good glossip / spring’s smartest cover-ups / intelligent design / feeling spriggy
n o w e ve r y
m
H THE iris
onth with
T i m Es
a TasTe for scandal By Polly Devlin
the accessories guide super chic and on trend
Wedding Dilemmas What to give the modern pair
plus Battling a Food Phobia Ageing Gracefully making it in New York
MaGaZIne april 2011 / ¤4.50
www.chanel.com
For Your Diary april 2011
e Gloss * Get m y copy of ThTi m es ish Ir with Th e Mon
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observer 4 Gloss-ip from directors to diplomats, who’s up to what this month 8 20 Questions colette twomey’s recipe for success shopping 10 Hunting
Gathering garden party 14 What’s Now? spring’s accessory trends 20 Wardrobe Update lessons in scarf-wearing and preppy appeal 24 Something New the wedding dress reinvented 25 Look The Business dressing the part at work features 26 To Have, To Hold the modern minefield of wedding gifts 30 “Meals Were A Battleground” how one woman overcame her eating disorder 40 Fresh Face, Killer Instinct we meet the unstoppable marcia kilgore 42 A Taste For Scandal paris is full of surprises, says polly devlin fashion 32 Paris Noir seriously chic spring dressing beauty 45 Hot Lips dior’s pout packs a punch 46 Beauty Buffet this month’s goodies 48 Ageing Nicely the authors of a new beauty bible advise 49 A Leap Of Faith On To The Scales shape up to your weight home 51 Upward Trend an eclectic family home 54 This Glossy Lifestyle the best bedlinen food & wine 56 Add To Basket clodagh mc kenna’s decadent picnic 57 Wine choose your wines wisely plus sign up for our new literary supper club 58 This Entertaining Life smart (and sweet) suppers travel 59 Man In A Suitcase start planning that summer holiday this glossy life 60 new york’s finest – three irish success stories 64 A View From The Jeep will politics corrupt connie? He Does, He Doesn’t gok wan’s feelgood philosophy say it with flowers 12
2 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
jan e mc don n ell e ditor
Sarah mc d on n ell sty l e e ditor
ai Sl i n n coffey A r t dir e ctor
l aura merri gan A dve r tisin g sA l e s dir e ctor
Tracy ormi STon con tr ibutin g e ditor s
P olly dev l i n, lyn n en ri ghT, an Ton i a harT, caT heri n e hean ey, kaTy mc gui n n eSS, mary mi ller, aoi fe o’b ri en, P eTer o’b ri en, Sarah owen S, ThereS e Qui n n, roS e mary roche, lui S rodri guez, naTaS ha Sherli n g con tr ibutin g Ph otogr A Ph e r s
juan al gari n, Si ob han byrn e, Sarah doyle, n ei l gav i n, renaTo ghi azza, oli v i a graham, n ei l hurley, l iSa lof Tu S, barry mc call, joan n e murP hy, li am murP hy, amel i a ST ei n, Suki ST ua rT THE GlOSS welcomes letters from readers, emailed to letters@thegloss.ie. THE GlOSS is published by Gloss Publications Ltd, The Courtyard, 40 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01 275 5130. subscriptions hotline: 01 275 5130. 12 issues delivered directly to your address: Ireland: t49.50. UK and EU: t80. Rest of world: t115. Printed by Polestar, Chantry, UK. Colour origination by Typeform. Copyright 2011 Gloss Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. This magazine can be recycled either in your Green Bin kerbside collection or at a local recycling point.
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~ Gloss ip
april
Time for a documentary about LucratIvE but compromIsEd appointments … Reputations and reinventions ... and a drEssIng-down for Irish ambassadors …
T
he Oscar-winning
lift and have the pleasure of being ready and
documentary about
waiting to greet their sweaty and red-faced
the origins of the
pals whenever they make it to the top.
global financial
crisis – Inside Job – is
There can be little doubt that the Dublin
a must-see, not least
Docklands Development Authority
for its superb narration by MATT DAMON.
will be one of the quangos to bite the
Director CHARLES FERGUSON began his
dust under the new regime. The really
acceptance speech with a reminder that
interesting question is whether PHIL
will be as familiar to Irish citizen-victims
HOGAN, the Minister under whose aegis
as it is to those in the US – as yet not a
the authority now falls – and whose
single one of those responsible has been sent to jail. One of the most shocking (and dispiriting) of Inside Job’s revelations was in relation to the extent to which leading
pursuit of shenanigans there when in
NEXT STOP TRIBECA: Young irish director alexandra McGuinness on the set of her last film.
opposition defines the meaning of the word dogged – will initiate a full enquiry into the who, what, when and where of what happened, something his predecessor
US academics have been compromised by the handsomely remunerated roles they have accepted
Reputation Inc, who has worked with several Middle
JOHN GORMLEY was inexplicably reluctant to do. Now,
– sitting on the boards of financial institutions, writing
East regimes in need of image-re-building, might be
of course, Hogan has access to all the files that he wasn’t
just the man for the job.
allowed to see when Gormley was in charge. Plenty of
investment analysis reports – in addition to their work at
people, including former board members, will no doubt
and Harvard. Let’s hope that it’s only a matter of time
Talking of make-overs, after nine years in business, the
be hoping that it all goes away quietly, like a bad dream.
before some uncompromising and tenacious Irish
indomitable ANN CORCORAN of Limetree decided
the business schools of universities including Columbia
filmmaker takes up the challenge here and explores the
to make a point of thanking her clients – not with a
One interesting job advertised recently was for
cosy relationships that existed between government,
gift or lunch but with a recession-appropriate evening
a professional forager – that’s for nuts, berries,
financial institutions and the ostensibly impartial
with a purpose. At 9 Bond Street on March 9 (Ann is a
mushrooms, wild herbs and the like – at the BrookLodge
economists. Does anyone have a number for ALAN
great observer of signs and suchlike), guests, including
Hotel in Co Wicklow. (Makes a change from the
GILSENAN?
MARY DAVIS, who heads up Special Olympics Europe/
dispiriting bags of pre-peeled onions and potatoes
Eurasia, were treated to a fashion trends talk and show
that we saw being delivered to the kitchens of another
In other film news, ALEXANDRA MC GUINNESS’
with cocktails and canapés. On a rain-lashed night,
hotel that really should have higher standards.)
debut feature film, Lotus Eaters, has been selected for
the turnout revealed the strength of her style of doing
BrookLodge’s Good Friday package – a private gig
the prestigious Tribeca Film Festival – founded by
business – thank and you will be thanked.
featuring REPUBLIC OF LOOSE and BIPOLAR EMPIRE
ROBERT DE NIRO – in New York later this month.
(tipped as the next band most likely to and managed
Shot on the proverbial shoestring in London, the black
Reinvention is the name of the game these days, with
by Dalkey resident SUZANNE DOYLE, who used to
and white movie is a contemporary tale of bright young
all sorts of interesting people making radical career
work for U2), bed, breakfast, a barbecue and that
things living life too fast and falling apart at the seams.
changes. DEE AHEARN, erstwhile Director of Sales and
all-important residents’ bar – is upping the ante for lock-
The cast includes ANTONIA CAMPBELL-HUGHES
Marketing at Treasury Holdings, has hit the ground
ins countrywide. Those who are committed to a less
and CYNTHIA FORTUNE-RAINEY, previously better
running in her new role as CEO at Barretstown. Savvy
indulgent Good Friday might consider joining in the
known for her fabulous Sumfortune shoes.
charities know that bringing in commercial smarts
Jack and Jill Run Up the Hill charity event in Kenmare.
from the outside world is the best way of improving
Interesting to hear that one of the first under-the-
their chances of survival and growth in tough times.
2011 is the Year of Craft in Ireland, and so knitwear
radar decisions by Tánaiste and Minister for Foreign
Already she has signed up RONAN O’GARA to launch
designer JOAN MILLAR has decided to promote the
Affairs, EAMON GILMORE, has been to recall Ireland’s
the charity’s Avonmore Big Picnic. Today, Ahearn is
work of Irish craftspeople, at an Art and Craft Bazaar
ambassadors and consuls from around the world
in London for a fundraising event run in conjunction
in Fitzpatrick’s Castle Hotel, Killiney. The line-up of
for a comprehensive dressing-down. The previous
with the ELLEN MAC ARTHUR Cancer Trust which,
artists, craftspeople and designers is looking too good
government was too busy trying to save its own skin
like Barretstown, is focused on therapeutic recreation.
to miss: a specially commissioned painting by BRETT
to give the question of Ireland’s image abroad the
The day starts with breakfast at the BT Tower, at which
MC ENTEGART RHA will be auctioned. The Bazaar,
attention it needed and the diplomats are said to be in
MacArthur will speak, after which 240 fit folk will climb
on Sunday April 17 from 12 noon, coincides with Cystic
for a tongue-lashing. Sounds as if they need to call in
the stairs of the 177m building to raise money for the two
Fibrosis National Awareness Week: proceeds will go to
the professionals – London-based JOHN MAHONY of
charities. Certain others have paid a premium to take the
the Cystic Fibrosis Association of Ireland. n
4 | april 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
www.omegawatches.com
STARRING
NICOLE KIDMAN
OMEGA BOUTIQUE BROWN THOMAS DUBLIN, 88-95 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2
20 QUESTIONS What’s on your desk at the moment that has no place there?
I don’t like to see people stop themselves from
A lot of correspondence that should have been dealt with! I’m an eleventh-hour person.
What achievement did you think you might not pull off?
Do you thrive in heat or cold?
Scuba diving off the Great Barrier Reef. It
Heat. I keep the house toasty warm. Snow is
was the greatest feeling ever, and something I
beautiful but it just makes me miserable.
thought I could never do.
What habit do you long to lose?
What would you tell your 18-year-old self?
Being disorganised. I think if I didn’t take on so
You can do whatever you want, with a positive
many things it might help.
mindset and a bit of luck.
Whose advice has been indispensible in your career?
How important is place to you?
My business coach.
place to live and do business. You’d never be a
Who’s your right-hand man or woman?
stranger there for long. But I also believe you
Marie McNamara, who looks after financial
bloom where you’re planted, and if you have a
and administrative matters for me. She’s an
sense of yourself then you can fit into any place.
absolute rock.
What is your favourite street?
What’s the most rewarding element of your job?
Pearse Street, Clonakilty! Walk from one end of
doing things.
Pretty important. Clonakilty is a wonderful
they’ve realised who I am.
twomey
Have you ever done a job you loathed? Well, I’ve had to do unpleasant jobs. At the time of the pork crisis I had to tell staff we were stopping production, and I didn’t know when we’d get back to work. Awful.
What are you looking forward to at the moment? Australia. We have a grain farm in Western Australia, wheat as far as the eye can see. I go a couple of times a year. The people there are completely at the mercy of the weather, but they never say they’ve had a bad year – they say that next year will be a good year.
How do you get to sleep at night? Put my head on the pillow. It’s instant.
What did you want to be when you grew up? Something medical.
What gets your goat? Waste of talent. There’s so much more in people than they give themselves credit for.
Last night, Colette twomey was awarded the Veuve Clicquot Business Woman of the Year Award in recognition of her success in leading the Clonakilty Food Company since the death of her husband Edward, an achievement which mirrors that of the original Madame Clicquot, whose vision secured the future of the world-famous champagne. She is responsible for developing the Clonakilty Blackpudding brand at home and abroad.
it to the other, it’s full of interesting people and interesting shops.
What is always with you, no matter how small your handbag? Sadly, it’s my phone. Occasionally I have a phone-free morning and it’s a real treat.
By nature, are you town or country? Country. My house overlooks Clonakilty Bay and I love being able to follow the movements of the tide from the window.
What misconception would you like to correct? That our products are for breakfast! Recently we ran six nights of Clonakilty by Candlelight, a flash restaurant in a house in North Great Georges Street. Our chef created a full dinner party with our products – canapés of white pudding and pear, a main course of blackpudding with carrot purée and scallops, even a pudding of smoked rasher covered with strong cocoa powder. And a Jameson infused with smoked rasher. Delicious.
What’s lingering on your to-do list this week? I’m sure I do have a to-do list. antonia hart
Samantha Browne, created for ThE GLoSS by Annie West
8 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
photog raph by john sheehan photog raphy
Colette
Hearing people compliment our products before
HUNTING d o tt i n g a t re n sp
catwalks in blo om
prima vera Every year, just when you’ve reached that breaking point of having had ENOUGH of leaden skies and opaque tights, along comes a glorious day of sunshine (the real thing, not that wan February haze) and the first few brave tulips, and everything’s okay again. Moods – like the weather – become brighter and breezier, and instinctively you’re overcome with a desire to don something pretty and spring-like. What is it about floral prints that is so reliably and reassuringly heart-lifting? We think it’s part nostalgia, part desire for a curative dose of colour after all that winter black. The good news is that this season, that urge is right on the money, as flower prints are one of spring/summer’s major trends (I know, I know – we say that every year, but this time it really is true). Even better, there’s a print to suit every taste – whether cute blooms on swishy dresses at Moschino Cheap and Chic (pictured); old-fashioned botanical drawings made modern at Stella McCartney; or Henry Holland’s splashy graphic palm fronds. It’s a jungle out there – get outside and enjoy it! See page 12 for inspiration ...
10 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Ph otogra P h by jason l loy d- eva n s
0616
Maxi dress €63, Beaded cuff €9.50, Necklace & earring set €18.50 Print top €40.50, Denim shorts €42, Bag €53. All Mantaray.
Shop online at debenhams.ie
gathering
channel the t
re n d
3 4
2
1
Mos c h i n o c h e Ap A n d c h i c
5
we’re suckers for a bit of nostalgia, and love the retro styling of the leathercovered
Roberts Revival range.
(On the inside, though, this is a thrillingly modern DAB digital radio.)
9
the new minty shade is just the thing to refresh a tired interior. t224, at www.littlewoodsireland.ie.
JaS On L LOYD - e Van S
8
7
6
april flowers getting spriggy with it
Main picture: Floral fancies, at Moschino Cheap and Chic. 1. Mint chiffon blouse, t33, at topshop. 2. Daisy ring, Alex Monroe, from a selection, at Muse. 3. Anamaria
Chanel has done it
chandelier, £40stg, at www.bhs.co.uk. 4. hair slides, t6, at cAth kidston.
again. After convincing
5. Banana print shorts, t68, at topshop. 6. glass floral votives, t27 for three, at
women the world over to
MArks & spencer. 7. Mermaria Bleu cushion, the conrAn shop, t92, at Arnotts.
paint their nails beige (particulier)
8. yellow gypsy suede sandals, cArvelA, t85, at Brown thomas. 9. embellished
last season, they’ve declared spring
tweed bag, chAnel, t2,890, at Brown thomas. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
with
Mimosa, an optimistic,
primrose yellow. expect to see it on all the chicest nails ... Le Vernis, t21, at Chanel counters nationwide.
12 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
The science: 8 natural firmers The innovation: 1 new formula
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/ Pro-Retinol A + Pro-Firmyl FROM THE
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P roven -
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appear reduced + f
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feels e
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* Revitalift programme, Nielsen IRI and SRI data Jan - Dec 2009.
It’s not a facelift, it’s Revitalift “It makes all the difference to how I feel about my skin.” RACHEL WEISZ.
photog raph by mario testino
trends
chanel
What’s now? From bags and belts to earrings and bracelets, accessories take centre stage this season. You don’t always need a whole new wardrobe; sometimes one special extra is all it takes to update your look and take it from good to great. On the next pages, see our guide to spring’s accessories ...
glamourama A flash of gold and sparkle is always a surefire way to pack a highoctane, glamorous punch, but it looks its glittering best against tanned summer skin. Inspired by Keira Knightley’s new ad for Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle (see Knightley on set, above, with director Joe Wright) and Mr Lagerfeld’s latest accessory collection, precious pieces are top of our wish list. Above: Gold studded clutch; gold earrings; both at the chanel boutique, at Brown thomas, dublin.
14 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
WWW.THOMASSABO.COM
CONTACT: +44 (0) 20 77 20 97 25 l UK@THOMASSABO.COM
TrenDS
dolc e & G a b b a n a
hoopla Channel the bella donnas on Dolce & Gabbana’s catwalk, and adorn yourself in lashings of gold jewellery. Wear three or four long pendants at a time (make sure they are extra fine to keep the look elegant), large hoop earrings and, of course, the ubiquitous straw shopper and towering espadrilles. Think European – but a glam Romana rather than the Birkenstockwearing, eco-conscious bohemian … Clockwise from top left: Gold Double Hoop earrings, Julie Sandlau, d220; gold Twig earrings, Alex Monroe, from d125; both at Seagreen. extra-long gold Feather necklace, Alex Monroe, from d165, at Muse. Straw shopper, Michael Kors, d300, at House of Fraser.
