Trend Map: Sports Luxe by gyasein

SPORTS LUXE

(Gloria Yasein) N0753203

2738 words

Ethical Clause â&#x20AC;&#x153;I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project.â&#x20AC;? Date___________ Signed_________

introduction

nottingham

THE

“methodology: p.4” “the fashion system: p.6” “a trend: p.8” “trend forecasting: p.9” “fast fashion: p.11”

“shop safari: p.41” “street/store interviews: p.43” “case study: can sustainability make sports luxe cool?: p.46”

conclusion

“what is next?: p.70”

ONTENT

trend analysis

“s/s 18 trend alert: sports luxe: p.15” “trend evolution: p.17” “trend drivers: p.19” “what is new?: p.25” “key items: p.30” “online safari: p.37”

editorial

“mood board: p.49” “pen potrait: p.51” “methodology: p.52” “editorial piece: p.59”

supporting material

“consent forms: p.73” “appendices: p.77” “references: p.86” “bibliography: p.89” “image references: p.95”

GUCCI S/S 18

0I: introduction

Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology. Methodology.

-4-

1. Online Survey An online survey was created using Survey Monkey, and then shared on social media, with the aim of exploring consumer perception of sportswear, establishing its relevance in the fashion industry and considering the role celebrities have in boosting its appeal. However, it was soon discovered that this survey was not particularly useful, as discovering perceptions of sportswear worn for athletics was not relevant to sports luxe. 2. Store Visits and Store/Street Interviews To investigate the impact of sports luxe in Nottingham, highstreet stores such as Topshop and Primark were visited, where sports luxe items identified on the runway were spotted, and several store interviews were carried out with supervisors and employees, who know first-hand how successful the trend is in Nottingham. Additionally, to gain further insight into how sports luxe was worn by people in Nottingham, street interviews were conducted with people photographed wearing the trend. 3. Market Research Companies such as Mintel and Euro monitor International were used to investigate the current key drivers of the industry, as well as its future prospects. 4. Trend Forecasting Sites such as WGSN and PSFK, were utilised to gain a deep understanding of the trendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s origins, drivers, appearances and current and future outlook in the fashion industry. 5. Online Magazines such as Vogue and Drapers, were read to discover how the trend was styled and being conveyed to the public. 6. Academic Books and Documentaries were studied to gain a broad understanding of the fashion system (e.g. fashion theories).

intro.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fashion is a reflection of our times and of the prevailing ideas in our society.â&#x20AC;? - Eundeok, 2011, p.60

intro.

-6-

This report will carefully analyse the sports luxe trend, by exploring the key influences and drivers shaping the trend, the runway and high-street interpretations of it, the vital role celebrities play in selling this look, and lastly, its current and future outlook in a fashion industry that is moving towards a sustainable future. The fashion industry is constantly evolving. Its unapologetic stance towards innovation means that new styles are continually being introduced to the market, gain popularity with consumers, reach the stages of maturity and eventually go out of fashion (Eundeok, 2011). However, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;trends [virtually] shape the fashion industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (BOF, 2017), and therefore have the potential to disrupt the course of this fashion cycle.

fashion system

A Fashion Cycle

ACCEPTANCE (measured in sales volume)

Peak Rise (increase in sales)

Decline (decrease in sales)

Introduction

Rejection Introductory phase

intro.

Acceptance phase

Rejection phase

intro.

(TIME)

intro.

-8‘Ideas from street fashion and cultural subgroups gain momentum to become a trend that bubbles up through the hierarchy of fashion, eventually reaching the top when expensive designer versions are created.’ (Posner, 2011, p.13)

Haute Couture

High-end fashion

(luxury designer/premium brands)

a trend.

Middle market

(affordable luxury retail brands)

Mass market

Defining trends is not a simple task, as ‘trends are in essence very complex mechanisms’ (Zegheanu, 2017), that mirror changes in social, cultural, economic and technological factors within society.

(high street multiple retailers)

Value market

(value/discount retailers)

Trickle up theory

Haute Couture High-end fashion

(luxury designer/premium brands)

Middle market

(affordable luxury retail brands)

Mass market

(high street multiple retailers)

Value market

(value/discount retailers)

Trickle down theory

Haute Couture High-end fashion

(luxury designer/premium brands)

Middle market

(affordable luxury retail brands)

Mass market

(high street multiple retailers)

Value market

(value/discount retailers)

Trickle across theory

‘Ideas from couture and designer cat walk shows filter down through the fashion market and are used as inspiration for ranges created by high-street retailers.’ (Posner, 2011, p.13)

Fashion trends are therefore often influenced by major social events. For example, at the end of World War II, Christian Dior’s ‘billowy-skirted, hourglassshaped dresses’ (Eundeok, 2011, p.5), reflected the need to return to traditional gender roles. Additionally, history milestones (e.g. woman given the right to vote), subcultural impacts (e.g. rise of hip hop culture), and economic impacts (e.g. UK recession) also play a major role in determining lifestyle trends, that in turn translate into fashion trends. Furthermore, popular culture also has a tremendous influence on trends. Although print media does not influence trends as much as it did, fashion bibles such as Vogue still impact consumer tastes tremendously by simplifying what is currently going on in fashion. Similarly, music, movies and television have been responsible for some of the ‘most iconic fashion moments in history.’ (Brannon, 2015, p.125) For example, hip-hop culture inspired and continues to inspire streetwear style. From Chanel’s 1920 iconic suit to the “Lady Di” look, designers and celebrities alike have also influenced fashion for years. Nonetheless, the rise of social media has intensified their influence, as in today’s media saturated culture, social media and innovative technology have given trends an ‘instantaneous reach.’ (Brannon, 2015, p.130) Traditionally, trends originated from a specific social group, trickling up from the streets or trickling down from designers, or trickling across all social groups simultaneously (Eundeok, 2011). However, democratised fashion and online media has meant that consumers globally inspire and share fashion trends. Hence, this changing flow of fashion information has given non-professionals a voice in a once exclusive industry (Jones and Holland, 2017).

