If you press around the eye of the fish too far it can distort the image or you make the image look like a potato or something,” she says. Brady blocks the eyes for painting after the pressing. “I have my own style for the eyes that makes them look more human-like,” she says. “The difference is the way a fish eye and a human eye reflect light.” Brady, a member of the Maui Crafts Guild, often keeps the fish frozen for future projects, returns them to the fisherman or, gulp, occasionally eats her subjects. The water-based inks are easily washed off. Like O`ahu’s Watanabe, Brady also hits the docks searching for fish, even buying them from a roadside stand. Educators also find that gyotaku is a great teaching tool. “That instant gratification aspect makes it very popular with students and the general public,” Brady says. “I tell them just practice and experiment. That’s part of the fun.” Gyotaku is done with very few materials: paper, paint or ink, and a fish. Some vendors even market rubber fish to make it easier to try. The oldest gyotaku was found in Japan, dating back to 1862. Brady has visited Maui schools to teach fish printing. “What I enjoy is seeing, no matter how the students apply the paint, there’s this instant wow factor,” she says. “It makes them feel special.” Brady’s fish prints include single or collage images of turtles, reef inhabitants like surgeons, triggers, malolo, kihikihi, kupipi, palani, corals and octopi. Her artistic license comes into play when choosing the vibrant colors for her subjects and the prints’ backgrounds.
“In the beginning my fish prints were much more traditional, done either in black and white or with very little color, everything kind of true to nature,” she explained. “That got boring.” For the last several years Brady has been working with texture and it’s changed her style dramatically. The paints are applied in a raised style and the papers she’s using are all textured organic fibers. “This is the direction I’m most excited about right now,” Brady says. It can take the artist as little as 30 minutes to make a small print of a single manini and up to 10 hours to capture her desired image for a delicate octopus. “Pulling the print is quick but deciding what to do with it afterward takes some time,” she says. “I spend a lot of time with color pencils….” Brady confesses that she “never” tosses out any print despite some mistakes. “I have mountains of rolled-up prints in my studio,” she says. “When I make a mistake I know inevitably over time I’ll figure out how to fix that mistake.” The ulua and mahimahi are Brady’s favorite subjects. “Ulua are easy to pull prints from, but I love that the guys who catch the big ulua are so proud of their big fish, which are fantastic creatures,” she says. Brady says she’s nowhere near tapping out available print subjects. “I would love to print some of those otherworldly looking deepwater fish,” Brady says. “Very exciting!” Carrie’s work in Gyotaku can be seen in many galleries across the islands. For more info visit www.hawaiianfishprints.com
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OPAH Turning an Unusual Fish into an Unusual Dish (or Several) By John Cox
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hen I received a call about a whole locally caught opah I was both intrigued and apprehensive. The cartoon-like fish, with its round flat body, silver dots and crimson fins, is not a common catch, and I had never had the opportunity to butcher a whole one. Unlike a tuna or snapper, which both have a somewhat predictable anatomy, the opah’s filets run like a jigsaw puzzle, each with a different texture and preferred cooking method. Always up for a challenge, I bought the fish and started my exploration with a sharp filet knife. Starting with the dorsal fin I traced the rib bones beneath the translucent red flesh of the top loin to the backbone. Then, carefully working my way over the backbone, I separated the fatty lower loin 30
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from the intestines. As I pulled the lower loin away I saw a very dark, almost liver-colored meat below the pectoral fin. Using the tip of my paring knife I was able to remove the pectoral muscle. This was unlike any fish I had ever seen, heavily fibered and dark purple like fresh venison. If I were to see it out of context I would have guessed it was a flank steak. At this point I had a pile of bones and skin; two top loins that looked like pale, but firm, tuna; two lower loins that resembled wellmarbled salmon; and the two odd cheek muscles. Even though I hate to waste anything, I threw away the bones and skin, worried that, like tuna bones, they would impart a bloody flavor to any sauce or stock I might try to incorporate them into.
The cheeks were a toss-up: On the one hand, I had never seen them sold through a commercial fish market. But on the other hand, they were so unique I felt I had to experiment with them. At first I shaved away a sliver of flesh and offered it to my dishwasher; surprisingly, he turned it down. Next I turned to the prep cook, then to the pantry cook and finally the grill cook, but nobody wanted to take the first bite. I timidly nibbled a corner and was pleasantly surprised by the texture but somewhat repulsed by the bloody-liver-like flavor. Just as I was ready to push the offensive pieces toward the garbage I decided to give them a second chance. I knew that cooking them would only accentuate the bloody flavor, but I thought it might benefit from being treated like a classic steak tartar. With that thought in mind I dumped in a scoop of grain mustard, lemon zest, shallots, garlic, capers, egg yolk, chives, black pepper and sea salt. Sure enough, the mix was quite palatable—but I was not yet convinced. I took three spoonfuls to the upstairs office along with my most innocent smile. “This is a new recipe I am trying. Can you tell me what you think?” The 20-year-old secretary looked dubious but tried it. Our event coordinator slurped it down without a second thought and the office manager did the same. To my surprise their responses were all supportive. Based on this series of tests I decided to put it on as a special that night. I’m happy to report that I am still employed—and that those customers who dared to order it really enjoyed the Opah Breast Tartare. The upper loin was easy and could be used in much the same way that a fresh loin of ahi would. The lower loin, with its seductive marbling and creamy orange color, begged to be used but didn’t lend itself to being eaten raw, or to a seared preparation. Noting its uncanny similarity to wild salmon bellies, I decided to cure it and then smoke it— similar to a classic smoked salmon preparation. I can say that opah “bacon” was a success. It maintained its unique fishy identity while embracing the sweet-smoky attributes of country bacon. Served on a slice of fresh focaccia bread with garlic aioli, Hamakua tomatoes and arugula, it was an unorthodox version of the classic BLT.