Prada
texture
Clockwise from top: Drew leather bracelet, d35 at reiss. Gold feather necklace, Untold, d30, at House of Fraser. ellena tiger eye ring, d65, at reiss. navy mock croc clutch, Joanne Hynes, d290, at Style Tonic.
stripe tease
G ucci
For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
Tired of all the austere minimalism out there, Miuccia Prada decided to reinvent the stripe for S/S11 – and it was contagious. This is one trend that has filtered down to the high street and still manages to look good. In a riot of colours, widths and orientations, literally anything goes. Wear your stripes with pride. From top: Satin multi-colour sandals, d99.95, at Zara. Stripe canvas tote, Prada, d920, at Brown Thomas, Dublin.
16 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Catwalk ph otograph s by JasoN lloyD-EVaNs
Layer different materials for a textural pile-up that is brazenly luxe. Go over the top in a hippie, 1970s way with crocodile (faux or real) and contrasting leathers in unexpected, natural textures. Finishing touches? Cocktail rings in subtle, non-dazzling stones.
Our philosophy is simple:
walkability Style made comfortable.
Opening soon at 33 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 | Available now at Clerys Department Store, Lower O’Connell Street, Dublin 1 | rockport.co.uk © 2011 The Rockport Company, LLC. Rockport.®
trends D o lce & Gab b ana
true blue From cobalt to faded demim, make a splash in blue. We love this lush hue worn head to toe or broken it up with touches of gold or tan. This season Mulberry, Elie Saab and DKNY hit all the right blue notes. For those who like something bolder, use coral as an accent shade.
white
e l i e saa b
Clockwise from left: Print scarf, d49.95, at Zara. Pale blue oversize Bayswater tote, Mulberry, d1,135, at Brown thomas. Gold leaf pendant, sam Ubhi, d60, at House of Fraser. straw trilby, d16.95, at Zara.
We were blinded by a flurry of brilliant whites on the catwalks: bags, shoes, belts and other accoutrements. Hit the streets in this perennially chic shade that manages to be urban, sophisticated, classic and edgy all at once. For maximum impact, wear head to toe.
H e r m Ăˆs
tan
Left: tan Juniper espadrille wedges, d125, at French Connection. raffia shopper, d59.95, at Zara.
As a rule of thumb, when the sun starts shining, ditch (most of ) your black accessories in favour of soft, buttery tan leather. This versatile shade is anything but boring: in fact, tan does the job of nudes (leglengthening, adding polish to an outfit) but makes more of a statement, standing out rather than blending in. Much more grown-up ... Above: tan high heel loafer, Mulberry, d470, at Brown thomas. White spike ring, Lucas Jack, d60, at House of Fraser.
18 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
Catwalk photograph s by JasoN lloyD-EVaNs
Clockwise from top: silver dawn ring, Calvin Klein, d55, at Arnotts. White Ginny leather belt, d60; white Harriman felt hat, d65; both at reiss. White Miss rope leather bag, Christian Louboutin, d1,095, at Brown thomas.
“I think the instant results impress me the most. I have already recommended it to my sisters.”
“Within minutes, you see a difference. And within hours, you see a big difference. A few hours after applying Sublime Energy, my skin looked more radiant and the fine lines around my eyes were smoother.”
Susan O’Roarke, Cork.
The featured customers received a gratuity from J&J for their time in making this advertorial. Their testimonials relate to their experience after one day of testing RoC Sublime Energy Eye. *From RoC. **Consumer in Use study, 146 women, 81% saw visible improvements in the appearance of wrinkles around the eyes.
“ This Month
I’ll wear ...”
fashion wardrobe dkny
by aislinn coffey
fashion dilemma I love scarves, but I’m afraid of wearing them wrong and looking out of date – can you tell me what knot to wear? When it comes to wearing a scarf it’s important to stay, ahem, in the loop. That is to say, once you’ve chosen the right one from the dizzying array out there, don’t ruin it by wearing it the wrong way. With longer scarves, the doubled-over-and-looped-through technique is no longer an option, unless you are a spanish exchange student. Nor should you just fling it over one shoulder à la Rupert bear. When it comes to wearing your scarf, nonchalant simplicity is the answer: just loop it once or twice around your neck and you’re good to go (our favourites from the new crop comes from lara bohinc’s glamorous collection). a classic silk scarf is a little dressier and great for summer. Donna Karan showed her heritage range of silk squares, worn triangle-fronted – but remember to avoid the Desperate Dan look by leaving a gap at your neck. and why limit your scarf to neckwear? This season it’s all about the hair, either folded as a band, or worn peasantstyle over longer locks: take a square-ish scarf, fold it in half to form a triangle, then lay it over your head and knot at the nape of your neck. or tie one to your bag strap for a splash of pattern and colour. for a masterclass in how to look cool in a scarf (from the french, who make it an art form), check out www.jaimemoncarre.com.
evelyne Chetrite, Creative direCtor, sandro “This season I’ve bought a Céline leather tote bag, an Azzedine Alaïa evening dress that I know will last forever, a pair of flared denims with a braided belt, a Sandro beige linen coat and a 1960s dress with Peter Pan collar. I’m very hands-on at work, so being Comfortable is essential – a silk blouse, slimcut cropped trousers, a structured jacket and ballet pumps take me from important business meetings to informal updates with my design team. For a night out I always wear a dress. I love the simplicity and elegance of a beautifully cut dress – a woman can never have too many. I mix designer and vintage pieces with my own designs. In Paris, I love to shop at merCi and Colette, of course. The flea markets in London are a real treasure trove of one-off accessories. For SS11, my collection was inspired by the CoaChella music festival, Annie Hall and Sofia Coppola’s Virgin Suicides. It’s such a broad mix of reference points that the collection is preppy, romantic, bohemian and 1970s chic all at once! When I design, I am influenced by modern women who define their time and inspire, like Kate Bosworth, Diane Kruger and Lauren Hutton. I think real style is ageless; instead, you should dress to suit your mood and personality. I think French women have a strong sense of personal style and don’t try too hard.” Sandro is at Brown Thomas, Dublin; www.sandro-paris.com.
Left, from top: leopard print scarf, ysl, d695; www.net-a-porter.com. lunar eclipse print scarf, lara bohinc, about d300, to order, at harvey nichols. Right, from top: roses baroque scarf, d180; www.susannaghgrogan.com. red sleeping beauty scarf, d170; www.viviennewestwood.co.uk. Chain print scarf; pearl print scarf (in background); both lara bohinc, about d300, to order, at harvey nichols.
Skinny stretch chinos
Oxford shirtdress with rope belt
Sailor-style chambray shorts
Nauticalinspired T-shirt
Canvas tote
Slim-fit stripe knit
“AmericAn prep? I think it has to do with American vitality. You know, sportswear is ours. I still believe Jackie Kennedy is the icon women want to look like,” says Lisa Birnbach, author of The Preppy Handbook and Tommy Hilfiger’s right-hand woman for the launch of Prep World. This 60-piece capsule collection is very much about the silhouette, cut and the way its worn; nautical motifs are key. “American Prep borrows from the English and gives it a unique spin. It’s super-preppy and full of colour, but it feels American. It isn’t stiff and starched, it’s rumpled and lived in,” says Hilfiger. “Think Nantucket, in the summer.” Prep World will be at Tommy Hilfiger, 13-14 Grafton Street, Dublin 2, 01 633 7600, from mid-April. For details of our Tommy Hilfiger Preppy Show, see page 44.
20 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
The clever buyers at Arnotts have just introduced Boutique by Jaeger, the under-the-radar little sister of the British heavyweight heritage label. Inspired by Jean Muir’s 1950s Young Jaeger line, Design Director Stuart Stockdale has created a collection of summer staples – shirts, skirts and dresses – with a playful twist. His S/S11 style tip? “Pair versatile denim separates with Breton stripes, broderie anglaise or bold colour-block silks to create the ultimate dressing-up box for any shopper-turned-selfstylist.” Boutique by Jaeger is at Arnotts; www.arnotts.ie.
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weddings SHaRon wau c H o b
JAS ON L LOY D-E VA N S
Wool blend piqué coat, alexandeR mc Queen, ¤2,395; www.net-aporter.com.
Nude marabou feather gilet, Haute Hippie, ¤645; www.neta-porter.com.
Nude leather sandals, RupeRt SandeRSon, ¤685, at Brown Thomas.
Etneu Etneu slingbacks, cHRiStian louboutin, ¤625, at Brown Thomas.
Something New Ivory Victoria clutch, ¤120, at ReiSS.
Ivory taffeta maxi skirt, lanVin, ¤2,750; www. net-a-porter.com.
If you really love fashion, choosing a wedding dress in the traditional way may be a frustrating experience. A beautiful off-the-peg dress can be so much cooler. Dresses by Irish designer Sharon Wauchob, above, may be ordered from Liberty, London.
Cream Donatella lace dress, ¤185, at ReiSS.
Nude lace dress, iRwin & JoRdan, ¤510, at Diffusion. Butterfly earrings, cHanel, ¤190, at Brown Thomas.
Oyster Ocean silk dress, HoSS intRopia, ¤315, at Style Tonic.
Silk jacket,¤550; black silk dress, ¤550; both at YaSmin Velloza’s Dublin boutique. Velloza has an extensive collection of cool bridesmaids’ dresses.
White Peacock cotton dress, ¤245, at ReiSS. Vintage starlet hairband, ¤79; at www.glitzYSecRetS.com.
louiSe KennedY has a beautiful bespoke bridal collection at her Merrion Square boutique, but we just loved this less formal look from the main collection. Champagne hand-embellished dress, ¤3,900; white cashmere duster coat, ¤1,795; both Louise Kennedy.
For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
24 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
IRISH buSIneSSwomen
Working Life
LOOK THE
BUSINESS
In challenging times, it pays to look the business. In the first of a series on Irish working women and style, we talk to Ruth CuRRaN, partner at Merc partners, to see how she does it ...
“I love matching up a client with the perfect candidate – the psychology involved is interesting.” Nude patent shoes, LK Bennett. Navy dress, 3.1 Phillip Lim; taupe handbag, Furla; both at Brown Thomas. Fountain pen, Mont Blanc, at Weirs & Sons.
fILe aWay ... on my desk A glass of water, The Irish Times and my Mont Blanc pen, a gift from family when I was promoted to partner; an A4 diary which I use to jot down notes when I’m on the phone before transferring them to my iPhone
favourite gadget My iPhone (with, I confess, a black Swarovski crystal cover) – I use it for everything except reading the paper. I connect with people all the time and use it for email, online bookings, diary, research and archiving
in my wardrobe I put a lot of thought into buying so I don’t have to think about my office uniform too much. I like feminine clothes – dresses or a suit – and I love colour
LabeLs i Like LK Bennett, John Rocha, Joanne Hynes, Collette Dinnigan PhoToGrAPh By SIoBhAN ByrNE. MAKE- uP By SuSAN BroPh y
accessories Tom Ford sunglasses, long black leather gloves by Helen McAlinden, a black Philip Treacy clutch bought years ago from M&S (and still brilliant) and my mum’s vintage Burberry trench
uLtimate office-to-out piece A black and white shift dress by MaxMara – it’s timeless
make-up essentiaL Diorshow mascara
business must I place a high value on focused networking: our business is all about people, getting to know clients and potential candidates
Look the Business Competition Vodafone is home of the smartphone and offers great devices like the iPhone, and a fantastic new addition to their range, nexuS S fRom GooGle. The Nexus S, running on Gingerbread, is the fastest version of Android yet, meaning better multitasking for business customers. The Nexus S comes with a 5 megapixel camera, 16GB internal memory and with access to over 150,000 apps in Android Market. Vodafone is offering one lucky reader the chance to win the new Nexus S from Google. Email register@thegloss.ie. Include your full name and contact telephone number and the answer to the following question: Q: When is The Gloss Magazine's Look the Business event in association with Vodafone? For terms and conditions, see www.thegloss.ie.
What do you do? “we identify, attract and present key leadership talent for our clients.” Your career path? “commerce degree (in ucg where i also met my husband, a fellow classmate), then qualified as an accountant and trained in professional practice, learning a lot about client interaction, delivery and service. after a stint with a large australian media organisation in the ifsc, i joined merc in 1999, becoming a partner in 2004 while i was taking a masters at ucd smurfit graduate business school.” What do you like best about your job? “the marriage aspect! i love matching up a client with the perfect candidate – the psychology involved is interesting.” A typical day? “it always begins with a carefully made coffee – one of my pals from smurfit gave me a nespresso machine and it’s been the best-used gift. with two small boys at home, getting out of the house looking smart is a challenge so i am organised and buy carefully. i travel to work by car – i like being flexible about getting to clients and candidates. the day involves meetings, research and prep work for new business, frequently a business lunch. engaging a candidate can take up to 10-12 weeks of intense communication with a shortlist.” Downtime? “i try and get out for a quick run after work a few times a week, before heading home. until i had children i never equated exercise with energy, but it really works and it clears my mind. i spend lots of time with family and friends.” Business thought for the day? “why aren’t there more female business leaders? i think we need to do more to woo women back to the workplace after they have kids.” Role model: “my mother – a working mother of five [she was a professor at ucg]. i was the only child in class with a working mum – she was hardworking and, with my father, mutally supportive.” Motto: “persevere, have self-belief and get on with it …”
LOOK THE BUSINESS, the event for working women, held in association with Vodafone, will take place on wedneSday octobeR 19 2011. Advance queries to 01 275 5130 or see www.thegloss.ie for more details. T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 25
weddings
To Have, To Hold (and to sell on eBay)
T
he other day, an old friend
newly acquired Irish linen, Waterford glass and Belleek
bit of game and a few arrows) you either obediently
excitedly dragged me out the
china. I loved those visits and couldn’t wait to get married,
follow the happy couple’s wishes (sensitively suggested in
back to meet her new puppy.
if only for the presents. I remember going to Cash’s in
small print on the invite) or pick up something random
There was something vaguely
Patrick Street with my mother to choose a present for my
which you’re convinced they’ll grow old still using/
familiar about the new mutt’s
aunt’s wedding and can still feel the quiet, refined luxury
admiring. Beware, however, of veering creatively away
bedding … It hit me on the way
of the china department and that heady old-fashioned
from wedding lists as there’s a risk down the line of seeing
home: “That’s the bloody hand-
department store carpet smell. When I returned from my
your painstakingly thought out gift in far less salubrious
dyed alpaca luxury throw I gave her as a wedding gift!”
own honeymoon, I lovingly unwrapped the Waterford
locations, such as websites or under a dog.
A couple of indignant hours later I was waiting for my
Crystal service first – decanters with silver tops from my
Wills ‘n’ Kate have declared that they will accept
own dog to take a pee in the garden, when instead of his
godmother, and from my parents, twelve of everything
presents from close family (so that’s the mortgage taken
usual tree, he micturated upon a broken giant ceramic
from tankards through port, sherry, red, white, whiskey –
care of ) but all other wedding guests are encouraged to
something or other, a wedding present from an uncle
delighting at the sentimental wash of emotion that came
make confidential donations to chosen charities. Don’t
20 years ago. Being unable to discern what purpose the
over me. A somewhat gentler feeling than that which I
you love the “confidential” bit? Why do I have a picture
ugly thing served – waste-paper bin, funeral urn, vase? –
expressed a few years ago when my husband who, in a
of the Duke of Westminster (Britain’s richest man)
instead of dumping it, I had shoved it outside, lest Uncle
rare attempt at domesticity, tripped as he was carrying
guffawing after giving Coutts the order to transfer a quid
bestow a visit.
dozens of said glasses on a tray back to the kitchen after
to the distressed corgi fund. A far cry from the gift of a
a dinner party.
racehorse received by the Queen and Prince Philip, or
Gosh, is this the graveyard destiny of lovingly chosen wedding gifts? How times have changed. As a child I
Tis spring, and the wedding season, and eBay’s
the £1 million gem-encrusted model of a boat given to
seem to remember friends of my mother who would
dedicated site for unwanted gifts is overflowing with
Diana. Not very practical or re-saleable. A couple of my
invite us round, post-nuptials, to admire the wedding
everything from food processors … to … his ‘n hers beauty
acquaintance, whose well off families had fallen on hard
gifts displayed in the new house. They’d have happily
scrubs. So what are the options when buying a wedding
times, saved up and got married this summer. They gave
dumped the husband before throwing out the beloved
present? Well unless you’re a pygmy (giving the traditional
no gift guidelines – big mistake. I bumped into her the
26 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
illustration by eamonn o’boyle
Buying a wedding present for the modern couple can be a minefield. Does one stick to the list, get creative with a personal gift, or hand over hard cash? Aoife o’Brien ponders the (I) dos and don’ts of modern giving …
The Ciabatta Deluxe
It’s got special written all over it
Special is all about the ingredients. Like the new Ciabatta Deluxe. Juicy tomato, crisp lettuce, two types of cheese, onion, mayo and a succulent burger made from 100% Irish beef in a fresh Ciabatta roll. There’s always something Special at McDonald’s.
