edible Hawaiian Islands Summer 2012 by Edible Hawaiian Islands Archives

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Celebrating the Harvest of the Aloha State, Season by Season No. 21 Summer 2012

Hula & Food Local Ice Cream In A Pickle

edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

Helping Horses Member of Edible Communities

summer 2012 Contents Departments 4 LETTER OF ALOHA 7 NOTABLE EDIBLES 32 COOKING FRESH WITH HUKILAU LANAI 49 EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS LOCAL DINING GUIDE 52 FARMERS’ MARKETS 56 ADVERTISERS DIRECTORY 58 WHAT IS IT AND HOW DO YOU EAT IT

Features 8 HULA AND FOOD by Jon Letman 13 HELPING HORSES by Jade Eckardt 17 THERE’S A CATCH by Wanda Adams 22 USING THEIR NOODLE by Tim Ryan 28 IN A PICKLE by Ken Love 41 LITTLE HERB THAT COULD by Sophie Schweitzer

44 47

SHAVE ICE, IT’S NOT A SNOW CONE by G. Natale RECIPE WAVE by Editor At Large

Cover photo

KEIKI HULA DANCERS FROM HALAU HULA O HOKULANI DANCING AT THE KAPIOLANI PARK. By Ann Cecil/PhotoRecourceHawaii.com WWW.EDIBLEALOHA.COM

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Letter I of Aloha

love summer in Hawai`i—the color of the sky, the water and the mountains all become more clear and intense, yet there is something very peaceful about this intensity. We have seasons in the Hawaiian Islands; most people who have never visited are not aware of this and are often surprised. We have different fruits, vegetables and flowers in summer than we do in winter, and though our growing seasons may be longer than most places in North America, we also do have spring and fall, where the changes all begin. Right now the sweet smell of plumeria and gardenia is everywhere—it smells like summer in Hawai`i.

I also love summer because it’s our birthday. Celebrate with us as we enter our sixth year of telling the stories of amazing people and places we have met along the way. I am always happy to hear how much people savor their copies of edible Hawaiian Islands, and keep them as a collection for reference. We often get emails from someone who has just discovered us and wants to have the entire collection. Of course we can only do this while the issues last. In case your not aware, you can have a Digital Version of EHI delivered to your desktop, or your can download from iTunes an edible Hawaiian Islands app for your iPhone or iPad. What do we all think about in summer? Ice cream, of course—see our Notable Edibles on page 7 to find the best locally made ice cream in the Hawaiian Islands. My favorite flavor just happens to be coconut, though it is always a tough decision. You’ll also find lots of fresh locally made gelato and shave ice to help keep you cool. For a little history of shave ice in Hawai`i, see page 44. Wishing everyone a special summer aloha,

Gloria

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Hawaiian Islands Publisher/Editor in Chief Gloria Cohen Editor at Large Steven Cohen Advertising & Distribution FrontDesk@ediblealoha.com Dania Katz, Oàhu & Maui Terry Sullivan, Kauaì Lana Grace, Hawaiì Island Contributors Kira Cohen • Melissa Petersen Tracey Ryder • Carole Topalian Photography Lauren Brandt • Oliver Cohen Steven Cohen • G. Natale Artists Cindy Conklin • Ed McCabe • Mary Ogle Writers Wanda Adams • Jade Eckardt Jon Letman • Ken Love • G. Natale Tim Ryan • Sophie Schweitzer Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Food Research Editor Ken Love Research & Events Editor Lila Martin

Contact Us Edible Aloha PO Box 753, Kilauea, HI 96754 • 808-828-1559 FrontDesk@EdibleAloha.com www.EdibleAloha.com Subscribe * Give A Gift * Advertise Call: 808-828-1559 Or use the above email or web address Letters For the quickest response, email FrontDesk@EdibleAloha.com Edible Hawaiian Islands is published quarterly by Edible Hawaiian Islands LLC. All rights reserved. Spring * Summer * Fall * Winter Subscription is $28 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. ©2012. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error has escaped our attention, please notify us and accept our sincere apologies. Mahalo!

Edible Hawaiian Islands is printed in Honolulu, HI Follow us on Facebook & Twitter

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notable

edibles Maui

Kaua`i

Takasa Guri Guri is a food institution on Maui. For generations this local sweet spot has been much more than a cool treat. The guri guri is part sorbet, part ice cream, and has been locally made with a secret recipe by the same family for over 100 years. Just two flavors—strawberry and pineapple—and you order by the amount of scoops. No website or Facebook page. Located at the Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka`ahumanu Ave. #C13, Kahului, Maui, HI 96732; 808-8714513. Make sure you take a container home for later too!

Papalani Gelato. When you walk into Papalani Gelato, right away you understand the true meaning of the store name. Papalani Gelato means “heavenly gelato” in Hawaiian. They make everything on premises, from traditional and organic gelato and sorbet to gelato cakes and pies. Their tropical flavors are made from locally sourced fruit—which we really appreciate. Then just after you savor their gelato, try their homemade chocolates. All hand-crafted from the best chocolate available. I wonder what they will create next. Certainly worth a trip to their location at the Poipu Shopping Center, 2360 Kiahuna Plantation Rd., Koloa, Kaua`i HI 96756; 808742-CONE (2663); papalanigelato.com

Photo credit: Maxfx/Dreamstime.com

Oàhu Bubbies Homemade Ice Cream & Desserts is the blend of two food cultures, Japanese and American. Best described as soft, smooth, chewy round-shaped mochi covering decadent homemade ice cream. For some eaters it’s the perfect one bite; others savor it in two or three bites. Some eat it frozen; others like myself sit and wait for a few minutes until the ice cream is soft and almost melted. The combination of the chewy mochi and rich ice cream is heaven. The flavors are traditional to tropical and even green tea and adzuki bean. They have three locations on Oàhu and, lucky for us, you can also purchase it at some grocery stores around the state. I suggest you try one right from the freezer and then let the next one thaw a bit and see how you like to eat them best! Hawaiì Kai at Koko Marine Shopping Center, 7192 Kalanianaole Hwy. #D103 Varsity Center, 1010 University Ave., Honolulu Factory (not a retail store) 99-1267 Waiua Place #B, Aiea, HI 96701; 808-487-7218; bubbiesicecream.com

Hawai`i Island Tropical Dreams Ice Cream is known all over the Islands and, lucky for folks who live on the Big Island, this is where they make their homemade delicious ice cream. They are true to the “farm-to-table” movement but I like to call it farm-to-ice-cream! They have their own farm and grow many of their own tropical flavors. Also be on the lookout for their other brand, called Hilo Homemade Ice Cream. When on the Big Island you can get a scoop at Kohala Coffee Mill in Hawi. We love supporting locally made foods and appreciate the effort that goes into each pint. Located at 66-1250 Lalamilo Farm Rd., Kamuela, HI; 808-885-8820; tropicaldreamsicecream.com

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Hula

&Food

Eating with your hands BY JON LETMAN

t its very essence, hula is the expression of the Hawaiian people and their relationship with the spiritual and physical worlds. Through stylized movements, subtle gestures and ceremonies that have evolved over centuries, hula is the embodiment of Hawaiian culture―an instantly recognizable display of what is most important to kanaka maoli (native Hawaiians). And while those outside the world of hula may not immediately associate the dance and chants with food, there is a strong, ancient connection that persists today. The gathering, offering and consuming of plant and animal food are what nourish the body and soul of the Hawaiian people and so that relationship between food and hula is only natural.

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“It makes sense that hula tells the story of food—which is, after all, a central component of human culture,” says Sally Jo Keahi Manea, who has been dancing hula for 55 years. “Food is always entwined with the cultural practices of indigenous people. That’s no different with native Hawaiians,” she says. Manea calls hula the expression of the “Hawaiian story,” an art that tells of foundational foods like kalo (taro), i`a (fish), pua`a (pig) and limu (edible seaweed). Take kalo as an example. Hula has many motions that express eating poi, the traditional Hawaiian staple made of pounded kalo corms.

Describing a dance called Huki i ke kalo (“pulling the taro”) Manea says: “We start with both hands facing the body, alternately moving from the throat down to the stomach to suggest the path the food takes. At the end we tap the belly to indicate “òno―mmmmm―delicious!” Manea cites legendary kumu hula (master hula teacher) Edith Kanakaòle’s performance of Nā òno o ka`āina, which tells of the importance of different types of kalo. Other dances describe gathering limu, eating fish and pulling hukilau (traditional Hawaiian fishing net). “Those hapa halole songs from the 1930s and ‘40s that talked about going to lūàu and eating poi are still popular,” Manea says, adding

that they shouldn’t be discounted or seen as simply hokey songs without merit. Such songs, popularized in àuana (modern) hula are worthwhile in their own way because they describe cultural practices like food gathering, Manea says, referring to one of the most popular―The Hukilau Song―which tells of a community coming together to pull traditional fish nets: “Everybody loves a hukilau, where the laulau is the kaukau at the hukilau. We’ll throw our nets out into the sea, and all the àmaàma come swimming to me…” WWW.EDIBLEALOHA.COM

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Beyond popular songs and light-hearted associations between hula and food, there is a deeper, spiritual connection between the maka `āinanana (common people) and the realm of the gods expressed through hula. Kēhaulani Kekua, a kumu hula on Kauaì, says that while most strict protocols relating food to hula are no longer practiced, her hālau (school) still observes a number of rituals that include prayer, meditation and dietary guidelines. One of the most important of these practices still followed today is àilolo, a ceremony that marks the end of a period of hula training or `ūniki (graduation). `Āilolo, which literally means “eat brain,” symbolizes the consumption and digestion of intelligence and knowledge, Kekua says. In an àilolo ceremonial meal, hula students, teachers and their peers eat certain prescribed foods gathered from the land and sea. These plants, animals and fish are kinolau or earthly manifestations of the gods. Kinolau are considered sacred as their forms represent specific deities such as Kane and Lono (in the form of taro), Kanaloa (bananas) and Laka (mountain apple), patroness of hula. Ùlu (breadfruit) is a kinolau of Haumea, the Earth Mother, and represents physical, intellectual and spiritual growth. It’s important to note that just as deities are represented by one than one kinolau, a single god may have multiple names (Haumea, Papa, Laìlaì all refer to the female role in creation). Kekua says that in the context of hula ceremonies, other foods like poi, steamed lūàu (taro leaves), ùala (sweet potato), hōìò ferns and paàkai (salt) were prescribed foods or, in some cases, kapu (sacred and restricted). Likewise, àwa (kava), which is typically imbibed as a drink, is both sacred and used as a ceremonial offering. Gathered from coastal waters, two types of seaweed important in hula are limu kohu, which is eaten, and limu kala, which is not eaten but used in cleansing and purification, as part of a ceremonial rite before a hula ceremony. In addition to plant foods, both the pig and certain fish were eaten for àilolo and had specific associations depending on their color (a black pig was desired as a sacrificial offering and red fish were associated with the divine). Traditionally, puaà (pig), a kinolau of Kane, was not consumed on a daily basis but was presented as a sacred tribute and ritualistically eaten. 10