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Kaua`i Grill Local style for the refined palate By Jon Letman Photos by Jon Letman
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on’t let the simplistic name fool you: Kaua`i Grill is no smoky diner. In fact, it’s doubtful there is another restaurant with a better view (Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain from 8 stories up), and the sleek ambiance (warm hardwood and brown leather) and varied menu (especially seafood) are scarcely matched on Kaua`i. The recently opened Kaua`i Grill at the St. Regis Princeville Resort is the first Jean-Georges restaurant in Hawai`i or, for that matter, the West Coast region. The renowned Alsatian chef is no stranger to exotic locales—Doha, Bora Bora and the Bahamas are on his dossier— but there must have been something special for the French chef with nine high-profile restaurants in New York (including one Michelin three-star ranking) to open on Kaua`i, even during the depths of a grinding global recession. For a chef whose name is usually preceded or followed with adjectives like “extraordinary” or “celebrated,” and who has a rapidly expanding empire of signature restaurants in New York, Paris, Shanghai and a dozen other global hot spots, it says something about his belief in the Hawai`i food market that Jean-Georges Vongerichten set up shop in the Islands. Kaua`i Grill’s general manager Nicolas Lorentz, also a native of Alsace, explains how the “celebrity” chef came to Hawai`i in 2008 to experience restaurants, markets and food in the Islands.
Left to right: Seed Encrusted Moi, Fresh Hearts of Palm, Hamachi with Sugarloaf Pineapple and Meyer lemon www.ediblealoha.com
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“A year and a half ago, Jean-Georges spent time here to see what he would find and if the location would work. He tried restaurants on Kaua`i and O`ahu to research the spirit of Hawai`i, knowing you have to fit the local market,” Lorentz says. “This is a chef’s market driven menu and the first grill concept for Jean-Georges.” Kaua`i Grill is, at its essence, a restaurant that highlights the best local ingredients Hawai`i can offer. Executing this vision daily is chef de cuisine and Honolulu native Colin Hazama. Recently nominated as a 2010 James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef of the Year semifinalist, Hazama had already created a stir as executive sous chef at Rum Fire in Waikiki which honored him as best young chef. Besides experience working under Chef Alan Wong at the Kahala Mandarin, Roy’s in San Francisco and training in New York, Hazama has the benefit of being local. He was born and raised on O`ahu and has a familiarity, understanding and respect for the foods of Hawai`i. “I grew up with local fish. I used to spear fish so I know about reefs, what fish eat and the textures and flavors of our Hawaiian fish,” Hazama says. Locally caught fish and seafood play a starring role in Kaua`i Grill’s menu with fish from the Big Island, O`ahu, Maui, Kaua`i and vendors around the state supplying Kona Cold lobster, kampachi, bigeye ahi, octopus, moi (threadfin fish), `ōpakapaka and others. Hazama uses snapper and moi, which complement the full-bodied, rich sauces. Sashimi is featured prominently at Kaua`i Grill, served in ways Hazama says “explode in flavor,” like kampachi or hamachi topped with sugarloaf pineapple jam, Meyer lemon and freshly ground wasabi. A signature dish is the nut and seed¬–crusted moi. Prepared with striped bass in New York, Chef Colin chose to use moi for its delicate, sweet, flaky flesh marbled with fat and skin that crisps when grilled. The moi is brushed with cream and coated with sesame, hazel, almonds and spices then served in a sweet-sour jus boosted with a beurre noisette, a French brown butter sauce.
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“The moi sells out every night. It’s very popular because of its unique flavor and quality. In ancient times it was to be eaten by only the ali`i (royalty),” Hazama says. “It has a very special meaning in Hawai`i and its great that we have it here.” Depending on seasonal availability, roughly one-third of the produce served at Kaua`i Grill is grown on island with other produce coming from neighbor islands. Chef Colin works closely with hydroponic grower Kaua`i Fresh Farms, Kailani Farms, Kunana Farms and Cultivate, a new distribution service that helps small family farms on Kaua`i deliver fresh produce to customers. Kaua`i family farms supply avocados, ginger, beets, radishes, apple bananas, coconuts, kalamansi limes, microgreens, and a host of other local fruit and vegetables, all of which is transformed in the Kaua`i Grill kitchen. Describing Kaua`i Grill as “contemporary American cuisine prepared with local regional ingredients from Hawai`i,” Hazama says the flavor components are unique, giving recipes from the East Coast their undeniable Hawaiian flare. “We do Jean-Georges food, but in a way that can highlight local fresh product in Hawai`i – produce, fish, seafood, lots of herbs, honey. Everything is very unique to what we have in Hawai`i.” Looking out over Hanalei Bay, Hazama continues, “We have a lot of great foods to work with here. If executed perfectly, cooked very simply, but with pronounced flavors, it showcases the beauty of Hawai`i. That really makes a difference to our customers’ palate.” Must-tries: Kaua`i Grill’s tasting menu includes the rice cracker ahi, heart of palm salad, nut and seed-encrusted moi, rack of lamb and a lovely warm chocolate cake dessert. Add the hamachi with sugarloaf pineapple and Meyer lemon or the grilled black pepper octopus for a delightful introduction to Chef Colin’s cuisine.