“More than ever, retailers need to have a 360-degree view to survive in the market.” - Fowler, (see Jones and Holland, 2017, p.106)

trend forecasting. Evidently, ‘the alarmingly fast pace of the industry is continually shaking up the fashion system.’ (BOF, 2017) Hence, trend forecasting has become of crucial importance to the industry, as anticipating future trends and their longevity enables fashion brands and retailers to develop products that appeal to their target customers. However, trends evolve at different paces, to become either classics, seasonal trends or simply fads. As noted by Jones and Holland (2017, p.53), ‘a trend can succeed because it is new and interesting, but it only gains longevity if it offers deeper meaning and usefulness to people’s lives.’ For example, the recent craze for trainers paired with almost every outfit, is linked to the continuing desire for functionality and fashion.

s Fa

Classic

Fad

Frequency of adopters

Fashion Trends

Trend forecasters must therefore become ‘intimate with what’s going on in fashion’ (Jatyri, see McKelvey and Munslow, 2008, p.76), constantly watching how the zeitgeist is changing and what effect it might have on their consumer, and the kind of products they will want to purchase in the future (Jones and Holland, 2017). Essentially, the role of forecasting is to foresee and accommodate the ‘everchanging fashion landscape’ and ‘the ceaseless demands of today’s savvy consumer.’ (Koumbis, 2017, p.8) And therefore, ultimately encourage consumption.

Time passage of the life cycle

Right: trend forecasting report for the upcoming season.

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- 11 -

fast fashion. Technological innovations such as CAD and CAM have allowed retailers such as Zara and H&M to provide consumers with the latest fashions at the lowest prices (Eundeok, 2011). However, this has had an adverse effect: fast-fashion. The fast-fashion phenomenon has made understanding fashion trends extremely complicated. According to Burch (see BOF, 2017), fast fashion is driven hugely by social media bringing fashion trends to more consumers at an accelerated pace. Retailers must therefore be able to respond to changing trends faster than ever before, by converting the latest high-end trends into cheaper retail ranges at the speed of light, or risk becoming irrelevant. Consequently, with consumer expectations rising, sales of the traditional fast fashion-sector are growing rapidly, ‘by more than 20 percent over the last three years.’ (BOF, 2017) Luxury retailers, such as Burberry, have responded accordingly by starting to adopt similar strategies. For example, by incoporating the “see now, buy now” approach. However, consumers are increasingly growing aware of the harmful effects this “need for speed” is having on the planet. After the Rana Plaza disaster in 2013, the need for ‘urgent, transformative change,’ (Fashion Revolution, 2018) was crystal clear. This change could only begin with brands addressing every single element of their supply chain and making sure this information is readily available to consumers. Fortunately, four years later, in 2017, as indicated by BOF (2017), ‘42 out of 100 fashion brands were disclosing supplier information.’

“Now, in the hyper-connected and ever evolving world, transperancy is the new power.”

- Herzberg, (see Fashion Revolution, 2018)

Sustainability, paired with transparency, are now seen as necessary traits. This rapidly growing trend of conscious fashion has been prompted by consumers taking a more sustainable approach to the way they live (Boumphrey and Brehmer, 2017). Considering fashion trends are closely linked to lifestyle trends, this applies to their fashion taste too (Smith, 2018). In previous years, we have witnessed pioneers in sustainable luxury fashion, such as Stella McCartney, who uses sustainable materials for her products (Fung, 2018). Fortunately, it seems that more and more luxury and fast fashion brands are following in her footsteps, with H&M and Zara embracing â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;alternative business models and new concepts centred around sustainabilityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (BOF, 2017), such as H&M signing up to the Make Fashion circular scheme (i-D, 2018), and Zara installing collection bines in their stores globally. The future looks hopeful: Sustainability will be at the centre of innovation in the fashion industry in 2018, with frontrunners harnessing the circular economy to unlock technical innovations, efficiencies, and mission orientation (BOF, 2017).

Average time to shelf (in weeks)

6 5

2 1 Traditional

ASOS

Zara

Boohoo

Missguided

02: trend analysis

FENTY x PUMA S/S 18

S T R O P RTS O P S RTS O P S RT O P S - 15 -

S/S 18: Trend Alert: Sports Luxe Sports luxe can be defined as the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more versatile, and stylish approach to mainstream sportswear, as it entails placing it in a luxury, highend environment: a setting that it does not traditionally belong in. However, this trend has not emerged overnight. Instead, it is a product of a trend evolution, considering its origin lies in athleisure.

With consumers, celebrities and high-street stores embracing this relaxed standard of dressing, (Cheng, 2018) it was only a matter of time that the athleisure trend would trickle up to fashion hierarchy, as under no circumstances could luxury brands afford to ignore its global appeal and impact on the fashion industry (Bailey, 2017).

Evidently, designers have gone on to reinvent its identity, giving athleisure a new and improved high-end makeover, and so creating a trend that has truly revolutionized the course of fashion: sports luxe.