All our beef is 100% Irish – supplied by certified members of the Bord Bia QAS
weddings other day bemoaning the fact that they couldn’t afford a
then realised I didn’t even want to marry him … so I put
thank the groom’s family. I thought that one had crept into
honeymoon – yet she was wearing the most magnificent
the plate back on the shelf, and the groom, and skedaddled
our culture when, gobsmacked, I heard my father thank
emerald earrings I have ever seen. When I pointed at them
off out of the store.”
my husband during his father-of-the-bride speech. Bloody
she said, “Mmmm, I know, from a friend of his family but I
In many cultures, giving money is acceptable and
could never get away with selling them, much as I’d love a
the done thing, but in this country it is still a somewhat
new car”. I wondered whether Elizabath Taylor ever had to
embarrassing request. I’ve done it, but it’s not a satisfactory
If suggested wedding gifts seem a bit pricey (only the
wonder what she could swap the Taylor/Burton diamond,
rush to get a postcard from Turkey informing me how much
ridiculously expensive ones are left if you’re not quick off
the emerald and diamond earrings and necklace, or Casa
they’re enjoying the fortnight’s honeymoon, of which one
the mark) you can always go for the humorous – gather the
Kimberley in Puerto Vallarta for. The wedding list should be a good way of choosing something the betrothed really fancy, but this too has its pitfalls and not everything lovingly chosen ends up in the marital home. I have known couples rush back from honeymoon to find out how much credit they’ve reached and bugger the items. Conversely it can work well: I bought a clock from the online Tiffany wedding list of a friend’s daughter in New York. Knowing my reservations, she sent me a Polaroid of it sitting on her bedside table. Take it from me, choosing your wedding list items in a department store has got to be the dreariest landmark
cheek. I rather prefer that Anthony gave Cleopatra “much of the Middle East” in 36BC.
most popular music, movies and books of the week of the
Take it from me, choosing your wedding list items in a department store has got to be the dreariest landmark of exodus from single carefree life.
of exodus from single carefree life. I didn’t even know
marriage. That’s something they can eventually show their children and have a good laugh. Equally cheesy, when our first college friends got married in the 1980s, we clubbed together to give them a Teasmade so that they wouldn’t have to leave the marital bed for a cuppa. It was so revolting that they re-wrapped it and gave it to the next couple to get married. They, in turn, presented it to the third couple on their nuptials, it became a much sought-after gift and did the rounds for many years until it disintegrated. Most of my generation can’t remember if they still possess any of their wedding gifts; in fact, while doing a bit of phone research, many disappointingly replied, “which
how to cook then, let alone how many soufflé dishes with
day’s full board was financed by me. In India jewellery
wedding, first or second?” In the absence of money being
heatproof handles I’d be requiring down the line. I didn’t
and electronics are gratefully received, equally cash or
pinned to the bride’s petticoat as she twirls her first flush
even bother with putting a kitchen in my flat and, on my
cheques of an amount ending in ‘1’ for good luck – plenty
of Mrs-dom, the rule of thumb is to adhere to the couple’s
rare evenings in, I’d chuck a bit of ravioli in the electric
of room for manoeuvre there. In Hindu marriages, the
request. No matter if it goes against your instincts to give
kettle and hold the knob down for three minutes.
groom exchanges gifts with the bride’s mother – wonder
them something truly personal like one of your inspired
My friend Diana had a fabulous cathartic moment
how that one would go down in Ireland? Actually, let’s
watercolours from Crookhaven last summer. Modern
while choosing which pattern of Limoges to go for: “I was
not even imagine. In Southern China it’s mostly about the
couples know exactly what they want – homeware, wine,
holding this beautiful delicate china plate and thought of
“Bride Price” and gifts often depend on her prosperity or
cash, charity donation. Avoid pets, paintings, and patterns
the eejit friends of my husband-to-be eating off it, and I
fertility value. Very often gifts come from the wife’s side to
– oh, and creative ceramics.
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PROMOTION
Picking your way through the minefield of manners:
This month ... dinner parties
T
he kitchen supper is certainly in revival, and what a refreshing little loudness and flat contradictions of others’ viewpoints do not mark you out as event it can be. Of course we all relish a tiny trip somewhere really eccentric, passionate and convincing, but as rude, loud and – well, rude. If you special when the occasion warrants (yes, I do have an anniversaire feel the lack of common ground with someone else, all the more reason to looming on the April horizon), and a formal dinner party may be listen courteously and argue coherently. Find something in your neighbour’s necessary if you’re still bothered about showing off your point of view to agree with, and acknowledge that first: no maTTer how dull The wedding presents (but seriously, put the damned Denby now you’ve earned the right to counteract, with care. resT of The Table is you musT away, no-one cares). Truly, though, you can’t beat a few Naturally, you don’t need me to tell you not to neiTher hog The Cork Dry Gin slings with mates on the terrace (I take talk about yourself, your personal issues, or your my aperitif outside as soon as the first daffodils set the health. Don’t rehearse tediously self-centred workhard shoulder of the M50 ablaze) followed by a tearrelated anecdotes, don’t trot out endless in-jokes which conversaTionalisT all and-share supper off the oilcloth. unforgivably exclude those new to the table. The old nighT, nor allow yourself Of course, there’s such a thing as being too rule of enabling others to talk about themselves does not To be monopolised. relaxed of a soir. Don’t think, just because you’ve give you licence to subject your host’s other guests to watched the host mopping the countertops with pages torn from Larouse inappropriately intimate questioning; and no matter how dull the rest of the Gastronique, or dipping a tasting-finger into the peperonata, that you can table is you must neither hog the most fascinating conversationalist all night, kick off your shoes and pick your teeth with the corkscrew. The truly elegant nor allow yourself to be monopolised. Cold-shouldered others can be brought among us (thank you, darlings) know that good manners are not turned on and into the conversation with the mere sweep of a gaze; an attentive host will off at will, but are a permanent feature of our behaviour, and the humbler the notice your act of mercy and thank you. occasion, the more beacon-like exemplary conduct becomes. At Do you disagree with my advice? I’ll use the words politeness table – and not just kitchen, but boardroom or banquet – rudeness, forbids you from using: you’re wrong.
IllustratIon by lynn nalty
mosT fascinaTing
first person
“Meals Were A Battleground” There is one big difference between compulsive over-eating and other addictions. A recovering alcoholic doesn’t drink. A recovering drug addict doesn’t do drugs. But someone with an eating disorder still has to eat. Elaine McCarthy (not her real name) helps shed light on this most hidden and pernicious of problems, where the goal is moderation rather than abstinence eating. While the first two are now recognised – if not fully
while if a risotto is placed in front of me, I’ll leave the
dropped five stone
understood – my problem is more complex than might
table rather than face it. As for salad, I can manage a plate
in
a
first appear. First misconception is that people who over
of tomato, lettuce and cucumber – even a spring onion –
year. I wasn’t ill –
eat must like food. Not me. I have what’s called a selective
but everything needs to be separate.
at least not in the
eating disorder. Most children with phobias – fussy eaters
Is it better when I’m on home territory? In the sense
conventional sense
who refuse the offending foodstuff without even trying
that I don’t have the eyes of a waiter or fellow diners to
– I was simply fat,
it – grow up into adults with normal preferences, but I’m
cope with, then yes. But I don’t cook – beyond doing a
and I lost it through Weight Watchers by counting the
still back there. The things I can’t eat aren’t things I’ve
Sunday roast and throwing some sausages in the frying
little
over
calories. Being naturally competitive it helped that there were others I was up against – Slimmer of the Month, and so on. It also helped that I was living in London, seven flights up, where a quick dash downstairs for a late-night sugar fix was more trouble than it was worth. So there I was, for the first time in my life, a size 12. I can still remember dancing down Oxford Street when I’d slipped into a pair of normal-sized Levi’s 501s. It never happened again. Having reached my goal, it was as if I didn’t need to prove anything more, and it was back to the biscuit barrel. For over 30 years I have suffered from an eating disorder. And suffer is no exaggeration. No one would willingly wake up every day feeling disgusted with
When it comes to food, I am emotionally stunted. Eating in moderation is not something an eightyear-old understands, and although I’m smart enough to run my own business, neither, it seems, do I.
themselves, but that’s how it has been for me. Not that my
pan. I have never owned a cookery book in my life. When it comes to food, I am emotionally stunted. I eat what I ate as a child: sausages, chips, crisps, chocolate, cake, buns and biscuits. Give a child unlimited access to a food that they like – be it ice-cream or pizza – and they’ll stuff themselves until they’re sick. Eating in moderation is not something an eight-year-old understands, and although I’m smart enough to run my own business, neither, it seems, do I. I was 17 when I asked to be hospitalised. My parents were horrified. Yes, I was overweight, but I was doing really well at school and was on the first team for hockey. I was never a wallflower, and nobody made an issue of my size. But I knew I had a problem. Every time I visited the doctor it was the same story: “Elaine, you’ve got to lose
friends or work colleagues have any idea. Elaine? Ashamed
tried and had a bad experience with. I am simply stuck in
weight.” God knows I tried. Limmits, Aydslim, Slimfast,
of what she looks like? Never. I wear brilliantly coloured
the mindset of the child who says “No”.
the Cambridge diet, the Atkins diet, all the various fads
clothes, expensive shoes, and the overall look is glamorous.
Looked at objectively, it’s ridiculous, but put me in
as they came along. Nothing worked. And neither did
a restaurant and I can barely cope. Anything that comes
the hospital. I ended up on a psychiatric ward because
There are broadly speaking three kinds of food
covered in sauce – even if that sauce is mayonnaise, or
where else could they put me? This was early days in
disorders – anorexia, bulimia, and compulsive over
gravy on a slice of roast meat – can literally make me gag,
the field of eating disorders, when they thought the
A big girl with a big personality. And a Big Problem.
30 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
photograph by corbis
W
hen I was 22, I
first person problem was nutritional. My problem wasn’t nutritional,
was going on, it was the blind leading the blind. The
junk food, eaten on the hoof. The phobias proved more
it was emotional, and no amount of diet sheets and food
unpredictability was perhaps the worst of it. We literally
of a challenge, and I’m still struggling, trying to increase
pyramid charts was going to help me. For a month they
never knew where we were from one day to the next, and
the number of foods that are “acceptable” and presented
taught me the basics of meat and two veg, and I probably
we each coped as best we could. I coped by making my
in ways I can deal with. I tried celery for the first time,
carried on “eating sensibly” for a few weeks when I got
own decisions about what I ate, and by pretending that
mixed with apple. I can now eat a BLT – in the past, while
out, but then I had some chocolate, and that was it. It was
everything in my life was great. As long as I did well at
I could eat a tomato sandwich or a bacon sandwich, I
like a shot of whiskey to a recovering alcoholic.
school, I told myself, then all would be fine.
couldn’t manage the two ingredients together. Meals
Chocolate was my great undoing. Apparently it has
By the time I was 13 my parents had stopped drinking
generally were still a challenge, but they were no longer
the endorphin properties of marijuana, so maybe that
completely and family life took on the semblance of
a battle ground, and for the first time in years – perhaps
was the hook. I didn’t care whether it was top-of-the
normality. But for me it was too late. My eating patterns
ever – I was able to let down my guard.
range Swiss, or a high-street brand. I could chomp way
were firmly established, and the list of things I could eat
through ten or twelve bars a day.
without gagging was pitifully small.
Now, a year on in my recovery, I eat three meals a day with no snacking, each one planned in advance, and
Though it lost me the weight, my experience with
During my twenties and thirties I worked hard
nothing left to chance. For the first time I’m beginning to
Weight Watchers did nothing to educate my palate, and
and did well. Being “a bit tubby” was no hindrance to
understand what it means to look forward to your next
I would avoid any social situation where food might be
professional success, I discovered. But each time I went
meal, when your body’s natural rhythm is saying, “this is
an issue. Looking stupid in public was the last thing
to the doctor with backache or high blood pressure, it was
lunchtime now and you can begin to enjoy your food”. But
my self esteem needed, but when my boss at the time
still, “Elaine, you really need to lose some weight.” As for
whenever there’s a drama – or a success – at work or at
invited me to dinner at the Savoy, I could hardly say no. I
the future, I was faced with the spectre of diabetes and
home, there’s always the risk that I’ll succumb to the quick
steeled myself with a couple of Martinis beforehand, but
other horrors …
fix, to help me through or to celebrate. Chocolate, needless
when the time came to order, I was a gibbering wreck.
I spent several years doing Cognitive Behavioural
to say is banned, but whenever I fill up with petrol, or pop
“So tell me, Elaine,” says he, “how long have you had
Therapy. I tried Weight Watchers again, and Shapes.
into my local newsagent, bars of the stuff taunt me in their
an eating disorder?” I nearly fell off my chair … He’d
But who was I kidding? Over the course of a day I’d put
gaudy, pick-me-up wrappers, just a hand-stretch away.
recognised the signs: over-concentration on the menu, asking for this without sauce, that without dressing, generally agitated. “Not like you at all.” His sister had had something similar, he explained, and she’d been helped by a spell at the Priory. “But forget about that now. This is the Savoy, you can order a chip butty if you want to.” A full-time residential programme at the Priory was out of the question. However they had a programme for outpatients, and for a year I went once a week, and for the first time began to appreciate how my eating problem was linked to my childhood. My parents, although super, adoring people, were both alcoholics. With one alcoholic parent a family has
My marriage teetered on the edge of the precipice. While I couldn’t stand my husband’s policing of my food intake, he couldn’t take my mood swings and self-hatred.
It’s a choice. And every day I resist I feel stronger. For the first time in my life I’m losing weight naturally. Since completing the programme at Toranfield I have lost nearly three stone, simply by eating in moderation, and I don’t even go without dessert. I’m learning to make healthy choices consciously and my repertoire of “acceptable” food is expanding. And that’s when you get the real payback. That’s when you feel strong. I’m lucky enough to live close to the sea, and I’ve discovered there’s nothing like a long, wind-swept walk to clear your head, and it’s something I do every day, because right now, that’s what I need – walking and thinking. If I want to lose weight, my husband says, I’ll
some chance of stability, but two – one out for the count
away several bags of chips and as many chocolate bars,
need to do something more strenuous than that, and I
upstairs and the other in rehab – meant that normal life
all washed down with Lucozade, but I’d wake the next
sense in him a degree of frustration because losing weight
was impossible. When things got bad, there’d be a knock
morning filled with self-loathing, berating myself for lack
isn’t my top priority.
at the door and an Auntie would appear. My sister and I
of motivation and uselessness. As a dietician in Dublin
Reassessing your life isn’t easy for those closest to
would go to one house, my brothers to another “to stay
once said, as she put together yet another fool-proof
you, and I have to understand that. My husband is an
for a couple of weeks”. Primed with all manner of excuses
diet, “I don’t understand how you can’t apply the same
extraordinary man, but despite our closeness and love, I
such as “your mother is in Dublin/Donegal/up north”,
discipline to your eating that you do in everything else …”
don’t think he ever understood the extent of the mental
honesty never came into it. Living in a city rather than the
If she couldn’t understand it, what chance had I?
turmoil when I was living through it, when your life is
countryside had one big advantage however – we never
Insanity, so it goes, is doing the same thing, time and
spinning out of control and your need to eat becomes
went very far geographically speaking, so school at least
time again, and expecting a different result. And it truly
so all encompassing. As to whether I can undo all the
remained a constant. But just as we’d be settled in to a life
was madness. My marriage teetered on the edge of the
harm I’ve done to myself over the years, both physically
of squalls rather than force-ten hurricanes of shouting
precipice. While I couldn’t stand my husband’s policing
and mentally, I don’t know. But it’s all about little steps.
and roaring, we’d be off back home again.
of my food intake, he couldn’t take my mood swings and
Instant gratification is now a thing of the past. And the
self-hatred. I was like a pressure cooker about to explode.
future is bright. n
There would be periods of semi-normality, when Mum would cook great meals and most of the family
Then, early last year, a new clinic opened in Co
would eat them. But in many respects this made life
Wicklow. Toranfield House deals with all kinds of
For further information on Toranfield House and its recovery
harder when they fell off the wagon again, and it
addiction, from drink and drugs to gambling and sex
programmes, call 01 276 1000 or email info@toranfieldhouse.
would be back to the chaos, where if you wanted clean
addiction. And of course food. It’s a true haven, a place
com. If you have a loved one suffering from addiction, and
clothes you had to wash them yourself, and breakfast
of safety. Each programme is adapted to individual needs
you are looking for support and help, the RISE Foundation
was snatched from the mess of the night before. On
and for me it was all about confronting my distorted
provides support to family members. This week the first ever
my way home from school, I’d get a bag of chips, then
thinking about myself, and testing the beliefs and
‘RISE Week’ (April 8-15) will be launched to raise awareness
once through the front door, grab a bun and fry up
emotions behind my eating problems. During the month
of the impact of addiction on families, and to raise much-
some sausages. During these periods there were no
I was there, a psychiatric nurse took me through each one
needed funds for the services they provide. This includes the
boundaries, you ate what you wanted when you wanted
of my food phobias, and instead of a diet sheet, I would
publication of a book, You Are Not Alone – Personal Stories
and nobody gave a shit whether you ate or not.