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Kekua explains, “The essence was offered to deities while the substance was for human consumption.” No matter what attribute was linked with a certain food, she says, each represented a desired expertise or knowledge, which, once acquired, brought with it added responsibility. These qualities that manifest themselves in food were all part of a greater culture, Kekua says. “There’s a process to everything. There are prayers and protocols the hula practitioner adheres to and engages in before the actual gatherings.” When something is taken for food, a reciprocal offering is always made, whether it’s a chanted prayer or something material like a part of that food. These customs, Kekua adds, while not followed as widely as they once were, remain important to teach and perpetuate because, in her words, “It makes us much more conscious of the sacredness and importance of these natural resources.” There are also times when no food is eaten. Mauli Ola Cook, who graduated as a hoòpaà (drummer and chanter) and serves as an alakaì (lead instructor) for her own kumu, says that a hula graduation may be preceded by a fast that leads up to the communal eating of certain parts of a pig―the brain for intelligence, the hoof for better dancing, the ear to make you listen better, and so on. Cook says that in her hālau ritual fasting sometimes precedes a hula ceremony that honors a specific place. That fast will be broken as a group after making offerings of thanks and eating Hawaiian food that embodies hula culture. And while not all hālau follow the same customs, she says, “We respect other people’s knowledge, but we follow our kumu.” “I recall once we were at a place called Laka or Kē`ē. We had done ceremonial bathing and gone to visit a heiau. When we came down, someone had prepared fish and poi, which we ate ceremonially together as a small group. Everyone had to have just so much and it all had to be finished. It was a very lovely, spiritual way of sharing.”

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hick white mist blankets the rolling emerald hills of Kamuela after days of continuous Big Island rain. An occasional break in clouds offers a peek at blue sky, and the cool winds of Waimea move across 50 acres of land, thick with green grass for the 18 horses that live there to graze on. Two mares, whose size alone demands respect from anyone they meet, stretch their necks over the fence that defines the vast pasture and huge yard. One’s coat is a healthy chestnut brown, and the other is a lighter tawny shade. Their muscles look strong

and defined as they both nuzzle their faces warmly into the hands of Nancy Jones, who owns both the property and the horses. Jones is also the organizer behind the annual Hawai`i Island Horse Expo, an event that seeks to educate people about horse training and to fund the Hawai`i Island Humane Society’s Horse Rescue Fund, which takes in abused and abandoned equines, helps them get healthy and finds new homes for them. Both mares can be described as healthy, friendly, and confident— qualities they didn’t hold before Jones took them in. Just months

Helping Horses

Expo helps promote, fund equine rescue effort BY JADE ECKARDT

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ago, these mares and six other horses were rescued from Waipio Valley where they faced a certain doom: starving, alone, left to die. “See how short their tails are?” Jones asks, gesturing with a longsleeved arm to fight off the chilly mid-morning breeze. Each mare’s tail measures about half the length of most horses’. “They were starved for so long they had started eating each other’s tails and feces,” she recalls. All eight equines were trapped on a bare one-acre parcel of land with no food, water or foliage to eat. Down in the valley, nestled along the Hamakua Coast not far from Waimea, wild horses are a common sight. But while the wild ones roam the lush valley finding food and water, these horses weren’t afforded that luxury. A young mare now named Baby was so weak when found that she couldn’t stand up. “The owner had used them for whatever he needed to, and when he was done just locked them on the land to die,” says Jones, shaking her head. They narrowly escaped death thanks to the Horse Rescue Fund, a branch of the Hawai`i Island Humane Society that rescues abused and abandoned horses, caring for them until they’re adopted out. Now all eight horses, which have been dubbed the “Waipio Horses,” live on Jones’s land. “I take the worst cases that no one wants,” she says. Until recently there was a horse rescue program but no designated and appropriate area to house the horses for recuperation. Now just outside the Waimea Humane Society’s office is a pasture secured by a fence and gate, and boasting a wooden shelter area for the horses. A sign on the fence that draws a line between pasture and parking area states “Reserved for Nancy Jones.” Jones isn’t officially part of the Humane Society, but she plays an integral role. A former Los Angeles television producer, Jones left a successful career in the industry, moved to Waimea and purchased her property 14 years ago. As organizer of the Hawai`i Horse Expo, 2012 will be her fifth year on the job. The weekend-long affair, according to Jones, educates horse people about training methods based on mutual trust and respect, not forced submission. A display of this sort also pays homage to the Big Island’s—and Waimea’s, in particular—rich history as paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) stomping grounds. The Expo’s proceeds are donated to the Horse Rescue Fund. On August 11 and 12 the Expo will draw people from all areas of the world of horsemanship, along with viewers and vendors, to Pukalani Stables located in Waimea and owned by Parker Ranch. This year the expo is partnering with the Paniolo Preservation Society to co-host the event at the Society’s Paniolo Heritage Center at 14

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the stables. For over five decades the stables were one of the premier horse breeding and training facilities in the Northern Hemisphere, making them a natural and historically relevant fit for the location. A quick visit to the stables is proof of the consciousness about horses that is making its way back into the community. A “Paniolo Hall of Fame” lines one room at the stables. A small paniolo museum displays a wide array of original horse riding and raising tools, gear and photos. Each year the Expo has drawn a huge number of guests and been a success, good news for the horse rescue fund. “We’re expanding. We have the shelter area and a horse trailer. It’s good because we’re well equipped to help, but it shows that the amount of horses in need of help isn’t declining,” says Natalie Tavares, Waimea shelter manager and horse lover, who has large photos of her equine “babies” decorating the wall of her office. Unfortunately, all signs point to her being right. She and Jones both point to financial hardship as one driving force behind horse abandonment. “A lot of folks think getting a horse will be fun, and of course it is. But it’s not as easy or cheap as people think,” she says. “They think they can just leave them grazing in the yard, but for proper nutrition they need bales of hay at almost $40 each. Then in times of financial hardship, the horse is the first thing to go.” While equine hardship on the Big Island may continue, so will the people dedicating their energy to helping the animals, and they’re not all from the island. The Expo itself draws out-of-towners who are big names in the world of horsemanship, to serve as clinicians and presenters. Jones even has help from a real-life cowboy named Rial Tate, who came over from his home in Montana to help with several of the Waipio horses, which can’t seem to fully emotionally recover from their situation. Ryle, wearing a cowboy hat and boots, stands near the field where two of the wildest Waipio horses roam; a huge barn Jones had constructed is nearby. He nods at the horses. “These ones are emotionally scarred. They respond differently; you can tell they’ve been hurt, like a human who’s been through a traumatic experience.” Farther up the property where her own home lies, Jones points to Baby. “When she was found, they had to lift her into the trailer and today children pet her and she’s sort of the face of the organization.” Looking at Baby standing strong in thick vibrant green grass, she’s a perfect example of what the Hawaii Horse Rescue Fund can do. For more info, visit www.hawaiihorseexpo.com

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T here’s a Catch Harvesting, shopping for fish is no simple trick BY WANDA A. ADAMS

Recipes from a soon-to-be-released cookbook on Island seafood, A Splash of Aloha, by chefs and experts working with a NOAA grant at Kapi`iolani Community College. Watch for it in August.

The key is the United Fishing Agency’s daily fish auction at Pier 38 on O`ahu. There, a buyer can learn not only which boat brought each fish in but the very day on which it was caught. United Fishing Agency deals only with fishing vessels that are registered—those who fish beyond the three-mile limit and bring in the bulk of the commercial catch.

The size of Hawai`i’s major fishing fleet is capped at 164 permitted vessels, of which about 130 are active, said Jim Cook of POP Fishing and Marine Supply, who has fished all his life and owns six boats, a marine supply outlet and a couple of ice operations with his partner, Sean Martin.

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e’re told to eat more fish, for good health. We’re told the seas are being decimated and overfishing is causing fish shortages. What to do to be responsible and still eat fish?

Lucky us. We live in the state where the wild-fish catch—those outside the three-mile boundary for these long-line fishing vessels— is more highly regulated, monitored and studied than any other, says researcher and writer John Kaneko of the Hawaii Seafood Council, a nonprofit organization dedicated to education and research on quality, health benefits, safety and sustainability of Island seafood. We live in a state that has banned trawling (dragging nets on the bottom) for fish, a practice that results in a tragic habitat destruction and wasteful bycatch of endangered fish and even mammals. Our ocean fish are caught using lines played out by powerful reels, with row upon row of individual hooks attached as the line goes over the side. Or by trolling lures at the surface or the more labor-intensive hand-line methods, in which weighted hooks are dropped to the depths.

A license costs about $70,000 and boats run from $500,000 to $1 million. But landed fish prices at the fish auction are not pre-set as elsewhere. Bidding is competitive and fishermen generally get fair prices in the long run. These boats are required to carry observers from the federal National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), who spend the entire 20-day or so voyage tracking fishing practices and assisting fishermen with protected species interactions. Fish must be cleaned and gutted at sea immediately on catch and iced throughout the trip. At 5:50 on a recent Monday morning, two boats were in: the Kelly Ann, offloading 25,000 pounds of fish, and the Logan, with 11,000. Expected momentarily was the Holly, with an estimated 25,000 pounds. WWW.EDIBLEALOHA.COM

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Kaneko walks the arctically chilled, football-field-sized room with me, eyeing the catch laid out on pallets sprinkled with ice, each fish with a core of flesh placed on top, and a wedge cut from the tail, allowing the buyers—old hands with sharp eyes—to “look inside.” They’re judging color, clarity and oil content. There is a strict hierarchy as the gaggle of buyers shuffle and bump each other along the line: Bigeye tuna first, yellowfin tuna, albacore (tombo), aku, wahoo (ono), mahi mahi and a mixed bag of others— opah (moonfish), monchong (pomfret), billfish (marlin and so on), spearfish (hebi) and other open-ocean fish. The buyers joke and trade gossip and information as they work, cell phones clutched in their hands as they call back to their shops or processing operations. In 2011, the Hawai`i long-line fishery produced 82.5% of all Hawai`i commercial fish landings and 86.9% of landed value. Virtually all of the landings pass through the United Fishing Agency auction.