S S S T

Moving on to the 2000’s, sports luxe is seen emerging, spurred by the 2012 “fashion” London Olympics where luxury fashion designers, Ralph Lauren and Stella McCartney, designed the US team outfits (Finnigan, 2012). Consequently, as seen in Vogue issues that year, the Olympics played a vital role in the shift towards the sporty yet chic look in editorials. This was a defining moment in the athleisure evolution, as the merge between high fashion and sports was successfully executed.

Nevertheless, we see athleisure’s initial debut to a larger more mass audience, in 1982 with the release of Jane Fonda’s workout tape (Hobbs, 2016), where we can also spot the high-leg swimsuit, and leg warmers that have come in and out of fashion over the years, as part of the 80’s trend.

1980s olympics

2012 1920

Then in 2015, sportswear essentially made it out of the gym and onto the runway, trickling down to the high streets, prompted by industry-breaking collaborations such as Alexander Wang X H&M, and Stella McCartney X Adidas, where designers took on classic sportswear shapes, and gave them a modern twist (Studeman, 2014). Hence, from a marketing perspective, by this time, sports luxe had been established as a high-end market clothing sector, as sportswear was being portrayed as an object of desire.

2015

Starting from the 1920’s, Chanel was considered an early pioneer in sports luxe, as she was the first high-end designer to create a sporty look for the elite women, with her designs heavily influenced by sports such as horse-riding and tennis (Deemester, 2017).

Lululemon

1990s

vogue

Then in 1998, we see the launch of premium-priced yoga apparel that was considered trendy, by fashion brands such as Lululemon and Sweaty Betty (CBS, 2016). Additionally, as indicated by Madeleine (see Appendix 10), with Champion, Ellesse and Fila trending in 2018, millennials who did not wear these brands the first time around in the 90’s, have allowed these dated sportswear companies to experience a fashion revival.

sweaty betty

trend evolution.

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Sm X Adidas (S/S 15)

Fast forward: F/W 18 Outerwear is prominent, as sports luxe becomes tougher and more practical than ever before (WGSN, 2018).

fenty X puma s/s 18

Aw X hm (f/w 15)

prada

2016

alexander wang s/s 18

Furthermore, 2016 was the year that slouchy, streetwise staples like the sweatshirt conquered the luxury fashion world (Green, 2017). However, designers were not really experimenting with sportswear fabrics, and so sports luxe is seen in a raw, basic form, with no major innovation to its structure. Nevertheless, the link between sports, luxury and fashion is well established.

versace s/s 18

alexander wang

tommy hilfiger s/s 18

balenciaga

2018 In 2017 and 2018, we see designers truly revolutionizing this trend by incorporating sporty touches and shifting away from the full look in their collections. Whether it is Dior pairing up a gown with chunky trainers, or Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nylon everything looks, the main idea is representing true style today.

Chromat f/w 16

Hermes s/s 16

chloe s/s 16

Gucci

chanel s/s 18

versace s/s 17

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A T H L E I S U R E

trend drivers.

01: athleisure

“Athleisure is the new casual.” - Green, 2018

Athleisure fits today’s culture. In the past years, consumers have demonstrated the need to live a healthier life. This has led to a widespread shift to a focus on health and wellness (Walker, 2017). Hence, over the course of this cultural shift towards casual, comfortable dressing, gym-to-street clothes have officially become a clothing category of their own (Petro, 2018), and according to 80% of survey respondents (see Appendix 4), this has led to mainstream sportswear trending this season, paving the way for its high-end reincarnation: sports-luxe.

We live in a celebrity culture. Indeed, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;celebrities have become one of our key reference points for trendsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Jones and Holland, 2017, p.17), and so have become style leaders. Undoubtedly, it is with the help of millennial idols such as Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Jaden Smith and their social media reach, that sports luxe has gained momentum in mainstream fashion. The press is always sure to capture the off-duty look sported by celebrities as they are casually hoping on a plane or running errands. Hence, inevitably, the majority of interviewees (see Appendix 8-10, 13) verified that celebrities are playing a vital role in boosting the relevance of sport luxe outside the runway and giving it a global appeal. Similarly, celebrity endorsements and groundbreaking collaborations, from Rihanna for Puma to the coveted Adidas Yeezy by Kanye West, have further fuelled the sports luxe boom, as they have moulded sportswear to be an aspirational market sector of its own (Morency, 2018). Their sports-inspired high-fashion collections are appearing in New York Fashion Weeks season after season, granting sports luxe with versatility and credibility in the industry and popular culture alike.

02: celebrities.

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the age of influence. However, thanks to technology, consumers are exposed to a much more diverse, vast range of influences. Luxury brands have also been capitalising on market-specific stars and influencers, that are giving well-established luxury empires a more youthful influence, without compromising their own DNA. Take, for example, Fendi’s collaboration with K-pop star Taeyang, Burberry’s Kris Wu Edit, and Chanel’s sneakers crossover project with Pharrell Williams (Wong, see Chen, 2017).