Told in conversation with Penelope Dening.
sit down with the chef and talk it through. They were
on Surviving the Impact of Addiction, which is available
The details of those years are lost now. Although my
astounded at how little I actually ate at mealtimes. My
in bookshops this week. For further information or to make a
brothers and sister did their best to explain to me what
vast calorie intake, it turned out, was largely made up of
donation, visit www.therisefoundation.ie.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 31
Strap
vANIllA Sky Vanilla silk cropped peacoat; black wool and silk pleat-front trousers; both HermÈs. Fashion note: Hermès is at Brown Thomas, Dublin; 01 605 6666; www.hermes.com.
Photographed by catHrine wessel Styled by luis rodriguez
14 | September 2009 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Strap
PARIS NOIR
and blue, and pink, and cherry red ... Black and white is classic and cool while bold colour buzzes on spring's coats and jackets. Pick a mood, pick a colour ‌ whIte RAge Ivory-white silk tulle-covered cotton coat, simone rocHa. Biscuit cotton cigarette pants; taupe leather belt; both akris. Clear plastic sandals, cHloÉ. Fashion note: Simone Rocha is at www.simonerocha.com. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | September 2009 | 15
Strap
blue funk Lavender crepe jacket; matching trousers; black cotton shirt; all Carven. Fashion note: Carven is at Samui, 7 Drawbridge Street, Cork, 021 427 8080; www.samuifashions.com; and Seagreen, Monkstown Crescent, Monkstown, Co Dublin, 01 202 0130; www.seagreen.ie.
14 | September 2009 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Strap
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | September 2009 | 15
bold print Navy and pink zebra print satin coat; orange cotton trousers; orange sandals; all Louis Vuitton. Fashion note: Louis Vuitton is available to order at Brown Thomas, Dublin, 01 605 6666; www.louisvuitton.com.
black art Black wool coat, John Rocha. Champagne wool trousers, LK Bennett. White leather shoes, simone Rocha. Belt, stylist's own. Fashion note: John Rocha is at www.johnrocha.ie.
Strap
seeing red Red wool two-button coatdress, ChloÉ. Fashion note: Chloé is at Brown Thomas, Dublin, 01 605 6666; www.chloe.com.
14 | September 2009 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Strap
midnight mischief Cobalt cotton drill jacket; matching skirt; both Prada. Black leather shoes, Chanel. Fashion note: Prada is at Brown Thomas, Dublin, 01 605 6666; www.prada.com.
Photographed by Cathrine wessel. Styled by luis rodriguez, assisted by benediCte burguet. Hair and make-up by laurent Mole for Airport Paris.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | September 2009 | 15
fitness
Fresh Face, Killer instinct
S
Clever Marcia Kilgore is fit, fabulous and queen of an empire. We talk beauty, toning up, and the Next Big Thing.
he’s been described by Forbes Magazine
Now, at 43, Kilgore blends motherhood and
as a “serial entrepreneur” and the “Estée
management, with two sons under six, a French husband,
Lauder of her generation”, launching
Thierry Boue, and a busy life in London. She works every
three successful companies, the first
day but walks her son to school (in Fitflops) and relieves
of which, Bliss Spa, she sold in part
the nanny in the early evening. She spends a few weeks of
to LVMH in 1999, and her remaining
the summer at her place in Provence, working most days
shares to Starwood Hotels in 2004. Total
for a few hours. She has honed her work-life balance.
sale: $300 million. Then, clued-in to the global recession
“I have two tests: the ‘So What?’ test and the ‘Deathbed
coming down the tracks, in 2006 she conceived a new
Question’. The So What test basically asks, Is your idea a
low-priced cosmetics brand, Soap & Glory, with cheerful,
really good one? Never spend time spinning your wheels.
feelgood product names and slogans (“you don’t need to
And the Deathbed Question: I ask myself what will I
spend an arm and a leg to moisturise one”). Not stopping
regret when I am on my deathbed? Missing a marketing
there, the former personal trainer saw a potential boom
meeting or my son’s school play?”
in toning footwear (with less time to spend at the gym,
Kilgore has sold eight million pairs of FitFlops in 50
she wanted shoes with a “gym built-in” – being Kilgore,
countries. She is an informed and inspired innovator.
she trademarked the phrase) and began developing a
Informed because global shifts and trends inform her
shoes with the help of two biomechanical scientists. It
expansion plans – “China’s rising middle class is a massive
launched in 2007 as FitFlop, a flip-flop style shoe with
new market” – and inspired because she designs products
all the toning technology hidden in the raised wedge.
she would like in her own life, wraps them in humour and
Since then she has widened the FitFlop range (which
convinces us we want them.
includes men’s and children’s styles) with lace-up suede
The FitFlop is designed to mimic the gait of barefoot
sneakers, clogs, sandals and slides. She is a very wealthy
walking, the ‘wobbleboard’ technology challenging the
woman – retail sales for Soap & Glory and FitFlops hit
support and balance muscles of the foot and leg which in
$210 million in 2009, and the two companies generated
turn causes the body to work harder and tone, firm and
combined revenues of $370 million in 2010.
catalyst for the idea. All of a sudden she was booked up
strengthen the legs and behind. To get technical about it,
When I meet her, she is wearing a slouchy navy linen
six months in advance and she needed to move. Kilgore
it lengthens the amount of time the slow twitch muscles
Yohji Yamamoto suit with cropped trousers, a gingham
had saved $200,000 so the bank was happy to advance
(which produce energy by converting fats into energy)
shirt and a pair of beige Supertones with socks. Her
her the remaining $300,000 dollars she needed to get a
in the legs are engaged during each step, by about 10-12
flawless skin, unpainted nails and wide smile add to the
bigger business underway. She saved $200,000? “I had
per cent. The extended engagement of the slow twitch
appeal of a look she calls “Librarian Hot”. So why do all
learned to live on nothing and I had no time to spend.”
muscles means that by simply wearing a pair of FitFlop
her ideas work? “I do think I sense things happening
The rest is Bliss Spa history – exhausting, exhilarating
sandals, you’ll get more exercise. They improve posture,
earlier than most,” she observes, “and opportunity plays a
history – “I don’t miss being facialist, cleaner, accountant
reduce shock and stress to the back and reduce foot pain.
part. I never shied away from opportunity, so that may be
but I am still a details person.” With an eye for detail that
They take a little getting used to, as it feels like you are
the difference. I have the courage of my convictions too.”
would frighten colleagues, Kilgore says “I see everything,
walking on uneven ground.
Hard work played a part too. If ever a success story
even a fleck on a picture that the retoucher hasn’t seen. I
They love wearer feedback. If Kilgore and team are in
was based on good old-fashioned graft, it is Kilgore’s,
am horribly across everything.” Kilgore writes most of the
a meeting discussing a new product, her mantra is “ask
who arrived in New York from Saskatchewan in Canada
copy for the Soap & Glory products. “I am an old soul,
the women”: “That’s what I like about the internet – we
with $300 and started a personal training business while
but pretty silly too, which helps with things like names.”
put questions out there and the response is huge. That’s
attending beauty school. She had several high-
my focus group …” A forum on the FitFlop
profile clients – Calvin Klein, Uma Thurman
site allows wearers to report in – mostly with
– and when her beauty school training was
positive testimonials on the comfort of the
over, she opened her welcoming, relaxed
shoes.
little salon called Let’s face It!, in SoHo. Her
So I ask her, since all her ideas are business
personal training clients came, editors came,
gold, what is next? “Water,” she says, quietly,
the results were good, the customer experience always at the core of the Kilgore way, a rotten facial experience of her own having been the
“and the shortage of ... ” Having met the The Hooper in Toffee Tan (¤69.95); the Frou in Indigo (¤99.50) and the Supertone Suede in Cobalt Blue (¤99.95). At selected stockists see www.fitflop.ie for details.
40 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
resourceful Marcia Kilgore, I know who I’d want with me on a desert island.
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SCRUBBABLE
polly devlin
A tAste for scAndAl
B
anks in France obey their own arcane
in front of them, both obviously waiting in their role as
the eventual stabbing of herself. All this I did, and then
laws and only open for business
vestal un-virgins for someone of drama to come charging
withdrew the money in cash. When you’re a tourist in a
when the wind is blowing in the right
through the door. They were well pleased with me, Electra,
place so much passes you by, you’re always on a learning
direction, when the cabbages are ripe
hair standing on end gibbering with rage at the unwonted
curve, and so be careful at a French ATM in future – it lies in
and 14 virgins are chanting in the
gobbling of my card. They broke into a joyous duet in which
wait for us Johnny Foreigners.
square. I went to the hole in the wall to
Laetitia obviously had the upper hand:
I mention this little adventure as I leave Paris in spring
withdraw money in a town near Paris and the screen said
It will take 15 days to retrieve your card.
weather, the city crammed with tourists, coming to spend
that the bank had kept my card, was on no account giving it
It cannot be retired from with the bank.
April in the City of Light; but it can be a city of darkness
back and to go away. Which I did and hurtled towards my
A bandit comes, when we do not know
too. Any tourist or visitor to Paris hasn’t a hope of cracking
own bank to sort this out, as I urgently needed both my card
He does a sweep of the outside cash machines
the codes of partaking in day-to-day Parisian living in any
and money for the long drive home to London.
Retires the many cards of foolish people
real sense, even if they speak good French which I don’t. Of
Well lo!, the rare conjunctions had happened and the
and at their pleasure returns them to us;
course it’s true that tourists in Dublin or London or New
bank was open. Inside two unwise virgins like twins in a
or not. Fifteen days at least.
York have little chance of piercing the real social life there
Greek chorus, one called Dolores, the other Laetitia (Tears
Probablement plus plus plus …
... the secret cross-currents, the scandals, the political scams
and Joy, I promise you – their names were on their badges),
They refolded their arms and fell silent, waiting for
that make up the daily gossip behind public lives. And
awaited me, both heavily pregnant, both with hands clasped
the great epic speech from Electra, the tearing of the hair,
there’s never a chance of getting to know the people who are
42 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
photog raphs by wireimage.com
voulez vous?: liliane Bettencourt, the woman at the centre of France’s greatest scandal in decades.
Every great city has its own codes of behaviour, social mores and scandalous secrets, which remain unknowable to the innocent visitor – and few cities more than Paris, as Polly DEvlin discovered on a recent visit
polly devlin the subject of the gossip. But after a while, even a tourist
so he will turn a blind eye to her own debauches, a mother
a psychological conflict with her mother; a 57-year-old
can begin to catch on in Dublin; but in Paris, hardly ever –
who lets matters take their course to further her own ends.
little girl complaining ‘my mummy doesn’t love me. She
the newspapers have to be guarded in what they publish, the
Horrible and frightful.”
loves him more than me’.” The same wit said “the fact that
libel laws are strong and even foreigners who live here rarely
Caught up in a world which makes ours seem like the
Madame Bettencourt has had the misfortune of finding the
penetrate to the muddled truth behind the gossip unless
driven snow, I read about the Marquise de Brinvilliers, a
brilliant Mr Banier more amusing than her own daughter –
they have somehow bored their way through the famous
gentle, mousey little person who did good works, moved
and between you and me, that’s no surprise – is not for the
French social reserve and inner sanctums and are asked to
in the highest society in Marie Antoinette’s time, and who
court to judge”.
dinner parties or, God forbid, cocktail parties in strongholds
poisoned and killed her father over eight agonising months
What’s made it so piquant now is that Madame
such as private houses in the capital.
during which she nursed him like a saint. She then polished
Bettencourt suddenly rose up, swept all before her, declared
Tourists are strangers, étrangers, like water boatmen
off her two brothers and, with them out of the way, tried to
the matter closed and settled out of court. What, you may
on the meniscus of life – and lovely it is, skimming along
kill her husband. It turned out that all that visiting the poor
ask, about the political implications? You may well ask. She
the surface admiring the beauty around with little idea of
and tending the sick had been practice so that she could
then talked and rather than sounding mentally frail sounded
the monsters grumbling away in the dark depths. Just as
try out various poisons on them, and many did indeed die.
smarter than most. When asked what she liked about her
I was leaving for Paris, my friend Frances asked me had I
Almost her last words were that it was unfair that she should
daughter, she said, “I’d have to look”. And why had she given
ever heard of ‘lough shooting’, a sound apparently heard
be the only one to suffer, considering that most people of
nearly a billion euros to a dapper society photographer?
on calm hot days when the rotting stuff on the bottom of
quality did as she had done. Which turned out to be true.
Simple. “Because he asked for it.” And then perhaps the
a lough erupts with methane gasses – in short, the lough
Everyone was at it. Husbands and wives were falling like
reason for the whole glorious scandal: “He is madly talented,
farts. I lived by Lough Neagh for decades, swam in it, fished
ninepins through poisoning. She was beheaded and then
but he is such a muddler. I couldn’t live with him for more
in it, brooded by it, skimmed stones on it and never once
burnt and it was about her that witty Madame Sévigné wrote
than five minutes, but that muddle in our friendship
heard it fart. So there I am, a tourist in my own country
the famous words “We are all breathing her now”.
brought me intense pleasure and we did laugh like mad.” I
as well. I mention this because it struck me as a metaphor
Moving on a few centuries, for quite a while Paris
understand that. Anyone who can make me laugh is a friend
for how scandal breaks wind here; and then, when I was
has been breathing the air and gas engendered by the
for life and I’d give him or her an island in the Seychelles
reading the gossip of other ages I came across a passage in
trials involving the richest woman in France, Madame
too. But in a long interview in Paris Match, Madame de B
a royal letter which surprised, me, scandalised, and made
Bettencourt, the L’Oréal heiress. You couldn’t make it up
was not asked once about Éric Woerth or his wife. Or if she
me laugh all at the same time. I’ll tell you later, if you’ll sit still and listen. So, alors, the scandalous fart doesn’t often happen in France but when the rumblings and the gases get too much, wow, the eruption is on an epic scale (you have only to think of the French Revolution or the events of 1968). And, on a lesser scale, it occurs about once a year and everyone reacts with shock and glee, and mock horror. I was talking about this to a French friend who does
was, then it was no comment. As Le Figaro pointed out
Paris loved it. Riches beyond dreams, family quarrels plus a Political scanDal and over it all the question of sex – it was as gooD as it gEts.
(again without comment), Paris Match is owned by Arnaud Lagardère, a close friend of President Sarkozy, so you can draw your own conclusions. The waters closed over the rising noxious gas. And now the story I mentioned earlier; flatulence again I fear. It’s in a letter written by Liselotte, the King’s sister-in-law, in 1693. In one of the most civilised and extraordinary societies that ever existed – the court of Versailles – and the characters involved are
know all the gossip, alas, unrepeatable at least while it’s still
but what the butler heard was the crux of the matter. The
festering, over lunch in the Marais, and expressed shock at
case centred round a photographer called François-Marie
“I can’t resist telling you of a splendid conversation I
the amount of mendacity, venality and general salaciousness.