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Cooking Fresh When Met
Ooh La La Hula La
Written by Dahlia Haas Food Styling by Dahlia Haas and Nurit Aeina
The most memorable meal I ate in 2009 was Dover sole meuniere in a well- known French brasserie in Paris. The fish arrived in a shiny copper oval sauté pan, still sizzling, lightly browned and glazed with a sauce of clarified browned butter, white wine and fresh lemon juice. Though I didn’t know it then, Julia Child had the same reaction as I did when she first tasted this dish. In her book My Life in France she writes: “Each forkful was a morsel of perfection.” Once home, I longed to reproduce this classic French dish. Although, I knew I’d never find a French Dover sole in Hawai`i, I bought fresh-caught opakapaka fillets and I found a recipe for a meuniere sauce in my trusty book The Joy of Cooking. The recipe was a cinch to prepare. Wonder of wonders, the first bite of the sautéed opakapaka in the browned butter sauce was a food flashback. I was back in Paris, at that famous brasserie, La Capoule. The aroma of the sauce, the way the fish looked once cooked, was exactly as I remember. Each and every bite was sheer heaven. I never dreamed opakapaka, prepared this way was le match to French Dover sole in texture and taste. Inspired by my recent trip to Paris, I have designed a contemporary island-style spring menu with a French twist. Think of these as master recipes, made with local tropical ingredients such as sugar-sweet mangoes, macadamia nuts, rich Kona coffee, fragrant lilikoi and bundles of herbs that grow wild in our gardens. The main event is Opakapaka Meuniere tricked out with a Passion Fruit Salsa. Crunchy potato wedges get dressed up in a parsley pesto sauce. I’ve concocted a citrusy butter lettuce and mushroom salad dotted with shelled edamame and loaded with five different herbs. The piece de resistance is the Spicy Paradise Mac Crunch Ice Cream. From the first bite to the last lick, this is island cooking at its best: easy, and elegant and tres chic…
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SPICY PARADISE MC CRUNCH ICE CREAM Everyone talks about making homemade ice cream, yet so few actually take on the task. If you own an ice cream machine, pull it out and try my recipe. It’s chock-full of candied macadamia nuts and spices. I keep the insert bowl of the ice cream machine in the freezer all year round; ice cream is the best dessert and so impressive. 6 egg yolks 1/3 cup sugar 3 cups half and half or heavy cream 1 vanilla bean, split in half 1 recipe of Macadamia Nut Candy (see recipe below)
Place 6 egg yolks with sugar in a medium bowl and whisk with an electric mixer until yolks are fluffy. Place half and half or cream and the vanilla bean in the bowl of a double boiler over simmering water. When cream is warm, whisk in the egg yolk mixture and continue to whisk until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes. Remove bowl from the double boiler, set aside to cool and discard the vanilla bean. Place mixture in a covered container in the refrigerator to chill overnight, or at least 2 hours. Place mixture in the insert bowl of the ice cream machine and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Before freezing, fold in as much of the crushed Macadamia Nut Candy as you desire and freeze in an airtight container overnight or at least 4 hours, until ice cream is firm.
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Spicy Macadamia Nut Candy
Preheat oven to 325°.
¼ cup brown sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon cayenne ¾ teaspoon salt ¾ teaspoon cinnamon 1 egg white 1 teaspoon water 1½ cup macadamia nuts, coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon ground Kona coffee
Place all the ingredients except the macadamia nuts and ground coffee in blender and pulse at medium speed to combine, about 1 minute.
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Remove the mixture to a medium bowl and fold in the chopped macadamia nuts and ground Kona coffee. Spread the mixture on a baking pan lined with parchment paper or a nonstick baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes, until brittle seems dry to the touch and browned. When done, move candy to a cooling rack to cool. Place candy in a plastic bag and crush well with a mallet. Fold crushed Macadamia Nut Candy into the ice cream, and refreeze.
edible hawaiian islands
HAWAIIAN OPAKAPAKA MEUNIERE WITH A PASSION FRUIT SALSA Makes 4 servings Passion fruit, or lilikoi, grows wild all over the Hawaiian islands. If you can, buy fresh passion fruit at your farmers’ markets and by all means use them for this salsa recipe. Cut the fruit in half and strain the pulp through a small sieve. Fresh passion fruit is much sweeter than bottled passion fruit juice so you might omit the agave or honey in this recipe. Passion Fruit Salsa
Combine all the ingredients together in a small bowl; gently toss with a spoon to combine. Can be made ahead and refrigerated till needed.