Kris Wu- 6m followers

Negin- 4.7m followers

Bryanboy- 665k followers

Chiara- 12.8m followers

Evidently, ‘trend influencers have changed from royalty and ultra-wealthy society figures to designers, celebrities, to now street-style stars,’ (Jones and Holland, 2017, p. 60) social media stars and creative consumers that are not only changing the way fashion is advertised, but when interpreting their influence with the diffusion-ofinnovation model, they are seen to be the new early adopters. They are ultimately determining what makes it off the runway in the first place, as they are living proof that average people can look good, instead of ridiculous, in things that only models dared to wear (such as utility pants), ‘redefining luxury to be more accessible than ever.’ (BOF, 2018)

ACCEPTANCE (measured in % of market share)

Diffusion of Innovation Theory

Innovators 2.5%

Early adaptors 13.5%

Early majority 34%

Late majority 34% Laggards 16%

(TIME)

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The dividing line between sportswear, street wear and Haute Couture has disappeared.â&#x20AC;? - Demeester, 2017, p.9

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Streetwear is considered to be the new Haute Couture, as the glamorisation of sportswear, has meant that it ‘has invaded the catwalks after ruling the streets decades before.’(Demeester, 2017, p.7) Clearly, this ‘underlying streetwear explosion is a wider cultural shift.’ (BOF, 2018) Each generation has its cultural touchpoints, and according to BOF (2018), millennials relate more to hip-hop than glamorous Hollywood culture. Hence, they are at the heart of the shift towards sports luxe. They have viewed traditional luxury brands as ‘a tired and inauthentic marketing formula, tied to old-fashioned ideas of social hierarchy and extravagance.’ (BOF, 2018) As a result, they want something cooler and more authentic, and so are reaching out to brands that reflect that: streetwear brands.

03: urban culture

Hence, sports luxe ‘is a powerful tool for reaching Generations Y and Z, who are expected to account for 45 percent of the global luxury spend by 2025’ (BOF, 2018), as it has allowed luxury brands to accommodate the ‘growing affinity’ (Bhui, see Chen, 2017) they have for streetwear brands, luxury and comfort. After witnessing the tremendous success Kim Jones has had with Louis Vuitton’s collaboration with Supreme, and Balenciaga ‘breaking the traditional luxury template and embracing a streetwear-inflected approach’ (BOF, 2018) with their sold-out Triple-S trainers, luxury brands are working towards changing the rigid perception of luxury, by pairing up with edgier streetwear brands like Supreme and Off-White that have virtually become cults of their own. Therefore, they are able to engage and attract ‘millennial generation consumers, who are already buying into this trend and style,’ (Chen, 2017) and create collections which ‘heavily emphasise sportswear elements.’ (WGSN, 2018)

Although sportswear on the runway is hardly anything new, ‘the mood this season is a fresh one.’ (Pike, 2018) According to S/S 18 sports luxe, yoga pants, popper pants and mesh panel tops are a thing of the past (at least in luxury fashion). This season, sportswear resets traditional ideas of form and function, as we see an innovative, fashion-forward yet nostalgic reinterpretation of basic athleisure concepts on the runway. In combination, S/S 18 gives rise to ‘an irreverent, yet casual youthfulness of globalised street culture,’ (WGSN, 2018) where cultural references are shared and blended: The direction is youthful, expressive and nostalgic. Retro pieces are fused with classic street items and reinterpreted in a patchwork of clashing prints and vibrant colours. Volume is key, with extended shoulders accentuated with wide belts and multiple-layers. Timeworn sports pieces are given exaggerated details while classic checks offer a traditional focus with both urban and subcultural references thrown into the mix (WGSN, 2018).

hat is new?

Therefore, catwalk looks and sportswearinfused collections are altogether ‘tougher’, ‘harder’ and ‘more extreme’(Pike, 2018), than ever before with elements of streetwear sneaking into decadent collections, and subtle referencing of subcultures such as moto sports, elevating sportswear staples previously seen on the runway.

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Harder

marc jacobs s/s 18

valentino s/s 18

versace s/s 18

elements to elegant styling.

burberry s/s 18

Tougher

fenty x puma s/s 18 tommy hilfiger s/s 18 off-white s/s 18

marc jacobs s/s 18

valentino s/s 18

chanel s/s 18

take on sportswear themes.

ralph lauren s/s 18

Extreme

moschino s/s 18

balenciaga s/s 18

kenzo s/s 18

forms of sportswear staples.

gucci s/s 18

isabel marant s/s 18

hh s/s 18

S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18. S/S 18.

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• Key Silhouettes: Basic oversized silhouettes elevated with luxury fabrics, allowing for abundant, ‘disruptive’ layering.

• Key Materials: Luxe, lightweight fabrics are dominating the summer styles, specifically knits and silk. However, their is a heavy focus on technical fibres such as ‘industrial-inspired’ hightech nylons, and transparent materials.

• Key Colours: A neutral palette, that is occasionally broken up by vibrant block colours such as provocative highlights of ‘gilded yellow’, ‘copper orange’ and hot pink.

• Key Patterns: A predominately minimalistic approach is taken in spite of an overload on enlarged utility details. However, the use of ‘intricate’, ‘high-energy’ patterns is also spotted. (WGSN, 2017)

r y kat r a n z

fy o

do r g 0 la

Colours

SILHOUETTES

x Puma

Y- PROJECT

y nt

fenty x pu

I sa

ra n t Ma

inko

g cd s

Fabrics

s ic

n Fe

ty x Puma

ool ch

sc o t t

etro

my re

lvin klein ca

e sh Ko

y scott em r e

Details

Patterns

This season is all about â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;youthful clashes of colours, technical sports fabrics and elevated sports details [that] embellish simple silhouettes with futuristic appeal.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (WGSN, 2017)

fanny packs.

Marc Jacobs S/S 18

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Key Items: fanny packs.

Rosie HW

ASAP Rocky

Kendall Jenner

A season must-have, that is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;driven by the demand of functional and versatile productsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (WGSN, 2017); celebrities have heightened its appeal, and it is now sold by all high-street retailers.

Valentino S/S 18

windbreaker.

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Key Items: windbreakers.