Banier who was charged with “abuse of weakness”, namely
had with Monsieur [her husband]. I hope it will amuse you
She laughed. “It’s no big deal here,” she said, “neither the
that he took advantage of 87-year-old Bettencourt’s frail
as much as it did my two children ... There were just the
venality nor the cover up.” She pointed at a magnificent
mental state to persuade her to hand over art masterpieces,
four of us in my apartments after supper: Monsieur, me,
house opposite: “That is the Hotel de Beauvais and was
cash and life insurance policies, an island in the Seychelles
my son and daughter. Monsieur, who didn’t consider us
given to one Catherine Belier, known as one-eyed Cathan,
and one billion euros. I’ll say that again. One billion euros.
fine enough company to trouble himself
the perfectly hideous daughter of a porter at Les Halles who
Not surprisingly Madame B’s estranged daughter Françoise
by talking, after a long silence let out a
became (don’t ask how) Mistress of the Bedchamber to
took against all this giving and brought the case to court and
great long fart (by your leave). He turned
Anne of Austria, the mother of the young Louis XIV. Being a
the taped conversations transformed it from a domestic row
to me and said ‘What was that Madame?’
thoughtful mother she asked Cathan to initiate Louis into the
over inheritance and tax into a political scandal. President
I turned my behind in his direction, let off
arts of sexuality. She performed her duty so well that she was
Sarkozy’s labour minister, Éric Woerth, had to leave the
in the same tone. ‘That, Monsieur.’ My son
given a fortune, became a baroness and built that beautiful
government amid allegations that that Madame Bettencourt
said, ‘If it comes to that, I can do as well as
building with the proceeds of her expertise. And through
had employed his wife to manage some of her fortune and
Monsieur and Madame,’ and let off a good
there,” she pointed at the Hotel de Sully, “the great finance
he was involved in illegal financing of the ruling party.
one too. Then we all laughed and left the
all princesses or princes.
minister to Henri IV, Sully lived while married to Rachel who
Her lawyer wanted to throw the case out on the grounds
was much younger than he and had nine different children
that a fair trial was impossible. “This is a conspiracy to
by nine different fathers. When he gave her her allowance,
steal the dignity of an 87-year-old woman who I am here to
beautiful room which is Paris, and
he would say, ‘So much for you, so much for the household
defend,” he said. “Not a week, not a month, not an evening
which holds all the hidden cards,
and so much for your lovers’. His only condition was that the
has gone by recently without the radio, the television, the
including mine.
lovers wouldn’t clutter up the staircase.”
magazines – trashy and serious – talking about the billionaire
To further my sentimental education, the same friend
and her gigolo. It is she, who is the target of this trial.” Well
gave me a copy of Letters from Liselotte, a German princess
of course Paris loved it. Riches beyond dreams, family
who married Louis XIV’s brother and whose letters leave
quarrels plus a political scandal and over it all the question
one gasping for breath at the goings-on at court. They
of sex – it was as good as it gets, and some of the quotes
left her breathless too. “The way young people behave
from the case have gone into lore. They were repeated to
nowadays makes one’s hair stand on end. A daughter who
me with great relish. One lawyer said in court: “This is a
shamelessly procures pretty chambermaids for her father
family story; the daughter is trying to use this court to settle
room.” Which I will do now too – the
event
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Beauty Strap
Giving Lip, Ageing Gracefully
hot lips “i was never the girl next door,” purred Bettie page, the outrageously sexy 1950s pin-up and inspiration behind this explosive Christian Dior catwalk look. the combination of brilliant matte lips, ultra-pale skin and that dramatic swoosh of Crayola-bright on the eyes is certainly not for shrinking violets. With a feisty lip colour, the usual trick is to downplay other features – but here make-up maestro pat McGrath went for fullon screen siren. For lips this knockout, paint on Red Carpet from the Dior Addict range launching this month (using a little concealer round the outside of the lips first for more definition). of the 44 new shades, the sell-out will be Dior Kiss, the petal-soft pink Kate Moss chose to pout her way through the ad campaign. “Everyone can wear bolder colours if they are prepared to make a statement,” argues poppy King, creator of the brilliant lipstick Queen range. if you’re wary, she recommends “a red or a bold colour in a sheer version first rather than full-strength”. her Medieval is the best starter red, lending lips a subtle, sensual flush. And now Boots have snapped up King to create a diffusion line of seven lipsticks and glosses. try history, a wearable orange-based red that suits most skin tones. A make-up artists’ tip: get the truest shade from any lipstick by smoothing a touch of foundation over lips first. the main thing with a bright lip – like a hat – is to wear it with confidence. say goodbye to being a wallflower … Dior Addict lipsticks, d28. No.7 by Poppy King is at larger Boots stores, from s14.25. Lipstick Queen is at SpaceNK.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 45
beauty
..
lf . e s r u o y Gorge
t e f buf h by SARA
hALLIW
ELL
Any pot bearing the words Eve Lom on the label gets snapped up immediately by beauty insiders. Why? because her skincare works. If you’ve tried her cult cleansing cream, you’ll know there’s no going back. So it’s no surprise to find that her two new serums are equally convincing. The intEnSE hydration SErum is moisturising and effective, boosting the level of hyaluron naturally produced in the body to rehydrate and plump skin, while the intEnSE Firming SErum is light yet hardworking. d110 each, at Revive and SpaceNK.
Bright Eyes AnTI-AGEInG EyE CREAMS TO lIfT, fIRM, SMOOTHE – OR All THREE.
1. For sagging eyelids LancÔme RÉneRgie yeux muLtipLe Lift This treatment for the entire eye contour area claims to lift sagging eyebrows as well as sort dark circles, puffiness, lines and wrinkles, so I couldn’t smooth it on fast enough. The nifty jar has cream in the base and an eye brightener in the lid. Gentle and hydrating, it doesn’t irritate even sensitive eyes, like mine. I found the brightener tends to sit in creases, so blend carefully. d53.
2. For big bags eyesentiaL Originally designed for Hollywood actors, Eyesential works under the eyes, and ‘temporarily erases’ eye bags, lines and puffiness in minutes. It creates an invisible fine ‘web’ on the skin that gently lifts the area and make-up artists rave about it as ‘the instant eye lift’. Use sparingly: one bottle should last about three months. Available from buyeyesential.ie, and pharmacies from May. d49.95.
3. For puffy eyes DR LeWinn’s fiRming eye cReam This premium Australian brand created by a plastic surgeon has just landed in Arnotts and presents itself as an alternative to Botox and injectables. Part of the Skin Cell Renewal range, this is more gel than cream, and instantly depuffs, containing vitamin A and aloe vera to soothe and smooth. d42.
46 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
As you’d expect, Clarins Extra-Firming Body CrEam does exactly what it says on the pot. A luscious peachy colour with a gentle scent of lemon thyme, it’s like liquid cashmere. Shea butter and jojoba oil make it super-hydrating without being sticky so it’s ideal for hands and areas of rough skin. Luxurious enough to lure me from my usual REN Frankincense cream. d47.50.
Dish of the Day
Less glamorous, but worth knowing about, Vichy’s
24-hour dry touCh dEodorant
These cute Clinique ChuBBy
StiCk moiSturiSing Lip CoLour BaLm CrayonS,
is the first aluminium-free roll-on I’ve tried that really works. It also dries quickly and is ideal for sensitive skin. d9.50.
land here on April 15 in eight luscious shades: we’re fighting over Chunky Cherry like kids in a crèche. There’s no messy sharpening involved: just twist the base. Get hold of one early to avoid tantrums. a19.
The April visiT: Inglot
T
here’s a buzz around the ground floor of Dundrum Town Centre these days. On a Saturday, the brightly-lit kiosk beside BT2 is so mobbed with glossy-haired girls it looks like a Justin Bieber convention. And it’s not just teens who have homed in on make-up brand Inglot; make-up artists love its quality, and word is spreading. It might look like a popup store, but Inglot is here to stay. Geraldine Swarbrigg and her daughter Jane introduced Inglot to Ireland last summer, opening in Liffey Valley before finding their “perfect location” in Dundrum. With her 30 years’ retail experience – she brought Vero Moda here in the 1990s, and worked with Aldo shoes – Geraldine knows a good thing when she sees it. And Jane has been learning the retail ropes her whole life, starting off in a Moses basket at Geraldine’s first boutique in Mullingar. She’s worked for Monsoon and is a trained make-up artist. So what’s Inglot’s USP? Think good quality, on-trend and affordable. Walk in and you’re hit by a vivid wall of colour. Even if you’re a hardened nude-and-neutrals girl, it’s hard to resist the lipsticks, eyeshadows and pigment pots in every shade. And it’s all keenly priced, with lipsticks at d12, foundations d20. Best of all, you can get stuck in and try them out. “It’s the same as trying on your heels,” says Jane. “The idea with Inglot is, let people play with it.” While I was in store, women of all ages were exploring. “People are always looking for tips and ideas – not everyone
is confident about makeup,” says Jane. All staff are trained make-up artists: “They are very passionate and know so much.” Inglot is currently offering free makeup lessons (book in advance), and make-overs are d25 (redeemable against product). Usually when you buy a make-up palette, there’s a dud colour you never use. With Inglot’s ‘Freedom System’, you choose precisely what you want: mix and match lip colours, a powder, maybe a concealer – and they’re put together in one handbag-friendly case. Select a single eyeshadow (d12) or up to ten favourite colours. There are also magnetic palettes that can click together, creating your own personalised set. Their bestseller? The gel eye liner No 77 in black (d14): “Because it’s very durable, easy to apply and doesn’t smudge – makeup artists love it,” enthuses Jane. Other star items include the 42-piece brush set (d295), which sold out in a week; there’s a waiting list for the next lot. Also worth trying is the breathable nail varnish (d13). There are pastels for spring, though I prefer the eight metallic shades: No 964, a rich purple, is flying off the shelves. Inglot, Dundrum Town Centre, 01 298 1909; www.inglotireland.com.
PH OTOGRAPHS By jOAnnE MURPHy
y t u bea
Hissyfit is an Australian brand available from House of Fraser and www.beautyfeatures.ie, from April. Aussie brands excel at highprotection foundations (SPF50+). We rate the Lip SErviCE Lip BaLm, also SPF 50+, containing shea butter, jojoba oil and vitamin E to moisturise and plump lips. It has a subtle colour tint too. Just wish it came in a larger tube. d14.95
Beauty
Back lash
“ This Month I’ll Use ...”
Heading into spring, we’re ditching the false eyelashes and making the most of what we’ve got. Besides, those falsies aren’t doing our own lashes any good. I swear by getting eyelashes tinted: it’s one of the best low-maintenance beauty tips, preventing panda-eyes and stopping you look washed-out. Shavata at Harvey Nichols (01 291 0488) is a good place to start. And we’ve heard good things about RapidLash Eyelash Enhancing Serum (d49.99, at Boots), which conditions and moisturises lashes to make them look their fullest and most Cheryl-like; it also boosts thinning eyebrows. It takes a fair few weeks to see results, so have patience. Otherwise, try a bit of colour to give your lashes a boost: try YSL’s waterproof Mascara Singulier La Nuit Blanche (d31) in Vibrant Violet or Vibrant Blue. Lancôme Hypnôse Precious Cells (d25.50), a volume-boosting, regenerating mascara launched last year, is now available as a limited-edition black with a hint of purple or green. Try layering luscious Noir Purple on the lashes on the outer eye corner to open up the eyes.
Eight Hour Cream
Fiona o’ShaughneSSy, actress, starring in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof at The Gate Theatre, talks beauty ...
Purifying & Detoxifying Mask
“To be honeST, I keep things really simple. At the moment I’m just using a
Tried & TeSTed
tiny bit of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream on my face – I love the slightly medicated smell. Or perhaps some Eucerin cream. I really like Elemental Herbology’s gentle Biodynamic Facial Soufflé. And Seavite, a Galway
TRIED: Beyond Botox Facial at Serenity Day Spa, 55B Glasthule Road, Sandycove, Co Dublin, 01 230 0244; www.nualawoulfe.ie. WHO’S EXPERTISE? Nuala Woulfe, owner and exceptional therapist; her
company, does an excellent seaweed mask – it makes me feel like I’m part of the west of Ireland wherever I am in the world. I use E’SPA Fitness Body Oil religiously before going on stage – it really prevents tense muscle pain. ScreenFace and MAC are both good for stage make-up. I have to wear tons
adaptations of treatments are well-informed and clever – you won’t find
of make-up on stage and it’s really tough on your skin, so I don’t wear much
them elsewhere. THE
USP: The hint is in the name – Woulfe believes in anti-ageing the holistic way as opposed to the Hollywood way. THE SCIENCE: The treatment combines Jet Peel, oxygen therapy and
otherwise. To be honest, I think the only way to have good skin is to drink as much water as you can. I have pale skin, so try to use Esthederm facial sunblock. I don’t wear perfume; instead I love aromatherapy oils, like Trilogy
microcurrent to tone and strengthen facial muscles, reduce fine lines and
Rosehip Oil. A few years ago I was Fiona’s Beauty
Bill
t Hour Cream t21 Elizabeth Arden Eigh g Day Cream t13.94 Eucerin Replenishin ial Soufflé t50 gy Biodynamic Fac Elemental Herbolo e Mask t14 anic Seaweed Fac Seavite Purifying Org .95 anic Rosehip Oil t19 Trilogy Certified Org y Oil E'SPA Fitness Bod MAC Pro Long-Wear
stimulate cell turnover. THE
impulse to get my hair all cut off at
stage feels like your face is exposed to the seafront, irrigated with micro-
Bridget’s (Rathdrum, 0404 46167)
powerhose-like jets of slightly salted water, fresh and invigorating; next
– and I got more compliments on
the 'hose' is used to blast the skin with oxygen; then skin is slathered in an
that haircut than any other. I use
ultrasound gel to carry the microcurrent which gently stimulates the cells and
Avalon Lavender Shampoo with a
perceptibly tightens the muscles. OUTCOME: The results are immediate –
Pantene conditioner like Ice Shine.
Foundation t25.95 Facial Sunblock t64
conditioner t4.99 Pantene Ice Shine
dancing. This morning I danced
76 p Body Butter t5. The Body Shop Hem
Total: t274.68
it was incredibly refreshing, not just the deep cleanse, the hydration and the
a gym person: I walk everywhere, I cycle – but what I really love is
VO5 Hot Oil t2.65
between my eyebrows seems fainter. More to the point, I loved the treatment:
it’s very 1980s, but it works. I’m not
mpoo t6.44 rishing Lavender Sha Avalon Organics Nou
shot of vitamin C from application of the Skinceuticals serum applied, but so many facials are soothing yet palliative, ie, do no harm. This one made me
for a couple of hours. It keeps me
and my skin feel enlivened and well. THE
sane." Cat on a Hot Tin Roof is at
readers receive one free session for every course of three booked.
01 874 4045
how to do: molten metals
"A woman’s scent is her signature, often leaving more of a lasting impression than a given outfit she chooses to wear," says Narciso Rodriguez. His Essence Eau de Musc (from t49, at Brown Thomas) comes in a heavy mirrored glass bottle, like an exquisite weapon – and yet the scent is incredibly light: as the designer puts it, "fresh, weightless and sexy". Perfect for spring, then, with top notes of citrus and powdery iris. Another gorgeous bottle is Stella McCartney’s new Sheer Stella (t60), a limited edition that hits a light note, with crisp apple, lemon and Bulgarian rose, and a heart of peony and roses. Flora by Gucci Eau Fraiche (t59, at The Perfume Shop) is a younger take on the original 2009 Flora, with notes of pink pepper, peony, patchouli and rose, and a box inspired by a silk scarf created for Princess Grace.
STe lla m c car Tne y
gucci
DETaIlS: d130. the Gloss
The Gate Theatre until June 11; call
caTwalk to counTer
r od r igue z
EXPERIENCE: Unbelievable. The first
my skin looks plumped and smooth and even in tone. I think the awful furrow
I also love VO5 Hot Oil treatment:
t46
Photo-Reverse Institut Esthederm
staying in Wicklow and decided on
prada
From Prada to Valentino, the catwalks were shimmering with metallics for spring/summer. Try a streak of Max Factor’s Silver Storm (d7.99) on eyelids for some drama, or FlaShback Silver from l’orÉal’s moody Color Infallible range (d10.79), which also features black and midnight blue. YSL’s new Pure chromaticS eye colours (d53), meanwhile, can create two different looks: use dry for a satin finish, or wet for a stronger statement. Choose from six different palettes of four shades: we love Harmony No 5, with its smoky pink and greys. Metallic is a trend that’s staying right through to winter: at the Dries van Noten autumn/winter show, Chanel’s Creative Director Peter Philips went for "a touch of gold on a quiet face" using an intense gold eyeliner. While we wait for that to appear on counters, on August 19, we will use the iron GoddeSS metallic eye Pencil (d1.79) from pharmacy brand Essence, or Marks & Spencer’s excellent long-wear eSSential colourS liquid eyeliner (d4.75). For a flash of molten metal on nails, try Nars’ Full metal Jacket (d15.55), a sleek gunmetal grey (at narscosmetics.co.uk).
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 47
beauty
“Like Many WoMen my age, i aM 28 ...”
how to look younger • Use serums under your moisturiser. “One of the most economical ways of delivering nutrients to your skin,” says Stacey. “Facial oils are also wonderful: it’s amazing how much they can pack in a few drops. Use them religiously rather than once a week, and just a drop – more is not better with oils and serums.”