A Splash of Aloha, now in production, will be released by Kapi`iolani Community College in August. It is both a recipe collection and a guide to the fish of Hawaiian deep waters, aquacultured Island seafood and a smattering of nearer-shore fish and it includes the latest information about the relationship between seafood and good health. The recipes are do-able by the average home cook, but often a bit out of the ordinary. Watch for it. Here’s a shortcut version of a familiar dish that is sophisticated enough for a company meal, fast enough for a last-minute potluck, created by chef Carol Nardello.

Pasta Puttanesca with Ahi Poke 8 ounces prepared ahi poke (not spicy)* 1 pound bowtie pasta 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced

It was an average day. One thing did stand out: aku (skipjack tuna), or the lack of it. The Islands have a voracious appetite for aku. And there were nine of them. Nine. “These buyers could easily sell 10,000–15,000 pounds a day,” Kaneko said. “But whatever it is, somebody’s gonna buy it, somebody’s gonna eat it,” he added.

½ onion, chopped 1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes 1 cup white wine 3 tablespoons capers, drained 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried) ⅓ cup Kalamata olives, pitted and quartered 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 can (2 ounces) anchovies in olive oil, chopped, reserve oil

There is a market for all the fish landed. Afterward, warming up with coffee at the nearby Nico’s Pier 38, Kaneko reflects: “This is our last wild food. This isn’t agriculture.” He spouts statistics: Health—Fascinating research has been done about the importance of long-chain omega-3 fatty acids (DHA and EPA), found only in fresh ocean fish or fish oil supplements, and their effect on health (fighting a number of forms of heart disease and stroke, possibly effective in mitigating diabetes and even arthritis, even affecting mood and brain function).

2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped

Prepare pasta according to package directions. Drain well and rinse with cold water. Drain any juice from the poke and discard. Into a large preheated skillet, pour reserved anchovy oil and olive oil. Add garlic and onions and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes along with juice, wine, capers, rosemary, olives, pepper and anchovies.

There’s even research that suggests that the reason why our form of humanoid, Homo sapiens, outstripped the others in brain size and learning ability was a diet of seafood containing DHA and EPA. Middens high on the South African shoreline suggest that fish and shellfish were much eaten. Today, American mothers’ milk contains so little DHA and EPA they might as well be living in the Sahara.

Increase heat to medium-high and cook for 3 minutes or until sauce slightly thickens.

Understanding fish—Kaneko says we’re only 3% of the Pacific bigeye tuna fishing effort but we provide 85% of the independent observer data for the entire international fleet. And what researchers know is often at odds with what the general public believes.

*Optional: Substitute 2 (5-ounce) cans of tuna packed in water, drained, for poke.

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Add drained poke and stir until just barely cooked through. Combine cooked poke, sauce and parsley with prepared pasta. Toss well to heat through.

Makes 4–6 servings

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Photo by Adriana Torres Chong / A Splash of Aloha

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Photo by Adriana Torres Chong / A Splash of Aloha

Broiled Opah with Toscano Kale by Kevin Tate Makes 4 servings

This recipe makes use of Toscano (Tuscan) kale, also called Dino or Dinosaur or Lacinato kale, a variety with dark green, slim ruffled leaves and a sweet flavor. This variety grows like a weed in the Islands. Be sure not to overcook the kale; it should have a slight crispness. Butter instead of oil gives this broiled fish dish its touch of the South. Six to 8 cups might sound like a lot of kale, but the vegetable reduces a great deal when cooked, like spinach. Find Toscano kale at Whole Foods, Kokua Market and other health food stores and farmers’ markets.

2 tablespoons butter, divided use Juice of ½ lemon 1 tablespoon white wine 1½ tablespoons garlic powder ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, leaves stripped and chopped fine* 1 pound opah 6–8 cups chopped Toscano kale (1 large bunch) ½ cup sweet peppers, red, yellow, or orange, short julienne

Take the Japanese, for example, said to be swooping in and paying top dollar for the most desirable fish. Not so, says Cook of POP Fishing and Marine. Ask him the major challenges to fishing in this state and the Japanese aren’t even on his list. He ticks them off: A good crew (not only sea-, fish- and people-savvy but able to operate high-tech computerized equipment). High fuel costs. Weather. Breakdowns. Environmental challenges. Japan? They get maybe 1% of our fish, he said. If that. Fish experts such as Kaneko, Cook and United Fishing Agency assistant general manager Brooks Takenaka and buyer Guy Tamashiro of famed Tamashiro Market, get very, very tired of unfounded rumors. Sometimes, as happened last year, a fishery is temporarily shut down as our fleet fulfills its fishing quota. Other fleets in the Pacific aren’t as responsible. Forget The Perfect Storm, where heroic (or possibly foolhardy) Gloucestermen ignore perilous weather conditions to “corner the market.” Captains are cautious, Cook said. Ecological factors can be as simple as water depth. Fish that swim in warmer shallower waters have less fat content and are smaller; many aggregate around buoys or seamounts. Though easily caught, these may not fetch as high a price as fish richer in fat.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 red onion, sliced thin ½ teaspoon pepper

Wanda Adams is a Honolulu-based writer and editor who is only now learning to understand local seafood and experiment more.

Melt butter in microwave (45 seconds at 30%). In a zippered plastic bag, combine melted butter, lemon juice, wine, 1 tablespoon garlic powder, ¼ teaspoon salt and thyme. Cut fish into 4 even pieces and place in the plastic bag with butter-lemon-thyme marinade; marinate 10 minutes. Broil fish 3 minutes (do not turn). Remove from oven and let sit while preparing kale. Place olive oil in large skillet or wok, heat over medium heat, add onion and peppers and toss to coat with oil. Add kale, remaining garlic powder, salt and pepper. Stir-fry 3 minutes, until kale begins to wilt. Add remaining butter. When butter has melted, remove greens to serving plates and top with broiled fish. *To easily strip leaves from stalks of thyme, run fingers down stalk from top to bottom; leaves will pop off.

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Using Their

Noodle Innovation, specialization keep pasta purveyors afloat BY TIM RYAN

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alking into O`ahu’s Chun Wah Kam Noodle Factory, where five tons of noodles are made each day, you pass by vats of boiling water. Virtually everything is covered by the white dust used to keep the finished product from sticking together. The temperature inside hovers just under 90°. A half-dozen workers wearing hairnets and long white aprons are mixing dough in large rectangular stainless steel machines, then packing lumps of the dough through several 10-inch rollers that press and thin it. After it’s thinned, the noodle roll is removed from the spool and then sliced into narrow strands. Chun Wah Kam, one of the oldest noodle factories in Hawai`i, was started by Wah Kam Chun in 1942, during World War II, two years after he immigrated from Zhong-Shan, China. After working in a number of different jobs and learning the trade, Wah Kam decided it was time to try things on his own, said grandson Gary Chang, who is the factory manager. The factory was first located on Kukui Street in Chinatown and then near Dillingham Plaza. Today, the factory is located at 505 Kalihi St., where it makes noodles and wrappers for various restaurants, grocery stores and other companies on a daily basis.

most variety and, some say, the best in town. After the success of the dim sum, the company began offering plate lunches and dinners. The company is especially proud of its Hong Kong–style noodle. “It’s our finest noodle,” Chang said. “It’s very, very thin. “If you’ve ever gone to a fine Chinese restaurant, they offer a Hong Kong–style noodle.” One of the company’s most popular noodles is its chow mein “local style,” he said.

The Kalihi factory also has a fast-food restaurant where it serves plate lunches and manapua.

“They don’t have that anywhere else,” he said. “If you went to Mainland China or Hong Kong or to the mainland [United States], there is no such thing as a chow mein noodle like we have here.

Chun Wah Kam Noodle Factory makes eight varieties of noodles, said Chang, who began working here as needed when he was in elementary school.

The basic ingredients for making noodles are pretty much the same: eggs, water, flour, gluten. But what attracts customers is how they are made.

“What distinguishes noodles are the size, shape and ingredients,” he said. “And the ingredients always depend on what the noodles are used for. We put certain things in noodles that are going to be used in soup as opposed to noodles that are going to be used for frying.”

“You can’t just add a bucket full of eggs and a ton of gluten and hope it will come out … that doesn’t work,” Chang said. “Over the years we have had to figure things out a lot by experimenting.”

That’s because one type of noodle needs to hold up better in water— meaning having a slower absorption rate—and not fall apart.

One quarter of the recipes still being used at Chun Wah Kam were design by Chang’s grandfather. About a half-dozen family members work for the company and also contributed recipes.

“You wouldn’t do that same process for frying because the noodle would be too chewy … and not pleasant tasting,” Chang said.

“We had a [now retired] noodle maker who worked at the factory for a half century,” Chang said.

After decades of flourishing with just noodles and wrappers, the company expanded its product line to traditional items of dim sum including manapua, pork hash, half moon and pepieao. Today, Chun Wah Kam makes 16 different kinds of manapua, by far the

“We were very fortunate to have him. He knew how to make everything.”

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Noodles have been a staple food in many parts of the world for at least 2,000 years.

Rising costs of ingredients—especially eggs—has forced the company to make some product changes but also because the public’s taste for noodles has changed over the years. Another change was switching from the traditional Chinese-style noodle making machines to the faster Japanese machines, which are capable of producing noodles that hold up better in soups. With the new Japanese noodle making machines “we have noticed an increase in sales and it’s a lot easier for us to make product,” Chang said. Wrappers manufactured here include Won Ton Skin, Kau Gee Skin and Mandoo. Noodles include saimin, curly saimin, udon, chow mein, chow fun, look fun and E-Mein, which is an egg noodle. So who created the first noodle? The Chinese, Arabs and Italians have all lain claim but the earliest record appears in a book written between AD 25 and 220 in China. Noodles have been a staple food in many parts of the world for at least 2,000 years, but in 2005 the oldest noodles ever found were discovered inside an overturned sealed bowl buried under nearly 10 feet of sediment in Qinghai, northwest China. Scientists determined the 4,000-year-old, long, thin yellow noodles were made from broomcorn millet and foxtail millet and showed a fairly high level of food processing and culinary sophistication. No matter where a specific noodle originated, they have maintained their popularity over the centuries for being relatively cheap yet nutritious and filling, quick to prepare, can be eaten hot or cold, can be stored for years and be transported easily. The traditional Japanese diet included huge amounts of rice, but noodles have become an essential part of Japanese cuisine.