Malia Obama

Bella Hadid

Gigi Hadid

This retro piece has made a comeback, with designers taking a contemporary take on its functional form by adding utility details, ‘a cinched waist’ and ‘fluid performance fabric.’ (WGSN, 2016)

chunky trainers.

Louis Vuitton S/S 18

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Key Items: chunky trainers.

Kim Kardashian

Jaden Smith

Hailey Baldwin

Inspiried by the 90’s, trainers this season are an evolution of the ugly dad sneaker, as ‘chunky sole units and over-engineered uppers evolve core runner silhouettes,’ (WGSN, 2018) giving them a youthful and contemporary appeal.

Fenty x Puma S/S 18

sport gear.

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Key Items: sport gear.

Bella Hadid

Kylie Jenner

Kim Kardashian

All types of gear have infiltrated the high-streets, prompted by its high-end debut by Naomi Campbell for Off-White, and celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner, that have made cycling pants the bedrock of their off-duty looks.

MISSGUIDED

ASOS

BOOHOO

PRETTY LITTLE THING

online safari.

FASHION NOVA

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NASTY GAL

PRIMARK S/S 18

03: nottingham

TOPSHOP

Wild Clothing Montana

PRIMARK

Braderie

URBAN OUTFITTERS

(SLOW FASHION)

shop safari.

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Cow

RIVER ISLAND

FAST FASHION. FAST FASHION. FAST FASHION. FAST FASHION. FAST FASHION. FAST FASHION. FAST FASHION. FAST FASHION. Trickling down from the runway and having been styled by the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most influential celebrities, S/S 18 sports luxe essentials such as fanny packs are not only sold by every major online retailer, they are also hot and trending in high-street stores in Nottingham, styled alongside other prominent high-street trends such as fringe and stripes. Clearly inspired by high-end designs, every high-street store that aims to appeal to millennials, was seen incorporating their own version of key sports luxe items, such as the chunky trainers, into their new collections. However, the key sports luxe item that dominated the highstreets, was the fanny-pack as it was clearly displayed at every store. In contrast, the least popular was sport gear, having been spotted in just Urban Outfitters.

However, it was evident that all highstreet stores visited were aware of the global appeal of this trend, as they clearly utilized aspects of it in their visual merchandising, in an attempt to entice consumers. Although, when visiting fast fashion giants Zara and H&M, sports luxe items were not being sold. When asked why, employees stated that their fanny packs and chunky trainers were sold out in all Nottingham stores. Hence, as also noted in store and street interviews (see Appendices 8-14), all interviewees provided unanimous evidence that Nottingham customers cannot get enough of it.

SPORTS LUXURY SPORTS LUXURY “What does this way of dressing say about me? I am a sucker for trends. Personally, I would have never worn a measuring tape if I hadn’t seen it in high end fashion shows and got inspired.” -Sarah, 19

“Celebrities are definitely the ones driving this trend. I have had customers ask me if we sell that bag Rihanna was wearing (referring to the bum bag).” -Tabloah, 18 (Primark shop assistant)

“Now that vintage sportswear is revisited by high-end designers, it’s gained a whole new meaning in the industry.” -Madeline, 19 (Urban Outfitters shop assistant)

“Millenials go crazy for the vintage, reworked Champion and Kappa windbreakers. I would say this is hugely because celebrities like Kendall Jenner, have made these outdated brands cool again.” -Madeline, 19 (Urban Outfitters shop assistant)

“Sports luxe has been around since the athleisure boom. But this season, it gets better and more exciting, with the use of details like toggles.” -Tabloah, 18 (Primark shop assistant)

“Sports luxe beocoming popular means I can wear utility pants, without being stared at.” -Maggie, 23

“I love feeling trendy. Currently, all the stores I shop at (JD and River Island) are stocking up on windbreakers and chunky trainers.” -Mohamed, 21

Sports luxe is a trend that has been wholeheartedly embraced by the Nottingham public. This is not surprising considering Hockley, one of the UK’s leading fashion destinations, offers a vast array of independent and vintage stores that are already selling key trend items such as windbreakers.

Although sports luxe items are not quite worn by the older demographic of the city, it is evident that this trend is picked up by fashion-forward students, that are appreciating the modern twists on conventional sportswear like Sarah (see Appendix 12) and Annie (see Appendix 14), students that simply value its comfort and ease, like Mohamed (see Appendix 13), and students that value both its practicality and stylishness, like Maggie (see Appendix 11). Hence, each person photographed had styled the trend on their own terms, as some prioritized its functionality, whilst others took the more high end, quirky approach, further validating the versatility of the trend. With Nottingham being a student-oriented city, as indicated by Chloe (see Appendix 8), sports luxe is seen dominating the streets of Nottingham in various forms.

street/store interviews.

S Y S Y

-Mohamed, 21 -Mohamed, 21

-Sarah, 19

Belt: Off-White “I love how designers are now reporpusing everyday items like measuring tapes, and turning them into edgy fashion pieces. I think that’s what made me brave enough to wear this belt.”

Bum bag + Windbreaker: Footasylum “ASAP Rocky is my inspiration. If he wears a fanny pack, I will wear a fanny pack.”

-Maggie, 23

-Annie, 19

Bum bag: Depop, Utility pants: Urban Outfitters

Puffer jacket: Boohoo, Visor: Primark “I am a fashion student. Of course you would see me wearing this trend.”

“I like being comfort and I like being stylish.” - 44 -

A few words from Chloe Baxter,

(Supervisor at Wild Clothing vintage store in Nottingham.)