I medium mango, peeled and finely diced 2 tablespoons shallot, finely minced 1 tablespoon cilantro, finely minced 3 tablespoons agave or honey, as needed ¼ cup passion fruit pulp, juice or syrup, Aunty Lilikoi Passion Fruit Juice 4 opakapaka fillets, washed and well dried Salt and white pepper to taste Flour for dredging 6 tablespoons butter, divided 3 tablespoons macadamia nut oil or coconut oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons white wine 2 tablespoons parsley, finely minced
Preheat the oven to 200°. Place four dinner plates in the oven to warm. Lightly season the fish fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. When fish glistens (about 10 minutes) lightly dip the fish in flour to coat both sides and set aside on a plate. Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over a medium-high flame; add 3 tablespoons butter and the oil. When butter sizzles, add the fillets, cook the fish on both sides till well browned—about 10 minutes total per 1 inch thickness of fish. When fish is cooked, place one fillet on each plate in the oven. To make the sauce, melt 3 tablespoons of butter in the same pan, add the wine and lemon juice and whisk and simmer till sauce is reduced, and then add the parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the plates with the fish from the oven, pour the sauce evenly over the fish and serve with the Passion Fruit Salsa. *Aunty Lilikoi Passion Fruit Juice can be bought online at auntylilikoi.com.
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GRILLED POTATO WEDGES WITH A PARSLEY PESTO SAUCE Makes 4 servings This is a modern take on home fries and potato salad. I like to brown the potatoes on a stove-top grill pan. If you don’t own a grill pan, the potatoes can be easily grilled on a barbecue.
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, cut in 6 wedges each 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil Ground black pepper, to taste Parsley Pesto Sauce 1 large bunch fresh parsley leaves, stemmed and coarsely chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled 2/3 cup olive oil Salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste
Place potatoes in a medium pan with salted water to cover over a medium heat. Cook potatoes until slightly tender—about 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the wedges. Do not over cook or potatoes will fall apart. Drain potatoes in a colander, place potatoes in a bowl. Season potatoes with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, salt and pepper to taste and set aside to cool. Can be made a day ahead and chilled in the refrigerator. Preheat a stove-top grill on medium-high heat. Brush the grill lightly with oil, so potatoes do not stick. Arrange the potatoes on the preheated grill and sear on both sides until nicely browned. Carefully remove potatoes with tongs to a bowl and set aside to cool. Place parsley and garlic in the bowl of a food processor with a metal blade, or in a blender, and add the oil slowly till emulsified. Pulse until the mixture forms a smooth sauce. Season sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle the potatoes with just enough of the parsley pesto sauce so they are well coated and mix gently with a spoon, being careful not to crush the potatoes. Serve at room temperature or warmed.
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CITRUSY BUTTER LETTUCE AND EDAMAME SALAD WITH FRESH HERB VINAIGRETTE Makes 4 servings This simple salad is lovely, especially in the spring when fresh herbs are at their best. Fresh tarragon has the strongest flavor and mint adds sweetness. Any type of basil works beautifully as well; Thai and purple are just a few of them. What I like most is how regal this salad looks, once stacked with the edamame and sliced mushrooms. 2 heads butter lettuce, washed and well dried 2 cups button mushrooms, thinly sliced
Fresh Herb Vinaigrette: 1 large shallot, minced 2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar 2 tablespoons lemon juice Salt and pepper to taste Âź cup olive oil 1 tablespoon honey 1 cup edamame, shelled 2 cups mixed herbs, parsley, basil, mint, tarragon and chives, stemmed and finely minced
Carefully cut out the core from each head of lettuce and separate the leaves; discard any tough outer leaves. Place the leaves in a bowl of cold water to refresh them and remove any dirt, then lift out and spin-dry in a salad spinner. Place in a large bowl with the sliced mushrooms.
In a large salad bowl, place the shallot, vinegar, lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Let stand for 10 minutes. Then whisk in the olive oil, drop by drop, and add honey. Add the edamame and all the minced herbs. Toss the butter lettuce leaves and the sliced mushrooms together with some of the vinaigrette. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Divide the butter lettuce leaves equally among the plates and build each using the largest leaves of the lettuce, ending with the smallest, most tender leaves and top with marinated edamame and herbs.
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Furlough Friday What can the kids do? By Lily Katz & CC
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live in Maui, Hawaii. Last year our state government started losing money so they decided to keep kids who went to public school home on Fridays to save money. They call it Furlough Fridays. Lots of parents are upset about it because they need to work and there is nowhere for their children to go. I’m lucky because my parents are smart and plan things before. Instead of watching TV or playing video games my family decided to plant a garden. I live across the street from the beach and it gets pretty windy. So we decided all together to plant the garden on the south side of the house. The land had a big hill and we didn’t use it much, so this area was a good place. First we dug up the grass and weeds. Then we built redwood planter boxes called raised beds. We used stainless steel so it wouldn’t rust. Then we sunk them into the ground so they were all level. We planted tomatoes, beets, herbs and carrots in two colors, orange and red. Have you ever seen a red carrot? We also planted sunflowers, lettuce, beans, cucumbers and radishes. Every Furlough Friday there is so much to do. It’s hard to grow vegetables. Our tomato plant kept falling down and we had to figure out a way to keep it propped up. Some of our vegetables didn’t grow. We are still trying to figure out why. But a lot of the vegetables are doing well and I can’t wait to pick all the vegetables and eat them. I have a smaller garden where I am just growing carrots and watermelon. I plan to sell the carrots and watermelon so I can get money to make my garden even larger. I will keep doing this until my garden is as large as it can get. Then I will sell one last batch of fruits and vegetables then give the rest of the money to our family garden. So next time something happens in your life that is not positive, turn the situation around and make it work out.