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Soba, thin brown noodles made from buckwheat, and udon, thick wheat noodles, are the traditional noodles, served hot or cold with soy-dashi flavorings. Another popular Chinese wheat noodle, ramen, is served hot in a meat-stock broth. Noodles often take the place of rice in a meal but as the Japanese appetite for rice is so strong, some restaurants serve noodle-rice combination meals. Traditional Japanese noodles are often served chilled, especially in summer, with a dipping sauce of wasabi, scallions and grated ginger, or hot in stir-fries, salads or in a soy-dashi broth with toppings chosen to reflect the seasons and balance other ingredients. Common toppings include tempura, often shrimp, aura-age (seasoned deep-fried tofu), kamaboko (fish cake) with shichimi (spice mix) and beni shoga (red pickled ginger) added to taste. Japanese noodles, menrui dishes, come in a great variety of shapes and sizes. There are various traditional, highly popular Japanese and introduced “Japanized” noodle dishes in Japan but primarily there are four types readily available in supermarkets, health food shops Asian stores. A few blocks from the Chun Wah Kam Noodle Factory on truckclogged Colburn Street at the Sun Noodle Brand factory, founder and president Hidehito Uki is in the gleaming and well-lit manufacturing room sweeping the floor and chatting with employees. The soft-spoken and unassuming executive came to Hawaiì from Japan in 1982 to open Sun Noodle Brand after learning the process from his banker father. “In Japan we say that ‘10 years make an epoch,’ but 30 years have already passed since I started Sun Noodle in Hawaiì,” he says, laughing. The company is reportedly the largest noodle manufacturer in Hawaiì. “I think I’ve been able to reach this point because, while totally absorbed in my work each day, I’ve been guided by the desire to provide everyone in Hawaiì with the authentic taste of Japanese noodles,” Uki said. “My belief that noodles will be accepted anywhere in the world as long as they’re delicious has not been mistaken.” Sun Noodle’s goal remains to provide the authentic taste of Japanese noodles in Hawaiì. That’s not so easy to accomplish here, Uki said.

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“Hawai`i’s climate, the wheat and the water are all different than in Japan,” he said. “So if you make noodles in the same way as in Japan, you can’t reproduce the same taste as in Japan. Even if you manage to reproduce the same taste, it’s meaningless if you can’t also manufacture noodles at the kind of affordable price desired. These last 30 years have truly been days of research and improvement.”

From the company’s approximately 100 types of products, Sun Noodle produces daily about 50,000 servings that requires 200, 50pound bags of flour.

When the company opened in 1982 Sun Noodles’ gross revenue was just $8,000. In 2011 it was $10 million from sales at the Kalihi factory and a recently opened factory in Southern California. A New Jersey Sun Noodle factory will open this year.

(Factoid: The yellow color in ramen noodles is not from eggs. It’s what happens when the wheat hits mineral salts, originally from well water, now from 25-pound bags of white powder.)

The company makes 30 different kinds of ramen noodles, all from basically the same ingredients—flour, water, salt and potassium carbonate.

The Honolulu factory began with just three employees and now has 55, many of whom have worked for the company for more than 20 years.

Even saimin noodles are made from the same ingredients. But Uki says for saimin you need an old-fashioned wheat flour with a higher ash count. For udon, Australian wheat is good; but for ramen noodles, you need high-protein wheat from Canada.

Sun Noodle’s products range from ramen for ramen shops to saimin for local restaurants; from cold Chinese noodles for in-flight meals to yakisoba that you can prepare at home.

One reason for the company’s popularity is Uki’s decision to custom manufacture noodles specifically to the client’s needs.

“We have become able to manufacture noodles and dumpling skins that meet the various needs and expectations of our Hawaiian customers,” Uki said.

“We care very much about the noodle’s texture and its holding time in not absorbing the soup so fast,” he said. A noodle should not absorb soup quickly. “Too-quick absorption and it gets soggy and loses texture,” he said. “We choose the right type of flour, mixing process, and control the temperature carefully to slow the absorption time. If the soup is a light shoyu soup base he must make a noodle that has the gravity to absorb the soup, he said. “If you are designing a noodle for a heavy soup like a little oily thick miso you make a totally different noodle that doesn’t absorb quickly.” Since every restaurant customer makes different types of soups, Sun Noodle strives to design the best noodle for that soup. “When the noodle and the soup have the best harmony you can enjoy the taste of the noodle and the soup together,” Uki said. “This customization has made the relationship between Sun Noodle and the customer stronger.” Uki makes several test noodle batches a day which he eats until he gets the right noodle for the shop’s ramen broth. “It’s not science, it’s art,” he said. “If I like it, people like it, and they think it’s good product.”

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In a Pickle Ancient food-saving method thrives in modern world BY KEN LOVE

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ven before the advent of agriculture 12,000 years ago, early humans needed ways to preserve foods before moving on to better grounds. Over time, as drying and freezing evolved, food preservation enabled our ancestors to stay in one location and agriculture evolved. The need to save food for future use is still with us. Each culture has developed its own recipes and systems for preservation, dependent on their location. They dried foods in the tropics and froze meats in the arctic. Fermented wines have been found in the Caucasus and Iran that are almost 8,000 years old. Other preservation methods go back to 2400 BC Mesopotamia, where archeological evidence of pickling has been found. India’s records document a similarly long history. The Sanskrit word for chutney is catni, meaning a strong sweet relish. Being the original home of the cucumber, India’s early pickles included a number of cucumber recipes. Around 2030 BC, cucumbers were moved into the Tigris Valley and the reputation of cucumber pickles was further enhanced. Although Chinese records go back more than 3,000 years, it wasn’t until the mid 600s AD that pickled vegetables and fruits moved to Japan with early Buddhist missionaries and traders. Many of these pickled foods were medicinal. In the mid 700s, a Chinese medical textbook was translated into Japanese. Called the Honzo-Wamyo, it told how to use umeboshi (pickled plum) and loquat leaves as medicine. The umeboshi was later a staple of ronin, wandering samurai. Fast forward to the late 1700s when Napoleon, a pickle lover, offered what would now be $250,000 to anyone who could develop a safe way to preserve foods

for his armies. In 1809 Nicholas Appert discovered that if you removed air from a bottle, the food would not spoil. He used corks to seal the jars before they were boiled. His discovery is, perhaps, one of the most important in culinary history. Thomas Jefferson, another spiced pickle lover, kept his stash “…below the stairs in aunt sally’s cellar.” In 1858 a heavier-than-normal glass jar was developed by John Mason. This enabled higher-temperature processing for pickles. When his patent expired in 1879 a number of companies started to manufacture the “Mason jar.” It wasn’t until 1881 that metal tops came on the scene. In 1893 at the Chicago World’s Fair a newly formed company called Heinz introduced its “57 Varieties” of pickles and food in jars.

Coming Soon to a Vegetable Near You On the US mainland most land grant universities have the Master Food Preserver program. I recently went through training offered by the cooperative extension program of the University of California at Davis. This will enable me to bring the Master Food Preserver’s program (MFP) to Hawai`i. I expect to begin training trainers on each island in late 2012 or early 2013 when funding can be secured. Similar to the Master Gardener’s Program, MFP will be offered in stages as a certificate class in food preservation. I’ve tentatively planned eight classes:

Introduction, Food Safety and Knife Skills In any kitchen environment, food safety is essential. Modern preservation techniques evolved in order to insure safe-to-eat foods. Learning the basics enables you to know why preservation follows certain precepts

and answers questions like why you don’t see papaya jelly at the market. Knife skills are something that all of us need to learn and practice. When you preserve you do a lot of chopping and cutting, so it is good to be prepared.

Fermentation & Pickling Making your own kim chee, dill pickles and sauerkraut is a real treat. Once you taste what you’ve made it’s going to be hard to enjoy store-bought! Not only freshness, but also the lack of chemicals and that telltale metallic taste mean that homemade fermented pickles are incredibly good. Advanced fermentation includes carbonated drinks, beer, wine and miso. Every area of the globe has some sort of pickled something or other. Our pickled mango in Hawai`i or India or umeboshi in Japan are, in every way, as integrated into modern society as the dill pickles our grandmothers and aunts may have made. I tend to pickle every vegetable with Japanese, Indian or classic early-American spicing. One never really runs out of ideas for new things to try. One could easily stay busy pickling with different recipes for at least 300 years.

High-Acid Canning Covers a variety of acid fruits in addition to many tomatoes. Anything with a pH below 4.6 is ready for a hot water or steam bath. Many jellies can fall into this category too.

Low-Acid Pressure Canning My earliest recollection of canning was watching my Aunt Lucille jar up her blueberry pie filling (still the best in the world!) back in the early ‘50s. These days folks seem a little intimidated by high-pressure canners with their clamps and dial gauge and steam vents. In 1950 50% of the population

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Textbooks

farmed; now it’s less than 1%. I think this made a difference in how many people preserved their crops. With the modern farmers’ markets in urban areas pressure canning is enjoy resurgence in popularity. Last week I bought all the wax beans and baby zucchini available at my neighbor stalls at our Keauhou Kona Saturday farmers’ market. Sunday I canned! Hope they have more Kau rhubarb next week!

So Easy to Preserve by the Cooperative Extension Service University of Georgia Ball Blue Book guide to preserving Farm Journal’s Freezing and Canning Cookbook We all have some memories of food preservation, be it Grandma’s canned fruit or a kosher dill at an exceptionally good restaurant. Learning food preservation is an essential art. It covers three areas of concern:

Jams, Jellies, Preserves, Conserves and Syrups My wife and I have produced over 150 different jarred products with the vast majority being some sort of exotic tropical-fruit-based jam, jelly, marmalade conserve, preserve, syrup or a mixed aigredoux concoction. Aigre-doux is a sweet and sour mix of fruit, often with sugar and vinegar together. Jam is chopped or crushed fruit with sugar; jelly is made from a clear fruit juice, while marmalade is from the juice with added zest, skin and/or small pieces of fruit. Conserve is like jam but with nuts and or raisins and often with two or more fruits together. Preserves are usually whole fruit or large pieces preserved with sugar to retain size and shape.

One of the oldest forms of preservation in northern areas, today’s freezing methods involve multiple choices of containers and wraps compared to grandmother’s freezer paper. Vacuum-sealing machines for the home or the high-end sous-vide process ensures a safe product and safe cooking process.

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Value-Added Product Development and Basic Marketing Designed for small growers and producers, this class would help them to develop and sell locally grown products.

Final Exam (oral and written) and Graduation!

Freezing and Vacuum Sealing

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In order to become a Master Food Preserver you must pass two tests, oral and written. The oral exam is to teach a class and prepare a preserved product for the instructors or judges. The written exam is open book and covers all the preserving processes covered in the eight classes. There are about 70 questions.

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Food safety, as learning canning and preserving teaches how to prevent diseases and toxins from infecting our foods. Food security, as it enables us to have foods in reserve in times of crisis. This is extremely important considering that Hawai`i only has three to five days of food in reserve for the entire population. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, food preservation builds on small farm sustainability. If you’re a grower you can produce safe value-added products to offer at farmers’ markets or online. If you simply want to can at home, then it is always best to use fresh locally grown produce for your canning. Canning brings to life an adventure and story with each jar you open.