- 46 -

Can sports luxe make sustainability cool? 1. Why do you think the sports luxe is so popular right now? “I think a major part of it is sustainability. People are now thinking about how they consume, and are looking for alternatives, such as turning to second- hand, vintage clothing that is often reworked, with a major aspect of it being sportswear. And of course, vintage sportswear being reworked by high end designers, and worn by celebrities has meant that consumers can obtain the latest trending item such as a Fila windbreaker, at a vintage shop, rather than at a fast fashion retailer.” 2. What do you think are the key drivers of this trend?

“

People are now thinking about how they consume. Evidently, 80’s inspired sportswear has been a major aspect of the trend. Therefore, sports luxe encourages a circular economy, as the recycling and reuse of vintage garments such as tracksuits and windbreakers means they don’t end up at the landfill. Thus, one can argue that purchasing vintage clothing provides consumers with ‘an ethical way of satisfying a lust for new clothes without embracing fast-fashion culture.’(Siegle, 2013)

“Well, as I mentioned before, sustainability is a major influence in repopularizing vintage sportswear. But, I would say celebrities are conquering the industry: whatever they were is in and whatever they do not, is out. The same can be said with social media, as it is a platform where trends can be created and spread in a matter of seconds, and obviously this trend has resonated with consumers globally.” 3. What is different about the trend this season? “Obviously, the concept of fashionable, luxury sportswear has been revisited season after season, but I would say that since it is appearing more on the runway now, it has gone through a fashionforward makeover, making it more exciting and relevant. And since it is really popular this season around, every high-street retailer sells and least one key item of the trend, like bucket hats or fanny packs. We sell both these items in a multiple range of colours, and they are extremely popular with our customers.” 4. Do you think this trend is popular in Nottingham? “There is no doubt about it. Nottingham is a student-led city, and students drive trends. Obviously, it is the celebrities that are wearing them, but it is ultimately the students that give money to companies selling them here. For us, as a company, students are the reason we are still going. They are our main target audience.” 5. Do you think that this trend will still be popular in the future? “That is a difficult one. Probably not as popular I would say. There will always be people that will buy into trendy sportswear, but I think as soon as celebrities move onto anything different, everyone else will. Basically, whatever they wear in the future will be the popular trend for the season.”

04: editorial

i-D magazine S/S 16

mood board.

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pen portrait.

I study Fine Arts. Bob Marley. Nick Knight. I have an aesthetically pleasing instagram feed. My art is inspired by music, religion, and culture. I love vintage fashion. I am a creative individual.

Penny, 19

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Magazine choice

An editorial was created for i-D magazine, because sports luxe is a trend that is very much embedded into todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture. Considering i-D magazine targets young, creative individuals that are knowledgeable in fashion, music, and art, this trendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impact would be discussed in their spreads.

styling shoot: location.

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University of Nottingham

Inspired by the origins and nature of sportswear, the location chosen was a basketball and badminton court - conventional sport settings. However, the concept of the shoot was to capture images that would clearly reference traditional sports, whilst simoultaneously strongly signify its ties with urban culture and luxury fashion, through the choice of styling.

(Female model was not used in the editorial, apart from outfit close ups)

styling shoot: model.

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James Hu (male model)

The model featured in the spread, is an Asian male with an edgy, editorial look. His bone structure, and lanky figure were favoured, as they lend a high-fashion dynamic to the otherwise street style inspired looks.

styling shoot: clothes.

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Clothing and accessories

The narrative of the shoot was to convey the blurred line between luxury collections and sportswear. Hence, the outfits chosen consisted of both luxuryinspired street style clothing (such as the Off-White t-shirt and the Yeezy trainers) and sportswear staples (such as the Adidas football shirt), that are now being worn as fashion statements. Accessories such as the bucket hat and 80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspired sunglasses were used to give a nostalgic look to the otherwise modern take on street style, as well as Chanel accessories to incorporate the subtle element of sophistication required. Additionally, a reference was made to the sustainable aspect of the trend, with the use of vintage kappa trousers and sketcher trainers, that have resurfaced from the 90â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

spring 2018 the sports issue

think Chanel, minus Chanel A pioneer in sports luxe, Coco Chanel proves once again that her influence goes beyond the grave. starring.... edie campbell, mason margiela, john galliano, louis vuitton, vivienne westwood, adwoa aboah, jean campbell, richard quinn, molly goddard, donna karren, donatella versace, anthony varcello, giorgio armani, fendi, karl lagerfield, calvin klein, carolyn murphy, nick knight, michael mayren, daniel og, harry evans, bridget dean, aveline, james crew, gloria yasein, dominique yearby, max youd, lydia warren, mona zraiqat, james hu, chanel, gosha rubchinskiy, off-white, kappa, yeezy, adidas, urban outfitters, asos and yes you heard that right, sketchers.

i-D 59

Fashion Week or Fishing Trip? Photography Lydia Warren, Styling Gloria Yasein, Hair Mona Zraiquat, Makeup James Hu, Styling assistant Max Youd, Photography assistant Dominique Yearby. James wears UO bucket hat (£25), chanel bracelet (£380), gosha t-shirt (£95), kappa trousers (£45), asos pink sunglasses (£15)

James wears yeezy trainers (£750), adidas trousers (£45), adidas football shirt (£80), chanel ring (£425)

What happens on court DOES NOT stay on court. Rules were made to be broken after all. Following Spring/Summer 2018 delivering lavish sportswear with a hint of tradition and rebellion, we are most definitely exploring unknown territory in fashion: The line between sportswear, streetwear and haute couture, is purposefully crossed. Whether you are wearing a football shirt to play football, or to attend the Met Gala, the fashion crowd is cheering you on.

xoxo

Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely, Sincerely,

Gosha Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha. Gosha.