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email (optional): For more information or to submit story ideas, call or email us at: 808-828-1559, or info@ediblehawaiianislands.com. Edible Hawaiian Islands is published quarterly by Edible Hawaiian Islands LLC. Telephone: 808-828-1559. Distribution is throughout the state of Hawai`i and nationally by subscription. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $28 annually. Published in April, July, October and December. Call the number above to inquire about advertising rates, deadlines or subscription information, or email us at: info@ediblehawaiianislands.com. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2010 All Rights Reserved.
edible hawaiian islands
Photo by Steve Knox
You help preserve the Hawaiian Islands Unique food culture. Just like our advertisers, you help to support the mission of this magazine. No matter how many we distribute, demand exceeds supply.
What’s Fresh
Photo by G. Natale
Fruit: Banana • Lime • Lychee • Liliko`i • Mango • Orange • Papaya • Pineapple Vegetable: Bitter Melon • Beans • Chinese Cabbage • Celery • Cucumber • Daikon Eggplant • Ginger Root • Hearts of Palm Mushrooms • Taro
www.ediblealoha.com
Spring 2010
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farmers’ markets Kaua’i Farmers’ Markets MONDAY West Kaua`i Agricultural Association Poipu Road and Cane Haul Road, Poipu • 8 a.m.
Koloa Ball Park (Knudsen) (Sunshine Markets) Maluhia Road, Koloa • Noon Kukui Grove Shopping Center
Waikoloa Village Farmers’ Market
Hawai`i Kai Towne Center
Waikoloa Community Church across from Waikoloa Elementary School • 7:30 a.m.–1 p.m.
Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m.
North Kohala Across from Hawi Post Office, under banyan tree • 7 a.m.–noon
TUESDAYS Waiau District Park (People’s Open Market)
Waimea Town Market At Parker School, 65-
98-1650 Kaahumanu Street, Pearl City 6:30–7:30 a.m.
1224 Lindsey Road, Waimea/Kamuela HI 96743 Sat. 8:00 am.- 1:00pm.
Lihue • 3 p.m.
TUESDAY Kalaheo Neighborhood Center
Waimea Hawaiian Homestead Farmers’ Market Mamalahoa Hwy., 2 miles east of
Waipahu District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-230 Paiwa Street, Waipahu • 8:15–9:15 a.m. Wahiawa District Park (People’s Open Market)
Waimea town • 7:00 a.m. – 12:00 noon
N. Cane & California Avenue, Wahiawa • 10–11 a.m.
(Sunshine Markets), Papalina Road off Kaumualii, Kalaheo • 3:30 p.m.
Honokaa Farmers’ Market
Mililani District Park (People’s Open Market)
Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei
Honokaa town near Honokaa Trading Co. Hilo Farmers’ Market
94-1150 Lanikuhana Avenue, Mililani 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m.
TUESDAYS AND FRIDAYS Kekela Farms Organic Farmers Mkt
Fort Street near Wilcox Park
Waipa, Hanalei • 2 p.m.
Kahau Road, Kapa`a • 3 p.m.
THURSDAY Hanapepe Park (Sunshine Markets) Old Hanapepe Town • 3 p.m.
Kilauea Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets), Keneke off Lighthouse Rd, Kilauea • 4:30 p.m.
Manoa Marketplace Honolulu • 7–11 a.m.
WEDNESDAYS AND SATURDAYS
Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community
Corner of Mamo and Kamehameha Ave., downtown Hilo • Saturdays, 8 a.m.–noon
Center Parking Lot • 7 a.m.–1 p.m.
WEDNESDAYS Naalehu Farmers’ Market Ace Hardware lawn • 10 a.m.–2 p.m.
FRIDAY Vidinha Stadium (Sunshine Markets) Hoolako Road, Lihue • 3 p.m.
SUNDAY Pahoa Farmers’ Market Luquin’s/Akebono Theater parking lot • 8 a.m.–3 p.m.
SATURDAY Kaua`i Community Market
Makuu Farmers’ Market
At Kaua`i Community College, Front Parking Lot (across from Grove Farm) • 10:00 am – 1:pm
Keaau-Pahoa bypass road • 8 a.m.–2 p.m.
Kekaha Neighborhood Center
Cooper Center, Wright Rd., Volcano • 6:30–9 a.m.
(Sunshine Markets), Elepaio Road, Kekaha • 9 a.m.
Kilauea Keneke St. Behind post office • 11:30 am.
Volcano Farmers’ Market South Kona Green Market At the Amy Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden Captain Cook • 9 a.m. – I pm
Hanalei Saturday Market Hanalei • 10 a.m.–1:30 p.m.