You can read more about Ken Love in the Recipe Wave piece on page 47 as well as find contact information.

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Cooking Fresh

Contributing chefs Ron Miller, Viren Olson, Bobby Krause Hukilau Lanai, Kapa`a, Kaua`i 520 Aleka Loop, 808-822-3441 www.hukilaukauai.com

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This summer menu is inspired by our collaborative kitchen and is focused on our fresh fish, local food artisans and fantastic island produce. Bobby’s Pineapple Gazpacho is always a summer favorite at the restaurant, and Viren’s Pineapple-Basil Sorbet fancies it up to kick off the warm evening. Ron is all about the sausage making, and the Warabi Salad is a unique way of serving the traditional sausage of the Philippines. Our local fresh fish is always the highlight of our restaurant menu, and we lightened up the dishes in the warmer months with the fresh Quinoa Pilaf and Preserved Lemon Kale. Local Honey from McPhee’s Bees inspired Viren to create this ultra-silky Honey Gelato that makes us wish summer was here all year long!

Pineapple Gazpacho

Pineapple-Basil Sorbet

4 ounces pineapple juice

1 large pineapple

4 ounces Bloody Mary mix

3 cups sugar

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 cups water

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh basil, finely chopped

8 ounces diced Kaua`i Fresh tomatoes

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 diced cucumber, ½ seeded and peeled, ½ with skin

1 pinch salt

½ red onion, diced (4 ounces) ½ stalk celery, diced (3 ounces) 1 carrot, diced (6 ounces) ½ green bell pepper, diced ½ pineapple, peeled and cored and diced 2 tablespoons fresh basil leaves

Peel pineapple and roughly chop. Purée with sugar in a food processor. Push mixture through a strainer, reserving the liquid and discarding the solids. Stir in water, lemon juice, basil and salt. Chill thoroughly. Freeze in ice cream maker.

1½ teaspoons paprika ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon white pepper ½ teaspoon fresh garlic, chopped ½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Photo by Keri Cooper

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Blend in small batches in a blender, then recombine and stir—or use a hand blender to blend entire batch. Chill overnight. Serve topped with pineapple-basil sorbet.

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Quinoa Pilaf

Kale with Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette

1 cup quinoa 1¾ cups vegetable stock ½ cup diced onion ½ cup diced red pepper ¼ cup diced celery ¼ cup diced carrot 1 cup fresh corn 1 cup diced tomato (about 2 medium tomatoes) ½ tablespoon olive oil ¼ teaspoon black pepper ¼ tablespoon chopped garlic ¼ tablespoon coriander ¼ teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon lime juice, fresh squeezed 1 tablespoon fresh basil 1 tablespoon fresh parsley

½ pound kale: remove stems, wash, spin dry, tear into bite-size pieces, set aside

Heat a large saucepot over medium heat, then add olive oil, all the diced vegetables, spices, garlic and salt. Sauté over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Add the stock and bring to boil. Stir in the quinoa and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook covered for 15–20 minutes. (All the liquid should be evaporated.) Allow to rest 10 minutes. Add lime juice, balsamic vinegar, basil and parsley. Fluff to serve.

1 tablespoon fresh chopped ginger 1 tablespoon fresh chopped shallot ½ cup preserved lemons (see recipe below) 4½ teaspoons fresh chives 1 tablespoon fresh parsley ½ teaspoon cumin ¾ cup balsamic vinegar 1½ cups olive oil 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

In a food processor, combine all ingredients except balsamic vinegar, olive oil and kale. With food processor running, alternate adding olive oil and balsamic, ⅓ of each at a time, starting with the olive oil. Note: There is no salt in this recipe, due to the salt already present in the preserved lemons (recipe below). Toss kale with about 3 ounces of dressing and serve on top of grilled fresh local fish and Quinoa Pilaf. Reserve remaining dressing for another use. Preserved Lemons: Slice whole lemons ¼ inch thick and liberally coat with Hawaiian salt. Place in a pint-size glass jar and press down slightly. Cover lemons with fresh-squeezed lemon juice. Fill jar the rest of the way with olive oil, making sure the lemons are completely covered. Allow to sit one month in the fridge before using.

Photo by Keri Cooper

Serve with fresh local fish topped with Kale with Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon fresh chopped garlic

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Photo by Keri Cooper

Warabi Salad

Longanisa

1 pound warabi (local fiddlehead ferns) 4 ounces red onion, thin julienne 1 ounce green onion, chopped ½ red bell pepper, thin julienne 1 ounce minced ginger 1 cup shoyu ¼ cup sesame oil ¼ cup rice vinegar 1 tablespoon chile pepper water 2 teaspoons black sesame seeds 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce 1 dozen Kaua`i Fresh cherry tomato, halved

¼ cup sugar 1 tablespoon oregano 1 tablespoon ginger, powdered 2 teaspoons black pepper 3 tablespoons salt 1 tablespoon Morton’s Tender Quick Mix, optional 2 tablespoons fresh minced garlic 5 pounds Kaneshiro Farm pork butt 2 tablespoons chili pepper water 2 tablespoons cold water 2 teaspoons annatto, ground 2 teaspoons chipotle 1 tablespoon paprika

Cut warabi on a thin bias and mix with 1 tablespoon of salt. Pour 3 cups of very hot but not boiling water over warabi. Cover and let steep for 5 minutes. Drain warabi and rinse with cold water. Combine drained warabi with remaining ingredients and toss well. Serve with longanisa sausage.

Note: Keeping the sausage mixture cold until you are ready to cook it is an extremely important factor in successful sausage making. Chill a stand mixer mixing bowl. Hand-cut pork into large chunks. Place cut pork into freezer until firm but not frozen through. Grind pork through large die of a meat grinder. Keep pork cold (this is very important). Place ground meat with spices into chilled mixing bowl. Mix on speed 1 for 1 minute. While still mixing, slowly add vinegar and water. Can mix by hand if a mixer is not available. Cook a small portion of the mixture and taste for appropriate seasoning. At this point the sausage can be stuffed into a casing, made into patties or shaped into a log. Cure 3 days in a refrigerator before using. You can smoke, bake, grill or poach the sausage. Most importantly, cook the sausage to 150°.

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McPhee’s Bees Honey Gelato 2¼ cups heavy cream 2¼ cups whole milk ½ cup sugar ¾ cup McPhee’s Bees Honey 6 tablespoons cornstarch 10 egg yolks 2 tablespoons rum

Whisk together yolks, sugar and cornstarch. Heat milk, honey and vanilla bean until simmering. Temper hot milk into yolk mixture. Return to pan and heat, stirring constantly, until thickened. (It will be very thick.) Remove from heat, strain into bowl and whisk in heavy cream. Stir in the rum. Chill overnight and freeze in an ice cream maker.

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Photo by Keri Cooper

½ vanilla bean

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Recao Reclaiming the little plant that could BY SOPHIA SCHWEITZER

ast December, in the courtyard of a plantation building in North Kohala dating back to 1899, I received a box of delicate mochi, full of subtle flavors. A piece of mochi infused with green tea begged to be sampled. But just then its generous donor, Tim Young, thought of another green food, a bolder, brighter thing. “You have to see it: It isn’t like anything we know,” he said. “We have been growing it in an old house gutter in our yard. Some call it Puerto Rican parsley, we heard.” Young was referring to Eryngium foetidum, a member of the parsley family. And the setting in which he introduced me to the plant was perfect: Eryngium foetidum traces its arrival in Hawai`i back to sugar days, when Asian immigrant workers brought with them their culinary specialties and flavorings: Mochi. Green tea. Herbs.

A descendant of sugar immigrants himself, Young works in the local financial industry, but he has long been fascinated by Hawai`i’s cultural foods. “We got our plant at the Saturday Farmers’ Market downtown,” he said. “The lady’s always there. A friend of ours grows lots of it, in pots.” Turns out, this spiny, somewhat unwieldy herb also shows up in Chinatown in Honolulu, and in plant racks in front of Hawai`i’s small-town hardware stores. Once you look for it, you can’t miss it. Its serrated, elongated and seemingly tough leaves arrange themselves in a rosette around a short, thick stem. Its tall flower stalk crowns into a feathery umbrella of tiny inconspicuous white-green flowers. Farmers may call it recao, or fit weed, ngò gai, or saw-tooth coriander. Or they may just shrug at your ignorance.

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In flavor, kinship, spelling and application eerily identical to cilantro, somewhere in its global travels the plant also acquired the name culantro. “You would be surprised how many of us still grow it,” says Florence Santiago, who was born in Lā`ie, O`ahu, to immigrant parents of Puerto Rican and Spanish descent. “It’s so useful. You can add the leaves to stews and soups, anything.” Commonly used throughout the West Indies, Latin and Central America, West Africa and many Asian countries, recao remains an unsung culinary hero for Westerners. Chances are, though, you have savored it. When you ate pho in your favorite little Vietnamese holein-the-wall, for example: The scattered leafy flecks amid your mung bean sprouts, that sudden taste of pungent bitterness, sweet grass, summer days and a pleasantly fleeting sensation of crushed bugs. Used in small quantities, recao serves as an essential seasoning in numerous ethnic dishes, salsas and chutneys. In Puerto Rican cuisine the herb is indispensable. Chalk it up to sofrito, an all-purpose sauce that elevates any great Puerto Rican meal. Traditionally it consists of garlic, onions, green peppers, perhaps tomatoes and, yes, lots of culantro, simmered in achiote (annatto) oil. “I first learned to make sofrito when I was about 13,” says Santiago. “Later, I added my own techniques and ingredients. From generation to generation, you learn, and then you master your own recipe.” Nutritionally, recao is said to be rich in calcium, iron, carotene and riboflavin. Santiago and other cooks usually only use the leaves. Medicinally, the plant has also long served as an ethnobotanical antiinflammatory and analgesic. So much so that a study of the leaves was done in 2010 in Trinidad and Tobago: Phytochemicals were found that may one day lead to invaluable new modern medicine. That same year, the Herb Society of America proudly recognized Eryngium foetidum as the country’s “Promising Plant of the Year.” So reclaim a spot for recao. When a recipe asks for cilantro, try recao instead. Use tender leaves, and chop them fine. The sharp, serrated edges soften as soon as the leaves have a chance to wilt. “Try it out,” Santiago says. “Sprinkle a spoonful of finely chopped leaves in an omelet, to begin. It’s great!”