“MAKE SKETCHERS GREAT AGAIN.”

We can blame our nostalgia for the good old 90’s on Trump all we want, but the dad sneakers aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. Once despised for their aesthetic, and favoured purely for their comfort, the ugly sketchers have resurfaced, and are now a highly coveted possession amongst all fashion-lovers. But who is really to blame? The fashion industry loves a good underdog.

When things get ugly, we get uglier. Photography Lydia Warren, Styling Gloria Yasein, Hair Mona Zraiquat, Makeup James Hu, Styling assistant Max Youd, Photography assistant Dominique Yearby. Model wears sketchers (£45)

i-D 64

With sportswear infiltrating the runway, iconic streetwear brands are inevitably conquering the luxury fashion scene. And must we dare say, one is incomplete without the other.

Photography Lydia Warren, Styling Gloria Yasein, Hair Mona Zraiquat, Makeup James Hu, Styling assistant Max Youd, Photography assistant Dominique Yearby.

Game on.

Model wears nike shoes (£130), and asos trousers (£60)

“I would wear Gosha to my wedding.” - ASAP Rocky

“Fashion is a cultural conversation. It’s more than just expensive clothes.” --Virgil Abloh

Its unlikely luxury of practicality paired with its edgy, modern vibe, has meant sports luxe is proving to be a tough opponent to beat, as it continues to see unprecedented growth. Why? Simply because millenials said so.

1-0 win.

Photography Lydia Warren, Styling Gloria Yasein, Hair Mona Zraiquat, Makeup James Hu, Styling assistant Max Youd, Photography assistant Dominique Yearby.

James wears off-white x nike t-shirt (£130), and chanel necklace (£630)

05: conclusion

BURBERRY S/S 18

nclusion. conclusion. conclusion. conclusion.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The state of fashion is both challenging and uncertain.â&#x20AC;? - BOF, 2017

nclusion. conclusion. conclusion. conclusion.

conclusion. conclusion. conclusion. conclusio - 70 -

Evidently, as the political, economic, social, technological and environmental landscapes change, so do the trends that impact fickle fashion.

positive effect in fashion, as designers and retailers are striving to reconcile with nature by taking varied initiatives (McCarthy, 2017).

In today’s media saturated culture, Koumbis (2017, p.33) suggests that ‘now that we can transmit ideas electronically across the globe in seconds, fashion trends spread faster than ever before’, making the definite future of their life cycles uncertain, and therefore, trend forecasting even more complex, as consumers now have the power to dictate trends.

Clearly, the future of clothing is both technical and sustainable (Kim, 2017). However, ‘the further technology takes us into virtual worlds’ (Scout, 2018, p.174) the more millennials crave realness and simplicity: ‘something with the power to drive physical experiences, belief and belonging.’ (BOF, 2018)

However, one thing is for certain: ‘in an increasingly fast and transparent world, there is a need for continuous innovation’ (Louis, see Fashion Revolution 2018) design wise, but more importantly, production wise. If the industry where to continue in its harmful ways, by 2050, it ‘will be responsible for a quarter of the world’s carbon budget.’ (Ellen MacArthur foundation, 2017)

Sports luxe does exactly that, with its ability to give sportswear a new ideology that does not aim to sever ties with tradition but instead derive inspiration from it to represent true style today: nostalgic, yet progressive. Hence, luxury brands have seen their sales soaring, as even though with sportswear’s luxury takeover, there is a rick of saturation, with ‘the growing importance of social media, and celebrity seeding,’ (Wong, see Chen, 2017) sales are only increasing, as it receives daily exposure.

Therefore, the industry is on its way towards radical change, as sustainability is increasingly becoming ‘an integral and defining part of the entire fashion value chain.’ (BOF, 2017) Ergo, to conclude, through this project, apart from executing in depth trend tracking, the allencompassing nature of fashion was explored, allowing further insight into the innovative practises of the industry, but also exposing the detrimental effects it is having on the planet. However, it was evident that the widespread shift towards sustainable living is having a

Clearly, this new direction into sports luxe territory has ‘propelled fashion into new and ground-breaking areas,’ (Demeester, 2017, p.16) since sport luxe is not just a transcient phase in fashion. It is simply how the new generation of consumers choose to dress: “This trend is [therefore becoming] a cultural phenomenon.” (Wong, see Chen, 2017)

conclusion. conclusion. conclusion. conclusio

06: supporting material

GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY S/S 18

consent forms.

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appendices.

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Appendix 1

Appendix 2

Appendix 3

Appendix 4 - 79 -

Appendix 5

Appendix 6 - 80 -

Appendix 7

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Appendix 8 Wild Clothing Interview (Chloe Baxter) 1.

Why do you think sports luxe is so popular right now?

“I think a major part of it is sustainability. People are now thinking about how they consume, and are looking for alternatives, such as turning to second- hand, vintage clothing with a major aspect of it being sportswear. And of course, vintage sportswear worn by celebrities has meant that consumers can obtain the latest trending item such as a fila windbreaker, at a vintage shop, rather than at a fast fashion retailer.” 2.

What do you think are the key drivers of this trend?

“Well, as I mentioned before, sustainability is a major influence in repolarizing vintage sportswear. But, I would say celebrities are conquering the industry: whatever they were is in and whatever they don’t, is out. The same can be said with social media, as it’s a platform where trends can be created and spread in a matter of seconds, and obviously this trend has resonated with consumers globally.” 3.