So said famously wry Chicago Tribune columnist, Mary Schmich. It’s hardly news that the older we get, the more effort goes into looking our best – but there are some secrets (and products) that make the task easier. The authors of a new anti-ageing bible enlighten Sarah Halliwell
I
t’s only as we get older that we realise how effortless it was to be young. As the dewy skin and shiny hair of our twenties become a distant memory, looking our best involves rather more effort – and a whole lot more face cream. So how can we embrace the oncoming years with style? With years of beauty journalism and a hefty pile of bestselling books under their respective belts,Josephine Fairley and Sarah Stacey, authors of The Anti-Ageing Beauty Bible (Kyle Cathie, d23.50), are the people to ask. With a joint age of over 112 (though you’d never guess to look at them), they’ve applied their experience and common sense to the ageing process. The book is an A-Z of everything that bothers us about ageing, with chapters on cellulite, stretch marks and middle-age spread. Sound depressing? In fact, it’s decidedly uplifting, with a chatty tone, elegant silhouettes by illustrator David Downton and photographs of fantastic-looking older women. Observing that women can “fade away” and lose confidence as they get older, Fairley and Stacey advocate a natural and holistic approach. “One of our big things has always been to look at what’s on the inside as well as what’s on the outside. This is a huge factor in what makes you feel fantastic,” says Sarah Stacey. The book is heaving with advice from nutritionists and dermatologists as well as beauty gurus like Laura Mercier. What really brings the book to life are the revelations of the product testers. As with all their books, the authors recruited 2,500 real women aged 35-plus to put a mountain of anti-ageing creams and serums to the test. Each item was trialled – rigorously – by ten women over three months. Products are rarely put through their paces with this level of independence, and so the verdicts count: winning a Beauty Bible award is like getting an Oscar. “This is the distillation of everything we know,”
58 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
says Jo Fairley, “which is why the tone of this book is slightly bossier than the previous ones. We’re saying, follow this and it will work.” The book features a massive range of products, from low-cost lipsticks to big-bucks creams. “We can tell you which low-cost brands work,” confirms Fairley. “The fact is, fewer low-cost brands work brilliantly in categories such as miracle creams and foundations. But cheap mascaras are phenomenal, for instance.” Some products will be familiar: Guerlain’s Issima Midnight Secret, for example, has long been heralded as “eight hours’ sleep in a bottle”. Others may surprise you. The highest-scoring product ever trialled in 15 years of Beauty Bible testing is Nude Replenishing Night Oil, from our own Bryan Meehan and Ali Hewson’s range of natural skincare. “And if I could have only one product in the book – in fact in the world – it would be the Superskin Moisturiser by Liz Earle,” says Fairley. “It has an incredible effect at a reasonable price.” Stacey plumps for La Clarée’s Radiant Elixir from an organic French range. The authors also found that shampoos and conditioners for coloured, dyed or thinning hair perform way better than expected, as do many rosacea skin creams, particularly the Advanced Formula Solutions Anti-Redness Serum (d13) from good old M&S. What really comes across, both talking to them and reading the book, is Stacey and Fairley’s passion for what they do. Stacey sums up: “We genuinely love products and we’re grateful for them … but never forget it’s what going on between your ears that’s really important. You can’t glow if you’re unhappy. So live well, and love your life!” And crucially, to quote one of our favourite tips in the book, “Don’t ever be photographed before lunchtime”. www.beautybible.com
• Some face creams are expensive, but you don’t need to use a lot. And remember: no topical is going to work miracles if you’re not drinking water and sleeping and eating well. • Try using a primer under foundation to help neutralise redness, even out skintone and create a good base for your make-up. • Brighten the eye area, even if you don’t have dark circles or obvious shadows. • Invest in a good concealer. “By Terry concealer is excellent – sometimes I just use that, with no base, around eyes and on any pigmentation and veins,”says Stacey. • “One of the most important things is to avoid too much base,” says Stacey. “Also, don’t think that your foundation has to go on ‘neat’. Mix with a bit of moisturiser or facial oil, and you will look dewy. Every woman over 40 has to wear foundation.” • Choose moisturising lipsticks rather than matte, as they’re better for older and thinner lips. • Use a powder blusher that really does suit everyone who tries it: Chanel Joues Contraste in No 15 Orchid Rose, a soft rose. • Give up red lipstick between the ages of 45-60: It dominates the face too much. • Don’t neglect your hands: they are one of the biggest giveaways of ageing. Care for them as you do your face: use a hand cream with a built-in SPF, exfoliate weekly, and slather on a rich hand cream at night. 1. Nude Replenishing Night Oil, around d50, SpaceNK Dublin, and at nudeskincare.com. 2. Liz Earle Superskin Concentrate, d42.25, ie.lizearle.com and stockists.
1
2
3
3. Chanel Joues Contraste in No 15 Orchid Rose, d36.
A
weighing in s we edge into swimsuit season, I can
glass of wine, went to the nearby bathroom and – just
say I am at least one of the few
because it was there – cheerfully leaped onto a scale. To his
women who is not obsessed
horrified (and yet still somewhat cheerful) amazement,
with her weight. This is
the number he saw was 195. Regaining his seat at
because after spending 48
the table, waving a new glass of shiraz, he breezily
years together, my weight
observed to our group of women that he really
and I have finally struck a deal. Yes, by necessity,
preferred to be 175, and 185 feels chubby. Hence
we still cohabit – we eat together, we sleep together,
195 seemed quite off the map. Then again, truth
I still drive the two of us around town – but it doesn’t
be told, he believed he had perhaps dodged a bullet
ask after me and I don’t ask after it. In the 1980s and
by not seeing the dreaded number 200. (For the
even the 1990s, we used to check in anxiously with
record, the next day – after an untroubled breakfast,
each other every day, with continual dialogue. But over the
Charlie jumped onto the scale again, but earlier in
decades, with our too-close relationship, my weight and I
the day, without shoes or clothes, and suddenly was
have become increasingly dissatisfied.
magically 185 again. Men are different.)
To wit, I’ve come to the profound realisation that I will
To me, this was astonishing for two reasons. One
never have a weight I’m going to be proud of, or that even
was how, as opposed to women, men measure their
looks nice on a page. I will never weigh 115 pounds or even
weight in ten-pound increments. Charlie’s assessment of
125, which for some reason has always been ingrained in me
his weight was similar to that performed by most of the
as what adult women should weigh (in the same 1950s way,
men I know – who, while they find themselves perhaps a
I suppose, that one’s dinner table should always feature cloth
bit skinny at 165, don’t generally care either (too much)
napkins or that your handbag should match your shoes). I
to bounce around in the low two centuries. By my
don’t even weigh what it says on my driver’s licence: 137. Maybe ten pounds heavier, which I consider essentially identical, given the vagaries of differently calibrated scales and water retention. Even when I was 18, 137 was a random dart throw, and to be even anywhere close to that, three decades later, I think is amazing. To tell you the truth, I have no idea exactly what I weigh these days, as I no longer own a bathroom scale. I banished it a few years ago as a conscious midlife protest against my post-boomer generation, that group of women whose chief contribution to the culture, as Judith Warner suggested in her book Perfect Madness, was arguably anorexia. Even though I’m almost 5’8”, taller than the average woman, I’m sure I easily weigh less than the average woman. Just in case, to hold myself in check, I keep a couple of pairs of jeans around like loaded guns that I eye warily, knowing that at any moment I could disturb my equilibrium by trying to pull them on. I don’t try, but the threat is there. Anyway, I’m not too worried because I’ve cobbled together a pretty reliable weight-control regimen based on my four-decade survival of Pritikin (briefly), Atkins, the Zone Diet, South Beach and even the marvellous 1970s diet Ed McMahon espoused called ‘Martinis and Whipped
illustration and f eature © 2011 new York times news service
Cream’ (where you can have all the steak, butter and gin you want, but no carb-filled carrots). My secret is to eat just one meal a day. How I do it (when I am doing it) is to ingest nothing but coffee starting from the time I get up in the morning until the clock reaches the magical number five. (Am I sometimes tempted to sleep till noon to shrink the window until cocktail hour? Sure.) At 5pm, I slowly and mindfully break my fast, although as you can imagine I’m pretty hungry by five, so before dinner, along with wine and some cheeses I may enjoy some olives
estimation, for a normal-size man, that is almost a
a leap of faith onto the scales Ask any woman about her weight and the answer is likely to be “it’s complicated”. With bikini season looming, it’s time to think – and weigh yourself – like a man, says SANDRA TSING LOH
and two or three slices of salami and just a bit of sourdough
50-pound spread, and that’s without having to give birth to a baby (or two) in the middle. Meanwhile, I think of my weight as generally being in the 140s, within which 142 feels trim-ish, 145 is depressing, and a terrifying reading of 147.2 (I used to have a digital scale that measured tenths of a pound) is practically a reason to leap off a bridge. The second amazing thing was how a heterosexual man could leap onto a scale fully clothed right in the middle of a giant dinner. I myself am very careful and superstitious about when, how and why I choose to step onto a scale. I would like some lead time first – at least two weeks – to fast and prepare myself. I would like to perform the act first thing in the morning, before ingesting any solids or liquids. I would like to be clear about my intentions regarding the spiritual journey I wish to go on vis-a-vis seeing a dreaded actual number, absolution, redemption, punishment. To this end, preparation may be required, several preliminary trips to the bathroom, careful drying of hair, removing of thin gold chain around neck or other heavy items like a ring. Also I think, as in the high jump, one’s scale work benefits from a careful and well-thought-out approach, from the left, from the right, straight on, anticlockwise, a few small steps and then one leap, or perhaps many long steps and then sort of gingerly oozing onto it so as not to wake up the monster waiting below. There may also be consideration as to how the scale is positioned à la north, south, east and west because of magnetic polarities. Anyway, as this all hit me, I realised the truly freeing thing about this facing-the-fear-of-the-bungeejump moment would also be to leap onto a scale, as a man would. I should do so suddenly, without warning, without preparation (I had not been dieting), and without a plan
baguette. All well and good, but during a rare recent vacation
bouches, edgy dark chocolate and locally sourced gourmet
(I had not yet made out a will in case I sustained a heart
at a fancy spa, my weight equanimity was challenged.
cocktails that, what with the Arizona-desert water retention,
attack upon seeing 153). Turns out I was indeed a circus-
This was supposed to be kind of a meditation retreat
I soon found myself feeling quite bloated. I observed to my
elephant-like 147 ½ pounds, and yet I was pretty jazzed
for foodies, augmented with healthy activities like yoga and
group that I was going to have to escape the spa and go
not to be 195, 185, 175 or even 165. Well, it was great, in
hiking.To be honest, though, while it wasn’t exactly a cruise,
home just to be able to fit into my trousers.
short, to Weigh Myself Like a Man. And I survived! Now,
three days in there had so many small tasting plates, amuse
My foodie friend Charlie jovially agreed, drained his
my pre-summer resolution? Back to black coffee.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 49
home
upward trend in the triple height entrance hall, a crucial trading runner softens the staircase. a mexican embroidered wall hanging from peter Johnson interiors echoes the runner’s orange stripe.
the owners of this three-storey modern house wanted a family home that reflected their eclectic taste. a successful partnership with a designer helped them create it PhotograPhs by
renato ghiazza
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 51
home
Left: A leather daybed from industry acts as casual extra seating while a brass lamp from tHE conran sHoP sits on an African drum. The joinery in the main living area was designed by Lyons and made by Andy Carter. Shelving accommodates both books and objects. Above: Storage beneath is as discreet as possible. The recesses between each bookcase tower are painted with Hague Blue by Farrow & Ball. The dining table is from minniE PEtErs and the dining chairs from The Conran Shop. Below: A green suede sofa from montana FurniturE rests on an ikEa rug and is piled with a mix of Missoni cushions from Bottom drawEr at Brown Thomas and antique kelim cushions from oriEntal rugs.
hen Grace Murray and Robert McGlynn decided to move into a house designed by architects de Blacam & Meagher they called on interior designer Eoin Lyons to help them decorate the three-storey building. The house is one of a pair originally built by McGlynn for rental, so the couple – he a stockbroker and she formerly in the newspaper business – wanted to turn it into a family home that would reflect their eclectic taste and be suitable for their young son. Having lived in London for many years, this was their first proper home in Dublin and they came to it with virtually no furniture. For both clients and designer, it was a wonderful opportunity to create something special. Lyons, until recently best known as a journalist and author, isn’t about the conventional concept of interior design. “What I do is more about putting together a collection of pieces that are different but work together. I don’t want someone to walk into a room and know immediately that I was involved.” It was this quality that attracted Murray to him after they met through mutual friend Sonia Reynolds. “Grace and I worked on the house in a collaborative way. I like to share what I’ve learned works best rather than dictate,” he says of the creative process. There were some practical matters to consider before choosing furniture. The deep, narrow, tall house had very little storage, a basic kitchen and two rather dark bathrooms. The main living space was without any defining feature so the storage issue was resolved in this area by the 52 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
home
addition of a cabinet running the length of the room, incorporating zigzag shelving, so that books and objects could be displayed, with discreet presses below. It’s a characterful piece that now gives the room focus. The bookcases are divided into towers with two recesses between for pictures and a wider one in the middle for a television. The kitchen was given a facelift in the form of a new stone countertop, some unit re-configuration and a paint job. The bathrooms were re-tiled in travertine from Antica and instantly became much brighter. The furniture combinations are a mix of high and low, old and new. “Not everything has to be expensive to create beautiful rooms. Grace and I used some very high-end pieces, such the oak dining table and leather daybed, but mixed these with inexpensive finds from Ikea and vintage shops. It’s about prioritising what’s worth spending money on and remembering that cheap can be chic too.” Thanks to this collaborative aspect of the project, Murray says: “I feel the house is truly my home and not just a designer look.” And that, for her designer, is the highest praise of all.
This page from top left: In the main bedroom, a chest of drawers from EnvironmEnt FurniturE against walls painted with Green Ground by Farrow & Ball; the main bedroom is rich in texture with a wrought iron lamp from HEdgEroE, custom-made suede headboard with fabric from titta JonEs; the bathrooms were brightened up with new marble tiling from antica; a nondescript guest cloakroom was lined with cork natural wall covering by PHilliP JEFFriEs – light is reflected from a crystal globe above a basin with storage, painted in Farrow & Ball’s Rectory Red; a vintage metal display cabinet from industry, Temple Bar, holds everyday china and glassware; the new stone countertop and fresh paint gave the kitchen a new lease of life.
address book CruCial Trading; www.crucial-trading.com. PeTer Johnson inTeriors (by appointment only), 60 Lombard Street West, Dublin 8, 01 453 7088; www. peterjohnsoninteriors.ie. indusTry, 5 Smock Alley, Cows Lane, Dublin 2, 01 613 9111; www.industrydesign.ie. The Conran shoP at Arnotts, Henry Street,
Dublin 1, 01 805 0400; www.arnotts.ie. Minnie PeTers, 12 Maple Avenue, Dublin 18, 01 293 3919; www.minniepeters.com. MonTana FurniTure, 11 Maple Avenue, Stillorgan Industrial Park, Co Dublin, 01 293 7000; www.montana.ie. ikea, St. Margaret’s Road, Ballymun, Dublin 11, 1890 987 938; www.ikea.com.
boTToM drawer at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2, 01 605 6696;
www.brownthomas.com. orienTal rugs, 104 Francis Street, Dublin 8, 01 453 1222; www.orientalrugs.ie. hedgeroe, Enniskerry Road, Kilternan, Dublin 18, 01 294 8932; www.hedgeroe.com. TiTTa Jones, 087 242 2633; email:
titta@lillysecoclean.com. anTiCa, Earlscourt Industrial estate, Beaumount Avenue, Churchtown, Dublin 14, 01 296 0136; www.antica.ie. PhilliP JeFFries; www.phillipjeffries.com Farrow & ball, 14 Cornmarket, Dublin 8, 01 677 0111; www.farrow-ball.com. eoin lyons; www.eoinlyons.com.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 53
This Glossy
Duvet Days
lifestyle
FANCY A BEDROOM makeover? Bedlinen makes a wonderful starting point for a whole new look. There are basically two types of cotton sheets (as a rule, steer clear of the poly-cotton blends): sateen (silky texture) and percale (crisp). Other things to know – Egyptian cotton comes only from the banks of the Nile. Thread count refers to the number of threads used per square inch, the highest number being best. The quality of a pure linen sheet – an ironing nightmare – is measured by its weight (per square metre) and it will soften with use. After extensive research, we’ve decided that the best sheets out there are Frette’s Hotel Collection percale cotton range – they’ll last a lifetime. If you prefer something floral, try Pip Studio (www.pipstudio.com), Cath Kidston and Anthropologie (above). Sin in Linen (www.sininlinen.com) and Snurk (meaning snore in Dutch; www.snurkbedding.com) both do cheeky, offbeat designs, and for quality at a knockdown price, head for TK Maxx – but stick to the designer labels. HOT (PRESS) TIP: Fold sheets, duvet cover and pillowcases and pack neatly inside one of the matching pillowcases; they’ll be easier to find as well as easy to store.