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Sofrito Sofrito knows as many variations as there are Puerto Rican families. And each recipe is secret. You can make a basic sofrito either by blending the key ingredients, then using the sauce uncooked, or by simmering the ingredients, chopped. The following recipe is intended only to get your own creative juices flowing.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and chopped ½ red bell pepper, seeded and chopped ½ yellow bell pepper, seeded and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ cup culantro leaves, chopped

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add peppers, onion and garlic. Simmer until they soften. Add the salt, pepper and cumin, and stir to mix well. Stir and cook another 10 minutes to blend the flavors. Add culantro. Stir. Allow it to fully wilt, about 1 minute. Turn off heat. Allow to cool. Store in an airtight glass container. It’ll keep for several days. It also freezes well for up to 2 months.

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Hawaiian shave Ice —a History — There is no ‘D’ in ‘shave ice,’ and it’s not a snow cone BY G. NATALE

Matsumoto’s Shave Ice, a Haleiwa tradition since 1951. Photo by Tor Johnson/PhotoResourceHawaii.com

have ice traces its history to Japan, where it is known as kakigōri and dates back to the Heian Period (794–1185 AD). Shave ice was brought by Japanese immigrants who came to the Hawaiian islands to work on the sugar plantations in the late 1800s. They brought their traditional dessert with them, creating shave ice from large blocks of ice and using Japanese swords or machetes. Hawaiian shave ice is an ice-based dessert made by shaving a block of ice. While the product can resemble a snow cone, snow cones are made with crushed, rather than shaved, ice. Shaving the block of ice produces a very fine ice that is fluffy and appears snow-like. This extremely fine texture causes added syrups to be absorbed by the ice rather than simply surrounding it. A properly made Hawaiian shave ice rarely requires a straw, since the

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flavors are in the ice and not at the bottom of the cup. Although the traditional American flavors are common, shave ice in Hawai`i is often flavored with local ingredients such as guava, pineapple, coconut cream, passion fruit, li hing mui, lychee, kiwi fruit or mango. Hawaiian shave ice is traditionally served in a conical paper or plastic cup with multiple flavors and with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and/or azuki bean paste at the bottom of the cup. Sweetened condensed milk drizzled over the top is sometimes called a “snow cap.” You can find shave ice stands all throughout the islands, and even in some local grocery stores. There are so many we couldn’t list them for you, so we are asking that you email us and tell us where your favorites are, and also tell us your favorite flavors.

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recipe

wave

Fostering Small-Farm Sustainability, Building New Markets BY THE EDITOR AT LARGE

Ken Love and Chef Miguel Magna

ead Chef Miguel Magna of Tahiti Nui Bar and Restaurant in Hanalei, Kaua`i, has created this recipe to help encourage us to try unusual and exotic fruits. For more information on Calamansi limes, see our last page “What Is It and How Do You Eat It”

I met Chef Miguel at a demonstration one Saturday morning at Harvest Market in Hanalei. These demonstrations are being scheduled on each island by Ken Love, president of Hawaiì Tropical Fruit Growers (HTFG), and funded by the Hawaiì Department of Agriculture through a USDA competitive grant program to foster small-farm sustainability. Ken was able to procure this grant, and the goal of this project is to introduce unusual tropical fruits that already grow in Hawaiì to that part of the population not familiar with them. Fruit such as bilimbi, jackfruit, Surinam cherry, abiu, jaboticaba and many others are grown in enough quantity that they could be sold at groceries and beyond the usual farmers’ markets and to aware chefs.

Chimichurri Calamansi Sauce ¼ cup juice from fresh Calamansi limes ½ cup flat-leaf parsley, minced ¼ cup cilantro, minced 1 tablespoon garlic, minced 1 teaspoon chili flakes 2 teaspoons lemon zest ¼ cup canola oil ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons shallots, minced 1 tablespoon kosher salt

Mix all ingredients together.

At each taste-test demo, a guest chef, project manager and local Hawai`i Tropical Fruit Grower members will be on hand to share their knowledge in using unusual fruit. The fruit will also be made available to the stores to sell on a continuous basis.

Originally from Argentina, this type of sauce is used over grilled meat, but can also be used over fish and vegetables.

Utilization of exotic tropical specialty fruits and their markets have dramatically increased in the past 10 years, according to the Hawai`i branch of the National Agriculture Statistic Service, almost doubling from 2006 to 2007—and we have come another long way since then. The unusual fruit covered in this project is expected to further increase these figures when the university releases new data. The project’s intention is to foster small-farm sustainability by increasing markets for some of the state’s more unusual fruit.

Chef Miguel spooned it over thinly sliced pork tenderloin with wasabi aioli crust, grilled Kauaì shrimp, and Alliì mushrooms from the Hamakua Coast on Hawaiì Island. I had to stop myself from eating all the samples.

For more information, contact Ken Love

Visit Chef Miguel at Tahiti Nui Bar and Restaurant, (called “the Nui” by locals) 5-5134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei, HI 96754; 808-826-6277

at ken@mycoffee.net or 808-969-7926 or htfg.org. WWW.EDIBLEALOHA.COM

SUMMER 2012

edible HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

LOCAL DINING GUIDE Restaurants are chosen for this dining guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus, creating a distinctly Hawaiian Islands Experience. — Let them know we sent you. Aloha!

O`ahu 12th Ave Grill An Award Winning Neighborhood Gem offering the Ripeness of the Season and the Best of Hawai`i’s farms and ranches. Wine list, unique microbrew beers and scratch bar cocktails are the perfect pairings for any palate. Warm service in a Bistro style complement this serious Contemporary American Cooking. Reservations 732.9469. www.12thavegrill.com. Follow us on Twitter @12thavenuegrillnow

EAT Honolulu Chef David Passanisi serves up Hawaiian Regional Cuisine in his own fantastic Rustic Gourmet way. Our unique private dining concept includes EAT-ATE-TAE, a 24 course Seasonal Deconstruction and EATnPrivate, which seats up to 14 people, available by reservations only. We incorporate as much locally made and produced items as possible and work with all styles of cuisines. www.EATHonolulu.com V Lounge keeps the craft of the pizzaiolo alive. We adhere to the principles of any great pizzaiolo; “Never take shortcuts and make the pizza the way that it is supposed to be made.” The final product is the same type of pizza and flavors that you would get in Naples. Open Mon-Sat, 5pm-4am. 808-953-0007 www.vloungehawaii.com

Maui Flatbread Company — Fresh, local, organic, salads, authentic wood-fire handmade, locally grown produce, micro beers, martini’s & mojito’s, open daily Sun-Thur 11:30-10PM FRI & SAT 11:3011PM (808)579-8989 Located at 89 Hana Hwy Paia www.flatbreadcompany.com - Like us on Facebook Ko Executive Chef Tylun Pang leads the culinary masterpiece of Kō restaurant, the only place on Maui to offer plantation inspired cuisine. As the sugar industry grew, so did its need for manpower, bringing people from around the world. Kō, which translates to “sugarcane” in Hawaiian, celebrates the many cultures of the era serving Hawaiian, Chinese, Filipino, Portuguese, Korean, and Japanese menu items with an innovative twist. 4100 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, Maui, HI 96753, 808875-2210, ko.kealani@fairmont.com, www.korestaurant.com

Lahaina Grill features innovative New American cuisine that uses the freshest ingredients from Maui’s local farms, dairies and surrounding waters. Voted “Best Maui Restaurant” for eighteen consecutive years by HONOLULU Magazine readers’ poll (1994-2011), Lahaina Grill delivers impeccable service and a delicious meal. Open nightly from 6pm, 127 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina, www.lahainagrill.com, reservations recommended (808) 6675117

Mala Ocean Tavern: Fantastic Ocean View. Chef Mark Ellman and his wife Judy, and daughters, Michelle & Ariana make Mala a family business. Farm fresh organic foods, Mark has been delighting Maui for 25+ years along with his other restaurants, Avalon, Maui Tacos, & Penne Pasta Cafe. Remember to Practice Aloha. 834 Front Street Lahaina (808) 667-9394 M-F 11am-10pm, Sat/Sun 9am-9pm Chef Mark Ellman presents Mala Wailea - offering stunning sunset vistas over the Pacific. Mala upholds a tradition of organic, healthy, fresh, and delicious food. Authentic menu of Mediterranean and Pacific Rim cuisine, award winning beautifully crafted dishes will please the palates of revered guests. Breakfast & Dinner (808) 875-9394 Located inside Wailea Beach Marriott Resort & Spa

Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop features casual family style dining in a comfortable plantation era atmosphere. Our glorified comfort food menu includes an assortment of handcrafted sandwiches, pizzas, and salads, daily specials and of course, sweet and savory pies. Located at 820 Olowalu Village Road off of Honoapiilani Hwy, Lahaina. Open 7 days a week from 10:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. Call us at (808) 662-3600 or visit us online at www.leodas.com. Porto Flame-Fired Artisan Pizza Overlooking Ma’alaea Harbor, Porto is a new restaurant offering tantalizing artisan pizzas, flame-fired to perfection in a copper-clad oven. Porto also serves panini with homemade focaccia, sandwiches, salads, pasta and other Italian specialties, featuring natural (and organic when available) produce, including fresh herbs, vegetables, meats and fruits from Hawai’i farms. All profits benefit Pacific Whale Foundation. Open lunch/dinner. Ma’alaea Harbor Shops (off H30, Honoapiilani Highway, next to Maui Ocean Center) 808 856-8337 www.portomaui.com

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SUMMER 2012

Star Noodle, an intimate restaurant blending many flavors across Asia. Specializing in a variety of house made noodles and inventive Asian share plates served in a contemporary stylish setting. Open 7 days a week for Lunch and Dinner at the top of Lahaina Business Park at 286 Kupuohi Street in Lahaina. (808)667-5400

Kaua`i Bar Acuda: Kaua`i’s coolest place to relax with friends and share a tapas menu filled with locally sourced ingredients. You know it’s going to be a fun evening as soon as you walk in the door. The atmosphere is welcoming. The bar area is cool, with a large-screen TV showing anything from Blue Planet series to old B&W movies. In Hanalei Town 808-826-7081

Makana Terrace Restaurant — Dining at the Makana Terrace Restaurant is a culinary journey that embraces island lifestyle and farm to table cuisine. Enjoy weekly culinary experiences such as the Mailani Dinner Show on Thursdays or an evening dedicated to Hawaiian seafood and vegetables with tropical marinades and exotic spices. Breakfast 6:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m., Dinner 5:30 p.m. – 9:30 p. m. Sunday Brunch 10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday evenings. For reservations contact The St. Regis Princeville Resort at 808826-9644 or www.stregisprinceville.com. Postcards Café’ — Casual/ Fine Dining in Hanalei We’re big on buying locally for our seafood and vegetarian restaurant. But we also grow our own organic fruits, vegetables and herbs, like garlic chives and basil. Our fresh, delectable dinners have made us one of Kaua`i’s top restaurants - for 15 years! Open nightly from 6:00. Entering Hanalei, we’re first on the left. Reservations for 4 or more: 826.1191.