O`ahu Farmers’ Markets
Hawai`i Island Farmers’ Markets
MONDAYS Manoa Valley District Park (People’s Open Market), 2721 Kaaipu Avenue, Honolulu • 6:45–7:45 a.m.
SATURDAY Keauhou Farmers’ Market Keauhou Shopping Center, Keauhou • 8a.m. – noon
Makiki District Park (People’s Open Market) 1527 Keeaumoku Street, Honolulu • 8:30–9:30 a.m.
Kino`ole Farmers’ Market Kino`ole Shopping Plaza, 1990 Kino`ole St., Hilo • 7 a.m.-noon
Mother Waldron Park (People’s Open Market) 525 Coral Street, Honolulu • 10:15–11 a.m.
Space Farmers’ Market Space Performing Arts Center, 12-247 West Pohakupele Loop, Pahoa, HI 96778 • Sat. 8:00a.m. – 11:30 a.m.
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Honolulu (in front of Macy’s) • 8 a.m.–2 p.m.
64-604 Mana Road, Waimea, HI, 808-887-0023 Tues. & Fri. 2:00-5:00pm • 100% organic
City Hall Parking Lot Deck (People’s Open Market), Alapai & Beretania Street, Honolulu • 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m.
edible hawaiian islands
WEDNESDAYS Palolo Valley District Park (People’s Open Market), 2007 Palolo Avenue, Honolulu • 6:30–7:30 a.m. . Old Stadium Park (People’s Open Market) 2237 South King Street, Honolulu • 8:15–9:15 a.m.
Queen Kapiolani Park (People’s Open Market) Monsarrat and Paki Street, Honolulu • 10–11 a.m.
Hawai`i Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu • 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m.
Honolulu Farmers’ Market at Neal Blaisdell Center, Local Bounty 808-848-2074 • 4:00-7:00 pm
THURSDAYS Waimanalo Beach Park (People’s Open Market 41-741 Kalanianaole Highway, Waimanalo 7:15–8:15 a.m.
Kailua District Park (People’s Open Market) 21 South Kainalu Drive, Kailua • 9–10 a.m.
Kaneohe District Park (People’s Open Market) 45-660 Keaahala Road, Kaneohe • 10:45–11:45 a.m. Manoa Marketplace • Honolulu • 7–11 a.m. The Kailua Thursday Night Farmers’ Market Kailua town • 5–7:30 p.m. behind Longs on Kailua Rd.
Photo by Oliver Cohen
WEDNESDAY Kapa`a New Town Park (Sunshine Markets)
FRIDAYS Halawa District Park (People’s Open Market) 99-795 Iwaiwa Street • 7–8 a.m.
Ewa Beach Community Park (People’s Open Market), 91-955 North Road, Ewa Beach • 9–10 a.m.
Pokai Bay Beach Park (People’s Open Market)
Waikele Community Park (People’s Open Market), Waipahu • 11:30 a.m. –12:30 p.m.
The Mililani Sunday Farmers’ Market at Mililani High School, 95-1200 Meheula Parkway, Mililani High School Parking Lot • 8 a.m. –Noon
Manoa Marketplace Honolulu • 7–11 a.m.
85-037 Pokai Bay Road, Waianae • 11–11:45 a.m.
Country Market & Craft Fair
Fort Street near Wilcox Park
Waimanalo Homestead Community Center 1330 Kalanianaole Hwy. • 9 a.m.–4p.m.
Honolulu (In front of Macy’s) • 8 a.m. –2 p.m.
Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot • 7 a.m. –1 p.m.
Maui Farmers’ Markets MONDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei
Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana • 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. THURSDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–4 p.m.
Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana • 9a.m. - 5p.m.
Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana • 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. FRIDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–5 p.m.
SATURDAYS Banyan Court Mall (People’s Open Market)
61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–4 p.m.
800 North King Street, Honolulu • 6:15–7:30 a.m.
Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai
Kaumualii Street (People’s Open Market)
3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) 7a.m.–11 a.m.
Avenue, Kahului • 7 a.m. –4 p.m.
Hana Health
Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai
at Kalihi Street, Honolulu • 8:15–9:30 a.m.
Kalihi Valley District Park (People’s Open Market), 1911 Kam IV Rd., Honolulu • 10–10:45 a.m.
Salt Lake Municipal Lot (People’s Open Market), 5337 Likini Street, Honolulu • 11:15a.m. –Noon
4590 Hana Hwy, Hana • 9a.m. - 5p.m.
3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) 7–11 a.m.
Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana • 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Kahului Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair
Hawai`i Kai Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market), 300 Keahole Street, Honolulu • 1–2 p.m.
TUESDAY The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Mall, 275
North Shore Country Market at Sunset
Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului • 7 a.m. –4 p.m.
Sunset Beach Elementary School, Haleiwa 8 a.m. –2 p.m.
Kahului Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair
The Saturday Farmers’ Market at Kapiolani Community College Campus, 4303 Diamond Head Road, Honolulu • 7:30–11 a.m.
Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei
Waialua Farmers’ Market Waialua Sugar Mill • 8:30 a.m. –Noon
Hawai`i Kai Townw Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole St., Honolulu • 7:30 a.m. –3 p.m.
Waianae Framers’ Market Makaha Resort, 84-626 Makaha Valley Road Waianae, 808-848-2074. 1st and 3rd Sat of the month 7:30 a.m. – 11 a.m.