NATure iN A BAg
TopSy TURVy
A grown-up version of the ordinary growbag, check out these cool portable plant pots from Bacsac. These geotextile bags will transform any corner of your home, indoors or out, into a growing, living garden. From d65 for two; www.jardinchic.com.
the beauty of new design store DESIgnIST is that nothing has a price tag of over t100 – how refreshing! we love this ingenious Sky PlanTER that HangS uPSIDE DOwn. so, how does the soil stay in? a collar fits around the stem of the plant and connects to the planter body with small tabs, much like a teapot lid, as well as a plastic mesh that fits around the plant stem on top of the soil as added protection. kITcHEn HERbS THRIvE in these planters and you can even gROw yOuR Own vEgETablES. suitable for indoor and outdoor use, t68. Designist, 68 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2, 01 475 8534; www.designist.ie.
STyle for leSS Three of The Best: BeDSIDe laMpS
1
NEW
MAx BENjAMIN SIGNATURE GIFT SET
2
1. brooklyn lamp, d54, at HoUSE of fRaSER. 2. wee willy winky lamp, about d80, at LaURa aSHLEy. 3. Crystal lamp, d19.99, at TK Maxx.
3
The Perfect Present for Mothers Day Available for the first time in travel size, Max Benjamin’s four best selling signature scents in one gift box Lemongrass & Ginger, Dodici, French Linen Water, Mimosa & Sweet Amber.
inTeLLigenT DESIGN designer gearÓid muldowney of superfolk
W
IRISH OWNED Made with 100% natural wax Brown Thomas, Dublin, Cork, Limerick | House of Fraser Dundrum Meadows & Byrne | Kilkenny | Carraig Donn | Avoca www.maxbenjamin.ie
hen we came across Superfolk’s line of contemporary Irish furniture and home accessories last year, we were more than impressed. The Dublin-based design studio, founded by Gearóid Muldowney (right), pushes boundaries and pays homage to traditional Irish design, landscapes and traditions, but in a playful way. The final result is a cross between craft and design – the handmade wallpaper, for example, is inspired by old technical drawings of a Boyne currach. Believing that the table is at the heart of any Irish kitchen, Superfolk’s interpretation is a large, tough, work bench raised up on four simple legs – just big enough for a family dinner, yet small enough to be used as a desk. The studio focuses on working with locally sourced materials like wool, wood and leather, and employs artists with specific talents when needed – the willow pendant shade (above) was made in collaboration with Connemara-based basket-maker Joe Hogan. www.superfolk.com
food
Add to Basket
The sun is shining, the great outdoors beckons – time to dust off the picnic basket for a new season of alfresco dining. Clodagh McKenna shops for the perfect spread
I
love picnics … the decadent sort, with a huge wicker basket filled with china, a teapot, flasks of hot water for the leaf tea, delicious tarts, Donegal rugs, linen napkins. To my mind, life’s simple things can be made into the most wonderful experiences with a little effort. So last weekend I decided it was time to clean out the hamper and declare picnicking season open! The week before, I had been inspired by a visit to the killaloe farmers market in Co Clare – it runs every Sunday morning from 10am to 3pm, and is definitely worth a detour if you’re in the area. There are about 20 stalls (90 per cent of them local) selling locally grown organic vegetables (from a man named Jim – this stall is a must stop and buy), fresh fish, free-range meats, freshly baked breads and cakes. I picked up lots of organic carrots, spring onions and white cabbage, so I decided to make a crisp and creamy homemade spring coleslaw for the picnic, to go with my Quiche Lorraine (a recipe inspired after a trip to the wonderful café de flore in Paris). For the coleslaw, thinly slice half a head of white cabbage, 2 spring onions; grate 2 carrots and toss in a large bowl with 4 tbsps of plain yogurt, 4 tbsps of mayonnaise, 1 tbsp of lemon juice, 1 tsp Dijon mustard, and season with salt and pepper. I also bought some lemons and limes for my lemon and lime cordial (below). Try it – it’s so refreshing, a perfect picnic drink. : List Your Picnic to s tra Then the day before the picnic, I stopped by listons food store on ex e s som Rug to sit on (plu ) ld Camden Street in Dublin – I love this area of town. Listons is a fabulous food shop if it gets co throw over you that stocks everything from salads and cheeses to dried goods like rice and pasta, a) te er (for Flask of hot wat and also freshly baked breads. I bought some Green & Black’s chocolate for my ses, cutlery Cups, plates, glas Chocolate and Almond Tart, a packet of streaky smoked Gubbeen bacon and (in jam jars) r ga su d an ilk Gruyère cheese for the quiche, and some organic eggs. M board So on Sunday morning, we packed up the car and set off for brittas bay Sharp knife and with our basket of goodies (although picnics don’t have to happen on a beach – Cool box els beside a lake or river, city parks, a wooded area … wherever you like). There’s just w to Napkins and tea something so special about a homemade picnic on a sunny afternoon … Bottled water y! or em m ure the A camera to capt
ingredients (serves 6-8) For the pastry 175g plain flour, plus extra for dusting pinch of salt 75g butter, plus extra for greasing 1 egg For the Filling 150g gruyère cheese, grated 4 tomatoes, sliced (optional) 200g smoked bacon lardons 5 eggs, beaten 100ml milk
56 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
Method: 1. place the chocolate and butter in a bowl over a pan of gently simmering water. leave until melted and smooth, stirring every few minutes. 2. in a separate bowl, place the egg yolks and caster sugar and whisk until thick and creamy. Fold in the cooled chocolate mixture, then fold in the flour followed by the ground almonds and mix well. 3. in another bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. gently
ChoColate and alMond tart ingredients (serves 10) 150g good-quality dark chocolate (at least 70 per cent cocoa solids) broken into pieces 150g butter 4 eggs, separated 90g caster sugar 80g self-raising flour 150g ground almonds For the ChoColate iCing 150g good-quality dark chocolate (at least 70 per cent cocoa solids) broken into pieces 150g butter, unsalted flaked almonds, for sprinkling
fold into the chocolate mixture until completely combined. pour the mixture into a lined 10-inch springform cake tin and bake in a pre-heated oven at 170˚C/340˚F/gas mark 3-4 for 45-50 minutes or until just firm to the touch. remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tin. 4. to make the chocolate icing, place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water and whisk in the butter until melted. then remove the bowl from the heat and whisk every few minutes while it is cooling. 5. once the cake has cooled, ice the cake with the chocolate mixture, and spinkle some flaked almonds on top.
FooD photog raphy By alBerto peroli
Café de flore’s QuiChe lorraine
Method 1. to make the pastry, sift the flour together with a pinch of salt in a large bowl. rub in the butter until you have a soft breadcrumb texture. add enough cold water to make the crumb mixture come together to form a firm dough, and then rest it in the fridge for 30 minutes. roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface and line a 22cm well-buttered flan dish. Don’t cut off the edges of the pastry yet. Chill again. 2. remove the pastry case from the fridge and line the base of the pastry with baking parchment and then fill it with baking beans. place on a baking tray and bake blind for 20 minutes in a pre-heated oven at 190˚C/375˚F/ gas mark 5. remove the beans and parchment and return to the oven for another five minutes. 3. reduce the oven temperature to 160˚C/320˚F/gas mark 3. 4. sprinkle the cheese into the pastry base and fry the bacon pieces until crisp and sprinkle over them over the top.
Combine the eggs with the milk and cream in a bowl and season well. pour over the bacon and cheese. sprinkle the thyme over the top and trim the edges. 5. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until set. remove from the oven and allow to cool and set further. 6. trim the pastry edges to get a perfect edge and serve. (this can be made up to three days in advance of your picnic and stored in the fridge.)
main photograph By joanne mU rph y.
200ml cream sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 sprigs of fresh thyme
this is a deliciously refreshing leMon and liMe Cordial. place 1 tbsp grated lemon rind, 2 tsp grated lime rind, 200ml lemon juice, 200ml lime juice, 265g caster sugar, and 600ml of boiling water into a saucepan. stir until sugar has dissolved. allow to cool, then pour into a sterilised bottle. to serve: Use 1/3 cordial to 2/3 cup chilled sparkling water or prosecco. serve with thinly sliced lemon and lime and a sprig of mint.
wine
THE LAST SPLASH &
at
The Westbury Hotel
Literary Supper Club Literary Supper with Justine Picardie on weDnesDay june 1 BOOK NOW FOR OUR
A supper club with a unique flavour
OUr phiLOSOphy FOr SpriNG? BUy LESS, BUT SpEND A LiTTLE MOrE, ON SOMEThiNG yOU rEALLy LOvE. iT WOrkS FOr WiNE TOO, SAyS mary Dowey
T
he wardrobe has been savagely pruned, the bathroom cabinet purged and every chipped plate ditched in the most radical spring clean our home has ever seen. A slim volume is to thank for this therapeutic clear-out. In an effort to improve my French, I’ve been reading L’Art de la Simplicité by Dominique Loreau, a Frenchwoman who has lived in
Japan long enough to follow the ‘less is more’ principle like a religion. What I love about this book is that its message extends beyond the process of de-
cluttering – even beyond the need to combat that magpie instinct which makes us
a wonDerFul evening out For you anD your guests –
all acquire too much stuff. Rather than preach a grim gospel of asceticism, Loreau
gooD FooD, gooD literature, gooD ComPany
stresses the importance of incorporating beauty into everyday life – so luxury goods are encouraged in occasional, measured doses. Why not have one fabulous sofa instead of a roomful of unremarkable furniture? One ravishing handbag instead of half a dozen that look dull? Buy the minimum, Madame Loreau advocates – but when you do make a purchase, splash out on the very best that is within your means. If it’s something practical – a car, say, or a coat – it should look good, feel good and last for years. If it’s food or drink … well, most of us consume too much of both without bothering enough about quality. We’d be better off settling for smaller quantities of top-notch produce – doing our bodies a favour and enjoying exquisite, lingering flavours. So you see where this is leading. As spring is the only time of year when I make
“To get into the best society nowadays, one has either to feed people, amuse people, or shock people.” osCar wilDe
an effort to drink less, I’ve been on the lookout for wines in the Occasional Treats category – bottles which deliver pure pleasure. If they cost a shade more than a supermarket purchase for a typical midweek evening in a country going down the tubes … well, I think they will be worth it. And Easter, good reason for a special lunch
Dublin’s proud literary tradition is about to be CelebrateD in style this
or dinner, isn’t far away.
year with the launch of a series of Literary Suppers to be held at The Westbury
Is it by accident or design that my recommendations are all French classics? I’m not
Hotel, The Doyle Collection’s flagship hotel, located in the city’s cultural heart.
sure. Maybe too much time has recently been spent trying to work out whether, after
All lovers of fine wine and fantastic food are welcome to attend these relaxed
the monster clear-out, the pretext now exists to buy a Chloé dress, Agnès B sneakers
and social events.
and Chanel eye cream! These wines are their liquid equivalents, you might say.
Our first Literary Supper takes place in wilDe – the restaurant at
Finally, speaking of French wine, book now for the Domaine Leflaive tasting dinner
The Westbury Hotel on Wednesday June 1, at 7.30pm with author justine
at Ballymaloe House, Co Cork on Saturday June 11, to enjoy white Burgundy of the
PiCarDie, author of the recently published Coco Chanel, A Life; If the Spirit
highest pedigree. Anne-Claude Leflaive, one of the greatest white winemakers
Moves You, and Daphne.
in the world, will bring bottles from her cellar in Puligny-Montrachet for this
For ¤55, guests will enjoy a superb two-course dinner, accompanied by
extra-special evening. For information and booking, www.ballymaloe.ie.
wine, in the company of justine PiCarDie in the elegant comfort of Wilde – The Restaurant. The evening begins at 7.30pm with a glass oF ProseCCo anD a reaDing before a seasonal dinner at 8pm, featuring DeliCious Dishes from Wilde’s executive chef and his team. As with all THE GLoSS
events, we expect tickets to sell out quickly. l
two-course dinner with coffee and chocolates, accompanied by wine
l
reading by author Justine Picardie
l
the perfect present for any food and literature lover
l
book tables for two or more
TiCkETS AT ¤55 EACh iNCLUDE A TWO-COUrSE DiNNEr AND WiNE. FOr ENQUiriES AND TiCkETS, CALL ThE LiTErAry SUppEr hOTLiNE ON 01 275 5130
quality, not quantity Chablis le Finage, la Chablisienne 2009. At last, an attractive and authentic Chablis at a reasonable price. This zesty number won a Gold Star award in the National Off-Licence Association’s 2010-11 wine competition – deservedly. From NOffLA off-licences nationwide, d13.99-14.99. Domaine mabileau st niColas De bourgueil les roullières 2009. Loire reds make perfect spring-into-summer wines – especially when they are as juicily exuberant as this one. From Listons, Camden Street, Dublin 2; 64 Wines, Glasthule; Macs, Limerick; Ardkeen, Waterford; O’Donovans, Cork, about d16.95. eCho De lynCh-bages PauillaC 2008. The second wine of Château Lynch-Bages, newly baptised Echo, is a beauty with plummy flavours and a cashmere texture. Unlike its big brother, it’s ready for drinking now and the price is justified. Arriving into leading wine shops nationwide, about d35.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 57
entertaining
The Pleasures of Provence
Cake stand, t35, Marks & Spencer. Willie’s Chocolate Bible (Hodder & Stoughton, £25stg)
I
p HOTO gR A p HS bY S IO bH AN bY R NE
Book now for the first of our 2011 wine dinners on Wednesday April 13
siX-coUrse dinner accoMpanied By siX Wines
Wines presenTed By The Gloss Wine ediTor Mary doWey
a WonderFUl eveninG oUT For yoU and yoUr GUesTs
an inspired GiFT or a sMarT Way To enTerTain BUsiness associaTes
n a small but perfectly formed artisan cottage in Dublin’s docklands, Kate Broderick is getting ready for her dinner guests. Tonight they will be four, often it’s eight. The table is set with crisp linen, blue and white floral plates from Paris, vintage cutlery on “permanent loan” from her parents, Riedel glasses and a beautiful antique wine coaster that was a gift from her future mother-in-law, Mo Saul. The house is coming down with flowers – hyacinths
and avalanche roses and white lilac and peach gerbera – all from Mark Grehan of The Garden, who, Kate says, “manages to make it all look as if it’s not from a florist”. It doesn’t appear to take a feather out of her, although the churlish might observe that her job as marketing manager of handmade chocolatier cocoa atelier, which falls under the La Rousse food umbrella, and that of her fiancé, Marcus Saul (son of restaurateur Roly) with o’Brien’s Wines, give the couple an unfair advantage. “Marcus cooks more than I do, so he looks after the food while I take care of front of house,” says Kate. In the winter he does roasts and pies, but in the summer it’s barbecue central in the pocket-handkerchief garden designed by Chelsea gold medal-winner Mary Reynolds. The couple buy their meat from John doyle on Pearse Street – “it’s always
tender and great value, and on Saturday mornings there’s a great buzz”, veggies from roy Fox in Donnybrook, cheese from sheridans and everything else from Fallon & Byrne. “We’re lucky,” says Kate, “to be able to live from day to day and avoid the supermarkets.” Today, though, it’s a girls’ night and Kate is cooking. She’s serving a
What better way to launch our programme of dinners for 2011 – the fifth year of The Gloss & The Merrion Wine socieTy – than by setting the scene for summer with an escape To dreaMy provence? All lovers of fine wine and fantastic food are welcome to attend. We promise a gourmet evening which is guaranteed to put you in the mood for brighter days ahead. Our next wine dinner, The pleasUres oF provence, takes place in the Cellar Restaurant of Dublin’s Merrion Hotel, on Wednesday April 13. Mary doWey, Wine Editor of The Gloss, has a special interest in Provence (and a super website to prove it: www.provencefoodandwine.com). She will present a fantastic line-up of wines from the stylish Southern Rhône and further south. These will be matched with delicious dishes from The Merrion’s executive chef Ed Cooney and his team, reflecting the fresh, vibrant flavours that make modern For a90, guests will enjoy a superb six-course dinner accompanied by six different wines, each chosen and introduced by Mary doWey. As usual, we expect tickets to sell out quickly. The evening begins at 7.30pm. Come and travel with us to the sun-drenched south of France on this glorious gastronomic tour. l l
simple Caprese salad served with the basil-infused olive oil from vom Fass (her latest
l
food crush), risotto with pea and asparagus and an assiette gourmande comprised of
l
dark chocolate-coated candied orange, mango macaroons and dark chocolate truffles,
l
six-course dinner accompanied by six wines wines presented by THE GLOSS Wine Editor Mary Dowey wines can be ordered by the case at very attractive prices gift vouchers available – the perfect present for any wine lover call 01 275 5130 for queries and booking
all from Cocoa Atelier. The talk will be of Kate and Marcus’ upcoming wedding and the splendid macaroon tower that they are planning in place of a cake, and each of her lucky guests will take home a little parcel of mixed chocolate eggs to get them in the mood for Easter. Katy Mc Guinness
58 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
TICKETS AT t90 INCLUDE A SIX-COURSE DINNER AND SIX WINES. FOR ENQUIRIES AND TICKETS, CALL THE WINE SOCIETY HOTLINE ON 01 275 5130
travel
maN in a SUitCaSe City breaks and business travel are all very well, but The Holiday should be something quite different – an unabashedly languid affair with no other agenda than relaxation. Start planning now, says tim magee
A
s the weather warms, the weather button on my iPhone is warming with it. It had a lonely winter but it’s a busy button now and has stopped being a practical resource and become a teaser campaign for where to escape for the summer holiday. The summer holiday is a very particular thing. For me it isn’t about exploring cities, museums, or shops, nor am I into an annual pilgrimages to yet more routines: a holiday home does not necessarily a holiday make. The holiday needs to be the opposite of home, without a routine or to-do list in sight. I live more in hotels than in my house in real life, so for one week a year my idea of travel usually involves renting. If it has to be a hotel it needs to be an ex-pat and lanyard free zone, older than me, with its pool beside the sea. Marble, parquet and sand are the only surfaces I want to be walking on, with foreign scents, tastes and languages covering the other senses. For someone who is obsessed with all things travel, the truth is that I’m happily shallow when it comes to the holiday. Puddle deep. Stomping around ruins, shops and museums is for other trips. It’s nice to be near nice things but for one week each year I prefer to view them from a dinner table. I’ve never understood the question “what did you get up to while you were away?” I usually reply with a thousand-yard stare and that I wasn’t away, I was on holidays. That it was perfect. People should be able to see it in your face when you’ve had a holiday – if you’re only being asked if you’ve been away, you obviously haven’t comprehensively holidayed. I am almost competitive about my working travel but when it comes to the big holiday it all goes out the window. I am not the guy who says, “I hate the heat” or that I can’t just lie there all day. Leave me on a comfortable sunlounger in the mid-thirties, with a disintegrating book, a boat drink and a smile and I’m doing what I planned. The competition on that week is between the view, my book and the drink in my hand – with me always being the winner. Inside my holiday head for that week is a foggy montage of high-brow issues: how is it possible to have boiled eggs and buttered asparagus solders every morning for an entire week and love them this much? Why are all the best thrillers set in World War Two? I think I will have white wine tonight. I hate plastic cups. Holiday thoughts. I have a single goal on a proper summer holiday, which is to achieve that perfect moment of gorgeous cosseted confusion when you are half awake, half toasted – internally and externally – in evening beach heat with the taste of Albariño and paperback in your mouth and sea salt on your lips, and the soundtrack of gentle clacking from the sun-lounger man putting away his wares for the day.