The Hanalei Dolphin has greeted visitor and local alike as they enter the town of Hanalei. Both the restaurant and fishmarket are known for the freshest fish caught by local fisherman, produce grown by local farmers and a second-to-none ambiance; one can enjoy a peaceful riverside lunch on umbrella shaded tables, outstanding dinner fare in a nostalgic tropical setting or just hang out in the stylish, world class sushi lounge. 5-5015 Kuhio Hwy, at the entrance of Hanalei 808-826-6113 www.hanaleidolphin.com

The Garden at Common Ground on Kaua`i’s north shore, provides fresh, healthy and locally acquired organic and natural foods that are prepared daily into delicious meals with all recipes from scratch at a great value. The dining environment is quaint and beautiful providing views of the fields where the daily harvest comes from for your meals. Open for breakfast and lunch daily. Weekend brunch 4900 Kuawa Rd, Kilauea Hi 96754, 808-8281041 www.commongroundkauai.net

At Hukilau Lanai they love their local farmers & fishermen! The 10 year old business says they can’t imagine life without them. They always strive to use the finest ingredients & products from Kaua`i & the neighbor islands. Dinner Tuesday - Sunday, from 5-9 pm for casual, ocean view dining. 5 course tasting menu from 5-5:45 pm daily. 822-0600 www.hukilaukauai.com

Tidepools Open-air bungalows seemingly floating over tropical lagoons at the base of a waterfall provide Kauai’s most distinctive dining setting. With contemporary Hawaiian fare inspired by the rich traditions and natural ingredients of Hawaii, tantalizing selections pay homage to the classics while creating fresh new taste sensations. The exceptional service, atmosphere and delicacies will wow you. Located at the Grand Hyatt in Poipu. Call 808.240.6456 for reservations.

Kauaì Grill — A comfortable yet elegant hideaway—Kauaì Grill is the latest in creative dining experiences from Michelin awarded Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Featuring a selection of signature appetizers, side dishes and accompaniments from his portfolio of domestic and international restaurants. Kauaì Grill opened from 5:30 pm to 9:30 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday. For reservations contact The St. Regis Princeville Resort at 808826-9644 or www.stregisprinceville.com.

Living Foods Market and Café’ — The market’s cafe’-style restaurant offers a simple European-style menu; from poached eggs, grilled panini, pizzettas & crepes to Nicoise salads, and roasted chicken to enjoy on a 1,000+-sq ft open air deck. The cafe’ also roasts their own coffee on-site, with beans from each of the Hawaiian islands, and fresh fruit agua fresca throughout the day. Daily 8am to 8pm. In Kukui`ula Village 808-742-2323

Hawai`i Island Experience the charm of Old Hawai`i at Cafe Pesto, Hilo Bay or a wonderful alternative to the resorts at Kawaihae. A family restaurant with a reputation for fresh, creative, affordable cuisine featuring local seafood and beef, exotic pizzas, eclectic salads, Asian inspired pastas and risottos. Open daily from 11:00AM to 9:00PM. Ph: (808)8821071 in Kawaihae or (808) 969-6640 in Hilo. www.cafepesto.com

Advertising in this directory is by invitation. 50

SUMMER 2012

EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

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SUMMER 2012

Farmers’ Markets A local tip: Get there early!

Kaua`i Farmers’ Markets

Kinoòle Farmers’ Market Kinoòle Shopping Plaza • 1990 Kinoòle St., Hilo • 7 a.m.-noon

SATURDAY

Space Farmers’ Market Space Performing Arts Center • 12-247 West Pohakupele Loop Pahoa, HI 96778 • Sat. 8:00a.m. – 11:30 a.m.

Kaua`i Community Market At Kaua`i Community College • Front Parking Lot (across from Grove Farm) • 9:30 am – 1:pm Kekaha Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Elepaio Road, Kekaha • 9 a.m. Hanalei Saturday Market Hanalei • 10 a.m.–12:00 p.m.

MONDAY Koloa Ball Park (Knudsen) (Sunshine Markets) Maluhia Road, Koloa • Noon Kukui Grove Shopping Center Lihue • 3 p.m.

TUESDAY Kalaheo Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Papalina Road off Kaumualii, Kalaheo 3 p.m

North Kohala Across from Hawi Post Office, under banyan tree • 7 a.m.–noon Waimea Town Market At Parker School, 65-1224 Lindsey Road, Waimea/Kamuela HI 96743 Sat. 8:00 a.m. - 1:00 pm. Waimea Hawaiian Homestead Farmers’ Market Mamalahoa Hwy., 2 miles east of Waimea town 7:00 a.m. – 12:00 noon Honokaa Farmers’ Market Honokaa town near Honokaa Trading Co. • Hilo Farmers’ Market

SUNDAY

Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei Waipa, Hanalei • 2 p.m.

Pahoa Farmers’ Market Luquin’s/Akebono Theater parking lot • 8 a.m.–3 p.m.

WEDNESDAY

Makuu Farmers’ Market Keaau-Pahoa bypass road • 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

Kapaà New Town Park (Sunshine Markets) Kahau Road, Kapaà • 3 p.m. Kauaì Culinary Market 4:00pm – 6:00pm • Kukuiùla Village, Poìpu In Conjunction w/ Kauaì County Farm Bureau

THURSDAY Coconut Marketplace 4-484 Kuhio Hwy, Kapaa • 9:00 a.m. -12:00 p.m. Hanapepe Park (Sunshine Markets) Old Hanapepe Town • 3 p.m. Kilauea Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Keneke off Lighthouse Road, Kilauea • 4:30 p.m.

FRIDAY Vidinha Stadium (Sunshine Markets) Hoolako Road, Lihue • 3 p.m.

Hawai`i Island Farmers’ Markets SATURDAY Keauhou Farmers’ Market Keauhou Shopping Center, Keauhou • 8a.m. – 12 noon

Waikoloa Village Farmers’ Market Waikoloa Community Church across from Waikoloa Elementary School 7:30 a.m.–1 p.m.

SUMMER 2012

EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

Volcano Farmers’ Market Cooper Center, Wright Rd., Volcano • 6:30–9 a.m. South Kona Green Market At the Amy Greenwell, Ethnobotanical Garden Captain Cook • 9 a.m. – I pm

TUESDAYS AND FRIDAYS Kekela Farms Organic Farmers Mkt 64-604 Mana Road, Waimea, HI • 808-887-0023 Tues. & Fri. 2:00-5:00pm • 100% organic

WEDNESDAYS AND SATURDAYS Corner of Mamo and Kamehameha Ave. downtown Hilo • Saturdays, 8 a.m.–noon

WEDNESDAYS Naalehu Farmers’ Market Ace Hardware lawn • 10 a.m.–2 p.m. Waimea Mid-Week Farmer’s Market Anna Ranch • 12:30 P.M. – 5:30 p.m.

Oàhu Farmers’ Markets SATURDAYS Banyan Court Mall (People’s Open Market) 800 North King Street, Honolulu • 6:15–7:30 a.m. Kaumualii Street (People’s Open Market) at Kalihi Street, Honolulu • 8:15–9:30 a.m. Kalihi Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 1911 Kam IV Road, Honolulu • 10–10:45 a.m. Salt Lake Municipal Lot (People’s Open Market) 5337 Likini Street, Honolulu • 11:15a.m. –Noon Hawaiì Kai Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) 300 Keahole Street, Honolulu • 1–2 p.m. North Shore Country Market at Sunset Sunset Beach Elementary School, Haleiwa 8 a.m. –2 p.m. The Saturday Farmers’ Market at Kapiolani Community College Campus 4303 Diamond Head Road, Honolulu • 7:30–11 a.m. Waialua Farmers’ Market Waialua Sugar Mill • 8:30 a.m. –Noon Hawaiì Kai Town Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu • 7:30 a.m. –3 p.m. Waianae Framers’ Market Makaha Resort, 84-626 Makaha Valley Road, Waianae, 808-848-2074 1st and 3rd Sat of the month • 7:30 a.m. – 11 a.m.

SUNDAYS Hale`iwa Farmers’ Market The Heart of Hale`iwa • Traffic Signal @ Kamehameha Hwy. & Cane Haul Rd. Next to the North Shore Marketplace (free parking) • 9am.-1pm. Kapolei Community Park (People’s Open Market) 91-1049 Kamaaha Loop, Kapolei • 7–8:30 a.m. Royal Kunia Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) Kupuna Lp/Kupohi Street, Waipahu • 9:30–11 a.m. Waikele Community Park (People’s Open Market) Waipahu • 11:30 a.m. –12:30 p.m. The Mililani Sunday Farmers’ Market at Mililani High School 95-1200 Meheula Parkway, Mililani High School Parking Lot 8 a.m. –Noon Manoa Marketplace Honolulu • 7–11 a.m.

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SUMMER 2012

Waimanalo Beach Park (People’s Open Market 41-741 Kalanianaole Highway, Waimanalo • 7:15–8:15 a.m.

Waianae Framers’ Market Waianae High School, 85-251 Farrington Hwy • 8 a.m. – 11:30 a.m.

Kailua District Park (People’s Open Market) 21 South Kainalu Drive, Kailua • 9–10 a.m.

MONDAYS

Kaneohe District Park (People’s Open Market) 45-660 Keaahala Road, Kaneohe • 10:45–11:45 a.m.

Manoa Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2721 Kaaipu Avenue, Honolulu • 6:45–7:45 a.m. Makiki District Park (People’s Open Market) 1527 Keeaumoku Street, Honolulu • 8:30–9:30 a.m. Mother Waldron Park (People’s Open Market) 525 Coral Street, Honolulu • 10:15–11 a.m. City Hall Parking Lot Deck (People’s Open Market) Alapai & Beretania Street, Honolulu • 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m. Hawai`i Kai Town Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu • 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m.

TUESDAYS Waiau District Park (People’s Open Market) 98-1650 Kaahumanu Street, Pearl City • 6:30–7:30 a.m. Waipahu District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-230 Paiwa Street, Waipahu • 8:15–9:15 a.m. Wahiawa District Park (People’s Open Market) N. Cane & California Avenue, Wahiawa • 10–11 a.m. Mililani District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-1150 Lanikuhana Avenue, Mililani • 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m. Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (in front of Macy’s) • 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Manoa Marketplace Honolulu • 7–11 a.m. Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot • 7 a.m.–1 p.m.