SUNDAYS Hale`iwa Farmers’ Market The Heart of Hale`iwa, Traffic Signal @ Kamehameha Hwy. & Cane Haul Rd. Next to the North Shore Marketplace (free parking) • 9am.-1pm.
Kahului Shopping Ctr • 7 a.m.–4 p.m.
61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–4 p.m.
(People’s Open Market), 91-1049 Kamaaha Loop, Kapolei • 7–8:30 a.m.
Royal Kunia Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market), Kupuna Lp/Kupohi Street, Waipahu • 9:30–11 a.m.
Kahului Shopping Ctr • 7 a.m.–4 p.m.
Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana 9a.m. - 5p.m.
SATURDAY Maui Swap Meet Maui Community College 310 Ka`aumanu • 7am.-1pm.
Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Kahului Shopping Ctr • 7 a.m.–4 p.m.
Makawao Eddie Tam Center, Upcountry 7a.m.-10a.m.
Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana • 9a.m. - 5p.m.
Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana • 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. WEDNESDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei
Hana Health Hana Medical Center • 9a.m. - 5p.m. SUNDAY Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana 9a.m. - 2p.m.
61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–4 p.m.
Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana • 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai
Lana`i Farmers’ Market
3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) 7–11 a.m.
SATURDAY Lana`i Market Place Dole Park • 8 a.m.-1p.m.
Kahului Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Kahului Shopping Ctr • 7 a.m.–4 p.m.
Kapolei Community Park
The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Mall, 275 Kaahumanu
The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Mall, 275 Kaahumanu
Moloka`i Farmers’ Market SATURDAY Ala Malama Street Kaunakakai • 7a.m.-1p.m.
Avenue, Kahului • 7 a.m. –4 p.m.
Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana • 9a.m. - 5p.m.
www.ediblealoha.com
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Advertisers Directory
Kaua`i Bar Acuda Restaurant Bar @ 5 p.m. Dinner @ 6 p.m. Reservations: 808-826-7081 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kaua`i Closed Mondays www.restaurantbaracuda.com The Eastside Pacific Rim Cuisine Music Tues. Sat. 5:30-9:00pm 1380 Kuhio Hwy. Kapaa Town www.theeastsidekauai.com • 808-823-9500 Garden Ponds Classes in “Secrets of Water Gardening” Mauka of Banana Joe’s, Kilauea 808-826-6400 • gardenpondskauai.com Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant, Fish Market & Sushi Lounge 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kaua’i 808-826-6113 Healthy Hut Natural Food Grocery On the way to Kilauea Lighthouse 808-828-6626 Hendrikus Organics It all starts with the soil 808-828-0099 • www.hendrikusorganics.com Kilauea Fish Market 4270 Kilauea Rd., Kilauea, Kaua’i 808-828-6244 Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Kilauea Town Market 2474 Keneke St., Kilauea, Kaua`i 808-828-1512 • Daily 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m. KKCR Kaua`i Community Radio 808-826-7774 PO Box 825, Hanalei, Kaua’i 96714 Listener Supported • www.kkcr.org
Koa Properties 808-651-1777 • www.koakauai.com Moloa`a Camp Coffee Award Winning Natural Coffee Available online and at select Kaua`i Farmers Markets 866-722-2659 • www.moloaabaycoffee.com Moloa`a Sunrise Fruit Stand Corner of Kuhio Hwy and Koolau Road Farm Fresh Local Grown Produce, Smoothies, Juices, Salads & Sandwiches Open Mon thru Sat 7:30am–5pm Phone orders welcome • 808-822-1441 Nani Moon Mead Tropical Honey Wine Tasting Room in Kapa`a 4-939 D Kuhio Hwy 808-823-0486 • www.nanimoonmead.com Papaya’s Natural Food & Café Organic Produce Vegetarian Café Kaua`i Village 4-831 Kuhio Hwy. Kapa`a, Kaua`i • 808-823-0190 Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-8 p.m. www.papayasnaturalfoods.com Papaya’s Hanalei Natural Food & Café Organic Produce Vegetarian Café 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy. Hanalei, Kaua`i 808-826-0089 • 7 days 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Post Cards Café Organic cuisine in Vintage cottage in Hanalei • Nightly from 6:00 • 826-1101 Princeville Center 5-4280 Kuhio Highway, Princeville, HI 96722 808-826-9497 T. 808-826-9850 F. www.princevillecenter.com The Wine Garden 4495 Puhi Road, Lihu`e, Kaua`i Fine Wine, Vintage Port Hand-Rolled Kaua`i Cigars • Open everyday 10am-6:30pm 808-245-5766 • www.kauaiwinegarden.com
Kauai Granola Sugar Cane Snax, Homemade Cookies, tropical, Granolas, Chocolate dipped Macaroons In Historic Waimea 808-338-0121 • www.kauaigranola.com 48