What’s different about the trend this season?

“Obviously, the concept of fashionable, luxury sportswear has been revisited season after season, but I would say that since it’s appearing more on the runway now, it has gone through a fashion-forward makeover, making it more exciting and relevant. And since it is really popular this season around, every high-street retailer sells and least one key item of the trend, like bucket hats or fanny packs. I mean, we sell both these items in a multiple range of colours, and they are extremely popular with our customers.” 4.

Do you think this trend is popular in Nottingham?

“There is no doubt about it. Nottingham is a student-led city, and student’s drive trends. Obviously, it’s the celebrities that are wearing them, but it is ultimately the students that give money to companies selling them here. For us, as a company, students are the reason we are still going. They are our main target audience.” 5.

Do you think that this trend will still be popular in the future?

“That’s a difficult one. Probably not as popular I would say. There will always be people that will buy into trendy sportswear, but I think as soon as celebrities move onto anything different, everyone else will. Basically, whatever they wear in the future will be the popular trend for the season.”

Appendix 9 Primark store interview (Tabloah, 18) 1.

Why do you think sports luxe is so popular right now?

“Celebrities. We admire them, and want to look like them, and that’s all they are wearing right now.” 2.

What do you think are the key drivers of this trend?

“Celebrities are definitely the ones driving this trend. I have had customers ask me if we sell that bag Rihanna was wearing (referring to the bum bag).” 3.

What’s different about the trend this season?

“Sports luxe has been around since the athleisure boom. But this season, it gets better and more exciting, with the use of details like toggles.” 4.

Do you think this trend is popular in Nottingham?

“Is that even a question?” 5.

Do you think that this trend will still be popular in the future?

“Yes, and I think it can only get better.”

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Appendix 10 Urban Outfitters Interview (Madeleine, 19) 1.

Why do you think the sports luxe is so popular right now?

“Oh comfort definitely. I think that this trend started with designers keeping consumers needs at the forefront. By incorporating sportswear in their collection, I think has opened up the industry to new possibilities, as this has resulted to sportswear and luxury being viewed in a completely different light by millennials.” 2.

What do you think are the key drivers of this trend?

“Perhaps culture as I mentioned before. People want to look good and feel good, and sports luxe gives them the best of both worlds. Oh and celebrities are a big own, as they essentially push trends onto mass fashion, mostly through social media platforms. Millennials go crazy for the vintage, reworked Champion and Kappa windbreakers. I would say this is hugely because celebrities like Kendall Jenner, have made these outdated brands cool again.” 3.

What’s different about the trend this season?

“I think this season is big on revisiting the past. In our stores, Champion and Kappa are huge. As for the runway, I’ve noticed that designers are keen on using bold, and eccentric colours and patterns on sportswear. Also, I think they have acknowledged that sports is embedded into culture, and so have attempted to incorporate aspects such as a football jersey in their high-end looks. Now that vintage sportswear is revisited by high-end designers, it’s gained a whole new meaning in the industry.” 4.

Do you think this trend is popular in Nottingham?

“100%.” 5.

Do you think that this trend will still be popular in the future?

“Yes, and I think it will only get bigger. In the same way that Kappa and Champion have come in and out of fashion, I think that brands like Adidas that are trying to make their traditional sportswear offerings more edgy and cool, might also potentially go out of fashion, and return 5 or 10 years later.”

Appendix 11 Street Interview (Maggie, 23) 1.

What has influenced you to wear these trend items?

“I like being comfort and I like being stylish. Sports luxe becoming popular means I can wear utility pants, without being stared at.” 2.

What do you think this way of dressing says about you?

“That I like feeling comfortable, but at the same time I keep up with what’s cool.” 3.

Where did you purchase your items from?

“Fanny pack is from Depop, and utility pants are from Urban Outfitters.” 4.

Do you think you will keep wearing this trend for years to come?

“Definitely.”

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Appendix 12 Street Interview (Sarah, 19) 1.

What has influenced you to wear these trend items?

“As a design student, I love how designers are now repurposing everyday items like measuring tapes, and turning them into edgy fashion pieces. I think that’s what made me brave enough to wear this belt.” 2.

What do you think this way of dressing says about you?

“What does this way of dressing say about me? I am a sucker for trends. Personally, I would have never worn a measuring tape if I hadn’t seen it in high end fashion shows and got inspired.” 3.

Where did you purchase your items from?

“Belt is from Off-white.” 4.

Do you think you will keep wearing this trend for years to come?

“Definitely.”

Appendix 13 Street Interview (Mohamed, 21) 1.

What has influenced you to wear these trend items?

“ASAP Rocky is my inspiration. If he wears a fanny pack, I will wear a fanny pack.” 2.

What do you think this way of dressing says about you?

“I love feeling trendy. Currently, all the stores I shop at (JD and River Island) are stocking up on windbreakers and chunky trainers.” 3.

Where did you purchase your items from?

“Windbreaker and Fanny pack are from Footasylum.” 4.

Do you think you will keep wearing this trend for years to come?

“Hmm, not sure.”

Appendix 14 Street Interview (Annie, 19) 1.

What has influenced you to wear these trend items?

“I’m a fashion student. Of course I would be wearing this trend.” 2.

What do you think this way of dressing says about you?

“I love keeping up with what’s going on in fashion.” 3.

Where did you purchase your items from?

“Puffer jacket is from Boohoo, and visor is from Primark.” 4.

Do you think you will keep wearing this trend for years to come?

“Definately.”

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references/bibliography/image references.

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