WEDNESDAYS Palolo Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2007 Palolo Avenue, Honolulu • 6:30–7:30 a.m. . Old Stadium Park (People’s Open Market) 2237 South King Street, Honolulu • 8:15–9:15 a.m. Queen Kapiolani Park (People’s Open Market) Monsarrat and Paki Street, Honolulu • 10–11 a.m. Hawai`i Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu • 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Honolulu Farmers’ Market at Neal Blaisdell Center, Local Bounty • 808-848-2074 • 4:00-7:00 pm Waialua Farmers’ Co-Op At the Sugar Mill • 4:30 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.

THURSDAYS

Country Market & Craft Fair Waimanalo Homestead Community Center 1330 Kalanianaole Hwy. • 9 a.m.–4p.m.

SUMMER 2012

EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu • 7–11 a.m. The Kailua Thursday Night Farmers’ Market Kailua town • 5–7:30 p.m. behind Longs on Kailua Road

FRIDAYS Halawa District Park (People’s Open Market) 99-795 Iwaiwa Street • 7–8 a.m. Ewa Beach Community Park (People’s Open Market) 91-955 North Road, Ewa Beach • 9–10 a.m. Pokai Bay Beach Park (People’s Open Market) 85-037 Pokai Bay Road, Waianae • 11–11:45 a.m. Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (In front of Macy’s) • 8 a.m. –2 p.m. Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot • 7 a.m. –1 p.m.

Maui Farmers’ Markets SATURDAY Kula Country Farms Kula Hwy at Kekaulike Ave, Kula • 11 a.m. – 4 pm Maui Swap Meet University of Hawaii, Maui College, 310 Ka`aumanu Ave in Kahului 7:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Upcountry Farmer’s Market Kula Malu Shopping center 55 Kiopaa Street in Pukalani 7 a.m. – 12 Noon

Laniupoko Farmer’s Market Honoapiilani Hwy at Launiupoko Beach Park 8:00 am - 12:00 Noon Lipoa Street Farmers Market 95 Lipoa Street in Kihei • 8 a.m. – 12 Noon Hana Fresh Farmer’s Market 4590 Hana Hwy, in Hana • 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

SUNDAY Kula Country Farms Kula Hwy at Kekaulike Ave, Kula • 11 a.m. – 4 p.m. Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana • 9a.m. - 2p.m.

Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana • 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

MONDAY

THURSDAY

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei • 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai 3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) • 7a.m.–11 a.m.

Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana • 9a.m. - 5p.m.

Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana • 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

TUESDAY

FRIDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei • 8 a.m.–5 p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei • 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai 3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) • 7–11 a.m.

Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana • 9a.m. - 5p.m.

Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

Lana`i Farmers’ Market

WEDNESDAY

Lana`i Market Place Dole Park • 8 a.m.-1p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd, Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei • 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai 3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) • 7–11 a.m. Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana • 9a.m. - 5p.m.

SATURDAY

Moloka`i Farmers’ Market SATURDAY Ala Malama Street Kaunakakai • 7a.m.-1p.m.

Edible Hawaiian Islands Marketplace

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SUMMER 2012

Advertiser Directory This Directory is meant to help you quickly find our supporters listed by island, enjoy and let them know we sent you. Aloha

Kauaì Anahola Granola www.anaholagranola.com Aunty Lilikoi 9875 Waimea Rd., Waimea 866-545-4564 • www.auntylilikoi.com Bar Acuda Restaurant Reservations: 808-826-7081 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy Hanalei, Kauaì www.restaurantbaracuda.com Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa www.grandhayattkauai.com Hanalei Dolphin 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kauaì 808-826-6113 Harvest Market Hanalei 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kauaì 808-826-0089 Healthy Hut On the way to Kilauea Lighthouse 808-828-6626 • www.healthyhutkauai.com Hendrikus Organics 808-828-0099 • www.hendrikusorganics.com Hukilau Lanai Kauaì Coast Resort Reservations Recommended 808-822-0600 • www.hukilaukauai.com Java Kai Kapaa 4-1384 Kuhio Hwy 808-823-6887 • www.javakaihawaii.com Kauai Grown Kauai County Farm Bureau 808-337-9944 • kcfb@hawaiiantel.net www.kauaigrown.org

SUMMER 2012

Kilauea Fish Market 4270 Kilauea Rd., Kilauea, Kauaì 808-828-6244 Kilauea Town Market 2474 Keneke St., Kilauea, Kauaì 808-828-1512 Koloa Rum Company 808-246-8900 • www.koloarum.com Kukuiùla Village Kauaì Culinary Market Poìpu Roundabout at Kalanikaumaka 808-742-9545 • www.kukuiulavillage.com

Oàhu EATHonolulu Gentry Pacific Design Center (808) 538-0597 • www.EATHonolulu.com Farm Credit Services Of Hawaiì, ACA 2850 Paà St. Ste 100, Honolulu 808-836-8009 • www.hawaiifarmcredit.com Hagadone Printing Co. 274 Puuhale Road, Honolulu, HI 96819 808-847-5310 • www.hagadoneprinting.com

Living Foods Market Kukui`ula Village Po`ipu (on the south side) 808-742-2323 • www.livingfoodskauai.com

Kula Fields On O`ahu 808-281-6141 On Maui 808-280-6533 www.kulafields.com

Moloa`a Sunrise Fruit Stand Corner of Kuhio Hwy and Koolau Road * Phone orders welcome 808-822-1441

Whole Foods Market Kahala Mall in Honolulu, 4211 Wai`alae Ave www.wholefoodsmarket.com

Nani Moon Mead 4-939 D Kuhio Hwy 808-823-0486 • www.nanimoonmead.com Papaya’s Natural Foods & Café Kauaì Village Shopping Center In the courtyard by the waterfall, Kapaà, Kauaì 808-823-0190 • www.papayasnaturalfoods.com Postcards Café Hanalei • 808-826-1191 Salty Wahine Gourmet Hawaiian Sea Salts 808-346-2942 • info@saltywahine.com The Coconut Cup Juice Bar & Café At the Coral Reef Resort, Kapaà 808-823-8630 • www.coconutcupjuicebar.com The Wine Garden 4495 Puhi Road, Lihue 808-245-5766 • www.kauaiwinegarden.com

EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

Maui Alii Kula Lavender 1100 Waipoli Road, Kula 808-878-3004 • www.aklmaui.com Aloha Mixed Plate 1285 Front Street Lahaina (808) 661-3322 • www.alohamixedplate.com Chef Lulu Agan 808-633-6707 • www.luluscuisine.com Chef Dan Fiske Private chef serving all islands 808-280-1138 • www.privatemauichef.com Chef Jana McMahon 808-281-8393 • www.chefjana.com Cilantro Old Lahaina Center 808-667-5444 • www.cilantrogrill.com

da Local Banana 808-283-9646 • www.dalocalbanana.com David Paul’s Island Grill 900 Front St. Lahaina 808-662-3000 www.davidpaulsislandgrill.com Flatbread Pizza Company 89 Hana Hwy, Paia 808-579-8989 • www.flatbreadcompany.com Guava, Gouda & Caviar In the Wailea Gateway 808-874-3930 www.guavagoudaandcaviar.com Hawaiian Moons Natural Foods 2411 South Kihei Road 808-875-4356 • www.hawaiianmoons.com Joel Katz Hawaiian Steel Guitar (808) 280-0722 • www.joelkatzmaui.com KO The Fairmont Kea Lani 4100 Wailea Alanui 808-875-2210 • www.korestaurant.com Kula Country Farms Kula Highway across from Rice Park, Kula 808-878-8318

Mala Ocean Tavern & Honu Restaurant 1307 Front Street, Lahaina 808-667-9394 • www.malaoceantavern.com

Hawai`i Island

Maui & Co Real Estate 808-280-8898

Café Pesto Hilo Bay 808-969-6640 Kawaihae 808-882-1071 www.cafepesto.com

Maui Arts & Cultural Center Between Kahului Airport & `Iao Valley in Wailuku 808-242-SHOW www.mauiarts.org

Farm Credit Services of Hawai`i,ACA 988 Kinoole St., Hilo 808-836-8009 • www.hawaiifarmcredit.com

Maui County Farm Bureau www.mauicountyfarmbureau.com

Kona Coffee and Tea Toll Free 888-873-2035 In Kona 329-6577 www.konacoffeeandtea.com

Maui Gelato 2395 South Kihei Rd. #120 808-280-3198 • www.mauigelatocompany.com Maui Preserved 808-214-8780 • www.mauipreserved.com Ocean Vodka 250 Alamaha St, S9, Kahului 808-877-0009 • www.oceanvodka.com

Piliani Kope Farm 15 Wailau Place, Lahaina 808-661-5479

Kupa`a Farms Farms & CSA in Kula www.kupaafarms.org

Porto At Ma`alaea Harbor Springs 808-856-8337 • www.portomaui.com

Lahaina Grill 127 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina 808-667-5117 • www.lahainagrill.com

Star Noodle 808-667-5400 • www.starnoodle.com

Original Hawaiian Chocolate 808-322-2626 • 888-447-2626 (toll free) www.ohcf.us

Moloka`i Coffees of Hawai`i Order on website www.coffeesofhawaii.com

Old Lahaina Luau 1251 Front Street, Lahaina 808-667-1998 • www.oldlahainaluau.com

Kula Fields On Maui 808-280-2099 On O`ahu 808-280-6533 www.kulafields.com

Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop 820 Olowalu Village Road • 808-662-3600

Whole Foods Market Maui Mall, 70 East Ka’ahumanu Ave 808-872-3310 • www.wholefoodsmarket.com

Malama Farms Berkshire Hog Farm 808-633-3959 • www.malamafarm.com

National Slow Food Hawaiì Island Shelby Floyd • sfloyd@ahfi.com Slow Food Kauaì Shelby Floyd • sfloyd@ahfi.com Slow Food Maui info@slowfoodmaui.org www.slowfoodmaui.org Slow Food Oàhu Laurie Carlson • laurie@honoluluweekly.com

Surfing Goat Dairy 3651 Omaopio Rd., Kula 808-878-2870 • www.surfinggoatdairy.com

Slow Food Nation www.slowfoodnation.org

WWW.EDIBLEALOHA.COM

SUMMER 2012

What Is It and How Do You Eat It

Calamansi 58

SUMMER 2012

EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

Calamansiâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Citrofortunella microcarpa: Native to the Philippine Islands, though believed to have originated from China, it is sometimes called golden lime. It looks like a miniature orange, but is actually sour like a lime. It can be used in place of lime or vinegar, in drinks or in dressings. Calamansi comes and goes a few times a year; lower elevation trees here can produce almost year around. See page 47 for a fantastic Chimichurri Calamansi Sauce recipe.