THE KNOWLEDGE:
Croatia
I assocIate places wIth colour: Paris is a Farrow & Ball grey, Seville a hazy orange. Croatia is blue. l’m speeding across that exact Adriatic blue from Villa Bili, on Boat Bili with Bili, who’s cutting through the glass-stIll water with two massive Hondas and a golden smile. The President might have a summer home here but Bili is the King of Komarna, the tIny watersIde vIllage that has been the beating heart of my Croatian trips for the last two Septembers. Bili is bringing me for shellfish, which means that he is whisking me across the strait to a huge polished table in the shade beside a falling-down but gorgeous Venetian stone house in an oyster farm that’s been there forever. He barks, “two and 24 with wine” to a small smiling women. She nods at a chap who strolls over to one of the planks cum jetties on the oyster farm that spreads out like a watersIde web from the hut. This part of the Dalmatian coast is actually just one bIg blue farm. The man dips his arm into the beds and deftly gathers our live mussels and oysters. They cook mussels in breadcrumbs and a fresh tomato sauce in minutes and serve them with sides of straight up oyster. I’m blinking and grinning at the sun, which I’m pretty sure is coming directly from Bili himself. If you stay in the city, choose your accommodation wisely. Although Dubrovnik is stunning, it is touristy – Venice touristy – and, unless your idea of relaxation is to mill around a city sandwiched between Irish and British wedding parties and cruise tours, it’s not worth staying in for more than a few hours at a time. Gazing back at Dubrovnik from one of the peaceful clIff-dwellIng fIve-star suntraps just outside the city, like Hotel Villa Dubrovnik (above) is much better and perfect for Croatian first-timers.
vIew from a table: Hix at Selfridges there Is no recessIon on view from the table at Hix Restaurant and Champagne Bar overlooking the rear entrance to the Selfridges flagship store on Oxford Street. Money walks in and labels walk out. Like Rowley Leigh and our own Paul Flynn, Mark Hix is the kind, cosy but cool cook whose palate and knowledge puts you at ease the moment you look at the menu because there’s something for everyone. Hix at Selfridges is no different. Chips with curry sauce? Or if you’re there as a real treat – this is dynamite – jellied Maldon rock oyster with cucumber and sustainable Mottra sterlet caviar and their excellent house champagne. The fizzy and caviar is thirty five quid, the curry chip three. Mr Hix knows us better than we know ourselves.
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 59
this glossy life no sleep till brooklyn Things have come full circle for designer Helen James. After working in New York at DKNY in the 1990s, she returned home in 2002 to launch her own fashion label, selling silks, belts and bags, from a studio in her Co Meath home. The label is now shuttered and she has returned to New York to work for Donna Karan once again, this time as Design Director of the company’s bed-linen division. James loves being part of a team rather than working in isolation, however splendid. “Being around other creative people drives the process for me. And it’s great that I am not chasing billing, sweeping the floor, making the tea and doing the accounts – all the aspects of running your own business that are so exhausting and take you away from design.” In New York, though, she is not designing for herself. “I work for a brand and I constantly have that in the forefront of my mind. There are many more people involved. I may like something but ‘Is it Donna Karan?’ is a question I have to keep asking myself.” James works closely with the house’s fashion design team. “There is lots of cross-over between fashion and home collections. I work with the Donna Karan team to ensure that the home designs reflect the season’s fashion handwriting.” Coming to New York this time around involved one major difference – James had to move her family. She admits it’s been an adjustment for the three kids – Obi, aged eleven; Luan, nine; and Cy, nearly two. She and her husband, musician Mark Geary, met in New York and had been talking about moving back for years. The clock was ticking, she says: “We knew Obi wouldn’t want to move once he hit his teens, but we’d no idea how we were going to do it.” So last April she left Geary and the kids behind to go to New York to forge a new life for them. With a job secured, she then spent every free minute apartment hunting, researching schools and within a month had found an apartment. “I went home and packed up the house in three weeks, came back in April and by July the whole family was here.” They live in the Carroll Street area of Brooklyn, which is not “painfully hip like Williamsburg but cool, in a low-fi way, and Obi’s school is only a couple of blocks from the apartment.” She loves the cultural smorgasbord that is life in the Big Apple. “Even though we don’t actually get to as many exhibitions, gigs or plays as we’d like, it’s great to know they’re there on your doorstep.” Babysitting is a problem though. It costs $20 an hour. Brown Thomas, Dublin will stock a selection of James’s designs for Donna Karan. AlAnnA GAllAGher
60 | April 2011 | T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
This Glossy Life They say that if you can make it there, you’ll make it anywhere ... We meet three Irish success stories making their mark in New York
PhotograPhs by
leticia valdez
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 61
this glossy life
wall street operator “I have a phobia of staying in,” laughs Dubliner Jason o’Brien, who has lived and worked in New York for the best
part of 14 years. It’s probably just as well: as co-owner of three hugely successful Manhattan bars-cum-brasseries – Dublin 6 in the West Village, and Trinity Place and The Bailey just off Wall Street – there isn’t much time for domesticity. “There are very few days that I’m not in all three places; I’m very hands-on,” he says. Having earned his stripes at the legendary Smith & Wollensky steakhouse, O’Brien went out on his own aged just 23, although admits that at the time he “didn’t have a clue” what he was doing. He learned fast. Today, his establishments embody a new breed of Irish bar that is a world away from what he describes as traditional “diddly-idly” pubs – they’re smart and contemporary (the interiors are by Irish designer Brian McDonald, a friend), with a huge emphasis on fresh, seasonal food and good wines – although he’s still very proud of the standard of their pint of Guinness. Not that it’s all work and no play, or rather, work ends up being a lot of fun. “You become friends with some of the regulars,” he explains. “One lady who comes to Dublin 6 all the time invited us to her Thanksgiving party, and it was amazing. I was hanging out with all the guys from Mad Men, Sarah Jessica Parker, Matthew Broderick, John Legend ...” And that’s not to mention the Saturday Night Live crew, who are a semi-permanent fixture in Dublin 6, the team of script writers often comandeering the back room for impromptu writing sessions; Cameron Diaz also pops in every month or two. It all sounds like tremendous fun, but running a business in New York is no joke. “It’s definitely a tougher environment here,” says O’Brien. “You have to work hard at the system, but no matter what challenges you come up against, you make it happen. It’s an amazing city – it’s electric.” ch
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this glossy life
don the draper Don o’neill, the man behind new luxe label Theia, originally hails from Ballyheigue in Co Kerry. His designs, beloved of A-listers, come with built-in corsetry that makes
a woman feel like a goddess. The golden red carpet rule is that you feel secure in your dress, O’Neill explains – confidence is key to radiating glamour. “If you’re confident people automatically perceive you to be more put-together. My dresses are just the foundation garment in creating that overall allure.” And Hollywood’s new generation is bedazzled. Taylor Swift has packed “a load of his dresses into a suitcase” for her current world tour and at this year’s Oscars, celebrity stylist Jessica Paster shortlisted one of his designs for Annette Bening. On the night she went with Naeem Khan instead – red carpet dressing really is a bloodsport, he admits, but his “bruised ego” is healing and there’s always next year. O’Neill had already gained experience in two of the world’s fashion capitals when he came to New York, having worked for 1960s couture legend Gina Fratini in London, then studying under Christian Lacroix in Paris, fine-tuning his couture nous with a label then at the top of its game. In fact, he got his first job with occasion-wear designer Carmen Marc Valvo, not because of his talent, he says, but because the designer was a huge fan of the television series Absolutely Fabulous, and “the whole show revolved around Lacroix”. O’Neill agrees that to succeed in New York you need to be super hard-working; “People make it for many reasons; talent or the fact that you have access to money are just two of those ways. All I know is hard work.” His big break came when he was head-hunted to set up Badgley Mischka’s readyto-wear Platimum label. “It was an amazing opportunity, a quantum leap that gave me the experience and confidence to finally go out on my own. All the time there I thought I’d be found out.” Anna Wintour was an ardent supporter of the label and a front-row fixture at its shows, he dressed Nicole Kidman and one of his dresses made it on the cover of WWD. Since setting up Theia on his own two and a half years ago – the same designer, the same talent – he says that “getting these people to see me remains challenging” – although his star is definitely on the rise. The label’s name is inspired by the Greek goddess of light, who endowed gold, silver and gems with their brilliance – fitting for a glimmer man who grew up on a clifftop where the setting sun would reflect on the Atlantic below. “When I was young I wanted to make a dress from that sparkling ocean,” he muses. “I love sparkle.” Theia is stocked exclusively at Costume, Castle Market, Dublin 2. Ag
T h e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e | April 2011 | 63
over and out
C
wait to see “who’s in / who’s out” at the new political
onnie is basking in the limelight,
court and more critically, of course, she must keep
as her St Patrick’s Day trip to
incriminating tabs on her FAMA clients’ spending
Washington DC was a triumph
habits in many diverse and challenging places, from
– she absolutely charmed the
race meets to balls abroad.
politicos Stateside. She practically
She is thrilled to have been asked to judge the Best
singlehandedly reinvented Ireland’s
Dressed Lady at Punchestown next month and looks
image abroad as a country wreathed in humility and
forward to implementing her stringent criteria at this
as a result has thrown up a wonderful smokescreen
event. It is a particular bugbear of hers that certain
for the government as they tentatively place hairy
‘ladies’ appear at National Hunt meetings looking like
toes in the murky waters of National Debt default.
they are about to do business near the canal! There will
While she has not yet been invited onto any actual
be no tap on the shoulder for any gal tottering in her high
Dáil committees, she feels terrifically close to all the
heels, sporting bare legs or, worse, fake tan. The mere
new shenanigans and is perfectly happy to flit and flirt
suggestion of faux nails, hair extensions or tranny-style
lifestyle’ subcommittee but in the meantime she needs to pay more attention to her own affairs. She must figure out a way to bring her new powers to bear on FAMA, her Fee Accrual Management Agency. While the company is drowning in business it is proving terribly difficult to actually wrestle any hard dosh from the school fee defaulters. Her business partner and ex-banker
make-up will automatically result in disqualification. Then
A VIEW FROM THE JEEP
manifesto will be best protected by lobbying for a ‘nicer
there are the clothes! Frankly she feels weak at the thought of the lurid, synthetic nightdresses that these gals pass off as daywear, but what really kills her is the appalling cheapness of it all – the tawdry, shiny, poorly cut, offensively bright and
Connie’s first taste of politics has whetted her appetite for power. SoCoDu beware, warns Honora Quinn
wholly inappropriate rags! And if she sees another winner with half a sewing box masquerading as the ubiquitous fascinator on her head, she will throw up! She will stamp out all this homemade nonsense, insist on bleach baths for
Cyril is going ballistic, he simply cannot fathom how the
in sending out not-so-veiled threats on headed school paper,
the tangoed, and impose tartan blankets on the skimpily
defaulters are not parting with a red cent to neither the
which suggest that lack of payment will result in distinct
clad or bingo-winged. It will signal a return to tweeds by
schools nor FAMA and yet are still driving around in jeeps,
absence of educational facilities for little darlings. Cyril will
Chanel or indeed any other proper designer. Strictly.
taking fabby holidays, and partying like lords.
have to push his high interest bank loans somewhat more
And while she’s at it, she will ask Dame Enda for the
aggressively, as unless they get the fee market moving again
contract to advise his Fine Gals on personal grooming
the schools of SoCoDu will be empty come September.
and suitable attire – she particularly fancies this green
However, Connie is using her new contacts to learn a little more about the legal muscle of FAMA’s older sister. Indeed she has cloned one of its progenitor’s wonderfully
In the meantime Connie will be keeping a beady eye
clever ideas and is using the schools as her collection agent
on the goings on at various events of the Season. She can’t
field site to build Dáil women in her own image. A herd of Conniettes, how fabulous!
gok wan is television’s makeover king. Growing up on a council estate in Leicester, he struggled with obesity and
homophobia and briefly trained as an actor before embarking on a career in fashion. He now hosts some of Channel 4’s most popular shows, including How To Look Good Naked, and has designed a new range of glasses for Specsavers.
He Does
Have a natural affinity with women. “I come from quite
He Doesn’t
a heavily matriarchal family, and my older sister was
helps women confront: “I have the same hang-ups
Feel immune to the pressures of looking good that he
a huge influence on me” l admit to spending a lot of
as everyone else” l have happy memories of his
money on clothes. “Including accessories? Bags? …
brief stint at drama school: “It was awful. I was
A lot, and I’m not going to make any secret of it” l
literally surrounded by double-barrelled names
love 1950s fashion because “the clothes were beautiful,
and Porsches … and I was in a bedsit, trying to
they were uber-feminine and empowered women” l find
get a job in a takeaway” l remember coming out
that fame has made him self-conscious. “When the
to his parents: “I’ve blocked that one out. It’s weird,
show first came out I didn’t leave the house for seven
isn’t it? I’m still dealing with my sexuality, I think”
days; I had a real breakdown about being exposed” l
l
“have huge expectations of relationships. Maybe that’s
“It’s a really big commitment. Women should learn
why I’m single” l self-deprecate. “I’m thick actually, but
to love themselves first” l tear people down. “I don’t
it doesn’t bother me. I think I’m really clever” l own over
turn around to someone who is a size 18 and say, ‘Go on,
140 pairs of glasses l take his mission on How To Look Good
get into those skinny jeans,’ then walk away sniggering”
Naked seriously: “It sounds cheesy but it’s about helping
l take
others and inspiring them” l have a favourite part of the female body: “I absolutely love hooters. I love getting my hands on them!” l notice
that “guys like women with a bit of flesh”.
64 | April 2011 | T H e G l o s s M A G A Z I N e
think cosmetic surgery should be taken lightly.
his fame for granted – “I’m just little old Gok
from Leicester. I think, ‘Bloody hell what have I done?’” l This month: gok wan
underestimate the power of a new wardrobe. “Clothes allowed me to be a better lover, better friend, better son, better person.”
I l lu st r at Io n by n atal I e C ass Idy
in the peripheral circles of Merrion Street. Her SOUTH
Available from leading jewellers nationwide For stockists call +353 1 417 4077