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edible hawaiian islands
Archipelago Hawai`i Refined Island Designs, Dealer for major appliances, Cabinetry, furnishings, Fabrics & finishes On Maui: In Lahaina Business Center 808-667-0808 On O`ahu: In Kailua 905 Kalanianaole Hwy 808-263-8891 www.archipelagohawaii.com Arturo’s Hot Flavors of Hawai`i Hawaiian Salsas & Sauces Candies, Cookies, Coffees & More All Kine Gifts – All Hawai`i Made 808-751-1811 • www.hotsaucehawaii.com Hagadone Printing Co. World Class Printing Without Harming The World 274 Puuhale Road, Honolulu, HI 96819 808-847-5310 • www.hagadonprinting.com Hokulani Bake Shop Restaurant Row • Pioneer Plaza 15 flavors of Cupcakes 808-536-CAKE www.hokulanibakeshop.com twitter.com/HokulaniBakery Honu Group Inc. 1001 Bishop Street ASB Tower, Suite 2800 Honolulu, Hawai`i 96722 808-550-4449 • tabenoja@honugroup.com www.honugroup.com Kula Fields Locally Grown, delivered To your home On Maui 808-280-2099 On O`ahu 808-281-6141 Sweet Paradise Chocolatier The Art of Chocolate Hawaiian Style 20-A Kainehe Street, Kailua 808-230-8228 www.sweetparadisechocolate.com Whole Foods Market Supporting the local farmers And growers here on the Islands Kahala Mall in Honolulu 4211 Wai`alae Ave 808-738-0820 – 7am-10pm www.wholefoodsmarket.com
Photo by Oliver Cohen
Aunty Lilikoi Passion Fruit Products Award Winning flavor! 9875 Waimea Rd., Waimea, HI 96796 866-545-4564 • www.auntylilikoi.com
O`ahu
National
Maui AKL Visit for a Day of Lavender 1100 Waipoli Rd, Kula 808-878-3004 • www.aklmaui.com
Ono Organic Farm Exotic Organic Tropical Fruit Tasting Tours Mon-Fri 808-248-7779 • www.onofarms.com
Alive & Well Natural Health Foods 340 Hana Highway, Kahului 808-877-4950 www.aliveandwellinmaui.com
Wild Lily Chef Jana McMahon Private Chef, On all islands 808-281-8393 • www.chefjana.com
Archipelago Hawai`i Refined Island Designs, Dealer for major appliances, Cabinetry, furnishings, Fabrics & finishes On Maui: In Lahaina Business Center 808-667-0808 On O`ahu: In Kailua 905 Kalanianaole Hwy 808-263-8891 www.archipelagohawaii.com Flatbread Voted Best Family Restaurant 89 Hana Hwy, Paia 808-579-8989 • www.flatbreadcompany.com Hana Fresh A True Hawaiian Harvest Daily Market in front of Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy 808-248-7515 • www.hanafresh.org Kula Fields Locally Grown, delivered To your home On Maui 808-280-2099 On O`ahu 808-281-6141 Maui Cattle Company Island Grazed & All Natural 808-877-0044 www.mauicattlecompany.com Maui County Farm Bureau Local Matters Look for Grown on Maui www.mauicountyfarmbureau.com
Whole Foods Market Supporting the local farmers And growers here on the Islands Maui Mall, 70 East Ka’ahumanu Ave 808-872-3310 – 8am-9pm www.wholefoodsmarket.com
Slow Food – Hawai`i Island Shelby Floyd sfloyd@ahfi.com Slow Food – Kaua`i Patrick Quinn Icingonthecake.Kauai@gmail.com Slow Food – Maui Netra Halperin netra@slowfoodmaui.org www.slowfoodmaui.org Slow Food – O`ahu Laurie Carleson laurie@honoluluweekly.com Slow Food Nation • www.slowfoodnation.org
Hawai`i Island Island Naturals Award Winning Market & Deli At Hilo Shopping Ctr, Downtown Kona, Old Industrial, Kaiwi St. Kainaliu, Mango Court & Pahoa Village www.islandnaturals.com Kona Coffee and Tea Home of 100% organic World Wide Shipping Toll Free 888-873-2035 In Kona 329-6577 www.konacoffeeandtea.com Kona Sea Salt 100% Natural Deep Sea Water Theresa Fernandez Theresa@konaseasalt.com www.konaseasalt.com Original Hawaiian Chocolate Made & Grown on the Island of Hawai`i, Featured at Whole Foods Kahala/O`ahu 808-322-2626 Kona Coffee 808-329-6577 • www.konacoffeeandtea.com
Ono Gelato Company Made fresh using local organic fruit. 115D Highway-Paia • 808-579-9201 815 Front Street – Lahaina 808-495-0203 Open 7 days a week 11 am-10pm www.onogelatocompany.com www.ediblealoha.com
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Eggfruit
Photo by Lauren Brandt
what is it & how do you eat it?
Eggfruit: Canistel (patutaria campechiana) Highest natural occurrence of Vitamin A, with high levels of carotene, B3 and other B vitamins. The flesh is the same color as the outside, and on the dry side. The taste is similar to sweet potatoes with maple syrup, or sweet mashed carrots. To eat, it should be soft like and avocado, not mushy. You can spoon it out and eat straight away, or squeeze limejuice on it. The Internet shows up with recipes as varied as eggfruit-coconut bread to milk shakes. If you have a favorite way to eat eggfruit, send us an email, info@ediblehawaiianislands.com
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edible hawaiian islands